Wine Press Northwest Spring 2017

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2nd Annual Public Wine Tasting & Awards Presentation 2017 JUDGES: Gregg McConnell, Wine Press Northwest April Reddout, Walter Clore Center Kristine Bono, Goose Ridge Winery

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Spring 2017

WINE PRESS NORTHWEST I N T H I S I S S UE

6 The Wine Knows

Bright time ahead for Washington wine 8 Swirl, Sniff & Sip

Malbec: A wine elevated by the Northwest 10 A Distant Perspective Winery of the Year p12

His Malbec is good but give me his Syrah

12 Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

Trappist Abbey p40

Our 2017 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year

20 Regional Wineries of the Year 40 Trappist Abbey ‘holy’ devoted to prized Willamette valley wines 44 Oregon wine symposium recognizes leaders 46 Randolph Cellars, a Snohomish father-son project 48 Malbec a rising NW star 58 Myles Anderson sells his share of Walla Walla Vintners 62 Northwest Wine Events 70 Match Makers

LuLu Craft Bar + Kitchen keeps it in the family with estate ingredients

78 Grapes of Roth ​‘Wood for Dummies’

Match Makers p70

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Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Editor and Publisher: Gregg McConnell 509-582-1443 gmcconnell@winepressnw.com Contributor: Eric Degerman Contributor: Viki Eierdam Contributor: Andy Perdue Contributor: Dan Radil Tasting panel: Eric Degerman, Richard Larsen, Gregg McConnell, Andy Perdue, Mike Rader, April Reddout, Ken Robertson, Hank Sauer, Brad Smith.

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COLUMN

the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

Bright times ahead for Washington wine

A

century ago, William Bridgman planted grapevines in the Yakima Valley. He wanted to prove Eastern Washington’s climate could grow classic European grapes.

Some of those original vines are still alive and even producing wine.

A half-century after those first plantings, Bridgman sold the land to the founders of Associated Vintners. They planted Cabernet Sauvignon in 1962, and those vines are producing some of the best wine in the state.

The lessons here are that not only can we learn from our history, but also that we have something to be proud of.

The Washington wine industry has reached a maturity point – both in the United States and on the world wine stage – that we don’t have to be ashamed of what is being accomplished. We are at a level of acreage and production that we are a player, a region that can no longer be ignored.

Because of our state’s climate and maturity, our winemakers are crafting some exciting wines that are sought around the world.

We have a regional power in Ste. Michelle Wine Estates that continues to carry the message of Washington wine to markets across the continent and around the globe.

Just as it has done since the repeal of Prohibition, the company is introducing the magic of Washington wines to consumers every day, busting barriers that have been erected to keep emerging markets out.

Everyone on the East Coast might even know by now which side of the Potomac our vines are on now.

Instead of looking like the Wild West of winemaking, wine producers in California and beyond our looking our way as an opportunity. The most expensive vineyard land in Washington looks like a great bargain – and with plentiful water! – compared with places in Napa Valley.

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Last fall, California crushed in excess of 4 million tons of grapes. Washington was a distant No. 2 in the country even with a record crop of 300,000 tons. But there is a subtle shift going on that is altering the balance of power in American wine production.

Our tastes are changing to better wines. As a result, hundreds of acres of high-production vineyards are being pulled out in California's Central Valley and replanted to nut crops, particularly almonds. At the same time, Ste. Michelle is having its growers continue to add hundreds of acres each season as there are more retail pipelines to fill with delicious and inexpensive Washington wines.

The Horse Heaven Hills has increased its acreage to nearly 15,000 acres of vines, with Cabernet Sauvignon leading the way with nearly 6,700 acres of vines. The winemakers at Ste. Michelle love the Cab grapes they get from the Horse Heaven Hills – and they can't get enough of it. Almost all the new planting is being done on behalf of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

Although not as dramatically, we are seeing similar growth on the Wahluke Slope. Anybody who has driven past Red Mountain recently will have noticed it is now nearly covered with vines.

Viticulturists are finding new places to plant. Last year, I toured a new 1,000-acre vineyard near the Yakima River that is destined to add 300,000 cases of new Washington wine, probably in the next three years.

Since the 2007 harvest a decade ago, the Washington wine industry has more than doubled in size. The folks at Ste. Michelle – the company driving the growth — believe it can double again in another decade. If their predictions of 200,000 acres of vineyards in the Columbia Valley hold true and California's industry continues to contract, there could be a subtle shift in power in the American wine industry.

There is lots of room, and water for new, well-managed growth.

Three decades ago, the vast majority of Washington wines were sold right here in the Pacific Northwest. Now the vast majority of our wine is sold outside of our region. That is a dramatic shift in the sales footprint. It's a good sign that the American consumer enjoys the value and quality of a $25 bottle of Washington Cab over a $100 bottle of North Bay wine.

So what’s in it for us? The unintended benefits of a maturing wine industry are vast.

The state will attract more investment and, more importantly, more tourism. More tourism brings more jobs to wine country. More people will want to visit our winemaking regions, and happily spend their money in our communities. This will naturally raise our quality of life with better restaurants, lodging and other amenities. In that environment, entrepreneurs will thrive.

One peculiarity of the Washington wine industry is its in-market market share. For every 100 bottles of wine sold inside our state's borders, only 25 are made here. That is poor support for the home team. And that is something we can do something about. Instead of a bottle of red from Paso or Lodi, pick a bottle of Washington Syrah or Merlot instead.

It’s better for wine industry, it's better for our state's bottom line. And the wine will probably taste better, too. is the editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. He’s also the wine columnist for the Seattle Times.

ANDY PERDUE

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COLUMN

swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Malbec: A wine elevated by the Northwest

D

rop back a decade in the history of Northwest wine, and you’ll be hard pressed to find Malbec among our young region’s top wines. For Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 Platinum Judging, only two shouldered their way into the top tier of award winners, out of 85 wines that won Double Platinum or Platinum awards. Both were from the 2007 vintage.

When most folks in our region talked about Malbec, which was seldom, it was to note that it was getting planted, had done well in Argentina and that its stronghold in France was centered in Cahors and the Loire region. Comb through the index to the 2005 edition of The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, and you won’t find a single mention of any Northwest state or province under the Malbec entry.

One reason for that: Malbec does not even show up on surveys of Washington grape plantings until 1999, when 50 acres were recorded. Even by 2011, there were only 378 acres, with a yield of 1,300 tons. By 2015, the latest numbers available, that had jumped to 2,400 tons. I could not find a more recent acreage total, but if 2011 yields are typical, the the 2,400 tons harvested in 2015 would indicate the state has about 700 acres of Malbec.

Whatever the exact numbers, Malbec is playing a much larger role in our region.

When the 2016 Platinum Judging was conducted last fall, 31 of the 530 entries were gold-medal-winning Malbecs. That’s behind Cabernet Sauvignon, with 59; Syrah, with 48; and Merlot, with 39. But it’s ahead of Oregon’s premier red wine grape, Pinot Noir, with 29, and both of the top white wines, Riesling, with 26, and Chardonnay, with 21.

When the judges had stopped sniffing, swirling and sipping, they awarded 44 Double Platinums and 125 Platinums. Among them were two Double Platinum Malbecs and 12 Platinum Malbecs.

The Platinum winners were made mostly in Washington, but Idaho (with a Malbec made from grapes grown in Washington’s 8

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Rattlesnake Hills), Oregon and British Columbia also were represented. Their AVAs of origin in Washington included Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, Wahluke Slope, Walla Walla Valley, Lake Chelan, Rattlesnake Hills and the Horse Heaven Hills. B.C.’s Okanagan and Oregon’s Umpqua Valley each had one Platinum winner.

Thus Malbec, in roughly a decade’s time, has proved itself to be hardy in a broad array of climates and, in the hands of a skilled winemaker, capable of producing top-flight wines.

That versatility has not gone unnoticed.

When Wine Press Northwest conducted a tasting of Northwest Malbecs in late January, 101 wines were entered from across the Northwest’s grape-growing areas, with vintages ranging from 2009-2015.

The results: 6 were awarded Double Gold medals, 22 Gold medals. Those top 28 wines again came from a broad array of our region’s AVAs, from Southern Oregon to Lake Chelan, from the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley in Idaho to the Umpqua Valley in Oregon.

Again, many of the grapes that went into the winners came from AVAs that fall within 75 miles of the Tri-Cities, which is arguably the center for the region that grows Washington’s greatest wine grapes.

In both the 2016 Platinum and in the 2017 Malbec tasting, I served as a panel moderator, which allowed me to hear and take notes on the observations of an array of judges who ranged from a couple who have judged internationally for decades, to academics involved in two of the region’s top postsecondary programs for viticulturists and winemakers and to Northwesterners who work every day within the industry.

As a group, they came away from these tastings impressed by the varying styles winemakers had crafted from our region’s grapes, from lighter and softer, easy-drinking reds to hefty, dark purple, complex and substantial wines. And many of them are pretty affordable, starting at about $16, with several of the best-rated wines priced right around $20.

And yes, you can spend $60 on a Malbec, but that’s the top price in the field of 102.

That $60 price tag is admittedly more than most of us want to spend, even on a fine red wine, but when compared with the most expensive Cabernets and red blends, which can cost more than $100, it makes that Malbec seem a bit more affordable.

Wine words: Franciacorta The sparkling wines of France, Spain and Italy are a staple on the shelves of most of our Northwest wine shops and liquor stores.

Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, Moscato and Asti Spumanti all are easy to find.

Franciacorta, a grape-growing and winemaking region in Northern Italy in the province of Brescia, not so much, even though it’s been officially recognized for 50 years now after being officially recognized as a DOC (Denominazione di origine controllata) — the equivalent of our AVA — and has been producing sparkling wines ever since. Starting with a modest 250 cases of sparkling wine back in 1961, the region has since focused its efforts on sparkling wines made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Noir) and Pinot Bianco (Blanc), with Pinot Grigio having fallen out of use in its sparkling wines.

And although the region has been known for its wines for about 2,000 years, with both Virgil and Pliny the Elder mentioning them, its current traditions began to evolve about the same time the Northwest began to reestablish our wine industry.

Production now appears to be about 600,000 cases, which is why it’s not common in the U.S. Prices, however, tend to run well below French Champagnes of equivalent quality, starting out around $20. My first encounter with Franciacorta sparklers came last fall during a trip to Italy. The quality of that inexpensive example was impressive.

Many Northwest sparkling wines of equivalent quality sell for similar prices and sometimes less, but it still was well worth trying. the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

KEN ROBERTSON,

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COLUMN

a distant perspective

His Malbec is good but give me his Syrah

T

here are numerous ways to gain the knowledge base to create a world-class winery, and one of them is to start with a template, a formula that has already been established, and build from there.

In this way, others have already done most of the heavy lifting.

For many wealthy individuals, this has taken the form of moving into a place like the esteemed Napa Valley and paying the freight, which can be substantial, and focusing on Cabernet Sauvignon, which long ago proved itself, and which, from Napa, has continued to be the gold-plated passport to the lifestyle that, to some people, is more important than mammon itself.

What’s curious about this is that the quality of the wine need not always be of the highest, but the price charged for the wine is a sign of quality, even if reality is akin to the emperor’s first-hand duds.

Of the several other ways to create a worldclass winery, the most difficult is to research every last detail of where great potential lies, and then do additional research on how to make use of the fact that no template exists.

Moving onto a blank canvas may be effective, but it is not only risky; it is also amazingly time-consuming, and can prove extremely frustrating since all you have to go on is the homework you have done, and the fact that the research material you are using is not really “evidence” as much as conclusions from other free-thinkers who have a vision not based entirely on science.

Stephen and Gloria Reustle discovered the then-unknown Umpqua Valley in Southern Oregon nearly 20 years ago at a time when there were fewer than 10 wineries in the area, and before the region was known for which grape varieties did best in the local soils.

A number of good-sized grape-growing operations had already established there, but the main varieties they grew were those already in demand, such as Oregon’s calling card -Pinot Noir. So blank was the Umpqua template that some excellent grapes had never been planted locally.

And the only way to determine if such varieties had potential here was to see if they had the genetic propensity to do so properly 10

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based upon the kinds of soils and climates and sub regions for which growers could gain the data.

To start this adventure, Stephen began to do various sorts of detailed research on the area, starting with soil and weather analyses. This took well over a year of tedious, mundane work that called for as much intuition as scientific evidence. Then came research on clones, rootstocks, and other esoterica that only a scientist would appreciate.

Occasionally an outlier would appear.

For instance, among the findings Stephen came up with was that this region displayed perhaps the potential for making a world-class Grüner Veltliner.

This was a fascinating if completely obscure finding.

For one thing, almost no one in the United States had any interest in this Austrian grape, which was just beginning to be imported, with all the fanfare of toenail fungus. Even if it turned out to be world-class, would anyone buy it?

Steven tried this variety, liked it, and saw it as a compliment to another white wine that showed potential here, Riesling. So he planted some of this grape and hoped for the best.

He also viewed Syrah most favorably for this region, seeing his cool climate as having the potential to possibly make a peppery version of Syrah.

What he did not realize, when the grapes were being put in the ground, was that the Umpqua was a special spot that allowed for a distinctiveness of character for numerous grapes, many of which would display this cool climate charm in more characterful ways than even the famed Willamette Valley could.

And one great benefit for the Reustles is that this region’s land costs were a fraction of those to the north, which allowed them to experiment with grapes economically enough to do something that no Willamette Valley grower could afford: test theories.

Perhaps the best example of this is in Reustle Prayer Rock Malbec, a variety that Argentina has made as its major contribution to the world red wine scene.

As an investigator of many grape varieties, Steve had tasted a number of examples of

BY DAN BERGER

Malbec grown in warmer regions and concluded that the variety could be made just as concentrated and as potent a wine even if grown in a climate as cool as his.

But would the wine find favor with Americans? Would the consumer understand a cooler-climate Malbec when the vast majority of Malbecs that were already on the shelf showed such density?

I tasted some of Stephen’s first Malbecs and found them to be a bit too similar to some of those already on the shelf. It wasn’t until the decade 2000 to 2009 (perhaps allowing for vine age to kick in) that this grape variety began to show the personality that it does today.

One thing about Malbec that appears to be a truism is that as a young wine it can be remarkably boring, and that decanting it and even waiting a year or two after release benefits its varietal expression.

Reustle Prayer Rock Malbec seems to fit this mold rather neatly, from a cooler climate perspective. Aeration gives it a faintly earthy, olive-pepper quality, and its substantial tannins need the air to soften a bit.

Unlike how the grape is sort of brutish in France as Cahors, this version is actually somewhat graceful, although it may be thought of more along the lines of a Petite Sirah.

Which grape variety does the best for Steven and Gloria?

That debate could take hours, since everything at this property has won a gold medal at some competition or another.

If I had to choose, however, I would vote for Steve’s Syrah, since the expression of coolclimate fruit (white pepper) comes as close to the classic northern Victoria in Australia or Côte Rôtie in the Rhône, and rivals New Zealand’s Martinborough for most distinctiveness in the world of Syrah.

And as a concluding point, Reustle Prayer Rock Grüner Veltliner is among the world’s finest from this grape, validating all that homework and intuition.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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FEATURE

winer y of the year

Courtesy Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

R EU S T LE P RAYE R ROC K VINEYARD S PACIFIC NORTHWEST

BY ANDY PERDUE

R

OSEBURG, Ore. — If Stephen Reustle hadn't gone out for a jog one day, all of us would have been denied the opportunity to taste some of the best wines ever produced in the Pacific Northwest.

Reustle, owner and winemaker for ReustlePrayer Rock Vineyards in Southern Oregon's Umpqua Valley, was a CPA looking to make a career change. One day, he was checking out a 12

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Winery of the Year

property in Oregon when he decided to go for a jog.

What he saw caused him to call his wife, Gloria, leading to the decision to make their home near Roseburg. Here he would go on to craft some of the finest wines anywhere.

In the past few vintages, it has become increasingly apparent that Reustle is simply making the best wines in the Northwest –

and in some cases, the world.

For example: • His Reserve Syrah won double gold at the American Fine Wine Competition in January. That’s the 53rd time one of his Syrahs has scored gold or better at a major competition.

• He won five double gold medals in January's San Francisco Chronicle Wine CompeW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y of the year FEATURE tition. It's the largest judging of American wines in the world.

• In December, he combined for 10 Platinum and Double Platinum awards from Wine Press Northwest in its annual Best of the Best competition.

• In spring 2016, he won best dessert wine at the Dan Berger International Wine Competition in California.

• He won five gold medals or better at last year's Savor NW competition in Oregon.

• Most impressively of all, he won Best New World Syrah at the 2015 Six Nations Wine Challenge, beating out stellar Syrahs from California and Australia.

Since launching his winery in 2004, Reustle has steadily proven he can excel with seemingly any variety. He now stands amid an elite group of winemakers who are the best in the country.

For these and many other reasons, Wine Press Northwest is naming Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards its 2017 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.

Reustle was born and raised in Philadelphia. After graduating from Rutgers University, he lived an hour’s drive outside of Manhattan, where he spent many years as a certified public accountant and later as owner of a marketing company. When he decided to leave the East Coast rat race, he was far too young to retire, so he and Gloria decided to see what their second act in life would be.

Reustle always loved wine, in particular the Riojas of Spain, an approachable Tempranillo-based red wine.

“That was the only wine I could afford in my 20s,” he said. “I could afford great Tempranillos for $6 or $7.”

Unsure where life would lead them, the couple moved to California, where Reustle studied winemaking and began trying to figure out where he would land.

“My wife gave me permission to start a whole new career,” he said. “I always loved farming, so she agreed to us coming out to California, and we lived there for one year.”

Reustle is a studious guy, and he set out to investigate the best places to plant a vineyard where he could accomplish what he wanted.

His search stretched from Temecula in Southern California’s Riverside County all the way to Walla Walla, Wash.

Reustle was committed to cool-climate viticulture and winemaking.

“If you get your site planted properly with W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Noir are among the award-winning wines produced by Reustle.

Anne Blodgett Anne Blodgett Photography

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FEATURE

winer y of the year

Stephen and Gloria Reustle and associate winemaker Wade Smith at the rock that inspired the winery’s name.

the right varieties in the right place, and you do proper hygiene in the winery, then you'll make very good wine,” he said.

Sounds simple enough.

He nearly purchased 200 acres in the Anderson Valley, a gorgeous wine-producing region in Mendocino County just north of Sonoma County. But his due diligence behooved a visit to Oregon, so he checked out the Umpqua Valley. Then he went for the run that changed his life.

“I was jogging by a stream, and as I was 14

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

jogging, I saw a mom and a dad playing with their kids and laughing and having a good time,” he said. “As I’m running, I’m saying, ‘This is a really great place to raise a family.’ I went about 100 yards and saw a really old man and a really old woman sitting on a bench looking at the Umpqua River, holding each other’s hands, and I said, ‘This is a really great place to grow old.’ I ran back to the hotel, I called my wife, who was in California, and I said, ‘Honey, I think we gotta do this.’ “ In 2001, they bought 200 acres in the

Anne Blodgett Anne Blodgett Photography

Umpqua Valley and began to plant grapes, much of it on 14 acres of hillsides.

Reustle and his family are devoutly and proudly Christian. At the top of his vineyard is a rock about the size of a Volkswagen Beetle. When Reustle began planting his vineyard, he would take his young son, Walter, then 4, with him to the top of the vineyard.

“I used to put him up on the rock and we'd look at this vista and I would say, 'Walter, Daddy's going to pray.’ Then I’d say, ‘It’s your turn to pray.’

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y of the year FEATURE

Concerts attract hundreds to the pavillion on the grounds at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards.

