Wine Press Northwest Winter 2008 by Wine Press Northwest

01 cover

12/8/08

U.S. $3

11:40 AM

Canada $4 1 2>

74470 94059

Page 1

02 Esquin ad

12/8/08

11:41 AM

Page 2

03 TCVCB ad

12/8/08

11:42 AM

Page 3

04 Contents.qxd

12/11/08

10:43 AM

Page 4

WINE PRESS

Vol. 11, No. 4

N O R T H W E S T

FEATURES

28 A wine lover’s guide to Seattle A guide to some of the places to discover and enjoy wine in the Emerald City.

44 Harvest report While it wasn’t exactly a slam dunk or a home run, the 2008 vintage came through in a pinch.

54 Best of the best Find out the results of our ninth annual Platinum judging.

78 Drink to success Two Northwest chefs pair their dishes with Morrison Lane’s 2004 Nebbiolo from Columbia Valley.

The neon sign for Seattle’s Best Coffee on Post Alley looks out over Pike Place Market’s famous sign. Story starts on page 28.

Winter 2008/2009 DEPARTMENTS 8 Wine Nose Kiss French, drink Northwest

10 A Distant Perspective Prohibition didn’t end 75 years ago

12 Market Grapevine A feast for faithful foodies, wine lovers

14 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Oak an ancient part of winemaking

16 Urban Sips Some send letters, I send whine

18 21 22 24 88 106

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Wine Shop Directory Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings A fitting tribute to Walter Clore

05 Masthead

12/8/08

11:49 AM

Page 5

WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Jessica Munnell, Parks Redwine, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Jackie Johnston Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Shelley Ransier, 509-582-1570 E-mail: sransier@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2008-2009 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

06 What's online

12/9/08

1:22 PM

W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

Page 6

winepressnw.com

We’re also on

NORTHWEST WINECAST

“

VOICES

”

from The Wine Knows blog community.winepressnw.com

Bottleshock is not near the quality of movie that Sideways is: very little consumer response at the box office, dumped by critics, and practically offensive to watch and take seriously (IMHO). To find what gave Sideways such leverage with the consumer, don’t look further than the box office: $71m. Bottleshock comes in at just over $3m. — jlarosee (Oct. 6) Amen to listing the alcohol levels! While I am the first to admit I love the massive red zinfandels that frequently hit 16% alcohol, they are very hard to pair with food, and even two glasses leaves me with a monster headache the next morning. — timinspokane (Oct. 21)

Each Tuesday, catch the Northwest Winecast, an online video show. Recent episodes have gone to Moses Lake’s budding wine industry, Privé Vineyard’s release party in Newberg, Ore., Yoke’s Fresh Market wine department in West Richland, Wash., and Oregon’s Del Rio Vineyard.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Wine Club

Two Bottles of select

Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our

“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.

503-620-6691 800-288-3008

www.pnwc.com 6

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

07 South Ridge ad

12/8/08

12:07 PM

Page 7

09 Maryhill

12/8/08

12:09 PM

Page 9

10 Berger column

12/9/08

COLUMN

10:36 AM

Page 10

a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Prohibition didn’t end 75 years ago

o the 75th anniversary of the end of Prohibition passed on Dec. 5 without a great deal of fanfare. No bells ringing, no parties with revelers toasting each other with Champagne, no page-one headline stories. I am not surprised. The fact is that the United States is still one of the world’s most anti-wine cultures in the world and still has a dedicated subculture of people who have dedicated their lives to banning “demon rum” in all of its incarnations. Most of them sound benign enough, using the word “health” or other beneficent-sounding terms. One such group, the Center for Science in the Public Interest, masquerades as a science-based pro-consumer group. However, its busybody, holier-than-thou approach often twists the truth, as if it is sounding a warning cry. But among its activities is a Prohibitionist philosophy that would require a skull and crossbones on every bottle of Chateau Latour. I am not an alarmist. Prohibitionists are in every major city in the world in one guise or another. Indeed, France recently placed severe restrictions on wine advertising and is considering a ban on sampling in tasting rooms! The fact that the wave of Prohibition-era anti-alcohol hysteria of the 1990s in the United States has diminished does not mean that Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) is any less a force today than it was then. And although it is clear that drinking and driving are two activities that ought never to be undertaken at the same time, one thing also is clear: There is a vast difference between whiskey consumed out of a flask on a street corner from wine consumed out of a wine glass with dinner. The problem with Prohibition, whether it was the sort of attacks waged by the Women’s Christian Temperance Union or the Anti-Saloon League of the 1920s and 1930s or the modern version that manipulates facts to make arguments that sound sane, is that it ignores a number of crucial issues that make dry table wine different from so many other alcoholic beverages. Here are a few: • Context. We consume wine slowly with meals, and in this manner gain health benefits that do not accrue to abstainers. • Dose. Yes, a five-ounce glass of wine may equate in terms of ethanol to a shot of whiskey, but shots of whiskey are rarely sipped for a half hour; usually they’re tossed back in a few seconds. Almost no one consumes wine that way. • The buffering effect: Consuming wine over longer periods of time than other alcoholic beverages, and with food, means that some of the alcohol will be processed by the body without a negative effect on vital organs. Jim Trezise of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation 10

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

wrote in his regular newsletter in December that the 18th Amendment enabling the 1919-1933 period of Prohibition was “a truly stupid law.” But he added that problems remain. “The problem was and still is that wine was included in the definition of ‘intoxicating liquors’ ” and that a crucial aspect of alcoholic beverage control was ignored by the federal government. Trezise pointed out that in passing the 21st Amendment to repeal Prohibition, “the federal government punted, leaving it to each state to determine how to deal with ‘intoxicating liquors’. “That’s why the United States is, in effect, 50 different countries (states) in terms of where wine is sold (at the winery and/or through direct shipment to consumers and/or direct distribution to retailers [which may be liquor stores, grocery stores, drug stores, convenience stores, etc., depending on the state] and restaurants and/or through wholesalers). “Each state is different — with different laws and regulations, bureaucracies and tax structures — so the bureaucratic nightmare is overwhelming for most … wineries, which are primarily small farm family businesses. “It is truly amazing that so many people of passion have elected to get into this business and stay in it, given all the obstacles our various levels of government have thrown at them.” Trezise added, “It is important to realize that there are many people … who essentially want to revive Prohibition (without actually saying the word) through taxes, trade barriers, sampling regulations and other means.” The establishment of the three-tier system of wine distribution in this country was a way to remove unsavory elements as well as pressure from the way wine, beer and spirits were sold. And with the latter two beverages, most of which are nonvintaged commodity items, such a distribution was fine in 1933 and still fine for the most part today. But wine is basically vintaged and used in a much different manner. Sad that a bottle of Leonetti Cellar Merlot is equated with illegal substances, as in the phrase “wine and other drugs.” Table wine may have alcohol and may be abused, but any abuse is related more to the abuser than to the beverage. It’s like suggesting that thousands die every year from auto accidents, so we should outlaw cars. So yes, let’s raise a toast to the end of Prohibition, a sane move — but vow to be more vigilant against unfair and insidious attacks on the beverage of moderation, the tonic of health, the brew of conviviality, and the elixir of reflection. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

11 Idaho ad

12/8/08

1:51 PM

Page 11

12 Market Grapevine

COLUMN

12/11/08

1:37 PM

Page 12

market grapevine BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

A feast for faithful foodies, wine lovers Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

h come all ye faithful foodies and wine lovers as we create a festive holiday feast befitting our region’s wintertime bounty. We’ll begin with a lush cheeseand-Dungeness-crab appetizer, segue to a sumptuous butternut squash bisque, move to red wine with fish for dinner and conclude with chocolate and Port. Brie Croustades with Dungeness Crab is adapted from Great Chefs Cook at Barbara Jo’s (Douglas & McIntyre, 2004, $23 Canadian). Start by cutting the rind from half a pound of chilled double-cream Brie. Discard the rind, let the cheese sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, then cut it into oneinch pieces. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor, pulse three extra-large eggs and the cheese until very smooth and thick. Coat two 12-hole, two-inch-diameter nonstick muffin pans with nonstick spray. Spoon one tablespoon of the cheese mixture into each muffin cup. Bake until the croustades are puffed and golden. Let them sit for one minute, then remove croustades from the tins and top each with two teaspoons of fresh-picked Dungeness crabmeat. Pair the Croustades with Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes NonVintage Pinot Noir Brut Rosé (Okanagan Valley, $29 CDN), a medium-bodied bubbly rife with strawberry and raspberry flavors and hints of warm buttered toast whose bubbles and acidity cut through the cheese while not overwhelming the delicate crabmeat. Butternut Squash Bisque appears in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) thanks to Chris Upchurch, winemaker/partner at DeLille Cellars in Woodinville, Wash. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and roast two medium butternut squash (cut in half and seeded) on an aluminum-foil-lined baking sheet until very tender. Scoop out the flesh and discard the skins. Heat two tablespoons of unsalted butter in a stockpot over medium heat. Add two large cleaned, chopped leeks (white parts only) and cook until translucent. Add two tablespoons of grated fresh ginger, stir well and cook until the leeks are tender but not browned. Add the squash and four cups of chicken stock, stir well and cook for 20 minutes. Cool slightly and carefully transfer the soup (in batches) to a food processor or blender and pulse until smooth. Return to the stockpot and add two more cups of chicken stock plus one to two teaspoons (to taste) of kosher salt. Heat through, divide among six soup bowls, dollop with sour cream and garnish with candied ginger. Serve with Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Eroica Riesling (Columbia Valley, $22). Lovely sweet citrus, stone fruits and slate; a hint of beeswax; just enough acidity and a touch of sweetness 12

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

combine to form a wine that pairs perfectly with curry-based, spicy or shellfish-rich dishes. Petrale Sole with Pinot Noir Cream Sauce comes from Gilbert Henry, chef/owner of Cuvée restaurant in Carlton, Ore., as printed in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Roll four six-ounce Petrale sole fillets jelly-roll fashion and secure with toothpicks. Season the fish. Melt one tablespoon of unsalted butter in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat and add the rolled fillets. Pour one cup each of fish stock and Pinot Noir over the fish and sprinkle with one cup of diced shallots. Bring to a gentle simmer, then transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the fillets turn opaque. Keep the rolls warm while you make the sauce. Return the skillet to the stovetop and cook over mediumhigh heat until the liquid is reduced to about one cup. Add one cup of heavy cream, stir well and cook until reduced to one cup. Strain the sauce and return to the skillet over low heat. Slowly whisk in (piece by piece) two tablespoons of cut-up, unsalted butter. Remove the toothpicks and transfer the sole to four dinner plates. Season the sauce and spoon over the fillets. Chef Henry suggests pairing his dish with Ghost Hill Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District, $26). Done in the Burgundian style, this delicate, earthy Pinot’s wild berry flavors, smooth tannins and supple finish will enhance the Pinot Noir-flavored sauce without overpowering the sensuous sole itself. We finish with White Chocolate Truffles, a recipe from The Stephanie Inn Cookbook (Steve Martin Management, 2004, $35). Begin by placing one pound, plus two ounces of white chocolate (finely chopped) in a stainless-steel bowl. Bring one-half cup of heavy cream to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate; let it sit for one minute, then whisk the chocolate until it is thoroughly melted. Whisk in one tablespoon of orange liqueur and pour the chocolate into a nine-by-11-inch baking pan. Place the truffle mixture in the refrigerator until firm. With a melon baller or teaspoon, scoop the truffles into rounds. Roll the mixture into small balls, then roll the balls in powdered sugar. Serve the truffles with Barnard Griffin Winery 2007 Syrah Port (Columbia Valley, $17), a bold, fruit-forward Port brimming with rich chocolate, orange and raspberry aromas and flavors. Port paired with chocolate—the fitting conclusion to a happy holiday feast for all faithful foodies and wine lovers. Braiden Rex-Johnson has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

13 Meier Enterprise

12/8/08

2:00 PM

Page 13

14 Swirl Sniff Sip

12/11/08

COLUMN

1:39 PM

Page 14

swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Oak an ancient part of winemaking Why do winemakers use oak barrels to age wine? And why is oak the preferred wood?

iterature and archaeology both offer proof that we’ve been making wine for roughly 5,000 years. And our efforts to try to preserve it probably started soon after that first vintage. On Cyprus, 5,000- to 5,500-year-old wine jugs have been dug up, and Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey, composed nearly 3,000 years ago, both mention the “wine-dark sea.” The original vessels we have — simple pottery jugs — were better than nothing, but by 2,000 years ago, someone had a better idea. Pliny the Elder mentions that people in the Alps of northern Italy-southern France were storing wine in wooden barrels in the first century A.D. The first use of oak, whether it was then or later, was likely more a matter of convenience than genius, since oak forests were common in central and western Europe. Over the centuries, plenty of other woods have been tried. The Greeks’ fondness for retsina, their resin-flavored wine, may have come from pine barrels, although they actually inject pine resin into their wines these days rather than aging them in pine. Chestnut also has been and still is used in the Rhone region of France. In Chile, beech used to be popular. Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia notes La Palma in the Canary Islands still ages “Tea Wine” in pine barrels. And winemakers in California and Oregon have used redwood. I recall seeing some huge redwood tanks in the mid-1970s at a winery near Livermore, Calif. Oak has two important benefits for wine, notes Rob Griffin, owner-winemaker of Barnard Griffin Winery in Richland, Wash., and one of the deans of Northwest winemaking. First, an oak barrel allows the controlled introduction of oxygen to allow proper aging. And second, oak introduces all those wonderful woodrelated flavor components we enjoy in most red wines and in many whites. The tannins from toasted oak barrels help preserve the wine and add to its mouth feel. The phenols add spicy and smoky aromas that create a pleasing complexity. And the wood also allows a certain amount of evaporation, especially of alcohol, which helps mellow the wine. And even when the wine has absorbed almost all the flavors and aromas we regard so highly, an oak barrel still benefits red wine, Griffin said. That’s one reason he has gigantic European oak storage tanks that are about four decades old that came out of Joseph Phelps Winery in California. “If you have red wine, it still is better off in wood than if you put it in stainless steel because wine in stainless is much more likely to be attacked by molds” and similar organisms, he said. No other wood seems to offer all those attractions. When winemaking shifted to the New World, the oak forests of the United States offered a new share of complexity 14

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

and debate to the process of aging and preserving wine. To many, especially European winemakers and wine drinkers, American oak is felt to be a bit too coarse, too abrupt, too “obvious,” as Tom Stevenson, the author of Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia put it. But those who love oakiness, especially the delightful vanilla and coconut elements of American oak, find it more appealing than the more subtle European varieties. The differences between the two types have been accentuated by the way in which they are turned into barrels. European oak logs generally are split into barrel staves. American oak generally is sawed in a process that produces roughly a fifth more staves from a log. Sawing a log also breaks down more cells in the wood, releasing more vanillin and other elements that impart coconut-like flavors. Combine sawed wood with American oak’s naturally more open grain structure and more “woody” elements end up in the wine. In addition, American oak is usually kiln dried, while European oak is air dried. Stevenson notes that kiln drying produces “more aggressive” tannins and leaves in the wood some of the aromatic compounds leached out during air drying. Wine Words: Bousinage

What would we do without the French to provide us all their wonderfully precise and mysterious words that allow us English-only sorts to practice our fractured Franglais? Bousinage is the word for the process of toasting the inside of an oak barrel, the degree of “toast” applied to a barrel’s inner surface. The toasting provides several elements key to the enjoyment of wine lovers who gush over nicely oaked Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and all those other wonderful reds. And here, I can’t resist quoting directly from the Wine Encyclopedia: “During toasting, furanic aldehydes (responsible for ‘roasted’ aromas) reach their maximum concentration, the vanilla aroma of vanillin is heightened, and various phenols, such as eugenol (the chief aromatic constituent of oil of cloves), add a smoky, spicy touch to the complexity of oak aromas in wine.” For those of us who aren’t chemists, it’s probably enough to know that there are three degrees of toast — light, medium and heavy. Surprisingly, the medium-heavy and heavy toast barrels often are used for Chardonnay (and bourbon), partly because they remove the color from red wines. So a light-medium toast is more likely to end up holding most red wines. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 38 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

15 Three Rivers

12/8/08

2:15 PM

Page 15

16 Teri Citterman

12/11/08

COLUMN

1:42 PM

Page 16

urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

Some send letters, I send whine

ne of the blessings of this time of year is the chance it gives me to connect with you, my friends and family. I wish I could call you all personally, but really, who has that kind of time. I am so excited to tell you about my amazing life and all the wonderful things that have happened. That said, I’m just going to settle into the recliner (as if I own a La-Z-Boy, ha!) and sip something wonderful I found sitting around the cellar with a price tag of $350. Only the best for the best, I say! This year has proven to be bright cherry with a not-toosubtle hint of concrete. Time seems to fly, but luckily for me, I’m healthy and happy and rich. Instead of keeping up on current events, I spend most of my time playing with my precious new Airlie puppy named Nk’Mip (pronounced in-kameep).. She’s a real Buty, but a complete Dumas (pronounced dumb-ass in this case). One day, she broke out of the yard and dug up the neighbors Hedges. This put me in a real Quercus with them, but I think they overreacted. I mean puppies dig, and as extraordinary as mine is, she is still a Sleeping Dog. So she got a little Territorial and dug up their Roots. It’s not like they can’t plant new ones. They really showed me when they hired kidnappers to hold her for Ransom. I prayed to the Northstar that my poor dog would be returned, but this time, she was indeed up Panther Creek without a paddle. I had an Adea (synonymous with idea) and hired a Mystic named Medici. She was a clairvoyant, who dressed like a Jezebel, but I didn’t care as long as she found my dog. She did a little Gypsy Dancer performance and with a Sleight of Hand, walked away with $100 and a diamond pendant. But Kudos to her because she did manage to predict I’d get my dog back, and I did.

and a Swiffer, but even if he was tidy, that breath could have been my last. Now on to the almost-happier times. While I was decorating the Witness Tree, I slipped and fell into a bucket of Knipprath. It was Arcane that someone had left it there, and I can probably guess who did. Oh you can guess, too? Well, we’re both right! It was my awful neighbor. I almost threw a Tantulus but took a deep breath and collected my wits. I will not let them get the best of me. I simply won’t. One thing that does bring me pure Joie is creating my Christmas Ensemble. I am Adamant about what I wear every day from Dec. 1 on. This year, when I do my holiday decorating, I will be wearing the best Christmas sweater I’ve found yet! It has Rulo the red-nosed reindeer playing the Va Piano with his Christmas Red Rooster. Well, I didn’t notice until after I bought the sweater that the rooster was Naked, but I attached a few crocheted fig leaves to cover up the spots that needed covering. Who says, I’m not creative. I guess it’s a little Eroica, but I’m sure everyone will just love it. Joy to the World, I say, though tragedy did strike yet again! It’s become a holiday tradition to play hide the partridge in the pear tree, kind of like hunting for Easter eggs in wintertime. This year, however, stores couldn’t stock the birds because of rising gas costs or something, so I had to settle for a Lone Canary in a Cuckoo’s Nest. The collapsed economy is really inconvenient, and I don’t know why it couldn’t have waited until AFTER Christmas. I find it to be really un-American.

I guess the kidnappers got tired because I found her four days later at the Rivers Edge. It was on Road 13 between Lost River and Lost Mountain. I guess she could have just been lost, but I doubt it! The neighbors deny it to this day, but I know they’re no St. Innocent. The weirdest thing is the dog goes crazy every time she hears that Ricky Martin song Livin’ La Bella Vida. I think she’s traumatized like the dog in that movie Amity-ville Horror.

Well, my driver Beaux Frère is waiting downstairs. He’s taking me Christmas shopping so I can ensure I’ll get the gifts I really want from the people who aren’t as thoughtful as I am. I figure it saves everyone time and most importantly saves me from sheer disappointment.

You’d think that’d be enough commotion, but just a few weeks later, I walked in the door expecting to see my housekeeper, and instead found a man in a Black Cap and Argyle sweater robbing my house. I know, it’s true: I could be writing this letter from the grave.

Now I’m going to relax into the plush leather of my stretch Escalade with a little Baron’s Five playing in the background. I say Four Graces to you and yours.

Clearly, I startled him with my shrilling Spanish screams “Abeja! Abeja! Get the hell out of my house!” He ran out, and I slammed the door. I’m sure it will take years of Therapy to undo the damage, if it’s even possible for me to ever Trust again. It was odd that the thug left a bucket of cleaning supplies 16

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

This year, I ordered a rare bottle of Kalamar from Karachi. They may not like Americans, but they do make wonderful perfume.

I’m healthy and happy; I wish the same for you. Until next year, cheers! With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

17 CSM ad

12/8/08

2:31 PM

Page 17

18-21 Calendar

12/9/08

10:57 AM

W I N E C O U N T RY

Page 18

activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

These truly are troubled times on both sides of the 49th Parallel, but even during Prohibition and the Great Depression folks in United States still found the means to enjoy wine. On the bright side, the holiday season is upon us. Alas, then comes the cold and dreary days of January and February. With godspeed, things will begin to brighten up and improve on Jan. 20. Just remember, we’re all in this together. Support your neighbors. Keep your money local when possible. And to borrow a line from Andy Perdue, “Kiss French. Drink Northwest.”

Give yourself a gift. Join a wine club. We live in the middle of Washington wine country, so my wife and I — well, it was my decision really, one of the few I get — decided to belong to wine clubs at both ends of Oregon. The latest is a boutique Pinot Noir producer in the Willamette Valley. The other club is in a warm climate outside the Willamette Valley and is one we’ve belonged to for quite some time. I just pray this recession doesn’t dive into a depression. Who doesn’t enjoy getting something fun in the mail? I can’t say that I run to the mailbox each day akin to Ralphie in A Christmas Story, but we enjoy these deliveries much more than a decoder ring.

Try to be the person your dog thinks you are. Here’s a better deal for your pup than that the “Bones for Bowser” doggie bag. On New Year’s Eve, Portland’s Urban Wineworks will play host to “Yappy Hour.” From 6-8 p.m., the folks who own Bishop Creek Cellars allow you to bring your dog to the tasting room. Buy 18

a bottle of their Pinot Noir, and a portion will be donated to the Oregon Humane Society. LexiDog, a canine daycare club in the Portland area, is partnering with the event. Go to urbanwineworks.com for info and photos of their event during the dog days of August.

Nina Ummel’s Seattle-based operation now has a branch in Yakima’s Hilton Garden Inn. This winter, she’s cross-promoting with White Pass Ski Resort and Yakima Valley wineries. You ski, then stop by the spa for a treatment, then “stroll down the street to Masset Winery and cozy up on one of the couches with an appetizer and a glass of wine.” Season pass holders to the ski area that spawned Olympic greats Phil and Steve Mahre get discounts at several wineries in the Yakima Valley. Go to ummelina.com for more info.

Shameless plug No. 1. Call this “The best of the best in the Great Northwest with a view from the top.” Actually, it’s the Sixth Annual Platinum Dinner on the 75th floor of Seattle’s Columbia Tower Club, and it’s scheduled for Friday, Jan. 30. It’s an evening when executive chef James B. Hassell and wine director Kerry Johnson pair cuisine with wines from Wine Press Northwest’s 2008 Platinum Judging. If the Columbia Tower Club weren’t so exclusive, then Hassell would earn more public recognition for his talent. Before dinner is an hour-long meetand-greet featuring some of these winners. Yours truly again will be dressed akin to Tennessee Tuxedo and serving as master of ceremonies. I hope to keep my foot out of my mouth, see a few of my friends there again and make some new ones. Last year, a number of the Platinumproducing winemakers attended the event — despite the multi-day closure of Snoqualmie Pass. Cost is $94 (tax and gratuity included), and each attendee receives a one-year subscription to this magazine. Call the CTC at 206-622-2010.

Ski, spa, walk and sip in a day. It may likely be raining in Seattle and snowing in the Cascades while it’s sunny in Yakima. That’s the thinking behind this idea offered by Ummelina International Day Spa.

A taste of B.C. in the U.S. Now is the time to head up to British Columbia with the Loonie valued at about 80 cents vs. the U.S. dollar. But if you can’t make it up this winter, Central Washington University’s wine education program will bring it to you. On Jan. 23, this two-hour class will allow you to evaluate wines from B.C. and Ontario. Seating is limited and pre-registration is required. Cost is $35. Call 800720-4503, e-mail dwinters@cwu.edu or go to www.cwuce.org/wine-education.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Umm, chocolate. What better way to warm up from the winter doldrums than with red wine and chocolate. Those around the Olympic Peninsula seem as though they can’t give you enough of the stuff. It spans two weekends, Feb. 8-9 and Feb. 14-16. Check out olympicpeninsulawineries.org for advanced bookings. The folks around Lake Chelan also stage their festivities during the second and third weekends in February. Visit lakechelanwinevalley.com. In Yakima Valley, the Rattlesnake Hills Wine Trail posse posted its long weekW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

18-21 Calendar

12/9/08

10:58 AM

Page 19

W I N E C O U N T RY end lineup early, and Masset Winery is of particular interest. The winemaker is Greg Masset, an executive chef whose father, Wil, created the famed Birchfield Manor near Moxee. Greg will be featuring handmade Belgian chocolates at his place, and he’s also making the brownies that Portteus Vineyards plans to provide. It made me hungry just typing that. Go to rattlesnakehills.com for more information.

Pull into Newport. The Newport Seafood & Wine Festival in Oregon is held next to the Rogue Ales Warehouse, but it’s definitely a wine event. And this year marks its 32nd year. You can buy tickets online ahead of time for the Feb. 20-22 event. Officials estimate that more than 17,000 people flock to the area for the event, which includes more than 50 wineries, 30 food vendors and the arts/crafts folks. Just who pours at this event? Anthony Dell, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Coleman, Columbia Crest, David Hill, Griffin Creek, Henry Estate, Honeywood, Melrose, Sagelands, Sienna Ridge, Silvan Ridge, Spangler, Troon, Tualatin Estate, Willamette Valley Vineyards, Joe Dobbes and Zerba were among the gold-medal winners. Shuttle buses will run for free from Newport. Go newportchamber.org for info.

Shameless plug No. 2. The Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City, Ore., is playing host to its third Wine Appreciation Weekend. This time, it’s scheduled for March 2022, and yours truly again will be serving as MC and sharing thoughts about the Northwest wine industry, answering questions and describing the food-andwine pairings created by executive chef Pedro T. Cabrales — a past Match Maker. Call the Geiser Grand at 888-434-7374 for package information and go to geisergrand.com to learn more about Dwight and Barbara Sidway’s historic business. With any luck, I’ll make it to Ski Anthony Lakes and see renowned instructor Dick Knowles, who has friends in the Northwest wine industry. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

18-21 Calendar

12/9/08

10:58 AM

Page 20

W I N E C O U N T RY

About time, eh? I’ve long been interested in attending the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, but the focus of this compolitan event in Canada’s most beautiful city has kept me away. However, if I’m ever going to attend, the 31st edition will be the one. “B.C. takes centre stage,” is the theme. The event runs March 23-29, but tickets went on sale Nov. 19. For purchasing info, go to playhousewinefest.com. Provincial wineries will dominate like never before, with more than 50 on the list. Some of the most prestigious wineries from Washington and Oregon also are scheduled to pour. The scope of this week-long extravaganza includes more than 1,600 wines at 60 events for a projected gathering of 25,000 attendees. One of the events is a 10-year vertical of Mission Hills flagship wine Oculus with owner Anthony von Mandl. The list of winemaker dinners will be announced in January.

Reaching new heights in Yakima. Paul Beveridge owns one of the most appropriate surnames in the Northwest wine industry, and this attorney has created with another marketing niche for his Wildridge Winery and its Yakima outlet. His nine-acre vineyard is planted in the Naches Heights (the latest pending AVA), but the tasting room is in Yakima. What awaits is what seems to be a unique feature — rock climbing. Near the farmhouse that serves as the tasting room is a pair of cliff areas that are estimated to be 5.5 to 5.9 in difficulty. This opportunity is not for the novice. You must bring shoes, a harness and rope. However, there’s a bolt and chain at the top for the lead rope. After you summit, toast your achievement with a glass. For info, visit tastingroomyakima.com. — What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. — Have an item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events and follow the directions.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

18-21 Calendar

12/9/08

10:58 AM

Page 21

events

W I N E C O U N T RY

January 9-10 Oregon Wine and Food Festival, Salem. This fund-raiser for local children covers two days at the fairgrounds. Call 503-390-7324 or go to excelexpos.com. 13-18 Okanagan Ice Wine Festival, Sun Peaks, B.C. The 11th celebration of the province’s stickies returns to this resort. Call 800-807-3257 or go to owfs.com. 22 Taste B.C. 2008, Vancouver. The Hyatt Regency plays host to the 15th annual fund-raiser for B.C. Children’s Hospital. Provincial wineries, restaurants, cheese and chocolatiers step up. Call 604-739-7801 or go to libertywinemerchants.com. 23-24 Oregon Seafood & Wine Festival, Portland. This multiple sclerosis fund-raiser features 50 wineries and food demonstrations at the Oregon Convention Center. Call 360-210-5275 or go to oregonseafoodfestival.com. 24 A Celebration of Washington Wines, Woodinville. Chateau Ste. Michelle serves as the home for this black-tie event in its eighth year, which benefits WSU’s viticulture and enology program. Call 509-335-6479 or go to wineauction.wsu.edu. 24 Gifts from the Earth, Seattle. The South Seattle Community College Foundation showcases its culinary arts and wine program by pairing 15 celebrity chefs with 30 state wineries. Call 206-764-5809 or go to southseattle.edu.

February 9 St. Joseph’s Art & Wine, Kennewick, Wash. The 13th annual fund-raiser for St. Joseph’s Parish and School features regional wines, restaurants, artists and musicians. Cost is $50. Call 509-585-9371 or go to stjoesartandwine.com. 4-6 Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers Convention, Kennewick, Wash. Growers, winemakers and vendors through the Northwest convene at the Three Rivers Convention Center and Toyota Center for the 13th annual meeting and trade show. Call 877-889-2944 or visit wawgg.org. 8-9 and 14-16 Red Wine & Chocolate Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. Member wineries on the peninsula and islands pour it on over two weekends and Presidents Day. Cost is $20. Call 800-785-5495 or go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org. 14-16 Red Wine and Chocolate, Yakima Valley, Wash. More than 50 wineries in the heart of the Northwest’s oldest grape-growing region pair their wines with chocolate. Reserve ticket is $20. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org. 20-22 Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, Newport, Ore. The 32nd annual event, which was the first of its kind in the Northwest, is scheduled to include more than 50 wineries. Call 800-262-7844 or go to newportchamber.org. 23-25 Oregon Wine Industry Symposium, Eugene. Enology, viticulture and business are the focus at the Hilton Hotel and Conference Center. Call 503-228-8336 or go to oregonwine.org/symposium. 28-March 1 Poverty Bay Wine Festival, Des Moines, Wash. Rotarians stage this gathering of more than 20 Washington wineries, fare and live jazz at Landmark on the Sound for the fifth year. Cost is $25. Call 206-824-9462 or go to dmrotary.org.

March 3-7 Classic Wines Auction, Portland. This 25th annual fund-raiser for Portland-area children sells out months in advance. It features winemakers and restaurants on both sides of the Columbia. Call 503-972-0194 or go to classicwinesauction.com. 13-15 McMinnville Wine & Food Classic, McMinnville, Ore. This 16-year-old event has landed at the aviation museum. Cost is $15. Call 503-472-4033 or go to macwfc.org. 21 Greatest of the Grape, Canyonville, Ore. The oldest wine event in the Northwest celebrates its 39th anniverary and pairs Southern Oregon wineries with restaurants at Seven Feathers Casino. Cost is $75. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org. 23-29 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Vancouver, B.C. One of the world’s largest and oldest wine events is staged a full month later this year. It gathers about 1,600 wines, more than 50 events and features provincial wines this year. Call 604-873-3311 or go to playhousewinefest.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

22-23 WSD

12/8/08

2:32 PM

Page 22

Pacific Northwest Wine Clubs AVALON “RESERVE PINOT NOIR CLUB” Rare & highly rated Pinots: Beaux Freres, Soter, Bergstrom, Shea, Brick House, Sineann. AVALON “NORTHWEST BIG REDS CLUB” Hard-to-get, highly rated reds: Andrew Will, Owen Roe, Woodward, Betz, Buty. Informative newsletter each month, personal service, advance notice on popular wines. Specializing in NW wine since 1989. WWW.AVALONWINE.COM • 541-752-7418 Avalon Wine, 201 SW 2nd, Corvalis, OR 97333 ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS WINECLUB **Save 10% off all wine, every day! ** 509-962-8463 • EllensburgWineWorks.com THE OREGON PINOT NOIR CLUB. We taste all the pinot noir in Oregon & send you the best. Monthly wine clubs, case discounts, worldwide shipping, honest advice. If you love great pinot noir, call: 800-847-4474 • oregonpinotnoir.com or e-mail: pinotguy@oregonpinotnoir.com OREGON WINE CLUB The finest Oregon wines at your doorstep every month. Call to join or order wine gifts. www.OregonWineClub.net 1-800-WINE CLB • Wine@OregonWineClub.net PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINE CLUB, P.O. Box 2081, Lake Oswego, OR 97035. Each month, we’ll select: two top NW wines (red, white, sweet or a combination). Cost per month averages less than $25 plus shipping.Call 800-288-3008 or join online at www.pnwc.com. PACIFIC WINE CLUB International & West Coast & Wine Clubs for all budgets and palates Tasting Room • Bottle Shop • Top Rated Wines 3588 Heathrow Way, Medford, OR. 97504 1-800-792-6410 • www.pacificwineclub.com • VINE TALES WINE CLUB • Distinctive wines from smaller cellars with growing reputations -- offering superior values! NW, international & exclusive offerings. Join the Club! Get bi-monthly selections delivered! www.vinetales.com 1-888-883-VINE (8463) WashingtonWineCellar.com Fine Washington wines from our cellar to yours! Experience the best Washington has to offer: Two premium wine clubs feature hand-selected boutique WA wines. Visit us at 360-536-5892 or www.washingtonwinecellar.com Cheers! WINE-BY-COUGARS Anyone can join and enjoy premium award-winning wines with a proud Cougar-connection 509-526-7700 or www.winebycougars.com

Washington Greater Seattle Area ARISTA WINE CELLARS 11 years of expertise in Great finds & Vintage Service www.AristaWines.com Allocated & special collectibles • Best Value in wine clubs • Tools & Gifts for every wine lover • Try before you buy tastings: Every Saturday 1-4:30. Complimentary 320 Fifth Ave. S., Edmonds, WA 98020 Free: 866.430.WINE

CELLAR 46, www.cellar46.com Wine Shop OPEN Daily Restaurant OPEN Tues-Saturday 7650 SE 27th Street, Mercer Island,WA 98040 (206) 407-3016 CHAMPION WINE CELLARS, 108 Denny Way, 2 blocks W of Seattle Center. Convenient location & parking. Specializing: finer European & extended selection of WA wines. All important regions represented. Owned & operated by Emile Ninaud since 1969. Gift boxes, special orders, wine/menu recommendations. Case discounts. We will ship. (206) 284-8306. E-mail: LeTastevin@aol.com CITY CELLARS FINE WINES, 1710 N.45th St., Seattle. (206) 632-7238. Tues.-Sat.11-7; Sundays 12-5. www.citycellar.com. Friday tastings 5-7. “In the heart of Wallingford.” DeLAURENTI SPECIALTY FOOD & WINE, 1435 1st Ave. in Seattle's Pike Place Market. Over 1000 wines & 250 Cheeses (800) 873-6685 • www.delaurenti.com deVINE WINES, 15224 Main St. in Mill Creek Town Center, featuring boutique NW wines, 425-357-6200 • www.de-vinewines.com ESQUIN WINE MERCHANTS, 2700 Fourth Ave. S., Seattle. More than 4,000 wines. Discount prices and free local delivery. Open 7 days a week. 206-682-7374. www.esquin.com GEORGE’S WINE SHOPPE, 521 156th Ave SE Bellevue, WA in Lake Hills. Customer friendly; wines for every taste! Open Mon.-Sat. 425-644-7723 • www.georgeswineshoppe.com THE GRAPE ADVENTURE, Kent Restaurant Wine Bar & Bottle Shop. Wine & beer on tap, great cuisine, cheese & unique gifts. Wine club. Open Mon-Sat. 12930 SE Kent-Kangley Rd. 253-631-8400. www.thegrapeadventure.com MADISON PARK CELLARS, Rare, hard-to-find wines. FREDMADCEL@aol.com (206) 323-9333 NORTH CITY BISTRO Wine Shop & Jazz Club Seattle. 1520 NE 177th. Extensive wine selection. 206-365-4447 • www.northcitybistro.com PIKE & WESTERN WINE SHOP. 1934 Pike Pl. Corner of Pike Pl. & Virginia; Pike Place Market Open daily! wineshop@pikeandwestern.com (206) 441-1307 • www.pikeandwestern.com SEATTLE CELLARS, 2505 2nd Ave., Suite 102, Seattle, WA 98121 Belltown’s premier wine shop. Open Mon.-Sat. 11 am-7 pm • 206-256-0850 SEATTLE WINE CO., 1950 130th Ave. NE, Bellevue, WA 98005. “Wholesale” to the public. Mon-Sat. The best wines at the best prices! 425-869-0609. • www.seattlewineco.com THE TASTING ROOM, 1924 Post Alley in the Pike Place Market. WA State's first cooperative wine cellar features some of WA's finest and hardest-to-find wines. Open for private events. (206) 770-WINE www.winesofwashington.com URBAN VINES, A specialty wine & beer shop in Seattle’s Mount Baker neighborhood, Tues-Sat 3605 S McClellan St, www.urbanvines.com

VILLAGE WINES, Tasting Room & Retail Store in the heart of Woodinville Wine Country. Boutique wines & ales by the glass. Open daily for tasting at 14545 148th Ave. NE, Ste 211. (425) 485-3536 • www.myvillagewines.com WEST SEATTLE CELLARS, 6026 California Ave. S.W., Seattle. Thurs. free tastings: 5:30-8 (206) 937-2868 • westseattlecellars.com THE WINE ALLEY, Fairwood Shopping Center, 14276 SE 176th St., Renton, WA 98058 Finest wines from the Pacific NW & the world 425-271-4501 • www.thewinealley.com WINE OUTLET, www.seattlewineoutlet.com Quality wines at discounted prices. Open daily. 1701 1st S. • (206) 652-1311 946 Elliott Ave. West. • (206) 285-1129

Olympia Area SAVORY FAIRE CAFE & WINE SHOP 135 S. Main St., Montesano, WA Open Mon-Fri: 10:30-3:30. Wine tastings & monthly specialty dinners. Friday wine tasting & tapas 5:30-9pm. www.savoryfaire.com • 360-249-3701 The WINE LOFT, 401 Columbia St. N.W., Olympia, WA 98501. Tues.-Fri. 11-6; Sat. 11-5. 360-754-6208 • www.wineloftoly.com

Tacoma Area WILDSIDE WINE, just off Sixth in Tacoma, at 608 A S. Oxford (3 blocks E of Jackson around the corner from JT's). E-mail for our specials: Carol@wildsidewine.com • 253-565-0811 WINE BANK, 7017 27th St W.,University Place, WA 98466. Open Tues-Sat. Saturday tastings. Wine club; weekly e-mail specials. We ship! Great wines, great prices, great service! 253-564-1101 • www.winebankup.com THE WINE BASKET, 2118 S. 314th St., Federal Way. Wine tastings: Sat: 12-4 • 253-874-3070 Shop online: www.YourWineBasket.com

