Wine Press Northwest Spring 2016 by Wine Press Northwest

MERLOT JUDGING RESULTS | BOUTIQUE WINERIES | OREGON WINERY PROFILE

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Fresh Northwest Seafood is Our Priority Anthony’s opened our own seafood company in 1984 to ensure our guests the highest quality Northwest seafood. Our family-owned restaurants offer fresh seasonal produce, award-winning Washington wine lists and local brews.

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VOL. 18, NO. 1

Spring 2016

WINE PRESS NORTHWEST FEAT U RES

D E PARTME NTS

14 Walla Walla Vintners

Our 2016 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year

24 Regional Wineries of the Year 36 Stoller Family Estate has special relationship with the land 40 Northwest Washington boutique wineries carve out niche in expanding industry 44 Merlot Tasting Results 60 Match Makers

Budd’s Broiler Adds Sizzle to Washington Wine Country

Wine Knows The future of wine festivals

A Distant Perspective Washington Merlot underrated and thus under-priced

10 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Merlot: The Northwest’s quiet crowd pleaser

12 Nome de Vine Gilbert Cellars’ Gilbert Peak label series

56 Northwest Wine Events 70 Grapes of Roth Merlot tasting offered varietal variances

On the cover: Walla Walla Vintners vineyards nestled in the rolling hills of the Walla Walla Valley. Photo by Tom Olander/ Olander Design. 4

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

The future of wine festivals COLUMN

the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

The future of wine festivals

hen the Prosser Wine and Food Festival announced this winter that it was ending after 34 years, I was struck by a wave of nostalgia and melancholy. Two decades ago, it was the first wine event I ever attended. My wife and I — recently married and knowing little about wine — thought it would be fun to go. It turned out to be much more. It was there on the football field at Prosser High School where we fell in love with wine. It was an event that led me down a new path: a career in wine writing that has brought immeasurable levels of joy and gratitude. I won’t try to dissect what happened to the Prosser Wine and Food Festival and why its attendance dropped to the point where it no longer made sense to continue. Perhaps it was the success of the Washington wine industry — after all, who needs a festival when you can visit dozens of tasting rooms in and around this Yakima Valley community? More likely, however, the event merely continued without much change and, therefore, gave patrons fewer reasons to attend. I don't know for sure — honestly, I hadn’t gone for years — but there is a lesson to be learned here about how wine events must evolve to meet the needs and wants of wine lovers. Perhaps the best example of a wine event that has changed and grown more successful throughout the course of three decades is the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival in British Columbia. It started out much like many wine festivals: a walk-around tasting with a few dozen wineries pouring a few of their best bottles. But the Okanagan event was never built to stand still. Through the years, it added a wine competition, dinners, seminars and other fun opportunities. Today, the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival lasts 10 days and features more than 150 events, generating millions of dollars in tourism revenue and drawing tens of thousands of visitors to the interior of British Columbia during shoulder season. Not only that, but it also has given birth to festivals in

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spring and summer, as well as the winter IceWine Festival. Even with all that success, it still changes every year. In 2014, Woodinville Wine Country said farewell to what perhaps was its most successful event: Passport to Woodinville. End an event at the height of its popularity? Precisely. Finish on a high note, throw the winning touchdown to win the Super Bowl, then move on and create the next great thing. Don't just keep doing something because you’ve always done it. Keep inventing something new, fresh, interesting, exciting. Which brings about the question: What is the next thing in wine events? Are big walkaround tastings done? By the looks of Taste Washington, that answer would be “no.” But Taste Washington changes every year. It’s elastic. It’s evolving. It started as a one-evening affair and now has stretched to four days. Every year, it has a new twist, a different take. But I do think that we as wine lovers are looking for something new, something a little different, something more intimate and educational. I think events that bring together winemakers and consumers in ways that benefit all will become more mainstream. Serious wine lovers thrive on learning more about their favorite grape varieties, wines, wineries and winemakers. We want something closer to one-on-one time with those who produce their wine, not just a few seconds of conversation over thumping music and long lines while one is pouring a sip across a table at a wine festival. Instead, we want something a little more calm, slower paced, more hands-on. Winemaker dinners have long been a staple of good-quality wine events, thanks to the collaborations between chefs and winemakers. I wonder if these are starting to wane a bit, too. Do they need to be reinvented? One of the best winemaker dinners I’ve attended included a blending session with the winemaker — and I got to take home a bottle of wine of my own creation.

If we want to get a good sense of who is figuring out what we as consumers want, we just need to look at the most successful wine clubs. They are staples for most wineries these days because they mean a steady stream of customers who like the wines enough to hand over their credit card numbers in advance. But wine lovers don’t tend to stick around in wine clubs for too long. On average, it’s about 18 months before they move on to another winery. The key to success is keeping a member on for a long time. So while some wine clubs exist merely to provide early access to favorite wines, the most successful clubs are here to entertain, surprise and fill us with delight. They do this with wine-club-exclusive wines, special events, release parties, dinners, concerts and vineyard tours. The best and most memorable event I’ve ever attended in wine country was a harvest dinner for wine club members. It was in the middle of a vineyard, where a long table was set up under a tent for about 60 of us. It included dancers, opera singers and poets. The food and wines were amazing, but we didn’t really care because the setting was so remarkable, so magical, so unrepeatable. We want wine events that we can talk about at the office on Monday, that we can brag about on Facebook as it happens. Wine festivals must change or fade away. There isn't really another choice. ANDY PERDUE is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com. He’s also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Washington Merlot underrated and thus under-priced

nlike many wine writers who are basically Merlot curmudgeons, I truly love Merlot – especially when it is made with excellent fruit and by a skilled winemaker. As with many such high-caliber wines, such conditions can be expensive (including the use of new French Oak barrels) and thus the wines usually cost more. An awful lot of wine that is called Merlot and sells for a lot less than the premium stuff does not have the basic varietal aroma or taste of true Merlot and thus the wines can be bland and innocuous. Which is why Merlot got such a bad reputation about a decade ago. Of course at $5 or so, very few people seek actual varietal character. It is when the wine reaches $20 or more that the distinctiveness of the grape variety becomes an issue. The problem here may well be laid at the feet of millennial buyers who never had the basic training to be able to identify why a bland red wine that says Merlot on the label basically is generic in both aroma and taste. As a result they tend to blame grape variety. And producers of $5 Merlots are perfectly happy to make a wine that has little distinction, as long as it sells. The evidence is in the fact that an awful lot of under-$10 Merlot continues to sell. I suspect those buyers are satisfied as long as the wine is drinkable, even though it is completely unremarkable. The basic aromatics of great cooler climate Merlot include red cherry, bits of green olives, mint, tea, and other faintly herbal aromatics. These can be married with some of the classy maturity that time in the barrel gives a quality red wine. And for a time the bigger-is-better school of winemaking infected a lot of Merlot that became popular with millennials who didn’t really care about varietal character anyway. We began to see this in the early 2000s and noted that the trend even began compromising some of Washington’s state’s best Merlots. The good news is that for the most part, we have come to our senses. What has occurred 8

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in the last six or so years has been a saner approach. As evidenced in the results of the platinum judging of the last three years, tannic and slightly overripe Merlots are now considered obsolete by a growing percentage of Pacific Northwest winemakers, who realize that Merlot’s best format is drinkability. Indeed, for decades consumers who loved Cabernet, but not its tannins ended up buying Merlot - as tannic as it might be, because the grape actually does make a wine that is noticeably less tannic than Cabernet. What was so appealing about this switch to a more moderate style was the wines’ more ready-to-drink-ness, which allowed consumers to enjoy the wine sooner without the cellar aging requirements of Cabernet or the harsher Merlots of a decade earlier. The great news here is that winemakers clearly have made a conscious effort to keep alcohol levels under 14%. Not only does it save money (there is added tax for a 14%+ alcohol wine) but the wines do not display the harshness of a higher-alcohol product. Winemakers are also now aware that tannins may be necessary, but in a far less aggressive way. So we now have a better template on which to build a new visage for a great wine grape that makes a wine that can be better than the wines of decades ago, especially from a popular movie about a wine lover -- and perpetual loser -- that was so comical yet had such a negative impact on you Merlot sales. We know that Washington is a blessed place for world-class Merlot, and this new form in which it is being seen gives winemakers different target and consumers a far better drink to pair with their meals. But there is a bonus here. And that is what happens more to Washington state Merlot than happens in California. It is in the way they age. Part of this may well be due to the fact that the majority of California Merlots tend to be a bit riper off the vine and thus do not have the proper acid and pH levels to age

properly. Not that aging is essential for most Merlots, but I have long experience with Washington state Merlots that took on remarkable characteristics in the bottle. It all began for me in 1989 when I first tasted the 1986 Gordon Brothers Merlot, and decided it was a candidate to improve in the cellar. So I bought six bottles (all I could get) and stashed them at home in very cool conditions. Over the years I have judiciously opened all but one of them, and they have all proven to be simply remarkable in the depth and complexity that they offered. Over the years, it was evident that many Washington producers’ Merlots also had this ability to deliver complexities in time that made them remarkable and fortunately different from Cabernet. I now think of Washington as a place where Merlot more often can be made to reflect the grape variety with a lot more distinction than most other places on the planet. I have had a similar experience with Merlot from southern Tuscany, from parts of New Zealand, and even South Africa. But Washington seems to have developed more reliability with Merlot that almost any other region I can think of, and that includes some areas of Bordeaux that are widely acclaimed by wine collectors. So is Washington Merlot underrated and thus under-priced? I believe so, but this view would never be reflected by the majority of scores you will see in glossy magazines or on the Internet. Because to some degree, Merlot is still under-appreciated. And as for my last bottle of the 1986 Gordon brothers in my cellar, I fully believe it is in great shape. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column, Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2016 Award Winners PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINNERS

2016 SWEEPSTAKE WINNERS

BEST OF CLASS

SPARKLING SWEEPSTAKE WINNER

14 Hands Winery 2013 The Reserve Red Blend,

Kandarian Wine Cellars 2012

Seven of Hearts

Horse Heaven Hills

Los Oidos Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley

2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Korbel Brut California Champagne, Organically Grown Grapes, California

Airlie Winery 2012 Pinot Noir Label,

King Estate

Tsillan Cellars

Willamette Valley

2014 Domaine Pinot Gris, Oregon

2014 Gewurztraminer, Lake Chelan

College Cellars 2013 Scholarship Red,

Mercer Estates

Walla Walla Valley

2013 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills

WHITE SWEEPSTAKE WINNER V. Sattui Winery 2014 Los Carneros Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California

DOUBLE GOLD Agate Ridge Vineyard 2012 Estate

Dusted Valley Vintners 2013

Bitner Vineyards 2012 Tempranillo

Eleven Winery 2012 Sugarloaf Vineyard

Viognier, Rogue Valley

Petite Sirah, Wahluke Slope

Snake River Valley

Mourvedre, Yakima Valley

Bunnell Family Cellar 2012 Discovery

PINK SWEEPSTAKE WINNER Barnard Griffin 2015 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, Washington

RED SWEEPSTAKE WINNERS Runquist 2013 Zinfandel, Nostro Vino Vineyard, Amador County, California Sonnet Wine Cellars 2013 Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, California

DESSERT/SPECIALTY SWEEPSTAKE WINNER Claar Cellars 2013 Riesling “Ice Wine,” White Bluff Vineyards, Columbia Valley, Washington

WINE LABEL SWEEPSTAKE WINNER Scratchpad Terravant Wine Company 2014 Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc Full results online at winejudging.com

‘37 Cellars

2013 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley

14 Hands Winery 2013 The Reserve Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills

A to Z Wineworks 2014 Chardonnay, Oregon

Abacela 2012 Malbec Umpqua Valley

Agate Ridge Vineyard 2010 Black Sticky, Rogue Valley

Agate Ridge Vineyard

2013 Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc, Rogue Valley

Airfield Estates

2013 Merlot, Yakima Valley

Airlie Winery 2014 Müller Thurgau, Willamette Valley

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills

Tempranillo, Rogue Valley

For a Song 2014 Caliche Lake Riesling,

Cairdeas Winery

Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley

2013 Trí Yakima Valley

Camaraderie Cellars 2013 Dionysius Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Foris Vineyards

2014 Pinot Blanc, Oregon

Foundry Vineyards 2012 Syrah Columbia Valley Gamache Vintners

Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2012 Merlot Horse Heaven Hills

2012 Syrah, Columbia Valley

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2013 Moody Vineyards Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley

Huston Vineyards 2013 Huston Merlot, Snake River Valley Iris Vineyards 2014 Chalice Estate

Columbia Crest 2012 Reserve

Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Dancin Vineyards 2014

Folin Cellars 2012 Folin Vineyards

Trata Pinot Noir, Southern Oregon

Chardonnay, Oregon

Jones of Washington 2014 Pinot Gris, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley

King Estate 2013 Pinot Noir, Oregon Milbrandt Vineyards 2012 Cabernet

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

Portlandia 2013 Pinot Gris, Oregon Naches Heights Vineyard

2012 Merlot, Wahluke Slope

2013 Syrah, Umpqua Valley

Seven Falls Cellars

Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope

Sol Duc 2010 Meritage Blend, Columbia Valley

2014 Pinot Gris, Naches Heights

SuLei Cellars

Newhouse Family Vineyards

2013 Beet Red, Columbia Valley

2010 Upland Vineyards Vestige, Snipes Mountain

Tesoaria Vineyard & Winery 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Southern Oregon

Obelisco Estate 2012 Cabernet BDX,

Three Rivers Winery 2013 Cabernet

Red Mountain

Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Pacific Oasis Winery 2013 Riesling, Columbia Valley

Walla Walla Vintners 2013 Cabernet

Pebblestone Cellars 2014 Ellis Vineyards Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley

Walla Walla Vintners 2013 Merlot,

Red Lily Vineyards

2012 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley

Franc, Columbia Valley Walla Walla Valley

Westport Winery 2013 Swimmer Petite

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

2013 Masada Bloc Syrah, Umpqua Valley

Sirah, Wahluke Slope

WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Emery Pinot

King Estate 2014 Pinot Gris, Oregon

Noir, Yamhill-Carlton

GOLDS Amelia Wynn Winery 2013 Dwelly Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley

Anam Cara Cellars 2013 Nicholas

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012

Gamache Vintners

Mercer Estates 2013 Sharp Sisters

Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

2012 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2011 Malbec, Columbia Valley

2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley

Gougér Cellars

Northstar

Gamache Vintners

Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills

Nine Hats

Vineyard Dry Riesling, Chehalem Mountains

2013 Mimi Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills

ArborBrook Vineyards

Cliff Creek 2011 Sams Valley Cabernet

2014 Pinot Noir, Washington

2012 Red Blend, Walla Walla Valley

College Cellars 2013 Clarke Vineyard

Grace Lane 2014 Riesling, Yakima Valley Gravel Bar

Pacifica By Evans Vineyard

Grizzly Peak

2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley

2013 Heritage Cuvee Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains

Aubichon 2013 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

Avennia 2013 Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley

Barnard Griffin 2009 Reserve

Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Bitner Vineyards 2014 Late

Franc, Southern Oregon

Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley

College Cellars 2014 Anderson

Vineyard Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley

Columbia Crest 2014 H3 Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills

Cougar Crest Estate Winery

2013 Alluvial Red Blend, Wahluke Slope 2013 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley

Hedgeline Vineyards 2014 Riesling, Washington

Hogue Cellars

Harvest Riesling, Snake River Valley

2012 Cougar Hills Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley

2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley

Brady Cellars 2013 Angiolina Farm

Coyote Canyon Winery

Hood Crest Winery 2013 Waving

Grenache, Yakima Valley

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery

2013 Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills

Coyote Canyon Winery

Tree Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

J. Scott Cellars

2014 Treats Riesling, Elkton Oregon

2011 Tres Cruces, Horse Heaven Hills

2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Browne Family Vineyards

Cuckoo’s Nest Cellars

Kerloo Cellars 2013 Stone Tree

2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley

2014 Pinot Gris, Oregon

Bunnell Family Cellar

Deer Creek Vineyards

Vineyard Tempranillo, Wahluke Slope

Kriselle Cellars

2011 ALX Syrah, Columbia Valley

2014 Pinot Noir, Oregon

2013 Di’tani, Rogue Valley

Bunnell Family Cellar 2010

Del Rio Vineyards

L’ecole No 41 2013 Estate Seven Hills

2012 Claret, Rogue Valley

Vineyard Perigee, Walla Walla Valley

Del Rio Vineyards

Locus 2013 Red, Yakima Valley Marchesi Vineyards

Discovery Vineyard Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills

Burnt Bridge Cellars

2013 Couve Cuvee, Columbia Valley

2014 Chardonnay, Rogue Valley

Dobbes Family Estate

2013 Pace, Holiday Blend, Columbia Valley

Expedition Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills

2012 Fortmiller Vineyard Syrah, Oregon

Canoe Ridge Vineyard

Dusted Valley Vintners

2013 Cereja, Uvvagio, Columbia Valley

Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2013 The 2014 The Expedition Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills

Charles & Charles

2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley

2013 Stained Tooth Syrah, Columbia Valley

Et Fille 2012 Kalita Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton

Marchesi Vineyards

Martin-Scott Winery 2012 Shaw

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain

2014 Rose, Columbia Gorge

Swiftwater Cellars

2012 Zephyr Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills

Swiftwater Cellars

2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Tesoaria Vineyard & Winery 2013 Zinfandel, Southern Oregon

Two Vintners 2013 Stonetree Vineyard

Poet’s Leap

Zinfandel, Wahluke Slope

Reininger Winery

2011 Syrah, Snake River Valley

2012 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2013 Engedi And Onyx Bloc Riesling, Umpqua Valley

Rolling Bay Winery 2014 Upland

Vale Wine Co.

