Wine Press Winter 2014 by Wine Press Northwest

BEST OF THE BEST PLATINUM JUDGING RESULTS

W I NTER 2 0 1 4

W I NE P RE S S NW.C OM

72 HOURS IN DUNDEE Soul of Oregon Wine Country

U.S. $5

Canada $6 1 2>

74470 94059

VOL. 18, No. 359

Winter 2014

FEATURES

D E PA R T M E N T S

72 Hours in Dundee Soul of Oregon Wine Country

24 28

A toast to Paul and Judy Champoux Platinum 2014: Best of the Best in the Pacific Northwest

Wine Knows Washington wine industry maturing

A Distant Perspective Platinum results worthy of review

Swirl, Sniff & Sip Quality red blends abound

Big Reds Top 15th Annual Competition

Nom de Vine: Stories Behind Wine Names Mosquito Fleet honors shipping legacy

Slovakian refugee born into winemaking

Northwest Wine Events

Match Maker

Grapes of Roth

Creating new attitudes in Altitude at The Resort at the Mountain

Platinum judging: A complex beauty pageant

C O V E R S T O RY 72 HOURS IN DUNDEE On the cover: Domaine Serene, Winery Hill Vineyard and Jesse Lange, Winemaker and General Manager, Lange Winery On this page: Chardonnay Vines overlooking Mount Hood COVER AND INDEX PHOTOS BY CAROLYN WELLS-KRAMER

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t â&#x20AC;˘ W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Editor and Publisher: Gregg McConnell 509-582-1443 gmcconnell@winepressnw.com Contributor: Eric Degerman Contributor: Jade Helm Contributor: Andy Perdue Contributor: Dan Radil Tasting panel: Dan Berger, Parks Redwine, Heather Unwin, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Kristine Bono, Yashar Shayan, Paul Sinclair, and Gregg McConnell Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Graphic designer: Misty Baker Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Andy Perdue Contributing photographers: Carolyn Wells-Kramer, CWK Photography Dan Radil, Freelance Wine Writer In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 E-mail: cperkins@winepressnw.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our web site www.winepressnw.com Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619, e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2014 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

CO L U M N

the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

Washington wine industry maturing Washington's wine industry has reached a tipping point. It can no longer be called a burgeoning industry. Rather, it has matured into a small but important global region. Several milestones and developments along Washington’s historical timeline have helped the state reach this critical juncture, including: • Quilceda Creek Vintners' multiple perfect 100-point scores from The Wine Advocate. • The Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon earning the No. 1 position on Wine Spectator’s 2009 list in the top 100 wines in the world. • Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ rise not only as the dominant wine producer in the Pacific Northwest but also a vital player on the global stage. This is from winemaking as well as becoming the exclusive U.S. importer and distributor of top labels around the globe. • The arrival of several important wine producers in Washington, including Constellation Brands, E&J Gallo, Duckhorn, Banfi and Cakebread, to name a few. • The impressive growth of “made in Washington” wineries, including Precept Wine, Charles Smith Wines, Maryhill Winery, Hedges Cellars, Desert Wind Winery and Barnard Griffin. • Fascinating international collaborations at Ste. Michelle (Col Solare and Eroica) and Long Shadows (seven international winemaking stars working with Washington grapes). • Washington vineyards surpassing 50,000 acres, and Washington wineries growing beyond 800. • The establishment of large collections of wineries in Woodinville, Walla Walla and the Yakima Valley. • Construction of Washington State University’s Wine Science Center. And while these are highlights, something deeper is going on: an understanding of the land, the vines, the grapes and the winemaking behind them. 6

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

This struck me as I spoke this year to winemakers who have moved north from California wine country in the past several vintages and how they had to adjust their winemaking techniques and styles from what they were used to in Sonoma County or Napa Valley. I first noticed this as I went through my notes of Bob Bertheau’s top-end Cabernet Sauvignons. Bertheau worked for a couple of decades in Sonoma County before heading home to Seattle to take over the head winemaking role at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Bertheau is the first to admit that his reserve and vineyard-designated Cabs from his first three or four vintages were good but not nearly at the level of quality he can now achieve. For the past several vintages, it’s easy to see Bertheau has his style dialed in. He might walk more vineyard rows than any winemaker in Washington, especially from the weeks leading up to harvest until the last grapes are brought in. Understanding the fruit flavors, the acidity and the tannin structure have been the greatest challenge — and now his finest reward as he becomes more and more comfortable. In 2010, Linda Trotta arrived from Sonoma County, where she was a head winemaker for most of the prior 20 years. One of her first purchases when she took the head winemaking job at Swiftwater Cellars in Cle Elum, Wash., was a pallet of tartaric acid, a necessary additive in California, where grapes often arrive at wineries with little natural acidity. When Trotta left her position at Swiftwater this fall, that pallet of tartaric acid was intact because she discovered she didn't need it. Stories like these abound across Washington wine country. Many of the state's early winemakers learned their craft at the University of California-Davis. But what has been taught within America's most hallowed winemaking halls applies primarily to the Golden State. Winemakers who come north

have found they need to relearn their techniques because the climate in Washington's Columbia Valley is so vastly different. The most recent example of greatness at a global level occurred this summer, when L’Ecole No. 41’s 2011 Ferguson Vineyard was rated the best Bordeaux-style high-end wine in the world by none other than revered Decanter magazine in London. That this occurred using grapes from the challenging 2011 vintage was remarkable. That this was the first wine to be produced with owner Marty Clubb's newest vineyard is downright incredible. To me, this indicates that grape growers and winemakers are more easily able to recognize the right grape varieties for the right land. We're seeing this not only in the Walla Walla Valley (on both sides of the state line), but also on Red Mountain, in the Yakima Valley, in the Horse Heaven Hills and in the Ancient Lakes. Now that Washington is a full member of the world wine fraternity, the expectations are higher than ever. It’s a little like the New York Yankees making the playoffs: It's only news when they don’t. With the near-perfect 2012 reds hitting the market and the warm 2013 and 2014 vintages lined up behind them in barrel, the bright lights shining on Washington should be kind for at least the next three years. And during that time, we will see more wineries opening and more investments from around the world. And that will shine the light even brighter. Hold on for the ride. ANDY PERDUE is editor & publisher of Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. He also is the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

CO L U M N

a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Platinum results worthy of review

believe in the results of well-run wine competitions, and you would be correct if you thought that statement was selfserving. Since I run two wine competitions in California, and have a vested interest in what I call an alternative to scores, I respect the work that Andy and Eric (and their backroom Homme de la Mancha, Hank Sauer and his wife, Nancy) do each year to pull off a seamless Platinum competition. But I occasionally wonder if you, the observers of this annual rite, get what’s afoot when you see the results. Andy writes seamlessly, of course, so all the awards you will see in this issue will give you some insight as to why you should buy a few of these wines, based on your own likes and passions. After all, no tasting note can ever do real justice to the myriad flavors and aromas that a single great wine can offer, and here is where the word and the reality diverge. Someone once said that no amount of writing can ever truly describe a wine, and that the only way to find out what’s happening is by pulling corks. (Or unscrewing caps.) Now, I know what some people will say. They will argue that the results of the Chardonnay class or the Cabernet Sauvignon class, or any other class about which they know something, is not terribly helpful. They know what kind of Cabernet they love, and no Platinum or Double Platinum will erase what they think of the various wines they buy. Spending money on wine is the best way to determine the wine’s quality, they will say. (Never mind that people buy all sorts of things that do not deliver the quality they imagine it will, and then alibi for the result.) So, no, Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman do not need to write endlessly about the most well-regarded of grapes. We know what we like, and we can make those decisions for ourselves, thank you very much. But what makes these notes as valuable as they are isn’t what someone says about a

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

dessert wine (it will be sweet) or a Meritage (it will be dark red and go with steak). It is the varietal distinctiveness of some of the lesser-known wines that should make the tasting notes so vitally important to wine lovers. And that’s because few people know what a great Grenache is all about, or a great Barbera. Sure, these are “lesser light” wines that rarely get the respect they deserve, and thus it was a longshot that any Barbera or Grenache got so much as a passing nod from one judge, let alone a Platinum award, a much harder award to garner, from supposedly grizzled, hard-bitten, curmudgeonly wine judges. This is where you should be paying strict attention. It’s one thing for a Cabernet or a Merlot to get recognition from such wise old codgers; we’ve been doing this judging thing for a long time and are pleased when someone does a competition right. The key is knowing what a great Barbera or a great Grenache is all about, and then having not only the gumption to vote for it, but to stand atop the table (figuratively, of course) and plead that the other more recalcitrant judges get on the figurative band wagon (OK, it’s a cliché; guilty) and move their votes up from “gold plus” to Platinum. For a Barbera or a Grenache no less. In fact, not one but two Grenaches and two Barberas were honored at the event and here is why. Not only did the judges know what a great Barbera and a great Grenache are supposed to be, but they saw that one of the key components in all great wines, balance, was a part of each of the four wines they rewarded. Now, that’s an achievement, and it is evident in what Andy wrote about in the article about the judging. The 2010 Zerba Cellars Grenache, he said, had “aromas and flavors of blueberry pie, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper and just a hint of oak,” as well as “refreshing acidity.” Such a wine wasn’t as varietally distinctive

(less of the pomegranate than the next wine), but it was dramatic in its balanced approach despite higher-than-average alcohol. The 2011 Daven Lore Winery Grenache from Yakima Valley has a similar dramatic aroma of blueberries, and the fresh mintytarragon-y aroma note is fascinating. And then there is the varietal raspberry/cranberry mid-palate sage finish. What a wine! As for the Barberas, which are harder to judge, the 2011 Maryhill from Columbia Valley dealt a karate chop to the awful vintage and wine maker Richard Batchelor made a fabulously varietal wine. And the young 2012 Rio Vista Barbera was yet another winner because its varietal aroma and taste were not matched by aggressive tannins. Indeed, Barbera doesn’t generate as much tannin as other red grapes, preferring to live on the acid side of the line. One more reason to pay attention to the results would be the utterly fabulous 2013 San Juan Vineyards Siegerrebe from Puget Sound, a wine you would undoubtedly miss if you did not read these results. As Andy says, Chris Primus got five unanimous “double gold medals from five sets of judges this year.” A wine not to be missed. Another reason to look at the awards: Robert Smasne established himself firmly as one of the top wine makers in the Pacific Northwest with nine Platinum medals spanning three brands. Clearly this is a tip for now and the future. So happy hunting. And happy wining with holiday foods. is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). DAN BERGER

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

CO L U M N

swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Quality red blends abound

n the last few years, the Northwest’s winemakers have embarked on a voyage of discovery that would have been unimaginable a couple decades ago. Instead of making only straight varietally-centered red wines such as 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Pinot Noir, they have begun exploring our now burgeoning world of red blends — and they’re aiming for and achieving high quality. The chief beneficiary has been the consumer, who now faces a dazzling — and sometimes bewildering — array of wines few could have imagined in the waning years of the 20th century. Stop in at almost any winery, wine shop or retailer, and you can expect to face shelf after shelf of these blends, some labeled as simply as Cabernet-Merlot, others as high-flying as Hawk’s Haven. Here’s evidence of how omnipresent red blends have become in our region: At the recent Hood River invitational competition conducted by Great Northwest Wines, the region’s most influential wine retailers, restaurateurs and sommeliers nominated 382 of their preferred wines — including 72 red blends — for judging. Of the total, 87 won gold medals, or 22.8 percent. Of the red blends, 16 won gold medals, or 18.3 percent. Wineries and winemakers have not shirked on quality in crafting these wines. In the main, the Northwest has largely followed Europe’s example in blending practices. Most are Bordeaux-style, which means they contain some mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Next most common are Rhone blends, typically containing the well-known Syrah, Grenache and Mourvédre, often with a dash of a white wine, Viognier. If you detect a whiff of orange peel in a GSM blend, it may be a bit of this white’s aromatics emerging. Northwest winemakers also are experimenting with Italian-style blends focused on Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Despite these traditions, a Northwest red blend can contain almost anything a winemaker can imagine. For at least a decade, a slug of Syrah has been used in what is often called “Washington Bordeaux” to enhance the blend’s mid-palate. 10

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

And Westport Winery in Aberdeen, Wash., far from the main grape-growing regions of the Northwest, has built an imaginative blend called Jetty Cat around Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Petit Sirah, Tempranillo and Syrah. It’s a $28 mix of French, Italian and Spanish wine traditions, with a dash of Washington inspiration. And it also was a Platinum award-winner in Wine Press Northwest’s recently concluded “best of the best” judging of the region’s gold medal-winning wines. The Northwest’s current free-thinking, high-quality experiments into blending didn’t all start that way. Twenty-five years ago, a red blend was often a way to market a wine that perhaps aimed to disguise a batch of grapes that might have been a bit under- or overripe or that otherwise didn’t quite live up to expectations. Many of those older Cabernet-Merlot blends did, however, sell at bargain prices. And a surprising change occurred. Many of those inexpensive blends became not only a bargain but also a coveted cellar addition when the winemaker’s art, and perhaps a little luck, triumphed over expectation. Some have remained bargains while displaying excellent quality. One outstanding example is the 2012 CabMerlot blend made by Kiona Vineyards and Winery on Red Mountain near Benton City, Wash. This $15 wine also won a Platinum award in Wine Press Northwest’s annual competition. Best news of all is that there are dozens of quality Northwest blends at prices that won’t break your bank. In the Platinum judging, blends costing from $15 to $34 won 18 Platinum awards, with five of them rating double Platinums. That means red blends won almost 15 percent of the top awards. And none was a bankroll breaker. That honor went to an amazing $74 Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine words: Cremant The holidays are here, and the perfect wine for all our winter celebrations is, of course, sparkling. The French, as is their custom, have gotten all snobbish about sparkling wine in recent years and no longer allow us to use

their beloved word, Champagne. It now must be applied, commercially at least, only to sparkling wines from this singular region of France. Now you might think that the winemakers of Champagne would be beneficent enough to allow France’s other regions to borrow their term. But you would be wrong, wrong and wrong. The merciless winemakers of Champagne have no pity for their poor fellow partisans of the Alsace, Burgundy, Loire and everywhere else where French is spoken on the Continent. Insufferability knows all bounds in Gaul. So, the sparkling wines of such “lesser” regions have adopted a term once reserved for French wines with a bit less bubble. Cremant (pronounced cray-mawn in a land where the letter “T” suffers mostly in silence) was deemed the perfect substitute by winemakers who don’t hail from Champagne. That may be little help for we who speak English on this side of the Atlantic, but there is some consolation. As prices for good Champagnes have soared, Cremant prices have been much less volatile. In fact, quite good bubblies can be found for under $20 if you have a capable wine shop or grocer. And you will find Cremant is made from a much broader array of grapes, including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling, not just Champagne’s choices of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If not, as Northwesterners we have many other options, some made from rather adventurous grapes, including Gewürztraminer and Müeller-Thurgau. Or we can fall back on those reliable, high quality and inexpensive sparklers from Domaine Ste. Michelle, this year relabeled simply Michelle. Or from regional favorites such as Treveri Cellars of Wapato, Wash., Argyle from Dundee, Ore., Mountain Dome in Spokane, or Kramer Vineyards from the Yamhill-Carlton area of Oregon. Whichever you choose, your holidays will be happier with a little sparkler in your glass. KEN ROBERTSON,

the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WALLS Home & Office • Removable Reusable • Customizable No Wall Damage

