Wine Press Northwest Fall 2007

01 Cover

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02 Best Western ad

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04 Contents

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 10, No. 3

N O R T H W E S T

Fall 2007 An architectural detail at Timberline Lodge, one of our wine list award winners.

A dish in the shape of a tepee from the kitchen of Nk’Mip Cellars is just one of the culinary discoveries waiting to be found in the Northwest.

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70 The backyard herb garden that supplies Pearl’s on Pearl.

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DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

36 Wining & Dining Wine Country cuisine and lifestyle — the Northwest way.

60 Merlot Straight Up We blind taste 120 Northwest Merlots.

70 Wine List Awards Find out which restaurants have the best Northwest wine lists.

82 Horsing Around Discover a unique way to experience Northwest wine country.

88 Zin-fully delicious Two Northwest chefs pair their dishes with The Pines 1852 Zinfandel.

ON THE COVER A stew cooks up at Mortimer’s in Boise. Join cookbook author Braiden Rex-Johnson in her search for flavors of the Northwest.

Story starts on Page 36.

Photo by Jackie Johnston

6 Wine Nose Slow down and taste the bounty

8 A Distant Perspective Respecting quality, history, legacy

10 Market Grapevine Autumn’s amazing abundance

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Tips for crossing borders with wine

14 Urban Sips I’ll take Potent Potables for $400, Alex

16 10 Things to Do 19 Northwest Wine Events 20 Wine Destinations Sun Valley

96 Recent Releases 114 Vintage Musings At 25, Latah Creek aging nicely

05 Masthead

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Krista McCorkle Davis, Jay Drysdale, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Bob Woehler, Paul Sinclair, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Tasting panel facilitator: Paul Sinclair Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Braiden Rex-Johnson Contributing photographers: Jackie Johnston Contributing artist: Kenneth Susynski Ad sales: Mona Perdue, 360-373-2659 E-mail: mperdue@silverlink.net To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $10 U.S., $12 Canadian and $15 outside of North America per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site.

Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below.

Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2007 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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06 Wine Nose

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

Slow down and taste the bounty

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n retrospect, we could have called this the “food and wine issue.” While our primary focus is on the wines of the Pacific Northwest, we always try to keep in mind the kinds of food they will go with, focusing especially on fresh regional cuisine.

And this issue of Wine Press Northwest probably does as good a job of exploring that as we’ve ever done.

We start with the cover story by Braiden Rex-Johnson, whose exciting new book, Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining, comes out Oct. 29. In her article, Braiden talks about her exploration of Northwest wine country cuisine and shares stories she learned along the journey. We include two recipes in the article, and more are available at winepressnw.com. Jackie Johnston, whose photography and feature design are hallmarks in each issue of Wine Press Northwest, took the photos for Braiden’s book.

Braiden has contributed a column for us since 2000, focusing on simple-to-make recipes using in-season ingredients she finds at the Pike Place Market, which she could hit with a tomatillo from her condo in downtown Seattle. Each of these recipes is paired with Northwest wines.

Also in this issue, Managing Editor Eric Degerman looks at the best efforts by restaurants in our ninth annual Great Northwest Wine Lists Competition. Interestingly, we see more restaurants embracing regional wines in a big way, and those that do usually are doing the best job of cooking with locally produced ingredients.

Since Vol. 1, No. 1, Eric has written our Match Makers feature, in which he sends a bottle of wine to two chefs somewhere in the Northwest and asks them to pair a recipe. In this issue, he takes a Zinfandel from The Pines 1892 in The Dalles to Hood River, Ore., and to Ellensburg, Wash., where our guest chefs got especially creative.

While eating has always been an important function for me, where the food came from has not. I grew up in Bremerton, Wash., and like many city kids, I thought food came from the grocery store, not a farm. The closest I came to understanding there was something to fresh, locally grown ingredients was picking wild blackberries with my grandmother in south Seattle. They were as delicious fresh as they were in the pies and cobblers she made with them. Grandma grew up during the Depression on farms in Nebraska and Colorado, and she had a deep appreciation for the land and those who worked it.

