Wine Press Northwest Winter 2018

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VOL. 20, No. 4

Vineyard Blending - Page 12

Winter 2018

IN THIS ISSUE

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Wine Knows The rise of Northwest wine culture

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Swirl, Sniff & Sip Platinum XIX: Fine wines from an array of varietals

Winemaker Profile - Page 16

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A Distant Perspective Better than Borscht

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Wine Blending in the Vineyard Oregon winemakers craft field blends

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Winery Profile Northwest Washington’s Bertelsen Winery

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Winemakers Shine at Platinum Duo earn high honors for multiple labels

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Platinum Judging Results 19th Annual Best of the Northwest winners

Platinum Results Page 24

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Match Maker Woodinville, Wash. Chef shares recipes, wine pairings

Recipes and Pairings - Page 50

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Wine Events Calendar List of top upcoming events

ON THE COVER Winemakers Bart Fawbush (left) and Victor Palencia at Kennewick, Washington’s Columbia Gardens Wine and Artisan Village. (See page 20) COVER PHOTO BY BOB BRAWDY

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine – from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Editor Gregg McConnell editor@winepressnw.com Contributors Tamara Belgard Eric Degerman Andy Perdue Dan Radil Columnists Dan Berger Andy Perdue Ken Robertson Contributing photographers Bob Bawdy Richard Duval In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales Michael Phillips, 509-582-1452 mphillips@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. for four issues per year. Mail check or money order to the address below, subscribe securely online at winepressnw.com or call customer service at 800-538-5619.

Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week email newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2018 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

The rise of Northwest wine culture

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s the Pacific Northwest continues its growth and has continued to mature as a wine region over the past two decades, we have seen the inevitable emergence of a wine culture.

I say inevitable because there are 1,000 wineries just in Washington and another 1,000 in Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia, so a wine culture can’t help but emerge. There are wineries and vineyards in almost every corner of our region. In fact, only six of Washington's 39 counties don’t have at least one winery.

Now, almost everywhere you go in Washington means you'll be in wine country.

With this comes a reminder that we as Northwest residents don't take nearly enough advantage of being a part of wine country. I live in the heart of the Columbia Valley and regularly don't take advantage of this. When I do attend an event, I silently rebuke myself for not doing this more often.

The best way to take full advantage of wine country is to join the wine clubs at your favorite wineries. Not only do you get regular wine releases ar a nice discount, but membership also grants you entry to a lot of events. This summer, my wife and I attended a wine club release party where we enjoyed food, wine and live music on the crush pad under our region's perpetually blue skies. We saw old friends, made new friends and generally had a fabulous time. We went home wondering why we didn't do this more often.

Coupled with this is the growing following for food trucks. Many wineries now regularly have a couple of these mobile caterers show up on scheduled nights. Open a few bottles, add some live music, and you’ve created instant magic for attendees.

Another way to immerse yourself in your local wine culture is to offer to volunteer at your favorite winery, Years ago, I helped pick grapes in early November at a now-defunct Yakima Valley winery. The owner had a few rows of Nebbiolo, not enough to bother bringing in a crew to pick. We spent a couple of hours picking an acre of grapes, then huddled around a warm grill eating freshly made pizza.

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There are wineries and vineyards in almost every corner of our region.

In fact, only six of Washington's 39 counties don’t have at least one winery. Now, almost everywhere you go in Washington means you'll be in wine country. With this comes a reminder that we as Northwest residents don't take nearly enough advantage of being a part of wine country.

I went home with a few bottles of wine and many fond memories. When the wines from those grapes came out a couple of years later, I proudly served them with the knowledge I had played a small but important role in it. I think the wine tasted better because of my recollections from that participation.

There’s also the critical aspect of developing a Northwest wine culture by defining our own style of cuisine. Braiden Rex-Johnson first began writing about Northwest cuisine in her myriad cookbooks extolling the virtues of the Pike Place Market. Her 2007 book, Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining, did a particularly marvelous job of looking at the Northwest as a whole while examining our style of cuisine collectively.

I would define Northwest cuisine as anchored in our fresh seafood and the bounty of our fresh produce. Certainly coffee culture plays into it, as well as the glorious artisan cheese industry that is starting to flourish. Our food is a fusion of the cultures that are here,

especially the Asian and Hispanic populations.

Fortunately, those foods go especially well with the abundant Riesling produced in the Northwest.

Where Northwest wine culture and cuisine come to a delicious crossroads is with the proliferation of wineries with on-premise restaurants. This trend took flight in British Columbia's Okanagan Valley and thankfully caught on in Washington. Talented chefs use ingredients procured from small, local farmers to provide delicious dishes for discerning palates.

Of course, it is in their best interest to prepare menus that pair with their wines, enhancing the sense of wine culture and their interpretation of regional cuisine. I have found that some of my favorite dining experiences are at wineries and their restaurants.

I hesitate to lean on the overused trope, but I sense we are entering a new era, and the next few years will see the development of Pacific Northwest wine culture and cuisine, a golden age, if you will.

We can collectively take advantage of this by joining wine clubs, going to winery events, eating in their restaurants, picnicking in vineyards and helping at wineries when opportunities arise.

I've long believed that the most important way to embrace a growing, robust wine industry is not necessarily through the delicious wine that becomes available to us, but rather through what it brings to the region. In this case, that’s good wine and food.

I often wonder what it's like to live in Napa or Sonoma and the lifestyle that brings. Here in the Pacific Northwest, I feel blessed to be in the middle of wine country while living near where I was born and raised. I just have to remind myself to take advantage of our growing wine culture more, attending more events (including winemaker dinners), eating at more winery restaurants and taking fuller advantage of what lies before me. I need more fully embrace it with gusto.

ANDY PERDUE is a wine author, journalist and international wine judge. He writes the Sunday wine column in The Seattle Times. Reach him at andy@greatnorthwestwine.com.

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Platinum XIX: Fine wines from an array of varietals

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his fall marked the 18th time I’ve participated as a judge or a panel moderator for Wine Press Northwest magazine’s annual “best of the best” judging of Northwest wines that have won gold medals or better during the year.

With 654 entries, it drew wines from an array of vintages, dating as far back as 2009, with the newest wines from 2017. Of the 39 wines that won double platinum awards, there were 21 different grape varieties represented, not counting the varietals used to make the red and white blends.

Some of those varietals were no surprise.

There were, for example, five Rieslings among them, from two states and one Canadian province. Only red blends, a burgeoning category, managed to beat that, with six platinums.

Unsurprisingly, four widely grown varietals — Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Syrah — each had two wines in the double platinum category. But so did Washington’s latest darling red, Malbec, and the much lesser grown and lesser known Spanish white wine grape, Albariño.

The diversity of other varietals in the Double Platinums is worth noting: Cabernet Franc, Picpoul, Auxerrois, Siegerrebe, Grüner Veltliner, Grenache, Petit Sirah, Sangiovese, Viognier, Touriga Naçional, Cinsault, Merlot and Mourvedre.

Even among wine lovers, I would guess there are some surprises on this list. Not so many years ago, Picpoul, Auxerrois, Siegerrebe, Albariño, Cinsault, Mouvedre and Touriga Naçional were wines that many of us avid Northwest wine geeks had never encountered.

Jump to the list of 134 wines that won Platinum awards in addition to the 39 Double Platinum award winners, and even more varietals show up, including Tempranillo, Carménère, Semillon, Ehrenfelser, Sauvignon Blanc, Lemberger, Petit Verdot and a perennial awardwinning white blend of Gewürztraminer and Schoenberger, a grape developed in Germany and released for propagation in 1979.

Especially in Washington, Oregon and Idaho, until 15 or so years ago, grape growers, 8

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Of the 39 wines that won double platinum awards, there were 21 different grape varieties represented ... wineries and our regional wine publications were focused largely on the grapes of the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions of France, with a few Rhone reds showing up. Washington didn’t begin its pioneer plantings of Syrah, now one of the region’s mainstay reds, until 1986, and it wasn’t until the early to mid-1990s that Syrah really began to make its mark.

The last two decades have resulted in an ever-expanding search for the latest “great new thing,” and many once-obscure grapes in the Northwest seem headed into the mainstream and are presenting new and stunning examples of what our region can produce.

The nongrape wines coming out of the Northwest also are gaining respect. Among the Platinum winners were wines made from apples, plums, raspberries and more, including a Double Platinum winner dubbed Dawn Patrol White from Washington’s Westport Winery that combines raspberries and Riesling grapes into a delicious drink. Purists might turn their noses up at the idea, but it does help prove that there truly is something for even the most adventurous palates among wine lovers.

The various vintages of Northwest wines entered also proved that our region can produce some surprisingly long-lived wines, both red and white varieties. For example, a 2009 Merlot still held nice fruit and good tannins despite its age. And an Okanagan Valley ice wine from 2012 won a Platinum for Lang Vineyards and still displayed abundant acidity.

I was particularly interested in the remaining 2012s, one of the Northwest’s best years among these vintages because it was a “Goldilocks” year — not too hot and not too cold, but just about perfect.

The reds from 2012 still possessed the combination of finesse and power that the year

offered, as proved by a Cabernet Sauvignon from Barons Winery in Walla Walla made with Columbia Valley grapes. It was gratifying to know Northwest reds retain their ability to age, even as our summers warm.

WINE WORDS: CONCRETE EGGS Among the trendiest of recent trends in the wine world is aging wine in concrete egg tanks.

Adherents will talk about how it produces “rounder” wines, how the concrete has tiny air pockets that allow oxygen to work tiny wonders on the wine and how the concept, although new to many, really is a millennia-old practice that was abandoned in our rush to adopt our many modern innovations.

Some of what you’ll hear verges on eyerolling mythology. For example, that an eggshaped vessel with its rounded interior is naturally superior at softening the wine it holds. A square or rectangular tank made of concrete — or for that matter granite, which made up many of the pool-sized tanks I saw in Spain earlier this year — is likely to perform just as many of the miracles attributed to “eggs.”

It’s certainly true that concrete aging is a process that likely dates back to not too long after the Romans developed concrete roughly 2,000 years ago. And concrete’s tiny oxygencontaining air pockets, which drain out and are replenished each time a tank is emptied, apparently do perform some of the aging elements that soften tannins, augment mouth feel and preserve aromas.

One clear advantage is that a thick layer of concrete provides great insulation, both for keeping wines cool and for managing the speed of fermentation without employing refrigerant jackets.

However much of the benefits are real or imagined, such tanks are durable, simple to maintain and, for now, trendy and add a little cachet to the winemaking and winery. So, toast those clever Romans once again for inventing the miracle of concrete next time you sip a glass of wine from your favorite winery’s “eggs.”

KEN ROBERTSON, the retired editor of the TriCity Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

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a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Better than Borscht

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or some wine is more than a beverage, or just a liquid to get excited about.

Beet juice is roughly the same color, but I never heard anyone get very excited about borscht, which basically is the same as it was a century ago.

Wine evolves. As it does, we either adapt or get left behind to recall the good ol’ days, with all its foibles. Whichever we choose, the present (and the future) or the dim past, one thing is certain: it’s always in transition.

Consumer tastes and vintages change; winemakers adopt a bravado leading to new (and not always better) ideas; climates change. Thus grape varieties change. And the closer you are to it, the less likely you are to notice the changes. It’s best seen over time.

As an “outsider” to Pacific Northwest wines, I see some of the changes more clearly. They’re not incremental. I’m here only once a year to judge the Wine Press Northwest Platinum competition, Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman’s superb event, which now is one of the nation’s premier regional competitions.

Unlike in some past Platinum events, the 2018 showed serious advancement in the overall breed. There was some definite backsliding too, which was revealed by a global look at each category.

Here, in no particular order, are some thoughts on what I saw, rated as: A – Superb wines worth buying; B – An Important Problem that’s solvable; C – Not a Terribly Important problem, but one that’s Personally Irritating.

D -- An Observation (just me being picky).

(A) Cabernet Franc: This was the most obvious grand leap forward. Terrific acidity along with noticeably lower tannins made for red wines that had less astringency than Cab Sauv yet still had the overall personality of the Cab family. The mineral and soil notes, which included aromatics that included graphite, dried savory herbs, sage, cassis and even traces of raspberry were greatly appealing.

(A) Aromatic White Blends: With the appropriate use of cold-climate aromatic grapes to boost floral aromas and high acidities and lower sugars, alcohols, and pH levels, this a category to pursue. With Riesling, Mus10

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cat, Pinot Gris and other aromatic grape varieties, these wines can be refreshingly dry and work with a wide array of foods. Winemakers must be alert to pitfalls, such as too much sugar or higher pHs. (A) Grenache: This Spanish and southern Rhône variety adds lots to red blends. Lately seen as a varietal here, Grenache delivers bright cranberry and pomegranate aromatics and flavors. Our judging panel handed out

Wine evolves. As it does we either adapt or get left behind to recall the good ol’ days, with all its foibles.

Whichever we choose, the present (and the future) or the dim past, one thing is certain: it’s always in transition. Consumer tastes and vintages change ... four platinum awards and a double-platinum to 10 wines, validating the excellence of the fruit and winemakers’ ability to capture it.

(A) Uncommon White Varietals: Again, it’s the aromatics that lead the way, validated by platinums for Grüner Veltliner, Ehrenfelser, Picpoul (!), and Auxerrois.

(A) Carmènére: Chile has developed a small, but growing following in the United States for this grape, but rarely are the wines distinctive. As a varietal in the Pacific Northwest, it is clearly a delight.

(A) Albariño: This dramatically floral grape is one of the most ideal for this cooler climate region, the judges on our panel gave out nothing but double gold and platinum awards.

(B) Gewurztraminer: The effort to avoid bitterness in this grape of Alsace has moved too far toward sugar. It’s better to leave the residual sugar alone and simply have better acidity. Or press very lightly.

(B) Red Blend based on Merlot: When the

Merlot grape isn’t used for a varietal, I assume it may be because the fruit wasn’t quite up to snuff to do so. So in a certain way, using second quality Merlot in a blend may be likened to a salvage operation. As such it can be a reasonably nice wine if the winemaker understands why it is being produced.

(B) Red Blends based on Cabernet Franc: Even a grape as excellent as this one cannot ultimately save several of the wines we tried.

Three wines got platinum medals, which we attributed to the greatness of the grape. Still, because Franc is a more interesting grape than its older brother, some of these wines were simply in need of some time to age.

(C) Merlot: This group was somewhat disappointing, although the top wines generally were made by people who understood the grape. In general, consumers must consider aerating these wines, and be patient with them in the cellar because of extraneous tannins. In some cases prices were far too high for what the consumer wants.

(D) Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet makes an excellent red wine IF YOU HAVE THE PATIENCE TO AGE IT. The grape is occasionally tannic and higher in alcohol than necessary. When grapes are picked early, when the pH is moderate, and the wine has good structural balance, the grape can deliver longer-lived wines that are great dinner companions. Our panel tasted 26 of them and awarded four platinums and a double platinum and liked many of the wines quite a bit. But the tannins were nasty.

(A) Malbec: Ever since Argentina established itself as a beachhead for this minor Bordeaux blender 25 years ago, it has been seen here as plump, rich, soft, and easy to quaff.

But recently we have noticed a trend: Malbec in cooler climes. As a result, New Word Malbecs are generally more like the grape, with blueberry, spice and superb richness without bite.

Final message: The Platinum competition is a terrific guide to great wines. is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

DAN BERGER

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field blends

Photo Coutesy of Ponzi Vineyards

More than 25 Pinot Noir clones are havested from a single site.

Oregon winemakers test blending in the vineyard

BY TAMARA BELGARD

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ome think all great wine is made in the cellar – processed, fermented, blended and bottled under the careful watch of the winemaker. But some of Oregon’s most innovative winemakers are learning to relinquish some control to create the complex, spontaneous and sometimes unexpected results known as field blends.

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With field blends, different types of grapes are grown, picked and fermented together regardless of variety, clone or perceived ripeness. Nurtured along gently by the winemaker, the wine actually blends itself in the field weaving the different varieties, soil types, elevation and harvest conditions into a complex result, long before it reaches the winery’s

crushpad.

Luisa Ponzi, winemaker of Ponzi Vineyards, defines the technique she uses as Clonal Massale, which is a variation of the old-world technique Selection Massale (a French term for the practice of replanting new vineyards with cuttings from exceptional old vines from the same or nearby property). Ponzi’s Avellana W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

field blends F EATURE Vineyard was planted to over 27 clones (Dijon and Heritage), a percentage of each clone literally blended in the field.

Luisa believes, “Each clone has a personality. When many are combined in a single block, the multitude of characteristics naturally brings complexity and dimension to the wines. By planting these clones at random, like wildflowers, it further relinquishes the question of clone, and focuses completely on the terrior of the site.”

Initially, the varying ripening times, morphology, and general mystery over ideal pick time was unsettling for Luisa.

But after working with this vineyard for a decade, she’s come to realize that it’s less about flavor development or chemistry, and more about walking the rows and tasting and looking at the fruit. She says, “There’s a point where you just close your eyes and pick.” She admits she loves that relinquishment of complete control and trusts in the site and this variability of clonal expression, to bring the balance and layers of flavor and structure that make great Pinot. And though she says she would not suggest this method for winemakers who thrive on control, it does suit her general philosophy of setting things up for success and then getting out of the way as much as possible.

For the Ponzis, field blends were something of an accidental discovery. Their Abetina Vineyard, with 22 Pinot Noir clones was part of an Oregon State University clonal test site in the 70’s, and Ponzi Vineyards’ founder, Dick Ponzi, diligently kept this test going for years. After the research was concluded, Dick began fermenting these clones W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Photo Courtesy of Ponzi Vineyards

A special mix of heritage and Dijon Pinot Noir clones ready to be planted at random at Ponzi Avellana Vineyard.

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field blends

Photo Courtesy of Ponzi Vineyards

Pinot noir harvested from Ponzi Avellana Vineyard, planted fully to Clonal Massale. This is the most extensive known planting of Pinot Noir clones in the United States.

together. According to Luisa, “This was our first indication that the whole was better than the parts, and Abetina remains the jewel of our cellar year after year.”

Walter Scott Wines is also a proponent of field blends. Their X Novo Vineyard is planted to 15 different clones of Chardonnay (Heritage and Dijon), that results in uniquely expressive and unforgettable wines. According to Erica Landon of Walter Scott, “Clones ripen at different paces and have different personalities. When you have multiple clones in a block, you have them all translating that site with different voices. When picked together, you have some riper and some less ripe, and they come together to balance each other out and create a more complex wine.

For us, it expresses what the site has to say more completely.”

After traveling through Spain and Portugal, John House and Ksenija Kostic House of Ovum Wines realized the most exciting wines 14

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The variation between clones is most apparent at veraison, when grapes begin to ripen.

Photo Courtesy of Ponzi Vineyards

came from vineyards that were planted to multiple varieties and then co-fermented. It occurred to them that many of Oregon’s vineyards share the same macro-climate yet have

different soil types.