CEILINGS Glow in the dark ceiling star murals (Invisible by day)

Customizable

Let us magically transform your space with

Call Today:

509.521.4419 muralprofessionals.com/strong Licensed - Bonded - Insured

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

CO L U M N

nom de vine

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Mosquito Fleet honors shipping legacy BY JON BAUER

n a stormy winter night, what better pairing could one find than a glass of wine and tales of the sea? Although you may need to get out your smartphone. More than a few Northwest wineries have looked to the region’s history when seeking inspiration for their names. Mosquito Fleet Winery, based in the Olympic Peninsula town of Belfair, Washington, takes a little explaining. It has nothing to do with mosquitos, except that the constantly buzzing insects were the namesake for the swarming fleet of steamers and sternwheeler passenger ferries that darted from town to town on the waters of the state’s inland seas, including Puget Sound, from the mid-19th century to mid-20th century, the precursor to today’s Washington State Ferries. The winery is the partnership of two couples, Brian and Jacquie Petersen and Scott and Jacy Griffin. The two couples, Brian Petersen said, had traveled together on wine-touring vacations through California’s Napa and Sonoma valleys as well as British Columbia’s Okanagan. “My wife made the mistake of saying, ‘Well, you know, we could do this,’ and we looked at each other and the idea was born,” Petersen said. Petersen, a Belfair-area native who continues to practice as a chiropractor, took on the job of wine maker. “I was already comfortable with the science background and started reading voraciously,” he said. The more he learned, the better questions he could ask of mentors that included Peter Prager, who helped him craft his port wines, and Washington wine giant Bob Betz of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Betz Family Wines. The couples found property for the winery off south Puget Sound’s Case Inlet, near a Mosquito Fleet museum, the perfect in-

Mosquito Fleet Winery www.mosquitofleetwinery.com 21 NE Old Belfair Highway, Belfair, WA 98528 360-275-9100

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

spiration for the winery’s name. The winery launched its first vintage in 2009 with a Cabernet Sauvignon, with grapes from Walla Walla’s Pepper Bridge Vineyard, Petersen said. From the start the winery has honored the Mosquito Fleet’s legacy by featuring a particular boat on various wines. Its Meritage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot features the SS Dauntless, a D Fleet steamer built in 1899. But to get the full story on the boats — and some tasting notes on the wine — you’ll need to snap a picture of the bottle’s QR code, that pixilated box of smaller boxes, with your smartphone. “We’re really fascinated with the rich local history of the boats, from Gig Harbor to Seattle to the San Juans,” Petersen said. The winery does its own research, finding images for the illustrations and getting the stories, some funny, others tragic, about each boat’s history. The Cabernet Sauvignon, whose 2011 vintage was selected by Great Northwest Wines’ Andy Perdue as one of its 50 top wines for 2014, honors the SS Dix. The Dix was a steamer launched in 1904 that sank two years later a mile off Seattle’s Alki Point after it was struck by the iron ore freighter, Jeanie,

causing the deaths of between 40 and 54 of the boat’s estimated 77 passengers. A bottle of Sophia, a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon, tells the story of the Sophia’s captain, Petersen said, who had trained his dog during foggy weather to wait at the end of the dock and bark when he heard the boat’s horn to help lead the captain in. It was a system that worked well before the days of radar and GPS, but it wasn’t foolproof. “One foggy day a group of people standing on the dock included a woman who was tired of the barking dog, so she shooed him off the dock and down the beach,” Petersen said. The captain, as he always had, followed his dog’s barks and ran the boat aground. History and wine have proved a good marriage, Petersen said. The winery often gets visitors, older residents, who share their own stories of riding the Mosquito Fleet boats. “It’s been fun to revisit that history and retell those stories that are so important locally,” he said. JON BAUER is Wine Press Northwest’s Salish Sea correspondent. The longtime newspaperman lives near La Conner, Wash.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

FEATURE

dundee

Knudsen Vineyard, Dundee Hills 14

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

WINEPRESSNW.COM

dundee

FEATURE

72 HOURS IN

DUNDEE // BY ANDY PERDUE PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLYN WELLS-KRAMER

WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Wint e r 2 0 1 4 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

FEATURE

dundee

A visit to the Dundee Hills is a visit to the soul of Oregon wine country.

hile not quite the oldest region in the modern Oregon wine industry — the Umpqua Valley holds that distinction — these hills with the red-tinted dirt hold the state’s history in their purple-stained hands. Here is where people with names such as Lett, Erath and Sokol Blosser planted Pinot Noir and built a new industry in ancient soils. In the mid-1960s, David Lett arrived here from California. Three decades after Prohibition had laid waste to any kind of Oregon wine industry, Lett set out to rebuild it. He put Pinot Noir in the ground in 1966,

making it the oldest in the Willamette Valley. They thought he was crazy, that wine grapes shouldn’t be grown in such a seemingly cold, wet place. That they shouldn’t be planted north of California. But Lett was a visionary — and a stubborn one at that — and he proved to all that Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay could thrive out here on the edge of viticultural viability. Others followed. In 1968, Dick Erath came north from California and a year later planted 23 varieties of wine grapes here. He learned what we all now know: Pinot Noir loves the iron-rich soils of the Dundee Hills.

In 1971, Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser arrived, planting their grapes near the town of Dayton and solidified its viability as a grape-growing region. In 1979, The Eyrie Vineyards 1975 South Block Pinot Noir by Lett showed well in the Wine Olympiad in Paris. This led famed Burgundian winemaker Robert Drouhin to buy land and establish Domaine Drouhin Oregon in the 1980s — and that put Oregon on the global wine map. Of the six American Viticultural Areas in the northern Willamette Valley, the Dundee Hills has the richest history and is, perhaps,

Domaine Serene, Two Barns Vineyard 16

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

WINEPRESSNW.COM

dundee

FEATURE

the most easily defined. The Pinot Noirs here are distinctive from all others, thanks to bright red flavors backed by acidity that bursts across the palate and tannins that lift the fruit and get out of the way so it can Lindy Hop across the palate. A long weekend here in the heart of Oregon wine country — a mere 45 minutes from downtown Portland — will be 72 hours of superb wine, delicious food and luxurious comfort amid winding roads and glorious discoveries.

WINERIES The Dundee Hills is home to no fewer than three dozen wineries and tasting rooms, and they generally break down into three areas: downtown Dundee, the hills above town and the wineries south of Dundee near the towns of Dayton and Lafayette.

Tina’s Restaurant, Downtown Dundee WINEPRESSN W .C O M

25 year old Pinot Noir Vines, Dundee Hills Wint e r 2 0 1 4 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

FEATURE

dundee

With so many wineries in a concentrated area, it makes the task of dividing your threeday visit a bit easier, though you’ll be able to visit perhaps a third of the region’s wineries in that span. While space limits us from writing about every winery in the region, refer to www.dundeehills.org for a complete list.

DOWNTOWN DUNDEE The most difficult task of navigating downtown Dundee is the near-constant traffic on Highway 99W, which runs through the center of town. The good news is a long-talked-about bypass highway that could virtually eliminate the problem is under construction. The bad news is it probably won’t open until late 2016. Here are a few suggestions to get you started in downtown Dundee. As you enter Dundee from Newberg to the north, the first winery you’ll likely see is Duck Pond Cellars. The Fries family opened the winery more than 20 years ago and crafts

Pinot Noir Vines & End Post 18

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

a wide variety of wines from its Oregon and Washington vineyards. One of the highlights of downtown Dundee is Argyle Winery, which you will find on the left side of the highway as you travel south. Argyle is famous for its sparkling wines but also crafts delicious still wines, including Pinot Noir and Riesling. Also along the main drag is Dobbes Family Estate/Wine By Joe, which features the wines of longtime Oregon winemaker Joe Dobbes. He was winemaker at Willamette Valley Vineyards before launching his own brand. The recently reinvigorated Panther Creek Cellars now has a tasting room in downtown Dundee. The winery was launched by Ken Wright back in the 1980s and has gone through a few ownership changes. Tony Rynders, formerly of Domaine Serene, is the winemaker. Hyland Estate, which is part of Laurent Montalieu’s Northwest Wine Co., has a

beautiful tasting room along the highway in town. The vineyard itself is in the McMinnville AVA. A relative newcomer to the scene is Chapter 24 Vineyards, which already is producing some highly acclaimed Pinot Noirs. Two wineries from other areas of Oregon that have tasting rooms along Highway 99W are Zerba Cellars from the Walla Walla Valley and Cathedral Ridge in Hood River.

UP IN THE HILLS When you’re ready to get away from the traffic, it’s time to head for the hills. Turn right (if you’re heading south through town) on Southwest Ninth Street, which ultimately becomes Northeast Worden Hill. It won’t take more than a few minutes to be amid the serenity of trees, and vineyards. Maresh Red Barn is one of the pioneers in the Dundee Hills. Jim Maresh began planting Pinot Noir in 1970 for Dick Erath, and the family later launched Maresh Red Barn Winery. Today, the family still runs the whole operation and has two wineries: Arterberry Maresh and Powell Hill. Erath is one of the original wineries in the Dundee Hills, launched in the early 1970s by Dick Erath. In 2006, he sold the winery to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates (CEO Ted Baseler is a native Oregonian). Thanks to an influx of capital, winemaker Gary Horner has doubled the capacity and greatly increased quality. Lange Estate Winery was launched in 1987 by Don and Wendy Lange. Today, Jesse Lange is the general manager and makes the wine alongside his father. Also check out their Domaine Trouvère label, which has a separate tasting room downtown. Alexana Winery is a young winery owned by Houston cardiologist Madaiah Revana, who launched it in 2006. The wines are crafted by Lynn Penner-Ash, one of Oregon’s most celebrated winemakers. The focus is on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling. In a region that is often breathtakingly picturesque, Bella Vida Vineyard is among the most photogenic areas of the northern Willamette Valley. Owners Steven and Allison Whiteside focus on Pinot Noir and a refreshing blend of Pinot Gris and Riesling.

WINEPRESSNW.COM

dundee

FEATURE

Winderlea Vineyard and Winery owners Bill Sweat and Donna Morris fell in love with Pinot Noir and moved across the country from Boston to launch their winery in the hills above Dundee. With the acclaimed Robert Brittan, they are crafting superb singlevineyard Pinot Noirs.

SOUTH OF TOWN This is a bit of a misnomer, as some of the wineries that are “south of town” actually are up in the hills. But you need to head southwest on Highway 99W to easily access them. And some are pretty close to the highway. One of the Dundee Hills’ original wineries is Sokol Blosser, with vineyards planted starting in 1971 and the first vintage coming in 1977. Today, the second generation has taken over, with siblings Alex Sokol Blosser as co-president and head winemaker and Alison Sokol Blosser as co-president in charge of sales and marketing.

Bella Vida Vineyard, 2014 Pinot Noir harvest

Leigh Bartholomew, Vineyard Manager. Winderlea Vineyard WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Wint e r 2 0 1 4 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

FEATURE

dundee

Ponzi Wine Bar - Downtown Dundee

Stoller Family Estate is Wine Press Northwest’s 2014 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year and, thus, well worth visiting. Gorgeous estate vineyards result in Melissa Burr’s gorgeous wines. Domaine Drouhin Oregon, owned by the famed Drouhin family of Burgundy, put Oregon wine on the global map when it bought property and opened the winery in the 1980s. The wines are crafted under the watchful eye of fourth-generation vigneron Véronique Boss-Drouhin. High in the hills, Archery Summit has been crafting some of Oregon’s finest Pinot Noirs since 1993, when it was established by the late Gary Andrus. Chris Mazepink is the winemaker, and he uses grapes from six estate vineyards. If you go, it’s worth scoring a tour of the caves. Ken and Grace Evenstad launched Domaine Serene in 1990 and opened its newly built winery 11 years later in the Dundee Hills. The classically crafted wines are made by Erik Kramer, including 2010 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir, which Wine Spectator ranked as the world’s No. 3 wine in 2013. The Gladhart family has been farming in the Dundee Hills since 1961 and launched Winter’s Hill Estate in 1998. Today, Delphine Gladhart is

Dundee Bistro Restaurant, Downtown Dundee

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

WINEPRESSNW.COM

dundee

FEATURE

crafting many examples of delicious and award-winning Pinot Noirs. John and Nancy McClintock began planting grapes in 1997 and opened Vista Hills Vineyard & Winery a decade later. They feature Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, all from estate grapes.

RESTAURANTS Thanks to its rich history and its place as the center of the Oregon wine industry, Dundee has perhaps the most developed food scene in the northern Willamette Valley (though McMinnville also makes a good argument for that crown). You will find no shortage of great cuisine that focuses on fresh regional ingredients. Here are a few favorites from which to choose. The Dundee Bistro, owned by the Ponzi family, has been a mainstay along Highway 99 for more than 15 years with a history of talented chefs. Exquisite food, a superior wine list and classic wine country atmosphere help make the Dundee Bistro a top choice. It is open daily for lunch and dinner. A new favorite in the Dundee Hills is Red Hills Market, which is just off Highway 99W on Southwest Seventh Street. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need a hearty breakfast for a successful day of wine tasting, and Red Hills Market is the place to start, thanks to great food and coffee, and its charcuterie

Red Hills Market-Downtown Dundee

Dundee Bistro, Chef Christopher Flanagan

Red Hills Market-Downtown Dundee WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Wint e r 2 0 1 4 â&#x20AC;˘ Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

FEATURE

dundee

makes for superb lunch options, too. It’s open daily until 8 p.m. Red Hills’ catering services also have become a favorite with wineries around the region. Tina’s has offered a combination of continental and Northwest cuisine since 1991. If you’re looking for a classy, intimate dining experience, head to Tina’s. Open for lunch and dinner. A newer eatery in Dundee is Babica Hen Café (which also has a location in Lake Oswego). It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and serves delicious cuisine, with many of the ingredients coming from its 1.5 acre adjacent garden. If you want a real sense of Dundee’s underbelly — or just prefer a cold beer and a juicy burger — head to Lumpy’s, a tavern along Highway 99W. The food is generally delicious, and there’s usually a game on the TV.

