Wine Press Fall 2014

PINOT NOIR REVIEWS / TASTE OF EUGENE / TRAVEL WHATCOM’S WINE TRAIL

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72 hours in the inland northwest

A wine lovers guide to the Northeast Washington and Northern Idaho.

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 18, No. 3

Fall 2014

NORTHWEST Feat u res

D e partme nts

14 72 Hours in the Inland Northwest

6 Wine Knows

Sipping your way through Spokane, Washington and Northern Idaho

26 Pinot Noir Tasting Results 36 Northwest Washington

Wine and Spirits Trail

42 A Taste of Eugene

Sample Oregon’s wine region at this downtown mecca

54 Match Makers

There’s more than wine at Westport Winery

Washington heads for the hills

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A Distant Perspective Finding the Greatness

10 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Insights of a wine tour guide

12 Nom de Vine: Stories Behind Wine Names Passing Time Winery

50 Northwest Wine Events 62 Grapes of Roth It’s all about Pinot….

Cover Story 72 Hours on the Inland Northwest On the cover: one of the two falls seen from Anthony’s Riverfront park area in Spokane.

On this page: the view from Spokane’s Arbor Crest vineyard Cover and Index Photos by Charity Lynne Burggraaf, Charity Lynne Photography 4

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WINE PRESS NORTHWEST Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran.

We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines.

We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Editor and Publisher: Gregg McConnell 509-582-1443 gmcconnell@winepressnw.com Contributor: Eric Degerman Contributor: Jade Helm Contributor: Andy Perdue Contributor: Dan Radil Tasting panel: Gregg McConnell, Kristine Bono, Jade Helm, Sabrina Lueck, Paul Sinclair, Heather Unwin, Mike Rader, Coke Roth Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Graphic designer: Misty Baker Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Andy Perdue Contributing photographers: Charity Lynne Burggraaf, Charity Lynne Photography Jade Helm, TastingPour.com Dan Radil, Freelance Wine Writer In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 E-mail: cperkins@winepressnw.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our web site www. winepressnw.com.

Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619, e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2014 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

Washington heads for the hills

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alla Walla collects the accolades, and Red Mountain gets the headlines. But in the end, the Horse Heaven Hills will be regarded as Washington’s most important grape-growing region.

It’s a bold statement, and the defenders of Red Mountain and Walla Walla could well be offended, but the Horse Heaven Hills already is there.

The Horse Heaven Hills is a huge swath of land south of the Yakima Valley. At 570,000 acres, it has enormous potential. It is bordered on two sides by the Columbia River and has an agricultural history that goes back well over a century. For the most part, it’s been known for row crops such as corn and carrots and huge amounts of dryland wheat.

The Horse Heaven Hills is Washington’s second-largest grape-growing area with nearly 12,000 acres of wine grapes (the Yakima Valley is the largest with about 17,000 acres). It’s also the fastest-growing region and could well take over the No. 1 spot in the next 15 years.

As recently as 2009, just about 9,000 acres of wine grapes were planted in the Horse Heaven Hills. That’s now nearly 12,000 acres, a 29 percent jump in just five years. If we look at red wine grapes only, we notice a 34.4 percent boost during that same period. And if we drill down to just Cabernet Sauvignon — the No. 1 wine grape in Washington — we see that the Horse Heaven Hills has increased by an astonishing 47 percent in that same period.

And we’re not just talking about lots of low-end, high-production grapes. Much of this is for high-quality wines driven by — you guessed it — Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

The first grapes in the region were planted

by Don Mercer in 1972. That vineyard, Mercer Ranch Vineyards, has been known as Champoux Vineyards since the 1990s. It’s

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home to some of the most-coveted Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington. In fact, the area around Champoux is a pretty nice neighborhood, with such vineyards as Phinny Hill, Double Canyon, Discovery and Palengat.

Most of the grapes for Quilceda Creek Vintners’ multiple 100-point Cabs came from this area known as Alderdale.

Count in such vineyards as Alder Ridge, Canoe Ridge (owned by Precept), Canoe Ridge Estate (owned by Ste. Michelle), Spice Cabinet and Destiny Ridge amid top plantings. Horse Heaven Vineyard, which is at Columbia Crest (and was planted by Paul Champoux back in the late 1970s), not only is a workhorse vineyard but also provides topend grapes for multiple brands. Earlier this year, the Aquillini family — which bought more than 500 acres of land on Red Mountain — has invested in the Horse Heaven Hills by purchasing Aldercreek Vineyard.

And to the east is The Benches, a vineyard controlled by Long Shadows founder Allen Shoup. It is not only considered one of the finest and most fascinating plantings in Washington, but it also might just be the most beautiful and dramatic setting for a vineyard anywhere.

The growth spurt is hardly finished. In fact, it’s just getting some steam. While Ste. Michelle has probably hit its limit on the amount of Riesling it needs, the Woodinville giant has a serious craving for red grapes, particularly Cab. This year, grower Rob Mercer added 300 acres of grapes to his vast vineyards. Next year, Rob Andrews of McKinley Springs already has 2,000 acres planted and will add 160 acres in 2015, 250 acres in 2016 and 250 acres in 2017 — most of which will go to Ste. Michelle. His brother Mike, owner of Coyote Canyon Vineyards, has scheduled another 150 acres to be planted in 2016.

This will add to his 1,135 acres already in the ground.

As it is everywhere in the West, water is the key factor in figuring out how the Horse Heaven Hills will grow. Fortunately, most growers have that puzzle solved. A few years ago, a change in law allowed farmers to use conservation methods to reduce water use in one area and apply it to newly purchased ground. For example, if a farmer converts row crops or orchards to vineyards, he will use less water (grapes require less). He can then take that water and use it on a different piece of nearby land. This means that for every acre converted to grapes, a farmer might be able to plant an additional acre without ever having to purchase more water.

Mercer, who is the third-largest grape grower in the Horse Heaven Hills, believes Washington will double its 50,000 acres of wine grapes in the next 15 years. And the Horse Heaven Hills will be the driving force behind it. He’s probably right.

The only thing not in the Horse Heaven Hills’ favor is tourism. Tasting rooms in this large, dusty area are few, and that isn’t likely to change. The exception is Columbia Crest, which receives maybe 50,000 visitors per year. Most of the travel near its southern border is along Interstate 84 — on the Oregon side of the Columbia River. However, Maryhill Winery, farther down the river in remote Goldendale, now attracts 100,000 visitors per year, so maybe there is an opportunity along Highway 14.

Regardless, the quality and quantity of red wine grapes coming from the Horse Heaven Hills will drive Washington’s future.

Andy Perdue is a wine journalist, author and judge. Learn more about wine at www. greatnorthwestwine.com.

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a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Finding the Greatness

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urgundy lovers say red Burgundy is the unchallenged king of red wine.

Many Americans would add California and Oregon, along with areas of New Zealand and Tasmania, to that list.

The problem for Pinot Noir lovers is that as new regions come on line making excellent Pinot Noirs and new consumers develop who have never tasted the great Burgundy as it once was made, the shorthand of wine (writing in lyrical prose about greatness) reduces the image of what great Burgundy is to a few generalized words. And here we reach an impasse.

That’s because the definition of a wine in words cannot ever take the place of a sniff and a sip, and to capsule the expected greatness in a wine with words that include such horridly inexact terms as “weight” or “concentration” is to make a mockery of the fact that at its best Pinot rarely is dark, thick red wine. Great Pinot Noir, in my mind, is about aroma and flavor, which usually is found in lighter-colored wines.

To make a wine that’s dark from the Pinot Noir grape is to defy Mother Nature’s desire. And here we come to a dilemma: the weightier a wine, the more likely it is that any flaws will be masked in the weight, not initially noticeable, but potentially ruinous over time.

In fact, much of this “weight = flavor” argument is so much hogwash that I can’t believe so many people still buy it. I have wines in my cellar that are well past prime, though they’re not all that old. When they were young, they had the color and weight I thought would age well. I learned a painful lesson.

Some of the best Pinot Noir-based wines I have that have indeed aged well are lighter in color. The lesson in this that wines from the best sites generally do best. And wines made to taste great when young often are seen later to be frauds. (Key point: Oak is not fruit and never will be.)

So is Burgundy, the real stuff, our only answer here?

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No, because even Burgundy ain’t what it used to be. This is the key message of Anthony Hanson, a Master of Wine, in his excellent work “Burgundy,” published in 1982 and revised in 1994 and which is still relevant today.

In the first few pages, Hanson spells out some of the key reasons why Burgundy has been forced to retrench in terms of quality.

A huge part of why is related to its success: demand for more and more Burgundy sparked the planting of areas that decades ago were known to be marginal in terms of great quality.

In particular, Hanson looked at the districts of the Yonne, the Cote d’Or, and Saone-et-Loire. He noted that in those three regions “Pinot Noir production had more than doubled in size in 30 years,” from the late 1950s to the late 1980s, following the discovery of Burgundy in the early 1980s by vast numbers of Americans.

He adds that in the Cote d’Or, which arguably makes the best reds in Burgundy, Pinot Noir plantings had risen by 73%! The clear implication is that later-planted sites were not likely to make wine as great as those vineyards planted before 1958. And imagine what Burgundy looks like in the last 20 years since the 1994 revision of his book! Since then, many Asian communities have discovered Burgundy.

One additional drawback for all wines, not only Burgundy: There is a nasty myth that the more you pay for wine the more you get.

Some properties have an in-the-industry reputation of delivering a lot less than the price indicates. Hanson notes this, too: “Many people (not just Americans) assume that if you pay top dollar, you will get top quality.

With Burgundy, this is rarely valid.”

Yet the myth is fostered: the highestscoring wines rise faster and higher in price, so a wine getting a 95 will rise faster and higher than one consistently getting 90. And the house that always gets a 95 stays there because reviewers (who almost never judge double-blind) have to protect their own repu-

tations by manufacturing equivalent scores to verify the scores they gave in the past. Truly self-fulfilling prophecy.

As a result, we have to look elsewhere from the scores for recommendations of the best wines. Scores are generally generated by lone tasters looking at labels and price-tags and getting to know who made the wine. The conclusion is based not only on the basis of what’s in the glass but what’s in the head.

Blind tastings provide a better sounding board. A taster may well have Burgundy on the brain when judging Pinot Noirs from the New World. But the reality is that the decision on issuing a recommendation is best made without regard to who made the wine.

When buying Pinot Noir, it’s best to focus on estate-bottled wines; they typically do better than non-estate wines for reasons hard to explain in this short a space. Here Hanson had a suggestion worth noting. He hints that reviews of this intransigent grape are rarely an efficient way for folks to determine what’s best for them.

“One cannot grasp Burgundy without drawing corks and talking. That is the only way,” said Hanson. He clearly believes, as I do, that score-perpetuation is never to be considered. He points out, for instance, that when trying to impress someone with a wine, often that’s done with a recognizable label and a familiar smell, such as Bordeaux.

He says Burgundy and high-caliber Pinot Noir “is for friends, I think, not for impressing people.” He says that “deep-colored Cabernet Sauvignons and chateaux names do that.”

Keep that in mind when buying. And observe the 3-4 year time frame from the vintage.

Dan Berger is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences. com).

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Insights of a wine tour guide

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ince April, I’ve had an interesting window into a rather select group of wine consumers from across the United States. They are all passengers taking a week-long cruise on the Columbia River aboard the American Empress, a 360-foot sternwheeler based in Vancouver, Wash., and in its inaugural year sailing the Columbia and Snake Rivers. And I’ve been their wine tour guide for shore tours to Walla Walla and Red Mountain in Washington.

They come from all over the United States, with California, Texas and the Southern states especially well represented. Since the American Queen Steamboat Co., which owns the American Empress also runs highly regarded Mississippi River tours, the number of Southerners aboard is no surprise.

But there also have been a few surprises, with Canadians and even Australians and New Zealanders riding the wine tour buses.

As a Northwesterner who’s lived in Kennewick, Wash., for 38 years and who has been writing about Northwest wines since 1978, my belief has been that the world of wine discovered our region’s fine wines at least two decades ago.

Well, since I started guiding the bus tours, I’ve discovered that the folks who are familiar with the fine Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris from Oregon and the matchless Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington are scarce indeed.

Here’s a sampling of my observations: 1. Of the 15-20 passengers typically aboard the bus, only two to four appear to have more than a passing knowledge of the Northwest’s wine regions, although about two-thirds of them are rather avid wine consumers.

2. Idaho and British Columbia are virtually unknown territories.

3. On each tour, usually only one couple plans to extend their stay in the Northwest to taste more wine. And usually, they plan to explore the Willamette Valley, not Walla Walla, Red Mountain or any of Washington’s other wine-producing areas.

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4. Malbec ranks higher on their wine radar than Merlot or Syrah. Maybe it’s partly the lingering effect of the movie “Sideways,” but many clearly like the South American-style wine bought at their hometown wine shops, supermarkets and liquor stores.

5. Our nation’s crazy liquor laws, many dating to the heyday of the Women’s Christian Temperance Union, remain a deterrent to folks who want to ship back home some of the wines they’ve discovered here. Perhaps it’s time for Congress to end the silly protectionist rules and the clear restraints of trade individual states and counties have devised.

6. Only two Northwest labels are commonly encountered in most of their home states — Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest.

7. Many are shocked when they taste Northwest Riesling for the first time. Even off-dry examples are not sweet enough to meet their expectations, and they find the crisp acidity of Northwest whites surprising and sometimes a shock to their palates.

8. Viognier, Roussanne, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc are known to a relative handful.

9. Sangiovese is the only Italian wine grape most have encountered.

10. Albariño, Tempranillo and the other Spanish varieties of wine grapes are virtually unknown.

11. And, like everyone else, they find Gewürztraminer unpronounceable. If ever a wine needs a good ad agency makeover, this is it.

What’s to be learned from this? Well, Washington especially needs a state agency to promote tourism. We’ve been resting on the long-dried-out laurels of the Seattle World’s Fair of 1962 for more than 50 years, and since the state scrapped its tourism agency back in the bleakest days of the recent recession, even wine lovers know little about us.

It’s hard to believe the same isn’t true about Washington tourism in general. There’s a reason that Oregon’s Willamette Valley is recognized by at least some of these tourists, yet Washington’s Red Mountain gets little love indeed.

Wine words: Veraison Careful readers who have been following this column for several years may recall that I chose this as the wine word several years back. It’s the French word derived from the Latin verb verto, which means to turn. It denotes the time when grapes turn from green toward red and purple hues. And it means harvest is only a few short weeks away.

I thought it was worth revisiting this year because 2014 is shaping up to be an unusually early vintage. The first reports of veraison began coming in from the Northwest’s vineyards in mid-July, following fast on the heels of an early July report by my colleague Eric Degerman of Great Northwest Wine that the 2014 grape-growing season was up to 50 percent ahead of the 40-year average, as measured in degree days. Eric’s report was based on statistics gathered by Greg Jones, a nationally recognized climatologist based at Southern Oregon University in Ashland, from four sites around Oregon. Washington State University’s records don’t show as marked a gain, but still are trending ahead of 2013, which was a very warm year.