Even after moving east of the Cascades — where a lot of our food is grown — I lived in relative ignorance for years, not taking advantage of the roadside stands and farmers markets that provide asparagus, onions, corn and apples as fresh as those Seattle blackberries. In the past few years, however, I’ve tried to be more aware and now look forward to certain times of the year. When Cinco de Mayo rolls around, I know it’s asparagus season. In June, I can count on fresh cherries, followed quickly

by Walla Walla sweet onions through July. Sweet corn and 6

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Hermiston melons come along in August, as do peaches and nectarines. In September, apples show up en masse, followed by squashes in October. I now have access to three good-sized farmers markets in town, which combined are open four days a week. I have no excuse for not supporting them.

This summer as we had friends over for dinner, it struck me just how important local produce has become for us.

We started the meal with appetizers, including pesto I’d made an hour earlier from four varieties of basil grown on the back porch and Cougar Gold cheese from Pullman. The baba ghanoush I made used eggplants purchased the day prior at the Pasco Farmers Market, and the salad course included raspberries from the farmers market. For fun, we served a palatecleansing sorbet whose primary ingredient was a bottle of Thurston Wolfe Petite Sirah from the Horse Heaven Hills. The main course included a side of caramelized Walla Walla sweets. The dessert was ice cream topped with syrup made from Sangiovese grapes grown in our backyard. Of the four wines we opened, one was from Washington and two were from British Columbia (the fourth was an aged Brunello).

Like wine, some of the best produce we can eat is local because it’s fresh from the farm, not trucked in from who knows where. Seattle residents are fortunate to have the Pike Place Market, which celebrates its first century this year. And I always marvel that fresh oysters are available in season at farmers markets in downtown Portland.

According to the Washington State Farmers Market Association, there are more than 100 markets open seasonally.

Oregon has at least 90, according to the Oregon Farmers Markets Association. British Columbia has more than 100, according to the B.C. Association of Farmers Markets. And Idaho has at least 25. This does not include the abundance of roadside stands open throughout the Northwest or the hundred or more artisan cheese producers dotting the landscape.

In other words, for at least six months of the year, we Pacific Northwesterners have the bounty of the land laid at our feet. We have access to food that is fresher — and often less expensive — than anything we can find through typical channels. As with wineries, when we go to a farmers market or roadside stand, the hands that take our dollars probably sowed the seeds and harvested the produce.

For these small farmers, cheese producers and winemakers, I am becoming more and more grateful. Life runs at such a hectic pace that it is refreshing to occasionally slow down so we can enjoy and appreciate the food our region has to offer.

ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 and via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com. Watch his weekly video wine show at www.winepressnw.com/video/vodcast.

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a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Respecting quality, history, legacy

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rofit is the main reason wine companies exist. OK, call me a cynic. But that’s a reality of life. Without profits, a company would collapse, and wine couldn’t be made.

Now that that bit of cynicism is out of the way, let’s look at the secondary motives of wine companies. Some want profits to be as high as possible and damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead. This means that quality takes a far less important role than it ought to. And in some cases, this “quality ain’t the issue” attitude has a way of tearing at the fabric of what once may have been a classic enterprise.

One that comes to mind dates back a decade to when John Dyson, a New York winery owner, bought the iconic Russian River Valley Pinot Noir producer Williams Selyem. The first words I heard from Williams Selyem loyalists were gloomy predictions that Dyson would immediately ratchet up production, destroy the fine image and wreck the wines.

What wasn’t known at the time was Dyson is a respectful man who wanted little more than to own the finest Pinot Noir house in the New World. Or that he spent three years negotiating the deal to the ultimate satisfaction of Burt Williams and Ed Selyem, and that his plans for the property were to make it even greater than it had been. And with Bob Cabral at the helm, the house remains a stellar producer of quality wines.

By contrast, there is the case of British-based Heublein and its stewardship (if the term applies) of the late, lamented Inglenook, founded in 1879 in the heart of the Napa Valley.