Valenzano Winery 2013 Malbec, Washington

Van Duzer Vineyards 2013

Westside Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Waitsburg Cellars

Vineyards Chardonnay, Snipes Mountain

2013 Three Red Blend, Columbia Valley

Schmidt Family Vineyards 2012

Waterbrook Winery

Seven Falls Cellars 2013 Cabernet

Waterbrook Winery

Seven of Hearts

Weisinger Family Winery

Sf Vineyards Merlot, Applegate Valley Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope

2013 Chardonnay, Willamette Valley

Silvara Vineyards

2013 Meritage, Columbia Valley

Spring Valley Vineyard

2012 Frederick Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley

Spring Valley Vineyard

2014 Merlot, Columbia Valley

2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley

2012 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley

Willakenzie Estate

2014 Pinot Gris, Yamhill-Carlton

Willakenzie Estate

2013 Gisèle Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton

Willakenzie Estate

2012 Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley

2012 Pierre Léon Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton

Swiftwater Cellars

2014 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley

2011 Proprietary Red, Columbia Valley

Swiftwater Cellars

2012 Malbec, Columbia Valley

Willow Crest Winery Zerba Cellars

2014 Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley

COLUMN

swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Merlot: The Northwest’s quiet crowd pleaser

ack in the spring of 1998 when Wine Press Northwest magazine published its inaugural issue, we chose Merlot for our first-ever judging of Northwest wines. At the time, Washington Merlot was riding a wave of justified popularity and was battling with Oregon Pinot Noir for red wine supremacy in the Northwest. “The rising star of Washington,” noted the late Bob Woehler, who at the time had been writing about Northwest wines for 20-plus years and was arguably the dean — at least in longevity — of Northwest wine scribes. Chateau Ste. Michelle, with its standard bearer Canoe Ridge Vineyards, regularly cranked out some of the best, supplemented by many others because Merlot was a consistent winner. In that tasting, Canoe Ridge 1995 tied for second, beaten by a 1993 Preston. Others tied for second were the 1994 Columbia Crest and the 1995s from Kiona, Walla Walla Vintners, L’Ecole, and Columbia Milestone from Red Willow Vineyards. All were judged gold medal quality. Eighteen years later, Merlot has become the Rodney Dangerfield of red wine. It gets no respect. Which is a shame, because it has soldiered on through the decades, regularly producing shining examples of red wine when standing on its own. And when blended into Bordeaux-style wine, it stands quietly behind “King” Cabernet Sauvignon, smoothing his faults, integrating seamlessly with more recent immigrants to our vineyards, including Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. And we mustn’t forget that Merlot just sighs (again, quietly, of course) when enterprising winemakers break with convention and slip a slug of Syrah into what we Northwesterners often call a “Washington Bordeaux” blend to remedy a saggy midpalate. That first judging conducted by Wine Press Northwest had its faults, but the choice of wine varietal was not among them. Many of the 45 wines judged were outstanding, though I suspect if we could bring the gold medal winners forward in time without any aging and match them against the gold medal 10

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winners of 2016, we would rank this new crop as a bit better on average. That’s because our region’s growers and winemakers have learned a lot about how to produce great wines over the years. Interestingly, most of those Merlots, which were from the 1993-96 vintages, cost $15 to $20, Woehler wrote. Astoundingly, a fair number of gold-medal quality Merlots still fall into that same price range roughly 20 vintages later. And quite a few more of equal quality sell for $20 to $25. So, why has Merlot’s star sagged in the intervening years? Well, our universe of wine has expanded with its own big bang, with new grape varieties planted and coming into production every year since. Wine lovers are swamped with new choices. And, there was that curious California phenomenon some years back, when an uproariously funny movie called “Sideways” took an undeserved swipe at Merlot and promoted Pinot Noir at its expense. Afterward, Merlot sales shrank. You would think that a movie — which featured a Pinot Noir worshipper who drinks from a dump bucket and his soon-to-wed buddy who’s off for one last philander and ends up running down the road naked — would not have, shall we say, much street cred. But it did. So, many wine lovers willingly stock up on $40 to $60 or more bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. When often they could buy a Merlot of equal quality for about half as much, maybe even less. That’s why my cellar contains a lot of Merlot. Yes, I love an ostentatious Cab or a voluptuous Pinot. But my budget won’t manage a $40 or $60 wine every time I want to drink an excellent red. So, I turn to a dependably fine Merlot, often costing $15 to $25. It’s a wine I’m always happy to hang out with. Typically, it will display nice oak aromatics of spice, blackberry, blueberry and perhaps cherry, then show the same qualities in the mouth and finish with firm tannins and a touch of chocolate. If you haven’t sat down with a fine Merlot

like that recently, you should. In this edition, we’ve made it easy to find one to suit every palate and pocketbook. We tasted and rated 100 of them. Among the $20 and under gold-medal winners were Seven Falls Cellars 2012, a product of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, and Barnard Griffin Winery’s 2013. And several more of the 21 gold-medal Merlots were $25 or less, which means you likely can find them on sale for right around $20. Wine word: Barrique Since it’s the season for spring barrel tastings, why not a little lesson about the French word for the most common barrel size, the barrique, which is usually 53 or so gallons? As with all things involving France and wine, there are exceptions. In Champagne, it’s 54; in Bordeaux and Spain, 59; in Burgundy, 60; and in Australia and New Zealand, 79 to 83, according to The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia. As you stroll through our region’s barrel rooms this spring, take a moment to notice the barrels. You’ll likely discover some are American, some French, some Hungarian. You might even see Russian, Balkan or Oregon, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Pennsylvania, Missouri or Kentucky. Of the six French oak forests, you’re most likely to encounter Limousin. Then note what else is written on the barrels. Besides the maker’s mark, you may see something like “MT” — for medium toast. (There also are light and heavy toast barrels.) Or “TH” for toasted head, which means the end of the barrel also is toasted inside to impart slightly more oakiness to the wine. It’s worth noting whether a winery prefers one country’s barrels or prefers to use a blend of barrels from different areas. And it’s worth asking for more information. Sometimes barrels are made with a blend of oak staves from different forests or regions. Ken Robertson, the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Award-winning wines, yes! And so much more

WEDDINGS, RECEPTIONS, AND PRIVATE PARTIES A Unique Venue For That Special Event Gallery ~ Barrel Room ~ Courtyard

THE WINERY 1213 W Railroad Avenue, Spokane ~ 509.465.3591 Tasting Room Open Daily Noon – 5pm office@barristerwinery.com ~ www.barristerwinery.com DOWNTOWN TASTING ROOM 203 N Washington Street, Spokane ~ 509.413.1090 Open Noon – 7pm, Tue-Sat; Noon – 6pm, Sun-Mon

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nom de vine

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Gilbert Cellars’ Gilbert Peak label series BY JON BAUER

ou won’t find it among his written opinions as an associate justice of the U.S. Supreme Court, but one decision by William O. Douglas lives on as the namesake on a wine label. Douglas, who holds the record for longest service on the nation’s highest court, from 1939 to 1975, grew up in Yakima and was valedictorian at Yakima High School. He also was close friends and a hiking buddy of Curtiss Richey Gilbert. Gilbert’s family had come to the Yakima Valley from Illinois farm country in 1897 to raise tree fruit. Gilbert, four years older than Douglas, fought in World War I, but returned to Yakima in 1918 to help with the family’s orchards. And he also explored the Cascade Range and what would become the Goat Rocks Wilderness in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest with Douglas, said Laura Rankin, great granddaughter of Gilbert, and one of several Gilbert progeny, five generations deep in the Yakima valley, who help run the Gilbert Cellars winery in Yakima. The men hiked throughout the Cascades, using makeshift equipment and suffering through “a lot of blisters, I think,” Rankin said. Douglas began a law career that took him to the Supreme Court, and Gilbert stayed in the valley, but the two continued their friendship and their shared love of Washington state’s wilderness. Both remained avid hikers and outdoorsmen for many years, Rankin said. But Gilbert suffered a bad fall on Mount Stuart in what is now the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in 1946. Gilbert died a year later, possibly of a heart attack, said Rankin, but it’s likely his death ···

Gilbert Cellars

DowntownTasting Room 5 N. Front St. Yakima, Wash. 98901 509-249-9049

Hackett Ranch

2620 Draper Rd. Yakima, WA 98903 www.gilbertcellars.com 12

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was related to the climbing accident. To honor his friend’s memory, Douglas arranged for Goat’s Peak, the highest peak in the Goat Rocks Wilderness at 8,814 feet and a favorite of the two no cpation friends, to be renamed Mount Curtiss Gilbert, later Gilbert Peak, in 1949. Renaming a geological feature likely involved less red tape at the time, Rankin said, and it helped that “Douglas was a Supreme Court justice at the time.” For years the family has marked the occasion with organized hikes to the summit of Gilbert Peak, Rankin said. But more recently Gilbert Peak and its namesake have been memorialized on the family winery’s Gilbert Peak label wines. The Supreme Court justice couldn’t have picked a better mountain for the winery’s purposes. The winery’s vineyards, some planted as early as 1984, are fed by the Tieton River, with water from Gilbert Peak’s glaciers, filtered by its volcanic soils. “It wasn’t a connection we made until years later when we realized that some of the lifeblood of this agricultural region comes from the glacier atop Gilbert Peak,” Rankin said. The Gilbert family branched out from its fruit trees and started Gilbert Cellars in 2004. The Gilbert Peak label followed in 2014, and its most recent releases by winemaker Justin Neufeld are a 2013 unoaked Chardonnay with grapes from the Wahluke Slope’s Peach 10 and Sunrise vineyards and a

2014 rosé of Mourvedre and Grenache from the Columbia Valley’s 24K vineyard. The label, by San Francisco designer Heroist, celebrates the history and geology of the mountain and the region. On the rosé label, a cross-section of the mountain suggests different layers of rock and lava channels. The mountain’s image on the Chardonnay label is a silhouette in blue watercolor. On the back of both, Rankin said, an overlay of a 19th century alluvial map alludes to more of the region’s geologic history. “We really wanted to tell a story of waterways and soil types, see it as the roots of the vines. I love how it communicates so many different ideas,” Rankin said. Certainly, it would please the court and two old hiking buddies. JON BAUER is Wine Press Northwest’s Salish Sea correspondent. The longtime newspaperman lives near La Conner, Wash.

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EXTRAORDINARY WINES. UNPARALLELED DESTINATION. A Columbia Gorge winery that sits just above the Columbia River with an unbelievable view of Mount Hood. Our boutique winery takes pride in producing high-quality wines sourced from the finest vineyards in the region. Visit our delightful new tasting room for an experience worth the spectacular journey through the stunning landscape of the Columbia Gorge.

3 Avery Rd, (Avery Park off Hwy 14), Wishram, WA www.jacobwilliamswinery.com (541) 645-0462

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2016 PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINERY OF THE YEAR:

// BY ANDY PERDUE

ALLA WALLA, Wash. — When Gordy Venneri and Myles Anderson launched Walla Walla Vintners in 1995, they thought they might be too late to the game.

After all, Walla Walla already had seven wineries — including some of the state’s luminary producers: Leonetti Cellar, Woodward Canyon Winery and L’Ecole No. 41. “We felt like we were johnny-come-latelies,” Venneri said. “We thought, ‘Well, there’s already seven wineries. Is there room for another? Are we going to be able to sell our wine?’” Little did the two longtime friends realize they were still on the leading edge of a Walla Walla Valley wine explosion, a region that now is home to more than 100 wineries. And since that inaugural 1995 vintage, Walla Walla Vintners has been recognized as one of the finest producers in Washington, a winery with legions of fans who happily buy every bottle it makes. 14

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Long-time friends Gordy Venneri (left) and Myles Anderson, in 1995 launched Walla Walla Vintners, a winery recognized as one of the region’s finest producers for nearly two decades. Photo by Colby Kuschatka, CDK Imaging WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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Walla Walla Vintners’ quality, history and place in the wine industry have earned it Wine Press Northwest magazine’s 2016 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, rising to the top of a list of producers that now approaches 2,000 in number. The origins are humble and simple, a tale of two men who become friends, share a love for wine, hone their craft as amateurs, then take the leap into the business world and find sudden success. Anderson began making wine as a hobby in 1978 and taught wine appreciation classes at Gonzaga University in Spokane before moving to Walla Walla Community College, where he was a counselor and administrator. In 1981, Venneri began teaching business classes at Walla Walla Community

College. He was 28 and wanted a job that could get him the summer off to travel to Italy and find his family roots. That summer, he traveled to Calabria in the boot of Italy, visiting the village of Serra Pedace, which his grandfather emigrated from two generations earlier. There, he met his cousins, and they were home winemakers. “Over there, you have wine for lunch and wine for dinner. You get a liter of wine and enjoy it with food,” he said. “You don’t go to Europe without coming back with the wine bug.” When he returned, he got together with Anderson. “We decided to find some grapes around here and make wine that fall,” Venneri said.

“That was the roots of Walla Walla Vintners.” For the next 13 years, the two made wine and became good friends with Rick Small, owner of Woodward Canyon Winery, and Gary Figgins, owner of Leonetti Cellar. As it turns out, Figgins’ ancestors also were from Serra Pedace and Venneri and Figgins are distant cousins. Leonetti now has a vineyard in the southern Walla Walla Valley called Serra Pedace. Anderson said Figgins and Small were instrumental in his development as a home winemaker. “They were very supportive, very helpful and taught us a lot,” he said. In 1995, Anderson and Venneri decided to turn professional. They weren’t ready to make it a full-time gig, but they hoped to sell

Lavender lines the drive from the front gate to the tasting room. Photo by Tom Olander/ Olander Design. 16

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enough wine to support their hobby. They built a building on land east of Walla Walla, purchased barrels and prepared for a much larger harvest than they had been used to when they were making wine in a garage. Unknown to Venneri and Anderson, the second wave of Walla Walla wineries was revving up. At the same time they were launching Vintners, wineries such as Dunham Cellars, Canoe Ridge Vineyard, Bunchgrass Cellars and Glen Fiona also were getting going. “We made 600 cases that first year,” Venneri said. “We were worried about whether we would be able to sell them all because we went from making a barrel or two a year of homemade wine to 30 barrels of commercial wine. It was never our plan that we would make so much money that we could retire. It was a fun secondary income.” The two developed a mailing list, just like other wineries were. As those first wines were patiently aging in barrels for two years, Venneri and Anderson talked to friends and wine lovers and began signing up potential customers. When the wines were ready, they sent out a brochure and waited for the fax machine to start accepting orders. “That first year, we pretty much sold out all of our wine within a month,” Venneri said. “There was a big demand for Washington wine, and 600 cases isn’t that many to sell. We thought it was, but as it turned out, it wasn’t. We couldn’t ring the sales up fast enough.” The first couple of years, the two sold nearly all of their wine directly to customers, without the need to distribute any at wholesale prices to wine shops or restaurants. In 2000, Doug Charles took notice of the Walla Walla Vintners wines and wanted to include them in a new business he was opening: Compass Wines in Anacortes. “Gary (Figgins) gave me a bottle out of his cellar when they first opened,” Charles said. “I loved the wines. There was a Vintners buzz in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. When we opened the shop, we bought up a bunch of Vintners stuff.” Venneri remembers meeting Charles — and being uninterested in selling him wine. He knew he could sell his wine at full retail and saw little reason to give it to Charles for less. So Charles offered to buy 25 cases at full retail just to have the wine, which at the time was less than $20 a bottle. Venneri WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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Walla Walla Vintners vineyards nestled in the rolling hills of the Walla Walla Valley. Photo by Andrea Anderson, courtesy of Walla Walla Vintners.

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reluctantly went along with the deal, giving him a little bit of a discount. “He was one of the first guys we wholesaled to,” Venneri said. Through the years, Charles has remained a loyal fan and features the Vintners wines at Compass. “They age beautifully,” he said. “They have acid structure and are not as fleshy up front. It’s a classic structure for aging. They seem to have kept that same elegant Walla Walla style. They haven’t become bigger wines. They’ve maintained that elegance.” In his “Rare Washington Wines” club, Charles typically features the Vintners’ Sagemoor Cabernet Sauvignon or Vintage Select — and his customers love them. “They’re one of the gems in Walla Walla,” Charles said. “They’re not as famous as the other guys, but they consistently make great wines.” Great indeed.

In the first 16 years of Wine Press Northwest’s Platinum Judging — a competition that includes only gold medal winners — Walla Walla Vintners has earned 12 Platinum awards. Five of those came last fall with three wines from the vaunted 2012 vintage and two from 2013. The Walla Walla Vintners 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon was the No. 2 overall wine out of nearly 700 entries, having earned its way into the judging by winning double gold and best of show at the Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition. In 2002, William VonMetzger joined the team at Walla Walla Vintners. He had been one of the first students at Walla Walla Community College’s viticulture and enology program — which Anderson was instrumental in starting in 2000. Through the years, VonMetzger was given more responsibility until he was named head winemaker about five years ago.

In 2011, Anderson was elected into the Legends of Washington Wine Hall of Fame, housed at the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center in Prosser. Today, Venneri is 62 and Anderson is 75. Venneri retired from his day job about a decade ago — “the winery got so big that one of us had to retire, and I had a more flexible schedule” — and began to focus more on sales. Anderson has retired from Walla Walla Community College three times: He was brought back a couple of times to fill in for vacancies in the winemaking program, but his most recent retirement three years ago seems to have stuck. Venneri and Anderson work closely with VonMetzger, participating in barrel tastings and blending and handling a lot of jobs during harvest. They remain the faces of Walla Walla Vintners while the more reticent VonMetzger is happiest while hiding in the

Members of the winemaking team at Walla Walla Vintners are (left to right): Co-owner and founding winemaker Myles Anderson, Director of Vineyards Operations and Enologist Judah Pira, Winemaker Bill vonMetzger, Co-owner and founding winemaker Gordy Venneri and Assistant Winemaker Todd Bernave. Photo by © Andrea Anderson, courtesy of Walla Walla Vintners 18

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Visiting

225 Vineyard Lane, Walla Walla, Wash. 509-525-4724 www.wallawallavintners.com Hours: Open 1 to 5 p.m. Fridays and 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Saturdays or by appointment.

The image of this distinctive barn, housing the winery, is featured on the winery labels. Photo courtesy of Walla Walla Vintners.

NORTHWEST

Northwest Winery of the Year 2016

A legacy of passion for outstanding red wines. Elegance. Character. Consistency.

Don’t miss Walla Walla’s pioneer, award-winning winery in the shadow of the picturesque Blue Mountains.

www.wallawallavintners.com WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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cellar. Judah Pira — Anderson’s son-in-law — works closely with grape growers. Today, the team makes about a dozen wines each vintage, all reds. They’re now getting fruit from their estate 11-acre vineyard, which rises up the hill behind the winery off Mill Creek Road. They’ve maxed out their

facility at around 6,000 cases and don’t have any great interest in growing bigger. With all their successes, Venneri and Anderson remain earnest and honest about the way they run the winery. They seem in awe that they still have no troubles selling wine, and they don’t take that for granted.

“It’s not about money,” Venneri said. “It”s about what kinds of wines we like, as long as we don’t go broke. That’s our business plan.” ANDY PERDUE is editor and publisher of Great Northwest

Wine (greatnorthwestwine.com) and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

How the Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year is chosen The Winery of the Year is selected based on longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations. A winery may win the award once.