John thought, “If they were picked at the right time, and allowed to spontaneously ferment together, perhaps the final wine could W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

field blends F EATURE be as exciting as what we discovered in Iberia.”

Ovum’s Big Salt is the culmination of fruit from six vineyards located throughout Oregon, reaching as far south as Cave Junction, however it’s precisely that diversity that John says yields complexity to the wine. Big Salt is about capturing Oregon’s cool climate and geographic diversity in a bottle.

Brianne Day of Day Wines also talks about how creating field blends means giving up some control to allow for the full natural expression of a site. Her inspiration came from Jean-Michel Deiss in Alsace, France, who very convincingly advocated for obtaining a true expression of terroir through co-fermenting all of the varieties grown on a particular site.

Day recalls, “He was adamant about not even knowing through any means of calculation, the percentages of the varieties. Literally tuning out that aspect of the process and picking and fermenting the ‘field.’”

That experience was a major influence on Brianne’s style. With her Running Bare and Hock & Deuce wines, she came to notice that the blend becomes more harmonious and

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knitted together when fermented together in a way that she didn’t believe could be achieved when blending happens later on, after élevage (the French winemaking term for the art of raising a wine, from harvest through bottling). She now makes all her blends, whether sourced from one vineyard or more, through co-fermentation.

Through experimentation, many winemakers are finding mother nature can create more depth and complexity than they can

create by their own hand. John says, “Giving up winemaking controls to allow the wine to find its natural harmony is bound to create complex results, assuming you start with the right ingredients—the right fruit.” Which all starts in the field.

TAMARA BELGARD is a freelance writer, based in Portland, Ore., is a regular contributor to www.satiatepdx.com and several northwest publications.

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winer y profile

Northwest Washington winery offers distinctly local flavor

BY DAN RADIL MOUNT VERNON, Wash. — Steve Bertelsen stands behind the counter in the tasting room at Bertelsen Winery, greeting guests as they arrive to check out the facility and taste a few current releases.

“Where are you folks from?” he asks, and after a friendly exchange of information, learns that the couple from Jacksonville, Fla., has stopped at his South Mount Vernon winery on their way up to the San Juan Islands for a visit.

“We get that a lot,” Bertelsen says later, estimating that about 40-percent of his tasting room visitors are traveling between Seattle and Canada or the San Juan Islands. The winery’s location at exit 218 just off Interstate 5 (referred to by the locals as “Conway Hill”), makes it a convenient stop for both wellseasoned wine enthusiasts and curious passersby who might be drawn in by the ‘Wine Tasting’ signs at the freeway interchange.

But most accomplished entrepreneurs will tell you that one can’t just set up shop on a busy street and expect people to stop in. As Bertelsen will attest, the success of the winery required time and effort to make consumerfriendly wines, innovative ways of marketing the tasting room facility, and, especially in his case, the patience to see everything through.

OVER 25 YEARS IN THE MAKING Bertelsen’s parents, Richard and Josephine, moved to the Skagit Valley in about 1970, where Steve and his siblings attended Mount Vernon High School. While purchasing the property in 1988 that would be home to today’s winery, Richard continued to practice oral surgery until his retirement in 2016.

The intention was to start the winery much sooner than its eventual opening date in May 2014, but the Bertelsens discovered that things don’t always turn out as planned.

Part of the slowdown, Steve notes, was attributable to the 2008 recession, as well as his time away working in the food and beverage division at Las Vegas’ Mandalay Bay Resort. After he moved back to Washington in 2013, the necessary preparation work was 16

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Photo by DAN RADIL

Steve Bertelsen, owner of Bertelsen Winery, greets guests at his Mount Vernon tasting room.

B E RT E L S E N W IN E RY 20598 Starbird Road Mount Vernon, WA 98274 Hours: Wednesday 2 to 6 p.m., Thursday through Saturday Noon to 8 p.m., Sunday Noon to 6 p.m.

Phone: (360) 445-2300 www.bertelsenwinery.com

completed, and the winery finally opened about a year later.

Since the winery’s inception, the Bertelsens have relied on the expertise of Joe Hudon, a “free-lance” winemaker from Kennewick, who previously worked as head winemaker at Claar Cellars for eight years and is interim vineyard manager at Elephant Mountain Vineyards in Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills AVA. “My dad has a good palate,” Steve notes, and he feels they work well with Hudon to “collaborate on what we like and what (a

wine) should be.”

But he’ll also be the first to admit that not everything has resulted in great wine — especially during the early years. “We’ve had some hits and had some misses. It’s a work in progress. We’ve found that some wines need a little help and they need a little teamwork.”

He singles out the winery’s currently-available 2014 Syrah as a good example.

“Our Syrah had good substance and the qualities of good Syrah, but the finish wasn’t there. So we added a little Grenache (20-percent) and it really worked well.”

Securing vineyard sources has also been both challenging and rewarding. “We’re still in our infancy, so meeting people, making friendships and earning trust among vineyard owners” has been key. Steve acknowledges Red Mountain’s Monte Scarlatto as one of the best sources for the winery’s red wines and White Bluffs Vineyard, north of Pasco, has provided the Bertelsens with their current releases of Riesling and Pinot Gris.

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winer y profile F EATURE A DISTINCTLY LOCAL FLAVOR “When we first opened, we primarily advertised on Facebook. It took a couple of years to get the word out,” Steve says. That included plenty of local support from Mount Vernon and Skagit County residents as well as those from North Snohomish County, which he points out is only about a quarter-mile south of the tasting room.

It’s those local wine enthusiasts who have stood by the winery since day one. They’ve been rewarded with wines that have steadily improved in quality, and that in turn, has had a profound effect on business, which Steve feels is really beginning to take off.

For starters, the Bertelsens added an adjacent Winery Event Center called “The Vines” with a capacity of nearly 200 guests for weddings, reunions, and celebrations of life. A new outdoor concert area with a stage and seating for up to 400 was also recently added and the venue hosted a five-event summer concert series during 2018.

The tasting room itself includes a dedicated room for functions and meetings of about 50 people, along with a staging area for caterers.

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A selection of certified organic cheeses from Samish Bay Cheese, in Bow and confections from Stanwood’s Creative Chocolate are available at Bertelsen Winery.

Photo by DAN RADIL

And the spacious, semicircular tasting bar is next to an area with comfortable seating and a flat-screen television, where visitors can watch a favorite sporting event while enjoying a glass of wine.

Recognizing that travelers dropping by might also need more than a flight, glass or

bottle of wine, the Bertelsens offer several other items with a nice local touch.

A selection of certified organic cheeses is available from Samish Bay Cheese in Bow, along with confections from Stanwood’s Creative Chocolate. And beer lovers can always grab an on-tap pint from a couple of local

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Located just minutes from Interstate 5, Bertelsen Winery is popular pit-stop for travelers between Seattle and the San Juan Islands or Canada.

Photo by DAN RADIL

sources: Mount Vernon’s Farmstrong and North Sound Brewing Companies.

DOWN THE ROAD… “We’re starting a new wine club in early 2019,” Steve notes, and expansion plans include the purchase of the winery’s own bottling line and at least doubling the current annual production of 2,000 cases.

Also down the road is the possibility of producing wine from three acres of Pinot Noir vines originally cultivated by Cloud Mountain Farm in Whatcom County. The vines are planted adjacent to the tasting room and within view of the freeway. A small crush in 2017 had limited success, and Steve says that while “mold, mildew and heat units are a problem, we want to keep it organic.”

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Until then, visitors to the tasting room should be more than happy with a selection of current releases that includes a beautiful 2016 Merlot from the Walla Walla Valley AVA and a four-varietal red blend of 2014 and 2015 vintages sourced from Red Mountain.

But don’t rule out that Pinot Noir just yet.

With the Bertelsens' reputation for patience and perseverance, the varietal may turn up on the tasting room menu sometime in the near future. And that would give travelers along the north end of the I-5 corridor just one more reason to stop in.

DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com.

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Platinum Judging casts spotlight on Port of Kennewick project

Winemakers Bart Fawbush and Victor Palencia were the first tenants of Kennewick’s Columbia Gardens Urban Wine and Artisan Village.

Bob Brawdy Tri-City Herald

BY ERIC DEGERMAN KENNEWICK, Wash. — The Port of Kennewick recruited Palencia Wine Co., and Bartholomew Winery in 2016 to serve as anchor tenants for the Columbia Gardens Urban Wine & Artisan Village, a Columbia River waterfront redevelopment in downtown Kennewick, Wash.

According to a panel of West Coast wine experts at the 19th Platinum Judging by Wine Press Northwest magazine, Columbia Gardens now can market itself as home to two of the top winemakers in the Pacific Northwest.

In the case of Washington winemaker Victor Palencia, his Midas touch doesn’t just turn wine into gold medals. They often turn platinum. No one was awarded more top awards 20

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during the 2018 Platinum than Palencia. His talents earned nine Platinums across Jones of Washington and his growing Palencia Wine Co., empire, which includes the Vino la Monarcha brand at Columbia Gardens.

“This news is going to help me market my wines,” Palencia said. “I am humbled.”

Meanwhile, the No. 1 wine of the judging — dubbed “The Best of the Best” — came from tiny Aluel Cellars in Seattle. Consulting winemaker for the 2014 Coat of Arms Red Wine is Bart Fawbush of Bartholomew, who left his West Seattle production facility for the new Port of Kennewick project.

Kind of sounds like one of those old Banner Bank television commercials, eh?

“I love Seattle, but Kennewick has been an absolutely fantastic opportunity,” said Fawbush, who crushed 3,000 cases worth of wine from the 2018 vintage at Columbia Gardens.

“The people have accepted us with open arms, and we’ve doubled our revenue in 2018. We’re excited about helping to change this part of Kennewick.”

The path that Samuel Hilbert and Alex Oh took on their way to launching Aluel Cellars included wine club membership in Bartholomew Winery, which maintains a tasting room in the old Rainier Brewery building. As their interest in becoming vintners grew, it seemed natural, but not automatic.

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Winemaker Bart Fawbush moved the production of his Bartholomew wines from Seattle to Kennewick last year.

Bob Brawdy Tri-City Herald

options, but we became good friends of Bart’s and trusted his opinions, so it made sense to work with him at that point,” Hilbert said. “We really do a lot of the blending ourselves, and hands-on in the production space, making the decisions of the grape sourcing and the style of wines we want to produce, with Bart there to give us advice along the way.”

Fawbush got a sense Hilbert and Oh were serious when they met up for beers after attending Taste Washington a few years ago.

“They were asking me all these questions,” Fawbush said. “It wasn’t long after that when their label came to fruition, and they’ve been awesome clients – absolutely fantastic.”

Aluel Cellars began with a 2012 Malbec, a production of 225 cases – the equivalent of nine barrels. From the 2013 vintage, they developed the concept for the proprietary Bordeaux blend they call Coat of Arms.

With the help of Fawbush, they came up with 125 cases of that blend.

The secret sauce from 2014 proved to be Carménère, the obscure red Bordeaux variety that Fawbush pulled from both Glacier Vineyard, an estate site for AntoLin Cellars, and Two Blondes Vineyard, farmed by Chris Camarda of Andrew Will fame. In 2015, all of the Coat of Arms juice came off acclaimed Elephant Mountain Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills.

“Each year, it’s the best of our Bordeaux lots,” Hilbert said. “The 2015 wine was just 35 cases. It shows that we’re sticking with the best lots, but that was all the juice we could get out of it at the end.”

Their wines are bottled in Kennewick, yet they’ve found Capitol Hill near Broadway to be a tasty fit.

“Ours is a super-super urban tasting room that’s open six days a week and just a block from light rail,” Hilbert said. “And we’re the only tasting room on Capitol Hill.”

Recently awarded New Business of the Year from the Greater Seattle Business Association, the plan is for Aluel Cellars to remain ultra-boutique. Oh is a partner with Stoel Rives in Seattle with a masters in biotechnology from the University of Wisconsin. Hilbert, a product of Cedarville (Ohio) University, works in Seattle real estate.

“Alex and I both have a big passion for wine,” Hilbert said. “I grew up W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Victor Palencia earned nine Platinum medals at the 19th Annual Platinim Judging including wines for Jones of Washington and his growing Palencia Wine Co., empire, which includes the Vino la Monarcha brand at Columbia Gardens.

Bob Brawdy Tri-City Herald

Bob Brawdy Tri-City Herald

Next year, Cave B Estate Winery, Gordon Estate Winery and a pair of food trucks will join Palencia Wine Co. and Bartholomew Winery in the Columbia Gardens Urban Wine and Artisian Village in Kennewick, Wash.

with agriculture in the Midwest before moving to Woodinville, where I got to know a lot of winemakers through a buddy’s wine shop. Alex has a chemistry background, and we met over wine.”

Decisions made through their blending trials indicate that Oh and Hilbert have a definite flair for developing balanced red wines. The Platinum won by the 2015 Coat of Arms is particularly impressive considering that it’s a Merlot-dominant wine (73%), while the 2014 version could legally have been labeled as Carménère (86%).

Aluel is a simple mash-up of their first names, yet Hilbert and Oh are building a following. News of their two Platinums and the top-rated wine of the judging won’t hurt.

“We’re pushing 1,000 cases a year, and we’re in it for a while,” Hilbert said. “We’re definitely committed.”

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to the Tri-Cities might have added a logistical layer, the results have been well-received. And Fawbush said the Platinums won by Aluel Cellars for its Meritage-style wine also provides him with a sense of pride.

“Forty dollars,” Fawbush chuckled. “I don’t even have a single bottle priced that high.”

Next year, Fawbush and Palencia will be joined at Columbia Gardens by tasting rooms for two more wineries — Cave B Estate Winery and Gordon Estate Winery — and a pair of food trucks.

“The Palencia and Vino la Monarch brands were just a dream six years ago, so it’s really humbling to look back and see what we’ve been able to achieve in such a good environment,” Palencia said. “Columbia Gardens has become a center spot for our operations and helped us to build a company that we hope serves as an inspiration. I knew there were some serious wine connoisseurs in the this area, and the Tri-Cities community has been amazing to us.” is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

ERIC DEGERMAN

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Palencia emerges from 2018 judging as ‘Kid Platinum’

BY ERIC DEGERMAN, ELLEN LANDIS AND KEN ROBERTSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB BRAWDY RICHLAND, Wash. — Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery in British Columbia remains crowned as “King of the Platinum,” but Victor Palencia could wear the nickname “Kid Platinum” of Wine Press Northwest magazine’s year-end judging of gold-medal wines.

This year, his talents led to nine Platinums.

No winemaker accounted for as many. In the past decade, Palencia, age 32, has been awarded 36 Platinums for his work with Jones of Washington, Palencia Winery, Vino la Monarcha and the early days of Henry Earl Estates.

The 19th Platinum Judging continues to serve as a runway for many of Pacific Northwest’s most beautiful wines released during 2018. Each of this year’s 654 entries essentially were prescreened, and in a sense it is an invitational, a product of at least one respected wine competition somewhere around the globe where a panel of respected influentials deemed it worthy a gold medal.

The aforementioned Gehringer Brothers on the Golden Mile Bench in the Okanagan 24

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Valley brought eight more Platinums back to British Columbia. Nearby, Tinhorn Creek won three Platinums. All total, there were 34 Platinum winners from Canada, accounting for 20 percent of the top-rated wines.

Maryhill Winery returned seven Platinums — four for Richard Batchelor’s high-end work with red Bordeaux varieties.

Columbia Gorge, winemaker Rich Cushman once again proved that he deserves to be in the discussion among the Northwest’s elite, responsible for six Platinums split between two family-owned producers in Hood River, Ore. — Mt. Hood Winery and Stave & Stone Wine Estates.

14 Hands, the second-largest brand in Washington state, built on the shoulders of bargain red blends such as Hot to Trot, is more than a one-trick pony. Keith Kenison merited five Platinums for the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates giant, and those awards came in a variety of categories, styles and price points, paced by the Double Platinum for its 2015

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

Reustle - Prayer Rock Vineyards in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley captured four Platinums, two for Stephen Reustle’s pioneering work with the Austrian variety Grüner Veltliner.

Judges from California, Oregon and Washington found fascination in exploring varieties. For example, there were eight Platinums given to standalone bottlings of Cabernet Franc. There were 10 entries in the Grenache category, and half of those received a Platinum. A handful of Sangiovese entries went on to wear Platinum, as did five examples of Tempranillo, one of those from Reustle.

Idaho winemakers continue to raise the bar and the state’s profile with seven Platinums. In fact, Clearwater Canyon Cellars in Lewiston bumped its career total to 12, and no woman winemaker in the Northwest has amassed as many Platinums as Coco Umiker, whose winery comes with a view of the Clearwater River.

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Pinot Noir class highlighted the work of Cardwell Hills Cellars and Lumos Wine Co. in Philomath, in Oregon’s Coastal Foothills.

Puget Sound producers continue to display talent. Spoiled Dog Winery on Whidbey Island captured three Platinums, joined by two each from Whidbey Island Winery and Vashon Island’s Palouse Winery. Greg Osenbach at Whidbey Island Winery is on a run, having won four Platinums in the past three years to give him eight for his career.

Lake Chelan showed well, thanks to homegrown winemaker Shane Collins. There were three estate wines from showpiece Tsillan Cellars, while Rocky Pond Winery, with vineyards on the south shore of Lake Chelan and its exciting Double D Vineyard, also won three Platinums. Last year, Collins moved from Tsillan Cellars to Rocky Pond.

Ron Bunnell, whose winemaking helped put Rocky Pond on the map, picked up three Platinums for wines featured at the delectable Wine o’Clock Bistro in Prosser operated by his wife, Susan.

Young brand Love That Red Winery in Woodinville, Wash., showed vintner Terry Wells has quickly found his stride with three Platinums for high-end red wines.

Pat Spangler and Spangler Vineyards, our 2018 Oregon Winery of the Year, bumped his career total to 13, with a trio of Platinums for his work with big Bordeaux varieties.

Community colleges continue to build on their success. College Cellars of Walla Walla earned a pair of Platinums for 2017 whites W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

under Tim Donahue’s tutelage, including a second in five years for its Clarke Vineyard Sèmillon. Yakima Valley Vintners, led by instructors Trent Ball and Brad Smith, used the student-made 2015 Mid-Term Merlot ($15) to match College Cellars with five career Platinums for their program.

And while this judging helps serve as reaffirmation of some of our region’s top producers, there were more than 30 first-time winners. They included Aluel, Barons, Beresan, Bitner, Black Market Wine Co., Blind Creek Collective, Blue Grouse, Brook Horse, Callan Cellars, Catman Cellars, Cedar River Cellars, Chris James Cellars, Darige, Damsel Cellars, Dead End Cellars, Drum Roll Wines, Fences Winery, J. Scott Cellars, Lagana Cellars, Longship Cellars, Maan Farms Estate Winery, Nine Hats Wines, Owen Roe Winery, Palouse Winery, Rocky Pond Winery, Stag’s Hollow Winery & Vineyard, Stottle Winery, Tertulia Cellars, Tinhorn Creek, Warr-King Wines and Yamhill Valley Vineyards.