Olympic, Kitsap Peninsula, San Juans COMPASS WINES, 1405 Commercial Ave., Anacortes, WA. 360-293-6500; fax: 360-588-1895. Extensive collection of rare & collectable wines. Wine storage. Only 2 blocks from the marinas. Dockside delivery available. compasswines.com HELLAMS VINEYARD downtown La Conner, 109 North 1st St. # 101 Daily (winter: closed Tues.) 360-466-1758 • hellamsvineyard.com OLYMPIC WINE SHOP, Unique NW wine in Poulsbo Village Shopping Center next to Taprock Northwest Grill 19740 7th Ave. N.E. 360.697.9463 • olympicwineshop@comcast.net WATER TO WINE, Gig Harbor, 9014 Peacock Hill Ave. Ste 103A T-F:11-7; Sat:11-6; Sun:12-4 253-853-9463 • info@watertowineshop.com THE WINE SELLER, 1010 Water St., Port Townsend. One of WA's oldest & best wine shops! Est. 1982. Surprising values as well as rare and older vintages. Open every day, yearround. We ship • www.PTWineSeller.com 360-385-7673 • 888-MAX-WINE (629-9463)

22-23 WSD

12/8/08

2:33 PM

Page 23

Southwest Washington SALUT! WINE CO.,16020 SE Mill Plain Blvd, Suite 105, Vancouver. Tues-Sat: 10 am-6 pm. Sunday 12-5. 360-891-5505 • salutwine.com

Spokane HUCKLEBERRY’S Natural Market, Spokane, 926 S. Monroe, (509) 624-1349. The Inland Northwest’s largest selection of the world’s wines. www.huckleberrysnaturalmarket.com VINO! Wine Shop, where you don’t need to know a lot about wine. Join our discount buying club or our “Wine of the Month Club.” Wine tasting every Friday & Saturday. Join the fun at 222 S. Washington St., Spokane, WA 800-826-5674 • 509-838-1229 • vinowine.com WILLIAMS SEAFOOD MARKET & WINES, 10627 E. Sprague Ave.,Spokane. Case discounts! “Treat yourself tonight!.” 509-922-4868 WilliamsSeafoodMarketandWines.com

Washington Coast THE CELLAR WINE SHOPPE, Ocean Shores, 668 Ocean Shores Blvd NW. Open: Thurs-Mon. 360-289-2909 • www.thecellarwineshoppe.com

Central Washington CHEESEMONGER'S SHOP, Leavenworth, WA 819 Front St. German & WA wines; over 90 cheeses, 100 imported beers. Join our monthly "Cheese of the Month" Club. 509-548-9011 877-888-7389 • www.cheesemongersshop.com CHELAN RED APPLE MARKET Wine Dept. 310 Manson Hwy. Chelan, WA. Extensive wine department; huge selection from Chelan & Pacific Northwest • Wine Club • On-line sales www.GreatWinesNW.com • 509-682-4521 ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS ** We Ship Wine! ** 509-962-8463 • EllensburgWineWorks.com

STEMS, NW wines & gifts, 411 E. Yakima Ave., downtown Yakima, in the Hilton Garden Inn, Open Monday-Saturday 10-6 Tastings: Wednesdays, 12-7 • 509-452-8800 YOKE’S FRESH MARKETS, Featuring Extensive NW wine selection & world cheeses. 3 locations to serve you in the Tri-Cities with Wine Specialists in all locations. Pasco: 5455600 & Kennewick: 585-0888 & West Richland: 967-8000 or go to: www.yokesfoods.com

Oregon Greater Portland Area BRENTWOOD WINE COMPANY — Internet fine wine auctions. Titanium Schott Zwiesel crystal wholesale & retail. The Northwest's largest buyer of fine wine. For free appraisal, email wine list: appraisals@brentwoodwine.com (503) 638 WINE • www.brentwoodwine.com CORNELL WINE COMPANY, Portland, 14740 NW Cornell Rd. #90. Open Tues - Sat 10-7 pm. Tastings: Friday & Saturday (503) 531-3981 mick@cornellwine.com • www.cornellwine.com E & R WINE SHOP, 6141 SW Macadam, Ste 104, Portland, (503) 246-6101. 2,200 different wines in stock. Tues.-Fri. 10-6:30; Sat. 9:30-6. 1-877-410-8654 • erwines@earthlink.net GREAT WINE BUYS, 1515 NE Broadway, Portland, OR 97232 Open 7 days a week. (503) 287-2897 • www.greatwinebuys.com MT. TABOR FINE WINES, 4316 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland. Tues-Sat. Great Friday tastings! 503-235-4444 • www.mttaborfinewines.com OREGON WINES ON BROADWAY, 515 SW Broadway, Portland. 503-228-4655. Select from more than 500 Oregon and Washington wines by the bottle or 30 Oregon wines by the glass/ taste in our wine bar in downtown Portland. Web site: www.oregonwinesonbroadway.com

THE GRAPE Quincy Wine Cellar, Quincy, WA 2 “D” St. SE. Fine wine, select beers, private labels. We ship! Open Mon-Sat.509-787-5170

RENAISSANCE PREMIUM WINES & CIGARS 1320 NE Orenco Station Pkwy; Hillsboro, OR Large selection; wine tastings; wine bar 503-615-8676 • www.renaissancewines.com

GIFTS OF THE VINE, Ellensburg, WA. 421 N Pearl St. Suite 100; Tues-Sat afternoons, Pacific NW wines & gifts; Fri eve/Sat Tastings giftsofthevine@gmail.com • 509-925-1020

TASTE, 8428 SW 22nd Ave., Portland. NW Wine Bar & Bottle Shop. E-mail for specials: tastewineshop@yahoo.com • 971-235-3290

LONE PINE FRUIT & ESPRESSO, 23041 Hwy 97 between Wenatchee & Chelan, 17 mi N. of Orondo. Regional wines, specialty foods, gifts. www.lonepinefruit.com • 509-682-1514 MANSON RED APPLE MARKET WINES The best local wines of the Chelan Valley in one convenient location: 1610 Wapato Way in Manson, WA near beautiful Lake Chelan. Daily 6 a.m.-10 p.m. • (509) 687-3168 THE WINE BIN, 206 N. Mission, Wenatchee, WA. Local, NW & world-wide wines. • 509-663-3007

Yakima, Tri-Cities, Walla Walla, Pullman THE OLD POST OFFICE WINE CELLAR & GALLERY, 245 SE Paradise, Pullman. Large selection: wines, cheeses, beers; Wine Club 509-338-9463 • opowines.com

Southern Oregon CHATEAULIN RESTAURANT & WINE SHOPPE, 50 E. Main, Ashland, 541-488-9463. JACKSONVILLE INN WINE & GIFT SHOP Extensive list of hard-to-find wines. Dinner guests can select from over 2,000 wines (541) 899-1900 (800) 321-9344 • jacksonvilleinn.com PACIFIC WINE TASTING ROOM, Medford,OR 3588 Heathrow Way. Open Tues-Sun: 11-5 Tastings: Fri 5-7:30; Sat & Sun 11-5. 1-800-792-6410 • www.pacificwineclub.com

Eastern Oregon GREAT PACIFIC WINES & COFFEE CO., 403 S. Main St., Pendleton, OR. (541) 276-1350 Mon-Thurs: 10-8; Fri: 10-9; Sat: 8:30 am-8 pm

Columbia River Gorge THE WINE SELLERS, 514 State St., Hood River, OR 97031.Extensive selection of domestic & imported wines.Special orders, French bread, gift baskets. 541-386-4647. www.wine-sellers.com

Yamhill County OREGON WINE TASTING ROOM & Bellevue Market, Oregon’s original wine tasting room! • Tasting Room open daily, 11 am - 5:45 pm • Bellevue Market open daily, 9 am - 6 pm 7 mi SW of McMinnville on Hwy 18 at Bellevue 503-843-3787 • owtr2003@yahoo.com www.oregonwinetastingroom.com PONZI WINE BAR, corner of Hwy 99 & 7th St. in Dundee. Featuring over 140 wines from Oregon's top vintners.Taste Ponzi Vineyards current releases plus ever changing selections from guest wineries. Light fare, Illy coffee, Oregon microbrews, & gifts. Open daily • 503.554.1500.

Salem, Corvallis, Eugene COLEMAN WINES/JEWELERS, 255 SW Madison Ave., Corvallis. Fine wines & jewelry. Daily tastings: Mon-Sat • 541-753-3721 SANTIAM WINE CO., 1930 Commercial St. Salem. Specialty wines. We ship! M-Sat 11-6. 503-589-0775 www.santiamwine.com SUNDANCE WINE CELLARS, 2441 Hilyard St. Eugene. Experience the most comprehensive wine shop in Eugene featuring Oregon's largest selection of fine wines from around the world; specializing in Oregon & Washington wines. Enjoy our complimentary wine tastings every Friday & Saturday 4:00-6:00 PM. Visit Oregon Wine Merchants, our online store at www.orwines.com or speak directly with one of our wine stewards at 800-679-4637.

Oregon Coast THE CELLAR ON 10TH, Astoria. Corner of 10th & Marine Dr. Finest selection of regional wines. Wine bar; weekly tastings; storage; gifts. (503) 325-6600 • www.thecellaron10th.com E-mail us: thecellaron10th@aol.com GRAPE LEAF, 1269 Bay St., Florence, OR (541) 997-1646 gsisson@oregonfast.net TIFFANY’S DRUG, Bandon Shopping Center, Bandon, OR. (541) 347-4438. Over 1000 fine wines. Largest fine wine selection on the Oregon Coast. www.tiffanywineshop.com THE WINE SHACK, 124 N. Hemlock, Cannon Beach, (503) 436-1100. www.beachwine.com. Oregon Coast’s best source of fine wines for over 30 years. Best of Oregon, NW, California and world! Older Bordeaux vintages available.

Idaho • MUSIC OF THE VINE • Fine Wine • Quality Food • Live Music 2805 Blaine, Ste 130; Caldwell, ID 83605 (located in The Willows business complex) (208) 454-1228 • www.musicofthevine.com

24-27 Front of Book

12/9/08

10:37 AM

Page 24

WINE VIEWS

Prosser, Wash., a boom town for value BY BARGAIN BOB WOEHLER

Bargain Bob is always willing to go that extra mile to find cheap but good wines. This time, he’s in Prosser, Wash. Of course, you can always find wines

for less than $10 from the big guys such as Hogue Cellars and Snoqualmie Vineyards. But did you know about wines in the $6 to $16 range from wineries such as

Airfield Estates, Desert Wind Winery, Kestrel Vintners, Thurston Wolfe and Willow Crest Winery? Prosser is a mecca for bargain wines under Bargain Bob’s criteria and for folks who enjoy the classic, even reserve wines at reasonably decent prices. This tidy farming community now has about 25 wineries within a compact area that makes it easy for folks on the tasting room trail. One of the best stops in Prosser is the new winery park featuring The Winemaker’s Loft, an incubator building for startup wineries. The Loft is surrounded by several newer stand-alone wineries off of Exit 80 on Interstate 82. Airfield Estates 2007 unoaked Chardonnay, $16: Ripe citrus and tropical fruit carry

through to a crisp, dry finish. This fruitforward wine is delightful on its own or pairs nicely with seafood dishes. Desert Wind Winery 2006 Viognier, Columbia Valley, $15: Lush peach and

orange blossom on the nose give way to crisp acidity and lingering fruit on the palate. Pair with Hawaiian chicken. Kestrel Vintners NV Lady in Red 6th Edition, Columbia Valley, $10: Worth the price just

for the blue bottle that has a Marilyn Monroe-like figure on it. This balanced blend shows aromas of blueberry and cherry. It’s followed by flavors of bright red fruit with some tobacco notes. Marilyn would love a burger with this. Kestrel Vintners NV Pure Platinum 4th Edition, Columbia Valley, $10: A Rita

Hayworth-like redhead graces the colored bottle. Inside is the brilliant spice of Gewürztraminer and the floral perfume of Viognier. Aromatic hints of honeysuckle and orange blossoms with flavors of citrus and peaches. Thurston Wolfe 2006 Wolfe’s Family Red, Columbia Valley, $16: A sassy berry food-

friendly blend of Syrah, Primitivo, Lemberger, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. Great with spaghetti and meatballs. Willow Crest Winery 2006 Rockin’ Rosé, Washington, $6: A rockin’ price, too for

this fruity, yet dry, Lemberger rosé, that’s sure to be a patio favorite. 24

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

24-27 Front of Book

12/9/08

10:37 AM

Page 25

WINE NEWS

Oregon’s Papa Pinot David Lett dies, 69 David Lett, whose 1975 Pinot Noir put Oregon on the global wine map, died Oct. 9 of heart failure. He was 69. He died surrounded by family at his home in Dundee, said his son, Jason. In 1965, David Lett arrived in Oregon as one of the earliest to see the potential for Pinot Noir in the northern Willamette Valley. He settled in Dundee and planted 3,000 vines to launch a vineyard and winery called The Eyrie Vineyard. His 1975 Pinot Noir ranked high in a 1979 blind judging in France against Burgundies. The judging caused the head of the famed Drouhin family to take a closer look and, ultimately, buy land, plant a vineyard and launch Domaine Drouhin Oregon — just up the hill from Eyrie. Lett also pioneered Pinot Gris, now Oregon’s No. 1 white wine. “No one knows where Oregon’s wine industry would be without David,” Gov. Ted Kulongoski said in a news release. “But we do know that his 3,000 vines were the beginning of creating Oregon’s world-renowned Pinot Noir.” Jason Lett said his father first fell in love with wine when he came to California’s Napa Valley to study dentistry. Distracted by the burgeoning industry, he soon dropped dentistry — “like a hot rock,” Jason Lett said — to study wine full time.

E.B. Foote co-owner dies Rich Higginbotham, co-owner/winemaker for E.B. Foote Winery in Burien, Wash., died Sept. 15. He was 61. The West Virginia native served in the U.S. Army during Vietnam and was discharged at Fort Lewis in 1971. A year later, he met Sherrill Miller. In 1991, the couple bought the winery from Eugene Foote. In 2003, Higginbotham was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s. Miller took over more of the responsibilities as the disease progressed. E.B. Foote will release a special red blend in 2009 called “Remembrance.” W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

24-27 Front of Book

12/11/08

10:51 AM

Page 26

WINE NEWS

Seattle-based outfitter develops wine preserver BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

PlatyPreserve offers the latest approach to preserving an opened bottle of wine. While not elegant, it might be the simplest. And it’s quite effective. What makes it even better is that it’s offered by a Seattle company wellknown in the hiking community for dependable sporting goods lines such as MSR and Therm-a-Rest. In 1972, two laid-off Boeing engineers who were outdoor enthusiasts developed the Therm-a-Rest as a sleeping pad for backpackers. They called their company Cascade Designs, Inc. In 1996, Cascade Designs bought a company that came up with a hydration system for hikers called The Playtpus — a flexible, collapsible and highly portable plastic bladder that’s ideal for a backpack. All those mindless miles I spent on the trail and never did this wine writer consider using the Playtpus as wine vessel, much less as means to preserve wine. But it makes sense. You merely pour wine into the PlatyPreserve and place the screwcap on loosely. Gently squeeze the air out of the Platy until the wine is just about ready to come

out of the top. The concept is akin to a FoodSaver bag for wine. By squeezing the PlatyPreserve before tightening its

cap, you’ve remove virtually all of the air that would normally come into contact with the wine. Oxidation is greatly reduced, and the dark-red bag diminishes exposure to ultraviolet light. (In a clear Platypus for hikers, red wine appears to be blood and white wine akin to a different bodily fluid.) Among the PlatyPreserve’s other features are that it is taste-free, reusable, rinses with just water, is made in the USA and costs just $13 for a 27-ounce bag. I first used the PlatyPreserve at home for a leftover bottle of delicate Pinot Noir, and I noticed virtually no degradation after three days. I don’t know about the claim that it will preserve wine for six months, but I can foresee a week or more. It is the “bag in the box” concept. I doubt that my PlatyPreserve ever will be used in conjunction with my tried-and-true Platypus drinking tube, but my wife plans on me packing a PlatyPreserve filled with Northwest wine during a 2009 trek at Mount Rainier National Park. The PlatyPreserve is available at REI stores and online at rei.com. For information, contact Cascade Designs at cascadedesigns.com.

‘Pacific Pinot’ explores portion of West Coast Pacific Pinot Noir, by John Winthrop Haeger, University of California Press, 2008, $22

John Winthrop Haegar picks up where he left off with North American Pinot Noir (2004) with a comprehensive study of Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains to Santa Barbara, Calif. Haegar, who should be considered one of America’s leading experts on the most elusive and infuriating wine grape, spent considerable time to 26

research (and taste) Pinot Noir up and down the West Coast. He tackles a variety of Sideways questions that didn’t exist when he wrote his first book on the subject and provides an A to Z review of selected wineries. Oregon is well represented in this book, as it should be, though the focus is on the six appellations of the north Willamette Valley. One might wonder, however, if Haeger might want to explore the outer edges of Pacific Pinot Noir in the next edition by taking in some of the efforts in Washington’s Puget Sound and Chelan areas as well as the much more established Pinot producers in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Andrew Jefford’s Wine Course, by Andrew Jefford, Ryland Peters & Small, $30

British wine writer Andrew Jefford has written a wonderfully complex and layered book that reveals a greater understanding about the wine world around us. This hardcover book would make a great gift for any wine lover — beginner to expert — because it offers so much information in an easy-to-use format. I especially appreciated the region-byregion and country-by-country look at wine. Jefford shows a surprising level of knowledge and insight of each region and offers tips on how best to compare wines and learn more. — Andy Perdue W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

24-27 Front of Book

12/9/08

10:52 AM

Page 27

WINE NEWS

Columbia Winery stays in Woodinville Columbia Winery will continue operating in Woodinville, Wash., directly across the street from Chateau Ste. Michelle. Ascentia Wine Estates, which bought Columbia, Covey Run and Ste. Chapelle from Constellation in June 2008, announced Nov. 21 that it had signed a long-term lease on the former Haviland Winery building. In Dec. 2007, Constellation announced plans to close Columbia Winery, which moved into the building in 1989 and has been a staple for Woodinville wine tourism since. Ascentia CEO Jim DeBonis said, “The decision to keep Columbia Winery in Woodinville was important to us. It was paramount to Ascentia’s growth plan, for our Columbia Winery brand and for the protection of employees in the Northwest. It is also essential to our local consumers, tourists and distributors.”

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:32 AM

Page 28

A wine loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to Seattle STORY & PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:36 AM

Page 29

ike the rest of Washington state, The Emerald City has become more burgundy since the last time Wine Press Northwest published a visitor’s guide to Seattle. In 2000, there were only a handful of wineries and wine bars that made their home in this Puget Sound city, and those local businesses often had trouble thriving. “We had a number of wine bars that tried to open up say 10 years ago and failed,” said Paul Beveridge, winemaker at Wilridge Winery in Seattle and co-owner of The Tasting Room downtown. Now, with more than a dozen wineries and even more wine bars, the growing popularity of wine in Seattle is as plain to see as the Space Needle is on its skyline. “The number of young people into wine has just continued to increase. It’s becoming a real youth movement in Seattle, which I just love to see,” said Beveridge. “It looks finally that wine bars like ours are finally economically viable. We seem to be getting more of a wine culture, not just a beer culture, in Seattle. And now with about 600 wineries in the state...there’s just more buzz.” There are certainly more than enough opportunities in Seattle these days to whet the palate of the hardest-to-please wine aficionados without them needing to venture beyond the city limits. Come with us to see where...

The Space Needle as seen from the archway of a sculpture at the Seattle Center. F O R M O R E P H O T O S O F S E AT T L E A N D A M A P O F L O C AT I O N S G O T O : W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-39 Seattle

12/10/08

F E AT U R E

4:16 PM

Page 30

seattle

Kurt Johnson, one of the owners of Ward Johnson Winery, pours some Chardonnay for a tasting room visitor.

WINERIES

ost of the wineries in Seattle are boutique establishments that source their grapes from the sunnier side of the Cascades. Because many are open only on special occasions or by appointment, and a few are not open to the public at all, you may actually have better luck sampling Seattle wines in the wine bars and restaurants in the city than at the wineries themselves. If you are interested in a particular winery, the best advice is to check out their Web site for special events they may be having or a list of locations that sell their wine. Or phone them. They 30

may just have someone around who is willing to meet you there. WA R D J O H N S O N W I N E RY

1445 Elliott Ave. W. Seattle, WA 98119 206-284-2635 wardjohnsonwinery.com

This small and relatively new winery was started by two winemaking brothers and their wives, Charles and Tammara Johnson along with Kurt and Sherri Johnson, all of whom grew up in Richland, Wash. Both Sherri and Tammara had the maiden name of Ward — even though they were not related — which accounts for the rest of the winery’s name. The two couples’ Eastern

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Washington connections have helped them get some great fruit to work with. From Red Mountain, they get Merlot from Hedges North Block, Syrah from Ranch at the End of the Road and Cabernet Sauvignon from Kiona Vineyards. They also produce a Chardonnay using grapes from the Columbia Valley’s Sun River Vineyard. This family business started as a hobby based out of a laundry room and pantry, migrated into various garages and basements over the years and finally, when carboys gave way to French oak barrels, they started renting space at Elliott Avenue Wine Storage. In 2006, they bottled their first commercially available Chardonnay, followed in 2007, with the addition of their Merlot,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:46 AM

Page 31

seattle Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. This October they opened in their new location at the foot of Queen Anne Hill with an annual production of 400 cases. When asked why they’ve based their operation in Seattle, Kurt Johnson replied, “Living in the city is exciting, as is being a part of a burgeoning wine scene. New wine bars, bistros and restaurants abound. And here we are, an urban family winery, making our wines right here in the middle of it all. We love sharing this creative endeavor with our extended family members who live nearby and make up the major part of our volunteer cellar crew.” The owners of Ward Johnson Winery are making an effort to keep regular tasting hours. They are experimenting with what times will work best. Currently they are open weekends 1-5 p.m. and may be adjust hours after the first of the year. In addition to wine tasting and retail sales, they offer temperature-controlled wine storage lockers and space for pallets of wine for locals who need more room for their wine collections. M A R K E T C E L L A R W I N E RY

1432 Western Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 622-1880 marketcellarwinery.com

This tiny winery is just below the hill climb to Pike Place Market and sells home beer making supplies in addition to their very reasonably priced Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Market Red. Hours are Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., with special tastings on Saturdays from noon to 6 p.m. ANIMALE

F E AT U R E

S O U T H S E AT T L E A RT I S A N W I N E R I E S

ssaw.info

This is an association of eight wineries in South Seattle. Four members, Stomani Cellars & Winery, Sodovino, Falling Rain Cellars and Elsom Cellars, comprise the Atlantic St. Artisan Vintners (atlanticstvintners.com), a co-op sharing warehouse space in Seattle’s SoDo neighborhood. Of the others, Nota Bene Cellars and Cadence Winery are neighbors in the same building, while the larger producers, Fall Line Winery and O·S Winery, have their own separate facilities.

John Farias, winemaker at Market Cellar Winery.

The association has joint open houses throughout the year, usually on Saturdays. Check out their Web site for dates and a handy map. S T O M A N I C E L L A R S & W I N E RY

C A D E N C E W I N E RY

85 S. Atlantic St., Suite 110 Seattle, WA 98134 206-340-6137 stomanicellars.com

9320 15th Ave. S, Unit CF Seattle, WA 98108 206-381-9507 cadencewinery.com

Open for special events or by appointment.

SODOVINO

N O TA B E N E C E L L A R S

85 S. Atlantic St., Suite 110 Seattle, WA 98134 206-794-0966 sodovino.com

9320 15th Ave. S., Unit CC Seattle, WA 98108 206-459-2785 notabenecellars.com

Open for special events or by appointment.

FA L L I N G R A I N C E L L A R S

FA L L L I N E W I N E RY

85 S. Atlantic St., Suite 110 Seattle, WA 98134 206-390-2567 fallingrainwines.com

6122 Sixth Ave. S. Seattle, WA 98108 206-768-9463 falllinewinery.com

Open for special events or by appointment.

ELSOM CELLARS

O · S W I N E RY

7061 13th Ave. NW Seattle, WA 98117 (206) 782-8047 animalewine.com

85 S. Atlantic St., Suite 110 Seattle, WA 98134 206-349-3244 elsomcellars.com

1501 S. 92nd Place, Suite B Seattle, WA 98108 206-243-3427 oswinery.com

Open for special events or by appointment.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

F E AT U R E

11:47 AM

Page 32

seattle DeLaurenti’s wine selection includes Seattle wines such as Stomani Cellars with other Northwest wines and a large selection of Italian imports.

DeLaurenti’s deli bar stocks its shelves with imported foods. W I L R I D G E W I N E RY

206-325-3051 wilridgewinery.com

Although this winery is not open to the public, you can sample its wines downtown at The Tasting Room, a combination wine bar and wine shop, which is co-owned by the winemaker.

with a certain dish you’re planning to prepare so you don’t have to end up guessing what to buy. Many wine shops also offer special tastings so you can become more familiar with their inventory, from the well-known brands to the smaller producers you may only be able to find there. D E L A U R E N T I S P E C I A LT Y FOOD & WINE

PRECEPT WINE BRANDS

Although it’s often useful for planning wine tasting trips, don’t be fooled by the listings on the Washington Wine Commission’s Web site (washingtonwine.org) when it comes to Precept Wine Brands’ labels, such as Barrelstone, Pavin & Riley, Pine & Post, Shimmer and Sweet Pea. Although its headquarters are based in Seattle, Precept Wine Brands, a large and growing conglomeration of wineries, does not produce its Washington wines in Seattle or have a tasting room there.

WINE SHOPS

hat wine shops offer vs. purchasing your wine at the typical grocery or liquor store is the expertise of their staff. A knowledgeable salesperson can recommend a great wine to go 32

1435 First Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 206-622-0141 delaurenti.com

If you’re a foodie and a wine lover, this is the place for you. This store is in Pike Place Market just down from Rachel the Pig and the folks throwing fish. In addition to a deli, a café, a huge selection of imported foods and about 250 cheeses, they also have more than 1,800 wines. They have what is probably the largest selection of Italian wines in town along with a respectable assortment of Northwest wines. The Cellar upstairs hosts free themed wine tastings every Saturday from 2-4 p.m. Some recent offerings were South African wines, Ports and Italian wines from Dalla Terra. Its Web site is updated frequently with profiles of different wines and wineries, and their e-mail newsletter

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

provides recipes and news about upcoming events. CHAMPION WINE CELLARS

108 Denny Way Seattle, WA 98109 206-284-8306 championwinecellars.com

French wines are Champion’s forté, a wine shop founded in 1969 by Emile Ninaud and his wife Stephanie, when Washington wine was in its infancy. Ninaud, who grew up in France, is one of the most knowledgeable wine shop owners in the region, and he is more than happy to share what he knows with novices and experts. There are many Northwest wines in addition to Old World wines among the 1500 or so selections in this small shop. And because it’s been in business for nearly four decades, Champion has quite a large collection of old and rare wines. Check out the free wine tastings on Saturdays, noon to 5 p.m. PIKE AND WESTERN WINE MERCHANTS

1934 Pike Place Seattle, WA 98101 206-441-1307 pikeandwestern.com

Founded in 1975 this wine shop

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:49 AM

Page 33

seattle

F E AT U R E

Wine glasses are on display at Pike and Western Wine Merchants.

across the street from Pike Place Market focuses on Washington and Oregon wines. It offers several different tastings at the store. On Wednesdays, you can drop in to taste limited production bottlings for a $5 fee between 4-6 p.m. On Fridays, you can taste some of its new arrivals free of charge. Reservations are needed for special themed tastings for which the fees vary. To find out about these special tastings, sign up for their email newsletter online. ESQUIN WINE MERCHANTS

2700 Fourth Ave. S. Seattle, WA 98134 206-682-7374 esquin.com

At more than 4,000 selections, this wine shop in SoDO is arguably the largest in the Northwest. It will celebrate its 40th anniversary in 2009, and business is so good it prompted the creation of the Esquin Wine Annex in the back of the store. Consumer education is a high priority at Esquin. Staff members include certified sommeliers to help patrons select an ideal wine. Free tastings are offered Thursdays and Saturdays. Esquin also conducts wine classes on Sunday afternoons at the Warwick Seattle Hotel.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Sign up for the monthly newsletter, or e-mail the shop to learn about special sales or events. And if you run out of room for your collection, Esquin rents climatecontrolled wine storage lockers.

Seattle, WA 98104 206-340-5999 M A D I S O N PA R K C E L L A R S

4227 E. Madison St. No. 1D Seattle, WA 98112 206-323-9333

CITY CELLARS FINE WINES M C C A RT H Y & S C H I E R I N G WINE MERCHANTS

1710 N. 45th Suite No. 1 Seattle, WA 98103 (206) 632-7238 citycellar.com

Tastings are held Friday evenings from 5-7 p.m. and cost $3 to $5 for a flight of up to three wines. EUROPEAN VINE SELECTIONS O F WA S H I N G T O N

Free tastings at both locations are Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

522 15th Ave. E. Seattle, WA 98112 206-323-3557 evswines.com

S E AT T L E C E L L A R S

2505 Second Ave. No. 102 Seattle, WA 98121 206-256-0850 seattlecellars.com

1 2 T H & O L I V E W I N E C O M PA N Y

1125 E. Olive St. Seattle, WA 98122 206-329-2399 12thandolive.com

Buy a $10 Riedel tasting glass and remember to bring it with you. After that, Thursday tastings are free. URBAN VINES

Tastings at this Capitol Hill store are every Friday from 5-8 p.m. and Saturdays from 1-5 p.m. GRAND CENTRAL WINE MERCHANTS

121 First Ave. S. Suite Ll2

2401 Queen Anne Ave. N. Suite B Seattle, WA 98109 206-282-8500 6500 Ravenna Ave. NE Seattle, WA 98115 206-524-9500 mccarthyandschiering.com

3605 S McClellan St. Seattle, WA 98144 206-721-3456 urbanvines.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T â&#x20AC;˘ W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

F E AT U R E

11:50 AM

Page 34

seattle

Wildridge winemaker Paul Beveridge enjoys wine with some friends at his other business, The Tasting Room.

W E S T S E AT T L E C E L L A R S

6026 California Ave. SW Seattle, WA 98136 206-937-2868 wscellars.com

Drop by 5:30-8 p.m. Thursdays for free tastings. THE WINE OUTLET

1701 First Ave. S Seattle, WA 98134 206-652-1311 946 Elliott Ave. W. Seattle, WA 98119 206-285-1129 seattlewineoutlet.com

Richard Kinssies, who owns both locations, has written about wine since 1979. He also has been a sommelier, a wine judge, a wine educator, a wine bar owner and a restauranteur. PETE'S WINE SHOP

58 E. Lynn St. Seattle, WA 98102 206-322-2660 petes.cc

Want eco-friendly wines? Pete’s got ‘em. Wine tastings are every Saturday from 3-6 p.m. JACK CELLARS

8016 15th Ave. NE

Seattle, WA 98115 206-729-5988 jackcellars.com

Wine tastings on Wednesdays start at 5 p.m. and on Saturdays at 4 p.m. FULL THROTTLE BOTTLES

5909 Airport Way S. Seattle, WA 98108 206-763-2079 fullthrottlebottles.com

This shop has a better variety of beer than wine, and also carries ciders, meads and sodas. CHEAP WINE STORE

6523 California Ave. SW No. 267 Seattle, WA 98136 866-804-0342 cheapwinestore.com

The goal of this store is great wine at great prices, and most of their 2,500 wines are from the Northwest.

WINE SHOPS / WINE BARS

ome Seattle businesses are both wine shop and wine bar rolled into one, giving customers a great opportunity to taste a

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

sip or even a glass or carafe of wine before deciding on a larger purchase. T H E TA S T I N G R O O M W I N E S O F WA S H I N T O N

1924 Post Alley Seattle, WA 98101 206-770-9463 winesofwashington.com

When Paul Beveridge, the winemaker at Wilridge Winery, was visiting wine regions in Europe, he discovered something he hadn’t seen before in the United States, something he thought would solve his problem of having a tasting room at his out-of-the-way winery in a “sleepy little Seattle neighborhood.” “When you go to a little town in say Burgundy or Barolo, the local wine producers will rent a nice space in the basement of the local castle and put up a wine bar...and they will serve a wine from every producer in the region,” said Beveridge. “So instead of having to drive all over the countryside trying to find these places, everybody promotes themselves in one location, and I thought, ‘God! What a great idea! We should do this in the United States.’ So I came back, and that’s when I found out it was illegal.”

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:52 AM

Page 35

seattle

Wendy Wilhelmi, left, serves a tasting flight to Andrea Gleason, center, and LaJeanne Jones, right, at The Tasting Room.

Most people would have given up at this point, but not Beveridge. His day job is that of an attorney. “I spent a couple of years in Olympia getting the law changed, and now each winery in Washington, in addition to having a tasting room at their winery facility, can have two more.” Beveridge also figured out more than one winery could claim the same location for their additional tasting room. So six years ago, he opened his co-op near Pike Place Market, the first of its kind in the state. Beveridge picked his location over Woodinville because he says, “We decided to be in Pike Place near the food, because food and wine are so important, and to be near a more ‘happening’ nightlife in downtown Seattle, near the restaurants.” The Tasting Room features 75 to 100 wines at a time, available as oneounce pours, half or full glasses, carafes, bottles or cases. In addition to wines from Wilridge Winery and those of Beveridge’s partner at the wine bar, Robert Goodfriend of Harlequin Wine Cellars, you can also taste and purchase those from Camaraderie Cellars, Latitude 46° N, Mountain Dome, Naches Heights Vineyard and Wineglass Cellars. The Tasting Room has some appe-

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

F E AT U R E

Jen Doak pours a glass of wine at The Tasting Room.

tizer plates to go with your wine. You’ll find cured meats from Salumi, a cheese sampler, Theo chocolates from Fremont and sometimes Beecher’s macaroni and cheese. If you want something more filling, you can order pizza from Pagliacci and they’ll deliver it to you at The Tasting Room. And there’s free Wi-Fi. So what’s next for Beveridge? He and Goodfriend recently opened a sister Tasting Room in Yakima, and he’d like to open yet another in Walla Walla, Spokane or Vancouver. But first he’ll need to get the law changed. VERVE WINE BAR & CELLAR

3820 S. Ferdinand St. Seattle, WA 98118 206-760-0977 vervewinebar.com

This wine shop has a wine bar with full kitchen that opens at 4 p.m. They have about two dozen wines available as full or half glass pours. On Tuesdays, from 6-8 p.m. they have themed tastings of six different wines for $15. P O RTA L I S W I N E S H O P & W I N E B A R

5205 Ballard Ave. NW Seattle, WA 98107 206-783-2007 portaliswines.com

This wine shop has a wine bar that opens at 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays, and at noon on the weekend. There’s about 30 wines by the glass on the menu, along with a couple of wine-paired entrées, and other dishes. SWIRL WINE BAR

3217 W. McGraw St. Seattle, WA 98199 206-327-9221 swirlmagnolia.com

This Magnolia district wine bar has about 60 wines available by the glass. Everything they pour is also available for retail purchase to take home with you. Truffled popcorn is one of the unique treats on its small plates menu. Open daily at 4 p.m. Closed Sundays.

WINE BARS THE LOCAL VINE S E AT T L E W I N E B A R

2520 Second Ave. Seattle, WA 98121 206-441-6000 thelocalvine.com

Sarah Munson and Allison Nelson, two Harvard Business School grads, set out to make The Local Vine a

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

F E AT U R E

11:52 AM

Page 36

seattle place with a relaxing, almost coffee house atmosphere. To that end, here you are encouraged to hang out in comfy chairs by their fireplace and use your laptop with free Wi-Fi while you sip one of more than 100 wines from the Northwest and around the world that they have available by the glass. Local Vine also offers a selection of small plates of food made with locally sourced, organic ingredients to go with your wine. Doors open at 4 p.m. seven days a week. Check the Web site for information on special tastings and wine and food classes. POCO WINE ROOM

1408 E. Pine St. Seattle, WA 98122 206-322-9463 pocowineroom.com

The focus at this Capitol Hill wine bar is Northwest wines, with around 30 wines from Washington and Oregon available on any given day, many available as glass pours. It also features small plates, appetizers and desserts with portions generous enough to make a real meal. It is are open six nights a week starting at 5 p.m., but closed on Sundays.

WINE BARS / RESTAUR ANTS

any wine bars have small plates of appetizers, antipasto or hors d’ouerves, but a few have a full-sized kitchen and restaurant. If you want to hang out and sip some wine before or after dinner, this makes it oh so convenient. PURPLE CAFÉ AND WINE BAR

Steelhead Diner

1225 4th Ave. S. Seattle, WA 98134 (206) 829-2280 thepurplecafe.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

After Purple Café and Wine Bar found success in Woodinville and Kirkland, it opened its Seattle location in 2006. All three locations strive for a hip urban look and feel that appeals to a young crowd of wine drinkers. The food is a blend of American and Mediterranean using fresh Northwest ingredients. Anything on their extensive wine list is available by the glass or half glass. Sampling flights also are offered. No corkage fee on the first bottle you bring in of any wine it doesn’t carry. Open daily for lunch and dinner. SMASH WINE BAR & BISTRO

1401 N. 45th St. Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-3232 smashwine.com

Their tag line here is “Where wine and food collide.” They have several sampling flights and more than 30 wines available as glass pours, along with cocktails and beer. Smash serves appetizers and full-size entrées and is open at 5 p.m. daily. IMPROMPTU WINE BAR CAFE

4235 E. Madison St. Seattle, WA 98112 206-860-1569 impromptuwinebar.com

Selections by the glass come from around the world and change frequently. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. BRICCO DELLA REGINA ANNA

1525 Queen Anne Ave. N Seattle, WA 98109 206-285-4900 briccoseattle.com

The focus at Bricco is small producers from Italy and the Northwest. The menu, which is mostly Italian, changes seasonally. Open MondaySaturday 5 p.m.-1 a.m. 3 5 T H S T R E E T B I S T R O R E S TA U R A N T

709 N. 35th St.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:54 AM

Page 37

seattle

Elliott Bay shipping activity can be watched from Anthony’s Pier 66.

Pike Place Market workers happily display their catch of the day.

Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-9850 35bistro.com

Both Old and New World wines are on the menu at this European country-style restaurant. THE CREPE CAFE AND WINE BAR

2118 NE 65th St. Seattle, WA 98115 206-527-7147 crepesandwine.com

Sweet or savory crepes are available as a meal or just dessert to go with your wine or espresso in this European-style café. GENEVE CAFE & WINE BAR

4459 Fremont Ave. Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-0570 genevecafeseattle.com

Hard-to-find Old World wines are on the menu. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner with the caveat on its Web site, “time subject to management’s moods.” There is free Wi-Fi.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

F E AT U R E

This casual diner is a half-block up from Pike Place Market with a view of the market, Elliott Bay and the Olympic mountains.

E VA R E S TA U R A N T & W I N E B A R

2227 N. 56th St. Seattle, WA 98103 206-633-3538 evarestaurant.com

Both wine and food are from the Northwest. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

This Mediterranean-influenced restaurant is open 5-10 p.m. daily.

WAT E R F R O N T S E A F O O D G R I L L

RESTAUR ANTS

2801 Alaskan Way Seattle, WA 98121

he following restaurants have been recognized for their outstanding Northwest wine lists by Wine Press Northwest and have been featured either as a wine list award winner or as a Match Maker. So rest assured, if you like Northwest wine, you’ll like what these restaurants have to offer. STEELHEAD DINER

95 Pine St. Seattle, WA 98101 206-625-0129 steelheaddiner.com

206-956-9171 waterfrontpier70.com

At the end of Pier 70 you get some great views of both Elliot Bay and the Space Needle. Winemaker dinners are occasionally available. EL GAUCHO

2505 1st Ave. Seattle, WA 98121 206-728-1337 elgaucho.com

Steak and seafood, with live music and dancing on Saturday nights.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

28-39 Seattle

12/11/08

F E AT U R E

10:56 AM

Page 38

seattle

Whether you go to the Edgewater for a meal or a night’s stay, you will see views of Elliott Bay and perhaps the Olympic Mountains. ICON GRILL

The Westin’s round towers aim to give everyone a great view of the city.