LODGING

Wine Country Farm B&B- Dundee Hills

All of Yamhill County is blessed with perhaps the largest concentration of B&Bs of any semirural area in the Pacific Northwest. Many of these inns are in the Dundee area, which means you have many choices on where to stay. Here are just a few to consider: The Black Walnut Inn and Vineyard is one of the most luxurious inns in our corner of the country. The former plum orchard provides stunning views of the valley below. Today, it is surrounded by a sustainably farmed vineyard, and the breakfast is stunning. Rates start at $200/night. Stoller Family Estate is not just an awardwinning winery. It also offers guesthouses for folks who want to stay in the vineyard and bring family/friends. While not a B&B, the guesthouses do have full kitchens and other facilities. Rates start at $400/night. Up in the hills not far from Vista Hills is Wine Country Farm B&B, a combination inn, vineyard and tasting room. Rates start at $150/ night. Just a couple of minutes from Highway 99W is the Dundee Manor, a luxurious home built in 1908 that now is a B&B. There are four rooms, with rates starting at $200/night.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Argyle Winery, Tasting Room, Downtown Dundee 22

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

While the main focus in Dundee is — and should be — wine, here are a couple of other activities you will undoubtedly enjoy. Red Ridge Farms and Olive Mill is a short drive from downtown Dundee near Domaine WINEPRESSNW.COM

dundee

FEATURE

Drouhin Oregon and is home to Oregon’s largest olive oil operation — with more than 13,000 olive trees on the property. While there, you may also visit Durant Vineyards. Lodging on the property also is available. Complete your fabulous Oregon wine country experience with cooking classes at the Wine Country Cooking Studio in downtown Dundee, just above Red Hills Market. e ANDY PERDUE is the editor and publisher of Great Northwest

Wine and wine columnist for The Seattle Times. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com

Red Hills Market-Downtown Dundee

Domaine Serene, Evenstad Estate Vineyard WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Wint e r 2 0 1 4 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

FE A T U R E

champoux

A toast to Paul and Judy Champoux BY JADE HELM

sk Washington State winemakers whose Cabernet Sauvignon grapes they would like to purchase. Champoux Vineyards would be at the top of the list. The vineyard’s reputation is so great, winemakers want to market their wines with the Champoux name on the label. Paul Champoux is synonymous with excellent Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon. He produced the fruit that made perfect 100 - point Cabernet Sauvignons - in four vintages. He accomplished this by nurturing vines and relationships. After 35 years of grape growing, Paul Champoux is retiring. He is approaching it the same way he approaches everything - with high spirits, careful planning, and his wife Judy Champoux by his side. Ask Champoux about his legacy in the wine industry and this farmer with a magnificent green thumb struggles to answer and claim the accolades he so richly deserves. Champoux is not shy, however, talking about his work. “There is no doubt in my mind that the grower is part of the terroir.” He also believes a sense of humor is crucial. When asked when he knew they had “made it” he answered, “About a week and a half ago.” Champoux grew up in a farming family growing hops in Yakima Valley. In 1979 he took a job in Paterson installing vineyards at Ste. Michelle Vineyards, known now as Columbia Crest. Champoux explains, “I didn’t know much about grape varietals, but I knew how to install trellis and plants.” Champoux had found a new career.

Paul in his LadyHawk Vineyard (2006)

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

In 1992 Paul and Judy Champoux struck out on their own. After four years of leasing, they purchased what is now Champoux Vineyards from Mercer Ranches. This vineyard was originally planted on the advice of wine industry icon Walter Clore. Block 1, the first grapevines planted in Horse Heaven Hills, grow here. The Champouxs formed a partnership with friends and winemakers, Alex Golitzin of Quilceda Creek, Bill Powers of Powers Winery, Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery and Rick Small of Woodward Canyon Winery. Small, who had been using grapes from that site since 1985, jumped at the chance to buy in. “The Cabernet Sauvignon [from that vineyard] is special and exceptional and the partners were so well suited.” Under Champoux’s careful attention, the vineyard thrived. Wine Advocate awarded a perfect 100 - point score to Quilceda Creek’s 2002, 2003, 2005 and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - made with 90% Champoux Vineyards fruit. “It was a humbling experience,” says Champoux. “The reputation spread without marketing, it just came out in the wine. We took a good vineyard and made it a worldclass vineyard.” Still it is the relationships that Champoux cherishes the most. Greg Powers shares, “Paul is like family to me.” Bill Powers, Greg’s father and one of Champoux Vineyards’ original partners, recently passed away. “Paul and Judy were some of the last people to see my Dad in the hospital.” Paul Champoux’s most important relationship and partner has been Judy Champoux. Judy manages the financial aspects of their business. Small speaks fondly of their relationship. “When I think about Champoux Vineyards, I think about Paul and Judy both. I was always impressed that they worked so well as a collaborative team. This was especially important after the mosquito bite.” The “mosquito bite” turned into one of the biggest struggles for the Champouxs. Bitten on July 4, 2009, Paul was completely paralyzed by July 17th. It took an airlift to Oregon Health and Science University in Portland and 13 days to get the diagnosis - West Nile Virus. Champoux was later transferred to Kadlec Regional Medical Center in Richland,

Paul and Judy in the Block 1 vineyard established in 1972 (2007)

Wash. Carmada recalls. “It was so strange and it came out of nowhere.” Champoux was not released from the hospital until September. Judy set up a hospital bed at home. “It was our 27th anniversary,” Judy recalls, “and it was the most special one yet because for a while I didn’t know if we would celebrate another year together.” It was also harvest time and the winemakers were still in need of Champoux’s expert input. He was not able to lift a telephone receiver, but Judy was by his side holding it to his ear. Some winemakers even brought in grape clusters for Champoux to sample before making the decision to pick. He never missed a harvest. Continuing to work was part of his recovery. Today, Champoux still uses a wheelchair, though his mobility and strength are returning. He manages his vineyards travelling between rows on a four wheeler. He has found it makes him a better farmer because he is closer to the vines than when he travelled in his pickup truck. Part of the decision to retire is a need to devote more time to therapy. He wants to dance with Judy again - country swing. “Wouldn’t that be something. I would have bragging rights if I did that and it might involve some Dom Perignon.” The other reason to retire is to just enjoy life. “We want to travel, see the historical sites, visit friends and family around the country. I’ve never been much past the Rockies. We are ready to kick back a couple of gears and do things on our own schedule.” W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

champoux FE A T U R E The Champouxs have managed retirement with the same care they managed the vineyard and business. They and the partners have been planning the transition for over a year. Northwest Winegrowers LLC will take over vineyard management. Dan Nickolaus, operations manager, has worked the 2014 harvest alongside Champoux. Small remarks, “Even though it was a compressed harvest, things went really well and I am pleased with the fruit so far.” Small sees this as a good sign. Ownership of Champoux Vineyards will also remain with the original partners. Quilceda Creek will now be the majority shareholder of Champoux Vineyards LLC. Carmada comments, “Paul is one of the pillars of the grape growers of Eastern Washington. He provided a solid vista for us to stand on and look out to see where we will go in the future.” “I’ve enjoyed every moment in the wine industry. It is not work, it is just what we do,” explains Champoux. He admits it will be a little hard to leave behind. “Sitting here on the porch looking out over the vineyard on what we did - we did good. We did what we set out to do.” As he prepares for the next leg of the journey with Judy, he does not worry about the vineyard or the future, adding with a grin, “There will be wine involved.” is the primary author of Tasting Pour, a wine blog. Based in Oregon, she is a Diplomate of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust of London and a Certified Specialist of Wine, Society of Wine Educators. Visit tastingpour.com.

JADE HELM

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

PLATINUM 2014: Best of the Best in the Pacific Northwest BIG REDS TOP 15TH ANNUAL COMPETITION BY A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOGRAPHY BY B O B B R A W D Y

hite wines won the day a year ago at the Platinum Judging, but this year it was back to big reds. And both were from Woodinville wineries. At the conclusion of the 15th annual Platinum Judging, a Petite Sirah and a Malbec shared the title of “best of the best in the Great Northwest.” Alexandria Nicole Cellars, which has tasting rooms in Woodinville and Prosser, Wash., produced the stunning Petite Sirah using 28

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

estate grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills. Also at the top was a Malbec from William Church Winery in Woodinville, using grapes from Gamache Vineyards near the Columbia Valley town of Basin City. Wine Press Northwest’s annual competition of gold medal winners from throughout the Pacific Northwest was full of fun and fascinating wines. Here are a few highlights from this year’s competition:

• Washington winemaker Robert Smasne earned nine Platinums across three brands: Smasne Cellars, Upland Estates Winery and Northwest Cellars. • Maryhill Winery in Goldendale, Wash., won seven Platinums. • Washington winemaker Victor Palencia won five Platinums: four for Jones of Washington and one for his own Vino La Monarcha. • Pacific Rim Winemakers in West Richland, Wash. won five Platinums. • Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery near Oliver, British Columbia — the “King of the Platinums” — added four more to its collection this year. • Other wineries winning four Platinums include: Brian Carter Cellars in Woodinville, Wash.; Wild Goose Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, British Columbia; and Zerba Cellars in Milton-Freewater, Ore. • Wineries winning at three Platinums are: Westport Winery in Aberdeen, Wash.; Martin-Scott Winery in East Wenatchee, Wash.; W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

K IN G O F T HE PL AT IN UM With four Platinums this year alone, Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery south of Oliver, British Columbia, easily retains the title of “King of the Platinum.” Walter and Gordon Gehringer have won at least one Platinum medal every year except 2001 and 2006. Here are the wineries that have won at least 10 Platinums during the competition’s first 15 years: ❧ Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery: 47 ❧ Maryhill Winery: 25 ❧ Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate: 25 ❧ Chateau Ste. Michelle: 22 ❧ Wild Goose Vineyards: 19 ❧ Barnard Griffin: 19 ❧ La Frenz Winery: 16 ❧ Zerba Cellars: 15 ❧ Kiona Vineyards & Winery: 13 ❧ Thurston Wolfe: 13 ❧ Dusted Valley Vintners: 12 ❧ Domaine Ste. Michelle 11 ❧ Watermill Winery: 11

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Kraze Legz Vineyard and Winery in Kaleden, British Columbia; and Dusted Valley Vintners in Walla Walla, Wash. • Of the 124 wines that earned Double Platinum or Platinum, 19 retail for $15 or less. • Our judges this year were: Dan Berger, independent wine journalist from Santa Rosa, Calif., who runs the Riverside International and Long Beach Grand Cru competitions and judges around the world; Parks Redwine of Atlanta, Ga., who owns and operates the Northwest Wine Summit competition; Heather Unwin, executive director of the Red Mountain AVA Alliance; Ken Robertson, wine columnist for Wine Press Northwest; Coke Roth, international wine judge and Wine Press Northwest columnist; Kristine Bono, winery evangelist at Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Woodinville; Yashar Shayan, owner of ImpulseWine.com, an online wine retailer in Seattle; Paul Sinclair of Kennewick, Wash., a member of the Great Northwest Wine tasting panel; and Gregg McConnell, editor and publisher of Wine Press Northwest. The judging was conducted by Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue, owners of Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. Here are the results:

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Double Platinum and Best of the Best Alexandria Nicole Cellars $45 2011 Mr. Big Petite Sirah, Horse Heaven Hills Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle is a big, broad-shouldered guy, and he has crafted a wine in his own image using estate grapes. This is a gorgeous wine with rich aromas of blueberry and blackberry, followed by bold, jammy flavors of blackberry, black pepper and boysenberry. Hints of spice and oak add depth and complexity, and a surprisingly gracious midpalate helps make this a complete wine. (188 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest Red Rhône judging (Outstanding) William Church Winery $36 2011 Gamache Vineyards Malbec, Columbia Valley Before departing on a two-year global 30

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

winemaking odyssey, Marcus Rafanelli crafted this luscious red wine from the challenging 2011 vintage. It is a subtle wine with aromas of Bing cherry and spices, followed by suave flavors of dark fruit and black pepper backed by elegant tannins. As great as this wine is now, another two years of patience will likely reap greater rewards. (225 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold)

Double Platinum Kraze Legz Vineyard and Winery $20 2013 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley This young winery north of Okanagan Falls, British Columbia, is crafting simply superb wines using estate vines overlooking Skaha Lake. This stunning Chardonnay opens with aromas of grapefruit, pineapple and lemon-lime, followed by rich, bright flavors of apple, Key lime and quince paste. A stunning white. (160 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: BC Wine Awards (gold)

Forbidden Fruit Winery $27 2013 Caught Apricot, Similkameen Valley Based in the Similkameen Valley just west of the Okanagan Valley, Forbidden Fruit has been crafting marvelous fruit wines for many years. This fortified dessert wine uses three varieties of organically farmed apricots, and it is absolutely gorgeous. Perfect aromas and flavors are beautifully balanced. This is a dangerously delicious wine that could well be considered an “inhibition remover.” (175 cases; 17% alc. Medal: Canadian National Wine Awards (gold) Kiona Vineyards & Winery $25 2012 Chenin Blanc Ice Wine, Red Mountain The Williams family pioneered grape growing and winemaking on Red Mountain and has been making this luscious dessert wine for years. While this ice wine isn’t quite as rich and voluptuous as those we see from British Columbia, it does retain beautifully W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

natural acidity and bright varietal flavors. This offers hints of honey, pear, orange blossom, peach and toasted pine nuts, all backed by marvelously refreshing acidity. (1,439 cases; 8.2% alc.) Medals: Sunset International Wine Competition (gold/best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Wild Goose Vineyards and Winery $19 2013 Mystic River Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley Mystic River is Wild Goose’s estate vineyard near Oliver, British Columbia, and through the years it has produced seven Platinum wines, including three Pinot Blancs. If there were such a ranking, Mystic River would certainly qualify as a grand cru vineyard in the Pacific Northwest. This example is loaded with aromas and flavors of lime, pear, apricot, kiwi and white peach. It’s easy to imagine this with shellfish, chicken or pork. Medal: All Canadian Wine Championships (double gold)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Kyra Wines $20 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Kyra Baerlocher is best known for making some of the finest Chenin Blanc in the Pacific Northwest, but she also crafts delicious reds, including this superb and affordable Cab. It opens with opulent aromas of blackberry syrup, coffee and alder smoke, followed by rich flavors of plum, blackberry and chocolate. It’s all backed with beautifully integrated tannins. (280 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Dusted Valley Vintners $53 2011 V.R. Special Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley The Dusted Valley boys continue to craft some of the finest red wines anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. While their specialty has been rich Rhône varieties, they’ve shown a knack for Bordeaux reds, too. This stylish wine shows true varietal character with black currant, a dusting of

cocoa powder, a hint of dried herbs and a core of ripe dark fruit, all backed with firm tannins. (384 cases; 14.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Best Buy! Jones of Washington $13 2013 Pinot Gris, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Young Victor Palencia has a real touch with the grapes from the relatively cool Ancient Lakes region of Washington, and this Pinot Gris is simply stunning. It opens with gorgeous aromas of pear, lime and cotton candy, followed by flavors of tropical fruit, honeydew melon and citrus. Enjoy this with shellfish. (1,901 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (double gold/ best of class), Wine Press Northwest Pinot Gris judging (Outstanding), Seattle Wine Awards (gold)

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Zerba Cellars $38 2010 Grenache, Columbia Valley Winemaker Doug Nierman has proved through the years that he can employ a deft touch with many red varieties. This bright red wine is a spectacular achievement, thanks to aromas and flavors of blueberry pie, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper and just a hint of oak. Everything is in place, and the refreshing acidity gives this liveliness. (94 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest Red Rhône judging (Outstanding) Two Mountain Winery $74 2009 Copeland Vineyard Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon, Rattlesnake Hills This astonishing Cab from a small producer near the Yakima Valley town of Zillah, Wash., opens with notes of coffee, black cherry, mocha and clove, followed by flavors of blueberry, blackberry and vanilla. The tannins are firm without being too heavyhanded, and the finish is long and memora32