Too much heat, however, can delay ripening. It may seem counterintuitive, but when temperatures rise above 95 degrees, as they did in mid-July and again as the month ended, the heat slows grape maturation. By the time the Wine Press Fall edition is printed, much of the uncertainty about how late summer weather will affect the 2014 crop will be resolved. But don’t be surprised to see pickers out in force by early to mid-September, perhaps in vineyard blocks that usually aren’t picked until two or three weeks later.

Even though hot weather does slow ripening, heat retained in the soil into the fall will speed ripening and likely push up this year’s harvest dates. And, with a little luck, a long, warm fall will include cool evenings, producing an outstanding vintage.

Ken Robertson has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

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nom de vine

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Passing Time Winery

By Jon Bauer

T

hat Damon Huard, following a successful college and pro career in football, would return to his native Washington state and start up a winery probably isn’t a huge surprise.

The guy who introduced Huard to how good Washington wine could be probably will be a surprise.

Huard, born in Yakima, played football for his Puyallup high school and was the starting quarterback for three seasons for the University of Washington Huskies from 1993 to 1995. He moved on to the NFL and played several years for the Miami Dolphins, New England Patriots and Kansas City Chiefs, ending his playing days in 2009.

But it was while he was 2,700 miles across the county in Miami from 1997 to 1999, where Huard, a rum and Coke drinker, was schooled in Washington wine.

Dolphin great Dan Marino would host parties for his teammates. Already a big fan of Washington wine, Marino noted where Huard was from.

“He was poring all these great Washington wines, Quilceda Creek, Col Solare, Leonetti, and asking if I’d ever tried them,” Huard said. “’These are right in your back yard,’ he said.”

Talks of a partnership began quickly, and the pair went looking to buy a vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills as early as 2001. That deal didn’t come to fruition, but that didn’t end the partnership.

“It remained our intention to get into the business,” Huard said. “We both have a passion for this. We really believe in Washington wine. This isn’t a vanity project. We’re not just looking for something to invest in. And we’ve got to prove that.”

They’re proving it now as they prepare to release their inaugural bottling, 500 cases of a Cabernet Sauvignon blend with fruit 12

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from the Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills balanced with Merlot from Red Mountain’s Klipsun Vineyard and Cabernet Franc from the Champoux Vineyard near Prosser.

The partners secured Chris Petersen as their winemaker, who is partner with Marty Taucher at the Avennia winery in Woodinville where Passing Time is made.

“Chris and I hit it off,” Huard said, and Dan Marino (left) and Damon Huard and in front of truck at Champoux was quickly sold on Vineyard in Washington State’s Horse Heaven Hills AVA. their focus of making big Cabs.

“But are those laces? Are they the posts in a The wine was vineyard?”

Huard said. bottled this June following 21 months in Mario’s wife, Claire, suggested the name, French oak and will be released in spring which already was the name of the Marinos’ of 2015. vacation home.

But it fits nicely.

The goal is to work up to production “It’s what you’re doing when you’re with of 1,000 cases a year, “but always Caberyour family, you’re hanging out with friends, net,” Huard said. And always wine that enjoying an awesome glass of wine. You’re celebrates the individual vineyards. passing time,” Huard said.

“But, also, when Huard hopes to eventually produce it’s third down in the red zone and you’re a Horse Heaven Hills Cab, a Red down by six with seconds left in the game Mountain Cab and a Walla Walla and you’ve got to score, it’s passing time.”

Cab, which would allow wine lovers Passing Time is taking reservations for its to taste the differences among the 2012 Cabernet, $75 a bottle, $900 a case at separate terroirs. its website, www.PassingTime.com.

“We want to celebrate that. Have

that same variety, that same vintage, Jon Bauer is Wine Press Northwest’s Salish but they can be so different. We Sea correspondent. The longtime newspaperwant to celebrate the place,” he said. man lives near La Conner, Wash.

With Passing Time, Huard and Marino aren’t hiding their connection to football, but they’re also not plastering their photos on the label.

The bottle makes a subtle reference, a raised cross-hatching that suggests a football’s laces.

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Greg Lipsker, co-owner and co-winemaker at Barrister Winery on Railroad Avenue in Spokane.

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72 Hours in the

Inland Northwest

// By Eric Degerman Photography by charity burggraaf

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ine collector Bing Crosby, who dropped out of Gonzaga law school in 1925 to seek fame, would be proud to sing the praises of the wine scene in his hometown.

Between Spokane, Spokane Valley and the Idaho Panhandle cities of Coeur d’Alene and Sandpoint, there are 19 wineries and five tasting rooms. A Spokane city councilman has even created a marketing concept for the Inland Northwest’s emerging wine scene, coining it “The Cork District” with references to the “Spokane Valley Cluster” and “Mount Spokane Cluster.”

To help gain respect among visitors, these winemakers readily point out they rely on WINEPRESSN W .C O M

some of the same vineyards their friends in Walla Walla use for international acclaim.

Forty years ago, Spokane was known as the heart of the Inland Empire. Thankfully, environmentally themed Expo ’74 stripped much of Spokane’s industrial feel and removed skid road. Historians remember the World’s Fair in part because President Nixon opened it in person — amid shouts of “Jail to the Chief.”

President Ford closed it by proxy.

But the 21st century revitalization of downtown Spokane (population 209,000) stems from Walt and Karen Worthy’s $36.5 million purchase and restoration of The Davenport Hotel. From 1985 to 2000, Louis Davenport’s iconic hotel stood out as

a 14-story marble-floored shipwreck in the heart of the city. Fears of asbestos fallout may have been the only thing that spared the birthplace of the Crab Louie from demolition.

Fortunately, The Davenport Hotel celebrates its centennial anniversary this September. And since its re-opening in 2002, support for it is virtually unanimous among those with ties to commerce or tourism.

“It has meant everything,” said Barrister Winery’s Greg Lipsker, a Gonzaga University grad who shares ownership and winemaking duties with longtime friend Michael White.

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The Davenport Hotel is an elegant base of operation for wine visitors and is in the heart of the arts district.

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known as the Davenport Arts District.

Nearby train traffic imparts subtle vibrations on their underground barrel room and sleeping wines, which makes for a unique Northwest experience. It’s just one ingredient that helps Barrister annually produce one of the country’s most acclaimed examples of Cabernet Franc, and its smooth Rough Justice red blend ranks as one of Spokane’s favorite wines.

Near the Amtrak station, a few blocks to the east, physician/pilot/winemaker Joe Gunselman and well-hatted wife Rebecca specialize in award-winning reds from the Horse Heaven Hills, where they wisely planted vines a few years after launching their ultra-urban winery on Pacific Avenue in 1999. Call them at 888-4CLARET. Between those two Spokane anchor wineries are a number of smaller wineries and tasting rooms, including Arbor Crest Wine Cellars’ third-floor tasting gallery near Nordstrom in River Park Square.

A couple of blocks north of Interstate 90, the two-floor tasting room/winery of Gary Hustad’s Italian-themed Barili Cellars pours award-winning reds made from Shaw Vineyards on Red Mountain and Dineen Vineyard in the Yakima Valley.

In the Freeman Center on Second Avenue — between Barrister and Barili — Grande Ronde Cellars pulls Bordeaux varieties from Walla Walla Valley vineyards Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. Caterer/turned winemaker Dave Westfall bottle ages his wines more than three years before release. That care shows, and he combines catered food, live music and art.

Last year, EMVY Cellars and BridgePress Cellars, which also source from Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills, began sharing space and a tasting room as Market Place Wineries, near Robert Karl.

No one has a stronger Walla Walla presence in Spokane than Cougar Crest Estate Winery. The Hansens, who used cuttings from Seven Hills in their own Walla Walla Valley vineyard, moved kitty corner from The Davenport in 2011. And directly across the street from the entrance to The Davenport is the tasting room for Patit Creek. A cheesemonger dotes a full display case from the West Coast and beyond while small plates are paired with wines made at its Walla Walla airport winery.

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Whitestone Winery produces its wines in the Palouse town of Creston with 20-yearold estate vines along the shores of Lake Roosevelt, but Spokane native Michael Haig also operates a tasting bar next door to Cougar Crest.

The biggest character in the region’s wine industry might be Jerry Gibson, founding winemaker at Overbluff Cellars. The charming, self-taught golden ager skillfully creates a variety of wines from the Walla Walla Valley, including a suave Cab called LSD underneath a tie-dyed label. Gibson now works for an ownership group that includes Anvil Coffee roaster Mark Camp, but he still pours it on at the tasting room from bottles he trusts to the VinoLok glass stopper. If its master plan holds, Overbluff will be moving from the northern flank of the South Hill and creating a buzz in the Amtrak neighborhood.

Two of Spokane’s newest wineries are V du V Wines and Vintage Hill Cellars. John Morrow and Kirk Phillips boiled it down

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The courtyard at Barrister Winery

Sunday concerts at Arbor Crest can be festive.

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The tasting room at Pend d’ Orielle Winery 18

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from Vin du Van, a legacy of their early days when some of their Adams County grapes were fermented in the back of a van. Vintage Hill works with distinguished vineyards such Les Collines, Seven Hills and several belonging to the Milbrandt brothers.

Visiting two of the state’s oldest wineries means a trip east of downtown. Arbor Crest started in 1982 and produces 20,000 cases, making it the biggest. It also features the largest commercial vineyard — a small block just below the historic Cliff House and planted to Burgundian varieties. Those grapes have been used in sparkling wine, but talented winemaker Kristina Mielke-van Löben Sels and her husband, Jim, slowly are sacrificing those family-planted vines to increase parking for the weekly outdoor concert series. Some nights, more than 1,000 fans stroll the manicured grounds, listen to local musicians and drink from the Arbor Crest, van Löben Sels and Avansino labels while looking out from the rocky promontory across the Spokane Valley with the Spokane skyline in the distance. The dangers of the 450-foot basalt cliffs, sensitive relics and the nature of the business make it an adult-only facility.

This year, Parducci-trained Mike Conway also celebrated the 32nd anniversary of Latah Creek Wine Cellars, just a stone’s throw away from I-90 and along the road to Spokane Valley Mall. That traffic — combined with consumer-friendly wines, well-appointed gift shop and distribution model — allow him and his cookbook-writing wife Ellena to sell their 13,000 cases. These days, daughter Natalie handles much of the winemaking and day-to-day operations.

A mile or so west, you’ll find Nodland Cellars, where winemaking attorney Tim Nodland continues to receive praise for his Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon and $15 red blend called Bad Attitude.

Between Spokane’s Felts Field and I-90, Knipprath Cellars remodeled the old Parkwater Schoolhouse on Commerce Avenue and built a reputation as one of the Northwest’s most dedicated producers of fortified wines.

Don Townshend heads up the Mount Spokane Cluster, and he began his eponymous winery with the 1998 vintage as a result of his relationship with Columbia Valley pioneering winemaker Bill Preston.

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inland northwest

A few years ago, Townshend took control of local brands Caterina, Lone Canary and Mountain Dome, while his own winery has grown in the range of 20,000 cases. Success with his T3 — one of the state’s first popular proprietary red blends — helped Townshend build a tasting room on Green Bluff Road.

Of those acquisitions, only Mountain Dome continues to produce, and Erik Manz’s bubbles now are poured at Townshend.

Nearby, there’s Trezzi Winery & Farm, which began with California grapes, but its small vineyard in Green Bluff allows it to make about 300 cases of estate wine from Italian varieties such as Barbera and Pinot Gris.

Toward the eastern part of Spokane County, Liberty Lake Wine Cellars celebrates its 10th harvest this fall, but co-owner Doug Smith is in just his first full year as a full-time winemaker for the 500-case brand.

Wine tourists also have reason to venture beyond Stateline and its disreputable relics of the dangerous days along I-90 when the Gem State was an outlier with its drinking

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Latah Creek Wine Cellars, just off Interstate 90 is well worth a visit.

The nectar tasting room in downtown Spokane offers samples from five wineries.

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age at 19.

Early on, Coeur d’Alene Cellars owner Kimber Gates modeled her downtown tasting room and bistro after that of J. Bookwalter in Richland, Wash. She’s since pulled back into her production facility north of I-90 and re-launched the Barrel Room No. 6 concept.

Her series of Syrahs, from top Washington growers such as Dick Boushey, has ranked among the finest in the Northwest.

One of the best stories in the Idaho wine industry is found near the shores of Lake Pend Oreille (Pon-der-ray) in downtown Sandpoint. Next year marks the 20th anniversary of Pend d’Oreille Winery, but it will be the first full year for Stephen and Julie Meyer’s renovation of the historic Belwood Building.

A retired accountant and past winner of Wine Press Northwest’s Idaho Winery of Year, Stephen relies on some of the Columbia Valley’s top vineyards for his award-winning program that includes his flagship Bistro Rouge. Each year, the proprietary red blend

ranks as one of the Northwest’s best values and also serves as the centerpiece of his Think Green, Drink Red program — a refillable magnum that blazed the trail in the Northwest for wine growlers. It also stimulates tasting room traffic year-round.

This fall, a pair of Meyer’s ski buddies at Schweitzer — Jon Harding and Patrick Werry — gives Sandpoint its second winery.

Their Super Tuscan-style wine from Red Mountain is worth an appointment at Small House Winery.

To get a snapshot of five wineries based outside the Inland Northwest, there’s Nectar Wine Bar in downtown Spokane across the street from the Parkade. Josh Wade used his blog to not only educate himself but also to build an audience before launching his tasteful and hip tasting gallery that features Anelare in Benton City, Hard Row to Hoe in Lake Chelan, Northwest Cellars in Kirkland, Skylite in Walla Walla and Grandview-based Smasne Cellars — Wine Press Northwest’s 2013 Washington Winery of the Year.

They all stand to benefit next year when just around the block, the Worthys open their 750-room, 15-story Grand Hotel Spokane — the largest convention hotel in Eastern Washington. Spokane wineries, hoping for a presence in the lobby, a la The Marcus Whitman in Walla Walla, have been told there are no plans for any retail space in the Grand.

Other ways to grab local wines are to visit Vino! Wine Shop on Washington Street, the new Mezzo Pazzo Wine Bar on the South Hill or Huckleberry’s Natural Market, also on the South Hill but much closer to downtown.

Lodging The opportunity to spend a single night at The Davenport Hotel and touch the history is worth a trip to Spokane. Ask to stay in the original section designed in 1914 by Kirtland Cutter, whose Northwest architecture includes the Rainier Club in Seattle.

The Davenport Collection also takes in the

Sesame Seared Ahi Tuna with house-made creamy wasabi sauce at the Peacock Room in the Davenport Hotel.

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nearby Tower and Hotel Lusso. Other worthy options include Hotel Ruby and the Roberts Mansion B&B. In Spokane Valley, check into Mirabeau Park Hotel.

The world-famous Coeur d’Alene Resort offers first-rate accommodations and service.

Those looking for something less touristy should look at the historic Roosevelt Inn. In Sandpoint, the luxurious Talus Rock Retreat is a mile from downtown but wouldn’t be out of place in Sun Valley or Tahoe. Yet this remarkable lodge and spa spreads a portion of its proceeds to children’s causes locally and around the world.

Food Despite the awards that Spokane wineries continue to earn, their wines have not won the support they deserve from locally owned restaurants. Oddly, some list Spokaneproduced wines yet make it difficult — if not impossible — for out-of-town guests to pick them out. That’s a shame.