Past Pacific Northwest Wineries of the Year 2015: 2014: 2013: 2012: 2011: 2010: 2009: 2008: 2007: 2006: 2005: 2004: 2003: 2002:

Maryhill Winery, Goldendale, Wash. Stoller Family Estate, Dayton, Ore. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, Wash. Thurston Wolfe, Prosser, Wash. Zerba Cellars, Milton-Freewater, Ore. Vin du Lac, Chelan, Wash. Wild Goose Vineyards, Okanagan Falls, B.C. Dunham Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash. Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston, Ore. Barnard Griffin: Richland, Wash. Ken Wright Cellars: Carlton, Ore. L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash. Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash. Walla Walla Vintners vineyards nestled in the rolling hills of the Walla Walla Valley. Photo by Andrea Anderson, courtesy of Walla Walla Vintners.

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TELAYA WINE CO. BY ERIC DEGERMAN

ARDEN CITY, Idaho — It’s unprecedented to go from “winery to watch” to “winery of the year” within 12 months, but that’s an indication of how successful Earl and Carrie Sullivan have been with Telaya Wine Co. “We say that we’re having fun making serious wine, and that’s the goal,” he said inside Telaya’s new 12,000-square-foot winery and tasting room alongside the Boise River. Last year, the Gem State’s 2016 Winery of the Year racked up a number of gold medals along the West Coast. The Telaya 2012 Syrah received a double gold and 2012 Viognier a gold medal both at the Seattle Wine Awards. The 2013 Turas — a Syrah-based blend from the Snake River Valley, earned a gold at the Idaho Wine Competition. Arguably the Sullivans’ top wine was their 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon. It won the Chairman’s Award at the Riverside (Calif.) International Wine Competition, a gold in Seattle and a coveted double platinum in Wine Press Northwest’s year-end Platinum Judging. That Cab comes from Scooteney Flats Vineyard on Red Mountain in Washington. “It’s always great to get critical acclaim, but the best acclaim is the customer coming in and saying, ‘I really love the experience and I’d love to come back,’ ” he said. In the past, the Sullivans have taken some arrows from other Idaho winemakers for using fruit from beyond the state. However, the killing freeze of November 2014 that clipped vine production in 2015 led a number of Idaho wineries to follow Sullivan into Washington for grapes. 24

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Telaya Wine Co., owned and operated by Earl and Carrie Sullivan.

“We’ve always had the vision of making the best possible wine that we can make,” he said. “It starts with the best fruit, and we just don’t have enough fruit in Idaho for all of us to make great wine. Other winemakers were here first. They have contracts, and they have taken up a big chunk of the fruit. As things come up in Idaho, we try to get involved and make it happen.”

Katherine Jones Idaho Statesman

Any winemaker in Washington, much less Idaho, would relish the chance to work with vineyards Sullivan has gotten into — sites such as Boushey, Champoux,

··· Telaya Wine Co.

240 E. 32nd St., Garden City, Idaho 83714 telayawine.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y of the year AWARDS Quintessence on Red Mountain and Damon LaLonde-managed French Creek and Scooteney Flats. “Dick Boushey, I love that guy to death, and he and his wife, Luanne, just bend over backward for us,” Sullivan said. “And Damon farms great fruit, too.” Eight years ago, Telaya began with 50 cases from the 2008 vintage and a word the Sullivans created to reference two places with special meanings — the Tetons and playa – Spanish for “beach.” The Sullivans now own a 5,000-case vinification facility with working space for close friend/renter Leslie Preston’s Coiled Wines. The facility includes a catering kitchen, conference room and patio with a firepit that’s a stone’s throw from the Boise River and Greenbelt bike path. Across the parking lot is the Riverside Hotel, a 330-room property being renovated by local ownership. “It’s a great avenue for people to become familiar with Idaho wine as they travel here and walk right next door to our winery,” Sullivan said.

The financial risk is substantial for the Sullivans. Earl worked on the family farm in Kentucky and met Carrie at college on his way to a career in the pharmaceutical industry and hers as a veterinary surgeon. Fifteen years ago, they moved to Boise and put down roots. As the wine industry developed around the state capital, thanks in large part to Cinder’s Melanie Krause, the Sullivans saw potential. After several years of renting winery space from Cinder, they spotted an opportunity to create a tasting room nearby but unlike anything in the Pacific Northwest. “If we can get people walking or riding down the Greenbelt to take notice, hopefully they’ll say, ‘OK, I’m going to give Idaho wine a shot,’ ” Earl said. “We need to educate people on Idaho wine, on Telaya wine and on hospitality.” A year from now, guests will get to enjoy a Rhône-inspired rosé made by Carrie, the first for Telaya. “I am very proud of Earl and Carrie,” said Moya Dolsby, executive director for the

Idaho Wine Commission. “Their passion and drive is infectious. It has allowed them to build a beautiful winery, have hundreds of wine club members and sell out of their wine. Idaho is lucky to have them.” And yet, the ultimate goal for the Sullivans is to see Telaya grow into a family business with sons Jack and Ty. “Part of the vision we had was them coming down to the winery and spending time here with us doing what we love to do,” Earl said. “The other night, Ty spent three hours on the forklift with me. It was part of a long day working, but I got to spend some time with my boys, which is great.” ERIC DEGERMAN is CEO and president of Great Northwest Wine.

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VIZCAYA WINERY BY ERIC DEGERMAN

UNA, Idaho — Tempranillo has emerged as a hot grape around the Pacific Northwest, and Vizcaya Winery is keeping the trend rolling in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. Last year, Larry and Kay Hansen used fruit from their Windy Ridge Vineyard to win a double gold medal at the Idaho Wine Competition with their 2011 Tempranillo, which means the judges’ vote was not a consensus but unanimous. In 2014, the Hansens’ winemaker, Mike Crowley, earned a double gold for Tempranillo at the state competition under his Syringa brand. Same vineyard. Same vintage. Different judges. Same result. Indeed, the early-ripening grape native to the Rioja region of Spain is a good fit in the Snake River Valley of Idaho. And the wines pair naturally with cuisine found in Basque households throughout Boise, one of the culture’s largest communities outside of the Iberian Peninsula. “The spark for having a winery of our own was the results other winemakers achieved with our fruit,” Larry said. “We’re pretty pleased with how our vineyards are doing, but even more so with the wines.” That realized potential defines Vizcaya as the 2016 Idaho Winery to Watch. Considering their backgrounds, it’s natural that the Hansens researched their entry into the Idaho wine industry. Interest in their signature grape, however, began rather simply. “We drank a lot of Spanish Tempranillo,” Kay said. “This was back in early 2000s when it was pretty much an unknown out here.” Although inexperienced when it came to viticulture, the Hansens grew up with backgrounds that translate. And their combined success in business made Windy Ridge Vine26

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Kay and Larry Hansen, owners of Vizcaya Winery, hold a bottle of their 2014 silver medal Albariño and a 2011 double gold medal, best of class Tempernillo wine in their tasting room at 8987 S. Greenhurst Road in Kuna, Idaho. Darin Oswald doswald@idahostatesman.com

yard and now Vizcaya Estate Vineyard possible. Kay grew up on a family farm in Meridian, class of ’76, well before it morphed into the sprawling bedroom community of Boise. She worked in her parents’ restaurant and bar, graduated from Boise State, then spent 34 years at Hewlett-Packard. She retired as a financial analyst, and Vizcaya benefits from

her full-time focus. Larry, 56, born and raised in Spokane, spent five years on a wheat ranch before joining H-P out of college. He met Kay on the job and worked in research/development, specializing in magnetic recording, before accepting an H-P buyout in 2012. Before long, he rejoined the tech industry, now with Micron. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y to watch AWARDS “I’ve always been drawn to a country lifestyle even though I’ve spent 30-plus years in a cubicle,” he chuckled. In 2001, the Hansens bought 6 acres in Meridian specifically to plant a vineyard. After the purchase, they reached out to Larry’s nephew, Damon LaLonde, now one of the top viticulturalists in Washington’s Columbia Valley. He helped them with test plots and suggested Tempranillo, so in 2004 they planted clones 1 and 2 on Windy Ridge. Two years later, they added three more clones of Tempranillo as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Pinot Gris. They held back some fruit from wineries in 2011 and worked with Crowley on the first Vizcaya wines. In anticipation of opening a winery and tasting room, the Hansens purchased 9 acres in a neighboring county because of zoning restrictions. The new site, home to Vizcaya Estate Vineyard, also allowed the Hansens to expand upon the Spanish concept in 2014 by planting Albariño and Cabernet Sauvignon. That vintage, they purchased Albariño from Naches Heights Vineyard in Washington, and Crowley turned that juice into a silver medal at last year’s Idaho Wine Competition. They expect to plant Malbec, Pinot Gris and a few Port varieties, including more Tempranillo, at the Vizcaya site. Unfortunately, the Hansens’ plantings have suffered freeze events along with many of the Snake River Valley vineyards in recent years. They described the 2015 vintage in particular as “devastating.” “That’s part of life here in Idaho,” Larry said. “Growing grapes in Idaho is not like growing grapes in Washington or California. If you are a vineyard owner here, you have to be able to roll with the punches.” Crowley said, “The fruit — when they are able to grow it — is great. They have one of the better-managed vineyards in the state, even though it’s small.” Crop losses and the lack of a retail presence prevented the Hansens from ramping up production. This year, Vizcaya will release less than 300 cases of wine — including 100 cases of 2012 Estate Tempranillo.

Last October, however, Vizcaya opened its tasting room. The Hansens also plan to create a 3,000-square-foot production facility nearby, which would make the winemaking easier for Crowley. “They are pretty good people to work with,” Crowley said. “They definitely are passionate and are really focused on trying to

produce the best fruit they can, given the conditions. It’s an amazing tasting room, too. It’s not a big one, but it’s one of the nicest in Idaho.” ERIC DEGERMAN is CEO and president of Great Northwest Wine.

Vizcaya Winery, our wines are a labor of love Thank you to Wine Press Northwest for choosing us as Idaho Winery to Watch Sat - Sun 12-5 and by appointment 208-870-8354 www.VizcayaWinery.com 8987 S Greenhurst Rd, Kuna ID

Thanks to all of our customers and fellow Idaho Wineries for your support!

··· Vizcaya Winery

8987 S. Greenhurst Road Kuna, Idaho 83634 vizcayawinery.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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MT. HOOD WINERY BY ERIC DEGERMAN

OOD RIVER, Ore. — Steve Bickford and his family grew up in the Hood River Valley with generations of success with tree fruit, but they’ve been a rather quick study when it comes to wine. And it wasn’t even his idea to plant a vineyard back in 2000. “I just took a gamble on some grapes,” Bickford said. “A friend spurred me into it, telling me there was nursery that had some grape vine cuttings. I asked how many, and he said, ‘4,000.’ I guess it was ‘go big or go home.’ ” He began by replacing Newtown Pippin apples with 5 acres of Pinot Noir and 1 acre of Pinot Gris. Those efforts by Bickford, his brother Don and sister-in-law Libby paved the path to Wine Press Northwest naming Mt. Hood Winery as the 2016 Oregon Winery of the Year. Their résumé for 2015, authored by winemaker Rich Cushman, led with a double platinum for its 2014 Dry Riesling — the highest-ranking Riesling at last fall’s Wine Press Northwest Platinum Judging. That wine earned its way into the Platinum with a double gold at the Great Northwest Wine Competition, one of six gold medals won by Mt. Hood at the spring event, which also awarded the 2012 Glacier Late Harvest Riesling as best dessert wine and 2012 Barbera and 2014 Gewürztraminer with best-of-class awards. More validation came this winter when the Mt. Hood 2013 Merlot finished second overall in the Wine Press Northwest peer-judging of 100 Northwest examples of Merlot. “I don’t come in and just get work orders,” Cushman said. “It feels like a family here. We 28

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Steve Bickford (far left) stands next to his daughter, Merridy Stehlik, with his brother Don Bickford and sister in-law Libby Bickford in their tasting room. Not pictured are Steve’s daughters Amy Burtner and Emily Struthers.

all have lunch together every Friday and drink other people’s wines. But I’ve also walked through those vineyards so many times since 2007, and the Bickfords are really good farmers. They are dedicated.” It’s been a steady climb for Mt. Hood Winery. Those initial plantings reached their third leaf in 2002, and the grapes weren’t going to turn themselves into wine. “So I went to a trade show in Portland and after three hours — and $20,000 poorer — we had enough stuff to make wine,” Bickford chuckled. “I was told that it needed to be not only good enough to drink but good enough that I could sell.”

Photo by Jackie Sharp Contributing Photographer

And he needed to come up with a name for the winery. Fortunately, the Mt. Hood Winery brand created during the 1960s in the valley by the late Lester Martin became available after an ownership change. It’s a small town, too. Bickford went to Wy’East High School with Martin’s daughter, Vicky. Bickford and Cushman were part of the building’s final graduating class before students were blended into Hood River Valley High. “Steve was the cool kid from the country,” Cushman said. “I was the city kid who was into science and the last player off the bench.” Cushman’s winemaking path included stops in Germany and the University of CaliforniaW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y of the year AWARDS Davis before working throughout Oregon for 25 years. He moved back home to Hood River and began making wine for a couple of clients. One brand rented space from the Bickfords, who’d recently sold their successful fruit-packing operation and transitioned into a 10,000-square-foot winery facility. “We got bigger, and Rich ends up staying here,” Bickford said. Cushman’s arrival in 2007 is not a coincidence with the rise of Mt. Hood Winery. Production of the brand has reached 3,000 cases, with Cushman’s own Viento label at about 2,000 cases. There also are a handful of custom-crush clients, and they partner on their growing Hood River Ciderworks. Estate plantings make up 70 percent of Mt. Hood’s bottlings. “Rich is in charge,” Bickford said. “I help a lot at crush and with bottling - we own our own bottling line - and we all just share the workload in the vineyard, which is 25 acres. We also have a full-time, year-round crew that enjoys the change of scenery from the ladders and pruning trees to no ladders and pruning grape vines.” Orchards continue to dominate the Bickford family’s 160 acres, but they sacrificed a number of 80-year-old pear trees in 2008 to make room for their new tasting room and their 30-foot-long antique wine bar. On some weekends in spring, summer and fall, longtime general manager Linda Barber could use a longer bar. “We were pretty early on the scene in the Gorge,” Bickford said. “There were a handful of wineries in the region then — Maryhill, Cascade Cliffs, Hood River Vineyards and Flerchinger (now Cathedral Ridge).” Bickford, a mechanical engineer from Oregon State University, sits on the board of directors for the Columbia Gorge Winegrowers Association. The group counts more than 30 wineries along both sides of the river with 80 vineyards covering a total of 1,250 acres. And what about that friend who inspired the initial planting of 4,000 cuttings in 2000?

Dick Reed, the Chicago stock trader who went on to launch nearby Wy’East Vineyards. They still travel together for business and fun. “Yeah, I’ve mostly thanked him,” Bickford chuckled. “He got me into the wine business, and I got him into the volunteer fire department with me.”

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

Specializing in estate grown Pinot Noir, PinotGris, Riesling and Chardonnay

Spring blossoms,

vineyards, mountains, wine tasting

NORTHWEST

Oregon Winery of the Year 2016

open daily | 11am to 5pm 541.386.8333 2882 Van Horn Dr. Hood River info@mthoodwinery.com // mthoodwinery.com

“One of WASHINGTON’S brightest and rising young wineries is combining superb quality with great values. Regardless of the wine you seek, it’s likely to be found in the Jones of Washington lineup-and at a nice price. I will taste Jones of Washington wines multiple times throughout the year, and they typically stand out for their high quality”

Andy Perdue - Seattle Times

···

Mt. Hood Winery

2882 Van Horn Drive Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-8333 mthoodwinery.com

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Pybus Public Market Tasting Room 7 N. Worthen St. Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-888-0809

Quincy Tasting Room 2101 F Street SW Quincy, WA 98848 509-787-8108

jonesofwashington.com

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AWARDS

winer y to watch

KNUDSEN VINEYARDS BY ERIC DEGERMAN

UNDEE, Ore. - The legacies of Cal and Julia Lee Knudsen continue to thrive in the historic vineyard they left behind in Oregon’s Dundee Hills. At this point, most wine tourists know of Knudsen Vineyard, one of Oregon’s most important plantings, merely as those they drive past on the gravel road to the Erath Winery tasting room. C. Calvert Knudsen, who died in 2009, laid the foundation for two of the Pacific Northwest’s most important wineries — Erath and then Argyle. Now, Knudsen’s four children are committed to making the vineyard its own successful brand. The rich story, combined with the quality of the winemaking and fruit, led to naming Knudsen Vineyards as Wine Press Northwest’s 2016 Oregon Winery to Watch. “We all care deeply about our land and the family’s pioneering heritage in the Oregon wine industry, and our return to winemaking is natural,” said Page Knudsen Cowles, who spearheads the effort with her three brothers. “We can make great wines from Knudsen Vineyard fruit, work together and honor our parents.” When their father, a Weyerhaeuser executive from Seattle, established the vineyard with a 30-acre block in 1972, Knudsen Vineyard was by far the largest in the Willamette Valley. Three years later, he grew it to 60 acres, making it the largest in the state. These days, its upper portions inspired the backdrop for the Oregon Wine Country license plate. Soon after planting, Knudsen (pronounced Kuh-NUDE-sen) joined forces with winemaker Dick Erath to form Knudsen-Erath Winery. Their partnership ended amicably in 30

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Knudsen Vineyards managing partners David Knudsen, Page Knudsen Cowles (back row), Colin Knudsen (front, left) and Cal Knudsen. Photo courtesy of Knudsen Vineyards