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

ble. Enjoy this small-production wine with prime rib. (25 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Clearwater Canyon Cellars $25 2012 Merlot, Idaho It’s been a heck of a year for winemakers Coco and Karl Umiker, who run this winery in Lewiston, Idaho. They are winning big awards and accolades for nearly every wine they make. This luscious Merlot — the best of this competition — comes from grapes in the proposed Lewis-Clark Valley AVA. It offers aromas and flavors of blackberry, black currant, spicy herbs and dark chocolate on the finish. The tannins are firm without overwhelming the fruit. (125 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: Idaho Wine Competition (gold) SpierHead Winery $20 2013 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is a fantastic location for white wines, particularly Pinot Gris, which pairs so beautifully with

Pacific Northwest cuisine. This winery near Kelowna is relatively young and is crafting some of the best we’ve tasted. This offers aromas and flavors of white flowers, sweet lime, apricot and minerality in the finish. (500 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: BC Wine Awards (platinum) Best Buy! Jones of Washington $12 2013 Riesling, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley This is the second Platinum in three years for this wine from Jones of Washington, which has tasting rooms in Quincy and Wenatchee, Wash. Winemaker Victor Palencia performs a delicious high-wire act by perfectly balancing fruit, acidity and sweetness on this Riesling. Broad fruit flavors and bright floral notes are backed with 2.17% residual sugar that barely register, thanks to crisp acidity. Medals: North Central Washington Wine Awards (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Whidbey Island Winery $25 2012 Dolcetto, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Greg Osenbach brings in grapes from the warm Yakima Valley for his winery northwest of Seattle, including this luscious Italian variety. This opens with beautiful purple color followed by aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry and dried blueberry. It’s perfectly round with sweet tannins and beautifully balanced. (100 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Daven Lore Winery $35 2011 Grenache, Yakima Valley Canadian ex-pat Gord Taylor is crafting superb wine in the heart of the Yakima Valley above the town of Prosser, and this Grenache is about as good as it gets in Washington. It opens with aromas of blueberry, pomegranate, Baker’s chocolate and fresh tarragon. On the palate, incredible flavors of ripe raspberry and cranberry intermingle with a hint of sage in the finish. (75 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Eleven Winery $35 2011 Sugarloaf Vineyard Mourvèdre, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Matt Albee has this big red Rhône variety dialed in, thanks in large part to superb grapes from grower Joe Hattrup in the Rattlesnake Hills district of the Columbia Valley. Aromas and flavors of black fruit and a hint of black pepper highlight this wine, which also exhibits a faint rustic component. Mild tannins give this a beautiful finish. (171 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 2013 Auxerrois, Okanagan Valley This rare white grape variety has its Old World roots in Alsace, Germany and Luxembourg, and it’s long been a mainstay in British Columbia. Perhaps nobody makes it better than Walter Gehringer, who has now won

five Platinums through the years for this wine. It reveals aromas and flavors of white flowers, lychee, starfruit, grapefruit and lemon. It’s all backed with bright acidity and pleasing minerality throughout. (1,000 cases; 13% alc.) Medals: Northwest Wine Summit (gold), Indy International Wine Competition (gold) Wilridge Winery $30 2012 Estate Mélange Noir, Naches Heights Paul Beveridge launched his winery in 1987, making it the oldest winery in Seattle. In 2007, he planted estate grapes in what now is the Naches Heights AVA near the city of Yakima and has produced this superb Cab Franc-based red blend from those vines. It is a graceful wine with intelligent use of oak along with aromas and flavors of dried herbs, dark cherry and hints of black olive. (250 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold)

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Kitzke Cellars $30 2009 Monte Caramelle, Columbia Valley This up-and-coming winery near Richland, Wash., is making a name for itself with several grape varieties as well as this Italian-style blend that leads with Sangiovese. On the nose and palate, it exhibits notes of strawberry, red currant, elderberry and red licorice. It’s all backed by firm tannins and a luscious jamminess on the midpalate. (122 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Five Star Cellars $36 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Matt Huse was in the first class at Walla Walla Community College’s winemaking program back in 2001 and since graduating two years later has been crafting some of the valley’s finest reds. This rich Cab is loaded with aromas and flavors of cedar, violet, raspberry and caramel with even a hint of pencil shavings. This is a classic. (1,175 cases; 14.3% 34

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

alc.) Medals: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Forbidden Fruit Winery $26 2011 Earth Series Merlot, Okanagan/ Similkameen valleys This winery in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley is best known for its dessert and fruit wines, but it shows its mettle with this delicious Merlot using grapes from both the Similkameen and Okanagan valleys. Aromas and flavors of red currant, dark chocolate, exotic spice and cedar are backed with firm tannins. (25 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: All Canadian Wine Championships (gold) Brian Carter Cellars $22 2011 Opulento, Yakima Valley Brian Carter has been crafting wine in Washington since just after Mount St. Helens blew in 1980. Since launching his eponymous winery more than a decade ago, he has been all about the blend, and this fortified dessert

wine uses classic Portuguese varieties. It is gorgeously balanced with aromas and flavors of raspberry chocolate, dried cranberry and golden raisin. The alcohol barely shows, giving this a smooth, succulent viscosity through the memorable finish. (610 cases; 19% alc.) Medals: Seattle Wine & Food Experience (best of show), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Maryhill Winery $17 2011 Barbera, Columbia Valley Winemaker Richard Batchelor crafted a gorgeous wine from a challenging vintage to produce this rich, luscious Italian variety. It offers aromas and flavors of leather, mint, spice and a midpalate that can best be described as a blueberry milkshake. One judge said it was about as good as anything from Piedmont. (305 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: Northwest Wine Summit (gold), Indy International Wine Competition (gold)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Martin-Scott Winery $28 2012 Montepulciano, Columbia Valley Though little known in the New World, Montepulciano is one of the most widely planted grapes in Italy — and it has nothing in common (other than name) with Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, a wine made in the Tuscan hilltown of Montepulciano. This example from an East Wenatchee, Wash., winery is superb, with aromas and flavors of vanilla, cranberry, pomegranate, red currant and subtle oak. (43 cases; 14.3% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (gold) William Church Winery $34 2011 2 Spires, Columbia Valley This Syrah-based blend from a top Woodinville boutique producer is nothing short of stunning, thanks to flawless aromas and flavors. It offers aromas and flavors of blackberry, blueberry and purple plum, all backed with a whisper of alder smoke and moderate tannins. (225 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: SeatW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

tle Wine Awards (double gold) Gehringer Brothers Estate $16 Winery 2013 Gewurztraminer-Schönburger, Okanagan Valley Schönburger is a fairly new variety, a cross of Pinot Noir, Chasselas and Muscat Hamburg that was made available in 1979. Since 2006, this is the fifth Platinum awarded to Gehringer Brothers for this blend. It offers aromas and flavors of lychee, grapefruit and Christmas spices, all backed with solid acidity and just a kiss of sweetness. (500 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medals: Indy International Wine Competition (gold), All Canadian Wine Championships (gold) Boomtown by Dusted Valley $19 2012 Merlot, Washington The Dusted Valley boys have done well with this value-minded second label that highlights major Washington varieties. This example of Merlot opens with aromas of

spicy cherry and dark chocolate, followed by flavors of blackberry, Bing cherry and oak that doesn’t get in your face. Mild tannins give this youthful approachability. Open with impunity any night of the week. (3,700 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Brian Carter Cellars $34 2009 Tuttorosso, Yakima Valley Winemaker Brian Carter crafted this red wine in the style of a Super Tuscan, leading with Sangiovese but also including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It is delicious, thanks to aromas and flavors of plum, sage and dark chocolate. Enjoy this with grilled meats, stuffed mushrooms or a hearty lasagna. (991 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine & Food Experience (gold) Robert Ramsay Cellars $20 2011 Masons Red, Columbia Valley This Syrah-based blend from a top bouW i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

tique producer in Walla Walla is a rich and voluptuous wine. Its hallmark is the balance of fruit, oak, acidity and tannin, as all are well managed and provide lusciousness alongside subtle complexity. Classic notes of blueberry intermingle with touches of coffee, chocolate and smoke. (363 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Maryhill Winery $17 2011 Syrah, Columbia Valley This delicious and affordable red from winemaker Richard Batchelor reveals just how good Washington Syrah can be made and be priced for everyday enjoyment. This is a flawless wine with charming aromas and flavors of smoked meat, purple plum and blackberry jam. Solid acidity and mild tannins give this balance and youthful approachability. (1,396 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: San Francisco International Wine Competition (double gold), Indy International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) 36

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

Platinum Best Buy! Pacific Rim Winemakers $14 2013 Twin Vineyards Gewürztraminer, Yakima Valley Sadly, we don’t see as many Gewürztraminers from Washington as we used to. But happily, we still can find examples such as this from Pacific Rim near Red Mountain. This is a classic Gewürz, thanks to aromas and flavors of lychee, rose water, yellow grapefruit and clove. This is a perfect wine to pair with brunch dishes such as quiche or egg salad sandwich, as well as turkey or chicken. (6,000 cases; 12.9% alc.) Medal: Riverside International Wine Competition (gold/best in class) Watermill Winery $32 2010 Estate Mourvèdre, Walla Walla Valley Based on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, Watermill Winery has earned an

impressive 11 Platinums through the years, and this is its first for Mourvèdre, the bold Southern Rhône red. This is crafted in the classic style, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, tart cherry and a rich, full midpalate that gives way to a smooth finish. (42 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Upland Estates Winery $32 2010 Cabernet Franc, Snipes Mountain Grape grower Todd Newhouse and winemaker Robert Smasne combine to craft a Cab Franc from one of the Northwest’s smallest growing areas. This distinctive red wine shows a light hand with oak, along with notes of sweet herbs, Rainier cherry and a hint of vanilla. Enjoy this subtle red wine with roasted or grilled meats. (40 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Best Buy! Pacific Rim Winemakers $11 2013 Gewürztraminer, Yakima Valley The gang at Pacific Rim shows a deft touch with this classic German variety, winning Platinums for two different bottlings. This is a gorgeous example with aromas and flavors of yellow peach, pear, rose water and potpourri. Its mouth-filling flavors lead us to pair this with lighter Asian fare such as Phad Thai or mild pho. (3,500 cases; 12% alc.) Medal: Riverside International Wine Competition (gold/best of class) Martin-Scott Winery $28 2010 Malbec, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Mike Scott has developed into one of the top winemakers in North Central Washington, and this Malbec is further evidence. Aromas and flavors of blackberry and blueberry intermingle with notes of saddle leather and spice. This is beautifully structured from front to back and

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

is well worth seeking out. (75 cases; 15.1% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold) Northwest Cellars $28 2011 Verhey Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley Owner Bob Delf and winemaker Robert Smasne combine to craft a delicious example of Washington Malbec. The grapes come from a distinctive vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills district of the Yakima Valley, and the result is a wine with aromas and flavors of herbal tea, black pepper, blackberry and faint traces of chocolate molasses. The complexity is overwhelming in this truly fabulous wine. (122 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Best Buy! Pacific Rim Winemakers NV Framboise, Washington

For the third time in the past five years, this luscious fortified raspberry wine has earned the distinction of a Platinum medal. Aromas of Tootsie Roll intermingle with classic raspberry. It’s absolutely true to variety and is quite a treat, thanks to impressive acidity and great length. (2,756 cases; 16.5% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold) Recline Ridge Vineyards and Winery $21 2011 Hawk’s Haven, British Columbia This delicious and unusual red wine is a blend that is equal parts Blauer Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, both fairly obscure grapes from Central Europe — especially Austria. This is a rather pretty wine with intensity of red and purple fruit flavors backed by mild, approachable tannins. Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (gold)

$14

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Pent $22 2013 Viognier, Okanagan Valley Viognier can be a difficult variety to grow and make wine from because of its natural tendency for low acidity. But in the Okanagan Valley north of the border, bright acidity generally isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a problem. Such is the case here. Classic aromas of citrus and tropical fruit are backed with honest acidity and classy, subtle aromas and flavors. This is a beautiful wine. (250 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: All Canadian Wine Championships (double gold) Best Buy! Seven Falls Cellars $15 2011 Merlot, Wahluke Slope Seven Falls is a label for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates that showcases the plush, approachable fruit of the arid and remote Wahluke Slope. Winemaker Doug Gore has loved this region since the 1980s and is producing stylish and affordable wines using its grapes. 38

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t â&#x20AC;˘ W i n t e r 2 014

This is a classic Washington Merlot with aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry, chocolate and a hint of tobacco, all backed with gentle, drink-now tannins. (23,000 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold)

This gorgeous Syrah from the south shore of Lake Chelan is beautifully balanced all the way through with nuances of spice, blackberry, and dark chocolate. (114 cases; 15.1% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (double gold)

Cardwell Hill Cellars $24 2012 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This high-end Pinot Noir producer southwest of Salem, Ore., has earned three Platinums in the past six years. This is a long, lingering wine with aromas and flavors of cherry, cranberry and strawberry, all backed by bright, food-friendly acidity. Pair this with everything from salmon to prime rib. (3,206 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold)

Madsen Family Cellars $25 2011 Heart of Darkness Dessert Wine, Horse Heaven Hills This small family winery west of Olympia, Wash., crafted this dessert wine using Petit Verdot from the Horse Heaven Hills and brandy from Clear Creek Distillery in Portland. The result is a luscious fortified wine that is rich in sweetness and flavor, including golden raisin and Tootsie Roll. Perfect for a snowy winter evening. (92 cases; 19.4% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold)

Tunnel Hill Winery $30 2012 Syrah, Lake Chelan Winemaker and documentary filmmaker Guy Evans continues to find success in transforming the family apple business to wine.