Our judges this year were Dan Berger, columnist, Santa Rosa, Calif.; Kristine Bono, direct to consumer manager for Tertulia Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.; Gary Hayes, president of Explorer Media Group and the Savor NW Wine Awards, Cannon Beach, Ore.; Ellen Landis, journalist/sommelier, Vancouver, Wash.; Richard Larsen, research winemaker and enologist, Washington State University, Richland, Wash.; Gregg McConnell, editor of Wine Press Northwest; Andy Perdue, wine columnist for The Seattle Times, Richland,

HOW THE PLATINUM IS CONDUCTED Wine Press Northwest created the Platinum Judging in 2000 as a way to determine some of the best wines of the Pacific Northwest.

To accomplish this, we chart more than 50 professional judged wine competitions worldwide to track the gold medals won by fruit from Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia.

These wines are categorized and judged blind during three days by three panels of wine experts, who award wines with Double Platinum, Platinum, Double Gold and Best Buy. A wine is awarded a medal based on how a majority of the judges voted. If all judges on a panel deem the wine a Platinum, that wine is awarded a rare, unanimous Double Platinum.

Based on each judge’s score, we are able to determine which wine or wines end up at the top, the best of the best.

The 19th annual Platinum Judging was staged Oct. 24-26 at Shilo Inn in Richland, Wash.

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Wash; April Reddout, guest services manager for Col Solare, Benton City, Wash.; and Heather Unwin, instructor, Richland, Wash.

Judging panel moderators were Eric Degerman of Great Northwest Wine; retired educator Hank Sauer, Kennewick, Wash; and Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist, Kennewick, Wash.

Best of the Best Aluel Cellars $40 2014 Coat of Arms Red Wine, Rattlesnake Hills Seattle’s Alex Oh and Samuel Hilbert work with winemaker Bart Fawbush of Bartholomew Winery on the wine they pour in their Capitol Hill tasting room. Coat of Arms represents their best Bordeaux-based blend, and in 2014, it was dominated by Carménère (86%). Aromas of a warm-from-the-oven cherry pie and subtle florals are tantalizing.

Luscious on the palate are black raspberry, cherry, dark chocolate, cranberry orange muffin and minerally notes. Underlying herbaceous elements intertwine. The oak is nicely integrated; tannins are round and approachable, and the finish is memorable. (125 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

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2017 Classic Riesling, Okanagan Valley The King of the Platinums nearly produced the top wine of the 2018 Platinum with this quintessential Pacific Northwest example of Riesling, perhaps the most decorated wine of the judging. It broadcasts a classic Riesling aroma of river rock and stone fruit. Glorious on the palate, with fresh summer peaches, nectarines, hints of jasmine, crushed herbs, and a solid thread of minerality. Zesty and precise, with a kick of lime zest on the forever finish. (2,000 cases, 12.9% alc.) Awards: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (best of class, gold medal), Los Angeles International (gold), Indy International (gold), Cascadia International (double gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Fly Rod Cellars $29 2015 Trico Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley Troy Mandeville and John Richardson of Convergence Zone Cellars in the Cascade foothills town of North Bend, Wash., work with Cabernet Franc from acclaimed Dineen Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills for the second vintage of this brand and its tribute to the mayfly — a friend to those fly fishing for trout. Perfumed aromas of violets and graphite shout out Cab Franc. The floral note continues while flavors of strawberry-rhubarb, black raspberry, graphite, hints of tar, anise seed, then smoky spiced oak and cigar box notes unfold. Juicy, rich and balanced, the

firm tannins provide great framework, suggesting its cellar worthiness. (45 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Blue Grouse Estate $25 Winery 2016 Quill Pinot Noir, B.C. Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley produces a growing number of award-winning wines, and the Brunner family’s stewardship of this beautiful property suits winemaker Bailey Williamson. Both lots were harvested at 22 Brix, and half of the fruit came from the Okanagan Valley. The results are beautiful, bright and rounded with notes of cranberry cocktail, plum, orange zest, rose petal, Baker’s chocolate and tobacco leaf. Restrained tannins and lingering acidity make for a superb structure that’s remarkably balanced. (400 cases, 13% alc.) Award: Wine Align National Wine Awards of Canada (gold).

Bradley Vineyards $16 2016 Riesling, Elkton Oregon Tyler Bradley has taken the reins of his late father’s bucolic vineyard just outside the tiny town of Elkton, Ore., in the northern reaches of the Umpqua Valley. The classic wet stone aroma of rocks, clearly speak of Riesling. On the palate, flinty notes join citrus-flecked white peaches, grapefruit, lemon verbena and minerality. Immaculately balanced and finely structured, it brings a lime-tinged finish.

Delicious now, and age-worthy too. (84 cases, 12.3% alc.) Award: SIP McMinnville (gold).

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Brook Horse Wine $27 2017 Chardonnay, Rogue Valley Second-generation winemaker Eric Weisinger in Ashland, Ore., worked with the Moore family’s Quail Run Vineyard on this barrel-fermented Chardonnay, which featured 20% new French oak. The nose offers lime, Golden Delicious apple, pineapple, pear and minerality. Across the palate roll those same fruity elements, framed by roundness and depth. Beautiful acidity makes for a long finish. (115 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: New York International Wine Competition (gold).

Callan Cellars $25 2017 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul, Yakima Valley Woodinville boutique producer Lisa Callan continues to blossom in the Artisan Hill Warehouse District. Her focus is Rhône varieties, and that shows in this collaboration with renowned grower Dick Boushey on this vibrant expression of Picpoul. It’s fresh and mouthwateringly delicious from the start with the fragrant floral and stony aroma. Crisp pear, white peach, Meyer lemon and a hint of Juicy Fruit gum explode on the palate, which is accented by underlying minerality. It is shimmering, pure and expressive with a spinetingling finish. (100 cases, 12.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

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This marks the fifth Platinum in the past four years for Chris and Betty Jentsch, who grow the grapes for their winemaker, Amber Pratt. She takes a Right Bank approach with this blend of Cabernet Franc (34%), Merlot (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (28%), Malbec (2%) and Petit Verdot. Violets on the nose open to dark fruit and black tea notes. It’s complex and stylish as layers of Bing cherry, black olive, blackberry, hints of tar, black licorice lead to subtle underlying roasted red pepper and savory herbs, which broaden on the palate. Refined tannins, pristine balance and a lingering finish complete the package.

(3,300 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $14.29 2017 Old Vines Auxerrois, Okanagan Valley Few in North America work with this white grape that’s most popular in Alsace. It can be argued that no one in the New World does it as well as the Gehringer brothers in British Columbia. It’s delightfully floral on the nose with a suggestion of tropical fruit peeking through. Beautifying the palate are delicate layers of crisp Aurora Golden Gala apples, herbal tea, dried pineapple, lemon verbena and white peach. Lovely acidity keeps it bright and dynamic through the invigorating finish. (1,800 cases, 12.7% alc.) Awards:

Los Angeles International (gold), Indy International (best of class, gold), Cascadia International (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Hedges Family Estate $40 2016 Hedges Estate Vineyard Grand Class Syrah, Red Mountain Sarah Hedges-Goedhart grew up with these vines, now farmed using Demeter-certified Biodynamic practices. Remarkable complex, it ranges from violet to blackberry preserves and blueberry notes. This wine spent just 10 months in barrel, with two of the three barrels being new, and that oak integration displays delicious accents of mocha and Baker’s chocolate. Her family’s wines rank among the most age-worthy in Washington. (93 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival (best of show, gold medal).

J. Scott Cellars $20 2017 Albariño, Washington Willamette Valley winemaker Jonathan Scott Oberlander, who rose to prominence at Silvan Ridge Winery, sources throughout the Pacific Northwest for grapes to pour at his tasting rooms in Eugene’s Westside Warehouse District and on the coast at Newport. His Albariño spent no time in oak, so the citrusy aromas really get the juices flowing with this precisely balanced white. It’s deliciously fruity and lively with layers of apricot, freshsqueezed Meyer lemon, pear, mango, kiwi, and a pinch of lemon basil melding with W i n t e r 2 018 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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lovely minerality and bracing acidity. Zesty and mouthwatering acidity pulses through the never-ending finish. (250 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold).

Larch Hills Winery $16 2015 North Okanagan Siegerrebe, British Columbia A German scientist crossed Gewürztraminer with Madeleine Angevine and viewed it as such as success that Siegerrebe (pronounced ZEE-gar-RAY-beh) translates to “victory wine” in German. Jack Manser has found the grape to be a winner at Larch Hills, a vineyard and winery north of the Okanagan Valley town of Vernon. Striking aromatics show off jasmine and citrus fruit. It’s glorious in the mouth with layers of pink grapefruit, ginger snaps, fresh pineapple, Ginger Gold apples, hints of slate, juicy apricots and fresh chopped lemongrass. Perfectly balanced with brilliant acidity, there’s a fragrant note of gardenia on the vitalizing finish. (663 cases, 11.6% alc.)

Award: Savor NW (gold).

Mt. Hood Winery $24 NV Summit Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley Wine Press Northwest’s Oregon Winery of the Year for 2016 shows no sign of slowing down as homegrown winemaker Rich Cushman continues to produce strings of gold medals for the Bickford family. His wideranging blend of Pinot Noir (25%), Tempranillo (25%), Syrah (25%), Zinfandel (12.5%) 28

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and Malbec brings a rich nose of dusty blueberry, cranberry and blackberry pie. Inside, it’s remarkably balanced and filled with dark cherry flavors, blueberry acidity and capped by a long finish of black cherry cola.(658 cases, 13% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Palencia Wine Co. $20 2017 Albariño, Ancient Lakes This this white Spanish grape grown in the facinating Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley and placed in the hands of Victor Palencia continues to produce remarkable results.

There’s enticing tropical fruit, citrus and wet stone notes on the nose. Well-defined layers of guava, mango, crisp pear, a touch of fresh herbs, lemon sorbet and hints of earth invigorate the palate. Zippy acidity provides ideal balance, and a solid thread of minerality holds through the vibrant, mesmerizing finish. (250 cases, 12.5 alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (best of class, gold).

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2015 Revelation & Sorek Bloc Estate Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley Stephen Reustle’s 2014 vintage of this wine topped last year’s Platinum Judging, and this one is showing equally well. Fresh-squeezed lime and peach aromas are heavenly. Citrus blossom, white peach, earthy tones, Meyer lemon, pear, guava, lime zest, a pinch of white pepper and minerality flow effortlessly onto

the palate. It’s meticulously balanced with a finish that never ends. (600 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Robert Karl Cellars $26 2015 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Dr. Joe Gunselman began driving from his Spokane winery to the Horse Heaven Hills for Platinum-winning grapes a decade ago.

He’s back to McKinley Springs Vineyard for this Malbec. None of the four French barrels in this lot were new oak, and that shows.

Black fruits on the nose pave the way for this finely balanced Malbec. Full-bodied and intensely structured, black plum, blackberry and bay leaf accents meld with a nice underlay of oak. It’s powerful with a firm backbone of tannins while showing off smooth texture and gracefulness; approachable now, yet also cellar-worthy . (100 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

The Bunnell Family Cellar $36 2013 Grenache, Yakima Valley Ron Bunnell, recruited to make wine in Washington by Chateau Ste. Michelle in the 1990s, became one of the Northwest’s top producers of Rhône varieties with the advent of his own winery in Prosser. His work with Grenache is pure Platinum. Magnificent raspberry and spice aromas up front continue to build as the wine meets your lips. Raspberry jam, ripe pomegranate seeds, juicy red cherries and cinnamon stick glide across the palate.

The perfect level of acidity and soft, silky tannins create a gorgeous mouth feel. (94 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold).

Thurston Wolfe $20 2015 Zephyr Ridge Vineyard Petite Sirah, Horse Heaven Hills One of the Northwest’s wine industry’s most respected figures is winemaker/viticulturist Wade Wolfe, who probably knows Zephyr Ridge Vineyard better than anyone. He helped oversee the 1997 planting of this vineyard when he worked for Hogue Cellars. The fragrant floral aroma is charismatic - wow!

Powerful while elegant, it broadcasts purity all the way through. Blackberries, purple plums, fresh tobacco, spice box notes, hint of black olive, and underlying toasty oak provide a kaleidoscope of flavors on the palate. Rich, smooth, bright and complex through the long-lasting finish. It ranks among the best examples of Petite Sirah produced in the Pacific Northwest. (360 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $21 2016 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Andrew Windsor works with Diamondback Vineyard, an estate site along the Black Sage Bench for this Chardonnay fermented in both stainless steel and oak barrels. The breathtaking aroma leads the way for this bright and lively, sleek beauty. Crisp Granny Smith apples, lime zest, fresh crushed herbs and minerality create a brilliant display of flavors decorating the palate. Pure and streamW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

lined with fine balance and well-integrated oak, and the long finish is simply dazzling.

(2,054 cases, 14% alc.) Award: All Canadian Wine Championships (gold).

Tsillan Cellars $20 2016 Estate Riesling, Lake Chelan Lake Chelan native Shane Collins’s final harvest for Dr. Bob Jankelson is reflected in one of the Platinum Judging’s top Rieslings.

The mouth-watering aroma is compelling.

Well-defined layers of Key lime and sunripened stone fruit include a touch of fresh earth, Ginger Gold apple and minerality.

Immaculately balanced for 2% residual sugar, it flows elegantly on the palate, with lovely citrus elements on the persistent finish. (412 cases, 11.9% alc.) Awards: Indy International Wine Competition (double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Westport Winery $27 NV Dawn Patrol White, Washington This perennial crowd-pleasing blend of raspberry with Riesling is lightly sweet thanks to the balance provided by the high-acid brambleberry and the baking spice finish. It’s built by Dana Roberts to be paired with crab cakes at his family’s on-premise Sea Glass Grill. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the wine are donated to the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. (182 cases, 12.3% alc.)

Award: Cascadia Wine Competition (gold).

Yamhill Valley Vineyards

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2016 Riesling, Willamette Valley Ariel Eberle continues her string of success with Riesling at the second-oldest vineyard in the McMinnville American Viticultural Area.

While her 2015 Riesling leaned more toward late-harvest in approach, this is nearly bonedry at 0.6% residual sugar, which displays her versatility as a winemaker. Gorgeous aromatic engages the senses. Nectarine, peach skin, lime zest, underlying crushed herbs and minerality expand vivaciously on the palate. It is beautifully balanced with a perfect level of acidity keeping it vibrant through the long and refreshing finish. (406 cases, 12.2% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Wine Invitational Wine Competition (double gold).

Zerba Cellars $45 2015 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Doug Nierman’s winemaking at Zerba Cellars brought the Milton-Freewater, Ore., producer a long string of acclaim, including Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. His legacy continues with this Malbec. The floral aroma of this gem will take your breath away! Layers of dark plum, black cherry, blackberry, a touch of blood orange, hint of molasses, understated oak, and coffee bean soar onto the palate.

Well-composed with a solid backbone of tannins, thanks to the legal limit of Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), it offers precise balance and deep fruit as purity abounds through the grand finale. (190 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle (double gold).

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Dead End Cellars $27 2014 No Return Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon, B.C. Forbidden Fruit, in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley, ranks among the Northwest’s top producers of non-grape wines.

Nathan Venables’ winemaking for his family’s grape-based Dead End Cellars brand shows that his talent also extends to vinifera. His Right Bank Bordeaux blend of Merlot (43%) Cabernet Sauvignon (27%) and Cabernet Franc stays true to his family’s certified organic farming practices, and the aromatics of mixed berries and chocolate mint are irresistible. Spilling delectably onto the palate are well-defined layers of blueberry, SweeTart cherry, tobacco leaf, red currant, blackberry, traces of earth and warm spices. Richly textured with impeccable balance and a persistent finish. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: All Canadian Wine Championships (gold).

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Winery $13.29 2017 Private Reserve Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley This marks the fourth straight vintage for Walter and Gordon Gehringer to earn at least a Platinum with this style of Riesling, which carries less than 1% residual sugar. An alluring stone fruit aroma engages the senses. Peach and nectarine fruit mingle with sweet herbs, minerality and a touch of lemon-lime, exhilarating the palate. Crisp acidity offers perfect 30

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balance, and the scintillating finish persists long after the last sip. (2,000 cases, 13% alc.)

Awards: Los Angeles International (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Indian Creek Winery $25 2016 Sangiovese, Snake River Valley Second-generation vintner Tammy StoweMcClure and her winemaking husband, Mike McClure, used this young and still-unreleased Sangiovese to earn their second Platinum in as many years. Gorgeous florals on the nose pave the way to classic earth-tinged cherry notes on entry. It’s immaculately balanced with hints of damp earth, red cherries and expressive spice components that unfold on the palate with brilliant acidity. The entire package builds to a gloriously long finale. (100 cases, 13% alc.)

Award: Idaho Wine Competition (gold).

Milbrandt Vineyards $26 2014 The Estates Syrah, Wahluke Slope From the middle tier of Butch Milbrandt’s portfolio, this luscious Syrah from The Estates project was constructed by Ivy League-trained Josh Maloney, who built his reputation as one of Washington’s top talents with reds during his days with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

There’s no disappointment on the palate after sniffing hints of black cherry, black plum and olive. Medium-soft tannins make for a beautiful structure, capped by a long finish of pomegranate juice. (1,000 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $27 2016 Estate Cuvée Viognier, Umpqua Valley As much acclaim as this Southern Oregon producer merits for Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo, Stephen Reustle’s work with Viognier too often gets overlooked.

There’s an equal balance of peach, honey and enticing orchard blossom notes with apricot and dried pineapple in the background. Its beautiful character with a delicate fleck of minerality makes it both crowd-pleasing and sophisticated. (258 cases, 13.2% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle (double gold medal).

Thurston Wolfe $16 2016 Touriga Naçional Port, Yakima Valley Wade Wolfe has been producing awardwinning dessert wines with Portuguese varieties long enough that he is among the few outside of Portugal legally allowed to label them as “Port.” This is 100% Touriga from Lonesome Springs Vineyard, and the 15 months in neutral oak barrels allow for aromas of fruitcake, fresh brioche and sweet cured meat. Inside, it’s rich and delicious with a creamy body and flavors of vanilla and raspberry jam. (180 cases, 18% alc.) Award: Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival (gold).

14 Hands Winery 2015 The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills

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Keith Kenison first rose to prominence when he headed up the white wine program at Columbia Crest. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates promoted him to the role of head winemaker at 14 Hands, and he’s helped build the Prosser winery into the second-largest brand in the state. Dusty berries and savory aromas provide a captivating entry. The velvety texture comes with lavish purple plum, mulberry and boysenberry fruit, a splash of orange, accents of licorice, cocoa bean, and vanilla extract - a combination that weaves a colorful composition of flavors on the palate. A kick of savoriness adds depth through the finish.

(663 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold).