1987 — soon after Texas winemaker Rollin Soles and Australian vintner Brian Croser landed in Oregon to make Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling wine. “Producing sparkling wine was a big dream of my father,” Knudsen Cowles said. “They had him at ‘Hello.’ We pivoted all of our grape production to Argyle.” Research led by Oregon industry leader David Adelsheim prompted perhaps an even more important project at Knudsen, the transition of its Chardonnay to phylloxeraresistant Chardonnay clones from the Dijon region of France starting in 1990. “There isn’t all that much Chardonnay planted in the Willamette Valley, and Rollin told me we have the oldest Dijon-clone Chardonnay planted in the New World — not just North America,” Knudsen Cowles said. That work inspired a pair of vineyard-

designated sparkling wines by Argyle, including the Julia Lee’s Block Blanc de Blancs. Combined, the two bubblies account for nearly 2,000 cases with “Knudsen Vineyard” on the label. “Those have helped our brand before we even had a wine in the new millennium,” Knudsen Cowles said. Knudsen Cowles, 60, and her brothers are spread throughout the country. Colin, 59, is an investment banker in New York City. At 56, David is the youngest and lives in Texas. He’s also president of Ostrom’s Mushroom Farm in Olympia, Wash. Cal Jr., the oldest at 62, resides in Woodinville. They make a point of meeting in Dundee to discuss the business of the winery, and they’ve been fortunate to have Soles make their first wines and then have his longtime protégé — Nate Klostermann — take over the Knudsen VineW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y to watch AWARDS yards production. The children have grown the brand responsibly and with impeccable timing, starting with 100 cases of Pinot Noir from the stellar 2012 vintage, which sold out in six weeks. They added 100 cases of Chardonnay and doubled production of Pinot Noir the following year. In 2014, however, the brand began to enter the bloodstream of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay consumers. Klostermann crafted nearly 600 cases of Pinot Noir and half that of Chardonnay. Last year, combined production eclipsed 1,000 cases. This fall, they plan for 800 cases of Pinot Noir and 325 cases of Chardonnay. It’s not much of a sacrifice for Argyle to pull off more for the second generation. Knudsen

··· Knudsen Vineyards

16550 NE Knudsen Lane Dundee, OR, 97115 tastings by arrangement, 503-580-1596 knudsenvineyards.com

Vineyard stands at 130 acres, and Klostermann crushed 450 tons of fruit from those vines in 2015 - the equivalent of 30,000 cases of wine. “We’re still a small producer, and we love building the mailing list and getting to know our customers,” said Knudsen Cowles, who serves as managing partner. “At the same time, we need to expand the pie to offer more distribution and participate in more events.” Erath sold his brand to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in 2006, and that Erath tasting room — in the middle of Knudsen Vineyard — sits on Knudsen property. Ste. Michelle’s lease expires in 2018. “While we do intend to create a tasting room at some point, it is very early on in our planning,” she said. So far, Knudsen Cowles, a Seattle native and Yale grad who earned her MBA at Harvard, is leading the sales and promotion of the family juice. She’s opening up markets, including her adopted home state of Minnesota. One of her favorite events was a recent pouring for 60 friends during a formal wine-

maker dinner at the St. Paul Curling Club — the largest in the country at 1,200 members. “It’s been lovely to watch my husband get bitten by the bug,” she said. “Now he’s coming out with me for events such as the International Pinot Noir Celebration and Salud.” The winery project also has helped keep Cal and Julie Lee’s children connected. “We feel responsible in a happy way, not a burdensome way,” Knudsen Cowles said. “It’s been seven years since my father died, and time does heal. He was ill for a very short period, and we had some lovely time with him at the vineyard toward the end. “And our mother died unexpectedly, but peacefully, at the vineyard cabin 25 years ago,” she continued. “So it remains a lovely place where our family has lived and where we have died and where we come from.” ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

Located in the heart of the renowned Dundee Hills AVA, our vineyard is one of the oldest in Oregon and remains Knudsen family owned. Our acclaimed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines highlight the distinctive and exceptional quality fruit from Knudsen Vineyard. We are truly honored and appreciate being recognized as the 2016 WinePress Northwest Oregon Winery to Watch. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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AWARDS

winer y of the year

MERCER WINE ESTATES BY ANDY PERDUE

ROSSER, Wash. — In the past four years, Mercer Wine Estates has tripled its production to more than 60,000 cases of wine, all while raising quality to new levels. That would seem to be quite a trick, but not when you combine 130 years of family agricultural history with a Ste. Michelle-trained winemaker. Just a decade ago, the Mercer and Hogue families launched Mercer Wine Estates in this Yakima Valley town, but the story began much earlier. The Mercers arrived in WashMercer Wine Estates winemaker Jessica Munnell, general manager ington's Horse Heaven Will Mercer (center) and owner Rob Mercer in front of their Prosser Hills in 1886 and started tasting room sheep and cattle ranching operations. In 1972, Don Mercer planted the year later, Mike Hogue retired and sold his first wine grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills share of the winery to the Mercers, whose — known then as Mercer Ranch and now the dynamic leader is Rob Mercer. acclaimed Champoux Vineyards. Jessica Munnell arrived in April 2012 to Since then, the Mercers have become one take over as head winemaker. She grew up of the top wine grape growers in the state, down the road in Richland, then went to amassing more than 2,000 acres of vineyards, Washington State University to earn her with the majority of their fruit sold to Ste. bachelor's and master’s degrees. After graduaMichelle Wine Estates. tion, she landed at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, first as a viticulturist, then as an enolIn 2005, the family used a tiny amount of ogist at Snoqualmie Vineyards and later as Cabernet Sauvignon to begin Mercer Wine assistant winemaker at Chateau Ste. MiEstates. The facility was built in 2007, and the winery opened for business in 2008. In chelle's red winemaking facility. 2011, longtime Yakima Valley winemaker When Munnell arrived, Mercer was proDavid Forsyth announced his departure. A ducing 22,000 cases and sales were tepid, even 32

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Photo by Jackie Sharpe Contributing photographer

though the wines were superb. A few months later, Rob Mercer's brother Will joined the operation. He had spent the prior 15 years in retail sales with carrot giant Bolthouse Farms. As Munnell increased production, Will Mercer began to build a distribution system, which now includes 48 states. “That’s a big jump from where we were just five years ago,” Rob Mercer said. “We were in 23 states then.”

··· Mercer Wine Estates 3100 Lee Road, Prosser 509-786-2097 www.mercerwine.com

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winer y of the year AWARDS Mercer is pleased with its production levels but also isn't afraid to expand. It has the ability to produce nearly 100,000 cases in its current facility. “I don’t have a number in mind,” Rob Mercer said. “We have the capacity to grow if there’s demand and interest out there. Having strong family-owned wineries is great. It’s what the wine industry is all about.” Mercer bottles wines at three tiers: Mercer Canyons is the most affordable label, while Mercer Estates is in the midrange and the reserves are made in small, high-end lots. In each of the past three years, a Mercer wine has landed in The Seattle Times top 50, with Munnell’s 2012 Dead Canyon Vineyard Syrah reaching No. 17 last fall. Two wines made it in Great Northwest Winemaker Jessica Munnell has Wine’s top 100 list for 2015. Her 2012 Sharp Sisters racked up numerous awards red blend and 2014 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Rosé each during her four years at Mercer. merited a Platinum in the 2015 Wine Press Northwest Photo by Jackie Sharpe Platinum Judging. The Meritage-style 2012 Reserve Contributing Photographer Cavalie was chosen best red blend at Houston’s Rodeo Uncorked international wine competition. Munnell is quick to credit the outstanding grapes she receives. “I’m a little bit like a kid in a candy store,” she said. “There are a lot of tools to pick from because we have a lot of great fruit.” She is particularly excited about Malbec and believes Mercer can make its mark with the delicious red Bordeaux grape. “I think it’s a variety that consumers are excited about,” she said. “There’s just not that much widely planted in Washington. A lot of growers are looking at planting it right now.” Rob Mercer anticipated that and has put in a lot of effort to position the winery to receive more Malbec. “We have three separate locations on our property that we're growing Malbec,” he said. “That’s the direction we're headed. It has a distinctive quality, a character that’s recognizable from the Horse Heaven Hills. We’re working on more clones and trying to refine the Malbec program.” Munnell looks forward to making more Malbec in the years to come. “Everybody thinks they’re about to have a massive glass of red wine, and then unlike Cabernet, it tends to be balanced,” she said. “It is more elegant.” ANDY PERDUE is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

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winer y to watch

FINN HILL BY ANDY PERDUE

Finn Hill owner and winemaker Rob Entrekin

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Photo by Richard Duval

OODINVILLE, Wash. — While growing up in the rural Midwest, Rob Entrekin was not inspired to get into winemaking. “It was mostly soybeans, cornfields and the occasional pig farm,” he said. But when he moved to Washington to work as a biomedical engineer, he discovered the Columbia Valley. “It had the same rural agricultural feel,” he said. And he found that endearing. But there was one big difference between Eastern Washington and the farms around Wanamaker, Ind.: vineyards. By the early 2000s, Entrekin and his wife, Karen Sjöström, were living in an area of Kirkland known as Finn Hill (a neighborhood whose first settlers were from Finland). Not far away in Woodinville, winery tasting rooms were starting to multiply, and the couple took advantage of the opportunity to visit wineries to taste and learn about wine. For Entrekin, it didn’t take long for his engineering senses to kick in. “I was struck by the fact that wineries were getting the same fruit from the same areas, but the wines tasted different,” he said. “I wanted to learn more about that.” So in 2007, he enrolled in Washington State University's viticulture and enology program, and he began to learn how to make wine. A year later, he launched Finn Hill Winery, producing 150 cases in his garage. In the process, he began to quench his curiosity about how the same grape from the same place can result in completely different wines. “It turns out there are a million things that W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y to watch AWARDS can be different in a wine!” he said with a laugh. “I didn’t really start understanding those pieces of the answer until I started volunteering at other wineries in the area and starting my own winery.” For his first couple of vintages, Entrekin took whatever grapes he could find, but as his winemaking prowess grew, so too did the quality of the fruit he was able to acquire. Today, he works with top vineyards, including Rosebud on the warm Wahluke Slope. “Rosebud is my favorite,” he said. “I’m now getting an old block of Cab that was planted in 1981.” And the quality shows in his wines. A recent tasting through his 2012 and 2013 releases reveal superb Merlots, Cabs, Cab Francs, Sauvignon Blancs and Semillons. “That really comes from my own tasting preferences,” he said. “I have a preference for Bordeaux red wines. That’s what is interesting to me, so that’s what I decided to focus on.” By the end of the 2011 harvest, Entrekin had gained a bit of a following and was starting to grow, but he had run out of space. “I had a 6-ton garage,” he said. “I couldn’t process more than that.” So he looked to the warehouse district on the north end of Woodinville and found a space that allowed him to expand to 850 cases with a goal of one day reaching about 1,500. That also gives him room to experiment. Entrekin, 64, has gained a lot of experience with Bordeaux varieties and Syrah, for example, but he would like to work with other varieties. “I will try something a little different to get the experience,” he said. “I’m not a young guy, but I am a young winemaker.” In 2013, he made a Petit Verdot, and in 2011 and again in 2015, he made a Malbec. “I haven’t really gotten into the Rhône varieties much, but I'm really interested in Grenache, so there might be a GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend) in my future.” His day job at Phillips Health Care, where he does research and development in ultrasound technology, allows him to travel to Europe on business, and he always uses those

opportunities for a little wine R&D. This winter, he spent 10 days in France, where he took the time to try some local wines. “That was good inspiration,” he said. Because he's pretty much a one-person operation (his son Alex runs the tasting room), he struggles to fit in sales and marketing with the winemaking and his day job. “I’m employed full time, so staying on top of paperwork, bottling, etc., is plenty,” he

said. “If I were to retire, I could promote my brand and establish myself in wine shops and restaurants.” That could be a ways out, however. “I wouldn’t mind retiring in the next couple of years, but I have a winery to support.” ANDY PERDUE is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine (greatnorthwestwine.com) and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

··· Finn Hill Winery

18800 142nd Ave. N.E. No. 5A, Woodinville 206-409-4378 www.finnhillwinery.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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FEATURE

stoller

Stoller Family Estate has special relationship with the land BY VIKI EIERDAM

AYTON, ORE - Great wine is the result of reverence for the harmonious balance in the process. It starts with an understanding of the soil, the ability to work within the parameters of the climate and accept what one cannot change, the wisdom to plant what the environment will willingly grow and the humility to listen to how much or how little the grapes will allow manipulation to bring forth the truest expression of each varietal. It is this consciousness that the team of Stoller Family Estate brings to their land and every vintage produced from it. No surprise then that winemaker Melissa Burr had a strong interest in naturopathic medicine before the wine bug set her on a path that would lead to becoming Stoller’s head winemaker in 2003. Referencing how her original direction intersects with Stoller, Burr said, “I think that the similar respect for people and for the land are complementary for us and it is reflected into the culture and vision of the Stoller winery.” She takes full advantage of the celebrated Jory soil found in the Dundee Hills AVA where Stoller is located. This red, volcanic, well-draining soil tends to run from four to six feet deep, giving grape vines plenty of room to stretch their roots and feed off the nutrient-rich decay that swept down from western Montana thousands of years ago to rest in the higher elevations of the Willamette Valley. For fickle yet food-friendly Pinot Noir, Jory soil is ideal. Fruit shows the traditional cherry and red berry characteristics along with fabulous aromatics. Burr’s approach is to craft elegant, yet powerful and ageable wines throughout the spectrum of varietals grown. Planted on approximately 190 acres are seven varieties of grapes to be exact; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Tempranillo, Syrah and Pinot Blanc. It is from this collage that Stoller harvests to make up their 100 percent estate grown production. Demonstrating his life-long connection to the Stoller property, owner Bill Stoller planted 10 acres in chardonnay—along with Pinot Noir—back in 1995. When the world was still reeling from the overly oaked and buttery California chardonnays, that strapped this rather neutral and non-offensive wine with an off-putting reputation, some labeled it risky.

Melissa Burr, Winemaker, Stoller Family Estate, Dundee Hllls, Willamette Valley, Oregon Photo by Andrea Johnson Courtesy Stoller Family Estate

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stoller FEATURE A combination of new and neutral French oak is used to age their Pinot Noir Reserve at Stoller Family Estate, where it sits for a minimum of 10 months prior to bottling.

Photo courtesy of Dan Eierdam

“Original Chardonnay clones planted in Oregon were really better suited for warmer climates. I’ve always believed in our site's potential for growing the varietal well and with the introduction of Dijon clones to Oregon, they were much more compatible to our cooler climate. Chardonnay was then, and is also today, the top-selling wine in the United States and, in my opinion, has just as strong of a place in Oregon as Pinot Noir,” Bill said. More evidence of Bill’s pioneering spirit can be seen throughout the peaceful estate. Just look up. Pest control is approached cohesively instead of antagonistically. Hundreds of boxes and perches—all built with reclaimed wood—are placed throughout the vineyard to attract birds and owls who eat

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invasive insects instead of discouraging birds with cannon sounds and spraying their vines with pesticides. This, in addition to their LEED Gold, Low Input Viticulture (LIVE) and Salmon Safe certifications, illustrates Stoller’s commitment to honor and constantly strive toward better balance with the land that bears forth award-winning fruit. Four tiers represent the wines of Stoller; Dundee Hills, Reserve, Single Acre and Legacy. Moving through the tiers, complexity increases but there is a lively brightness in the 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir which is sourced from different sections all over the hillside. In a year when the Willamette Valley was besieged with eight and a half inches of rain in two days around harvest time (remnants of a Japanese monsoon), Burr said 2013

is actually aging quite nicely. The step from Dundee Hills to Reserve is marked by sourcing grapes from older vines and, in the case of their 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir, barrel aging in French oak for 10 months. This adds spice notes and deepens the floral component. Single-acre offerings showcase smaller plantings such as Riesling, Tempranillo and Syrah which have been located ideally in the lower elevation of the vineyard to help the warmer climate varietals reach their full potential. The pièce de résistance would then be their Legacy series. “The Legacy wines are the smallest of our blends and they are focused and styled to accentuate the vineyard and vintage. Most of them are built around particular sections of the vineyard

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FEATURE

stoller

that consistently exemplify complexity and beauty year after year in the wines that come from them. People can expect uniqueness and complexity in these wines,” Burr explained. The 2012 Nancy’s Pinot Noir, for example, is named after Bill’s sister and the use of whole cluster fermentation brings elevated spiciness from the stems to the flavor profile. The wines of Stoller Family Estate are evidence of what happens when man patiently observes the patterns of an environment and moves aside to act as assistant to what the earth can bring forth. Burr is a willing participant in the journey.

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“I hope to see Stoller, as well as the Oregon wine industry, continue to grow into the world class artisan wine region it is destined to be on a global scale and look forward to being able to be a part of the discovery process in understanding the vineyard and wines here,” Burr said. VIKI EIDERMAN is a freelance writer based in Vancouver, Wash. and writes a food and wine blog “Corks and Forks” for the Vancouver Columbian.

Unique lodging available on estate grounds Home to literally hundreds of wineries, the Willamette Valley is the perfect destination for frequent visits. For out-of-towners, what better place to spend a couple nights than on the grounds of a hospitality-driven, sustainable winery such as Stoller Family Estate. Three separate lodging options are available to choose from. The Cottage is closest to the winery but still affords plenty of privacy and the inviting patio, which looks out on an expanse of south-facing slopes, affords a contemplative view. Don’t let the word ‘cottage’ fool you. Outfitted with three queen bedrooms, two bathrooms, a comfortable living room, separate dining area, full kitchen and a study, it can accommodate six. The Estate House also boasts three queen bedrooms and two bathrooms—one en suite— with a larger living room, kitchen and dining room table that seats six. Cozy up to the fireplace, enjoy a game of chess, take in vineyard views from the living room or watch a movie on the flat screen TV and DVD player. Guests looking for ultimate privacy will appreciate the Wine Farm House, located one mile from the winery and tasting room. The master suite features a soaking tub in the luxurious en suite bath. Two queen bedrooms, a full-sized bedroom and bedroom with twin beds guarantee plenty of sleeping options for a large group. All houses provide kitchens stocked with basic service ware, Keurig coffeemakers and an assortment of teas. A complimentary bottle of reserve Pinot Noir along with artisan crackers, cheese and dark chocolate are nice touches found in each guest house and complimentary wine tasting is included, as well. For more information, go to www.stollerfamilyestate.com.

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boutique wineries

Northwest Washington boutique wineries carve out niche in expanding industry BY DAN RADIL

“B

outique winery” is a phrase that’s often used – some would say overused – in today’s wine scene. Part of the problem with this now borderline cliché descriptor lies in the lack of a pure definition of what constitutes a boutique winery. While wineries and wine enthusiasts are quick to draw on a pool of adjectives such as “artisanal,” “handcrafted,” and “localized,” it’s “small-production” that’s probably the most agreed-upon description of a boutique winery … and even that term is sometimes up for discussion. Annual production of around 1,000 cases or fewer seems to be the generally accepted standard for a winery to meet the boutique criteria; although no one is likely to cry foul if it exceeds that amount by a few hundred cases or so and still lays claim to boutique status. Numbers and classifications aside, these wineries share in many of the same trials and rewards as anyone trying to operate a small business. And given the challenges of marketability, distribution and limited production, one thing is clear: a boutique winery must have a strong, loyal, and generally close-to-home customer base cultivated by superior service and quality wines in order to succeed. Here’s a look at three Northwest Washington wineries that fit the boutique category and their strategies for maintaining a niche in the state’s increasingly competitive wine industry.