Upland Estates Winery $36 2010 Ampeli Ice Muscat of Alexandria, Snipes Mountain Winemaker Robert Smasne used grapes W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

from vines planted in 1917 to craft this stunning dessert wine. Aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, jasmine, orange and tropical fruit intermingle behind bright acidity. Enjoy with cheesecake. (85 cases; 10.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Rio Vista Wines $29 2012 Barbera, Columbia Valley North of the cutoff to Lake Chelan along the Columbia River, winemaker John Little is crafting superb wines. Among them is this Italian variety, which is fun and delicious to drink. Aromas and flavors of vanilla, cherry, coconut and plum are backed with rich acidity and moderate tannins. (150 cases; 14.14% alc.) Medal: Washington State Wine Competition (gold) Maryhill Winery $30 2011 Sugarloaf Vineyard Mourvèdre, Rattlesnake Hills Joe Hattrup is establishing himself as one of the top grape growers in Washington, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

thanks to his Sugarloaf and Elephant Mountain vineyards. This gorgeous and heavily awarded example of a Rhône red opens with notes of pepper and blueberry. On the palate are notes of herbal tea and caramel amid all the ripe fruit, backed with rich acidity and modest tannins. (555 cases; 13.1% alc.) Medals: Riverside International Wine Competition (gold), San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold/best of class), Indy International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) San Juan Vineyards $20 2013 Estate Siegerrebe, Puget Sound This stunning wine by Chris Primus in Friday Harbor, Wash., earned a remarkable five unanimous double gold medals from five sets of judges this year. Aromas of Asian pear, lychee and clove lead to flavors of pear, apple and pineapple. It’s all wrapped in bright acidity. Perfect for shellfish or pasta with a butter sauce. (360 cases; 12% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competi-

tion (double gold), Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (double gold), Riverside International Wine Competition (double gold), Washington State Wine Competition (double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Recline Ridge Vineyards and $19 Winery 2012 Siegerrebe, British Columbia This superb Siegerrebe — a German cross of Gewürztraminer and Madeleine Angevine — from north of the border shows off aromas and flavors of rose water, tropical fruit and grapefruit. It’s exotically aromatic with enticing flavors. Pair this beautiful white with seared scallops, Dungeness crab, Oysters Rockefeller or clam chowder. (300 cases; 12.9% alc.) Medal: Northwest Wine Summit (gold) Westport Winery $27 2011 Jetty Cat, Columbia Valley This richly structured red blend from W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

coastal winemaker Dana Roberts leads with Petite Sirah. It’s a big wine up front with aromas and flavors of blackberry, plum, black tea and cherry pipe tobacco. On the finish, the tannins become smooth and elegant. Enjoy this with a rib roast or a thick hamburger. (170 cases; 13% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (double gold/best of class), Washington State Wine Competition (gold) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $24 2013 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Shepherds Mark, Horse Heaven Hills Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle has been crafting this Rhône-style white for years. It leads with Roussanne and includes Marsanne and Viognier. The creamy mouth feel is loaded with notes of Asian pear, apple and mango. A luscious wine. (613 cases; 13.4% alc.) Medals: Sunset International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) 40

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

Northwest Cellars $19 2013 Sonatina, Columbia Valley This blend of Roussanne and Viognier from Kirkland, Wash., vintner Bob Delf is wildly aromatic on the nose and rich on the palate, with notes of pear, white peach, pineapple and papaya. Pair this with pasta with a white clam sauce. (219 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Maryhill Winery $24 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Winemaker Richard Batchelor’s mainstream Cab is a stunning wine at a nice price. Aromas of toffee, violet, spice and chocolatecovered cherry give way to flavors of black fruit backed with bright acidity and moderate tannins. (1,900 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medals: San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold)

Maryhill Winery $25 2011 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley With more than 100 examples now being made, Malbec is starting to take Washington by storm. This is a delicious example from one of the state’s biggest and best wineries. Aromas and flavors of red and dark berries intermingle with notes of black pepper. It’s all backed by bright acidity. This is still quite young and will only improve over the next few years. (294 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold) Westport Winery $30 NV Message in a Bottle, Washington Westport is just a few miles from the central Washington coast and has been making wine since 2008. It now has a restaurant, multiple gardens, a dog park, a plant nursery and more. It also makes a number of wines — more than 35 of them at last count — and this is a blackberry wine with vanilla flavoring. Our judges were smitten with it, describW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

wing,**OSET** d

es**OSET**

onal**OSET** petitions.**OSET**

h g a a ey**OSET** es**OSET** ils**OSET** le**OSET** mas**OSET**

es,**OSET** d s,**OSET** k per**OSET**

wberry,**OSET** wed**OSET**

ous**OSET** ors**OSET** ing it as blackberry crisp ala mode. (101 cases; 11% alc.) Medal: San Diego International Wine Competition (gold)

of ripe plum, blackberry and dark cherry. (96 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold)

Best Buy! Vino La Monarcha $15 2013 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley This is a second label for Victor Palencia and his young Walla Walla winery. It pays tribute to the monarch butterfly, which migrates from Michoacán, Mexica, where Palencia was born. This bright and delicious white reveals aromas and flavors of green peppercorn, floral notes, minerality, pear and sweet herbs. A perfect oyster wine. (102 cases; 12.3% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest Pinot Gris judging (Outstanding)

Smasne Cellars $44 2010 Lawrence Vineyard Block 3 Syrah, Columbia Valley This is the third time in four years that owner/winemaker Robert Smasne has earned a Platinum for this wine, which uses grapes from Lawrence Vineyard in the Frenchman Hills north of the Saddle Mountains. Rich, luscious aromas of dark fruit and bacon lead to bold, ripe flavors of plum, blackberry and black pepper. (98 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold)

Plumb Cellars $24 2010 JK Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley This downtown Walla Walla producer is proving its abilities to craft superb red wines

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Anam Cara Cellars $24 2012 Gewürztraminer, Chehalem Mountains Gewürztraminer is not an easy grape to make into a dessert wine because it can often lose its distinctive varietal tendencies when it hangs on the vine too long. But this gorgeous

late-harvest Gewürz manages the trick. It is rich and luscious with aromas and flavors of lychee, grapefruit and clove. At 22% residual sugar, it is plenty sweet, yet it manages to be avoid being syrupy. (280 cases; 8.4% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (double gold) Upland Estates Winery $25 2012 Late Harvest Muscat, Snipes Mountain Snipes Mountain is an upthrust in the middle of the Yakima Valley near the town of Sunnyside and is home to one of the oldest vineyards in Washington. Grape grower Todd Newhouse works with winemaker Robert Smasne to craft this delicious dessert wine, which offers aromas and flavors of lychee, fresh pineapple, mango and papaya. (70 cases; 11% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold)

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Wild Goose Vineyards and Winery $22 2012 Red Horizon Meritage, Okanagan Valley Of all the Platinums that Wild Goose has won through the years (19 of them), this is its first red. This Merlot-heavy blend is beautiful and graceful with aromas and flavors of blackberry pie, plum sauce and Bing cherry. A luscious mouth feel is backed by silky tannins that give way to a long and memorable finish. (500 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: BC Wine Awards (gold) Upland Estates Winery $28 2011 Julian, Snipes Mountain Back in the 1930s and ‘40s, a man named Julian Steenbergen worked at Upland Winery in Sunnyside as a chemist and cellarmaster. Today, Julian is still alive and living in Eastern Washington. Upland owner Todd Newhouse named this delicious Rhône-style red blend in his honor. It is a classy wine with rich red fruit and sweet herbal notes, all backed by 42

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

pretty tannins. (120 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest Red Rhône judging (Outstanding) Rio Vista Wines $27 2013 Antoine Creek Vineyards Viognier, Columbia Valley Rio Vista is along the Columbia River north of Lake Chelan on Highway 97, and owner/winemaker John Little is crafting gorgeous wines. This stunning Viognier offers aromas and flavors of pear, orange and clove, all backed with impressive acidity and a lengthy finish. Enjoy with baked or grilled chicken. (100 cases; 12.7% alc.) Medals: North Central Washington Wine Awards (best of show), Washington State Wine Competition (gold) Season Cellars $23 2013 Viognier, Southern Oregon Scott Henry IV knows a thing or two about grape growing and winemaking in Southern Oregon, having come from the

Henry Estates family that helped pioneer the region and the famed trellising system. This is his own project, and he has crafted a gorgeous example of Viognier. It unveils aromas and flavors of honeysuckle nectar, white flowers, citrus and sweet spices. (182 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medal: World of Wine Competition (gold) Kraze Legz Vineyard and Winery $20 2013 Mystique, Okanagan Valley This blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay from north of the border opens with aromas of orange oil, ginger and lychee, followed by scrumptious flavors of lime, orange and ripe pear. It’s all backed by solid acidity and a crisp finish. (200 cases; 12.9% alc.) Medal: BC Wine Awards (gold)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Best Buy! Girly Girl Wines $14 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This label for Silver Lake Winery in Woodinville, Wash., produces some delicious wines at bargain prices. This Cab provides aromas and flavors of cranberry, red currant, red plum and dark chocolate, all backed by notes of cedar and sweet tannins. (349 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: San Francisco International Wine Competition Daven Lore Winery $28 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Gordon Taylor is crafting some of the most impressive red wines in the Yakima Valley from his winery above the town of Prosser. This is a big Cab that is especially remarkable because of the challenging 2011 vintage. It reveals aromas and flavors of cedar, spice, sweet herbs and dark, elegant

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

flavors. (114 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Upland Estates Winery $34 2010 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Snipes Mountain Using grapes planted by Al Newhouse in 1973, winemaker Robert Smasne has crafted a delectable Cab that shows off aromas and flavors of black currant, blackberry, black tea and black olive. It’s a rich yet smooth wine with supple tannins and a delicious finish. (120 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Kennedy Shah $45 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Rattlesnake Hills This label, part of the Woodhouse Wine Estates in Woodinville, Wash., relies on grapes from the Rattlesnake Hills district of the Yakima Valley. This Cab Franc reveals plenty of acidity and a light hand with the oak — both of which work to feature rich,

enchanting fruit, including red cherry, raspberry and sweet herbs. (210 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers $15 Estate Winery 2013 Dry Rock Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley While this winery just south of Oliver, British Columbia, normally focuses on Germanic varieties, winemaker Walter Gehringer also shows a deft touch with Chardonnay using grapes from his family’s estate vineyard. This unveils aromas and flavors of white peach, minerality, gooseberry, fresh lemon and just the mildest hint of oak. (800 cases; 13.1% alc.) Medals: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold), Indy International Wine Competition (gold)

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Maryhill Winery $17 2011 Malbec, Columbia Valley Winemaker Richard Batchelor is proving that Argentina isn’t the only player in delicious, affordable Malbecs. This example shows a lot of character, starting with aromas of violet, black pepper and dried cranberry, followed by gentle flavors of plum, raspberry and black currant. It’s all backed with approachable tannins. (506 cases; 13.6% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold)

Wild Goose Vineyards $18 and Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley Through the years, Wild Goose has now earned five Platinums for Pinot Gris, so it’s obvious that winemaker Hagen Kruger has the midas touch with the Alsatian variety. This is a crowd-pleasing wine with aromas and flavors of pear, quince paste and a bit of sweetness to bevel the edges. (3,000 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: BC Wine Awards (gold)

Carlton Cellars $45 2011 Roads End Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Owner/winemaker Dave Grooters brought in his Roads End Pinot Noir grapes from his estate vineyard to craft a classic Yamhill-Carlton wine. It unveils aromas and flavors of fruit leather, cinnamon, a touch of caramel and elegant acidity. (288 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medals: Wine Press Northwest Pinot Noir judging (Outstanding), Oregon Wine Awards (gold)

Puffin Brand Wines $20 2013 Pinot Gris, Oregon Ray Walsh of Capitello Wines in Eugene crafts this Pinot Gris for the owners of the Wine Shack wine shop in the Oregon coast town of Cannon Beach. This former King Estate winemaker crafted a gorgeous example, with aromas and flavors of mineral, dusty lemon, lime zest and starfruit. (112 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold), Oregon Wine Awards (double gold)

Anam Cara Cellars $32 2011 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains High in the Chehalem Mountains, Nick and Sheila Nicholas have nurtured their beautiful vineyard and are crafting some of the Oregon’s most distinctive Pinot Noirs. This opens with aromas of earthy undertones and dusty strawberry, followed by flavors of ripe cherry, red raspberry and sweet herbs. (1,700 cases; 12.4% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest Pinot Noir judging (Outstanding)

Rainstorm Winery $17 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon This affordable Pinot Noir is crafted by the folks at Pacific Rim Winemakers in the afternoon shadow of Washington’s Red Mountain. This offers aromas and flavors of golden raspberry, cranberry, strawberry and even apricot. Supple tannins provide all the necessary support to keep the finish going on and on. (16,000 cases; 13% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (double gold/ best of class), Critics Challenge International

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Wine Competition (gold) Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $38 2012 Ferris Wheel Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Elkton Oregon Terry Brandborg championed the new Elkton Oregon American Viticultural Area, and this is the first Platinum from that new Southern Oregon appellation. Aromas of dark strawberry, boysenberry and tarragon give way to harmonious flavors of Marionberry and ripe cranberry. (195 cases; 12.8% alc.) Medal: World of Wine Competition (gold) Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle $10 2013 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley Bob Bertheau, Wendy Stuckey and the rest of the CSM crew make more Riesling than any other winery in the world, and this ranks among the best. Aromas and flavors of Fuji apple, Asian pear and minerality are backed by wonderfully steely acidity. Enjoy with W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

seared scallops or Dungeness crab. (100,000 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Critics Challenge International Wine Competition (gold) Eroica $22 2012 Riesling, Columbia Valley Here’s the wine that changed the American Riesling industry. This is its 14th release, and Eroica only gets better as winemakers Bob Bertheau and Ernst Loosen continue to dial in their vineyard sources. This is juicy throughout, yet it manages to carry through on intriguing minerality and ample bright apple flavors. (31,000 cases; 12% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (gold), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold/best of class), Riverside International Wine Competition (gold), San Diego International Wine Competition (platinum), Denver Wine Competition (double gold/best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold)

Best Buy! Anew $11 2012 Riesling, Columbia Valley This Ste. Michelle Wine Estates brand of Riesling is a luscious off-dry wine that is beautifully packaged. It shows off aromas and flavors of mineral, citrus and a bowl of orchard fruit. The sweetness and acidity are perfectly balanced to a lengthy finish. (30,500 cases; 11.5% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold), Critics Challenge International Wine Competition (gold), Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (gold) Best Buy! Maryhill Winery $10 2013 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Many consider the best use of Washington Sangiovese to be a pink wine, and this bright, delicious example adds to that argument. Aromas and flavors of papaya, white strawberry, red currant and Rainier cherry are W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

FE A T U R E

platinum

HOW THE PLATINUM IS CONDUCTED Wine Press Northwest created the Platinum Judging in 2000 as a way to determine some of the best wines each year in the Pacific Northwest. To accomplish this, we chart more than 35 professionally judged wine competitions worldwide to track the gold medals won by wineries in Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. In 2014, Northwest wineries were awarded more than 1,700 gold medals at professional judgings. The wines are categorized and judged blind during three days by two panels of wine experts, who award wines with Platinum, Double Gold, Gold or no medal. A wine is awarded a medal based on how a majority of the judges voted. In the case when all four judges deem the wine a Platinum, that wine is awarded a unanimous Double Platinum. Based on each judge’s score, we are able to determine which wine or wines end up at the top — the best of the best. The 15th annual Platinum Judging took place Oct. 21-23 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

balanced with bright acidity. (1,042 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Indy International Wine Competition (gold) Dusted Valley Vintners $53 2012 Rachis Syrah, Columbia Valley The rachis is the name for the stems that hold a cluster of grapes together. The boys at this Walla Walla Valley winery named this Syrah for the fact that the stems go in with the grapes during the fermentation process. This adds a rich, smoky, herbal, wild note to a wine with ripe plum, blackberry and caramel. This is a delicious and complex Syrah. (240 cases; 15.4% alc.) Medal: Northwest Wine Summit (gold)