“One day, I came up to the rock and rather than stop and pray, I turned around to walk back, and he grabbed me by the arm– and he has these big, brown eyes - and he says, ‘Daddy, we didn’t pray at the rock.’ As soon as he said that, I said, ‘Prayer Rock.’ So we named the winery Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyard.”

Early on, Reustle turned to Southern Oregon University climatologist Greg Jones, who now is one of the wine world’s leading climate researchers.

“I had him come out and do a climatology study on my site and show me what the heat W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

units were,” Reustle said. “He got me intrigued by an Australian author, Dr. Gladstone, who wrote a book called Viticulture and the Environment. I just have read through that five times. It's so rich in giving you information on what to plant on your site.

“It was very important for me to plant the right vines on the right rootstock in the right place on our particular site,” he added. “So we took our time and planted a variety of grape varieties.”

In fact, Reustle used various resources to figure out what to plant on every slope of his

Courtesy Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

estate. The results: beautiful fruit and beautiful wines.

One of Reustle’s most famous wines is Syrah, of which he makes no fewer than three styles.

“I really thought it was going to be all about Pinot Noir because I’m passionate about Pinot Noir,” he said with an easy laugh.

“I did some studies on what clones work well in the northern Rhône Valley. I planted four clones of Syrah and what I wasn't afraid to do was pick early, when the acids are still there and you develop those cracked black pepper S p r i n g 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

winer y of the year

The barrel room at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley.

H OW T HE PAC IF I C N O RT H W E ST W IN E RY O F T HE Y E A R I S C H O S E N The Winery of the Year is selected based on longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations. A winery may win the award once.

Past Pacific Northwest Wineries of the Year 2016: Walla Walla Vintners, Walla Walla, Wash.

2015: Maryhill Winery, Goldendale, Wash.

2014: Stoller Family Estate, Dayton, Ore. 2013: Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, Wash.

2012: Thurston Wolfe, Prosser, Wash.

2011: Zerba Cellars, Milton-Freewater, Ore. 2010: Vin du Lac, Chelan, Wash.

2009: Wild Goose Vineyards, Okanagan Falls, B.C. 2008: Dunham Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.

2007: Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston, Ore. 2006: Barnard Griffin: Richland, Wash.

2005: Ken Wright Cellars: Carlton, Ore. 2004: L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash.

2003: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. 2002: Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash.

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Richard Duval Richard Duvall Images

components.

“Whereas Australian Syrahs and some California Syrahs tend to be that big, rich, jammy, over-alcoholic Syrah, I wanted more of a French/Rhône style,” Reustle continued.

“We’re in a cool climate, and I think with our warm days and cool nights, we can retain that acidity and make wonderful wines. So the cracked black pepper component stayed, and you get the gaminess to it that makes it really nice."

In his wildest dreams, Reustle never figured to become the American king of Grüner Veltliner, the famous Austrian white wine.

But he planted the first Grüner in the United States and now makes four separate bottlings each year - and is considering a sparkling.

That all started on a motorcycle trip through Austria a few years ago. He was at a high-end restaurant and asked the waiter to select a great white and a great red.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y of the year FEATURE “He brought me a Grüner and a Blaüfrankisch (Lemberger),” Reustle said. “I tried the Grüner, and I was blown away. When I got back to the United States, I looked to see who was making Grüner, and it was nobody.

So we planted it in 2003.”

Reustle likens Grüner to Riesling in that it lends itself stylistically to being either bone dry, a little off-dry or even sparkling. It’s a flexible grape. So he decided to make four styles. The first is a lean, traditional style he refers to as his “Estate Grüner.” The second is a reserve that has a trace of residual sugar to give it fullness. His third, Smaragd, is made in the style of the highest designation in Austria. His fourth style will be released in 2018 and will be called Dolium. It was made in a concrete tank.

“I can tell you it’s going to knock your socks off,” he said enthusiastically.

A sparkling Grüner? He’s tracked down a version being made in Michigan that he hopes to one day emulate.

Reustle has gotten back around to producing a couple of styles of Pinot Noir - his first love that brought him to Oregon some 15 years ago. He said growing Pinot Noir in the Umpqua Valley is not all that unusual.

“I think it’s a mistake for people to think about the Umpqua Valley as being a warm region,” Reustle said. “It really isn’t. Terry Brandborg is making some great cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Gewürztraminers. The Umpqua Valley is really divided into three areas: You have that hot area where Earl ( Jones of Abacela) is. We’re in the mid-part, and Terry (Brandborg) is in the north toward the coast. I think the Umpqua makes wonderful Pinot Noirs. You have to be on the right site.”

Based on all the awards and accolades Reustle has earned since his first vintage more than 15 years ago, it’s safe to say he made the right decision to come to Oregon. And it’s all to our benefit.

ANDY PERDUE ie

editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company and is the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

··· Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards

Stephen Reustle loves motorcycles. It was on a motorcycle trip through Austria he became interested in making Grüner.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Open 10 a.m. 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

960 Cal Henry Road Roseburg, OR 97471 541-459-6060 www.reustlevineyards.com

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

FEATURE

winer y of the year

C RO S S ING S WINE R Y IDAHO

Winery of the ID Year

Crossing Winery’s general manager and part owner, Douglas Jones, right, with winemaker Neil Glancey, in the barrel room.

Phylicia Stitzel Courtesy Crossings Winery

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

G

LENNS FERRY, Idaho — It was a record performance for Idaho at last year’s Best of the Best competition as Gem State producers combined to win 11 Platinum medals during Wine Press Northwest’s 17th annual judging.

Crossings Winery chipped in with two of those Platinums, both for bold reds, which proves that it deserves to be considered among the Northwest’s most delicious destination wineries. Where else can you play golf, go fishing, taste acclaimed wines and spend 20

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

the night?

Their slogan at Crossings is “Wine, Dine and Nine.” And now winemaker Neil Glancey and owner/GM Douglas Jones can add the title of Idaho Winery of the Year.

“We’re the only winery in Idaho with a golf course, the only one with a restaurant open every day, the only one with a bar, the only one with an RV park,” Jones said. “There are a couple wineries that operate a B&B, but we have individual cabins for people to stay in.”

Crossings, founded in 1985, is the third

oldest in Idaho, and their Tannins Restaurant helps show their community what it means to live in wine country.

“I’ve been told, ‘If a guy is taking their date to Crossings, they are trying to impress you,’ ” Glancey said. “Even the Mormons will come out and eat at our restaurant. It’s that nice.”

Production at the Crossings is headed toward 5,000 cases, and they are bullish on Cabernet Franc and Lemberger, the two grapes that earned Platinums in 2016.

Last year merely burnished Glancey’s repuW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Idaho Winery of the Year, Crossings Winery

tation with Cabernet Franc. His 2012 vintage for Crossings earned a Platinum after gaining entry by winning a gold medal at the Idaho Wine Competition. Five years earlier, Glancey used a Cab Franc he made for now-defunct Woodriver Cellars to win best of red wine at the 2011 Idaho Wine Competition.

At Crossings, he found success with the grape in nearby Zabala Vineyard.

“We’re lucky in the Hagerman Valley because in addition to the volcanic soils, we also have natural spring water that is some of the puriest people have ever seen,” Glancey said.

“It adds minerality to the wine.”

There’s also Lemberger, aka Blaufränkish, however Jones developed a proprietary name — Bleu Noir — to boost sales of his wine made with the winter-hardy Central European red grape.

“It’s one of the earliest ripening reds in Idaho because of the heat units we get,” Jones aid. “While it makes a great wine, you have to put a bag over the bottle to get people to try it. Blaufränkish sounds like something you go to the doctor to get rid of.”

So while Jones has trademarked the name, he has given permission for anyone bottling Lemberger to use Bleu Noir on their label.

“If we could get five or six wineries to use Bleu Noir, then we could ask the federal government to recognize it as an alternative name for that grape,” Jones said.

They enjoyed immediate success with the new name, which fits with the feel Jones hopes to create at Crossings.

“We are definitely not a snobbish winery,” he said. “People have been making wine for thousands of years, and most of them didn’t even have a high school degree. We’re a winery that’s an hour east of Boise, Idaho, so there’s not a lot of room for snobbishness here.”

The critical acclaim for Glancey’s wines continues to help the winery make a name for W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Phylicia Stitzel Courtesy Crossings Winery

itself since its rebranding from Carmela Vineyards, named for the wife of the founder. And Crossings carries significant historical importance.

In 1869, Gustavus Glenn established a ferry crossing to offer passage over the Snake River for those traveling the Oregon Trail. Until his ferry, Three Island Crossing, now a state park, earned its reputation as the most deadly river crossing on the Oregon Trail. Ruts from wagon wheels remain visible from nearby Crossings Winery, and in those summers when the Snake River is not running dangerously high, there are reenactments of the crossing.

Crossings offers a dozen wines. The lineup includes a Port-style called Passport, a 10-year-old solera project that won a gold medal at the 2016 San Francisco International Wine Competition, a Syrah that received a double gold at the 2016 Seattle Wine Awards, and a deliciously dry sparkler from estate Riesling.

“I’ve made sparkling wines for years,” Glancey said. “I started at Lakeridge Winery in Florida, and we’d make 1,200 cases a year traditional methode Champenoise. That was a bigger place — 55,000 cases a year — so it was a great place to learn.”

Glancey, a graduate of Boise High and Boise State, left Florida’s largest winery in 2001 and returned to Idaho to take over at Carmela. After stints at Sawtooth and Woodriver, he was recruited back to Glenns Ferry in 2012 by Douglas’ father, Roger, who died before the 2013 harvest.

The recent success at Crossings by Glancey and Jones with locally grown grapes proves the potential of the Hagerman Valley, a region that rarely suffers from the deep cold snaps that recently have plagued other areas of the Snake River Valley. While the 2015 harvest was well down for some downriver, Glancey said his growers were not affected.

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“We got some Syrah from a local vineyard that pours like maple syrup,” Jones said. “It’s really rich and really intense.”

Jones believes the Hagerman Valley may warrant its own American Viticultural Area.

It would be the second sub-AVA within the Snake River Valley.

“The guys who grow around here for us could put in alfalfa and make more money,” Jones said, “but they want to work with us and help develop the wine industry down here.”

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FEATURE

winer y to watch

S C ORIA

v iney a rds & winer y IDAHO

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

C

ALDWELL, Idaho — Sydney Nederend, who gradated with a degree in finance, has no problem getting her hands dirty in her tender young vineyard in the Snake River Valley.

She digs working with two of the Pacific

Winery to ID Watch Northwest’s top winemakers on the wines for her Scoria Vineyards and Winery brand, and she and her husband already are enjoying some of her success as a winery owner.

“The Orchard House has our 2013 Syrah by the glass,” Nederend said of the Sunnys-

The 2016 harvest will provide the fruit for the firest Scoria estate wines produced by young winemaker Sydney Nederend.

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lope restaurant. “James and I dropped off a case of it and had dinner there. It was the first time we’d ordered a glass of our own wine. I had the Chicken Caesar Salad and glass of the ’13 Syrah. It was really cool.”

Scoria’s initial releases are products of the

Eric Degerman Great Northwest Wine W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y to watch FEATURE 2013 vintage, and both wines were made by Earl Sullivan of Telaya Wine Co., near Boise.

They pulled the Syrah pulled from Sawtooth and Skyline vineyards, and it received lofty praise from critics. The three-barrel lot has allowed her to create a mailing list and begin building a wine club. Sullivan also made the Nederends a delicious barrel of Mourvèdre from Sawtooth. Both bottlings amounted to a mere 97 cases.

Over time, the focus of Scoria will be on estate wines made with four classic Bordeaux varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. They are grown on land that’s been in her family for generations and offers a stunning panoramic of the Snake River and the jagged Owyhee Mountains.

Scoria Vineyards sit at 2,600 feet elevation between Lizard Butte and Lake Lowell.

By design, Greg Koenig of nearby Koenig Vineyards and Sullivan each bring different techniques and approaches to Scoria. The 2016 wines in barrel will serve as distinctive examples, as they are developing productions of 100 percent Malbec and 100 percent Petit Verdot. Her goal is to provide an educational experience for consumers.

“Telaya’s version for me is in French oak, and what I’m making with Koenig is going to be in American,” Nederend said. “And the fruit that was picked for Telaya was picked about 2 1⁄2 weeks earlier than the fruit that’s being picked with Koenig, so there are going to be some major differences.”

As the production of her vines increase, so will the grapes going to Koenig, Telaya and Scoria.

“Once I established the relationships with Koenig and Telaya, they were interested in my fruit so I’m going to be working exclusively with them for where my fruit goes,” Nederend said. “Half of it goes to Koenig, and then at Telaya, half of it is used for their wine and half of it is for me.”

In 2014, Nederend established Scoria by planting 6 acres of Malbec and 2 acres of Petit Verdot. In 2015, the shortage of vine material throughout the Northwest stalled

her expansion, but last year, she added 9 acres, an equal split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. She has chosen to stay away from two late-ripening Bordeaux varieties - Cabernet Franc and Carmenere, grapes known for some herbaceous qualities.

“The entire site is 250 acres, with 200 of it perfect for red wine grapes,” Nederend said.

“I’d like to reach about 100 acres by 2022. We do have other property that definitely would be suitable for some whites, but there’s a larger demand for high-quality reds right now.”

Nederend, 24, a Boise State grad, tends the vines with a crew of her family’s workers.

Sometimes, that includes her mother, Kristen Pentz-Weitz. The Weitz family (pronounced wheats) has farmed the Snake River Valley for nearly a century, arriving from Los Angeles to plant orchards. One of the state’s leading mint oil producers, they’ve grown their holdings to 3,000 acres, and winemakers in the region say the family is a sure bet to succeed as grape growers. They already own heavy equipment and have an experienced workforce at their disposal. The biggest hurdle Idaho winemakers face each year is access to enough quality grapes in their state.

“As the orchards came out, our family tried row crops here — including potatoes — but the soil was too sandy and there was enough slope that it wasn’t ideal for row crops,” Nederend said. “It was used as pasture for quite a while and just sitting there, but I could see the potential for wine grapes.”

At this point, hers is the definition of a boutique winery focused on young estate grapes. It’s one of the more fascinating plantings in Idaho as its roots will reach into soil filled with volcanic cinder and scoria rock.

This year is when Nederend begins to fully open up the door to her industrial-chic tasting room near her home and flips the switch on her large eclectic dome light. She will be offering a combined 500 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Chardonnay and Riesling from Sawtooth, Skyline and Williamson.

“In 2016, we started using only our own fruit, which was awesome,” she said. “We had 9 acres in production for that vintage.”

Sadly, the stretch of days at sub-zero temperature appears as if it will decimate her young vineyard.

“Oh my gosh, it was the worst winter in 80 years,” she said. “In Huston, it got down to minus 23. Ours was only down to minus 12.6.

Welcome to the fruit business.

“Luckily we have a good site that’s one of the warmer sites, but it’s looking like 50 percent of a crop would be our best case scenario. A lot of other vineyards are looking at 90 to 100 percent loss.”

She’s facing the reality of cutting vines back to the ground and promoting root development.

“I’m surprised my dad wasn’t more upset, but we’ve been through some tough years before with our businesses,” she said. ”It’s definitely a bummer, but there’s no sense in getting too upset about it. There’s just nothing you can do.”

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

···

Scoria Vineyards & Winery

Open by appointment only April through November 12639 Walker Lake Road Caldwell, ID 83607 scoriavineyards.com (208) 550-2472

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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winer y of the year FEATURE

DAN CIN V i ne y a rd s OR

OREGON

Winery of the Year

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

M

EDFORD, Ore. — Dan Marca freely admits he’s a Type A personality from New Jersey, yet when paired with his SoCal wife, Cindy, they help create a remarkable wine and food experience at DANCIN Vineyards near the historic town of Jacksonville.

“She’s a Type C,” Dan said. “We’re polaropposites, and we do things differently. I’m the detail guy in all aspects, and Cindy is extremely warm and kind and disarming. She balances it all out.”

Dan’s precision plays an important role in the winery and behind the bar, “I serve in the tasting room 99 percent of the time,” but he’s not one to stand still and gaze at the growing number of gold medals hanging from his bottles of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Barbera. In the past year, DANCIN Vineyards amassed so much hardware across several varieties – including Syrah – that it earned the award as 2017 Oregon Winery of the Year.

“When you look at DANCIN Vineyards, our goal is that we can provide a cross-section of Burgundy and Italy,” he said.

Yet despite another year filled with success, Marca saw an opportunity to take another step with his five-year-old brand. He signed Bryan Wilson, perhaps Oregon’s most underrated winemaker, to join him at DANCIN Vineyards.

“We’re very pleased to welcome Bryan to the DANCIN family,” Marca said. “With three decades of winemaking experience – much of it spent crafting Pinot Noir and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Dan and Cindy Marca own and operate DANCIN Vineyards in Medford, Ore., just outside of historic Jacksonville.

David Gibb Photography & Design Courtesy of DANCIN Vineyards S p r i n g 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

winer y of the year

Chardonnay, among many other varieties – Bryan appreciates, respects and embraces our commitment to every detail of production.”

He replaces Brian Denner, who added some impressive work to his résumé under Marca’s employ. Last year, the DANCIN Vineyards 2014 Trata Estate Pinot Noir opened the competition season with a double gold at the San Francisco Chronicle then followed that up with a gold at the Great Northwest Invitational a few weeks before earning a Wine Press Northwest Platinum.

The 2014 Elevé Pinot Noir earned a double gold at the Cascadia Wine Competition and a gold at the Great Northwest Invitational. This winter, DANCIN was invited to pour at the Oregon Chardonnay Celebration for the third straight year.

Wilson’s history, after graduating from the University of Oregon in 1980, includes Chateau Souverain and Benzinger in Sonoma and Napa Valley icon Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

His love for steelhead fishing hooked him on life in Southern Oregon after working at Silvan Ridge/Hinman Vineyards in Eugene.

He migrated south to Del Rio Vineyards before landing at Foris, one of Oregon’s oldest properties, in 2008. Wilson recently has generated headlines for Pebblestone Cellars with Viognier.

His own Cuckoo’s Nest brand shined last year, earning a gold for Pinot Gris at the 2016 San Francisco Chronicle and three golds at the Oregon Wine Competition. ···

DANCIN Vineyards

4477 South Stage Road, Medford, OR 97501, dancinvineyards.com (541) 245-1133

And 2017 started off strong for DANCIN. It achieved gold at the Chronicle with three varieties — the 2014 Danseur Syrah, 2014 Septette Pinot Noir and 2014 Tribute Riserva Barbera. Each was a product of Denner’s first vintages for Dan and Cindy — DanCin. The winemaking change raises eyebrows.

Marca hired Denner three years after a Syrah he made for his parents’ Denner Vineyards brand in Paso Robles reached No. 11 on Wine Spectator’s top 100 list.

“Brian Denner is a good winemaker,” Marca said. “We don’t want it to appear that he isn’t.

“The three of us were actually together in the tasting room last week, enjoying freshly baked focaccia made with Pinot Noir lees and local flour, while carefully evaluating Chardonnay blends for 2016,” Marca added.

One key to DANCIN’s growth has been the Marcas’ 27 acres of Burgundy varieties near South Stage Road. There are seven clones of Pinot Noir and four clones of Chardonnay. The shaded aspect to their site, along with an elevation range of 1,500 to 1,700 feet, benefits the vines in the summer during hottest points of the day. Marca also buys from the Dundee Hills, McMinnville and Newberg, which has led to 15 bottlings of Pinot Noir some years. They also produce five styles of Chardonnay. In Southern Oregon, where Tempranillo is taking root, DANCIN is different.