Among the few that do highlight local wines is Anthony’s at Spokane Falls, which also offers perhaps the best view of any restaurant in town, especially when the river runs high. Winemakers also gush about local wine-and-food program at Masselow’s in

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Northern Quest Resort & Casino near the Spokane airport.

Mizuna and Wild Sage also pair creative Northwest-inspired cuisine with Spokane wines, as does the new Wandering Table at Kendall Yards. Ask for the fun “You Choose the Price” option.

Downtown winemakers have been making the 10-minute drive to Audubon Park and regionally focused Downriver Grill for more than a decade. Luna’s history of fine dining and placement for 10 local wineries is worthy of the trip to the southern rim of the South Hill.

Try this country-style hash for breakfast at the Sante Restaurant & Charcuterie in downtown Spokane.

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The Davenport offers the type of dining options — led by the Palm Court Grill — atmosphere and service that business travelers and tourists expect from a AAA Four Diamond hotel. For those who seek a quick change of pace and adventure, hop across the street to NUDO Ramen House for a bowl of Spicy Miso and a quenching glass of Riesling.

Come morning, you won’t’ find a heartier breakfast than at Wandering Table’s nearby Yards Bruncheon. Santé combines coffee, pastry and some of the region’s best charcuterie for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Those focused on coffee and pastry should stroll to Madeleine’s Cafe & Patisserie on Main. If it’s just coffee, Atticus features locally roasted beans and an eclectic gift shop.

In Coeur d’Alene, Beverly’s on the seventh floor of the resort combines one of the Northwest’s top wine lists with one of the area’s top chefs and offers an unparalleled view of the lake. The Cellar at 317 Sherman downtown employs the Enomatic preservation system, specializes in regional wines with Northwest-inspired cuisine, and backs it all with live music.

This summer, Pend d’Oreille Winery opened its new The Bistro Rouge Café adjacent to their tasting room. The Meyers hired an award-winning chef from Los Angeles and will use a tap system to feature not only their own wines but also wines from others in the Northwest and beyond.

Other activities Spokane’s riverfront continues to attract thoughtful development and builds upon the legacy of the World’s Fair. The Spokane Falls SkyRide, named last year by CondeNast as one of the world’s top scenic cable rides, provides breathtaking views of the river as it first did in 1974. Another unique Northwest features is the Looff Carousel, circa 1909, which made Riverfront Park its home in 1975.

Below the iconic Washington Water Power substation and the Monroe Street Dam are the new City Plaza and redesigned Huntington Park, a gift to the city by the regional power company. It opens up the lower falls to the public.

The best way to get a feel for Spokane is the self-guided, well-marked City Drive. The 90-minute roundtrip tour takes in historic homes, landmarks, Manito Park and other natural features. However, on Friday nights in July and August, sit back as Highfalutin and her brother Manly Stanley supply the horsepower for free, family-friendly carriage rides through downtown Spokane.

Wholesome activities also await at the Green Bluff Growers, particularly at the family-themed Walter’s Fruit Ranch. Call ahead to schedule a tour and trip on the Fruit Loop Express. North of Coeur d’Alene is the regionally acclaimed Silverwood Theme Park.

Spokane boasts one of the country’s best collection of municipal golf courses, with scenic Indian Canyon as the crown jewel. The Inland Northwest counts 33 course, public and private. Perhaps the most famous is the Coeur d’Alene Resort course with its floating green.

Cycling is huge in the region, and the 37mile Spokane Centennial Trail runs through Riverfront Park, connects with the North Idaho Centennial Trail and creates a 60-mile path with Coeur d’Alene.

There’s a rich history in the region surrounding Spokane Tribe of Indians and the Kalispel Tribe of Indians, with Northern Quest Resort & Casino standing as a modern sign of the Kalispels’ influence.

Sandpoint, just 60 miles south of British Columbia, sits between Schweitzer Mountain and Lake Pend Oreille, the fifth-deepest lake in the United States. The Kalipsels’ presence in Sandpoint is featured at the Bonner County Historical Museum near Lake Pend Oreille.

Getting to the Inland Northwest

The Spokane Falls SkyRide is breathtaking.

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Interstate 90, the country’s longest freeway, spans from Seattle to Boston and splits both Spokane and Coeur d’Alene (pop. 38,388).

There’s an idea to build a marketing campaign trying to convince jet-setting wine tourists to fly into Spokane and spend time in the Cork District before driving to Walla Walla. After all, it’s less than a three-hour drive between to the two regions, which means about two hours less time in the car for those who choose to land at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. A 20-minute drive WINEPRESSNW.COM

inland northwest east of Spokane Valley leads to the Lake City of Coeur d’Alene. Sandpoint is 50 miles due north on Highway 95.

When to visit Ask a native and they’ll admit winter in the Inland Northwest gets brutal and snow can arrive early. I recall trick-or-treating on Spokane’s South Hill in knee-deep powder.

On the other side of winter, golfers don’t expect to hit their tree-shaded city courses until Tax Day. Spokane wineries stage regular events around Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day weekend and Thanksgiving weekend, but the emergence of Kendall Yards between the Monroe Street and Maple Street bridges spawned an August walk-around pouring called “The Wines by the Yards” featuring all members of the Spokane Winery Association.

But up at Sandpoint, where seemingly everyone lives to ski at Schweitzer, Pend

d’Oreille Winery opens each day because the community is home to an arts community that plays outdoors year round. The town’s signature event — The Festival at Sandpoint — spans 10 days in early August and concludes with its Taste of the Stars wine pouring by more than 30 Northwest vintners. (Expect to see the executive director of the Idaho Wine Commission there.) Its open-air concert lineup during the 31-year history has included Johnny Cash, Lyle Lovett and Wynton Marsalis as well as the Spokane Symphony.

More info VisitSpokane, a nonprofit economic development group, actively promotes wine tourism in Spokane County and operates a robust website with information on wineries and tasting rooms. The site also serves as a handy portal for suggestions on lodging, dining, shopping and recreation. In fact, there’s

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an interactive feature called Trip Builder that allows website visitors to create an online itinerary by clicking on wineries, restaurants, lodging and recreational activities. It also links to the Spokane Winery Association site at SpokaneWineries.net. The Davenport Hotel Collection site includes a Cork District section and map.

A good place to get started for the Idaho Panhandle is the state’s tourism site at VisitIdaho.org. Coeurdalene.org starts by highlighting the Inland Northwest’s 55 lakes.

Sandpoint.com prominently promotes The Festival, but it also provides suggestions for most everything a tourist would want.

Eric Degerman is co-founder and CEO of Great North-

west Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

A typical room in the Roosevelt Inn B&B in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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Red Mountain Adds dinners to Sept. 27 Block Party Red Mountain AVA, Benton City, Wa.– One of the premiere wine events in the midColumbia, the Red Mountain Block Party, just got even more special with the addition of winemaker dinners. The dinners will be held Friday, Sept. 26, at 6 p.m. according to Heather Unwin, executive director of the Red Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA).

The dinners will be intimate food and Red Mountain wine experiences as each dinner is limited to between 10 and 28 guests depending on the dinner. The dinners will be hosted at winery venues on Red Mountain. Several locations will partner with winemakers who are making Red Mountain AVA Wines but have wineries elsewhere. Participation requires a separate ticket from the Block Party.

Red Mountain AVA Alliance Board president Tim Hightower said, “Adding these dinners to the beginning of the weekend was a natural progression for this event because great food and great wine are synergistic. We have an incredible group of chefs travelling to Red Mountain. The chefs I’ve spoken to are very excited about the opportunity to come to Red Mountain and pair their food with our wines.

They are particularly excited to have each dinner limited to such a small number of guest because it expands the possibilities of what they can create.”

Dinner tickets are $125 per person and can be purchased at redmountainblockparty. eventbrite.com.

Participating wineries and chefs include: • Au Clair Winery & Kiona Vineyard & Winery at Kiona, Chef Molly Williams • Col Solare, Canvasback by Duck horn & Force Majeure, Director of Culinary, Chef John • Sariah, St. Michelle Wine Estates • Cooper – A Red Mountain Winery, Chef Craig Refiner, Executive Chef, Cooper – A Red • Mountain Winery • Frichette Winery & Native Sun, Chef Autumn Brown, Ethos Trattoria • Hamilton Cellars, Chef Andy Craig, Castle Catering • Hedges Family Estate, Chef William Belickis, Mistral Kitchen • Hightower Cellars, Executive Chef Mark Bodinet, Roy Breiman, Culinary Director, • Copperleaf at Cedarbrook Lodge • Monte Scarlatto Estate, Chef to be announced • Terra Blanca Winery and Estate Vineyard, Executive Chef Jamie Callison, Washington • State University 24

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P i n o t N o ir :

Oregon P inot N o irs contin ue t o shine

By Andy Perdue P Ho tos by Bob Brawd y

T

here are rarely easy vintages in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Pinot Noir is a difficult, brooding grape to grow, and this coastal area tucked between the Cascade Mountains and Coast Range is on the edge of viticultural viability.

Yet Oregon grape growers and winemakers persevere. Low-yielding crops, clonal selections and absurdly difficult growing practices go into chasing the most elusive of goals: great Pinot Noir.

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tasting, we focused on Northwest Pinot Noir from Oregon, Washington and Idaho. The top four wines — all from Oregon — represented the last four vintages, all of which were exceedingly different.

Yet winemakers excelled throughout.

Decades of practice dealing with vagaries of weather in the Willamette Valley make even the rain-drenched harvest of 2013 seem like just another adventure on the wine trail.

The judges for this competition were: Gregg McConnell, editor and publisher of Wine Press Northwest magazine; Jade Helm,

a freelance wine writer living in Oregon; Kristine Bono, evangelist for Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser, Wash.; Sabrina Lueck, enology instructor at Walla Walla Community College; Coke Roth, wine columnist for Wine Press Northwest; Heather Unwin, executive director of the Red Mountain AVA Alliance; Mike Rader, Great Northwest Wine tasting panelist; and Paul Sinclair, Great Northwest Wine tasting panelist.

Here are the results:

Outstanding Anam Cara Cellars $32 2011 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Sheila and Nick Nicholas planted their vineyard in 2001 in a tucked-away corner of the Chehalem Mountains, not far from the city of Newberg, Ore. Though from a challenging vintage, this Pinot Noir exudes elegance and delight, thanks to aromas of wintergreen, red currant, cranberry and even a hint of toasted marshmallow. It’s a lighter style of wine that is giving a hint at its ability to WINEPRESSNW.COM

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WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Prices are suggested retail.

mature and evolve into something even more complex. A smokiness on the palate leads to flavors of baked cherry pie and bright notes of raspberry on the memorable finish. (1,700 cases, 12.4% alc.)

Stanton Vineyard $22 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Charlie Stanton and Julie Gemmell planted WINEPRESSN W .C O M

their vineyard in the southern Willamette Valley in 2005, and the wines are crafted at Boedecker Cellars in Portland. This is a beautifully balanced and understated Pinot Noir with wonderful aromas of raspberry, red currant and strawberry. On the palate, a sexy earthiness intermingles with flavors of bright red fruit and a hint of orange zest. It’s a wine perfectly suited to pair with pork tenderloin, turkey or prime rib. (75 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Division Villages $19 2013 Methode Carbonique Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Division Winemaking Co. in Portland has made its own twist on Beaujolais, known for its nouveau-style wines that are fresh and fun. The grapes come from the Eola-Amity Hills near Salem, and the grapes were fermented in a cement cylinder using whole-cluster carbonic maceration.

It never saw a bit of oak. The result is a bright, rich wine with aromas of pie cherry, cranberry and orange peel, followed by flavors of hightoned red fruit backed with pure elegance. (210 cases, 12.5% alc.)

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Lumos Wine Co. $38 2010 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon Owner/winemaker Dai Crisp has managed famed Temperance Hill Vineyard since 1999 and today is crafting some of Oregon’s finest wines from its grapes. This offers a refreshing minerality throughout and shows off aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry and cranberry backed with well-integrated tannins and layers of complexity. The near-perfect acidity lifts the bright fruit, allowing it to shine throughout the lengthy and impressive finish. (243 cases, 12.9% alc.)

Joleté Wines $28 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Joleté is a label for Le Cadeau Vineyard in Dundee, Ore., that uses non-estate grapes.

Winemaker Jim Sanders has crafted a truly delicious and full-flavored Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of spicy raspberry, strawberry jam and a hint of lavender. On the palate, it reveals flavors of bright red fruit backed by wonderful acidity.

Throughout, this wine shows strength of character without the presence of bold tannins. This should pair beautifully with braised meats, lentil stew or turkey. (330 cases, 14.1% alc.)

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Winter’s Hill Estate $25 2012 Watershed Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Longtime Dundee Hills winery Winter’s Hill created this wine, which pays tribute to the fact that its vineyard borders the watersheds for two nearby communities. This is one of several Winter’s Hill Pinot Noirs being crafted by Delphine Gladhart, and it might just be her best effort. It opens with aromas of fresh cranberry, rhubarb and just a hint of vanilla and cocoa powder. On the palate, it reveals flavors of red currant jam, dried cranberry and strawberry jam. It’s an elegant wine with a clean, tart finish. (436 cases, 14% alc.)

D’Anu $30 2012 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Owner/winemaker Joe Williams used grapes from Vista Hills Vineyard in Oregon’s Dundee Hills for this bright, lively and delicious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of sweet spices, raspberry and Rainier cherry. On the palate, bright acidity lifts the flavors of red currant, pie cherry and red and black currant. It is seamless throughout and finishes with length and elegance. (56 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Hyland Estates $38 2012 Pinot Noir, McMinnville Longtime Oregon winemaker Laurent Montalieu was trained in his native France before arriving in Oregon, where he oversaw WillaKenzie Estate for several years. Today, he produces wine for several labels, including his own Hyland Estates, which uses grapes from the eponymous vineyard in the somewhat remote McMinnville AVA. This is a gorgeous Pinot Noir with high-toned red fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cranberry and pomegranate, all backed with exotic spices and bright, lightly acidity.

This is an easy wine to love. (1,000 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Carlton Cellars $30 2011 Road End Estate Cape Lookout Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Longtime grape grower and winemaker Dave Grooters named this for one of his favorite locations on the Oregon coast, and he uses grapes from his estate vineyard in the vaunted Yamhill-Carlton area of the northern Willamette Valley. On the nose, this shows off aromas of strawberry jam, white pepper and cherry pie. On the palate, it reveals more of the same, all backed with firm acidity and a hint of strawberry leaf and rose petal. (984 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Dobbes Family Estate $28 2012 Grand Assemblage Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Longtime Oregon winemaker Joe Dobbes rose to fame while heading up Willamette Valley Vineyards. Since leaving there to run his own business, Dobbes has continued to impress at all price levels. This delicious Pinot Noir opens with delicate aromas of cherry, strawberry, rose petals and a whisper of smoke. On the palate, it offers flavors of black cherry, black tea, a hint of chocolate and ripe raspberry on the finish. This wine is still developing and should continue to gain complexity for years to come. (2,000 cases, 14.2% alc.)