TOP-OF-THE-SCALE BOUTIQUE Originally from Siberia, Margarita Vartanyan of Vartanyan Estate Winery was visiting 40

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The line-up of current releases at Vartanyan Estate Winery Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

friends in western Canada when she took a drive through nearby Bellingham and announced, “That’s the place I want to live.” She moved to the area in 2002 and, armed with a background of centuries-old winemaking practices from her family, began producing her own Washington wines in 2004. “The first years were difficult, like any other business,” she recalls. When the tasting room opened in 2008, “it was built on my regular customers,” who, she notes, still comprise a large portion of her business today. During the summer months, she also sees a significant number of visitors from the Seat-

tle area, who make the trek north in search of good wines in the rural environs of Whatcom County.

‘Because I’m small, I can keep an eye on everything, and I know every barrel. The winemaking becomes more personal.’ Margarita Vartanyan W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

boutique wineries FEATURE purchased from Quilceda Creek Vintners. Red wines include the well-priced, 2014 Spartan (available in May, 2016), an easy-todrink Merlot with a mouthful of dark berries and refreshing splash of acidity; and an outstanding 2013 Cabernet Franc, with complex layers of plum, spice, dried herbs and plenty of toasted oak. Also ready for release this coming May will be a 2015 Riesling and a 2015 Cabernet Franc Rosé. Annual production runs about 750 cases, but the Kramers have plans to parlay this into perhaps as much as 2,500 cases as part of their “retirement jobs.” While this might move them out of the boutique classification, the couple says it won’t change the way the winery operates. “Our idea has always been to try to keep a low profile and let the wine speak for itself,” Ryan says with a confident smile.

ULTRA-BOUTIQUE

Dusty and Ryan Kramer of Camano Island’s Dusty Cellars Winery Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

Vartanyan provides this and more, with a tasting room a short drive north of the Mount Baker Highway and just minutes from downtown Bellingham. The facility is perched atop a hillside with a view of the mountain and plenty of grassy areas for the winery’s outdoor concert series, picnics, and, of course, wine tasting. Current releases include a 2014 Sweet Riesling, with juicy pear and pineapple flavors and bracing acidity that impeccably balances the wine’s sweetness; a 2012 Syrah featuring dark, inky fruits, and a soft finish with a touch of vanilla; and the 2012 Trilogia (Russian for “trilogy”), a blend of equal parts Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Merlot aged in Russian, French and American oak, respectively. Vartanyan produces a minimum of about 1,500 cases a year, putting her at the high end of the boutique scale. The size suits her well and she’s content to keep her production in that general vicinity as long as she can control what goes into the finished product. “Because I’m small, I can keep an eye on everything, and I know every barrel.” With that practice, she says, “the winemaking becomes more personal.”

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MID-RANGE BOUTIQUE Husband and wife Ryan and Dusty Kramer didn’t start taking wines seriously until their late 20s. The winemaking process, Ryan admits, was more of a curiosity than anything. But like many other boutique wineries, the “hobby status” of producing one’s own wines outgrew the garage and required additional space. Dusty Cellars Winery was officially licensed in 2006 and the Kramers’ tasting room, next to their Camano Island home, opened in 2009. Because of the winery’s somewhat isolated site, the couple relies primarily on what Dusty calls, “a very strong local clientele. There’s a great sense of community here.” Ryan adds, “When people get comfortable here, they come back.” Without a distributor, the winery relies on word-of-mouth, tasting room purchases, and self-deliveries that range from nearby Stanwood to roughly Anacortes and south Whidbey Island. Summertime concerts, literally held in the Kramer’s backyard for up to 50 people, are also a big draw. Grapes are sourced primarily from the Rattlesnake Hills and Columbia Valley AVAs and red wines are aged in a 50⁄50 mix of American oak barrels and once-used French barrels

Domestic partners as well as business partners, Lotte Freeman and Donatas Pocus established La Chanterelle Winery after careful planning and the desire to build on Freeman’s winemaking skills she learned from friends in the Bellingham area. Freeman hails from Deming, Pocus from Lithuania, and after completing the arduous

Margarita Vartanyan prepares to serve guests at the winery’s tasting bar. Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

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FEATURE

boutique wineries

Donatas Pocus (far left) and Lotte Freeman (second from right) share a glass of LaChanterelle wine with Bellingham wine enthusiasts Terry and Mary Ellen Carter

task of obtaining the necessary state and local permits, the couple started the winery in the cellar of their Bellingham home in 2012. The immaculate facility serves as crush pad, barrel room, and tasting room and includes a tasting bar that Freeman constructed from wood from a barn near her childhood home. Retro-style furniture arranged nearby also offers tasters a chance to relax in the cellar’s cozy and comfortable setting. One of the winery’s biggest challenges has been marketing their product, but a solid customer base is catching on at local retailers where the wine is carried: Bellingham’s Cordata Community Co-Op, Old World Deli, and Seifert and Jones Wine Merchants. Another good selling point: the quality of the wines themselves. A currently available Wahluke Slope 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon hits all the right notes, with expressive red fruits nicely balanced by sturdy tannins and brisk acidity. And a gorgeous 2013 Syrah – scheduled for release in August and also from Wahluke – is drinking beautifully with dark cherry flavors, vanilla bean accents, and a whisper of smoke on a silky finish.

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La Chanterelle’s tiny annual production of about 120 cases will increase to around 200 cases with the 2015 vintage (scheduled for a 2018 release). About one-third of the vintage was sourced from Yakima Valley’s Boushay Vineyards. “Our inventory is manageable,” Freeman notes, and, while pointing out that they’re still in the early stages, “if we grow more later, that’s fine.” For now, she and Pocus are content to concentrate on the little things a boutique winery does best. “We do everything by hand and pay attention to details that might be missed in a larger winery,” he says. “We really think this makes a big impact on the wine.” DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com .

Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

··· Vartanyan Estate Winery

1628 Huntley Road, Bellingham (360) 756-6770 vewinery.com Friday and Sunday: 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm Saturday: 1:00 pm to 6:00 pm Other times by appointment.

Dusty Cellars Winery

529 Michael Way, Camano Island (360) 387-2171 dustycellarswinery.com Open the first full weekend of each month, noon to 5:00 pm Private tastings also available by appointment.

La Chanterelle Winery

Bellingham lachanterellewine.com Private tastings by appointment only.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

LaChanterelle’s Donatas Pocus

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Established 1975

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MERL OT

Northwest Merlot still shines // BY A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOGRAPHY BY B O B B R A W D Y

n many places in the world, Merlot is considered a boring grape that produces wines that are smooth and interesting but without depth or heft. For the most part, it’s because Merlot vines thrive in rich soils, growing like a weed and producing unimaginative fruit. But in Washington’s arid Columbia Valley, the soils are poor; they’re little more than sand blown in since the end of the last ice age some 15,000 years ago. Here in Washington, Merlot struggles to survive — and that’s the secret to its ability to be great. Because its growth is stunted, the vine focuses on its grapes, and they are able to result in some44

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thing truly magnificent, a wine with depth, complexity and power. This is why we drink Merlot. This is why we love Merlot. Though it’s no longer king amid Northwest red wines, Merlot remains one of the most popular grapes in our corner of the country, thanks to its ability to become a wine that is smooth and big. In Washington, Merlot ruled the 1990s and 2000s, but a rush of interest in Cabernet Sauvignon has left Merlot firmly in the No. 2 spot in red wines. Last fall, Washington wineries crushed more than 35,000 tons of Merlot, wine that

will be bottled by itself as well as blended with other grapes. This is more than triple the amount made as recently as 1997. And while interest in Merlot has leveled in the past three years, the red Bordeaux grape is still a strong producer. We recently gathered 100 examples of Merlot from wineries throughout the Pacific Northwest, particularly from Washington, where so much is made. Our judges tasted through them blind (meaning they didn’t know who made the wine or how much it cost). What they found were many remarkable wines. Our judges included: April Reddout, program director for the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center in Prosser, Wash.; Kristine Bono, tasting room manager for Goose Ridge Estate Winery in Richland, Wash.; Hank Sauer, master facilitator for Great Northwest Wine; Richard Larsen, research winemaker for Washington State University; Ken Robertson, columnist for Wine Press Northwest magazine; Coke Roth, international wine judge and attorney in Kennewick, Wash.; W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

merlot TASTING RESULTS

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Prices are suggested retail.

Mike Rader, who helps run several Northwest wine competitions; and Yashar Shayan, owner of Impulse Wine in Seattle. Here are the results:

Outstanding Five Star Cellars 2012 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

$34

Walla Walla native Matt Huse is the winemaker for this family owned and operated winery at the Walla Walla airport (with a tasting room in Woodinville). In a region where red wines rule, Five Star’s are among the best. This example of Merlot topped our tasting of 100 examples from the Northwest, thanks to big aromas of black cherry, plum, vanilla and oak spice. Round, supple red fruit flavors lead to a long and delicious finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine from start to finish. (670 cases; 14.6% alc.) Mt. Hood Winery $28 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley This winery in Hood River, Ore., is proving to be one of the best wineries — and best-kept secrets — in the Pacific Northwest. It doesn’t seem to matter what wine is made because it’s all superb. This Merlot is another example from our 2016 Oregon Winery of the Year, thanks to succulent aromas of elderberry, huckleberry and a hint of raspberry that shows just the barest hint of oak. On the palate, rich and juicy flavors of huckleberry and blueberry are backed by moderate tan-

nins and a rich boldness in the finish. (100 cases; 14.1% alc.) Barnard Griffin $17 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin moved to Washington in 1977 and quickly established himself as one of the state’s top winemakers. In the ensuing four decades, that has not changed, and he has proved himself to be a master of Merlot. This delicious and affordable example reveals aromas of red currant, cranberry and pomegranate, followed by flavors that are rich, deep, bold and dark. It's all backed by dark chocolate that gives way to a long, tensionfilled finish. (2,855 cases; 13.4% alc.) Maryhill Winery $36 2012 Les Collines Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Since arriving in time for the 2009 harvest, Richard Batchelor has helped turn Maryhill into one of the best in the Northwest. This Merlot is part of his Vineyard Series and uses grapes from the Washington side of the Walla Walla Valley. Aromas of mint, blackberry and S p r i n g 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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blueberry lead to flavors of juicy dark fruit with ample oak, moderate tannin structure and a rich mouth feel that keeps you coming back for one sip after another. (530 cases; 15.3% alc.) Northwest Cellars $32 2012 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills The collaboration of Kirkland, Wash., vintner Bob Delf and winemaker Robert Smasne continues to result in some of the best and most distinctive wines in Washington. For this Merlot, they reached into the warm Horse Heaven Hills for their grapes, and the resulting wine is loaded with aromas of juicy plum, huckleberry jam and rose petal. On the palate, hedonistic flavors of elderberry, blackberry and black currant are backed by chocolaty tannins. (104 cases; 14.1% alc.) Cloudlift Cellars $26 2013 Panorama, Columbia Valley Tom Stangeland quietly crafts small amounts of superb wines at his winery in Seattle's Georgetown neighborhood just a few minutes south of the stadiums. This stunning 46

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Merlot is one of his best so far. Complex aromas of dusty cherry, tarragon and understated spices give way to flavors of pie cherry, blueberry and plum backed by juicy acidity and firm tannin. This is equally approachable and sophisticated. (167 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Every release has proven to be a winner, and this Merlot is no exception. Aromas of dusty blueberry, black cherry and lavender give way to opulent flavors of black licorice, cola, blackberry jam and violet, all backed by juicy acidity and silky tannins. This is the perfect midweek wine with grilled meats or Italian fare. (27,000 cases; 14.5% alc.)

EFESTE $39 2012 Upright, Red Mountain Woodinville's EFESTE has gained nearcult status through the years, thanks to wines like this Merlot, which relies on grapes from Washington's smallest and mightiest growing region. This is a big, bold drink with aromas of cherry, black olive and cocoa powder, followed by powerful flavors of blackberry, red currant and ripe dark raspberry. Thanks to perfectly balanced tannins, the flavors hang around on the palate for an eternity. (425 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Coach House Cellars $25 2011 Merlot, Columbia Valley This young operation in Bellingham, Wash., is coming out of the gates quickly, thanks to this beautiful and complex Merlot. Aromas of juicy red cherry, floral notes, raspberry and minerality lead to flavors rich in red fruit, including cranberry, raspberry and cherry cola. A hint of dark chocolate gives way to a rich, memorable finish. (275 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Seven Falls Cellars $20 2012 Merlot, Wahluke Slope Seven Falls is the newest label in the Ste. Michelle galaxy, and its focus is on grapes from the arid and remote Wahluke Slope.

Lake Chelan Winery $32 2012 Merlot, Lake Chelan Washingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lake Chelan area is so new to winemaking and grape growing that the region still is working on its viticultural idenW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

merlot TASTING RESULTS

M E R L OT by the numbers

Here are a few interesting stats about our Merlot judging. ❧ Number of wines: 100 ❧ Wines rated “Outstanding!”: 21 ❧ Wines rated “Excellent”: 51 ❧ Wines rated “Recommended”: 17 ❧ Average price: $29 ❧ Total cases represented: 454,737 ❧ Average alcohol: 14.3% ❧ AVAs represented: 12. Columbia Valley (39), Walla Walla Valley (18), Yakima Valley (9), Horse Heaven Hills (8), Red Mountain (7), Rattlesnake Hills (4), Rogue Valley (3), Wahluke Slope (3), Washington (3), Lake Chelan (2), Snake River Valley (2), Umpqua Valley (2).

tity. This luscious Merlot helps show that early ripening reds can thrive in this area of North Central Washington. Pleasing aromas of Rainier cherry, dark chocolate and vanilla give way to plush, round flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry. It’s a youthful and sassy wine. (601 cases; 14.3% alc.) Viscon Cellars $24 2012 Heart Box Red, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Ben Viscon has opened his small winery in West Seattle and has a big hit on his hands with this delicious Merlot. Aromas of cherry cola and black cherry lead to approachable flavors of blackberry, spice and a hint of vanilla. It’s beautifully balanced with bright acidity and plush, elegant tannins. (110 cases; 13% alc.) L’Ecole No 41 $28 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley This marks Mike Sharon’s 10th year as winemaker at iconic L’Ecole No. 41 in the Walla Walla Valley, a winery that has been crafting Merlot since its first vintage in 1983. This plush and polished example opens with exotic aromas of spice, sarsaparilla, sweet oak and ripe dark fruit. On the palate, the fruit emphasizes elegance over richness and is backed by supple tannins and ends with a hint of cherry pipe tobacco. (4,840 cases; 14.5% alc.)

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DiStefano Winery $38 2012 Domenica, Columbia Valley Mark Newton opened this small winery in Woodinville in the early 1980s, making it one of the oldest producers in an area now saturated with wineries and tasting rooms. Newton has long had a gifted touch with Merlot, and this example is more evidence of that. Aromas of Rainier cherry, vanilla and raspberry give way to gorgeous flavors of purple plum, dark cherry and cocoa powder. It’s all backed by firm yet pliable tannins, making it a wine to drink now or in a few years. (220 cases; 13.8% alc.) Soos Creek Wine Cellars $25 2012 Palisades, Columbia Valley David Larsen has quietly been making some of Washington’s best wines since the late 1980s at his small winery in the Puget Sound community of Kent. This sophisticated Merlot is a good example of his prowess to make elegant and understated reds. It opens with hints of blueberry, cedar and nutmeg on the nose, followed by flavors of pomegranate, black pepper and red currant. Thanks to bright acidity and firm tannins, this is a wine to enjoy now with rich food or hide in the cellar for a half-decade or more. (200 cases; 14.1% alc.) L’Ecole No 41 $37 2013 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Owner Marty Clubb and his winemaking team brought in grapes from two highly acclaimed estate vineyards: Seven Hills and Ferguson (both on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley). The resulting wine is spectacular, with aromas of dusty blueberry, vanilla cream and exotic spice, followed by elegant and lingering flavors of red currant, black cherry and sweet herbs. Persistent acidity lifts the fruit for a long, memorable farewell. (1,100 cases; 14.5% alc.) Seven of Hearts $29 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley Carlton, Ore., winemaker Byron Dooley focuses primarily on Pinot Noir, but he also crafts a suite of warm-climate wines, including this superb Merlot. It is a rich and complex wine with aromas of minerality, elegant oak and dark, ripe fruit, followed by round flavors of blackberry jam and Bing cherry backed by long, pleasing tannins. (45 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Kontos Cellars $36 2012 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Second-generation Walla Walla winemaker Cameron Kontos has put together a delicious Merlot using grapes from two of the valley’s top vineyards: Pepper Bridge and Les Collines. The resulting wine emphasizes elegance over power, revealing aromas of floral notes, spice and Rainier cherry, followed by approachable flavors of red currant, raspberry and hints of vanilla. It’s all backed by modest tannins and bright acidity. (205 cases; 14.3% alc.) Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards $25 2014 Shameless Hussy Merlot, Lake Chelan Winemaker Judy Phelps used grapes from Chelan Ridge, a high-elevation vineyard on the north shore of Lake Chelan, to create this luscious and sensual red wine. Aromas of black cherry, caramel and chai spices give way to round, smooth, pleasing flavors of plump red cherry and ripe strawberry. Long, mild tannins give this a memorable farewell. (175 cases; 13.8% alc.) Van Camp Cellars $25 2013 Portteus Vineyard Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills This tiny winery in Snohomish, Wash., marks its 10th year in business with the release of this big, juicy red using grapes from one of the pre-eminent vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills. It opens with complex aromas of blackberry, vanilla, black olive and oak, followed by rich, gorgeous flavors of black cherry, watermelon Jolly Rancher candy and dark chocolate. The tannins help lift the fruit to a delicious farewell. (25 cases; 13.7% alc.) Goose Ridge Vineyards $43 2011 Cellar Select Artist Series, Columbia Valley This wine-club-only selection from Goose Ridge Vineyards near Richland, Wash., uses all estate grapes from the hill just south of Red Mountain. This is a complex wine with aromas of spice, black cherry and black olive, followed by juicy blackberry, spicy plum and cocoa. Thanks to the smooth tannins, this is easy to like. (388 cases; 14.8% alc.)