“We will be increasing our Chardonnay production dramatically,” Marca said. “We’ve been sold out for three months.”

However, neither their award-winning Barbera nor popular Italian-style red blend are made from estate fruit. Those hail from Celestina Vineyard six miles away and friend John Pratt, the Oregon Wine Board’s treasurer.

“We’ve proved to ourselves that we can’t ripen those Italian varieties on this site, and if we could, then we probably shouldn’t be growing Pinot Noir here,” Marca said.

Production for DANCIN in 2017 will ramp up to 4,000 cases. Wilson takes his Cuckoo’s Nest brand to DANCIN and also will oversee Marca’s 3,000-case custom-crush business.

Regardless of their medals and awards, DANCIN’s success ultimately is measured in the tasting room a mile from historic downtown Jacksonville. There’s a patio extension to help accommodate the growing appetite for their wood-fired pizza, pasta, paninis and small plates.

“From day one we’ve offered table-side tastings,” Dan said. “People are surprised by that in this part of the state, but it’s all about hospitality, and that’s the way I was brought up.”

Tim Keller, a longtime chef in the Rogue Valley, also sets DANCIN apart. His talent allowed him to cook for Bill Clinton and George W. Bush at the Jacksonville Inn when they toured the region. And Keller’s arrival allows Cindy to spend less time in the kitchen and more time sharing the DANCIN story.

“We make a Pinot Noir using the Pommard clone from our estate and one with Pommard from McMinnville,” Dan Marca said. “They are made the same way, so that allows the guest to compare and contrast the two. There is nothing better.

“And if you want to talk geeky, I can get pretty geeky,” he adds.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

canasfeast.com 750 W Lincoln Street Carlton, OR Tasting Room Open Daily 11am to 5pm

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FEATURE

winer y to watch

w i llfu l wine comp any OR Winery Watch OREGON to

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

P

ORTLAND, Ore. — Pam Walden readily admits to a life full of impromptu, and an early career as a film producer in her native England seems to have prepped her for what seems to be her calling as a successful Oregon winemaker.

“I’ve had so many adventures as a result of being spontaneous,” Walden said.

Her path to the Oregon wine industry began in 1996, a chance meeting in a French restaurant with a would-be winemaker from Pennsylvania who talked her into driving cross-country to the Northwest. Two decades later, Walden is well on her own, and the inspiring path surrounding her young Willful Wine Co. brand explains her selection as the 2017 Oregon Winery to Watch.

“Being a film producer was exciting and meant dealing with a new set of challenges the whole time,” Walden said. “You have to solve problems, and you are constantly doing something fresh. I’ve never been good at sitting down at the desk and dealing with the same crap every day.”

It would seem as though what Walden, 48, pours into a wine bottle is proof that she can still juggle almost anything life tosses her way.

On two occasions last year, Walden’s Willful Wine Co. 2014 Pinot Noir ($26) stood out in blind judgings staged by Wine Press Northwest. It first earned an “Outstanding!” rating — the equivalent of a gold medal — in the magazine’s Affordable Reds judging conducted during the spring.

Four months later, that same wine earned a 30

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Owner and winemaker Pam Walden Gary Nolton Courtesy Willful Wine Company W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y to watch boiseFEATURE FE ATURE

Owner and winemaker Pam Walden Gary Nolton Courtesy Willful Wine Company

Platinum medal in the 17th annual Best of the Best judging, a competition among Pacific Northwest wines that have won a gold medal anywhere in the world during the past year. Walden readily, and perhaps too modestly, gives credit to the clone and cooler sites as keys to the success of that 600-case production — a silky and elegant Willamette Valley Pinot Noir with just a lingering influence from new French oak.

“Pommard fruit is just so sexy, so lush and so pretty that it really doesn’t need any help or for the winemaker to do too much else,” Walden said.

And she takes pride in helping to polish the little gem that is Northridge Vineyard, an 8-acre site in the Eola-Amity Hills that Walden champions.

“I’ve been getting those grapes since 2012,” Walden said. “I go out there every month and check on the vines.”

Northridge is in some famous company with Domaine Drouhin’s Roserock Vineyard just across the road. And critics gushed over Walden’s smaller production 2014 Winemaker’s Cuvée ($45), a six-barrel blend dominated by Northridge.

Last year, after a stint at Urban Crush in Portland, Walden returned Willful’s production to the Southeast Wine Collective, an eclectic incubator in Portland for some of the Northwest’s most buzzworthy juice. She enjoys the risk/reward of f eral fermentation for Willful, but her largest and best-known WINEPRESSNW. CO MM W I N E P R E S S N W. CO

brand is Jezebel, a 4,000-case project she produces at Eugene Wine Cellars. Both labels go on the road for her sales calls, and she’s distributed in 17 states.

“At some point I want to move into my own place, but I can’t manage to do that right now,” she said.

Walden created Willful Wine Co., soon after divorcing that American she met in France, winemaker Aron Hess. They dissolved the Daedalus Cellars brand they started in 2000, but the consumer-priced Jezebel label continues to thrive because of Walden’s drive. Investment in herself began with winemaking classes at Chemeketa Community College and continued with calls to her ex and other winemakers.

“When we split, I took over the winemaking to prove that I could do it. That was my motivation,” Walden said.

The next step in Walden’s career came in 2009 when she bought Hess’ half of their Latchkey Vineyard as part of the divorce.

They had sunk 8 acres of vines into the Dundee Hills parcel only the year before. Hess lived nearby and shared in raising their two sons. Alas, in the winter of 2013, Hess died at his home from an apparent prescription drug overdose.

Now, her focus is on their two sons and her two brands. That has meant sacrificing a true love — life in a vineyard. Six months after Hess’ death, Walden sold her home to investors of Purple Hands Winery. Half of those grapes now go to Cody Wright. The other half go to his famous father, Ken Wright.

“I really miss my vines,” Walden said.

“That’s really my happy place, but I had to give it up and spend that time being the best mom I can be. I’ve got basketball games to take kids to, and I’d rather be doing that on the weekend.”

Now she and her sons, ages 10 and 13, are living in Vancouver, Wash. “Everyone has a garden, and everyone talks to each other,” she said. “It’s a lovely place.”

Walden sports a black belt at tae kwon do, enjoys time with her piano and cooking with exotic spices. “I love curries,” she said.

This year, she plans to hit the market a bit more aggressively. Hers would make quite a screenplay, and she’s keen to talk more about Willful, a lineup that also includes a Tempranillo from Southern Oregon and a Bordeaux red blend from the Walla Walla Valley.

“The whole ‘rising from the ashes’ story — that’s old now,” Walden said. “The story has to be something different because I’ve been separated from Daedalus for quite a while. At the same time, it’s something that I’ve had to work on because I still get asked, ‘Didn’t this use to be Daedalus?’ ” And those trips back home to Leicester remind her that the Northwest wine industry has many miles to go when it comes to global reach.

“I still have people that say, ‘Oregon. You make wine there?’” Walden said.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

···

Willful Wine Co.

willfulwine.com (503) 577-8982 Contact her to arrange an appointment at the SE Wine Collective, 2425 SE 35th Place Portland, 97202

Expressive Oregon wines made with hand-selected fruit, wild yeast and a willful spirit.

Join us Thursday, April 27th at SE Wine Collective for our Spring Open House or visit our web site to book a private tasting. willfulwine.com At: 2425 SE 35th Pl, Portland, OR 97214 0 1 7• •W iW e rPe re s oNror S pSrpri i n gn g2 2017 n ei nP s ss N t hthwest west

31 31

FEATURE

winer y of the year

DEL IL L E C ELL AR S WASHINGTON

of WA Winery the Year

BY ANDY PERDUE

B

ack in the early 1990s, Greg Lill got together with friends Jay Soloff and Chris Upchurch to create a winery.

The result was the DeLille Cellars, which has become one of Washington’s most revered producers. Now DeLille Cellars is Wine Press Northwest magazine’s 2017 Washington Winery of the Year.

It all began a quarter-century ago when Greg, Jay and Chris met on property in Woodinville owned by Greg’s father, Charles — just a couple minutes’ drive from Chateau Ste. Michelle. The focus at DeLille remains red blends made in the Bordeaux tradition, and Upchurch seems to have made every innovation a successful one with his winemaking.

Today, DeLille continues to earn acclaim for wines such as Chaleur Estate, Harrison Hill, D2 and Doyenne, a line of wines inspired by the Rhône Valley.

One of the key vineyards for Upchurch has been Harrison Hill, a historic vineyard in the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside. It was established by William Bridgman in 1914. All the original vines are long gone, but in 1962, Bridgman sold some land to the founders of Associated Vintners, now known as Columbia Winery in Woodinville. It was that group who planted Cabernet Sauvignon, and these old vines are what attracted Upchurch to Harrison Hill.

“The one consistency around the world is that all winemakers worth a damn seek out old vines,” Upchurch said. “They are like old people in the sense that they don’t move fast and they don’t produce a lot.”

Cabernet Sauvignon on Harrison Hill 32

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

Greg and Stacy Lill, part of the ownership group of DeLille in their tasting room.

Richard Duval Richard Duval Images

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y of the year FEATURE ripens slowly, a trait Upchurch cherishes. He was led to Harrison Hill in the early days of DeLille by his mentor, the legendary David Lake, then winemaker for Columbia Winery.

Lake recalled working with those vines before Chateau Ste. Michelle took over the contract.

Upchurch remembers Lake nudging him, encouraging him to explore working with those vines. So Upchurch approached Allen Shoup, then CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, who allowed DeLille to take over the small vineyard. At the time, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir also grew on Harrison Hill, so Upchurch worked with the Newhouse family, owners of the vineyard, to replant to Bordeaux varieties.

DeLille brought its first Cab out of Harrison Hill in 1994, a great vintage for Washington, Upchurch said. That marked his first old-vine Cab, and he was hooked.

By 1996, Harrison Hill became the blended wine it is today, and the 1999 Harrison Hill, a product of a cool vintage, remains one of Upchurch’s favorites.

“In 1999, I made one of the great wines of

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

The grounds of DeLille winery in Woodinville.

my career,” Upchurch said. “It’s beautifully expressive with purity of fruit. It taught me my place. It’s humbling. We’re all benefiting from the guy before us.”

Recently, Upchurch crafted what has be-

come one of DeLille’s finest wines: Four Flags. It is a Cabernet Sauvignon from four vineyards on Red Mountain. It started as a small project in the cellar when Upchurch and his team created a blend of Cabs from

S p r i n g 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

33

FEATURE

winer y of the year

Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Grand Ciel and Upchurch. They made a small amount for the DeLille wine club. It sold out in a month and moved on to become a bigger part of the lineup.

In 2013, the Four Flags was named Wine of the Year by The Seattle Times.

Upchurch and his wife, Theodora, purchased a few acres of land on Red Mountain at a 2007 auction. They then hired famed grape grower Dick Boushey to plant and manage the vineyard. There’s now a building that serves as a small winery, laboratory and apartment, which Upchurch uses during harvest to cut down on travel between Red Mountain and Woodinville.

Most the grapes from Upchurch go to DeLille, and they make the cut for Four Flags, D2 and even the flagship Chaleur ···

DeLille Cellars

14421 Woodinville-Redmond Road N.E. Woodinville, 425-877-9472 www.delillecellars.com.

Estate. Upchurch also holds back few barrels for its own label, Upchurch Vineyard. In 2013, Upchurch released his first wine from the 2010 vintage. He views Upchurch Vineyard as a future retirement project, one that’s years off.

“DeLille is my pride and joy,” he said.

Charles Lill passed away in 2008, and five years later, Bacchus Capital Management in San Francisco invested in DeLille Cellars.

The arrangement sparked DeLille Cellars to expand production and distribution into other markets, including in the East Coast.

“Our partnership with Bacchus provides DeLille Cellars with the financial backing and growth ability that we could not have accomplished on our own,” said Greg Lill, DeLille’s president and CEO. “Now, we are at the point where we need additional resources and proven expertise in order to take advantage together of the opportunities ahead."

Among the points of pride at DeLille Cellars is Grand Ciel, its estate vineyard on Red Mountain that’s a partnership with Red

Mountain pioneer Jim Holmes, who founded Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. Grand Ciel is focused on Bordeaux varieties, and Upchurch uses some of that fruit for the flagship Chaleur Estate. There’s also a special Cabernet Sauvignon each year from Grand Ciel.

And while Red Mountain commands much of DeLille’s attention, they also pull from famous vineyards such as Boushey in the Yakima Valley, historic Sagemoor overlooking the Columbia River, Mike Sauer’s iconic Red Willow near the Mount Adams foothills and Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills.

DeLille’s original chateau now is home to special events and has become a popular setting for weddings. Lill’s team also operates the Carriage House tasting room, near Brian Carter Cellars, and a tasting bar in downtown Kirkland called Maison DeLille. is the editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. He’s also the wine columnist for the Seattle Times.

ANDY PERDUE

2017

Washington Winery of the Year NORTHWEST

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FEATURE

winer y to watch

W I T C ELLA R S WA

WASHINGTON

Winery Watch to

Richard Duval

Wit Cellars opening

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

P

ROSSER, Wash. — May 7 marks the first anniversary of Wit Cellars, and it stands to be quite a birthday celebration for Flint Nelson, Carolina “Cat” Warwick and Gina Adams-Royer.

Heck, folks might spot Nelson — Wit’s lead winemaker — running the register.

“I know how to do the till now, and I never thought I could learn that,” Nelson chuckled. “That’s been a skill set that was way beyond me, but I’ve got it down. I do have more incentive, for sure.”

Nelson, Warwick and Adams-Royer worked together at Kestrel Vintners in the 36

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

Yakima Valley town of Prosser before parting ways with the winery during the summer of 2015. The experience left Nelson doubting his future as a winemaker.

Yet, the trio formed a team and found a second wind to start their own winery. Nelson made a few calls, and they soon were back in the game in time for Nelson’s 25th crush as a winemaker. However, no one could afford to give up the jobs they’d found since Kestrel.

“It has been a lot of work,” Nelson said.

“I’m too busy wearing too many hats with three jobs at this point, but with all of that

risk has come great reward.

“Now that I’ve done it, it’s been the best thing I ever did,” he added with a chuckle.

“Yeah, the best thing I ever did.”

And Wine Press Northwest has named Wit Cellars the 2017 Washington Winery to Watch.

Wit Cellars refers to their slogan of “Whatever It Takes,” and the brand went from conception to 1,350 cases in less than nine months. The wines Nelson came up with have been stunning. Critics gave top ratings to their 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Red Wine, 2015 Rosé, 2014 Riesling W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

winer y to watch FEATURE and 2015 Pinot Gris. Nelson’s own brand, Mazzacano Cellars, also earned high praise for its 2013 L’armonia Red Wine and 2013 Grenache. Those wines are sold — if still available — alongside the disappearing Wit wines.

“I was worried about the price point of our reds being $40 to $60, but that doesn’t seem to have any effect,” Nelson said. “I’m surprised, but I thought I’d sell a lot more white.

I’m making adjustments going forward.”

A key to their success has been the good karma Nelson earned during his first 25 years in the Washington wine industry, a combination of his talent and the relationships developed with a number of the state’s top growers. Wit Cellars sources vineyards in the Yakima Valley such as Boushey, Elephant Mountain, Upland and Olsen.

“I named my son after Leif (Olsen),” Nelson said.

There’s his long-term relationship with Ryan Flanagan, who manages Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes, and then his fulltime job with Jerry Milbrandt as a consultant at Wahluke Wine Co. “I have access to good fruit,” Nelson said with a smile.

Longtime friends helped get tasting room sales moving, yet Wit Cellars naturally developed a new legion of fans in a short period of time. And they are looking closely at opening a second tasting room in Woodinville’s Warehouse District.

“A lot of people have found us, and they’ve been super supportive because we have tons of wine club signups,” he said. “They knew of our work at Kestrel. It’s been good, and when we get into Woodinville, I hope it will be crazy.”

It took them less than a year to realize they have a good problem. Wit Cellars is selling more than it has in the bottle.

“We were conservative, maybe too conservative,” Nelson said. “In 2016, we picked up enough fruit to be at the 5,000- to 6,000-case level for just reds. We’ll be in good position in a few years.”

Not that Nelson needed the confirmation, but this winter he got another boost from the exclusive American Fine Wine Invitational judging in South Florida. Wines he crafted at Kestrel for its Winemaker’s Select Series went on to earn best of class for its 2013 Malbec, double gold medals for the 2013 Cabernet Franc and 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, and a W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

gold for the 2013 Mourvèdre.

“I can be proud,” Nelson said. “I knew those ’13s were really good when I made them.”

Nelson wasn’t out of work long when Milbrandt recruited him to Mattawa.

“It’s just four days a week, so I can work on Wit for three days,” Nelson chuckled. “And then I teach at Yakima Valley College at night. I’ve had a lot of support from Cat and Gina and my wife — we’re all making it work.”

Each has devoted a chunk of their life to the Washington wine industry. Warwick worked hospitality at Apex Cellars before becoming the first graduate of the YVC winemaking program in 2009. She reached the level of associate winemaker at Owen Roe before joining Nelson at Kestrel. Warwick now manages a farm near Benton City.

Adams-Royer arrived at Kestrel in 2012 and helped run the winery’s tasting rooms in Prosser, Leavenworth and Woodinville.

“She is managing our business and keeping us all on task, and she is doing a great job,” Nelson said.

He graduated from Washington State University in 1991 with a degree in food science and horticulture. His path began at Columbia Crest and led to Hogue Cellars, Paul Thomas and Apex. Mentors included Joy Andersen, David Forsyth, Rob Griffin, the late David Lake and Brian Carter.

“It’s been a fun journey,” Nelson said. “I never thought I would enjoy working in a tasting room, but I actually do kind of like it — one or two days a week is fun. It’s different when it is yours and you have to make it successful. I’m not very good at it, so it’s a good thing Gina and Cat are both better than I am.”