To say that Heublein raped the image and ran the ship aground is mild. At the wake closing the facility, employees wept at the loss of historical legacy and the dismantling of a great and truly magnificent brand.

Some companies, obviously, see only dollar signs; others are respectful of the soil, the terroir, the image and the legacy.

And thus it is that I envision great things for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in its second incarnation as a division of Chateau Ste. Michelle and, of course, its partnership with the Marchesi Piero Antinori.

Ste. Michelle can only be described as a giant with heart, a company that has grown to become the largest in Washington but without ever taking its eye off the concept of image and quality. As well as value. And its recent acquisition of one of the Napa Valley’s most important producers is not only a great moment for President Ted Baseler, but also an even greater decision on the part of Warren Winiarski, who undoubtedly had more than one offer to acquire his prize jewel and who made a decision that, I seriously suspect, was less about money and more about heart.

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come into contact, almost none have the personal integrity and the commitment to people (both employees and consumers) as do Ste. Michelle and Antinori. Say what cynical remarks may come to mind, but I couldn’t think of a better fit than these two entities becoming the new owners of a brand as vital to California’s image as Stag’s Leap.

A few important points about why this all works: • Ste. Michelle already has roots in the Napa Valley, with a skilled staff that is seeking to make world-class wine there.

• Antinori also has roots there, in the Atlas Peak area.

• Winiarski is best known for his world-famed Cabernet Sauvignon, but his other wines are equally superb, yet have had the unfortunate luck to be in the same house with the wine that vanquished the French in 1976. A 30-year wait may be over for those “other” wines to get their fair share of recognition. This means a superb Chardonnay, a sublime Sauvignon Blanc and other wines will finally be placed on a more visible stage where they rightly belong. (Until now, Winiarski has been so busy managing his Cabernet image that the other wines haven’t been given due recognition.)

• The sale allows Winiarski to drop some of the humdrum, day-to-day aspects of running a large winery so he can become more of the spokesman-philosopher-terroir-ist he probably prefers. We have not yet heard the last of Warren!

A key point about Ste. Michelle is its commitment to wines that exhibit local characteristics, and in this acquisition the winery gets its hands on one of the Napa Valley’s most important and historic Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vineyards, in a region that seems to have some of the most identifiable regional elements for its red wines of any in the country.

A key point about Antinori is that everything he touches is marked with class. I will never forget a blazing hot day in Aspen decades ago during a wine festival. The temperature in a tent was well over 100. Antinori was the only vintner who never took off his tie! And he smiled and greeted every guest to his table with a warmth that was utterly genuine.

If you have ever tasted one of his house’s classic Chianti Classico Riserva wines, or Tignanello, or Solaia, you will understand what drives this man. Quality is the key to his persona.

Thinking of the two new owners of this most important Napa property, I’d say Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is under trustworthy stewardship, a development for which all wine lovers should be thankful.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer and judge who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (www.

VintageExperiences.com).

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market grapevine

BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Autumn’s amazing abundance Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

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s the leaves change color and that little nip enters the air, Northwest cooks welcome the heartier food preparations of the season, along with autumn’s amazing abundance of Dungeness crab and shellfish; game meats, turkey and holiday roasts; artisanal cheese; and fall produce, herbs and nuts.

Our harvest supper begins with Dungeness Crab with Ginger-Cilantro Mayonnaise, a recipe from Hilda Jones, proprietor, with husband Earl, of Abacela Winery in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. Begin by placing one whole egg, one egg yolk, two tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, half a teaspoon of kosher salt and one-quarter teaspoon Dijon mustard in a food processor or blender and pulse for 15 seconds, or until well mixed. With the motor running, add half a cup of light olive oil in a slow, steady stream, a few tablespoons at a time, incorporating well after each addition.

Repeat with half a cup of canola oil. Add half a bunch of fresh cilantro (rinsed, patted dry and coarsely chopped) and one tablespoon freshly grated gingerroot and pulse until incorporated. Taste and add additional cilantro if desired. Serve the mayonnaise with two or three precooked and chilled cracked Dungeness crabs.

