01 cover.qxd
U.S. $5
5/22/09
3:57 PM
Canada $6 0 5>
0
74470 94059
3
Page 1
02 Yakima VCB ad
5/29/09
4:06 PM
Page 2
03 TCVCB ad
5/29/09
3:56 PM
Page 3
04 contents.qxd
5/31/09
2:05 PM
Page 4
WINE PRESS
Vol. 12, No. 2
N O R T H W E S T
FEATURES
30 Columbia River Gorge Wine touring along the Lower Columbia River Gorge holds surprises around every bend.
44 Heymann Whinery The fruit wines at this Centralia, Wash., winery are nothing to whine about.
52 Rosés The perfect summer sippers are evaluated by our judges.
62 Gluten-free pairing Two Northwest chefs pair their gluten-free seafood dishes with Abacela’s Albariño.
Summer 2009 DEPARTMENTS 8 Wine Nose Washington’s date with destiny
10 A Distant Perspective Wine writing, blogs and warts
12 Market Grapevine Summer’s brimming bounty
14 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Oregon’s Spanish influence
16 Urban Sips Ex-Germans and German exes
18 21 22 29
10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Destinations A weekend around Kelowna, B.C.
COVER STORY On the cover: Maryhill Winery’s vineyards, Sam Hill’s Stonehenge replica monument to World War I veterans and Mount Hood are just some of the sights along the Columbia River Gorge. This page: One of the travel stops along the Lower Columbia River Gorge is the Bonnewville Hot Springs Resort & Spa, where one can take a relaxing soak in its natural hot springs mineral water. Story begins on Page 30 . Photos by Jackie Johnston
78 Recent Releases 98 Vintage Musings Vintage Walla Walla
05 Masthead
5/29/09
4:01 PM
Page 5
WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T
Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Jarrod Boyle, Jessica Munnell, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Dave Seaver, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Wade Wolfe, Thomas Henick-Kling, H. Parks Redwine II, David Volmut, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Leah Jorgensen, Jackie Johnston Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Shelley Ransier, 509-582-1570 E-mail: sransier@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2009 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
5
06 What's online
5/30/09
12:40 PM
W H AT ’ S O N L I N E
Page 6
winepressnw.com
We’re on
NORTHWEST WINECAST
“
VOICES
”
from The Wine Knows forum community.winepressnw.com I have certainly watched my spending on wine purchases. We have 2 trips planned in the near future: Willamette Valley and Red Mtn. Usually on these trips I would buy a fair amount of wine. This trip I will probalby buy 4-6 bottles at places am familiar with, where in the past it would be 6-12. I will probably only buy from where I have bought before unless something really WOWs me. — mrstarbuck (April 19) I just read that article via the WPNW Facebook page and link! Ya just gotta love the Girl Next Door “Roll In The Hay” Chardonnay name! I might buy a bottle (if I can find it) just because I like the label. — timinspokane (April 24)
Each Tuesday, catch the Northwest Winecast, an online video show. Recent episodes have gone to Vancouver, B.C.; Prosser, Wash.; Seattle; Red Mountain, Wash.; Okanagan Falls, B.C.; George, Wash.; and Caldwell, Idaho.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Wine Club
Two Bottles of select
Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our
“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.
503-620-6691 800-288-3008
www.pnwc.com 6
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
07 Esquin ad
5/29/09
4:03 PM
Page 7
08 Wine Nose
6/1/09
COLUMN
12:44 PM
Page 8
the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE
Washington’s date with destiny
A
pril 2 passed this year with no fanfare. Few in the Washington wine industry paid attention to the date, other than to wonder how cool spring would be and how soon grapevines would awaken from their winter slumber. Yet, it was the 40th anniversary of a monumental change. April 2, 1969, marked the first day of the modern Washington wine industry. That was when Gov. Dan Evans signed into law House Bill 100, commonly known as the California Wine Bill. Perhaps the only person in the state of Washington to remember the importance of that day was Ron Irvine, owner of Vashon Winery and author of The Wine Project, the most important book ever written on Washington wine. Prior to April 2, 1969, Washington winemakers enjoyed unparalleled protection from the growing California wine industry in the form of tariffs that made selling wine here difficult. After the California Wine Bill passed, Washington was forced to compete with California on a level playing field. At first, the California Wine Bill was devastating to Washington wineries, but today we can thank those who made it happen. Dating back to the repeal of Prohibition in the mid-1930s, Washington (like California) primarily made sweet, fortified wines sold in taverns. These were favored by the unsophisticated palates of consumers during that period and continued to be made well into the 1960s. A few winemakers dabbled in high-quality European — or vinifera — wine grapes, including W.B. Bridgman, who grew Riesling and other varieties near Sunnyside. But most of these grapes were blended into wines often made with Concords or other non-vinifera varieties. It wasn’t until the early 1960s that American Wine Growers — the winery that became Chateau Ste. Michelle — began to dabble in vinifera-based wines as tastes in dry, lighter table wines grew. In 1962, a group of home winemakers led by University of Washington professor Lloyd Woodburne created Associated Vintners, the first Washington winery to work exclusively with vinifera grapes. For years, the California wine industry saw great opportunities in the Pacific Northwest. According to Irvine’s book, Californians crushed the nascent Oregon wine industry in the mid-’50s when protective tariffs were removed. Back then, Californians didn’t think Washington had much of a future as a wine-producing state and hoped to flood the state with its emerging higher-quality table wines. California nearly won the battle in 1967, according to The Wine Project, but fell one vote short of getting a bill passed in the Washington Legislature. The California wine lobby used brute-force tactics, basically buying votes to try to open what it saw as an important market. Back then, the Legislature was in session every other year, so the Californians eyed 1969 as the next opportunity to strike. They decided to take a different approach, which they ultimately found successful after a bruising battle in committees and with a Washington wine 8
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
industry that very much realized it had to change but felt it needed more time to make it happen. Irvine’s meticulously researched and well-written 1997 book goes into great detail on the California Wine Bill and how it came to be, and it should be read by anyone who cares about Washington wine. One of the key moments of the battle, Irvine points out, was when Dr. Walter Clore of the Washington State University research station in Prosser testified before state lawmakers. Clore, known as the father of Washington wine, had been researching the viability of European wine grapes in Washington since 1937 and was convinced the state could compete with California wines in quality. He said as much that day in Olympia: “We have investigated the varieties of wines that are known around the world for their high quality in producing premium wines, such as Chardonnay, Semillon, White Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and others. Red wines would be Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Grenache and others,” Clore said, as quoted in The Wine Project. “Many of these grapes here are more productive in our climate than in California, particularly when compared to the fine areas of the Bay region around San Francisco,” he added. “We feel, if our research continues to prove this point, that we can compete very favorably in producing top table and varietal wines with any other region in the United States, and we can do it with California, and we can do it with other parts of the world.” Clore understood what few others could at that point: Washington had the potential to thrive if given the opportunity. However, as long as protective tariffs kept higher-quality California wines at bay, Washington winemakers would have few reasons to take on the challenge. When House Bill 100 passed and became law, the state was flooded with California wine and Washington residents began to have access to wines of greater quality at fair prices. As expected, many wineries went out of business, and it took a few years for the industry to recover. Yet it re-emerged in the 1970s. AV (which later became Columbia Winery) and Ste. Michelle led the way, and important vineyards were planted. Sagemoor Farms north of Pasco was planted in the early 1970s, as was Mercer Ranch Vineyards (now Champoux Vineyards) in the Horse Heaven Hills. Preston Wine Cellars and Hinzerling Winery opened in 1976, followed by Leonetti in 1977 and Quilceda Creek in 1978. There is little doubt Washington would have become an important wine-producing region without the California Wine Bill, but it would have done so kicking and screaming as it clung to its sweet, fortified past. The California Wine Bill forced the issue, and we can be thankful for it every time we raise a glass of Washington wine. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
09 Maryhill
5/29/09
4:06 PM
Page 9
10 Berger column
6/1/09
COLUMN
12:44 PM
Page 10
a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER
Wine writing, blogs and warts
I
write for a living, such as it is. In another line of work, I might now be long retired and living on an island so I can finish Ulysses or Long Day’s Journey into Night, and I’d have time to open a Grange for fun now and then instead of having to slog through trade tastings and teach classes. The fact that I still write for a living and do so as much as possible is testament to the fact that I am in love with what I do. And that is why I continue to reflect (cogently, I fervently hope) on the state of the art that is wine. As a writer, I read. It’s often the best way to get ideas. I also chat a lot with winemakers and winery owners, and I do a lot of thinking about stuff that will be important to the newsletter that my wife, Juliann, and I put out every week, the one called Vintage Experiences. I firmly believe you cannot have a weekly (or even annual) newsletter on wine without cogency and relevance and have any staying power. What I write is more than simply tasting notes, which, in and of themselves, can constitute the most self-aggrandizing sort of claptrap, relating more to the person doing the blathering than to what’s in the glass. Often, such notes are a vain attempt to inculcate less selfassured acolytes. No varietal relevance needed. No regional typicity acknowledged. No context involved. So my reading constitutes a basic sort of “research” into the demographics, sales, styles and terroirs of the beast that rules us and that seems to have a life of its own irrespective of sales trends, focus groups, advertisements and scientific studies. Wine, too many people forget, is a beverage. Far too many people lose sight of this as they attempt to justify the use of sites. I refer, of course, to the Internet, that pernicious troll that has robbed a plethora of people of their person-to-person contact and reduced the number of hours we spend sipping some sublime potable that has a date as one of its raisons d’etres. So what do I read on the Web? Not much. The fact is, it is very easy to write a weekly wine newsletter with five articles and more than a dozen tasting notes as long as the vast majority of what you write is in reflecting on issues of the day about which others are already commenting. Blogs, Web sites and such constitute a vast array of comment on wine these days. Hundreds of sites and blogs and postings sound as if it’s fodder for open discussions on all sorts of topics. The problem is that I am a journalist. I got a degree in the field, worked in it for the Associated Press (10 years) and for daily newspapers another 18. I have done my newsletter in a journalistic fashion for the last 14-plus. I have written about wine since 1976. Moreover, I have taken courses on winemaking (University of California-Davis) and the chemistry of wine and view this as 10
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
a profession, not some lark to toss off after a day arbitraging. And what I see on most of the wine blogs is entertaining; what I see on most sites constitutes sales pitches. It’s not that there is anything inimical about any of this. It’s actually rather harmless most of the time. But what it is usually is commentary that has not been researched or vetted, and often is so badly written and off-center that it fails the basic test of relevance. Reading about wine on the Internet can be fun notably when one of the more thoughtful bloggers makes a contentious statement that is either short-sighted or insightful. Then I am prompted to react. But I only do actually react when there is a serious and vital point to be made, and usually one missed by the original perpetrator. Once, a widely known blogger made an idiotic statement based on his opinion of something about which he had given probably little thought. The problem was he had not realized a side issue that made his original point pointless. Pointing that out to my readers was fun, since his idea sounded cogent until it was broken down syllogistically and found to be a non sequitur. So I do not read that blogger much anymore. I do like a few blogs. They can be captivating and fascinating since they come from intelligent people with the skill not only to write, but also to think. The top thinker in the world of wine is California wine writer Bob Thompson. He has no Internet presence, so that is out. But the delightful Brit Jancis Robinson does, and her charming chatter can be superb, though a few bobbles in the last year leave me wondering if Jancis isn’t spread a bit thin. Similarly, I find James Halliday of Australia to be as engaging as any writer on wine with a regular Internet presence. His Australian Companion is definitely worth a look. I also read Fermentation by Tom Wark, a California public relations professional who has as much inside-the-industry knowledge as anyone I read. One site few will find on their own is Arthur Przebinda’s www.redwinebuzz.com. I also read Dr. Vino (www.drvino.com) with enjoyment, and I get a charge out of Jeremy Oliver’s Australian wine site (www.jeremyoliver.com.au). And there are other sites I frequent infrequently. But most often when I’m reading a wine blog, it’s as a result of a suggestion from a reader or friend. But as a writer, I spend a lot more time putting my own thoughts down for my readers, after thorough research, and I leave the blogging to others. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
11 Idaho ad
5/29/09
4:08 PM
Page 11
12 Market Grapevine
COLUMN
6/1/09
12:44 PM
Page 12
market grapevine BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON
Summer’s brimming bounty Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.
A
fter one of the worst winters on record, followed by a dubious start to “spring,” Northwesterners are keeping fingers crossed that summer delivers warmth and sunshine along with our region’s (typical) bounty: fresh asparagus; heirloom tomatoes and peppers; plump cherries, berries and stone fruits; and succulent summer salmon. We begin our bounteous summer feast with Crispy Asparagus Straws, a recipe from the California Asparagus Commission. Begin by blanching 36 trimmed asparagus spears until barely tender. Rinse in iced water to stop the cooking, drain and pat dry. Place one sheet of thawed filo dough on a cutting board and brush with one tablespoon of melted butter. Cut the sheet into nine rectangles by making two cuts down from the top and two from the side. Sprinkle the cut sheet evenly with one ounce (approximately six tablespoons) of freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Place an asparagus spear on the bottom (narrow end) of each buttered rectangle with the tip sticking from the dough by about two inches. Roll up the spear and seal with additional melted butter. Using three more filo sheets, repeat the rolling process with the remaining asparagus spears. Arrange the spears on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush each spear lightly with melted butter, sprinkle with additional Parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper. Cover the tips with aluminum foil and bake at 425 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes, until crispy and browned. Serve the warm asparagus straws with Wood River Cellars 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($15) from Idaho’s Snake River Valley. It’s grassy and herbal, but not overly acidic. With a crisp midpalate, this wine will cut the saltiness of the cheese while complementing the earthy notes in the asparagus. Garden-Fresh Gazpacho, a recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) comes from Penny and Ken Durant, owners of Red Ridge Farms in Dayton, Ore. It’s made by pulsing three-quarters of a pound of heirloom tomatoes along with one large peeled and chopped cucumber; one small, coarsely chopped white or yellow onion; one coarsely chopped medium green bell pepper (seeds and membranes removed); one (four-ounce) jar drained pimientos; and half of one (11.5-ounce) can of tomato juice in a food processor until smooth. Pour into a large mixing bowl and repeat with the same amounts of vegetables and the remaining half can of tomato juice. Pour into a mixing bowl and stir together with another 11.5-ounce can of tomato juice, three tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, one-third cup of red wine vinegar, one-and-onehalf teaspoons kosher salt, one-quarter teaspoon Tabasco sauce and one-eighth teaspoon coarsely ground black pep12
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
per. Cover and refrigerate at least two hours and preferably overnight. Penny Durant suggests serving the soup (garnished with garlic croutons in well-chilled soup bowls) along with Durant Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay ($16) from Oregon’s Dundee Hills. With aromas and flavors of pineapple and citrus, the wine is crisp and refreshing, and plays off nicely with the acidity in the soup. Summer Salmon with Simple Soy Glaze comes from the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2007, $14.95). To make the glaze, in a small bowl whisk together one tablespoon each canola oil; regular or low-sodium soy sauce; honey, brown sugar or maple syrup; and Dijon mustard. Whisk in one-and-one-half teaspoons of prepared horseradish. Lightly oil a broiling pan with a rack. Arrange about two pounds of salmon fillets or steaks on the rack and brush lightly with the glaze. Broil three to four inches from the heat source for three minutes, then brush the fillets again. After three minutes, brush once more, then continue broiling until the salmon reaches desired doneness. Pair the succulent salmon with Tantalus Vineyards 2008 Riesling ($23 CDN) from B.C.’s Okanagan Valley. Made with grapes from 20-year-old vines, the wine opens with an intense aromatic bouquet followed by zingy lime and passionfruit flavors on the palate. Its juicy acidity pairs perfectly with many different cuisines, or sips supremely on its own. We conclude our summer feast with a cool, refreshing palate cleanser — Gewürztraminer Sorbet — from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994, $12.95). Since the dessert is frozen, be sure to choose a Gewürztraminer with pronounced varietal aromas and flavors of rosewater, orange and lychee. I like to use Snoqualmie Winery Naked Gewürtraminer, Latitude 46°N or the hypnotic Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 The Magician Gewürztraminer ($17) from the Columbia Valley, which tantalizes with intriguing flavors of peach, lychee and a hint of exotic spice. Begin by blending three-quarters of a cup of sugar with one cup of The Magician in a small, heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat to dissolve the sugar. When the mixture looks clear, remove it from the heat and blend it with the remaining wine and two teaspoons of fresh lemon juice. Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions and serve immediately, or repackage and freeze for up to one week. Spoon the sorbet into wine goblets and garnish with crispy Italian ladyfingers. Open another bottle of Gewürz and raise a glass to summer’s brimming bounty! Braiden Rex-Johnson has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
13 CSM ad
5/29/09
4:11 PM
Page 13
14 Swirl Sniff Sip
6/1/09
COLUMN
12:45 PM
Page 14
swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON
Oregon’s Spanish influence While wine touring recently in Southern Oregon, I encountered wines made from the Tempranillo grape for the first time and was told it originated in Spain. How did it end up in the Northwest?
T
empranillo is generally recognized as the best of the wines of Spain’s Rioja region, where it’s the premier grape. Usually it’s blended into the famous Rioja wines, but it also is often bottled as a single variety. One clue to its dominance: Of Rioja’s nearly 43,000 hectares of red wine grapes, more than 31,000 are planted in Tempranillo, according to The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia. So, how and why did Tempranillo come to Oregon? Much of the credit goes to Earl Jones of Abacela Vineyards & Winery near Roseburg, Ore. His enthusiasm for Tempranillo led him to uproot his family from Florida and move west to Oregon’s Umpqua Valley because he felt the climate was ideal for the grapes of Spain. His first commercial bottling of Tempranillo was in 1997, and his 1998 version won a double gold at the 2000 San Francisco International Wine Competition, besting all the Spanish and California entries. “The essence of it is that the world has long misunderstood the climate of Spain,” Jones said. “They don’t grow grapes in the desert area.” Instead, the Spanish grow their best wine grapes in the Rioja and the Ribera del Duero. Those two areas, Jones notes, are much like Southern Oregon in climate. The Tempranillo grape also is grown in the hotter areas of Spain, he said, but the heat means the growers tend to produce huge yields of 10 to 14 tons per acre from it, which “makes great bulk wine.” Before Jones picked the site for his winery and adjacent vineyards, he had traveled extensively in Spain in the 1980s. He discovered the area where the best Tempranillo is grown in the Rioja has a climate “that’s a dead ringer” for Walla Walla, Wash., and Medford, Ore. When he returned to the United States, he went exploring throughout the Northwest, traveling to Idaho, the Walla Walla Valley, the Yakima Valley near Prosser, Wash., and due south of that area across the Columbia River in Oregon. Finally, he bought his land near Roseburg in 1992. His vines went into the ground in 1995 and two years later he had his first vintage. Since his first big winner from the 1998 vintage was crushed, Tempranillo has built a small but growing and dedicated following, with well over 1,000 acres now grown in the United States, Jones said. His site sits in the southern end of a north-south valley that’s ideal for Pinot Noir in the north where about 60 inches of rain may fall a year and where the heat units total about 2,000 each growing season. 14
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Near Abacela, the rain dwindles to about 24 inches and the heat units rise to almost 3,000, which means Abacela’s vineyards require another 6 to 8 inches of irrigation. Winter temperatures rarely fall below 20 degree Fahrenheit. As the three-time president of the national Tempranillo organization, he easily can cite the plantings off the top of his head — about 700-800 acres in California, maybe a bit less than 200 in Oregon, 50 in Washington, 50 or less in Idaho, “and a little in Arizona near Tombstone.” Those statistics and sites tell the story of a wine grape that’s not yet reached its potential in the Northwest or the United States. In the hands of Abacela winemaker Andrew Wenzl and Jones, who can be found aboard his tractor preparing new land on the sloping site of his vineyard in the spring, Abacela’s Southern Oregon Tempranillo turns into a complex, full-bodied red with plum and blackberry flavors, solid tannins and plenty of aging potential. For his dedication to producing fine wines from Spanishclimate grapes, Jones recently was named the 2009 Oregon Vintner of the Year. He proudly claims his winery was Oregon’s first producer of wines made from 100 percent Oregon-grown Tempranillo — not to mention Albariño and Garnacha (Grenache). Tempranillo is catching on with other winemakers and grape growers in the Northwest as the amount of grapes increases. About a dozen Oregon wineries make Tempranillo from grapes grown in Southern Oregon and a few examples have come out of the Walla Walla Valley and other areas in Washington as well. Jones said longtime Washington winemaker Brian Carter of Brian Carter Cellars — who has made a red blend called Corrida that’s 65 percent Tempranillo — and Tedd Wildman, of Stonetree Vineyard on Washington’s Wahluke Slope, both are experimenting with Tempranillo. Wine Words: Rosado
We’ve been focused mostly on a Spanish wine grape, so why not a little lesson in Spanish as well? Rosado, which you’ll find on several Northwest wine labels nowadays, is the Spanish word for rosé wine. No doubt we’ll soon see “tinto” (red) and “tintillo” (a light red that’s darker than dark rosé), also known in Spain as “clarete.” KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 39 years and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 32 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
15 Sunshine ad
5/29/09
4:13 PM
Page 15
16 Teri Citterman
6/1/09
COLUMN
12:45 PM
Page 16
urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN
Ex-Germans and German exes
S
o the German and I are headed to … well, Germany. And on this particular trip, I’m meeting the ex-wife. Why? Because the German became good friends with the prince who took her off his hands. No, seriously. This is precisely when truth becomes stranger than fiction because, in many ways, I’m looking forward to it. And in anticipation of the invective-laced banter that may occur, I’m learning a few key phrases that I think may come in handy. Dies war zugegebenermaßen eine dumme Idee! Translated: Admittedly, this was a stupid idea! Das geht dich nichts an! Translated: That is none of your business! Was zum Teufel war das denn? Translated: What the hell was that about? But most importantly, like a good wife, I will come bearing gifts. And while her beverage du jour may be beer (she lives in the world’s beer capital), I’m coming armed with a few local Rieslings to see which one pairs best with the personality I’ve only heard stories about. For the PEW (psycho-ex-wife), Nefarious Cellars 2007 Riesling from Stone’s Throw Vineyard could be the perfect gift. This wine is a handful, let alone a mouthful. Synonymous with “extremely wicked or villainous” this is the wine your friend’s warned you about. Bunny boiler? No question! It opens with the voice of a 1900 operator — husky and smooth, yet clean and multilayered in a cloak of honeysuckle and pineapple, with a weave of citrusy grapefruit and lemon peel. It’s sexy with ripe, long legs, full of sweetness and length. Classy and complimentary, yet conniving, in the meantime. “I love dogs … bring the Dachshund ... I’m a great cook!” Hotdog, anyone? If she’s a RRGEW (really-really-German ex-wife) Steppe Cellars 2006 Dry Riesling, Rattlesnake Hills is the ticket. Like a good Riesling made by a good German, this wine is straightforward and uncomplicated. Staying true to winemaker Anke Freimuth-Wildman’s German heritage, this bursts of apple and honey, followed by a delicate lace of pear. It denotes those certain attributes some find offensive but I’ve come to appreciate: rational, fair, level-headed, industrious. But this wine seems to take it one step further. In the divorce, it offered to split everything 50/50 including the house. Now the three-story townhome stands split down the middle with a divider of plywood and sheet-rock. Hope you’re the lucky one who got the side with the kitchen or “take out” takes on a whole new meaning. Speaking of taking out, Kung Fu Girl 2008 Riesling, Columbia Valley is a chick you just don’t want to mess with. Blushing with floral layers, trailed by peach and apricot, this wine is demure for one moment. Then, the intensity ignites. It’s an expressive soprano that roars like a lioness, awak16
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
ened to find that the dingo ate her baby. Her wrath is unleashed in a whirl of emotion — liquid fury, so stand back! Nefarious might cook your dog, but Kung Fu Girl will kick your ass. With hints of minerality and stone fruit, don’t turn your back because her aim is good, and getting hit in the head with a stone fruit is never pleasant. For the NEW (normal ex-wife), Seven Hills 2006 Riesling, Columbia Valley is the perfect wine, and in this case, normal exceeds expectations. On the drier side, this wine is fresh, clean and balanced with a twirl of apple blossom. While it seems slightly one-dimensional, every bit of that dimension is tasty from beginning to end. It’s a flexible wine, crisp enough to serve at a brunch, yet interesting enough to enjoy at cocktail hour. It turns lemons into lemonade and just generally has a positive outlook. But when it perceives that time is up — then time is really up. No lollygagging, no tears — just a straightforward “get your shit, and get out.” There’s something for everyone, even in the event that she’s a HSEW (hot, slutty ex-wife). Milbrandt Vineyards 2007 Traditions Riesling, Washington is a glass of lemony effervescence; it’s light and bubbly, looks great in a tennis skirt and is as sharp as a marble. Tasting of honey and a burp of peach, this is a fun, simple wine — neither offended nor offensive. Its driveway doesn’t quite reach the road, but nonetheless, it’s of the mind that two’s a party and three’s … a bigger party. Rock on, you little juicy, peachy fizz! I’m sure there’s a man out there (along with all his buddies) who can’t wait to get your number! And finally, if she’s just a SACBEW (sweet-as-can-be ex-wife), well then toss in an eiswein, just for good measure. Columbia Crest 1998 Reserve Semillon Ice Wine was harvested on the exact date of the German’s 35th birthday (Jan. 13, 1998). Somehow, that must be meaningful to someone. This wine is goldengreen and there’s nothing slight about its sweetness. Screaming aromas of honey and fig invite you to test the waters. Upon first taste, Aplets and Cotlets hover on your tongue, while a stream of lychee inspires you to take the plunge. Oh wait, that’s what he did the first time… Because this saga is just that interesting, feel free to visit An Urban Sip Wine Blog — www.anurbansip.blogspot.com — to see how the drama unfolded; and if we found anything interesting to drink on our adventures in Munich and Paris. Tschuss! With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is the author of the latest edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
17 house ad
6/1/09
12:21 PM
Page 17
18-21 Calendar
6/1/09
12:36 PM
W I N E C O U N T RY
10
Page 18
activities
great things to do
in Northwest wine country
BY E R I C D E G E R M A N
There are fewer and fewer activities in the Northwest that don’t involve wine in some fashion. Well, we don’t play jai alai up here, but you can push a tee shot at Fairview Mountain Golf Course and into Bill Eggert’s tasting room at Fairview Cellars in Oliver, B.C. A guest at SageCliffe could enjoy a glass of Cave B’s 2007 Barbera while dressed in black tie and — accompanied by swanky young women in cocktail dresses and an exotic man under a fez — walk down a moonlit path through the shrub-steppe to the Columbia River near the Gorge at George. You could pilot a dinghy filled with beauty queens from Vancouver Island out to Salt Spring Vineyards, but Star Sail Cruises will take you on the Schooner Zodiac to San Juan Vineyards and Lopez Island Winery this August during its Northwest Wine Tour. OK, I can’t come up with any firm connection between Northwest wine and martial arts, however, I’ve read that Portland’s Aaron Stark, a ranked light heavyweight in MMA, helps manage Colene Clemens Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains. Surrounded by swanky young women at a table with drinks? Could happen at Coeur d’Alene Cellars’ Barrel Room No. 6, but I’m happy with my Traci. Besides, I’ve rubbed up against the gals in body paint at Whistler’s Cornucopia. No, I’m not “The Most Interesting Man in the World.” I’m not even the most interesting dude in my office. I can’t cultivate a decent soul patch, much less a beard. Yes, I’d be intoxicated by the sound of my own voice if I could speak English like Col Solare’s Italian owner Piero Antinori. My blood? It doesn’t smell like cologne, but it’d be pretty cool if it were akin to Woodward Canyon’s Artist Series No. 5. 18
Now, I don’t always drink wine, but when I do, I prefer Northwest wine. Stay thirsty this summer, my friends.
1
Spread your green close to home. Portland business owner Claudia Bowers saw herself and others getting hammered by this deep recession. Perhaps she was inspired by a verse from the R.E.M. song Stand — “Think about the place where you live. Wonder why you haven’t before.” So on June 27, the Oregon Convention Center in Portland will play host to the Best of Oregon Food & Wine Festival. The mission is to support and promote the local economy, and the slogan is “Keep it local.” More than 30 wineries will be represented, and a dozen culinary artists will demo food and wine pairing tips. It’s $25 to get in. Go to bestoforegonfoodandwine.com.
2
Glamping is in your Destiny. As if Jarrod and Ali Boyle need anything else on their heaping plate, the husband/wife team of Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser and Woodinville now are innkeepers/campground hosts. They’ve created ANC Glamping at their estate Destiny Ridge Vineyard, a spectacular site in the Horse Heaven Hills that overlooks Washington’s Crow Butte Park and the Columbia River. Your glamorous camping includes a wall tent with a large bed, small fridge, roofless (but walled) showers and your own deck with a gas grill. My favorite touch is the half wine barrel Ali deploys as a nightstand. Lodging starts at $250. Better hope the barking coyotes don’t keep you awake. Go to ancglamping.com for more.
3
A little juice for your little ones. Several wineries around Kelowna, British Columbia, have developed a great concept — haul your children
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
wine touring with you and teach them to swirl, sniff and sip. Tourism British Columbia is promoting family-friendly efforts by Gray Monk, Mission Hill and Summerhill, which offer tutored juice tastings featuring sparkling Okanagan Applessence. These apple-based non-alcoholic fun drinks are found in many wine shops and are flavored with cranberry, peach, pear, raspberry and other fruits. St. Hubertus provides places for children to use coloring books, pairing the experience also with Applessence and crackers.
4
Summer school at Foster & Dobbs. Foster & Dobbs Authentic Foods in northeast Portland carries all sorts of artisan products from boutique producers local and international, focusing on meat, cheese, wine, beer and other groceries. They also offer seasonal classes and wine-tasting programs. On July 9, Oregonian wine writer Katherine Cole will lead a 90-minute class on biodynamic wines. With her background, the $25 is a bargain. She might be the most highly educated wine judge in the Northwest, an Ivy Leaguer with degrees from Harvard and Columbia. She’s also taught journalism at Portland State. Check out the curriculum at fosteranddobbs.com.