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

···

Wit Cellars

2880 Lee Road, Suite A Prosser, WA 99350 witcellars.com (509) 786-1311

TOP 50 wines of 2016 by Seattle Times www.WITCELLARS.com Prosser Tasting Room 2880 Lee Rd #A Prosser, WA 509-786-1311

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WHITE SWEEPSTAKE WINNER Hanna 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, CA

Castello di Amorosa 2015 Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, CA

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A to Z Wineworks 2015 Chardonnay Oregon Acrobat 2015 Pinot Gris, Oregon Airfield Estates 2013 Merlot, Yakima Valley Airlie Winery 2015 Rosé, Willamette Valley Alloro Vineyard Estate 2014 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains

PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINNERS Veltliner, Umpqua Valley Zerba Cellars 2013 Wild Z Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley Skylite Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley

Walla Walla Valley

Umpqua Valley Airlie Winery 2015 Müller-Thurgau Willamette Valley Amelia Wynn 2013 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley Barrister Winery 2013 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2013 She-Devil Syrah Columbia Valley Browne Family Vineyards 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley Bunnell Family Cellar 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Bunnell Family Cellar 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Claar Cellars 2013 Syrah, Columbia Valley Clearwater Canyon Cellars 2014 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carmenere Washington College Cellars 2014 Cockburn Ranch Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley

Umpqua Valley Cougar Crest Estate Winery 2015 Viognier, Kriselle Cellars 2015 Viognier, Rogue Valley Walla Walla Valley Left Coast Cellars 2015 The Orchards Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley Coyote Canyon Winery 2013 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Tres Cruces Red Wine, Longship Cellars 2014 Quinn Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley Deer Creek Vineyards 2015 Pinot Noir, Oregon Milbrandt Vineyards 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Del Rio Vineyards 2015 Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley NHV 2013 Syrah, Naches Heights Domaine Serene 2013 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Nine Hats Wines 2015 Riesling, Noir, Willamette Valley Columbia Valley Edenvale 2008 Syrah, Rogue Valley Pebblestone Cellars 2012 Ellis Vineyards Tempranillo, Rogue Valley Eleven Winery 2014 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley Primarius 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Gordon Estate 2014 Syrah, Columbia Valley Redgate Vineyard 2015 Tempranillo, Eola-Amity Hills Gordon Estate 2015 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Grizzly Peak 2015 Pinot Gris, Rogue Valley

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2014 Riesling, Umpqua Valley,

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2014 Syrah, Umpqua Valley

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2015 Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley

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Rock Point Wines NV River Rock White, Rogue Valley

Sawtooth Winery 2014 Estate Riesling, Snake River Valley

Schmidt Family Vineyards 2014 Reserve Chardonnay, Applegate Valley

Spangler Vineyards 2015 Viognier, Southern Oregon

Walla Walla Vintners 2013 Frazier Bluff Vineyard Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley Zerba Cellars 2014 Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley

GOLDS Martin Scott Winery 2015 Rosé,

Seufert Winery 2012 Vine Idyl Vineyard Pinot

Belle Fiore 2013 Syrah, Rogue Valley Blakeslee Vineyard Estate 2015

DANCIN Vineyards 2014 Tribute Riserva

Harry & David Vineyards 2014 Cabernet

Melrose Vineyards 2015 Estate Syrah,

Seven Falls Cellars 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon,

Deer Creek Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir Oregon Del Rio Vineyards NV Rosé Jolee,

Henry Earl 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon,

Melrose Vineyards 2015 Estate Sauvignon

Silver Totem 2014 Native Yeast Cabernet

DeLille Cellars 2014 D2 Red Wine

Intrinsic 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Iris Vineyards 2015 Pinot Gris,

Mercer Canyons 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon,

DeLille Cellars 2014 Four Flags Cabernet

Irvine Family Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir,

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Tertulia Cellars 2012 Phinny Hill Vineyard

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Blakeslee Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains

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Eternal Wines 2014 Eternal Patience Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley

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Eye of the Needle NV The Point, Columbia Valley

Folin Cellars 2013 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley

Columbia Valley

Horse Heaven Hills Valley

Walla Walla Valley

Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Verdot, Rogue Valley

Oregon

Rogue Valley

Scion, Snipes Mountain

Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima County Columbia Valley

Columbia Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley

Snake River Valley

Van Duzer Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Van Duzer Vineyards 2014 Westside Blocks

Cellars 2015 Estate Sauvignon REX HILL 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ArborBrook Vineyards 2014 Heritage Cuvée Chateau Ste. Michelle 2014 Canoe Ridge 14 Hands 2014 Stampede Red Blend Columbia Valley Ledger DavidBlanc, Rogue Valley Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Estate Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills Rolling Bay Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, VIDON Vineyard 2014 Pinot Noir, 14 Hands NV Sparkling Rosé, Yakima Valley Lemelson Vineyards 2014 Thea’s Selection Snipes Mountain Chehalem Mountains Argyle Winery 2012 Knudsen Vineyard Blanc de Cliff Creek Cellars 2011 Sams Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Blanc, Dundee Hills Claret, Rogue Valley Gamache Vintners 2012 Heritage Nicolas, Rolling Bay Winery 2014 Manitou Red, Waitsburg Cellars 2015 Chevray Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley Lindsay Creek Vineyards 2014 Riesling, Snipes Mountain Columbia Valley Aubichon 2015 Pinot Noir Coeur de Terre Vineyard 2014 Pinot Noir, Washington Willamette Valley Willamette Valley Gamache Vintners 2012 Gamache Vineyard Russell Creek Winery 2012 Syrah, Walla Walla Vintners 2013 Cabernet Malbec, Columbia Valley Locus 2014 Red, Yakima Valley Red Mountain Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Barnard Griffin 2016 Rosé of Sangiovese College Cellars 2014 Clarke Vineyard Petit Columbia Valley Verdot, Walla Walla Valley Girardet 2013 Bush Vines Shale Rock Vineyards Longship Cellars 2014 Ginger Man Syrah, Schooler Nolan 2013 Red Blend, Walla Walla Vintners 2014 Merlot Walla Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Walla Walla Valley Red Mountain Walla Valley Barrage Cellars 2012 Cabernet Franc, College Cellars 2016 Rosé of Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley Columbia Valley Girardet 2015 Shale Rock Vineyards Riesling, Maragas Winery 2014 Chardonnay, Schooler Nolan 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Willamette Valley Vineyards 2014 Pinot Umpqua Valley Rattlesnake Hills Red Mountain Noir, Willamette Valley Basalt Cellars 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Crest 2013 Walter Clore Private Columbia Valley Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley Gordon Estate 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Marchesi Vineyards 2014 Pace Season Cellars 2013 Phoenix, Southern Oregon Williamson Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Columbia Valley Columbia Valley Sauvignon, Snake River Valley Basalt Cellars 2014 Francine Cabernet Cuckoo’s Nest Cellars 2015 Fizze, Oregon Serra Vineyards 2014 Tempranillo, Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Grizzly Peak 2015 Viognier, Rogue Valley Marchesi Vineyards 2014 Pinot Noir Applegate Valley DANCIN Vineyards 2014 Danseur Syrah, Columbia Gorge Southern Oregon

FEATURE

trappist abbey

Trappist Abbey ‘holy’ devoted to prized Willamette Valley wines STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIKI EIERDAM

M

onks at Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey in Carlton, Oregon may be cloistered but they still support the world renowned wine region they call home. In fact, for 26 years the Abbey has developed a reputation in the Willamette Valley for being “holy” devoted to the care of some highly-prized bottles.

Traditionally, all abbeys are self-sustaining to allow for honest work, time in contemplative meditation and living in the world but not of it. Some choose to make and sell fudge, liqueurs, beer and even stained glass.

The Trappists—as they are referred to— maintain 900 acres of forest land, bind books, bake heavenly fruitcakes and operate the Abbey Wine Warehouse.

According to Father Richard Layton, business manager for the Warehouse, it all began in January of 1991. Since the late 50’s, the Abbey operated a church furniture plant assembling pews and other house of worship necessities. When sanctuaries began ordering chairs to maximize their square footage, the Abbey moved on to office furniture and then contracted with three successive furniture makers that, ultimately, went out of business.

In the end, the Abbey was left with an empty 20,000 square-foot building equipped with electricity, lighting and ventilation.

Father Paschal Phillips, a former attorney, was the Abbey business manager at the time.

Father Layton shared that he was friends with Susan Sokol Blosser and Roland Soles (then winemaker at Argyle Winery) and inquired to them what he should do with the space.

“Father Paschal was one of my favorite people,” Sokol Blosser recalled. “He talked to Bill Blosser and me and a few other people about how they could help in the wine business. We suggested that they could warehouse 40

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

Mike Bayliss, owner of Ghost Hill Cellars, worked at the Abbey Wine Warehouse for 39 years. Material for the bar of his tasting room and the colored glass windows are both repurposed from the Abbey’s old chapel.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

trappist abbey FEATURE

wine for us; that they had the storage that we didn’t have.”

An author among other things, Sokol Blosser recounted that the Abbey Wine Warehouse started with six wineries and 30,000 cases.

Remembering Father Paschal’s original business plan, Father Layton chuckled “I

think his idea was it’d be one pallet at a time and most of the time he’d sit back smoking a cigar.”

Unaware of all the government regulations regarding alcohol, an outside manager was brought in to set up bookkeeping and handle the tax end of the business. From bonded wines; to wines that have had taxes paid on

G H O ST HIL L W IN E M A K E R H A S R O OT S IN T HE A B B EY Not only has the Abbey Wine Warehouse stored for the local wine industry, they’ve also employed the wine industry. Mike Bayliss, owner of Ghost Hill Cellars, began his tenure at the Warehouse while still attending high school.

Bayliss said, “Mostly I worked in the fruitcake business, handled maintenance in the bindery (and) delivered books. I never knew what I was going to do when I went to work and I liked that part of it. There was a lot of variety.”

In total, Bayliss spent 39 years with the Abbey and, in that time, became close with many of the monks.

“Brother John (Carl John Benedict) and I were very close. He was my best friend. A friend of my wife tells the story about when our son (Michael) was born. We were at mass and Michael was a week or two old. Brother John took the baby back into the monastery to show him off to everybody and it was an hour or two before he came back out. The kids called him Uncle John,” Bayliss said.

Brother John passed away in 2016 but the many memories the two men shared hold a special place for Bayliss.

Trappist Abbey W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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FEATURE

trappist abbey

them; to wines preparing to be shipped; to shipping wines out of state, there are assigned and trained personnel to track every step.

By 1993 the original building was full and Father Layton convinced the community to invest in an adjacent 20,000 square-foot warehouse. Today, the Warehouse provides storage for about 150 wineries and 245,000 cases but Warehouse manager, Chuck Sinner, has seen those numbers go as high as 320,000 cases on occasion.

Long the only storage facility in the area, the Warehouse is now the smallest of the four currently operating but they hold their own just fine. Originally employing three workers, staffing has increased to 12 including fork lift drivers and office, inventory and regulating personnel.

Longevity is common and most employees have been with the Ware-

42

Abbey Wine Warehouse custom labeling: The Abbey Wine Warehouse still provides custom labeling for clients including small lot wax seals.

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

trappist abbey FEATURE the Oregon wine industry over the years. She recounted that they packed gift boxes when Sokol Blosser Winery didn’t have the personnel to do it and, in turn, her winery took Christmas gifts to the Warehouse staff they became familiar with over the years.

“I really think that Father Paschal was a man of vision. To be able to look at the wine industry at the time that he did and see that there could be this opportunity was really

Abbey Wine Warehouse manager, Chuck Sinner, explaining warehouse operations.

house for over 5 years, with a handful boasting 20.

This is where the Warehouse finds its niche.

“I like dealing with our customers, especially the ones that have been with us for years like Ken Wright and Kramer. I also enjoy the smaller wineries coming up and building relationships with them,” Sinner said.

Because the Warehouse does not ship internationally, it focuses on smaller wineries that are either startup or boutique, retaining only one large winery account currently.

Charging a much lower monthly rate than some of the bigger facilities is a particularly attractive feature and it still offers custom labeling services.

Sokol Blosser has very warm feelings for the Warehouse and the role they’ve played in W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

visionary and very strategic,” Sokol Blosser said. is a freelance writer based in Vancouver, Wash., who writes a food and wine blog, “Corks and Forks” for the Vancouver Columbian Newspaper.

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S p r i n g 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Oregon wine symposium recognizes leaders

The Oregon wine industry honored some of its most esteemed leaders, as nominated by their peers, during the Oregon Wine Symposium Awards Luncheon on Feb. 22.

Sue Horstmann, executive director of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association, received the Lifetime Achievement Award after 20 years working with Oregon winegrowers and winemakers.

The Founders Award honors people whose sustained efforts have positively affected the direction and accomplishments of Oregon wine. Few have been as instrumental as Harry Peterson-Nedry, who founded CHEHALEM in 1990.

Leigh Bartholomew received the Outstanding Industry Leadership Award. Leigh has been a leader in the Oregon wine industry from her earliest days, building the Archery Summit vineyard and reputation, serving as chairwoman of the Oregon Wine Board and president of the Oregon Winegrowers Association in 2013.

The Vineyard Excellence Award was presented to two professionals. Juan Ordaz and his family typify so much of what the Oregon wine community represents: hard work, commitment and longevity as the rock of the CHEHALEM vineyard crew in the Willamette Valley for the past 28 vintages. In the Umpqua Valley, Darin Cook started working at Fault Line Vineyards in 2003. He has become the chief tractor driver, proving extraordinary agility on Abacela’s unbelievably steep hillside.

Two individuals received the Industry Partner Award. Dr. Scott Burns’ guidance and leadership in studying the soil and geological history of the Columbia Gorge, Southern Oregon and Willamette Valley winegrowing regions have been key in teaching the wine industry about what makes Oregon soil and geology unique. Leda Garside has been with Tuality Healthcare since 1993, managing and facilitating the clinical health services for Oregon’s seasonal migrant vineyard workers and their families.

Ava DeRosier, director of food and beverage at Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine and Neuman Hotel Group, accepted the Oregon Wine A-List Wine Program of the Year Award for setting a standard of excellence among Oregon wine restaurant programs.

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FEATURE

randolph cellars

R. Alexander Schemkes in the tasting room of Randolph Cellars

Zacchorelli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi

Randolph Cellars, a Snohomish father-son project

BY DAN RADIL

L

ast year’s best of show winner at the inaugural Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival, a 2013 Syrah from Randolph Cellars in Snohomish, almost didn’t happen.

Realizing he was up against the last day of the deadline for competition entries, cofounder and winemaker, R. Alexander Schemkes, jumped in his vehicle, drove up to Bellingham, and handed off his wines in a hotel parking lot located just off the freeway.

“I almost felt like I’d done something shady, passing off wine in a parking lot,” Alexander recalls with a laugh. “But I was proud of the Syrah and knew it was something special based on how it was selling. So I thought we would do well…but best in show?

How do you expect that?”

For a winery that’s only been open since August of 2015, it’s a success story that in-

46

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S p r i n g 2 017

cludes good technical skills, good vineyard sources, and a father-and-son winemaking team that diligently works together while still having fun.

STARTING OUT There are two Randolphs behind Randolph Cellars: Snohomish resident and Aerospace Engineer, Randolph “Randy” Schemkes, and his 26-year-old son, Randolph Alexander Schemkes – a University of Washington graduate with a background in chemistry, environmental science, and resource management – who goes by his middle name.

The elder Schemkes got his start as many smaller wineries do; in the family garage.

“When my dad starts to like something,” Alexander notes, “he wants to know everything about it and make it himself. After I got into college I really got into the process as well. I discovered I had a taste for wine

and really loved everything that went into making it. It was a blend of art and science.”

While Randy continued to make his “hobby wine” with a family friend, Alexander was expanding his wine tasting experience until the two of them joined winemaking forces in about 2009. “I was still in college, not knowing exactly what I was going to do when I asked my dad if he might be interested in starting a winery together.

After I proposed that plan, he basically started looking for property the very next day.”

FROM ORCAS TO SNOHOMISH The Schemkes’ affinity for the San Juan Islands led to the eventual purchase of property on Orcas Island, where they built a cedar-barn tasting room and opened Orcas Island Winery in 2013.

“The opportunity to be the only winery on an island (that receives so many visitors) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

randolph cellars FEATURE seemed too good to pass up,” Alexander notes on the family’s choice of location. He lived on Orcas and managed the tasting room immediately after finishing college.

They also planted about 21⁄2 acres of coolclimate grapes on the island, primarily Siegerrebe, Madeleine Angevine, Muscat of Norway, and Pinot Noir in 2011 and 2012. This coming fall will be the winery’s first attempt at producing an estate vintage.

The concept for a second winery took root a few years later, while the Schemkes were on their way to an Eastern Washington vineyard to pick up grapes for the Orcas winery. Alexander recalls pitching the idea to his dad by asking, “What do you think about doing another label in Snohomish? It’s where I grew up, it’s a town on the rise…and it’s becoming a good destination,” noting its proximity to the dozens of other wineries in nearby Woodinville.

The selection of Randolph Cellars for the second winery name was practically a nobrainer. “It’s a family name that has been passed down and it means a lot to us that this is a father/son project. We already share the name and winemaking duties, so we said, ‘Why not?’”

Alexander returned to Snohomish in the summer of 2015 to assist with the opening of Randolph Cellars, where the Schemkes’ own a downtown building that houses the winery’s tasting room and production facility. Randolph currently produces about 1,000 cases annually and the Schemkes plan to double that in each of the next two years.

“I really wanted to move back home and start working on a project that will turn into a lifelong career,” says Alexander. “We’ll keep Orcas as it is, but our goal here (in Snohomish) is expansion, distribution, and making Randolph Cellars our primary brand with

··· Orcas Island Winery

2371 Crow Valley Road, Orcas Island Days and hours of operation vary by month (425) 314-7509 orcasislandwinery.com

Randolph Cellars

1007 1st Street, Snohomish Thurs. - Sat. 1:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Sunday 1:00 to 5:00 p.m.

(360) 243-3994 randolphcellars.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Randolph Cellars earned best of show honors in the inaugural Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival last summer.

Zacchorelli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi

Orcas Island Winery as our second label.”

The Schemkes now have a full-time tasting room manager at the island location, while the two of them rotate duties involving wine production and vineyard management throughout the year.

From the onset, the Schemkes’ goal has been to produce “approachable, affordable wines that are true-to-the-varietal,” says Alexander. As far as the working relationship has been with his dad, he notes, “I couldn’t ask for a better business partner.”

CURRENT AND FUTURE RELEASES The Schemkes have always relied on good vineyard sources to produce their wines. That includes Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills Appellation, Red Mountain’s Kiona Vineyards, and Two Mountain Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills region.

Alexander is quick to acknowledge Matthew and Patrick Rawn at Two Mountain Winery as instrumental in helping the Randolph and Orcas wineries during the early years.

“They used to crush all of our fruit for us…and Matt and his brother Pat are just the nicest people in the world. They’ve helped us so much along the way. “ That relationship continues today, as Randolph Cellars will be using Two Mountain grapes for the winery’s first-ever Rosé, a 2016

Rosé of Cinsault that is scheduled for release this spring.

Also set for spring release are the 2016 vintages of a Dry Riesling and Chardonnay.

Those will accompany the winery’s recently released red varietals: a 2014 Merlot with chocolate/cherry cordial flavors and a lengthy finish; a 2014 Malbec with lovely floral aromas and generous blueberry on the palate; a 2014 Cabernet Franc, with tasty dried red fruits and a touch of toasted oak; and a fullbodied 2014 Syrah with black plum and blackberry flavors accentuated with a smoky, bacony finish.

Which raises the question: How will Randolph follow up on its Best of Show award for the 2013 Syrah at this year’s Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival, scheduled for August 5, 2017?

“It was our first competition…so it definitely caught us a little off-guard,” Alex says.

He knows they’ll be better prepared this year, although he and his dad have yet to decide which wines will be selected for the judging.

Noting the July 1 deadline date for wines to be entered into the competition; Alexander predicts with a laugh, “You’ll probably see us in the parking lot on June 30!” is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com

DAN RADIL

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malbec malbec

TASTING TASTING RESULTS RESULTS

Yakima Yakima Valley Valley or or thethe Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills.

Hills.

The The resulting resulting wines wines areare dark dark and and dense, dense, exhibiting exhibiting ripe ripe flavors flavors of of redred and and black black fruit. fruit.

Most Most importantly, importantly, thethe structure structure is based is based onon food-friendly food-friendly acidity acidity instead instead of of gritty gritty tannins. tannins. easy wine love with.

It’sIt’s anan easy wine to to fallfall in in love with.

Our blind judging Malbec drew Our blind judging of of Malbec drew 101101 examples from across Pacific Northwest. examples from across thethe Pacific Northwest.