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

Best Buy! $15 Kiona Vineyards & Winery 2012 Cab-Merlot, Washington Second-generation winemaker Scott Williams has been making this luscious and affordable Bordeaux-style blend for several years, and it never fails to show beautifully. This offers aromas and flavors of plum, black cherry, warm spices and a hint of dried herbs. It’s perfect for any night of the week. (5,000 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Eye of the Needle $20 NV Private Eye, Columbia Valley This Syrah-based blend from a Seattle area winery is a beautiful and complex wine. It opens with aromas of blackberry, blueberry, spice, cedar and lavender. On the palate, it reveals flavors of black licorice, ripe dark plum, black pepper and cola, giving way to a lengthy finish. (106 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) TesoAria Vineyard & Winery $25 2012 Bulls Blood, Southern Oregon Based in Portland, this young winery has crafted a beautiful and complex red from unusual grapes, including Kadarka, Kekfrankos, Blauer Portugieser, Barbera and Primitivo. It opens with a delicate yet complex nose of black fruit, white pepper and dried rose petals. On the palate, it has nice weight with elegant flavors of elderberry, blueberry and Marionberry. (500 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Riverside International Wine Competition (gold/best of class) Brian Carter Cellars $34 2010 Corrida, Columbia Valley Winemaker Brian Carter produces this Spanish-style red blend using Tempranillo, Grenache, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a rich, fleshy wine with notes of tobacco, chocolate, rich red fruit and dark chocolate. (784 cases; 14.3% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $18 2013 Gewürztraminer, Elkton Oregon This is the second consecutive year — and third overall — that Terry Brandborg’s Gewürztraminer has earned a Platinum. It is a classic and complex example, thanks to aromas and flavors of clove, lychee, grapefruit

and limeade. It’s all backed up with ample acidity and a nice roundness on the finish. (507 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: World of Wine Competition (gold) Watermill Winery $24 2010 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Andrew Brown has hit Platinum for Merlot in two out of the past three years. This is a delicious example of a Walla Walla Valley Merlot, thanks to aromas and flavors of red and black currant, black olive, espresso and dark chocolate. It has a nice barrel quality from aging in mostly neutral oak. (704 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Stoller Family Estate $45 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Our 2014 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year ends its reign in style, earning a Platinum for its Reserve Pinot Noir from a cool vintage. This is a delicious Old World example with aromas and flavors of tobacco, dried rose petal, saddle leather. It’s all backed by harmonious tannins and acidity that lead to a long, gentle finish. (3,290 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine & Food Experience (gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 2013 Riesling, Okanagan Valley This little winery just north of the U.S.Canadian border has now won a remarkable 14 Platinums for Rieslings. This makes Gehringer not only the “King of the Platinums” but also arguably the king of Riesling. This opens with beautiful minerality and orchard fruit, as well as notes of dried pineapple and steely acidity. Delicious flavors throughout are backed with luscious succulence. (2,400 cases; 12.9% alc.) Medal: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold) Claar Cellars $22 2010 White Bluffs Syrah, Columbia Valley Winemaker Joe Hudon is making superb and affordable wines for this longtime Washington winery with estate vineyards overlooking the Columbia River atop the White Bluffs. This is a rich, juicy Syrah loaded with flavors of huckleberry, blackberry and even a thread of cranberry, along with a hint of white pepper. (106 cases;

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum FE A T U R E 14.5% alc.) Medals: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold), Washington State Wine Competition (best Syah) Martin-Scott Winery $28 2012 Counoise, Columbia Valley Counoise is a rather rare grape, even in its native Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhône Valley. Yet Mike Scott is showing this bright, spicy grape can do just fine standing on its own. This is almost Pinot Noir-like on the nose, with nuances of pie cherry, mild oak and cinnamon. On the palate, it is bright, rich and racy, with red and blue fruit flavors throughout. (26 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (double gold) Zerba Cellars $38 2011 Estate Cockburn Vineyard Mourvèdre, Walla Walla Valley Using estate grapes on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, winemaker Doug Nierman has crafted a rich and beautiful Mourvèdre with aromas and flavors of pomegranate, blueberry and an undercurrent of venison. Dark chocolate intermingles with big, gorgeous tannins. (98 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold) Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $39 2012 Winemaker’s Reserve Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Stephen Reustle has a well-earned reputation as a talented and meticulous Southern Oregon winemaker whose wines show greatness across the spectrum. This beautiful Tempranillo offers aromas and flavors of cherry pipe tobacco, rustic red fruit, tamed tannins and a complex spiciness throughout. (275 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold) Kraze Legz Winery $19 2013 Skaha Vineyard Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley Skaha Lake is a body of water that begins just south of Penticton, British Columbia, and a handful of high-quality vineyards overlook its shores — and that’s where the grapes for this gorgeous white wine came from. It reveals aromas and flavors of Key lime, tropical fruit, Golden Delicious apple and kiwi, all balanced with charming acidity. (230 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: All Canadian Wine Championships (gold) Zerba Cellars $20 2012 Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley Roussanne is a notoriously difficult white grape to grow, but it can produce a wine that is beautiful when everything aligns — as it did with this from winemaker Doug Nierman. This opens with elegant aromas of pear tart and brioche, followed by beautifully round flavors and a notes of ripe orchard fruit. (318 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Kriselle Cellers $25 2011 Di’Tani, Rogue Valley This little winery north of Medford, Ore., crafted this superb wine that leads with Cabernet Franc. It opens with fascinating sweet herbal notes, along with bold flavors of black cherry and black pepper, all backed by assertive tannins. (460 cases; 14.3% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (gold) 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards $26 2011 Reserve Syrah-Mourvèdre, Snake River Valley Greg Koenig crafts the wines for this producer in Eagle, Idaho, a town north of Boise. It is a beautiful and complex red with aromas and flavors of lilac, horehound, dark plum, black olive and lilac. It’s a rich and delicious wine that should work beautifully with duck breast topped with a cherry reduction sauce. (1,100 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest Red Rhône judging (Outstanding) Pleasant Hill Cellars $28 2012 Syrah-Grenache, Columbia Valley Based in tiny Carnation, Wash., in the Cascade Mountains, Pleasant Hill crafts small lots of delicious wine. This Rhône-style red is exotic and fascinating, thanks to aromas and flavors of sweet herbs, bacon fat, ripe plum, white pepper and a potpourri sachet. It is a plush wine with pleasing weight on the palate. (72 cases; 14.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Plumb Cellars $36 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This boutique producer in the Walla Walla Valley used grapes from three vineyards (Ga-

mache, Spring Creek and Golden Ridge) to craft this superb Cabernet Sauvignon. It provides aromas and flavors of huckleberry, blackberry, cola, vanilla and black pepper, all backed with perfectly balanced tannins. (72 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Wild Goose Vineyards and Winery $19 2012 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley This German variety is notorious for having soft acidity, which is why a wine such as this is so exciting. Winemaker Hagen Kruger manages to always retain stellar acidity in his wines, and this is no exception. This offers up aromas and flavors of orange oil, lychee, lime and grapefruit. A kiss of sweetness beautifully balances everything. (1,300 cases; 12% alc.) Medal: All Canadian Wine Championships (gold) Zerba Cellars $30 2010 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley In the past decade, this Walla Walla Valley winery has earned 15 Platinums, including an impressive four this year. This gorgeous Merlot opens with aromas of cocoa powder, black currant and dried cherry, followed by flavors of red currant, pomegranate and Baker’s chocolate. While this is superb now, it will only improve for the next half-decade. (327 cases; 14.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Amelia Wynn Winery $25 2011 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Paul Bianchi is crafting some beautiful wines at his Bainbridge Island winery, and this is his first Platinum. This Merlot opens with aromas of mint, dark chocolate and Rainier cherry, followed by flavors of ripe red fruit, a hint of dried herbs and a whisper of mild oak. (120 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (Double gold/Best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Duck Pond Cellars $20 2012 Pinot Noir, Oregon For more than 20 years, Duck Pond Cellars in Dundee, Ore., has been producing delicious wines at fair prices. This affordable Oregon Pinot Noir reveals aromas and flavors of mint, dark berry, minerally earthiness and W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

FE A T U R E

platinum

notes of cranberry. It’s all backed with moderate tannins and will pair well with prime rib. (12,000 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (double gold) Alloro Vineyard $45 2011 Riservata Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Tom Fitzpatrick, who owns his own small winery and vineyard in Dundee, Ore., crafts the wine for this small producer in nearby Sherwood. This fantastic Pinot Noir offers mouth-filling flavors of cranberry, strawberryrhubarb jam, wisps of smoke and a structure that adds a great dimension to an already complex wine. (300 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (gold) Swiftwater Cellars $18 2013 No. 9 Riesling, Columbia Valley California transplant Linda Trotta recently left this showpiece winery near the Cascade Mountains town of Cle Elum, but not before crafting this delicious Riesling from Olsen Brothers near Prosser. It is a pleasurable wine with aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, bright apple and persistent minerality. It is all backed by beautiful acidity. This is the second straight vintage in which she shined with this variety, as her 2012 effort won best of class and best dry Riesling at the 2014 San Francisco Chronicle. (277 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: International Women’s Wine Competition (gold) Walla Walla Vintners $40 2011 Estate Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley One of the Walla Walla Valley’s oldest wineries continues to show it also is one of the region’s best. This Syrah using grapes from the estate on Mill Creek shows off aromas and flavors of plum, blackberry, black pepper and Baker’s chocolate. Thanks to great acidity and modest tannins, this should age nicely. (96 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (double gold/best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Church & State Wines $35 2011 Coyote Bowl Syrah, Okanagan Valley This winery just a few minutes from downtown Victoria, has won two Platinums in as many years, with this using grapes from the 48

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

estate vineyard in the southern Okanagan Valley near the Black Sage Bench. It exhibits beautiful fruit notes among exotic spices and tempered alcohol. Its acidity is deliciously refreshing. (1,100 cases; 13.4% alc.) Medals: Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold/best of class), San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold) Woodward Canyon Winery $29 2012 Estate Barbera, Walla Walla Valley Owner Rick Small and winemaker Kevin Mott have teamed up to craft this Italian variety using estate grapes from the northern edge of the Walla Walla Valley. The result is a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of toast, plum, blackberry and dark chocolate, all backed by mild tannins. It is a beauty. (150 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold) Clearwater Canyon Cellars $28 2012 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carménère, Washington This makes two years in a row earning Platinum for this wine from Lewiston, Idaho. Owners Karl and Coco Umiker bring in grapes from one of Washington’s top vineyards and have crafted a beautifully balanced wine with subtle aromas and flavors of black currant, black olive, thyme and sage. The moderate tannins provide perfect structure for this lesser-known Bordeaux variety. (100 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Idaho Wine Competition (gold) Locati Cellars $25 2010 Estate Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley This pleasant and earthy Sangiovese from the Walla Walla Valley offers aromas and flavors of bright cherry, dried blueberry, savory porcini mushroom and fresh cranberry and pomegranate on the finish. Enjoy with spaghetti and meatballs. (169 cases; 13.92% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Brian Carter Cellars $34 2010 Byzance, Columbia Valley Winemaker Brian Carter crafted this beautiful Southern Rhône blend using Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise and Cinsalt. It is deliciously balanced with aromas and flavors of chocolate raspberry, blueberry and darkroasted coffee. It is a wine worth savoring.

(728 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold), Washington State Wine Competition (gold) Tunnel Hill Winery $33 NV Setenta, Columbia Valley Winemaker Guy Evans crafted this unusual blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Syrah. Aromas and flavors of strawberry freezer jam, fresh raspberry, white pepper and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. Mild tannins back up all the fruit. (177 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (gold) Best Buy! Jones of Washington $15 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope Winemaker Victor Palencia has developed a delicious and affordable Cabernet Sauvignon using estate grapes on the Wahluke Slope. This is a rich, deep wine with aromas and flavors of blackberry, black cherry, rose petal, orange oil and pomegranate. A juicy midpalate gives this youthful approachability. (7,700 cases; 14.7% alc.) Medals: Sunset International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Desert Wind Winery $18 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope The Fries family works on both sides of the Columbia River, owning Duck Pond Cellars in Oregon and Desert Wind in Washington’s Yakima Valley. This tasty and affordable Cab shows off aromas and flavors that are subtle yet complex. Notes of red currant, fresh herbs, blueberry and ripe plum highlight this approachable wine. (5,000 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Cave B Estate Winery $35 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley While the Ancient Lakes region is best known for cool-climate whites, the region can be warm along its western edge, as this Cab can attest, thanks to aromas and flavors of ripe plum, blackberry jam, black pepper and dark chocolate. This is an intriguing and complete wine. (520 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum FE A T U R E Best Buy! Smasne Cellars $12 2013 Otis Vineyard Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley Winemaker Robert Smasne grew up next to these grapes and now gets to work with them professionally. He’s off to an impressive start, thanks to aromas and flavors of orange, sweet lime, sweet herbs and bright acidity. This is a great wine to pair with seafood. (375 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Willamette Valley Vineyards $55 2012 Bernau Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Named for founder and owner Jim Bernau, the block of grapes for this wine is proving its worth in the cellar, thanks to aromas and flavors of raspberry, cedar, green olive and dark strawberry. It’s an elegant wine with focus and persistence. (2,200 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medals: Sunset International Wine Competition (gold), Oregon Wine Awards (gold) Best Buy! Jones of Washington $13 2013 Rosé of Syrah, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley This wine from Victor Palencia is as pretty to look at as it is to taste. Notes of strawberry, raspberry, red currant and cotton candy are backed with juicy acidity and just a hint of sweetness to round out this gorgeous pink wine. (832 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (gold)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Gamache Vintners $30 2010 Syrah, Columbia Valley Winemaker Charlie Hoppes of Fidelitas fame crafts the wines for this producer in Prosser, Wash. Succulent aromas of black pepper and blackberry give way to savory flavors of alder-smoked bacon, ripe plum and pomegranate. (292 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (double gold), Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold), Riverside International Wine Competition (double gold), Washington State Wine Competition (double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold) Westport Winery $30 NV True Blue, Washington Out on the Washington coast, the folks at Westport Winery grow beautiful blueberries. This blueberry wine is fortified with brandy to create a dessert wine that is simply stunning. Hints of sea air lead to flavors of — you guessed it — blueberry, as well as cherry, raspberry and a hint of cinnamon. A perfect wine to savor on a cold, windy, rainy day at the beach. (85 cases; 22% alc.) Medal: Washington State Wine Competition (gold) Watermill Winery $28 2010 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Andrew Brown has yet another superb wine on his hands, as this is his third Platinum for Cab Franc. It’s a beautiful wine with aromas and flavors of red cherry, spice and a hint of cedar. It’s a terrific food wine that is ready to enjoy now. (224 cases; 14.7% alc.) Medals: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold), Oregon Wine Awards (double gold)

Watermill Winery $35 2011 Pinot Noir, Walla Walla Valley A Pinot Noir from the Walla Walla Valley is rare but not unprecedented (Woodward Canyon made one for a few years). This uses grapes from Couse Creek Vineyard and was aged in 30% new French oak. The result is a suave wine with aromas and flavors of forest floor, cherry, pomegranate and cocoa powder. (100 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (double gold) Best Buy! Pacific Rim Winemakers $11 2012 Riesling, Columbia Valley Pacific Rim was started by the incomparable Randall Grahm but now is owned by Banfi, under which it has thrived. This luscious and affordable Riesling shows off aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, juicy citrus and a hint of sweetness that rounds the edges of the impressive acidity. (30,500 cases; 11.5% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold) ANDY PERDUE is editor & publisher of Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company, and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

FE A T U R E

dynasty cellars

Slovakian refugee born into winemaking BY DAN RADIL CONTRIBUTOR

eter and Olga Osvaldik have reason to be proud of the winery they’ve established in Bellingham at Dynasty Cellars. With its warm, inviting tasting room and lounge area, local wineophiles and outof-town visitors alike have come to recognize this as Whatcom County’s “go to” place to meet friends, linger and chat over a glass of quality, handcrafted wine. Making you feel like part of the family is exactly what the Osvaldiks had in mind when they opened the tasting room at its present location in 2012. Getting there took nearly three decades, beginning with a leap of faith that put them on a journey from their native Slovak Republic to the United States.