5
When in Rhône. When the Rhône Rangers began spreading the word about the 22 recognized grape varieties in the Rhône Valley of France, Syrah was pretty cutting-edge stuff. Viognier was just being touted as an alternative to Chardonnay, but folks needed to be coached on how to pronounce it. Now, Northwest wineries are bottling Cinsault, Counoise, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Roussanne on their own. Nearly 30 Northwest wineries are members of the Rhône Rangers, includW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
18-21 Calendar
6/1/09
12:37 PM
Page 19
W I N E C O U N T RY ing Idaho’s Sawtooth Winery, whose president — Ken McCabe — serves on the group’s board of directors. On July 15, the Rhône Rangers return to Seattle for “Guest Chefs on the Waterfront.” More than 50 chefs, wineries, breweries and food purveyors will gather at Pier 66. Besides the food and the wine, there will be live jazz. Proceeds benefit FareStart’s job training and placement program. Cost is $70. Go to rhonerangers.org or call 800-467-0163.
6
Play a round at Wine Valley. Walla Walla welcomed its second public golf course this spring. The name — Wine Valley Golf Club — makes sense considering there are more than 120 wineries in the Walla Walla area. If you are traveling from the Tri-Cities, head east on Highway 12. Drive through Lowden (Woodward Canyon Winery and L’Ecole No. 41) then turn left at Cougar Crest Estate Winery’s new home on Frenchtown Road — formerly Ireland Road — and head north about a mile, past Long Shadows Vintners. Judging by the price of greens fees, it’s narrowly less expensive to purchase a bottle of Long Shadows red than to play 18 holes at Wine Valley GC. Go to winevalleygolfclub.com for information.
7
Toast a Heavenly sunset with fab Cabs. Ask Washington winemakers and if they don’t rank Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills among the best sources for Cabernet Sauvignon, they must be jealous. On Aug. 15, Chateau Champoux plays host to its sixth annual Sunset at the Chateau. If features Italian-themed dishes by Castle Catering, Port-style wines with chocolate, and Cabs made from Champoux fruit by the likes of Andrew Will, Boudreaux, Camas Prairie, Fidelitas, Januik, Powers, Sineann, Soos Creek, Three Rivers and Woodward Canyon. Cost is $165. Call 509-894-5005 or go chateauchampoux.com.
8
Your cellar is just an iTouch away. This spring, Chateau Ste. Michelle launched its “My Chateau,” a mobile phone application that rolls out a digital sommelier and digital cellar tied W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
19
18-21 Calendar
6/1/09
12:37 PM
Page 20
W I N E C O U N T RY to the Woodinville winery’s Web site. It’s a quick download and brings up two categories “My Pairings” and “My Cellar.” The pairings piece offers food and wine recommendations from the culinary team of John Sarich and Janet Hedstrom. The cellar provides a searchable and sortable library of each user’s wines. Get started at ste-michelle.com/mychateau.
9
Eagle has landed again. Idaho truly is wine country now. Sun Valley established a food and wine festival in 2007. The Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission pops the top on its inaugural event, Savor Idaho, on Fathers Day in Boise. And this year, the Eagle Chamber of Commerce stages its third annual Eagle Food and Wine Festival on Aug. 21-22. There were plenty of Idaho wines on display last year, and this year at Merrill Park is shaping up to be even better represented. Idaho chefs will pair food with Idaho wines. Call 208-939-4222 or go to eaglechamber.com.
10
Net a big one with Harry. Last year, Harry McWatters stepped down from his role as overlord of Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, but he’s still got his fingers in lots of things. One of the latest is the British Columbia Hospitality Foundation’s inaugural fishing tournament at the exclusive Langara Fishing Lodge among the Queen Charlotte Islands. Funds assist those in the food service, beverage or hospitality industries who need help because of accident or illness. The four-day event starts Sept. 4. Cost is $5,000. It includes transportation, accommodations, guided fishing, tournament prizes, meals, winemaker’s dinner and special wines with dinner. Contact Harry at 250-490-7946, wine@harrymcwatters.com or go to bchospitalityfoundation.com. ı What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. ı Have a Northwest wine item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events and follow the directions.
20
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
18-21 Calendar
5/31/09
2:15 PM
Page 21
events
W I N E C O U N T RY
June 19-20 Wine Country Celebration, Yakima, Wash. Festivities include winemaker dinners in the vineyards and the Grand Gala Auction and Benefit dinner at the DeAtley Estate. Call 206-285-0514 or go to winecountrywashington.org. 20 Sunshine and Wine, Yakima, Wash. This event is part of the Washington State Wine Competition. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com. 21 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission puts wineries and restaurants together at the Idaho Botanical Gardens. Cost is $40. Go to savoridaho.org. 21 Taste Washington Spokane. The historic Davenport Hotel plays host to the eighth edition of this event. Cost is $85. Go to tastewashington.org.
July 11 The Oregon Wine and Art Auction, Carlton, Ore. This marks the 17th annual auction, and Ken Wright Cellars plays host. Go theoregonwineandartauction.org or call 503-883-0323. 11 Ohme Gardens Summer Wine Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. Ohme Gardens celebrates its 80t anniversary by gathering area chefs and wineries from the Columbia River Wine Country group. Go to columbiariverwine.com. 15 Rhône Rangers Public Tasting, Seattle. This carnival-style tasting at Pier 66 is called “Guest Chef on the Waterfront”and includes wineries and restaurants. Proceeds benefit FareStart. Go to rhonerangers.org. 17-19 Kirkland Uncorked, Kirkland, Wash. City officials established the event in Kirkland Marina Park, featuring 60 wines from 20 wineries along with food-andwine pairing workshops. Go to kirklanduncorked.com or call 206-633-0422. 23-25 Sun Valley Wine Auction, Sun Valley, Idaho. The Sun Valley Center for the Arts stages its 28th annual charity wine auction. Go to sunvalleycenter.org. 24-26 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, Ore. Global Pinotphiles visit Linfield College for the 23nd year. Call 800-775-4762 or go to ipnc.org. 26 Oswego Wine and Food Festival, Lake Oswego, Ore. More than 20 wineries from across the state pour at Millennium Plaza Park. Go to lowineandfood.com.
August 7-8 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival, Vernon, B.C. The annual event at Silver Star Mountain Resort combines education and recreation. Go to thewinefestivals.com. 8 Prosser Wine and Food Fair, Prosser, Wash. More than 30 wineries will help celebrate the 28th anniversary of this late-day event, which now at Washington State University-Prosser. Call 800-408-1517 or go to prosserchamber.org. 13-15 Auction of Washington Wines, Woodinville, Wash. The Washington Wine Commission’s 22th annual benefit spans three days and centers at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Call 206-326-5747 or go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org. 21-22 Eagle Food & Wine Festival, Eagle, Idaho. Homegrown wines, foods and restaurants gather in Merrill Park for the third year. Go to eaglechamber.com. 21-23 Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, Vancouver, Wash. This 11th annual event at Esther Short Park features regional wineries, area restaurants and several topname recording artists. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com or call 360-906-0441. 22 Leavenworth Wine Tasting Festival, Leavenworth, Wash. Enjoy Washington wines, art and live music. Call 509-548-5807 or go to leavenworth.org. 29 Southern Oregon World of Wine Festival, Gold Hill, Ore. Del Rio Vineyards blends food, cheese, music and wines from more than 35 Rogue and Southern Oregon vintners. Call 541-855-2062 or go to worldofwinefestival.com.
September 12 Umpqua Valley Wine, Art & Music Festival, Roseburg, Ore. Umpqua Community College stages the 40th annual celebration of wines from southern Oregon and Lane County. Call 541-459-5120 or go to www.umpquavalleywineries.org. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
21
22-25 Seattle Wine Awards ads
6/3/09
5:00 PM
Page 22
22-25 Seattle Wine Awards ads
5/29/09
4:29 PM
Page 23
22-25 Seattle Wine Awards ads
5/29/09
4:30 PM
Page 24
22-25 Seattle Wine Awards ads
5/29/09
4:31 PM
Page 25
26-29 Front of Book
6/1/09
12:33 PM
Page 26
WINE VIEWS
Deals abound in Tri-Cities BY ‘BARGAIN BOB’ WOEHLER
Bargain Bob is practicing a bit of home cooking this time with two wineries less that five miles from his front door. Barnard Griffin and Tagaris wineries are side by side in Richland, Wash., and have a lot in common. In fact, Rob Griffin, the dean of Washington winemakers, helped train Frank Roth — the winemaker next door at Tagaris. Both men craft delicious, award-winning wines in the $15 range, some priced below $10. At Tagaris, Roth has created a second label, Eliseo Silva, named after the longtime vineyard manager. The Eliseo Silva wines retail for around $10 and are available mostly at the winery. Eliseo Silva 2007 White Riesling, Columbia Valley: This has sweet orchard fruit aro-
mas and flavors with good acidity. Eliseo Silva 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: It boasts good spicy oak
and peppers with Bing cherry flavors. Eliseo Silva 2007 La Rosa de Syrah, Columbia Valley: A gold-medal winner at
an international judging with dark cherries, oak spice and juicy mouth feel. Eliseo Silva 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley:
Think of chocolate and smooth blackberries. Check them out at tagariswines.com Next up are just a few of the bargains at Barnard Griffin, which can be found at many retail outlets and liquor stores. 2007 Fume Blanc, Columbia Valley, $6: It’s clean and crisp with zippy lime acidity. 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $12: This won double gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Competition. It’s brimming with berries and black cherries, joined by solid acidity and chewy tannins. 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $12: A sweepstakes winner at last fall’s
Tri-Cities Wine Festival. It opens with cedar and sandalwood aromas and is backed by black currants and plum flavors and velvety chocolate tannins. Go to barnardgriffin.com. 26
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
26-29 Front of Book
6/1/09
12:33 PM
Page 27
WINE NEWS
Lake Chelan is Washington’s 11th AVA The federal government certified the Lake Chelan area in north-central Washington as the state’s 11th distinct wine grape-growing region. The U.S. Department of Treasury’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau announced the establishment of area for appellation status on April 29. It became effective May 29. The government awards appellation status to regions, also known as American Viticultural Areas, to recognize their distinct climate and soil. The appellation for Lake Chelan, about 110 miles east of Seattle, includes lands adjacent to the southern 12 miles of Lake Chelan — a long, deep glacial lake jutting through the north Cascades. The region has 15 wineries and 260 acres of planted grapes. More plantings are expected. “Even though there’s only 260 acres planted, from a public importance perspective, this is a great place to come wine tasting,” said Judy Phelps, owner and winemaker at Hard Row to Hoe and past-president of the Lake Chelan Wine Growers Association. “Unlike some of the other AVAs, we’re already a tourist destination. In terms of facilities for tourists — restaurants and resorts and hotels — as a destination wine tasting spot, we’ve got it all over those other guys,” she said. Washington is the nation’s secondlargest producer of premium wine, after California. Grape plantings increased from 24,000 acres in 1999 to an estimated 33,000 this year, and Washington licensed its 602nd winery in February. The first vinifera grapes were planted in the Lake Chelan area in 1998. Lake Chelan was the second AVA in Washington to be certified by the TTB in 2009. Snipes Mountain, a 4,145-acre area in the Yakima Valley, received recognition in January. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
27
26-29 Front of Book
6/1/09
12:33 PM
D E S T I N AT I O N S
Page 28
a weekend around in kelowna, b.c.
A super, natural region in the Okanagan BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON
Kelowna is the perfect place to begin exploring British Columbia’s largest wine-growing region. It’s centrally located in the Okanagan Valley, framed by picture-postcard views of lakes and mountains and a cluster of outstanding wineries, restaurants and artisan-food producers. Wineries: Twenty-one of British Columbia’s 98 wineries nestle near the towns of Kelowna and Westbank. One of the world’s most beautiful wineries, Mission Hill Family Estate, rises up like a grand Italian villa in a residential section of Westbank. Sign up for a tour of the dramatic underground barrel room, taste through award-winning wines, then lunch at The Terrace restaurant. Just down the hill lies Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, where the tasting room offers nonstop views of the lake, while the Old Vines Patio restaurant serves up top-shelf food, sophisticated service and the chance to dine in the estate vineyards. Summerhill Pyramid Winery, British Columbia’s largest certified-organic winery and brainchild of Stephen Cipes, is believed to be the only winery in the world aging wine in a pyramid. Tours of the pyramid cost $5 and are given four times each afternoon. Don’t miss a meal at the Sunset Bistro. CedarCreek Estate Winery produces some of the valley’s most popular and highly regarded wines, including Ehrenfelser, Merlot and Pinot Noir. It’s a great place to enjoy a summer concert and open-air lunch. Tantalus Vineyards (open Friday through Sunday in season, or by appointment) sits on a beautiful parcel where old-vine Riesling produces top-notch wines. And Little Straw Vineyards is justly proud of its Barrel Top Grill. Up in Lake Country, Gray Monk Estate Winery offers stunning views of the water and estate vineyards from the Grapevine Restaurant. Arrowleaf Cellars offers fascinating coolclimate varieties such as Bacchus and Zwiegelt. Food: In March, the Okanagan’s first white-tablecloth restaurant, Fresco, morphed into a casual eatery called RauDZ (pronounced “Rod’s”), but remains under the steady hand of chef Rod Butters. Bouchons serves French bistro-style food in a cozy atmosphere. Wine bars include The Rotten Grape (featuring the valley’s first Enomatic wine-dispensing system), Vintropolis and Waterfront Wines Restaurant & Wine Bar. Outside of downtown Kelowna, on Lakeshore Road, you’ll enjoy food-and-wine pairing at Wild Apple at Manteo Resort, baked goods at La Boulangerie Bakery/Pastry/Deli, the wraparound patio and fire pit at Cabana Bar and Grille, elevated pub grub at Pheasant and Quail Pub, Seven Six Four Restaurant (operated by chef Mark Filatow of Waterfront Wines fame) and Sunday brunch at Hotel Eldorado. Other foodie haunts include Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan (goat’s-milk cheese and gelato), Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads (artisan bread and baked goods), The Jammery (local 28
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Stephen Cipes, proprietor of Summerhill Pyramid Winery, often leads the tours of his unique cellar in Kelowna, British Columbia. PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM
fruit jams made right before your eyes), Raven Ridge Cidery, Tree Brewing Co., Okanagan Lavender Herb Farm and the Kelowna Farmers Market. Lodging: Bed down in the vineyards at small, family-run bedand-breakfast inns or opt for the recently remodeled Delta Grand Okanagan Resort and Conference Centre in the heart of Kelowna’s cultural district. A short drive from downtown, Manteo Resort offers secluded comfort and soulful walks along Lake Okanagan. In Westbank, The Cove Lakeside Resort is aptly named for its cove-front location. And don’t leave home without your passport! Passports are required as of June 1, 2009. More info: Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association: totabc.com; British Columbia Official Tourism Site: hellobc.com. During the annual Okanagan Fall Wine Festival (Oct. 1-11), 165 wine-related events are offered throughout the Okanagan Valley. Learn more at owfs.com. BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON is a Seattle-based writer and columnist for Wine Press Northwest. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
26-29 Front of Book
6/1/09
12:35 PM
Page 29
BOOK REVIEWS
2 new books explore Oregon wine, NW cheese BY A N D Y P E R D U E
WineTrails of Oregon, by Steve Roberts, 2009, South Slope Publications, Mercer Island, Wash., $24.95.
Steve Roberts is continuing his exploration of Pacific Northwest wine country. Fresh off the success of his first book, WineTrails of Washington, Roberts has published his follow-up, WineTrails of Oregon. In it, he explores the regions of Oregon wine country, from the Columbia River Gorge to the Willamette Valley to Southern Oregon. Each entry of this 540page volume provides interesting tidbits on each winery he visited, along with photos, maps and information such as tasting fees, hours and amenities. Roberts breaks the state into 10 regions, then further delineates each region into palatable winery tours. In all, there are more than 200 wine trails that define Oregon wine country. Roberts’ folksy style of writing gives this book a friendly feel, kind of like you have an expert wine-tasting companion with you in your car as you explore Oregon wine country.
grounds on each producer and highlights every cheese produced. Want to know how Rogue River Creamery in Medford, Ore., gained its fame? Why is Sally Jackson in Oroville, Wash., such a recluse? You will find out in these pages.
The art of making cheese is just as fascinating and important as crafting wine. Parr covers these nuances in fascinating detail, making this book a must for lovers of Pacific Northwest cheese, wine and food.
Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest, by Tami Parr, 2009, Countryman Press, Vermont, $19.95.
Especially in the past half-decade, the artisan cheese industry in the Northwest has exploded, and Tami Parr has chronicled this in her blog, Pacific Northwest Cheese Project. Parr, who lives in Portland, has now put her knowledge on paper in the form of the newly released Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest. This comprehensive guide explores cheese producers in Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and Idaho — 71 in all. Each entry provides fascinating backW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
29
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
12:46 PM
Page 30
WINE TOURING
Along the Lower Columbia River Gorge STORY & PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N
A
bird’s-eye view of the Columbia River Gorge on a sunny day is nothing short of breathtaking. Downriver to the west, the evergreens canvas the cliffs. Upstream to the east, sagebrush and wind turbines dot the arid landscape.
30
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
In between, views of snowcapped Mount Hood and Mount Adams peek around every bend along the blue ribbon of the Columbia. Looking around, it’s hard to escape the fact that this 80-mile-long canyon, which was carved out of the
Cascade range by the Columbia River and the ice age floods between approximately Troutdale, Ore., and Maryhill, Wash., is one of the most beautiful stretches of the Pacific Northwest. And it’s easy to see why anyone who loves the great out-
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
12:49 PM
Page 31
Samuel Lancaster, an engineer who helped build the historic Columbia River Highway in the early 1900s, proposed Vista House, which sits at the summit of Crown Point along the highway, as “an observatory from which the view both up and down the Columbia could be viewed in silent communion with the infinite.” It continues to serve its original purpose.
doors would flock here. “It’s just a mecca for sports: skiing, biking, rafting, fishing, hunting. It’s got everything you need if you’re an outdoorsman, that’s for sure,” says Scott Hagee, who owns Pheasant Valley Vineyard & Winery
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
in Hood River with his wife, Gail. With all the wind surfers, kite boarders and sports enthusiasts who come here and the fact that wine grapes grow well in the silty soil along the river, it’s no wonder the Gorge is also becoming a food and wine hotspot.
“We get an influx of a hundred thousand people here in the summertime,” Hagee says. “And people are just drinking more wine. The restaurants are second to none here. We just have great food. The wine and food go hand-in-hand, of
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
31
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
F E AT U R E
12:50 PM
Page 32
gorge
Celilo Vineyard, across the Columbia from Hood River, grows grapes for first-rate wineries such as Ken Wright Cellars and Woodward Canyon.
course. It’s a really good relationship,” Hagee says. Linda Barber, general manager of Mount Hood Winery, who moved to the Gorge area from the Willamette Valley eight years ago, agrees that the wine business in Hood River, for whatever reason, is booming. “The growth and development that’s evolved is amazing. Downtown with The Pines, Quenette, Springhouse Cellars and Naked all within a block of each other, it’s sort of like Walla Walla. You know, you park your car and you can walk around to different tasting rooms. It’s crazy down there.” For Gary Sorrels, the general manager of Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa in North Bonneville, Wash., the tourism boom here is all about location: its proximity to the Portland population center to be specific. “The Columbia Gorge is a great, easy-to-get-to destination from Portland. You can make last-minute plans very easily.” Whatever the reason, the 32
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Scott Hagee, owner of Pheasant Valley Vineyard & Winery, looks out over his vineyard, which on a clear day includes a view of Mount Hood.
Columbia River Gorge is sure to continue to grow in popularity as a wine touring destination as more wineries pop up in the area. So before it gets too crowded, here are some things you might want to check out.
WINERIES THERE ARE WINERIES AND vineyards along both sides of the Columbia River, some in the Columbia Gorge appellation, which was established in 2004, and the rest in the older Columbia Valley AVA. In Hood River off Interstate 84 you’ll find the following wineries: P H E A S A N T VA L L E Y V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY
Pheasant Valley Vineyard & Winery, which has the first certified organic vineyard along the Gorge, hasn’t gotten too far away from its roots. “About five years ago, we decided we’d grow some grapes, so we took 16 acres of pears out and planted 16 acres of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, some Syrah, some Tempranillo and some Gewürztraminer. And they all seem to do really well,” says Scott Hagee, who along with his wife, Gail, were certified organic pear and apple orchardists long before going into
the wine business. Now that they’re making 4,000 cases of wine a year with the help of winemaker Garrit Stoltz, oddly it’s not their award-winning Syrahs or Zinfandels that are their best-sellers. “We do an organic pear wine, which is very popular,” Scott explains. “I don’t know if it’s because pears are grown around here and everybody just wants them. We do it on the dry side so it’s food-friendly, great with salads. It’s our best-selling wine.” And, of course, their Organic Pear Wine gets its fruit from none other than Pheasant Valley Orchards, where the Hagees still grow 15 acres of pears and 5 acres of apples. 3890 Acree Drive, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-387-3040, pheasantvalleywinery.com C AT H E D R A L R I D G E W I N E RY
Robb Bell took over this winery in 2003 when Don Flerchinger retired. Bell changed the name from Flerchinger Vineyards to Cathedral Ridge Winery. Since then, Bell has focused a lot of effort on producing great red wines with the help of winemaker Michael Sebastiani, who travels several times a year from his home in Sonoma, Calif., to check barrel samples and craft blends. Bell’s efforts have paid off with a large number of awards, and in 2007 we named Cathedral Ridge our Oregon Winery of the Year. In addition to offering free tastings daily, Cathedral Ridge also offers private vineyard tours and classes for groups who book ahead. 4200 Post Canyon Drive, Hood River, OR 97031, 800-516-8710, cathedralridgewinery.com
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
12:51 PM
Page 33
gorge
F E AT U R E
Views of Mount Hood and the Columbia River can be seen near Lyle, Wash. M T. H O O D W I N E RY
Mt. Hood Winery has a tasting room at the Gorge White House but plans to open its new 8,000-square-foot facility on the 4th of July. It will have offices, a tasting room and storage, along with a venue for weddings. Brothers Steve and Don Bickford, along with Don’s wife Libby, own the winery with Rich Cushman, the owner of Viento, making their wines. Like other wineries along the Fruit Loop, the Bickfords were once orchardists. The story goes that about five years ago they got a good deal on some winemaking equipment. “And they decided that, ‘Well, we have the equipment. We’d better plant some grapes,’” chuckles Linda Barber, their general manager. In addition to their white wines, the winery offers an estate Pinot Noir, a rosé made from Pinot Noir called Saigneé and a fortified portstyle dessert wine made from Pinot Noir called Puerto Montaña. Apparently, this lineup has to do with meeting their customers’ expectations. “People when they come in here, they really want Pinots. I don’t know if it’s a Portland thing or what,” Barber says. “But people will walk in and they’ll say, ‘I want some Pinot. I’m here to buy Pinot.’” And Mt. Hood Winery is happy to oblige. Currently at 2265 state Route 35, Hood River, OR 97031; soon to be moving to 2882 Van Horn Drive, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-8333, mthoodwinery.com VIENTO
Rich Cushman, Hood River native and longtime Oregon winemaker, named his win-
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
ery Viento, the Spanish word for wind. Cushman has a small 1.5-acre Riesling vineyard but buys most of his grapes so he can concentrate on winemaking. Once Mount Hood Winery moves into its new facility, Cushman — who is without a tasting room — will move into its old digs at the Gorge White House. Moving soon to: 2265 Highway 35, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-3026, vientowines.com N A K E D W I N E RY
The Barringer and Michalec families make their wines in Wishram, Wash., but the action’s at their tasting room/wine bar in downtown Hood River. This self-proclaimed World’s Sexiest Winery has some very funny labels, such as Dominatrix Pinot Noir and Foreplay Chardonnay, all made with “orgasmically grown” grapes. In addition to wine tasting, they offer live music nights on Fridays, Saturdays and Mondays, staying open until 10 p.m. 102 Second St., Hood River, OR 97031, 800-666-9303, nakedwinery.com THE PINES 1852
Winegrower Lonnie Wright started working The Pines Vineyard in 1982, but it wasn’t the first time that grapes were grown there. Louis Comini, an Italian stone mason, brought some vines with him when he moved from Genoa to the Gorge in the 1800s. Lonnie was able to revive these old vines, which are now the Old Vine Zinfandel block of the vineyard.
After growing grapes for several years and selling to winemakers such as Sineann’s Peter Rossback, in 2001, Wright decided to keep some of his grapes and start his own winery, The Pines 1852. Wright’s whole family is involved in the business, and Rossback makes their wines. You can arrange for a group tour of their vineyard in The Dalles or stop by their tasting room/wine bar/art gallery in downtown Hood River. Most Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights they are open late with live music. 202 State St., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-993-8301, thepinesvineyard.com Q U E N E T T W I N E RY
James and Molli Martin took their winery’s name from the Lewis and Clark journals where it refers to Quenett Creek (now Mill Creek), in The Dalles, where Lewis and Clark set up their Fort Rock camp. The Martins will be setting up their own camp soon in The Dalles, called Sunshine Mill. Until then, you can find them at their downtown Hood River tasting room/wine bar, which stays open late Friday and Saturday nights. The countertop and benches at their tasting room are recycled church pews found from a “going out of business” listing online. James jokes that it’s appropriate “so you can have a spiritual experience while you’re here.” Try some of their Zinfandel, Syrah or Sangiovese and you’ll see what he means. 111 Oak St., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-2229, quenett.com
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
33
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/3/09
F E AT U R E
5:05 PM
Page 34
gorge
Nora Mounce packs wine in a case box at Syncline Wine Cellars.
SPRINGHOUSE CELLAR
James and Lisa Matthisen opened their tasting room near Mount Hood Railroad in downtown Hood River, and consider their enterprise a love-of-labor and vice versa. Their sense of humor is obvious with the names they’ve given their wines, such as Perpetual Merlotion, Make Cab Not War, and Peace, Love and Chardonnay. And for every bottle of this last one sold, they donate a dollar to Seeds of Peace. One of the unique features here is that they incorporate a European wine tradition — they’ll let you bring in an empty bottle and they’ll fill it from their wine spigots. They also offer cheese and sausage plates and outdoor seating where you can relax with a glass of wine. 13 Railroad Ave., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-308-0700, springhousecellar.com W Y ’ E A S T V I N E YA R D S
Christie and Dick Reed got started in the wine business after moving to Hood River from Chicago to raise their children. After getting their feet wet partnering with Mt. Hood Winery, they branched out to start their own winery. Sineann’s Peter Rosback makes their wine. 3189 Highway 35, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-1277, wyeastvineyards.com M A R C H E S I V I N E YA R D S A N D W I N E RY
Franco Marchesi, who grew up in Piedmont, Italy, brings his love of Italian vari-
34
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
The Gorge White House, a wine shop and wine bar in Hood River, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
eties to the foothills of Mount Hood. He grows Barbera, Dolcetto, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero. Alexis Pouillon of Domaine Pouillon makes Marchesi’s wine. 3955 Belmont Drive, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-1800, marchesivineyards.com P H E L P S C R E E K V I N E YA R D S
Along the Fruit Loop by the Hood River Golf Course, this winery is owned by Bob Morus, who has 20 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Winemaker Rich Cushman, who owns Viento, uses these estate grapes along with those bought from other vineyards to make a large selection of wine for Phelps Creek. Several wines can be bought at lower prices as futures, but the best prices are reserved for their wine club members.
Cabernet Franc won a gold at last year’s Northwest Wine Summit and a platinum from our best-of-the-best judging. They have special events planned year-round including their Running with the Bulls, a celebration of Tempranillo in late June. 196 Spring Creek Road, Husum, WA 98623, 509-493-2324 windrivercellars.com W H I T E S A L M O N V I N E YA R D
This Underwood, Wash., winery is open by appointment only. 509-493-4640, whitesalmonvineyard.com MAJOR CREEK CELLARS
This small winery in White Salmon, Wash., is open for special events and by appointment only.
1850 Country Club Rd., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-2607, phelpscreekvineyards.com
503-860-8713, majorcreekcellars.com
CROSS OVER THE HOOD RIVER Bridge from to the Washington side of the Gorge and you find a few wineries to check out:
Formerly Bad Seed Cider, North Shore Wine Cellars, owned by Craig and Kelly Sawyer, in downtown Bingen specializes in hard ciders and dessert fruit wines, including a chocolate cherry wine.
N O RT H S H O R E W I N E C E L L A R S
WIND RIVER CELLARS
It’s a little off the beaten path to get to Kris and Joel Goodwillie’s Wind River Cellars, but it’s worth the trouble, especially on a clear day when you’ll have a spectacular view of Mount Hood from their hilltop winery. Their wine equals their view. In fact, their 2006
221 W. Steuben St., Bingen, WA 98605, 509-493-3881
LYLE, WASH., NOW WITH A HALF dozen wineries off the Lewis and Clark Highway (Highway 14) is turning into a wine hotspot:
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
12:54 PM
Page 35
gorge
F E AT U R E
Joanne Harris serves up beer and wine at The Gorge White House.