Our Our judges judges sawsaw first first hand hand thethe consistency consistency in in BY BY AA NN DD Y YP P EE RR DD UU EE quality, quality, particularly particularly structure. structure. recent years, years, thethe revival revival of of Carménère, Carménère, which which Our Our judges judges were were April April Reddout, Reddout, wine wine ndoubtedly ndoubtedly thethe rising rising starstar of of NorthNorth- recent thought thought lostlost to to antiquity antiquity hashas been been added added program program director director at at thethe Walter Walter Clore Clore Wine Wine west west wine wine is Malbec, is Malbec, thethe bright bright redred waswas to to thethe list.list. and and Culinary Culinary Center Center in in thethe Yakima Yakima Valley; Valley; that that plays plays nothing nothing more more than than a a Since Since 2007, 2007, Washington Washington Malbec Malbec hashas been been Gregg Gregg McConnell, McConnell, editor/publisher editor/publisher of of Wine Wine minor minor role role in in itsits native native Bordeaux Bordeaux and and is all is all rising, rising, from from 700 700 tons tons harvested harvested that that year year to to Press Press Northwest; Northwest; Brad Brad Smith, Smith, winemaking winemaking butbut ignored ignored in in California.

California. more than than 2,400 2,400 in in 2015.

2015.

And And it fetches it fetches as as instructor instructor at at Yakima Yakima Valley Valley College College in in GrandGrandIn In fact, fact, thethe only only place place where where Malbec Malbec excels excels more much perper tonton as as Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sauvignon. view, Wash.; Andy Perdue, wine is in is in Argentina.

Argentina.

The The South South American American nation nation much view, Wash.; Andy Perdue, wine columnist columnist forfor Blind Blind tastings tastings have have shown shown Washington Washington hashas turned turned Malbec Malbec into into anan international international The The Seattle Seattle Times; Times; Eric Eric Degerman, Degerman, presipresiMalbec cancan stand stand toetoe to to toetoe with with botgrape, grape, and and is exporting is exporting delicious delicious examples examples at at Malbec toptop botdent/CEO dent/CEO of of Great Great Northwest Northwest Wine Wine in in tlings from Argentina. a fast a fast clip. clip. tlings from Argentina.

Richland, Richland, Wash.; Wash.; Ken Ken Robertson, Robertson, Wine Wine Press Press Here Here in in thethe Northwest Northwest – particularly – particularly SoSo what what makes makes Washington Washington Malbec Malbec so so Northwest Northwest columnist; columnist; Richard Richard Larsen, Larsen, re-reWashington Washington – Malbec – Malbec is aisrising a rising phenomphenomgood? good?

The The climate climate in in thethe arid arid Columbia Columbia search search winemaker winemaker forfor Washington Washington State State UniUnienon, enon, with with dozens dozens of of wineries wineries clamoring clamoring to to Valley Valley turns turns Malbec Malbec into into a mid-season a mid-season rip-ripversity; versity; Hank Hank Sauer, Sauer, wine wine educator educator in in KenneKenneproduce produce a varietal a varietal Malbec Malbec and and grape grape growers growers ener, ener, conveniently conveniently ready ready forfor harvest harvest after after wick, wick, Wash.; Wash.; and and Mike Mike Rader, Rader, Great Great NorthNorthplanting planting it quickly. it quickly.

Merlot Merlot and and Syrah Syrah butbut before before Cabernet Cabernet SauSau- west west Wine Wine tasting tasting panelist. panelist.

Malbec Malbec is one is one of of thethe fivefive major major Bordeaux Bordeaux vignon. vignon.

It reveals It reveals a sense a sense of of transparency, transparency, The The blind blind judging judging took took place place at at thethe Clover Clover redred varieties, varieties, including including Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon, offering offering different different qualities qualities in in examples examples from from Island Island InnInn in in downtown downtown Kennewick.

Kennewick.

Merlot, Merlot, Cabernet Cabernet Franc Franc and and Petit Petit Verdot.

Verdot.

In In Red Red Mountain, Mountain, thethe Walla Walla Walla Walla Valley, Valley, thethe Here Here areare thethe results: results:

M MAALLBBEEC C

aarising risingNW NWstar star

U U

48 48

W iW n ei nPer ePsr se sNsoN r tohrw t hew s te s•t S• pS r ipnrgi n2g017 2 017

W IW N EI N PE RPER SE SS NSW. NC W.OCMO M

malbec TASTING RESULTS

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Prices are suggested retail.

Outstanding!

Smasne Cellars $45 2012 Three Vineyard Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley Winemaker Robert Smasne pulled grapes from three top Columbia Valley vineyards for this stunning Malbec. It’s a mouth-filling classic wine with aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, baking spices and cardamom, plus flavors of blueberry that really show Malbec at its best. (13.9% alc., 55 cases) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

vino la Monarcha $20 2014 Malbec, Wahluke Slope The Wahluke Slope continues to burnish its reputation for red wines, and Victor Palencia knows this wine region as well as anyone through his work for Jones of Washington and its Mattawa custom-crush facility clients. Here, Palencia also shines with his one of his own brands. It’s a remarkably expressive example of Malbec, featuring alluring aromas of dusty Chelan cherry and blackberry with touches of wintergreen, vanilla and clove. The drink is quite rich, bringing flavors of plums, blueberry and Rainier cherry. Sweet milk chocolate tannins and a stream of Marionberry combine to create a long and superb finish. (14.5% alc., 250 cases)

fruit, with an impeccably balanced chocolate and spice finish. Those give this Malbec tremendous complexity. (14.5% alc., 324 cases) Merry Cellars $46 2014 Seven Hills Vineyard Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Pullman winemaker Patrick Merry brought in grapes from famous Seven Hills Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley to produce one of the best Malbecs in the Pacific Northwest. This reveals aromatics of graphite on the nose followed by flavors of black cherry, cardamom and blackberry for a long and complex finish. (14.5% alc., 180 cases)

H/H Estates $38 2012 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Reserve G.W. Smith Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Justin Michaud finished what predecessor John Gabriel started, a wine from estate grapes. Aromas of cherry cola, dried strawberry, raspberry and elderberry are backed by notes of earthiness and graphite — forming layers of complexity classic to the Horse Heaven Hills. (14.4% alc., 144 cases)

Misty Oaks Vineyard $32 2014 Viper Trail Malbec, Southern Oregon Southern Oregon winemaker Steve Simmons uses grapes from the Applegate Valley next to California to craft this Malbec, which opens with aromas of black cherry and Flathead Lake raspberry. There’s nothing not to like about this wine — its spot-on acidity and harmonious balance make it perfect for pairing with grilled meats.

(13.7% alc., 170 cases)

Sparkman Cellars $38 2014 Preposterous Malbec, Red Mountain Woodinville winemaker Chris Sparkman’s Malbec used grapes from the warm Red Mountain region to craft a complex wine. There’s dusty graphite and earthiness on a foundation of black and blue

H/H Estates $38 2014 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Reserve G.W. Smith Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Yakima Valley winemaker Justin Michaud strikes again with another delicious Malbec from the Horse Heaven Hills, his first full vintage working S p r i n g 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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TASTING TA STING RESULTS RESULTS

forfor owner/grower owner/grower Mike Mike Andrews.

Andrews.

This This reveals reveals aromas aromas of sage, of sage, blackberry, blackberry, blueberry blueberry andand a hint a hint of of white white pepper, pepper, followed followed by by flavors flavors of blackberry of blackberry andand a sprinkling a sprinkling of cocoa of cocoa powder powder andand blueberry. blueberry.

(15.1% (15.1% alc.,alc., 98 98 cases) cases) Mercer Mercer Estates Estates Winery Winery $19$19 2014 2014 Malbec, Malbec, Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills Hills Prosser Prosser winemaker winemaker Jessica Jessica Munnell Munnell is quickly is quickly establishing establishing herself herself as one as one thethe toptop Malbec Malbec winewinemakers makers in Washington. in Washington.

In her In her work work at Mercer at Mercer Estates, Estates, using using estate estate grapes grapes from from thethe Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills, Hills, sheshe is crafting is crafting a gorgeous a gorgeous Malbec Malbec with with a hint a hint of raspberry of raspberry andand flavors flavors of blueberry, of blueberry, blackberry, blackberry, black black plum plum —— all all perfectly perfectly balanced balanced thanks thanks to to bright bright acidity acidity andand tamed tamed tannins. tannins.

(14.8% (14.8% alc.,alc., 862862 cases) cases) Whidbey Whidbey Island Island Winery Winery $20$20 2014 2014 Malbec, Malbec, Columbia Columbia Valley Valley Puget Puget Sound Sound winemaker winemaker Greg Greg Osenbach Osenbach brought brought in grapes in grapes from from three three Columbia Columbia Valley Valley vineyards, vineyards, including including Crawford, Crawford, Upland Upland andand Alder Alder Ridge.

Ridge.

TheThe resulting resulting wine wine shows shows off off enchanting enchanting dusty dusty aromas aromas followed followed by by flavors flavors of plum, of plum, blackberry blackberry andand blueblueberry. berry.

Bright Bright acidity acidity brings brings it to it atobeautiful a beautiful bal-balance. ance.

(13.9% (13.9% alc.,alc., 225225 cases) cases) Martin-Scott Martin-Scott Winery Winery $32$32 2012 2012 Shaw Shaw Vineyard Vineyard Malbec, Malbec, Red Red Mountain Mountain Wenatchee Wenatchee Valley Valley winemaker Mike Scott entered winemaker Mike Scott entered twotwo examples of Malbec featuring grapes from examples of Malbec featuring grapes from 50 50

Scarlet Oak Barrels Scarlet Oak Barrels $30$30 2014 2014 Spofford Spofford Station Station Vineyard Vineyard Malbec, Malbec, Walla Walla Walla Walla Valley Valley New New Walla Walla Walla Walla Valley Valley winemaker winemaker Rick Rick Sewall Sewall hashas crafted crafted a marvelous a marvelous Malbec Malbec using using grapes grapes from from Spofford Spofford Station Station Vineyard.

Vineyard.

It opens It opens with with aromas aromas of cherry, of cherry, minerals minerals andand graphite, graphite, followed followed by by H/H Estates H/H Estates $38$38 flavors flavors of dark of dark chocolate, chocolate, blueberries blueberries andand blackblack2013 2013 Coyote Coyote Canyon Canyon Vineyard Vineyard G.W. G.W. Smith Smith berries, berries, andand backed backed by by supple supple tannins tannins andand acidity acidity Reserve Reserve Malbec, Malbec, Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills Hills forfor balance. balance.

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malbec TASTING RESULTS

Kontos Cellars $44 2014 Summit View Vineyard Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Summit View Vineyard, part of the SeVein development in the southern Walla Walla Valley, is quickly being recognized as one of the elite vineyards in Northwest. This Malbec from Kontos Cellars in Walla Walla reveals aromas of plum, blueberry and hint of bell pepper followed by flavors of Loganberry, blackberry and black plum.

It sits atop a foundation of bright acidity and includes a sprinkling of cardamom. (14.5% alc., 175 cases) Tsillan Cellars $35 2014 Winemaker Select Estate Malbec, Lake Chelan Shane Collins works with estate vineyards sloping toward the south shore of Lake Chelan for this delicious Malbec. This is a classic and complex Washington Malbec with aromas of boysenberry, maple syrup and raspberry followed by flavors of plum and black currant. (15.2% alc., 190 cases) Dusty Cellars Winery $20 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley Ryan Kramer makes the wine for this young producer on Washington’s Camano Island, importing grapes from acclaimed Lonesome Spring Ranch in the Yakima Valley. This Malbec opens with aromas of raspberry, blueberry and hints of lavender and sage. Bright berry flavors lead to milk chocolate in the complex finish. (14.6% alc., 96 cases) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Clearwater Canyon Cellars $28 2014 Verhey Vineyard Malbec, Washington Verhey Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills above the Yakima Valley is proving to be among the best sources for Malbec in the Northwest. This winery owned by Karl and Coco Umiker in Lewiston, Idaho, has established a reputation for top Malbec, and this one is no exception with its aromas of vanilla, pleasing integration of oak spices, plum and blueberry, and nice acidity that leads a long finish. (15.2% alc., 202 cases) Waterbrook Winery $25 2013 Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley Each year, John Freeman seems to produce one of the most delicious and affordable Malbecs from Washington for this historic winery in Walla Walla. This example shows off aromas of rose petals, black fruit and Earl Grey tea. It’s backed by flavors of blueberry and blackberry with tannins, bright acidity and a nice mouth feel that provides good balance. (14.1% alc., 2,785 cases) Desert Wind Winery $25 2014 Malbec, Wahluke Slope Using estate grapes from the Wahluke Slope, this Prosser, Wash., winery has crafted a delicious Malbec with aromas of dark and purple fruit.

Layered flavors of white pepper, blackberry and black cherry with a foundation of firm tannins carry the fruit to a long finish. (14.3% alc., 251 cases)

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $31 2015 Golgotha Bloc Estate Malbec, Umpqua Valley Southern Oregon winemaker/grower Stephen Reustle shows he can master just about any variety, and that now includes Malbec from estate grapes.

Aromas of ripe black plum and subtle oak notes give way to flavors of blueberry milkshake and pomegranate. It’s a glass-coating wine with layers of complexity backed by rich tannins. (13.2% alc., 100 cases) Northwest Cellars $28 2013 Verhey Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley Yakima Valley native Robert Smasne is the winemaker for this Kirkland, Wash., winery. This dazzling Malbec opens with aromas of black cherry and black raspberry. Thanks to beautiful balance and bright acidity, this wine should age beautifully for the next few years. (14.1% alc., 203 cases) Robert Karl Cellars $26 2014 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Dr. Joseph Gunselman gets most from his grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills, creating a classic Malbec poured in his downtown Spokane tasting room. Subtle oak spice aromas along with notes of blueberry and plum lead to flavors of black pepper, black cherry and blueberry. Bright acidity gives this wine an array of food pairing possibilities.

(14.4% alc., 100 cases)

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Structure Cellars Winery $40 2014 Upland Malbec, Snipes Mountain Brian Grasso is winemaker for this downtown Seattle winery and uses grapes from historic Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain, a hot spot in the middle of the Yakima Valley. The resulting Malbec offers aromas of black tea, black raspberry and wet slate. It is perfectly balanced, thanks to bright acidity that helps the red and blue fruit dance across the palate. (14.9% alc., 75 cases) Waterbrook Winery $15 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley Of all the Malbecs in our tasting, this should be the easiest to track down.This Walla Walla winery, founded by Eric Rindal, has been owned by Precept Wine in Seattle for more than a decade. It remains one of the most delicious and affordable Malbec options in the Pacific Northwest, and this 2014 bottling is no exception. Aromas of black cherry augmented by French vanilla lead to flavors of blackberry and blueberry — all backed by bright beautiful acidity. Serve this with rich Italian dishes or grilled meats. (13.8% alc., 4,914 cases) Davenport Cellars $32 2011 Sheridan Vineyard Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills Northwest Wine Academy grad Jeff Jirca is the winemaker for this Woodinville winery, and he uses grapes from acclaimed Sheridan Vineyard.

His single barrel of Malbec generates aromas of black cherry, plum and vanilla followed by flavors of raspberry and hints of cardamom, cherry and green tea. The finish is punctuated by firm tannins and just a sprinkling of cocoa powder. (13.6% alc., 23 cases) Hamilton Cellars $42 2012 Malbec, Red Mountain This Red Mountain brand focuses much of its energy upon offering some of the best examples of Malbec in Washington, and Charlie Hoppes crafted this beautiful wine using grapes from Red Mountain. Aromas of plum, pomegranate, blueberry are followed by delicious flavors of blue fruit including Western serviceberry and elderberry. It all leads to a luscious mouth feel with lots of complexity in the finish. (15.4% alc., 170 cases)

Excellent Hamilton $18 Cellars 2013 Rosé of Malbec, Columbia Valley It’s not surprising that the lone rosé in this judging came from the cellar of this Red Mountain property. Aromas of cassis and blueberry lead to flavors of cherry and blueberry. Bright acidity and just a spot of tannin give this firm structure, making a perfect pairing with a wide variety of fare. (14.3% alc., 167 cases)

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Silvan Ridge Winery $26 2014 Malbec, Rogue Valley Using grapes from Southern Oregon, this longtime Eugene producer with Argentine winemaker Juan Pablo Valot at the helm has crafted a beautiful Malbec with aromas of moist earth, black tea, pipe tobacco and concrete dust. Flavors of Montmorency cherries and pomegranates are backed with firm tannins. (13.6% alc., 250 cases) Indian Creek WInery $22 2014 My Best Friend Malbec, Snake River Valley Second-generation winemaker Mike McClure has crafted a beautiful expression for this fun-loving family in the suburbs of Boise, Idaho. A pleasing balance of acidity and tannin accent aromas and flavors of black cherry, plums and pomegranate.

Each year, this wine serves as the centerpiece for a fundraiser on behalf of the Idaho Humane Society.

(13% alc., 125 cases) Smasne Cellars $26 2012 Verhey Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley Here's another delicious Malbec using grapes from Verhey Vineyard, this one crafted by winemaker Robert Smasne. Aromas of blueberry and red licorice lead to flavors of cherry, cedar and blueberry, all backed by a bright juicy acidity that combines for a long pleasant finish. (13.9% alc., 400 cases) Hamilton Cellars $60 2012 Champoux Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Using grapes from historic Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, Charlie Hoppes crafts this Malbec with aromas of tar, blueberry, moist earth and pomegranate. Followed by flavors of espresso, blueberry, blackberry and layers of complexity, the wine has a foundation of dusty minerality and bright acidity. (14.7% alc., 190 cases) Latah Creek Wine Cellars $16 2012 Alice Vineyard Malbec, Wahluke Slope The father-daughter team of Mike Conway and Natalie Conway-Barnes crafted this beautiful Malbec for their longtime Spokane winery. Aromas of toast, roasted coffee and raspberry lead to flavors of white strawberry and black currants, and finish with bright acidity and tannins. (12.5% alc., 450 cases) Pondera Winery $34 2013 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec, Columbia Valley Woodinville winemaker Shane Howard brought in grapes from highly regarded Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Columbia Valley for this delicious Malbec. Aromas of moist earth, wildflowers and a hint of graphite give way to flavors of plum, blueberry and baking spices. (14.5% alc., 200 cases)

$45 Zerba Cellars 2014 Malbec, Walla Walla Walla Walla Valley winemaker Doug Nierman uses estate grapes from the southern Walla Walla Valley, giving this Malbec aromas of blackberry, rose petals and green tea. It gives way to flavors of delicious ripe fruit, pea gravel and peat in the finish. (14.1% alc., 189 cases) Davenport Cellars $32 2013 Sheridan Vineyard Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills This Woodinville winery crafted a superb vineyard-designated Malbec featuring two barrels off famed Sheridan Vineyard. Aromas of black cherry, rose petals and cardamom funnel into memorable flavors of ripe red fruit with a perfectly balanced structure that is based an acidity rather than tannins. (14% alc., 48 cases) Tsillan Cellars $32 2014 Estate Malbec, Lake Chelan Using estate grapes from a picturesque vineyard overlooking the south shore of Lake Chelan, winemaker Shane Collins has crafted a luscious Malbec with aromas of classic black pepper, black cherry and blackberry. Followed by flavors of ripe blackberries, it’s backed by smooth tannins and great acidity. (15.1% alc., 350 cases) Rio Vista Wines $35 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker John Little is crafting delicious wines along the Columbia River just north of the Lake Chelan cutoff. This superb example of Malbec reveals aromas of cola, black cherry and bittersweet chocolate followed by flavors of pomegranate, blueberry and elderberry with a hint of black pepper in the finish. (14.5% alc., 125 cases) Tsillan Cellars $35 2013 Winemaker Select Estate Malbec, Lake Chelan Here’s another delicious, cellar selection from Shane Collins. It opens with aromas of dark and rich cherries, fruit-forward ripe fruit and a hint of nutmeg, followed by flavors of high-toned red fruit, including cranberry, cherries and a hint of ground savory. (14.9% alc., 205 cases) Tsillan Cellars $42 2013 Estate Malbec, Lake Chelan Dr. Robert Jankelson’s showpiece winery produces two expressions of Malbec, and this opens with notes of Flathead Lake cherries, a hint of mint and a nice complexity that gives way to flavors of ripe cherry, raspberry and sun-sweetened strawberries.