YUGOSLAVIA TO BELLINGHAM Tired of the increasing oppression of the Communist regime in Czechoslovakia, the Osvaldiks made plans to leave the country with their six-year-old son, Peter Jr., in 1983. Using vacation privileges to enter Yugoslavia (now Croatia), they sought out a United Nations underground facility for Eastern Bloc refugees. After obtaining permission from the nearby U.S. embassy to come to America, an intense screening process, and a wait of 21⁄2 months, they were on a plane to Los Angeles. “It was quite a culture shock,” Peter recounts. “We had two suitcases, three blan-

Peter Osvaldik, his wife Olga (left) and daughter Monica

kets and about $120, that was it. And at that point we were basically on our own.” The Osvaldiks took English language classes and earned a sponsorship from a local Korean church that paid them $600. Peter began work pumping gas before becoming a general contractor, while Olga found work in the computer industry. It was Olga’s friendship with a co-worker who had connections in Bellingham that led to the suggestion they consider a move to the Northwest. After visiting the area, they decided to permanently relocate in 1990.

CABINETRY AND CABERNET “I was planning to continue general contracting in Washington,” Peter notes, “but after the first winter, there was no way I was going to do framing work outside.” He made

the switch to specialized custom cabinetry work, which still serves as his day job when he’s not making wine... a skill that has been a part of his family history for several generations. “I was actually born into winemaking; everything was fermenting and bubbling around me,” Peter recalls with a chuckle. “It got into my system right there.” After taking a few years to establish themselves in Washington, the Osvaldiks tapped into their winemaking roots by taking up home winemaking using grapes sourced from the Tri-Cities. “That was the beginning of the vortex that sucked us in,” Peter laughs. “It was a hobby gone wild.” That hobby led to the formation of Dynasty Cellars in 1995 and their first commercial release in 2006.

A BOOST FOR MORALE

Dynasty Cellars’ cozy tasting room

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

Armed with cases of wine and looking for resellers, Peter and Olga self-distributed their early releases by driving to retail outlets and wine shops. Among their first breaks was a purchase by Doug Charles at Compass Wines in Anacortes. Charles was so impressed with what he tasted that he later named the Dynasty Cellars 2006 DC3 Bordeaux blend one of his top 10 Washington red wines of 2010. Positive reviews and word-of-mouth in the local wine community also gave notice that Dynasty was indeed a winery worth checking out. “It was a boost not only for sales but a boost for morale,” Peter recalls.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

dynasty cellars FE A T U R E BIG RED WINES The Osvaldiks have been fortunate enough to source the majority of the grapes for their red wines from two of Walla Walla’s finest vineyards: Pepper Bridge and Les Collines. “I’ve always had an affinity for big, bold wines,” says Peter. “Those are the wines I like to drink. We started making those initially for our own use and the natural progression was to then make them commercially.” A visit to the tasting room today reveals a number of current releases that fit this flavor profile. Among them: a 2012 DCT Tempranillo, 2010 DCC Les Collines Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 DC3 Les Collines Meritage (a Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc), and a 2013 Late Harvest Zinfandel. Today’s wines are the result of what Peter says is a shift of his focus to more Les Collinessourced grapes. “The vineyard is maturing to perfection, the quality of the grapes is astounding, and the Syrah is one of the best in the state.” The number of different varietals grown there also allows him to purchase virtually all of his grapes from the same vineyard.

“We don’t treat our customers as customers, we treat them as friends,” Peter notes. “We want to make people feel comfortable so that the focus is on the total experience and not just about the wine.” To that end, guests can relax in a lounge area adjacent to the tasting room with comfortable chairs, sofa, gas fireplace and a flatscreen television. Local musicians perform regularly.

It’s a long way from Slovakia, but it’s exactly the kind of atmosphere the Osvaldiks envisioned in this home away from home. DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wa. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College, writes a wine column for the Bellingham Herald and produces a wine blog danthewineguy.com.

ON THE HORIZON Dynasty has recently added white wines to its tasting room menu, and the 2013 Riesling that is currently available has been so wellreceived the Osvaldiks will continue to produce it. The grapes from the 2014 Semillon harvest are also in hand, and after some trial runs with oak and stainless steel aging, the winery will release its first-ever bottling of this varietal next year. Red wines scheduled to be released in 2015 include a 2012 Primitivo, 2012 Syrah, 2012 Malbec (all sourced from Les Collines) and a Port-style red wine. Current production runs about 1,500 cases with plans to top out at about 2,500 cases within the next five years. The Osvaldiks feel this keeps the winery at a comfortable “family operated” status without compromising the level of quality.

WHAT SETS DYNASTY APART Family is indeed at the heart of Dynasty Cellars. In addition to Peter and Olga, their two other grown children, Eric and Monica, are frequently behind the tasting bar and also assist with the winemaking and sales processes to assure that customers keep coming back. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS JANUARY 16-25 Lake Chelan Winterfest, Chelan, Wash. The Lake Chelan Wine Valley has expanded this to consecutive weekends. Go to lakechelanwinterfest.com.

ies. Call 800-262-7844 or go to seafoodandwine.com. 22 Seattle Wine and Food Experience. Seattle Center plays host to the seventh annual Northwest event including wines from Washington, Oregon and Idaho, more than 20 chefs and live music. Cost is $60. Go to seattlewineandfoodexperience.com.

23-24 First Taste Oregon, Salem. The former Oregon Wine, Food and Brew Festival is back at the state fairgrounds for the third straight year with 40 wineries, education and a wine competition. Call 866-904-6165 or visit FirstTasteOregon.com.

17-19 Idaho wine industry annual meeting, Boise. Enology, viticulture and business returns to the Boise Hotel and Conference Center. Go to wine.idaho.gov.

24 Gifts from the Earth, Seattle. The South Seattle Community College Foundation showcases its culinary arts and wine program by pairing 15 chefs with 30 Washington wineries. Call 206-934-5809 or go to southseattle.edu/foundation.

24-25 Oregon Wine Industry Symposium, Portland. Enology, viticulture and business returns to the Oregon Convention Center for the third straight year. Go to symposium.oregonwine.org.

30-31 Portland Seafood & Wine Festival. This multiple sclerosis fundraiser brings 50 wineries to the Oregon Convention Center. Go to pdxseafoodandwinefestival.com.

FEBRUARY 31 Wenatchee Winter Wine Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. The 12th annual fundraiser for the Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center features regional wineries and chefs. Call 509-888-6240 or go to www.wenatcheewa.gov. 7 St. Joseph’s Art & Wine, Kennewick, Wash. The 18th annual fundraiser for St. Joseph’s Parish and School features regional wines, restaurants, artists and musicians. Cost is $75. Go to stjoesartandwine.com. 10-13 Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers Convention, Kennewick, Wash. Growers, winemakers and vendors throughout the Northwest convene at the Three Rivers Convention Center and Toyota Center for the 18th annual meeting and trade show. Call 509-782-8234 or visit wawgg.org. 6-7 Enumclaw Chocolate & Wine Festival. More than 20 wineries return to the Enumclaw Expo Center for the seventh annual event. Call 360-615-5626 or go to enumclawchocolatefestival.com. 7-8 and 14-16 Red Wine & Chocolate Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. Member wineries on the peninsula and islands pour it on over two weekends and Presidents Day. Cost is $30. Call 800-785-5495 or go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org. 8 Women Stars of Food and Wine, Seattle. The iconic Columbia Tower Club and Seattle Uncorked brings Northwest female winemakers, sommeliers, chefs and writers to the 76th floor. Cost is $50 for this three-hour event. Go to seattleuncorked.com.

MARCH 2 Walla Walla Mobile Wine Tour, Portland. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for 2 1⁄2 hours at Pure Space in support of the Classic Wine Auctions. Cost is $60. Go to wallawallawine.com. 7 Classic Wines Auction, Portland. This 31st annual fundraiser for Portland-area children sells out months in advance. It features winemakers and restaurants on both sides of the Columbia. Call 503-972-0194 or go to classicwinesauction.com. 7 Greatest of the Grape, Canyonville, Ore. The oldest wine event in the Northwest celebrates its 45th anniversary and pairs Southern Oregon wineries with restaurants at Seven Feathers Casino. Cost is $75. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org. 12-15 Savor Cannon Beach, Ore. Four days of wine tasting and culinary events include a Saturday walk showcasing Northwest wineries. Tickets start at $35. Go to savorcannonbeach.com. 13-15 McMinnville Wine & Food Classic, McMinnville, Ore. This 22-year-old event lands at the Evergreen Space Museum. Cost is $15. Call 503-472-4033 or go to sipclassic.org. 14 Oregon Chardonnay Symposium, Dayton. Many of the state’s premier Chardonnay producers stage a public tasting at Stoller Family Estate. Cost is $50. Go to oregonchardonnaysymposium.com. 28-29 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington's signature wine event at the CenturyLink Field Event Center spans two days of public tasting and education. Tickets start at $80. Go to tastewashington.org.

9 Walla Walla Mobile Wine Tour, Seattle. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for 2 1⁄2 hours at McCaw Hall. Cost is $50. Go to wallawallawine.com. 14-16 Red Wine and Chocolate, Yakima Valley, Wash. More than 50 wineries in the heart of the Northwest’s oldest grape-growing region pair their wines with chocolate. Reserve ticket is $35. Call 509-965-5201 or go to wineyakimavalley.org. 19-22 Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, Newport, Ore. The 38th annual event features more than 50 winerW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

WINE PRESS NORTHWEST WINEP RESSN

Reach over 80,000 readers with your advertising message.

W.COM

SPRIN G 2014

NORTHWEST

WINERY OF THE

PIN OT

GRI S REV IEW

YEAR

S | DES

TIN ATI from ON Plus, winners ington and Idaho Oregon, Wash

U.S. $5

NVI LLE

| HIK E,

72 HO OLYMPI URS ON TH E C PEN lovers gu ide to the INSULA Olymp

A wine

Canada $6

74470 94059

MC MIN

0 2>

ic Penins

ula

U.S. $5

Canad

a $6 0 5>

74470

WIN E

& DIN E

Wine Press Northwest distribution • Quarterly magazine subscribers; WA, ID, OR, CA & Canada • Tri-City Herald newspaper subscribers • Retail outlet sales

Qualiﬁed Audience

94059 3

5,000 copies per issue direct mailed to known wine enthusiasts (Portland, Seattle & Puget Sound area) Call or write today to receive Wine Press Northwest 2015 Advertising Media Kit. Ask about our frequency discount program Carol Perkins, Advertising Media Consultant 509-582-1438 • cperkins@winepressnw.com

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

MATCH MAKER

Creating new attitudes in Altitude Restaurant at

THE RESORT

AT THE MOUNTAIN STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOS BY CAROLYN WELLS-KRAMER

ELCHES, Ore. – OJ Robinson found a garden spot among the foothills of Mount Hood where he can grow as a chef, broaden his palate for Northwest wines and feed another passion: golf. Last spring, The Resort at the Mountain hired Robinson, 40, to take over the culinary program at the historic property that features two restaurants, a 157-room hotel, outdoor pool, spa, 15,000 square feet of conference space and 27 holes of golf. “I do love to golf, but this is only my fourth or fifth full season, and I still have probably a 20-handicap,” Robinson chuckled. “But I have a rule on the golf course that I don’t talk shop. It’s a good release for me to just go out there and hang out. “The job here was just luck that they had golf, and I like that there are nine-hole courses,” he said. “We can go out at 5 p.m. and come back to the restaurant at 7 p.m.” His move from one Oregon mountain community to another seems to be a natural progression for Robinson. He grew up in Bend and spent his culinary career there before deciding to work in Welches — 60 minutes from Portland — for Coastal Hotels, whose properties include Cedarbrook Lodge near Seattle and Semiahmoo in Blaine, Wash. 61

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

“I started washing dishes when I was 14 at a Chinese restaurant in Bend,” Robinson said. “A year later, I was washing dishes at a steakhouse, and the fry cook didn’t show up one night, so I started helping the guys on the line. The next day I went in, and they asked me if I wanted to be a line cook. Obviously, I did because I wanted to get out of the dishwashing.” Along the way, though, he also spent time at a machine shop and with the Postal Service. “The machine shop was always the same thing everyday. It was too boring for me,” he said. “And there was no camaraderie there. Nobody was happy. I didn’t want that. I wanted something where I liked going to work and felt like I was accomplishing something.” A career in the kitchen wasn’t something he spent much time thinking about until he received a compliment from an executive chef who told Robinson that he “some natural talent” in him. “I think to succeed in this business, you really want to make people happy,” Robinson said. “Whether it be some corporate head honcho or a guy celebrating his wedding anniversary. Everybody should leave feeling like they are a rock star and the only person

in the dining room. I think you really have to want to do that. And I do.” That desire to create dining experiences inspired him to attend the Cascade Culinary Institute in Bend, “but this was back when people thought of us as ‘just cooks,’ ” Robinson said. Yet, he saw a future in it. “If the days you are happy outnumber the days you aren’t happy, then you are doing well,” Robinson said. His background includes a line cook at iconic Deschutes Brewery on his way to executive chef at Honkers Steak and Chop House in Bend. He spent five years there before entering the world of golf in 2002 at Seventh Mountain Resort. By 2009, he’d taken over the culinary program at Seventh Mountain, and five years later, he left Seventh Mountain for The Resort at The Mountain. He oversees two restaurants — including the fine-dining Altitude — and a growing banquet business. “It’s been a great career for me,” he said. “I’ve met a lot of great people, been a lot of great places and had a lot of fun.” He’s also gotten to know some of the Northwest’s top winemakers and looks forward to shorter drives to wine country in both the Willamette Valley and the Walla Walla Valley. Among his Walla Walla WINEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKERS

Argyle Winery $27 2011 Vintage Brut, Willamette Valley — 13,750 cases, 12.5% alcohol Oregon’s largest production of sparkling wine consistently ranks as one of the best in the Pacific Northwest, and its placement on a list — or lack thereof — is a quick way to judge how serious a restaurant is about its wine program. Argyle was founded in 1987 by Texas winemaker Rollin Soles and Australia’s Brian Croser, and their intent was to create only sparkling wine using methode champenoise. Five years later, they added still wines to the portfolio, which sources from three sites spanning more than 400 acres. There’s Knudsen Vineyard (1974) in the Dundee Hills, Lone Star Vineyard, a warmer site in the Eola-Amity Hills, and Spirit Hill Vineyard, another Eola-Amity Hills parcel although it is cooled by the coastal breezes that sail through the Van Duzer corridor. The 2011 vintage went in the books as the coolest in recent history in the Willamette Valley, but ripeness is rarely a concern for sparkling wines, which routinely are harvested having accumulated considerably less sugar than typical still wines. Such was the case for this blend of Pinot Noir (60 percent) and Chardonnay, taken off their vines at just 19.5 percent Brix. Grapes picked for Pinot Noir still bottlings are targeted to reach 24 Brix. It’s a classic sparkling wine with delicate aromas and flavors of Asian pear, Gala apple and Rainier cherry, backed by light toast and racy lemony acidity. Argyle suggests enjoying the 2011 Brut with oysters, and another classic pairing is with popcorn sprinkled with truffle salt. This marked the penultimate vintage at Argyle for Soles, an icon in the Oregon wine industry for his talents, his charisma and his handlebar mustache. He stepped away from Argyle in 2013 to focus on his own ROCO brand, handing the reins over to longtime assistant Nate Klostermann. Argyle Winery, 691 Highway 99W, Dundee, OR 97115, 888-427-4953, argylewinery.com.