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Amelia Wynn Winery $26 2012 Cépage, Walla Walla Valley Paul Bianchi is crafting some beautiful wines on Bainbridge Island, a short ferry ride west of Seattle. Using grapes from acclaimed Dwelley Vineyard in Walla Walla, Bianchi has put together a superb Merlot that unveils aromas of smoked bacon, blueberry pie and a fair bit of elegant oak. On the palate, it’s loaded with flavors of cherry and plum jam. The tannins have some grip — perfectly balanced with all the fruit. (96 cases; 14.4% alc.)

Excellent Tamarack Cellars $28 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner Ron Coleman has focused on Merlot since the 1990s, and this is a beautiful example, thanks to aromas of cherry, cedar and blackberry. On the palate, this unveils flavors of black cherry, blueberry and a bit of chocolate. Firm tannins give this delicious balance and focus. (900 cases; 14.2% alc.) Cana’s Feast Winery $32 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley This winery based in Carlton, Ore., has long crafted wines from warm-climate grapes, and this delicious Merlot shows how that focus is paying off. This reveals aromas of black cherry and currant, along with lavender and a hint of oak spice. On the palate, elegant flavors of blueberry and cherry are backed with bright acidity. (197 cases; 14.7% alc.) Northstar $41 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley More than 20 years ago, Northstar was created with the goal of making some of the world’s best Merlot. David “Merf ” Merfeld has been at the helm for more than a decade and is crafting luscious reds. This example provides aromas of caramel, dark plum and oak spice, followed by rich flavors of blackberry, blueberry and vanilla. It’s a bright and approachable wine. (12,240 cases; 14.7% alc.) Pedestal $60 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley Michel Rolland, arguably the world’s most famous winemaker, collaborates with Long Shadows of Walla Walla to craft this Merlot, combining Old World tradition and New World ingenuity. The result is a silky, elegant 48

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wine with aromas of rich dark fruit, spice and sarsaparilla that leads to flavors of blackberry, huckleberry and clove. It’s all backed by a long, lingering finish. (2,246 cases; 15.2% alc.) Mercer Estates Winery $20 2013 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Longtime Washington winemaker Jessica Munnell is taking this Yakima Valley winery to new heights, and this elegantly crafted Merlot is a great example. Aromas of smoky charcuterie, blackberry and blueberry give way to flavors of spice, vanilla and ripe dark fruit. It’s all backed by firm, fine-grained tannins and a rounded mouth feel. (872 cases; 14.5% alc.) Maryhill Winery $28 2012 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills Grape grower Joe Hattrup began planting Elephant Mountain near Yakima, Wash., in 1998, and it has quickly established itself as one of the top vineyards in Washington. This superb Merlot opens with aromas of light oak, red currant, sage, and Rainier cherry. On the palate, a silky mouth feel is loaded with flavors of blackberry, pomegranate and Baker’s chocolate. Taut tannins lift the elegant flavors to a memorable finish. (303 cases; 15.1% alc.) Forgeron Cellars $30 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley French-born Marie-Eve Gilla learned her craft in Burgundy, but her focus has been on Bordeaux varieties at this Walla Walla winery. Aromas of black currant and Bing cherry lead to flavors of dark chocolate, ripe plum and blackberry. It’s a big, delicious wine that will pair well with grilled meats or age for a halfdecade or more with relative ease. (626 cases; 14.3% alc.) Westport Winery $27 2014 Mermaid, Columbia Valley WSU-trained winemaker Dana Roberts leads the way for this winery just eight miles from the wild Washington coast. Most of the grapes for this delicious wine came from acclaimed Conner Lee Vineyard in the Columbia Valley. The result is an opulent drink with aromas of sweet herbs, sweet cherry and spice. In the glass, the wine quickly evolves with flavors of black cherry, black raspberry

and black licorice, all backed by silky tannins. (122 cases; 14% alc.) College Cellars $20 2013 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Tim Donahue leads the winemaking instruction at Walla Walla Community College, and he and his students have crafted a delicious example of Merlot. This exudes aromas of blackberry jam on toast, caramel and a hint of oak, followed by flavors of ripe plum, dark cherry and black currant. The tannin and acidity are in perfect harmony with the elegant fruit. (110 cases; 14.5% alc.) Page Cellars $29 2012 Lick My Lips Merlot, Red Mountain James Page is the owner and winemaker behind this Woodinville, Wash., producer, and he has been at it for a long time. This rich Merlot offers up aromas of dusty blueberry, black cherry and lavender, followed by flavors of black licorice, juicy cherry and lingering blueberry notes. It’s all backed by silky and approachable tannins. ( cases; 14% alc.) Ancestry Cellars $35 2012 La Soeur, Columbia Valley Jason and Erin Morin own and operate this small winery in Woodinville, Wash. They relied heavily on grapes from Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills for this delicious Merlot. Aromas of oak spice, aged vanilla, boysenberry and maple syrup set up flavors of black cherry, black currant and ripe plum. It’s all backed by smooth, approachable tannins that give way to a lengthy finish. (124 cases; 14.4% alc.) Goose Ridge Vineyards $30 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley At more than 1,600 acres planted, Goose Ridge is one of Washington’s largest vineyards, and the Monson family is dedicated to high-quality viticulture and winemaking. This delicious Merlot opens with classic aromas of cherry pipe tobacco, as well as black cherry and dusty minerality. On the palate, flavors of blackberry jam on toast give way to a full, round, rich mouth feel and a lingering finish. (385 cases; 15.0% alc.)

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merlot TASTING RESULTS Nelms Road $25 2014 Merlot, Washington Woodward Canyon Winery owner Rick Small created Nelms Road as an outlet to showcase delicious wines made from younger vines. This is a great example, thanks to lovely aromas of spice, red currant and raspberry, followed by rich, luscious ripe dark berry and chocolate. It’s a delicious and approachable young red. (1,848 cases; 14.2% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $28 2012 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills This vineyard overlooking the Columbia River was first planted in 1991 and has become a favorite of winemaker Bob Bertheau. This is a classic Washington Merlot, thanks to aromas of coffee, tobacco and blackberry, followed by flavors of cherry and blueberry. Elegant hints of oak reveal a deft touch in the cellar. (10,450 cases; 14.5% alc.) Goose Ridge Vineyards $30 2011 Merlot, Columbia Valley One of the coolest vintages on record was 2011, a year that started slowly and never quite caught up. Yet, a long summer and fall allowed the grapes to hang on the vines and develop fascinating flavors. This is a delicious example, with aromas of fennel, blueberry and dark cherry giving way to flavors of pie cherry, dried cranberry and raspberry cobbler. It’s a complex and juicy red. (328 cases; 14.8% alc.) Robert Karl Cellars $24 2013 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Joe Gunselman is a doctor by day and a winemaker by night, and his abilities in the cellar have been proved for more than a decade. He used grapes from Andrews Horse Heaven Ranch, one of the top growers in Washington, for this tasty red. Aromas of minerally earth and black fruit lead to flavors of red currant, black olive and a hint of vanilla. Complex, layered tannins provide impeccable balance throughout. (100 cases; 14.3% alc.) Barrel Springs Winery $20 2011 Merlot, Columbia Valley This small, family-owned winery near Prosser has been crafting wines since 2006, after acquiring its estate vineyard in 2002. This delicious Merlot opens with aromas of W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

spice, vanilla and cherry, followed by voluptuous flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and black pepper. It’s a fruit-driven, approachable wine. (50 cases; 14.5% alc.) Whidbey Island Winery $18 2014 Merlot, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Greg Osenbach is one of the few Washington winemakers to use grapes from both sides of the Cascade Mountains. This delicious Merlot comes from the dry side of the state, relying on Crawford Vineyard near Prosser. Aromas of cranberry, ripe strawberry and vanilla lead to flavors of red cherry, pomegranate and caramel. It’s a delicious, juicy and approachable young red wine. (200 cases; 14.1% alc.) Basel Cellars Estate Winery $32 2012 Basel Cellars Estate Merlot, Columbia Valley Based in a former mansion south of downtown Walla Walla, Basel Cellars has earned a reputation through the years for crafting elegant red wines. This beautiful example reveals aromas of fig, black currant and Marionberry, followed by juicy flavors of huckleberry, blackberry and beautiful minerality in the finish. (776 cases; 15.3% alc.) Maryhill Winery $28 2012 McKinley Springs Vineyard Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills McKinley Springs is owned by the Andrews family, which has been farming in the Horse Heaven Hills since before World War II. Winemaker Richard Batchelor has crafted a delicious Merlot offering aromas of vanilla spice, black cherry and ripe strawberry, followed by flavors of Rainier cherry, baked walnut and sweet spices. It’s all backed by racy tannins and ample fruit on the finish. (238 cases; 15.4% alc.) Desert Wind Winery $18 2013 Merlot, Wahluke Slope The Fries family owns this winery in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser and its estate vineyard on the arid Wahluke Slope. This delicious Merlot opens with aromas of chai spices, vanilla and ripe strawberry, followed by clean, bright flavors of big red plum and red cherry backed by perky tannins. (1,736 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Palouse Winery $30 2012 Dineen Vineyard Mirage Merlot, Washington This winery on Vashon Island west of Seattle uses grapes from one of the top vineyards in the Yakima Valley. The result is a delicious Merlot with aromas of pie cherry, black currant and licorice, followed by plush flavors of plum, pomegranate and blackberry. Beautifully managed tannins give this elegance and length. (75 cases; 13.8% alc.) Barrel Springs Winery $18 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Coming from one of the finest vintages in Washington wine history, this tasty Merlot provides aromas of red cherry, pomegranate and pipe tobacco. On the palate, it reveals flavors of cranberry, Bing cherry and dark chocolate, all backed by elegant tannins and an intriguing floral note on the finish. (50 cases; 14.2% alc.) Two Mountain Winery $22 2013 Merlot, Yakima Valley Brothers Matthew and Patrick Rawn are two of the young guns of the Washington wine industry, and they operate their estate vineyard and winery in the Rattlesnake Hills near the town of Zillah. This delicious Merlot opens with aromas of oak, vanilla, spice and red currant, followed by approachable flavors of boysenberry, vanilla and dark chocolate. It’s all backed by expertly handled acidity and tannin. (625 cases; 13.9% alc.) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $25 2013 Gravity Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Using grapes from his estate Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, owner/ winemaker Jarrod Boyle has crafted a luscious Merlot with aromas of minerality, pomegranate and spice, followed by flavors of berry cobbler, dark chocolate and black pepper. It’s a young, delicious and approachable red. (328 cases; 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $12 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley This is one of the largest, most affordable and most delicious Merlots in the United States, thanks to the 14 Hands team in Prosser. This tasty red opens with aromas of spearmint, rose hips and red currant, followed by S p r i n g 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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approachable flavors of cherry, ripe strawberry and a dusting of cocoa powder. (275,000 cases; 13.5% alc.) Burnt Bridge Cellars $32 2013 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Southwestern Washington has a small but growing wine community, and this downtown Vancouver producer is leading the charge. Using grapes from the Walla Walla Valley, it has crafted a superb Merlot that provides aromas of cola, elderberry and blueberry, followed by juicy flavors of cherry jam, a hint of oak and huckleberry. It’s all backed by bright, approachable tannins. (124 cases; 15.4% alc.) Gärd Vintners $35 2013 Lawrence Vineyards Merlot, Columbia Valley The Lawrence family grows some of Washington’s best grapes in the Frenchman Hills near the community of Royal City, and its tasting room is in Ellensburg. This tasty Merlot provides complex aromas of blueberry, lime zest and blackberry jam, followed by bold flavors of black cherry and pomegranate. It’s all backed by firm tannins and bright acidity. (125 cases; 14.2% alc.) Lost River Winery $24 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Based in the North Cascades town of Winthrop, this boutique producer is one of the best little unknown wineries in Washington. This delicious Merlot offers aromas of ripe strawberry, a hint of lime and a dusting of cocoa powder. On the palate, it shows off beautifully balanced flavors of black cherry and boysenberry, all backed by rich, approachable tannins. (300 cases; 14.5% alc.) Bunnell Family Cellar $38 2013 Merlot, Red Mountain Ron Bunnell learned his craft in California before heading to Washington to take over winemaking at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Today, he runs his own small winery in the Yakima Valley. This tasty Merlot offers aromas of black cherry, sweet oak and vanilla, followed by flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and cherry pipe tobacco. It’s all backed by solid, approachable tannins. (171 cases; 14.6% alc.) Woodward Canyon Winery 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley

$44

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Winemaker Kevin Mott relies primarily on grapes from Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for this impressive Merlot. Aromas of red currant, cherry jam and cranberry lead to bright, approachable flavors of ripe strawberry and raspberry. Juicy, approachable tannins lead to a tasty finish. (503 cases; 14.2% alc.) DeLille Cellars $49 2013 Merlot, Yakima Valley DeLille, one of Washington’s most-respected wineries, crafts wines of elegance and artistry. This Merlot is all of that and more, thanks to aromas of rose petals, red cherry, pomegranate and spice. On the palate, red cherry and strawberry give way to plush tannins and a memorable finish. (390 cases; 14.4% alc.) Cave B Estate Winery $30 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Chef-turned-winemaker Freddy Arredondo oversees winemaking for this showpiece winery next to the Gorge Amphitheater in George, Wash. It’s an elegant wine with aromas of barrel spice, rose petal, Graham cracker and red fruit, followed by flavors of cherry, pomegranate and huckleberry. It’s all backed by juicy acidity and elegant tannins. (500 cases; 15.1% alc.) Best Buy! Columbia Crest $15 2013 H3 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Crest, one of Washington’s oldest and largest wineries, uses Horse Heaven Hills grapes for its H3 tier, and this is delicious and affordable. Aromas of black currant, anise and blueberry lead to flavors of red licorice, cherry and plum. Charming tannins give this youthful approachability. A perfect wine for midweek dinner. (75,000 cases; 14.5% alc.) Van Camp Cellars $25 2012 Portteus Vineyard Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills Paul Portteus has been growing wine grapes near Zillah, Wash., since the early 1980s, and the fruit he produces is some of the most prized in the state. This example of Merlot from a great vintage provides aromas of blueberry, fig and dark chocolate, followed by creamy flavors of vanilla, chocolate, spice and pomegranate. (25 cases; 14% alc.)

Barrage Cellars $28 2011 AKA Merlot, Columbia Valley This small Woodinville, Wash., winery acquired grapes from three top vineyards: Red Willow, Destiny Ridge and Conner Lee. The resulting wine is intense and complex, with aromas of blueberry, fig and dried cherry that lead to hedonistic flavors of cranberry and red currant. It’s a juicy wine with ample length in the finish. (424 cases; 14.5% alc.) Estrin Estates $25 2012 Merlot, Red Mountain This small Issaquah, Wash., winery uses grapes from acclaimed Red Mountain Vineyard to craft a bold yet suave Merlot. Aromas of sage, blackberry and blueberry give way to flavors of Montmorency cherry, Saskatoon berry and plum. Bold yet pliable tannins lift the fruit and carry it through to a lengthy and memorable finish. (25 cases; 14.6% alc.) Vino la Monarcha $20 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Victor Palencia crafts this affordable Merlot at his operation at the Walla Walla airport. It opens with aromas of raspberry, vanilla and hints of oak, followed by rich flavors of cherry, milk chocolate and spice. Approachable tannins give this youthful accessibility through the medium finish. (96 cases; 14.2% alc.) Diversion $20 2014 Merlot, Columbia Valley Diversion is the Washington brand of Seattle-based Rainier Wine Co., and this delicious and affordable Merlot is one of its many wines. Columbia Valley winemaker Katy Michaud developed aromas of pipe tobacco, black cherry and black olive, which lead to elegant flavors of smooth red fruit backed by bright acidity and mild tannins. (16,000 cases; 13.9% alc.) Best Buy! Jones of Washington Winery $15 2012 Merlot, Wahluke Slope Based in Mattawa, Wash., Jones has tasting rooms in Quincy and Wenatchee. Under the direction of winemaker Victor Palencia, it is crafting wines of distinction at value prices. This opens with aromas of oak spice, Bing

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merlot TASTING RESULTS cherry, vanilla and caramel, followed by big, dark, brooding flavors of plum and blackberry. Rich tannins give way to a big finish. (1,810 cases; 14.1% alc.) Basel Cellars Estate Winery $36 2012 Double River Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Dirk Bring is the winemaker at this showcase winery a few miles south of downtown Walla Walla, and he has sent out a delicious Merlot from valley grapes. It opens with aromas of violet, black cherry, black olive and vanilla, while on the palate, its bright, smooth flavors of Rainier cherry and plum are backed with moderate tannins. (88 cases; 15.2% alc.) Del Rio Vineyards $28 2013 Merlot, Rogue Valley In the past 15 years, Del Rio has gained the well-earned reputation for some of the best grapes in the Pacific Northwest. And its resulting wines also are delicious. This example of Merlot opens with exotic aromas of Italian herbs and red currant, followed by delicious flavors of Rainier cherry and dried cranberry. It’s all backed by bright, foodfriendly acidity. (650 cases; 13.6% alc.) Helix by Reininger $28 2011 Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Chuck Reininger uses his Helix label to showcase wines that use grapes from outside of the Walla Walla Valley, and they are consistently delicious. This opens with aromas of rosemary, fig and blueberry, followed by flavors of President plum and huckleberry, all backed by expertly man-

M E R L OT F O O D PA IR IN G S Here are a few favorite dishes to pair with Northwest Merlot. • Spaghetti and meatballs • Meatloaf • Grilled steaks, particularly rib eye • Grilled pork chops • Braised short ribs • Meat lovers pizza • Roast duck • Lasagna • Roasted pork loin • Mushroom Swiss burger • Slow-cooked roast beef