(14.6% alc., 238 cases) Mercer Estates Winery $55 2014 Robert Willis Spice Cabinet Vineyard Reserve Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills This Yakima Valley winery is quickly establishing itself as the top producer Malbec in the Northwest. A reserve wine named for the two brothers who spearhead the business, it leads with aromas W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

malbec TASTING RESULTS of ripe bright cherries and hint of mint. Nice complexity throughout on the palate shows off the cherries and mint and a hint of Napa Valley eucalyptus. (14.9% alc., 215 cases) Gamache Vintners $30 2012 Estate Malbec, Columbia Valley Charlie Hoppes makes the wine for this Prosser, Wash., winery, but this Malbec pulls from estate grapes grown in the Columbia Basin. The resulting wine shows off aromas of cola, blueberry and Bing cherry followed by flavors of bright cherry, blueberry and pomegranate. Hints of minerality add complexity throughout. (14.9% alc., 293 cases) Five Star Cellars $38 2012 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley The Huse family remains one of the top red wine producers in Walla Walla, and this Malbec poured at the historic airport complex shows their skill with this Bordeaux variety. Aromas of rosehips and dried blueberries give way to flavors that focus on dark blue fruit with dusty tannins. It is a robust wine with abundant aging potential. (14.9% alc., 410 cases) Pondera Winery $45 2013 Stillwater Creek Vineyard RSV Malbec, Columbia Valley Shane Howard crafts the wines for this top Woodinville winery. Aromas of plum, mocha and juniper berry lead to flavors of pomegranate, ripe cherry and a long, juicy finish that overtakes the big, grippy tannins, bringing this wine into perfect harmony. (14.6% alc., 56 cases)

Abacela $28 2014 Barrel Select Estate Malbec, Umpqua Valley Winemaker Andrew Wenzl works with vines planted in 1995 to produce this cellar selection for founders Earl and Hilda Jones. Aromas of beets, black cherry and intense dark berry fruit and vanilla lead to flavors of blueberry and pomegranate that are backed by bright acidity for a long finish. (14% alc., 468 cases) Ellensburg Canyon Winery $25 2009 Cox Canyon Vineyards Malbec, Columbia Valley Winemaker Gary Cox makes the wine for this small producer near Ellensburg, Wash. These two barrels come together to offer a beautiful balance between oak and acidity with flavors and aromas that range from ripe cherries to bright strawberry, raspberry and even hints of blueberry and blackberry in the palate. (14.3% alc., 56 cases) Bunnell Family Cellar $38 2011 Northridge Vineyard Malbec, Wahluke Slope Prosser winemaker Ron Bunnell is perhaps best known for his superb Rhône reds, yet his talents easily carry over for a well-balanced Malbec that shows off aromas of plum and black cherry, along

Milbrandt Vineyards $42 2013 Northridge Vineyard Malbec, Wahluke Slope Northridge Vineyard is in the heart of the Wahluke Slope and it ranks among Milbrandt’s most prized sites. Now-departed winemaker Josh Maloney crafted a beautifully complex Malbec with aromas of blueberry and dark cherries followed by flavors of blueberry, pomegranate — with a good grip of black tea tannins and beautiful acidity.

(15.5% alc., 94 cases) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Maryhill Winery $36 2012 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley New Zealand-born Richard Batchelor remains one of the Pacific Northwest’s leaders with this gorgeous example of Malbec that casts off nice dark chocolate and violet aromas, followed by flavors of raspberry, chocolate and bright red cherry fruit.

Light tannin provides just the right structure.

(13.9% alc., 265 cases) Indian Creek WInery $22 2013 Quinn My Best Friend Malbec, Snake River Valley Bill Stowe is one of the winemaking pioneers of the Snake River Valley, and his daughter Tammy and son-in-law Mike McClure have made sure Indian Creek remains one of Idaho’s most popular brands. This delicious and affordable Malbec opens with aromas of black cherry, plum and a hint of cardamom – with just a little bit of black pepper on the palate. It shows off blue and black fruits including black cherry and finishes with a sprinkle of cocoa powder. (13% alc., 100 cases)

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Blooms Winery on Whidbey $32 2014 Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills Whidbey Island winemaker Ken Bloom is well into his second decade as a producer, and he brought in grapes from the Yakima Valley for the delicious and beautiful Malbec. Classic aromas of white pepper, clove and blueberry give way to flavors of juicy pomegranate, blueberry backed by light tannin. (14.3% alc., 86 cases) Reininger Winery $59 2014 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Longtime Walla Walla winemaker Chuck Reininger shows his talents with this Bordeaux grape with complex aromas of rosehips and barbecue rub that lead to big flavors of blueberry, teriyaki, robust tannins and a wealth of acidity. (14.5% alc., 388 cases)

with notes of black pepper and flavors of blueberry, plum and strawberry. This should age beautifully. (14.2% alc., 151 cases)

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Kiona Vineyards and Winery $35 2014 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Estate Malbec, Red Mountain With one of the newest plantings on Red Mountain, the Williams family is proving Heart of the Hill to be one of the best vineyards in the state of Washington. This estate wine from second-generation winemaker Scott Williams makes this point, thanks to aromas of light plum, blackberries and dark chocolate followed by flavors of raspberry and dark chocolate. (14.5% alc., 280 cases) Maryhill Winery $24 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley This Columbia Gorge destination goes beyond their reserve program for this Malbec, which opens with aromas of blackberries and black tea, followed by long, smooth flavors of black and blue fruit. It is backed by bright acidity, taught tannins and a complex finish. (13.5% alc., 2,013 cases) Maragas Winery $29 2014 Terrebonne Malbec, Oregon Doug Maragas is the winemaker for this Central Oregon winery he founded in 1999. Terrebonne translates to “good earth,” and his luscious expression of Malbec offers aromas of black cherry, plum and menthol, followed by flavors of black cherry backed by smooth tannins and bright acidity.

(14.1% alc., 197 cases) Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $31 2014 Golgotha Bloc Estate Malbec, Umpqua Valley Our Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year pays tribute to a historic site outside of Jerusalem with this release of Malbec. It rises with aromas of mint, blueberry and moist earth and hints of cardamom and cocoa powder, followed by heavenly flavors of pomegranate, blueberry and sweet cherry. It's all backed by fine-grained tannins and beautifully balanced acidity. (13.7% alc., 225 cases) Spoiled Dog Winery $24 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley Karen Krug makes the wines produced on her 25 acres the south end of Whidbey Island, and while she pursues a passion for Pinot Noir grown on her property, she brings in Malbec from vaunted Conner Lee Vineyard near the Columbia Basin town of Othello. She captures aromas of sweet dark strawberry and black cherry, which are backed by supple and juicy flavors of black currants, ripe blackberry and plum. Refined tannins and beautifully balanced acidity gives this a sense of charm. (14.3% alc., 108 cases) Milbrandt Vineyards $42 2013 The Estates Malbec, Wahluke Slope The Milbrandts sourced from their prized Northridge Vineyard (56%) and Clifton Bluff Vineyard for this inky and insistent Malbec under their consistently superb Estates tier. Baker’s chocolate, blueberry and dark mulberry aromas include mint, dried sage and Californian pepper. Inside are huge flavors of blackberry with cherry skin tannins, 54

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capped by mint, Earl Grey tea, chocolate and blueberry pie juice. (14.5% alc., 1,430 cases) Hood Crest Winery $42 2012 Vintner’s Select Malbec, Columbia Valley Blues guitarist Tess Barr also performs as the winemaker for her boutique project in Hood River, Ore. She relied on Raptor River Vineyard across the Columbia River in nearby Wishram, Wash., to develop aromas of blackberry, blueberry, plum and spice. Those yield to flavors of raspberry, red currants, ripe blackberry and blueberry. Bright acidity closes it out nicely. (13.8% alc., 125 cases) Nefarious Cellars $35 2014 Defiance Vineyard Malbec, Lake Chelan Dean Neff spearheads the red program along the south shore of the Lake Chelan winery that he and wife Heather have built into near cult status. This beautiful Malbec opens with aromas of loganberry, plum, blackberry and a hint of spice followed by flavors of loganberry and blueberry. It's a pretty wine throughout with a structure the leads with acidity rather than tannin. (14.6% alc., 180 cases) Castillo de Feliciana Vineyards & Winery $38 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley Chris Castillo, a graduate of College Cellars, is winemaker for his family’s growing winery on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. This Malbec reveals classic aromas of blackberry, raspberry and black pepper. It is loaded with fruit that echoes in the aromas, including ripe blackberry and strawberry. (14.4% alc., 494 cases) Wind Rose Cellars $25 2014 Lonesome Spring Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley David Volmut studied at Yakima Valley College and trained at Olsen Estates in Prosser prior to launching his own winery on the Olympic Peninsula. Those Yakima Valley roots show with this Malbec grown at Lonesome Spring Ranch. This youthful example offers aromas of Jolly Rancher grape candy, blueberry and Chukar Cherries enrobed in bittersweet chocolate. Inside, it’s a smooth and easy drink of juicy blue fruit amid a medium tannin structure that leads to finishing notes of black raspberry, red plum and dark chocolate. These wines are available at the Sequim tasting room and throughout the Olympic Peninsula. (13% alc., 120 cases) South Stage Cellars $28 2012 Malbec, Rogue Valley Urban winemaker Linda Donovan crafts the Malbec for the Moore family, which grows much of the fruit in Oregon’s Rogue Valley. Aromas of fresh cedar and Bing cherry give way to flavors of pomegranate and red currant, with a bright acidity that emphasizes the juiciness. These wines are available at Don and Traute Moore’s tasting room in historic downtown Jacksonville. (13.4% alc., 175 cases)

Davenport Cellars $32 2010 Kiona Vineyards Malbec, Red Mountain Using grapes from one of the oldest plantings on Red Mountain, winemaker Jeff Jirka crafted a beautiful Malbec with fresh aromas of blueberry, cherry and spice notes followed by flavors of cherry vanilla and a structure of acidity and light tannins. (13.5% alc., 25 cases) Hamilton Cellars $32 2011 Malbec, Columbia Valley Winemaker Charlie Hoppes blends grapes from diverse sources including Olsen Vineyard, Conner Lee and Gamache, then cellared the juice in oak for 23 months in a program of 80% new oak. The resulting Malbec emerges with a flash of black cherry, black pepper and bacon fat aromas. On the palate, there is beautiful fruit on the entry and bright acidity on the big finish thanks to taut tannins. (14.3% alc., 240 cases) DeLille Cellars $49 2014 Red Willow Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley Chris Upchurch, one of Washington’s most respected winemakers, teams up with storied Yakima Valley grower Mike Sauer for this gorgeous Malbec. The result is aromas of blackberry and plum, followed by flavors of white pepper and ripe red and black fruit. It is a robust wine that will pair well with grilled meats or should age well for a half decade or more. (14.1% alc., 345 cases) Bonair Winery $24 2012 Château Puryear Vineyard Estate Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills The Puryears made this great Malbec from estate grapes in the Rattlesnake Hills. Fascinating aromas of orange oil, red plum, cedar and cinder dust lead to flavors of Bing cherries and red currants. Finegrained tannins lead to a long and memorable finish. (13.9% alc., 112 cases) Agate Ridge Vineyard $28 2012 Estate Malbec, Southern Oregon Brian Denner and Matt Cates work on the wines for this young winery in Central Point, Ore. Their delicious example of Malbec follows up their acclaimed 2011 vintage by opening with aromas of cola, mocha and blueberry jam. Next are flavors of bright red fruit and peppercorns as firm tannins provide a bit of grip on the back. (14.3% alc., 150 cases) William Church Winery $40 2014 Gamache Vineyards Fiona’s Vintage Malbec, Columbia Valley Noah Fox Reed’s first vintage in Woodinville for Rod and Leslie Balsley marks a continuation of impressive work of Malbec. Their tradition of sourcing from Gamache Vineyards for Malbec, now owned by the Sagemoor Group, makes for a vibrant wine with aromas of dusty gravel and cherry tobacco. Jammy, juicy and consumer-friend-

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malbec TASTING boiseRESULTS FE ATURE ly flavors of sweet cherries and orange zest make for long and bright finish. (14.5% alc., 420 cases) Gamache Vintners $30 2011 Estate Malbec, Columbia Valley Charlie Hoppes, one Washington’s magicians with Malbec, uses estate grapes to produce this for the Gamache family’s tasting room in Prosser. Long aromas of boysenberry, cocoa powder and blackberry jam and hints of vanilla are chased by flavors of boysenberry, blackberry and sweet cherry. Its subtext is one of ample acidity and just a touch of tannin. (14.9% alc., 449 cases) Martin-Scott Winery $32 2013 Shaw Vineyard Malbec, Red Mountain Using grapes from Shaw Vineyard on the lower benches of Red Mountain, this East Wenatchee winery has crafted a superb Malbec with aromas of black cherry, plum and spice followed by flavors of blackberry, blackcurrant. Its deep fruit leads to a long finish. With a bit more time in the bottle, it likely will achieve an equal footing to the showy bottling from 2012. (13.8% alc., 103 cases) Nine Hats Wines $25 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley The Nine Hats label is part of the Long Shadows project in Walla Walla, and lots of Malbec that don’t quite fit into Michel Rolland’s acclaimed Pedestal program earn the spotlight here. Complex aromas of black cherry, plum and sweet herbs pick up a scant dusting of cocoa powder in the background. Flavors of black cherry and milk chocolate shine on the palate. The finish is backed by bright acidity and just a hint of tannin. (15.3% alc., 500 cases) Valley View Winery $26 2014 Valley View Vineyard Malbec, Oregon The Wisnovsky family in Jacksonville helped blaze the trail for Southern Oregon's modern day wine industry. Using estate grapes, they have crafted a Malbec with fruit-forward aromas of black raspberry and plum. Those are followed by flavors of black raspberry, black cherry and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. Its drawn-out finish is memorable.

(423 cases) COR Cellars $32 2014 Hogback Ridge Vineyard Malbec, Columbia Valley Evergreen College product Luke Bradford makes the wine for his decade-old brand on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge in the town of Lyle. The focus here is on grapes from Hogback Ridge Vineyard just south of The Dalles, Ore. That high-elevation site makes for a fascinating Malbec. Dense aromas of dark blue fruit, cherry pipe tobacco and mint lead to flavors of cherry jam, blueberry and pomegranate. (15.2% alc., 300 cases)

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Lopez Island Vineyards $26 2015 Malbec, Yakima Valley This longtime winery in the San Juans looks to Eastern Washington vineyards for its red wines.

Brent Charnley’s youthful Malbec features aromas of cherry juice, fruit leather, blueberry, mint and gunmetal, which pave the way for flavors of cranberry, cherry, pomegranate and sweet cherries.

Ample tannin supplies plenty of structure for grilled meats. (14% alc., 120 cases) Lujon Wine Cellars $30 2014 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Lewis Derthick and his winemaking son John — Lew/John — created their brand a decade ago to offer customers in Carlton, Ore., the convenience of tasting Burgundy-inspired wines from Oregon alongside small lots of Bordeaux-influenced reds from warmer regions. Here, John pulled Malbec from Birch Creek Vineyard near the Walla Walla Valley town of Milton-Freewater, Ore., and then aged it it for two years in French oak. It comes out offering aromas of dusty blueberries and black cherries enrobed in bittersweet chocolate. It’s yummy inside with more cherry, blueberry and chocolate flavors, framed by refined tannins and burst of pomegranate acidity. (15.3% alc., 50 cases)

Goose Ridge Vineyards $52 2014 Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley Andrew Wilson arrived at Goose Ridge Vineyards from Walla Walla in time to shape this Malbec, grown by the Monson family within its 2,000-acre estate. There’s a beautiful extraction that shows intense, deep purple color while offering dark blueberry, Marionberry and tar aromas with sweet cigar leaf. Those same purple fruit tones rush through to the palate, bringing an intense and penetrating finish of pomegranate and bittersweet chocolate. (14.9% alc., 100 cases) Wilridge Winery $23 2015 Conley Vineyard Organic Malbec, Columbia Valley Seattle vintner Paul Beveridge crafted this luscious and classic Malbec using a vineyard in the Naches Heights near his tasting room west of Yakima.

Aromas of pink peppercorns, pie cherries and toasted sesame seeds lead to flavors of strawberry, watermelon, cherry and rhubarb. Firm tannins give this Malbec plenty of structure. (13.9% alc., 300 cases) Lost River Winery $28 2013 Massif, Columbia Valley John Morgan makes the wine for this NorthCentral Washington winery, and their proprietary

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TA STING RESULTS

malbec

name for this bottling refers to their setting among the North Cascades. Stone Valley Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley highlights this bottling, which incorporates Syrah (17%). Aromas of spice, vanilla and orange oil lead to flavors of blueberries, bright cherries and raspberries. (14.8% alc., 300 cases)

harvested during the first week of October. It then spent all of its barrel time in 2-year-old French oak. Aromas of sweet strawberries, black raspberries, cherry and pipe tobacco give way to flavors of big ripe blackberries, cherries and dark chocolate. (14.1% alc., 85 cases)

Browne Family Vineyards $35 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley This high-end Malbec by John Freeman for Precept Wine in Seattle opens with aromas of dark toast, blueberry jam and white pepper followed by flavors of bright pomegranate and juicy raspberries. These wines, the namesake brand for CEO Andrew Browne, are poured in downtown Walla Walla. (13.9% alc., 384 cases)

Edward Lynne Cellars $23 2014 Airfield Ranch Malbec, Yakima Valley This new winery on Camano Island brought in grapes from the Miller family’s 900-acre vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It's a fruit-forward wine that presents aromas of blackberries, blueberries and plums with flavors redolent of bright dark fruit and baking spices. (13.6% alc., 60 cases)

Lopez Island Vineyards $26 2014 Malbec, Yakima Valley Crawford Vineyard just north of downtown Prosser, Wash., is a breadbasket for this remarkable winery among the San Juan Islands. Aromas of black currants, black cherry and moist earthiness transition into charming flavors of raspberry, ripe strawberry and Bing cherries. (14% alc., 110 cases) Eleganté Cellars $36 2009 Malbec, Walla Walla Retired educator Doug Simmons brought in grapes from nearby Les Collines Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley for his Malbec. It exhibits classic aromas of black raspberry and blackberry, and shows off similar flavors on the palate, which finishes with a near absence of alcohol. His emphasis of acidity over tannins helps describe a structure that seems to be a blueprint for many examples of Malbec produced in the Pacific Northwest. (11.8% alc., 92 cases)

Season Cellars $30 2013 Malbec, Southern Oregon Second-generation vintner Scotty Henry is headquartered in the Umpqua Valley, but he brings fruit in from the Rogue Valley for this spot-on Malbec. Aromas of toasted oak, black cherry, vanilla and mulberry are mirrored on the palate and joined by Marionberry. This easy drinking wine emphasizes acidity over tannin. (13.7% alc., 218 cases) Blooms Winery on Whidbey Island

$32

2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley Ken Bloom fleshes out this Malbec with some Syrah, resulting in a wine that unveils aromas of dark toast and blueberry. Hints of cherry cola are followed by flavors of sweet blueberries and pomegranate. A whisper of tannin adds satisfying grip and complexity. (14.5% alc., 145 cases)

Harbinger Winery $26 2013 Malbec, Wahluke Slope Sara Gagnon operates the most northwestern winery in the Pacific Northwest, just west of Port Angeles near the start of scenic Highway 101. Her complex Malbec showcases aromas of graphite, gravel dust, black pepper and blueberry followed by flavors of dark purple fruit, pomegranate and blueberry. It is backed by firm tannins that will pair well with grilled meats. (13.9% alc., 235 cases)

Otis Kenyon Wine $40 2013 Phinny Hill Vineyard Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Walla Walla veteran winemaker Dave Stephenson brought in grapes from famed Phinny Hill Vineyard, the Beightol family’s site in the Horse Heaven Hills. Aromas of strawberries, dried cherry,

Good food. Good friends. Always!