Chateau Walla Walla $40 2013 The Artisan Series #4 Masterpiece Red, Walla Walla Valley A part of the Claar Wine Group portfolio, this wine, from winemaker Joe Hudson, uses fruit from Summit View Vineyard and the Zerba family’s Winesap Vineyard in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. This Left Bank Bordeaux leads with Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), followed by Malbec (30%) and Petit Verdot, and it ranks among the most expressive reds of Platinum. Spiced plum, cola and chocolate-covered cranberry notes pick up hints of graphite and violet. Underlying savoriness and black peppercorn are supported by the perfect level of tannin with everything an equal partner. (150 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

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Chris James Cellars $26 2016 Pinot Noir, Oregon Chris Barnes established his young vineyard along the western edge of the Yamhill-Carlton American Viticultural Area, and Wagon Road Vineyard serves as the foundation for this exquisite three-source, four-clone Pinot Noir.

It’s a gateway example, an enticing Pinot Noir with hints of cassis, raspberry and dried rose petal that keep you coming back for another evaluation. (620 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (double gold).

Dunham Cellars $45 2014 XX Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley The inaugural bottling by the late Eric Dunham was a 1995 Cab, and his legacy lives on in superb fashion with this 20th anniversary release from the Walla Walla icon.

Fruit sources include venerable Sagemoor, Double Canyon in the Horse Heaven Hills and Kenny Hill Estate Vineyard not far from the winery. Aromas of blackberry pie are joined by roasted coffee and chocolate, signs of the investment in 70% new French oak barrels, but they allow for mint and thyme to emerge. Ripe black currant and blueberry flavors are carried by understated tannins and a juicy finish. (2,299 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Madsen Family Cellars $26 2013 Heart of Darkness Dessert Wine, Horse Heaven Hills

For years, South Puget Sound producer Dana Madsen has been working with McKinley Springs Vineyard in Washington for the Petit Verdot he devotes to his Port-style project. There’s beautiful raisin, plum, Tootsie Roll and pumpkin spice aromas, followed by a beautiful body reminiscent of cherry cordials with nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. Its alcohol is nicely integrated, and the level of sweetness is restrained. (106 cases, 20.5% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Maryhill Winery $40 2015 McKinley Springs Vineyards Cinsault, Horse Heaven Hills The string of hits continues from Richard Batchelor and Maryhill, and special wines such as this vineyard-designate Cinsault add to the allure of this destination winery on the edge of the Columbia Gorge. This is a gorgeous red that offers so much from the start, opening with plum jam on fresh-baked bread and spiced ham. Fresh brambleberries take center stage on the palate, which is creamy and vibrant throughout, capped by s’mores topped with grated nutmeg. (220 cases, 15.3% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Award (gold).

Skaha Vineyard $26 2014 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Gerry and Sue Thygesen of Kraze Legz Vineyard and Winery have developed their Skaha Vineyard brand. This Merlot signals their eighth overall Platinum, five of those awarded to their Skaha label. The fruity nose W i n t e r 2 018 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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of cherry, red currant rose petal evolves into a beautiful blend of the aromas. And while the entry is luscious and pretty with cocoa powder and baking spices, the juiciness of pomegranate adds acidity that’s expected with a coolclimate Merlot, yet it doesn’t distract from the balance. (200 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: All Canadian Wine Awards (gold).

Cave B Estate Winery $50 2015 Cave B Vineyard Cuvée du Soleil Red Wine, Ancient Lakes Freddy Arredondo, the chef-turned-winemaker at his family’s Cave B Estate Winery, turned in this crowd-pleasing Left Bank Bordeaux-inspired blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Merlot (34%) with equal parts Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It’s a cherry-driven wine with a subtle presence of Earl Grey tea tannins that plays deliciously with the finish of red currant and plum. (120 cases, 14.7% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Wenatchee Wine Awards (gold).

Chateau Lorane Winery $30 2014 Quail Run Vineyard Mourvèdre, Rogue Valley Oregon winemaker Linde Kester, who lives in the southern Willamette Valley community of Lorane, has earned Platinum awards for his work with red Bordeaux varieties. Here, he taps into one of Southern Oregon’s oldest plantings for the top Mourvèdre of the judging. There’s a constant sprinkling of fresh32

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cracked black pepper throughout this red Rhône, joined by fresh blackberry, roasted coffee and a sense of earthiness. Sweet boysenberry juice makes for a long finish. (75 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold).

Drum Roll Wine $18 2013 Cabernet Manet, Columbia Valley Matt Frazier and Dave Hill Jr. worked with one of Woodinville’s cult producers and Art denHoed Vineyard for this Cabernet Sauvignon that first attracted our attention during Wine Press Northwest’s summer judging of Cab. A different set of judges agreed in unison that it’s a standout and a remarkable bargain from small independent negoçiants.

Aromas of toasted marshmallow and black currant still allow for dried fig, tobacco leaf and minerality. Its beautiful structure is filled with blackberry, plum and a finish that’s oh so smooth. (185 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest tasting (“Outstanding.”)

Platinum Lang Vineyards $55 2012 Riesling Ice Wine Okanagan Valley British Columbia’s original Farmgate Winery has the advantage of working with 60-year-old Riesling vines for this delectable dessert wine. Founder Guenther Lang’s nephew, Michael, manages the winery, while Richard Kiltz works with consulting winemaker

Robert Thielicke. The honeyed stone fruit aroma is provocative, followed by long layers of lemon gelato, raw clover honey, dried pears, sugar-dusted grilled peaches, nectarines, honeysuckle nectar and roasted almonds. (450 cases, 9.2% alc.) Award: All Canadian Wine Championships (double gold).

Bitner Vineyards $33 2015 Erletxe Tempranillo Snake River Valley Retired bee biologist Ron Bitner is among the champions in Idaho for the early-ripening Spanish red grape, and his proprietary name for this marquee bottling of Tempranillo pulls from the Spanish term for “bee hive.” His longtime winemaker and friend, Greg Koenig, worked with Dale Jeffers fruit from the breadbasket that is Skyline Vineyards for an incredibly complex and spicy Temp. It’s loaded with blackberry and black cherry, cured meat and coffee notes that trail off with a long savory element. (234 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Idaho Wine Competition (gold).

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 2017 Gewürztraminer/Schönburger, Golden Mile Bench These brothers plug and play when it comes to this consistently successful 50⁄50 blend of Gewürztraminer and Schönburger, the latter a cross of Pinot Noir with Muscat Hamburg W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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that was developed at the Geisenheim Institute in then-West Germany while Walter Gehringer studied winemaking there. Lychee and passion fruit, lemon curd and freshchopped herbs unwind in this lightly off-dry white capped by a jovial kick of acidity. (600 cases, 12.3% alc.) Awards: Indy International (double gold), Cascadia International (gold), BC Best of Varietal (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

medal. In October, this same wine that earned a Platinum in 2016 earned another Platinum.

White pepper and fresh herbs on the nose shout out Grüner. Fanning out on the palate are layers of Granny Smith apple, chamomile, starfruit, minerality, fresh sugar snap peas and lemon-lime citrusy notes. It remains elegant, spirited and pure all the way through. (442 cases, 12.8% alc.) Award: American Fine Wine Invitational (gold).

Maryhill Winery $44 2015 Elephant Mountain Vineyards Carménère, Rattlesnake Hills Oozing with juicy and sweet black fruit, this Yakima Valley Carménère raised by Joe Hattrup is both deeply flavored and zesty.

Boysenberry, Marionberry and black cherry with hints of dried herbs and underlying oak converge with nice acids and well-integrated tannins. Elegant with a satin-like mouth feel, the finish goes on and on. (101 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (best red wine, double gold), Washington State Wine Awards (gold).

Rio Vista Wines $38 2015 River View Red Grand Reserve Blend, Columbia Valley Second-generation winemaker John Little Jr, came up with a delicious blend of Malbec (40%), Merlot (40%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s elegance in a glass as lush berries and pomegranate gather up hints of earth, fresh-roasted coffee beans, molasses and spice box notes. It’s pure through the persistent finish. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.) Awards: Wenatchee Wine & Food Festival Wine Competition (best of class, double gold).

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $29 2014 Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley On occasion, Stephen Reustle will enter older vintages from his Grüner Veltliner project in order to see how critics view a wine’s progress. Earlier this year, he entered this wine in a Florida competition, where it won a gold W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Rocky Pond Winery $33 2016 Double D Vineyard Grenache, Columbia Valley David Dufenhorst is the D.D. behind the promising and large planting along the Columbia River downstream from Chelan, Wash.

Prosser winemaker Ron Bunnell was onboard for the crush of this Grenache, and Shane Collins took over in the summer of 2017, so they combined for this deeply fruited Gre-

nache. Aromas of raspberry and blueberry include fresh-turned earth, while an appealing earthiness remains consistent on the palate.

Black raspberries, brown spices, purple plums, loganberries, Marionberries form the core that’s underscored by brisk acid and firm tannins. (116 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Westport Winery $27 NV Shiver Me Timbers, Washington The Roberts family pays tribute to their many years on Maui with this Hawaiian imitation of a Sauterne. They blend POG juice with Riesling from one of the Yakima Valley’s top producers, which offers something akin to a nutty marmalade in aromas and flavors, backed by lots of acidity. At their on-premise Sea Glass Bistro, they suggest a pairing with the Cobb-like Salmagundi Salad, and proceeds help to build homes for Grays Harbor Habitat of Humanity. (248 cases, 11.9% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Barrister Winery $23 NV Rough Justice X, Columbia Valley A number of Washington state’s most venerable vineyards, such as Bacchus, Dionysus, Dwelley, Kiona, Pepper Bridge and Weinbau, give Spokane Cork District attorneys Greg Lipsker and Michael White plenty of evidence for one of the region’s most popular red wines. Merlot traditionally leads the blend, followed closely by the influence of Syrah which fleshes out the midpalate for their W i n t e r 2 018 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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winemaker, Tyler Walters. The latest is no exception with its jammy goodness as blackberry, olallieberry and blueberry are met by toasty notes, vanilla bean, a hint of spice and cocoa powder. Purity and palate weight is backed by a bright finish. (1,700 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Blind Creek Collective $60 2015 Consensus Red Wine, Similkameen Valley The promise of Blind Creek Vineyards in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley prompted the Luckhurst family at Road 13 to not only enter into a partnership but also create a separate tier devoted to this 100-acre property. Jeff Del Nin’s Merlot-led Right Bank inspiration straddles New World and Old World with its dark purple fruit and earthiness. Well-managed oak and spiced blackberry compote meld within a powerful structure that offers depth and age-worthy tannins. (364 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: National Wine Awards of Canada (gold).

Browne Family Vineyards $45 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Among the Pacific Northwest’s most competitive Cabs was made by Waterbrook winemaker John Freeman for Precept Wine CEO Andrew Browne’s eponymous label. Three Red Mountain vineyards factored heavily into it — Blue Mountain, Quintessence and Dick & Wendy Shaw’s — which sets the table for 34

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greatness. There’s blackberry jam, cassis and chai spice running throughout, and the delicious mouth feel includes dried herbs, blueberry skin tannins and a stunning finish of roasted meat and cherry pie filling. (6,700 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Seattle Wine Awards (gold), Wine Press Northwest tasting of Cabernet Sauvignon (Outstanding!)

College Cellars of Walla Walla $20 2017 Chardonnay, Walla Walla Valley Winemaking instructor Tim Donahue and his students continue to reel in gold medals with seemingly every bottling, and their big and round Chardonnay has gone Platinum.

There’s a pleasing grassy nose with starfruit, ripe pear and citrus that’s realized on the palate with Bosc pear and Granny Smith apple. It’s big and round yet not at all flabby.

(100 cases, 13.4% alc.) Award: Indy International Wine Competition (gold).

College Cellars of Walla Walla $18 2017 Clarke Vineyard Sèmillon, Walla Walla Valley The late Stan Clarke lives on in the hearts and minds of students and faculty at Walla Walla Community College, and the vineyard he doted on near the Walla Walla airport continues to flourish. Winemaking educator Tim Donahue and his students pulled from Clarke Vineyard for one of the state’s top white wines released in 2018. Charming aromas of peach, lemon custard, honeysuckle and

limestone lead to flavors of white peach and nectarine. There’s a touch of canola oil in the midpalate for complexity, but that’s whisked clean by a long finish of Meyer lemon and apricot. (60 cases, 13.3% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Awards (best white, gold).

Damsel Cellars $36 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec, Columbia Valley Mari Womack worked at some of Woodinville’s top boutique wineries before launching her own brand with the 2013 vintage, and she uses a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) to build upon the framework of Stillwater Creek fruit. The 22 months in seasoned French oak barrels keep the focus on the wild berry and black currant as spice and black tea tannins mesh perfectly with the blueberry acidity. (88 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Eye of the Needle Winery $35 2014 The Point Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley Woodinville negoçiant Bob Bullock arrived at this Cab Franc-based blend involving Stillwater Creek Vineyard for a well-balanced wine. It’s radiant and pure as red cherries, raspberries and fresh strawberries join Italian herbs. Toasted oak nuances glide across the palate that’s capped by a bright, fresh, long and satisfying finish. (52 cases, 15.2% alc.)

Award: Cascadia International (gold).

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Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $14 2017 Dry Rock Unoaked Chardonnay, Golden Mile Bench Here is the third time in four vintages that this historic property near Oliver, British Columbia, has earned at least a Platinum for their estate unbaked Chardonnay program.

Lemon-lime, passionfruit and a bite of gooseberry form a complex nose. Inside, there’s gorgeous acidity as minerality. light grapefruit flavors and lime combine for a remarkable mouth feel. (1,500 cases, 13.1% alc.) Awards: Indy International (best of class, double gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $16 2017 Dry Rock Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley This winery just south of Oliver, British Columbia, routinely sells out of its white wines by the time the next vintage is ready, and it’s easy to see why with this heavily decorated Sauvignon Blanc off the Gehringer brothers’ estate. It’s complex from start to finish with starfruit and gooseberry, joined by mango, a scrape of minerality and citrus fruit.

(600 cases, 13.1% alc.) Award: Indy International Wine Competition (gold), Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (best of class, gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (best of class, gold), BritW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ish Columbia Best of Varietal Awards (best of class), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $14 2017 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley This showy Riesling-based white variety was developed in Geisenheim, West Germany, and Walter Gehringer earned his winemaking degree. It’s intensely aromatic with honeydew melon and apricot on the nose. On the palate, its lively flavors of crisp pear, a splash of lime, dried apricot, clover honey and blanched almonds unfold delectably. The finish is clean and refreshing with a tinge of anise. (2,500 cases, 12.9 alc.) Awards: Indy International Wine Competition (gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Best Buy! Jones of Washington $14 2017 Rosé of Syrah, Ancient Lakes Victor Palencia dialed down the hue a bit from previous vintages, but he didn’t alter the appeal of this rosé. Aromas of strawberry and citrus zest reach out and grab you, pulling you in for delicious and seamless tangerine and lemon/lime flavors. It doesn’t have screaming acidity, making it a gateway for those new to rosé. (1,089 cases, 12.3% alc.) Awards: Seattle Wine Awards (gold), Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (double gold).

Best Buy! Larch Hills Winery $15 2016 North Okanagan Lemberger, British Columbia Jack Manser makes his wine in Salmon Arm, but he sources his Lemberger to the south at Knorr Vineyard in Kelowna. The work with stainless steel fermentation makes for a wildly aromatic red. Bing cherry, a twist of multi-colored peppercorns, thyme, black raspberry and a splash of Dr Pepper entwine gracefully. The involvement of oak is skillfully managed and sits perfectly in the background, making for a well-balanced example of Blaufränkisch with good depth through the succulent finish. (350 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

Love That Red Winery $50 2015 Rivière Galets Vineyard Fillies & Mares Grenache, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater Woodinville winemaker Terry Wells sticks with his horse racing theme for this stunning Grenache. Chopped herbs and a hint of earth on the nose. Filling the mouth are wild raspberries, blueberry pastry, loganberries and blood orange with nice savory spice accents.

Toasty oak notes add dimension without being over the top, and the finish is round and juicy. (91 cases, 14.8% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle (gold), 2017 Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold).

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2015 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills Dai Crisp’s 25 years of work with Temperance Hills has played a key role in raising the profile of the Eola-Amity Hills. As a result, he’s a recent inductee into the Oregon State University Hall of Fame. His longtime winemaker for his own Lumos Wine Co., brand, Julia Cattrall, shows restraint with this superexpressive Pinot Noir that’s red-fruited with Maraschino cherry, raspberry and cranberry sauce. A nibble of plum skins still leaves the door open to a sprinkle of minerality and a slice of spice cake. (199 cases, 14% alc.)

Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

Maryhill Winery $49 2015 Kiona Vineyards Heart of the Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain The winemaking Williams family plays a role in many of Washington’s top examples of Cab. Here, they served as growers to talented Richard Batchelor. Blackcurrant, blackberry, Damson plum, fresh pipe tobacco, Bing cherry, eucalyptus, a touch of crushed mint, nutmeg and toasted oak spice marry delectably.

Red Mountain’s telltale firm tannins and lively acidity support the fine core of fruit as the depth and synchronization of flavors carries long after the last drop. (178 cases, 15.2% alc.)

Award: Indy International Wine Competition (gold).

Owen Roe Winery 2015 Chapel Block Syrah, 36

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Yakima Valley Close proximity to the Sauer family’s historic Red Willow Vineyard in the foothills of Mount Adams helped inspire David O’Reilly to begin making wine in the Yakima Valley.

He shows reverence to these rows of Syrah the late David Lake walked in this bottling with its plum and pomegranate flavors, which come with touches of violet, roasted coffee, fresh mint and the turn of a pepper mill. (420 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Cascadia International (gold).

Palencia Wine Co. $36 2015 Grenache, Yakima Valley This wine holds a special place in the heart of Victor Palencia. He was mentored by Willow Crest vintner David Minick, and their relationship continues to this day. Minick, who now oversees of Precept Wine’s 4,000 acres of vines, allows his former pupil to access Canyon Vineyard Ranch — the birthplace of this stunning Grenache. Fragrant scents of crushed red raspberries and savory notes are stimulating. Pomegranate juice, spicy raspberry chutney, grapefruit and red cherries energize the palate. Pure, distinctive and wellbalanced with lively acidity through the elegant final sip. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Palouse Winery $32 Dog Day Chardonnay, Washington Puget Sound winemaker George Kirkish reaches into the Rattlesnake Hills to pull

Chardonnay off one of the state’s most historic sites at Portteus Vineyard. The 50⁄50 blend of neutral French oak and stainless steel leads to a blend of stone fruit, citrus and lanolin aromas followed by bone-dry flavors Asian pear, lemon peel and lime, capped by apricot custard and apple skin. (60 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Rocky Pond Winery $42 2016 Double D Vineyard Malbec, Columbia Valley There’s growing interest in the Dufenhorst family’s 165-acre site below Knapps Hills Tunnel near Chelan, Wash., and this Malbec serves as more evidence of its promise. A mellow theme of plum and smoky oak is superbly balanced with blackberry jam acidity and a nice sense of tobacco and dried herbs.