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aged tannins and a long farewell. (719 cases; 14.5% alc.) Dumas Station Wines $32 2013 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Based in the Columbia County town of Dayton, northeast of Walla Walla, Dumas Station is a gem of a winery that should be high on wine lovers’ radars. This luscious Merlot opens with aromas of minerality, black pepper and dark cherry, followed by flavors of boysenberry, vanilla, spice and cocoa powder. It’s a rich wine with ample structure. (250 cases; 14.5% alc.) Barrage Cellars $28 2012 AKA Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner Kevin Correll crafted this Merlot using grapes from such acclaimed vineyards as Red Willow, Conner Lee and Boushey. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of lavender, Marionberry jam, peppercorns and pomegranate. It’s backed by bright acidity and firm tannins. (504 cases; 14.7% alc.) Madsen Family Cellars $26 2009 Merlot, Washington This small Olympia, Wash., winery brought in grapes from the old Seth Ryan Vineyard on Red Mountain to craft a Merlot with brightness and vibrancy. Aromas of dried cranberry, sweet cherry and minerality give way to bright, high-toned red fruit, including raspberry and cherry. Mild tannins afford this youthful approachability. (120 cases; 14.9% alc.) J&J Vintners $30 2012 Middleton Petty Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Using the first harvest from their estate vineyard, these two Walla Walla Community College winemaking grads have produced a rich and complex Merlot that offers aromas and flavors of cherry pipe tobacco blueberry and pomegranate. Its bright acidity and modest tannins make this a perfect match for grilled meats or lasagna. (25 cases; 13.2% alc.) DaMa Wines $35 2013 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This downtown Walla Walla winery is owned and operated by Mary Derby and Judith Shulman. Their 2013 Merlot from a warm vintage reveals aromas of oak spice,

dark walnut and ripe plum, followed by plump, delicious flavors of Marionberry and boysenberry. It’s all backed by elegant tannins that lead to a lengthy finish. (220 cases; 14.5% alc.) Reininger Winery $43 2011 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Chuck Reininger launched his eponymous winery in 1997 at the Walla Walla airport. Long ago, he outgrew the space and has since moved to a spacious facility west of town. This tasting Merlot reveals aromas and flavors of oak, minerality, cherry and ripe plum. It’s a luscious wine with ample underlying complexity. (387 cases; 13.7% alc.) Mission Mountain Winery $18 2010 Reserve Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills Longtime winemaker Tom Campbell owns and operates this winery on the west bank of Flathead Lake south of Kalispell, Montana. He also runs Tanjuli Winery in Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills. This delicious Merlot offers aromas and flavors of cherry, black pepper and raspberry with hints of mint in the finish. It’s a dark, luscious and bold wine with beautiful balance. (210 cases; 13.5% alc.) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $25 2012 Gravity Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle has crafted this delicious Merlot using estate grapes from his Destiny Ridge Vineyard overlooking the Columbia Valley. It’s a complex wine with aromas and flavors of dusty cherry, sarsaparilla, oak and hints of sweet herbs and vanilla. It’s a beautifully bright and balanced red. (343 cases; 14.4% alc.) Recommended Woodward Canyon Winery $44 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Aromas of sweet herbs, dark cherry and minerality give way to rich, hedonistic flavors of blackberry and creamy cocoa in this plush, round Merlot from a top Walla Walla Valley winery. (375 cases; 15.6% alc.) Gifford Hirlinger $34 2012 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This winery along the Washington-Oregon border in the southern Walla Walla Valley has crafted a delicious Merlot with aromas and S p r i n g 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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flavors of black raspberry, plum, vanilla and molasses. It’s all backed by plush tannins. (100 cases; 15.3% alc.) Griffin Creek $40 2011 Merlot, Rogue Valley Focusing on grapes from Southern Oregon, this label for Willamette Valley Vineyards has put together an impressive Merlot with aromas and flavors of cranberry cobbler, sweet raspberry and mint. It’s a delicate, juicy wine. (745 cases; 13.7% alc.) Indian Creek Winery $16 2012 Merlot, Snake River Valley Indian Creek is based near the Idaho community of Nampa in the vast Snake River Valley. This Merlot reveals aromas and flavors of cherry Jolly Rancher candy, strawberry and blueberry. Sturdy tannins provide ample structure. (100 cases; 13.9% alc.) Skylite Cellars $30 2012 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This small, high-end winery is just west of downtown Walla Walla. Its Merlot offers aromas and flavors of rich dark berry, vanilla and dark chocolate wrapped around firm tannins and a smooth, approachable mouth feel. (130 cases; 13.9% alc.) Eleganté Cellars $33 2008 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Retired high school chemistry teacher Doug Simmons runs this boutique winery at the Walla Walla airport. His Merlot is loaded with aromas and flavors of cherry pipe tobacco, Rainier cherry, ripe strawberry and minerality. (246 cases; 13.3% alc.) Maryhill Winery $34 2012 Proprietor's Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley Richard Batchelor crafts the wines for this Goldendale, Wash., winery, and he has put together a delicious Merlot with aromas and flavors of cordial cherry, red currant and cranberry, all backed by mouth-watering acidity and a long, juicy finish. (355 cases; 14.8% alc.)

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Northwest Totem Cellars $39 2011 Sagemoor Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley Based in Redmond, Wash., this winery used grapes from one of Washington’s oldest vineyards to produce a Merlot with aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruit backed by spicy oak, hints of walnut and dark chocolate. (110 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Eight Bells Winery $25 2011 Merlot, Red Mountain This boutique producer in north Seattle uses grapes from Hedges and Ambassador vineyards on warm Red Mountain to produce a Merlot with depth and vibrancy. Aromas and flavors of red currant, cherry and black raspberry are backed by youthful acidity. (128 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $24 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Here is a luscious, fruit-driven Merlot with aromas and flavors of ripe raspberry, black cherry and black pepper. It offers hints of sweet oak backed by rich tannins that give it ample depth and length. (1,045 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Agate Creek Cellars $28 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Aromas of oak spice, black cherry and raspberry lead to big flavors of round and dark ripe fruit. It’s all backed by chocolaty tannins that will help this pair well with grilled meats or tomato-based dishes. (48 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Agate Creek Cellars $28 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley This winery in the southwestern Washington city of Chehalis has crafted a round, luscious Merlot with aromas and flavors of caramel, blackberry and huckleberry. It is smooth and approachable with a delicious finish. (60 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $42 2012 Kiona Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain Kiona is the oldest vineyard on Red Mountain (first planted in 1975) and continues to be one of its best. This wine provides aromas and flavors of spice, Bing cherry and maple syrup, all backed by delicious acidity and moderate tannins. (123 cases; 15.1% alc.)

SuLei Cellars $45 2012 Reserve Merlot, Walla Walla County Based in Walla Walla, this boutique producer presents this delicious Merlot that is loaded with aromas and flavors of black cherry, ripe strawberry, vanilla and dark chocolate. It is backed by sturdy tannins that provide plenty of length. (35 cases; 15.1% alc.) Ward Johnson Winery $25 2010 Merlot, Red Mountain This urban Seattle winery uses grapes from Hedges Vineyard on Red Mountain to craft a Merlot with aromas of sage, black currant and cherry cola. It’s all backed by silky tannins and a creamy midpalate. (120 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Weisinger Family Winery $26 2012 Merlot, Rogue Valley This winery in the Southern Oregon community of Ashland has crafted a rich, smooth Merlot with aromas and flavors of vanilla, black cherry and spice. It’s a plush wine that is backed by mild tannins and a round finish. (101 cases; 14.7% alc.) FairWinds Winery $26 2005 Merlot, Yakima Valley This well-aged release from a small Port Townsend, Wash., winery reveals elegance amid its aromas and flavors of complex spice, dark chocolate and Rainier cherry. It’s all backed by firm tannins and juicy acidity. (105 cases; 13.5% alc.) ANDY PERDUE.

is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS March 19 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. More than 30 Northwest wineries take center stage at the 27th annual fundraiser for Saint Martin's University from noon to 9 p.m. Tickets start at $15. Contact 360-438-4366 or go to capitalfoodandwinefestival.com. 31-April 3 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington's signature wine event includes two days of public tasting and education at the CenturyLink Field Event Center. Tickets start at $90. Go to tastewashington.org

April 1-2 LeMay Wine & Chocolate, Tacoma, Wash. The Marymount Event Center plays host to local wines, spirits, chocolates and more than 70 vendors. Cost is $25. Go to facebook.com/lemaymarymount. 8-9 Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamins Edgefield Winery brings in winemakers and distributors from the Northwest and beyond for the 15th annual Syrah showdown. Go to celebrationofsyrah.com. 9-10 North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend. Gaston, Ore. More than 20 members of the North Willamette Vintners group offer tastings, culinary samples, education and events. Tickets start at $30. Go to nwvintners.org. 15-17 Northwest Wine Encounter at Semiahmoo, Blaine, Wash. Spend a weekend of wine, food and education with winemakers Bob Betz and Louis Skinner of Betz Family Winery, Darel Allwine of Col Solare, Chris Upchurch of De Lille Cellars and Joe Dobbes of Dobbes Family Estate at Semiahmoo Resort. Go to semiahmoo.com. 16-17 and 23-24 Chelan Nouveau, Lake Chelan, Wash. Nearly 30 member wineries around the Lake Chelan are ready to debut whites and rosés on successive weekends. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com. 22-24 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases more than 40 wineries and special seminars in the Northwest's oldest appellation. Cost is $35. Go to wineyakimavalley.org. 22-24 Astoria Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival, Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries while enjoying seafood at the mouth of the Columbia River. This marks the event's 34th year. Go to oldoregon.com. 28-May 8 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to thewinefestivals.com. 29-1 Columbia Gorge Wine Experience. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River participate. Go to columbiagorgewine.com

May 6-8 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. Also known as "Leonetti Weekend," this is one of two weekends when nearly every winery in the valley is open. Go to wallawallawine.com.

6-8 Mom’s Weekend on Sunnyslope Wine Trail, Caldwell, Idaho. The Sunnyslope Wine District offers concerts, free flowers, special tastings and more to mothers. Go to sunnyslopewinetrail.org. 14 Northwest Corks and Crush, Puyallup, Wash. Wineries in Oregon and Washington pour to help fund services at MultiCare Good Samaritan Hospital. Go to multicare.org/home/northwest-corks-crush. 21-22 Spring Barrel Tasting, Lake Chelan, Wash. This annual event showcases more than 30 wineries who pour samples straight from the barrel. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com. 28-30 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country. Willamette Valley, Ore. More than 150 wineries participate in the 25th year of the event. Go to willamettewines.com. 28-30 Columbia Gorge Grape to Table Weekend. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River participate in tourist events during Memorial Day weekend. Go to columbiagorgewine.com

June 4 Leavenworth Summer Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash. More than 20 regional wineries gather to pour at 20 downtown spots. Go to cascadefarmlands.com. 12 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission stages its eighth annual event pairing Idaho’s top wines with regional cuisine at the Idaho Botanical Garden. Go to savoridaho.org. 16-18 Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine. This fourth annual event gathers more than 60 Walla Walla Valley winemakers and others from around the world to explore Cabernet Sauvignon. Go to celebratewallawalla.squarespace.com. 25 Chelan Cycle de Vine, Chelan, Wash. The tour enters its seventh year and takes riders across the lake to visit some of the region’s top wineries. Go to facebook.com/cycledevine

6-8 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Cork District wineries continue to open their doors to visitors on Mother’s Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net.

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May 7th

$25 Adults / $15 Youth 10k, 5k and 1mile Run - Walk Howard Amon Park in Richland Check In 8:30 am | Run - Walk Begins 10:00 am

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Generously sponsored by

8:30am - 11:00am: RibbonFest Cancer Awareness Health Fair Register online: www.runforribbons.org Register by phone: 509.737.3413

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Wine making is your passion. Building your winery is ours.

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BUDD’S BROILER

ADDS SIZZLE TO WASHINGTON WINE COUNTRY ANTHONY’S RESTAURANTS FOUNDER STEPS OUT WITH RICHLAND STEAKHOUSE STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

ICHLAND, Wash. — Seattle seafood restaurateur Budd Gould long has enjoyed bird hunting and golfing in the Tri-Cities, and he liked the idea of starting a steakhouse in the middle of Washington wine country.

Less than a year ago, he pulled the trigger and opened Budd’s Broiler. That it’s a 1-iron from his successful Anthony’s at Columbia Point makes it more delicious as his company becomes a stakeholder in the high-rent district of the Richland Yacht Club while

helping to develop a culture of fine dining for the Tri-Cities. “We’re getting discovered by people who really like steaks,” said Lane Hoss, longtime vice president of marketing for Anthony’s Restaurants and one of the top wine judges

Budd’s Broiler, offering patio seating overlooking the Columbia River, features quality Washington wines.

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The Tomahawk, a 3-pound Rib Eye steak served with the bone attached, is a signature dish at Buddâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Paired with a bottle of Woodward Canyon Dedication Series Old Vines Cabernet, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect special occasion dinner for two.

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Thurston Wolfe 2012 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah, Horse Heaven Hills 297 cases, 14.5% alc.

$20

PROSSER, Wash. — Petite Sirah does not make for a dainty wine, nor is it a blueblooded Syrah. Instead, its birthplace is France’s Rhône Valley, a chance crossing of Peloursin with Syrah in the nursery of botanist Francois Durif in the late 19th century. In Washington state, the grape shines year after year in the hands of Prosser winemaker Wade Wolfe. Last year, the Thurston Wolfe 2012 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah ranked No. 7 overall on The Seattle Times 50 best wines of 2015. The quality and price point are just two reasons why it’s on the list at Budd’s Broiler in Richland. “Back when I was working at Hogue Cellars, Hogue was producing the Anthony’s custom Chardonnay and Merlot, so we have that history going back to the early 1990s,” Wolfe said. The vine’s small berries and some confusion with Syrah planted early on in the Bay Area inspired Californians to call it Petite Sirah. These days, historians and a few winemakers refer to the variety as Durif - its original name. (To learn more about the grape, go to psiloveyou.org.) Wolfe, with a Ph.D. in plant genetics from the University of California-Davis, was brought to Washington in 1978 by Chateau Ste. Michelle as director of vineyard operations. Twenty years later, he convinced the Watts family to establish Zephyr Ridge Vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills near the Columbia River town of Paterson. Plantings featured Petite Sirah and Primitivo, and Thurston Wolfe began using Petite Sirah from Zephyr Ridge in 2002. “I would say that through 2007, we did make Petite Sirah in that bigger, bolder, rugged style, and people were enamored with that style a lot,” Wolfe said with a chuckle. However, the cooler vintage of 2008 prompted Wolfe to alter his winemaking. “I decided to make a more lighter style wine in terms of the tannin load,” he said. Rather than fermenting to dryness then pressing, he began pressing at 5 percent residual sugar to tone down the tannins. In 2011, another cool vintage, he moderated the tannins again — this time by using whole-berry fermentation. “The 2012 vintage was a product of whole-berry fermentation and early pressing, a combination to essentially manage the tannins a bit more,” Wolfe said. “There’s been interest in the market for it, and the response that I get from people is that they seem to like the milder Petite Sirah.” Another transition has been to go from a barrel program of 50 percent new oak down to about a third new oak with more lower levels of toast by the cooper. “And my Petite Sirahs have always been exclusively American oak,” Wolfe said. “I think the variety lends itself to American oak when trying to take advantage of the higher fruitiness than they get in California.” It’s a good thing Wolfe is a patient man. Despite the success he’s had with the grape in the past decade, many consumers need to be educated. Fortunately for them, they won’t find a better teacher. “I was pouring my 2011 Reserve Petite Sirah the other night in Yakima, and probably 50 times I had to give the explanation on the difference between Syrah and Petite Sirah,” Wolfe chuckled. Thurston Wolfe, 588 Cabernet Court, Prosser WA 99352, 509-7863313, thurstonwolfe.com.

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Head Chef Matt Nobbs checks on a Wagyu top sirloin steak, featured on the Early Bird dinner menu for $19.99.

on the West Coast. “And this gives us the opportunity to go out and buy more of these great Washington reds.” For the record, it was Gould’s employees who pushed their beloved boss into using his name for the dinner-only steakhouse. This spring, his team will open its 30th restaurant in the Pacific Northwest, making its debut in the Idaho market with an Anthony’s in Coeur d’Alene near the Spokane River. While Anthony’s operates neighboring seafood houses as well as steakhouses in Bellingham, Everett and Olympia, it took a different and deliberate approach with Budd’s Broiler. The building began as the Sundance Grill but was shuttered within two years. Gould purchased it in 2006 and operated it nearly a decade as an events center for his popular Columbia Point restaurant before the somewhat playful remodel. “When I opened my first restaurant in ’69, there really wasn’t a wine industry,” Gould said during last year’s ribbon-cutting. “In our restaurant, we were selling Mateus, Lancers and liebfraumilch, so it’s been a great journey for myself to learn about the wine industry and see what we’ve done in the state of Washington.” Gould, a graduate of the University of Washington and Harvard, toasted the June 2015 opening of Budd’s Broiler with a fundraiser for Washington State University’s wine program and gathered luminaries from the Washington wine industry to help him celebrate. “It’s a big deal,” Norm McKibben, the Walla Walla Valley vintner and grower, said at the opening. “Anthony’s has definitely supported us — the wine industry and Pepper Bridge — all the way around. When they dropped us an invite, there’s no way you can turn it down.”

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Chargrilled New York Steak

with Irish Champ Potatoes and Marinated Tomatoes Serves 4

New York Steak 4 one-inch thick cut New York steaks 1 teaspoon of your favorite steak seasoning 8 ounces marinated cherry tomatoes (see recipe below) Champ potatoes (see recipe below) 1. Salt steaks with kosher salt and chargrill on high heat until desired internal temperature is reached (125 degrees for medium rare). 2. Sprinkle your favorite steak seasoning. Serve with champ potatoes and marinated tomatoes.

Champ potatoes 4 medium russet potatoes 2 cups whole milk 8 ounces salted butter, room temperature 1/2 cup chopped chives 1. Peel potatoes. Heat large pot with water until boiling. 2. Steam or boil potatoes until fork soft (about 7 minutes). Drain/remove from heat and put into large bowl. 3. Heat milk over medium heat until warm (about 3 minutes). 4. Add milk and butter to bowl with potatoes and mash until it has reached desired consistency. Serve immediately.

Marinated Cherry Tomatoes 1 pint cherry tomatoes halved or quartered 1 shallot finely minced 2 ounces green olives with pimentos roughly chopped 1 tablespoon white sugar 1 ounce red wine vinegar 1. Mix all ingredients together and refrigerate. This can be prepared two days in advance.

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Cilantro Grilled Ocean Prawns with Cornbread Pudding Serves 4 16 U-15 large prawns, deveined and butterflied 2 cups of cilantro pesto (see recipe below) 1 cup aioli sauce (recipe below) 2 tablespoons red bell pepper diced 4 long skewers 1. Put eight butterflied prawns onto each skewer. Marinate prawns in cilantro pesto for one hour in refrigerator. 2. Char-grill prawns on medium-high heat for about 1 minute on each side until the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees. 3. Remove from heat and top prawns with some of the remaining cilantro pesto. Drizzle aioli sauce over prawns and sprinkle with the diced red peppers. 4. Serve with cornbread pudding.