Recommended Snake River Winery $20 2011 Arena Valley Vineyard Malbec, Snake River Valley Owner/winemaker Scott DeSeelhorst brought in these grapes from his estate Arena Valley Vineyard near Parma, Idaho. It broadcasts aromas of pipe tobacco, black cherry and plum, which lead into flavors of ripe dark fruit with the bright acidity found in so many Idaho wines. (13.6% alc., 170 cases)

we make it right here ... fresh local authentic traditional

Northwest Cellars $48 2013 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Malbec, Red Mountain Winemaker Robert Smasne and vintner Bob Delf brought in grapes from Scooteney Flats Vineyard on Red Mountain for this Malbec. Aromas of chocolate, plums and spice cascade into flavors of black raspberries and red plums, with firm tannins on the finish. (14.1% alc., 68 cases) Abacela $42 2014 East Hill Block Reserve Malbec, Umpqua Valley This longtime Umpqua Valley producer focused its attention for this delicious project on fruit 56

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Visconti’s Leavenworth WA

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malbec TASTING RESULTS cedar and a hint of graphite lead to flavors of juicy strawberries and Rainier cherries. A pleasing structure makes this an easy-drinking wine. (14.4% alc., 162 cases) Cana’s Feast Winery $32 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley Patrick Taylor heads up the production at this Carlton, Ore., winery, but he crossed the Columbia River to get Horse Heaven Hills grapes from Destiny Ridge and Roosevelt Ridge for this delectable Malbec. Aromas of Bing cherry, cedar and red plum give way to flavors of black cherry and vanilla spice. Ample tannins provide all the structure this wine needs. (13.9% alc., 248 cases) Hood Crest Winery $28 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley Visitors to the recently opened tasting cabin at the Barr family’s winery on Orchard Road in Hood River, Ore., will enjoy the aromas of cedar, strawberry and raspberry emerging from this youthful Malbec. It comes with flavors of red currant and chokecherry as minerality adds a layer of heady complexity. (13.5% alc., 200 cases)

Cave B Estate Winery $38 2013 Cave B Vineyards Malbec, Columbia Valley Walla Walla-trained winemaker Freddy Arredondo uses estate grapes from the western edge of the dramatic and beautiful Ancient Lakes appellation.

Aromas of cedar, dusty black currant and cinnamon lead to flavors of red currant, boysenberry and raspberry, backed by long acidity that will serve this well alongside Sear Lamb Loin at Tendrils — the family’s on-premise restaurant. (14.7% alc., 266 cases) is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. He also is the Sunday wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

ANDY PERDUE

MALBEC by the numbers

Here are a few interesting statistics from our Malbec judging: ❧ Entries: 101 ❧ Rated “Outstanding!” — 28 (28%) ❧ Rated “Excellent” — 55 (54%) ❧ Rated “Recommended” — 11 (11%) ❧ Average price — $32 ❧ Average alcohol — 14.25% ❧ Total cases represented — 30,825

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FEATURE

walla walla vintners

Myles Anderson sells his share of Walla Walla Vintners

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

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ALLA WALLA, Wash. — Wine industry icon Myles Anderson has been looking for someone to help Walla Walla Vintners take the next step as he moves aside. And the timing seems ideal for Portland software developer Scott Haladay to join co-founder Gordy Venneri as co-owner.

So in late February an ownership transition began for one of Walla Walla Valley’s oldest producers, a winery bonded in 1995 that has served as a leader among the critical second wave of wineries. It has followed in the footsteps of Leonetti Cellar, Woodward Canyon, L’Ecole No. 41, Waterbrook and Seven Hills Winery.

“I needed to find a situation where I can complement the talent that’s already there,” Haladay told Great Northwest Wine. “Gordy and I are a good interpersonal fit as well.

With his winemaking and sales skills, and my business operation skills, we will complement each other very well.”

Great Northwest Wine learned of the sale in advance. Terms of the sale were not disclosed as Anderson, age 76, moves into a role described as “ambassador.”

“After over 35 years of making, serving and promoting wine, it’s time for me to focus on sharing it with friends, family and our customers,” Anderson said in a statement released by the winery. “I’m thankful for what Walla Walla Vintners is today, and I am looking forward to enjoying its next chapter.”

Venneri, 63, said, “I am very grateful for all that Myles and I accomplished together. We founded Walla Walla’s eighth winery and helped make history in one of America’s most exciting and dynamic wine regions. I am also happy that Walla Walla Vintners will continue to be run as a partnership with the complementary and demonstrated business expertise brought by the Haladay family.”

Anderson played a critical role in establishing Walla Walla Community College’s vit58

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Long-time friends Gordy Venneri (left) and Miles Anderson launched Walla Walla Vintners in 1995, a winery recognized as one of the region’s finest producers for nearly two decades. Anderson announced the sale of his shares in February.

File photo by Colby Kuschaka, CDK Imaging.

iculture and enology program in 2000. He was inducted into the Legends of Washington Wine Hall of Fame in 2011 and received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers in 2014.

Last year, Wine Press Northwest magazine named Walla Walla Vintners its 2016 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.

There was a public retirement celebration for Anderson on Saturday, Feb. 25, at Walla Walla Vintners. Three generations of the Haladay family were there to welcome guests.

“I’m very lucky that there is an industry icon associated with the brand,” Haladay said.

“And I’m sure I will see him at Walla Walla Country Club.”

VonMetzger to remain as winemaker Arguably the most important component of Walla Walla Vintners — head winemaker William vonMetzger — will remain in place, Haladay said.

“We looked at a lot of different properties,

but Walla Walla Vintners stood out,” Haladay said. “I went back and forth to Walla Walla 11 times in six months. My goal is, ‘Just don’t screw it up.’ It’s a pretty easy position to be in, and I have the right network in place.”

Meanwhile, many of the changes in store for Walla Walla Vintners are focused on enhancing the guest experience and heightening the awareness in the marketplace for the iconic red barn.

“It just needs some updating,” Haladay said. “Our customers will find a more comfortable and welcoming experience.”

In fact, work on remodeling the tasting room and the second floor is under way.

Among the upgrades will be transitioning what Haladay jokingly referred to as the “bachelor pad” on the second floor into a special area for club members.

“The bones are beautiful,” Haladay said.

“I’m excited that I didn’t inherit someone’s $2 million design that you don’t like. The view of the Blue Mountains with the snow is beautiful.”

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

walla walla vintners FEATURE Portland native looks forward to regional work Haladay, 40, graduated from Lakeridge High School in the Portland suburb of Lake Oswego before he went to Georgetown University, where he earned a degree in computer science. He and his wife, Nici, have two small children, including a son born Jan. 29. Haladay’s new investment in Walla Walla Vintners and pending move to the Walla Walla Valley fits in with the next stage of his life.

“My desires are one) be a good father and two) find an opportunity to buy into other business opportunity and operate it with a partner for many years to come,” Haladay said.

Their separation of powers will be easy in many instances.

“Getting Gordy to handle purchasing orders and pay vendors is not the best use of his skills,” Haladay said. “He’s a salesperson and a wine guy. He’s great in front of customers and making them feel good about learning the process and the story behind the wine. They end up feeling part of the community.”

Haladay will continue to maintain a residence in the Portland area, primarily during the winter months when he can be closer to a major airport and work West Coast markets.

He considered exploring winery investment opportunities in the Willamette Valley, but the bucolic feel of the Walla Walla Valley and open spaces won out for Haladay and his family.

“Whereas the epicenter of the North Willamette Valley is Dundee, Newberg and McMinnville, the traffic is oppressive,” he said. “Trying to go through Dundee on (Highway) 99 is painful. It doesn’t matter when. Even on a Tuesday morning, it still sucks.

“The Allison (Inn in Newberg ) is beautiful and what the Austin family has created there is very special, but Walla Walla to me makes more sense,” Haladay added. “There’s a central downtown. It’s gentrified. There’s good infrastructure in place, and they are building more. Don’t get me wrong. I love their wines in the Willamette Valley, but Walla Walla has a lot of room to grow — and it will continue to be special.”

Portland family continues down entrepreneurial path Haladay’s interest in the wine industry intensified during his work in Australia on W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Scott Haladay and his wife Nici are new co-owners of Walla Walla Vintners.

Eric Degerman Great Northwest Wine

behalf of Viewpoint Construction Software, a company his family sold in 2014 to Bain Capital for a reported $230 million.

Soon after, members of Haladay’s family created their own investment fund called 10 Branch to assist young regional startups.

“Our father allocated funds to give back to the tech investment community,” Haladay said.

Haladay’s father, Jay, was named the 2013 Oregon Tech Executive by the Oregonian newspaper.

While his brothers are involved with 10 Branch, Walla Walla Vintners “will be operated totally outside of it,” Scott Haladay said.

“My father has always been an entrepreneur, and he’s proud to see me do my own thing.”

As a software developer, Haladay said his clients included Western Beverage Co., and Morgan Distributing in Oregon.

“I’m intimately familiar with how beer and wine wholesalers operate,” he said.

His role in the wine industry will be different.

“The story of Walla Walla Vintners is a great story, but not that many people know it in Portland, and that’s exciting for me,” Haladay said. “I’ll be looking to give more exposure in my hometown to a brand that I’m a co-owner of.”

‘Excitingly boring growth for Walla Walla Vintners’ Anderson and Venneri began making wine together in Walla Walla as a hobby during the early 1980s. The two Walla Walla Community College instructors went commercial in 1995 with 600 cases. Haladay said production from the 2014 vintage climbed toward 8,000 cases.

“It’s hard to say where we’ll grow,” he said.

“The facility has its physical constraints, so I don’t see us materially growing in the near future, but there are adjustments that can be made to the business model.”

Among those changes will be expanded tasting room hours and seated tastings. When asked if he’ll explore some winemaking himself, Haladay said, “Definitely not. Critical acclaim has come for the wines, and why would I want to change that? That would just be stupid.

“There are places where I’ll have an impact, but I doubt the consumer will see much change other than the enhancement of the customers’ interaction,” he added.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS March 23-26 Taste Washington, Seattle. The 20th anniversary of Washington's signature wine event includes two days of public tasting and education at CenturyLink Field Event Center. Tickets start at $90. Go to tastewashington.org.

25 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. More than 30 Northwest wineries take center stage at the 28th annual fundraiser for Saint Martin's University from noon to 9 p.m. Tickets start at $15. Contact 360-438-4366 or go to capitalfoodandwinefestival.com.

April 7 Columbia Gorge Wine Experience, Portland. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River pour at Leftbank Annex.

Go to columbiagorgewine.com.

7-8 LeMay Wine & Chocolate, Tacoma, Wash. The Marymount Event Center plays host to local wines, spirits, chocolates and more than 70 vendors. Cost is $25. Go to lemaymarymount.org.

7-8 Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamins Edgefield Winery brings in winemakers and distributors from the Northwest and beyond for the 16th annual Syrah showdown. Go to celebrationofsyrah.com.

8-9 North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend. Gaston, Ore. More than 20 members of the North Willamette Vintners group offer tastings, culinary samples, education and events. Tickets start at $30. Go to nwvintners.org.

22-23 and 29-30 Chelan Nouveau, Lake Chelan, Wash.

Nearly 30 member wineries around the Lake Chelan are ready to debut whites and rosés on successive weekends. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

28-30 Northwest Wine Encounter at Semiahmoo, Blaine, Wash. Spend a weekend of wine, food and education at Semiahmoo Resort with winemakers Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar, Chris Upchurch of DeLille Cellars, David Merfeld of Northstar Winery, Tony Rynders of Panther Creek and Walter Gehringer of Gehringer Brothers. Go to semiahmoo.com.

28-30 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases more than 40 wineries and special seminars in the Northwest's oldest appellation. Cost is $35. Go to wineyakimavalley.org.

6-7 Chehalis Valley Wine Tour, Centralia, Wash. This seventh annual tour spotlights six wineries. Call 360-623-1106 or go to chehalisvalleywinetour.com.

12-14 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Cork District wineries continue to open their doors to visitors on Mother’s Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net.

12-14 Mom’s Weekend on Sunnyslope Wine Trail, Caldwell, Idaho. The Sunnyslope Wine District offers concerts, free flowers, special tastings and more to mothers. Go to sunnyslopewinetrail.org.

20 Northwest Corks and Crush, Puyallup, Wash. Wineries in Oregon and Washington pour to help fund services at MultiCare Good Samaritan Hospital. Go to multicare.org/corksandcrush.

20-21 Spring Barrel Tasting, Lake Chelan, Wash. This annual event showcases more than 30 wineries who pour samples straight from the barrel. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

27-29 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country. Willamette Valley, Ore. More than 150 wineries participate in the 26th year of the event. Go to willamettewines.com.

27-29 Columbia Gorge Grape to Table Weekend. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River participate in tourist events during Memorial Day weekend. Go to columbiagorgewine.com

June 3 Leavenworth Summer Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash. More than 20 regional wineries gather to pour at 20 downtown spots. Go to cascadefarmlands.com.

11 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission stages its ninth annual event pairing Idaho’s top wines with regional cuisine at the Idaho Botanical Garden. Go to savoridaho.org.

15-17 Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine. This fifth annual event gathers more than 60 Walla Walla Valley winemakers and others from around the world to explore Syrah. Go to wallawallawine.com/celebrate.

24 Cycle de Vine, Chelan, Wash. The tour enters its eighth year and takes riders across the lake to visit some of the region’s top wineries. Go to cyclechelan.com.

28-30 Astoria Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival, Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries while enjoying seafood at the mouth of the Columbia River. This marks the event's 35th year. Go to oldoregon.com.

May 4-14 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to thewinefestivals.com.

5-7 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. Also known as "Leonetti Weekend," this is one of two weekends when nearly every winery in the valley is open. Go to wallawallawine.com.

6 Wine and Art in the Park, Marsing, Idaho. The Sunnyslope Wine Trail and Marsing Chamber of Commerce partner on this third annual event. Go to sunnyslopewinetrail.org.

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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LULU CRAFT BAR + KITCHEN

KEEPS IT IN THE FAMILY WITH ESTATE INGREDIENTS STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

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ICHLAND, Wash. — Columbia Valley restaurateur Cindy Goulet can make a few claims that would resonate with the local wine industry she adores.

LuLu Craft Bar + Kitchen offers guests at her year-old restaurant on Richland’s Columbia Point a menu built upon estate beef, estate swine, estate potatoes and estate onions.

“I never thought of it that way, but that’s awesome,” Goulet beams. “It’s definitely farm-to-table. A lot of people say that, but we truly are. The beef and the pork, the potatoes and the onions all are from my family’s farm.”

Goulet herself is a product of Easterday Farms near Basin City, a graduate of Connell High School — Class of ‘86 — and a proud alumna of Washington State University. While the restaurant name is derived from Goulet’s middle name Lu, the concept of LuLu blends four generations of farming, her enjoyment of the Washington wine industry and her hospitality business management degree from WSU. “I used to hate my middle name so much that I took it off my license when I got married,” Goulet said. “My mom couldn’t believe it when we decided to use it for the restaurant, so it’s come full circle. And at the end of the day, I think people can remember it.”

Lu Lu Craft Bar and Kitchen is located at 606 Columbia Point Drive in Richland 70

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Both of her parents, Gale and Karen, take a proud interest in LuLu. “We’re a pretty tight family, so it works pretty well,” she said. “When I went off to college, I wasn’t really interested in the farm, so it’s amazing to come back 25 years later and be using items from the farm. It’s a cool thing for me and my family.”

Her husband, Brian, served as the general contractor for LuLu, which seats 190 inside and 160 outside when weather permits. The footprint at Columbia Point is round, and she wanted to maximize the proximity to the river and the marina.

“It was a little bit tense at times,” she said with smile. “I didn’t make it easy for Brian, but I think we have the best view in the Tri-Cities. And the marina was a huge part of our success in the summer.”

LuLu opened April 4, 2016, and new development continues to swirl around her restaurant, but anyone using the Tri-Cities Airport would have walked past Goulet’s 3 Eyed Fish Wine Bar and one of her restaurants - Florentyna’s. The original opened in 1993 at the Uptown Shopping Center in Richland, a five-minute drive from Columbia Point, but there also was a second in Kennewick.

“I had spent a year in Italy so I decided I was going to open a quick-service Italian restaurant,” she said. “It was a tiny little place, but we’d have a line out the door for lunch.”

The airport terminal’s $42 million expansion, combined with the Port of Pasco’s agreement with an out-of-town concessionaire, led to a change of plans for Goulet.

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It meant closing both Florentyna’s and 3 Eyed Fish at the airport, ending an 18-year relationship. Goulet now operates 3 Eyed Fish in south Richland less than a mile from three wineries and a tasting room.

Meanwhile, land became available at Columbia Point for her LuLu concept. Nearby, Kirkland-based Anthony’s Restaurants operates two locations.

“My dad has been my partner since I was 25 years old, but I really brought him back in on this,” she said. “You can see Anthony’s here, but for an independent to come in and do this, it’s a big deal.”

Years of menu development shows up at LuLu in different ways. Among the more notable items is the Caesar Salad, which includes Goulet’s own dressing, but there’s virtually something for anyone, including Hand-Cut Potato Crisps with three choices of dips, barbecued ribs, Fried Chicken & Waffle and Rigatoni Bolognese. That Italian dish, which she brought over from Floren-

Bright colors and snappy design elements reflect the cheery feel of the restaurant.

Sous chef Brendon Shirley oversees a thriving lunch crowd.

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NHV Wines $15 2015 Strand Vineyard Pinot Gris, Naches Heights — 400 cases, 13% alcohol There are fewer than 40 acres planted in the Naches Heights American Viticultural Area, making it Washington’s least explored appellation, but 12-acre Strand Vineyard ranks among the highest elevation sites in the state at 1,900 feet.

That aspect, the soils of wind-blown loess, surrounding shrub-steppe habitat and highly sensitive viticultural practices make wines from this region especially fascinating.

It’s a particularly beautiful and serene AVA, established in 2012 as the 12th in the state, and offers views of Mount Adams and the Cowiche Canyon Conservancy. The appellation reaches to 2,100 feet.

Vintner/viticulturist Phil Cline, who played basketball at Central Washington University for coaching great Dean Nicholson, grew up in the Naches Heights and spearheads the vineyard programs throughout the AVA. Strand Vineyard carries the Certified Sustainable L.I.V.E. logo as well as that of the Salmon Safe program. In fact, Cline farms all seven vineyards in the AVA using either biodynamic or sustainable practices.

Strand Vineyard earned headlines in 2015 after Yakima Valley College students won a gold medal with its Tempranillo at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival. Nearly a year later, that same wine finished as the highest-rated red wine at the 2016 Best of the Best judging for Wine Press Northwest magazine, meriting a Double Platinum. Strand also grows Cinsault, Graciano, Malbec and Syrah, as well as aromatic whites Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris.

As a result, Cline works with several vintners for his brand. In the case of the 2015 Strand Vineyard Pinot Gris, it was Mark Wysling at Parejas Cellars in Grandview.