(193 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Spangler Vineyards $28 2015 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon Our reigning Oregon Winery of the Year records its third career Platinum for Cabernet Franc. Black cherry and vanilla notes jump from the glass. Inside, it’s deeply fruited with black plum, fresh-picked blackberries, licorice, chocolate-covered cherries and sarsaparilla coating the mouth. It’s well defined and smooth with excellent balance. (268 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

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Spoiled Dog Winery $17 2017 Escape Blanc, Washington Cool-climate grape expert Karen Krug crafts this Germanic white blend of Riesling (85%) from Crawford Vineyard in the Yakima with Siegerrebe from Kang Vineyard on Whidbey Island. Scents of a white floral bouquet and wet stone notes provide a perk. It’s sleek and minerally, with pear, peach and nectarine, the accents of clove and fresh honey, creating a colorful blast of flavors. Brisk acidity keeps it vivacious, and a kick of lime zest enlivens the finish. (98 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Spoiled Dog Winery $38 2014 Estate Reserve Selection Pinot Noir, Puget Sound Karen Krug shows a keen understanding of winemaking with the grapes she and her husband planted across their 25 acres on the south end of Whidbey Island. This Pinot Noir from top lots of seven clones spent 18 months in 25% new French oak, and the nose is exceptional with cherry, Mud Pie crust and earth. Inside, there’s beautifully bright red fruit akin to cherry pie and graham cracker crust and a clean, dry finish reminiscent of sweet tea. (104 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold).

Tertulia Cellars $35 2016 Rivière Galets Estate Vineyard Grenache, Walla Walla Valley Ryan Driver grows the grapes and erstwhile W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

chef Ryan Raber handles the juice at this Walla Walla, Wash., winery with tasting rooms in Woodinville and Dundee, Ore. Their Grenache is rich, jammy and expressive with black raspberries, chocolate-covered strawberries, nutmeg, red licorice, a touch of earth and the sweet peppery note of pink peppercorns.

While velvety smooth, the natural acidity of Grenache provides the juicy and satisfying acidity. (150 cases, 13% alc.) Awards: Dan Berger International Wine Competition (double gold, best of class).

The Bunnell Family Cellar $48 2014 Painted Hills Vineyard Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley Art den Hoed’s viticultural tapestry that is Painted Hills Vineyard near Mabton, Wash. has become a go-to source for a growing number of top winemakers, and Ron Bunnell’s Petit Verdot serves as an example of why. A sense of earth on the nose opens to tasty wild berries on entry. A rich tapestry of blackberry, huckleberry and blackberry fruits, mocha, savory spice and subtle oak is showcased on the palate. With its silky texture, pleasing balance and firm tannins. (96 cases, 14.2% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (best of class, gold medal).

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $32 2014 Oldfield Reserve Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Bay Area native Sandra Oldfield made Tinhorn Creek’s Cabernet Franc program

arguably the best in Canada, and her successor, Andrew Windsor, continues to build upon that reputation. Cherry vanilla and hints of earth captivate the nose. Blueberry pie, cassis, bay leaf and espresso bean notes dance with earthiness and savory elements on the palate. Chalky tannins and a spot-on level of acidity pull the package together, and the aftertaste showcases good length. (800 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold).

Tsillan Cellars $28 2017 Estate Sempre Amore White Wine, Lake Chelan Ray Sandidge, one of Washington state’s most experienced winemakers, took over the program at Tsillan Cellars just before the harvest of his off-dry blend of Pinot Gris (79%) and Gewürztraminer (16%) with stainless steel Chardonnay (5%). Aromas of fresh apples and white flowers rise at first swirl. It’s delicate and lively as flavors of Honeycrisp apple, lemon zest, and fresh-sliced pineapple include a drop of sesame oil. Judges found it balanced and refreshing through the lemonspiked finish. (510 cases, 13% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Vino la Monarcha Winery $20 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley “A party in a bottle” is how one judge described this rosé that Victor Palencia pulls from the Jones family’s Two Gun Vineyard.

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The aromas open with the facial powder dustiness of the Ancient Lakes. There’s so much beyond that with this pink filled with lively red fruit that brings in orange spice to build upon the wow factor. (690 cases, 12% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Competition (double gold).

Walla Walla Vintners $35 2016 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Co-founders Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri helped put Cabernet Franc on the map and the winemaker that Anderson helped train — William VonMetzger — has continued that tradition with Walla Walla Vintners’ third career Platinum with the variety. Expressive aromas of dark berries and a touch of spice are fully engaging. Juicy and ripe with blackberry jam, Asian tea, raspberry candy, savory spice, cedar and graphite tickle the taste buds. Juicy and balanced, its firm tannins suggests more years ahead. (1,170 cases, 14.2% alc.) Awards: Seattle Wine Awards (gold), Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold).

Whidbey Island Winery $22 2016 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Last year marked the 25th anniversary of Greg Osenbach opening his tasting room in the middle of Puget Sound. He’s come to depend on three of Eastern Washington’s most underrated vineyards — Crawford, Coyote Canyon and Elephant Mountain — for his Sangiovese program. Here is a pleas38

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ingly aromatic, earth-driven example with a solid backing of red fruit. Broadening on the palate are notes of tobacco leaf, underlying orange peel, cranberry and spicy cherry compote melding in harmony. (300 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Wilridge Winery $30 2014 Wilridge Vineyard Estate Biodynamic Sangiovese, Naches Heights Seattle’s most appropriately named lawyer, Paul Beveridge, is a tireless advocate for Washington wine and a disciple of Biodynamic farming. In addition to using Demeter practices, he also ferments his Sangiovese using native yeast, giving it a fruit-forward theme with a touch of earth. Cranberry, Bing cherry and a thread of cocoa join in, and the grape’s elevated level of acidity pulls it all together.

(289 cases, 13.7% alc.) Awards: Seattle Wine Awards (best of class, double gold).

Amavi Cellars $24 2017 Estate Vineyards Sèmillon Walla Walla Valley Jean-François Pellet again affirms Amavi’s place in the discussion of Northwest leaders with the Sèmillon from this brand he founded with Pepper Bridge managing partner Norm McKibben. Les Collines, Goff and Seven Hills vineyards, all partner-controlled, contribute the fruit that went into neutral French oak. What has emerged is a theme of dried apricot and white peach with hints of botanicals and fresh lemon juice. It’s tailored to a

table with grilled seafood and asparagus. (978 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold).

Ambassador Wines of Washington $40 2015 Estate Diplomat Red Wine Red Mountain With Dick Boushey growing the grapes, Sarah Hedges Goedhart crafting the wine and historic Duckhorn winemaker Tom Rinaldi involved, this Cab-dominated wine carried quite a pedigree into this competition. Judges fell for the inky core of black cherry and dark plum that’s joined by classic notes of dried herbs and violet. It’s capped by a lingering spicy finish hinting of black pepper and cayenne. (288 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Barons Winery $45 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley One of Washington state’s top winemaking consultants, Matthew Loso, blended Cab from two of the Columbia Valley’s older vineyards — Conner-Lee and Red Mountain showpiece Hedges — for a Cab lover’s dream.

Its appealing theme of cherry pipe tobacco, cola, plum and dried herbs includes a proper level of grip from fine-grained tannins. And a deft touch with the 100% new French oak barrels for 23 months still allows for a hint of bell pepper in the food-friendly, lower-alcohol finish. (360 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Cascadia W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS

International (double gold).

Black Market Wine Co. $30 2015 The Syndicate Red Wine, Okanagan Valley Black Market Wine Co. is a garagiste husband-wife project by Rob Hammersley and Michelle Shewchuk at Mark Simpson’s upstart B.C. Wine Studio in Okanagan Falls. Their Right Bank angle of Merlot (32%) and Cabernet Franc (29%) is intensely flavored and layered as blueberry jam, black cherry, black licorice, boysenberry, black tea and dried herbs uncoil gracefully among long and velvety tannins. (225 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $38 2014 Ferris Wheel Estate Pinot Noir, Elkton Oregon This marks the sixth Platinum that Terry Brandborg has won for Pinot Noir. There’s a purity to the expression of this Pinot Noir with a sense of Burgundy, too. Charming strawberry jam aromas lead to delicate flavors of Craisin and raspberry. Its smooth tannin structure is joined by a beautiful finish that includes dried tea leaves and a pinch of earthiness. (465 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Cascadia Wine Competition (gold).

Cardwell Hill Cellars $32 2014 Estate Dijon Blocks Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This estate winery in the foothills of the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Coastal Range west of Corvallis, Ore., bumped its career total of Platinums to seven this fall, and all for Pinot Noir. The straightforward 50⁄50 blend of Dijon 115 and Dijon 77 was seen as close to perfect, screaming all the nuances of the grape that’s made Oregon famous. Gorgeous tones of cranberry, strawberry-rhubarb include spot-on acidity, discreet white tea tannins, a nice leather component and a dusting of white pepper. (225 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: McMinnville Wine and Food Classic (gold).

Colter’s Creek Winery $20 2015 Tempranillo, Lewis-Clark Valley Mike Pearson’s vineyard work in his Fools Block that overlooks his winemaking wife Melanie Sanborn’s winery in tiny Juliaetta, Idaho, proves that Tempranillo has a home in the historic Lewis-Clark Valley. This rather youthful example brings cherry jam and blueberries with reasonably tamed tannins, pomegranate acidity and finishing touches of leather and lavender. (291 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (best of class, double gold).

DANCIN Vineyards $42 2016 Ecarté Pinot Noir, Oregon This vintage signals the 20th anniversary of California transplants Dan and Cinda Marca attending their first viticulture class through Oregon State University. The Marcas routinely venture beyond their home turf in the Rogue Valley for their Pinot Noir program,

and this bottling is 100% Pommard clone fruit. It’s a charming and easy drink with rounded red fruit akin to Bing cherry and raspberry, supported by dried blueberry skin tannins and a curtsy of savory black olive pit.

(140 cases, 14.35% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Competition (gold).

Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $12 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Keith Kenison and his team at 14 Hands in Prosser continue their reputation for producing one of the state’s most likable, affordable and available Cabs. Part of the winery’s “Essentials Series,” it’s fruit-forward with creamy black cherry and blueberry in its silky tannins,which makes for a long finish. (197,790 cases, 15% alc.) Awards: Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition (double gold).

Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $12 2017 Rosé Washington A number of the Northwest’s top examples of rosé feature Syrah, and Keith Kenison spotlights the Rhône Valley grape for 14 Hands. That explains the theme of strawberry and watermelon, which carries the background acidity akin to rhubarb compote that keeps it clean, bright, beautiful and refreshing.

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(44,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (double gold.)

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $14 2017 Private Reserve Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley This marks the third career Platinum for Pinot Gris by these two German-educated brothers. Described by one judge as “rapturous,” it offers typicity with a great backbone of grapefruit and lime while performing a remarkable transition from a creamy midpalate of strawberry pie to a finish of lemon peel with minerality. (2,500 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Awards: Indy International (gold), Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Best Buy! Jones of Washington $17 2016 Pinot Gris, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Victor Palencia should be considered one of top Pinot Gris producers in the Northwest because this marks the fourth time that he’s produced a Platinum for Jones of Washington in the Pinot Gris category. He’s quick to credit the Jones family’s fruit, which he showcases with notes of lime and grapefruit. It’s a crisp style, and the enjoyable citrus pith in the midpalate leads to a lingering finish of lemon oil and that Ancient Lakes minerality. (2,093 40

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cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold) Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (gold).

Kiona Vineyards and Winery $45 2016 Heart of the Hill Malbec Red Mountain Wine Press Northwest’s reigning Washington Winery of the Year owns three vineyards on Red Mountain. Less than 3 acres are devoted to Malbec, but those vines produce marvelous wines for customers of the Williams family as well as their own brand. Scott Williams’s latest example checks all the boxes for Washington Malbec, with accents of white pepper and forest floor with an abundance of blue fruit. Its beautiful texture includes finishing touches of cinnamon and caramel. (142 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (best of class).

Lake Breeze Vineyards $21 2017 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley South African winemaker Garron Elmes excels with aromatic whites so Pinot Gris from the Naramata Bench overlooking Okanagan Lake is an ideal fit. It’s abundantly citrusy, redolent of lemon tart, gooseberry and lime oil, perfect to pair with white meat and appetizers. (2,500 cases, 13.5% alc.) Awards: All Canadian Wine Championships (double gold), Okanagan Life Best of BC (gold).

Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2015 Fries Vineyard Carménère,

$18

Wahluke Slope Spokane’s Mike Conway and his winemaking daughter Natalie Conway-Barnes combined for one of biggest values of the 19th Platinum with this red Bordeaux variety. A bit shy at first, this intense Carménère shows off nicely with aeration. Black currant, blackberry and savory earth elements, spiced oak, vanilla bean and black cherry crisp flavors are supported by firm tannins. Its finish displays the variety’s classic peppery notes. (425 cases, 12.5% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold) and Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

L’Ecole No. 41 $36 2015 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Mike Sharon began making wine at the little schoolhouse in Lowden with Marty Clubb more than 20 years ago, so he’s been on the ground floor of the planting of basaltinfluenced Ferguson Vineyard. That fascinating site comes together with acclaimed Seven Hills Vineyard, for a remarkable example of Merlot. It’s chock full of raspberry jam, cherry pie crust and dried fig notes amid a structure that easily speaks over the tannins with delicious acidity. (1,105 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Longship Cellars $36 2016 Invader Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley Kyle Welch’s internship in Spain continues to inspire him and the Richland, Wash., wineW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS

maker views Tempranillo as the variety that most fascinates him. New barrels with Zerbafarmed Cockburn Vineyard leads to tonguecoating tones of chocolate fudge, blackberry and blueberry as the gorgeous mid palate structure permits touches of violet and cherry pit on the finish. (225 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Lumos Wine Co. $25 2015 Five Blocks Pinot Noir Willamette Valley A collaboration between grower Dai Crisp and winemaker Julia Cattrall, Five Blocks represents both of the vineyards that Crisp manages — acclaimed Temperance Hill and his own site, Wren. This product of a recordwarm vintage leads to a really easy drink reminiscent of blueberry scones and Trappist Abbey fruitcake. Pleasing intensity comes with the finish of Montmorency cherry juice and a nibble of the skin. (449 cases, 14% alc.)

Awards: Oregon Wine Awards (double gold), Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

Maan Farms Estate Winery $27 2016 Raspberry Dessert, Fraser Valley This third-generation Lower Mainland berry farm began producing nongrape wines in 2012, and Gaurav Maan seems to have been a quick study. His fortified raspberry wine involves at least two pounds of raspberries for each bottle, and the fluid is pure, fresh-offthe-cane raspberry. In fact, the flavor is so vibrant and intense that it is difficult to pick W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

up on the fortifying spirits. (118 cases, 17% alc.) Award: All Canadian Wine Championship (best fruit wine).

Maryhill Winery $40 2015 Clifton Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope Richard Batchelor has gone on the record to proclaim that his favorite wines to make for Craig and Vicki Leuthold are Cabernet Sauvignon. That passion is evident with these 10 barrels from Milbrandt-owned Clifton Hill Vineyard, which conjures up thoughts of huckleberry syrup, cassis and dried cherries in a marvelous mouth feel. It’s backed by secondary notes of bacon, cedar, tarragon and spice.

(264 cases, 15.2% alc.) Award: Indy International Wine Competition (gold).

Maryhill Winery $36 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese, Columbia Valley The Leutholds have dialed in two primary sites for Sangiovese — Gunkel Vineyard near their Goldendale, Wash., production facility and Tudor Hills in the Yakima Valley. This exceptionally aromatic and savory Sangio fully engages the palate. Dried cherry, cranberry, hints of earthiness, gratifying spicy elements and a solid acid backbone drive the wine to a classic expression. It then finishes with style and persistence. (771 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Mt. Hood Winery

$34

2015 Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley The Bickfords and Rich Cushman work with this site near The Dalles, Ore., devoting 22 months in 25% new American oak to their four-barrels of Merlot. Fresh-fruit aromas of cherry, blueberry and plum include cedar and black peppercorns. On the entry, pleasingly soft cherries are met by pomegranate syrup and a long, easy finish of blueberry skins tannins. (96 cases, 13.9% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (best of class, gold medal).

Northstar Winery $40 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Dave “Merf ” Merfeld has been awarded three Platinums for his work with Merlot, but his Cabernet Sauvignon should not be overlooked. Pedigree plays a role, and this example features Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’s historic and immense Cold Creek Vineyard and nearby Four Feathers with Dick Shaw’s namesake planting on Red Mountain. Beautifully rounded with ripe plum, black cherry and dried herbs, including black peppercorns and savory elements. All of the elements are in perfect balance with an elegant finish. (2,800 cases, 15% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Palencia Wine Co. $20 2017 Rosélia, Ancient Lakes For years, Victor Palencia wanted to make a W i n t e r 2 018 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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wine to pay tribute to his mother, Roselia.

This marks the debut vintage of the Pinot Noir rosé that he creates a bit differently than his award-winning Vino la Monarcha rosé from the same grape. Judges used “beautiful” to describe this, which comes with hints of pink grapefruit and fresh watermelon salad that lead to mixed berries in the finish. Deliciously spritzy acidity makes for a perfect and dry farewell. (220 cases, 12% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold).

Palouse Winery $50 2015 Two Blondes Vineyard The Poet Red Wine, Rattlesnake Hills Vashon Island pilot George Kirkish saw a number of his wines take flight in 2018, including this Left Bank-inspired blend from Two Blondes Vineyard, a Yakima Valley site owned by Chris Camarda of Andrew Will.

The spice-driven aromas and purity of fruit are beautifully displayed. Blueberry pie, blackberry, a touch of melted chocolate, hints of tobacco and fresh-chopped herbs cast brilliant acidity across the velvety-smooth tannins.(75 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Puffin Brand $20 2017 Pinot Gris, Oregon Cannon Beach wine merchant Steven Sinkler wisely aligns the Pinot Gris program for his Puffin lineup with Capitello winemaker Ray Walsh, renowned for his work at King Estate. They tapped into Deer Haven Vine42

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yard and Lush Vineyards for crowd-pleasing Pinot Gris that’s remarkably floral and tropical as it follows through with mango and lychee before picking up a twist of lime. (120 cases, 13.7% alc.) Awards: Oregon Wine Awards (best of class, double gold).

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $42 2015 Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley has earned a reputation for award-winning Tempranillo, and this signals the second career Platinum focused on Tempranillo for Stephen Reustle. It is redolent of lavender, blackberry, cherry and dusty plum as a deft touch with barrel shows a nice use of oak. Touches of smoked meat and fresh herbs with beautiful acidity and restrained tannins give it foodfriendly complexity. (396 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Awards: San Diego Wine Competition (Platinum), Cascadia Wine Competition (gold).

Best Buy! Ryan Patrick Wines $15 2016 Redhead Red, Columbia Valley Two talented winemakers combined to deliver Butch Milbrandt his fourth Platinum under the Ryan Patrick brand. Kendall Mix took over for Jeremy Santo in the summer of 2017. Three warm sites on the Wahluke Slope came together for this blend built of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) with an easy push of Syrah

(17%). An abundance of sweet purple fruit pushes into a backbone of Merlot (22%) and Petit Verdot, where pinches of nutmeg and allspice filter into the finish. (3,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Seven Falls Cellars $18 2015 Rapids Red, Wahluke Slope Now a legacy of recently retired Ste. Michelle executive Doug Gore, this young brand is in the hands of Reid Klei, now into his second decade working at Columbia Crest.