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Le Cadeau Vineyard $80 2011 Rocheux Pinot Noir, Oregon Winemaker Jim Sanders crafted this superb Pinot Noir for owners Tom and Deb Mortimer using grapes from the west side of their estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains. It opens with aromas of black cherry, raspberry and Timothy hay, followed by silky flavors of wintergreen, red currant, pomegranate and a sensual earthiness on the finish. It is a delicious wine. (70 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Excellent Bradley Vineyards $26 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir, Elkton Oregon This is among the first Pinot Noirs we’ve tasted from Oregon’s newest appellation, which is in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. It opens with aromas of mild oak, raspberry and mint, followed by flavors of plum and black tea. Velvety tannins give way to a long finish. It’s a living tribute to grower/winemaker John Bradley, who passed away earlier this year. (46 cases, 15.2% alc.)

Portlandia Vintners $25 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Damian Davis, owner of Rainier Wine Co. in Seattle, has expanded his reach into Oregon with this fun label and superb wine. Winemaker Judy Thoet crafts this Pinot Noir in Dundee and has created a luscious and complex red with aromas of savory, black currant and lavender, followed by flavors of plum, black cherry and a hint of white pepper. It’s all beautifully balanced. (2,500 cases, 13.95% alc.)

Elk Cove Vineyards $60 2012 Five Mountain Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell is crafting some of Oregon’s finest whites and reds.

Five Mountain is an estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains with views of Hood, Jefferson, Adams, St. Helens and Rainier. This is a bright, sexy wine with a hint of cola alongside aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry and vanilla. (532 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Barnard Griffin $18 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon About 35 years ago, Rob Griffin produced a Pinot Noir while head winemaker at Preston Wine Cellars in Pasco, Wash. It won best in show at an Oregon wine competition, much to the consternation of Oregon winemakers. Griffin is back with a superb Pinot Noir, this time using grapes from near Arlington, Ore. It opens with pretty aromas of violet, lavender, rose petals and raspberry, followed by rich and juicy flavors of cranberry and strawberry. (1,000 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Apolloni Vineyards $50 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Apolloni Vineyards is in the northern Willamette Valley near the town of Forest Grove, Ore. This is a bright, young and expressive Pinot Noir with

aromas of rhubarb and red plum, followed by smooth flavors of Rainier cherry and raspberry.

Mild tannins provide just enough structure to give this wonderful and elegant balance. (48 cases, 14.5% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $50 2011 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Jason Bull is the longtime winemaker at this Forest Grove, Ore., producer, and he has crafted yet another elegant and complex Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of dusty cherry, Marionberry, maple, clove and pomegranate. Silky tannins provide all the structure this luscious wine needs. (120 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Left Coast Cellars $35 2012 Right Bank Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This winery near Salem, Ore., is producing superb Pinot Noirs. This example, opens with aromas of vanilla, black cherry and raspberry. Rich, thick flavors of black cherry and cola are backed with moderate tannins and ample acidity. (257 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Citation $60 2003 Pinot Noir, Oregon Citation is the premium, cellar-aged label for Firesteed Cellars. This wine is more than a decade old and is really showing beautifully. Aromas of cherry, cranberry and rhubarb lead to flavors of red currant and plum. There’s a complex earthy undercurrent, and this bottling is showing no real sign of age yet. (311 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Aubichon Cellars $45 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Aubichon is a Dundee, Ore., winery run by winemaker Jim Sanders and co-owned by Le Cadeau’s Tom Mortimer. This superb wine opens with aromas of cocoa powder, black cherry, black currant and a whisper of smoke, followed by succulent flavors of cherry, pomegranate and cranberry. It is a bright, luscious wine. (100 cases, 13% alc.)

Adelsheim Vineyard $55 2011 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Owner David Adelsheim designates the best barrels in his cellar for this reserve-level Pinot Noir, and it never disappoints. This example from a challenging vintage offers aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry and currant, followed by delicate flavors of minerally earth, black truffle and bright red cherry. (2,312 cases, 13% alc.)

ArborBrook Vineyards $45 2012 Origin 1866 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Owners Dave and Mary Hansen run this operation in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains near the town of Newberg. This is a blend of four clones that come together to create a superb Pinot Noir loaded with aromas and flavors of strawberry, red currant and cocoa powder. On the palate, it’s WINEPRESSNW.COM

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loaded with flavors of raspberry tart, pie cherry and steely minerality. (425 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Aubichon Cellars $37 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This is a classic Oregon Pinot Noir, showing off rich aromas of minerally earthiness, ripe strawberry and violets, followed by flavors that reveal strawberry, raspberry and other red fruit. It’s all backed by plush, velvety tannins and great length.

(230 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $16 2010 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley The Stowe family in Idaho’s Snake River Valley has long produced delicious Pinot Noirs, and winemaker Mike McClure has crafted the best Gem State wine from this competition. It offers aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry and red currant, followed by flavors of watermelon, raspberry and pie cherry. (900 cases, 12.6% alc.)

Anam Cara Cellars $55 2011 Nicholas Vineyard Wadenswil Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Wadenswil was one of the original clones of Pinot Noir brought to Oregon in the 1960s. Though it fell out of favor for the newer Dijon clones in the past 15 years, winemakers are again turning back to this reliable favorite. This clone-designated Pinot Noir opens with aromas of mint and dried cherry, followed by flavors of cranberry, red currant and even blueberry. It is a superb example of Pinot Noir. (85 cases, 12.2% alc.)

Anam Cara Cellars $45 2011 Reserve Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains This reserve-style Pinot Noir from high in the Chehalem Mountains is a smoky, spicy wine with aromas of strawberry and mild oak notes. On the palate, flavors of cherry and rhubarb pie are backed with moderate tannins. This is a wine to hide in the cellar for a few years. (420 cases, 12.5% alc.)

Airfield Estates $28 2012 Pinot Noir, Yakima Valley Washington is not known for Pinot Noir, but some is planted in the relatively cooler Yakima Valley. This wine comes from estate grapes north of Prosser and reveals aromas and flavors of smoked meat, black cherry, plum and black tea. It is a pretty wine with hints of violet on the finish.

(550 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Aubichon Cellars $45 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This is a beautiful and fragrant wine from a Dundee, Ore., winery loaded with aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry and plum, all backed with oak spices, focused acidity and elegant tannins. It is drinking beautifully. (210 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Winter’s Hill Estate $44 2012 Block 9-115 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills One of the Dundee Hills’ most established growWINEPRESSN W .C O M

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ers and wineries is Winter’s Hill near the town of Dayton, Ore. This opens with complex aromas of black cherry candy, sarsaparilla and boysenberry, followed by flavors of plum, raspberry and sarsaparilla. It’s all backed with fruit-lifting acidity and mild tannins. (72 cases, 14% alc.)

Hyland Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. It offers aromas of crushed herbs, dusty minerality and strawberry-rhubarb jam, followed by flavors of blueberry, raspberry and even black currant.

This is a classic example of the McMinnville AVA. (1,000 cases, 13.3% alc.)

iOTA Cellars $38 2011 Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills Using four clones of Pinot Noir grown in the Eola-Amity Hills near Salem, Ore., this beautiful wine opens with aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberry and a pinch of succulent herbs. On the palate, it reveals bright flavors of pie cherry, rhubarb and pomegranate. Its elegant structure gives this a creamy mouth feel. (767 cases, 12.9% alc.)

Kramer Vineyards $42 2012 Heritage Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Kramer Vineyards in the northern Yamhill-Carlton AVA is one of Oregon’s oldest producers. This young wine opens with aromas of cocoa powder, black cherry and ripe raspberry. A rich entry of Chelan cherry gives way to bright flavors of raspberry, cherry and red plum with hints of black tea and gardenia. The acidity really lifts the fruit on the palate. (100 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Apolloni Vineyards $22 2012 L Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Based in the northern Willamette Valley town of Forest Grove, Ore., Apolloni has put together a lovely and complex Pinot Noir. This opens with aromas that include a sprinkling of cocoa powder, Marionberry and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it shows off flavors of ripe raspberry, cherry and a hint of cola. (364 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Adelsheim Vineyard $32 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This is one of the largest bottlings of Pinot Noir in Oregon and comes from one of the state’s most cherished producers. It is dark in color with aromas of cherry, mocha, and blueberry. On the palate, flavors of Marionberry and cherry cola are backed with bright acidity and elegant tannins.

(15,221 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard $50 2011 E’quinoxe Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Owner Tom Mortimer’s vineyard is on Parrett Mountain in the Chehalem Mountains AVA near Newberg. This provides aromas and flavors of anise, boysenberry, black cherry and pomegranate. It’s a bright, delicious wine with a nice depth of complexity and just-right structure. (210 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Stanton Vineyard $20 2011 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This small-lot, nicely priced Pinot Noir from a fairly new producer is a lovely and complex wine. It opens with aromas of violet and purple lavender, followed by flavors of pomegranate, pie cherry and plum.

Ample acidity and moderate tannins provide all the structure this wine needs. (75 cases, 12.9% alc.)

Walnut City WineWorks $30 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Together, John Davidson and John Gilpin have planted more than 1 million vines in Oregon’s Yamhill County. Davidson crafts the wines at their McMinnville winery, and this beautiful Pinot Noir opens with aromas of purple lavender, violet and strawberry. On the palate, it is bright and luscious with flavors of red cherry, red currant, red licorice and a hint of dried cranberry. It’s all backed with mild tannins and bright acidity. (840 cases, 13% alc.)

Armonéa $35 2012 Summit Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Using grapes grown high in Oregon’s Dundee Hills, this wine opens with aromas of plum, strawberry-rhubarb pie and Hostess cherry pie.

On the palate, it offers flavors of pomegranate, boysenberry and a hint of chocolate. This is showing nicely now but will continue to evolve with some time in the cellar. (59 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Hyland Estates $38 2011 Pinot Noir, McMinnville This label from French winemaker Laurent Montalieu uses grapes from highly regarded

Joleté Wines $22 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon Le Cadeau owner Tom Mortimer uses this label when he’s not using estate grapes. This is a delicious example of Pinot Noir, thanks to aromas reminiscent of a gravely country road after a summer rain shower.

Notes of black cherry, raspberry and pomegranate on the aromas and flavors help make this a luscious and approachable wine. (125 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Winter’s Hill Estate $44 2012 Block 9-114 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This is the first bottling of this wine, which uses Pinot Noir clone 114 from Block 9 in Winter’s Hill’s estate vineyard in the Dundee Hills. It opens with aromas of vanilla cream and red cherry, followed by classic bright red fruit flavors, including cranberry and Canby raspberry. It’s all backed with deliciously refreshing acidity. (97 cases, 14% alc.)

Dancin Vineyards $34 2012 Adagio Pinot Noir, Southern Oregon While the Willamette Valley in northwestern Oregon gets all the headlines, the grape-growing regions of Southern Oregon are building their reputations for many grape varieties, including Pinot Noir. This example offers aromas and flavors of dusty blueberry, raspberry and a hint of boysenberry. It’s all nicely balanced. (140 cases, 14.1% alc.)

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Armonéa $35 2010 Wine Country Farm Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Wine Country Farm is in the Dundee Hills just a few minutes from Highway 99W and is a long-established vineyard. This elegant Pinot Noir opens with aromas and flavors of black cherry, ripe raspberry, a hint of cocoa powder and a whisper of toasted oak. (75 cases, 12.5% alc.)

Girardet Wine Cellars $28 2010 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Swiss expat Philippe Girardet started this Umpqua Valley, and his son, Marc, is the longtime winemaker. This is an elegant Pinot Noir with aromas of poached cherry, raspberry tea and hints of cranberry. On the palate, this lighter-bodied wine offers flavors of black cherry, plum and even a hint of Graham cracker. (488 cases, 12.7% alc.)

Aubichon Cellars $50 2011 Armstrong Vineyard Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Ribbon Ridge is the smallest American Viticultural Area in the Pacific Northwest and is part of the same landform as the Chehalem Mountains in Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley. This succulent example provides aromas and flavors of cinnamon stick, bright cherry and cranberry, all backed with a solid tannin structure. (93 cases, 13.1% alc.)

A to Z Wineworks $19 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon What is likely to be the largest bottling of Pinot Noir in the Northwest also is a delicious wine at a great price. It opens with fruit punch aromas that lead to flavors of plum, Rainier cherry and cranberry. Its structure is acid-driven with tannins playing only a minor role. (126,619 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Dobbes Family Estate $55 2012 Patricia’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This small-lot, high-end Pinot Noir from master winemaker Joe Dobbes opens with aromas of raspberry, cherry jam and a hint of black licorice. On the palate, flavors of strawberry, dried cranberry and raspberry shine through. (427 cases, 14.2% alc.)

ArborBrook Vineyards $28 2012 Heritage Cuvée Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains ArborBrook is based in the Chehalem Mountains, an AVA in Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley.

This delicious Pinot Noir shows off aromas and flavors of plum, red cherry, white pepper and cranberry. Bright acidity and plush tannins give this beautiful length and complexity. (350 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $65 2012 Talullah’s Run Reserve Pinot Noir, McMinnville This winery in the city of McMinnville, Ore., uses grapes from the nearby McMinnville AVA. This is 30

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a classic example from that region, with aromas of minerally forest floor, mushrooms and dark cherry.

On the palate, red cherry and plum are backed by moderate tannins and bright acidity. (70 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Abiqua Wind Vineyard $25 2012 Isaac’s Reserve Pinot Noir, WIllamette Valley Due east of Salem, Ore., Abiqua Wind is near the community of Scotts Mill. This Pinot Noir reveals aromas of cocoa powder, red cherry and cranberry.

On the palate, it provides ripe, bright flavors of red-toned fruit backed with a hint of oak and mild tannins. (135 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Benton-Lane Winery $60 2012 First Class Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Benton-Lane is a highly regarded, longtime producer of Pinot Noir in the southern Willamette Valley. This is its reserve-level bottling, and it is a delight. It reveals darker tones, including black olive, ripe plum, black pepper and even roasted meats. A whiff of campfire comes through in the finish. (1,426 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $35 2012 Durant Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Seven of Hearts, based in the lovely community of Carlton, Ore., brought in grapes from the nearby Dundee Hills for this delicious Pinot Noir. It is a fascinating wine, thanks to notes of strawberryrhubarb pie, mint, a whisper of smoke and a hint of earthiness in the finish. It’s all backed with pleasing tannins. (112 cases, 13% alc.)

Firesteed Cellars $16 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon Firesteed is one of Oregon’s oldest and largest producers, and can be counted on for good quality for the value. This is a bright, easy-drinking Pinot Noir with notes of plum, Rainier cherry and even a hint of tangerine. Silky tannins give this great balance. It delivers deliciousness at a price for everyday enjoyment. (35,561 cases, 13% alc.)

D’Anu $26 2011 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Most of the time, a Dundee Hills wine means redtoned fruits, but there is the occasional exception — and this is one of them. This offers notes of blueberry, boysenberry and black currant. Despite the darker-toned flavors, this remains true to the region with an elegant mouth feel and bright, beautiful balance through the lengthy finish. (56 cases, 12.7% alc.)