The sweet crab and luscious green goddesslike dressing make a pleasant pairing with Abacela’s 2006 Albariño ($23).

Made from estate-grown grapes, this award-winning white wine displays stone fruit and citrus aromas. Creamy pineapple and apple flavors lead on the palate with a crisp, dry, mineral-rich finish, the perfect seafood wine.

I enjoyed our first-course dish at Seattle’s sumptuous Smash Wine Bar, where then-chef Kristen Ratcliffe prepared some delectable Duck and Shiitake Spring Rolls filled with shredded green cabbage, minced ginger, crushed garlic, sliced shiitakes, fish sauce, soy sauce, black pepper and duck confit. She wrapped the filling in egg roll wrappers and fried the spring rolls.

Chef Kristen’s lovely duo of dipping sauces included a Sweet Chili Sauce made by combining one-half cup sweet chili sauce, one tablespoon Sriracha sauce and one tablespoon chili garlic sauce in a small, nonreactive mixing bowl.

Chill before serving. Make her Sesame Ginger Sauce by combining one-quarter cup soy sauce, one-quarter cup seasoned rice vinegar, two tablespoons regular (not toasted) sesame oil and one tablespoon each chopped fresh gingerroot and garlic in a small, nonreactive mixing bowl. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes, then strain and chill before serving.

Jeffrey Dorgan, former wine director at Smash, suggested several wine pairings with the Duck and Shiitake Spring Rolls including an off-dry Riesling, Pinot Noir and a Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine blend. But most intriguing was Powers Winery 2004 Syrah ($13) from the Columbia Valley. This 10

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intense wine abounds with complex aromas of dark fruits (black currant, plum and boysenberry) and a touch of vanilla.

These aromas carry onto the full-bodied palate with the addition of black pepper. Jeffrey even remarked on a “soy sauce” note that pairs so well with Chef Kristen’s Asian dipping sauces.

Our entrée recipe comes from the recipe section of the Web site of Inniskillin Winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley: Balsamic-Vinegar/Herb-Marinated Pork Tenderloin. To make the pork, place one-quarter cup each balsamic vinegar and light olive oil in the bowl of a food processor. Add half a cup of coarsely chopped fresh herbs of the season (such as sage, thyme and flat-leaf parsley), one tablespoon chopped shallots and one-half teaspoon minced garlic and pulse until smooth and shiny. Pour the marinade into a resealable plastic bag and add a 1 1/2-pound pork tenderloin (or a similar amount of boneless, skinless turkey breasts to celebrate the season), rubbing the marinade into the meat. Refrigerate at least six hours or, preferably, overnight, then grill over medium heat, about eight to 10 minutes per side.

Serve the pork (or poultry) with Inniskillin Okanagan Reserve Series 2005 Pinot Noir ($18 Canadian), a lush Pinot with intense cherry aromas and well-integrated spicy oak. Ripe raspberry flavors come out on the palate, leading to a long, lingering finish.

We conclude our ode to autumn with an elegant, yet simple cheese course. Caramelized Brie with Hazelnuts is an adaptation of a recipe from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (Crossing Press, 1994). Arrange a 4 1/2-ounce wheel of ripe Brie on a serving dish. Blend a quarter cup granulated sugar with two tablespoons water in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves.

Without stirring, swirl the pan occasionally until the mixture turns golden brown, about five minutes. Immediately pour the sugar over the Brie. Quickly arrange eight whole hazelnuts (skins removed) on the Brie and let rest five minutes, so the caramel hardens. Serve within 30 minutes by cracking the topping with a knife and serving with fresh apple or pear wedges.

Pair the sweet/earthy cheese with Bookwalter Winery 2006 Riesling ($16) from the Columbia Valley. This outstanding Riesling is exceptionally fragrant, its ripe melon and sweet pear flavors backed by racy acidity. Neither dry nor sweet, the wine both complements and offsets the sugar-crusted Brie and forms the fitting finale for any fall feast.

BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 17 years. She is the author of seven books including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (John Wiley & Sons, October 2007). Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Tips for crossing borders with wine I’m planning to take a wine-touring trip to the Okanagan in British Columbia this fall. I’ve been told that my spouse and I can bring back only two bottles of wine. Is that correct?

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hat you’ve been told is both partly correct and largely misleading. But it’s a common misconception.

Many of the winery folks I talked with on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands of British Columbia believed exactly that when I was visiting this summer.

In fact, each U.S. resident can bring back one liter of wine without paying any duty on it after a trip abroad — whether it’s as close as British Columbia or as far away as New Zealand.

The key to that is that little four-letter word, duty. You can bring more wine back, but you must be prepared to pay duty on it, which according to materials provided by U.S. Customs and Border Protection, is 3 percent of the wine’s value, plus 21 to 31 cents in excise tax on a 750-milliliter bottle, the standard size in the U.S. and Canada and the rough equivalent of the old “fifth” of alcohol, or 24 ounces, which is four-fifths of a quart. Sparkling wine will run you 67 cents per bottle.

If you have to pay duty, you must either pay cash in U.S. dollars, write a personal check for the exact amount drawn on a U.S. bank (which will require photo ID) or use a traveler’s check for no more than $50 above the amount owed.

Some locations will accept a credit card. That information is straight out of U.S. Customs and Border Protection Publication No. 0000-00512, which you can download online at: help.cbp.gov/cgi-bin/customs.cfg/php/enduser/stdalp.php.

With that aside, some advice about crossing the border with wine. Always be upfront about the amount you’re carrying. Do not lie, ever. The folks at the border are usually courteous, often are trying to handle a crowd and are doing a job that’s important to us all.

If you’re bringing into the United States what the officer at the border deems “unusual quantities,” you may be required to obtain an import permit before the alcohol will be released to you. So don’t expect to bring back several cases, unless you have contacted your port of entry ahead of time and made prior arrangements to bring the wine back.

And, “be aware that state laws might limit the amount” you can bring back, the customs pamphlet warns.

Now, what will happen in actual practice when you cross the border with say eight or 10 bottles of wine that you and your spouse decided were just too good not to bring some home? Chances are, the customs officer will smile, wish you a nice day and wave you along.

That’s exactly what happened a couple years ago when my wife and I crossed the border headed home from the Okanagan. The officers smiled, seemed to ponder a 12

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moment, then wished us a happy Fourth of July and waved us through.

I’ve crossed the border a number of times with more than two liters, always declared it and all but once that’s been my experience. That one time, which was years ago, I was directed to pull over, went inside and paid duty on a few bottles of sparkling wine. As I recall, it was less than $5.

And I suspect that’s one of the reasons why most folks I have talked with have been waved right through.

Considering the time and effort to collect the money and process the forms, it’s not cost effective. And there are more urgent concerns in a post-9/11 world than a few bottles of wine and a few bucks.

So, enjoy your trip to the Okanagan. The hard part will be deciding just what to bring back. There are scores of wonderful wines to discover, from stunningly crisp whites to lush reds to ice wines so delicious you’ll wish you could lick out the last few drops lingering in the bottle.

Wine words: basket press

With wine grape harvest upon us, you’re almost certain to encounter this phrase as you tour Northwest wine country this fall.

The basket press remains a common sight at the region’s wineries, although they’re being replaced with the more modern and effective bladder press. And if you’ve been wine touring for a while but haven’t exactly noticed what a basket press is, it looks like a bass drum laid on its side, with wooden slats a couple feet high forming its cylindrical body. A screw-driven disk crushes the bunches of grapes to squeeze out their juice.

The bladder press, which uses a hydraulically pressurized rubber bladder, has become the preferred way to crush wine grapes because it is claimed not to crack the grape seeds and skins and thus does not squeeze out as many of those bitter tannins that many wine drinkers are not so fond of.