1933 Fifth Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 206-441-6330 icongrill.net

Comfort food with a flair is on the menu in a funky artsy atmosphere across the street from the Westin. P O RT F O L I O R O O M AT T H E A RT I N S T I T U T E O F S E AT T L E

2600 Alaskan Way Seattle, WA 98121 206-239-2363 artinstitutes.edu

Allow the culinary students at The Art Institute of Seattle to show you what they’ve learned. T R O I A N I R I S T O R A N T E I TA L I A N O

1001 Third Ave. Seattle, WA 98104 206-624-4060 troianiseattle.com

Steaks and Italian fare go with a wine list that has about 20 wines available by the glass. 9 4 S T E WA RT R E S TA U R A N T

94 Stewart St.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Seattle, WA 98101 206-441-5505 94stewart.com

This American bistro is at the top of Pike Place Market. There are no corkage fees on Sundays and several times a year special wine dinners are offered. WILD GINGER

1401 Third Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 206-623-4450 wildginger.net

The Yoders focus on authenic Asian cuisine and embrace Northwest wines. Underneath the restaurant is their The Triple Door music lounge. The famed Benayora Hall is across the street. D U L C E S L AT I N B I S T R O

1430 34th Ave. Seattle, WA 98122 206-322-5453 dulceslatinbistro.com

A fusion of French, Spanish and Italian with some Mexican flavor round out the Mediterranean and Latin cuisine at this Capitol Hill

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-39 Seattle

12/9/08

11:56 AM

Page 39

seattle spot. Its large collection of wines, including 40 different Ports, can be seen in their Wine Room, which is available for private dinners. A 30-page wine list gives you plenty to choose from. M E T R O P O L I TA N G R I L L

820 Second Ave. Seattle, WA 98104 206-624-3287 themetropolitangrill.com

Though well-rounded for a variety of tastes, the focus of The Met’s menu is on premium beef and West Coast red wines. ANTHONY'S PIER 66

2201 Alaskan Way Seattle, WA 98121 206-448-6688 anthonys.com

Anthony’s Bell St. Diner and Anthony’s Fish Bar also share space in the same building, so unless you just want a quick inexpensive bite, make sure you find Anthony’s Pier 66. There’s a great view of the bay, and if it’s warm enough you can sit outside. If you are coming by boat, moorage is available.

HOTELS E D G E WAT E R H O T E L

2411 Alaskan Way Pier 67 Seattle, WA 98121 800-624-0670 edgewaterhotel.com

This hotel is literally on the water, on Pier 67 to be exact. It has great views of Puget Sound and the Olympics on a clear day, and it is walking distance to most of the tourist attractions downtown. Its restaurant S I X - S E V E N has seafood pared with a sizable wine list featuring wine from many artisan wineries of Oregon and Washington,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

along with selections from California and around the world.

F E AT U R E

206-443-4300 warwickwa.com margauxseattle.com

T H E FA I R M O N T O LY M P I C H O T E L

This downtown hotels features inhouse restaurant B R A S S E R I E M A R G A U X which has what its describes as Northwest Nouvelle cuisine, basically Northwest cuisine with a French twist. The wine menu has a range of offerings that features plenty of Northwest wines.

411 University St. Seattle, WA 98101 206-621-1700 fairmont.com/seattle

This downtown hotel which is on the National Register of Historic Places has been around since the Roaring Twenties. One of its restaurants, T H E G E O R G I A N , has Frenchinspired Northwest cuisine with a lengthy wine list.

H O T E L V I N TA G E PA R K

1100 Fifth Ave. Seattle, WA 98101

W S E AT T L E

206-624-8000

1112 Fourth Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 877-946-8357 starwoodhotels.com earthocean.net

hotelvintagepark.com tulio.com

This boutique hotel clearly wants wine lovers to feel right at home. Each of its rooms is named after a Washington winery or vineyard. And each evening it hosts a wine hour in the lobby where you can sip a glass of Washington wine while socializing. Next to the lobby at T U L I O R I S T O R A N T E you can get Italian fare with a wine list heavy on Italian and West Coast wines.

This ultra-modern downtown highrise hotel features the E A RT H & O C E A N restaurant with its extensive wine list. The W Bar serves wine by the glass and cocktails. I N N AT T H E WA C

1325 Sixth Ave Seattle, WA 98101 206-622-7900 wac.net

I N N AT T H E M A R K E T

86 Pine St.

If you are a member of the private Washington Athletic Club or one of its 200-plus reciprocal clubs worldwide, you can stay at its luxurious hotel in downtown Seattle. The WAC is an athletic club, social club, spa and resort all rolled into one. It’s main restaurant, T O R C H Y ’ S R E S TA U R A N T A N D W I N E B A R , focuses on quality wines especially from the Northwest. Its wine bar has several wine flights available with small plates, and the restaurant has a 29-page wine list with about a dozen wines available by the glass.

Seattle, WA 98101 206-443-3600 innatthemarket.com campagnerestaurant.com baccobeverage.com

If Pike Place Market is your favorite place in Seattle, you can’t stay any closer than this. C A M PA G N E is a French bistro at the Inn that offers 400 different wines, mostly French and Northwest. If you prefer Italian food, try B A C C O , an Italian bistro and wine bar, named after Bacchus, the god of food and wine. ı

WA RW I C K S E AT T L E H O T E L

401 Lenora St. Seattle, WA 98121

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/10/08

4:57 PM

Page 40

WINE COUNTRY DESTINATIONS

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/10/08

4:59 PM

Page 41

WINE COUNTRY DESTINATIONS Once you get a taste of Sun Mountain ... you’ll never want to leave

800-572-0493 • Winthrop, WA sunmountainlodge.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/10/08

5:02 PM

Page 42

WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/10/08

5:04 PM

Page 43

WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

44-49 harvest

12/8/08

11:10 PM

Workers harvest grapes at Bitner Vineyards near Caldwell, Idaho.

Page 44

44-49 harvest

12/8/08

11:12 PM

Page 45

Harvest report 2008 crush will go down as a fall classic BY ERIC DEGERMAN

inemakers recited several sports metaphors in describing the 2008 harvest in the Pacific Northwest. They likened the vintage to mounting a fourth-quarter comeback, pulling off a ninth-inning rally or drawing to an inside straight. Regardless of the analogy, most enjoyed a winning season despite a cool spring and a summer of doubt. And few bothered with trying to put on a poker face. “We would just be laughing half of the time during harvest because the weather was so remarkable,” chuckled Greg Koenig, the winemaking brother at Koenig Distillery and Winery in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. “We were really lucky because September and October were sunny and warm. It was the most perfect harvest season ever.” Southern Oregon University climatologist Greg Jones, centerpiece of Wine Press Northwest’s Fall 2008 cover story on global climate change, put the early season temperatures into historical perspective during his Nov. 11 conference call with the Oregon Wine Board. “We started out with a cold, late winter, which continued into a very cool spring with March and April temperatures across the state anywhere from 2 to 4 degrees Fahrenheit below normal,” Jones said. “And the vines pretty much responded with bud break dates that ranged anywhere from two to

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

over four weeks later than normal.” Those figures were similar not only for Oregon, but also throughout the Pacific Northwest, he said. And yet, Mother Nature obliged most of the vines in the region, despite the early combination of a colder-than-normal northern Pacific Ocean, La Niña conditions in the tropics and rainfall for the year down 40 percent to 55 percent. “I think overall it was a vintage when we were faced with potential disaster,” Sam Tannahill, winemaker for Oregon giant A to Z Wineworks, told the Oregon Wine Board. “So looking at it now that we’re done picking, it’s almost one of those vintages where it feels like we were at the bottom of the ninth inning and five runs down and we managed to make it and win the game.” Once the wine goes into the bottle, the majority of Northwest vintners seems to believe the 2008 wines will go down as those with refreshing balance that showcase higher acidity and lower alcohol. That should mean better applications at the dining table and longer lived in the cellar than those birthed in some recent vintages. WA S H I N G T O N

BY THE SOUNDS OF IT, WADE WOLFE enjoyed his 31st vintage in Washington. The longtime viticulturalist and award-winning winemaker talked about the harvest while hanging Christmas lights at his Thurston

Wolfe Winery in Prosser. “The ripening dates were 10 to 14 days later than normal, at least compared to recent vintages,” said Wolfe, former GM at Hogue Cellars. “We had a few close brushes with frost, but by and large we had good weather through the end of October. The cooler temperatures kind of left the fruit in a refrigerator and allowed people to harvest in a rational manner.” Wolfe, who consults for several vineyards and wineries, devotes much of his time to the Horse Heaven Hills. Petite Sirah from Zephyr Ridge came in a bit later than normal. He concluded harvest Oct. 31 by taking in Lemberger from the upper Yakima Valley. “From my perspective, we picked at somewhat higher acidities and lower sugars than previous vintages, but they weren’t dramatic,” he said. “There’s been a bit of talk from folks about wanting better balance and lower alcohols, so maybe we will get our wish. And I certainly didn’t use very much tartaric acid. From that standpoint, this vintage is similar to 1999, so we should be making wines that are a little bit more elegant than the massive wines for the last few years.” Kate Michaud, head winemaker at Covey Run Winery, pulled in her second vintage for the 200,000-case facility in Zillah. She contracts with more than 30 vineyards throughout the state, and many of them dealt

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

44-49 harvest

12/8/08

F E AT U R E

11:15 PM

Page 46

harvest

Kate Michaud is Covey Run Winery’s head winemaker.

with record-cold temperatures for two weeks early in the growing process. “I had one grower tell me this was the coldest spring since 1985,” she said. “As a young winemaker, this vintage has thrown me some curves. You had to think harder because varieties weren’t ripening in the order in which they normally do. You had to adjust to it.” She pointed to her lower brix varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay as examples. Covey Run typically starts to pull them in at 22 brix right after Labor Day. “This year, we picked our first hot site (in Benton City) at low brix on the 15th of September,” Michaud said. “More dramatically, my last Sauvignon Blanc came in on October 2. But I am really pleased with the quality of lower brix whites.” 46

Gewürztraminer

Her Chardonnay lots were about a week tardy. On the other hand, Merlot and Syrah required less hang time than usual, she said. However, Michaud said some of her peers give late-ripening varieties Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon with a grade of “B,” blaming it on the condensed growing season. “Not every year can be a 4.0,” she said. Casey McClellan of Seven Hills Winery in Walla Walla told the Oregon Wine Board that harvest in his valley did not suffer despite heat units being shaved by about 10 percent. “Overall, I’m very excited about the wine quality,” he said. Michaud suspected the reduced number of scorching days during August contributed to the balance of the grapes. “At higher temperatures, over 95

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 O O 8 / 2 0 0 9

degrees (Fahrenheit), plants will just shut down, which delays ripening,” she said. “That usually will happen for a couple of weeks when we get those days in July and August.” OREGON

GRAPE GROWERS IN THE WILLAMETTE Valley reacted to the cool spring by reducing tonnage, but they still worried about ripening. “We did not start picking until the first week in October, which is quite late,” Tannahill said. “Usually, we’re seeing at least something coming in toward mid-September.” A prime example of that is Privé Vineyard in Newberg. The boutique winery within the Chehalem Mountains AVA predicted its case production of Pinot Noir dropped by about 20 percent, but winemaker and co-owner Tina Hammond isn’t complaining.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44-49 harvest

12/8/08

11:22 PM

Page 47

harvest

F E AT U R E

Greg Jones is a professor of environmental studies at Southern Oregon University in Ashland.

“We had a really perfect summer after we had a very late spring,” she said. “We had some rain, and Mother Nature did some thinning for us at that time, and a rather cool summer. The rains came in early and the cool weather came in early, so we thought we’d have a repeat of 2007. We dropped quite a bit of fruit in anticipation of struggling to get ripe, but the rain dried out after a couple of days and we had that beautiful Indian summer.” Harvest of her 2.5-acre vineyard on Oct. 19 was a bit late, but it yielded “incredible flavors and intensity that we’ve not ever seen before. It’s turned out to be a really special year. The brix and the acidity were where we wanted, but the intensity is over the top.” Bob Morus, owner of Phelps Creek Vineyard in Hood River, told the Oregon Wine Board that crops

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

were down 10 percent to 15 percent. The lower yields have some predicting higher prices for many wines, especially Pinot Noir. The warm harvest of 2008 also will be remembered for a historic cold snap that plagued much of the West Coast on Oct. 9-12. “A frost/freeze event of this magnitude had never occurred in early October in the majority of these wine regions, including most of Oregon,” Jones said. “However, the impact was really highly variable across sites and varieties.” He noted that from 40 percent to 60 percent of Oregon’s vintage already had been picked, “with the remainder of the fruit pretty much ready to come into wineries.” In the Umpqua Valley, Dr. Earl Jones of Abacela Vineyards & Winery in Roseburg continued to have fruit harvested through Nov. 10. And he

singled out Malbec as a variety that struggled to achieve ripeness. “Most things tracked pretty normal,” he said. “The Malbec was the thing that probably finished our year at the lowest alcohol levels. We didn’t have a single fermenter that went over 24 brix.” Fears were high in the Rogue Valley, the Northwest’s southernmost appellation. “We had a pretty bad hand dealt to us early in terms of there wasn’t much room for error because everything was running a little bit late,” said Gus Janeway of Velocity Cellars in Medford. “So we had to play the high risk and draw three or four cards, but it turned out that we were dealt a fabulous hand to finish off.” Tannahill also predicted greatness for many Oregon wines from the 2008 vintage. “Looking at it back again, that

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

44-49 harvest

12/8/08

F E AT U R E

11:30 PM

Page 48

harvest

game happened to be the seventh game of the World Series,” he said. “So I think we’re sitting on some great wines here and certainly perhaps some of the finest wines that I’ve seen. If I had to compare it to a vintage, I would look back at a comparison between ’99 and 2000. It has the structure of 2000 and the prettiness and the intensity of ’99.” BRITISH COLUMBIA

IN THE OKANAGAN VALLEY, WHICH IS THE province’s primary growing region, there didn’t seem to be quite as much concern heading into September because of the area’s reliable Indian summer and the protection provided by Okanagan Lake. Vineyards were one to two weeks behind schedule at the start of summer, but many caught up soon after veraison — the beginning of ripening. “The biggest determining factor came down to listening to Mother Nature and thinning your crop in June and July,” reported Jay Drysdale, the B.C. Wine Institute’s Vintner Quality Alliance liaison.

“Those that did pulled in some pretty good grapes; those that didn’t had to run the ripening gauntlet, and this season was a little wonky for ripening.” Some areas pulled in Merlot before Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Overall, the vintage is believed to be the coolest for heat units since 2000. And yet, the vintage came in well-received. “Across the board, everybody we talked to has been pretty pleased,” said Bob Ferguson, co-winemaker at Kettle Valley Winery on the Naramata Bench near Penticton. “We were pretty confident that things were going to ripen, but there are always some sleepless nights in the fall. Had we not seen some 30-degree Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit) days in early September, we would have gone back and done more thinning. “Historically, we’ve got to crop low in the Okanagan Valley, and this year was a bit more of a test for people in terms of their crop load. The people who did their fruit thinning kept their tonnage,” he added. “We didn’t do anything differently.” For example, Merlot came in at

24 to 25 brix, and it was the first variety Kettle Valley harvested on the Naramata Bench in late September. Ironically, Merlot also was the last grape it had picked — which Kettle Valley received in midNovember from the Oliver area near the U.S. border. “We got some nice acidity and bright fruit flavors across all the varieties,” Ferguson said. “The only thing that struggled was the Cabernet Sauvignon.” Ferguson’s first commercial harvest at the family operated winery was 1992. He compared the 2008 harvest with that of 1999. “It was very similar, but this year we had a better fall and a better finish,” he said. “The wines are going to be easier to work with because of the acidity, especially some of the aromatic whites such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer. They will maintain their flavors. There will be some very stunning wines from 2008.” And the historic frost event that hammered parts of Oregon did not wreak havoc in Okanagan Valley vineyards, which largely are protect-

Mourvèdre grapes are netted to keep birds away.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 O O 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44-49 harvest

12/8/08

11:32 PM

Page 49

harvest ed by their proximity to lakes. “We always count our blessings when it comes to frost,” Ferguson said. IDAHO

BY NOV. 4, GREG KOENIG, WHO ALSO makes wine for Bitner Vineyards and Williamson Vineyards, had finished picking all but his ice wine grapes. He began just after Labor Day with Pinot Gris and Roussanne. “This was only the second time that I’ve ever picked into November,” he said. “The first time was 1999, but that fruit never got ripe. This year, we had beautiful weather. Even the Sangiovese finally had enough sugar.” The timing of some varieties didn’t line up as usual, but nearly everything caught up. “I picked some Syrah before Chardonnay, which was about the only strange thing that happened. The Syrah got ripe early, and it was beautiful. The Mourvedre was the one funny wine. It got to 26 brix with high acidity and still had green flavors. Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

always need a long season to get the inky black color and berry aromas and flavors. The seeds don’t get crunchy until late in the season and the grapes aren’t high in alcohol. I just wish we had more of them.” Such a cool spring reinforces the need to reduce crop level of red varieties early on to hedge against green results. “We went to 1.2 tons per acre. Usually, it’s 2 1/2 tons to the acre, so I barely had any Merlot,” Koenig said. “In hindsight, I could have left more tonnage and still gotten the ripeness, but in August I couldn’t gamble on September and October. “It’s going to be an expensive Merlot,” he said with a chuckle. Crop thinning is a relatively new concept to Idaho, he said. “The key to red winemaking in Idaho is that you have to be sure you have low crop levels,” Koenig said. “Until the late 1990s, a lot of the growers were growing all the grapes the same. So you had Riesling at 5 to 6 tons per acre the same as Cabernet, Merlot and all the red varieties. They began having success after they

F E AT U R E

cropped Syrah to 3 tons per acre.” The extra hang time is critical for most Bordeaux varieties, he said. “Here in Idaho, especially with wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the grapes need longer hang time and need a little higher sugars, otherwise you get green and stick flavors,” he said. “I don’t think we could make a 13.5 percent alcohol Cab in Idaho worth drinking.” These wines should continue Idaho’s recent surge in the marketplace “We’re still shaking our heads at how lucky we got with the weather,” Koenig said. “What looked to be a ‘down vintage’ really turned out great, but the proof is not there until it gets in the bottle.” So the 2008 harvest may well go down as a Fall Classic and will no doubt produce some gold medals in future competitions. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/10/08

5:23 PM

Page 50

WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

9:30 AM

Page 51

WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T â&#x20AC;˘ W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

9:34 AM

Page 52

WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY Get acquainted with Walldeaux Smithie at Forgeron Cellars Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM

33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463

Tamarack Cellars 700 C St. Walla Walla, WA 840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both. Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

509-527-8400 www.fivestarcellars.com

Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Releases: '06 Bello Rosso ‘06 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘06 Washington State Cuvée ‘06 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

(at the airport)

Hours: Mar.-Nov. Thurs. & Fri. 12-4 Sat. & Sun. 10-4

509-526-3533 Current Releases: • 2007 Chardonnay • 2007 Firehouse Red • 2006 Merlot • 2006 Cabernet Franc • 2005 Sauvignon • 2005 Syrah www.tamarackcellars.com

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Est. 1988 Friday 1 - 5 pm • Saturday 12 - 5 pm Sunday 1 - 4 pm

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

509-526-0676

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

1:03 PM

Page 53

WINE COUNTRY: YAMHILL COUNTY

“Consistently delicious wine!” Wine Press NW 26830 NW Olson Rd, Gaston, OR 97119 Winter tasting room hours: Dec.: Fri.-Sun. 12 - 5 • Closed January

503-662-4545 • www.kramerwine.com

16425 SE Webfoot Rd., Dayton, Oregon (503) 868-7359 Open for tasting 12-5 weekends & by appt. weekdays

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:50 PM

Page 54

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:52 PM

Page 55

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

BEST OF THE BEST IN THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Platinum Judging S T O RY B Y A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

his year marked our ninth annual Platinum Judging, in which we attempt to identify some of the best of the best in the Great Northwest. By far, this was our largest judging, as we received 329 entries in this by-invitation-only competition. This surpassed last year’s record number of 259. All wines in the Platinum earned their way in by winning a gold medal or equivalent in any of about 30 regional, national and international competitions we track. With the most entries also came the most Platinums we’ve ever awarded: 54. Was that too many? Because we list the wines in order of finish, then I would conclude it is not. Our judges did not award Platinums lightly; rather, they argued and cajoled over wines to ensure the medals they gave were well deserved. A few trends I noticed from this year’s competition: ı Riesling

was our largest single category with 38 wines. This was partly because one of our competitions focused on Riesling and partly because Riesling is a hot variety in the Northwest.

ı Syrah

performed particularly well, winning eight Platinums.

ı Vin

du Lac, a winery on Washington’s Lake Chelan, won a Platinum for its Cabernet Franc for the fourth consecutive year, a stunning achievement.

ı Our

list of wines includes a lot from British Columbia. We received a larger-than-usual

number of entries from B.C., and they tended to perform extremely well. Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery in Oliver, B.C., won four Platinums. Wild Goose Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, B.C., and La Frenz in Naramata, B.C., won three each.

W I N E R AT I N G S All wines earned gold medals or the equivalent to get into our judging. Thus, the lowest medal they could earn was a gold. Here's how wines are rated in our competition: Best of the Best

These are the top-rated wines in the judging. They should be considered extremely collectible and highly coveted. This year, two wines tied with the top score, and both were Double Platinums.

ı Ste.

Michelle Wine Estates won four Platinums from its various wineries: Northstar, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Spring Valley Vineyards and Snoqualmie Vineyards. Equally notable, Domaine Ste. Michelle’s Blanc de Noir did not win a Platinum for the first time in years (in fact, it wasn’t in the competition this year).

Double Platinum

The judges unanimously decided these were Platinums. Again, these should be considered highly coveted. Platinum

Great wines, among the best in the Great Northwest.

ı Eight

wines won Double Platinums, meaning our judges unanimously agreed on the awards.

Double Gold

Superb wines that rise above. They should be highly sought after. Gold

Our judges confirmed the gold medals they earned elsewhere. They should not be overlooked.

ı Wineries

winning two Platinums each were Maryhill, Tsillan and Willamette Valley Vineyards (including its Griffin Creek label).

Best Buy Any that is $15 and under.

Our judges this year were: Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist and member of our tasting panel; Bob Woehler, the dean of Northwest wine writers and our tasting editor; Parks Redwine, a wine broker from Atlanta, Ga., who owns the Northwest Wine Summit, the largest judging of Northwest wines; Ken Robertson, a Wine Press Northwest columnist; and Coke Roth, an international wine judge and member of our tasting panel. The judging was conducted Nov. 1-2 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted as CDN which is Canadian dollars. Competitions

We track more than 30 competitions each year, sifting through the results for winners from the Pacific Northwest. We include the three peer-group judgings we do each year at Wine Press Northwest. This year's judgings included: Pinot Noir, Riesling and Italian red varieties. The names of the competitions and the award earned are listed at the end of each review.

BEST OF THE BEST

grapes whose ancestral home is in northwestern Italy. It opens with aromas of strawberries in cream and huckleberries, followed by flavors of huckleberries, boysenberries and other sweet dark fruit. A luscious midpalate leads to silky yet firm tannins and a memorable farewell. This is a perfect wine to pair with venison or other game meats. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (330 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Cascade Cliffs Vineyard & Winery $30 2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Bob Lorkowski has been impressing wine lovers for the decade he has owned this small winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge, crafting wines from well out of the mainstream. This stunning red uses

Terra Blanca Winery $20 2003 Estate Vineyard Syrah, Red Mountain Owner/winemaker Keith Pilgrim began work on this Red Mountain winery in the early ’90s, opening it later in the decade, then building one of the Northwest’s most beautiful buildings in the past two

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:53 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 56

platinum

years. His attention to detail from vineyard to cellar paid off handsomely with this red from estate grapes. It opens with aromas of toast, tar, black fruit and a hint of Dr Pepper, followed by flavors of black licorice, blackberries, spices, green olives and even a hint of orange. It’s a fruit-driven wine that is showing amazing maturity. WineFest (double gold). (3,267 cases, 13.5% alc.)

DOUBLE PLATINUM Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 CDN 2007 Classic Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley When the Gehringer family decided to launch a winery in British Columbia’s southern Okanagan Valley, brothers Walter and Gordon attended two of Germany’s top winemaking universities to ensure a well-rounded education. That strategy has paid off since, as this Oliver winery has been consistently producing some of the Northwest’s finest wines — especially those with German roots. This stunning Riesling opens with huge aromas of wonderful fresh fruit and sweet spices, followed by flavors of crisp green and Pink Lady apples and white peaches. This will pair with shellfish, halibut, curries and Vietnamese dishes. All-Canadian Wine Championships (double gold). (2,270 cases, 13% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley The Kruger

brothers of Okanagan Falls, B.C., are making the finest white wines in the Pacific Northwest. Many of them play to the family’s German roots, including Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. This wine is a classic, thanks to its perfect combination of fruit, minerals and acidity. It is loaded up front with aromas of mown hay, wet river rock and sweet herbs, followed by a steely entry that gives way to flavors of Asian pears and sweet lemons. Absolutely perfect acidity boosts this fruit-laden wine and will help it pair with seared scallops, ham, turkey or halibut. AllCanadian Wine Championships (gold). (1,500 cases, 13.2% alc.) Maryhill Winery $20 2005 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Craig and Vicki Leuthold have built their Goldendale, Wash., winery from a mere idea a decade ago into one of the Pacific Northwest’s finest producers today. Prior to this year, Maryhill had earned four Platinums in our annual best-of-the-best competition, and this year it added two more to its trophy case. This was for a Cabernet Franc that was nothing short of incredible. It opens with aromas of ripe raspberries, hot chocolate and black pepper, followed by flavors of blackberries, black currants and hints of eucalyptus, tobacco and tar. It’s beautifully balanced with mild tannins and perfect acidity. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (900 cases, 14% alc.) La Frenz Estate Winery $20 CDN NV Liqueur Muscat, Okanagan Valley Jeff Martin honed his craft in his native Australia before relocating to British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. His stint at Quails’ Gate Estate Winery helped raise the profile of that Kelowna producer before he launched

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

his own operation on the Naramata Bench. Since then, he has risen to become of the region’s top winemakers. This fortified white wine shows Martin’s diversity of styles. It opens with intriguing aromas of oranges, tangerines and almonds, followed by flavors of caramelized sugar and oranges. Said one judge: “I can’t think of a better thing to do with Muscat than what they did with this.” We thought it would pair well with baklava. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (200 cases, 18.5% alc.) CedarCreek Estate Winery $18 CDN 2007 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley American expat Tom Di Bello has been producing wines of elegance and power since arriving at this Kelowna, B.C., winery more than a half-decade ago. Ehrenfelser, a German cross of Riesling and Silvaner, is a delicious if rare variety. This particular version reveals aromas of sandalwood, antique roses, McIntosh apples and white pepper, followed by flavors of bright, clean, delicious lemons and apples laced with cardamom. The racy acidity screams for spicy dishes. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (1,164 cases, 13.4% alc.) Thurston Wolfe $22 2006 Petite Sirah, Washington This robust red grape’s origins are in France’s Rhône Valley, but it’s a wine that is decidedly Californian in its recent history, where the bulk of this variety is grown and produced. However, a few Northwest wineries are beginning to craft Petite Sirah. Owner/winemaker Wade Wolfe’s is emerging as one of the finest from our region, and this reveals aromas of black plums and black peppers, followed by bold, dark, leathery flavors of black fruit, licorice and hints of oak. The

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:54 PM

Page 57

platinum

normally massive tannins are in check in this wine, providing beautiful balance. This wine is ready to drink now or could hang around in the cellar for another half-decade. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (425 cases, 15% alc.)

PLATINUM Tre Nova $40 2006 Secopassa, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Gino Cuneo’s dedication to Italian-style wines knows no bounds, as evidenced by his Secopassa, a wine made in the style of the Veneto’s Amarones. He harvests Sangiovese and Nebbiolo grown in Washington’s Columbia Valley, then dries the grapes on racks for several weeks until they are raisins and crushes them. The result is a higher-alcohol wine with lush, velvety flavors. This version reveals aromas of mint and black olives, followed by flavors of plush berries, black cherries, black pepper and tea. It is a complex wine unlike any other made in the Pacific Northwest. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (143 cases, 16.8% alc.) Barking Frog Winery $32 2006 Crawford Vineyard Syrah, Washington Ron Helbig’s Carlton, Ore., winery hit our radar nearly a year ago when one of his Pinot Noirs finished atop our extensive tasting of Oregon’s signature grape. Since then, he’s proved that was no fluke. This Syrah from Yakima Valley fruit is enormously enjoyable with aromas of black and red fruit and even a bit of buttered toast. On the palate are flavors of

nicely ripe blackberries, black olives, black licorice, dark chocolate and bacon. Modest tannins reveal a luscious sweetness in the finish. Northwest Wine Summit (Gold). (256 cases, 15.7% alc.) Cardwell Hill Cellars $23 2006 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley During the first eight years of this competition, our judges had selected only three Pinot Noirs for Platinums. Part of this is because Oregon wineries tend to enter fewer wines in competitions. This year, two Pinot Noirs earned our top rating, including this extremely affordable offering from a small Philomath, Ore., producer who is making plenty of noise at a national level. This opens with aromas of gorgeous dark cherries, cranberries, cedar, cinnamon and leather, followed by plush flavors of mocha, sweet spices, ginger and chocolate-dipped cherries. A fabulous wine at an amazing price. Oregon State Fair (gold). (1,139 cases, 13.2% alc.) Kiona Vineyards Winery $25 2003 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Red Mountain pioneer producer earned our first Platinum back in 2000, and it continues to craft wines of plushness and power. This older release from second-generation winemaker Scott Williams shows elegant maturity on the nose and palate. It opens with aromas of spices, mints and Bing cherries, followed by bold flavors of blackberries, black cherries and plums. It shows off luscious breadth and depth and is a big wine that could continue to age. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (1,220 cases, 13.5% alc.) Northstar $29 2004 Stella Maris, Columbia Valley This winery

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

south of Walla Walla, Wash., has been best known for its high-end Merlots since its inception in the mid’90s, yet this blend dominated by Merlot (88%) caught our attention for its quality and price. As this was the year of a devastating freeze in the Walla Walla Valley, the vast majority of the grapes for this wine came from the broader Columbia Valley. It opens with aromas of sweet herbs, mellow oak and dark fruit, followed by complex flavors of caramel, coffee, blueberries, chocolate and cherries. Tamed tannins allow the fruit to shine from beginning to finish. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (4,991 cases, 14.5% alc.) Trust Cellars $30 2005 Syrah, Columbia Valley This small producer from the Walla Walla Valley is on the fast track to greatness, based on the quality of this, its first release. The grapes came from Goose Ridge near Red Mountain, VaPiano in Walla Walla and Portteus in the Yakima Valley, and it is magnificent. It opens with dark-toned aromas of oak, chocolate and black fruit, followed by smooth, elegant flavors of black plums, pomegranates and a hint of forest floor. It’s an unctuous, charming wine with a pleasingly austere use of oak. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (200 cases, 14.2% alc.) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 CDN 2007 Classic Auxerrois, Okanagan Valley This rare grape (at least in the New World) is thought to be a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, interestingly, the same cross as Chardonnay. It is most often seen in Alsace, Germany and Luxembourg, though it has gained a mild foothold

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:56 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 58

platinum

in British Columbia. With examples like this one, there should be little wonder. On the nose, it shows aromas of cloves, limes, sandalwood, oranges and melons, then the palate explodes with flavors of citrus, apples and honeydew. This is an attention-getting wine with beautiful acidity and great length. It is a perfect seafood wine. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold.) (1,948 cases, 13% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley Gewürztraminer is not only difficult to say, but it also is nearly impossible to make as well as this example from a top Okanagan Valley producer. Gewürztraminer is notoriously low in acidity, making it difficult to pair with food, yet second-generation winemaker Hagen Kruger has a magical touch. This is a classic wine with aromas of cloves, lychee, juniper berries and pink grapefruit, followed by luscious flavors of lychee, mangoes, rose petals and tangerines. Ample acidity backs up everything perfectly. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (1,200 cases, 13.3% alc.) La Frenz Estate Winery $20 CDN 2007 Viognier, Okanagan Valley This white grape would seem to fare best in northern climes. Its ancestral home is the northern end of the Rhône Valley in France, and efforts to grow this grape in California have been suspect at best. Yet in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, Viognier has the opportunity to thrive — and maintain its elusive acidity. This superb example opens with aromas of oranges, vanilla and a hint of smokiness, followed by off-dry

flavors of oranges, papayas, mangoes and pineapples. It’s richly structured and full flavored with plenty of acidity and a strong finish. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (700 cases, 12.5% alc.) Robert Karl Winery $35 2005 Gunselman Bench Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Few Washington wineries have risen on our radar as quickly and consistently as this Spokane producer. Owners Joseph and Rebecca Gunselman used grapes from their eponymous vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft a Cabernet Sauvignon that reveals complexity and finesse. It opens with aromas of red currants, violets, caramelized sugar and roasted plums, followed by flavors of dark plums, blackberries and black cherries. This is still a young wine and will likely continue to improve with up to a half-decade of cellar time. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (100 cases, 13.9% alc.) E.B. Foote Winery $24 2006 Zinfandel, Wahluke Slope The quality of this wine is a tribute to Rich Higginbotham, the coowner/winemaker of this Burien, Wash., winery who passed away in September. His wife, Sherrill Miller, has handled most winemaking duties for the past few years, and this Zin is a dandy. It opens with aromas of dark raspberries and sweet oak, followed by massive flavors of red and black fruit and something that reminded us of chocolate cake icing. It’s a blockbuster wine. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (257 cases, 18.2% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Reininger Winery $45 2005 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Malbec, often considered a “lesser” Bordeaux variety, is gaining a strong foothold in Washington, where top winemakers are embracing the grape and highlighting it by bottling it on its own. Owner/winemaker Chuck Reininger didn’t have to travel far to find these grapes, which come from one of Walla Walla’s most storied vineyards. The result is a luscious wine with aromas of cherries and raspberries that lead to a smooth entry and loads of black fruit on the palate. It’s perfectly balanced with supple tannins and a memorable finish. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (184 cases, 14.4% alc.) Maryhill Winery $40 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley Owners Craig and Vicki Leuthold rely heavily on Gunkel Vineyard, which is next to this picturesque Goldendale, Wash., winery. In fact, half the grapes for this reserve-level Malbec came from Gunkel, while the other half came from highly regarded Lonesome Springs Ranch Vineyard near Red Mountain. The wine opens with exotic aromas of sandalwood, mushrooms, spices and cherries, followed by flavors of raspberries, plums and spiced apples. Silky tannins give way to a memorable finish. One judge felt this was as good as any Malbec he had tasted from Argentina. Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (299 cases, 13.6% alc.)

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:57 PM

Page 59

platinum

Willamette Valley Vineyards $40 2006 Tualatin Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley One of Oregon’s favorite tourist draws also has been consistently making some of the state’s finest wines. In recent years, the acclaim has focused on great white wines, and now they’re coming for reds. This is an elegant wine that epitomizes Oregon Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of Cerise cherries and sweet spices, giving way to bright, lively flavors of cherries, white pepper and red plums. A rich midpalate leads to a balanced finish. Riverside International Wine Competition (double gold). (402 cases, 14.5% alc.) Church & State Wines $23 CDN 2006 Church Mouse Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Longtime Napa Valley winemaker Bill Dyer tried his hand with Northwest winemaking when he helped launch highly touted Burrowing Owl near Oliver, B.C. After that, he moved across the province to beautiful Vancouver Island. His wines have quickly put Church & State on the radar of serious wine lovers. This was our top-rated Chardonnay, and it is a dandy. It opens with aromas of fresh apples balanced with mild toasted oak, followed by clean, round flavors of lemons and tropical fruits. A creamy midpalate is gorgeously balanced with fruit and acidity for a rich finish. Tasters Guild International (double gold), All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (426 cases, 14.4% alc.) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $60 CDN 2006 Grand Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Derek Kontkanen handles wine-

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

making duties for white and ice wines for this huge — and hugely successful — Vincor property just north of Oliver, B.C. Jackson-Triggs makes an amazing array of whites and reds, but it’s perhaps best known for its ice wines. This is about as good as they come, thanks to aromas of exotic spices, honey, peaches and apricots, followed by flavors of honey, oranges and apples, along with crème caramel. Amid all the sweetness is plenty of acidity to keep it from being cloying. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (325 cases, 9% alc.)

heights since arriving in 2006 from Oregon. This beautifully crafted and nicely priced Bordeaux-style blend uses grapes from four vineyards in four Eastern Washington appellations. It opens with aromas of dark chocolate, ripe red berries and ample oak, followed by flavors of bittersweet chocolate, black cherries, blackberries and plums. Long, smooth tannins give this youthful approachability for pairing with roasted or grilled meats. Indy International Wine Competition (double gold). (619 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Summerhill Pyramid Winery $80 CDN 2006 Estate Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley This winery near Kelowna, B.C., is purported to be the most-visited in the province. Undoubtedly, a shining pyramid where the wine is aged is one of the draws, but so are the stunning wines, especially ice wines and sparklers. This was crafted from organically grown grapes, something owner Stephen Cipes has insisted on long before it was fashionable. This opens with aromas of caramel sauce, lychee, and cloves, followed by flavors of crushed almonds, baked apples and plenty of balanced sweetness. It’s a gorgeous dessert wine. AllCanadian Wine Championships (gold). (621 cases, 11% alc.)

Roxy Ann Winery $26 2005 Claret, Rogue Valley Winemaker Gus Janeway crafts the elegant and noteworthy wines in this Medford, Ore., producer. This is a blend of Merlot (39%), Cabernet Sauvignon (38%) and Cabernet Franc (23%), all from estate vineyards. It opens with aromas of Rainier cherries, raspberries, black pepper and a touch of vanilla, followed by rich flavors of black cherries, red plums, blueberries, cola and dark chocolate. The fruit-to-tannin ratio is nothing short of harmonious in this polished and beautiful wine. National Women’s Wine Competition (gold). (1,656 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy! San Juan Vineyards $14 2005 Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley This is the second year in a row for San Juan Vineyards to earn a Platinum from us. Winemaker Chris Primus has taken this Friday Harbor, Wash., winery to new

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

Griffin Creek $35 2004 Syrah, Rogue Valley This label owned by Willamette Valley Vineyards was one of the early adopters of Rogue Valley Syrah, several vintages before it became fashionable for northern Oregon Pinot Noir producers. The fruit for this succulent Syrah comes from Lakeside Vineyard, and it’s a beauty. It opens with aromas of violets, black

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

12:59 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 60

platinum

licorice, cola, fresh wild strawberries and a touch of bacon, followed by flavors of black olives, chocolate, cloves and dark, ripe berries. It’s a balanced and well-structured wine throughout. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (318 cases, 15 alc.) Tsillan Cellars $22 2006 Reserve Gewürztraminer, Columbia Valley Few wineries produce any Gewürztraminer, much less two. This is the reserve-level version for the destination winery on Lake Chelan, and it’s a classic stunner. It opens with aromas of cloves, orange blossoms, and lychee, followed by flavors of sweet Texas pink grapefruit, apricots, peaches and lychee. It has plenty of acidity and all the components expected in a world-class Gewürztraminer. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (13.5% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 Mystic River Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley Pinot Blanc is one of the lesser-known mutations of Pinot Noir (along with Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier). It has a bit of a toehold in Oregon as well as British Columbia. This version comes from Wild Goose’s estate vineyard near Oliver, B.C., in the southern Okanagan Valley. It is a delightful wine that shows off surprising complexity, including aromas of lemons, melons, pears and spices, followed by mouth-watering flavors of oranges, sweet limes and honeydew melons. The underlying acidity provides tremendous length, making this a perfect wine for shellfish or chicken with a mango salsa. AllCanadian Wine Championships (gold). (200 cases, 12.8% alc.)