Syrah from Mrachek Vineyard dominates this blend with Merlot (35%), which explains the notes of bacon fat and violet that are layered with blackberry, strawberry and cherry amid an inviting structure. (15,000 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Awards: Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition (double gold), Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold).

Spoiled Dog Winery $23 2017 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Puget Sound Seven clones of Pinot Noir are grown across Jack and Karen Krug’s bucolic estate on Whidbey Island, and her passion for pink shows in her winemaking on this rosé. All seven clones came into play for a wine that’s alive with beautiful blood orange and pink strawberry notes, carried along in dry fashion by spritzy acidity. (85 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

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Stottle Winery $32 2014 Tempranillo, Horse Heaven Hills Josh Stottlemyer records his first Platinum, using a vineyard that’s been at the core of his Olympia winery program — 6 Prong, a former site belonging to Dr. Steve Elerding, whose records indicate the Tempranillo was planted in 1993. While it offers penetrating black cherries and cured meat notes, the hallmark of the Temp might be its amazingly pleasing texture. (135 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

The Bunnell Family Cellar $24 2015 Wine o’Clock Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Ron and Susan Bunnell collaborate on the Sangiovese served at their Wine o’Clock bistro at the Vintner’s Village in Prosser, Wash. The compelling nose begs you to linger over the glass. Earthy, cherry, forest berry aromas and flavors shout out varietal correctness. This Sangio demonstrates elegant fruit, gentle tannins and precise balance from the inviting start to the lingering finish. (218 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold), Pacific Rim International Wine Competition (gold).

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery $25 2016 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Blue Terrace Vineyard around the corner from the might Black Sage Bench in the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

South Okanagan Valley has gone down as a breadbasket for T7 and winemaker Mary McDermott. Her use of oak came in dialed perfectly, accounting for charming toast and smoke, while allowing for hints of cherry pipe tobacco and lots of plum and baking spice.

The structure plays out beautifully heavy, plush and simply yummy. (1,038 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Los Angeles International (gold).

Willamette Valley Vineyards $55 2015 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley New York native Joe Ibrahim’s path to Oregon included stops with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Gallo then San Luis Obispo before receiving the opportunity to work with Tualatin Estate, one of Northwest’s oldest plantings of Pinot Noir dating to 1973. Beautiful lines of red fruit and Christmastime baking spices, including anise, add up to a winsome expression of Pinot Noir that’s nicely rounded. (976 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Aluel Cellars $40 2015 Coat of Arms Red Wine, Columbia Valley This brand, which topped the Platinum with its 2014 Coat of Arms, took a different approach with its Meritage-style wine from the 2015 vintage. Merlot (73%) steers the ship with Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) and Petit Verdot filling in the gaps. It’s pleasing on the nose with deep, dark fruits as black cherry,

plum and blackberry compote meld in harmony with savory spice and subtle earthiness.

Well-structured and balanced, refined tannins provide support, giving it appeal from first sip to last. (35 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Cardwell Hill Cellars $24 2015 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Dan Chapel, among Oregon’s most overlooked winemakers, produces one of the state’s most approachable and affordable examples of independently grown Pinot Noir. His dryfarmed, four-clone collage of Dijon 115, Dijon 777, Pommard and Wadenswil is perfectly bright with candied cherry, Craisins and pomegranate. Background notes of lilac, dusty earth and savory olive give it complexity and grace. (2,365 cases, 13.9 alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Cassini Cellars $40 2014 Bella Vineyard Limited Edition Nobilus Merlot, Okanagan Valley Winemaking and grape growing in Adrian Cassini’s family runs deep. Near the Golden Mile, he’s transformed what used to be a huge lavender farm into one of British Columbia’s top brands. His vineyard-designate Merlot is a cool-climate example that offers aromas of blackberry jam, chocolate and cedar. On the attack, it’s rounded and dark with plum sauce, bittersweet chocolate and baking spice, backed by a sense of graphite. (200 cases, 15% alc.)

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Award: Intervin International Wine Awards (gold).

Chateau Ste. Michelle $20 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Bob Bertheau and white wine specialist David Rosenthal collaborate on what is one of Washington’s top examples of Chardonnay. Their work with the perfect amount of oak influence brings a hint of tastiness reminiscent of Baked Alaska, bringing a touch of meringue and apple in a fullbodied approach that finishes with sweet corn. (5,740 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (double gold).

Best Buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $13 NV Brut Rosé, Columbia Valley The sparkling wine house for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates has garnered 13 Platinums in 19 years. Northwest native Paula Eakin records one with this Brut Rosé. This is all about bright red fruit — think Montmorency cherry, red currant and strawberry/watermelon.

Her skill shows with the delicate presentation of mousse, while maintaining a sense of minerality and food-friendly acidity. (20,000 cases, 11.5% alc.) Awards: Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition (gold), Savor NW Wine Awards (best of class).

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La Frenz Winery $23 2017 Knorr Vineyard Naramata Bench Sèmillon, Okanagan Valley Founding winemaker Jeff Martin raised the bar in British Columbia during his early days at Quails’ Gate, and his reputation with white Bordeaux varieties has given the Australian access to perhaps the oldest planting of Sèmillon in Canada. Citrusy notes of Ruby Red grapefruit and gooseberry serve as bookends for the beautifully silky midpalate of honey, almond paste and lychee that head winemaker Dominic McCosker nurtured. (486 cases, 11.7% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

2016 North Okanagan Tamarack Rosé, British Columbia Jack Manser’s winemaking produced a trio of Platinums in 2018. His rosé is a blend of Lemberger from Knorr Vineyard in the Okanagan Valley with the aromatic white variety Ortega (80%) he grows at his winery north of Vernon. Its delightful color is an indicator of its off-dry approach, hinting at raspberry and cherry with its nose. Inside, the focus turns to citrus fruit flavors of Ruby Red grapefruit and Mandarin orange. The tannin structure and raspberry acidity will allow it to stand up to a savory meal. (342 cases, 12.6% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

La Frenz Winery $29 2016 Naramata Bench One Hundred Series Vivant Reserve, Okanagan Dominic McCosker, recruited to British Columbia’s Naramata Bench by fellow Aussie winemaker Jeff Martin, turned this work with Viognier (50%), Roussanne (36%) and Chardonnay (14%) into one of judging’s top white blends. Pretty aromas of peaches and cream lead to round flavors of fresh-baked peach pie with nutmeg, a papaya smoothie and a pinch of dried tarragon. A nice level of acidity keeps it spirited alongside those lush flavors. (349 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (gold).

Ledger David Cellars $23 2017 Viognier, Rogue Valley Bryan Wilson, one of the Northwest’s top winemakers, continues to get pulled into Southern Oregon wineries that seek his special touch. That’s apparent in this Viognier for Ledger David grower/owner Lena Varner.

Classic orchard notes of orange Creamsicle, peach and Asian pear are ushered along by a beautiful presentation of the Meyer lemon acidity so often lacking in Viognier. The light finish of pineapple and nectarine pit are perfect for food applications. (219 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Award (gold).

Best Buy! Larch Hills Winery

$14

Love That Red Winery $80 2014 Daily Double Red Blend, Columbia Valley This Meritage-style blend by Woodinville’s W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS Terry Wells is steered by Cabernet Franc (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (33%) with Merlot, and it’s a triple crown of Yakima Valley vineyards with Dineen, Quintessence and Red Heaven. The fragrance is reminiscent of a stroll through a field of wild berries, while succulent plum, concentrated berries, cool spearmint, subtle spiced oak notes and bittersweet chocolate shavings fill the mouth. It’s nicely balanced with complementary acidity offsetting the dense fruit. (66 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: 2017 Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold).

Mt. Hood Winery $20 2017 Estate Bottled Riesling Columbia Gorge This marks the third time that Rich Cushman has produced a Platinum for the Bickford family using Riesling from Van Horn Vineyard on their century farm. Sweet fruit scents rise from the glass. Asian pear, ripe apricots and Ginger Gold apple interplay with dusty earthiness and a touch of minerality. It’s nicely balanced with the 3% residual sugar, and juicy through the lively finish. (225 cases, 10.6% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold).

Road 13 Vineyards $49 2013 5th Element Red Wine, British Columbia This proprietary blend from the Luckhurst family leads with Merlot and uses Syrah to round out the structure. Aromas and flavors of boysenberries, blueberries and chocolatecovered black cherries make it deep, dark and delicious, with a hint of candy apple on the spicy finish. (852 cases, 15.5% alc.) Award: National Wine Awards of Canada (gold).

Stave & Stone Wine Estates $42 2016 Broken Boulder Vineyard Dukes Valley Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge It took Jill House more than a decade, but she’s transformed her family’s 50-acre orchard in Hood River into Broken Boulder Vineyard.

Now, her downtown tasting room is yet another stage for Columbia Gorge winemaker Rich Cushman. He created an elegant and enjoyable fruit-forward Pinot Noir as notes of vine-ripened strawberry and sweet blueberry pick up structure from orange pekoe tea and bramble. (195 cases, 13.6% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

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2014 Merlot, Oregon While he’s since branched out successfully with Italian reds, Patrick Spangler made his early splashes with Bordeaux varieties such as Merlot. It is complex and conversational as jammy notes of cassis and boysenberry are joined by toasty oak. There’s roundness on the palate, which finishes with a sense of earthiness and slate. (244 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold).

stone in the finish, making for a well-executed Chardonnay. (100 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest tasting (Outstanding!)

The Sky River Meadery $26 NV Solas Honey Wine, Washington Denice Ingalls in Skykomish ferments and ages this lot of honey wine in Dry Fly whisky barrels. This mead dances across the palate in ballet slippers, not wooden clogs, which are so common to mead. Its aromas include lemongrass and starfruit, then wax, honey, coconut and a whisper of citrus on the palate to deal with the 14% residual sugar. (100 cases, 10.5% alc.) Award: NW Wine Summit (gold).

Warr-King Wines $36 2015 Descendant Red Wine Washington State Lisa Warr-King Packer began to learn about wine by working in the trenches beside the likes of John Patterson and Brian Carter and as an enology intern at Chateau Ste. Michell while earning her winemaking certificate at Washington State University. This marks the third commercial vintage of her brand, and her Cab Franc-dominant blend pulls from two historic vineyards — Rosebud and Kiona.

Herbes de Provence, dark plum and Marionberry jam include a hint of smoke and pleasing earthy edge as Montmorency cherry makes for a vibrant and balanced finish. (135 cases, 15.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Best Buy! Vino la Monarcha Winery $15 2015 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Victor Palencia offers these wines in Kennewick, but his Chardonnay comes from Frenchman Hills Vineyard in the Columbia Basin.

He uses both stainless steel and American oak to create a complex Chardonnay. Lovely aromatics of lemon curd, apple and passionfruit transition to more of an orchard fruit focus on the palate. A touch of toast on the midpalate and bright acidity allow for some lime-

Basalt Cellars $36 2015 G.S.M Grenache • Syrah • Mourvèdre, Columbia Valley Two years ago, Rick Wasem in the LewisClark Valley town of Clarkston received a Platinum for his Rhône-inspired blend. Here, it’s Syrah (44%) in the lead over Grenache (39%), which explains the delicious array of Marionberry and black cherry and young leather ahead of the plush raspberry and nicely managed tannins to give it a delicate farewell. (280 cases, 15% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

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A L L -T I M E P L AT IN UM JU D G IN G L E A D E R B OA R D With eight Platinum Awards at the 19th annual judging, Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery south of Oliver, British Columbia, continues to proudly wear the crown as “King of the Platinum.”

In fact, Walter and Gordon Gehringer, who have won at least one Platinum medal every year except 2001 and 2006, added to their lead.

Here is the list of wineries that have won the most Platinums during the competition’s 19 years: Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery: 78 Maryhill Winery: 61 Chateau Ste. Michelle: 36 Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards: 32 Zerba Cellars: 30 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate: 25 Thurston Wolfe: 24 La Frenz Winery: 23 Barnard Griffin: 23 Kiona Vineyards & Winery: 20 Westport Winery Garden Resort: 19 Wild Goose Vineyards: 19 Walla Walla Vintners: 18 Tsillan Cellars: 17 Smasne Cellars: 17 Jones of Washington: 16 Abacela: 15 The Bunnell Family Cellar: 14 Spangler Vineyards: 13 Domaine Ste. Michelle: 13 Alexandria Nicole Cellars: 13 Brian Carter Cellars: 13 Coyote Canyon Winery: 13 Dusted Valley Vintners: 13 Watermill Winery: 13 Clearwater Canyon Cellars: 12 Milbrandt Vineyards: 12 Saviah Cellars: 12 Cave B Estate Winery: 11 Brandborg Vineyard & Winery: 11 L’Ecole No. 41: 11 Palencia Winery: 10 14 Hands Winery: 10 Northwest Cellars: 10 Reininger/Helix by Reininger: 10 46

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Beresan Winery $40 2014 Carménère, Walla Walla Valley At the time of harvest, this Carm from Summit View Vineyard could have been viewed as “estate” because of Tom Waliser’s dual role as vineyard manager and winery owner. However, Balboa Winery owner Tom Glase agreed to take over Beresan and Glase now works with Tyler Grennan on the wines.

Hints of violets on the nose chart the course for this spicy and expressive Carménère. Succulent blackberries, purple plum jam, toasty oak nuances, black pepper, a tinge of eucalyptus and candied cherries meld in harmony.

Lively acids keep it balanced through the juicy finish. (500 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold).

Cedar River Cellars $40 2015 It’s A Long Way Barrel Select Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley Eight times a Cabernet Franc went on to earn Platinum, and winemaker Micah Nasarow’s work might be the most focused of them all. He pulled from Two Blondes Vineyard near Zillah and used only free-run juice for this tiny, two-barrel project. Intense yet graceful with its fine balance, aromas and flavors range from black plums, mixed berry jam, thyme, black licorice, earthiness and lead pencil shavings. Threads of minerality and food-friendly acidity carries through the finish. (35 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Clearwater Canyon Cellars $28 2015 Petite Sirah, Washington Idaho winemaker Coco Umiker, Ph.D., toured the Horse Heaven Hills and came down with Petite Sirah (84%), Petit Verdot (12%) and Carménère from the Verheys’ Roosevelt Ridge Vineyard near The Burn and Phinny Hill near famed Champoux Vineyard.

Penetrating while maintaining elegance, this lovely wine has showy varietal characteristics.

Black plum, boysenberry, subtle earthiness, a hint of tar and savory spice create a tasty and spirited flow through the palate. Refined tannins and a silky mouth feel top it gracefully. (208 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Sip Northwest ‘Best of the Northwest’ (gold).

Clearwater Canyon Cellars $45 2014 Selway Red Wine, Washington Lewis-Clark Valley winemaker Coco Umiker follows up the 2013 Selway that wowed judges at the San Francisco International by leaning this time on Malbec (37%), Merlot

(30%) and Petit Verdot (26%) . It spent 30 months in 30% new American oak barrels, creating a deep, dark and intense mood of blackberry cobbler, sweet boysenberries, cassis and toasted spices with mocha. It comes wrapped in firm tannins and a nice thread of licorice. (156 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: Cascadia International (double gold).

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $36 2015 Estate Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir, McMinnville Scott Neal’s vineyard, which he planted in the coastal foothills near McMinnville in 1998, affords him a selection of four blocks that went into this vintage of their Heritage bottling. It’s perfumy with allspice in front of sweetened cranberries and blueberry. There’s very little discussion of tannins, which are replaced by a mineral finish. (932 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Colter’s Creek Winery $20 2015 Arrow Rim GSM, Idaho This husband/wife duo recently became the second producers in the Gem State to operate two tasting rooms by opening one near the University of Idaho, and their blending of Grenache (30%), Syrah (40%) and Mourvèdre serves as another recruiting tool. Super-soft tannins allow for full enjoyment of blackberry and raspberry fruitiness as rose petals and cinnamon give it a finish filled with finesse.

(300 cases, 14.4% alc.) Awards: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (best of class, double gold).

Darighe $65 2014 Proprietor’s Blend Red Wine, Columbia Valley The Woodhouse Wine Estates in Woodinville includes the Kennedy Shah lineup, while Darighe stands out within those Kennedy Shah reserves. Jean-Claude Beck embarked on a classic Left Bank Bordeaux path for this blend. Complex hints of black currant and cherry are joined by a sense of herbaceousness from the Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Cabernet Franc (12%). Sandalwood provides a nice counterpart to the fruit, as bold tannins don’t overpower, leaving a gap for barrel notes of smoke, toast and caramel. (210 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $10 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Washington W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

In terms of vintage, this was the senior example of Sauvignon Blanc in this year’s judging, yet Keith Kenison’s history as a white wine craftsman is on full display. At this point, there’s no sign of his bargain Sauv Blanc slowing down as floral aromas of elderflower and alyssum waft alongside lychee, citrus and minearlity. On the palate, it pulsates with Key lime juice and jicama, backed by flecks of minerality. Bring on the oysters.

(66,000 cases, 13% alc.)

Hightower Cellars $45 2014 Estate Red Wine, Red Mountain Balance remains a hallmark of Tim and Kelly Hightower’s wines, which doesn’t come naturally in the cellars of those who work with Red Mountain fruit. Here, their blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (34%), Merlot (33%) and Malbec opens with sophisticated notes of green peppercorns and olive that easily give way to Chukar Cherry, cola and Jolly Rancher grape candy from the Malbec. A deft touch with the barrels helps to smooth out the tannin profile before the lime zest and Craisin pop up in the finish. (146 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Award: Great Northwest Wine Invitational Wine Competition (gold).

Kitzke Cellars $33 2013 Kitzke Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Seth Kitzke has taken over the winemaking for his folks in Richland, Wash. However, Charlie “Wine Boss” Hoppes helped get their wine program started, and the Kitzkes give the Fidelitas winemaker credit for this suave Cab Franc. Delightfully aromatic, it offers up florals and lead pencil shavings, followed by black currant, ripe blueberries, wild blackberries and sage. It’s smooth with savory elements on the finish. (65 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold).

Lake Breeze Vineyards $19 2016 Naramata Bench Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley In 2016, Garron Elmes and his winemaking led Lake Breeze to receiving recognition as the Best Performing Small Winery in Canada at the WineAling National Wine Awards. A late harvest of their 25-year-old vineyard on this Naramata Bench paved the way to glory for this standout example of this Alsace-inspired grape. Gorgeous orange blossom and stone fruit notes include fresh sun-kissed apricots and juicy Freestone peaches as complexity comes from underlying stony minerality and a zippy acidity. (430 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Love That Red Winery $90 2014 Derby Day Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain Terry Wells’s family ran Thoroughbreds in Southern California, and their top performer was Love That Red, talented enough to win money at Santa Anita, one of the country’s top tracks. His purchase of grapes from two of Red Mountain’s up-and-coming vineyards — Quintessence and Red Heaven — helped him run down a Platinum. Aromas of dried earth and bright fruit hold your attention.