Manufacturers also claim the bladder press is faster to operate in the load, crush and clean cycle of pressing the grapes, taking two-thirds or more less time than the traditional basket press.

Considering how squeezed for time winemakers are during harvest and how rapidly one variety can follow another as the harvest moves from the earliest-maturing whites to the later-hanging reds and late harvest and ice wine whites, it’s no surprise that wineries will trade their dollars for efficiency.

KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 37 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com.

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urban sips

BY TERI CITTERMAN

I’ll take Potent Potables for $400, Alex

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hile navel gazing one afternoon, it occurred to me, that I’ve lived my life — both literally and figuratively — in the context of the game show Family Feud.

Since I was about 8, I’ve identified answers to hypothetical questions that I might be asked if ever the unlikely day came that I was to appear on the game show. Flawed logic is already in play because you have to have a family willing to work as a team toward winning a common prize. We Cittermans are much more of a divide and conquer (each other) clan, which makes us better candidates for The Weakest Link. Dear family, would you like cheese with your whine?

That said, it’s no surprise that traveling with me is no simple feat, and on a recent trip through Walla Walla with a couple of other couples, I hurled the challenge of evaluating wines through game show speak — and it played out.

First up: DaMa Wines 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sitting behind the Dating Game partition alongside two other candidates, I like what I hear from this full-bodied, yet restrained voice behind the curtain. Its quiet confidence exudes a soft sensibility over everyday courseness — a mix of silk and classic tobacco, mahogany wainscoting and men’s club leather.

But what’s that tone of Broadway musical and fashion trendspotter? A powerful surge comes over this masculine strength that could crush you like a grape. With its still subtle but obligatory edge, it begs you to read between the lines — I concluded the adoption to an overbearing mother and absent father — left it reflective of what luxurious brocade bedding and lots of pillows really does mean for its future.

Speaking of what’s behind the curtain, Sleight of Hand’s NV blend, The Spellbinder, ensures that what you see may be far from what you get.

With a slight verge below the surface, upon opening it’s tight, but not for too long. It presents dark and herbal, and you know there’s more going on. Suddenly, in an almost unnatural comfort, it relaxes and opens up — becomes your new best friend and is spilling waaaay too much information. Your head is reeling and rippling ... then pondering. Is it really a Newlywed Game myth? Or when Bob Eubanks asked the brides: “Where specifically is the weirdest place you ever had the urge to make whoopee?” Did she really give the rumored answer?

Believe it or not! aMaurice 2005 Syrah is self-described as the gentle giant, but what we’re really talking about here is the single trombone in the woodwind section.

Subtle oak, dark fruit mix with spice and some of that uhh uhh uhh (head shake, finger wave). This wine permeates the latest tendency of game/reality shows like 14

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American Idol and Fear Factor — people will do and eat anything for money. This Syrah is the sensuality of the cha cha meets the funk of disco meets the “in for the kill” power of the pasodoble performed on So You Think You Can Dance.

Look like an angel but dance like a stripper, I say. You’re sure to be a big winner in someone’s eyes.

We opened an Owen Roe 2006 O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir, a stray from Walla Walla.

It combines juicy berries with campfire smoke and spice and woodsy violet. It’s a mouthful of smooth sleekness unto its own. A charismatic leader, this wine rises to any occasion, steps up to the podium and, in sudden death, provides the No. 1 answer to the gnawing question: “Name something you do in your car when you hope no one is looking.” There is no stuttering, no stammering — but rather, sharp as a blade with one simple blow. The match is won, and the team advances to the finals to win the big money. And did I mention that the Price is Right on this bottled beauty at just $17?

And then there’s the Dunham Cellars 2004 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — happy sigh, love and contentment.

With its clove and cassis mixed with vanilla-y tobacco, a conjured moment reminiscent of my underage Goth nightclub hopping comes to light: a clove cigarette dangling from an extender pursed between my black-rimmed lips (who did I think I was)!