It carries a similar profile to Cline’s 2014 Pinot Gris, which earned a double gold medal at the 2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. A touch of skin contact gives it a slight peachy tinge with a nose of orchard fruit, starfruit and jasmine. It is backed by brisk flavors of Bosc pear, melon and Golden Delicious apple peel bite.

And while NHV shines with aromatic whites, don’t overlook the Syrah, which won a double gold medal at the 2017 Chronicle judging.

Federal regulations led Cline to develop his winery brand as NHV because not all of his wines are made from his Naches Heights Vineyard or grapes grown inside the AVA. Among the vineyards that Cline farms is Two Coyote in the Rattlesnake Hills.

His NHV wines are widely available, thanks to the promotion of the well-spoken Cline, who looms as a tall yet friendly figure behind rose-colored lenses pouring his wines at festivals throughout the Northwest. However, they are best appreciated at his countryside tasting cottage in the heart of the Naches Heights AVA. It is a stone’s throw from Wilridge Winery’s The Tasting Room Yakima, just five minutes uphill from Highway 12. Bring hiking boots for the trails and a blanket to toss across the lawn for a picnic.

NHV Wines, 250 Ehler Road, Yakima, WA 98908, nhvwines.com, (509) 966-4355.

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Long time TriCities restaurateur Cindy Goulet is founder and president of Lu Lu, aided by general manager Paul Robinson, another veteran of the TriCities food community.

tyna’s, includes Easterday beef and pork.

The LuLu Reuben sandwich features “house corned beef,” while four of the five burgers come with patties that are ground fresh, in-house from Easterday Ranches beef. There also are Asian influences with two ahi dishes as well as a pair of steelhead entrees.

And Goulet’s servers help set the mood by wearing checkered flannel shirts for a farming theme.

“This is a pretty casual community, and some people may have thought that it would be more fine dining, but we already had Budd’s Broiler and Anthony’s so what would we do to complement those two?” Goulet said. “And I was really big on it being a light and fun atmosphere.”

At LuLu, the craft bar offers signature barrel-aged martinis, a dozen beers on tap and more than 80 regional wines. Many of the wineries she supports on the list she oversees also are operated by families of farmers throughout the Columbia Valley. Her by-the-glass offerings include Kiona Vineyards Winery, with three generations of the Williams clan behind it, and Mercer Estates, another historic farming family.

“I’m pretty passionate about it, so we have a nice glass-pour list and represent some wineries that others around us are not,” Goulet said. “And there are some of my favorites.”

Only regional wines are featured by the glass, which includes some longtime friends in the industry such Fidelitas’ Charlie Hoppes and Gordy Venneri of Walla Walla Vintners.

“I’m a huge consumer of wine,” Goulet chuckled. “I love being around W INEPRESSNW.COM

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Roasted Carrots Serves 2 5 ounces roasted baby carrots 1/2 ounce fried chickpeas 1 tablespoon harissa 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 ounce Greek yogurt 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon mint, chopped 1/4 teaspoon chives, minced 1/4 teaspoon parsley, chopped 5 carrot chips 1. Warm roasted carrots in 500-degree oven until heated through.

2. At the same time, blend together the harissa and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a stainless steel bowl.

3. Drop portioned chickpeas into a 350-degree deep fryer until crisp and crunchy.

4. Remove carrots and toss with harissa/olive oil blend.

5. Spread yogurt onto a serving dish.

6. Place carrots on top of yogurt, lined up facing one direction with empty space on either side of the plate.

Drizzle carrots with excess harissa from stainless bowl.

7. Scatter herbs and chickpeas onto the dish and over the carrots throughout the plate but within the rim.

8. Drizzle remaining tablespoon of olive oil on the negative space of the plate, to either side of the carrots.

9. Top with carrot chips and serve.

NHV 2015 Pinot Gris paired with house specialty Roasted Carrots that are blended with harissa and olive oil.

those people and a part of their industry.”

By the bottle, there are more multi-generation wineries represented, including Duck Pond Cellars in Oregon, Gamache in Basin City, Goose Ridge near Candy Mountain, Hedges on Red Mountain, Jones of Washington on the Wahluke Slope, Martinez & Martinez in the Horse Heaven Hills, Treveri in the Yakima Valley, Upland on Snipes Mountain and Woodward Canyon in the Walla Walla Valley.

Goulet’s family, the Easterdays, moved into Washington state in 1958 from what is now Idaho wine country — the Snake River WINEPRESSNW. CO M

Valley — attracted by the Columbia Basin Reclamation Irrigation Project. Her grandfather, Ervin Easterday, began with 300 acres in the shrub-steppe.

Five decades later, his son, Gale, and Goulet’s siblings have grown the family holdings to 18,000 acres. Those operations include their cousins, the Weyns family, who farm onions and potatoes near Royal City. The Easterday cattle downstream near McNary Dam are finished on wheat and corn grown by the family. Pork comes off the family homestead, Block 20.

In theory, LuLu could stage a rather

unique 30-mile dinner with ingredients, wine and guests arriving by boat.

“We want to be a trendsetter down here,” Goulet said. “October would be great time for something like that with it being during harvest.”

Goulet’s decades of travel to Italy, Napa and the Northwest are reflected on her menus. She worked with Seattle-based Gilkey Restaurant Consulting Group for LuLu, and its execution is overseen by general manager Paul Robinson and executive chef Gregorio Rivera. Goulet recruited Robinson, a longtime culinary leader in the S pri n g 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N or thwest

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Tri-Cities, from the Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, Ore., where he played the key role in reviving that historic property.

“We’re both strong-minded,” Robinson said with a hearty laugh. “But because of her 25 years of experience and mine, we find a common ground.”

Rivera, born in Fresno, Calif., started off at the Stagecoach Hotel and Casino in Nevada, where he spent several years before helping to open the Texas Roadhouse in Richland. Robinson brought Rivera in from Kadlec Regional Medical Center, where he oversaw the food service operation. One of Robinson’s longtime signature dishes Chicken Chardonnay - has not made it to LuLu, but one can hope.

Goulet, Robinson and Rivera collaborated on a straightforward approach to the meat-and-potatoes portion of the Match Maker project. The red wine came off her bottle sheet - the Kiona Vineyards Winery 2013 Reserve, and what’s better/easier than

a la plancha 14-ounce ribeye that can serve two?

Indeed, it’s an estate steak, beef raised on Easterday Ranches and cooked a la plancha — prepared on an iron or slate plate so that the steak heats faster and more evenly than using a grill. It conducts enough heat to cook rapidly, leading to a good char on the outside with the inside tender and juicy.

The ribeye comes with seasoning salt, steakhouse butter and a nice finishing touch of house au jus. It is surrounded by smashed Easterday potatoes and seasonal vegetables.

“It is lovely with the Kiona Reserve,” Goulet said. “It’s a great combination, and we sell a lot of steak.”

As for the white side, LuLu selected a picturesque and delicious approach to roasted carrots, a dish so versatile that it serves as an appetizer, a shareable side or an alternative to the salad course. When in season, the carrots come from friends farming in North Franklin County.

“It’s very unique,” she said. “You want to put something different on the menu so people can remember you.”

Roasted Carrots appear as a season special. Colorful carrots are roasted and presented with fried chickpeas, harissa, Greek yogurt and carrot chips. It is complemented by the Naches Heights Pinot Gris from west of Yakima, and the dish’s touch of heat also would go nicely with an off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer.

“The carrots have a little spice to them, so it works with a crisp white that might have a little bit of sweetness,” Goulet said.

“The carrots are roasted, but they are naturally sweeter, too.”

On the horizon is development required by the City of Richland for the gravel lot Goulet controls adjacent to LuLu. In the meantime, there could be another generation involved at LuLu with Cindy’s daughter, Paige, on target to graduate this spring from WSU with a degree in hospitality.

LuLu Craft Bar + Kitchen Steak Butter Yields ½ pound

1 pound whole butter 1/2 tablespoon of dry mustard 1/4 cup Worchestire sauce 1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic 1. In a Hobart mixer, whip butter on speed 3 until creamy.

2. Add all other ingredients, combine thoroughly and store refrigerated for use.

3. Top with a little frisee to finish.

Kiona 2013 Red Mountain Reserve is paired with an estate-grown rib eyed garnished by Lu Lu’s house steak butter

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Kiona Vineyards and Winery $42 2013 Reserve Estate Red Wine, Red Mountain — 1,020 cases, 14.5% alcohol Red Mountain’s trailblazing Williams family spans three generations, and their decades of visionary growing and winemaking afford them the luxury of working with the six classic Bordeaux varieties.

All six come together for this Meritage-style effort, a high-end blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Merlot (35%), Petit Verdot (3%), Cabernet Franc (2%) and Carménère. It’s among the most stately and suave reds to come off Red Mountain.

John Williams and friend Jim Holmes established the first vines on Red Mountain in 1975. What started with 12 acres has grown to 240 acres of Williams vineyards. John’s son, Scott, makes the wines and manages the vines. The third generation, Scott’s son, JJ, is the sales manager.

They launched the Reserve with the classic 2012 vintage, and they now view this as their flagship bottling, the wine that best reflects their history and their achievements. This 2013 vintage signals the introduction of Carmenere - the once-lost Bordeaux variety.

It also more than doubles the influence of Merlot, which made up just 15 percent of the 2012.

This is a product from Heart of the Hill and Kiona Estate, and it should be an easy sell for JJ. Scott and his team selected their favorite barrels for this blend, and it’s a 22-month program of 80 percent new oak, a 50/50 split of French and American. Their influence creates aromas of light toast with black currant, blackberry, rose petal and fresh-cut cedar. There’s sweetness to the ripe fruit that leads with plum and blackberry in front of substantial yet smooth tannins.

Red currant acidity, baking spices and savory notes of porcini mushroom are capped by the finish of Chukar Cherry.

Estate grown veggies and meats are a staple at Lu Lu, many from the family-owned farm.

“We’ll see where that goes,” Goulet said. “She was waiting tables at the airport when she was 13.”

LuLu Craft Bar + Kitchen, 606 Columbia Point Drive, Richland, WA 99352, lulucraftbar.com, (509) 713-7880.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-owner of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

Kiona traditionally does not rush their red wines to market or into competitions, preferring to give them a bit more time in the cellar and the bottle. This Reserve spent four more months in barrel than the 2012 vintage.

Over the four decades, Kiona has developed a reputation for producing some of Washington’s longestlived reds, and this latest Reserve seems poised to carry on that legacy.

John Williams was an engineer for Westinghouse when he adopted for his winery the Yakama Nation’s name for Red Mountain. The family points out that that the first syllable of Kiona rhymes with ‘pie,’ and it means “brown hills.” Wines from the region are far from drab.

The family’s wines have earned a presence in more than 40 states, China and Denmark, and they rank as a bargain alongside many Red Mountain producers.

Fortunately, Scott doubled production of his Reserve from the previous vintage.

Kiona Vineyards, 44612 N. Sunset Road, Benton City, WA 99320, kionawine.com, (509) 588-6716.

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GAMACHE VINTNERS

COYOTECANYON MARTINEZ&MARTINEZ MCKINLEYSPRINGSWINERY

MILBRANDT VINEYARDS

2DOR WINES SMASNE CELLARS

THEBUNNELLFAMILY& WINEO’CLOCK

THURSTONWOLFE

AIRFIELD ESTATES

Where a hub of wineries in the heart of Washington hear Wine Country's Yakima Valley has emerged as an exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrian-friendly village where 0 8 IT wine lovers can taste wines in 6 EX individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemaker's Loft.

Spring Events!

Thurston Wolfe - Art from Jan Nilsson of West Richland will be displayed through December. Craft bracelets from Ed Maske. In April Carol VonStubbe will have new art along with Cathleen Williams handcrafted jewelry.

The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock - Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for a la carte wining and dining.

MARCH 17 and 23 - McKinley Springs - Firepit Friday 5pm-8pm. Gather around and enjoy a glass of McKinley Springs wine by the fire.

• 19 - The Bunnell Family Cellar - Spring Release Party. $25/person, free to wine club members

• 24-26 - McKinley Springs - Sausage Making Clinic. Cee Dub will teach a clinic devoted to meat processing and sausage making. Limited to 10 participants.

APRIL 1 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Learn the techniques of reverse glass painting with local artist Marti Andrews. $45 per person, 11 a.m.- 2 p.m.

• 7 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday. Join us as we break into the vault and open a limited production Library Wine.

(509) 786-7401 www.airfieldwines.com

(509) 786-7800 (509) 786-3313

(509) 786-7686

www.thurstonwolfe.com

www.coyotecanyonwinery.com

www.gamachevintners.com

• 7 - McKinley Springs - Firepit Friday 5pm-8pm. Gather around and enjoy a glass of McKinley Springs wine by the fire.

• 16 - The Bunnell Family Cellar - Closed for Easter Sunday • 22 - Winemakers Loft Food Truck Rally - Wine Edition - 10am-6pm Sponsored

by Winemakers Loft and Thrivent Financial Services. Gourmet Food Trucks, Estate Wines by McKinley Springs, Martinez & Martinez, Coyote Canyon Winery. Music all day featuring Golden Ponies, Bent on Blues and Groove Principle. Proceeds to benefit Heartlinks Hospice Get tickets: heartlinkshospice.org/events $15 Presale - $18Door • 29-30 - Spring Barrel Tasting at participating wineries. Music, food, wine and glorious spring weather. Bring your own glass, stemware is available for purchase.

Please contact individual wineries for complete details.

• 29 - The Bunnell Family Cellar - Food and wine pairing menu for Spring Barrel Tasting Weekend. Saturday only.

• 29 - Milbrandt Vineyards - 7th Annual Booming Barrel, 9-11a.m. Up to 50% off all wine. Must be present to purchase.

MAY 5 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday. Join us as we break into the vault

(509) 786-0004 www.mckinleysprings.com

(509) 786-2392 www.martinezwine.com

(509) 786-2197 www.bunnellfamilycellar.com Reservations recommended

and open a limited production Library Wine.

• 5 - McKinley Springs - Firepit Friday 5pm-8pm. Gather around and enjoy a glass of McKinley Springs wine by the fire.

• 6 - Martinez & Martinez - Cinco de Mayo Wine Club release • 13 - McKinley Springs - Encore Dining Experience. 6pm-9pm. The tasting room

will be transformed into Encore, a pop up restaurant. Pre-purchase your spot to enjoy a four course food and wine experience. https://squareup.com/store/theciaowagon • 14 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Mothers Day Special • 27- 28 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Malbec Vertical Tasting

(509) 788-0030 www.milbrandtvineyards.com

(509) 786-0060

www.smasnecellars.com

(509) 786-0060

www.2dorwines.com

Please call or check individual web sites for more spring events.

COLUMN

grapes of roth

BY COKE ROTH

‘Wood for Dummies’

O

nce again, it’s time for you to be swept into the spiritual vortex of wine, where the truths and untruths of the precious liquid we all so love are homogenized by what you read right here in this shtick.

This episode’s confusing blither ratifies the genius of Mensa International denying me membership as I attempt to write, in 900 words, not “Wood for Dummies” but rather, “Wood by a Dummy”. My IQ is the same as your garage temperature in January….

Wood. Who doesn’t appreciate properly placed wood? Sometimes remnants of oak storage in a new barrel produce penetrating and dominating oaky flavors. Sometimes wood tones integrate with the fruit, producing concentrated richness and finesse.

And sometimes all that shows up is the remnants of being in a barrel, without woody flavors present. So, we have oaky, woody and barrel.

The wood barrel is a work of genius. Can you imagine how smart and talented the first cooper was to make a leak-free wine barrel without laser-guided cutting tools, computer calipers, pneumatic stave benders and bottled beer? Dude, that was like 3,000 years ago!

History tells us that the trusty ceramic Amphora, used for a few thousand years before the barrel, fell out of favor due to breakage and weight, and probably overwhelming industrial insurance claims against the Roman Empire. Although it is logical that coopering wine-tight barrels was transferred shipbuilding technology, apparently the Romans lifted the craft from the Gauls, who probably ripped it off from someone else. Clay Amphora have hung around for millennia, however wood barrels decompose over time; I’ve found particularly rapid degradation when I use them as planters. Maybe that’s why you can’t find any Roman barrels. Anyway, pinpointing the date of the first wooden barrel is up to cave hieroglyphs and ceramic engravings.

One of my winemaker pals on the Mosel 78

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River in Germany still uses barrels his family acquired in the 1600’s. So much for my degradation comment.

Over 400 varieties of oak trees inhabit the earth, some of which are exclusive to a specific forest. Due to variations of variety, venue and climate, each has it’s own idiosyncratic characteristics. One thing shared is, to make a decent barrel, trees need to be about a century old. There are different shapes, and sizes of barrels range from just a few liters to hundreds of gallons.

Generally speaking, American white oak imparts a slew of stronger flavor and aromatic components due to its density, a partial list of which include coconut, chocolate, tea, coffee, sweet vanilla and clove.

These are what we love so much about new world wines. French oak is known to impart subtle complexities, like toasted almond, caramel and fruity flavors and aromas…silky smoothness. Eastern European oak is also favored by some due to resultant softer tannins. Most vintners mix it up to build layers of flavors.

Oak isn’t the exclusive wood storage medium; regal upright redwood tanks were the standard 50 years ago for neutral bulk storage until stainless steel came into vogue.

The first users of wooden barrels stumbled onto something big. First, the staves work as an airtight semipermeable membrane, allowing water and alcohol evaporation. This concentration in a barrel allows color, texture and flavor development. Counterintuitively, only a smidgeon of oxygen comes through the staves, so spoilage oxidation is denied. This, ladies and gentlemen, is the “barrel” component to wine aging, called “elevage” by our French friends, meaning, roughly, maturing.

The second cool thing is that newer barrels impart sinfully delicious flavors depending on which forest they came from, how the tree is cut and dried, how the staves are bent, how it was assembled and particularly the level of internal charring, called toast. This is the “oak” component of a barrel…flavor addition from the toasted

wood. The variances are like a 3-dimensional game of chess.

So the barrel is not only a desirable container, it also imparts sexy ingredients to the wine. However, exposure of the wine to the inside of a barrel lessens the spice infusion over time, so after a few years, a barrel turns neutral and does not contribute oaky flavors.

And as with any flavor you want to add to your food, adding too much or the wrong element of spice can overwhelm the effort. Wine barrels can be the culprit in some cases, like when a winemaker places a subtle wine in a heavily charred barrel.

Oaky Chardonnay is a prime example where all you get is oak. Some people like massively oaky Chard. Not me.

Winemakers can add oak, not barrel, by dumping oak adjuncts into neutral vessels to achieve the desired woody flavors… powder, shavings, chips, cubes, sticks and staves, all from your favorite forest, all toasted to order. This cheating can be authentically tasty and you would be surprised who uses this technique. So will the oak barrel go the way of the vinyl records, the Bee-Hive hairdo and the Amphora? I hope not. I need planters for spring.

The profound transformation of a grapy, sometimes bitter or chalky liquid into a softer, complex substance with seductive wood enhancements is the goal. Barrel time transforms astringent and rough flavors into harmonious richness, and the oak adds the wood. Barrel time takes a wine through the stages of adolescence and readies wine for bottling where it can further morph into an even more luscious treat.

Tah-tah…off to plant some herbs, after which I will knock back a woody, not oaky, wine, with friends, in moderation, frequently.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Come visit our Non-Smoking Lounge!

Open Daily - Noon - 2:00AM

SUNDAY BRUNCH 9:30AM – 1:30PM

$22 Adults • $11 Kids (5 - 12) • Free Kids (0-4) Add Champagne $6

I-5, Exit 99 • Canyonville, OR. • Info 800.548.8461 • Hotel Res 888.677.7771 • sevenfeathers.com

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