U-pick tulips are in bloom at The Gorge White House. COR CELLARS
Luke Bradford started COR Cellars in 2005 after working for a couple of years in Italian wineries, then working as an assistant winemaker at Wind River Cellars and then at Syncline. 151 Lyle White Salmon Rd. (Highway 8), Lyle, WA 98635, 509-365-2744, corcellars.com DOMAINE POUILLON
Alexis Pouillon and his wife, Juliet, own this small artisan winery, formerly Domaine Pierre Noire, along with a small farm where they also raise chickens. Alexis makes 1,500 cases a year and stays busy as the winemaker for Marchesi Vineyards and Winery. 170 Lyle Snowden Road, Lyle, WA 98635, 509-365-2795, domainepouillon.com
at this small, family-owned and -operated winery. 421 State St. (Highway 14), Lyle, WA 98635, 503-577-3906, jacobwilliamswinery.com K L I C K I TAT C A N Y O N W I N E RY
Robin Dobson, a botanist/ecologist with the U.S. Forest Service, is the owner and winemaker at this small, certified-organic processor. He proudly proclaims that his wines are vegan, with no added sulfites or yeasts. He ferments them until they are completely dry, and does everything possible to let the grapes stand on their own without chemically altering them. 6 Lyle-Snowden Road, Lyle, WA 98635, 509-365-2900, klickitatcanyonwinery.com
ILLUSION
31 Schilling Road, Lyle, WA 98635, 206-261-1682, illusionwine.com J A C O B W I L L I A M S W I N E RY
John Haw, formerly the head winemaker at Maryhill Winery, is the consulting winemaker
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
111 Balch Road, Lyle, WA 98635, 509-365-4361, synclinewine.com
ON EITHER SIDE OF THE DALLES bridge you’ll find wineries, some in Dallesport on the Washington side and some in The Dalles on the Oregon side: M A R S H A L’ S W I N E RY & V I N E YA R D
M C C O R M I C K FA M I LY V I N E YA R D S
Illusion was established in 2002 by Dave and Dina Guest in Black Diamond, Wash. They purchased 20 acres near Lyle in 2004 and last year opened their boutique winery’s tasting room. Call ahead or check the calendar on their Web site to make sure they’ll be open for your trip.
couple has been concentrating their efforts on making about 4,500 cases of wine annually using Viognier, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Cinsault, Counoise and Syrah, and racking up the awards and accolades at every turn. They have a loyal following of about 500 wine club members, most from the Seattle area.
Memaloose Wines is the primary label for this family-run organic vineyard that has sites along both sides of the Gorge. Brian McCormick makes the wines, which can be sampled at their Mistral Ranch location. Bring a picnic and enjoy the view. 101 Lyle-Snowden Road (access from Murdock Road), Lyle, WA 98635, 360-635-2887, winesofthegorge.com SYNCLINE WINE CELLARS
James Mantone is the winemaker, vineyard manager and founder of this boutique winery that he runs with the help of his wife, Poppie. Inspired by a passion for Rhône wines, the
Ron Johnson, who has been making wine since 1956, named this winery after his son, Marshal. With some wineries, it can be difficult to determine when to stop by or if they are even open to the public. Not so at Marshal’s, where the Web site encourages you to call or visit seven days a week, anytime between 9 a.m. and midnight. It reads, “Stop by and we’ll celebrate!” 150 Oak Creek Road, Dallesport, WA 98617, 509-767-4633, marshalsvineyard.com GORGE CREST WINERY
This Underwood, Wash., winery and wedding/event venue is open by appointment only.
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
35
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
F E AT U R E
12:55 PM
Page 36
gorge
A Wind River Cellars Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay is poured during a wine and cheese tasting at Bonneville Hot Springs & Resort.
They bottled their first vintage in 2007. 509-493-2026, gorgecrest.com S H A D Y G R O V E W I N E RY
This Dallesport, Wash., winery is open for special events and by appointment only. 509-767-4000, shadygrovewinery.com B O LT O N C E L L E R S
Homesteaded in 1858, the Dufur Valley farmland where Bolton Cellars is located has been in the Boton family for four generations. The tasting room in The Dalles is open Wednesdays through Sundays. 306 Court St., The Dalles, OR 97058, 541-296-7139, boltoncellars.com D RY H O L L O W V I N E YA R D S
Surrounded by the Hi-Valley cherry orchard and next to the Hi-Valley Vineyards, the Dry Hollow Vineyards’ new tasting room is ideal for a Saturday afternoon picnic or horseback ride. Call ahead if you want to go on the horseback tour. 3410 Dry Hollow Lane, The Dalles, OR 97058, 541-2962953, dryhollowvineyards.com E R I N G L E N N W I N E RY AT T H E M I N T
In 1864, Congress commissioned the building of a mint in The Dalles to turn the
36
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
A family of wild turkeys walks along the road to Wind River Cellars.
gold from the Canyon City diggings into coins. Unfortunately, not as much gold was found as anticipated, so construction on the mint was stopped before completion. The fortresslike structure with its huge blocks of hand-hewn stone carted from Mill Creek was never used as a mint. Tim and Erin Schechtel moved their winery and tasting room into the mint in 2005. Live music and a small plates menu prepared by chef Lise Larson can be found at the winery on Friday nights. 710 E. Second St., The Dalles, OR 97058, 541-296-4707, eringlenn.com
ALONG THE LONELY STRETCH OF Highway 14 between Dallesport, Wash., and Maryhill, there’s a single winery. CASCADE CLIFFS V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY
Bob Lorkowski, the owner and winemaker of this small winery, earned our highest award in our last best-of-the-best judging with his 2006 Barbera. He and his partners purchased Cascade Cliffs from founder Ken Adcock in 1997. Lorkowski produces estate wines concentrating on northern Italian varieties such as Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo, in addition to some not as well-known varieties such as Symphony, a cross between Muscat of
Alexandria and Grenache Gris developed by a University of California-Davis professor. 8866 Highway 14, Wishram, WA 98673, 509-767-1100, cascadecliffs.com
THE BIGGS RAPIDS-SAM HILL Memorial Bridge, which continues U.S. Route 97 across the Columbia River, has two wineries nearby: M A RY H I L L W I N E RY & A M P H I T H E AT R E
Vicki and Craig Leuthold won not only platinum awards for their 2005 Cabernet Franc and 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec wines in our recent best-of-the-best judging, but they also were named our 2009 Washington Winery of the Year. Their cliffside winery produces 80,000 cases a year, making it the 15th-largest wine producer in Washington. It opened in 2001. As if the wines weren’t enough, they’ve also turned the hillside next to the winery into an open-air concert venue. This summer, Counting Crows, Jackson Browne and John Legend will perform there. Concert-goers are able to purchase bottles of wine so they can sit on the grassy hillside sipping some of Maryhill’s finest. 9774 Highway 14, Goldendale, WA 98620, 877-627-9445 maryhillwinery.com
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
12:56 PM
Page 37
gorge
F E AT U R E
The Columbia Cliff Villas are next to a 200-foot waterfall, one of many water features in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. WAV I N G T R E E V I N E YA R D S & W I N E RY
The log cabin tasting room is across from the Maryhill State Park off Highway 97 just north of the Biggs Rapids-Sam Hill Memorial Bridge. The wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Barbera, Grenache, Syrah and Viognier, mostly made from estate vines on the banks of the Columbia River just below the Stonehenge replica monument to World War I veterans. 2 Maryhill Highway (Highway 97), Goldendale, WA 98620, 509-773-6552, wavingtreewinery.com
ON THE EASTERNMOST EDGE OF the Columbia Gorge, in the middle of wheat farms, cattle ranches and wind turbines, is a lone winemaking outpost. W H E AT R I D G E I N T H E N O O K W I N E RY
Larry Bartlemay, who has worked as both cowhand and wheat farmer on land his grandfather homesteaded, has turned his basement winemaking hobby into a job. At the end of a 5-mile-long gravel road, you’ll find a vineyard where wheat once grew, and a tasting room attached to a refurbished garage. However, they are already dreaming of a future chateau. They’re open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
11102 Philippi Canyon Lane, Arlington, OR 97812, 541-454-2585, wheatridgeinthenook.com
514 State St.. Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-4647, wine-sellers.com
WINE SHOPS
LODGING
IF YOU ARE NOT ABLE TO GET TO all the wineries along the Gorge, you can always try to round out your shopping at some local wine shops. Here are a couple of note in Hood River:
IF YOUR VISIT TO THE GORGE IS more than just a day trip, then you’ll have plenty of options for where to stay depending on your budget. A few of the choices that stand out are also great places to eat:
THE GORGE WHITE HOUSE
BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS R E S O RT & S PA
Located in an historic farmhouse along the Fruit Loop, this wine shop/wine bar sells wines from 34 Gorge wineries in addition to local microbrews. It offers fresh local fruit in season and has fields of U-pick flowers. It’s a good spot to bring your picnic lunch and enjoy a glass of wine or a pint of beer. 2265 state Route 35, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-2828, thegorgewhitehouse.com THE WINE SELLERS
With more than 500 wines for sale, those from around the world in addition to around the Gorge, specialty food items, gifts and goodies, there’s sure to be something at The Wine Sellers for everyone.
Along the wooded shore of the Washington side of the Columbia you’ll find this resort not far from Bridge of the Gods. And if you find it early on your trip, you may be tempted to cancel the rest of your travel plans and just stay here and be pampered until it’s time to go home. After all, it has an impressive wine list, heavy on local Gorge wines, but also with page after page of great wines from both Washington and Oregon. This is what earned one of our Outstanding Northwest Wine List awards. It also has wine and cheese tastings for $15 in the Great Room on Friday and Saturday nights. Local wine enthusiast Mark Johnson will offer you generous pours of each wine
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
37
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
F E AT U R E
12:58 PM
Page 38
gorge
Stop by Quenett Winery in downtown Hood River and you’re likely to see owners James and Molli Martin chatting with guests. with information about the winery and his tasting notes along with recommendations for which of the cheeses, such as the Rogue Creamery Chocolate Stout Cheddar, to try with each. And if the large plate of cheese, fruit and bread hasn’t filled you up, the restaurant featuring chef Michael Hendrickson is top-notch. Of course, there’s also the whole mineral springs thing. Even if you don’t subscribe to the healing properties of the water piped down from the natural mineral hot springs on the mountain nearby, you can still enjoy taking a dip in it. It offers a heated indoor pool, Jacuzzis indoors and out, a sauna, suites available with private hot tubs, and the full-service spa features mineral baths, wraps and massages among many other treatments. 1252 E. Cascade Drive, North Bonneville, WA 98639, 509-427-7767, bonnevilleresort.com COLUMBIA CLIFF VILLAS
Next to the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel, its beautiful gardens and 200-foot waterfall down to the Columbia River are these vacation condominiums which are available to rent by the night. Some can also be purchased with the option of renting them the nights you’re not there. Many of these luxuri-
38
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
ous condos, available with up to three bedrooms depending on the size of your group, have remarkable views of the Columbia River. The Columbia Gorge Hotel closed recently. It may reopen if new owners are found. 4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-5566, columbiacliffvillas.com SKAMANIA LODGE
amenities. The restaurant, Cornerstone Cuisine, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. 102 Oak St., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-1900, hoodriverhotel.com COLUMBIA RIVER GORGEH O O D R I V E R B & B A S S O C I AT I O N
If you prefer smaller, more intimate accommodations, this is the place to look at.
This mountain resort overlooks the Columbia River. In addition to its guest rooms and suites, it offers a conference and event center, an 18-hole golf course, a full-service spa and fitness center including an indoor heated swimming pool, saunas and indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis, hiking trails and tennis, basketball and volleyball courts. Its restaurant, The Cascade Room, has a wood-fired grill and serves up dishes using local ingredients.
541-386-6767, gorgelodging.com
1131 S.W. Skamania Lodge Way, Stevenson WA 98648, 800-221-7117, skamania.com
Inside the Best Western Hood River Inn, this restaurant has one of the best views of the river in town and is also a past winner of our Outstanding Oregon Wine List award.
HOOD RIVER HOTEL
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this downtown hotel was built in 1913. It underwent a complete renovation in the late ’80s after it had gone unoccupied for almost 20 years. It now retains many of the charms of yesteryear coupled with modern
RESTAUR ANTS THERE ARE MANY GREAT PLACES to eat along the Gorge, especially in Hood River. Here are a few favorites: RIVERSIDE GRILL
1108 E. Marina Way, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-2200, bestwesternoregon.com THE SIXTH STREET BISTRO & LOFT
Owner Chris Creasy took a windsurfing vacation here a dozen years ago, and the rest
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
30-39 gorge.qxd
6/1/09
12:59 PM
Page 39
gorge
F E AT U R E
The Pines 1852 tasting room in downtown Hood River often has live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
is history. A good selection of Washington and Oregon wines, local microbrews and fresh Northwest ingredients make this restaurant popular with locals. 509 Cascade Ave., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-5737, sixthstreetbistro.com THREE RIVERS GRILL
There’s a large sunny deck with a view of the Columbia River and Hood River Bridge, chef Carlos Mendoza’s Northwest cuisine with a taste of Mexico thrown in, and its all wrapped up with a nice Gorge-heavy wine list. The combination is why this restaurant draws as many guests as it does. 601 Oak St., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-8883, 3riversgrill.com C E L I L O R E S TA U R A N T A N D B A R
The restaurant’s menu and decor are remininescent of Wildwood in Portland, and special events include wine dinners with chef Ben Stenn hosting Northwest winemakers. One fan, Autumn Woods of the Columbia Gorge Winegrowers Association says, “Celilo, especially, embraces the Northwest and believes in the drinking local, eating local ethos.” 16 Oak St., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-5710, celilorestaurant.com
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
SOLSTICE WOOD FIRE CAFÉ
Just across the bridge from Hood River, this café’s imported Italian wood-fire oven is central to preparing the rustic Tuscan-style pizzas. It also features local wines and microbrews, panninis, soups and salads. 415 W. Steuben St, Bingen, WA 98605, 509-493-4006, solsticewoodfirecafe.com G O O D R I V E R R E S TA U R A N T
Its Web site says it best: “Best Gorge views, recycled old house, local farm food, Northwest wines, Northwest beers, imaginative cocktails.” What more could you ask? 904 Second Ave., Mosier, OR 97040, 541-478-0200, goodriverrestaurant.com
For the burgers, the bar makes and bakes its own buns and grinds its beef fresh. 205 Court St., The Dalles, OR 97058, 541-296-5666, baldwinsaloon.com
MORE INFO HERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PLACES to search when looking for more information about traveling along the Gorge: COLUMBIA GORGE WINEGROWERS
866-413-9463, columbiagorgewine.com
BALDWIN SALOON
COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE
This historic restaurant and bar date back to 1876. The original brick walls and fir floor complement the decor along with an 18-foot long mahogany backbar from the early l900s and several turn-of-the-century oil paintings, several by Joseph J. Englehart. The wine list has about 70 Northwest wines — many of them local — and regularly features seven by the glass. It also offers local microbrews and an extensive menu.
V I S I T O R ’ S A S S O C I AT I O N
800-984-6743, crgva.org HOOD RIVER COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
541-386-2000, hoodriver.org ı JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a
regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
39
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:41 PM
Page 40
WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO
40
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:44 PM
Page 41
WINE COUNTRY DESTINATIONS
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
41
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:46 PM
Page 42
WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON
42
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:48 PM
Page 43
WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY
16425 SE Webfoot Rd., Dayton, Oregon (503) 868-7359 Open for tasting 12-5 weekends & by appt. weekdays
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
43
44-47 heymann.qxd
5/31/09
F E AT U R E
44
3:38 PM
Page 44
heymann
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
44-47 heymann.qxd
6/3/09
5:08 PM
Page 45
heymann
F E AT U R E
Brake for cranberry wine Stop at Heymann Whinery on your next trip through Centralia, Wash., to find fruit wine worth the detour BY ERIC DEGERMAN
CENTRALIA, Wash. — ach day on Interstate 5, thousands of wine lovers roll right through the largest town in Lewis County unaware they are less than a mile from tasting two of the finest wines made in the Northwest. More alarming is that some who arrive at Bob and Flossie Heymann’s tasting room leave just as ignorant, victimized by their own prejudiced palate. “We have people who come in, and go, ‘Oh, fruit wines,’ and just walk out of the store,” Flossie said. “We just look at them and smile. Everybody has their own tastes, but we do recognize that people look down their nose at the fruit wines.” These aren’t your vin ordinaire offerings, though. But then Heymann Whinery isn’t your typical winery. Yep, that’s “winery” with an “h.” Heymann Whinery’s NV Cranberry Wine captured a gold medal at the 2008 Capital Food and Wine Festival, gold at the 2008 Northwest Wine Summit, and then a double gold at the 2008 Wine Press Northwest Platinum Competition. It also was recommended on Northwest Public Radio last year as an ideal wine for the Thanksgiving table. “Occasionally, those people who don’t like fruit wines will take a
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON
E
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
taste, and they will admit they are good,” said Bob, the winemaker. This year, his 2008 crop of cranberries yielded another gold at the Capital festival. However, best of show at the Capital went to another fruit wine — the Heymann NV Apricot Wine. Both received “Outstanding!” ratings via blind judgings by Wine Press Northwest. (The reviews are available on Page 89). “There’s definitely a market for fruit wines,” said Flossie, who operates their downtown wine shop, which is open daily. “Even people who say they don’t like grape wine will taste the fruit wines and will walk away with at least a bottle. The fruit wines don’t have the tannin taste or the alcohol they associate
with the grape wines.” That would begin to explain the success the Heymanns are enjoying. They launched their winery in 2004 by producing 250 cases. Last year, production reached 800 cases, which includes their grape wines. He makes wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Riesling and Syrah. Sale of grape wines vs. fruit wines is about even, they said. “We have people come through and they always seem to like the grape wines, but they can get a Cabernet anywhere. They can’t always get a good apricot wine, though,” he said. They receive fruit from throughout Washington. The coastal town of Grayland produces the cranberries. Apricots and cherries come from Wapato. They drive to Burlington for the raspberries, blackberries and strawberries. “Some wineries use a Riesling base and then add fruit juice to it,” he said. “Not us. If it says ‘Cranberry,’ then it’s 100 percent cranberry. I don’t want people to pick up a glass of our wine and wonder, ‘What fruit is this?’ ” Wine judges and critics base much of their opinions of fruit wines upon the balance of sugar and acid. Bob seems to have that mastered.
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
45
44-47 heymann.qxd
6/3/09
F E AT U R E
5:09 PM
Page 46
heymann
Success making fruit wines, particularly cranberry, is no small feat, according to Gordon Taylor, winemaker for Daven Lore Winery in Prosser, Wash. A Canadian national, Taylor worked several years for Ocean Spray Cranberries, Inc. “Think of making wine from lemons and you get an idea of how acidic these little guys are,” Taylor said. “Even cranberry juice cocktail is only 27 percent juice from cranberry — 100 percent would rip your face off.” Heymann uses only water to dilute his cranberry juice. Most wineries use Riesling as the base. And it requires one pound of cranberries to produce a tablespoon of juice. He needs to add sugar just to keep the fermentation going. 1 “There are 1 ⁄2 pounds of cranberries in each bottle, and the fermentation is very slow because there is so much acidity,” Heymann said. “While it might take a week to ferment grapes, it will take a month to ferment cranberries.” There are other pitfalls to making the fruit wines. “Winemaking equipment is designed for grapes, so what I struggle with most is the filtering,” he said. “There’s a lot more sediment with the apricots and cranberries. Grape wine will settle out and clear so much faster than apricot. I can filter a grape wine once, where with apricot it takes three filterings.” The Heymanns continue to rely on Allen Devlin in Grayland for their cranberries, but this year they plan to use a fruit vendor for their other needs — which don’t include pears. “Pears don’t have a lot of flavor,” Bob said. “I’ve tried pear wine, and I didn’t care for it. We love to make a wine that you can get a lot of flavor from.” To achieve that, they buy their fruit frozen — except the apricots. “Most frozen fruit is easier to process than fresh,” he said. “And that way, we can make several batches throughout the year.” 46
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Bob Heymann serves up some cranberry wine.
That batch method means the Heymanns don’t offer vintage bottlings for their fruit wines, but it allows them to offer more vibrant
and fresh-tasting wines year-round. It’s a painstaking process, though. “We will have some help stoning the apricots this year,” Bob said.
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
44-47 heymann.qxd
6/1/09
12:32 PM
Page 47
heymann “Flossie and I spent 10 hours apiece removing the stones.” Flossie added, “There are 4,773 pits in 1,000 pounds of apricots. We saved them, counted them and had a contest in the store. It was amazing the guesses we had.” Stoning is another reason Bob prefers making wine from vinifera grapes, which he sources from Harold Pleasant in Flossie’s hometown of Prosser. And the Heymann 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon — his first commercial vintage — garnered an “Outstanding!” from Wine Press Northwest in 2008. His NV Raspberry Chardonnay earned a bronze medal at last year’s Capital judging. “I’m not that crazy about the sweeter wines, so I have Flossie taste those when I’m making them. We won’t release a wine that doesn’t have the Flossie seal of approval,” Bob said with a chuckle. There’s a lot of levity between the Heymanns when they discuss the many phases of their business. And that includes the name, which flummoxes computer spellcheckers. “It began as a joke, and I tell people we’re the only ones who spell it right,” Flossie said with a chuckle. “We came up with that label before we got our license. When we sent it in to the state, we sent it in with the ‘h’ crossed out because the crossedout h is really what we wanted.” Fortunately, the Heymann’s label ended up in the hands of a bureaucrat with a sense of humor. “They said it was unique and told us, ‘You should keep it. It’s cute,’ ” Flossie explained. “So the federal license at the house is the only one that does not have the ‘h’ in it. We had to get a second federal license because we are moving our shop and expanding our winery, and that federal license DOES have the ‘h’ in it.” Still, it’s a serious business relying on various factors to make it profitable. When they first opened, their grape wines weren’t available, and the fruit wines weren’t selling well, so their gift shop includes supplies for
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
those making beer and wine at home. He also teaches winemaking. “This isn’t the wine capital of the world over here,” Bob said with a chuckle. “You have to pull together everything you can to make ends meet, and there’s a lot of interest in the home winemaking and beermaking, and that part of the business seems to be growing.” Bob, 59, a production manager for a fiberglass and composite company during the week, looks forward to the day when he can focus all of his attention on the winery, play more golf and spend more than just weekends with his customers. “Nobody comes into a winery looking to have a bad time,” said Bob, who fled the Los Angeles rat race and embraced the Northwest in 1970 after being stationed at Fort Lewis. Flossie runs the day-to-day operations after retiring as director of custodial and grounds at Centralia Community College. “I traded a 9-to-5 job for a 24-7 job with no paycheck,” Flossie chuckled. “We’re not taking any trips to Italy just yet.” This spring, they moved to the next block, stepping up to a location with two storefronts and improved production facilities. “We will be transferring wine from our home in the next month, so our neighbors in Chehalis will be excited,” Bob deadpanned. “The wines have been in a 13-foot by 25-foot space that most people call a garage, but it’s never had a car in it.” Their wines are available at a few restaurants in Centralia and Olympia as well as liquor stores in Chehalis and Tumwater, but 90 percent of their sales occur in their tasting room. That’s where the profit is. “My whole theory has been to not overload ourselves,” he said. “Friends and customers give us a bad time constantly because we keep moving our store, but at least what we’ve got is paid for.” The Heymanns also get teased about their homespun label.
F E AT U R E
“We talk about making changes, but we went back to this,” he said. “We thought of putting caricatures of us or some animal or something else on the label, but we’re trying to personalize it. And how much more personal can you get if you put your picture on it?” Life got deadly serious at their retail store this past January as the Heymanns feared they’d lose their business to the flooding Skookumchuck River. “We sandbagged the front and back of the winery and spent most parts of two or three nights waiting for the water,” Flossie recalled. Bob added, “The Skookumchuck went the other direction. We lucked out. Others did not.” This spring, they celebrated the third annual Chehalis Valley Wine Tour, which includes Centralia, Chehalis, Onalaska and Tenino and features Birchfield, Scatter Creek, Weatherwax, Wells and Widgeon Hill wineries. “Most people don’t realize there are six local wineries, and we were the third one,” Flossie said. Fans of Heymann Whinery have something new to look forward to in 2010. Bob will make a commercial strawberry wine for the first time, but the process will be akin to that of overcoming a “hair of the dog that bit you” experience. “In Germany, I overindulged on strawberry wine,” Bob admitted. “I was 17 years old and drank anything they put in front of me. I’ve made it since then, but I always gave it away because of what happened to me in Germany.” If it passes Flossie’s taste test, then the strawberry wine figures to be as good as gold, too. Heymann Whinery, 212 N. Tower Ave., Centrailia, Wash., 98531, 360-623-1106, www.heymannwhinery.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s
managing editor. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a
regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
47
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:51 PM
Page 48
WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY A Welcome Taste of Spring! We look forward to your visit
Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM 33 West Birch Street • Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463
We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.
Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com
Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com
48
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:54 PM
Page 49
WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY
Tamarack Cellars Come visit us at the Historic WWII Firehouse in Walla Walla’s airport complex. 700 C St. Walla Walla, WA
840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both.
Hours: Mar.-Nov. Thurs. & Fri. 12-4 Sat. & Sun. 10-4
Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt
509-526-3533 www.tamarackcellars.com
509-527-8400 www.fivestarcellars.com
Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com
New Releases: '06 WWV “Vineyard Select” Cabernet Sauvignon ‘07 WWV Merlot ‘07 CV Cabernet Franc ‘07 CV Sangiovese
Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc
Est. 1988 Friday 1 - 5 pm • Saturday 12 - 5 pm Sunday 1 - 4 pm
124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla
509-526-0676
We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.
Amavi Cellars
635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362
509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
49
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:56 PM
Page 50
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
2:58 PM
Page 51
WINE COUNTRY: PROSSER
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
51
52-57 roses.qxd
6/1/09
12:39 PM
Page 52
Proud to be pink Seriously tasty summer sippers BY ANDY PERDUE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON
P
erhaps one of the most perfect of summer wines is rosé. A chilled dry rosé is a wonderful accompaniment to summertime foods and is light and bright enough for many occasions. Unfortunately, wine consumers have a love-hate relationship with rosés, partly because of the sweet, insipid blush wines that have come out of California in alarming quantities over the past two decades. Thus, pink wines are looked upon as less than serious.
52
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Fortunately, many Pacific Northwest wineries have begun to focus efforts on crafting high-quality rosés that are seriously delicious. For this judging, Wine Press Northwest collected 66 rosés from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Of these, 47 made the cut and six earned our top “Outstanding” rating. It might come as no surprise that Barnard Griffin of Richland, Wash., led the pack as the top wine of this competition, since winemaker Rob
Griffin’s rosé of Sangiovese has earned high acclaim in judgings across the country during the seven years he has produced it. “There is an assumption that all the art is in making red wine,” said Griffin, who came to Washington from California in the 1977. “That’s B.S. You have to have a white wine mentality to make a good rosé. From my perspective, you have to have a concept and follow it.” In his case, Griffin has developed a careful plan. First comes the grape. He believes the best use for Washington Sangiovese is rosé. And through the years, he and grower Maury Balcom have slowly increased the crop load so the grapes will hang longer and develop more interesting flavors without losing acidity or ripening too quickly. In fact, they cap the Sangiovese at eight tons per
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
52-57 roses.qxd
6/1/09
12:40 PM
Page 53
acre and let it hang through the middle of October. “It is not for the uninitiated to try,” Griffin said with a laugh. “We’ve carefully dialed this up over the years. It’s all about balance.” Our judges for this competition were: Parks Redwine, owner of the Northwest Wine Summit, our region’s largest wine competition; Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling, director of Washington State University’s viticulture and enology program; Dr. Wade Wolfe, owner/winemaker of Thurston Wolfe in Prosser, Wash.; Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor; Coke Roth, an international wine judge who lives in Richland, Wash.; and Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist. The judging was conducted at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
The results:
OUTSTANDING Best Buy! Barnard Griffin Winery $13 2008 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This tremendous rosé from one of the Northwest’s finest producers uses grapes from longtime grower Maury Balcom’s vineyard, with just a bit of Grenache blended in. For the past few years, winemaker Rob Griffin’s rosé has consistently earned top medals in competitions across North America, so it’s no surprise this stood out in our judging. Its gorgeous colors lead to inviting aromas of Rainier cherries and cranberries, followed by tart flavors of lush fruit. Just a touch of tannin provides texture to this amazing wine, which is dry at 0.4% residual sugar. (12.5% alc., 4,500 cases) Best Buy! Abacela Vineyards & Winery $14 2008 Rosado, Southern Oregon Winemaker Andrew Wenzl’s first release as head winemaker of this Umpqua Valley winery is nothing short of a stunning achievement and speaks well of his future. This rosé is primarily Garnacha (75%), with Tempranillo (18%) and Mourvèdre in the mix. It offers opulent aromas of cherries, red currants and raspberries, which give way to bright, ripe flavors of cherries and other red fruits. It has a bit of tannin, which provides nice structure for pairing with barbecued chicken or spicy shrimp. (13.8% alc., 258 cases)
W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy A wine that is $15 U.S. or $17 Canadian and under. Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. CDN: Canadian dollars.