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $17 CDN 2007 Dry Rock Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley This southern Okanagan Valley winery launched its Dry Rock line of wines a few years ago, with the fruit coming from its estate vineyard. The wines tend to focus on non-Germanic varieties, and this Sauvignon Blanc is a dandy. It opens with aromas of lemongrass, sweet herbs and fresh-cut apples, followed by classic notes of limes and rich lemon curd. It balances crisp acidity with a creamy finish and should be perfect with a variety of seafood dishes or pasta with a white sauce. AllCanadian Wine Championships (gold). (640 cases, 13% alc.) Benson Vineyards Estate Winery $25 2006 Sangiovese, Chelan County As the approval of a Lake Chelan appellation draws closer, growers and winemakers are making their case for this region of north-central Washington. Winemaker Scott Benson used grapes from an estate vineyard on the north shore of Lake Chelan to produce this stupendous red wine. It opens with aromas of raspberries, bright cherries and a hint of toasted marshmallows, followed by smooth, clean flavors of dark berries, cherry cola and toffee. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (509 cases, 13.4% alc.) Wind River Cellars $30 2006 Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills More than a decade ago, Kris and Joel Goodwillie took over the former Charles Hooper Family Winery in one of the prettiest spots in the Northwest, a vineyard and winery that provides a stunning view of Mount Hood to the south and Mount Adams looming in the north. Through the years, Wind River has

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

focused on producing a delicious array of wines, and this is one of the finest yet. This classy red opens with aromas of plums, sweet herbs, ripe summer blackberries and vanilla-tinged oak. It’s a rich, delicious wine on the palate with flavors of black olives, raspberries and blackberries. Perfectly balanced, this is a wonderfully complex wine. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (250 cases, 13% alc.) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $13 CDN 2007 Desert Sun, Okanagan Valley This blend of two wine grape varieties — Auxerrois and Riesling — makes for a delicious wine with surprising levels of complexity. And it’s also a fruit-laden white that will pair well with everything from pasta to chicken to seafood. It opens with aromas of lychee, lemons, pineapples and cake spices, followed by flavors of pears, apricots, limes and honeysuckle. The crisp acidity props up the fruit through the lengthy finish. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (1,009 cases, 13% alc.) Tsillan Cellars $22 2006 Estate Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Shane Collins has crafted a gorgeous dry Riesling using estate grapes by Lake Chelan. This explodes with fruit from the first whiff through the extended finish. This opens with aromas of lemongrass, limes, peaches and quince, followed by flavors of white peaches, oranges and Meyer sweet lemons. Amazing acidity props up the fruit and helps this pair with everything from curried chicken to chorizo con huevos. Northwest Wine Summit (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold), L.A. International (gold), Long Beach (gold). (400 cases, 12.5% alc.)

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/11/08

2:03 PM

Page 61

platinum

Mission Hill Family Estate $22 CDN 2006 Reserve Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley John Simes has led the winemaking efforts of this popular destination winery for many years. He produces a wide array, from bold reds to sweet ice wines, and this is one of the finest we’ve tasted yet. This Chardonnay reveals aromas of Bartlett pears and hints of vanilla, followed by a rich mouth feel highlighted with flavors of Golden Delicious apples and pineapples. A creamy roundness from sur lie aging in American and French oak highlights the midpalate and extends through the beautiful finish. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (13.5% alc.) Arcane Cellars $20 2007 Reserve Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills This winery near the Wheatland ferry north of Salem, Ore., jumped onto our radar last summer for its stunning Riesling. Now, it’s showing its mettle with Oregon’s signature white grape. This reserve-level Pinot Gris uses grapes from Vista Hills Vineyard in the Dundee Hills, and it’s a beauty. It opens with pretty aromas of apples, pears and green tea, followed by harmonious flavors of fresh-cut grass, honeysuckle and white peaches. Arcane is definitely a wine to keep a sharp eye on. San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). (190 cases, 13.8% alc.) Kestrel Vintners $60 2004 Raptor Red, Yakima Valley In recent years, Kestrel has gained fame with its modestly priced “Lady in Red” blend. But on the other end of the scale is this seriously great Bordeaux-style red. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) and Malbec (39%) using estate fruit near the Prosser, Wash., winery. It opens with aromas of plums, milk chocolate

and even an intriguing hint of coconut, followed by bold, hedonistic flavors of red currants, Bing cherries, pomegranates and boysenberries. Bright acidity boosts the fruit profile, and a tight minerality keeps everything clean and bracing. New World International Wine Competition (best of class). (152 cases, 13.9% alc.) La Frenz Estate Winery $20 CDN NV Tawny, Okanagan Valley Just a handful of Northwest wineries produce fortified wines — known in common terms as “Port.” Jeff Martin, owner/winemaker for La Frenz, has blended fortified wines from multiple vintages aged for a minimum of three years before bottling. The result is a luscious dessert wine with aromas of walnuts, plums and aged balsamic vinegar, followed by well-balanced flavors of fresh-brewed coffee and toffee. A great wine to sip on a rainy winter day. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (200 cases, 18.5% alc.) Walter Dacon Wines $38 2006 C’est Syrah Beaux, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Lloyd Anderson has focused primarily on Syrah since launching this Shelton, Wash., winery earlier this decade. Plenty of accolades have come his way since, and now he has earned his first Platinum. This is the middle tier of three Syrahs he produces, and it is gorgeous. It opens with aromas of Dr Pepper, blackberry jam, nutmeg and Christmas trees, followed by flavors of sandalwood, chocolatecovered raisins and orange sticks with chocolate. It’s an intriguing wine with deep complexity. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (300 cases, 14.6% alc.)

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Four Lakes Chelan $30 2005 Syrah, Columbia Valley This young winery near Lake Chelan is off to a fast start, earning a Platinum medal in just its second vintage. The winery’s name comes from lakes Chelan, Dry, Rose and Wapato, and the fruit comes from its estate vineyard near Manson. This Syrah is luscious, thanks to aromas of plum jam, sweet spices, bacon and even a nice whiff of dill, followed by flavors of blackberries, black cherries, dark plums and chocolate. It’s a big, yummy wine with a long finish. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (best of class). (200 cases, 13% alc.) Amavi Cellars $24 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This second label for famed Pepper Bridge Winery in Walla Walla is first rate. Winemaker Jean-François Pellet lent his considerable talent in producing this delicious and affordable red. It’s primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (76%) with some Merlot (23%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) blended in for balance. It opens with aromas of black currants, bacon and forest floor, followed by flavors of blackberries, black plums and black cherries. Beautifully structured throughout, this provides a luscious midpalate and a dark finish. WineFest (gold). (3,863 cases, 13.9% alc.) Whitman Cellars $36 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley California transplant Steve Lessard made his mark at Hedges Cellars on Red Mountain before moving to this Walla Walla winery a few years ago. This superb Cabernet Sauvignon pulls grapes from such top vineyards as Cold Creek and Red Mountain. On the nose, it reveals raspberries, blackberries and a whis-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/10/08

4:22 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 62

platinum

per of vanilla, followed by flavors of baker’s chocolate, blackberries, dark plums and huckleberries. The well-managed tannins provide harmony with all the fruit through the lengthy finish. This is superb now and should age well for at least another halfdecade. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (best of class). (488 cases, 14.2% alc.) Barnard Griffin $17 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley With more than 30 years of experience making Washington wine, Rob Griffin is pretty dialed into what vineyards he likes and how to make wines consistently great from year to year. How he does it at such friendly prices is the greater mystery, one we’re happy to contemplate over a glass of this Cab. It opens with aromas of cedar, sandalwood, black cherries and sweet spices, followed by bold, expressive flavors of black cherries, blackberries, black currants and black plums. Chocolaty tannins and righton oak provide structure and background for this complete, even hedonistic wine. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (7,000 cases, 14.3% alc.) Vin du Lac Winery $35 2006 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Three years ago, the 2003 version of this wine was deemed the “best of the best” in this competition. Now, for the fourth consecutive year, Larry Lehmbecker astonishes us with yet another Platinum for what has become his signature wine. This opens with complex aromas of black cherries, black currants, rich earth and pine needles, followed by bold, luscious flavors of blackberries, black cherries and saddle leather. This is a stunner. L.A.

International Wine Competition (gold), Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (311 cases, 14.9% alc.) Best Buy! Snoqualmie Vineyards $10 2007 Winemaker’s Select Riesling, Columbia Valley Joy Andersen oversees this Prosser, Wash., winery. One could think she might get lost in the world of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, yet she regularly crafts some of the company’s finest wines — a testament to her nearly two decades at the helm of Snoqualmie. This is a luscious Riesling that, despite having a fair amount of sweetness, is beautifully balanced. It opens with aromas of apples, pears and honey, followed by well-balanced flavors of peaches, orange cream and sweet lemon tea. This is a perfect wine for pairing with extra-spicy Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese or South Indian dishes. Finger Lakes International Wine Competition (gold). (9,000 cases, 10.5% alc.) Joie Wines $19 CDN 2007 Rethink Pink Rosé, Okanagan Valley Owners/winemakers Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn are former restaurateurs who escaped the city life for British Columbia’s Naramata Bench, where they now make some of the finest and food-friendliest wines. This rosé is a stunner. It opens with aromas of lavender, rosewater, dried apricots and white strawberries, followed by amazing flavors of cherries, rosewater, white grapefruit and wild strawberries. The acidity is perfectly balanced. Pair with a Niçoise salad, a plate of salami or honeydew wrapped in prosciutto. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (1,460 cases, 12.5% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Spring Valley Vineyard $50 2005 Frederick, Walla Walla Valley Devin Derby was a fast-rising star in the Walla Walla Valley before tragedy struck in late 2004 when he died in a car accident. The winery has since been purchased by Ste. Michelle, though his family still is heavily involved in the farming of this vineyard. Frederick is a Cab-based wine named after a Corkrum family ancestor. It opens with intriguing aromas of mint, black plums and chocolate, followed by lush flavors of blackberries, black currants and dark chocolate. Its ample tannins provide plenty of structure, leading us to pair this with prime rib or other hearty fare. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (1,300 cases, 15.5% alc.) O•S Winery $37 2005 BSH, Columbia Valley This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot lives up to its name of being a “brick ... house.” This Seattle-area winery has a reputation for living large, and this wine is no exception. It opens with aromas of red currants, pomegranates, raspberries and allspice, followed by an explosion of flavors including huckleberries, cranberries and ripe dark cherries. A creamy midpalate leads to bold-yet-sweet tannins and a marvelous finish. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (626 cases, 14.8% alc.) Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards $20 2005 Syrah, Columbia Valley Jeff Gordon planted his vineyard overlooking the Snake River nearly three decades ago, and this Syrah went in about 10 years ago. In recent vintages, this has gained the winery north of Pasco, Wash., its greatest

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:08 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 64

platinum International Wine Competition (gold). (474 cases, 13.1% alc.) Olsen Estates $37 2006 Rouges des Coteaux, Columbia Valley The Olsen family has been farming in Washington’s Yakima Valley for a century, and it opened its new winery in Prosser more than a year ago. This is a blend of Cinsault (33%), Mourvedre (27%), Grenache (27%) and Syrah (13%). It opens with aromas of jammy blackberries, mint and hints of spice, followed by flavors of black cherries, black olives, black tea and blackberries. The tannins are perfectly balanced. Pair with venison, lamb or hearty pasta dishes. San Francisco International Wine Competition (double gold). (170 cases, 14.2% alc.) Church & State Wines $35 CDN 2006 Coyote Bowl Merlot, Okanagan Valley Grapes for this luscious Merlot come from the venerable Black Sage Bench, a shelf just north of the U.S. border and an area that should be the province’s next appellation. This juicy red opens with aromas of toasty oak, boysenberries, chocolate and even roasted corn, followed by big flavors of plums, raspberries, thyme and sweet chocolate. New World International Wine Competition (gold). (286 cases, 14.8% alc.) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $26 CDN 2005 Grand Reserve Cab-Shiraz, Okanagan Valley Jackson-Triggs has had great success with this New World red blend, so this wine’s quality is of little surprise. This opens with aromas of Saskatoon berries, plums and leather, followed by flavors of cranberries, coffee, cherries and freshly brewed coffee. This is a well-structured and balanced wine. AllCanadian Wine Championships (double gold). (800 cases, 14.1% alc.)

is made into sparkling wine. Rarely is this ever produced as a still wine by itself. In fact, we can recall fewer than a half-dozen ever in the Pacific Northwest. This wine from the Naramata Bench is a beauty, however. It opens with aromas of floral notes, and strawberries, followed by flavors of red currants, cranberries and light cherries. Said our most-traveled judge: “This is the best Pinot Meunier I’ve ever tasted.” All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (460 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $15 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Last year, the 2006 version of this wine was one of our “best of the best,” and this vintage is no slouch. It opens with gorgeous aromas of cranberries and wild strawberries, along with a hint of Christmas spices. On the palate are refreshing flavors of cherries, red currants and raspberries. This is everything one could hope for in a rosé. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (1,511 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Gray Monk Estate Winery $17 CDN 2007 Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley George Heiss Jr., second-generation winemaker for this highly respected Okanagan Valley winery, learned his trade in Germany and excels with white wines. This Pinot Blanc is one of the finest we’ve tasted, thanks to aromas of limes, pears, apples and even hints of Concord grapes, followed by flavors of lemons, tart peaches and fresh-cut apples. This is loaded with acidity, and the refreshing crispness should help this pair perfectly with oysters. AllCanadian Wine Championships (gold). (1600 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Amity Vineyards $40 2006 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Owner Myron Redford came to the EolaAmity Hills more than two decades ago with the express goal of crafting wines of elegance and grace. This delicious Pinot Noir comes from Amity’s estate vineyard and opens with aromas of sweet spices, dark cherries, hints of leather and a whiff of coffee. On the palate are flavors of huckleberries and fresh chokecherries. It’s a complex wine with layers of flavors backed with moderate tannins. WineFest (gold). (99 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $49 CDN 2007 Signature Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley This is one of three ice wines made by one of British Columbia’s finest producers. It opens with aromas of tangerines, apricots, honeysuckle, cloves and a huge rush of fresh peaches, followed by flavors of fresh fruit drizzled in honey. It has plenty of sweetness but is not even close to cloying. Indy International Wine Competition (double gold). (827 cases, 11% alc.)

Abacela Winery $23 2007 Albariño, Umpqua Valley This white grape variety is best known in Spain’s Galacia region but is nearly unheard of in the New World. Earl and Hilda Jones planted it in Southern Oregon — and with great success. This opens with pretty aromas of grapefruit, limes, Comice pears and sandalwood, followed by steely flavors of limes and green apples. The acidity reminds us of the crispness of fresh mountain air, and we would love to pair it with crabcakes, seared scallops or grilled halibut. Los Angeles International Wine Competition and Pacific Rim

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

CedarCreek Estate Winery $45 CDN 2005 Platinum Reserve Meritage, Okanagan Valley This is a Merlot-dominated Bordeaux-style blend whose grapes came from no fewer than seven vineyards stretching from Peachland in the north to Osoyoos near the U.S. border. It opens with aromas of red cherries, white pepper and French oak spices, followed by bold flavors of blueberries, red currants, and chocolate. All the fruit keeps up with the ample tannins. You might tuck this in the cellar for a few years before popping the cork. San Francisco International Wine Competition, L.A. International Wine Competition (gold). (579 cases, 14.5% alc.) E.B. Foote Winery $18 2005 Perfect a Trois, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Sherrill Miller blended Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from three vineyards to craft this red wine. It opens with aromas of black cherries, black currants, vanilla and mocha, followed by focused flavors of pie cherries, blueberries and black cherries. It’s nicely complex with underlying bittersweet chocolate and depth of flavor. National Women’s Wine Competition (gold). (243 cases, 14.2% alc.) Gray Monk Estate Winery $17 CDN 2007 Late Harvest Kerner, Okanagan Valley Kerner is an unusual white grape whose parentage includes Trollinger — a red grape — crossed with Riesling. Though it has been generally available since only 1969, it’s already Germany’s eighth-mostplanted wine grape. This dessert version from Gray Monk is a dandy with aromas of light strawberries, pears, oranges and honey, followed by harmonious flavors of applesauce and light citrus. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (850 cases, 10.7% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $18 2005 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This wine’s grapes come from

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:13 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 64

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:09 PM

Page 65

platinum Washington’s Wahluke Slope, a region north of the Yakima Valley that is surrounded on three sides by the mighty Columbia River. It’s one of Washington’s warmest grape-growing regions. This wine, which is both affordable and produced in ample quantities, opens with aromas of vibrant red cherries, charming oak and hints of vanilla. On the palate are flavors of a warm berry pie and ripe plums. This is a delicious — dare we say hedonistic — wine with a big, luscious finish. Riverside International Wine Competition (gold). (34,000 cases, 14.2% alc.) Reininger Winery $45 2005 Seven Hills Vineyard Carménère, Walla Walla Valley This rare red Bordeaux variety is planted primarily in Chile, but it seems to have found a home in the Walla Walla Valley. When Chuck Reininger was making his first vintage of this back in 2003, he considered calling it Grand Vidure, which is another name for the grape. After other wineries bottled it as Carménère, he went along with its more mainstream name. This is a beautiful wine with aromas of black pepper, black plums and tar, followed by layered flavors of brambleberries, black pepper and black plums. Silky tannins and a viscous mouth feel give this all the structure necessary. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (146 cases, 14.3% alc.) Best Buy! Willamette Valley Vineyards $12 2007 Riesling, Willamette Valley With its cooler temperatures, Oregon’s Willamette Valley has the opportunity to craft some wonderful Rieslings. This example from one of the state’s largest producers proves that. It opens with aromas of peaches, pears, sweet spices and dusty gravel, followed by luscious flavors of fresh-from-the-tree apples and a burst of peaches. This is a bit sweet, but the bright acidity provides all the balance necessary. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (23,500 cases, 10% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $22 2007 Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley Thanks to its heritage of being produced by Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen, this wine has become what is arguably America’s most famous Riesling. This version opens with intriguing aromas of lychee, coconut, pineapples and cardamom, followed by stony flavors of minerals, along with apples and Valencia oranges. International Eastern Wine Competition (gold), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold), Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (24,250 cases, 12% alc.) Willamette Valley Vineyards $40 2006 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley When you’re Jim Bernau, you aren’t some CEO who lounges in leather chairs. Rather, you’re the kind of guy who jumps on a tractor or does anything else necessary. The estate vineyard for this larger Turner, Ore., producer was planted by Bernau in 1983 and has been the source of stylish Pinot Noirs since. This opens with aromas of French oak, lighter cherries and cedar, followed by rich flavors of cola, blueberries and cherries. A smooth midpalate leads to sweet tannins and a gentle finish. Riverside International Wine Competition (gold). (2534 cases, 14.5% alc.) Adelsheim Vineyard $31 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley For 26 vintages, the face on this elegant Pinot Noir’s distinctive label has been Diana Lett, wife of David Lett, the Oregon Pinot Noir founder who passed away this fall. David Adelsheim, who started his eponymous winery not too long after Lett’s Eyrie Vineyards, is the kind of person who honors people and history. This wine opens with aromas of raspberries and

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

MORE PLATINUMS G O T O W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M ıϧWe

have listed all the Platinums and Double Golds in this article. To see the complete list of winners, including those that earned a Gold, go to winepressnw.com. ıϧWe have put together a Platinum Cookbook again this year, in which we solicited recipes from wineries that pair with their award-winning wines. This free cookbook can be downloaded on our Web site. ıϧFind past Platinum winners in our searchable wine review database. TA S T E T H E P L AT I N U M S

Two organizations conduct Platinum Dinners, which feature many of the top wines. ıϧThe Platinum Dinner at the Columbia Tower Club in Seattle is Jan. 30. Cost for the five-course dinner is $94. Call 206-622-2010. ıϧThe Yakima Enological Society will hold its Platinum Dinner on April 11. Go to yakimawine.org or call 509-949-3697. ıϧAdditionally, Yoke’s Fresh Markets will feature Platinum winners in participating stores. bright cherries with just a hint of oak, followed by suave flavors of Bing cherries and black raspberries. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (15,521 cases, 13.8% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $22 2005 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills The ridge this vineyard is on purportedly was named by Lewis & Clark as they floated down the Columbia River in search of the Pacific Ocean. It also happens to be one of the finest grape-growing spots in Washington. This Merlot opens with aromas of lean blackberries and black cherries, reminding us of a more European style of wine. On the palate are bright flavors of cherries and minerals with a grapy midpalate but cleansing acidity on the finish. This should pair nicely with leaner cuts of beef or grilled portabellos. San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). (12,000 cases, 14.3% alc.) Soaring Eagle Estate Winery $55 CDN 2007 Gewürztraminer Icewine, Okanagan Valley Gewürztraminer is notoriously low in acidity, so producing a dessert wine with this German grape is an exercise in patience. That paid off with this Naramata Bench winery, which has crafted an ice wine with expressive aromas of cloves, poached pears, nutmeg and honey, followed by generous flavors of baked apples, apricots and a hint of lychee. Northwest Wine Summit, All Canadian Wine Championship (gold). (166 cases, 9% alc.) Yellow Hawk Cellar $24 2005 Solstice, Columbia Valley From a small producer in the Walla Walla Valley comes a fascinating red blend of Sangiovese (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Syrah (15%). The grapes come from the Wahluke Slope, Red Mountain and the Walla Walla Valley. It opens with aromas of cherries and mocha, followed by flavors of cranberries, raspberries, milk chocolate and oak. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (564 cases, 13.9% alc.) Best Buy! Maryhill Winery $15 2006 Winemaker’s Red, Columbia Valley This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Merlot (28%), Syrah (15%) and Cabernet Franc (10%) is perfectly

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

priced for a recession, and red wine lovers don’t have to skimp on quality. This opens with aromas of milk chocolate-covered huckleberries and Chelan cherries, followed by flavors of blueberries, black pepper and black cherries. Sturdy tannins give this plenty of structure, so it should pair well with grilled meats, stews, pizza and lasagna. Riverside International Wine Competition (double gold). (16,500 cases, 14.2% alc.) Del Rio Vineyards $35 2005 Claret, Rogue Valley This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec comes from what likely is Oregon’s most famous vineyard outside of Yamhill County. In fact, many Willamette Valley winemakers reach deep into Southern Oregon for Rob Wallace’s high-quality grapes. Under its own label, Del Rio produces a line of delicious wines. This blend opens with aromas of lilacs, cranberries and sweet spices, followed by flavors of pomegranates, rhubarb pie, cherries and chocolate. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (532 cases, 13.9% alc.) Griffin Creek $25 2005 Viognier, Rogue Valley Under its Griffin Creek label, Willamette Valley Vineyards was one of the first Oregon wineries to produce this Northern Rhône white variety. This is a classic with aromas of apricots, orange cream and vanilla, followed by flavors of kiwis, oranges and sweet lemons. A rich, creamy midpalate gives way to a luscious finish. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (178 cases, 14.6% alc.) Garry Oaks Winery $20 CDN 2006 Zeta, Gulf Islands The Gulf Islands is the newest appellation in British Columbia and includes Salt Spring Island, where Garry Oaks is located. This wine is made with Zweigelt, a somewhat rare Austrian variety that is grown a bit in British Columbia and Idaho. This wine opens with aromas of cherries and strawberries, followed by flavors of luscious fruit including black raspberries and blackberries. It also shows off bold tannins and black pepper in the lush finish. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (12.5% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:10 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 66

platinum

Thurston Wolfe $28 2006 Tempranillo, Washington Owner/winemaker Wade Wolfe is not one to shy away from out-of-themainstream grape varieties, and he’s one of the first Washington wineries to embrace this big Spanish red. Typical of the variety, this is a robust wine with a bit of a wild streak. It opens with aromas of black cherries, red plums and new leather, followed by thick, rich flavors of ripe plums, blueberries, cherry tobacco and cola. It’s a big, big wine with well-managed tannins and huge viscosity. We’d suggest taming this with a thick stew or marbled beef. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (70 cases, 15% alc.) Maryhill Winery $32 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This is one of three Sangioveses made at this Columbia Gorge destination winery (including a rosé), and the Leutholds have long been dedicated to this variety. It’s a big wine with aromas of leather, basil and black cherries, followed by flavors of blackberries, juicy cherries and a fair bit of oak. Modest tannins and subtle acidity provide all the structure necessary to pair this with lasagna, lamb or venison. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (667 cases, 14.5% alc.) Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $33 CDN 2005 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley It might be fair to say that Cabernet Franc is this producer’s signature wine. It certainly is one of its consistently best — and that’s saying much because this southern Okanagan Valley winery has a near-cult following across the province. This version opens with aromas of berries, oak and Rainier cherries, followed by rich, juicy flavors of milk chocolate, black pepper and Bing cherries. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (14.6% alc.) Amity Vineyards $40 2006 Sunnyside Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This vineyard near Salem, Ore., is one of Myron Redford’s favorites. The owner/winemaker of this longtime producer has crafted another classy Pinot Noir with aromas of violets, cherries and hints of oak, followed by delightful flavors of pomegranates and sweet spices. This should pair beautifully with food, and we would suggest sirloin or duck. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (203 cases, 14.4% alc.) Summerhill Pyramid Winery $25 CDN NV Cipes Brut, Okanagan Valley Steve Cipes made his money in New York real estate, then moved to the interior of British Columbia to make wine in a pyramid. And he’s been a success, thanks to a winery and restaurant that cater to visitors and a great reputation with sparkling and dessert wines. This bubbly is a blend of Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay that shows off aromas of fresh citrus, and a pleasant toastiness, followed by a richly structured palate loaded with fresh fruit flavors backed with beautiful acidity. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (12.5% alc.) Church & State Wines $26 CDN 2006 Merlot, Okanagan Valley This Vancouver Island producer reached clear into the southern Okanagan Valley for the grapes for this Merlot, and the mileage was worth it once you taste the finished product. It opens with aromas of Rainier cherries, blackberries and five-pepper spice blend, followed by flavors of roasted pine nuts, black cherries, sweet tobacco and leather. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (1,070 cases, 14.8% alc.) Best Buy! Airfield Estates $12 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay, Yakima Valley Winemaker Marcus Miller used estate grapes — a

vineyard that was converted from an asparagus field 12 years ago — to craft this clean, bright and elegant Chardonnay. This opens with aromas of minerals, lemons and a hint of butterscotch, followed by flavors of fresh orchard fruit, including pears, apples and peaches. A twist of lemon shows up in the lengthy finish. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (900 cases, 14.3% alc.) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 CDN 2007 Dry Rock Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Using grapes from its estate Dry Rock Vineyard, this southern Okanagan Valley winery has produced a Chardonnay that transcends cocktail hour and is a seriously delicious food wine. It opens with fresh, fruit-forward aromas of mangoes and other tropical fruits, followed by flavors of apples, pears and freshly mown hay. Enjoy this with a chicken salad or any number of seafood dishes. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (879 cases, 13% alc.) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $53 CDN 2006 Proprietors’ Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Each year, this winery just north of Oliver, B.C., produces two styles of Riesling ice wine. And each year, it helps to prove that this is the nectar of the gods. This gorgeous dessert wine opens with aromas of caramelized sugar, poached pears, oranges and apricots, followed by flavors of baked apples, vanilla, honey and cream. Pair with crème brûlée or enjoy on its own. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (best of class), Northwest Wine Summit, Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (800 cases, 10% alc.) Del Rio Vineyards $16 2006 Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley Rob Wallace planted 16 acres of Oregon’s favorite white grape in this vineyard near Gold Hill, and with great success. This wine reveals aromas of sweet herbs, apples, pears and orange blossoms, followed by flavors of fresh orchard fruit, including pears and apples. Bright acidity props up the fruit and makes it a great pairing with oysters, scallops or sushi. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (442 cases, 13.7% alc.) Evergreen Vineyards $18 2006 Spruce Goose Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley This winery near McMinnville, Ore., is most famous for being the home to Howard Hughes’ famous Spruce Goose, a plane made entirely of birch, ironically enough. However, Evergreen is also gaining fame for its luscious wines, and this Pinot Gris is no exception. It was crafted by Laurent Montalieu, a Frenchman who is one of Oregon’s top consulting winemakers. It shows off aromas and flavors of lemons, limes and apples and is backed with plenty of food-friendly acidity. Pair with pork, chicken or halibut. Indy International Wine Competition (double gold). (1452 cases, 13.9% alc.) Domaine de Chaberton $17 CDN 2007 Pinot Gris, British Columbia This winery near the border town of Langley, B.C., in the Fraser Valley has long been a favorite tourist destination, and this wine is sure to be a draw. It opens with aromas of lemon curd, basil, pears and lemons, followed by off-dry flavors of sweet limes, ripe pears, apples and pineapples. Refreshing acidity makes the mouth water for more. Pair with seafood or chicken. Tasters Guild (gold). (13.8% alc.) Church & State Wines $20 CDN 2007 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley Though often considered a cool-climate grape, Pinot Gris is proving to fare well in warmer regions such as the Columbia and southern Okanagan valleys. This wine’s grapes come from Saddle Ridge, a vineyard near Oliver, B.C., and it’s a beauty. It reveals aromas

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

of lilacs, apple blossoms, minerals and apricots, followed by bright flavors of tart apples and steely lemons. We loved the acidity and could easily imagine this with oysters (raw or otherwise), scallops, pork tenderloin or angel hair pasta tossed with olive oil. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (341 cases, 14% alc.) Col Solare $70 2004 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley This winery co-owned by Ste. Michelle and Italy’s Marchese Antinori is now ensconced in its beautiful Red Mountain facility. Here, Marcus Notaro takes care of the day-to-day winemaking under the direction of Doug Gore and Renzo Cotarella. This is a blend of four Bordeaux grapes, heavy on the Cabernet Sauvignon (80%). It opens with aromas of huckleberries, Dr Pepper and blackberries, followed by supple flavors of huckleberries and dark fruit. It emphasizes elegance over power and is likely to age well for another decade or so. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (4,000 cases, 14.4% alc.) Best Buy! Heymann Whinery $14 NV Cranberry, Washington If you were to judge this wine by its label, you might not take it too seriously (just check the spelling of “winery”). But pop the cork and it’s an entirely different story. This is one of the more amazing fruit wines we’ve run across. This Centralia, Wash., winery brought in cranberries from Grayland on the southern Washington coast and has crafted a wine that simply bursts with flavor. It reveals aromas of cranberries (duh), NECCO wafers and strawberries, followed by flavors of cranberries (double duh) and pie cherries. It’s a bit sweet, but the tartness of the cranberries more than balances that out. Pair with roasted turkey, chicken or pork. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (270 cases, 12% alc.) Best Buy! Hogue Cellars $10 2007 Late Harvest White Riesling, Columbia Valley This Prosser, Wash., winery has been producing Riesling since its early days, and this late-harvest version remains its most popular wine. It opens with aromas of apple blossoms and cloves, followed by flavors of fresh apples, honey, roses and juicy pears. At 4.5% residual sugar, this is a lighter style of late harvest and will pair well with any number of dishes, including Thai or Vietnamese. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (122,000 cases, 12% alc.) Tsillan Cellars $29 2005 Syrah, Columbia Valley This destination winery on Lake Chelan is best known for its whites, but it also produces a number of delicious reds. This Syrah is Tsillan’s first red from estate grapes, and it’s delicious. It opens with aromas of plums, cloves and a hint of dill, followed by flavors of plum jam, ripe blackberries and cigar box. The tannins are well in check and it’s delicious through the moderate finish. Washington State Wine Competition (best of show), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (674 cases, 14.5% alc.) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $26 CDN 2005 Grand Reserve Shiraz, Okanagan Valley In British Columbia, winemakers have generally taken on the Aussie name for Syrah, even though the wines tend to be more Northern Rhône in style. This is a great example with aromas of plum jam, dark chocolate and bacon fat, followed by flavors of lean blackberries, leather and oak. Pair this with sweetbreads, lamb or game meats. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (1,000 cases, 14% alc.) San Juan Vineyards $17 2007 Siegerrebe, Puget Sound A year ago, the

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:10 PM

Page 67

platinum 2006 version of this wine was one of our “best of the best,” and this vintage is nearly as delicious. Siegerrebe is a German variety that purportedly is a cross of Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer. This Friday Harbor winery planted just over two acres of the grape on its estate, and the resulting wines are fabulous. This reveals aromas of violets, cloves and fresh-cut apples, followed by flavors of rosewater, orange zest and ripe pears. This is a delicious oyster wine and also would pair well with a cheese plate. Seattle Wine Awards (gold). (352 cases, 12.1% alc.) Roxy Ann Winery $20 2006 Viognier, Rogue Valley Winemaker Gus Janeway blended grapes from three Rogue Valley vineyards — Pleasant View, Lakeside and RoxyAnn — to craft this luscious Viognier. It opens with aromas of honeydew melons, white pepper and cloves, followed by flavors of orange and lemon zest and a luscious creaminess on the midpalate. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (899 cases, 14.5% alc.) Basel Cellars $36 2005 Pheasant Run Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley If you have not yet visited Basel Cellars south of Walla Walla, make a point of it, as this is an amazing facility that once was a private residence. The estate vineyards that front the winery provided the grapes for this Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with aromas of black cherries, mocha, cedar and cola, followed by bold, focused flavors of black currants, cherries, raspberries and licorice. Its elegant tannins provide structure without getting in the way of all the ripe fruit. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (1,058 cases, 13.9% alc.) Columbia Crest $27 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley A lot of wine is made at Columbia Crest — more than any other winery in the Pacific Northwest. Yet winemaker Ray Einberger is able to take his time in crafting those in his reserve program. This high-end Cabernet Sauvignon opens with aromas of black raspberries, red currants and cola, followed by bold flavors of black currants, black cherries, black olives and hints of huckleberries and chocolate. Sweet tannins give this youthful approachability. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (6,000 cases, 14.2% alc.) Maryhill Winery $26 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Grenache, Columbia Valley This destination winery in the Columbia Gorge brought in fruit from Aldercreek Vineyard in the nearby Horse Heaven Hills, along with estate fruit from Gunkel vineyard to craft this Southern Rhône style of wine. It opens with aromas of deep black fruit including cassis, along with cherries and oak, followed by flavors of cherry pie, vanilla and cream. It’s a medium-bodied wine with moderate tannins and a sweet finish. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (372 cases, 14.6% alc.) Cougar Crest Winery $36 2005 Cougar Hills Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Deborah Hansen used Cabernet Franc from the estate Cougar Hills Vineyard and blended it with a bit of Merlot and Malbec to craft a wine that is classy and well made. It opens with aromas of pencil shavings, black cherries and raspberries, followed by flavors of blackberries, dark chocolate and black tea. A silky mouth feel and mellow tannins give this approachability now. We’d suggest pairing it with leaner cuts of beef or pasta in a meatless marinara sauce. Long Beach Grand Cru (gold). (945 cases, 13.7% alc.) Patit Creek Cellars $16 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley In recent years,

Patit Creek has come under new ownership and has relocated from Dayton, Wash., down the highway to Walla Walla. In the process, we’ve also noticed a nice boost in quality. This Riesling reveals aromas of rosewater and freshly squeezed limes, followed by flavors of oranges, sweet lemons and limes. Bright acidity boosts the flavors nicely. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (250 cases, 13% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $14 2007 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Cold Creek, Ste. Michelle’s oldest estate vineyard, is best known for Cabs and Chardonnays, but winemaker Bob Bertheau also loves producing a vineyard-designated Riesling from there. This is a luscious wine with aromas of minerals, Golden Delicious apples and peaches, followed by flavors of cloves, a basket of different apple varieties and peaches. Indy International Wine Competition (double gold). (4,500 cases, 12.3% alc.) 8th Generation Vineyards $20 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley The Schales family began making wine in 1783 in Germany, and eight generations later, Bernd and Stefanie Schales arrived in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley to continue the tradition. This Riesling from estate grapes near the town of Okanagan Falls reveals everything one would expect from a classic style, including sweet apples, oranges, tangerines, rose petals and minerals. It’s a charming wine from beginning to end. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (13.5% alc.) Best Buy! Kiona Vineyards Winery $13 2007 Reserve Dry Riesling, Red Mountain One reason that the wine-drinking public is sometimes reticent to enjoy Riesling is because of its reputation for being sweet. Wines like this will dispel that myth, however. It opens with aromas of tangerines, dusty gravel and apricots, followed by gorgeous flavors of minerals, apples, lemongrass and pears. Pair this with pasta in a light cream sauce, oysters or lemon chicken. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (472 cases, 13% alc.) Stag Hollow Wines $40 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District Mark Huff and Jill Zarnowitz launched this small winery and vineyard in 1994 near the town of Yamhil, Ore. Through the years, they have quietly produced some of the state’s most distinctive Pinot Noirs. This reserve-level wine reveals aromas of Rainier cherries, leather and hints of vanilla and orange oil, followed by flavors of black cherries, minerally earth and black pepper. It’s a smooth wine from entry through the memorable finish. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (170 cases, 13.7% alc.) Claar Cellars $19 2005 White Bluffs Merlot, Columbia Valley The Whitelatch family owns and operates this vineyard overlooking the White Bluffs and Columbia River north of Pasco, Wash., and consistently produces wines of distinction and value. This Merlot opens with aromas of red cherries, plum sauce and chopped almonds, followed by flavors of dark chocolate and Chelan cherries. Fairly assertive tannins provide plenty of structure. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (240 cases, 13.8% alc.) Kiona Vineyards Winery $25 2006 Ice Wine, Yakima Valley For years, Chenin Blanc was the dominant grape in the Kiona ice wine. However, in recent vintages that mix has changed to Riesling (73%) and Chenin Blanc. Regardless, it’s a delicious wine that is lighter and often more refreshing than ice wines from north of the border. This opens with aromas of honey, baked apples and cinnamon, followed by flavors of lush fruit including

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

ripe pears and apples. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (1,500 cases, 9% alc.) Volcano Vineyards $18 NV Lava Red, Rogue Valley This Bend, Ore., wine relies primarily on grapes from the Rogue Valley. This blend from two vintages (2005 and 2006) is heavily Merlot (75%) and also includes Syrah and Viognier, which were co-fermented. The result is a wine with aromas of red cherries and sweet oak, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and dark chocolate. Its sturdy tannins provide structure but don’t get in the way of all the luscious fruit. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (550 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! Willamette Valley Vineyards $15 2007 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley In recent years, this Turner, Ore., producer has earned great acclaim for its Pinot Gris. This vintage is no exception. It’s a boldly crisp wine with aromas of Asian pears, lemons and limes, followed by flavors of more pears and sweet limes. Bright acidity brings out a lot of flavors and will make it a perfect pairing with scallops, salmon or oysters. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (30,000 cases, 13% alc.) Brian Carter Cellars $58 2004 Solesce, Columbia Valley After a couple of decades making wine for others, Brian Carter has emerged with his own brand and is focused on producing blends of elegance and distinction. This Bordeaux-style blend is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and also includes Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The result is a wine that offers aromas of toffee, mushrooms and blackberries, followed by harmonious flavors of marionberries, black tea, black plums and dark chocolate. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (347 cases, 13.8% alc.) Cougar Crest Winery $32 2005 Anniversary Cuvée, Walla Walla Valley This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot comes from Cougar Hills and Stellar vineyards, both in the Walla Walla Valley. It opens with aromas of plums, cinnamon and sweet oak, followed by focused flavors of ripe blackberries and black currants. Plush chocolate dominates the memorable finish. Washington State Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (980 cases, 13.9% alc.) Spangler Vineyards $28 2006 Claret, Southern Oregon Owner/winemaker Pat Spangler continues to produce wines of distinction at the former La Garza Cellars in Roseburg, Ore., This is a blend of Merlot (87%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It offers aromas and flavors of red plums, vanilla, black pepper and pomegranates. Its strong tannins will require a fairly hearty meal. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (216 cases, 13.8% alc.) Maryhill Winery $20 2005 Syrah, Columbia Valley This is a blend of grapes from four vineyards spread throughout the vast Columbia Valley. The result is a delicious wine that is a bit lighter than typical Washington Syrahs, meaning it should pair with a broader array of dishes. It shows off aromas and flavors of black olives, huckleberries and cranberries with a hint of espresso on the finish. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (1,333 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! Dusted Valley Vintners $15 2005 Boomtown Syrah, Columbia Valley The boys at this fun-loving Walla Walla winery created the “Boomtown” label with three ideas in mind: vin-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/11/08