Aioli Sauce 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil 1 ounce white wine vinegar 3 eggs 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 2 cloves garlic finely minced 1 teaspoon sugar 1. Process eggs in a food processor or blender until light and fluffy (about 2 minutes). 2. With the processor still running, slowly drizzle in oil. Add remaining ingredients and mix to combine. 3. Mixture should be moderately thick. 4. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Cilantro Pesto 4 bunches cilantro chopped fine 2 cups olive oil 2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest 2 cloves of finely minced garlic 1. Combine all ingredients and refrigerate until needed. Yields 2 cups.

Cornbread Pudding 1/2 pound cold cornbread cut into 1-inch cubes (a fine-milled cornmeal or box mix works fine.) 3 ounces Monterrey Jack cheese grated 2 eggs 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup yellow onions diced 1 teaspoon parsley chopped 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Put cornbread cubes into a well-oiled 9-inch x 9-inch pan. 3. Add onions, cheese and parsley. In a separate bowl, mix eggs, cream and salt together until well incorporated. Pour egg mixture evenly over cornbread mixture. 4. Bake 15-20 minutes until golden brown. Cut into 4 large, triangular pieces. The world-class quality of Columbia Valley red wines combined with mouthwatering slabs of Double R Ranch beef or dry-aged, 14-ounce New York steaks from Snake River 64

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Farms’ Wagyu American Kobe create matches made in heaven for carnivores. Regional chef Tony Ring, who opened the flagship Anthony’s at Pier 66 in 1996, said

Budd’s Broiler and its steak program has been fascinating. If the Richland grill continues to succeed, expect it to serve as a template. “I hope so,” Ring said. “It’s fun and differWINEPRESSNW.COM

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ent than what we’re used to. I’ve learned a lot about meat and dry-aging in the last year.” His executive chef at Budd’s, Matthew Nobbs, doesn’t try to hide his enthusiasm. “I have all the tools I need here,” he said. “I couldn’t be any happier.” Dry-aging meat is akin to managing a grape for an ice wine, as the grapes become desiccated their sugars are concentrated. “We age it for 30 days wet in a vacuum-sealed packing and then it goes into dry aging, a minimum of 14 days and up to 30 days,” Ring said. “What that does is condense the moisture in the meat, becoming intensified so the flavors are huge — amplified. We do it for one cut — just the New York.” At Budd’s Broiler, Nobbs starts the process in a refrigerator-sized dehumidifier with a layer of rock salt that covers the bottom of the chiller to pull out moisture. The humidity target inside the unit is 87 percent, and the salt is replaced every two weeks. Nobbs receives updates from the unit on his phone. “After two weeks, I trim the fat cap off,” Nobbs said. “The color isn’t the vibrant red of a fresh steak. It’s more of a dark red.” Its appearance might rattle the uneducated American consumer. However, after fat becomes caramelized in the Jopser, a charcoal broiler oven built in Bellingham that achieves a temperature of 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Nobbs’ larger grill is fired by locally harvested apple wood. Their combined efforts result in the sizzling product that’s the equivalent of meat candy — suave, decadent and something to be savored bite by bite.

Lane Hoss, Vice President of Marketing for Anthony’s and one of the top wine judges on the west coast, and Regional General Manager Mike Tvedt (right) have an affinity for the world-class wines of the Columbia Valley. WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Barnard Griffin $12 2014 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley 1,500 cases, 12.4% Anthony’s Restaurants can’t get their hands on enough of Rob Griffin’s perennially award-winning Sangiovese rosé. His 2013 Merlot ranks among the best in the Northwest, and yet his skill with Pinot Gris earns Barnard Griffin placement on a steakhouse’s wine list. “Well, Anthony’s and Lane Hoss have been wonderful supporters of our industry and our winery over the years,” Griffin said. The story of his Pinot Gris starts in Caroway Vineyard, not far from the Columbia River community of Finley, Wash. Griffin and his wife, artist Deborah Barnard, share ownership of the vineyard with Carol and Wayne Miller. The site, coined by simply blending the Millers’ first names, was established around 1980. “They started it up and haven’t thought of a better use for it,” Griffin said. Its history includes Riesling, and grapes have gone to wineries such as Hogue Cellars, where Griffin worked while launching his own winery. “They planted Pinot Gris there about 10 years ago, but among the things that are important about that site is that grapes were planted there in the ’60s - some vinifera and some French hybrid stuff way back when,” Griffin said. Global climate change has worked in their favor because Caroway offers a slightly northern exposure. “That’s normally against the playbook, and the soils are thin and poor, which is best for quality and not for quantity,” Griffin said. “It’s been incredibly winter hardy, though, and we’ve decided that the standard bilateral cordon trellising is the best way to cultivate it.” Accumulating sugar is not Griffin’s primary concern with Pinot Gris. Rather, it’s preserving acidity for food applications. In 2014, that meant harvesting on Aug. 24. Last year’s record heat prompted an Aug. 14. pick. “That’s just insanity,” Griffin said. “That’s not just because of the variety, but the season in general.” Another worry is that if he hangs the grapes longer, the skin will turn reddish or “gray” — which is the English translation of gris. “As it gets riper, the pigment in the skin becomes more soluble, and I don’t want more color,” he said. “And we have not barrel-aged Pinot Gris because that’s not the flavor profile you want, and it’s probably an inappropriate idea for the variety.” He also avoids lees contact because he’s worried about the potential of unwanted aromas and taps out any residual sugar. “We pretty much ferment it and get it off the lees right away,” Griffin said. “It comes into its own after about a year in the bottle.” That responsibility rests with the consumer because Barnard Griffin has sold through the 2014 at his tasting room. The 2015 was bottled in late February, and he looks to capture subtle aromas of guava, kiwi fruit and pear, followed by clean and brisk flavors of Asian pear, starfruit, honeydew melon and lemon. “Shellfish is great with it, as it does have some refreshing acidity,” Griffin said. “Chicken? Not as much, in my opinion. I would go in the direction of Chardonnay for that.” So he agreed with the Budd’s Broiler approach of Cilantro Grilled Ocean Prawns with Cornbread Pudding. He looks forward to going over the cornbread pudding recipe. “I make cornbread pudding myself, but I’ll bet theirs is better,” Griffin deadpanned. Barnard Griffin, 878 Tulip Lane, Richland, WA 99352, 509-627-0266, barnardgriffin.com

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“When the fat cooks up, it’s like eating sugar,” Ring said, “but it is expensive to do this.” There’s little doubt Nobbs is in his element at Budd’s Broiler. Before he graduated from Southridge High School in Kennewick, he’d assumed the role of grillmaster for backyard barbecues. A decade later, he’d climbed through the ranks at Anthony’s and took over the kitchen at Budd’s Broiler by the age of 29. That makes him the second-youngest executive chef in the company. “Syrah is usually what I drink,” Nobbs said. “I love going out and wine tasting, and my aunt from California is a wino and she loves coming up here. It’s cool to get her perspective.” Managing the cellar at Budd’s is sommelier Eric Zegzula, who joined the company in 1989 as a server at Anthony’s HomePort in Des Moines. There, he began his wine training and arrived in Richland as a wine manager when Gould opened that restaurant in 2004. Six years later, the Washington State Wine Commission named Zegzula its som-

melier of the year. His standing within the Tri-City wine community continues to help build the following for Budd’s steak program. “As word has gotten out, we’re getting more savvy people coming in and ordering their steak ‘black and blue’ or “Pittsburgh,” Nobbs said. “It’s not uncommon at all here anymore.” Arguably no other restaurant group supports the Washington wine industry to the extent of Anthony’s Restaurants. The Washington State Wine Commission has recognized that, having presented its highest honor — the Walter Clore Honorarium — to Gould and Hoss. That work is not lost on the region’s winery executives and winemakers, who have embraced Budd’s Broiler, too. “It has been fun to get to know the wine community,” said Mike Tvedt, who manages both Richland restaurants. “We have people from the wine industry at both restaurants all the time, and they’ve been a big help to us here from the beginning in 2004.” Myriad factors contribute to the rising market price for beef — including the grain

market in the Midwest — but Gould’s company tries to mitigate the fluctuations. It recently developed its beef company after years of success with its own seafood operation. Diners at Budd’s Broiler can take advantage of that via the four-course Early Bird menu weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m. for $19.99. That bargain lights up the 128-seat steakhouse, bar and in-season patio early each evening. “We have the Wagyu top sirloin on our Early Bird dinner, and you could not get that top sirloin anywhere in the country at that price,” Tvedt said. Hoss added, “The early dining is a signature program for Anthony’s.” A special occasion for two calls for Nobbs’ Tomahawk Rib Eye - a steak priced at $90 and sized for Fred Flintstone — paired with a bottle of Woodward Canyon Dedication Series Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon off Zegzula’s list. While the nearby Anthony’s wine list is essentially a 50/50 split of red and white, at Budd’s Broiler it leans predictably red at 80 percent. For the Match Maker assignment, it

Chef Matt Nobbs (left) and Anthony’s Regional Chef Tony Ring

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seemed natural to spotlight two Yakima Valley winemakers who’ve enjoyed a long association with Anthony’s — Rob Griffin of Barnard Griffin in Richland and Wade Wolfe of Thurston Wolfe in Prosser. Both were among the cadre of Columbia Valley winemakers and growers invited for the ribbon cutting. “Our relationship with Rob and Wade goes back to when they were both at Hogue Cellars,” Hoss said. Griffin’s continued excellence with Pinot Gris off his Caroway Vineyard explains why it’s one of the few white wines left on Zegzula’s list. Ring, Hoss and Nobbs collaborated and offered their Cilantro Grilled Ocean Prawns with Cornbread Pudding, one of the few seafood items left on the menu at Budd’s Broiler. It’s yet another example of the bromide “Pinot Gris and things from the sea.” The pesto and lemon-garlic aioli combine savory and citrusy elements that work nicely with the grilled approach to the U-15 Mexican prawns and spotlight the fruitiness in the Barnard Griffin 2014 Estate Pinot

Gris. Those who balk at the traditional grittiness of corn meal will become fans of this corn bread creation, which involves heavy cream. That moist corn bread, which helped Anthony’s win Alaska Airlines’ Copper River salmon competition three years in a row, becomes almost decadent alongside the bone-dry Pinot Gris. “It has got enough body to stand up to the prawn and the creaminess of the cornbread pudding,” Hoss said. “It has a nice acid balance to it, too. And the lemon in the aioli brightens up the pesto, which goes nicely with the wine.” Wolfe’s suave and dense expression with his 2012 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah — a grape that typically produces a sinewy wine — led to a seamless pairing with the dryaged New York strip. Delicious and ripe red fruit flavors and tamed tannins alongside the lean, flavorful and juicy New York created a lingering finish of caramel and black licorice. “We had a lot of fun trying the different steaks with the Petite Sirah,” Hoss said. “When we had it alongside the other steaks on the menu, the wine seemed a little soft.

With the New York, the lack of that big tannin explosion really is nice.” Ironically, that thoughtful, dry-aging to steak seems to fit within the overall approach of Anthony’s. “We’ve been around for 40 years, and we don’t even have 30 restaurants yet,” said Tvedt, who began working for Gould in 1993. “We’ve been able to maintain a culture that other companies lose because they grow too fast. When I bring in potential employees, I remind them about the tortoise and the hare. We’re not the fastest here, but we’re going to win the race.” ERIC DEGERMAN is CEO and president of Great Northwest Wine (greatnorthwestwine. com).

••• Budd’s Broiler, 450 Columbia Point Drive, Richland, WA 99352 509-946-8178 anthonys.com

Est. 1998

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winery of the year

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grapes of roth BY COKE ROTH

Merlot tasting offered varietal variances

hank you for reading the first sentence of unquestionably the least engaging part of this literary accumulation; the column I write. Some would argue the editor deserves combat pay for initially enduring my original work as he tests his skills on trying to make sense out of what I write. It’s a clever strategy of mine. If you like this column, it’s my unaltered original content and style. If you find it boring, incorrect or stupid, it’s probably also my original content and style... I just hope you join me in blaming the editor. People and wines have different styles; some we favor more. For example, a few of us lucky folks unselfishly judged 100 Merlots … all for you, of course. The stylistic differences of these wines was dramatic; dressed so differently that one from another became brightly distinguishable. Even though some resembled Cabernet, some Pinot Noir, it was the varietal variances made the tasting intriguing. We all liked “different.” I suck at golf, I have to buy fish and when I go hunting, my wife refers to me as “an armed hiker” because I’m such a bad shot. So my hobby is the only thing I can be good at: Travel and tasting and drinking everything I’ve never heard of. I don’t remember saying it, but I probably did at one point: “Sushi?...that’s raw fish!” My one-of-a kind father, who contributed most to broaden the enormous variety of foods and beverages that I enjoy, always said: “Yeah, it’s great… try it!”. I did, and I liked it. We all could’ve stuck with oatmeal, baloney and Chef Boyardee, but we didn’t, we tried the sushi. We chose the Merlot and found various flavor profiles and attributes that differed from the norm and they fit within our range of like. And, while one variety of wine may be what you prefer, most people have a prioritized list of what they have tried and in what order they would prefer to consume. As different non-standard varieties of wine have been planted and made into wine in recent years and now occupy a

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pretty significant part of the market, new favorites have been discovered. There isn’t really any indigenous Northwest grape variety; everything came from someplace else. In the last decade, people have become “BFFs” with Grenache Blanc, Counoise and Carménère; new kids on the block in the grand scheme of things. Many of these were only intended to blend… fill in the holes in the wine that needed supplementation. After all, a fine product is the goal and I’m a big fan of augmentation in a wine. But now these blenders make our cup runneth over with new drinking options. So, we have moved from having the same daily drink…one brand of one variety… to one variety with different styles, and now different varieties with different styles. Holy Moly, we have created a 3-dimensional game of chess with wine! Holy Cow, we are doing the same thing with wine as we do with food! What a concept! You are probably wondering where I am going with this train of thought… me too… and the editor is likely reaching for the pink slip. Alas, my bid to you is to try those varieties you have never had. One of my overall favorite drinkers is the sparsely planted Pinot Blanc. The Germans and Alsatians call it Weissburgunder or Klevner, the Spanish and Italians call it Pinot Bianco, and I call it one of my favorite whites. Although the style varies (imagine that!), I enjoy the consistent stone fruit and citrus presence, with a charming anise note. Auxerrois is another hard-to-finder that is a delicious food wine, and it has the same mommy and daddy as Chardonnay. Albariño….gorgeous acidity, along with peachy and limey flavors, is delish as a beverage or with a citrusy salad. Somewhat of a mainstay now, Viognier, with its orangesicle nose and tropical flavors, is on the radar with most white wine drinkers. Grüner Veltliner, the hard-to-find Austrian contribution to the world of wine, makes a light dinner worth eating. Rous-

sanne, a blender from the Rhone… to-die-for good, with minerality and a limey-peachy fruit. And it’s nutty, spicy Rhone pal, Marsanne, can be so rich, I prefer it with hard cheese…to heck with the entrée. Had a Petit Verdot lately….? Don’t cheat yourself out of a good time any longer. As a blender, representing an itsy-bitsy fraction of the Bordeaux acreage, it is used to brighten tannins and add a blackberry depth to Cabernet- and Merlot-based wines. When made as standalone PV, it is a mouthful. It is said that mongrels sometimes make the best dogs, and that theory also transfers to wines. Plant geneticists have developed some great wine varieties, normally in the quest to breed out disease and pest propensities and breed in winter hardiness and other crop-related advantages. In that noble quest, white wines like Müller-Thurgau and Ehrenfelser, and reds like Zweigelt and a new Minnesota varietal being planted in not enough places up here, Marquette, offer flavor diversity and pleasure to the mundane tuna casserole life you may be leading. Variety is the spice of life (you may quote me), and it is found by not only trying that new brand of the same varietal, it is found in an even greater dynamic in trying the new variety, with friends and food, in moderation, frequently. Please pass the sushi. is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. Learn more about him at cokerothlaw.com.

COKE ROTH

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

The Prosser Vintner’s Village

Where a hub of wineries in the heart of Washington Wine Country's Yakima Valley has emerged as an exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrian-friendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in 6 individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemaker's Loft. Add a stop at the Yellow Rose Nursery ﬁlled with plants & garden supplies plus personal service.

Spring Events! Thurston Wolfe - Featured artists are: Diana Schmidt, showing an exhibit of her watercolors. Carol VonStubbe, displaying her shadow boxes. Ed Maske, showcasing his handcrafted Indian bead bracelets. Cathleen Williams, displaying her lovely earrings and necklaces. The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock - Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for á la carte wining and dining. March

• 20 – Bunnell - “Sunday Supper” to celebrate the ﬁrst day of spring. • 27 – Bunnell - Closed for Easter April

• 1 – McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday - Join us as we break into the vault and open a limited production Library Wine • 6 – Bunnell - Snipes Mountain Tasting featuring Ron Bunnell and Todd Newhouse • 16 – Airﬁeld’s Club Spring Barrel Preview • 16-17 – McKinley Springs - Tasters get a sneak preview of upcoming vintages from their favorite varieties. • 22-24 – Spring Barrel at Airﬁeld Estates - The Rustic Barrel will be joining us for the weekend and on Saturday the 23rd Fresh out the Box will be here. • 22-24 – All Wineries -Spring Barrel; Music, Food, Wine and Glorious Spring Weather. Bring your own glass, stemware is available for purchase. Please contact your favorite winery website for complete details. May

(509) 786-2392

www.martinezwine.com

(509) 788-0030

www.milbrandtvineyards.com

• 4 – Bunnell - Winemaker Wednesday with Ron Bunnell • 6 – McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday - break into the vault and open a limited production Library Wine • 6 - McKinley Springs - Brush On!! Sip & Paint! - 5:30 pm social, 6 pm paint • 7 – Airfield’s Art Series #1 - Mother’s Day Floral Arrangement class. • 7 – Martinez and Martinez Winery - La Familia Wine Club Release • 8 – Bunnell- Mother’s Day Celebration Menu • 8 – Milbrandt Vineyards - Mothers’ Day with Stacey and Suni, Buggirl’s Garden planting edible plants and flowers that you take home. Class begins at 2pm • 14 – Airfield’s Spring Club Release Party • 28 – Airfield’s Runway Summer Nights Music 4-7 PM • TBD – Coyote Canyon 10 year anniversary party.

Please call or check individual web sites for more spring events.