Best Buy! Stoneboat Vineyards $17 CDN 2008 Faux Pas Rosé, Okanagan Valley The Martiniuk family bought an orchard in the South Okanagan Valley in 1979 and began converting it to wine grapes a half-decade later. Those grapes were
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
53
52-57 roses.qxd
6/1/09
12:41 PM
TA S T I N G R E S U LT S
Page 54
rosés
sold to surrounding wineries until 2005, when the family decided to launch Stoneboat Vineyards, named for a contraption that was used to move stones out of the way. The wine is a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and reveals gorgeous aromas of citrus, grapefruit and a hint of cherries. On the palate are flavors of pie cherries and pink grapefruit, all backed up with beautiful balance. Enjoy this with salmon, halibut or chicken salad. (13.6% alc., 120 cases) Hogue Cellars $18 2008 Terroir Series Zephyr Ridge Sangiovese Rosato, Horse Heaven Hills The Yakima Valley’s largest winery gets small with its Terroir Series wines, giving Hogue’s winemaking team the opportunity to experiment with wines that won’t be made in mass quantities. These wines generally are available only in the tasting room. This gorgeous rosé uses grapes from one of the Horse Heaven Hills’ top vineyards and shows off beautiful color with aromas of cranberries and cherries. On the palate are slightly tart flavors of wild strawberries perfectly balanced with bright acidity. (12.7% alc., 134 cases) Best Buy! Greata Ranch Estate Winery $14 CDN 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley This label and vineyard are owned and operated by CedarCreek Estate Winery in Kelowna, B.C. The vineyard and tasting room are just south of Peachland in the central Okanagan. The property was established more than a century ago as a peach orchard, and wine grapes were planted in 1996. It’s a gorgeous wine with reddish-purple tones that reveal aromas of ruby red grapefruit and hedonistic flavors of citrus and cherries. It’s wonderfully balanced and will pair well with shellfish, barbecued ribs or a pasta salad. (12.5% alc., 278 cases) Pêntage Winery $19 CDN 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley This winery just south of Penticton, B.C., continues to impress us with one superb release after another. Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie launched the winery in 1996, with 17 acres of vines planted since 1997. This rosé of Gamay Noir release marks the debut of winemaker Adam Pearce, an Ontario native who learned his craft in Australia and Europe. It’s an amazing effort, with aromas and flavors of cranberries and black cherries, all balanced with persistent acidity. Pair this with chicken, pasta with a puttanesca sauce or grilled salmon. (12.5% alc., 130 cases)
EXCELLENT Best Buy! Whidbey Island Winery $12 2008 Rosato, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Greg Osenbach tends his own vines on his property near Langley, Wash., and also brings grapes over the Cascades from famed Crawford Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. This wine is a blend of Sangiovese (68%) and Lemberger and shows off aromas of pie cherries and ripe raspberries. On the palate are more cherries and a hint of lingonberries. It’s dry, tart and beautifully balanced and should pair well with barbecued meats or lighter picnic dishes. (13% alc., 100 cases) Road 13 $18 CDN 2008 Honest John’s Rosé, Okanagan Valley For years, one of the first wineries U.S. visitors would encounter when they crossed the border into the Okanagan Valley was Golden Mile Cellars. Under the new ownership of Mick and Pam Luckhurst, this operation has a new name — and new attitude. This rosé is primarily Pinot Noir,
54
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
with a bit of Syrah (6%) blended in. It reveals aromas of pie cherries and flavors of juicy red fruit backed with nice levels of tartness. Beautiful acidity provides balance and length. (12.5% alc., 180 cases) Blasted Church Vineyards $18 CDN 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley Blasted Church near Okanagan Falls, helped kick off the trend in B.C. of creating crazy names for wineries and wines, though this operation backed it up with some fascinating local history that involved a church that was literally blown off its foundation so it could be moved. This rosé had our judges moving in the right direction, too. It’s a blend of Syrah, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier and provides charming aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and just-out-of-the-oven cherry pie. (12.7% alc., 416 cases) Best Buy! Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $15 CDN 2008 Rosé, Okanagan Valley Famed for its versatility, Jackson-Triggs has developed into one of the Okanagan Valley’s largest and finest producers. This rosé is primarily Cabernet Franc, though it has a bit of Syrah and Gewürztraminer blended in for balance and complexity. It’s a fascinating wine with aromas of tart berries and flavors of strawberries, cherries and dried cranberries without a trace of bitterness. (13.5% alc., 400 cases) Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards
$16
2008 Pinot Noir Rosé, Chelan County Washington’s newest appellation (Lake Chelan AVA) could end up being the state’s answer to the oftasked question of where to grow Pinot Noir. This rosé from the winery formerly known as Balsamroot uses grapes from the Cortelli Vineyard on Lake Chelan’s south shore. It provides pleasant aromas of cherries and violets and flavors of raspberries and cherries. At 1.1% residual sugar, it shows off just the slightest bit of sweetness, though that is nicely balanced with ample fruit and bright acidity. (13.8% alc., 100 cases) Airfield Estate $16 2008 Foot-Stomped Rosé, Yakima Valley Named for the old-fashioned method by which the grapes were crushed (by the Prosser, Wash., winery’s customers, no less), this rosé is a blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache. Its high alcohol is tempered by bright fruit, including aromas and flavors of marionberries, and solid acidity. We’d suggest pairing this wine with spicy South Indian dishes or perhaps souvlaki. (16% alc., 359 cases) Best Buy! Indian Creek Winery $8 2008 White Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Owner Bill Stowe came up with this off-dry pink wine in 1988, back when the Idaho wine industry was little more than a footnote in the Gem State — and little wine was being drunk there. This rosé of Pinot Noir has been Indian Creek’s best seller since. It’s easy to see why. It reveals aromas and flavors of
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
52-57 roses.qxd
6/1/09
12:41 PM
Page 55
rosés
TA S T I N G R E S U LT S
grapefruit and Rainier cherries, followed by flavors of cherries and cranberries. Bright acidity and moderate alcohol make this a great summer sipper. (12.5% alc., 300 cases) Best Buy! Kestrel Vintners $12 2008 Falcon Series Rosé, Yakima Valley This Prosser, Wash., winery has made rosé for five vintages now, and the wines are consistently delicious. This uses grapes from a variety of nearby Yakima Valley vineyards and is a proprietary blend that shows off beautiful, classic color. It provides aromas and flavors of cherries and is beautifully balanced. Enjoy with lighter Italian dishes or spicy Mexican or Thai. (13.4% alc., 537 cases) Best Buy! Claar Cellars $13 NV White Bluffs Busty Blush Rosé, Columbia Valley Though this is labeled as a nonvintage wine, the grapes for this Sangiovese rosé came from the 2008 vintage, all from the estate White Bluffs Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River. It opens with lovely aromas of apples and limes, followed by flavors of cranberries and red cherries. A portion of the proceeds for this wine is donated to the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center to support breast cancer research, hence the name. (12% alc., 100 cases) Ponzi Vineyards $17 2008 Rosato, Willamette Valley Our 2009 Oregon Winery of the Year has crafted a rosé made from Pinot Noir grown on 40-year-old vines in the Willamette Valley. It opens with aromas of Pink Lady apples, cherries and rhubarb, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and a hint of lavender. Enjoy this with barbecued chicken or a vegetarian lasagna. (13.25% alc., 487 cases)
rhubarb sauce along with bright cherries. At 2.5% residual sugar, it has plenty of sweetness, but this isn’t just some clone of California Kool-Aid, as it is beautifully balanced with ample fruit and bright acidity. (12.8% alc., 600 cases) Best Buy! See Ya Later Ranch $17 CDN 2008 Nelly Rosé, Okanagan Valley The winery formerly known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards honors Hugh Fraser, a local character who lived on the property for many years and dearly loved his dogs. This blend of Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc and Gewürztraminer is named after one of Major Fraser’s beloved dogs. It is loaded with aromas of Bing cherries and shows off a hint of sweetness, which makes it a perfect pairing for barbecued ribs. (14% alc., 1,000 cases) Best Buy! Jones of Washington $14 2008 Rosé of Syrah, Columbia Valley The Jones family runs top vineyards on Washington’s Wahluke Slope and launched its winery in the Columbia Basin town of Quincy to take advantage of its highly regarded grapes. This lovely pink wine comes from estate vineyards on the Wahluke Slope and Columbia Valley and shows off vibrant aromas that are distinctly Syrahlike. A blast of luscious plums and blackberries glides across the palate. Gorgeous texture provides ample structure. (13.5% alc., 134 cases) Best Buy!
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
Sawtooth Estate Winery $14 2008 Rosé, Snake River Valley New winemaker Bill Murray crafted the rosé for this longtime Snake River Valley winery using fruit from the estate Sawtooth Vineyard. It is a blend of Syrah (50%) and equal parts Merlot and Muscat Blanc. That latter grape explains the pronounced and elegant orange and lime aromas, which meld alongside hints of plums and vanilla. On the palate are balanced flavors of citrus and ripe plums. It’s a full-bodied rosé with nice mouth weight that would pair well with barbecued ribs. (14.5% alc., 160 cases) Adelsheim Vineyard $19 2008 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This Oregon pioneer began producing a Pinot Noir rosé in 2005 on the suggestion of co-owners Lynn and Jack Loacker. The grapes come from a variety of vineyards in the Willamette Valley, and a bit of the wine is even fermented in neutral French oak for greater texture. It offers aromas of raspberries, rhubarb and oranges, followed by crisp, clean flavors of peaches and rhubarb-cherry pie. (13.3% alc., 521 cases) Maysara Winery $16 2008 Roseena Pinot Noir Rosé, McMinnville McMinnville is perhaps the least-understood AVA in the northern Willamette Valley because it shares a name with a city that is not within the appellation. But Moe Montazi understands the hilly region well and is a major grower with more than 200 acres of vines. This rosé is superb from first whiff through the elegant finish. It opens with aromas of rhubarb,
Syncline Wine Cellars $16 2008 Rosé, Columbia Valley James and Poppie Mantone have established their winery as one of the top producers in the Columbia River Gorge. This rosé is a fascinating Southern Rhône-style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Counoise, four varieties that are generally out of the mainstream for most wine lovers. The result is a gorgeous wine with aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries and red currants, all backed with elegant acidity and plenty of length. (13.8% alc., 610 cases) Best Buy! A to Z Wineworks $12 2008 Rosé, Oregon Former Domaine Drouhin Oregon GM Bill Hatcher now runs A to Z, Oregon’s largest winery. This wine is 100% Sangiovese, perhaps a bit surprising for an Oregon wine except that the grapes come from highly touted Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley. It provides aromas of dark cherries, followed by flavors of red plums and cherries. This is a fruit-laden wine that also shows off ample acidity. (13.5% alc., 2,236 cases) Best Buy! Maryhill Winery $13 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley We’ve come to expect great things from our 2009 Washington Winery of the Year, especially with rosé. The 2006 version of this wine earned a rare Double Platinum in our 2007 year-end best-of-the-best competition. This vintage is no slouch, thanks to aromas of ripe raspberries and flavors of cherries and hints of cranberries. Pair this wine with light summer dishes or enjoy on its own in a hot tub. (14.5% alc., 1,406 cases) Stoller Vineyards $17 2008 Pinot Noir Rosé, Dundee Hills Bill and Cathy Stoller teamed up with longtime wine grower Harry Peterson-Nedry to create this winery in
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
55
52-57 roses.qxd
6/1/09
12:42 PM
TA S T I N G R E S U LT S
Page 56
rosés
Oregon’s famed Dundee Hills. Melissa Burr has overseen winemaking here since 2003 and has crafted a luscious rosé with aromas of oranges and strawberries. On the palate are flavors of raspberries and cherries backed with bright acidity. (14.3% alc., 350 cases) Best Buy! Firesteed Cellars $13 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé, Oregon For a decade, Firesteed was known as a “virtual winery” because its wines were produced by others and it didn’t have a facility of its own. This changed when the Seattlebased company purchased Flynn Winery near Salem, Ore. (where most of the wines were being made). This affordable rosé is loaded with fruit, including cherries on the nose and strawberries and raspberries on the palate. It’s a nicely balanced wine that will pair with a wide variety of dishes, including shellfish, chicken or Asian-inspired cuisine. (13.2% alc., 600 cases) Best Buy! Sumac Ridge Estate Winery $14 CDN 2008 Private Reserve Rosé, Okanagan Valley Our 2003 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year continues to shine as one of the must-visit producers in the Okanagan Valley. This rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir, Ehrenfelser and Gamay Noir. It reveals aromas of red grapefruit and cherries, followed by luscious flavors of raspberries. This wine should have broad appeal and will pair well with everything from chicken salad to roast turkey. (13% alc.)
RECOMMENDED San Juan Vineyards $17 2008 Afterglow, Washington This is one of the rarest wines you’ll find in Washington because it blends fruit from both sides of the Cascade Mountains. This Friday Harbor producer used 63% Madeleine Angevine from its estate vineyards with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese from the Columbia and Yakima Valleys. The result is a wine with aromas of starfruit and orange zest, followed by flavors of cranberries, pie cherries and rhubarb. (12.7% alc., 192 cases) Masset Winery $17 2008 Rosato, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Greg Masset gained fame first for his abilities in the kitchen (he’s the executive chef at the Yakima Country Club) but is earning a reputation in the Yakima Valley for his wines, as well. This bright rosé provides hints of apples in the aromas and flavors, as well as notes of cranberries. This is an easy-to-like wine that will pair with everything from mild cheeses to barbecued ribs. (13% alc., 62 cases) Best Buy! Yellow Hawk Cellar $12 2008 Rosato, Columbia Valley This small producer in the Walla Walla Valley used Lemberger from famed Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft a delicous rosé. It bursts with aromas and flavors of citrus and berries, all backed with firm acidity. (13.9% alc., 91 cases) Gray Monk Estate Winery $27 CDN NV Odyssey Rosé Brut, Okanagan Valley This longtime B.C. winery has crafted a tasty sparkling rosé made in the dry style. It is a blend of Gamay Noir and Pinot Meunier (a traditional Champagne variety) that shows off tart crispness, hints of cherries and melons and is downright delicious. (12.4% alc., 220 cases) Westport Winery $24 NV Bog Berry Blush, Washington Washington’s
56
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
only coastal winery is in the town of Aberdeen. This is a white wine infused with cranberries and is a real sweetie at 13% residual sugar. It’s an enjoyable sipper with unmistakable aromas and flavors of cranberries and raspberries. Chill a bottle of this and head to the beach. (11% alc., 233 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $16 2008 Gamay Noir Rosé, Oregon This winery near Newberg, Ore., is so named because it shares its 27acre property with hawks, owls and kestrels. This rosé of Gamay Noir boasts cherries and raspberries on the aromas and cranberries, wild plums and strawberries on the palate. It’s deliciously tart and would be perfect with summer barbecues. (12.5% alc., 63 cases) 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards $16 2008 Reserve Rosé, Snake River Valley This young producer in Eagle, Idaho, uses certified organic grapes from estate vineyards, and the wines are crafted by longtime Idaho winemaker Greg Koenig. This wine is a blend of Merlot (82%) and Grenache and provides aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and rosewater. (13.2% alc., 445 cases) Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle $10 2007 Nellie’s Garden Dry Rosé, Columbia Valley This Syrah-based rosé (with 2% Grenache) was a collaboration of Ste. Michelle’s red and white winemaking teams. It is an elegant wine with aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and plenty of acidity backing up the ample fruit. It should pair well with smoked salmon or pasta salad. (13% alc., 22,000 cases) Best Buy! Patterson Cellars $15 2008 Rosé, Washington Longtime winemaker John Patterson owns and operates this winery in Woodinville, Wash., with his father, Jack. This rosé is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc and shows off aromas and flavors of plums and blackberries with hints of smoke and black olives. (13.9% alc., 56 cases)
leave one with the impression that the wines are not seriously good. This rosé comes in a magnum and is a blend of Muscat Canelli and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s quite sweet at 8.4% residual sugar and is loaded with fruit. (11.9% alc., 1,400 cases) Best Buy! Camas Prairie Winery $12 2008 Sarah’s Blush, Washington Owner/winemaker Stu Scott produced this luscious rosé using Lemberger grapes from famed Champoux Vineyards in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills. It’s loaded with aromas and flavors of cranberries, cherries and hints of rhubarb. (12.6% alc., 140 cases) Best Buy! Tucker Cellars $9 NV Indian Summer Pinot Noir, Yakima Valley This longtime winery in the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside uses estate fruit for this somewhat rare Washington Pinot Noir rosé. It is true to form with aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries and hints of wild strawberries. (12% alc., 600 cases) Best Buy! Davis Creek Cellars $10 2008 Skyline Vineyard Rosé of Syrah, Snake River Valley Winemaker Gina Davis worked at some of Idaho’s top wineries before stepping out on her own. This rosé uses grapes from one of the Snake River Valley’s most important vineyards and shows off aromas and flavors of cherries and raspberries. It’s a delicious, well-balanced wine. (14.9% alc., 43 cases) Folin Cellars $20 2008 Tempranillo Rosé, Rogue Valley This young producer from Southern Oregon focuses much of its energy on producing wines using Tempranillo. This rare rosé offers aromas and flavors of lingonberries with hints of chocolate. (13.5% alc., 75 cases)
Cave B Estate Winery $18 2008 Saignée, Columbia Valley Winemaker Freddy Arredondo crafted the rosé for this George, Wash., winery using Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a fascinating wine with aromas and flavors of pomegranates and red currants. Enjoy this with roasted duck or turkey or a plate of mild cheeses. (12.9% alc., 276 cases)
Best Buy! Thornhaven Estates $17 CDN 2007 Rosé, Okanagan Valley This winery near Summerland, B.C., has crafted a rosé from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot and Orange Muscat. It is off-dry at 1.5% residual sugar and shows off aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries and hints of rosewater. (12.4% alc., 193 cases)
Page Cellars $17 2008 Rose-eh, Columbia Valley Owner Jim Page used fruit from famed Red Mountain for this rosé, which is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s a darker-hued rosé with aromas and flavors of blackberries and boysenberries. It’s a fairly big wine with plenty of acidity backing up the ample fruit. (14.1% alc., 56 cases)
Best Buy! Townshend Cellar $15 NV T3R, Columbia Valley This Spokane, Wash., winery blended Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc to produce a rosé with bright aromas and flavors of fresh Rainier cherries and hints of cranberries. (13% alc., 350 cases)
Best Buy! St. Hubertus Estate Winery $15 CDN 2008 Frizzante Rosé, Okanagan Valley Winemaking brothers Andy and Leo Gebert have rebuilt their Kelowna, B.C., winery after losing it to a massive wildfire in 2003. This rose provides aromas and flavors of cherries, rhubarb and citrus, and its bright acidity leads to a lingering finish. (12% alc., 579 cases)
Best Buy! Gray Monk Estate Winery $16 CDN 2007 Rotberger Rosé, Okanagan Valley Rotberger is a rare grape variety developed in Germany in the 1920s. The Heiss family grows the grapes for its rosé, and the resulting wine is bright and delicious, revealing aromas and flavors of raspberries. (11.9% alc., 860 cases)
Best Buy! Maison de Padgett Winery $15 NV Lip Service Rosé, Rattlesnake Hills Owner/winemaker David Padgett will never be accused of not having fun. His whimsically named wines (and equally fascinating labels) should not
ı
AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a
regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
52-57 roses.qxd
6/1/09
12:42 PM
Page 57
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:01 PM
Page 58
WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER
LAKE CHELAN
Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection. Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA
509-548-1213
509-662-5013
www.viscontis.com
Visit our winery overlooking the Columbia! 3400 10th St. SE, East Wenatchee, WA 98802
509-886-4596 Open Thurs., Fri., & Sat. 12-5 & holiday weekends Tours by appointment www.martinscottwinery.com chris.scott@martinscottwinery.com
58
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:03 PM
Page 59
WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
59
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:05 PM
Page 60
WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA
60
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:07 PM
Page 61
WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON
O•S Winery
Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines Located in South Seattle Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.oswinery.com
San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA
360-378-WINE Summer hours: Open Daily 11 - 5 Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com
121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.
360-748-0432 • www.widgeonhill.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
61
62-67 matchmakers.qxd
5/31/09
4:27 PM
Page 62
M AT C H M A K E R S Manila clams with Controne beans, mint and Serrano ham paired with Abacela Vineyards & Winery’s 2008 Albariño.
62
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G
62-67 matchmakers.qxd
6/3/09
5:11 PM
Page 63
M AT C H M A K E R S
Mindful eating, soulful sipping Northwest chefs match gluten-free seafood dishes with Abacela’s Albariño BY LEAH JORGENSEN
N
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON
ot long ago if you had celiac disease — an autoimmune disorder triggered by the ingestion of gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley and rye — or were vegan or plagued by major food restrictions, you were doomed at the table when it came to dining out. So, unless you sought out establishments that guaranteed glutenfree or vegan fare, you weren’t hitting the fine dining or foodie destinations. These days, however, especially in the Northwest, chefs are selective about their food. They are mindful about their ingredients. They are choosey about where it all comes from. And they are accommodating to those with restricted diets. Since I suffer from celiac disease, I wanted to showcase how easy it is to patronize two fine-dining establishments in the Northwest that while not billed as gluten-free, have been found to be especially gluten-free friendly.
UNION S E AT T L E , WA S H .
TWO INGREDIENTS REQUIRED TO run four restaurants in a bustling dining destination such as Seattle — a heaping help-
ing of energy and nimble transportation. Chef Ethan Stowell has both. He’s a man on the move, thanks in part to his sleek gray Vespa. On this day, Stowell played tour guide to Pike Place Market as he picked up mint from one of his usual vendors, as well as prosciutto from DeLaurenti Specialty Food. Just around the corner is his first restaurant, Union. Across the street is the Seattle Art Museum. “Back when I was working as a sous chef, I did some catering on the side to develop a fan base,” Stowell said. “I was working seven days a week. I did weddings and other big events, but I also got to do smaller, more intimate dinner parties. “That’s when a client, who happened to own the building that Union is in, approached me about opening my restaurant in their space.” Call him a man of good fortune and brilliant timing, but when you step into one of Stowell's restaurants, it is evident that this young man is one of the hardest-working restaurateurs in the Northwest. He furiously launched three restaurants within five years — Union,
➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G
WINE Abacela Vineyards & Winery $18 2008 Albariño, Southern Oregon —1,106 cases produced, 13.3% alcohol ach issue, Wine Press Northwest sends wine to two chefs with a passion for our region's wines. The chefs are asked to match a recipe to the selected wine. This wine — guarded by a screwcap — comes on the heels of the 2007 vintage, which we awarded a Double Gold in our Platinum Judging. The spring release of the 2008 Albariño already has received acclaim with a gold medal from the 2009 Pacific Rim Wine Competition, and it was a finalist in the 2009 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition. Abacela’s owners, Earl and Hilda Jones, who travel often to Spain, were inspired to grow Albariño after a visit to the coastal region of Galicia. “We were fascinated with Albariño and what a great seafood wine it is,” Earl said. “I later learned there was a nursery in California that could get Albariño cuttings. I bought them on the spot.” Abacela became the third vineyard in the United States to produce Albariño. “We ordered the vines in 1999,” Jones said. “We harvested our first vintage in 2002.” Their bottlings soon received recognition. Jancis Robinson, the famed British wine critic, selected Abacela’s 2004 Albariño as a “wine of the week” in 2005. Abacela’s Albariño was planted on the north side of their Cobblestone Hill Vineyard, out of the direct summer sun, as it gets too hot in Southern Oregon for south-side planting. This slope happens to flank a fault line, which Jones proudly points out as a geological phenomenon on his Umpqua Valley property. “We were pleasantly surprised with the quality of our first wine,” he said. “So, we continued with extension blocks in 2003, and we planted more this year so that we now have about nine acres of Albariño in the ground to produce about 1,200 cases.” The 2008 Albariño — crafted by winemaker Andrew Wenzl — has bracing acidity and delicate floral notes. It’s rich with flavors of honey and stone fruits. The wine sees no oak and finishes with a distinct minerality that showcases the vineyard’s geology. The 2008 vintage marked Wenzl’s first crush as Abacela’s head winemaker.
E
Abacela Vineyards & Winery, 12500 Lookingglass Road, Roseburg, Ore., 97471, 541-679-6642, abacela.com
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
63
62-67 matchmakers.qxd
5/31/09
4:30 PM
Page 64
M AT C H M A K E R S Tavolàta and then How to Cook a Wolf. Last winter, he opened his fourth, Anchovies & Olives. There’s substance and skill to his endeavors. In Chef Ethan Stowell of 2008, Stowell was Union Restaurant named one of buys jamón Serrano, Food & Wine a dry-cured Spanish Magazine’s Best ham that’s similar to Italian prosciutto, at New Chefs in DeLaurenti Specialty America, and he Food & Wine at Pike received a James Place Market to use Beard Award nomin his recipe. ination for Best Chef in the “The accolades are good for the Northwest. restaurant, and they’re good for the This year, he merited another ego, but you have to work even James Beard nomination. harder because there are no guarantees that you will continue to RECIPE receive the acclaim down the road,” Manila Clams with Controne Beans, he said. Mint and Serrano Ham Serves 4 Stowell is self-taught and credits the family kitchen as his place of 2 tablespoons. extra-virgin olive oil learning. He grew up following his 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced father to farmers markets. He owns 2 pounds Manila clams more than 600 cookbooks, and he 2 cups cooked Controne beans swears he’s read each of them cover 1 cup white wine to cover. 1 lemon Formal training began with The 12 large mint leaves, roughly chopped 3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped Ruins catering company in Queen 8 paper-thin slices serrano ham, diced Anne. He then took at job in Atlanta into squares at Seeger’s for a year. When he returned to Seattle, he was a sous In a high-sided sauté pan, heat the chef at Nell’s and then The Painted olive oil over medium-high. Add garlic Table at the Alexis Hotel. and sauté until soft but not brown, He targets simple flavors and fresh about two minutes. Add clams, beans, ingredients. His menu changes daily. and wine. Cover. Steam until clams just “Union is mostly about fresh vegopen, about 2-3 minutes. etables and fish, making it clean, and Halve the lemon and squeeze the eliminating the junk you’re not supjuice over the clams and beans. Add posed to eat,” Stowell said. “We herbs, toss, and check for seasoning. don’t do a lot of cream, butter or (Because of the clams, the dish probapreservatives. We have a farm-tobly won’t need any extra salt.) table approach, with minimal hanWhile still hot, pour out onto a platdling.” ter and sprinkle with ham. Serve. All of his restaurants feature an Note: You can use prosciutto if you Italian theme, but Union is the only can’t find serrano ham. If you have trouble finding the no-soak Controne one that showcases Northwest beans, Seattle importer, Ritrovo, carries wines. them online at ritrovo.com. “The list has a nice representation 64
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
of Oregon Pinot Noir, mostly designated from the larger Willamette Valley,” he said. “It pairs perfectly with our food. Union offers multiple courses and the Pinots offer flexibility. The wines we have from Washington reflect people we really like and respect.” Those wineries include the likes of Beresan, Cadence, DeLille, Dunham, K Vintners, Mark Ryan, Syncline and Tamarack. There’s an excellent selection from Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Walla Walla, in addition to the larger Yakima and Columbia valleys. When Stowell evaluated the Abacela 2008 Albariño, he spoke of the grape variety’s origins with regards to his gluten-free meeting of Manila Clams with Controne Beans, mint and Serrano ham. “I don’t try to pick apart the most subtle nuances of the wine,” he said. “Instead, I turn to history and place. Albariño is a minerally, lean wine from Spain. Naturally, Serrano ham, clams and mussels are regional, traditional foods that would pair exceptionally well.” When it comes to serving patrons with food restrictions, Stowell said, Union is always happy to accommodate. “The menu is continually in flow; it’s always changing, so it's easy for
➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G
62-67 matchmakers.qxd
5/31/09
4:31 PM
Page 65
M AT C H M A K E R S us to adapt our cooking for guests that have special requests or needs,” he said. So is there a fifth restaurant is Stowell’s future? Not exactly, but he’s working on a cookbook and plans to distribute a line of signature pasta. “Mostly, I’m trying to keep things as simple as possible,” he said. Union, 1400 First Ave., Seattle, WA 98101, 206-838-8000, www.unionseattle.com.
PALEY ’S PLACE BISTRO & BAR P O RT L A N D
VITALY AND KIMBERLY PALEY spent several years working in France. When they returned home to the United States, they sought a similar environment and lifestyle. They came to find what winemakers already discovered — there’s a lot of Burgundy in the Willamette Valley. The Paleys’ love and respect of their adopted home shows with the genuine hospitality they deliver to guests the moment they enter their Portland bistro. The Paleys combine that joie de vive with a signature culinary experience matched with a wine list that spotlights producers from Oregon and Washington. The couple opened Paley’s Place Bistro & Bar in 1995, and from the start, they have been instrumental in the region’s local, organic, seasonal and sustainable food movement. “Back when we worked in France in the early ’90s, we were cooking from the source, from what was available in the region, with what’s right in front of you,” Vitaly explained. “This was deeply ingrained in us when we returned to the States — to remain close to the source.” Just where they would settle after returning was uncertain. A vacation took them through Oregon, and
they knew immediately where they Before the Paleys arrived in wanted to be. Portland, their New York restaurant “We put up our apartment in New friends advised them to get a feeling York City and within three days it for their new city. Learn when peosold!” Kimberly said. “We packed the ple eat. When the peak times were. few belongings we had and headed How long Portlanders would be willnorthwest. At the time, we weren’t ing to wait for a table. sure if we would land in Ashland or So, while Vitaly learned from local on the coast. But, when we discovpurveyors in David Machado’s ered the Willamette Valley was so kitchen at Pazzo Ristorante, close to Portland, we felt it was simiKimberly chose the front of the lar to Burgundy. Portland was the house at Cory Schreiber’s famed definitive place.” Wildwood Restaurant. As wine director, Kimberly relishes “Working the front door allowed her bonds with neighboring wineme to get a real sense of makers and grape growers. Portlanders,” she noted. “My relationships with the wineThe early relationships the Paleys makers drive the wine list,” she said. made with those in the local food Paley’s wine list is heavy on the and wine scene has been critical and local selections. You’ll always see some of the Vitaly Paley, classics such as Adelsheim, owner and head Chehalem, Bethel Heights, chef of Paley’s Cristom and Abacela, but Place in Portland. Kimberly also features the likes of Dominio IV, J. Christopher, Marchesi and Matello. “I like the food-friendliness of the wines from the Northwest, especially those coming from our back yard,” she said. “There is a sense of place now that Oregon has achieved for making wine. You taste the Pinots and you know they are from Oregon.” Kimberly prides herself on a wine list that is approachable, food-friendly and harmonious with her husband’s menu changes. She also regards the importance of a good value, and she wants her guests to have choices. “We have something for everyone — buttery wines, New World, fruit-forward, Old World, lean, tannic — my list is all over the map in terms of profile.”
➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
65
62-67 matchmakers.qxd
5/31/09
4:32 PM
Page 66
M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Poppy Seed-Crusted Albacore Tuna with Chickpea Puree and Fennel Salad Serves 4 to 6
For results that will yield tuna with a perfect, raw center when cooked, select a loin that after cleansing is approximately 12-inches long and 3 ⁄4-inches thick. Note that the chickpeas must soak overnight before cooking. If like Chef Paley, you prefer to use olives with pits for this dish, don’t forget to warn your guests. 1 1⁄2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large pinch of saffron 3 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped 3 ⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, separated use, plus more for drizzling 2 tablespoons poppy seeds, plus more if needed 1 1⁄2 pounds albacore tuna loin (about 12inches-long), skin and blood line removed 1 small bulb fennel, greens trimmed Juice of 1 lemon 3 ⁄4 cup ripe cherry tomatoes, halved 1 ⁄3 cup niçoise olives with pits 1 ⁄4 cup preserved lemon peel 1 ⁄4 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves Sea salt, for finishing
To cook the chickpeas, drain them and transfer to a soup pot. Add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and then the saffron. Cook the chickpeas over medium heat until very tender, about 60 minutes. (If you forget to soak the chickpeas overnight, double their cooking time.) Always keep the chickpeas completely submerged during cooking, adding more water as needed. When done, drain and long-lasting as their culinary friends introduced them to the local vintners and farmers. “I would be up at 5 a.m. with my coffee in hand, traveling from farm to farm,” Vitaly recalled. “I am still working with those same farmers today.” Paley’s menu is based on what comes through the door. He speaks to his farmers twice a week to find out what’s coming in, and then the 66
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
cool completely. Save the cooking water for another use. It will make a great, intensely flavored vegetarian soup stock. To make the purée, in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process the cooled chickpeas, garlic and 1⁄2 cup of the olive oil until very smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside. To cook the tuna, divide the tuna loin into 3 equal pieces, season on all sides with salt and pepper, then roll in poppy seeds to coat uniformly. Tightly wrap each piece of fish in 1 piece of aluminum foil, keeping the foil smooth and without crimps. Heat a large, dry skillet over high heat until very hot, about 5 minutes. Sear the tuna, still wrapped in foil, on all sides, about 5 minutes altogether. (This technique ensures that poppy seeds stick easily to the outside of the fish and the inside remains raw.) Unwrap each piece of fish right after cooking so it does not cook further. Set aside at room temperature. To make the fennel salad, slice the fennel paper-thin, using a mandoline if possible. Put the slices in a bowl, add the lemon juice, and mix gently. Add the tomatoes, olives, lemon peel and mint. Add the remaining 1⁄4 cup of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and gently toss all ingredients to coat. To serve, slice the tuna into 1⁄2-inchthick pieces. Place a dollop of chickpea puree in the center of each plate. Set slices of tuna on the plates next to the chickpea puree and sprinkle the fish with sea salt. Top each plate with fennel salad and drizzle with more olive oil. Serve immediately. ingredients are incorporated into the menu. “When things are seasonal, you get excited about what’s coming up — beets, leeks, heirloom tomatoes, chanterelles and so on.” While their hospitality and cuisine have made Paley’s Place a Portland institution, a few things have changed since they first opened the doors of the Victorian home that has housed their restaurant for nearly 15
years. For example, they now own the building and have expanded. Vitaly remains a vital voice of Pacific Northwest cooking, and recently had two healthy recipes featured in the new cookbook, The Best Life Diet Cookbook by Oprah Winfrey’s personal trainer, Bob Greene. Additionally, Vitaly and Kimberly published with Robert Reynolds their highly anticipated cookbook, The Paley’s Place Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from the Pacific Northwest, last October. The recipes are incredibly user-friendly and are especially easy to substitute with gluten-free ingredients, though many of the recipes are naturally gluten-free. He chose to pair with the 2008 Abacela Albariño as a gluten-free match was his Poppy-Seed Crusted Albacore Tuna with Chickpea Puree and Fennel Salad, which is featured in his cookbook. “This is the perfect dish for a hot summer evening, which is the consummate focus for a crisp white wine like Albariño,” he said. “The flavors are incredibly fresh and light.” “There is no fat on the tuna. I sear it dry, in aluminum foil. The saffron, olives, garlic and chickpeas are all indicative of Spanish cuisine,” he said. “And the mint really blends well with the herbaceous, fresh flavors of the wine.” Vitaly accommodates guests with food restrictions or allergies, willing to adapt a dish to meet dietary restrictions. In fact, he will work with what the patrons can have rather than what they cannot. Paley’s Place, 1204 NW 21st Ave., Portland, OR, 97209, 503-243-2403, www.paleysplace.net ı LEAH JORGENSEN is a communications expert in the Portland area who has worked in the Northwest wine industr y for a decade. She consults for several wineries and writes about travel, wine and gluten-free living. Her Web site is leahjorgensen.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com
➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G
62-67 matchmakers.qxd
5/31/09
4:33 PM
Page 67
M AT C H M A K E R S
Poppy SeedCrusted Albacore Tuna with Chickpea Puree and Fennel Salad paired with Abacela Vineyards & Winery’s 2008 Albariño.
➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
67
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:10 PM
Page 68
WINE COUNTRY: SPOKANE
WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE
68
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:12 PM
Page 69
WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE
Maryhill Winery 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA
Tasting Room Open daily 10-6 • Gold medal wines • Huge Gift Shop selection www.maryhillwinery.com
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
1-877MARYHILL
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
69
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:15 PM
Page 70
WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN
WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA VALLEY
Tasting Room Daily 10am - 6pm I-82 Exit at Zillah (509) 829-6810 www.claarcellars.com
70
Taste our Gold Medal Sauvignon Blanc and New Release ‘08 Late Harvest Riesling
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
40 ... Label ads
5/30/09
3:17 PM
Page 71
WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
71
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
11:25 AM
Page 72
recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES
Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Jessica Munnell, a winemaker formerly at Chateau Ste. Michelle; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer, Paul Sinclair and David Volmut conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.
Reds Cabernet Sauvignon Amavi Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 3,981 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Recommended. This well-known winery cut pro-
duction of this Cab back nearly 1,000 cases from its previous vintage, yet held its price steady. Blackberry is the theme running through this wine, with accents of tar, earth, espresso and black tea.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Recommended. Another example of this vineyard’s
Capstone Cellars 2005 Solstice Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 13.6% alc., $26
Recommended. The Willard family began planting
this vineyard in 1980, but this wine seems to have come from an orchard. Rainier cherries with a bit of leaf, stewed plums and balanced oak notes spill across a juicy and tasty palate.
Carpenter Creek Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Excellent. This vintage marked the fifth anniversary
for Jeff Hammer’s winery in Mount Vernon, Wash., and historic Portteus Vineyard plays a key role in this release. Blackberries, blueberries, Tennessee red cedar and beeswax aromas delve into a deep palate of more blackberries, boysenberries, bright cherries and chocolate tones.
renowned power, it’s loaded with sweet black cherries, black olives and anise while tannins serve as bookends. Look for this to improve in the next 2-3 years.
DiStefano Winery
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery
Outstanding! Our 2008 Washington Winery of the
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Year comes through with the bottling that owner Mark Newton refers to as “The Proud Mary” and we are happy to give credit. Plums, pie cherries, vanilla bean and toast aromas roll into juicy dark flavors of plums, Rainier cherries and bittersweet chocolate. There’s nice complexity to the structure from nice acidity and tannins that build, finished by notes of cinnamon and raspberries.
Chelan County, 156 cases, 14.4% alc., $28
Recommended. Estate fruit from a vineyard over-
looking Lake Chelan produced notes of Rainier cherries, strawberry, plum, rose petal, cigar leaf and red bell pepper swirling in a structure that’s sweet on the palate and finishes with cedar and tar tones.
Canyon’s Edge Winery 2005 Aldercreek Vineyard Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvingon
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 828 cases, 14.5% alc. $32
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Horse Heaven Hills, 280 cases, 13.7% alc., $30
Columbia Valley, 852 cases, 14.7% alc., $26
Excellent.The Groths sell fruit to many wineries,
Outstanding! A remake of the label at this rising Walla Walla winery features Ceres, Greek mythology’s goddess of agriculture and harvest. Pomegranates play a role in the tale of Ceres’ daughter, and they also pop up front and center in the aromatics of this wine, along with currant jam, plums, mocha and vanilla extract. Plums take over on the palate that’s so very rich and
but they started holding some fruit back and have former Maryhill winemaker John Haw lording over their wines in Prosser. A Cab lover’s Cab, it features aromas of cherries, malted milk balls and rose hips. It’s filled with smooth flavors of Chukar Cherries and vanilla, packaged with the alcohol in check.
72
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
easy drinking there’s very little tannin to slow you down. Red currant acidity shows in the finish, along with green tea and cinnamon.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 125 cases, 14.7% alc., $45
Outstanding! This hip Walla Walla group recently
added former Boise chef Andrae Bopp to the payroll and the winemaking team. And he must really get cooking with this. Black plums, blackberries, cherry cola, cocoa powder, cedar, pulled taffy and pink peppercorns waft up the nasal passage. Bold black cherry flavors, along with boysenberries and blackberries, meet up with a lot of elegance from chocolate syrup and a bit of crushed leaf. The inherent power across the palate suggests duck breast, or drop Bopp an email for other ideas.
Kestrel Vintners 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 1,822 cases, 13.9% alc., $22
Excellent. A strong influence of oak shows in
chocolate brownie, cedar and teriyaki aromas, but there’s ample plum and blackberry in the background. More blackberries, plums and black cap cherries come through in mouthfilling fashion from this strongly structured blend of Kestrel View Estate (72%), Olsen and Elephant Mountain sites. Suggested pairings include duck with mushrooms and fig sauce.
Madsen Family Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 65 cases, 13.5% alc., $30
Recommended. This young operation in the
Washington’s capital city of Olympia sources several appellations throughout the state, including its smallest. Notes of red currants, pie cherries, tomato paste, teriyaki, tobacco leaf and oregano are bound in a zesty and bold structure that bodes well for roasts, lasagna and meatloaf topped with tomato paste.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 84 cases, 14.5% alc., $23
Recommended. Think of a bowl at breakfast with
hints of dried strawberries, raspberries, crushed cherries, brown sugar and a bit of toasted oak reminiscent of Fruity Cherrios. It’s all stirred up by a nice bit of sweetness, late acidity and tannins that build in the back end.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 284 cases, 14.2% alc., $28
Recommended. Here’s the upper end of the price
range for this picturesque winery in the morning shadow of Mount Baker. Light strawberry, vanilla and allspice aromas with cinnamon and brown sugar cascade into pie cherries on the palate. Firm tannins and cranberry acidity will reward an entrée of goose or duck breast
Nelms Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 5,521 cases, 14.1% alc., $24
Excellent.The term “press wine” isn’t a flattering
one, but Woodward Canyon’s press wine is better than the “free run juice” by many. Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cocoa powder, cigar leaf W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:26 AM
Page 73
recent releases and dried herbs arouse the senses. Then comes the delivery of sweet blueberries and blackberries with nice leafiness in the middle and good acidity. There’s a rewarding richness in the mouth feel, and the chocolaty tannins — based on the wine’s pedigree — should mature with a year or two.
amid a structure featuring acidity over tannin.
Page Cellars
brothers-in-law with a passion for 1937 C.F. Martin guitars as well as Washington reds. They slowly are increasing production at their tiny Leavenworth winery, but they have their mind on quality. Ripe cherries and chocolate are the hallmarks of this balanced Cab, accented by notes of vanilla bean, molasses, coconut and soy sauce.
2005 Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 86 cases, 14.5% alc., $50
Excellent. This Woodinville, Wash., winery contin-
ues its relationship with Shaw Vineyard for its reserve, which is Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), and backed by Merlot (20%). Blackberries, black cherries, saddle leather, brown sugar and horehound are found in the nose. It’s matched on the palate with boysenberries and huckleberries taking the center stage. The juicy structure gives way only at the end to chocolaty tannins.
Snoqualmie Vineyards 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.2% alc., $23
Excellent. Nearly a decade ago, this winery topped our judging of Northwest Cabs with its reserve line. And rather than reacting to inflation over the years, this consumer-minded operation in Prosser actually has lowered the price by a buck. Black cherries, Whoppers malted milk balls, slate and chocolate brownies dominate the aromas. There are more cherries and plums to drink down in rich fashion, accented by olives and mint
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
’37 Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 50 cases, 14.6% alc., $36
Excellent. Frank Dechaine and Chuck Egner are
WINE REVIEWS
vonMetzger, a product of co-owner Myles Anderson’s program at the Walla Walla Institute of Enology and Viticulture, has been in the background at this historic winery since 2002. The legacy continues here with a product of 36year-old vines and showy oak, giving off hints of Costa Rican coffee, alder smoke, Chex Party Mix, teriyaki, fine leather and mint. Remarkable is the juicy and jammy structure of black currants and Chukar Cherries. And it has the balance to Olympic champion gymnast Shawn Johnson.
Ward Johnson Winery
Walla Walla Vintners
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
Red Mountain, 210 cases, 14.2% alc., $18
Walla Walla Valley, 580 cases, 14.3% alc., $35
Outstanding! This group of Tri-City natives living in Seattle must stay in good touch with their roots because these grapes came from the Wiilliams clan at Kiona Vineyards & Winery. And the winemakers don’t disappoint the hometown crowd. It covers your nose with blackberries and enticing chocolate, then delivers with the same in a pleasing structure. There’s added interest from raspberry tea and almond extract toward the back end.
Outstanding! If you see Walla Walla’s famed red-
roofed barn on the label, count on the wine exhibiting a quality barrel program. This classic Cab off Dwelley, Frazier Bluff, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, Tokar and Windrow vineyards is no exception. It offers aromas of cherries and rich chocolate, strawberry jam on toast and blackberry cobbler. There’s no disappointment between the lips, including cola in the background, zesty acidity and sublime tannins. Enjoy with braised short ribs. Call the winery for the recipe.
2007 Charterboat Chick’s Cabernet Sauvignon
Walla Walla Vintners
Columbia Valley, 221 cases, 12% alc., $27
2006 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 530 cases, 14.3% alc., $40
Outstanding! New winemaker William
Westport Winery Excellent. Sweet aromas of milk chocolate, black
cherries, cola and strawberries don’t belie the structure of flavors that include cocoa powder
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
73
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
11:27 AM
Page 74
recent releases
Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Abacela Vineyards & Winery NV Vintner’s Blend No. 9 Southern Oregon, 1,927 cases, 14.1% alc., $15
Recommended. This edition, which comes in
screwcap, features 14 varieties off six vineyards — Syrah (42%), Tempranillo (19%), Merlot (9%), Dolcetto (7%), Graciano (5%), Petit Verdot (5%), Nebbiolo (5%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and less than 1% of Grenache, Muscat, Viognier, Tannat, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Black cherries, blueberries, vanilla bean and cocoa powder form a lush drink on its own. Or enjoy it with a plate of ribs, thanks to the Syrah’s influence.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 2,300 cases, 13.3% alc., $15
Recommended. A nose of pomegranate, white
strawberry, cherry, cedar and vanilla evolve into more cherries and brambleberries on the palate with assertive tannins and a lengthy finish of more boysenberries and blackberries.
on a regular basis knows it doesn’t need celeb chef Bobby Flay as a pitchman. Blackberries, strawberry fruit leather, cinnamon, brown sugar and baker’s chocolate should be in Flay’s pantry of aromatic notes. Sweet blackberries and cherries arrive early in the mouth and stay smooth well past closing time, making this gathering of Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope fruit an annual crowd pleaser.
Columbia Crest Winery 2004 Two Vines Merlot Washington, 375,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
Outstanding! Utterly amazing are the scope and
price. Chukar cherrries, red plums and artichoke aromas are followed by more red cherries on the palate. It’s smooth and tasty with warm oak and a finish of sweets from a box of Seattle Chocolates. Enjoy this as a “Tuesday night, I’m home” wine with spaghetti and meatballs.
Columbia Crest Winery 2006 Two Vines Merlot-Cabernet
cherries, strawberries, canned plums, mint leaf and cigar tobacco aromas brush into flavors of cherry juice and chocolate, with green peppercorns and sturdy tannins.
Desert Wind Winery 2006 Desert Wind Vineyard Merlot Wahluke Slope, 3,129 cases, 14.5% alc., $15
Excellent. Winery patriarch Doug Fries enjoys
living near his 500 acres of vines in Mattawa, Wash., and that abundant planting allows his scions to produce quality wines at consumer prices. Black cherries, leather, mint and cedar fill the nose. The jammy palate is loaded with sweet cherries and blackberries, a pinch of Muscovado sugar, and is backed by coffee and chocolate.
Duck Pond Cellars 2004 Desert Wind Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope, 8,140 cases, 14.5% alc., $12
Excellent. The Fries family has been known for
Cayalla
Washington, 134,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
2005 Red Wine
Outstanding! There’s logic to the name because it’s Merlot (75%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), a blend eliciting aromas of strawberries, plums, violets, pink peppercorns and a whiff of prosciutto. A tilt draws in juicy plums and black cherries in a petite approach that turns plush and lengthy with dusty tannins.
years as a Pinot Noir producer in the Willamette Valley, but its holdings also include a trendy winery/resort/restaurant in Prosser, Wash. Fruit off their Sacagawea and Desert Wind blocks produced a wine that — five years later — is showing a bouquet of black cherries, plums, smoke, celery leaf and brown sugar. It’s sweet, silky, juicy and balanced on the palate with bright cherries and rich chocolate and dusty tannins.
Columbia Crest Winery
Duck Pond Cellars
2005 Two Vines Shiraz
2006 Wahluke Slope Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,796 cases, 15% alc., $12
Columbia Valley, 25,500 cases, 13% alc., $12
Excellent. Firesteed is showing consistency with
this brand, matching our rating from its debut vintage of 2004. It’s a blend of Syrah (45%), Merlot (35%) and Cab Sauv that’s fruit-forward in every direction with aromas of light cherries, strawberries, root beer and Graham cracker. Its flavors are reminiscent of a cherry cola with a juicy structure and ample tannins. The more you get into this, the better it gets.
Columbia Crest Winery 2006 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 200,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $11
Excellent.The term “grand” could refer to both the
scale of production and the value provided by the duo of Ray Einberger and Juan Muñoz Oca. Black currants, black cherries and black pepper aromas are joined by hints of a Swisher Sweets cigar. The gorgeously luscious entry also is focused on a structure of softened cherries and milk chocolate for an easy drinking wine.
Columbia Crest Winery 2006 Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 225,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
Outstanding! Do a Web search for “youtube einberger wine” and you’ll get a flavor for how chief winemaker Ray Einberger and his team create this. Here’s a wave of black cherry, cinnamon, nutmeg, green peppercorn and citrus peel aromas. And there’s no disappointment for those into hedonism. It’s a silky and juicy quaffer with more black cherries, milk chocolate and cinnamon bark in the finish.
Columbia Crest Winery 2006 Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley, 285,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $11
Outstanding! Anyone who encounters this wine
74
Washington, 135,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
Outstanding! “Sugar Ray” Einberger goes after some Aussie “tail” both in style and price, achieved in part with only half of the juice being aged in oak barrels. Ripe strawberries, Bing cherries, milk chocolate, spearmint, pencil shavings and black pepper aromas lead to more Bing cherries and milk chocoalte on the flavors. It’s velvety and balanced with sweet tannins.
Excellent. It’s rare to find a wine made from this
Columbia Crest Winery
2006 Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon
Rhône variety selling at this price, and you can smell the ripeness of the fruit. Black cherry jam, tar, furniture polish, chalkboard dust and espresso aromas prepare you for a mouthful of Black Forest cake. It’s rich with cherries, chocolate and vanilla.
Dusted Valley Vintners
2006 Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red Wine
Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $15
Washington, 30,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
Columbia River and into Eastern Oregon from Vineyard 10 in Paterson, Wash., the namesake for this blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Barbera, Mourvèdre and Dolcetto. Whiffs of cherry cola, brown sugar, vanilla and chocolate give way to explosive flavors of the same in mouth-coating fashion. Credit for the foodfriendly acidity belongs to those Italian varieties.
Excellent. This lower-priced label for DVV comes in screwcap, and it has plenty of spunk with aromas of blueberries, black cherries, toasted sesame seed, coffee and black pepper. There’s a rush of flavors on the creamy palate, leading with Bing cherry cobbler ala mode, blueberries with a bit of the seed, a cup of espresso and a finish of NECCO wafer and Oreo cookie. Look for this at wine shops and grocery stores because it’s not sold at the winery.
Desert Wind Winery
Dusted Valley Vintners
2006 Desert Wind Vineyard Cabernet Sauvingon
2006 Boomtown Syrah
Wahluke Slope, 5,236 cases, 14.5% alc., $15
Excellent. Here’s the last wine from these Wisconsin refugees that’s bottled with cork. It’s a rather heavy and plush drink — think of relaxing in a supple leather couch — with hints of
Excellent. There’s an expansive view of the
Excellent. This area along the Columbia River
continues to burnish its reputation for growing big reds, and here’s another example. Dusty
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Columbia Valley, 1,700 cases, 14.6% alc., $15
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:27 AM
Page 75
recent releases
WINE REVIEWS
Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
ripe Bing cherries, chocolate cake and a quick grab of blackberries that included a bit of leaf.
Revelry Vintners
Magnificent Wine Co.
Columbia Valley, 3,200 cases, 13.9% alc., $15
2007 Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Excellent. One of the most recognizable of the
Precept Brands, it’s not unusual to find this wine — credited to Charles Smith of K Vintners fame — on restaurant wine lists. Rainier cherries, raspberries with the leaf, celery and wintergreen tones outside and in make this splendid for grilled lamb or a slab of meatloaf.
Maryhill Winery 2007 Winemaker’s Red Columbia Valley, 20,292 cases, 13.8% alc., $14
Recommended. New winemaker Garry Penner
arrived in time to put his signature on the label of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. The results are notes of black cherries, Wheat Thins cracker, leaf tobacco, blackboard chalk and firm tannins.
Mount Baker Vineyards 2005 Barrel Select Merlot Yakima Valley, 218 cases, 15.1% alc., $14
Recommended. Several prized sites —
Crawford, Kiona and Portteus — helped this Western Washington winery produce a consumer-minded and easy-to-drink offering of cherries, vanilla and Jolly Rancher grape candy. A bit of citrus and ample acidity keep the sweetness of the fruit in check.
Revelry Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, 13.6% alc., $15
Outstanding! Issaquah, Wash., entreprenuer Jared Burns continues to expand his young operation, which includes taking over the winemaking space at the Walla Walla airport formerly used by the dissolving of Colvin Vineyard. It’s valued priced despite the use of 100% French oak. Huge black fruit spotlights the blackberries and chocolate in this smooth and balanced drink with beveled edges. The dash of Cabernet Franc (5%) explains the tobacco leaf tones in the background.
and cinnamon. There’s good acidity to balance its tilt toward off-dry, so here’s something to offer those looking to start enjoying red wine.
2006 Merlot Outstanding! The Wahluke Slope continues to grow its reputation for big reds, and here’s a Merlot at a marvelous price from Jones and Milbrandt fruit. Ripe cherries, blueberriers and chalkboard dust aromas transition into a complex and layered palate of sweet blackberries, currants and mocha. The structure is one of bright acidity and smooth, yet dusty, tannins.
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Snake River Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.% alc., $15
Excellent. This Corus Estates property was
among the first in the Northwest to deploy screwcaps for nonreserve wines, so Stelvin makes it even easier to get at this, which got backing from Merlot (10%), Petit Verdot (7%), Malbec (4%) and Cab Franc. Nosing it brings in big oak aromas along with black cherry and green pepper. There’s a quaffable blend of cherries, chocolate and plums with tea bag tannin on the palate and purple blackberry in the finish. Enjoy this with a meat lasagna or artisan pizza that includes peppers.
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Merlot Snake River Valley, 1,100 cases, 14.1% alc., $15
Outstanding! Power, depth and complexity start the discussion here. It gets some claret-style backing from Petit Verdot (5%), Malbec (4%), Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) and Cab Franc (2%). The influence of small casks might be too much for some as black cherry, plum sauce and green tobacco aromas include teriyaki sauce, tar, cedar and crushed almond. The interior though is hugely dark, almost ponderous, but remarkably smooth, which sometimes isn’t that easy to find in a Merlot.
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Syrah Snake River Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.7% alc., $15
Recommended. A backing of other Rhône vari-
eties — Cinsault (7%), Mourvèdre (6%) and Grenache — makes this worthy of research. pers. It’s a mouth-coating drink of more blackberries and cherries amid a balanced structure, trailed by orange oil and tobacco in the finish.
Pinot Noir
Woodward Canyon Winery 2006 Artist Series #15 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 449 cases, 14.5% alc., $49
Outstanding! Rick Small launched this line in 1992,
and it long has been among the most prized Cabs in the Northwest. Grapes from Champoux, DuBrul, Sagemoor, Woodward Canyon Estate and Charbonneau vineyards get his blueprint approach of new French oak barrels that produce aromas of blackberries and cherries, Graham cracker crust and roasted hot red pepW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
Nice cherry aromas include tobacco leaf, tar and green bean, then it turns dark cherries and plums on the palate with big barrel notes of anise, chocolate and espresso. It’s bound by an abundance of tannins.
Scatter Creek Winery NV Daves Rajin’ Red Wine Washington, 150 cases, 13.8% alc., $15
Excellent. A new operation in the Olympia,
Wash., suburb of Tenino leaves a favorable impression on your palate without putting a dent on the wallet as a result of its blend of Syrah (60%), Merlot (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dusty cherries, rose petals, black cap raspberries and fine sand transcend into more raspberry flavors with strawberries in a sweet and hedonistic fashion.
Three Rivers Winery 2007 River’s Red Columbia Valley, 3,386 cases, 13.6% alc., $15
Outstanding! While many Walla Walla wineries raise their demands, Holly Turner still manages to turn out Saturday-night wines at Tuesdaynight prices. This Syrah-led blend (48%) with Malbec, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Cab Sauv, Carménère and Tempranillo shows youthfulness in the nose with blueberries, Chukar cherries, moist earth and teriyaki. There’s a match on the creamy entry, which turns juicy on the midpalate with lots of acidity. Great balance hangs in the finish of beets and blueberries.
Whitestone Vineyard & Winery NV Version 4.11 Pieces of Red Wine Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 14.4% alc., $15
Outstanding! Lake Roosevelt — the portion of Columbia River slowed by Grand Coulee Dam — is home to this winery that uses a renovated gas station in Wilbur, Wash. The proprietary blend offers up aromas of dusty cherries, milk chocolate, strawberry/rhubarb jam, cola and plums rolled in sugar. Inside are juicy blueberries, cherries and boysenberries with a bit of the leaf. Acidity arrives early and the tannins late to create a beautifully long finish.
foods such as salmon or goat cheese.
Chehalem Wines 2006 Corral Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 299 cases, 15.4% alc., $44
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery
Excellent. Harry Pederson-Nedry gives visitors a
2006 Pinot Noir Chelan County, 256 cases, 13% alc., $23
Recommended. This estate vineyard is building a
reputation for Pinot Noir in the new Lake Chelan appellation, and here’s the latest. It features red-toned fruit, rose petal, violets, crushed leaf, saddle leather and a pinch of pepper. Nice acidity and its light structure won’t compete with
strong sense of place with this release, which comes from the vineyard surrounding the winery. Planted in 1983, these berries provide aromatics of Rainier cherries, strawberry leaf, white pepper and chocolate. Spicy pie cherries and chocolate pour across the palate, with lipsmacking strawberry jam taking over the midpalate and beyond.
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
75
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
12:17 PM
recent releases
Chehalem Wines 2006 Stoller Vineyard Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 604 cases, 14.9% alc., $44
Excellent. One of several estate vineyards, this
one puts a lot of terroir into this Pinot Noir as it’s filled with strawberries, Van cherries and a bit of citrus, along with cedar and forest floor aromas. A tilt delivers a taste of strawberry jam and more cherry notes, joined by salivating acidity and pleasing tannins with a bit of tartness in the finish.
David Hill Vineyards and Winery 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 14.5% alc., $38
Outstanding! Jason Bull continues to show the
promise of this vineyard, one of the oldest and most overlooked in Oregon. A subtle but welcoming nose features cherries, raspberries and pie cherries, but rose petals, dill weed and green peppercorns are in the background. The drink also is on the delicate side and rewards those with time to devote to it. Its light flavors of raspberries and pie cherries gain your favor, and beauty builds with balance and a finish of dried blackberries and more dill. Food options
76
Page 76
include Salisbury steak or duck breast in a pomegranate sauce.
Domaine Serene 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 9,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $58
Recommended. More than 70 different lots factor
into this blend of Pommard, Wadenswil and Dijon clones from estate sites in the Dundee and Eola hills, resulting in an offering filled with notes of strawberries, Montmorency cherries, cedar, saddle leather and allspice.
Eastburn Vineyards 2006 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 450 cases, 13.8% alc., $38
Outstanding! Here’s a remarkable debut from a
very young Parrett Mountain site planted in Jory soil to Dijon clones. Strawberry juice, pie cherries, rose petals and vanilla caress the nose. The drink is akin to a piece of cherry pie with French vanilla ice cream and delicious from stem to stern with sensual structure. Suggested fare includes filet mignon, roasted lamb, quail or smoked chicken.
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Kettle Valley Winery 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 284 cases, 14% alc., $35 CDN
Excellent. Our 2009 B.C. Winery of the Year reaf-
firms that Pinot Noir in the Okanagan Valley is worth the effort. Three Naramata Bench sites — Cole, Hayman and Trovao — are blended with those from Thibault Vineyard in Summerland to produce aromatics of black cherries, plums, dusty chocolate and cracked black pepper. A clean and gentle entry awaits with more plums and juicy cherries floating in the medium body.
Kyra Wines 2007 Pinot Noir Washington, 388 cases, 14.2% alc., $22
Excellent. One of the few spots in Washington to produce worthy Pinot Noir is the Milbrandt brothers’ Evergreen Vineyard. Moses Lake vintner Kyra Baerlocher tapped into that Quincy parcel as well as Blue Lakes Vineyard in Oroville, and the drinker is instantly rewarded with aromas of black cherries, plums, raspberries, cinnamon, cocoa powder and eucalyptus. There’s more black cherries on the attack, followed by milk chocolate in the midpalate and warm strawberries in the finish.