Boysenberry, Japanese plum, cassis, black cherry, hints of vanilla and warm toast, join pleasing earthiness on the palate. (50 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Maryhill Winery $36 2015 Art den Hoed Petite Sirah, Yakima Valley Faraway Vineyard, an Art den Hoed site near the Rattlesnake Hills, is the setting for this enchanting Petite Sirah that’s all about blackberries. Complementing the deep berry notes are flavors of spearmint leaves, dark plum, a twist of black pepper and well-managed oak. Vibrant acidity, the grape’s telltale chalky tannins and a long-lived finish combine to make it lively and persuasive. (159 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Indy International Wine Competition (gold), Washington State Wine Awards (gold).

Maryhill Winery $36 2015 Tudor Hills Vineyard Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley The Tudor family is behind some of the top white wines in the Maryhill portfolio, but they also help produce one of the Northwest’s top examples of Malbec. A lovely floral aroma greets the nose with this brilliantly balanced Bordeaux variety. Layers of juicy black boysenberry, purple plum and black cherry fruit, sage and dusty earth elements coat the mouth with a subtle hint of cocoa on the long, pleasing finish. (688 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Indy International Wine Competition (gold).

Best Buy! Nine Hats Wines $14 2017 Riesling, Columbia Valley One of the top wines under this sister label for Long Shadows Vintners — Wine Press Northwest’s 2018 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year — is Riesling, and Gilles Nicault’s approach to the Nine Hats example differs W i n t e r 2 018 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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platinum TASTING RESULTS from that of Poet’s Leap. Engaging white floral notes on the nose lead to juicy tropical fruit on entry. Edelweiss flowers, sweet tea, ripe pineapple, white peach and honeycomb come within a clean, lively and refreshing finish to the 1.25% residual sugar. (2,500 cases, 13.4% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold).

Pend d’Oreille Winery $18 2016 Syrah, Washington James Bopp, a native of Sandpoint, Idaho, recently took over the winery he’s worked at for the past decade. His blend of Syrah from Columbia Valley sites Coyote Canyon, O’Brien and Weinbau focuses on dark blue fruit aromas, white pepper and tea leaves before giving way to plum skins, pomegranate and cranberry, bringing a savory Kalamata olive and plum skin finish with well-integrated tannins. (397 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: 2018 Northwest Wine Summit (best of class, gold).

Blind Creek Collective $35 2016 Cabernet Franc, Similkameen Valley Jeff Del Nin’s winemaking and this Cabernet Franc from the fascinating Similkameen Valley helped Road 13 Vineyards earn the title for the top winery at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. It’s rich and delicious, oozing with boysenberry, spiced blueberry compote and plum preserves enhanced by accents of graphite and anise. Finegrained yet firm tannins lead to a remarkable finish. (191 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: National Wine Awards of Canada (gold).

Rocky Pond Winery $20 2017 ClosCheValle Vineyard Gewürztraminer, Lake Chelan Seattle businessman David Dufenhorst took control of ClosCheValle Vineyard overlooking Lake Chelan to help launch Rocky Pond Winery. Now he’s got Lake Chelan native Shane Collins making his wines. The expertise Colins brought over from his decade at Tsillan Cellars shows with this Gewürz. A pleasing jasmine aroma opens to notes of rosewater, sweet Mandarin orange and dragonfruit joined by loquats, clove and nutmeg on the palate. Nicely balanced, its texture is satin smooth. A bright lift of orange zest enhances the long aftertaste. (89 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold).

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Spangler Vineyards $60 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Oregon A decade ago, Patrick Spangler used a reserve Cab to earn his first Platinum, so it was no surprise when the results of this bottling were unveiled. It’s assertively beautiful and true to the variety with hints of violet, mint and eucalyptus ahead of the ripe plum and Marionberry. The tannin structure is both smooth and persistent, leading to finish peppercorn. (199 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest tasting of Cabernet Sauvignon (Outstanding!)

Stag’s Hollow Winery $22 2017 Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard Albariño, Okanagan Valley Albariño’s first ambassador in U.S. — Abacela in Southern Oregon — has served as a role model for Stag’s Hollow, so it makes sense that owners Larry Gerelus and Linda Pruegger and longtime winemaker Dwight Sick shine with this Spanish white. Sick recently handed the baton to Keira LeFranc, and sommelierturned-winemaker might describe this using terms as “steely” and “straightforward” with ripe peach, Golden Delicious apple, guava and sweet clementine with a sense of river rock.

(250 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (gold).

Stave & Stone Wine Estates $32 2017 Broken Boulder Vineyards Pinot Noir Blanc, Columbia Gorge Still white wines made from Pinot Noir remain rare in the Northwest. Rich Cushman made the pick on two lots on Sept. 29. Virtually no skin contact and a handful of essentially neutral French oak barrels led to aromas of mixed fruits that pave the way to a yummy spiced fruit entry. Rainier cherry, cranberry/ apple juice and sweet Navel orange flavors receive a dash of white pepper for a perk.

Crisp acidity and subtle chalky tannins balance the bright fruit. (116 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Award: Oregon Wine Competition (gold).

Stave & Stone Wine Estates $28 2016 Chardonnay, Columbia Gorge The versatility of the Columbia Gorge is on display as Rich Cushman creates a complex and balanced Chardonnay for this family with nearly a century of farming experience. There’s partial malolactic fermentation and a subtle amount of new French oak on display with citrus blossom, crisp green apples, juicy ripe pears and subtle toasty notes. Honeysuckle

and lemon curd meet up with lively acidity creating wonderful lift on the energetic, zesty and memorable palate. (139 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold).

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $19 2017 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley produces some of the top Pinot Gris on the continent, and Tinhorn Creek pulls from two estate vineyards on opposite sides of the valley their Golden Mile Bench winery overlooks.

It’s a Pinot Gris with purpose, a cool-climate example featuring nectarine and lime early on.

Surlie aging in stainless steel builds a subtle touch of lemon curd creaminess on the midpalate before a finish of peach pit and minerality. Enjoy with shellfish.(8,700 cases, 12.5% alc.) Award: Wine Align National Wine Awards (gold).

Wilridge Winery $23 2015 Lodmell Vineyard Merlot Walla Walla County Biodynamic vintner Paul Beveridge sources these eight barrels of Merlot from Walla Walla’s Lodmell Vineyard. The winemaking attorney made his case for Platinum by opening with blackberry cobbler, cherry cotton candy and vanilla bean aromas. The flavor profile leads with blueberry sauce and baking spices as dark chocolate makes for a long finish. (203 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Best Buy! Yakima Valley Vintners $15 2015 Mid-Term Merlot Columbia Valley Students of the Yakima Valley College winemaking program were given the assignment of working with Merlot from Wautoma Winds Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The soft application of oak creates a compelling theme of black currant and Craisins, backed by slate and earthiness with a structure focused on raspberry acidity that one judge described as “magical.” This single-barrel project ranks among the head of the class and the price is a steal at the tasting room in Grandview. (21 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: 2018 Washington State Wine Competition (gold).

Basalt Cellars $28 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley Lesser-known red Bordeaux varieties continue to earn the attention of Northwest W i n t e r 2 018 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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winemakers, and pharmacist Rick Wasem in Clarkston, Wash., provides another example of why. Mixed berries make up both the aromas and the flavors, backed by sweet spices.

Skillful integration of soft tannins allow for that blueberry, strawberry and cherry theme to push well into the finish. (125 cases, 14.9% alc.) Awards: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Browne Family Vineyard $30 2015 Tribute Red, Columbia Valley Longtime Walla Walla winemaker John Freeman used the record-warm 2015 vintage to ripen reds and turn them into Platinum winners. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc account for more than half of this proprietary blend, but the involvement of Malbec (10%) and Syrah (10%) find their way into the discussion of his hedonistic angle with sweet pomegranate syrup, blueberry, Jolly Rancher grape candy and sweet tobacco underpinnings. (5,500 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Catman Cellars $32 2015 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Ted Johnson, Dennis Grant and Marlene Grant recently launched Catman Cellars in the North Willamette Valley, and while Pinot Noir is only a portion of their portfolio, they made a quick impression at their first Platinum Judging. Strawberry jam and dark raspberry notes come with a delightful surprise of flavors and structure as a rush of tannin is met by cranberry acidity and a touch of earthy gravel in the background. (80 cases, 14.9% alc.) Awards: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

Cinder Wines $23 2017 Dry Viognier, Washington Soul-crushing winter damage that struck much of Idaho’s Snake River Valley forced Boise winemaking talent Melanie Krause to reach into Washington state. Her reputation and contacts from her days at Chateau Ste. Michelle got her into Columbia Valley sites allowing her to maintain her stellar Viognier program. Thoughts of strolling through a Pike Place Market flower stand are joined by bright notes of Bosc pear, peach and Uncola, making for a fun finish. (1,283 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Award: Idaho Wine Competition (gold).

Fences Winery $42 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Rogue Valley The Lennon family hired one of Southern 50

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Oregon’s trend-setting winemakers, John Quinones, to work with the fruit from their 8-acre site, which he turned into one of the Northwest’s top Cabs. Concentrated fruit and toasty oak on the nose float up from the glass.

Black plum, cherry pie, black currant, chocolate covered blueberries and a touch of tobacco fill the palate. Richly textured with nice balancing acidity combine for a long, smooth finish. (287 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Sip Northwest Best of the Northwest (gold).

Forbidden Fruit Winery $26 2017 Pomme Desiree Iced Apple The Venables family launched Forbidden Fruit Winery in Cawston, British Columbia, in 2005, and son Nathan continues to change the way that many think of non-grape wines.

They start with estate grown, certified organic fruit, and this iced apple wine incorporates six varieties of apple. Aromas of apple, orange blossom and citrus zest come through in layers across the palate, backed by all-important juicy acidity to balance the 7% residual sugar. (150 cases, 11.5% alc.) Awards: All Canadian Wine Championships (gold).

14 Hands Winery $30 2014 The Reserve Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills Keith Kenison’s Platinum awards under spans a variety of styles, but his artistic work with blending might be his hallmark. The Reserve shows as a special project for him.

The 2014 vintage leans slightly toward Bordeaux’s Right Bank, leading with Merlot (31%) ahead of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Cabernet Franc (22%) and Malbec. Heavenly barrel room notes of vanilla and baking spices meld with cherry, huckleberry and blueberry.

It’s firmly structured and well balanced with lingering chai notes. (375 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Gordon Estate $24 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley The second generation at Gordon Estate oversees Washington’s oldest winery dedicated to estate fruit. The wines are crafted by Hillary Sjolund. A decade ago, her talents prompted Wine Press Northwest to name DiStefano the Washington Winery of the Year. Vines overlooking the Snake River produced an intense and spirited Cabernet Sauvignon with generous fruit and gentle, approachable tannins. Flavors of blackberries, plum preserves, cherry liqueur, dried sage, tea leaves, toasted oak notes and black olive tape-

nade intertwine on the palate, and the finish lingers. (2,986 cases, 13.7% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

Palencia Wine Co. $18 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley This delightful example of Sauvignon Blanc carries a nice tropical theme with passionfruit and starfruit along with jasmine, capped by a pulse of lime juice, lemon peel and Granny Smith apple peel bite. (275 cases, 12.1% alc.)

Award: Cascadia International (gold).

Tsillan Cellars $36 2015 Estate Reserve Syrah Lake Chelan This destination on the south shore of Lake Chelan continues to prove the region’s versatility. The state’s record-warm vintage of 2015 is reflected in this hedonistic Syrah. It offers a theme of plums, blackberry yogurt and sweet cherries, which are met by sexy blueberry-skin tannins, pomegranate acidity and a finish of Graham cracker. Enjoy with pan-seared duck at Dr. Bob Jankelson’s on-premise Sorrento’s Ristorante. (571 cases, 15.8% alc.) Awards: New World International Wine Competition (gold), NorthWest Wine Summit (gold), Wenatchee Wine Festival (gold).

Vino la Monarcha Winery $18 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, Ancient Lakes There’s remarkable consistency to the Sauvignon Blanc program for Victor Palencia, and this brand is featured in the new Columbia Gardens wine project in Kennewick.

Grapefruit and fruit salad aromas and flavors blend into a lovely white well suited for sipping alone or with a favorite seafood or chicken dish. (250 cases, 13% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold).

Whidbey Island Winery $22 2015 Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley Puget Sound winemaker Greg Osenbach used Yakima Valley fruit to notch a pair of Platinums, led by the remarkable work with Cabernet Franc. Beautiful scents of a floral bouquet and minerality set the stage for a mouth-watering entry. On the palate, black currant, sage, plum, wild berries, black licorice drops, and cedar join up with pronounced minerally notes. A tasty note of chocolatedusted raspberries on the long finish. (240 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $30 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS 2014 Westbrook Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Terry Brandborg works several corners of the Umpqua Valley for his Pinot Noir program, including Westbrook Vineyard near Sutherlin for clones 114 and 777, and this wine would have been in barrel when Wine Press Northwest named Brandborg as its 2015 Oregon Winery of the Year. There’s a wow factor to the profile of cranberry-rhubarb compote with savory black olive, teasing smokiness and lick of horehound in the finish.

(210 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: Cascadia Wine Competition (gold).

Best Buy! Convergence Zone Cellars $15 2016 Upland Vineyard Sunbreak Chenin Blanc, Snipes Mountain Scott Greenberg rarely strays from Red Mountain for his grapes, but the Newhouse family’s historic Upland Vineyard is an exception when it comes to Chenin Blanc. There’s no oak involved in this crowd-pleaser that fills you with thoughts of apple pie and white peach drizzled with honey. A sense of beeswax and orange peel bite provides plenty of balance to the sweetness.(60 cases, 12.2% alc.)

Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

cases, 12.4% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold).

Vanessa Vineyard $40 Right Bank Red, Similkameen Valley Howard Soon anointed Vanessa Vineyard as one of the Northwest’s most buzzworthy brands when he took over as its winemaker after retiring from Canadian giant Peller.

Merlot (77%) dominates the equation with Cab Franc (14%) and Cab Sauv. Yummy aromas of wild blackberries and licorice make their way to the flavor profile that joined by blackberry jam, savory spice, black cherry, anise, dark chocolate and toasty oak nuances.

Firm tannins and pleasing acid, combined with its deep fruit focus, make it perfectly balanced. (1,090 cases, 14.9% alc.) Awards: Great Northwest Invitational (gold), All Canadian Wine Championships (gold).

Cave B Estate Winery $22 2016 Cave B Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay, Ancient Lakes There’s a sense of early spring with this fresh Chardonnay, which brings orchard

blossom, cling peach and dried mango flavors with great weight and a touch of sweetness to round off the wine’s acidity. (600 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest tasting of Chardonnay (Outstanding!)

Woodward Canyon Winery $99 2014 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State Grapes from famed grower Paul Champoux’s final vintage at iconic Champoux Vineyard factor into this Cab that history has proved to be perhaps Washington state’s most age-worthy wines. Kevin Mott, with contributions from Sagemoor and the Small family’s own Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard, produced another extraordinary example, harnessing compelling aromas and flavors of dark plum, saddle leather, eucalyptus, blackberry, tobacco, black currant, hints of earth and spiced oak nuances, adding up to purity and complexity. (628 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Awards: Jefferson Cup (gold), Houston Rodeo Uncorked! (gold), Great Northwest Invitational (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Forbidden Fruit Winery $22 2017 Flaunt Sparkling Plum, B.C. Nathan Venables turned the heads of judges at the by returning a trio of Platinums to his family’s certified organic program in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley. Here, he goes with a frizzante style for the three varieties of Asian plum from their estate near the U.S.Canada border. He left it off-dry with 5% residual sugar, making it fun and fizzy with notes of jasmine, watermelon, rose petal, sweet herbs and stunningly clean finish of plum juice. (180 cases, 12.8% alc.) Award: All Canadian Wine Championship (gold).

Lagana Cellars $22 2016 Cockburn Ranch Vineyard Chardonnay, Walla Walla Valley Jason Fox, a proud product of Walla Walla Community College’s College Cellars program, works with the Zerba family’s Block 9 Chardonnay and he keeps the steely focus on those grapes. Tree fruits and hints of oak greet the nose. Bosc pear, citrus-splashed Granny Smith apple, lemon-filled pastry and fresh herb highlights flow seamlessly across the palate. Snappy and fresh with nice oak tones in the background, it is vivid and lengthy. (82 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Heritage Restaurant and Bar owner/chef Breanna Beike prepares scallops, one of her favorite dishes.

Richard Duval

Chicago chef fulfills her wine-country dream with Heritage Restaurant | Bar in Woodinville STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN | PHOTOS BY RICHARD DUVAL WOODINVILLE, Wash. — Wine-loving chef Breanna Beike grew up in the Midwest but wanted to open a wine-country restaurant somewhere on the West Coast eventually.

The big question was Washington or California, and she was getting pulled in both directions by winemaker friends Butch Milbrandt and Daryl Groom. Anyone who dines at Heritage Restaurant/Bar should be thankful the owner of Milbrandt Vineyards and Ryan Patrick Wines won the recruiting battle.

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“I’ve known her for so long that she’s like a daughter,” Milbrandt said. “That friendship has helped both of us, and I’ve got to say that I’m proud of her. Heritage seems to be pretty well-received.”

The friendship began a dozen years ago when Beike was a 23-year-old executive chef at the Columbia Yacht Club in Chicago. Milbrandt came in for a sales meeting just before her dinner crowd, so she brought out dish after dish.

“He was at the end of a long day working the market, and I knew he must be hungry,” she said with a chuckle.

They talked about food and wine and opportunities in Washington wine country. By the fall of 2013, she’d moved out to become the executive chef at the Seattle Yacht Club.

“I have really good friends in Sonoma who are winemakers, but I chose Seattle because I thought that I would have to work first in San Francisco before starting something in SonoW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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HE R I TAG E R E STAU R A N T | BAR 14450 Redmond-Woodinville Road NE, Suite 101-B, Woodinville, WA 98072 heritagewoodinville.com (425) 419-4760.

ma,” she said. “I didn’t want to do that.”

Groom, winemaker at famed Penfolds in Australia prior to launching his eponymous brand and becoming rooted in Sonoma, obviously doesn’t hold it against Beike or her husband, Chris Brende. Groom dined in the private dining room at Heritage not long after the April 11, 2018, opening.

“Awesome young lady and chef and the new restaurant is fantastic,” Groom wrote via Facebook. “We are very proud of her ... and Chris.”

At Heritage, Beike often sports a pair of lime-green, old-school Chuck Taylor basketball sneakers, which fits her “come-as-you-are” approach.

“This is not a fine-dining experience, but we have fine-dining elements,” she said. “We’re very much a community restaurant. I want people to feel comfortable when they walk in the door. We’re not trying to be corporate, but rather seasonable and approachable and affordable.”