2:37 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 68

platinum

tage, value and varietal goodness. They certainly nailed all three here. It shows off aromas and flavors of black olives, ripe dark fruit, sweet cherries and even a hint of orange pekoe tea. Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (650 cases, 14.2% alc.) Dunham Cellars $45 2004 Syrah, Columbia Valley Our 2008 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year earned its reputation with Cabernet Sauvignon and has emerged as one of the region’s top Syrah producers. The grapes for this wine come from winemaker Eric Dunham’s favorite vineyard, Lewis, which is near Rattlesnake Mountain in the Columbia Valley. It is an intriguing wine with aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries, plums and a whiff of smoke. WineFest (gold). (1,686 cases, 13.8% alc.) Best Buy! Pacific Rim Winemakers $12 2007 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley This Randal Grahm-owned winery in the shadow of Red Mountain is focused pretty heavily on Riesling. But winemaker Nicolas Quille and crew also produce this delicious Chenin Blanc. It reveals a purity of fruit in the nose and palate, with notes of Fuji apples, sweet lemons a hint of honey. Said one judge: “It’s the ultimate expression of Chenin Blanc.” Pacific Rim Wine Competition (best of class). (12,000 cases, 13.1% alc.) Best Buy! Kiona Vineyards Winery $10 2007 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley The Williams family has crafted a Chenin Blanc for many years, even when the variety has enjoyed a less-thanstellar reputation with the American public. That dedication pays off annually, and this off-dry Chenin is a delicious example of the variety. It is loaded with aromas and flavors of limes, ripe pears, sweet pears and peaches. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (2,021 cases, 12% alc.) Van Westen Vineyards $25 2006 Viognier, Okanagan Valley Van Westen is a fairly new producer on the Naramata Bench near Penticton, B.C., and the grapes for this Viognier come from its estate vineyard. It’s a classic with aromas and flavors of oranges, cream, vanilla and tropical fruits. Bright acidity melds with luscious flavors. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (104 cases, 14.2% alc.) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $35 CDN 2005 SunRock Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley Jackson-Triggs has been producing vineyard-designated wines from SunRock for the past few vintages — and with great success, as the wines often are among the Oliver, B.C., winery’s finest. This reveals aromas and flavors of black cherries, sweet herbs, Baker’s chocolate and cola, all backed with approachable tannins. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (500 cases, 14% alc.) Maryhill Winery $38 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel, Columbia Valley Maryhill made its reputation as the first Washington winery to emerge on the national stage with a world-class Zinfandel. This reserve-level Zin provides aromas and flavors of black raspberries, chocolate-covered cherries and buttered toast. The velvety mouth feel leads to a length finish. Long Beach Grand Cru (gold). (968 cases, 16.4% alc.) Jacksonville Vineyards $38 2006 Fiasco Zinfandel, Applegate Valley Deep in Southern Oregon, a following for Zinfandel is emerging, perhaps influenced by the Northern California wine industry, which is closer to this region than Portland in the north. This Zin from a newer produc-

er reveals aromas of blackberries, black pepper and fresh Chelan cherries, followed by delicious flavors of black olives, mocha and cherries. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (75 cases, 14.5% alc.) Merry Cellars $30 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Patrick Merry took his two best barrels of Cabernet Franc — one from Stillwater Creek Vineyard and one from Snipes Canyon — to craft this delicious red wine. It shows off aromas and flavors of sweet spices, black cherries and chocolate overtones. A well-balanced wine that invites further exploration. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (44 cases, 14.7% alc.) Best Buy! Kiona Vineyards Winery $12 2005 Lemberger, Red Mountain Long known as “Washington’s Zinfandel,” this rare Austrian variety has been grown for decades in the Yakima Valley (which includes Red Mountain). The Williams family has been dedicated to Lemberger for the past quarter century and consistently makes some of the best. This easy-drinking red offers aromas and flavors of lingonberries, black raspberries and cherries. It’s a smooth, delicious wine. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold/best of class). (5,100 cases, 13.5% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $18 2007 Indian Wells Riesling, Columbia Valley Riesling can grow well in many climates and tends to show different traits as a result. The fruit for this wine comes from the Wahluke Slope, one of the warmest growing regions in Washington. The result is a wine with aromas and flavors loaded with fresh fruit, including ripe apples, apricots, pears and peaches. This is a bit off-dry, making it a great match with curries, spicy Thai dishes or pho. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (6,500 cases, 11.5% alc.) Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle $10 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Last summer, this omnipresent wine topped our judging of more than 100 Northwest Rieslings. It’s easy to see why, considering the aromas and flavors of green tea, white peaches and Pink Lady apples. The fruit absolutely dominates this luscious and affordable white wine. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (556,000 cases, 12% alc.) Stangeland Vineyards & Winery $50 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills This winery in the Eola-Amity Hills northwest of Salem, Ore., has been producing wines since 1991, and its estate vineyard was first planted in 1978. This reserve-level Pinot Noir opens with aromas of sandalwood and cherries, followed by flavors that include rich cherries, exotic spices and leathery notes. It’s a fairly big wine that should age well for a decade or more. International Eastern Wine Competition (gold). (221 cases, 14.5% alc.) Erath Vineyards $36 2006 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This longtime Oregon winery did not seem to lose a step when Dick Erath sold the operation to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. In fact, the Dundee Hills producer is going as strong as ever. This Pinot Noir opens with aromas of bright cherries and a hint of coffee, followed by complex flavors of Bing cherries and hints of chocolate. It’s boldly flavored with silky tannins and a lengthy finish. Long Beach Grand Cru (gold). (8,140 cases, 13.5% alc.) Best Buy! Terra Blanca Winery $15 2002 Estate Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain One of the oldest wines in our competition, this

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Merlot from estate grapes on Red Mountain reveals aromas and flavors of ripe plums, black cherries, dark chocolate and a hint of spearmint. It should pair well with a variety of grilled meats, pasta with a meat sauce or hearty stews. Critics & Masters International Wine & Spirits Challenge (gold). (4,261 cases, 13.5% alc.) Milbrandt Vineyards $25 2005 Legacy Merlot, Wahluke Slope The Milbrandt brothers own and farm some of the top vineyards on Washington’s warm Wahluke Slope. They have a winemaking operation near the town of Mattawa and plan to build a tasting room in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser. This Merlot provides aromas and flavors of blackberries, white pepper, dark chocolate and a whisper of mint. San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). (1,000 cases, 14.7% alc.) Northstar $41 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Ste. Michelleowned winery focuses primarily on Merlot. The winery is south of Walla Walla, and winemaker David “Merf ” Merfeld likes to craft a Merlot each year from valley grapes. However, the bad winter freeze of 2004 changed those plans, so this wine uses grapes from the broader Columbia Valley appellation. It provides aromas and flavors of inviting black cherries, blackberries, fresh-ground espresso and chocolate. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (4,248 cases, 14.5% alc.) Township 7 Vineyards and Winery $25 CDN 2006 Harmony One Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley This rising star was named after the Fraser Valley border city of Langley, which was known in its early days as “Township 7.” The winery has since opened a second location in the Okanagan Valley near Penticton, where its grapes come from. This reserve-level Chardonnay provides aromas and flavors of butterscotch, apples, mangoes and white chocolate. It’s a big, juicy wine. All-Canadian Wine Championships (double gold). (225 cases, 13.5% alc.) Church & State Wines $25 CDN 2006 Gravelbourg Vineyard Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Church & State produces this vineyard-designated wine from the Black Sage Bench south of Oliver, B.C. It reveals aromas and flavors of crème brûlée, sage, butter and fresh pineapple. It’s a bold wine with a rich and creamy midpalate and a faintly buttery finish. Tasters Guild (gold). (336 cases, 14.3% alc.) See Ya Later Ranch $40 CDN 2006 Ehrenfelser Icewine, Okanagan Valley This winery, formerly known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyard, is high in the hills above Okanagan Falls, B.C., and provides one of the prettiest views in all of Northwest wine country. This ice wine reveals complex aromas and flavors that include jasmine, fresh peaches, poached pears, tangy pineapples and even a hint of marzipan. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (9.5% alc.) Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $49 CDN 2007 Minus Nine Ehrenfelser Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Ehrenfelser is a German grape that is a cross of Riesling and Silvaner. As it turns out, this variety is excellent for producing ice wines. This example from one of B.C.’s finest producers offers aromas and flavors of apricots, cloves, baked apples, golden raisins and honey. It’s bold and lush yet has the acidity to keep the sugar from becoming too syrupy. Indy International Wine Competition (double gold). (378 cases, 10.8% alc.) Brian Carter Cellars $30 2005 Tuttorosso, Yakima Valley This is Brian

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:11 PM

Page 69

platinum Carter’s version of a Super Tuscan. It’s dominated by Sangiovese (65%) and includes Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) and Syrah. It provides aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberries and baker’s chocolate. It’s a beautifully made wine that is well balanced through the long finish. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (834 cases, 13.7% alc.) Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $45 CDN 2005 Meritage, Okanagan Valley This winery just north of the U.S. border near Oliver, B.C., has developed into a prime-time destination. First was a restaurant, and now Burrowing Owl has opened spacious accommodations that rise above the estate vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. The wines are pretty special, too, as evidenced by this Bordeauxstyle blend. It offers aromas and flavors of dark chocolate, blackberries, black cherries and crushed tobacco leaf. The tannins are fairly assertive, so this could use a bit more time in the cellar. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (14.4% alc.) Forbidden Fruit Winery $30 CDN 2007 Plumiscuous Plum Mistelle, Similkameen Valley This winery in B.C.’s Similkameen Valley is dedicated to producing seriously delicious fruit wines from the estate’s certified organic 147-acre tree fruit farm. The results are usually spectacular, and the names are often amusing. This is a fortified wine made from plums and is a beauty. It smells and tastes like cherries and red plums and is smooth and rich from first sip through the lengthy finish. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (17% alc.) Volcano Vineyards $32 2006 Syrah, Rogue Valley Scott and Liz Ratcliffe operate this winery in Bend, Ore., using grapes from the Rogue Valley. This Syrah was co-fermented with 2% Viognier in the tradition of Côte-Rôtie. It opens with aromas of violets, black pepper and black olives, followed by plush flavors of blackberry jam and plums. Well-managed tannins provide structure without getting in the way of the fruit. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (500 cases, 14.3% alc.) Recline Ridge Vineyards $17 CDN 2006 Kerner, Okanagan Valley This winery in Tappen, B.C., is one of North America’s mostnortherly wineries, as it sits well above the 50th parallel. Yet ample sun allows estate grapes such as this Kerner to ripen. This is a gorgeous wine with aromas and flavors of floral notes, baked pears and caramel apples. All-Canadian Wine Championships (double gold). (13% alc.) Cougar Crest Winery $20 2006 Viognier, Walla Walla Valley Deborah and David Hansen produced this wine from estate grapes in the Walla Walla Valley, and it’s a classic. It reveals aromas of minerals, limes, oranges and coconuts, followed by flavors of lemons, oranges and even something that reminded us of tropical punch. Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (1,123 cases, 14.2% alc.) Woodward Canyon Winery $44 2005 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Willamette Valley The vineyards where this wine’s grapes originated read like a who’s who of Washington viticulture: Champoux, Sagemoor, Klipsun and Tapteil. The result is a wine with plenty of depth. It opens with aromas of black currants and cedar, followed by flavors of black raspberries, plums and chocolate. It’s loaded with flavor through the lengthy finish. San Francisco International Wine Competition (double gold). (2,842 cases, 14.8% alc.) Spangler Vineyards $35 2006 Petite Sirah, Southern Oregon Before this

year, it would not have been legal for Pat Spangler to call this a Petite Sirah. Fortunately, a change in Oregon wine-naming rules now allows it to be called something other than Durif. This is a delicious example of a wine whose popularity rose out of California. It reveals aromas and flavors of black peppercorns, warm raspberries, cherry pie and blackberries. There’s a lot going on with this complex red. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (222 cases, 12.4% alc.) Columbia Winery $28 2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley This Woodinville, Wash., winery has undergone a number of changes in recent times, including the retirement of winemaker David Lake and the sale to a new wine company based in Sonoma County. Kerry Norton, who made his mark at Covey Run, has ably taken over winemaking duties and has crafted a delicious Italian-style red. This offers aromas and flavors of strawberries, dark cherries and cream. It’s a delicate wine that should pair well with lighter pasta dishes. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (650 cases, 14.1% alc.)

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

fresh plums, raspberry cordial, and sweet cherries, along with a hint of cedar and a dark chocolate finish. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (320 cases, 13.3% alc.) Pentâge Wines $28 CDN 2005 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley This winery overlooks scenic Skaha Lake just south of Penticton, B.C., and Mark Gardner and Julie Rennie have been crafting fine wines since opening their doors earlier this decade. This Cab Franc shows off aromas of black pepper and dark cherries, followed by sturdy flavors of plums and blackberries. It’s a delicious and well-rounded wine. All-Canadian Wine Championships (double gold). (14% alc.) $20 CDN Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2005 Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley This winery in Summerland, B.C., uses estate grapes from the venerable Black Sage Bench for this delicious Cab Franc. This reveals aromas and flavors of cherries, maple, sweet herbs and ripe plums. It’s a tasty wine with well-managed tannins. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (13.9% alc.)

Stella Fino $25 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley Matt Steiner runs this young winery near Milton-Freewater, Ore., in the Walla Walla Valley. He named the winery after his great-grandmother, who emigrated to the United States from Italy. It’s a beautiful wine with aromas and flavors of cherries, vanilla, blackberries and dark chocolate. Sweet tannins provide background music for this luscious red. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (72 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery $25 CDN 2006 Black Sage Vineyard White Meritage, Okanagan Valley Few wineries produce a white Meritage, which typically is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion (but also can include the rare Sauvignon Vert grape). This is a tasty example with aromas and flavors of lemons, figs, chutney and sweet herbs. All-Canadian Wine Championships (gold). (14.5% alc.)

Kana Winery $18 2005 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley Kana, a winery in Yakima, Wash., is making its mark with red blends and out-of-the-mainstream varieties, including this rare (in Washington) Spanish grape. It’s a seriously delicious wine with aromas and flavors of red plums, cola, minerally earth and mint. Restrained tannins provide youthful approachability. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (274 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $22 2006 Riesling, Columbia Valley Produced from estate grapes along the shores of Lake Chelan, this luscious Riesling shows off aromas and flavors of sweet spices, mineral notes and tons of fresh orchard fruit. It’s just off-dry at 1.7% residual sugar, so this should pair well with spicier dishes such as Mexican, Thai or Chinese. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Grand Harvest Awards (gold). (406 cases, 13% alc.)

Des Voigne Cellars $26 2006 San Remo Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Darren Des Voigne, who owns and operates this small Woodinville, Wash., winery, uses grapes from Ciel du Cheval and Candy Mountain vineyards for this 100% Sangiovese. It is a well-rounded wine with aromas and flavors of sandalwood, cherries and vanilla. It’s a harmonious wine with light tannins and should pair with pizza, lasagna, sirloin or stuffed flank steak. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (223 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy! Hogue Cellars $10 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Wash., is one of the largest producers of Riesling in the Pacific Northwest — and one of the best. This Riesling actually is blended with 11% Gewürztraminer, providing it with additional complexity. It reveals aromas and flavors of apples, peaches, Bosc pears and a hint of lychee in the finish. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (69,000 cases, 11.5% alc.)

Camaraderie Cellars $25 2004 Cabernet Franc, Washington Don and Vicki Corson run this wonderful little winery in the hills above Port Angeles, Wash., far away from Seattle — and even farther from their vineyard sources in Eastern Washington. Their wines now are served at The Tasting Room in the Pike Place Market, which makes them a little easier for city dwellers to find. And you’ll want to seek out this Cab Franc, as it reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, a sprinkling of cocoa and a hint of mint. It’s a beautifully balanced wine with a near absence of tannins and plenty of bright acidity. Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (298 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle $12 2007 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley Known around this Woodinville, Wash., winery as “little Eroica” for its similarity in style to the more famous Eroica Riesling, this bone-dry Riesling is one of the great whites in the Ste. Michelle lineup. It provides aromas and flavors of oranges, pears, peaches and apples with mouthwatering acidity. Riverside International Wine Competition (best white wine). (37,000 cases, 13% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards $30 2006 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon This winery in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley has come a long way since it was La Garza Cellars. Pat and Loree Spangler bought the winery and are turning out some superb wines. This Cab Franc reveals aromas and flavors of

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

Chehalem $44 2006 Ridgecrest Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Harry Peterson-Nedry’s winery is in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, and he also owns this estate vineyard in the nearby Ribbon Ridge AVA, the Northwest’s smallest appellation. This elegant Pinot Noir opens with a fresh explosion of raspberries and cherries, followed by bright flavors of sandalwood, cherries and cola. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (587 cases, 15.2% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/9/08

1:12 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 70

platinum

Owen Roe $21 2006 Sharecropper Pinot Noir, Oregon Owen Roe makes some of Oregon’s most sought-after wines. This is one of the Saint Paul winery’s most delicious and affordable wines. It opens with a nice mix of huckleberries, violets and sweet cherries, followed by flavors of black cherries, voluptuous black plums and a touch of chocolate. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (4,800 cases, 14.1% alc.) Duck Pond Cellars $20 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The Fries family runs large winery operations in both Oregon and Washington, and this Pinot Noir is one of the state’s most affordable and delicious. This reveals aromas and flavors of bright cherries, cedar and vanilla. This wine shows off loads of wine, and the elegant tannins provide structure and background music. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (22,637 cases, 14% alc.) Best Buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Extra Dry, Columbia Valley This off-dry bubbly from the Northwest’s largest sparkling wine producer shows off aromas of yeasty bread and white strawberries, followed by flavors of citrus and fresh-cut apples. This offers a certain amount of creaminess on the midpalate that provides a level of sophistication and complexity. With its hint of sweetness, this is a great wine for weddings and other large celebrations. San Francisco International Wine Competition (double gold). (51,919 cases, 11.5% alc.) Barnard Griffin $35 2006 Ciel du Cheval Merlot, Red Mountain Owner/winemaker Rob Griffin makes few vineyarddesignated wines, but he surely could not resist with this Merlot from one of Washington’s top growers. This is Syrah-like in its approach with aromas of jammy berries, black cherries, chocolate and vanilla. It’s richly structured with bold tannins and tons of fruit. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold). (14.4% alc.) Willamette Valley Vineyards $18 2006 Dijon Clone Chardonnay, Willamette Valley This is named for the clones of Chardonnay developed at the University of Dijon in Burgundy and planted with success in Oregon. This opens with aromas of clover, peppermint, sweet yellow apples and smoke, followed by silky flavors of kiwis and pears. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (2,388 cases, 14.5% alc.) Tsillan Cellars $23 2007 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley The 2005 version of this wine won a Platinum from us two years ago, and this vintage is nearly as good. It offers aromas and flavors of pears, vanilla, sweet lemons and apples. Bracing acidity boosts the fruit and helps this pair with oysters, scallops or pasta in a white sauce. New World International Wine Competition (double gold), Seattle Wine Awards, Washington State Wine Competition, San Diego International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (394 cases, 13.9% alc.) Best Buy! Hogue Cellars $10 2007 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley In all likelihood, this is the favorite Pinot Gris in Washington, partly because of the quality and quantity and partly because of the name change (to Pinot Grigio) a few years ago that quadrupled sales. This opens with aromas of Granny Smith apples and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of lemons, limes and white pepper. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (50,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle $48 2005 Artist Series Meritage, Columbia Valley This is the 13th edition of Ste. Michelle’s Artist Series Meritage. This promotes British Columbia artist Bobbie Burgers, and the blend is heavy on Merlot (57%), as well as Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Petit Verdot and Malbec. The aromas and flavors reveal a wine with quiet, ethereal tones, including mild blackberries, white pepper, a hint of tobacco leaf and mild earthiness. San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). (1,400 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Gray Monk Estate Winery $17 CDN 2007 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley The Heiss family has been producing wines for more than a quarter-century in the central Okanagan Valley north of Kelowna, B.C. Gewürztraminer is one of their specialties, and this version is a dandy. It offers aromas of juniper spice, cardamom, lychee and cloves, followed by flavors of grapefruits, pineapples and lychee. Enjoy with turkey, duck or a plate of assorted cheeses and fresh fruits. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (3,300 cases, 12.5% alc.)

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $34 CDN 2006 SunRock Vineyard Meritage, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Brooke Blair crafted a wine that is Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) and Cabernet Franc. It offers rich aromas of chocolate, coffee, blueberries, blackberries and toffee, followed by flavors of black peppers, blueberries and blackberries. Firm tannins are well managed. This should pair with prime rib, venison, lamb or a hearty stew. All-Canadian Wine Championships (best red wine). (300 cases, 14% alc.)

Best Buy! Columbia Crest $11 2005 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley The grapes for this large-production wine came primarily from the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope, two of Washington’s newer appellations, though well-established regions. This reveals aromas of black cherries, red currants and sarsaparilla, followed by lush flavors of cherry cordials, blackberries and sweet tannins. It’s a delicious wine that is priced for everyday enjoyment. Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (115,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Olympic Cellars $25 2005 La Dolce Vida Sagemoor Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley This winery along the highway near Port Angeles, Wash., has produced a Syrah of distinction from one of Washington’s oldest and most revered vineyards. It is Côte-Rôtie in style with aromas of plums and bacon and flavors of blackberries, black olives, tar and plums. San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). (150 cases, 14.9% alc.) Dusted Valley Vintners $28 2006 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley The boys at Dusted Valley Vintners distinguish themselves with their fine Syrahs. This is co-fermented with 5% Viognier in the Northern Rhône tradition and reveals aromas and flavors of raspberry jam, blueberries and a luscious dark fruit compote. Smooth tannins allow the juicy fruit to shine. Pair with lamb, venison or a hearty helping of lasagna. Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (412 cases, 14.5% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $28 2004 Ethos Syrah, Columbia Valley The “Ethos” line replaced Ste. Michelle’s reserve line a few years ago, and the grapes that go into this are the best as deemed by winemaker Bob Bertheau. This offers aromas and flavors of blackberries, mint, plums and black olives. It’s a mouth-filling wine with chocolate tones on the finish. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (600 cases, 14.5% alc.) Church & State Wines $30 CDN 2006 Coyote Bowl Syrah, Okanagan Valley This vineyard on the Black Sage Bench in the southern Okanagan Valley is named for the coyotes that roam the region. This Syrah shows off aromas and flavors of dark plums, slightly under-ripe blackberries and a hint of fresh dill. It’s a leaner wine that is European in style. International Wine & Spirits Competition (double gold/best in class). (888 cases, 14.5% alc.) San Juan Vineyards $17 2007 Madeleine Angevine, Puget Sound This cool-climate grape is grown primarily in England and the Puget Sound region of Washington. It’s a gorgeous wine that often reminds us a bit of Sauvignon Blanc. This version shows aromas of freshly mown hay, minerals and oranges, followed by flavors of limes, honeydew melons, pineapples and minerals. This is a great wine to enjoy with a shrimp salad or seared scallops. Riverside International Wine Competition (gold). (640 cases, 12.4% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Abacela Winery $20 2006 Dolcetto, Southern Oregon This grape from the Piedmont region of Italy is nicknamed “the little sweet one” even though the wines made with it rarely are anything but dry. This version from Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, dark plums and black licorice. It’s a sturdy wine that will pair with baked ziti or grilled meats. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (316 cases, 13.9% alc.) Dalla Vina Wines $36 2006 Terra Madre Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This winery in Carlton, Ore., has an estate vineyard on Parrett Mountain, an area of the Chehalem Mountains that perhaps deserves its own AVA one day. The grapes for this wine came from Washington’s Yakima Valley as Karl and Carole Dinger awaited their first estate fruit. This Sangiovese provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, black pepper, black licorice and blueberries with a hint of chocolate on the finish. The winery changed its name to Terra Vina starting with the 2007 vintage. National Women’s Wine Competition (gold). (37 cases, 16.5% alc.) Best Buy! Harbinger Winery $14 NV Dynamo White, Washington Sara Gagnon was working for another winery when she was in a plane crash in the Olympic Mountains that left the pilot dead. She walked out of the mountains determined to live her dream of owning a winery, and Harbinger in Port Angeles, Wash., is the culmination of her efforts. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling is delicious with aromas of honeysuckle and apples, followed by flavors of peaches, oranges and pears. Washington State Wine Competition (gold). (300 cases, 12.6% alc.) Best Buy! Pontin Del Roza $12 2007 White Riesling, Yakima Valley In 2009, the Pontin family will mark its 25th anniversary making wine in Washington’s Yakima Valley. Scott Pontin oversees winemaking and has a special touch with whites. This Riesling reveals aromas of spearmint, apples and pears, followed by bold, off-dry flavors of sweet peaches, oranges, caramel and cinnamon. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (800 cases, 11.7% alc.) Adelsheim Vineyard $46 2006 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Named for David and Ginny Adelsheim’s

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

54-71 platinum.qxd

12/11/08

2:34 PM

Page 71

platinum daughter, Elizabeth, this represents the finest barrels in Adelsheim’s cellar. This red provides aromas and flavors of cherries, cedar, black pepper and a whiff of violets. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (1,760 cases, 14.3% alc.)

and flavors of cloves, grapefruits, oranges, limes and pineapples, backed with spot-on acidity. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (4,000 cases, 12.3% alc.)

Passion Vineyards $25 2006 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley Winemaker Chuck Laird has crafted a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah from Spring Creek Vineyards near Benton City. It’s a great effort for the first vintage of this Issaquah, Wash., winery. It shows off aromas of blueberry pie, almonds and caramelized sugar, followed by flavors of gorgeous fruit, including huckleberries, boysenberries and plums. Indy International Wine Competition (gold). (75 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Zerba Cellars $30 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Zerba jumped onto our radar three years ago when it earned a Platinum for its Syrah, then two years ago when it nabbed three more Platinums. Owner/winemaker Cecil Zerba continues to impress with this Cab, thanks to aromas and flavors of black olives, mint, black currants, cherries and chocolate. Tannins are approachable now, so enjoy this with lamb, venison, beef or duck. Northwest Wine Summit, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (988 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Chester-Kidder Wines $50 2004 Red Wine, Columbia Valley Most of the wines in the Long Shadows program are headlined by famous winemakers from around the world. Gilles Niçault, the resident winemaker for Long Shadows — the guy who does all the work at this Walla Walla winery — gets first billing on this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It’s a juicy wine with aromas and flavors of blackberries, moist earth and ripe plums. Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold). (1,797 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Covington Cellars $30 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley David and Cindy Lawson founded this Woodinville, Wash., winery in 2002. This wine pulls grapes primarily from Kiona Vineyard on Red Mountain, along with a bit of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It opens with aromas of darker-toned fruit and oak, followed by flavors of bright raspberries and cherries. It’s a smooth, delicious wine made in the style of a Super Tuscan. Indy International Wine Competition (double gold). (140 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Pentâge Wines $29 2004 Pentâge, Okanagan Valley This Penticton, B.C., producer’s flagship wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Gamay Noir. It opens with aromas of cherries and vanilla, followed by juicy flavors of black currants and blackberries. It’s a balanced wine whose tannins are in check. All-Canadian Wine Championships (14% alc.)

Best Buy! Flying Fish $13 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Click Wine of Seattle produces wines from throughout the world and also from closer to home. Former Northstar winemaker Gordy Hill crafted this Riesling, which has 14% Gewürztraminer blended in. It opens with aromas of grapefruits, Red Delicious apples and peaches, followed by flavors of orange blossoms, kitchen spices and baked apple pie. San Francisco International Wine Competition (double gold/best Riesling). (7,800 cases, 12% alc.)

Desert Wind Vineyards $20 2005 Ruah, Wahluke Slope This Bordeaux-style red blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the Fries family’s 540-acre vineyard on the arid Wahluke Slope north of the Yakima Valley. This wine provides aromas and flavors of plums, tobacco, black cherries, black olives and blueberries. It’s a well-structured wine that should pair well with everything from meatloaf to pizza to prime rib. National Women’s Wine Competition (gold). (14% alc.) Church & State Wines $50 CDN 2005 Quintessential, Okanagan Valley This is the top-of-the-line red for this Vancouver Island winery, which blended Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec to craft a wine of expression and elegance. It shows off aromas and flavors of dried cherries, cloves, plums and blackberries. Pacific Rim Wine Competition (gold). (364 cases, 14.62% alc.) Best Buy! Abiqua Wind Vineyard $15 2006 Collier’s Early Muscat, Willamette Valley Early Muscat is a variety that was developed at U.C. Davis that is grown in good quantity in Oregon. Abiqua Wind is in Scotts Mills, a tiny community south of Oregon City. It produces many delicious and floral wines. This is loaded with aromas and flavors of peaches, mangoes, kiwis and papayas. It’s an off-dry wine that is perfect as a brunch or picnic wine. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold/best of class). (13.5% alc.) Best Buy Pacific Rim Winemakers $10 2007 Gewürztraminer, Columbia Valley Winemaker Nicolas Quille blended 70% Washington fruit with 30% from Oregon to produce a Gewürztraminer that is lighter in alcohol and more diverse in flavor. The result is luscious with aromas

Poet’s Leap $22 2006 Riesling, Columbia Valley Armin Diel is among the elite of German winemaking, and his involvement in the Long Shadows project with this Riesling has been a coup, and the wines have performed superbly through the years. This version provides aromas and flavors of apricots, apples, sweet lemons and a racy mineral note. It’s a polished wine that is beautifully balanced. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (1,879 cases, 12.9% alc.) Evergreen Vineyards $18 2007 Spruce Goose Riesling, Willamette Valley This Riesling’s grapes came from two notable vineyards: Medici in the Chehalem Mountains and Hyland in the McMinnville AVA. Winemaker Laurent Montalieu then crafted a Riesling with aromas and flavors of limes, apples, pears and cloves. It’s a beautifully balanced wine that should pair well with shellfish, pork, crab cakes and Asian dishes. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (800 cases, 13% alc.) Willamette Valley Vineyards $24 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon No fewer than seven clones of Pinot Noir were used for this wine, which is Willamette Valley Vineyards’ mainline Pinot Noir. It is an elegant wine with aromas and flavors of bright cherries, raspberries and red plums. It is lighter in style, so it could pair with everything from sirloin to salmon. And it is affordable and plentiful. San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). (25,127 cases, 14.5% alc.) Patit Creek Cellars $29 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Through the years, this winery has gained its reputation with Merlot. This vintage uses grapes from such top name vineyards as Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge. It

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

opens with aromas of dusty chocolate and dark cherries, followed by opulent flavors of Bing and Chelan cherries, bittersweet chocolate and sweet herbs. Long Beach Grand Cru (gold). (275 cases, 14% alc.) Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $25 CDN 2006 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley This southern Okanagan Valley winery has crafted a luscious Chardonnay with judicious use of oak. It provides aromas and flavors of canned pears, fresh-cut pineapples and just-off-the-tree apples. A trace of butter gives a hint of oak aging as well as complexity. Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). (14% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $20 CDN 2007 Stoney Slope Riesling, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Hagen Kruger produces this vineyarddesignated wine from the 25-year-old vines in front of the winery. It is a mouth-watering Riesling with aromas of tart apples and minerals and haunting flavors of green apples, minerals and barely ripe pears. It’s an excellent example of a dry Riesling. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (250 cases, 13.3% alc.) Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2006 Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Stephen and Gloria Reustle are making a lot of noise with their young operation in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, as they produce wines of great quality and interest. This Tempranillo is a brooding red with dark aromas of leather, plums, blackberries and black pepper, followed by flavors of cola and leather. It’s almost Petite Sirah-like in its structure, meaning you can lay this down for a while or pair it up with a hearty meal. Northwest Wine Summit (gold). (1,000 cases, 13.1% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 God’s Mountain Vineyard Riesling, Okanagan Valley God’s Mountain is a vineyard south of Penticton, B.C., that overlooks scenic Skaha Lake. Each year, the Kruger boys produce an intriguing Riesling from its grapes. This is no exception as it shows off aromas and flavors of rosewater, jasmine, nutmeg, lychee, sweet limes and minerals. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (200 cases, 12% alc.) Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $24 CDN 2006 Optimum Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Though best know for its whites, this Oliver, B.C., winery also crafts several delicious reds. This Pinot Noir is the picture of elegance, thanks to aromas and flavors of cherries, berries and cedar. A smooth entry and understated tannins give this youthful approachability. Wine Press Northwest (Outstanding). (400 cases, 13% alc.) Best Buy! Five H $13 2006 White Riesling, Columbia Valley Three decades ago, Doyle Hinman launched Hinman Vineyards, the oldest winery in Oregon’s Lane County. After leaving his namesake operation, he continued to work in the industry. This wine is his and his family’s jump back into an ownership role. The operation focuses on one wine: Riesling. The winery is in Eugene, and the grapes come from Washington’s Columbia Valley. This reveals aromas and flavors of pineapples, lychee, fresh-cut apples and ripe pears, all backed with impressive acidity. International Eastern Wine Competition (gold). (1,545 cases, 11% alc.) ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

9:44 AM

Page 72

WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

Maryhill Winery 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA

Tasting Room Open daily 10-6 • Gold medal wines • Huge Gift Shop selection www.maryhillwinery.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

1-877MARYHILL

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:03 AM

Page 73

WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

WINE COUNTRY: SPOKANE

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:09 AM

Page 74

WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON

San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA

360-378-WINE Winter hours: December: Open 11-5 pm Thurs. thru Mon. Jan. & Feb.: by appointment Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com

Family owned & operated winery producing fine wine using estate organically grown & Yakima Valley grapes. Winery grounds available for rental for weddings and special events. Winter Hours: Sales by appt. Spring Opening: April 4th Saturdays 12-5 pm Shipping available www.lopezislandvineyards.com winery@lopezislandvineyards.com

Shipping available

360468-3644

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:12 AM

Page 75

WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON O•S Winery 121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.

Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines 360-748-0432 • www.widgeonhill.com

Located in South Seattle Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.oswinery.com

WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:19 AM

Page 76

WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:23 AM

Page 77

WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA VALLEY Desert Hills Winery See us for your wine & gift baskets! 1208 North 1st St. Yakima, WA (Exit 31 off 1-82 Go 1/2 mi., on right)

Tasting Room hours: Mon.-Fri. 10-4 Saturday 10-5 or by appointment Join us for our new releases! Cab Franc & Five Vines

www.deserthillswinery.com • 509-453-0503

Award-Winning Wines Tasting Room open: Dec.-Jan.: Daily 12 noon - 4 pm Feb.-Nov.: Daily 10 am - 5 pm 530 Gurley Rd., Granger, WA 98932

1-866-EATON HILL

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

78-83 Match Makers

12/9/08

12:23 PM

Page 78

M AT C H M A K E R S Grilled Canadian Elk with Blueberry Demi-glace and Cranberry Foam from Brix 25° is paired with Morrison Lane’s 2004 Nebbiolo.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

78-83 Match Makers

12/11/08

12:41 PM

Page 79

M AT C H M A K E R S

Drink to success

WINE

Northwest wines help young restaurants find sweet spot in tight economy BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

BRIX 25° G I G H A R B O R , WA

ONE RESTAURANT IN THE Northwest seems nearly bulletproof in the face of the recession. And the thick catalog dominated by Pacific Northwest wine is akin to a flak jacket. Regional cuisine, paired with one of the Northwest’s top wine lists, is a perfect fit for Brix 25° in Gig Harbor, Wash. “It has to do with the quality of the food, the quality of the service and the outstanding Northwest wine list, but it also has to do with where we are at,” said wine director Daniel Jackson. “Gig Harbor is a pretty affluent area. We are still bettering last year every month so far, despite the economy.” Revenue from wine sales is a major reason for the success at this 18-table, dinner-only restaurant that set sail in 2004. Jackson and a manager of a famed Seattle metropolitan restaurant were comparing figures. It showed Brix 25° generates about 75% as much wine revenue. “His mouth dropped. It just dropped,” Jackson said with a smirk. “He said, ‘You’re kidding! This little place?’ But almost every

night here, almost every single table has a bottle of wine, which you don’t find at every restaurant.” It’s a thoughtful array Jackson compiles. He earned acclaimed from Wine Press Northwest for an Outstanding Northwest Wine List award and Brix 25° is the Washington Wine Commission’s 2008 Washington Wine Restaurant of the Year. “That’s pretty huge considering you’ve got restaurants from three states with wine programs trying to win awards,” Jackson said. General manager Jason Winniford proudly displays the recognition, which includes an etched, large format commemorative bottle from the Washington Wine Commission. “The award has done well for us,” Jackson said. “It makes it easier to get certain wines, and we’re getting a lot more people coming from Seattle and Tacoma for dinner.” What guests find are two lists, starting with an 18-page assortment that’s 100% Washington and Oregon that includes nearly 30 wines available by the glass. Categories begin with the leastexpensive at the top. The Captain’s List, however, features many of the region’s most expensive

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

Morrison Lane $35 2004 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley —146 cases produced, 14.3% alcohol ach issue, Wine Press Northwest sends wine to two chefs with a passion for our region’s wines. The chefs are asked to match a recipe to the selected wine. Dean and Verdie Morrison established a slogan for their 1,300-case Walla Walla Valley estate operation: “Morrison Lane: Syrah... and more!” Their award-winning expressions of Italy are testament to that. It’s also a tribute to one of Dean’s mentors, cousin Gene Cluster, who died in 2007. Cluster owned a vineyard and winery in Chianti Classico. Nebbiolo, native to Piedmont, is viewed by many as Italy’s premier grape and ranked alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir on the world stage. Its wealth of tannin often serves as the base for Barolo and Barbaresco. Walla Walla’s killing freeze of 2004 led the Morrisons to McKinley Springs Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills for this Nebbiolo. It earned an “Outstanding” rating and was the top Nebbiolo in our Summer 2008 competition of Northwest Italian reds. Those judges and these Match Maker chefs praised the Morrison Lane 2004 Nebbiolo for its presentation of raspberries and cranberries, bright acidity and firm tannin structure that pairs nicely with richly flavored meat and bodes well for aging. The Morrisons began planting their vineyard in 1994 on the Powerline Road farm that’s been in Dean’s family since World War I. By 1997, the Morrisons started supplying Walla Walla wineries with grapes. Five years later, they established the winery. Morrison Lane first made its mark with Syrah, but the 23-acre vineyard also is known for its success with varieties not often seen in the Northwest. Their list includes two other Italian grapes — Barbera and Dolcetto — as well as Carmenere, Cinsault and Counoise. Their business is deeply rooted in family. Dean shares winemaking responsiblities with Verdie. Their sons, Dan and Sean, a daughter, Dinah, and Sean’s wife, Kate, also have roles in the winery. In 2004, Dean retired from the railroad industry and the family opened their downtown tasting room inside the historic Dacres Building. Ironically, it’s in the same block as 26 Brix, previously featured as a Match Maker restaurant. Morrison Lane, 201 W. Main St., Walla Walla, WA, 99362, 509-526-0229, morrisonlane.com.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

78-83 Match Makers

12/9/08

12:25 PM

Page 80

M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Grilled Canadian Elk with Blueberry Demi-glace and Cranberry Foam Serves 4

For cranberry foam 1 ⁄4 cup granulated sugar 1 ⁄4 cup sun-dried cranberries 1 ⁄2 cup water 2 egg whites Kosher or sea salt, to taste Fresh ground black pepper, to taste

Executive chef Bryce Lamb cooks Northwest cuisine at Brix 25° with an Asian flair, an influence of his time spent in Vietnam and Hong Kong.

and coveted wines. “The original owner, Mark Wombold, was going for the whole Northwest theme,” Jackson said. “I came over about six months after the sale, and I decided we need a lot more high-end stuff, a lot more boutique, hard-to-find, highly allocated stuff. That’s when I created the Captain’s program.” Many of the established rock stars reside there, and Jackson predicts greatness for a number of upstarts in Woodinville. “Woodinville Wine Cellars just put out their Ausonius,” he said. “I hung onto that for six to eight months, and it’s drinking just killer. I brought it out and the first three people said, ‘My god, what is this? I’ve never heard of it!’ There are a lot of (Woodinville wineries) out there they’ve never heard of, like Sparkman, Gorman, Mark Ryan and Cuillin Hills. And this is a pretty wine savvy area here, so people are willing to try.” Reprints of the list take place once a month, and Jackson is given the freedom to begin selling the wine when he believes its ready to be drunk. 80

“I give certain things an extra six months in the bottle, and that’s proven to be a pretty good deal,” he said. Executive chef Bryce Lamb’s duty is to make sure the quality of his cuisine matches the quality of the wines. The Seattle native took over in October after spending the previous six years at La Fermata in nearby Bremerton. He found his career path while in college, but not at college. “I needed a job and started cooking to make ends meet,” Lamb said. “Then I dropped out of college and went to culinary school at Seattle Central Community College.” His career path led him to such Seattle landmarks at The Pink Door, Ruth’s Chris, the Cliff House in Tacoma and BlowFish. A year working in Vietnam and Hong Kong continues to influence Lamb, who returned to Seattle to open Tango, staying a couple of years before moving across the Puget Sound. “Bryce has a simple approach to food,” Jackson said. “He doesn’t want to oversauce or spice it, especially the elk and lamb shank. He’s

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

For blueberry demi-glace 1 ⁄2 cup Nebbiolo 2 tablespoons sun-dried blueberries 1 ⁄2 cup demi-glace 2 tablespoons Plugrá unsalted butter (see note below) Kosher or sea salt, to taste Fresh ground black pepper, to taste For elk 28 ounces boneless elk rib eye or tenderloin, cut into 7-ounce portions 1 1⁄2 tablespoon olive oil 3 ⁄4 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced 3 ⁄4 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced Kosher or sea salt, to taste Fresh ground black pepper, to taste

Make foam: Place sugar, cranberries and water in non-reactive saucepot, bring to a boil, then take off heat, letting cranberries steep until soft. Let mixture cool to room temperature. Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks and fold in cranberry mixture with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use. Make demi-glace: Place the Nebbiolo in sauce pan with sun-dried blueberries and reduce until almost dry. Add in demi-glace and reduce by half. Turn off heat. Add butter, salt and pepper. Set aside. Prepare elk: Fire up the grill or broiler. Rub elk steaks with olive oil and sprinkle with herbs, salt and pepper. Grill to desired temperature. Serve topped with blueberry demiglace and cranberry foam. Note: Plugrá is a European style butter made by Keller's Creamery that is lower in moisture and higher in butterfat than regular butter. It can be found at Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods Markets and other speciality stores. See kellerscreamery.com for more information.