Saviah Cellars $45 2011 Couse Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir, Walla Walla Valley One of the last places where you might expect Pinot Noir is the Walla Walla Valley. But a bit has been grown here for decades, and winemaker Richard Funk is crafting this from a high-elevation site in

the Blue Mountains. The result is a succulent wine with notes of mint, raspberry, watermelon and red currant. It’s a round, luscious wine with a lengthy, impressive finish. (147 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $22 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This nicely priced Pinot Noir from a McMinnville, Ore., producer shows off elegant oak spice aromas alongside notes of rhubarb-strawberry jam and a solid core of red-toned fruit. It’s all backed with bright acidity and mild tannins. (2,150 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Carlton Cellars $25 2012 Seven Devils Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This Pinot Noir is named to honor Seven Devils State Park near the coastal town of Bandon, Ore. It is a delicious wine with notes of smoked cherry, plum and raspberry tea. It’s richly structured on the palate with moderate tannins and bright acidity. (984 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Bradley Vineyards $25 2010 Pinot Noir, Oregon This bright, pretty Pinot Noir from a historic grower in Elkton, Ore., opens with aromas of raspberry, cranberry and cherry. On the palate, this emphasizes elegance and complexity over power, thanks to notes of raspberry tea and hightoned red fruit. It’s all backed with great acidity and mild tannins. (170 cases 14.2% alc.)

Cottonwood Winery of Oregon $29 2011 Winter’s Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This winery near Salem, Ore., used grapes from the Dundee Hills near the town of Dayton to craft this pretty and complex wine. It reveals aromas and flavors of alfalfa, raspberry, cranberry and even a hint of lime zest. It’s a juicy wine with a touch of lightly roasted coffee in the finish. (50 cases, 12.6% alc.)

ArborBrook Vineyards $65 2012 Vintner’s Select Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Of the six AVAs that make up the northern Willamette Valley, the Chehalem Mountains is farthest north, taking over a ridge near the city of Newberg. This classic example offers aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry and cranberry. The flavors are rich and pretty, and the modest tannins provide a delicious finish. (125 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Winter’s Hill Estate $44 2012 Block 4 Pinot Noir , Dundee Hills This single-block Pinot Noir from estate grapes near Dayton, Ore., offers classic Dundee Hills aromas and flavors of strawberry, raspberry, red plum and Bing cherry. A hint of mild oak and a touch of French vanilla add complexity to this delicious red. (95 cases, 14% alc.)

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Coeur de Terre Vineyard $65 2012 Abby’s Block Reserve Pinot Noir, McMinnville The McMinnville AVA is the least-understood growing region in Oregon because it doesn’t encompass the city of McMinnville. Rather, it is a hill not far from town and a fascinating place to grow wine grapes. This is a great example, as it offers aromas and flavors of dark, somewhat brooding fruit, including dark cherry, cocoa powder, black currant and ripe plum. (70 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $35 2012 Armstrong Vineyard Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge The tiny Ribbon Ridge AVA is part of the same landform as the Chehalem Mountains and is becoming popular for growing Pinot Noir on the high end of quality. This is a thoughtful example with aromas and flavors of dusty minerality, Rainier cherry, red licorice and a hint of cranberry.

Bright acidity brings it all together. (147 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard $80 2011 Cote Est Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Here’s a high-end Pinot Noir from a Dundee winery with estate vines in the Chehalem Mountains. It opens with aromas of moist earth and chocolate-covered cherries. On the palate, it’s dense yet refined, with notes of Marionberry and dried black cherry. (70 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Kramer Vineyards $24 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Second-generation winemaker Kim Kramer uses grapes from her family’s estate vineyard in northern Yamhill County near the town of Gaston, Ore. This is a pretty wine with bright aromas and flavors of pomegranate, red currant and raspberry tea. A hint of oak spice and bright acidity add complexity through the elegant finish. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Hip Chicks Do Wine $24 2011 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This urban winery in Portland leaves all the pretension at the door while crafting delicious and affordable wines. This is a lighter style of Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of cherry, rhubarb and raspberry. It’s an elegant wine that is a pleasant sipper. (195 cases, 13% alc.)

Wine by Joe $19 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon Winemaker Joe Dobbes puts this affordable and delicious Pinot Noir under screwcap. It’s a fun and widely distributed wine with aromas and flavors of dried plum, red currant, boysenberry and ripe cherry. Moderate tannins give it solid structure.

(16,200 cases, 13% alc.)

Left Coast Cellars $35 2012 Latitude 45 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This winery not far from Salem, Ore., has a 12WINEPRESSN W .C O M

acre vineyard that is bisected by the 45th parallel and is planted to Pinot Noir clones 114, 115 and 667. The result is a delicious and complex red with aromas of mocha, exotic spices, black raspberry and black cherry. On the palate, flavors of red plum and cherry are backed by moderate tannins and terrific acidity. (370 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $35 2012 Lia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Winemaker/owner Byron Dooley crafts his wines for Seven of Hearts in Carlton, Ore., and went to the nearby Chehalem Mountains for these grapes. It’s a pretty wine with aromas and flavors of dusty cranberry, red cherry and red currant, all backed with elegant tannins and ample acidity. (126 cases, 13.1% alc.)

J. Scott Cellars $26 2012 Grace Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Grace Hill Vineyard is in the southern Willamette Valley, not far from the college town of Eugene, Ore. This is a lovely example of Pinot Noir from there, showing off aromas and flavors of purple fruit, moist earth and a hint of oak spice. It’s all backed by moderate tannins and plenty of acidity.

(250 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Luminous Hills $35 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Luminous Hills is a label for Seven of Hearts Winery in Carlton, Ore, that uses grapes from the Luminous Hills estate vineyard in the highly regarded Yamhill-Carlton AVA. This offers aromas and flavors of Rainier cherry, cranberry, a hint of espresso and plum, all backed by bright acidity.

(427 cases, 13% alc.)

Recommended Apolloni Vineyards $30 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This yummy Pinot Noir offers aromas and flavors of dusty minerality, along with notes of black cherry, plum, pomegranate and even a hint of lime zest. (552 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $16 2011 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley This young wine from Idaho’s Snake River Valley is incredibly delicate, opening with aromas of cherry blossom tea, red currant and chokecherry, followed by flavors of red red cherry and elegant tannins. (1,100 cases, 12.6% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery $32 2010 Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan This somewhat rare Washington wine shows off aromas and flavors of black licorice, milk chocolate, rose petal, cranberry and pomegranate. Firm tannins give his great structure. (498 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Hyland Estates $60 2012 Coury Pinot Noir, McMinnville Charles Coury, one of Oregon’s wine pioneers,

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brought plant material from Burgundy, one of which became known as the Coury clone. That is what goes into this wine, which offers rich aromas and flavors of leather, minerally earth, ripe strawberry and a hint of toast. (250 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Pete’s Mountain Winery $36 2012 Haley’s Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This delicious and complex Pinot Noir opens with aromas of Graham cracker, crushed herbs and cranberry, followed by flavors of pomegranate and boysenberry. (410 cases, 14% alc.)

Silvan Ridge Winery $22 2011 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This Pinot Noir is from one of Oregon’s oldest producers. It shows off aroma and flavors of red plum, red currant, cherry and vanilla notes. It’s all backed with a rich mouth feel. (1,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $65 2012 Sarah Jane’s Block Reserve Pinot Noir, McMinnville Here’s a classic example of Pinot Noir from the McMinnville AVA, thanks to notes of boysenberry, anise, blueberry, earthiness and moderate tannins. It is a delicious and concentrated red wine. (85 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Pino t no ir by the numbers

Here are some interesting statistics about this Pinot Noir judging: e Number of wines: 125 e Percentage of “Outstanding” wines: 8.9 e Percentage of “Excellent” wines: 47.2 e Percentage of “Recommended” wines: 36.8 e Average bottle price: $38 e Average alcohol: 13.4% e Total cases represented: 273,347 e AVAs represented: 19 e Wines by AVA: Willamette Valley (43), Dundee Hills (14), Oregon (13), Yamhill-Carlton (11), Chehalem Mountains (10), McMinnville (9), Wahluke Slope (4), Lake Chelan (3), Ribbon Ridge (3), Snake River Valley (3), Southern Oregon (3), Umpqua Valley (2), Elkton Oregon (1), Eola-Amity Hills (1), Rattlesnake Hills (1), Walla Walla Valley (1), Washington (1), Yakima Valley (1), Yamhill

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Winter’s Hill Estate $44 2012 Block 10 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This block-designated wine from estate grapes offers aromas and flavors of bright, lively red fruit, including cranberry, raspberry and Rainier cherry.

Beautiful acidity and mild tannins provide all the needed structure. (72 cases, 14% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard $50 2011 Diversité Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This elegant Pinot Noir shows off aromas and flavors of red currant, Rainier cherry, cranberry and other high-toned red fruit. A slight bit of oak adds complexity and depth. (230 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Gypsy Dancer Estates $42 2012 Legacy Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Gypsy Dancer is a brand started by Gary Andrus, who launched such famous brands as Archery Summit in the Dundee Hills and Pine Ridge in Napa Valley. After Andrus died, his wife, Christine kept the winery going with the help of fellow winemakers. This wine, which offers classic aromas of red cherry, raspberry and moist earthiness, pays tribute to his legacy. (144 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $36 2012 The Héritage Reserve Estate Pinot Noir, McMinnville Here is an elegant and approachable Pinot Noir that is likely to only gain complexity and depth with some time in the cellar. Right now, it is highlighted by aromas and flavors of black cherry, pomegranate, cranberry and a hint of oak. (475 cases, 14.5% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $55 2011 Estate BlackJack Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Aromas of roasted coffee, clove and Marionberry give way to flavors of cherry pie and freshly baked bread to produce a wine that is as approachable as it is delicious. (220 cases, 13% alc.)

Chateau Lorane $40 2012 Van Vactor Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This producer in the southern Willamette Valley has crafted a delicious red with aromas and flavors of blackberry, cherry jam and hints of pomegranate. It’s all well balanced with moderate tannins.

(50 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Agate Ridge Vineyard $26 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Southern Oregon While Pinot Noir is king in the Willamette Valley, it plays a smaller role in Southern Oregon.

However, this is an example of a delicious Pinot from a Southern Oregon producer, with aromas of strawberry, black cherry and cocoa powder, all backed with bold acidity and mild tannins. (200 cases, 15.5% alc.)

Ghost Hill Cellars $55 2011 Prospector’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Yamhill-Carlton in Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley tends to produce dark, brooding and complex Pinot Noirs. Here’s a prime example that reveals aromas of violet and lavender followed by flavors of fresh strawberry and huckleberry. (120 cases, 13.5% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $35 2011 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This delicious Pinot Noir opens with a dusting of cocoa powder and flavors of cherry, cranberry and raspberry. Its deliciously refreshing acidity brings everything together. (225 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $20 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Byron Dooley’s main bottling of provides aromas and flavors of ripe strawberry, black cherry and dusty blueberry. This is backed with light, airy tannins and fruit-lifting acidity. (756 cases, 13.6% alc.)

ArborBrook Vineyards $50 2012 Coury Clone Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill County Using grapes from the McMinnville AVA, this wine is what we would term as “Burgundian,” thanks to aromas and flavors of new leather, minerally earth, ripe raspberry and bright cherry. (200 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Rainstorm $17 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon Rainstorm is a label for Washington-based Pacific Rim Winemakers. This is a bright, delicious and affordable Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of cherry, rosemary, red licorice and raspberry tea.

(6,300 cases, 13% alc.)

Elk Cove Vineyards $60 2012 La Bohème Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Using estate grapes from a high-elevation vineyard, winemaker Adam Campbell has crafted a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of red plum, cherry and even a hint of boysenberry. (794 cases, 14%% alc.)

Kramer Vineyards $40 2011 Heritage Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton This gorgeous and exotic Pinot Noir offers notes of Rainier cherry, cranberry and herbal tea. On the finish, a whisper of ginger leads to a long finish, thanks to bright acidity, mild tannins and sweet spices. (100 cases, 13% alc.)

Benton-Lane Winery $29 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This delicious Pinot Noir from the southern Willamette Valley provides aromas and flavors of moist earth, red cherry, dried cranberry and maple syrup. It is all backed by bright, food-friendly acidity. (13,700 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Hyland Estates $60 2011 Coury Pinot Noir, McMinnville This delicious example from the McMinnville AVA offers smooth, plush flavors of ripe strawberry, raspberry, violets and cherry. Elegant tannins lead to a delicious finish. (250 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Sweet Cheeks Winery $25 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This is a bright, pretty and complex Pinot Noir that opens with aromas of black raspberry and dark cherry, followed by flavors of Bing cherry and even purple plum notes. (1,295 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $16 2012 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Here’s a young, fresh and approachable wine from the Gem State with aromas and flavors of ripe raspberry, Rainier cherry and sweet herbal notes, all backed by elegant acidity. (300 cases, 12.6% alc.)

Montinore Estate $35 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This longtime producer in the northern Willamette Valley has crafted a Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of violet, Rainier cherry and plum, all backed with moderate tannins and ample acidity.

(2,000 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Lumos Wine Co. $25 2011 Five Blocks Pinot Noir, Oregon This brooding and complex Pinot Noir from winemaker Dai Crisp offers aromas and flavors of dried herbs, cranberry, blueberry and even Saskatoon berry. It is beautifully balanced throughout the lengthy finish. (855 cases, 12.5% alc.)

Gresser Vineyard $28 2012 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Bright red fruit highlights this delicious and approachable Pinot Noir. Notes of dried strawberry, cherry, rhubarb and even blueberry provide beautiful flavor, backed up by nice acidity and mild tannins. (300 cases, 13% alc.)

Aubichon Cellars $55 2012 Armstrong Vineyard Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Ribbon Ridge, the Northwest’s smallest AVA, produces Pinot Noir of elegance and power. This is a prime example, with notes of ripe plum, blackberry and buttered toast. (135 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Dancin Vineyards $34 2012 Elevé Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Southern Oregon Beautiful aromas of cocoa powder, cola and Rainier cherry are followed by strawberry fruit leather and cranberry. It’s all backed by luscious acidity and mild tannins. (98 cases, 13.4% alc.)

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Aubichon Cellars $35 2011 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Aromas of vanilla, black cherry and spice give way to flavors of red plum, blueberry and cranberry in this bright, approachable and elegant wine. (338 cases, 12.8% alc.)

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Armonéa $35 2012 Wine Country Farm Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Here is a rich, ripe and approachable Pinot Noir using grapes from high in Oregon’s Dundee Hills.

It reveals aromas and flavors of black cherry, ripe raspberry and hints of dark chocolate. (56 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Carlton Cellars $45 2011 Roads End Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton This complex Pinot Noir offers aromas of dusty minerality, crushed leaf, dried cherry and black currant on the lengthy finish. (288 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Luminous Hills $42 2012 Lux Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton This young and exuberant Pinot Noir is loaded with aromas and flavors of Rainier cherry, nutmeg, boysenberry and a hint of lime juice on the bright finish. (147 cases, 13.1% alc.)