Don’t be confused, however, because this Cab is nothing of the sort. It walks a fine line of being dismissive but not uncouth, confident but not haughty — and slightly mystifying. It learns quickly that it is lonely at the top. But nonetheless, this wine is stalwart and fervent. And as the ruler of its domain, like the tormented British game show wench, Anne Robinson, (not to be confused with the American wench Ann Coulter) propounds a rhetorical interrogation: Who’s headlights are constantly on dim? Who is as useful as an ashtray on a bicycle? And finally terminates the innocent with a greater tongue-lashing followed by, “You are the Weakest Link – Goodbye!”

On that note, for those inspired to get 15 minutes of fame, sway four family members to join your team and you too can be a contestant on Family Feud by calling 323-762-8467.

(Yes, I had to look it up.)

Cheers!

With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She has promoted a number of Washington wineries and is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books.

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great things to do

in Northwest wine country

By ERIC DEGERMAN Most winemakers rested up during the Labor Day weekend because they know that harvest and crush means about 60 straight days of work.

See, the wine industry is not always that glamorous. Unless you are an athlete, musician, singer or performing artist of another sort, few folks are all that interested in watching you work.

Many of the following suggestions touch on visiting Northwest wineries during this busiest time of the wine season.

So if the tasting room is short-staffed or the winemaker doesn’t have time to talk, perhaps you can understand.

In the meantime, buy some of their wine or buy them a cup of coffee.

They’ve been known to drink beer, too.

1

Well beyond cheddar. Beecher’s Handmade Cheese at Seattle’s Pike Place Market is holding class.

It’s called “Cheese 101: Introduction to Artisan Cheese” and incorporates wine pairing. Learn firsthand about different types of cheese, the history of artisan cheese and the cheesemaking process.

Sessions last 2 1/2 hours and are scheduled Sept. 25, Oct. 23 and Nov. 13. Cost is $50. Register at beechershandmadecheese.com.

A great way to get fresh news on the cheese industry is by checking the Pacific Northwest Cheese Project’s Web site at pnwcheese.typepad.com. There,

you can find links to more than 60 artisan cheesemakers from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho.

Earlier this month, there was a profile on Oregon’s newest licensed cheesemaker — Mookie Moss of Siskiyou Crest Goat Dairy in Jacksonville. It’s ironic that a guy running a goat farm has a nickname that starts with “Moo.” Anyway, the next major event being promoted on the site is The Wedge. It’s scheduled Oct. 6 at the Portland Farmers Market.

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Lunch, wine and harvest. It’s not exactly a winemaker lunch, but this Sept. 30 event gets you inside vintner extraordinaire Mike Januik’s new winery in Woodinville. He brings in chef Charles Walpole, who conducts a cooking glass that goes soup to braised meats using Oxbow Farms ingredients. There’s lunch with Novelty Hill and Januik wines, then a tour of Januik’s new facility during crush. Cost is $90. Reservation required. Call 425481-5502 or visit noveltyhilljanuik.com.

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More than OK in the Okanagan. The 27th annual Okanagan Fall Wine Festival is a tradition that’s well known across Canada, but perhaps not so well below the 49th parallel — despite its perennial ranking among the “Top 100 Events in North America” from the American Bus Association. That ranking first came in 1996.

There are more than 150 events among the 70-plus wineries from Sept.

28 to Oct. 7, and the lineup ranges from auctions, concerts, seminars, tastings and winemaker dinners.

For example, the savvy folks at Vincor created a tour of their “Great Estates of the Okanagan.” They guide you on a VIP bus tour of Sumac Ridge, Nk’Mip, Inniskillin Okanagan, the new tasting gallery at Jackson Triggs and the majes-

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W I N E C O U N T RY tic setting at Hawthorne Mountain.

Taste your way through the lineup, enjoy lunch at Nk’Mip and then a fivecourse winemaker dinner at Cellar Door Bistro. Contact Jennifer Park at jennifer@sumacridge.com or 250-4940451 for information.