While Beike and Brende do have an investor in their restaurant, it is not Milbrandt.

However, because Heritage shares a hallway and washrooms with the new Ryan Patrick and Milbrandt tasting rooms next door, she needed to convince state liquor agents her restaurant and those tasting rooms are not affiliated and do not violate Washington state’s “tied house” laws.

“At this point in my life, I don’t need to become a restaurateur,” Milbrandt quipped.

“It was Bre’s idea to do this at that site. She came up with an investor, and we rallied to get this together.”

Beike also credits her longtime membership in Les Dames D’Escoffier, the nationwide organization for women in the hospitality industry. She joined while in Chicago and became involved in the Seattle chapter. One of her Les Dames colleagues, restaurant consultant Deba Wegner, learned a garden spot was opening up in Woodinville’s Hollywood District. A Mexican restaurant on the corner W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Chef Breanna Beike in front of her Heritage Restaurant and Bar in Woodinville, Wash.

for 16 years was leaving its 6,000-square-foot space. It didn’t take long for Beike and Milbrandt’s team to mobilize.

“I already had my business plan and knew I wanted to do something in Woodinville,” she said. “I wasn’t sure who was going to be in this spot, but I received the phone call from Deba and the stars aligned with Butch. There’s nobody else I’d rather work with. We’re cheerleaders for each other.”

Heritage supports a number of her other Hollywood Circle neighbors, including Alexandria Nicole Cellars and Long Shadows Vintners as well as other Woodinville stal-

warts such as Brian Carter Cellars and Patterson Cellars.

There’s no doubt Beike has spent nearly her entire life working toward Heritage. A native of steel town Portage, Ind., she earned a bachelor’s of science degree at Kendall College, the acclaimed culinary and hospitality school in Chicago that had six alumni nominated for James Beard Awards in 2018. Her Windy City résumé includes three restaurants spearheaded by celebrity chef Rick Gresh — Green Dolphin Street, Caliterra in the Wyndham Hotel and David Burke’s Primehouse in the James Hotel.

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Sous Vide Bone-In Pork Chop with Braised Red Cabbage and Chanterelle Mushrooms Serves 2

2 12-ounce pork chops (Ask butcher for a center-cut, bone-in loin chop) 11⁄2 cups braised red cabbage (see recipe below) 1 cup chanterelle mushrooms 1 ⁄2 cup high-quality demi glace (we make our pork jus) 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1. Season pork chops generously with salt and fresh-cracked pepper. Place pork chops in a Ziploc plastic bag and squeeze as much air as possible from the bag.

2. Set up a sous vide machine (circulator) with a water bath, ( Joule by ChefSteps is a great home model), and set at 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

3. Drop pork chops in water bath and allow to circulate for 30 minutes. Remove pork chops.

4. In a sauté pan, sear the pork chops for 1 minute on each side. A golden, caramelized color should be the goal.

5. Pull chops and set on cutting board.

6. Serve with warmed braised red cabbage and sautéed chanterelle mushrooms.

Drizzle on demi glace and garnish with chives.

Braised Red Cabbage 1 large red cabbage, 2 to 21⁄2 pounds, quartered, cored and cut crosswise in thin strips 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 small onion, thinly sliced 2 tart apples, such as Braeburn or Granny Smith, peeled, cored and sliced 1 ⁄2 cup bacon, chopped 1 ⁄3 cup apple cider vinegar Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1. In a large pot, add bacon and render until bacon is crispy.

2. Add onions, apples and cabbage. Add apple cider vinegar.

3. Cook until cabbage is tender.

4. Season with salt and fresh-ground pepper.

Richard Duval

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Milbrandt Vineyards $28 2012 Vineyard Series Tempranillo — 375 cases, 14.5% alcohol Columbia Basin vintner Butch Milbrandt doesn’t shy away from the stove, and some of his first video cooking demonstrations featured Chicago-trained chef Breanna Beike.

“They did a series for a while where they had peel-off label recipes on the bottles, and I did recipes for them, so my name would be on the back of the bottle,” Bieke said.

“And those early videos branched out into his 'Pair This' series. I can't say enough good things about Butch."

Last year, the Milbrandt brothers officially reconfigured their operations. Jerry took over the vineyards and the custom-crush facility that Mix oversees — Wahluke Wine Co. Now, there’s also Ancient Lake Wine Co., a young and massive winemaking plant near Quincy. As for the winery brands, Butch, and his son, Buck, who already owned the Ryan Patrick brand, became full owners of the Milbrandt Vineyards.

Milbrandt Vineyards still pulls from many of the vines the brothers planted together on the Wahluke Slope — Northridge, Clifton Hill, Pheasant Ridge, Purple

“Both sets of grandparents had gardens, and they canned,” Beike said. “My mother made dinner six nights a week, and we baked a lot.

My mom never opened a box, so everything was from scratch. It was a huge influence on me.”

Hence, the name for Beike’s restaurant and bar — Heritage.

“It’s all for family and friends,” she said.

“My mom gave me a recipe box when I was 12, and it’s engraved on the bottom with ‘May you always cook with love and pride. Keep the heritage.’”

Welded elements that add to the décor of Heritage serve as an homage to her father, a welder by trade. “That’s where I got my work ethic,” she said. “I’m an only child, and I truly built this restaurant as a tribute my parents, based off those values.”

Maybe by next spring, she and Chris can get back to camping in the Cascades. They fell in love with Leavenworth and toyed with the idea of opening a steakhouse there, something they didn’t find in the Bavarian-themed town.

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Sage and Katherine Leone. There’s also Ravenscliff, which Butch owns himself.

Their wine program also leans on family vineyards in the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley American Viticultural Area, including El Castillo and Spanish Castle.

An early-ripening variety, Tempranillo got its foothold in Southern Oregon, thanks to the pioneering work by Earl Jones at Abacela in 1995. The grape now is gaining popularity in Idaho’s Snake River Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon rarely achieves the ripeness sought by most winemakers.

In Washington state, however, interest in Tempranillo has slipped. The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Northwest Regional Field Office reported acreage of Tempranillo fell from 94 in 2011 to 73 for 2017.

“It’s one of those lesser-known grapes, and we’ve concentrated on Cab, Merlot and Syrah because that's where the demand is,” Butch Milbrandt said. “You'll have to create demand, and that’s not easy to do, so if you are going to do Tempranillo, you’ll need to grow two tons for this guy and five tons for that guy.”

That’s not often the business model for larger operations.

Tempranillo has no problem getting ripe on the Wahluke Slope. Milbrandt’s string of

“A huge goal of ours is to have a small cabin to escape to, maybe around Cle Elum,” she said.

A Midwest up-front friendliness adds to her charm, and her interest in local history can be found on the walls in the series of black-andwhite photos of the Hollywood Farm and the town’s very first restaurant. One wonders if her modern American fare and inviting vibe might not have worked in Sonoma.

“There is a consortium of community here that’s heart-melting,” she said. “And every day I come out the kitchen and see the support of the wine industry and neighbors. Not everybody is always going to be happy — and Yelp will tell you that — but all you can do is try your best to make people happy.”

She first offered up scallops when asked about her signature dish.

“Even though my dad loves to fish, it wasn’t my mom’s thing, so fish was one of the biggest things I struggled with when I got into culinary school,” she said. “I almost lost an internship over scallops, but it’s become one of

bottlings for Tempranillo began in 2009, and Wahluke Slope Vineyard was at the core from the beginning. The Mielke family behind Arbor Crest Wine Cellars in Spokane planted it prior to selling the 150 acres to the Milbrandts, making it their easternmost vineyard.

During the classically balanced 2012 vintage, harvest came early and the bottling is 91 percent Tempranillo, joined by other Iberian Peninsula varieties Syrah (8 percent) and Grenache. The 2012 wine made by Joshua Maloney involved just 10 percent new French oak. That allows the wine to stay true to the dusty herb and food-friendly nature of the grape.

Since 2012, however, Tempranillo has become a wine club project at Milbrandt.

The latest features Tempranillo as a Spanish-themed blend co-fermented with Grenache and Mataro - a.k.a. Mourvèdre.

• Milbrandt Vineyards, Western Washington tasting room, 14450 WoodinvilleRedmond Road NE, Woodinville, WA 98072, (425) 949-7972; Central Washington tasting room, 707 Highway 2, Unit D, Leavenworth WA, 98826, (509) 888-2236, Eastern Washington tasting room, 508 Cabernet Court, Prosser, WA 99350, (509) 788-0030, milbrandtvineyards.com.

my favorite things to make, and I’ve done three seasonal preparations of it since we’ve been open.”

Leave room for her custards as well. Her deft touch presents them with a texture that’s reminiscent of a dense meringue rather than a heavy pudding. And don’t pass up her savory potato chips.

When it came to her Match Maker assignments, she paid tribute to her German heritage each time, starting with Alsatian-style sausage that’s chopped up and cooked in her Spicy Clams with Sausage. She relies on fifthgeneration Hama Hama Co., on the Olympic Peninsula for her shellfish, and she enjoys incorporating sausage into many of those dishes.

“At the Columbia Yacht Club, she would come up with things I’d never heard of, but they worked,” Milbrandt chuckled. “She’s a lot of fun and has a lot energy. She’ll be good for Woodinville.”

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Spicy Clams with Sausage Serves 2

1 pound Manila clams 4 ounces Italian sausage, cooked (we use a house-made Alsatian-style sausage) 1 15-ounce can of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1 ⁄2 cup lacinato or curly kale, chopped 1 ⁄2 cup dry white wine 2 teaspoons red chili flakes 2 tablespoons minced shallots 2 tablespoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper to taste Richard Duval 1. In a large sauté pan, sauté shallots, garlic and sausage in butter. Add Manila clams, chili flakes and white wine.

2. Cover sauté pan and steam for 4-5 minutes until clams are about half-way open. Add beans and kale.

3. Continue to steam for another 4-5 minutes until clams are fully open. Season with salt and or pepper.

4. Serve with crusty bread.

Ryan Patrick 2017 Rock Island Chardonnay while bringing out the wine’s Bosc pear and Golden Delicious apple notes.

Her German background showed again in the braised red cabbage served as part of the Sous Vide Bone-In Pork Chop with the Milbrandt Vineyards 2012 Vineyard Series Tempranillo. A French technique of cooking food in a vacuum-sealed plastic bag within a temperature-specific water bath, sous vide has been featured just once previously in the 20-year history of the Match Maker series.

Pronounced sue-VEED, it translates to “under vacuum” and is an ideal way to keep proteins such as pork and halibut moist. There are a number of sous vide devices on the market that precisely control the temperature of a stove-top water bath.

“We use Salmon Creek Farms and butcher our pork chops in-house,” she said. “It’s been sous vide for 30 minutes and then pan-seared 56

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Ryan Patrick Wines $20 2017 Rock Island Chardonnay, Columbia Valley — 700 cases, 14.5% alcohol Ryan Patrick Wines began in 1996 with Terry and Vivian Flanagan, who planted vines near the Columbia Basin town of Quincy and named the project after their two sons, Ryan and Patrick. Their wines found success soon after opening in 1999 with Charlie Hoppes as their first winemaker.

By 2003, Patrick was helping to make wine with grapes his brother was growing, but unfortunately he died in a car accident a year later. In 2011, the Milbrandts purchased the brand. However, Ryan oversees several of the vineyards that Butch Milbrandt sources from.

A few weeks ahead of the 2017 harvest began, Kendall Mix took over the winemaking for Ryan Patrick.

Ryan Patrick’s portfolio now features eight bottlings priced from $12 to $45.

Milbrandt and Santo launched the Rock Island Chardonnay program with the 2015 vintage, naming it for the island in the middle of the Columbia River downstream from Wenatchee. It proved to be golden at several West Coast competitions. An easy way to remember the angle of Rock Island is via the mash-up RI-Ch, as in “rich” and a signal to a reserve-style 100 percent barrel fermentation, with 18 percent of the barrels being new oak.

This 2017 vintage focused on two vineyards - Sagemoor along the Columbia River and Sundance Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope.

While there are still signs of the oak with hints of toast and vanilla, the recently released 2017 RI Chardonnay offers more brightness, balance and less roundness in terms of mouth feel from the malolactic fermentation, shining more light on the ripe white-fleshed orchard fruit flavors that symbolize the Columbia Basin.

“• Ryan Patrick Wines, Western Washington tasting room, 14450 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE, Woodinville, WA 98072, (425) 949-7972; Eastern Washington tasting room, 707 Highway 2, Unit D, Leavenworth WA, 98826, (509) 888-2236, ryanpatrickwines.com.

to get that crispy outer. The chanterelles are from a forager who brings us fresh mushrooms twice a week, and they were picked just outside of Aberdeen.”

Six years beyond the vintage is just about right for most Northwest-grown Tempranillo as the tannins are falling into a dusty place.

Marbling within the pork chop is met by great acidity from dark currant and Marionberry flavors in the wine. Savory elements brought by the mushrooms and pork broth fit with the earthiness and cumin spice of the Temp, while the red cabbage brings back a boysenberry brightness to the wine’s finish.

“The portfolios of Ryan Patrick and Milbrandt are so diverse, everything from your budget-friendly everyday drinker that’s going to get a 92 because it’s fabulous, all the way up to a $55 bottle of wine,” Beike said. “I’m a champion for their wines, and I’ve always carried them wherever I’ve been.”

Adding to her sense of pride in the relationship was that in November Wine Spectator named the Milbrandt Vineyards 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon — a $17 bottle — at No. 43 on its Top 100 wines list for 2018. At some point, expect to see a Milbrandt-built Heritage Red Blend poured at her restaurant.

“Wow, that’s the ultimate dream of mine,” she smiled. “How lucky could I be to own a restaurant and have people in the wine industry to do a custom blend for me?”

And look for it to be a food-friendly Super Tuscan-styled blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

“I love them because they are big and bold, and I’m kind of big and bold and gregarious, I think,” she chuckled. is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS JANUARY 18-19 Lake Chelan Winterfest, Chelan, Wash. Lake Chelan Wine Valley stages two wine walks, including a VIP trail. Go to lakechelanwinterfest.com.

24-27 Oregon Truffle Festival, Eugene. Chefs and foragers visit the south Willamette Valley, starting with the annual Joriad North American Truffle Dog Championship. It comes to the Dundee Hills Feb. 15-17. Go to oregontrufflefestival.com.

23 Wenatchee Winter Wine Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. This 15th annual fundraiser for the Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center features regional wineries and chefs. Go to wenatcheevalleymuseum.org.

25-26 First Taste Oregon, Salem. More than two dozen wineries are set to pour at the state fairgrounds, joined by live music, cider, spirits, beer and food vendors. Go to FirstTasteOregon.com.

FEBRUARY 1-2 Portland Seafood & Wine Festival. This 13th annual fundraiser to fight multiple sclerosis brings more than 50 wineries to the Oregon Convention Center. Go to pdxseafoodandwinefestival.com.

3-4 Enumclaw Chocolate & Wine Festival. More than 20 wineries return to the Enumclaw Expo Center for this 10th annual event. Go to cityofenumclaw.net.

16 St. Joseph’s Art & Wine, Kennewick, Wash. The 23nd annual fundraiser for St. Joseph’s Parish and School features regional wines, cigars, restaurants, artists and musicians. Go to sjske.org/art-wine.html.

11-14 Washington Winegrowers Association convention, Kennewick. Growers and winemakers throughout the Northwest gather for the 22nd annual meeting/trade show. Go to wawinegrowers.org.

highest-rated wines served at Yakima Country Club. Go to go to wineyakimavalley.org.

12-13 Oregon Wine Industry Symposium, Portland. Enology, viticulture and business returns to the Oregon Convention Center for the sixth straight year. Go to symposium.oregonwine.org.

11 Walla Walla Wine @ Leftbank Annex, Portland. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for two hours near Moda Center in support of the Classic Wines Auction. Go to wallawallawine.com.

15 Taste Spokane, Airway Heights, Wash. Northern Quest Resort & Casino plays host to this 12th annual festival that’s this Wishing Star Foundation chapter’s largest fundraiser. Go to tastespokane.com.

15-17 Oregon Truffle Festival, Yamhill. Chefs and foragers move to the north Willamette Valley and pay tribute to the late James Beard, an Oregon native. Go to oregontrufflefestival.com.

16-17 Red Wine and Chocolate, Yakima Valley, Wash.

More than 50 wineries in the heart of the Northwest’s oldest grapegrowing region pair their wines with chocolate. Go to wineyakimavalley.org.

17-19 Valentine’s Wine and Chocolate Weekend, Columbia Gorge. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River offer special tasting room events. Go to columbiagorgewine.com.

21-24 Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, Newport, Ore. The 41st annual event features more than 50 wineries. Go to seafoodandwine.com.

23 Oregon Chardonnay Celebration, Newberg. Formerly known as the Oregon Chardonnay Symposium, many of the state’s premier Chardonnay producers stage a public tasting at the Allison Inn & Spa. Go to oregonchardonnaycelebration.org.

10-11 Bubbles Fest at Anne Amie, Carlton, Ore. Anne Amie Vineyards and 24 other sparkling wine producers have grown this fourth annual event to span two days. Go to anneamie.com/events/bubble-fest/.

22-24 The Seattle Wine and Food Experience. Seattle Center’s McCaw Hall plays host to the 10th annual Northwest weekend celebration of wines from Washington, Oregon and Idaho with more than 20 chefs and live music. Go to seattlewineandfoodexperience.com.

10-11 and 17-19 Red Wine & Chocolate Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. Member wineries on the peninsula and islands pour it on over two weekends and Presidents Day. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

MARCH

9-10 Wine on the Rock: Wine & Chocolate, Bainbridge Island, Wash. Members of the Winery Alliance of Bainbridge Island pair their wines with local chocolates as part of Valentine’s Day celebrations. Go to bainbridgewineries.com.

11 Walla Walla Wine @ McCaw Hall, Seattle. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for two hours at Seattle Center. Go to wallawallawine.com.

24-25 Idaho wine industry annual meeting, Boise. Enology, viticulture and business return to 8th and Main, the state’s tallest building. Go to idahowines.org.

24 Secret Crush, Yakima, Wash. The fourth annual Secret Crush marks the beginning of Wine Yakima Valley's Red Wine and Chocolate Weekend with an evening featuring some of the valley’s

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2 Classic Wines Auction, Portland. This 34th annual fundraiser for Portland-area children sells out months in advance. It features famous winemakers and chefs on both sides of the Columbia River.

Go to classicwinesauction.com.

7-10 Savor Cannon Beach, Ore. Four days of wine and culinary education include a Saturday walk showcasing award-winning Northwest wines. Go to savorcannonbeach.com.

8-10 Sip! McMinnville Wine & Food Classic, McMinnville, Ore. This 25-year-old event lands at the Evergreen Space Museum. Go to sipclassic.org.

28-31 Taste Washington, Seattle. The Washington wine industry’s signature celebration spans four days of public tasting and education, concluding with two days of grand tastings at CenturyLink Field Event Center. Go to tastewashington.org.

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