ArborBrook Vineyards $50 2012 Estate 777 Block Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Relying on clone 777, this delicious Pinot Noir opens with aromas of violet, raspberry and Rainier cherry, followed by flavors of black raspberry, plum and pomegranate. It’s all backed by moderate tannin. (425 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Stina’s Cellars $25 2010 Pinot Noir, Washington This rare Washington Pinot Noir offers aromas and flavors of pie cherry, pomegranate and a hint of nuttiness, all backed by moderate tannins and good acidity. (25 cases, 12% alc.)

Ginkgo Forest Winery $20 2010 Pinot Noir, Wahluke Slope One doesn’t think of the arid Wahluke Slope as Pinot Noir country, but this floral and brightly structured wine might change your mind. Aromas and flavors of boysenberry, black cherry and strawberry highlight this wine. (139 cases, 13.5% alc.)

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Montinore Estate $20 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Aromas of ripe raspberry and mild oak lead to rich flavors of red cherry, strawberry and even a hint of pomegranate. It’s all backed by moderate tannins and good acidity. (10,645 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Palouse Winery $23 2012 Portteus Vineyard Sideways Pinot Noir, Rattlesnake Hills Using grapes from a longtime Yakima Valley vineyard, this Washington Pinot Noir opens with aromas of poached plum and black cherry, followed by flavors of pomegranate and pie cherry.

(36 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Firesteed Cellars $30 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This complex Pinot Noir opens with aromas of a dusty country road, raspberry and lime zest, followed by bright and luscious flavors of pomegranate and raspberry. (2,545 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Ghost Hill Cellars $42 2011 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton This spicy and complex Pinot Noir exudes aromas and flavors of moist earth, black cherry and a whisper of smokiness. It’s all backed by mild tannins and bright acidity. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)

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Winter’s Hill Vineyard $34 2011 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The first whiff of this yummy Pinot Noir reminds us of walking through a dusty orchard in early autumn. On the palate, this reveals rich flavors of cherry and plum, all backed by firm, balanced tannins. (250 cases, 13% alc.)

Dancin Vineyards $34 2011 Pas de Trois Pinot Noir, Oregon Aromas of Timothy hay and red currant lead to flavors of watermelon and raspberry. Mild tannins and bright acidity lift the delicious fruit through a memorable finish. (151 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Chelan Estate $25 2008 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan This older offering from one of Washington’s newest growing areas shows elegance on the aromas and palate, with notes of dusty cherry, lime zest and raspberry. (583 cases, 13.7% alc.) e

Andy Perdue is a wine journalist, author and judge. Learn more about wine at www. greatnorthwestwine.com.

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $65 2012 Renelle’s Block Reserve Estate Pinot Noir, McMinnville Aromas of black cherry, oak spice and raspberry tea give way to flavors of pomegranate, red plum and a hint of walnut. Moderate tannins provide ample structure for a lengthy finish. (80 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Duck Pond Cellars $24 2012 Conservation Cuvee Lot #1 Pinot Noir, Oregon Using grapes from up and down western Oregon, this wine shows off aromas and flavors of boysenberry, ripe strawberry, jasmine and red licorice.

Mouth-filling fruitiness is backed by luscious acidity. (224 cases, 13.5% alc.)

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FEATURE

whatcom trail

Northwest Washington Wine and Spirits Trail

By Dan Radil Contributor

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ike many areas in Western Washington, Whatcom County has seen a steady increase in the number of wineries. This far north region of the Puget Sound Appellation is now home to 10 wineries, and along with two distilleries, they’ve collaborated to form the Whatcom Winery and Distillery Association.

Association wineries stretch from Bellingham north to the Canadian border and from Lummi Island east along the Mount Baker Highway. A visit to the area offers wine enthusiasts the unique opportunity to take in the spectacular natural beauty of Western Washington while sampling premium wines along the way.f

Tracy DeGraff of GLM Wine Company 36

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Aware of the advantages of working together, Tracey DeGraff of Blaine’s GLM Wine Company notes, “We’ve recognized that we’re stronger in a group than we are individually. Our resources are pooled for advertising and marketing, especially for special events such as Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, and October Harvest and Crush.”

DeGraff ’s husband, Tom Davis, who’s Vice President of the Association, has designed a brochure titled, “The Whatcom Wine & Spirits Trail,” which is available at all member wineries and distilleries. The brochure serves as a handy reference guide with tasting room hours, an area map, and driving directions.

The brochure also includes a wine and spirits passport. Visitors who collect passport stamps from eight of the 12 members earn a generous 20% discount on any purchase.

GREATER BELLINGHAM Dynasty Cellars is a great place to begin your Whatcom County wine tasting adventure. Peter and Olga Osvaldik and their family are always gracious hosts while serving wines that are hugely popular with local wineophiles.

Although they currently offer Riesling and Rosé, red wines have always been Dynasty’s forte, and these big, full-bodied wines have been sourced almost exclusively from Les Collines and Pepper Bridge Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley.

Originating in Prosser, Masquerade Wine Company moved to Bellingham in 2007 and became the city’s first urban winery. The

Bottles of sparkling wine on riddling racks at Masquerade Wine Company WINEPRESSNW.COM

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husband-and-wife team of Bill and Jennifer Kimmerly produce a number of wines using Columbia Valley, Red Mountain and Willamette Valley grapes.

Masquerade’s signature wine is the Effervescing Elephant, a sparkling blend of three classic Champagne region grapes: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay.

Tucked away in a quiet, wooded area near Lake Whatcom and just minutes from Bellingham is Inyo Vineyard & Winery. In addition to the current releases of Riesling, Syrah and three red wine blends, Owner/ Winemaker Charles Terranova also offers a white wine blend that combines Madeleine Angevine and Siegerrebe grapes harvested from the winery’s small estate vineyard.

Bellingham’s newest winery, Coach House Cellars, features the talents of Paxton Rembert and Scott Whitman. The duo has graduated from making wines in Rembert’s garage to bona fide, and recognized, boutique winery operators.

Their Yakima and Columbia Valleysourced wines have included Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, and a highly touted Cabernet Sauvignon.

JUST OFF THE MOUNT BAKER HIGHWAY Owner Randy Finley supplies over 30 years of experience in the wine industry at Mount Baker Vineyards. Whatcom County’s largest winery is located about 10 miles northeast of Bellingham near the town of Deming. It was originally established in 1982, making it one of the state’s oldest.

Mount Baker Vineyards produces a wide array of varietals and also features bottlings from its own vineyards located just steps from the tasting room. Estate varietals include cool-weather grapes such as Pinot Noir, Muller Thurgau, Siegerrebe, Chasselas, and Madeline Angevine.

At Vartanyan Estate Winery, Siberia native Margarita Vartanyan continues a family tradition of winemaking experience as owner and operator.

Although Vartanyan does a nice job with varietals such Chardonnay, Merlot, and Malbec, her standout wine is the Trilogia.

This combination of Cabernet Franc, Syrah WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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Alex Frescobaldi-Grimaldi pours wines at Masquerade Wine Company

and Merlot is aged in Russian, French and American oak barrels and is perfect for longterm cellaring.

Samson Estates Winery is a must-stop destination for those who enjoy fruit-based wines. Winemaker Rob Dhaliwal crafts a number of vibrant, fragrant wines using raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and black currants in both artisan fruit and fortified dessert styles.

If fruit wines aren’t your preference, Samson also offers traditional grape varietals including Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah.

BLAINE Just a stone’s throw from the Canadian Border is GLM Wine Company. The cozy, pristine garagistes-style production and tasting room includes wines made from Yakima Valley and Umpqua Valley grapes.

Winemaker Tom Davis specializes in innovative, forward-thinking, “outside-thebox” wines including a Marsanne enrobed with Cabernet Sauvignon; and his La Robe Chardonnay, which combines the juice of the Chardonnay grapes with the skins of previously pressed Gamay Noir, resulting in a wine with all the color and tannins of a red.

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Immensely popular with the locals is Dakota Creek Winery, which is owned and operated by yet another husband-and-wife team, Ken and Jill Peck.

Dakota Creek’s wine list is as varied as its fan base, and the Pecks do an excellent

job of making sure their guests leave happy.

Current releases include Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Malbec, and two signature red wine blends, the Firefighter Red and Jill’s Blend.

LUMMI ISLAND Winemaker Larry Smith invites you to visit Legoe Bay Winery, located on the west shore of scenic Lummi Island.

Accessing the island is just a short, 10-minute ferry ride across Hale Passage near Bellingham Bay. Take a side trip to nearby Artisan Wine Gallery, visit Legoe Bay Winery, and then enjoy lunch or dinner at the Beach Store Café for a stellar Whatcom County day trip.

For additional information and links to all Whatcom Winery Association wineries as well as its two distilleries – Bellewood Distilling and Mount Baker Distillery – go to whatcomwineries.com.

Winery Information Coach House Cellars (360) 389-0884 coachhousecellars.com Dakota Creek Winery (360) 820-4752 dakotacreekwinery.com Dynasty Cellars (360) 758-2958 or (360) 758-7919 dynastycellarswine.com GLM Wine Company (360) 332-2097 or (778) 881-6718 glmwine.com Inyo Vineyard & Winery (360) 647-0441 inyowine.com Legoe Bay Winery (360) 758-9992 or (425) 985-2710 legoebaywinery.com Masquerade Wine Company (360) 220-7072 or (509) 416-6277 masqueradewines.com Mount Baker Vineyards (360) 592-2300 mountbakervineyards.com Samson Estates Winery (360) 966-7787 samsonestates.com Vartanyan Estate Winery (360) 756-6770 or (360) 961-9484 vewinery.com

Distillery Information Bellewood Distilling (360) 318-7720 bellewoodfarms.com

Ken Peck serves visitors from out-of-town on the patio at Dakota Creek Winery 38

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Mount Baker Distillery (360) 734-3301 mountbakerdistillery.com

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Now’s your chance to own the winery of your dreams

Joe Collins W R INDERMERE

509-682-5100 EAL ESTATE/LAKE CHELAN WWW.LAKECHELANFORSALE.COM

750 Kinsey Rd, Manson 98831 - Lake Chelan

$3,200,000

Estate Winery & Vineyard overlooking Lake Chelan & Roses Lake. This turnkey operation consists of massive log home, tasting room, cold room (2,400 btl rack), production facility, 6 stall horse stable, paddock, 20 acres irrigated pasture & 14 acres vineyard (7 wine varietals). Also included is a wedding/event business. The log home has 4 bedrooms (2 bridal suites) 6 baths, game room, 6 person spa, massive stone fireplace, view decks. Winery including 2 bars, POS system, 4 refrigerators, outdoor seating/trellis.

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FEATURE

a taste of eugene

A Taste of Eugene

BY JADE HELM

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oute 5 NW Wine Bar in Eugene, Oregon offers guests a tasting tour through the wines of the Pacific Northwest.

“Sometimes people don’t know where they want to visit in wine country,” explains Kirsten Hansen, Wine Director. “At Route 5 they can taste wine from different AVAs.” (American Viticultural Areas).

Hansen and Route 5’s talented, knowledgeable staff create fun and educational experiences for guests. In addition to the bottle shop selection, a rotation of about 20 Northwest wines (mostly Oregon and Washington) are available by the splash, glass, or flask. Visitors can customize flights.

For instance one might compare Pinot noir from McMinnville, Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and the Willamette Valley. Hansen then takes personal preferences, puts together tour suggestions, and sends guests off with a picnic. The menu at Route 5, a selection of meats, cheeses, salads and sandwiches, is

also sourced from the Pacific Northwest with vendors like Rogue Creamery and Olympic Provisions on the menu.

Hansen reflects on what else makes Route 5 special: “We feature small producers and newcomers. Some bottles are usually only available at the winery and we don’t just carry current releases.” Indeed there is a 1985 Pinot noir in the section devoted to vintage wines from Eyrie Vineyards. Monthly educational dinners and pairings offer a fun way to learn more about enjoying Northwest wines.

The most recent special pairing dinner series celebrated the “pioneers” of Oregon’s wine industry. These dinners explored the state’s unique heritage with icons like Dick Erath and David Adelsheim. The next series, “Hometown Heroes” beginning in September, will feature Eugene winemakers. The dinners at Route 5 are great opportunities to learn about wines from the winemakers themselves in a relaxed, unhurried format.

Route 5 is part of the Fifth Street Public Market. The market is a collection of locally owned shops and restaurants. One shopkeeper calls the market “the jewel of The Inn at the 5th downtown in Eugene

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downtown Eugene.” Several restaurants offer something for every taste and budget, from french fries to foie gras. In the central courtyard the sun shines down on the fountain, walls are painted with murals, the piano and retro phone booth somehow don’t seem out of place. Outdoor dining tables are found on each level. Families and couples of all ages sip coffee or eat ice cream among planters brimming with colorful blooms. Jazz subtly plays in the background. The European theme successfully transports visitors.

The Inn at the 5th, a AAA Four Diamond Award-Winning hotel, provides convenient lodging in the Public Market. One could easily spend a girls’ getaway or romantic weekend. The Inn’s complimentary shuttle service in a Mercedes Benz or Sprinter shuttle travels a four mile radius. Reserve ahead, and this can be easy transportation to nearby urban wineries: Capitello Wines, the Oregon Wine L.A.B, Territorial Vineyards and Eugene Wine Cellars.

For a day of wine tasting at any of the 17 regional wineries, there are several local shuttle service companies for hire.

Before striking out for nearby wine country, consider a stop at Marché Provisions. Just as Route 5 highlights the Northwest, Marché Provisions brings the best of Western Europe and the Mediterranean. Hansen’s hand, directing the wine program here, is evident.

Browsing is easy.

The French wine section is divided into Bordeaux, Champagne, Rhone etc. The same is true for other major wine producing countries such as Spain and Italy. European oils, vinegars, and tapenades can be found.

Breads, pastry, ice cream, salads, sandwiches, and wood fired pizza are made on site.

Hansen leads casual monthly wine classes at Marché Provisions featuring pairings with “snacks.” The next series, beginning in September 2014, showcases varietals across regions. Participants will, for instance, taste and compare Cabernet Sauvignon from several regions around the globe. There are also complimentary wine tastings at Marché Provisions each Saturday.

The Marché restaurant, across from WINEPRESSNW.COM

“Sometimes people don’t know where they want to visit in wine country, at Route 5 they can taste wine from different AVAs.” Route 5 is a blend of France and the Pacific Northwest. Dining space is divided between the casual Le Bar and the white table cloth experience of Marché. The restaurant, founded by James Beard Award nominee Stephanie Pearl Kimmel, showcases Northwest ingredients using French cooking traditions. Creative Director Jessica Blaine explains the Marché philosophy, “Celebrating the season with great food from local farmers is a wonderful way to experience life on the plate.” Executive Chef Karl Zenk oversees the menus at Marché and Le Bar, Marché Provisions, and Route 5 with consistent quality and dedication to sustainable, artisanal producers. “We get a lot of our ingredients from the local farmer’s market,” says Zenk listing farmers by their first names.

Of course, some of their ingredients aren’t farmed, but foraged. Have no fear, their foragers are licensed.

Monthly dinners are held at Marché to highlight seasonal food and wine pairings of classic French regions. These dinners include education about regional flavors and history.

Sommelier Phillip Patti visits each table describing the wine pairings. Upcoming topics include Bordeaux, Alsace, Beaujolais, and Champagne. The regular wine list at Marché is also divided by grape or style with French and Pacific Northwest options. This makes comparisons like Chardonnay from Burgundy and Willamette Valley easy to navigate.