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

78-83 Match Makers

12/9/08

12:27 PM

Page 81

M AT C H M A K E R S adding new things of his own, like instead of doing potatoes, he’ll add celery root or put kale on the plate. It’s a little Asian flair from him spending time in Vietnam and Hong Kong. You can see it in the side dishes, but it’s all based around the flavors of the Northwest.” That theme showed in the Match Maker pairing with the Morrison Lane 2004 Nebbiolo from the Columbia Valley. “We were thinking Italian/Old World and lamb, but as soon as I opened the bottle and brought the glass to my nose, I thought, ‘Canadian elk,’ ” Jackson said. “We both decided it as a perfect pairing. The wine has an Old World feel with a bit of gaminess to it, and there’s this underlying blueberry hint. And there’s a blueberry demiglace that we serve with the elk. When I tasted them together, I didn’t think the food was the star, and I didn’t think the wine was the star, so in my opin-

ion, it was a well-married food pairing.” The Morrison Lane 2004 Nebbiolo also casts out aromas of cranberry, crushed leaf and a bit of earthiness, which carry on into flavors of whole berry cranberry sauce, along with great cranberry acidity and a blueberry finish. Lamb’s Canadian Elk with Blueberry Demiglace and Cranberry Foam appears nightly on the fall/winter menu, which is available seven days a week. Brix 25°, 7707 Pioneer Way, Gig Harbor, WA, 98335, (253) 858-6626, harborbrix.com.

NECTAR RESTAUR ANT AND WINE BAR M O S C O W, I D A H O

THERE’S A YOUNG BUZZ IN THE

Nikki Woodland is the executive chef and co-owner of Nectar Restaurant and Wine Bar.

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

Palouse food and wine community, and the story starts with beekeeping. In April 2007, Nikki Woodland and her husband, Brett, opened their doors at Nectar Restaurant and Wine Bar in the college town of Moscow, Idaho. And although she spent several years working in Portland and Spokane, the move wasn’t farfetched for the Washington State University grad. “We came down here so my husband could join his family business, which is beekeeping,” she said. “But I could never get away from the food, so I ended up doing this.” They found an immediate following that continues to thrive as they draw from the University of Idaho, which is just a few blocks away, and WSU. “With both universities and a lot of professors and graduate students, there was a market for an upscale restaurant, especially one that focused on wine,” Nikki said. “WSU has the enology program, so there’s a huge market of people into highend wines and food.” The heavy influence of regional and local products seems to help offset the economic woes felt across the globe. “We haven’t lost any business yet,” Nikki said. “I think being in a small university town we’re a little bit sheltered from that. And locals want to support local business and local products.” Brett added, “Professors have pretty secure jobs and being in small towns there are not a lot of choices for them.” Among the local items at Nectar are those from Woodland Apiaries, produced in nearby Lewiston. The bee theme appears in the name, and Nectar’s logo cleverly features a bee with a trailing corkscrew, as opposed to a stinger. “We try to incorporate the honey into as many recipes as possible,” she said.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

78-83 Match Makers

12/9/08

12:28 PM

Page 82

M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Nebbiolo-Braised Beef Cheeks

come up the sides of the cheeks, but not cover them. Submerge thyme, parley, and bay leaf in braise. Cover loosely with foil and place in oven, turning cheeks every two hours, for 8-12 hours, until cheeks are tender enough to cut easily with a fork, but not falling apart. Remove the beef cheeks from the braising liquid and place in a large ziplock bag, set aside. Strain the remaining contents of the pan, reserving the liquid. Discard the spent herbs and vegetables. Strain the liquid through cheese cloth or a fine chinoise. Salt 11⁄2 cups of the braising liquid to taste and add to the ziplock bag with beef cheeks. Put in the refrigerator to store overnight. Reduce the remaining liquid in a small stockpot, skimming any impurities that collect at the surface, leaving about two-thirds of a cup of sauce. Refrigerate until ready to use. Before serving, reheat the sauce in a pan. Also, reheat the beef cheeks by putting in an oven-safe pan, just big enough to hold cheeks and liquid. Cover with aluminum foil and heat at 250°F for 30 minutes. Spoon a bit of sauce directly onto beef cheeks and serve.

Serves 4

These should be made at least a day in advance, resting in braising liquid. 4 beef cheeks, trimmed, about 8 oz. each Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper 3 tablespoons canola oil 1 carrot, quartered 1 celery stalk, quartered 1 small onion, quartered 2 garlic cloves, halved 1 tablespoon tomato paste 8 cups Nebbiolo 4 cups veal stock 2 sprigs fresh thyme 5 parsley stems 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh

Preheat oven to 250°F. Salt and pepper beef cheeks. Heat the oil over medium high heat in a heavy stock pot. Add beef cheeks and brown on all sides. Remove the cheeks from the pot, discarding all but one tablespoon of oil. Reduce heat to medium, and add carrot, celery, onion and garlic to the remaining oil. Cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 8-10 minutes. Add tomato paste, and cook for 1 minute. Add wine and cook until reduced by a third. Add veal stock, bring to a simmer and reduce by a third. Transfer contents of pot and beef cheeks into an ovenproof vessel that will hold beef cheeks, vegetables, and braising liquid snugly. The liquid should And the Woodlands found a sweet spot with regional wines, particularly those from Walla Walla. “We definitely wanted to focus on Northwest wines, including the increasing number of Idaho wines,” Brett said. “And from a business standpoint, Walla Walla is so popular. It’s what people are looking for, it’s what they are interested in and what they are asking about.” He doesn’t shy away from featuring the blossoming industry surrounding Nectar. “When we run flights of Idaho or the upstart Pullman wineries, people are definitely interested in trying them,” he said. “For the most part, 82

If you’d like the recipes for the Parsnip Risotto, Chard, Carrots and Parsnips that accompany the beef cheeks in the photo opposite, please visit our website at: winepressnw.com/pairing

the price point is quite a bit less than Walla Walla, and the wines are increasing in quality, so it’s been a pretty easy sell because people aren’t used to Idaho wines and want to support local business, too.” Familiarity with their market and the industry has been critical for the Woodlands. Nikki, 30, grew up in Spokane, graduated first from WSU’s hotel and restaurant administration program, then the Western Culinary Institute in Portland. Along the way, she worked at Luna and Mizuna in Spokane, as well as the Ross Island Grocery and Cafe in Portland. Her inspiration? “I loved cooking at home and

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

cooking for my friends and family and entertaining,” she said. “I couldn’t imagine ever doing anything else.” It will be some time before Nikki will return to Nectar’s cozy kitchen full-time, though. She and Brett, 32, are expecting their first child, a boy, in 2009, so they hired longtime friend Nikiforos Pitsilionis. “He used to work at the French Laundry (in Napa), and his family has owned a restaurant in Alaska his whole life, so I gave the duties of the kitchen to him,” she said. “We plan the menu together, and I take care of all the catering.” In addition to the bustling catering business, Nikki also is an instructor. Terra Blanca Estate Winery on Red Mountain played host to her first cooking class. “It was a fun group of 15 people, and I really enjoyed it,” she said. The Woodlands dream for their own restaurant came to life when they spotted a former travel agency office next to a historic downtown firehouse. They gutted the office themselves and transformed it into a wine bar and boutique restaurant with 13 tables, tackling the demolition and performing most of the remodeling themselves. And they view the renovation of the recently purchased 60-year-old home as their hobby. “It’s a 15-minute walk to work, and that’s when we walk the dog,” she said. “If we drive, it’s a couple of minutes. It’s nice living in a small town.” That small-town feel comes across on the menu in subtle fashion with comfort food items such as meatloaf and their remarkable Baked Macaroni and Cheese. “A lot of farmers are not used to high-priced food, so we try to keep it reasonable and try to attract students, too. The Mac and Cheese is $9, and steak is $25,” she said. That meatloaf soon became a local favorite. “It’s wrapped with pancetta, covered with a chipotle barbecue glaze and served with local carrots and

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

78-83 Match Makers

12/9/08

12:31 PM

Page 83

M AT C H M A K E R S potatoes,” Nikki said. “I like to change the menu, and I was bored with the meatloaf. When the word got out, the town let me know that they wanted the meatloaf to stay on the menu. I listened, and the meatloaf will always be a staple at Nectar.” For the Match Maker assignment, the Woodlands and Pitsilionis, 34, — a native of Greece — blended Walla Walla wine with nearby products while keeping an eye on Old World traditions. “I was thinking Nebbiolo and Piedmont, so I went with an Italianstyle braised meat and risotto,” Pitsilionis said. “Traditionally, the Italians will often braise it in Barolo or Barbaresco or an inexpensive wine, but the idea is not that different from a Beef Bourgogne that the Burgundians would do. “For me, with wine pairings, I will think in terms of cultural and traditional associations and regional associations rather than tasting profiles,” he added. “And rather than doing a white truffle risotto with Barolo, which works great in that context, we’ve been doing a lot of root vegetables lately, so we went with a parsnip risotto.” The centerpiece of the entrée is the beef cheeks, a first-time ingredient for a Match Maker project. They come from Eaton Natural Beef in Colton, Wash., which is near Pullman. “It’s an inexpensive cut and takes a bit of time and care, but ultimately it yields a satisfying product,” Pitsilionis said. Nikki pointed out, “The nice acidity in this Nebbiolo balances the risotto, which is so rich and cuts right through the nice, fatty parts of the meat.”

Nectar’s Nebbiolo Braised Beef Cheeks are paired with Morrison Lane’s 2004 Nebbiolo.

Nectar Restaurant and Wine Bar, 105 W. Sixth St., Moscow, ID, 83843, 208-882-5914, moscownectar.com.ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s man-

aging editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is at: WineCountryCreations.com

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/8/08

6:38 PM

Page 84

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

2:49 PM

Page 85

WINE COUNTRY: PROSSER

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:31 AM

Page 86

WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY

Open 11-5 daily March through December Other times by appointment 11975 Smithfield Road • Dallas, OR 800-884-1927 • www.vanduzer.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

12/11/08

10:37 AM

Page 87

WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER

Featuring... Outstanding Washington Wines

Visit our winery overlooking the Columbia!

18 B Street S.E., Quincy,WA 98848

3400 10th St. SE, East Wenatchee, WA 98802

(509) 787-3714

509-886-4596

- 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Wine Press Northwest

Open Thurs., Fri., & Sat. 12-5 & holiday weekends Tours by appointment www.martinscottwinery.com chris.scott@martinscottwinery.com

"Outstanding Washington Wine List Award" • Lunch: Mon. - Fri. 11 am - 2 pm • Dinner: Wed. - Sat. Open at 6 pm (Dinner reservations recommended) www.idlehourcafe.com

Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection. Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA

509-548-1213

509-662-5013

www.viscontis.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

88-103 Recent Releases

12/11/08

WINE REVIEWS

11:47 AM

Page 88

recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by the magazine’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Jessica Munnell, a winemaker formerly at Chateau Ste. Michelle; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated. Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

one equals one of the Cabs that annually has helped define this valley and this state. JeanFrançois Pellet coaxes plums, cherries, strawberry fruit leather, French vanilla, black pepper and crushed walnuts out of the aromas. The entry to the palate is hedonistic with huge jammy berries, plum sauce and rich dark chocolate. Edgy tannins merely build up momentum to a finish of Cherry Crisp dessert, topped with toasted oats and brown sugar. Here is a keepsake from a historic vintage.

Silver Lake Winery 2006 Roza Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 1,192 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

Excellent. A lighter and food-friendly expression

of Cab, Jon Zimmerman dribbled in Zinfandel (8%) and Cab Franc (6%) to bring out more red tones and a bit of herbaeceousness. Black cherries, strawberry fruit leather, soon-to-bepicked blackberries, vanilla and cedar aromas direct you to juicy cherries on the attack with more strawberries and some leaf. The tannins are mellow, and the finish shows off a berry cobbler tartness. Enjoy with Italian-themed fare.

Stephenson Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 180 cases, 14.1% alc., $32

Reds Cabernet Sauvignon Bitner Vineyards 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Idaho, 200 cases, 14% alc., $24

Excellent. Some of the Snake River Valley’s old-

est vines produce the estate grapes for this smooth Cab, which is redolent with black cherries, cinnamon bark and green peppercorns. Boysenberry and black cherry flavors transition into a finish of warm Belgian chocolate.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 34,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $18

Excellent. Indeed, there is Indian Wells fruit from

the Wahluke Slope, but there are also contributions from Jones and Cold Creek, as well as a bit of Syrah (9%). Aromas of cherry cola, cedar and earth carry onto the palate. It’s full-flavored and full-bodied with black cherries and savory notes with a nice smooth finish of blackberries. This is just the second vintage done in this “Indian Wells” style, which bodes well for the future. Suggested fare includes veal, duck, stuffed peppers or chocolate.

Columbia Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 14,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Outstanding! The transition from retired great David Lake to Kerry Norton began with this vintage, and the reins appear to be in adept hands. Bing cherry, blackberry and green tea accents blend in with some French oak in the aromas. There’s even less oak influence on the palate where cherries and plums reign supreme with sweet candy in the midpalate. Lean tannins and a pinch of sage bode very well for a grilled tri-tip, prime rib or spaghetti Bolognese.

Four Lakes Chelan Winery

Excellent. This Walla Walla winery reached into

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

University of Washington are paying dividends at this joint venture in Manson, Wash., with his father. Sweet blackberries, cassis, cedar, mint and alfalfa notes explode on the palate in a smooth and tasty fashion while oak remains wafting just under the surface.

Windy Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills, Inland Desert in Benton City and Wooded Island in Pasco for this 100% Cab. Its time surrounded by 100% American oak shows complex tones of sweet tobacco and dark chocolate along with strawberry fruit leather, dark cherries, green olives, graphite, menthol and black pepper. Rich plum, boysenberry and Dr Pepper flavors meld with chocolaty smooth tannins on the midpalate with a finish of blue SweeTart candy.

Kestrel Vintners

Tamarack Cellars

2004 Signature Edition Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 12.5% alc., $24

Excellent. Karl Koester’s chemistry classes at the

Yakima Valley, 152 cases, 13.8% alc., $60

Outstanding! Flint Nelson takes his time with bot-

tling the fruit from Kestrel View Estate Vineyard, a Roza Hills site planted in 1972. And patience was rewarded. The entire package pops from the start with nice chocolaty oak, black cherry, cassis, raspberry and tobacco leaf aromas. In the mouth, it’s supple and smooth with ripe cherry and brambleberry flavors, and then some green tea tannin in the finish.

Maryhill Winery 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 858 cases, 14.4% alc., $36

Excellent. A product of Eagle Ranch (47%), Conner-Lee (32%), Aldercreek (16%) and Gunkel provides a nose of deep black cherries laced with chocolate, saddle leather, vanilla bean and tea. It’s more of the same in the very delicious mouth, where youthful tannins take over through a finish of cinnamon toast with raisins.

Pepper Bridge Winery

Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.4% alc., $32

Recommended. There’s an A-frame of new French oak lording over, but there’s a basket of ripe black cherries, boysenberries and plums, too, with a bold structure, good acidity and a sip of coffee in the finish. This won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but those who fancy this style will be quite fond.

The Magnificent Wine Co. 2006 The Original Cab Columbia Valley, 890 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Outstanding! This pretty good company gathered Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla’s Spofford Station and Arbor Crest’s holdings on the Wahluke Slope, then made the wine in Mattawa for this recognizable label created by Charles Smith. The results are easy to spot, too, starting with aromas of blueberries, boysenberry syrup, black cherries, black olives, cedar, green peppercorns and espresso. It’s creamy and juicy on the balanced palate with black cherries, a rich Belgium chocolate midpalate and sweet yet sturdy tannins.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Three Rivers Winery

Walla Walla Valley, 400 cases, 13.9% alc., $55

2006 Minnick Hills Cabernet Sauvignon

Outstanding! Impeccable fruit, expressive oak

Walla Walla Valley, 135 cases, 13.8% alc., $39

and a skilled winemaker who knows Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards better than any-

Excellent. This vineyard in the northeast part of

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

the valley plays a supporting role in many of W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

1:41 PM

Page 89

recent releases this valley’s well-known wines, and Holly Turner gives it the spotlight here. Hints of plums, cranberries, dried Montmorency cherries and Boylan’s Natural Cane Cola bubble up from the glass. It’s plum jam on the palate with cherry tomato acidity on the midpalate, sturdy tannins and a bit of crushed leaf for complexity. A fitting tribute would be pairing this with a plate of spaghetti and meatballs using a sauce from the late Paul Newman’s line.

Trust Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 180 cases, 13.7% alc., $36

Outstanding! What an all-star cast of vineyards for

your first vintage of Cab. Va Piano, Champoux and Lewis contribute the Cab, while Pepper Bridge Merlot provided the backup (25%). The final production shows aromas of blackberries, Bing cherries, canned plums, a pinch of mint and black pepper. Lightly toasted oak doesn’t get in the way of the layers of flavors, leading with blackberries and black cherry cola on the midpalate. Subtle tannins and smooth chocolate as the curtain dropes make this delicious and easy drinking.

Waterbrook Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 2,982 cases, 13.7% alc., $22

Recommended. This oak-driven Cab comes from

Blackrock, Red Mountain, StoneTree and Oasis

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Farms vineyards. It’s filled with black cherries, plums and marionberries, framed sturdy tannins and good acidity, and finished by coffee beans.

Pinot Noir

WINE REVIEWS

Ankeny Vineyard 2006 Hershy’s Red Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 781 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Excellent. The Olexas craft this each year as a

Anam Cara Cellars 2006 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 700 cases, 15% alc., $33

Excellent. This Newberg, Ore., operation must be

a quick study because these vines were no more than 5 years old, and yet, the expression is extreme. Blackberry, boysenberry, cranberry sauce, mocha, bay rum, smoke and crushed leaf accents only begin to describe the nose. Juicy brambleberries hold court on the palate with racy acidity, chocolaty tannins and espresso with tobacco in the warm finish.

Anam Cara Cellars 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir

tribute to their lovable chocolate Lab, and its light, fruit punch approach makes it easy to lap up. Light raspberries, plums, strawberry freezer jam, Rainier cherries, crushed herbs and whiff of smoke will make this a faithful companion for grilled salmon.

Ankeny Vineyard 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 312 cases, 13.2% alc., $32

Excellent. Joe Olexa planted his 35-acre Salem,

Ore., vineyard in 1980, and he shows his stuff with this reserve style that promises hints of blackberry, plums, toasted oak and allspice and delivers the same with a structure of acidity over tannin that bodes well for aging.

Chehalem Mountains, 280 cases, 15% alc., $45

Arcane Cellars

Outstanding! The winery gets its name from the Celtic phrase “friend of my soul,” and those choosing to share this wine will make friends. The Nicholases cropped this down to 1.5 tons per acre, and the elegant use of French oak combine for accents of sarsaparilla and orange pekoe tea to fill the gaps behind strawberry and plum jam aromas. Flavors of black cherry and more plums, a juicy midpalate and chocolaty tannins make for easy drinking.

2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 105 cases, 14.5% alc., $32

Outstanding! Jason Silva and this fresh winery along the banks of the Willamette River near Salem continue to impress. Kelly Vineyard in the Dundee Hills supplied the fruit for aromas of pie cherries, allspice, cola, vanilla, spearmint and light smoke from French oak. On the palate, it’s elegant rather than powerful with juicy strawberries and Rainier cherries for nice sweetness and

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

WINE REVIEWS

1:42 PM

Page 90

recent releases

a spoonful of food-friendly acidity. Suggested pairings include halibut, salmon or sturgeon and dishes featuring wild mushrooms.

Chateau Fair Le Pont

Dobbes Family Estate

2006 Milbrandt Vineyards Pinot Noir

2005 Griffin’s Cuvée Pinot Noir

Washington, 300 cases, 13.6% alc., $30

Willamette Valley, 279 cases, 13.8% alc., $42

Biggio-Hamina Cellars

Excellent. Those who don’t believe in Pinot Noir

2007 Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir

from Washington haven’t paid attention to this Wenatchee winery. Here marks the fourth straight vintage we’ve enjoyed of this wine off Evergreen Vineyard near George. Light cherry, strawberries, raspberries, cloves, milk chocolate and caramel popcorn aromas pave the way for rich and tasty flavors from more raspberries and cherries. The fruit has the staying power to the end.

Dundee Hills, 117 cases, 12.5% alc., $36

Recommended. Todd Hamina and wife Caroline

Biggio are off to a nice start at their eponymous new winery, and they’ve chosen to rely on screwcaps for their debut of nouveau style wines. Strawberry, cherry cola, cedar and pink peppercorn aromas spill into a delicate glass of raspberries, pie cherries and red licorice that showcases food-friendly acidity and finished by white strawberries and light toast.

Dobbes Family Estate 2006 Grande Assemblage Cuvée Pinot Noir

Biggio-Hamina Cellars

Oregon, 1,912 cases, 14.5% alc., $26

2007 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir

Excellent. Grapes from throughout the Willamette

McMinnville, 103 cases, 12.5% alc., $36

Recommended. Todd Hamina knows this fruit better

than nearly anyone because he served as winemaker at this estate vineyard for Maysara. Hamina took the components and assembled a lighter-styled Pint Noir with notes of crushed strawberries, cherry juice and root beer.

Valley make their way into this entry-level, lipsmacking and unmistakable Pinot Noir by Joe Dobbes. Strawberry candy, blueberries, leather, violets and crushed sage fill in around the base of blackberries. Subdued oak, good acidity and a near absence of tannin make this balanced, food-friendly and delicious.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Excellent. Joe Dobbes names this annual release

after his son, and it gathers grapes from Ford, Amity Hill and Quailhurst vineyards for a cherry bomb of a Pinot Noir that includes notes of alfalfa, allspice, leather, cedar and ageworthy acidity.

Dobbes Family Estate 2006 Meyer Vineyard Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 174 cases, 14.4% alc., $65

Outstanding! It can be argued that this is Joe Dobbes’ top effort, and it comes from estate fruit of Lemelson Vineyards. There’s a shopping bag of strawberry nuances, yet there’s complexity from notes of pie cherries, peaches, violets, vanilla, a bit of crushed leaf and lavender tea. It’s mostly strawberries in the mouth, joined by raspberries and pie cherries in a smooth and velvety style. It’s just wonderful stuff, and its red-toned fruit is typical of Dundee Hills terroir.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

1:42 PM

Page 91

recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Kestrel Vintners

Redhawk Vineyard & Winery

NV 6th Edition Lady in Red

2007 Grateful Red Pinot Noir

Columbia Valley, 9,430 cases, 13.6% alc., $15

Willamette Valley, 2,000 cases, 13.1% alc., $14

Outstanding! A college marketing class came up

Excellent. Listing a Pinot Noir of such quality in this price category is rare, so folks should indeed by grateful to John & Betty Pataccoli, the new owners of this Salem, Ore., winery. Inviting aromas of black cherry candy and dried strawberries are joined by plums, vanilla and cedar notes. It’s big on boysenberries and raspberries on the palate with ample acidity and low alcohol that should combine to help this age better than most 70s rock bands.

with the retro pin-up girl campaign for the label, but it’s winemaker Flint Nelson and the value he creates that makes this so attractive. He blends Cabernet Sauvignon (51%), Merlot (34%), Syrah (11%), Cab Franc (3%) and Sangiovese from the 2004 and 2005 vintages for a chocolaty, cherry and herbal drink prettied up by nice acidity and zesty tannins. Recommended fare includes grilled spare ribs with a cherry cola glaze, a recipe available on the winery’s Web site.

Northwest Cellars 2005 Merlot Yakima Valley, 3,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $15.

Recommended. Bob Delf’s brand gain attention

first for providing personalized labels, but the wine in the bottle is serious work. The use of Syrah (13%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (12%) during blending creates a profile of black cherries, plums, black walnuts, nice acidity and a bit of warmth in the finish. And this review bottle comes with Richard Duval’s picture-perfect shot of the Seattle skyline with Pier 66 and Anthony’s HomePort.

Saint Laurent Estate Winery 2006 Lucky Red Wahluke Slope, 1,087 cases, 14.1% alc., $15

Recommended. Merlot forms the base of this

easy-drinking blend, which is rounded out by Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Syrah (13%). Black cherries, dried plums, huckleberries, cedar and toasted oak notes run across the firm tannins.

Silver Lake Winery 2006 Cask Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 1,661 cases, 13.8% alc., $12

Excellent. This estate Roza Hills wine includes

Dobbes Family Estate

Elk Cove Vineyards

2006 Nuestro Sueño Vineyard Pinot Noir

2006 30th Anniversary Cuvée Reserve Pinot Noir

Eola-Amity Hills, 202 cases, 14.5% alc., $65

Excellent. The Symonettes named their Van

Willamette Valley, 180 cases, 14.9% alc., $100

Duzer Corridor vineyard “Our Dream” in Spanish, and part of their hopes were likely achieved when Joe Dobbes selected their site as one of his three vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs. It’s a smooth berry medley with blueberry, raspberry and marionberry notes along side Rainier cherries and rich oak influence with leaf chewing tobacco.

Excellent. The final cut for this special bottling

Dobbes Family Estate 2006 Quailhurst Vineyard Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 227 cases, 13.08% alc., $65

Excellent. Jory soils on this site owned by

Alzheimer’s research physician Marvin Hausman paved the way for a supple Pinot Noir that features blueberry, mint, juniper, cinnamon and black olive aromas, followed by juicy flavors of cherries and chocolate.

Dobbes Family Estate 2006 Skipper’s Cuvée Pinot Noir Rogue Valley, 202 cases, 13.5% alc., $38

Excellent. Named after Joe Dobbes’ daughter, it’s

equally as good as that named after her brother. She waves you in with aromatics that include Rainier cherries, raspberries, cranberries, woodruff and clove gum. It carries with it the silky texture of a Pinot Noir with more Rainier cherries, plums and pie cherry acidity. There are no highs and no lows here, which relied on fruit from Fortmiller Vineyard. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

came down to nine barrels from various vineyards that were cropped to 2 tons per acre, and the care by the Campbells shows in the concentration. Pomegranates, cranberries, homemade canned plum aromas are joined by vanilla bean and browned popcorn tones from French oak barrels. Very flavorful plums spill out, along with juicy blueberry acidity that overwhelms the tannins, yielding to a milk chocolate finish.

Elk Cove Vineyards 2006 Roosevelt Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 240 cases, 14.9% alc., $75

Excellent. The Campbells cropped this 4-acre

site overlooking Williams Canyon to 1.6 tons per acre, showcasing the 14-year-old vines on Willakenzie soils. Complex aromas of strawberries, cedar, citrus and boysenberries wave along flavors of more ripe strawberries and pie cherries. Bright acidity allows the fruit to hang alongside smooth tannins and a finish of baker’s chocolate.

Elk Cove Vineyards 2006 Windhill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 490 cases, 14.9% alc., $48

Outstanding! Own-rooted Pommard clone vines planted in 1974 on Laurelwood soil have allowed the Campbells to create single-vineyard

Merlot (19%), and the package opens with aromas of strawberry jam, cherries, mint and Timothy hay. On the straight-forward palate are more black cherries, a bit of alfalfa, soft tannins and a Hershey’s Kiss in the finish.

Silver Lake Winery 2006 Cask Cab-Merlot Rattlesnake Hills, 1,195 cases, 13.4% alc., $10

Recommended. This easy-going, everyday wine

is a 60/40 blend with notes of rich black cherries, heavy toast, moist earth and pomegranate tartness with tannins that build but don’t pile over the top. Suggested fare includes Salisbury steak or puttanesca.

Silver Lake Winery 2006 Cask Syrah Rattlesnake Hills, 1,484 cases, 13.5% alc., $12

Recommended. Bargains are becoming increas-

ing difficult to find in the rapidly expanding Woodinville wine scene, but this “cask” line offers nice value for tasting room visitors. Roza Hills fruit exhibits notes of black cherries, bittersweet chocolate, earth, leather and bacon with good acidity and tannins a bit on the gritty side. wine from this site since 1979, and Pinot Noir doesn’t get much better than this. The spotlight is on black cherry and strawberry notes with light chocolate and red peppercorn tones. It’s a rather flawless drink with a juicy and round blue fruit structure framed by bright tannins and a pleasing finish of baker’s chocolate.

Erath Winery 2006 Estate Selection Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 8,140 cases, 13.5% alc., $36

Excellent. A blend that leads with top barrels from

the Knight’s Gambit and Prince Hill blocks in volcanic Jory soils produces a meritorious bottle that opens with dusty pie cherry, milk chocolate, leaf tobacco and green peppercorn aromas. Very pleasing is the easy drinking palate with cherry pie juice and Milk Duds, sweet tannins and tremendous acidity.

Erath Winery 2005 Leland Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 550 cases, 13% alc., $40

Outstanding! The Webers’ windward site near Oregon City was planted in 1982, and Erath has grabbed all this fruit since 1987. Gary Horner turned these Pommard clone grapes into a terrific Pinot Noir that’s enjoyable while standing up at a party or sitting down at the dinner table. Sweet oak aromas are joined by pomegranates, red currants, raspberries and some crushed herbs. More of the same fruit is accessible on the palate with nice richness. The oak doesn’t interfere and fruity acidity rises to the occasion with just a bit of tannin grip.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

WINE REVIEWS

1:43 PM

recent releases

Erath Winery 2006 Pinot Noir Oregon, 82,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

Outstanding! Perhaps the hallmark of a stellar vintage in Oregon is the ability to craft remarkable Pinot Noir on a large scale without charging high prices. This bottling by Gary Horner — which taps into the Umpqua Valley for 10% — serves as such an ambassador, welcoming all with classic hints of strawberries, cola, vanilla, orange oil, truffles and new harness leather. Bright plums and Bing cherry flavors create a charming palate. The oak influence is skillfully integrated, and mouthwatering acidity will lend this wine to pork loin and lamb chops.

Erath Winery 2006 Prince Hill Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 2,079 cases, 13.5% alc., $45

Outstanding! Gary Horner produces two vineyard-

designate Pinot Noirs for this Ste. Michelle property, and this style is youthful with dark fruit and French oak tones. Ripe strawberries, black currants and cherries blend with hints of forest and cinnamon in the nose. Inside it is focused on delicious cherries and malt chocolate tannins. The

Page 92

rich midpalate gives way to pie cherry acidity. Cellar for five to eight years or enjoy this in the meantime with a slow-cooked pot roast.

Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery

are joined by spicy cherry and cranberries. It’s powerful on the entry with blackberries, coffee liqueur and celery leaf, then there’s a plushness with chocolaty tannins, followed by big acidity.

2006 Fats Johnson Pinot Noir

Left Coast Cellars

Okanagan Valley, 13% alc., 4,900 cases, $19 CDN

2005 Latitude 45 Estate Pinot Noir

Outstanding! This line is among the Mission Hill

Willamette Valley, 820 cases, 14.3% alc, $34

Family Estate empire, and while some of these labels are a bit homespun, the winemaking is straight-forward, true to the variety and priced reasonably. There’s little doubt that it is Pinot Noir with aromas of strawberries, cranberries, pie cherries, violets and a whisper of toasted oak. Suave and layered best describe the palate. It’s filled with strawberries and dried cherries, bound together by a juicy midpalate and velvety tannins, with freshly brewed drip coffee in the finish.

Excellent. The vineyard near Rickreall, Ore., gets

Kramer Vineyards

Left Coast Cellars

2004 Barrel Select Pinot Noir

2005 Suzanne’s Estate Reserve Pinot Noir

Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 14.7% alc., $25

Willamette Valley, 530 cases, 14.4% alc., $40

Excellent. The Kramers in Gaston, Ore., employ

Recommended. Dark tone aromas of black cher-

big oak and build this for cellaring, yet it’s showing nicely at this point. Hints of mint, tobacco, coffee, brown sugar and bubble gum powder

ries, cola, root beer, leather and toast evolve into red fruit on the palate with pie cherries and pomegranate.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

its name because it’s dissected by the 45th parallel. Oak influences fill the nostrils with hints of black pepper, crushed walnuts, coffee and Beechnut chewing tobacco, joined by pie cherries. On the palate, it’s more akin to a Northwest Pinot Noir with racy red fruit of Montmorency cherries and white strawberries with their acidity, and a slight leafiness then oak-inspired vanilla show in the finish.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

1:43 PM

Page 93

recent releases Maysara Winery 2006 Jamsheed Pinot Noir McMinnville, 3,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $25

Outstanding! Biodynamic fruit from various blocks around the picturesque Momtazi estate vineyard, very little new oak and a cork-free enclosure make for a bright and fresh Pinot Noir. Aromas of plum sauce, sun-dried tomatoes, crushed leaf and green peppercorns turn into crisp flavors to raspberries and President plums right off the tree. A splash Dr Pepper in the farewell seems a fitting toast to a Persian king.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Five Vineyards Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 5,500 cases, 12.5% alc., $19 CDN

Recommended. One of the finest vintages east of

ries, plums and cherries dusted with bittersweet chocolate, black olives and coffee only begin to describe the total presentation. The silky texture and delicious balance lead into a finish of more strawberries with a bit of the leaf.

Redhawk Vineyards & Winery 2006 Pataccoli Family Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills, 102 cases, 14.8% alc., $35

Excellent. Estate fruit from 30-year-old Pommard

clones spent 16 months within French oak, a third of it new barrels. The pride shows with aromas of black cherries, rhubarb and a just a hint of vanilla bean. It’s big and bold on the palate with pleasing black cherries, a richness on the midpalate of plums and chocolate, acidity over tannins and some sweet boysenberries in the finish. Enjoy this alongside a Spanishinspired stew spiced up by toasted paprika.

WINE REVIEWS

Montalieu, one of the Northwest’s top hired guns, brandishes his weaponry with the entrylevel release from the Blacks’ 110-acre site. Spicy raspberries, rose hips, moist earth, creamy black cherries and chalkboard dust aromas lead into a jammy entry of mouth-coating black cherry richness. A fanciful squirt of chokecherry adds brightness and complexity to the midpalate while showcasing the acid balance to pair deliciously with a holiday serving of turkey breast and cranberries.

The Four Graces 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 1,377 cases, 14.2% alc., $42

Recommended. A blend of four clones and time

spent in mostly new French oak produced a smooth and stylish release with hallmarks of purple fruit, cherry fruit leather, milk chocolate and pleasing acidity.

the Cascades allows for notes of blueberries, saddle leather, warm oak and pleasing acidity to make one of the best valued Pinot Noirs in B.C.

Redhawk Vineyards & Winery

Mission Hill Family Estate

2006 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir

WillaKenzie Estate

Willamette Valley, 205 cases, 14.4% alc., $30

2006 Pinot Noir

Excellent. The vintner at this 20-year-old winery in

Willamette Valley, 7,694 cases, 14.2% alc., $25

2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 2,400 cases, 13.0% alc., $30 CDN

Outstanding! John Simes achieves perfect bal-

ance from a historic vintage in B.C. by sourcing Pinot Noir from warmer sites near Oliver and cooler plots near Kelowna, and the 14 months in French barrels doesn’t overdress it. Black cherry and milk chocolate aromas carry right into the palate with firm acidity from a midpalate of boysenberry and pie cherry accents. The tannin structure is one without edges, making this a remarkably versatile Pinot Noir.

Naramata Vineyards 2006 Reserve Cuvée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 183 cases, 14.5% alc., $47

Recommended. The estate Prosperity and

Abundance vineyards come together for this rich and ripe drink that’s loaded with jammy brambleberry tones, crushed herbs and spices, ample acidity and background tannins to pair with lamb, duck or marbled meats.

Phelps Creek Vineyards 2007 Le Petit Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge, 420 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Outstanding! Rich Cushman continues to make his mark in his hometown of Hood River, Ore. This nouveau Pinot Noir is done with partial carbonic maceration, which creates the fruit punch feel. Notes of strawberry candy, blueber-

Salem, Ore., now is John Pataccoli, who bought the property in 2005. He sourced from several vineyards for a richer-style Pinot Noir that kicks off and sails through with black cherry notes with plenty of black fruit and vanilla in support. Cedar, green peppercorns and chocolate tannins arrive midstream with blueberry acidity.