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:33 AM
Page 77
recent releases Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 13% alc., $25 CDN
Recommended. This spent 14 months in French oak,
which explains the cedar and chocolate aromas among the dark cherry, red currant and oregano. The greeting in the mouth is of cherries, blood orange and cocoa in the medium body, trailed by dusty tannins and more cedar in the finish.
Left Coast Cellars 2006 Cali’s Cuvée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 4,400 cases, 14.8% alc., $28
Excellent. Named to honor the family artist, this
release makes up a sizable chunk of the winery’s entire production. There are aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, rosewater, cedar, green bell pepper and a hint of vanilla bean. It fills the mouth with more dried cherries, white strawberries and plums, backed by bittersweet chocolate, peppercorns and a tug of tannin.
Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. 2006 Capital T Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 250 cases, 13.3% alc., $39
Recommended. Estate fruit from this downtown
Eugene, Ore., winery contributes notes of cherry and pomegranate juice, chocolate, freshsnapped green beans and tobacco. Zesty acidity and late tannins provide some punctuation.
Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. 2006 Stone’s Throw Pinot Noir Willamette valley, 275 cases, 13.4% alc., $29
Excellent. The winemaker deemed the 2005 vin-
tage was unworthy of bottling at this tier, but this pitch drills the strike zone. Smoky and toasty oak backs up aromas of spicy cherries, bittersweet chocolate and gun metal. It’s juicy and supple all the way through with lively blueberries and rich blackberries, smooth tannins and closes with pie cherries.
Merlot
WINE REVIEWS
rose hips, violets, cocoa powder and cloves. Describing the juicy palate could keep a stenographer busy with flavors of rich plums, more cherries and a chocolaty mouth feel. It’s round and sweet with a lingering finish of raspberries. This wine won gold at the 2009 Northwest Wine Summit, and you’ll get no argument from us.
Bonair Winery 2006 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Merlot Rattlesnake Hills, 187 cases, 13.9% alc., $20
Excellent. These vines are closing in on 30 years
old, and Gail Puryear put them to use for aromas of marionberries, tobacco and chalk dust. More juicy berries await on the palate, joined by chocolate, nutmeg and saddle leather. It’s all carried along with bright acidity.
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Barrister Winery
2005 Merlot
2006 Dwelley Vineyard Merlot
Columbia Valley, 151,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Walla Walla Valley, 188 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Excellent. Lead winemaker Bob Bertheau said
Outstanding! These Spokane attorneys could bill
this vintage tested his patience, but time has served this wine well. The nose is filled with black cherries, blackberries, stewed plums, cedar, vanilla and baseball card bubble gum
their winery clients more for a Merlot of such quality, but we’re glad they don’t. Instead, they summon you with notes of Rainier cherries,
Experience the Northwest’s Best Wine Store • Over 5,000 wines • Discount prices • Free local delivery • We ship UPS • Call for free mailer • Private wine lockers • Secured access • Climate controlled • Convenient location
2700 Fourth Avenue South Seattle, WA (206) 682-7374 • (888) 682-WINE www.esquin.com
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
77
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
11:33 AM
Page 78
recent releases
dust. It’s big and rich with cherries, cola and bittersweet chocolate, rewarding acidity and tannins that heighten the fruit.
San Juan Vineyards
Columbia Crest Winery
Outstanding! This vintage marked the 10th anniver-
2005 Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, 14.7% alc., $25
Excellent. How many others in the Northwest can
honestly claim that 3,000 cases qualifies as a “reserve”? And yet, the style fits. Oak influences of brown sugar, raspberry and cedar don’t overwhelm the base of black cherries and raspberries, and the infusion of Cab Franc (5%) may explain the notes of thyme and oregano. Juicy plums and boysenberries step to the front of this rather masculine wine that asserts itself with tannins from the midpalate on through.
DavenLore Winery 2006 Merlot Washington, 150 cases, 14.6% alc., $25
2006 Merlot Yakima Valley, 351 cases, 14.3% alc., $22
sary of this winery. Unfortunately, co-owner Steve Swanberg lost his battle with cancer not long before these Kestrel View grapes arrived. Winemaker Chris Primus also arrived in 2006, and he produced an array of cherry and blackberry aromas with backing of brown sugar and vanilla bean. There’s delicious fruit in the flavors with juicy blackberry, cherry and boysenberry. Pleasant length with cinnamon, balanced alcohol and good acidity allow the tannins to add traction without grabbing on the way out. It brought home gold from the 2009 Northwest Wine Summit.
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Reserve Merlot Snake River Valley, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Outstanding! Founding winemaker Brad Pintler is
toast new American oak — but it picked enough without being over the top. Big black cherry, blueberry and loganberry aromas jump out, backed by hints of milk chocolate, vanilla, caramel and crushed walnut. The palate goes on a starbord tack with unripe Bing cherries, drip coffee and leather notes. Steady-as-she-goes tannins and the acidity will pair with pasta in a meat sauce.
Westport Winery 2007 Mermaid’s Merlot Columbia Valley, 297 cases, 12% alc., $23
Recommended. There’s a tasty theme of cherries
throughout, accented by notes of a toasted cinnamon raisin bagel, an easy and straight-forward structure and a finish of cherry Jell-O.
Woodward Canyon 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 623 cases, 14% alc., $39
no longer in charge, but among his legacy is this drink that’s a wealth of strawberry jam. It starts in the nose, backed by a handful Rainier cherries that included a leaf, vanilla, black olives, mocha, smoke and leather. More of that jam is joined by canned pie cherries and a sprinke of brown sugar. Citrusy acidity and a slice of green bell pepper adds complexity.
Excellent. Rick Small tapped into the Wahluke
2005 Merlot
Snoqualmie Vineyards
Amavi Cellars
Yakima Valley, 1,902 cases, 13.9% alc. $25
2005 Reserve Merlot
2006 Les Collines Vinyeard Syrah
Outstanding! A blend of some of the valley’s most
Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $23
Walla Walla Valley, 237 cases, $34
respected sites — the estate Kestrel View, Olsen, Elephant Mountain and Boushey — gave Flint Nelson a tasty toolbox to pull from. It starts with sweet cherry, chocolate and river rock aromas. Beautiful blue fruit and Bing cherry flavors await with a lean blackberry character and great balance. Delicious acidity makes it worthy of lamb or salmon.
Outstanding! Joy Andersen presents this wine in
Recommended. The vineyard is pronounced as
a bottle that’s black and smooth, which also describes what’s inside. Dark cherries and sweet barrel aromas of mocha, juniper, anise and saddle leather filter in. Black cherries and cassis dominate this laid-back and balanced Merlot, most of which comes from Wahluke Slope vines well into their third decade of life.
“Lay co-lean,” and there are pronounced tones of black cherries, tobacco, smoky coffee and alfalfa throughout with sweet, rounded tannins and a pleasingly tart finish that should bode well with such entrees as venison or smoked duck.
Long Shadows Vintners
Three Rivers Winery
2006 Pedestal Merlot
2006 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 1,877 cases, 14.7% alc., $55
Columbia Valley, 1,870 cases, 14.8% alc., $19
Recommended. The collaboration with Michel
Excellent. There's new ownership at this respect-
Rolland and vineyards such as Conner Lee, Dionysus and Wallula vineyards serves up an opulent, soft and sweet drink of strawberry jam, blackberry, marionberry, green peppercorns, teriyaki, tar and brown sugar.
ed Walla Walla winery, but Holly Turner remains, and so does the quality. Fruit from Alder Creek Vineyard, Dionysus and Arbor Crest's estate Wahluke Slope Vineyard got a lot of barrel influence from French and Hungarian oak in the form of root beer, cedar and a candela-wrapped cigar. There's sweetness on the palate with black cherries, rewarding chocolate and black coffee, as well as some grip to the tannins that should take this along for a nice ride in the cellar.
Recommended. Gord Taylor in Prosser, Wash., has
a bird’s eye view of the Yakima Valley, and it’s easy to spot the black cherry, plum and leather notes with hints of green tea. There’s also the pleasure end of a cigar in the background. He suggests pouring this with grilled pork chops or pasta primavera.
Kestrel Vintners
Lopez Island Vineyards 2006 Crawford Vineyard Merlot Yakima Valley, 183 cases, 14% alc., $17
Recommended. Black cherries and boysenberries
swirl throughout with accents of teriyaki and freshcut grass among the smooth structure. It’s spiced up by some blueberry tartness in the finish.
Ward Johnson Winery 2006 Merlot Red Mountain, 252 cases, 14.2% alc., $21
Martin-Scott Winery
Recommended. The Hedges North Block provides
2006 Merlot
a pleasant view as well as the grapes for this straight-forward offering of plums, Bing cherries, grape fruit leather, cigar leaf, tea and chocolate. It’s built with food-friendly acidity and tannins tucked in the background.
Columbia Valley, 129 cases, 14.4% alc., $21
Excellent. Mike Scott spearheaded the Jack Jones
project in Mattawa that shifted from orchards to vines. Ten years later, Scott is making wine from those grapes, including this one that opens with light cherry, vanilla and cedar aromas. The cherries carry through onto the palate, joined on the rich midpalate by red plums. Tangy acidity, modest tannins and restrained oak should pair this well with a sirloin or prime rib.
78
Westport Winery 2007 Boom Runner Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 12% alc., 99 cases, $29
Excellent. This all-Merlot offering didn’t spend
much time in barrel — six weeks in medium-
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Slope site of Weinbau (50%), his estate (31%), Sagemoor near the Columbia River (15%) and the cult Yakima Valley site of DuBrul for a rich release featuring inky blue fruit, cocoa, leather, tannin over acidity and a finish of cherry liqueur.
Syrah
Amavi Cellars 2006 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 1,462 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Recommended. Estate grapes from Seven Hills,
Pepper Bridge and Les Collines shows abundant oak in the aromas with toast, ground coffee and juniper berries. The true rewards strike the palate with blackberry syrup filling the entry, warm chocolate on the midpalate and maple syrup in the finish.
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Syrah Yakima Valley, 144 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Randy Bonaventura, whose talents ele-
vated Mount Baker Vineyards, is putting Concrete, Wash., on the wine map. He co-fermented this with Viognier (4%) and the aromas include red currants, pie cherries, plums, cola, tea and tobacco. There are more plums, cherries, tobacco and a little tar on the palate, and its racy structure imparts a food-friendly structure unlike most Syrahs. Enjoy it as a quaffer or with rich tomato-based fare, including a meatball sandwich.
Cinder Wines 2007 Syrah Snake River Valley, 280 cases, 14.1% alc., $27
Outstanding! Melanie Krause first grabbed our attention last year by earning our top rating for her inaugural vintage of Syrah. She’s now 2-for2. It’s not a fruit bomb, showing restraint with a W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:35 AM
Page 79
recent releases
WINE REVIEWS
greeting of fine pipe tobacco, blackberries, juniper, red pepper flakes, sun-dried tomato, Italian seasoning, leather and eucalyptus. Blackberries, cola, vanilla bean and fine-grained leather make for a well-balanced drink, and Baker’s chocolate accents the lengthy farewell. Enjoy it with pork, lamb, salmon or steak.
Dallesport, Wash., site allowed winemaker Sherrill Miller to produce a plush and plummy drink with accents of juniper berry and eucalyptus, backed by mint chocolate in the finish.
Olsen Estates
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards
Coeur d’Alene Cellars
Wahluke Slope, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $28
2005 Syrah
Outstanding! A number of Chelan-area wineries point to Mike Wade’s RiverBend Vineyard as a reason for their success, and here’s another example. Plummy aromas include cherry hard candy, brown sugar, baking spice and spearment. The drink features a thickness akin to blackberry jam and supremely managed tannins. Chocolate floats along, and blackberry and blueberry notes finish in a flourish that keeps bringing you back.
spent 15 months in almost new French oak, and it shows. There’s lots of bittersweet chocolate and sassafras around a base of plums and boysenberries. It’s framed by a medium structure and pie cherry acidity.
Washington, 531 cases, 14.9% alc., $28
Outstanding! Consistent winemaking and widely
regarded vineyards such as Alder Ridge, Stillwater Creek, Andrews and Boushey make this Idaho Panhandle winery a proven producer of Rhône varieties. Another example is in this bottle, which contains aromas of cassis, pie cherries and teriyaki. The drink is opulent with boysenberries and more cassis, Red Vines licorice and Red Hot candy. Its structure of acidity over tannins should lend itself well to pork ribs.
2006 Syrah
Excellent. Estate fruit from the Yakima Valley
Pentâge Winery 2006 Syrah Okanagan Valley, 225 cases, 14% alc., $26 CDN
Excellent. Dark fruit, crushed leaf, saddle leather
and toasty oak aromas funnel into big black cherry flavors and juicy raspberries. Robust tannins and rewarding pie cherry tartness show in the finish. 2005 Reserve Syrah
2006 Sequel Syrah
Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, 14.3% alc., $23
Columbia Valley, 2,012 cases, 14.7% alc., $55
2006 The Dungeon Syrah
Outstanding! The venture with former Penfold’s
Outstanding! A gathering from Snipes Canyon Ranch, Wahluke Slope Vineyard and Sagemoor, includes a touch of Grenache (6%). It allows Derek DesVoigne to develop a wine you’d enjoy in solitary confinement. The bouquet of blackberries, black pepper, Tennesseee red cedar and French vanilla doesn’t mislead. It’s a big but juicy drink of blackberries, cherries, allspice and Godiva chocolate.
Columbia Valley, 297 cases, 14.2% alc., $31
Snoqualmie Vineyards
Long Shadows Vintners
Cuillin Hills Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 14.7% alc., $29
2006 Syrah
Excellent. The Prosser-based branch of Ste.
Grange vintner John Duval incorporates fruit from famed sites such as Alder Ridge, Wallula, Boushey, Bacchus and Sagemoor. It launches with a pleasingly complex nose of rich black cherries, augmented by vanilla, juniper, mint, chocolate and eucalyptus. Softened strawberries help show off a juicy structure with chocolate in the midpalate, hastened by enjoyable acidity and anise in the finish.
Michelle Wine Estates spices this higher-tier Syrah by blending in Mourvèdre (6%), and the results include raspberries, coffee, cinnamon, eucalyptus and black pepper in the bouquet. Instantly in the mouth is proof that its a wellmade wine as more raspberries, cassis and coffee flavors are framed by ample acidity and assertive tannins, cast away by a finish of bittersweet chocolate and cedar. Joy Andersen suggests enjoying this with roast duck or turkey.
Daven Lore Winery 2006 Syrah Horse Heaven Hills, 14.6% alc., $25
Excellent. Canadian-born winemaker Gord Taylor
spent time in Australia, and the influence is apparent with this big blueberry theme, starting with the aromas, which include Bing cherries and a baked Triscuit cracker. Blueberries return in a dark form between the gums with strawberries and tomato sauce, wrapped in a pleasing structure of tartness and acidity.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Lonesome Spring Ranch Squirrel Tooth Alice Syrah Yakima Valley, 125 cases, 14.6% alc., $32
Recommended. The name is a tongue-twister, one
of the longest in the Northwest, and it’s got plenty to say with hints of Bing cherries, blueberries, espresso, brown sugar, allspice, mint, furikake and cedar in a pleasing mouth feel.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2006 Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 136 cases, 14.7% alc., $45
Recommended. There’s little reserved here with
marionberry, raspberry, cola, chocolate milk, cedar, violet, lilac and oak spice aromas. It’s followed by a lean entry of black raspberries, black cherries, a good grip of tannin and blackened plums in the finish.
E.B. Foote Winery 2007 Graves Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 138 cases, 15% alc., $18
Recommended. Grapes from this established W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
79
72-89 Recent Releases
6/3/09
WINE REVIEWS
5:12 PM
Page 80
recent releases
Three River Winery
Westport Winery
2006 Syrah
2007 Surfer Last’s Syrah
Columbia Valley, 919 cases, 14% alc., $19
Columbia Valley, 334 cases, 12% alc., $21
Excellent. A pair of highly regarded vineyards —
Outstanding! While their labels might not win any
Boushey in the Yakima Valley and Weinbau on the Wahluke Slope — allowed Holly Turner to showcase a deep purple Syrah. Plums, red cherries, chocolate, coffee, freshly toasted bread and a slice of green pepper fill the nose. There’s a succulent feel to all that purple fruit on the palate, and the inclusion of Petit Verdot (12%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) adds to the backbone, where there’s a scrape of vanilla bean in the offing. Try this with roasted pork loin accompanied by a plum reduction sauce.
design awards, this wine is worthy of one. Fruit dominates the aromas, starting with plums, blackberries, black currants and strawberry jam. The fruit follows through boldly and beautifully with a juicy strawberry entry and more blue fruit swirling in behind — particularly blueberry and its acidity.
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C’est Syrah Beaux Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 14.8% alc., $38
Excellent. His name is Lloyd Anderson, but in
Northwest wine circles, he might just as well go by Mr. Dacon. Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills leads the way (60%) for his middletier Syrah, and its backed by Reach at the End of the Road (17%), Elephant Mountain (13%) and Boushey vineyards. Spicy cherry pipe tobacco, blueberry and vanilla aromas set the table for a seamless structure of juicy cherries, wild mountain berries and warm chocolate accents.
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C’est Syrah Belle Columbia Valley, 450 cases, 14.6% alc., $30
Excellent. The same four vineyards go into each
of the three Syrahs at Walter Dacon, but Ranch at the End of the Road (Red Mountain) makes up the majority in this, his largest production, which he co-ferments with Viognier (6%). Blackberries, pie cherries, vanilla and dark chocolate notes fill the nose. Blueberries and huckleberries take over the jammy palate that shows restrained use of oak and a lingering finish.
Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C’est Syrah Magnifique Yakima Valley, 294 cases, 14.8% alc., $42
Excellent. Equal parts of Boushey and Elephant
Mountain vineyards (32%) share the load in Lloyd Anderson’s priciest release from his Shelton, Wash., winery. Wonderfully mature barrel notes show early with hints of brown sugar and maple in the aromas, but there’s plenty of blueberries, pie cherries and pie spice, too. It’s more of the same on the palate, including lingonberries, carried along with balance to pair well with lamb pops, gyros or duck breasts served in a Chinese five-spice sauce.
Ward Johnson Winery
Westport Winery 2007 Vintner’s Reserve Swimmer’s Last Syrah Columbia Valley, 98 cases, 12% alc., $27
Recommended. Some Syrahs are so hedonistic
that they lack the structure for food pairings, but not this. Plums, tart blueberry and elderberry notes, along with vanilla bean, feature acidity over tannins to make this a worthy accompaniment with reddish prime rib or duck confit.
Cabernet Franc GraEagle Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley, 100 cases, 13.9% alc., $30
Excellent. Neuffer Estate, near Leonetti Cellar,
provides the fruit for this wine that’s true to the variety. This wine, a second label of Nicholas Cole Cellars, has expressive nose as cassis, blackberry, Western serviceberry, black peppercorns, freshly snapped green beans, allspice and tobacco only begin to tell its tale. It’s certainly not a wallflower to drink, featuring Bing cherries, more green bean, bittersweet chocolate and tobacco. The red-toned fruit and herbal quality will pair well with meatloaf or flank steak marinated in red wine and thyme.
Pentâge Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, 200 cases, 14% alc., $28 CDN
Recommended. Blackberries, dark crushed cherries,
cola, teriyaki, tobacco, toast and bittersweet chocolate notes fill the profile of this smooth drink that’s finished with assertive tannins.
Wind River Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills, 300 cases, 13% alc., $25
Outstanding! The Goodwillies have great success working with this variety, and they skillfully preserve its food-friendly aspects. Destiny Ridge fruit offers aromas of raspberry, pie cherries, nutmeg, oregano and cigar leaf. The drink yields more red fruit with piquant cherries, raspberries with the seed, beautiful tarntess and acidity that builds, yiedling at bit at the end to bittersweet chocolate.
2006 Ranch at the End of the Road Syrah
Sangiovese
Red Mountain, 252 cases, 14.2% alc., $21
Excellent. The winemaking Brothers Johnson
from Richland, Wash., tap into another Williams family site for a single-variety bottling. Bright fruit aromas feature currants, backed by cinnamon, vanilla and mincemeat. There’s more currant jam on the palate with notes of coffee, lots of acidity and a drop of steak juice, which conjures up thoughts of a pairing with grilled Tbone.
80
Capstone Cellars 2006 Boushey Vineyards Barrel Select Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 250 cases, 13.4% alc., $20
Recommended. It’s uncommon in the Northwest to
find a Sangiovese with such oak tones as this release from Longview, Wash., that includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. But there’s also
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
black cherries and boysenberry acidity along with notes of saddle leather and martini olives.
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 185 cases, 12.7% alc., $22
Excellent. Freddy Arredondo met his future wife
while both were culinary students in Italy, which might begin to explain his early success with Italian varieties. Blueberries, Rainier cherries, citrus, espresso and a hint of dill tell some of the tale of the aromas. Long and lean flavors of blackberries and blueberries are carried along by tannins that will reward a filet mignon, but the low alcohol and neutral oak of this offering opens this wine up to leaner meats.
Kyra Wines 2006 Sangiovese Wahluke Slope, 275 cases, 13.4% alc., $17
Excellent. The Baerlochers hauled fruit from their Pheasant Vineyard to their quaint winery at the Moses Lake airport and produced yet another quality wine for those who fly coach. Dusty pie cherry aromas include cola, brown sugar, warm oak. The easy drink features a cheery entry of more cherries, some cassis, a bit of tobacco and bright tannins. Enjoy with breaded veal cutlets, lasagna or other tomato-based dish.
Marchetti Wines 2007 Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 40 cases, 12.4% alc., $27
Excellent. Rich LaRose of Olympia, Wash.,
learned winemaking from his Sicilian father, and there’s some Old World skill on display with this fruit from VineHeart in Prosser. A fragrant wine, influenced by Hungarian oak, features notes of blueberries, strawberries, black cherries, moist earth, sandalwood and cedar bark. It’s a fruitdriven drink with raspberries and pie cherries, bubbly acidity and a long finish with more brambleberries and a bit of chocolate.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 43 cases, 15.7% alc., $25
Excellent. There’s a bit of Syrah (7%) among the
fruit from Jones Vineyard, and the ripeness of the fruit shows from every point of view. Strawberry jam aromas are joined by canned blackberries, nutmeg and coffee. Ironically, it drinks akin to an Aussie Shiraz with black plums, black cherries and raspeberries with chocolate. We suggest enjoying this within two years.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2006 Barrel Select Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 173 cases, 14.9% alc., $16
Outstanding! While its own vineyard was planted in 1978, this Everson, Wash., winery has built its quality red program via relationships with Eastern Washington growers. In this case, grapes from Crawford and Kiona came together for one of the Northwest’s best-priced Sangiovese. Black cherry, rose petal, forest from and lilac aromas tumble out past barrel notes of brown sugar, allspice, smoke, and leather. Dark plum pours out across the tongue with a bit of blackberries, and its bound by a juicy tannin structure. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:35 AM
Page 81
recent releases Tempranillo Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Tempranillo Southern Oregon, 1,035 cases, 14.4% alc., $35
Recommended. There’s a theme of big blackber-
ries and cherry pie throughout, with accents of milk chocolate and mincemeat. The jammy entry, wealth of acidity and knowledge of this Spanish variety means cellaring for at least three years will pay dividends. In the meantime, Earl and Hilda Jones suggest a pairing of saffron-influenced lamb with chevre and peppers stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes.
Airfield Estates 2007 Tempranillo Yakima Valley, 103 cases, 14.8% alc., $23
Recommended. The big Spanish red seems to be
cropping up throughout the Northwest, and this Prosser winery has sold through this vintage. It’s a burly and chewy wine, well-stocked with canned cherries, stewed plums, saddle leather and milk chocolate.
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Tempranillo Columbia Valley, 117 cases, 13.3% alc., $22
Excellent. A new era has dawned at the winery adjacent to the Gorge Amphitheater, and Freddy Arredondo is putting his stamp on his in-laws’ business. Big and ripe black cherry aromas fill the nostrils, joined by lavendar, molasses, black walnut and chalkboard dust. He’s managed to tame the beastly tannins of this Spanish variety in part by blending with Cabernet Franc (15%) while offering flavors of sour cherry candy, sweet chocolate, black olives, black tea tannins and a delivery of food-friendly acidity.
co, vanilla been and green peppercorn fill the nose. In the glass await notes of juicy bluberries and more pie cherries in a sublime and supple structure with racy acidity in the finish. Don’t bother with the cork screw. It’s guarded by a glass stopper.
Martin-Scott Winery
WINE REVIEWS
niche — vineyard-designate Zins from the Columbia Valley. This parcel in the Horse Heaven Hills supplied Ed Fus with the makings for aromas of pie cherries, tobacco, Graham cracker and cracked black pepper. It’s a selfish drink of sweet cherries, a wealth of acidity and a warm farewell of more cherry fruit leather and tobacco.
2006 Zinfandel
Three Angels
Columbia Valley, 72 cases, 16% alc., $23
2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Primitivo
Outstanding! Wenatchee winemaker Mike Scott
Columbia Valley, 83 cases, 15% alc., $20
tapped in the Milbrandt vineyards for this reasonably priced Zin. Black plums, milk chocolate, cedar, mint and root beer aromas pave into a bold sip of chocolatly blackberry syrup. There’s not a lot of complexity to the palate, but it’s easy to like, including the mint leaf and a nice grip of tannin in the finish.
Recommended. Another steamy Horse Heaven
Maryhill Winery
Hills site produced the fruit for the debut vintage of this winery based in the heart of Oregon’s Pinot Noir country. Strawberries, light cherry, allspice, rose hips and oregano fill the nose, and there’s more coming on the flavors. Intense cherries and strawberry/rhubarb acidity for a long and warm finish. Decanting and working the glass will allow for better exploration.
2006 Zinfandel
Other reds
Columbia Valley, 3,052 cases, 14.8% alc., $22
Excellent. Here’s one of the more affordable Zins
in the Northwest, and it’s worth tracking down. Big, sweet and complex whiffs of blueberries, Colombian coffee, milk chocolate and cinnamon toast gather up for more blueberries and spice flavors. Zesty tannins and a bite of cherry fruit leather appear in the back.
Three Angels 2007 Avery Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley, 188 cases, 15.4% alc., $24
Excellent. This new winery in Carlton, Ore., has a
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Barbera Columbia Valley, 165 cases, 13.8% alc., $22
Outstanding! Part of the focus at this central Washington destination is to create wines that pair well with chef Shauna Scriver’s menu at Tendrils. Here might be young vintner Freddy Arredondo’s most food-friendly wine. Subdued oak is a great start, and there’s plenty of fruit aromas with pie cherries, marionberries, rose petal, chalk and even a piece of Jolly Rancher
Sawtooth Winery 2005 Tempranillo Snake River Valley, 188 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Recommended. Spain’s answer to Cabernet
Sauvignon can be tough to tame. Notes of black cherries, brown sugar, coffee, tar, saddle leather and alfalfa include a structure with a fair bit of tannin and some smokiness.
Wind River Cellars 2006 Tempranillo Columbia Gorge, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $28
Outstanding! The Spanish variety that got its start in the Northwest at Abacela in the Umpqua Valley is catching on throughout. Ziegler Vineyards, not far from this winery in the shadow of Mount Adams, allows for aromas of cherries, sandalwood, cigar leaf, shoe leather and river rock. There’s an opulence in the front with more cherries and cedar, followed by more cigar leaf. Big acidity and late tannins are held up by a finish of chocolate cake drizzled with raspberry sauce.
Zinfandel/Primitivo Ferraro Cellar 2006 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley, 104 cases, 15.4% alc., $24
Excellent. Dick Ferraro makes his wine at Medici
Vineyards in Newberg, Ore., and the grapes came from Maryhill, Wash. Pie cherries, tobacW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
81
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
11:36 AM
Page 82
recent releases
grape candy. The same fruit spills across the palate, followed by a juicy and tart midpalate, hints of soy, bright acidity and reduced tannin. We thought of duck confit or turkey, but the menu and staff at Tendrils will suggest the seasonal fare that best goes with this wine.
Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2006 “Mo” Mourvèdre Washington, 114 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Outstanding! Warren Schutz excels with Syrah
and Viognier at this North Idaho winery, so it’s no surprise that he aces his first attempt at another Rhône variety. This release, via McKinley Springs in the Horse Heaven Hills, is named for resident pheasant that eats grapes seeds from crush pad. The drink yields tones of plums, cranberries, raspberries, Baker’s chocolate and leather with a bright acidity that should lend itself to turkey or pheasant.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Grenache Columbia Valley, 175 cases, 14.7% alc., $28
asparagus and raspberry amid the round and smooth structure, with a finish of blackberry and a crunch of the seed.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Petite Sirah Columbia Valley, 41 cases, 13.6% alc. $23
Recommended. The PS movement is slowly
catching on in the Northwest, and so lots tend to be small. Here’s a lighter-structured Petite Sirah from Milbrandt fruit. Plums and blueberries, cedar and spice form the base, with white strawberries in the finish.
Columbia Valley, 475 cases, 13.8% alc., $45
Excellent. The flagship wine for this remarkable Spokane property takes a claret blend of Conner Lee, two Dionysus blocks, Klipsun and estate Wahluke Slope vineyards, and then Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels nurtures it in French barrels for 36 months. The oak is prevalent throughout, as well as notes of blackberries, pie cherries and rose hips. Tannins give way to a lengthy finish of Boylan’s Natural Cane Cola.
Idaho, 225 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Recommended. Evidence of barrel aging shows in the notes of sarsaparilla, coffee and molasses, but plums and juicy raspberries shine among the bright acidity that is the charm of this food-friendly Italian grape. Suggested fare includes rich tomato-based dishes such as veal parmesan.
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2007 Lemberger Horse Heaven Hills, 120 cases, 14.2% alc., $26
Excellent. Estate fruit off Zephyr Ridge paved the
way for aromas of blueberries, stewed cherries and light toast. More blueberries and cream spill across the palate, along with a thin layer of minerality. There’s the lighter style and smoothness one expects from this variety. Some walnut and tobacco show in the finish, along with a cinching up of tannins.