Locally owned retail stores offer a break from food and wine. Everything from home decor, jewelry, clothing boutiques and toys can be found in the Public Market. It may not work off any wine and cheese calories but a “Blissful Package” at Gervais Salon and Day Spa sounds like a nice vacation addition. Near the Public Market are pubs, more WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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FEATURE

a taste of eugene

restaurant choices, and the Oregon Gallery featuring Northwest photography and crafts.

For weekend evening entertainment, Eugene’s wineries offer many opportunities for toe tapping and wine tasting. Fritter away a Friday evening among the vines with live music at Sweet Cheeks Winery’s Twilight Tastings or Domaine Meriwether’s Sparkling Nights. Many urban wineries, such as Oregon Wine L.A.B., Capitello Wines, and Territorial Vineyards, have live music on Fridays and are a short distance from the Public Market.

Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays June through October 11, guests gather on the patio between Route 5 and Inn at the 5th for live music. Chef Zenk fires up the grill, offering a special menu, cooked to order.

Whether Eugene is a travel destination or a stop enroute, there are ample opportunities for a taste of the Northwest. For more information on upcoming events visit southernwillamettewineries.com. For information on wine classes and dinners visit route5wine.com, marcherestaurant.com, and marcheprovisions.com.

JADE HELM is the primary author of Tasting Pour, a wine blog. Based

in Oregon she is a Diplomate of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust of London and a Certified Specialist of Wine, Society of Wine Educators.

Visit tastingpour.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

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wine country: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

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Product Review: Savino decanter

By Andy Perdue Special to Wine Press Northwest

P

erhaps this is not an issue for you, but it is for most: How do you safely and efficiently keep a half-consumed bottle of wine in good shape for a few days?

I can’t prove this scientifically, but I believe more methods and gadgets are dedicated to storing partially consumed bottles of wine than for any other wine-related function.

There are vacuum pumps (they’re terrible) and cans of inert gas (they’re great) to get wine-killing oxygen away from the wine.

A new gadget called the Coravin allows you to pull wine out of a bottle without removing the cork. It’s all the rage with wine collectors, restaurateurs and wineries. It’s also $300.

Some wine lovers keep around empty half-bottles so they can pour what’s left of a regular bottle to keep out the oxygen.

Some go so far as to drop marbles into the half-full wine bottle until the bottle is full again (I tried this exactly once).

Even if you just shove the cork back into that bottle of red and leave it on your counter, it probably will be just fine for two or three days — and in many cases with young wines, it will taste a little better before it starts going bad.

Several years ago, Wine Press Northwest tested many of these methods (except for the Coravin, which didn’t exist) over the course of several weeks. The inert gas worked the best, as I recall.

All of this is a lot to think through just to preserve four glasses of wine that you didn’t happen to consume during the course of dinner last night.

Might I suggest Savino to solve nearly every issue with preserving wine properly.

Savino is a decanter with a float that sits atop the wine to keep oxygen away. It’s as clever as it is elegant. Here’s how it works: • Fill the Savino decanter with your wine.

It will hold a full 750ml bottle.

• Slide in the float. It will sit atop the wine regardless of how much is left.

• Put on the lid.

• Leave it on your counter if you’re drinking red or in the fridge if you’re drinking white. It should taste just as good in a week as it does when you open the bottle.

The elegance comes when you go to pour yourself a glass. The float tilts with the wine, so it pours easily into your glass. It is really slick.

The Savino retails for $60, and a plastic version sells for $30. It’s well worth picking up one or two or adding it to your Christmas wish list.

Note: This doesn’t work with sparkling wine.

Andy Perdue is editor & publisher of Great Northwest Wine and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

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INDULGE

STAY

SHOP

DINE

PLAY

Visit us at www.historickennewick.org WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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No r t hw e st Wine Events September 18-21 Feast, Portland. Bon Appétit magazine’s third annual celebration of Oregon food includes more than 30 Northwest wineries and benefits hunger prevention. Go to feastportland.com.

27-28 Chehalis Valley Wine Tour, Centralia, Wash.

Sixth annual tour spotlights six wineries. Call 360-623-1106 or go to chehalisvalleywinetour.com.

28 Idaho Wine Run, Caldwell. This annual event spans from a full marathon to a kids fun run with 15 Snake River Valley wineries pouring alongside live music after the race. Go to idahowinerun.net.

October 4 North Willamette Harvest Trail and Grand Tasting, Ore. Tour 20 wineries during the day, which is capped by an afternoon tasting representing all the wineries 4-5, 11-12 Lake Chelan Crush, Chelan, Wash. Experience two weekends of harvest in one of the state’s youngest appellations. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

11 Le Vin A Son Apogee, Bellevue, Wash. Stacy Lill, founder of O Wines, chairs this Northwest wine benefit for Bellevue Life Spring. Go to bellevuelifespring.org.

11 A Toast of Life, Seattle. The sixth annual Seattle Hope Gala at Fremont Studios features nearly 20 Washington wineries in support of the American Cancer Society. Go to gala. acsevents.org.

11-12 Catch the Crush, Yakima, Prosser, Tri-Cities.

Harvest celebrations span Yakima, Zillah, Prosser and the TriCities. Call 866-360-6611 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

11-12 Uncork the Cure on Red Mountain, Benton City, Wash. Red Mountain wineries pour to benefit Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. Go to cff.org/Chapters/washington/ 25 Wish Ball, Portland. Portland Art Museum assists MakeA-Wish Foundation Oregon and Clark County. Call 503-2922280 or go to oregon.wish.org.

November 6 Sippin’ in the City, Boise. Gem State wineries meet for the fourth annual food-and-wine festival at Linen Building. Go to sippininthecity.com

14-15 ¡Salud! Dundee and Portland. The 23rd annual Pinot Noir auction benefits Oregon’s vineyard workers and their families. Call 503-681-1850 or go to saludauction.org.

14-15 Taste of Tulalip, Tulalip, Wash. More than 60 Washington wineries pour at this sixth annual celebration at Tulalip Resort Casino. Go to tasteoftulalip.com.

15 Mount Rainier Wine Festival, Ashford, Wash. Mount Rainier Lions Clubs stage this fifth annual gathering of small wineries from 2-8 p.m. Go to road-to-paradise.com.

15 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Kennewick, Wash. The 36th annual tasting returns to the Three Rivers Convention Center.

Go to tricitieswinesociety.com.

15 Northwest Wine & Food Festival, Portland. This ninth annual event returns to the Doubletree Lloyd Center. Go to nwwinefestival.com.

21-23 Holiday Wine Festival, Spokane. The 29th annual weekend of wine, art and food staged the weekend before Thanksgiving. Go to spokanewineries.net.

22 Skagit Wine & Beer Festival, Mount Vernon, Wash.

Skagit County wineries will be featured at the Best Western CottonTree Inn. Go to mountvernonchamber.com.

28-29 Thanksgiving in Wine Country, Yakima Valley, Wash. Tour Washington’s oldest wine region. Visit wineyakimavalley.org.

28-30 Wine Country Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley, Ore. More than 150 wineries of the Willamette Valley celebrate the holidays. Go to willamettewines.com.

28-30 Lake Chelan Fall Barrel Tasting, Chelan, Wash.

Get a peek at future releases from the state’s 11th American Viticultural Area. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

December 5-7 St. Nick’s Winter Weekend, Woodinville, Wash.

More than 40 wineries open their doors for this annual threeday celebration. Go to woodinvillewinecountry.com 5-7 Holiday Barrel Tasting, Walla Walla, Wash. Enjoy a weekend visiting the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley. Go to wallawallawine.com or call 509-526-3117.

7-9 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. The Walla Walla Valley comes alive with new releases, winemaker dinners, live music and art festivals. Go to wallawallawine.com.

8-9 Harvest Winery Tour & Scarecrow Contest, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The Olympic Peninsula Wineries’ annual fall wine-touring event. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

14 Epicurean Delight, Spokane.

This 33rd annual gala benefits the Inland Northwest Blood Center. Call 509-2324567 or go to bloodcenterfoundation.com.

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Winemaker Dana Roberts (left) and his mother, co-owner and manager Kim Roberts.

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MATCH MAKERS

Westport Winery destination and port of call for award-winning wines Story by Eric Degerman // Photos by Charity Burggraaf

Kim Roberts is one of those driven, confident — perhaps crazed — types who says, “I can do this.”

A

BERDEEN, Wash. — Kim Roberts is one of those driven, confident — perhaps crazed — types who says, “I can do this.”

A visit to Westport Winery is proof she and her family do this and this and that.

Judging from the medals earned by their 6,000 cases of wine, and the sales and support for their solar-powered lighthousethemed restaurant, they are doing it all rather well.

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And the Grays Harbor community didn’t just welcome them, they’ve embraced them.

“Our thought was for it to be just the four of us in this, and it would be a great opportunity for us to teach our kids the love of the land, the love of community and the love of enterprise,” Kim said. “Much to our surprise, we immediately needed to start hiring employees.”

Officially, the name of their business is Westport Winery & Vineyards By-the-Sea,

but the subtitle reads Farm to Fork Restaurant & Bakery, Gifts - Produce - Nursery Sculptures - Golf - Dog Park - Cider - Tour.

“We don’t leave the property much,” she said with a smile. “We want to be here for the people who come to meet us.”

Their son, Dana, makes the wine. Their daughter, Carrie, serves as general manager and now cider maker. Blain, the patriarch, keeps everything together while Kim develops the next phase of their business as she digs her hands into the gardens and nursery.

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Westport Winery $25 2013 Fleur de Lis Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley — 159 cases, 12% alcohol The name of this wine from Dana Roberts sounds so lyrical, and like most examples of Pinot Gris, it plays so well with things from the sea.

And each June, visitors to Westport Winery and its Farm to Fork Restaurant can enjoy the 10,000 irises that Dana’s mother, Kim, grows on the property. Rulers in Europe turned the iris into an iconic symbol, and fans of the New Orleans Saints football team will recognize it as the club’s logo.

“It sounded alliterative to me,” Kim said. “And one of my husband’s surf partners, who at age 73 still surfs competitively, is a talented watercolor artist. I was going through his portfolio one day and saw this beautiful iris painting and said, ‘Can I have this for a wine label someday?’ ” The combination of that iris draped across a blue bottle makes for a striking package.

This vintage of Pinot Gris came from Airfield Estates Vineyard, the estate site for the Miller family winery in Prosser.

“We’ve had a great relationship with the Miller family,” Kim said. “They are a family similar to us in that the dad is running the farm, their daughter is running the office and their son is the winemaker.

It’s always nice to meet people wearing the same kind of shoes you are.”

Recently, the Roberts clan began to pair its wines with not only food, but also music. Kim also suggest serving their Pinot Gris with Broccoli Bisque while listening to As Time Goes By from the late Louis Armstrong — an iconic figure in New Orleans. Fans of modernday jazz may also enjoy it with Les Fleur, performed by pianist Ramsey Lewis.

And next June, Westport will stage its seventh annual Fleur de Lis Festival. There also are plans for a Frenchstyle marketplace that will be called Art in the Vines.

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out among three homes. And in a couple of years, their goal is to have established a destination garden.

“If not the Butchart Gardens of Washington state, then the coastal Ohme Gardens,” Kim said. “We want a place where families of all ages — people who like wine or don’t like wine, people with dogs — can come here and just experience the beauty of our region.”

Technically, it all began with the vineyard, then the winery, but one thing led to another in the family’s never-ending bid to address the desires of the legion of fans and wine club members. A recent example is their non-alcoholic Riesling grape juice, called Sunflower.

“At this point, I believe we have 38 different labels available,” Dana, the winemaker, said. “They are not all individual varieties, but different blends, different fruit combinations. And then we added three (hard) ciders this year that I’m working with my sister on.”

But the buck stops with Mom. “With 38 wines, we think that we’ve got something for most palates,” she said. “There are a few things we won’t make because I don’t make stuff I don’t like.”

And while she grew up in Marysville, Wash., this all goes back to Westport.

“I was raised on a chicken farm, so farming is kind of what I know,” Kim said. “When I was a kid, Dad brought me to Westport to go salmon fishing, and I just loved it. I wanted to be a fisherman, so I moved out here when I was 17 to work on the fishing boats. At that time, girls didn’t do that much.”

She ran a boat in the summers until August, when she’d return to Washington State University. The charterboat chick graduated in 1982 with two degrees.

“I put myself through architecture school working on the boats,” she said.

Rather than launch her career in Seattle, the siren of the sea overwhelmed her.

She opened an art gallery and design business in Westport.

There she met Blain, who was having a boat built in Grays Harbor.

“At the time, he owned the largest scuba diving business in Hawaii,” Kim said. “I moved with him to Hawaii, and we raised our kids there.”

They did well with Lahaina Divers Inc., which Blain founded in 1978, but Kim sought to trade paradise for a return to farm life. They moved to eastern Washington and did well turning around rundown farms, starting with 34 acres in Leavenworth. Five years later, the Roberts family found a 240acre farm west of Spokane so they moved again.

“All along, my husband promised me that he’ll bring me back to ‘The Harbor’ because this is where my heart was,” Kim said.

By this point, they were empty-nesters, so they bought a showpiece home on the water that needed no work. Almost immediately, Blain and Kim realized that wouldn’t work for them, but in 2007, they found a 20-acre parcel along Highway 105, halfway between Aberdeen and the ocean. They debated what to farm until meeting Don Tapio, a local agricultural extension agent for WSU who talked them into planting a vineyard and starting a winery.

“We actively disliked wine,” Kim admits.

“Our experience had been buying the cheapest bottle on the bottom shelf with the prettiest label and taking it to whomever invited us over for dinner.”

Fortunately, friends in Leavenworth introduced them to Icicle Ridge Winery. The Wagoners agreed to share some of their business acumen and help train Dana and Carrie.

Their winemaker, Don Wood, hired Dana to help in the cellar, while Carrie learned how to develop a wine club.

“Our daughter wanted to count the money, and our son wanted to be ‘the man,’” Kim said.

In 2008, they opened the winery and Dana continued his wine education through WSU. Two years later, they opened the restaurant at the request of customers who wanted more of Kim’s culinary class creations and desserts.

While the vineyard has been a struggle, Tapio’s more important prediction came true. Their unique business model works. An astounding 98 percent of their wine is sold out of their tasting room or their adjacent Farm to Fork Restaurant.

A portion of the proceeds from the sale of every bottle goes to the nonprofit designated on the back label of each wine. That’s 33 local charities for the wine. Carrie’s three new ciders benefit Mercy Ships as does their non-sparkling cranberry wine.

WINEPRESSNW.COM

Crab Cakes Serves 2

1 cup celery, diced 1 cup onion, diced 1 cup carrot, diced ½ cup garlic, diced ¼ cup butter, cubed 1. Sauté all of the vegetables in garlic butter and cool.

7 eggs 1 lemon zest and juice 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1-1/2 tablespoons parsley, chopped 7 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons salt 2 tablespoons Old Bay Seasoning 3 pounds Dungeness crab meat, picked and cleaned 4 cups, Panko bread crumbs 1. In a bowl, mix the lemon, lemon zest, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, green onions, salt and seasoning.