The Four Graces 2005 Black Family Estate Pinot Noir

Excellent. From this breathtaking and environ-

mentally conscious operation in Yamhill, Ore., comes a Pinot Noir built for any occasion. Aromas include white strawberry, teriyaki, citrus, baked apple, crushed walnuts and celery leaf. A juicy entry features complex notes of raspberries, rhubarb, more apples and nuts, pie cherry tartness and a pinch of pink peppercorns in the finish. Watch this achieve greatness in 2-

Dundee Hills, 200 cases, 14.5% alc., $75

Outstanding! Steve and Paula Black named their young Dundee operation after their four blondhaired daughters, and consulting winemaker Laurent Montalieu ensures their flagship wine is a headturner. Decadent aromas of plums, black cherries, blackberries, pencil shavings, forest floor, chocolate, vanilla and leather help describe the alluring perfume. More blackberries and plums fill the flavor profile within its easy-going and fruit-forward structure. Just a tug of tannin on the finish and perfect acidity translates into a Pinot Noir worthy of holiday fare, cellaring or enjoying in its youth.

The Four Graces 2006 Estate Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 7,400 cases, 13.9% alc., $27

Outstanding! Consulting winemaker Laurent

Climate Controlled Self-Storage rentals with 24-7 access. Dometic “Silent Cellar” wine cabinets for home storage. Unique Wine Accessories and Necessities. Steel Racks, Wood Bins, WineSafe Luggage & Lead-Free Crystal.

306 SE ASH ST. & MLK

503/231-1121 WWW.PORTLANDWINE.COM

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

12/12/08

1:34 PM

Page 94

WINE REVIEWS

recent releases

3 years. Suggested fare includes alder-planked salmon, grilled pork chops or rotisserie chicken.

Four Lakes Chelan Winery

Willamette Valley Vineyards

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.9% alc., $24

2007 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 18,000 cases, 13.0% alc., $19

Excellent. Once again, Forrest Klaffke produces

one of the Northwest’s best examples of nouveau-style Pinot Noir. Black cherries, fresh raspberries and strawberries, crushed leaf and milk chocolate notes meander throughout this young and vibrant wine that’s best enjoyed within 1-2 years of release. Pair it with grilled pork chop, turkey breast or fish.

Merlot Abacela Vineyards and Winery

2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot Excellent. In 2002, Patrick Merry of Pullman,

Outstanding! Estate fruit from the Umpqua is

Wash., began working with this site in the Frenchman Hills overlooking Royal City, and the experience shows. Plums, moist earth, cola and vanilla aromas await, but they don’t prepare you for the massive mouth feel. Boysenberry jam and licorice create a density unlike most Merlots, and one that demands rich cuts of meat.

Washington, 210 cases, 13.3% alc., $24

Excellent. This multi-faceted Wenatchee winery

helped lead the way in Washington for on-premise dining, and Doug Brazil crafted a Merlot for the new chef at the Brazils’ La Bonne Terre restaurant. Hints of red and racy cherries, pomegranate and cranberries set the table for more of the same in a round structure with depth and breadth. Sandy tannins, herbal undertones and juicy acidity will give the chef a pantry full of possibilities.

Columbia Winery 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 12,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $16

Excellent. Kerry Norton made the step up from

Merry Cellars Columbia Valley, 115 cases, 15.5% alc., $30

2005 Merlot

2700 Fourth Avenue South Seattle, WA (206) 682-7374 • (888) 682-WINE www.esquin.com

Manson, Wash., estate provides views of Dry Lake, Lake Chelan, Rose Lake and Wapato Lake — hence the name. These grapes hail from Lonesome Springs in Benton City, and Karl Koester helped them produce aromas of pie cherries, mint, marionberries and chalkboard dust among sweet oak notes of dark chocolate. On the palate, there’s sweetened plums and lovely raspberry flavors amid the juicy and luscious mouth feel with approachable tannins and a sendoff of Earl Grey tea.

Southern Oregon, 889 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Chateau Faire Le Pont

• Over 5,000 wines • Discount prices • Free local delivery • We ship UPS • Call for free mailer • Private wine lockers • Secured access • Climate controlled • Convenient location

Excellent. The tasting room on this budding

2006 Merlot

joined by Rogue Valley vineyards Alta Seca and Pheasant Hill for one of Oregon’s top Merlot offerings. Blackberries, plums and Nibs red licorice aromas are joined by hints of Nilla Wafers, roasted coffee and chocolate. There’s a big and luscious entry of plums, black cherries and wild mountain berries as the wine is full of fruit from nose to finish. The tannins, while abundant, are balanced because of that fruit, which falls into a finish of a barista’s mocha.

Experience the Northwest’s Best Wine Store

2006 Merlot

Covey Run to this Woodinville, Wash., showpiece in 2006, and he showed off his blending abilities with this quaffer that includes Malbec (10%), Barbera (4%), Petit Verdot (3%), Cab Franc (3%) and Sangiovese (2%). Cherry cobbler, coffee cake and teriyaki aromas pull you in for more flavors of ripe cherries and more coffee cake. The Italian grapes heighten the good acidity, and the tannins are there, but not overwhelming. A dribble of milk chocolate makes this enjoyable from stem to stern.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2006 Reserve Merlot Rogue Valley, 430 cases, 14.6% alc., $30

Recommended. Those looking to make a gentle

transition from white to red wine drinkers may consider this off-dry offering from this Forest Grove, Ore., operation. Cherry/rhubarb jam with hints of vanilla bean, micro greens and toast meld for a juicy, tasty, smooth and fun drink.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Nk’Mip Cellars 2005 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 3,400 cases, 14.0% alc., $20 CDN

Excellent. Randy Picton, once an assistant to

American émigré Tom Di Bello at Kelowna’s CedarCreek, continues to raise the profile of this winery owned and operated by the Osoyoos Indian Band. There’s abundant bittersweet chocolate aromas that are heavily backed by black cherries, raspberries, plums and saddle leather. Plums and blackberries take over for the oak on the palate with bright acidity and assertive but not overwhelming tannins. Try this with a Mexican molé dish.

Olympic Cellars 2005 Bacchus Vineyard Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.7% alc., $18

Outstanding! This Pasco, Wash., vineyard is well into its fourth decade of production and Port Angeles winemaker Benoit Murat shows respect to the fruit. Light oak peeks behind the notes of harvest-ready cherries and citrus peel with cinnamon and cedar aromas. Smooth cherry flavors and blueberry acidity sync up easily with the managed tannins.

Parma Ridge Vineyards 2006 Proprietor’s Reserve Merlot Snake River Valley, 96 cases, 15.2% alc., $22

Outstanding! The folks in Idaho don’t have the longest growing season, but ripeness was no issue for retired pilot Dick Dickstein this vintage. Here’s a hedonistic release that takes flight with aromas of blackberries, elderberries, root beer, eucalyptus, currants and chocolatecovered cherries. Touchdown shows a big and rich wine dense with currant jam and cordial cherries, along with pinches of oregano and lavender. There’s a sweetness without being sweet as it masterfully balances oak and alcohol. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/11/08

11:53 AM

Page 95

recent releases Pentâge Winery 2005 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 14% alc., $25 CDN

Recommended. Inviting tones of black cherries,

blueberries, oregano and toast come together on the palate in a smooth and sweet style with a grip of tannins that will pair well with a pepper steak or well-marbled T-bone.

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Reserve Merlot Southern Oregon, 94 cases, 13.5% alc., $26

Outstanding! Fortmiller Vineyard, a 2,000-foot-

elevation site in the Rogue Valley, is helping a number of Oregon winemakers gain acclaim for their Merlot offerings. Patrick Spangler hits a walk-off home run here, stepping into the batter’s box with hints of black cherries, nutmeg, milk chocolate and green peppercorn aromas. A twist of the wrist brings in a masculine drink of robust black cherries and blackberries, and the nice integration of oak brings a cheer from the crowd.

Stephenson Cellars 2005 Merlot

The flavors are rich and dark with blackberries and the seed, finished by bittersweet chocolate. Sandy tannins and decent acidity bode well for cellaring or enjoy in the present with toasted filberts and Stilton cheese or strongly flavored meat. Watch this improve over the next 5-7 years.

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2005 Umpqua Cuvée Syrah Southern Oregon, 161 cases, 14.2% alc., $19

Outstanding! The pioneering Earl Jones was one of Southern Oregon’s early leaders in Syrah, and he continues to show why. Hints at purple fruit such as huckleberries and plums are joined by strawberry and light cherry notes with cracked green peppercorn and vanilla spice from the French oak. It is smooth on the approach with dark strawberries, plum jam and blackberry fruit. Dusty chocolate underpinnings go with supple tannins and a smooth yet sinewy finish. Production was trimmed by 700 cases from the previous vintage, so call now.

Chateau Fair Le Pont

WINE REVIEWS

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2006 Syrah Wahluke Slope, 239 cases, 14.0 alc., $18

Excellent. A young Mattawa, Wash., winery

makes an early statement with this hedonistic, opulent and inky Syrah. Dense blackberry and macerated Bing cherry aromas include herbal notes of anise and lavender. Big, juicy black cherries, cola and Bosco chocolate syrup are met in the midpalate by lots of acidity and more cherry-infused tea in the finish. It’s a crowd pleaser at the moment, and it might still look like a cheerleader at the 10-year reunion.

Kestrel Vintners 2005 Kestrel View Estate Syrah Yakima Valley, 1,047 cases, 13.8% alc., $22

Recommended. Blackberries, coffee, chocolate

and cigar leaf notes receive a deep punch of tannin from the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Merlot (2%). Try this with a thick steak served with blue cheese in a cigar-friendly setting.

Kestrel Winery

2005 Milbrandt Vineyards Syrah

Washington, 250 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Washington, 140 cases, 13.9% alc., $23

2005 Winemaker Select Series Co-fermented Estate Syrah

Recommended. This Walla Walla winery selected

Excellent. The Northridge plot on the Wahluke

Yakima Valley, 150 cases, 13.8%, $40

Slope gave the building blocks for this Wenatchee winery to create a sumptuous and supple Syrah with plums, dusty black cherries and leather running throughout the oak tones.

Outstanding! From a victorious vintage comes a sensational Syrah, which Flint Nelson takes to a higher plane by the Rhône practice of adding Viognier to extract more color and aromatics. There’s plenty in the nose with blackberries, plums, Tennessee Red cedar, orange spice and leather. What awaits is a monster wine that carries blackberries, boysenberries and juice plums into the midpalate of leaf chewing tobacco, more orange notes, bold tannins then baker’s chocolate in the finish. Enjoy with a T-bone and a primo.

only Merlot from nearby Forgotten Hills, Windy Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills and Wooded Island overlooking the Columbia River in Pasco. Black cherry and plum notes, moist earth, integrated oak and a smooth structure made this easy to finish.

Dobbes Family Estate

Tamarack Cellars

Rogue Valley, 747 cases, 13.08% alc., $26

2006 Merlot

Recommended. Pleasing notes of brambleberries,

Columbia Valley, 1,456 cases, 14.28% alc., $28

black currants, black cherries, chocolate and alfalfa create a sweet entry and tart farewell that bodes well for a slab of meatloaf or a plate of spaghetti.

Outstanding! The Walla Walla wizardry of Ron

Coleman strikes again as he gathers fruit from sites in six appellations — Red Mountain’s Tapteil Vineyard leading — for a mellow and luxurious Merlot. Barrel influences of dark chocolate, allspice, black olives and pencil shavings plunge you into a berry-filling palate. Blackberries and blueberries turn jammy, propped up by bright tannins and chocolatecovered cherries in the finish.

Syrah Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2005 Estate Syrah Southern Oregon, 319 cases, 14.1% alc., $30

Recommended. Cobblestone and Cox’s Rock pro-

duced the fruit for this delicious release that broadcasts mountain berries, cracked pepper, crushed herbs and cola tones with a smooth entry, bold acidity and expressive tannins. Suggested pairings include Indian-spiced goose breast or grilled lamb kabobs with squash.

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2005 South Face Block Reserve Syrah Southern Oregon, 239 cases, 14.4% alc., $45

Recommended. On a high and pitched parcel off

Cobblestone Hill comes a densely extracted Syrah in the Côte-Rôtie style of co-fermentation with Viognier, in this case 2%. The forces combined to unleash accents of blackberries, stewed black cherries, green peppercorns, bacon smoke and a savory note of pepperoni. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2005 Grand Assemblage Cuvée Syrah

McKinley Springs Winery

Dobbes Family Estate

2005 Syrah

2005 Fortmiller Syrah

Horse Heaven Hills, 385 cases, 14.2% alc, $25

Rogue Valley, 130 cases, 14.8% alc., $45

Outstanding! The Andrews clan farms more than 800 acres of grapes for about 20 wineries, including Syncline’s James Mantone, who also made this wine. Plums, anise, violets and hints of Jolly Ranch grape candy fill the nostrils. Next comes an explosion of red berries on the palate and plums in juicy fashion. It’s a very appealing wine with its lavish structure and finish of black tea and black licorice.

Outstanding! Groundwork years ago by Joe

Dobbes for Willamette Valley Vineyards’ Griffin Creek project gave him deep knowledge for Southern Oregon’s remarkable potential with Rhône varieties, and this 2,000-foot elevation site near Talent is among the best. Black cherry, blueberry and huckleberry aromas include bacon fat, coffee, vanilla and tobacco. Unctuous describes the drink, which rewards with Chukar Cherries. Bright acidity and pleasing tannins makes the lingering blueberries pop out in the finish.

Dobbes Family Estate 2005 Sundown Vineyard Syrah Rogue Valley, 50 cases, 13.6% alc., $50

Outstanding! More wineries are making vineyard-

designate wines from Sundown, with Joe Dobbes setting the standard. A crop level of 3.25 tons per acre gave him the building blocks for this statuesque Syrah, which flexes its muscles with aromas of blueberries, blackberries, chocolate cake, rose petal and crushed leaf. The payoff begins with penetrating flavors of plump and juicy blueberries and more brambleberries. Acidity and tannin levels strike a balance, so it could maintain its posture through 2018.

Melrose Vineyards 2005 Syrah Umpqua Valley, 335 cases, 14.1% alc., $20

Outstanding! The gregarious Wayne and Deedy Parker would call this a “genuwine” example of the quality from their remarkable floodplain vineyard near Roseburg, Ore. Brambleberries, cola, tobacco, green peppercorns, gun metal and leather fill the nostrils. Inside, it’s akin to a spoonful of plum jam with juicy marionberry acidity and a scrape of vanilla bean in the finish.

Merry Cellars 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 69 cases, 14.8% alc., $42

Outstanding! Subtle usage of older French and American oak allowed Patrick Merry to provide elegance and style with fruit from this

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

WINE REVIEWS

1:44 PM

Page 96

recent releases

Frenchman Hills site. Blueberry, blackberry and lilac aromas include a slice of brownies and a spoonful of Ovaltine. On the attack, it’s loaded with more of those juicy berries and pushed along by supple tannins into a finish of coffee with cream.

Del Rio and Serenade vineyards. Classic aromas of cassis, pomegranate and rhubarb include green beans and buttered popcorn. More of the same red fruit arrives on the palate, along with black cherry cola and allspice, and tannins provide some grip at the end.

Merry Cellars

Stephenson Cellars

2006 Syrah

2005 Syrah

Washington, 172 cases, 14.8% alc., $32

Washington, 120 cases, 14.1% alc., $30

Excellent. A solid base of Syrah from Stillwater

Recommended. Little-known Wooded Island

Creek (55%) and Les Collines (42%) was cofermented with Viognier from Snipes Canyon and Underwood Mountain. The use of Hungarian and American oak dominates the nose with chocolate, tobacco, vanilla and alder smoke wrapped around cherries and raspberries. It’s fruit-focused on the palate with sweet cherries and dark strawberries on the entry, just the right grip of tannin, citrusy acidity and a finish of milk chocolate.

Vineyard, which overlooks the Columbia River north of Pasco, factors into most of this Walla Walla winery’s lineup. It accounts for 80% of this bottling, which is laden with blackberry jam, cloves, cedar, black licorice and green peppercorns. The smooth structure picks up on the midpalate with sturdy tannins.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Reserve Shiraz Okanagan Valley, 5,100 cases, 12.5% alc., $23 CDN

Recommended. Blackberry and cherry notes

include violets, toasted oak tones of chocolate and coffee, with a smooth mouthfeel and supple tannins.

Nota Bene Cellars

Tamarack Cellars 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 616 cases, 14.53% alc., $28

Excellent. It’s all Syrah, but it comes in from Destiny

Ridge (25%) in the Horse Heaven Hills, Goose Ridge (25%) and Bacchus (20%) in the Columbia Valley, Ciel du Cheval (18%) on Red Mountain, Candy Mountain (6%) and Wooded Island. Blackberries, dark chocolate and Wheat Thin cracker aromas are followed by more juicy brambleberries, mocha and black tea in the finish.

2005 Syrah

The Magnificent Wine Co.

Washington, 280 cases, 15.15% alc., $30

2006 The Originals Syrah

Recommended. Seattle winemaker Tim Narby

Columbia Valley, 2,436 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

toured Royal City (Stillwater Creek), Sunnyside (Smasne Family) and Mattawa (StoneTree) for the Syrah — the latter also contributing all of the Grenache (25%). Descriptors lead with dark brambleberries, green olives, green peppercorns and a big puff of smoke. The delectable fruit is plush, and there’s enough tannin here to keep you honest.

Outstanding! Charles Smith of K Vintners partners with Precept Brands on this his second label. It still has the black-and-white look and remains affordable. Blackberries, cherries, pomegranate, vanilla and smoky oak aromas twirl into a complex palate of blackberries, black cherries, cola and Jolly Rancher grape candy. There seemingly are no tannins to get in the way of easy enjoyment.

Olympic Cellars Winery

Malbec Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Malbec Southern Oregon, 428 cases, 13.3% alc., $25

Recommended. Boysenberry, Bing cherry, choco-

late chip cookie dough and walnut aromas are followed by a straight-forward and pleasing structure of blackberry jam, spicy cherries and mellow tannins. Suggested food pairings include grilled pork ribs.

Three Rivers Winery 2006 Malbec Columbia Valley, 320 cases, 14.1% alc., $29

Recommended. A growing number of Northwest

wineries are successfully taking this Bordeaux variety beyond its blending background. The fruit hails from Northridge on the Wahluke Slope and Sagemoor near Pasco, Wash., and gets a bump from nearby Bacchus with Cab Sauv (23%). Cherry cola, pomegranate, French vanilla and green peppercorns seem stirred into this lighter offering that strikes a smooth balance of acidity and tannins.

William Church Winery 2006 Malbec Wahluke Slope, 83 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

Outstanding! Winemaker Matt Loso tapped into 23-year-old vines from Arbor Crest Wine Cellar’s estate vineyard and produced a seamless wine for this Woodinville winery. Generous fruit aromas of Bing cherries and jammy garden berries stand above the French oak and subtle herbal accents. Strawberries and raspberries gush on the palate where assertive acidity meets green tea tannin, while maintaining its richness.

Cabernet Franc Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc

2006 Sagemoor Vineyard Syrah

Trust Cellars

Southern Oregon, 247 cases, 13.5% alc., $27

Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.9% alc., $25

2006 Syrah

Outstanding! One of the state’s most cherished

Columbia Valley, 216 cases, 14.5% alc., $28

sites gives winemaker Benoit Murat the base from which to create a remarkable wine. Telltale notes of blackberries run throughout, joined by black cherries, plum jam and chocolaty tannins and some tobacco leaf in the finish. Pair this with grilled lamb chops served with mint jelly.

Outstanding! One of the better stories in Walla Walla is how Steve Brooks quit his job at CNN and moved his family to become a winemaker. Like most journalists, he’s a quick study. This product of just his second vintage comes from Lewis, Minnick and Portteus vineyards. Our reporter’s notebook shows descriptors such as black raspberries, cherry juice, green olives, cedar, moist earth and just a breath of French oak. The structure is smooth with youthful exuberance on the midpalate with bright tannins and Red Vine licorice in the finish.

Outstanding! Earl Jones melded fruit from Pheasant Hill in the Rogue Valley with his estate in the Umpqua Valley and cast a velvet wrap of rich oak over the dark fruit tones. Black cherries, espresso and leather expand on a dense and powerful palate of more plums, oak and spice. Pomegranate acidity wins out over tannins in the finish. The Joneses enjoy this with partridge wrapped in bacon with fennel.

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Syrah Southern Oregon, 323 cases, 13.7% alc., $25

Excellent. It’s not unusual to see a Syrah co-fer-

mented with Viognier (5% in this case), yet it’s rare in the Northwest for it to also call upon a splash of Petite Sirah (2%). The combination produced aromas of strawberry jam, pomegranate, cherry fruit leather, vanilla, rosemary and cedar. Drink in hints of boysenberry jam and spicy black cherries married with sandy tannins and some Red Vines in the finish.

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Reserve Syrah Southern Oregon, 164 cases, $30, 13.0% alc.

Recommended. There are a wide variety of entry

points on this expressive wine from grapes off

William Church Winery 2006 Syrah Yakima Valley, 216 cases, 14.5 alc., $28

Excellent. A full-on Syrah blend leading with

Dineen Family Vineyard in Zillah and backed by Stillwater Creek in the Columbia Valley produced a bouquet of black cherries, vanilla bean and moist earth. It’s sweet cherries again on the entry on past the midpalate with a hint of umami and cocoa powder in the finish. The structure is smooth and rich with acidity shouting down the tannins.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Kestrel Vintners 2005 Winemaker Select Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley, 200 cases, 13.9% alc., $40

Outstanding! This might not be the most classic presentation of Cabernet Franc. In fact, the structure is so massive you consider patting the bottom of the bottle to get at the last drop. Big black fruit and oak spice aromas transcend into bold flavors of blackberries and plums.

Merry Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 44 cases, 14.7% alc., $30

Excellent. This Pullman, Wash., winery combined

a barrel of Stillwater Creek fruit in new Hungarian oak with a barrel of American oakaged fruit from Smith Canyon in the Yakima W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/11/08

2:52 PM

Page 97

recent releases Valley. Dark cherry tones, coffee, vanilla bean, baked chocolate chips and tobacco accents take turns appearing within this smoothly structured quaffer.

Olympic Cellars Winery 2005 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.8% alc., $20

Excellent. Highlighted fruit from a famed site, ele-

gant oak and food-friendly acidity make this worthy of attention. Black cherries, crushed filberts and drip coffee aromas dominate the nose. Flavors lead with more black cherries, followed by raspberries, milk chocolate and sturdy tannins.

Tamarack Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 554 cases, 14.19% alc., $28

Outstanding! Ron Coleman racked up plenty of

praise with this wine’s older sister, and he should get more of the same with this bottle, which is nearly filled by Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. Raspberries, cloves, dusty cherries and a dribble of vanilla extract tickle the senses. Luscious red cherries and marionberries make for a rich entry. The structure is akin to a strapless cocktail dress with beautiful balance, silky tannins and a long-legged finish of decadent chocolate.

Three Rivers Winery 2006 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope, 116 cases, 14.5% alc., $39

Outstanding! Holly Turner casts a fitting spotlight

both on this underappreciated grape and this unsung vineyard with this swanky release. The nose shouts blueberries, boysenberry, plum jam, milk chocolate and vanilla. Tongue-coating best describes the rich structure of black cherries, more juicy purple fruit and vanilla bean. Suggested fare includes pungent cheese, lamb or pot roast.

Red blends Abacela Vineyards & Winery

of acidity and tannin, capped by a piece of bittersweet chocolate.

buzzing back to the glass.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Bordheauxd Red

Merry Cellars

Columbia Valley, 353 cases, 14.6% alc., $26

2006 Crimson

Outstanding! Michael Sebastini’s tribute to the

Washington, 288 cases, 15.1% alc., $30

Columbia Gorge sailboarding community is blend of Syrah (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%) and Merlot, and it’s hard to put down. It’s smells and tastes akin to Hawaiian Fruit Punch with strawberries, plums and black cherries, and yet tea tannins and juicy acidity act as skeg and centerboard for balance.

Outstanding! The winery is in Pullman, Wash., so alumni and fans of Washington State University will appreciate the nostalgic football team photo on this bottle and the “Savor Victory” slogan it carries. This blend of Merlot (41%), Cab Franc (30%), Cab Sauv (20%), Petit Verdot (7%) and Mourvédre roars with complex notes of black cherries, blueberries, mocha and green peppercorns. Tannins put up a brawny front, but don’t step over the line of scrimmage, allowing for a late dash of baker’s chocolate.

Chateau Fair Le Pont 2004 Confluence Red Wine Washington, 300 cases, 13.3% alc., $23

Excellent. Doug Brazil blends Cabernet

Sauvignon (56%) from Elerding Vineyard in the Yakima Valley with Merlot (25%) from Cowan near Prosser and Cab Franc off Fielding Hill’s RiverBend site on the Wahluke Slope for this oh-so-smooth claret. A base aroma profile of cherries picks up complexity with Coffee Nips, forest floor, sage and green peppercorn notes. It’s all Bing cherries and cola on the palate with vanilla, pleasing acidity and a virtual absence of tannin.

Fork in the Road

Recommended. The D’Andrea estate overlooking

Vaseaux Lake near Okanagan Falls offers a blend of Merlot (75%) and Cabernet Sauvignon that features aromas of pie cherries and cranberries with inviting and exotic herbs such as horehound and woodruff. Blackcap raspberries, white strawberries and more juicy cherries carry the palate from beginning to end. 2005 Abbinare

Excellent. The folks at Mission Hill Family Estate

are building a portfolio of quality labels under their Artisan Wine Company branch. Here’s the eclectic part of the lineup, but it’s a serious wine crafted with Merlot (60%), Syrah (30%) and Cabernet Franc from the southern part of the valley. Blackcap raspberry, blackberry, dark chocolate, cedar and tar aromas transcend into more juicy blackberries and rich chocolate on the palate with firm tannins, lots of acidity and black olive in the finish. And this label doesn’t screw around with cork either.

Washington, 228 cases, 14.85% alc., $28

Excellent. Tim Narby devotes most of his produc-

tion to blends. This release of Bordeaux varieties incorporates Merlot (45%) from Arianses Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon (33%) off StoneTree, Cabernet Franc (11%) courtesy of Kestrel View and the Malbec via Verhey. Black cherries, sweet boysenberries and canned plums are joined by French vanilla and Timothy hay accents throughout.

Pentâge Winery 2005 Pentâge Red Wine

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards

Okanagan Valley, 14% alc., $29 CDN

Silver Anniversary 2006 Tradition Red Wine

Recommended. The namesake of this winery overlooking Skaha Lake blends Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (43%), Cab Franc (9%), Syrah (1%) and Gamay Noir (1%), and the melange produces hints of black currants, boysenberries, heavy toast and river rock throughout.

along Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Malbec (5%) and Petit Verdot, and they found a haven in French oak barrels. What emerged are notes of black plums, blackberries, cherries, roasted red peppers, vanilla bean and a sprinkle of Love’s Baby Soft powder. Cherries and chocolate take over on the palate in bold fashion with a pinch of oregano, pomegranate acidity and spicy tannins.

Outstanding! The Gordon family went from 138 cases in 1983 to an annual estate bottling of 25,000 cases after 25 years. And the Gordons certainly know how to celebrate. Cinnamon bark, black cherries, boysenberries, coffee, cocoa powder and crushed herbs only begin to describe the nose. Those same fruit components, including blackcap raspberries, sing sweetly across the palate in a silkiness that merely drapes the tongue. Pleasing acidity and tannins frame the finish of a cherry cough drop.

Bitner Vineyards

Maryhill Winery

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz

2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Serendipity Red Wine

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Okanagan Valley, 14.5% alc., $30 CDN

Nota Bene Cellars

Southern Oregon, 204 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Outstanding! Ron Bitner spent many years in Australia for bee research, which explains why he refers to Syrah as Shiraz, leading the way with 66% of this blend. Longtime friend/winemaker Greg Koenig’s use of barrel accents the dark ripe cherry, spice plum and green peppercorn aromas. On the palate, it’s big on ripe black cherries and framed nicely by tannins. Then, the chocolaty oak finish keeps you

2005 Meritage

Okanagan Valley, 1,400 cases, 13% alc., $23 CDN

Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 13.7% alc., $45

Idaho, 72 cases, 14% alc., $32

Noble Ridge Vineyards & Winery

2006 Oliver Block 249 Red Wine

2005 Claret Recommended. Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) pulls

WINE REVIEWS

Columbia Valley, 963 cases, 14.5% alc., $44

Recommended. The Horse Heaven Hills, including

Alder Ridge, Gunkel and Lonesome Springs, supplied most of these Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (25%), Cab Franc (10%), Malbec (5%) and Petit Verdot. Senses are awakened with a fresh cup of French press coffee, followed by big jammy black currents and cherries with good balance

Pepper Bridge Winery 2005 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 400 cases, 13.9% alc., $55

Outstanding! The devastation in this valley

wreaked by winter kill concerned longtime winemaker Jean-François Pellet, but the bounce-back vintage proved historic. His blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (39%), Malbec (3%) and Petit Verdot shows the fruit was picked at the peak of ripeness, starting with aromas of Chukar Cherries, plums, chocolate shavings, green peppercorns and coffee. And they all spill out across the tongue in a smooth fashion with tannins that are assertive, not annoying.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2006 Syrah-Roussanne Columbia Valley, 73 cases, 15.2% alc., $26

Excellent. When it comes to Syrah, it’s interesting

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

WINE REVIEWS

1:45 PM

Page 98

recent releases

to see Roussanne (10%), rather than Viognier, incorporated into Rhône-style blends in the Northwest. Yet, there’s little disguising this Syrah with the notes of blackberry jam, black olives, alder smoke, coffee and green peppercorn. Purple fruit is met by early acidity on the palate, followed by bittersweet chocolate.

results yield dark aromas of black cherries, black walnut, vanilla bean, black olives and bell pepper. Delicious black fruit is inside with green peppercorns on the midpalate with balanced acidity and tannins. Try this with stuffed peppers or meatloaf.

Other reds

Saint Laurent Estate Winery

black cherry, raspberry, toast and chocolate tones. The brightness of the acidity overshadows the tannins until the finish, which bodes well for a decade of cellar life. Or enjoy now with suggested fare such as stuffed pork chops with Creole butter and sautéed crawfish.

Abacela Vineyards and Winery

2005 Artist Series La Boehme Red Wine

Merry Cellars

2006 Umpqua Cuvée Tempranillo

Wahluke Slope, 382 cases, 14.5% alc., $42

2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Carménère

Southern Oregon, 1,500 cases, 13.6% alc., $20

Recommended. The estate Dune Vineyard put

Walla Walla Valley, 189 cases, 14.8% alc., $34

Excellent. This Roseburg, Ore., winery made the

forth the fruit for this easy-going reserve blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (74%), Merlot (13%) and Syrah (13%). Influential French oak runs alongside notes of black cherries, blueberries, brambleberries, coffee, crushed herbs and rich chocolate. Abundant age-worthy acidity accents the near absence of tannin.

Recommended. From this cozy winery in Pullman,

Spangler Vineyards

Olympic Cellars Winery

2006 Claret

2006 Dungeness Red Lemberger

Spanish variety famous in the Northwest, and its expanded production and price for this line will help spread the word. Black cherry, Tellicherry pepper, red licorice, vanilla bean and chocolate warm the nose. Tons of rich red tones continue on the palate, joined by blueberries, leaf tobacco, vanilla and drip coffee flavors. Bright acidity means strong aging, and the rough tannins typically associated with this variety already have been tamed.

Southern Oregon, 216 cases, 13.8% alc., $28

Horse Heaven Hills, 225 cases, 14.4% alc., $16

Outstanding! This marked Patrick Spangler’s third

Outstanding! The 2004 version of this wine was

vintage in Roseburg, Ore., and he makes an emphatic statement with this blend of Merlot (87%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Cab Franc. Dusty cherries, cassis, calf leather, sarsaparilla, tilled earth and tomato vine aromas are just the beginning. It turns Chukar Cherry on the palate alongside more currants, boysenberries with a bit of the seed and crushed green peppercorns. The smooth and chocolaty tannins help serve as a siren, calling you back to the lip of the glass.

French-born Benoit Murat’s award-winning debut for this Port Angeles winery, and he’s not lost a step with this vintage off Champoux Vineyard. Sexy blackberry aromas are joined by spicy plums and red currants. On the palate, it’s juicy with brambleberries, black cherries and chocolate overtones.

Stephenson Cellars NV Red Wine Washington, 330 cases, 14.1% alc., $20

Recommended. The entry level line at this Walla

Walla winery spans three vintages and four vineyards from four appellations. The Syrah (80%) stands out among the Cab Sauv and Merlot with its jammy plum structure. Expressive notes of dark cherries, earth, anise, menthol and crushed filberts find harmony because of the balance.

Tamarack Cellars 2006 Firehouse Red Columbia Valley, 6,032 cases, 13.92% alc., $20

Excellent. One of the most remarkable wines in

the Northwest remains so. There are 20 components when you factor in the vineyard sources and seven varieties — Cab Sauv (34%), Syrah (30%), Merlot (21%), Cab Franc (8%), Sangiovese (3%), Carménère (2%) and Malbec (2%). There’s a strong influence of oak with lots of coffee and tobacco tones, yet plenty of plums and pie cherries rest on the palate, too. Herbal notes with food-friendly acidity and bright tannins give this broad food applications. Look for this wine at astute restaurants because it’s long gone from Ron Coleman’s winery.

Wedge Mountain Winery

Wash., comes one of the largest Northwest releases of this historic Bordeaux variety. Stewed plums and cherry cough syrup tones are showcased along with time spent inside spicy and powerful Hungarian and American oak.

Ankeny Vineyard 2006 Maréchal Foch

2006 Tempranillo Columbia Valley, 95 cases, 13.7% alc., $29

Recommended. Lloyd Piercy’s Echo (Ore.) West

Vineyard supplied the Spanish variety grapes, and Holly Turner included Petit Verdot (5%) from the Wahluke Slope for brash but sweet, smoky and woodsy drink with hints of cherry pie, cola, bittersweet chocolate and dusty slate. Enjoy with sizzling ribeye under a dollop of Rogue River Blue cheese.

Willamette Valley, 195 cases, 13.4% alc., $18

Recommended. Pinot Noir grower Joe Olexa deals

with this French hybrid to provide customers with the option of a more muscular red. There’s a lot of complexity here with dense aromas of black cherry cola, stewed plums, moist earth, moss and green beans. Huge raspberry tones and acidity find favor amid smooth tannins.

Whites Chardonnay Bitner Vineyards 2005 Reserve Chardonnay Idaho, 150 cases, 13.2% alc., $16

Trio Vintners 2006 den Hoed Vineyard Mourvèdre Yakima Valley, 153 cases, 14.5% alc., $26

Excellent. Art den Hoed relishes the peppercorn

notes in this Rhône variety from his Sunnyside vineyard, and these Walla Walla winemakers showcase them. The profile leads with plump boysenberries and blackberries, along with white chocolate and coffee tones. It’s rich with pie cherry acidity and finishes with more chocolate.

Excellent. One of the top combinations in the

Snake River Valley is Ron Bitner’s fruit and Greg Koenig’s winemaking, and this isn’t your typical oaky reserve style Chardonnay. It’s delicate and fruit-forward with aromas and flavors of apricots, peaches, pears and bananas. There’s a bit of lanolin in the midpalate, but food-friendly grapefruity acidity picks up soon after and finishes with cantaloupe.

Cathedral Ridge Winery

Abacela Vineyards & Winery

2007 Chardonnay

2005 Estate Tempranillo

Columbia Valley, 420 cases, 12.5% alc., $22

Southern Oregon, 466 cases, 13.5% alc., $35

Recommended. Stylistic employment of oak

Excellent. Inviting aromas of black cherries, black

weaves all around this bi-state blend of fruit from the Graves vineyards in Dallesport, Wash., and McDuffee in The Dalles, Ore. Apples and citrusy acidity lead to a tasty and toasty farewell.

raspberries and light toast prepare the palate for an easy drink of blackberries, Bing cherries and plums with juicy acidity, a hint of vanilla and modest tannins that make for an easy finish. Earl and Hilda Jones suggest serving this with spicy Asian influenced kabobs.

2006 Tres Cheval Rouge

Abacela Vineyards & Winery

Columbia Valley, 96 cases, 13.8% alc., $22

2005 Reserve Tempranillo

Recommended. Charlie McKee’s Peshastin,

Southern Oregon, 480 cases, 14.4% alc., $65

Wash., winery relied on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from Harold Pleasant’s vines in Benton City. The easy-going

Recommended. Three blocks on this famed

Three Rivers Winery

Roseburg, Ore., estate made for the construction of a hedonistic reserve style with

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Phelps Creek Vineyards 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay Columbia Gorge, 322 cases, 13.4% alc., $18

Excellent. A crop of estate (84%) and Celilo vine-

yard grapes fermented in steel tanks allows the fruit to shine. Signs of grapefruit, orange oil, pears, butter and olive oil make the mouth water. A big burst of orange on the palate is folW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

1:45 PM

Page 99

recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Pinot Gris

lowed by pears and ringed with bracing acidity. Enjoy this screwcapped bottling with halibut cheeks in a light fruit salsa.

Mission Hill Family Estate Okanagan Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.0% $20 CDN

Erath Winery

Saint Laurent Estate Winery

Excellent. John Simes sourced throughout the

2007 Pinot Gris

valley to create this alluring aroma of peach fuzz, apricots, jicama and citrus fruit. On the tongue, it’s full of Mandarin oranges and lemon/lime flavors with great acidity and some grapefruity bitterness joined by anise in the farewell. There’s 1.2% residual sugar, and it’s all guarded by a screwcap.

Oregon, 24,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

2007 Estate Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Outstanding! Colgate grad Craig Mitrakul con-

tinues to show he’s wise beyond his years by striking the perfect formula of fruit, oak and acidity in this Chardonnay done in both steel and barrel. Toasty oak is integrated nicely amid the fruity hints of lime, pineapple, orange and apples. He crafted a creamy and pleasing structure that later is framed by acidity and includes a farewell of butterscotch.

Tamarack Cellars 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 13.5% alc., $18

Recommended. Gooseberry tartness, lemony acid-

ity, toasty almond and woodsy overtones should allow this wine to reel in a serving of rainbow trout or shellfish.

2007 Reserve Riesling

Namasté Vineyards 2007 Tranquility Vineyard Riesling Outstanding! The rise in quality continues at this winery and 24-year-old vineyard just west of Oregon’s state capitol. There’s a hint of cotton candy in the aroma, but it’s a serious and dry drink (0.8% residual sugar) with notes of Granny Smith apples, Asian pears, starfruit and a hint of petrol. The crispness and mouth-watering acidity should pare well with grilled oysters or a fruit and cheese plate.

Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Riesling

2007 Un-Oaked Chardonnay

Willamette Valley, 263 cases, 13% alc., $20

Okanagan Valley, 690 cases, 13.3% alc., $18 CDN

Outstanding! Dick Ponzi crafted Riesling from 1974

featuring notes of peaches, honeydew and almonds with yellow grapefruit acidity for nice crispness.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Dijon Clone Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 2,388 cases, 14.5%, $18

Recommended. A life of 10 months in French oak

reveals itself with style and inviting hints of popcorn, apples and butter. The medium-bodied palate features flavors of tropical and citrus fruit along with pineapples, more toasted oak and some apple peel bitterness.