2005 Terroir Series Andrews Vineyard Malbec
Red blends
Horse Heaven Hills, 140 cases, 15.4% alc., $22
Dinn’s team used Andrews & Rowell Vineyard for this wine. It features 100% new American oak, but the big plums and boysenberries stick around for a sturdy ride. On the palate, plums, pomegranate and cherries carry notes of brown sugar, green peppercorns and bittersweet chocolate.
Kettle Valley Winery 2006 Malbec Naramata Bench, 286 cases, 14.5% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. A blend of fruit from the Trovao
and estate King Drive vineyards, this warrants descriptors akin to a cherry pie, including notes of baked crust and vanilla ice cream. Complexity spills out to include notes of cooked
2005 Dionysus
2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Barbera
make some of the best Syrah in the Northwest, which begins to explain their success with other Rhône varieties. A quick whiff brings to mind raspberries, cherry cola, blueberries, a baked Norkotah potato, cilantro, bacon, cilantro and lime. The palate is richly focused on brambleberries — boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry. There’s a vanilla shake mouth feel with integrated tannins and a milk chocolate finish.
Excellent. Here marks the third vintage that Co
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars
Snake River Winery
Outstanding! Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson
Hogue Cellars
ardess may have contributed to the appeal, but the price and quality deserves attention. A tongue-wagging blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32), Syrah (11%), Malbec (3%), Sangiovese (2%), Cinsault (1%) and Counoise (1%) combines for a nose of blueberries and coffee, black cherry and cedar, and sun-dried tomato and cola. Flavors of opulent blackberries and chcoolate — accented by blueberries acidity and mild tannins — lead to a dinner mission of rosemary-rubbed lamb pops or barbecued beef ribs.
Airfield Estates 2007 Mustang Red Wine Yakima Valley, 195 cases, 15% alc., $28
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery 2006 Meritage Chelan County, 191 cases, 13.7% alc., $28
Excellent. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%)
and Merlot came from the estate blocks that are closest to Lake Chelan and are just a few hundred yards from the shore. It reminded one judge of a cool-climate Bordeaux with its subtlety, lower alcohol and enjoyable length. Descriptors include dried strawberry, pomegranate, cinnamon, green peppercorn and tobacco. Enjoy with steak joined by a green peppercorn sauce.
Benson Vineyards & Estate Winery 2006 Rhythm Chelan County, 387 cases, 14% alc., $26
(49%), Grenache (24%), Cinsault (13%), Counoise (9%) and Mourvèdre heads out on a mission that hones in on aromas of blueberry, plum, cordial cherries and menthol. It delivers a payload of purple blackberries, walnuts, bittersweet chocolate, citrus and resolved tannins.
Excellent. There’s strong hint of Rhône in this blend, which leads with Syrah (46%) and follows with Sangiovese (22%), Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Merlot. Notes of red currant, dried cherry, root beer, juniper berries, sandalwood and summer savory lead to flavors consisent with the nose. It’s jammy, juicy in structure with ample acidity notes of tobacco in the finish.
Airfield Estates
Cave B Estate Winery
2007 Vineyard Salute Bombshell Red
2006 Cuvée du Soleil Red Wine
Recommended. A blend of Rhône varieties Syrah
Yakima Valley, 631 cases, 14.6% alc., $16
Outstanding! A slightly risque cartoon of a stew-
Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 13.9% alc., $40
Recommended. A youthful blend of Cabernet
Climate Controlled Self-Storage rentals with 24-7 access. Dometic “Silent Cellar” wine cabinets for home storage. Unique Wine Accessories and Necessities. Steel Racks, Wood Bins, WineSafe Luggage & Lead-Free Crystal.
306 SE ASH ST. & MLK
503/231-1121 WWW.PORTLANDWINE.COM
82
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:36 AM
Page 83
recent releases Sauvignon (44%), Cabernet Franc (31%) and Merlot features light toast, sweet boysenberries and blueberries with the frontal tannins and ample acidity that rewards dinner guests at the estate restaurant among the rows of vines flanking this George, Wash., resort.
Daven Lore Winery
ings include osso bucco and roast beef.
2006 Red Tale Red Wine
Kettle Valley Winery
Washington, 100 cases, 14.3% alc., $25
2006 Old Main Red
Recommended. A tribute to their pound-puppy
Yakima Valley, 267 cases, 13.2% alc., $20
Ben, Cabernet Franc tells the tale of the blend with Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Blueberries, dried Montmorency cherries, cedar and oregano swirl around chalky tannins and lots of acidity with President plums in the finish.
Excellent. Named for one of winemaker Randy
Dusted Valley Vintners
Bonaventura’s faithful dogs, this is a bit of a mixed breed — Syrah (50%), Tempranillo (15%), Malbec (15%), Pinot Noir (10%) and Viognier — but it’s no mutt. There are fetching aromas of red currants, dusty cherries, plums, brown sugar, cedar, black olive and a hint of smokiness. They put you on the trail of a supple drink filled with pie cherries and currants on the entry. There’s bright acidity on the midpalate, and pomengranate and tobacco on the finish.
2006 BFM Red Wine
Coeur d’Alene Cellars
Columbia Valley, 360 cases, 13.6% alc. $20
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Faye Red Wine
2005 McKinley Springs Vineyard BDX Red Wine Washington, 126 cases, 14.5% alc., $32
Recommended. The BDX stands for Bordeaux,
and the blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Cab Sauv (34%) and Merlot from the Horse Heaven Hills is thick with notes of cordial cherries, Graham cracker, cola, portabello mushrooms and Starbucks liqueur. The winery suggests serving with smoky or grilled meats, and even Three-Chocolate Cranberry Cookies — a recipe listed on its Web site.
Columbia Crest Winery 2005 Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley, 6,500 cases, 14.2% alc., $34
Excellent. Select hand-picked lots from Cold Creek
Vineyard, the nearby Wahluke Slope and Columbia Crest’s home of the Horse Heaven Hills come together for deep purple production rich with plum sauce, blackberries and black Bing cherries. The 26 months in barrel for this Cabernet Sauvignon (48%), Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Franc shows off with wheat toast and chcoolate. There’s lots of structure now, and as a product of one of Washington’s greatest vintages, this wine will get better in the near term.
Cuillin Hills 2006 Claret Columbia Valley, 292 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Outstanding! Derek DesVoigne spends a lot of time
wheeling from Woodinville to vineyards in Eastern Washington — in this case Conner Lee, Sagemoor, Wahluke Slope and Weinbau — for the power and grace in his blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The aromatics include black cherries, cocoa powder, Old Dutch ketchup flavor potato chips and green olive. It’s all black cherries and milk chocolate on the attack in a juicy, smooth and balanced fashion.
Daven Lore Winery 2006 Cabernet-Syrah Washington, 100 cases, 14.6% alc., $25
Recommended. An even-split blend from this
young Prosser, Wash., winery produces notes of early crop Bing cherries, pomegranate, Douglas fir, nutmeg and cinnamon in a big and weighty structure. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
WINE REVIEWS
Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.7% alc., $38
Recommended. The blend of Bordeaux varieties
Naramata Bench, 980 cases, 14.6% alc., $35 CDN
Recommended. This blend of the five traditional
Bordeaux varieties is a product of the estate Old Main and King Drive parcels. There’s a greeting of black and pie cherries, blueberries, allspice, cola and celery, and then a spilling forth of cherry jam in the mouth. Red and black plums arrive on the midpalate, channeled by a structure where food-friendly acidity wins out over modest tannins.
refers to “blow your freakin’ mind,” and it’s a softer expression of blueberries, blackberries and cordial cherries with additional notes of chocolate cake, vanilla and black walnuts.
Le Chateau
Ferraro Cellar
Cellars is in Walla Walla, and Syrah (60%) leads this blend of Merlot (31%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark chocolaty oak tones are backed by hints of black currants, black cherries, plums, violets and tar. It’s more fruit-driven on the palate with black cherries, plums and some soy. Nice acidity balances the grip from tannin, with dried cherries in the finish.
2006 Mista Rosso Recommended. This Willamette Valley winery fre-
quents the Columbia Gorge for fruit. In this case, it’s Hillside Vineyard in The Dalles, Ore. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%) and Merlot has lots of entry points for food with notes of plums, strawberry leaf, mineral, green bell pepper, mincemeat and a whole-wheat biscuit. Try this with a Vietnamese pork dish.
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2006 Miss de Miner Wahluke Slope, 275 cases, 13.8% alc., $28
Outstanding! It’s no longer called Balsamroot
Winery, but Judy Phelps hasn’t changed her standards. She chose Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) and Merlot from Mike Wade’s RiverBend Vineyard and dropped them into 50% new oak. There’s not much digging needed to unearth aromas of plums, blueberries, Rainier cherries, milk chocolate, vanilla and Shredded Wheat cereal. Between the lips, there’s a match, with a smooth focus on black cherries and frontal tannins. But the hallmark for this wine is the slow and gradual finish of cherries, chocolate and plums that penetrate beyond the tannins.
2005 Artisan Blend Castle Red Wine Columbia Valley, 14.8% alc., $36
Recommended. This new side venture for Claar
Long Shadows Vintners 2006 Saggi Red Wine Columbia Valley, 1,725 cases, 14.6% alc., $45
Excellent. Italian winemaker Giovanni Folonari sources from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Yakima Valley for a Super Tuscan-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (42%), Sangiovese (39%) and Syrah that features aromas of strawberry fruit, black Bing cherries, toasted oak and portabello mushrooms. The structure is a lighter style that leads with juicy black cherries and follows with minerality in a midpalate that targets acidity over tannins. Boysenberries show up brightly in the finish.
Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Raven Ridge Red Columbia Valley, 223 cases, 15.1% alc., $22
Excellent. Jones Vineyard supplied both the
Heymann Whinery 2006 Cab-Merlot Yakima Valley, 46 cases, 13.6% alc., $20.
Excellent. Bob and Flossie Heymann have
gained a following for their fruit wines, but they do a nice job with Harold Pleasant’s grapes from Prosser. The aromatics feature warm chocolate and bell pepper, then it’s smooth and tasty black cherries and chocolate on the palate.
Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) and Syrah (39%). The older French and American barrels yield notes of Hershey’s With Almond chocolate bar and coffee to back the cherry aromas. Blueberry juice, a whipser of blackberries, espresso and more warm chocolate create a drink with a certain amount of elegance.
Page Cellars 2005 Preface Red Mountain, 480 cases, 14.2% alc., $37
Hillside Estate Winery
Recommended. A bold blend of Cabernet
2005 Reserve Series Mosaic
Sauvignon (90%), Merlot and Cab Franc from E&E Shaw Vineyards centers on cherries, Hershey’s Kisses and Wheat Thins.
Okanagan Valley, 700 cases, 13% alc., $38 CDN
Excellent. The flagship blend bottling of this win-
ery/bistro overlooking the Naramata Bench is a claret style of Merlot (45%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Malbec. Heavy toast notes showcase aromas of dark chocolate and wheat crackers, but black cherries and spearmint join in. It’s very plummy on the entry, backed by black cherries, a balanced structure and more plums and blueberries in the finish. Suggested pair-
Purple Hands 2007 Red Wine Oregon, 980 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Excellent. There’s a thumbprint of greatness in
this new project by Cody Wright, who grew up in the home to some of the world’s most acclaimed Pinot Noir — Ken Wright Cellars. The hand-picked, hand-sorted and hand-
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
83
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
11:47 AM
Page 84
recent releases
punched blend is Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Franc (5%) from Del Rio Vineyard in the Rogue Valley with Pinot Noir from Abbott Claim in theYamhill-Carlton District. Blackberries, cola and milk chocolate tones include food-friendly touches such as nice acidity and crushed leaf with a finish of dried strawberries.
Quady North
DeSeelhorst’s 75-15-10 blend is a fresh example. Chocolate-covered cherries, rhubarb, white strawberry, cola, citrus and cedar aromas evolve into cherry cola on the palate, then the chocolaty richness comes on like a gangbuster. It’s juicy, jammy and finished by cherries.
Sleeping Dog Wines 2005 Tail Wagger Red
2006 Arsenal Red Wine
Yakima Valley, 30 cases, 14.3% alc., $27
Rogue Valley, 60 cases, 14% alc., $39
Excellent. Benton City, Wash., attorney Larry
Recommended. Herb Quady elevated the wines at
Oates is on point with this tongue-lapping blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), Merlot (17%) and Malbec from nearby Buoy Vineyards. A sniff of plums, cherry taffy, blueberry jam, raspberries, cocoa and banana aromas puts you on the tasty trail of super-ripe black cherries, plums and blueberries amid sturdy tannins.
Troon Vineyards, and he’s venturing out with his own line in Jacksonville, Ore. He blends Cab Sauv from the Applegate Valley into Cab Franc of Rogue Valley, and food-loving “Francophiles” will relish this offering of Montmorency cherries, espresso, anise, sandalwood, red bell pepper, celery leaf and a wealth of acidity.
Sawtooth Winery
2006 The Boot Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.2% alc., $19
Snake River Valley, 75 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Brad Pintler deserves high praise for this Italian blend of Primitivo (24%), Nebbiolo (20%), Barbera (19%), Sangiovese (19%) and Dolcetto (18%). One gets the sense of its pedigree in the nose, with light cherry, cedar, light toast and herbal tones of parsley and collard greens. The quaffable drink leads with sweet and sour cherries, then it’s milk chocolate on the midpalate, but the fruit hangs on. Easy tannins make this a good transition wine for those new to reds.
Excellent. Elsewhere in the Walla Walla area, a wine of this merit would be in the $30 range. Regardless, this 50/50 blend of Barbera and Sangiovese from Lonesome Spring, Pepper Bridge and underrated Candy Mountain in Richland, Wash., spins out aromas of white strawberries, rhubarb, cranberries, soy sauce and green peppercorns. The bright red fruit unveils itself on the tongue with hints of Craisins and pie cherries, backed by a pleasingly long chocolate undertone. Acidity easily wins out vs. tannins for lots of Italian-themed dishes.
Sawtooth Winery
Thurston Wolfe Winery
2003 Elevation
2006 Doctor Wolfe’s Family Red
Snake River Valley, 139 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Washington, 15.0% alc., $16
Recommended. This proprietary blend of Syrah
Excellent. Wade Wolfe holds a Ph.D from the University of California-Davis, and the good doctor checks in again with a delicious prescription of Syrah (39%), Primitivo (20%), Lemberger (19%), Petite Sirah (12%) and Zinfandel. It dispenses a huge dose of strawberries, black cherries, leather and chcoolate cake. A rich and balanced structure provides desired results.
(35%), Petit Verdot (22%), Tempranillo (17%), Malbec (17%) and Primitivo represents varieties from Rhône, Bordeaux, Spain and Italy. The diversity is reflected in the wine, which opens with aromas of blueberries, vanilla bean, stewed plums, tomato paste, dill and sandpaper. The Syrah seems to step to the front on the palate with nice blueberries leading, backed by plums, black cherries and toasty oak. A couple drips of meat juice in the finish helps this pair well with a steak.
Sawtooth Winery 2006 Terra Rouge Snake River Valley, 80 cases, 14.7% alc., $25
Excellent. Corus CEO Ken McCabe long has been
involved with the Rhône Rangers group, and this blend is a full-on tribute with six varieties — Mourvèdre (39%), Syrah (31%), Cinsault (22%), Grenache (5%), Counoise (2%) and Viognier (1%). Heck, why not some Muscardin and Picpoul Noir, too? Beautiful cherries tones in the nose include vanilla, dried strawberries and green peppercorns. More black cherries await on the rich and smooth palate, including nice acidity and some warm cherry pie in the finish.
Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre Idaho, 315 cases, 13.3% alc., $18
Outstanding! Many believe that Idaho’s future is
best tied to Rhône varieties, and Scott
84
Westport Winery 2007 Jetty Cat Red Wine Washington, 490 cases, 12% alc., $25
Excellent. This up-and-coming winery in Aberdeen, Wash., bottles more than 20 different wines, but here’s its largest single production. Mature oak accents, but doesn’t detract from the nose of strawberry pie, blueberries and Graham craker. It’s more of the same on the palate, joined by raspberry and lingonberries, livened up by that berry acidity and a bit of seed tannin.
William Church Winery 2006 Bishop’s Blend Columbia Valley, 424 cases, 14.3% alc., $19
Stella Fino
2006 Alta Terra Red Wine Outstanding! It means “high land” in Italian, and
cherry juices up the palate in velvety form with hints of a mocha and blackberries, finished with enjoyable touches of crushed leaf and eucalyptus.
Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Bello Rossa Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 14.8% alc. $36
Recommended. A Super Tuscan-style wine with Sangiovese (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon features aromas of black currants, cedar, chocolate, coffee and — ironically — mortadella. It’s stuffed with flavors of black currant jam and raspberry tea, structured around acidity rather than tannins, and pie cherries in the finish. Suggested fare includes artisan pizza topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil and grated Pecorino.
Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Cuvée Washington, 740 cases, 14.3% alc., $28
Outstanding! Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri could have crafted it as a classic blend of Bordeaux varieties — Merlot (38%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (13%), Petit Verdot (7%), Carménère (5%), Malbec (5%) — but they chose a key blending additive in Syrah (5%). Sourcing from eight sites in four appellations produced aromas of black cherries, cigar lleaf, coffeed, cedar and green peppercorns. The black
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
Recommended. This Woodinville, Wash., winery
offers a blend that tickles the nose with cherry, dark plum, coconut and cocoa powder notes. It follows through with tasty cherry and spicy plum flavors amid a warm and chalky finish.
Whites Chardonnay Airfield Estates 2007 Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 268 cases, 15.5% alc., $20
Excellent. It’s unusual, but refreshing, to see a reserve-style Chardonnay such as this under a screwcap. Aromas of starfruit, pear and lemon dominate much of the French oak influence. Pear leads the aforementioned fruit on the palate, but creaminess and butterscotch arrive at the midpoint. Lemon juice acidity picks up for a lengthy finish, which exhibits vanilla extract.
Bonair Winery 2006 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Chardonnay Rattlesnake Hills, 95 cases, 13.1% alc., $20
Recommended. Gail Puryear planted these vines
in 1980, and his reserve style showcases an investment in French oak. Toasted oak, vanilla and white stone fruit aromas are followed by the same flavors featuring nice balance and Granny Smith peel in the finish.
Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 13.9% alc., $20
Excellent. In his previous life, Freddy Arredondo
was a globe-trotting chef. His wines are exceptionally food-worthy, including this rich and balanced Chardonnay. It opens with apricots, pear, sandalwood and toasted oak that’s reminiscent of Cherrios. The drink spills across with more pear and white peach flavors, a line of minerality in the midpalate and citrus in the finish.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Indian Wells Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 54,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $18
Excellent. Typically, the Indian Wells program is a fruit-forward style and not necessarily dedicated to its namesake vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. In this case, the nose of this Chardonnay is quite toasty with butterscotch, lanolin, vanilla and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
11:48 AM
Page 85
recent releases some pear. It’s much more fruity on the palate with sweet pineapple, apricot and butterscotch up front, midpalate acidity, and a nice long finish of butterscotch. Pair this with pork or poultry seasoned with thyme or tarragon.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Old Vine Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 189 cases, 14.1% alc., $30
Outstanding! The invitation at this Walla Walla
winery is to “crack that cap,” and here’s another example of a serious wine guarded by screwcap. Aromas include pineapple, dusty pears, citrus, minerality and a touch oak. A creamy character awaits on the pour with more orchard and tropical fruit, getting a lift of lime on the back of the palate. This nearly flawless Chardonnay would reward scallops, bacon-wrapped canteloupe and a shrimp cocktail.
Gordon Brothers Family Estate 2007 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.7% alc., $23
Recommended. Organically farmed fruit north of
Pasco, Wash., was taken off Sept. 18. While 20 barrels were fermented, only 10 were selected for this. Citrus, sandalwood and vanilla aromas show signs of the French oak. Those barrels emerge more extensively on the palate in a creamy and round fashion. Nice late acidity lifts the apples and pears. Suggested fare includes grilled halibut with a fruit salsa.
Holmes Harbor Cellars 2006 Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 91 cases, 12.9% alc., $24
Recommended. Greg Martinez invested nine
months in French barrels, and it proved profitable for this new Whidbey Island winemaker. There’s indeed oak in the bouquet, but there are plenty of hints at pears, orange and lemon. A buttery entry quickly yields to unsweetened lemon for a snappy midpalate, joined by tangerine and pear. A bit of toast at the end bodes well for cheese and crackers or clam dip.
Left Coast Cellars 2006 Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 940 cases, 14.3% alc., $24
Excellent. Here’s a rising young operation in
Rickreall, Ore., that’s beginning to consistently hit its stride. Dijon clones 75, 95 and 96 come together for a Chardonnay that leans away from oak, beginning in the nose with features of apples, pears, honeydew melon, a twist of lemon and wheat crackers in the corner. There’s a tingling blast of kumquat on the palate, combining tartness with sweetness. Then comes pineapple and lengthy citrus acidity with the pith on the finish.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Pepetua Chardonnay
pears and banana before giving way to foodfriendly citrusy acidity.
Three Rivers Winery 2007 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,305 cases, 14% alc., $19
Outstanding! Gulpable might be how British wine
critic Jancis Robinson would describe this blend of fruit from Bacchus, Champoux, Weinbau and Sundance. The nose hints at oranges, limes, honeysuckle and lemon pepper. It boasts a rich and smooth entry as the citrusy acidity picks up on the midpalate with soft peaches in the finish.
Tsillan Cellars 2006 Estate Barrel Select Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 403 cases, 13.4% alc., $25
Excellent. The vineyards at the Lake Chelan showpiece winery are coming into their own. Here, the oak embraces rather than overwhelms the starfruit and lemon zest nuances. The palate takes you on a ride, starting with a bit of sweetness with fresh Bartlett pears in a very light syrup, heightened by citrusy acidity in the midpalate, and finished with apples and oaky tones.
Westport Winery 2007 Shorebird Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 11.0% alc., $18
Excellent. This fledgling Western Washington win-
ery produced a delicious Chardonnay from its debut vintage, opening with scents of Mandarin oranges, grapefruit, pears, apricot, marshmallow and lemon zest. Lots of flavors await with ripe pears and honeysuckle in a nice viscosity. Granny Smith tartness and citrus pith show up in the finish, suggesting a pairing with a shrimp omelette.
Woodward Canyon Winery 2007 Chardonnay Washington, 841 cases, 14.1% alc., $39
Outstanding! In previous years, Rick Small
flashed the French oak more so than with this vintage, so the results of this 50/50 blend from Celilo Vineyard and estate grapes are fruit-forward. Cherry blossoms, dusty apples, pineapple and a bit of passionfruit only begin to describe the bouquet. Inside, there’s a theme of rich pineapple and citrus character, making for a juicy and balanced drink. Bright acidity on the midpalate harkens a remarkable explosion of the same fruit in the remarkable finish. Here’s a Chardonnay that would be superb with fish, including tilapia served with chile lime butter.
Zimri Cellars 2006 Yamhill Vineyard Chardonnay Yamhill-Carlton District, 183 cases, 13.5% alc., $18
Recommended. Jason Bull elevated the profile of
David Hill Vineyards & Winery and now has launched his line in Newberg, Ore. His debut includes this approachable and round wine with notes of pineapples, lemons and applesauce.
Okanagan Valley, 950 cases, 13% alc., $35 CDN
Riesling
Excellent. The pewter label adds a touch of class
to this most expensive white produced by one of British Columbia’s showpiece wineries. Osoyoos Vineyard Estate, just minutes north of Oroville, Wash., allowed John Simes to coax aromas of canteloupe, pears, banana, spiced apple, a dusty road and warm buttered toast. It’s creamy and viscous on the entry with more W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
WINE REVIEWS
delightful and fruitful Riesling from a multi-generation farming family in Prosser. Aromas of sugared pink grapefruit, Orange Crush soda, honeysuckle and lychee don’t disappoint your tongue. In fact, think of an adult Orange Crush with spritely acidity to balance the midpoint sweetness (1.9% residual sugar) in a bright fashion.
Pentâge Winery 2007 Riesling Okanagan Valley, 230 cases, 13% alc., $19 CDN
Recommended. Classic Riesling notes of Granny
Smith apple, lemons and petrol are accented by pulsating citrus of sweet pink grapefruit. It’s finished quite dry and should pair well with a Crab Louie joined by homemade Thousand Island dressing.
Westport Winery 2007 Elk River Riesling Columbia Valley, 288 cases, 11.0% alc., $22
Outstanding! A tribute to the Grays Harbor estuary on the Washington coast, here’s a remarkable Riesling from winemaker Dan Wood. Beautiful fruity aromas include papaya, sectioned orange, lemon, honeysuckle and a bit of diesel. There’s sweet orchard fruit on the palate, leading with Pink Lady apples and canned Bartlett pears with light syrup, all with a perfectly balanced structure for an off-dry Riesling.
Pinot Gris King Estate 2007 Domaine Pinot Gris Oregon, 4,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $25
Excellent. Since 1995, Bill Kremer has made wine at this sustainably farmed vineyard on this showpiece near Eugene. The designation “Domaine” means these grapes are off the estate. Of 72 Pinot Gris blocks, only six contribute to this fruitforward offering that broadcasts aromas of apricot, tangerine, pineapple, tree-ripe pear and apple and lemon zest. Pleasant sweetness of apple, apricot and pear is on the entry with midpalate acidity, finished by apple peel and citrus pith on the finish. Enjoy with lemon chicken.
Left Coast Cellars 2007 The Orchards Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 590 cases, 13% alc., $18
Excellent. Luke McCollom got his education in California and has been working these vines and the wines nearly from the start in 2003. His control on both ends allows for aromas of grapefruit, peaches, apple box and green olives. It’s a bright wine on the palate, thanks to Golden Delicious apples and Anjou pears flavors, followed by mouthwatering grapefruit to balance the sweetness and some jasmine in the finish.
Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Amavi Cellars 2007 Semillon Columbia Valley, 576 cases, 13.9% alc., $20
Olsen Estates
Recommended. Toasted bread, butterscotch and
2007 Estate Riesling Yakima Valley, 420 cases, 12.6% alc., $18
Outstanding! Rising popularity of this German variety is bringing the spotlight back to Washington’s oldest appellation, and this is a
baked Fuji apple aromas beget a beginning of more apples and some tangerines on the palate. Notes of Rainier cherries impart sweet smoothness on the midpalate, followed by citrus pith on the finish.
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
85
72-89 Recent Releases
6/3/09
5:12 PM
WINE REVIEWS
Page 86
recent releases
Kettle Valley Winery
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
2007 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Proprietor’s Limited Release Marsanne
Okanagan Valley, 362 cases, 13.5% alc., $24 CDN
Yakima Valley, 41 cases, 12.7% alc., $20
Recommended. Naramata Bench vineyards
Recommended. Rhône-style whites that lead with
Barber and the estate King Drive were blended for a delicious drink of lemons and sweet pineapples that’s creamy on the attack, then the acidity builds from the midpalate on back where dried apricots and more pineapple show. Enjoy this with pineapple and back bacon pizza or some pasta served with a cream sauce.
Marsanne are rare in the Northwest, but this established winery near Bellingham, Wash., assembled fruit from Destiny Ridge and Crawford vineyards. Peaches, apricot preserves and Bosc pear notes lead the way, with hints of almonds, lychee, jasmine in the background.
Mission Hill Family Estate
Pentâge Winery 2008 Gewürztraminer
2006 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
Okanagan Valley, 130 cases, 13% alc., $18 CDN
Okanagan Valley, 5,700 cases, 12.0% alc., $20
Outstanding! This winery grows its grapes and
Excellent. While the winery is Kelowna, B.C.,
crafts its wine while overlooking picturesque Skaha Lake near Penticton, B.C. Mouthwatering aromas of tangerine, apricot, pear and apple include baking spices and a light touch of petrol. Stone fruit takes over on the palate with some minerality at the midpoint, then comes a beautiful flourish of lemons and lime in the crips finish.
these grapes came from sites just north of the Canadian/U.S. border near Oliver and Osoyoos. There’s a steady theme of orange oil throughout, backed by grapefruit, pineapple, lemon zest and some grassiness. That citrusy acidity hangs in the finish. Enjoy with a salad featuring arugula, endive and walnut vinaigrette.
Viognier
Westport Winery 2007 Grays Harbor Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 11% alc., $24
Cinder Wines
Excellent. It’s unusual to see a Gewürz priced
2008 Viognier
beyond the teens, but this offering should have a following. Pineapple is the leading aromatic, backed by orange, pears, apples and dried apricots. Frontal sweetness makes this a quaffer, with more orange and Juicy Fruit gum flavors on the entry. There’s complexity from lavender, jasmine and a bit of spearmint in the background.
Snake River Valley, 260 cases 14% alc., $17
Excellent. Melanie Krause has matched the quali-
ty of her inaugural vintage with this blend of fruit from Sawtooth, Williamson and the organic Rocky Fence vineyards near Emmett. Its floral nose shows off apple blossoms, apricots, honey and just a hint of the partial barrel treatment. Tangerines and dried apricots fill the mouth with midpalate fruit and acidity, which funnels into a pleasing and long, buttery finish. She suggests pairing this with Asian fare, pork, quiche or seafood.
Pentâge Winery 2007 Viognier Okanagan Valley, 130 cases, 13% alc., $23 CDN
Outstanding! Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie first
planted their Lakeside Road winery in Penticton in 1997, and their efforts have firmly taken root. Alluring aromas are akin to ambrosia salad with an extra spoonful of Mandarin orange and Thompson seedless grapes, backed by lemon, lime, jasmine, minerality and fresh-cut grass. It’s big and distinctive on the palate, too, with flavors of Granny Smith apple, Asian pear, gooseberry and river rock. Bright midpalate acidity leads to a finish of limes and grapefruit pith. Enjoy this on the patio with an albacore tuna sandwich and a kosher pickle.