2. Combine with the sautéed ingredients.

3. Add the crab meat.

4. Add the Panko crumbs.

5. Let sit 30 minutes.

6. Form cakes into the size of a small biscuit.

7. Fry until brown and crisp on the outside.

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Bacon Jam 1 pound bacon 1 onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup brewed coffee ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 5 ½ ounces orange juice ¼ cup maple syrup 1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon orange zest ½ teaspoon ground ginger 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper ¼ cup Smoky Nor’wester red wine 1. Chop the bacon into 1/2inch pieces, then cook in pan until brown and crisp, leaving only 2 tablespoons of grease in the pot while pouring off the rest.

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2. Reduce heat to medium, then add the onions and garlic until they soften.

3. Add all other ingredients — except the wine — and simmer for 45 minutes.

4. Transfer to food processor and pulse until everything is finely chopped, then cook another 15 minutes.

5. Add the wine and cook another 30 minutes until it is thick and syrupy. This will hold in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks.

“We’ve contributed more than $250,000, which is a lot for a little family in a rural community, but we’re really proud of the opportunity,” Kim said.

There’s a fair bit of whimsy behind many of the labels, yet the Westport wines do well in blind competitions. In 2011, Wine Press Northwest named Westport as the Washington Winery to Watch.

“Customers get validation from hearing about us getting awards and they go ‘Yeah that’s my favorite wine that just got a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle or whatever the competition was,” Dana said.

“They know that the wines they love are acclaimed from international competitions and that they’re serious.”

The early success of the wines — combined with relationships Kim developed during her three-year appointment to the Washington State Wine Commission — helped the family to begin reaching into some of Washington’s top vineyards.

“Starting out as a small family winery with no credentials, you can’t simply walk into the best vineyards and say, ‘I would love to buy some of your fruit,’ ” Dana said. “It’s really quite a testament to the sheer quality of grapes grown in Washington state that we were able to come out with nice wines early in our learning curve.”

Making wine at Grays Harbor was a handicap, but a number of vineyard owners came to learn of Westport Winery while on vacation or through family living in the region. Among the first were Mike and Karen Sauer of famed Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley.

“Their trips to ‘The Harbor’ were probably the only reason we ever were able to meet them,” Dana said.

Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and Songbird Vineyard on Red Mountain also have ties to Grays Harbor, and they now also sell fruit to Westport. Other vineyards include Conner Lee, Lamonti, Olsen, Two Blondes and Upland.

Most certainly, Westport’s vineyard choices have improved with the Roberts family’s association with John Bookwalter, owner of J. Bookwalter in Richland and Woodinville, who has served as a consultant. In their twoyear-old relationship, he has helped guide them to better viticulture and winemaking practices, as well as occasional marketing advice.

One of Blain’s responsibilities is to make the nearly 20 trips across the Cascades each year to haul grapes to Westport. Somehow, Kim — a former newspaper reporter — WINEPRESSNW.COM

carves out time to write novels. There will be five in the series. Two have been published, and she’s working on the third.

“They are set on Maui, and the protagonist is Aloha Jones, who works in the harbor at Lahaina,” Kim said.

How does she find the time? Carrie jokes that her mother hangs upside down to sleep as she takes off at a moment’s notice.

“Now we have 2,000 raspberries plants, 2,000 Marionberries, 100 apple trees, 100 pear trees, 4,000 blueberries, 250 huckleberries, a display garden and culinary herb garden,” Kim points out. “We’re back farming.”

And people love to see it all as Westport Winery has been chosen as King 5 Evening Magazine’s Best Northwest Winery Tour/Destination four of the past five years.

When it came to the Match Maker assignment, that boiled down to Kim. Every recipe at Farm to Fork has her fingerprint, a skill she developed later in life.

“I never took home ec in school,” she said. “I took drafting. I did sports, I fished and skied, so I never learned to cook, and when we got married, Blain was a great and self-sufficient cook.”

That all changed one day at the Spokane farm when one of the kids lodged a complaint about the predictable school lunch Blain packed for them.

“The next day, I was in charge of the cooking and they got fruit roll-ups and Cheetos,” Kim said. “I had to take cooking classes, and I learned my baking from Eva Roberts at Just American Desserts in Spokane. I’ve had a lot of amazing teachers, and I just gather recipes, which I re-engineer.”

Being so close to the Pacific Ocean, one of her top items at Farm to Fork are crab cakes, which she paired with Dana’s Fleur de Lis Pinot Gris.

“Twice a week, my friend who owns a crab cannery drives fresh crab — 15 minutes away — up to us,” Kim said. “We get this beautiful, fresh-caught Dungeness crab, and our crab cakes probably aren’t like most others because they are mostly crab and very little cake.”

The Pinot Gris aromatics are floral with alyssum and apple blossom, joined by starfruit and lemon. Dana takes it dry with flavors of melon, lemon, gooseberry and Gala apple. Its bright and mouthwatering structure highlights the sweet crab.

As one might expect, there’s no pretense in Kim’s restaurant, and many of her guests love to get their hands around the hamburger.

It’s called The Bubba and is made with certified Angus beef. The special ingredient is her remarkable Bacon Jam, and she paired the burger with the Westport 2012 Swimmer Petite Sirah from Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope.

Dana shows a deft touch with this burly variety. It’s nose-filling and dense with black fruit notes of plum, blackberry, black cherry, joined by Aussie-style black licorice, blueberry taffy, black pepper and graphite. Inside, there’s a staunch but not aggressive approach of tannin with that core of dark fruit, making for a rich Petite Sirah that’s finished with chocolate-covered pomegranate.

“It’s probably one of the most exciting wines we make, and it’s received the most acclaim,” Kim said. “It’s just a big, delicious, fruity wine. And it really needed to be paired with our Bubba Burger.”

She described Bacon Jam, made using Dana’s Sangiovese, as “one of life’s best creations.” The key component is coffee.

“If you are a Northwesterner, that’s a good secret ingredient,” she said. “It’s been a fun project for us, and people love to come and buy the Bacon Jam — even if they don’t have time for a burger.”

Westport Winery $29 2012 Jones Vineyard Swimmer Petite Sirah, Wahluke Slope — 154 cases, 14% alcohol If the winemaker had his way, there would be something other than the picture of a smiling blond boy in a blue Speedo on the label of his Swimmer Petite Sirah.

“That’s what happens when your mom designs wine labels,” Dana Roberts sighed.

Proud mother Kim Roberts decided to feature her son — and will continue to do so — on the front of the Westport’s Petite Sirah.

“One of the things about having a rock star winemaker is that sometimes you need to help them be more humble,” Kim said with a wink. “He really regrets some of the artwork, but we tell people that he begged us to put that (picture of him) on the label.

As a parent, sometimes you have to even the scoreboard a little bit.”

The dominant image on the label shows Dana, in 1993, posing with a plaque that reads “Awesome Swimmer of the Fest. Dana Roberts 160 Laps HSO-L 1st Annual Swim Fest.”

The structure of the grape doesn’t match the label of a clean-cut, bare-chested pre-teen. In fact, Kim describes Dana’s Petite Sirah as, “A tattooed biker wine, muscular and dangerous.”

To her, it conjures up thoughts of the ‘60s rock classic “Born to be Wild” by Steppenwolf.

Petite Sirah is neither petite nor Syrah, but cross of Peloursin — an obscure Rhône variety — with pollen from Syrah. Until recently, Oregon regulations required its vintners to label the wine made from the grape as Durif. French botanist François Durif is credited with developing the variety around the time of the U.S. Civil War. While its berries are small, the wines they create rumble with tannin and scream with acidity.

However, when the alcohol is tamed, they age with grace.

A portion of the Swimmer proceeds are presented to the Grays Harbor Children’s Advocacy Center.

Westport Winery, 1 S. Arbor Road, Aberdeen, WA 98520, 360-648-2224, westportwinery.org.

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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY, YAMHILL COUNTY & SOUTHERN OREGON

The undiscovered Gem of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA Open daily 12-5 • Weekdays call 503 581-0355 8500 Hopewell Rd. NW, Salem, OR www.stangelandwinery.com

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wine country: Central Washington, LAKE CHELAN & LEAVENWORTH

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COLUMN

grapes of roth

BY COKE ROTH

It’s all about Pinot….

S

he has been called a mysterious temptress, a taunting mistress that engages and compels, and she is even known by her fan club as fickle. She is delicious whether in red or pink, and when she bubbles; offering up intrigue with every new look. She is rarely muscular, instead having smooth lines that fill up the senses…. like a night on the forest, like a mountain in springtime, like a walk in the rain… It’s easy for a manly sort of man like me to get gushy over a grape that I love to socialize and dine with… my old love, Pinot Noir.

Let’s start with me….it’s all about me.

My love for Pinot had a rocky start. My first encounter with Pinot was at a family dinner with a hard-as-nails Chateau Ste Michelle Pinot Noir from the late 1960’s. Later, after I was out of high school….er…college (don’tcha love a statute of limitations?), I tested the waters again in the early-1970s, this time with great Pinot Noir from France and California. Voila! We were palsy-walsies.

My standard for Pinot was established in the mid-1970’s with Oregon Pinot made by my old chums in the Willamette Valley (Amity, Erath, Ponzi, Sokol Blosser, Eyrie, Elk Cove and friends) and their even older counterparts in Bourgogne (French for Burgundy); Drouhin, Jadot (and amis). The style was most often of paler color, moderate in alcohol, low in oak and high in one category; a dominant red fruit profile (strawberry, pie cherry, raspberry, and red currant). Over the years, the proliferation of a couple hundred of the estimated 1,000 clonal mutants along with different viticultural and vinification regimes, have produced Pinot with richer color and an opulent black fruit profile, like Bing Cherry, black currant and blackberry… the new standard. Now you have darkly and lightly pigmented red and black fruit dominant Pinot. It’s all over the board! I can imagine your expression now…this old guy likes everything…again.

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Growers know Pinot as a short season frugal bearer; regularly weeks or months earlier and half or less normal tonnage of Northwest Cabernet Sauvignon. Pinot Nior fares best for becoming a red wine when grown in long sleeve weather, like most of northern Oregon, cooler microclimates of the Yakima Valley and places with elevation like Chelan. That is not to say it cannot be successfully grown in a Cabernet climate and make good wine, in particular sparkling wine. When used in the traditional cuvee’ blend for bubble, where Pinot is the Duke and Chardonnay is the Duchess, Pinot contributes body, acidity and finesse.

So, how did Pinot get stuck with this temptress, fickle handle? First off, paraphrasing fellow columnist and friend, Dan Berger, if two people of similar tastes will disagree on which wine they prefer, Pinot Nior will be it. While Dan’s position would explain the frugal awards in this judging, it also compels you to try the wines that were not, in the subjective minds of the judges, Outstanding. In reviewing my notes, several of my Outstanding’s received a Recommended….so try the wines….what the Hell do we know? It was all about us…

In an effort to explain this confounding, temperamental quality, understand that Pinot develops schizophrenia due to mildly differing cultural practices, weather and vinification protocols. Moreover, Pinot suffers from genetic instability; making it prone to capricious variation (“cloning” in winespeak); so the plant you toss in the soil might be wildly different from what was expected…you never know who you will wake up with.

Pinot growers suffer from mild masochism…spring frost damage due to early bud break, bugs and birds due to thin skin and early ripening, mineral deficiencies, shrivel… the list is long. And those who make it become insomniacs because Pinot is an unpredictable, petulant fermenter, and is prone to

biological contamination, like Brettanomyces (the barnyard/band aid thing) and acetification (the vinegar thing). These mental afflictions are epidemic in Oregon; there are over 320 wineries that produce Pinot, each with several versions, vineyard designations and the like.

In this Pinot judging, I was treated to glorious examples of my broadened new standard; whiffing Cassis and Marionberry, further expressing bold, broad Blueberry and fruit tea flavors with integrated fermentation and wood driven notes of cedar, chocolate, vanilla and leather. I am not so naïve to think some Syrah or Grenache might have been added, but not enough to shadow Pinot character. Wow, I sound like a wine writer, huh?!

I didn’t forget my love with old standard for Pinot… There she was; delicate, light garnet color, with a massive red fruit nose singing in perfect harmony with sensual, jammy flavors. And, recognizing that you don’t want to stand between me and something to eat, this is the exact kind of wine I love with food.

Did someone say “food”?! Pinot is the shining gold standard. In addition the French Coq au Vin (crockpot chicken in the Roth kitchen), there is no better wine with Salmon, Steelhead or Trout than Pinot Nior…. coincidence that the Left Coast has the best Salmon in the galaxy? I think not! Rock Hens, Brats, Venison and Lamb likewise get an “A” with Pinot.

So, once again, the old Futzer recommends you try wines that vary in style with or without an endorsement of some guy like moi or any assembled group….it’s all about you, after all. Find the Pinot style(s) you like, and toss some back with friends and food, always in moderation, frequently.

COKE ROTH is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. Learn more about him at cokerothlaw.com

WINEPRESSNW.COM

2014 Stan Clarke Award–Best Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 Amelia Wynn – 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Ruth Anglin Award – Best Syrah – 2014 Claar Cellars–Reserve 2010 Syrah Andy Markin A ward – Best Merlot – 2014 Browne Family – 2011 Merlot Governor’s Trophy Best Red – 2014 Brian Carter Cellars – Solesce – 2009 Bordeaux Blend Governor’s Trophy Best White – 2014 Willow Crest–2012 Riesling Best of Show–2014 Brian Carter Cellars – Solesce – 2009 Bordeaux Blend Double Golds San Juan Vineyards – 2013 Siegerrebe Saviah Cellars – 2011 G.S.M. Yakima Valley

Gold Medal Awards w

Exhibitor Name

Varietal

Amelia Wynn Canoe Ridge Vineyard Browne Family Vineyards Claar Cellars Tsillan Cellars Brian Carter Cellars Saviah Cellars Brian Carter Cellars Saviah Cellars Westport Winery Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards Wind Rose Cellars Wilow Crest Wine Estates Rio Vista Wines Westport Winery Smasne Cellars Smasne Cellars Thurston Wolfe Rio Vista Wines Nodland Cellars San Juan Vineyards

2011 2011 2011 2010 2011 2009 2010 2010 2011 2011 2013 2012 2012 2013 NV 2012 2012 2011 2012 2010 2013

Since 1982

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Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Syrah Syrah Solesce Big Sky Cuvee Byzance G.S.M Jetty Cat Nauti Bouy Dolcetto Riesling Viognier True Blue Late Harvest Muscat Zinfandel Tempranillo Barbera Carmenere Siegerrebe

Reserve Estate Reserve Bordeaux Blend Bordeaux Blend Rhone Blend Rhone Blend Red Blend

Avant-garde

Appellation Yakima/Walla Walla Horse Heaven HIlls Columbia Valley Columbia Valley Lake Chelan Columbia Valley Columbia Valley Columbia Valley Yakima Valley Columbia Valley Lake Chelan Columbia Valley Yakima Valley Columbia Valley Snipes Mountain Red Mountain Yakima Valley Columbia Valley Walla Walla Puget Sound

33rd Annual

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