Riesling Camas Prairie Winery Nonvintage White Riesling Washington, 220 cases, 10.7% alc., $12

until 1994, when consumer interest waned. In 2005, his winemaking daughter, Luisa, took up the torch in 2005, and the results are stunning. The family’s 37-year-old Estate Vineyard supplied about half of this bottling, which smells of freshly baked apple pie. The Granny Smith and Golden Delicious apples carry on to the palate with crisp, mouth-watering lime acidity that hangs in the finish to balance what little sweetness (1.0% residual sugar) there is.

Saint Laurent Estate Winery 2007 Estate Vineyards Riesling Recommended. The Mracheks’ Quincy Estate

yielded the fruit for this Riesling that features classic apple and pear notes with the solid citrusy acidity that makes it a nice match for Thai food or a bowl of pho.

The Magnificent Wine Co. 2007 The Original Riesling Columbia Valley, 2,600 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Farms in the Yakima Valley, then he finishes it in Moscow, Idaho. Jasmine, grapefruit, sugar cane, honeydew melon and butterscotch begin to describe the bouquet. There’s more jasmine with lots of mouth-watering tropical and lychee flavors. Pleasing sweetness makes this a great cocktail wine or a fine companion to a shared plate of coconut shrimp.

Outstanding! There’s more than just marketing behind the labels of these wines. Complex aromas hinting at orange juice, pineapples, peaches, apples and facial powder sprinkle in similar style on the palate. Notes of jasmine and basil meld in with the sweetness (1.0% residual sugar) that still strikes balance with acidity.

Three Rivers Winery 2007 Riesling

2007 Riesling

Columbia Valley, 650 cases, 11% alc., $19

Columbia Valley, 608 cases, 12.5% alc., $18

Outstanding! A fairly off-dry offering (3.1% residual sugar) includes Sauvignon Blanc (23%) to heighten the remarkable late acidity. The aromas are reminiscent of Ambrosia Fruit Salad with fresh-cut pineapple, cantaloupe, Mandarin orange and honeysuckle. There’s a focus of pears and apricots on the palate, but the pineapple and lemony acidity ties it together tastefully.

Excellent. Whites long have been a strength at

this established Hood River, Ore., operation. The tradition continues with abundant orchard fruit aromas of pears, apples, nectarine and mulling spices. Delightful is the pouring of the same sweet tree fruit, and the acid balance makes this ideal for Christmas brunch or easy quaffing. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Maysara Winery 2007 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 1,100 cases, 13% alc., $18

Excellent. Here marks the debut vintage of wine-

maker Tahmiene Momtazi, an Oregon State grad and daughter of winery owner Mo Momtazi. Peaches, apricots and dried apple aromas are backed by hints of figs, lemon and allspice berries. Fig returns to the palate with Granny Smith apple, a squirt of lemon and citrus pith bitterness. Lively acidity on the finish gives this wine a lean elegance and a place next to a serving of oysters.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio Okanagan Valley, 10,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $17 CDN

Outstanding! John Simes and his team at this Canadian showpiece present a delicious and versatile Pinot Gris that’s the product of five sites within the Okanagan Valley. Delicate aromas of starfruit, apples, gooseberry and lemon pepper give way to more apples and starfruit with grapefruit acidity, gooseberry tartness and a bit of jasmine in the finish. Suggested pairings include halibut or smoke salmon pasta with cream sauce.

Columbia Valley, 295 cases, 13.3% alc., $14

Excellent. Stu Scott buys this fruit at Wykoff

Cathedral Ridge Winery

as much skill with this grape for so long, and in such quantity. Gary Horner sends out a woodfree wine loaded with tropical aromas of papaya, mango, banana, Fuji apple and tangerines. The palate is focused on orchard fruit of pears and apples with an acid balance that will serve it well paired with linguini and clam sauce.

Willamette Valley, 448 cases, 11.5% alc., $18

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery Recommended. Here’s a fruit-forward Chardonnay

Excellent. Few wineries in Oregon have shown

Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Reserve Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 3,600 cases, 13.5% alc., $20 CDN

Excellent. A pleasing balance of stainless steel and barrel is struck, first hinted at with aromas of orchard and citrus fruit with butterscotch candy. Pears and apples lead on the entry of the palate, then the citrus zips in with lemons on the midpalate and sweet pineapple in the finish. That freshness is guarded by a screwcap.

Pentâge Winery 2007 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 13.5% alc., $18

Outstanding! Paul Gardner continues to flash skill at his boutique winery near Penticton, and this beautiful Pinot Gris is full of Bartlett pear, lemon, pink grapefruit and apple blossom aromas. Think of biting into a crispy Granny Smith apple and then a slice of pear, tied together with mouthwatering acidity. Enjoy this with halibut in a lemon caper sauce.

Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 8,200 cases, 13.3% alc., $17

Recommended. The Ponzi family first planted this

variety in 1977 and remains one of Oregon’s largest producers of this grape. No oak — or

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

12/11/08

WINE REVIEWS

12:05 PM

Page 100

recent releases

cork — was used in the process which delivers grapefruit and lemon notes with just a bit of pear syrup in the finish.

The Four Graces 2007 Pinot Gris Dundee Hills, 4,000 cases, 13.7% alc., $18

Excellent. Vines planted in 1993 produced a deli-

cious drink that preserves the fruit while incorporating a creamy midpalate. Notes of dusty apples, pears, grapefruit, cantaloupe, almond, lemongrass and flannel swirl over and inside the glass.

WillaKenzie Estate 2007 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 5,684 cases, 13.8% alc., $18

Excellent. It was a trying vintage in Oregon, but

Thibaud Mandet turned out a winner here. Dusty orchard fruit, pineapple and gooseberry aromas lead into a delicious entry of more gooseberries, starfruit, ripe honeydew melon and bit of orchard fruit peel. Enjoy with ling cod or halibut with pesto and lemon.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 30,000 cases, 13.0%, $15

Excellent. Stainless steel fermentation features

the fruit while giving it a rich presentation on the palate. Notes of honeydew melon, Juicy Fruit gum, juicy peaches and starfruit make it a delicious drink and a suitable complement to a fruit and cheese plate.

Gewürztraminer David Hill Vineyards and Winery 2007 Estate Gewürztraminer Willamette Valley, 300 cases, 13.3% alc., $16

Outstanding! This winery and the city of Hillsboro

were named after this Oregon pioneer, and Jason Bull is unlocking the potential of this 15year-old estate vineyard. A delicate and seamless nose profiles hints of grapefruit, gooseberries, orange oil, lychee and orchard blossoms. Inside awaits more yellow grapefruit and orange oil flavors and acidity. Food pairing possibilities are numerous, including bay scallops or linguine and clam sauce.

Dowsett Family Winery 2007 Celilo Vineyard Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge, 100 cases, 13.9% alc., $22

Outstanding! Chris Dowsett spent years at Canoe

Ridge Vineyard in Walla Walla, which focused its Gewürz project in the Columbia Gorge, so he knows this acclaimed 24-year-old site in Underwood, Wash. The stunning results, achieved with 0.5% residual sugar, prompted one judge to comment “the Northwest goes to Alsace.” Wonderful floral characters of rose water, honeysuckle, pears and mango gush out on the palate with more tropical notes. Grapefruity midpalate acidity and a citrus pith finish make this a marvelous wine to pair with a rich chicken dish such coq au vin or lemon risotto.

Phelps Creek Vineyards

Wash., has produced some of Washington’s best Gewürz over the years for other wineries. Grapefruit, lime and almond aromas lead into a delicious palate of apples and oranges. It offers a sweet mouthfeel at 1.5% residual sugar, but bright acidity imparts good balance.

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Five Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley, 9,500 cases, 14% alc., $16 CDN

Outstanding! About 80% of the production at the Kelowna, B.C., winery is devoted to this fruitforward line, and the value is welcomed. Very inviting aromas of Pink Lady apples, apricots, tangerine and Thompson seedless grapes continue onto the palate with fresh-cut pineapples that add to a big, rich mouthfeel. Lingering citrusy acidity with a bit of pith creates balance.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

Kestrel Vintners 2007 Estate Viognier Yakima Valley, 605 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Recommended. Flint Nelson’s estate fruit site in

the Roza gave him the tools to produce a drink with notes of sweet lemons, fresh-cut grass, sandalwood, apples and Asian pear tartness for balance.

Maison Bleue Winery 2007 Notre Vie Viognier Columbia Valley, 158 cases, 14% alc., $23

Recommended. Jon Martinez’s passion for Rhône

varieties has taken him from Missouri to The Winemakers Loft in Prosser. His interpretation includes some Roussanne (15%) for a tasty quaffer that features orange oil, pineapple, melon and lemony acidity.

Okanagan Valley, 5,500 cases, 12% alc., $20 CDN

McKinley Springs Winery

Recommended. Vines not far from the

2006 Viognier

Canada/U.S. border produce this dry, foodfriendly drink that features aromas of pink grapefruit with the peel, muskmelon, gooseberry and French oak. There’s more grapefruit and pineapple tones on the palate with good tartness and acidity.

Horse Heaven Hills, 415 cases, 13.8% alc., $14

Pentâge Winery 2007 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Okanagan Valley, 13.5% alc., $20 CDN

Excellent. Dry whites fare incredibly well in British Columbia, and this expanding winery overlooking Skaha Lake south of Penticton presents another example. Golden Delicious apples, citrus and butternut squash aromas set the table for flavors of tart lemons and limes, a midpalate of vanilla and marshmallow and juicy acidity in the finish.

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley, 790 cases, 13.4% alc., $19 CDN

Excellent. This Bordeaux variety seems to enjoy

the Okanagan Valley, and here’s another excellent example. Aromas of citrus fruit, muskmelon and lemon pepper lead into flavors of green apples, pineapple sorbet and a scrape of lemon peel bitterness.

Waterbrook Winery 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 5,970 cases, 13.7% alc., $12

Recommended. One of the region’s largest produc-

tion of this white Bordeaux grape offers notes of gooseberries, lychee, apples, pears, petrol, vanilla and fresh-cut grass in the aromas. It’s very dry on the entry with green apples and the second cut of pineapple, accented by minerality and hint of menthol in the finish.

Viognier Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2007 Viognier

2006 Oak Ridge Gewürztraminer

Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 14.3% alc., $25

Columbia Gorge, 228 cases, 13.6% alc. $17

Recommended. Francisca’s Vineyard nearby in

Excellent. Here’s no surprise as this site in Husum,

Walla Walla and Willow Crest in the Yakima

100

Valley make for tones of tangerines, sweetened lemons, oak toast and alyssum with citrus tartness then a bit of sweetness on the finish.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Excellent. Some of the top Viognier producers in

the Northwest buy these grapes, which helped prompt the Andrew family to launch their Prosser winery in 2002. Jonagold apples, dusty pear, toasted hominy and grapefruit aromas are followed by sweet viscous flavors of pears, tangerines, apples and cinnamon. Ample acidity creates a persistence on the palate that finishes with pineapples and cantaloupe.

Merry Cellars 2006 Viognier Washington State, 91 cases, 14.6% alc., $18

Excellent. Palouse winemaker Patrick Merry took

fruit from Underwood Mountain in the Columbia Gorge and Snipes Canyon in the Yakima Valley, and didn’t bother with oak. The result is a refreshing approach with notes of cooked apples, cinnamon, citrus and crushed leaf. A deliciously rich, almost oily, midpalate gets whisked away by acidity, where a hint of herbaceousness in the finish should go well with ceviche.

Spangler Vineyards 2007 Viognier Southern Oregon, 289 cases, 13.1% alc., $18

Outstanding! This portion of Oregon has no problem ripening Rhône varieties, and this vintage allowed Patrick Spangler to make a highly expressive and broadly shouldered white. Peaches, apricots and apples join tutti-fruity aromas, and there’s an abundance of more white-fleshed orchard fruit on the long and delicious palate. Hints of melon and jasmine arrive in the midpalate, and it finishes with a flourish of orange oil.

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2007 Viognier Okanagan Valley, 275 cases, 13.3%, $20 CDN

Excellent. Bradley Cooper crafted a wine that’s true to the variety, starting with aromas that include orange Creamsicle, spiced pear and green apples. There are salivating fresh-fruit flavors with Mandarin oranges and more orchard fruit, and the acidity really hits the spot. The W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

1:46 PM

Page 101

recent releases food-friendly grapefruit pith finish will allow this complement pasta in a cream sauce or oysters.

White blends

smoke, tasty fresh-cut apples and yellow grapefruit acidity are the hallmarks of this wine from 26-year-old vines.

Eaton Hill Winery

WINE REVIEWS

Verdot and Viognier) from the Wahluke Slope and Walla Walla and Yakima valleys produced a dry rosé with features of strawberry/rhubarb compote, President plums and orange citrus acidity.

Ankeny Vineyard

NV Lot 057 Orange Muscat

NV Ankeny Silver

Yakima Valley, 43 cases, 12% alc., $14

McKinley Springs Winery

Willamette Valley, 142 cases, 12% alc., $15

Outstanding! Most often, this variety of Muscat is

2007 Rosé

Recommended. Technically, this could be classified

the stuff of dessert wines. Ed Stear turned this crop from Rogers Vineyard into a uniquely dry and descriptive interpretation. Tropical notes of lychee, banana, spearmint and nutmeg leap out of the glass and carry on in full-flavored fashion. Its viscous midpalate allows the flavors to hang, and ample acidity gives it the stuff to pair with frittatas joined by a touch of chili pepper.

Horse Heaven Hills, 340 cases, 14.8% alc., $12

as a Chardonnay (83%), but the addition of Early Muscat (7%) Pinot Gris (7%) and Pinot Blanc adds talking points to this quaffable blend of tank and barrel-fermented juice. Pears, white strawberry, apple box, wheat cracker, green olive and filberts notes are found within its off-dry structure.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards

Recommended. This Prosser, Wash., estate win-

ery grows nearly 20 varieties and has the distinction of using Barbera for its rosé. Aromas include strawberries, rose water, peach fuzz and fresh-cut grass. There’s more of the same on the dry palate, with the acidity of cranberry acidity and strawberry leather in the finish. Enjoy this with a ham sandwich.

2007 Calico White

Elk Cove Vineyards

Columbia Valley, 995 cases, 13.9% alc., $16

2007 Pinot Blanc

Eaton Hill Winery

Outstanding! These Walla Walla women launched

Willamette Valley, 1,483 cases, 13.0% alc., $19

2007 Eaton Hill Vineyards Rosé de Franc

their “Calico” line for value, and winemaker Steffen Jorgensen delivers with a blend of stainless Chardonnay (39%) and barrel-fermented Roussanne (31%) and Viognier (30%). Warm oak and citrus aromas lead into a flood for apples, citrus and quinine on the palate. The fizzy acidity, fruit and toasty oak in the finish made us crave buffalo wings with ranch dressing.

Excellent. No doubt this orchard-focused wine —

Yakima Valley, 103 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

sourced from the Mount Richmond and Estate sites as well as famed Meredith Mitchell — was used to help celebrate this scenic winery’s 30th anniversary in Gaston, Ore. Dusty pears, apples, honey, lychee and cinnamon notes deliver in approachable fashion suitable for shellfish.

Recommended. Cabernet Franc often does well as

Mount Defiance Wine Co.

2006 Pinot Blanc

2007 Hellfire White Wine

Willamette Valley, 4,300 cases, 13.8% alc., $14

Columbia Gorge, 647 cases, 13% alc., $15

Recommended. Fresh-cut apples, tangerine and

Excellent. This second label for Phelps Creek Vineyards in Hood River, Ore., pays tribute to the late Rev. Billy Sunday, a controversial Prohibition figure in the Midwest who also owned an orchard in the Gorge. This blend of Gewürztraminer (52%), Chardonnay (24%), Pinot Gris (16%) and Pinot Noir (7%) is smooth and loaded with Jonagold apples and Asian pears with a nice acidity in the back that will pair well with scallops.

lime tones shine without any cumbersome oak or malolactic fermentation influences. It’s finished dry by grapefruit acidity and citrus pith, making it a wine to be enjoyed as a sipper or with dinner.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2007 Pinot Gris/Chardonnay Oregon/Washington, 68 cases, 13.7% alc., $12

Outstanding! Larry Lindvig lives in Carnation, Wash., and doesn’t mind crossing state lines for the fruit to make his award-winning wines. This trek brought back Pinot Gris (66%) from Courting Hill in Banks, Ore., and Chardonnay (34%) from K.B. Walker Vineyard in Washington. It’s akin to a fresh crop of Fuji apples with round edges that receive a nice kick from acidity and finish with a strip of apple peel.

Saint Laurent Estate Winery 2007 Lucky White Columbia Valley, 495 cases, 13.2% alc., $13

Recommended. A proprietary blend leading with

Sauvignon Blanc (54%) and followed by Chardonnay (31%) and Riesling makes for easy drinking. Expect to find notes including Mandarin oranges, McIntosh apples, artichokes and candy corn in a pleasing structure.

Others whites McKinley Springs Winery

Erath Winery

Olympic Cellars Winery

Maysara Winery

2007 Rosé the Riveter Lemberger Rosé Horse Heaven Hills, 225 cases, 13.1% alc., $14

Excellent. Few wineries in the Northwest devote as much attention to Lemberger with as much success. Kathy Charlton’s Working Girl line continues to please with this strawberry-themed blush that hints at raspberries, peaches and mint with just a tug of tannin to keep this serious.

Phelps Creek Vineyard

2007 Pinot Blanc

2007 Celilo Rosé

McMinnville, 200 cases, 13% alc., $17

Excellent. This is the McMinnville, Ore., winery’s

inaugural release of Pinot Blanc, and it comes off the 540-acre estate Momtazi — the state’s largest certified biodynamic vineyard. And it’s Tahmiene Momtazi’s time to make wine for her parents. A turn of the screwcap ushers out aromas of apples, lemons, grass and flint. The palate opens up quite round with pears, apples and melons with a clean and citrusy finish. Enjoy this with a shrimp salad, Thai food or a seafood pasta.

The Four Graces 2007 Pinot Blanc Dundee Hills, 1,034 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Excellent. Laurent Montalieu, consulting wine-

maker at this young winery in Dundee, Ore., shows proper restraint in allowing the rich orchard fruit notes to shine from beginning to finish. Apricots, peaches, apples and pears abound with nice acidity, subtle sweetness and without the intrusion of oak. Try this with an egg-based casserole or Indian-inspired cuisine.

Rosé Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2007 Rosé

2006 Chenin Blanc

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.1% alc., $14

Horse Heaven Hills, 385 cases, 13.8% alc., $12

Recommended. An intriguing assortment of vari-

Recommended. Toasted wheat, a whiff of alder

eties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

a rose, and this is no exception. The Stears put it in medium Hungarian oak for four months, but there’s plenty of fruit to stand up with raspberry and cherry tones, along with barrel hints of horehound, woodruff, eucalyptus and anise.

Columbia Gorge, 342 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Recommended. A fun, fruity and crisp pink made

of Merlot is under screwcap and features notes of cranberries, dusty strawberries, raspberries and Montmorency cherries.

Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Rosato Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley, 694 cases, 13.1% alc., $17

Outstanding! Among the benefits of a multi-generational operation is knowledge of vineyards, and Luisa Ponzi grew up with the now 30-yearold Chehalem Mountains vines that created this pink wine. Pie cherries, strawberry with the leaf, rhubarb and citrus tickle the nose. The palate is focused on the same red fruit with pleasing frontal viscosity and delicious acidity. It’s virtually dry at 0.9% residual sugar.

Saint Laurent Estate Winery 2007 Syrah Rosé Wahluke Slope, 500 cases, 13.3% alc., $15

Excellent. Here’s a blueprint for those wanting to

go pink with some Syrah, which got some help from Riesling (15%) and Chardonnay (5%). Strawberry, plum juice, pineapple, caramel and rose petal aromas delve into more strawberry and plum flavors. There’s just a smidgen of residual sugar (0.5%), but bold acidity and a tug of tannin gives the package palate persistence.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

101

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

WINE REVIEWS

1:46 PM

Page 102

recent releases

Trust Cellars

Bitner Vineyards

Spangler Vineyards

2007 Cabernet Franc Rosé

2006 Late Harvest Riesling

2006 Late Harvest Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 109 cases, 13.7% alc., $16

Snake River Valley, 150 cases, 10.7% alc., $22

Southern Oregon, 141 cases, 8.5% alc., $18

Recommended. Steve Brooks tapped into

Recommended. Ron Bitner pays tribute to his for-

Recommended. This Roseburg, Ore., winery uses

mer livelihood, the research of honey bees, by embossing the image of a bee on the wax top of this dessert bottling. Baked apple with cinnamon, sugar-coated walnuts and lemony acidity to balance the residual sugar (8%) make this dessert worthy.

this grape for its crowd-pleasing dessert offering, which hints at dried apricots, pineapple, vanilla and lemonade. A subtle finish of crisp apples and limes accent the nice honeyed midpalate. Residual sugar sits at 10%.

Bacchus Vineyard for his delicious blush with an early hint of the off-dry structure in aromas of cotton candy, cherry taffy, boysenberries and hint of bubble gum. Cherries, marionberries and Bing cherries make for a luscious, round and sweet midpalate that’s capped by a nice burst of huckleberry acidity.

Three Rivers Winery

Davis Creek Cellars

2007 Biscuit Ridge Late Harvest Gewürztraminer

2007 Skyline Vineyard Late Harvest Syrah

Walla Walla Valley, 1,347 cases, 12% alc., $15

Snake River Valley, 93 cases, 16.2% alc., $25

Recommended. At 1,800 feet elevation, it’s one of

Anam Cara Cellars

Recommended. Gina Davis is a recent University

2007 Nicholas Estate Late Harvest Gewürztraminer

of Idaho grad who worked for several Idaho winemakers and helps manage a vineyard with her father. She now also makes small lots in her Marsing winery, including this enticing dessert drink charged up with well-rounded black cherry flavors and notes of sarsaparilla and Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. Enjoy this with an offering of dates, blue cheese, walnuts and a cigar.

the highest spots in the Walla Walla Valley, and this wine continues to stand out with the peachy, apple, almond and honeysuckle tones that make this a sweet sipper at 7.5% residual sugar. Suggested applications include fruitbased desserts, mild cheeses and in the hot tub.

Dessert wine

Chehalem Mountains, 80 cases, 9.7% alc., $21

Outstanding! Nick and Sheila Nicholas planted this

28-acre site in 2001 — nearly all of it with Pinot Noir — but they astutely tucked aside 1 acre for Gewürz. These grapes were cryogenically frozen then pressed to usher in tangerine, apple, apricot, honey and hints of botrytis aromas. The lipsmacking drink opens with apricots, apples and honey, but lime acidity holds the big sweetness (22.8% residual sugar) in check.

(PS Form 3526) 1. Publication Title: Wine Press Northwest. 3. Filing Date: 10/1/08. 4. Issue Frequency: Quarterly. 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 4. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $10. 7./8. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 333 W. Canal Dr., Kennewick, WA 99336. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Address of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Rufus M. Friday, Andy Perdue, Eric Degerman, 333 W. Canal Dr., Kennewick, WA 99336. 10. Owner: The McClatchy Company, a Delaware Corporation, 2100 Q. Street, Sacramento, CA 95816. Stockholders of record holding 1% or more of the total amount of stock of The McClatchy Company are: The Estate of James B. McClatchy, William Ellery McClatchy, William K. Coblentz and Gary B. Pruitt, as trustees of the trust for the benefit of Charles K. McClatchy, trust for the benefit of James B. McClatchy, trust for the benefit of William Ellery McClatchy and trust for the benefit of Sue M. Stiles; Estate of James B. McClatchy; Molly Maloney Evangelisti; Betty Lou Maloney Trust; Brown McClatchy Maloney; Kevin Sorenson McClatchy; and Adair Rideout McClatchy (all c/o The McClatchy Company, P.O. Box 1579, Sacramento, CA 95852-0779); Fred Eychaner, 1645 W. Fullerton Avenue, Chicago, IL 60614-1919; and Cede & Co., c/o The Depository Trust Company, P.O. Box 20, Bowling Green Station, New York, NY 10004-9998. 11. Cede & Co., c/o The Depository Trust Co., P.O. Box 20 Bowling Green Station, New York, NY 10004-9998 12: Tax Status: Has not changed during the preceding 12 months. 13. Publication Title: Wine Press Northwest. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 9/4/06. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Average No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies: 12,329/12,000. b. Paid and/or Requested Circulation. (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscription Stated on Form 3541: 2,087/2,483. (2) Paid In-County Subscription: 218/258. (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Non-USPS Paid Distribution: 2,256/2,648. (4) Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS: 31/39. c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 4,592/5,428. d. Free Distribution by Mail. (1) Outside-County as Stated on Form 3541: 1,725/1,972. (2) In-County as Stated on Form 3541: 124/131. (3) Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS: 192/179. e. Free Distribution Outside the Mail: 1,047/1,040. f. Total Free Distribution: 3,088/3,322. g. Total Distribution: 7,680/8,750. Copies not Distributed: 4,649/3,250. i. Total: 12,329/12,000. j. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 59.8%/62.0%.

102

2006 Semi-Sweet Dessert Zinfandel Wahluke Slope, 80 cases, 16.2% alc., $26

Melrose Vineyards

Recommended. This Walla Walla winemaking con-

2007 Estate Late Harvest Riesling

sortium tapped into the Milbrandts’ Pheasant Vineyard and held out this super-ripe lot to come up with a conversation piece that’s reminiscent of a blackberry milkshake, cherry pie ala mode with a cup of coffee or a box of Milk Duds. It’s sweet (2.6% residual sugar), creamy, smooth, warm and rich. Enjoy on its own or try with barbecued ribs.

Umpqua Valley, 235 cases, 9.8 % alc., $16

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation

Trio Vintners

Excellent. A delicious lip-smacking sipper fea-

tures Golden Delicious apples, tangerine, candy corn and caramelized sugar notes in the aromas and flavors. It’s a round and mouthcoating offering with 5.4% residual sugar.

Mission Hills Family Estate 2005 Late Harvest Vidal Reserve Okanagan Valley, 1,200 cases, 9% alc., $25 CDN

Sparkling Camas Prairie Winery

Excellent. There’s not a lot of Vidal grown in this

NV Brut Sparkling Wine

valley, but this came off the Naramata Bench. The aromatics are akin to dipping your nose in unfiltered honey, along with peaches, apricots, poached pear and vanilla bean. Honey notes and caramel perpetuate on to the palate, where the lime acidity momentarily overwhelms the sugar (16%), eventually standing aside for nectarine with the pit in finish.

Washington, 85 cases, 12% alc., $17

Phelps Creek Vineyards

Camas Prairie Winery

2007 Vin Dore Dessert Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge, 131 cases, 11% alc., $24

Outstanding! Rich Cushman creates the “Golden

Wine” at this expanding Hood River, Ore., operation by freezing grapes from across the Columbia in Husum, Wash. Aromas and flavors include tangerine, apricots, dried pear and honey with a late burst of mouthwatering acidity to balance the residual sugar (19%) and keep you coming back.

Rollingdale Winery

Recommended. This nonvintage brunch-style

sparkler from Chardonnay off Wykoff Farms in the Yakima Valley features hints of spicy clover honey and McIntosh apple aromas with some jasmine on the soft midpalate and toasted pine nuts in the tart finish. Enjoy this with Chinese or five-star Thai cuisine. NV Fred Sparkling Wine Washington, 100 cases, 12% alc., $20

Recommended. Idaho winemaker Stuart Scott

does a little bit of everything in his downtown Moscow winery, including making bubbles from Lemberger off famed Champoux Vineyard. It opens with a delightful nose of Bing cherries, raspberries and homemade beet juice, which all carries through across the palate. There’s a touch of chocolate and tannin in the finish, and we’d suggest enjoying this “fizzy red” with smoked meats.

2006 Pinot Gris Sweet Tooth Series Icewine Okanagan Valley, 160 cases, 8.2% alc., $70 CDN

Camas Prairie Winery

Excellent. These folks in Kelowna, British

NV Sweet Sparkling Wine

Columbia took organic estate fruit and fermented it in new French oak to create intrigue and panache. Pleasingly pungent aromas feature tangerine, apricot, candy corn, orange and lots of butterscotch candy. The butterscotch carries onto the palate structured by apricot syrup (40% residual sugar) and French vanilla ice cream.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

Washington, 85 cases, 12% alc., $17

Excellent. Wedding receptions were a prime rea-

son Stuart Scott began making sparkling wines years ago, and here’s the Asti part of his lineup. Those new to wine will enjoy the sweet pears, honey, lemon, jasmine and apple box aromas that fall into juicy flavors of unfiltered apple juice with a lemon/lime finish. At 7 percent residual W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

12/9/08

1:46 PM

Page 103

recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $10 and under.

Columbia Crest Winery

Kestrel Vintners

2006 Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine

NV Fourth Edition Pure Platinum White Wine

Washington, 30,000 cases, 13% alc., $8

Yakima Valley, 4,288 cases, 12.5% alc., $10

Recommended. A blend of Chardonnay,

Outstanding! A gold-medal winner at the Tri-

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the bulk of the fruit comes off one of the oldest and largest estate vineyards near the Paterson, Wash., winery. It’s quite a quaffer, opening with aromas of dusty apples, quince, sandalwood and lemon sorbet. A bright tropical fruit entry brings the late acidity of a sweetened lemon. Enjoy with poached halibut.

Cities Wine Festival, it’s a hugely aromatic and a tasty blend of Gewürztraminer (60%) and Viognier all from the 2007 vintage. It’s akin to eating lemon chiffon yogurt, a fruit cocktail with lychee and pineapples, or slurping on an orange Creamsicle. Zippy acidity gives it terrific balance to the residual sugar (1.5%). Pair with ceviche or sautéed scallops.

Hoodsport Winery

Silver Lake Winery

2007 Chardonnay

2007 Cask Roza Riesling

Columbia Valley, 1,445 cases, 13% alc., $8

Rattlesnake Hills, 1,580 cases, 11.7% alc., $10

Excellent. Apple and pear notes sing out over

Outstanding! This publicly owned winery has

the top of toast and butter with a voluptuous and creamy entry. Refreshing acidity and balanced oak lets the Roza Hills fruit shine, along with just a sprinkle of sweetness. Enjoy this turkey breast, white fish or chicken Alfredo.

made remarkable comeback, in part because of the combined efforts of consistent fruit and the winemaking of John Zimmerman. He turned out a delicious offdry white that includes Chenin Blanc (17%)

sugar, it’s quite sweet, but the acidity allows it to finish dry.

Camas Prairie Winery NV Sparkling Wine with Natural Raspberry Washington, 85 cases, 12% alc., $20

Excellent. Most sparkling wines are meant to be

some white strawberries in the finish. Its tartness and acidity makes this a marvelous food wine, with wild salmon, Asian cuisine and fruitbased desserts among the many applications.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut Columbia Valley, 191,500 cases, 12.0% alc., $11

fun and drinkable, and this longtime Moscow, Idaho, vintner does that in a variety of ways. While his “Fred” is made from red grapes, this features an unmistakable dosage of raspberry juice. Indeed, it is very berry across the spectrum with freezer jam freshness on the tongue and skillful acid/sugar balance with a hint of peach and black cherries in the finish. It’s akin to Mixed Berry 7Up, only for adults.

Outstanding! Aromas of perfectly toasted bread, joined by fresh and tart Granny Smith apples lead to more Granny Smith apples on the palate with delicious snap to the acidity and perfectly balanced sweetness. Sparklers such as this transcend so many other styles of wine because its wide application for food. Enjoy this from salad to soup to steak.

Domaine Ste. Michelle

NV Blanc de Blancs

NV Extra Dry

Columbia Valley, 32,640 cases, 12% alc., $11

Columbia Valley, 51,900 cases, 12% alc., $11

Outstanding! In French, it means “white from

Excellent. Here’s an off-dry sparkler from the

white” and based on Chardonnay grapes. Abundant aromatics include Pink Lady apples, lemons, wedding cake, fresh linen, orchard blossoms and a bit of nuttiness. The bubbles create a very frothy and satiny palate featuring pears and more apples with toasted coconut in the background. Mouthwater acidity balances that fullness at the midpoint and completes itself in a dry finish.

Northwest’s largest producer, and it’s a crowd pleaser year after year. A delightful nose of apples and lemons includes floral spice notes. Tasty juicy Pink Lady apples with toasted bread notes and a hint of candy corn in the finish make this a festive brunch wine.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Noirs Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $11

Outstanding! The addition of Pinot Noir by Rick

Casqueiro gives this bubbly its pinkish hue and bright red fruit notes. Hints of strawberry shortcake, Red Vine licorice, crushed walnuts, cranberries and candy canes give way to a palate of Granny Smith and Fuji apples with W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

and features a bouquet of apricot, honey, lychee, rose water, jasmine and flannel. There’s more apricot and gorgeous tropical tones in the juicy, fat and round palate with some mouth-watering acidity and a finish of Southern-style sweet tea. The residual sugar is high (6.6%), but it’s not a distraction. Suggested food includes Mongolian beef.

Three Rivers Winery 2007 Estate Rosé Walla Walla Valley, 300 cases, 12% alc., $10

Outstanding! Holly Turner continues to turn out affordable and desirable wines in varied styles, including this fab Cab pink from Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Cabernet Franc. Dried strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry, raspberry and a hint of pear syrup fill the nose. The entry is clean, dry and gorgeous with light strawberries and pie cherries up front, then a cherry cobbler finish.

Kramer Vineyards NV Celebrate Semi-Sparkling Cuveé Rose Oregon, 65 cases, 12.5% alc., $14

Recommended. Judy Kramer crafts this fun and colorful 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with the Chardonnay fermented in steel. A fruity nose of cranberries, pomegranate, strawberries and plums transcends into canned plums and raspberries on the palate. It’s rich on the palate and finished fairly dry with a bit of tannin that will go well with holiday fare, including prime rib.

Nongrape Camas Prairie Winery NV Strawberry Mead Idaho, 50 cases, 11% alc., $13

Domaine Ste. Michelle Nonvintage Spumante Frizzante Columbia Valley, 25,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $11

Excellent. Here’s Rick Casqueiro’s sweet

sparkler, and he pulls it off in serious demi-sec style. It’s a complexity nose of pears and lemons with a pinch of tarragon and anise. There’s a festive and frothy entry with lemon/lime flavors and Asian pear tartness in the finish for balance. Suggested pairings include Thai, smoked salmon, fresh berries and Quiche Lorraine.

Outstanding! Idaho’s Stu Scott offers up a honey of

dessert wine during his 25th anniversary of winemaking in the Gem State. He has captured the essence of this combination of strawberries and honey outside and in, but there’s a lot in between with hints of orange peel and grenadine syrup. As one would expect, it’s delightfully sweet (10.7% residual sugar), but the abundance of acidity keeps it light, fresh and delightful. Enjoy this with salty cheeses, poached pears or poundcake drizzled with sherry. If you’ve never had a mead before, here’s the one to should start with.

Eaton Hill Winery NV Lot 07 Sun Glow Yakima Valley, 179 cases, 11% alc., $16

Excellent. Riesling grapes from McGuire Vineyard are blended with nectarine juice from 30-year-old trees off Rogers Orchard in delicious fashion. Juicy Fruit, stone fruit, hazelnut and parsley aromas are met with more tropical, apple and pear flavors with the arrival of nectarine in the finish.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

103

40 ... Label ads

12/8/08

6:55 PM

Page 104

WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO

“BEST RED WINE” ~ 2008 Northwest Wine Summit www.koenigvineyards.com • 208-455-8386 20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, ID 83607 Open Fri., Sat. & Sun. 12-5

40 ... Label ads

12/10/08

4:54 PM

Page 105

106 Vintage Musings

COLUMN

12/9/08

1:25 PM

Page 106

vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

A fitting tribute to Walter Clore

olumbia Crest’s Walter Clore Private Reserve is one of those wines that’s richly made yet is a veritable bargain for such a classic Bordeaux-style blend. It’s an equal of any preminum red in the land — regardless of cost. Priced at $35, this award-winning red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and sometimes a bit of Cabernet Franc can knock the socks off judges as it gains top awards around the country. The 2001 vintage earned a Platinum at the 2004 Wine Press Northwest Platinum Judging of gold-medal-winning wines. The 2005 vintage was voted best of class at the 2008 Tri-Cities Wine Festival judging. The Walter Clore often comes out on top of wines that cost $20 to $100 more, and it deserves to be one of those wines you lovingly stash in your wine cellar. The wine was introduced in 2002 when Doug Gore, vice president of wine operations at Columbia Crest, rechristened what had been known simply as the “Reserve Red.” A celebration was held on a sunny October day at the Paterson, Wash., winery, attended by Walter Clore, the man hailed as the “father of Washington wine” for the work he did to promote wine grapes in Eastern Washington beginning soon after he arrived at WSU’s Prosser research station in the late 1930s. Clore passed away just a few months later. I have a coveted bottled signed by him and Gore. Since then, there have been five more vintages, each an award winner in its own right. Back in 2002 at the wine unveiling event, Clore said he was pleased with the honor and happened to notice what a bargain the new wine is for consumers. “I read in a recent edition of Wine Spectator magazine that Opus One (the famous red blend collaboration of Robert Mondavi and the Rothschild family of France) earned a 93point rating (out of 100) and was priced at $150,” Clore said. “I also read that the Columbia Crest Walter Clore Reserve Red wine received a 92 rating (in the same edition of the magazine) and was priced at below $30 a bottle,” he added. His point continues to hold true. Washington and the rest of Pacific Northwest make world-class wines at bargain prices. Clore made lasting contributions to the state’s wine industry during his long life, so it seemed appropriate to immortalize his name on a bottle of Columbia Crest’s top wine. He worked 40 years at the Prosser research station and helped convince Eastern Washington farmers they could grow the grapes to produce world-class wines. Columbia Crest also has honored Clore by naming the area where the reserve wines are aged as the Walter Clore Barrel Room. When Columbia Crest, the Pacific Northwest’s largest win106

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 8 / 2 0 0 9

ery, celebrated its 25th anniversary at its giant Paterson headquarters last summer, it offered a vertical tasting of the Walter Clore lineup. Recently, I was afforded the opportunity to revisit the 2000 to 2004 vintages. In November, I got the chance — along with several hundred patrons at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival — to taste the 2005 edition. I didn’t get to taste the 1999 other than when it was first released, but I’ll do that from memory. Ray Einberger, who succeeded Gore as head winemaker for Columbia Crest and makes the Walter Clore red, described the award-winning red blend. “The finest hand-picked grapes were used in this blend of classic Bordeaux varieties,” he said. “Aging for two years in custom French barrels adds tremendous balance and length of finish. Aging occurs in the ‘Le Petit Chais,’ a cellar honoring the traditional winemaking techniques of Bordeaux used in crafting this wine.” It is a limited-production wine for Columbia Crest at 6,000 cases annually. The blend changes a bit from year to year, but the quality is constant. Furthermore, all of the wines are holding up quite well and should last a few more years. 1999 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley: In 2002, I wrote, “Black currants and hints of cedar aromas. The flavors are delicate with touches of milk chocolate, and the finish is extremely smooth.” 2000 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley: Still a rich wine with lovely silky mouthfeel, blueberries and some nice cocoa. 2001 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley: Tasty cherry and blackberry flavors with aromas of cinnamon and chocolate. 2002 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley: This one has a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon than most and shows a nice oak beginning with perfectly balanced berry flavors. 2003 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley: Big and chewy and has a wee bit of Cabernet Franc. A touch of coconut and slight minty aromas. Cherry/berry flavors with big tannins lead to a lingering finish. 2004 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley, $35: Still available at the winery. A complex mix of chocolate, cherries and blackberries form a lush combo of a delightful Bordeauxstyled wine. 2005 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley, $35: Opulent best describes this tasty red with a balanced oak beginning, smooth berry flavors and a rich tannin finish. A keeper. BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

107 Best Western ad

12/8/08

3:29 PM

Page 107

108 U-Line

12/8/08

3:32 PM

Page 108