Other whites Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2008 Albariño Umpqua Valley, 1,106 cases, 13.3% alc., $18
Recommended. Earl Jones’ successful research
regarding the viability of growing Tempranillo in southern Oregon allowed him to prove the same with this Spanish white. Granny Smith apples, grapefruit, flint, coconut, lychee and lemon zest tones surround the food-friendly structure of this remarkably crisp drink. Enjoy this with seafood dish or cheese and crackers with guava paste.
86
White blends Airfield Estates 2007 Lightning White Yakima Valley, 170 cases, 15.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Family vines near Black Rock Creek
were in just their third leaf and cropped to a half-ton per acre, which accounts for the level of ripeness in this blend of Chardonnay (52%), Viognier (32%) and Roussanne. Nearly a year spent in neutral French oak explains the aromas of butterscotch candy, banana, dried apricot and pineapple. There is more pineapple and apricot in rich fashion across the palate with some bubblegum flavors and just a bit of citrus pith.
Le Chateau Winery 2007 Artisan Blend Castle Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 13.9% alc., $24
Outstanding! Although winemaker Bruno Corneaux claims this blend of Sauvignon Blanc (80%) and Semillon was meant to age, it will be difficult to wait because it’s so drinkable now. The wideranging bouquet spans apples and citrus, Juicy Fruit gum, cotton candy, pear served with brie, alder smoke and just a hint of Euphoria by Calvin Klein. There’s a sweet entry of ambrosia salad with grapefruit and apples, then a tasty oak sensation akin to cotton candy melting in your mouth. Lingering acidity is that of a Granny Smith apple with a trace of lime in the finish.
Thurston Wolfe Winery 2007 PGV Washington, 13.5% alc., $16
Excellent. Yakima Valley legend Wade Wolfe
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
made the name easy to remember, the blend easy to like and the wine easy to get at by putting it under screwcap. His blend of Pinot Gris (43%) and Viognier (52%) includes a bit of Muscat Blanc (5%) to enhance the aromatics, which feature peaches, apples and lime. The rich and creamy entry of orange and pineapple achieves balance with refreshing acidity and a layer of minerality that’s capped by a spoonful of lime sherbert. Suggested pairings include seafood with pasta or a fish taco at Anthony’s.
Twisted Tree Vineyards and Winery 2008 Viognier-Roussanne Okanagan Valley, 480 cases, 14.5% alc., $22 CDN
Outstanding! Progress gives tourists more reasons to pull into the border town of Osoyoos, B.C., and this young winery belonging to Chris and Beata Tolley demands a drive east through town. This blend of Rhône varieties unleashes a wealth of Key lime, apple and pear aromas with a bit of butterscotch in the back. Lime — envision the pulp and the rind — dominates the flavors, bringing with it huge acidity before a splash of 7Up sweetness in the finish.
Westport Winery 2007 Bordello Blonde Columbia Valley, 160 cases, 11% alc., $20
Outstanding! The blending Gewürztraminer (75%) and Riesling sounds like a good idea, and it’s carried out well by this new winery on the Washington coast. Pears, tangerine, orange Creamcicle and Mike’s Hard Lemonade aromas carry onto the citrusy entry in a juicy fashion with an undertone of Pink Lady apple then orange zest in the finish.
Westport Winery 2007 Lighthouse White Washington, 296 cases, 11% alc., $26
Recommended. An off-dry blend (2.9% residual
sugar) of Riesling and Gewürztraminer delivers hints of Mandarin orange, dried pineapple, tangerine and lip-smacking margarita mix.
Sparkling wine Icicle Ridge Winery 2006 Sparkling Syrah Washington, 100 cases, 12.5% alc., $95
Recommended. From Leavenworth comes what is believed to be the most expensive sparkling wine ever produced in the state. Price aside, it’s a tasty, albeit unusual, release featuring aromas of pomegranate, cranberries, blood orange and beet juice. While the bubbles don’t percolate much in the glass, there’s a good frothiness on the palate with a blast of black cherry and raspberry flavors. It’s just a touch sweet, which is probably what you’d want with a red sparkler, yet it’s backed up by lots of acidity.
Westport Winery NV Rapture of the Deep Washington, 168 cases, 12.5% alc., $25
Outstanding! Here’s a carbonated wine made from cranberries, but there’s more beyond that berry. Aromas include strawberries, cherries, a bit of pech, a slice of banana and even a split-up Flintsone vitamin. Cranberry tartness, citrusy W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
12:00 PM
Page 87
recent releases acidity and that bit of spritz make it supremely balanced and a fun adornment to a table of hot wings in the summer and turkey at Thanksgiving.
Dessert wines
receive backing from a little Riesling for a tasty dessert wine (12% residual sugar) that also brings thoughts of strawberries and cherries. It’s soft in structure with a touch of golden raisin in the farewell.
WINE REVIEWS
for the concentrated notes, starting with Red Delicious apple, caramel, honeysuckle, maple nut, candy corn and the classic petrol aroma. What awaits is a very smooth and round entry of baked apple and caramel with a viscous apricot jelly in the midpalate, and candied apple in the finish.
Abiqua Wind Vineyard
Westport Winery
2007 Sweet Tiffany Gewürztraminer
NV Duckleberry Grunt
Williamette Valley, 125 cases, 14.5% alc., $18
Washington, 376 cases, 11% alc., $24
Pentâge Winery
Outstanding! Abiqua Creek provides drinking
Excellent. Duckleberry Swim is rather obscure
2007 Slow Vineyards Ice Wine
water to much of Silverton, Ore., and Pete Buffington makes something else pretty good to drink in this Salem suburb. Grapefruit spice in the nose is a giveaway of the variety, and this also is joined by tangerine, apricot marmalade and honeysuckle notes. The flavors are loaded with sweet apricots and bold Texas pink grapefruit, more honeysuckle and hints of botrytis in the midpalate, and some citrus pith in the finish. It’s sweet (11.5% residual sugar) and delicious all the way through. It should marry well with a simple fresh-fruit dessert or over ice cream.
Muppets character, and this base of Gewürztraminer from the Columbia Valley is partially disguised by a blend of blueberry and huckleberry. There’s lusciousness with the sweetness (9.9% residual sugar), yet it’s tangy and with enough tannin structure for balance. A lot of folks will enjoy this fanciful offering, but it might not appeal to many serious wine drinkers.
Okanagan Valley, 40 cases, 10.5% alc., $35 CDN
Lopez Island Winery NV Blackberry Wine Washington, 45 cases, 11% alc., $20
Excellent. Certified organic berries, reportedly
only slightly cultivated and grown on the island, send out notes of all sorts of fruit — including cranberries and pomegranates — but also lilac and rosehips. There’s sweetness (5.5% residual sugar), but there’s good balance and a spread of strawberry jelly in the finish.
Lopez Island Winery NV Organic Raspberry Wine Washington, 120 cases, 10% alc., $20
Recommended. It’s definitely raspberry with a bit
of leafiness and mint for complexity and balance the sweetness (5.75% residual sugar). Sadly, Brent Charnley lost his source for the berries as flooding devasted this Snoqualmie Valley plot farmed by the Broer family.
Mission Hill Family Estate
Westport Winery NV Message in a Bottle Washington, 257 cases, 12% alc., $19
Recommended. It’s made from blackberries, but it could be mistaken for a cherry or maywine with its tones of woodruff and Dr Pepper. There’s a bit of tannin and brown sugar in the background, as well as a lot of sweetness (9% residual sugar).
Westport Winery NV Red Sky At Night Dessert Wine Washington, 468 cases, 12% alc., $29
Excellent. Raspberries and chocolate make for a
pleasant pairing, and here they are in a drinkable for for adults. Yet, it’s reminiscent of a raspberry Tootsie Pop, both the hard outside and crunchy inside. That goes for the aromas and flavors. It’s not cloying, and the chocolate is persistent and nicely integrated through to the finish of chocolate cake with raspberry filling.
Ice wine
Recommended. Grapes off the spectacular
Excellent. There’s a baseline of tangerine, peach
Naramata Ranch Vineyard produced a dessert wine with intoxicating aromas of apricot, baked apple, honey and Bananas Foster. There’s more of the same on the sweet palate (20% residual sugar), along with peaches on a whole wheat pancake, mango and a finish of apple sauce.
Yakima Valley, 16% alc., $13
Recommended. As a tribute to his wife, Rebecca
Yeaman, Wade Wolfe remains 100% devoted to Orange Muscat from Lonesome Springs Vineyard near Red Mountain for this delicious drink of apricots, honey, apple pie spice and Lemonhead hard candy. Residual sugar is 10%, and suggested fare for the fortified wine includes orchard fruit pies.
Westport Winery
Mission Hill Family Estate
Excellent. There’s no need for cryogenics to
make ice wine in Idaho, as this early November harvest from the estate Sawtooth Vineyard reveals. It’s hugely aromatic featuring apricots, peaches, sugared pink grapefruit, Creme Brulée, honeysuckle, a bit of clover and even a dusting of grandma’s facial powder. Those apricots become concentrated on the palate with more clover and baking spices. The residual sugar (16.9%) is balanced, and the structure is more subtle than some ice wines, which should allow it to pair nicely with a cheese cake.
Westport Winery
process that not many established wineries are willing to deal with, and yet, this year-old winery included it as one of its more than two dozen offerings. There’s lots of baking spice in the aromas, along with honey, lime and petrol. The big delivery of fruit is on the honeyed palate with baked apple, pineapple, apricot and Cling peach flavors, giving way to a margarita mix finish of acidity to balance the residual sugar (12%).
Port-style
2007 Reserve Riesling Ice Wine Okanagan Valley, 900 cases, 9.5% alc., $60 CDN
Excellent. Harvest came after the first of the year
at the Westbank site near the winery. A nose of marshmallow, butterscotch, honey, apricot, dandelion, vanilla bean and apple fills the imagination. The key to a well-crafted ice wine is acidity, and there’s a laser beam of it on the entry of oranges and pineapples. Next, McIntosh apples and peaches float in the medium viscosity, then the acidity returns to linger.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Select Lot Collection Riesling Ice Wine
NV A Little Wild Blackberry Riesling
Okanagan Valley, 9% alc., $80 CDN
Columbia Valley, 419 cases, 12% alc., $24
Excellent. Harvest for this vineyard in Oliver,
Recommended. A lot of regional blackberries
B.C., took place in December, which accounts
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
Snake River Valley, 460 cases, 10.1% alc., $30
Excellent. Producing an ice wine is a sticky
2005 Reserve Vidal Ice Wine
Okanagan Valley, 9% alc., $30 CDN
2005 Sweet Rebecca’s Dessert Wine
2006 Reserve Gewürztraminer Ice Wine
Columbia Valley, 83 cases, 11% alc., $55
Mission Hill Family Estate
2005 Reserve Late Harvest Riesling
Thurston Wolfe Winery
Sawtooth Winery
2007 Shiver Me Timbers Riesling Ice Wine
Okanagan Valley, 600 cases, 9% alc., $50 CDN
and mango throughout this dessert offering, with aromas also including honeysuckle, beeswax, fresh-cut grass and a fistful of Cracker Jack. Peaches and mangos dominate the palate with balanced sweetness (14.5% residual sugar), medium viscosity and a piece of candy corn in the finish.
Outstanding! Paul Gardner created a masterful blend of equal parts of Chardonnay, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier from this site on the Naramata Bench. Apple pie with spice dominates the aromas, but there are also tempting notes of nectarine, honeysuckle and maple. Lip-smacking acidity hits you upon entry, unveiling flavors of peach cobbler, vanilla bean and chips of glazed maple syrup. It’s a medium level of viscosity, pleasantly sweet (15% residual sugar) and refreshed with a finish of juicy pears.
Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Port-style Southern Oregon, 211 cases, 19% alc., $25
Outstanding! Three of the past four vintages Earl
Jones has earned our top rating with his dessert wine, and he blends Portuguese varieties Tinta Roriz (31%) Tempranillo clone 1 (31%), Bastardo (19%), Tinta Amarela (10%), Tinta Cao (7%) and Touriga Naçional (2%). Rich blueberry seems to be the theme with Abacela’s Port-style, and here’s no exception with cherries, milk chocolate, anise, coffee and tobacco not far in the background. It’s remarkably balanced with the residual sugar (9%) and warming alcohol expertly integrated.
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
87
72-89 Recent Releases
6/1/09
WINE REVIEWS
12:05 PM
Page 88
recent releases
Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Abiqua Wind Vineyard
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2007 Caleb Knorr Pinot Gris
2007 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvingon Blanc
Williamette Valley, 300 cases, 13.5% alc., $15
Horse Heaven Hills, 9,500 cases, 13.3% alc., $15
Outstanding! If there’s a family name associat-
Recommended. Estate fruit gives off aromas of
ed with a Pete Buffington wine, then it’s likely to be a worthy wine. Dusty apple, citrus and cotton candy aromas drizzle into freshsqueezed orange juice and grapefruit flavors with charming sweetness and a pleasing structure.
starfruit, dusty apple, pineapple, petrol and some minerality. It’s more apples and Mandarin oranges in the flavor with some lime in the finish. Suggested fare includes mussels, halibut or light dishes incorporating goat chese.
Capstone Cellars
Columbia Crest
2008 Viognier
2007 Grand Estates Chardonnay
Yakima Valley, 75 cases, 12.9% alc., $14
Columbia Valley, 160,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $11
Recommended. Fruit from the Northwest’s oldest
Recommended. It’s speaks to the devotion of this
appellation has been central to the success of this Longview, Wash., winery. Here’s an offering that’s fruit-forward with peach, apricots and dusty apples notes. Bright acidity and tart gooseberries in the finish make for a delicious food wine.
operation that each barrel in this massive production was stirred by hand. The results are delicate scents of dusty apple, peach blossoms and candy corn, followed by flavors of pear, starfruit, pineapple and citrus — both juice and the pith. The real sense of the neutral oak shows with the vanilla cream in the finish.
Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Viognier Yakima Valley, 182 cases, 14.2% alc., $13
Columbia Crest Winery
Recommended. Granny Smith apples, gooseber-
2007 Grand Estates Riesling
ry, hints of Limeade Juice and just a touch of residual sugar (0.9%) give this a bit more food-friendly zip than many Viogniers.
Recommended. Notes of sweet pineapples,
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 407,950 cases, 13.7% alc., $13
Recommended. So you think people don’t drink
Chardonnay any longer? These folks wouldn’t make this much if they don’t sell it, and they should have no trouble with this presentation of Golden Delicious apple, apricot, lemon peppe and zesty lime sendoff.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 100,000 cases, 13% alc., $13
Outstanding! Here’s arguably the best effort ever with this variety by the Northwest’s industry leader. Bob Bertheau used Viognier (7%) to accent lively aromas of tangerine, Mandarin orange, fresh-cut apple and lemon meringue pie. Inside is yellow unsweetened grapefruit and that slice of lemon meringue pie with lots of citrusy acidity. Next comes a touch of butterscotch and a finish of lemon yogurt. Enjoy with halibut topped by a cream or lemon sauce.
Columbia Valley, 40,000 cases, 12% alc., $11
home-canned Bartlett pears and apricots are presented in an off-dry style (2% residual sugar) that will be greeted at summer picnics and Sunday brunch.
Excellent. This historic property in Forest Grove, Ore., now regularly is showing up on our radar for quality. Yellow grapefruit, Golden Delicious apple, gooseberry, orange, lemongrass and mineral aromas don’t mislead. Bright citrus notes continue in the mouth to include orange bitters and orange peel with plenty of acidity and pronounced minerality in the background.
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Estate Riesling Willamette Valley, 211 cases, 13.1% alc., $14
Excellent. Oregon winemakers continue to succeed with this German variety, and Jason Bull made this in a slightly off-dry style. The bouquet features jasmine, diesel, petrol and ReaLemon juice aromas, followed by flavors of apples and more jasmine and bit of lemon zest in the finish to balance the sugar (1.8%).
Desert Wind Winery 2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Viognier Excellent. Estate fruit helped produce a remarkably aromatic wine that’s peachy with other sweet notes of grapefruit, orange blossom and cotton candy, and yet there’s a whiff of buttery and vanilla notes — the sign of a mere 3% of the blend that lived 3 months in new French oak. Yellow grapefruit, lime, a bit of butterscotch, citrus pith and mouthwatering acidity make this screwcapped wine delicious with herbed chicken or grilled shrimp.
Columbia Valley, 30,000 cases, 13% alc., $8
Excellent. This blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and friends tickles the nose with a flora sensation of honeysuckle, jasmine, lavender and rose petals as well as orchard fruit and fresh corn on the cob. It’s akin to Applets and Cotlets on the palate with more jasmine, shaved almond and a bit of residual sugar (1.2%). The winemaking skills are apparent as neither the oak nor alcohol stands out in the smooth structure.
Duck Pond Cellars 2007 Desert Wind Vineyard Chardonnay
David Hill Vineyards & Winery
Wahluke Slope, 19,665 cases, 15.0% alc., $12
2007 Estate Pinot Blanc
Recommended. Here’s a case where a little oak goes a long way with aromas of fresh-cut alder, crisp asparagus and river rock with lively flavors of citrus, Asian pear, starfruit and some toasted oak for a package that should reward a bowl of steamed mussels.
Willamette Valley, 171 cases, 12.4% alc., $15
Outstanding! Some debate the merits of this grape in Oregon, but these vines — planted in 1965 — are provide a defense. Jason Bull helped create aromas of canned pineapple
Van Duzer Vineyards
88
Willamette Valley, 588 cases, 12.4% alc., $15
2007 Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine
of amaretto, hazelnuts and a hot-buttered rum.
maker/vineayrd manager Jason Bull took the helm at this Forest Grove., operation and producing a dessert wine of this sort (8% residual sugar) is a gutsy effort worthy of acclaim. Perfumy aromas feature butterscotch, almond liqueur and candy corn, and they continue onto the palate with notes
2007 Estate Pinot Gris
Wahluke Slope, 512 cases, 15% alc., $15
2005 Estate Muscat Port Outstanding! This vintage marked the year wine-
David Hill Vineyards & Winery
Columbia Crest Winery
David Hill Vineyards & Winery Willamette Valley, 151 cases, 18.9 % alc. $28
and pears, limes, Thompson seedless grapes and a hint of grassiness. There’s a concentrated orange peel character throughout the palate and provides the acidity to balance the ambrosia salad flavors and the nice viscous feel.
notes, and the alcohol is nicely integrated behind the charming acidity.
NV Windfall Port-style
Westport Winery
Oregon, 18% alc., $25
NV Shelter From the Storm
Excellent. A fortified Pinot Noir dessert wine
American, 334 cases, 18% alc., $22
comes across reminiscent of tawny Port, starting with aromas of currants, cigar leaf, moist cedar, plums and brown sugar. There’s more cassis and plums on the palate with some raisin
Recommended. A blend of Northwest cranberries,
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
blackberries and blueberries is created in a tasty style that’s akin to a SweeTart. The 11% sweetness is lifted by being fortified. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
72-89 Recent Releases
6/3/09
5:12 PM
Page 89
recent releases
WINE REVIEWS
Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Dusted Valley Vintners
Magnificent Wine Co.
San Juan Vineyards
2007 Boomtown Unoaked Chardonnay
2007 House White Wine
2007 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, 1,300 cases, 13.7% alc., $13
Columbia Valley, 22,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Yakima Valley, 209 cases, 14.1% alc., $15
Excellent. It didn’t take long for these transplant-
Recommended. Notes from the Chardonnay
Recommended. A combination of Kestrel
ed Wisconsin winemakers to build a cult following in Walla Walla, Wash., but this consumer-priced line also makes this a winery for the masses. There’s little in the way of oak showing in the nose of Mandarin orange, apricots, apples and cotton candy. Tangerines, yellow grapefruit, apple and pears impart a pleasant mouthfeel, and a dash of Sauvignon Blanc (4%) brightens the acidity before a strip of apple peal shows in the finish.
(85%) come across with the notes of starfruit, butterscotch and oak, but the drizzle of Riesling (10%) shows off in hints of orchard fruit, mineral, river rock and diesel tones. It’s got light acidity and shows itself as dry.
Vineyard fruit and oak resulted in an expression of pineapple, baking spices and tanning butter that’s enhanced by nice midpalate acidity and can be enjoyed with buttered clams, mussles or stand on its own.
Maryhill Winery
Scatter Creek Winery
2007 Winemaker’s White
2006 Valley de Bon Blanco
Columbia Valley, 5,537 cases, 13.5% alc., $12
Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 12% alc., $13
Recommended. This blend of Chardonnay
Outstanding! Judged as “best white” at the Capital Food & Wine Festival by Wine Press Northwest, the off-dry Gewürztraminer from Realm Ridge is handled a bit differently by this Tenino, Wash., winery. It’s aged with elderberry blossoms, which add to its nosefull of floral grapefruit and fresh-cut oranges. Mouthwatering citrus fruit fills the mouth with delicious flavors of tangerine, grapefruit and candy corn. Amazing acidity comes with a flurrying on the finish and is akin to sucking on a lime.
Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Boomtown Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 1,300 cases, 12.5% alc., $13
Excellent. You can look hard for oak influence, but it doesn’t seem to be there, and that’s a good thing. The absence allows for starfruit, apple, pineapple, gooseberry, lime and mineral notes to share the stage. It’s clean on the entry, medium-bodied and racy on the flavors with lingering tartness, suggesting a meal of linguine with clams or alfredo sauce, scallops, halibut or ling cod.
Heymann Whinery NV Apricot Wine Washington, 80 cases, 12% alc., $14
Outstanding! If you’ve never tried a fruit wine
but you enjoy apricots, you’ll love this one, which was judged as Best of Show at the Capital Food & Wine Festival by Wine Press Northwest. Unmistakable apricot aromas are joined by a scoop of vanilla ice cream. There’s delicious delivery of the same on the palate in a juicy and fruity, but not sweet, fashion with dried apricots and a bit of pineapple rind on the finish for balance. Enjoy this as a brunch wine, over a bowl of sliced fruit or simply by itself.
Heymann Whinery NV Cranberry Wine Washington, 120 cases, 12% alc., $14
Outstanding! Wonderment over this wine begins
at first sight with its marvelous color in the glass. A whiff brings in thoughts of whole berry cranberry sauce, a bit of sea mist, some raspberry and peppermint. It’s full-on cranberry across the tongue, akin to slurping a frozen fruit bar with a bit of cinnamon. The natural tartness of the berry provides the acidity to keep it from being cloying and makes for a great accompaniment with Cornish game hens.
Lopez Island Vineyards 2007 Crawford Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 210 cases, 14% alc., $14
Recommended. Pear, apple and fresh salt-water
taffy aromas pull you into the entry that’s sweet with pineapples and canned pears with a tinge of oak in the soft finish.
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
(49%), Sauvignon Blanc (36%), Semillon (11%) and Viognier from Coventry Vale, Milbrandt and Gunkel vineyards features exotic aromas of jasmine, apple blossoms, Thompson seedless grapes and tropical fruit. The drink zeroes in on flavors of pineapples and apples with citrusy acidity to provide delicious balance.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Five Vineyards Pinot Blanc Okanagan Valley, 12.5% alc., $14 CDN
Snake River Winery
Excellent. The Okanagan Valley can make a case for crafting much of the best Pinot Blanc in the Northwest, and here’s a quality example from vineyards in Oliver, the Naramata Bench, Kelowna and Osoyoos. There’s amazing complexity with apples, vanilla ice cream, gooseberry, river rock, lime and Orange Peanut candy aromas. Tasty frontal acidity runs all the way through, carrying the pears and citrus from start to finish. Suggested fare includes oysters or steamed mussels in a light butter sauce.
Recommended. Vines planted in 1983 contributed to inviting aromas of lemon meringue pie, Orange Peanut candy and orchard blossoms. They pour into baked apple flavors with sweetened lemon, making this an off-dry offering (2.95% residual sugar) that will be easy summer sipper.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
Stella Fino
2007 Barrel Select Pinot Gris
2007 Pinot Gris
Yakima Valley, 85 cases, 13.3% alc., $13
Oregon, 90 cases, 14.2% alc., $14
Recommended. Crawford Vineyards produced
Recommended. Grapes from the Willamette Valley and the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley allow this young Milton-Freewater winery to make a fruit-forward and straight-forward drink focused on dusty apples, pineapple, candy corn and a complex blend of orange and lemon citrus.
the Pinot Gris, but estate Siegerrebe (10%) with a dash of Gewürztraminer from Red Mountain’s Kiona Vineyard spent time in barrel, which explains the aromatics of toasted bread, crushed walnut, coconut milk and sweet alyssum blossom. There’s a lot of fruit on the palate though, led by canteloupe on the entry, pineapple with river rock on the midpalate and citrus pith in the finish.
Revelry Vintners
2007 Cobble Hill Block Arena Valley Vineyard Estate Riesling Idaho, 110 cases, 11.4% alc., $14
Ward Johnson Winery 2007 Sun River Vineyard Counterbalance Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 168 cases, 13.6% alc., $14
2006 Chardonnay
Recommended. If you live on Queen Anne Hill in
Columbia Valley, 7,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $12
Excellent. This young Woodinville winery is known
for its “bag in a cask,” but the wines are just as good from a bottle. Jared Burns and Co., harnesses aromas of ambrosia fruit salad with a whiff of oak in the background, followed by more pineapples and fresh pear in the mouth. Nice acidity and a rich finish make it balanced and a food-friendly wine. Suggested pairings include delicate seafood and gazpacho.
Seattle, then you might be familar with the Counterbalance neighborhood near this young winery. Granny Smith apples, baked Bosc pears, marshmallow and pine nuts go along way in describing the ins and outs of this wine, matured in neutral oak. The same fruit on the palate carries into pleasing minerality with a boatload of citrus acidity at the midpoint, and a blend of jasmine and honeysuckle in the finish.
S U M M E R 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
89
90 Vintage Musings
6/1/09
COLUMN
12:45 PM
Page 90
vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER
Vintage Walla Walla
T
he folks at Walla Walla Vintners wanted to know how their 13 vintages of Merlots were holding up, and they invited a few critics to come along for the trip down memory lane. So this spring, owners Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri staged their tasting, which was orchestrated by Wine Press Northwest master facilitator Hank Sauer. It’s always a joy to visit Walla Walla Vintners. The setting is scenic as the landmark red barn overlooks Mill Creek and the tree-covered Blue Mountains serve as a backdrop. It’s a modest winery and now surrounded by vineyards, a testament to the growth of the Walla Walla wine industry. “We do our own evaluation of our wines, but we decide to take it a step further and invited in some outsiders for their opinions,” Venneri said. Winemakers build their libraries of different vintages and varieties and periodically evaluate them via vertical tastings. I’ve been to several of these and enjoy them because they provide a look at history and a peek at what is to come. Showing no fear, Anderson and Venneri lined up a tasting panel that included three of their Walla Walla Valley peers — Gary Figgins of Leonetti, Rick Small of Woodward Canyon and Jean-François Pellet of Pepper Bridge — and a pair of columnists from national magazines. “The consensus was that all of the wines seemed to have held up pretty well,” Venneri said. It’s difficult to find much consensus on how long Merlots made in the New World age. Some say three to five years. Others maintain five to 15 years and beyond. Because of the softer tannins, Merlot is believed to not possess the aging characteristic of Cabernet Sauvignon. Most Pacific Northwest red wines are consumed within a few years and are enjoyable for many years if properly cellared. Such was the case with these Merlots from Walla Walla Vintners, a lineup that started with the 1995 vintage and ended with the 2007 vintage. Venneri and Anderson produced home-crafted wines for many years before making commercial wines. They honed their skills, took mistakes to the landfill and forged a successful partnership. Venneri is an accountant. Anderson is the founding director of the Walla Walla Institute for Enology and Viticulture. He retired in 2007. Walla Walla Vintners bottles blends as well as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Merlot and Sangiovese. “We often blend small amounts of Carmenérè, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Syrah to elevate the charm and elegance of our wines,” Venneri said. They release small amounts of Petit Verdot, Syrah and Malbec while specializing in making wines from grapes grown in the Walla Walla Valley appellation. In January 1995, they decided to take a chance and 90
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 9
become the eighth bonded winery in the Walla Walla AVA. They made 675 cases the first year. Production now is about 5,000 cases annually. My favorites from the tasting were all from the Walla Walla Valley, the 1997, the 2005 and the current release, 2007. This was a particularly special tasting as the visiting winemakers, each of whom create fine Merlots, reminisced about what happened during the growing season for a particular vintage. The 1996 vintage was especially difficult because of a bad winter freeze. As a result, Merlot, one of the more tender varieties, was in short supply throughout the Northwest. The following are some of my and other tasters’ comments. 1995 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Tobacco, chocolate with oak essences took over the fruit. 1997 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: A lovely dark cherry bouquet and complex berry flavors show that it still has a lot of life left. I found it wonderful from start to finish. 1997 Merlot, Yakima Valley: Juicy berry fruit was somewhat on the tart side with slightly vegetal aromas. 1998 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Spice and green tea aromas greet you with some Jolly Rancher candy to add to the blackberry flavors. 1999 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Huge cherry and berry beginning turns to coffee and chocolate with a lush, smooth finish. 2000 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: A touch of sexy leather aromas. Flavors of plums and blueberries. 2001 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Loaded with spice and multiple berry fruit. This vintage was praised by experts when it was released, and it’s holding up well. 2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Think big dark Bing cherries. The 18 percent Cabernet Sauvignon makes this a delicious wine with blackberry jam flavors. 2003 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Oh so smooth! A delightful chocolate and espresso beginning marries well with smooth blackberry flavors. 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley: Big and juicy with grapes from six different vineyards adds complexity. A lavender nose with dark currant flavors. 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: A delicious steak-friendly wine with great acidity and notes of cranberry, coffee and a hint of caramel. 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Milk chocolate and ripe black olives along with wild berry jam flavors make for a classic wine to serve with a savory Belgian stew. 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $28: Sweet oak aromas and fresh ripe berries makes this a ready to enjoy now or later with slow-roasted short ribs. BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
91 Best Western ad
5/29/09
4:16 PM
Page 91
92 U-Line
5/29/09
4:15 PM
Page 92