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

favorites are Castillo de Feliciana, Dunham, Dusted Valley, Saviah, Sleight of Hand and Waterbrook. “One thing about Walla Walla that I’ve noticed is that a lot of the time, the guy behind the counter pouring is in overalls and flannel shirt,” Robinson said. “He’s been making wine for years, and he doesn’t understand what the hoopla is about. Those are the people I love. They really want to share what they are doing.” Next year, he plans to schedule winemaker and brewmaster dinners while still getting back to Bend — where a few know him by his given name Omar Jason — for charity events representing The Resort at The Mountain. There’s a fair bit of history involving the resort. In 1882, Samuel Welch purchased 320 acres along the Sandy River and expanded his holdings to 1,000 acres before creating his resort a decade later. A nine-hole course was built in 1928, and the resort stayed in the family until World War II. During the Seventies, the third nine was built and the property became known as Rippling River Resort. Seattle-based Coastal Hotels purchased the resort in 2007. The property appeals to active families, starting with its proximity to Mount Hood and fishing in the Sandy River. There also are tennis courts, croquet and lawn bowling, badminton and volleyball courts, basketball, a fitness center, nature trails and an 18-hole lighted putting course. Next spring, The Resort at the Mountain plans to offer footgolf along one of its three courses. The new sport is played by kicking a soccer ball along the fairway and holing out on a separate “putting” green — near the traditional golf green — with a larger, soccerball-sized cup. The moribund American golf industry hopes getting a different type of athlete out to their courses will eventually inspire the footgolfer to pick up the traditional form of the sport. “Golf is somewhat like the hospitality industry and fine dining,” Robinson said. “There’s this mystique around it. It’s almost a market killer because people are afraid to go out there on the course.” Aaron Williams, The Resort at the Mountain’s director of food and beverage as well as Robinson’s golfing partner, worked at courses and restaurants throughout the country before the UCLA grad arrived last year to

retool the property, which includes Mallard’s — the golf course pub that focuses on beer-based food. The wine list at Altitude is unpretentious, limited to a single page featuring affordable wines from Washington the likes of Seven Falls (Ste. Michelle), StoneCap (Goose Ridge) and Waterbrook (Precept). Oregon Pinot Noir is represented both by longtime brands Archery Summit and new ones such as Angela Estate, which is crafted by the renowned Ken Wright. Pinot Gris from King Estate and Oak Knoll shares space with sparkling wine from Sokol Blosser’s Evolution program. For their Match Maker assignment, Robinson and Williams collaborated on pairings for Argyle Winery’s 2011 Brut and the Union Wine Co.’s Underwood 2013 Pinot Noir. Both serve as examples of their approach at Altitude, starting with sparkling wine — which is not just for weddings or other special occasions. “It does go with just about anything, and we’re trying to share with people what we want them to know,” Robinson said. A prime example is the Rosemary-Lemon Scallops and Veal Sweetbreads. For those unfamiliar with sweetbreads, they are the thymus gland and pancreas, typically from calves or lamb. When cooked, they are reminiscent of chicken liver — minus the mineral aftertaste — with a texture that’s crunchy on the outside and silky-smooth on the inside. “Everybody on my staff who has been afraid of them has tried them and said, ‘Wow, that’s really good,” Robinson said. “It’s kind of like ‘surf and turf ’ in a different way than you would ever think of it being. “I just want people to try different parts of the animal and the sweetbread are a perfect example,” Robinson added. “I want to introduce that dish to people, but we don’t want to be stand-offish or make them feel they don’t belong here.” The Argyle Brut is done methode champenoise, bringing bright acidity with a dry, food-friendly finish. “The acid in that wine goes well with the richness of the sweetbreads and the saltiness of the prosciutto,” Robinson said. “It ties it all together. It’s amazing what a little shot of acid can do. You drink the bubbles after you take a bite of the scallop or the sweetbread. The lemon juice and bubbles both clean the palate, and it’s like starting over.” WINEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKERS

Rosemary-Lemon Scallops and Veal Sweetbreads Serves 4

Sweetbreads 1 pound of veal sweetbreads 1 cup 2 percent milk 8 ounces dry white wine 16 ounces water 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon white peppercorns 1 lemon, juiced and then added 1 sprig thyme 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1. Trim excess fat from sweetbreads. Soak in milk for 24 hours. 2. Bring rest of ingredients to a simmer in a sauce pot. Turn heat to low and add sweetbreads. Simmer 15 minutes. 3. Cool sweetbreads in liquid for two hours. Remove from liquid, discard liquid.

WINEPRESSN W .C O M

4. Wrap sweetbreads tightly in plastic wrap and press with about two pounds of weight for 24 hours.

Scallops 8 each U10 diver scallops 8 slices prosciutto 8 sprigs rosemary, leaves removed, leaving some at the top Salt and pepper to taste 1. Remove side muscles from scallops. Wrap with prosciutto slices and skewer on rosemary sprigs. Set aside.

Assembly

dium. 3. Brown both sides of the sweetbreads, deglaze with a cup of wine and cup of chicken stock. Reduce by half and add a tablespoon of heavy cream. 4. Add lemon juice and rosemary. 5. Pan sear scallops in another pan. Cook until tender.

Plating Place sweetbreads on plate. Place skewered scallops across sweetbreads. Spoon sauce over scallops and sweetbreads. Drizzle remaining sauce around plate.

1. Remove sweetbreads from plastic wrap and slice into eight equal slices. 2. In a sautĂŠ pan, heat oil until almost smoking. Place the sweetbreads in pan and brown, turn heat down to me-

Wint e r 2 0 1 4 â&#x20AC;˘ Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

MATCH MAKERS

Venison Osso Bucco with Lentil Risotto and Apple-Horseradish Gremolata Serves 4 4 venison shanks 6 ounces celery, chopped 6 ounces carrots, peeled and chopped 12 ounces yellow onions, peeled and chopped 2 ounces garlic, minced 1 cinnamon stick 1 clove 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 quart venison stock or beef stock 1 cup red wine 1 tablespoon salt 2 sprigs Italian parsley 2 sprigs rosemary

Lentil Risotto 2 cups cooked lentils 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 cup chicken stock or broth ¼ cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard salt and pepper to taste

Apple Horseradish Gremolata 1 Granny Smith apple, fine diced ¼ cup Italian parsley, minced Juice and zest of two lemons 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoon horseradish

Gremolata 1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Stir to combine, set aside.

Osso Bucco 1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Lightly flour venison shanks, set aside. Heat olive oil in a braising pan, brown shanks on all sides until well seared, remove from pan and set aside. 2. Cook carrots, celery, onions and garlic until onions are translucent and browned. Deglaze with burgundy wine, reduce by 1/3.

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

3. Add shanks back to pan and cover with venison or beef stock. Bring to a simmer and add remaining ingredients. Cover pan with a lid or foil. 4. Place in oven and braise for 3 to 4 hours. Remove pan from oven and let cool for 30 minutes. Remove shanks from pan and tent with foil to keep warm.

Plating Place lentils on a large pasta plate. Place osso bucco atop lentils. Ladle reserved sauce over shanks and garnish with the gremolata.

5. Strain liquid into a clean sauce pan and reduce by half, keep warm.

Lentils 1. Sauté shallots and garlic until shallots are translucent. Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. 2. Allow lentils to absorb chicken stock. Stir in cream and turn heat to low. Stir in Dijon mustard. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

WINEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKERS

••• The Resort at The Mountain

theresort.com 68010 E. Fairway Ave., Welches, OR 97067, 503-622-3101

If Robinson and Williams really wanted to dress down their presentation of the Venison Osso Bucco with Lentil Risotto and Apple-Horseradish Gremolata, they would serve the Underwood Pinot Noir at table side not from the traditional bottle but from the 375-milliliter aluminum can that it also comes in. “That Underwood Pinot Noir, we keep that on hand at our house,” Robinson said. “My girlfriend is in love with that wine.” The flavor profile of Marionberry, WINEPRESSN W .C O M

black currant and plum with juicy acidity stood up with the braised approach to the venison osso bucco, which doesn’t come across as gamy and doesn’t require a knife. And both dishes were part of the fall menu at Altitude. “There’s this mystique of fine dining, but it’s just food,” Robinson said. “I’ve seen people get nervous, so I tell them, ‘Just relax and eat. Have a good time.’” e is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www. greatnorthwestwine.com. ERIC DEGERMAN

Union Wine Co. $12 2013 Underwood Pinot Noir, Oregon — 60,000 cases, 13% alcohol Ryan Harms creates fruit-forward wines, prices them affordably, makes them widely available, and strips away snobbishness. His promotional photographs even depict him either in suspenders or shorts and a T-shirt. He’s even commissioned a series of eight short videos with the theme of “Wine doesn’t have to be this hard” and promoting it with the hashtag of #pinkiesdown. Harms launched Union in 2005 after working at some of Oregon’s top Pinot Noir houses — Bergstrom, Torii Mor and Rex Hill. Within a decade, he’s ramped up production beyond 100,000 cases, making it one of the state’s fastest growing wineries. The Underwood is the least expensive Pinot Noir of Harms’ three tiers, but it’s his largest single production. Historically, he sources from vineyards in the warmer Umpqua Valley such as Melrose and Vehrs while blending fruit from cooler Willamette Valley sites — La Colina in the Dundee Hills, and Carabella and Chehalem Mountain vineyards. The role of Umpqua Valley fruit in the Underwood helps set the table for aromas and flavors of Marionberry, cherry juice and cranberry with earthiness behind a structure that favors acidity over tannin. And there’s also the packaging. Underwood Pinot Noir is available in a screwcap bottle as well as in a four-pack of 375-ml aluminum cans at an equivalent price. Harms, in fitting with his business model, builds his wines at an industrial park near the Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge near Sherwood. There is no tasting room, but the wines are distributed in nearly every state in the country. And his mobile tasting truck — a renovated 1972 Citroën H Van — can sometimes be spotted among food trucks on the streets of Portland. Union Wine Co., 19550 SW Cipole Road, Tualatin, OR 97062, 971-322-4791, unionwinecompany.com.

Wint e r 2 0 1 4 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 014 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

CO L U M N

grapes of roth BY COKE ROTH

Platinum judging: A complex beauty pageant

ell, ladies and gentlemen, this Wine Press issue reveals the Platinum results; where the judges are expected to find the best of the best from wines that were awarded a competition Gold medal. A beauty contest of this magnitude has its complexities, as envious as it may seem to the unwashed who only get to read about it and not participate like I did….eat your heart out, Sucker! So how do we know when a wine is a Gold, a Double Gold or Platinum? And, moreover, how do you tell if an avant-garde variety is good? And these blends of strange bedfellows….WT….er…Heck! This mission calls for some deep cogitation and legal research. In the landmark United States Supreme Court case of Jacobellis v. Ohio, Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart attempted to describe his threshold for obscenity. Using the “Roth Test” (coincidence? I think not.) to determine whether a frisky movie was protected speech or not, Justice Stewart said: “I shall not today attempt further to define the kinds of material I understand to be embraced with that shorthand description [“hard-core pornography”], and perhaps I could never succeed in intelligibly doing so. But I know it when I see it and the motion picture involved in this case is not that”. And that’s the way it was for all of us judges back in late October; looking for consensus on what we individually saw as the best wines. We personally knew a winner when we saw one. And the unification of opinion meant a wine struck pay-dirt. It is all subjective when we see it. The first thing we do is try to eliminate those wines to which we take exception. Sometimes we take exception to too much of a good thing, and sometimes we take exception to too much of a bad thing. An example of too much of a good thing is oak. Oh, the charm that complementary oak brings to certain wines is so appealing: Toast, chocolate, vanilla. But when aromas of pencil

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 014

shavings and dominating oak flavors make it an “oak monster”, not even time will heal too much of that good thing. I can tell you one thing; I know too much oak when I smell and taste it. And what the barrel itself does beyond the infusion of flavors and aromas is extraordinary; oxidation mellows harsh tannins and fermentation aromas to become an estery bouquet. But too much oxygen makes the wine pruny… As much as people my age need prune juice, it might be an elixir to some, but not to me. There’s another love – hate component set of chemicals that comes from a feral yeast, Brettanomyces. It smells oh so sexy when it's in small amounts. But, after it blooms and inundates the wine with higher concentrations of what we refer to as “Brett”, it smells like the horse barn on the fourth day of the fair, among other delicious odors, like BandAids. Some people reject a wine with just a little bit of Brett, and some people feel that a wine is not a good wine unless it smells like a feedlot. Personally, I know when there's too much Brett… When I smell and taste it. The group of chemicals that we call “volatile acidity”, comprised of vinegar, nail polish and nail polish remover, actually smell downright good in certain circumstances. I embrace vinegar – enhanced salad dressings. The smell of nail polish and nail polish remover is often engaging to a real man like me because of its feminine nexus. But a couple drops of that stuff in a wine is a fault to some, while others call it a virtue. But people know what the right concentration is for them when they smell it. How much of something is too much of something. Or under the “Roth Test”, it might be said how little of something is too much of something …ahem. How much is too much perfume, or salt, or pepper? Is a handful of rings extravagant or gaudy, is the music too loud or does it rock, and is the tequila smooth or does it warrant a 911 call…? All examples of what we smell, taste,

Sometimes we take exception to too much of a good thing, and sometimes we take exception to too much of a bad thing. see, hear and feel that tell us we like it or we don’t. One thing for sure, we know it when we see it. Until you tried a peach, how did you know what it was supposed to taste like? I know that my kind of Pinot Noir has red currant, pie cherry, a hint of raspberry and violets. But what about Montepulciano, Dolcetto or Nebbiolo? How do I know whether I’m going to like a blend of GewurztraminerSchönburger? Well, the first time I tasted a standalone Mourvedre’, I didn’t know what to expect, but I liked it. What we look for, whether tasting a variety we’ve never heard of or a blend of what we consider to be family, is sound wine; and we know it when we see it. There were several wines that received a Platinum that I didn’t particularly like. And there were several wines that I thought would go the distance that never made it to first base, because my esteemed counterparts judging the wine didn't see what I saw when I saw it. By using the Platinum results as a guide, I hope you see what I saw, and consume it with your pals who see it, in moderation, frequently. is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. Learn more about him at cokerothlaw.com. COKE ROTH

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M