Several wineries also offer lunch and great views of the lake, such as Gray Monk, Quails’ Gate and Summerland near Kelowna, and Lake Breeze on the Naramata Bench north of Penticton. Call the Okanagan Wine Festivals at 250-861-6654 or go to thewinefestivals.com.

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Drink in the art. More than 30 wineries in the Yakima Valley participate in the annual Savor the Art exhibition that runs the month of October. Mediums on display include bronze sculpture, fiber, glass, jewelry, silk, oil, photograph, watercolor and woodworking. Wine is the common thread, and the culinary creations of Frank Magana (Picazo Catering) will be featured Oct. 6 at the kickoff gala and auction at the showpiece Terra Blanca in Benton City. That ticket is $40. For information, call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

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By Joe, he’s on the radio.

“Hollywood” Joe Dobbes has a face for TV, but one of the Northwest’s most talented winemakers is using amplitude modulation to promote the Oregon wine industry. This spring, Portland’s KXL 750 AM launched Dobbes’ “Oregon Vine Time.” Segments run 1-2 p.m. each Saturday with co-host Brian Bushlach. Dobbes, based in Dundee, interviews other winemakers, previews events and talks about weather influences on the vintage. Football broadcasts have sidelined the show until October, but you can catch the library of his show at winebyjoe.com/oregonvinetime.html.

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Copious amounts of Cornucopia.

Arguably the biggest party in the Northwest wine world is Cornucopia, a shoulder-season event created for Whistler, B.C. It’s been

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expanded to five days, running Nov. 812, and the marquee event — Crush!

Grand Gala Tasting — is offered on two nights.

The long weekend is loaded with wine and food events, seminars, tastings and workshops. Presenters include Shayn Bjornholm of the Washington Wine Commission, noted Canadian wine writer Anthony Gismondi and chef Julian Bond — a past Wine Press Northwest Match Maker.

Packages, which include lodging and a ducat to Crush, start at $189.

You might say, “Get out,” but it’s possible to win tickets to the event by playing the “Spin the Bottle” game on the Web site. Call 1-800-WHISTLER or go to whistlercornucopia.com.

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Clearing out the cellar. The Purple Cafe and Wine Bar in Kirkland — one of three sister properties — will be selling some of its wines and restaurant stemware at “garage sale”

prices. Wine director Christene Larsen, a past Match Maker participant, will be there to say, “Deal” or “No deal.” It’s a one-day event, Nov. 10, and runs 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Call 425-828-3772 or go to thepurplecafe.com.

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Taste the Northwest in Portland.

The Northwest Food and Wine Festival, in its second year, moves to Portland’s “Glass Palace,” a k a Memorial Coliseum.

Tina Curry spices up the main floor this year with more than 400 wines and 50 restaurants, including a seafood bar and chocolate fountain. It re-creates some of the flavor of the early days of Taste Washington by alternating wine and restaurant booths for pairing experimentation. It runs Nov. 10-11.

Cost is $65-$95. Call 800-422-0251 or go to nwfoodandwinefestival.com.

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Walla Walla goes to Boise.

Brandon Bruins oversees the wine lists at two Boise restau-

rants — Andrae’s and the Red Feather Lounge — and there’s no hiding his love affair with Walla Walla wines. The feeling must be mutual.

On Nov. 16-17, Andrae’s plays host to the inaugural Walla Walla En Primeur. Ten of the top vintners in the Walla Walla Valley will bring barrel samples and sell futures during an afternoon trade show format. At night, they star in the WWEP winemaker dinners.

Tasting tickets are $30 per day. Buck up to $125 for one of the dinners.

Sales are limited to 60 per day for the tasting and 30 per night for dinner.

Call Andrae’s at 208-385-0707 for ducats.

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A silver Thanksgiving in the Willamette Valley. The heart of Oregon’s wine country celebrates its 25th annual Wine Country Thanksgiving on Nov. 23-25. It began with buds — nine wineries — and has since blossomed to 120 within an hour’s drive of Portland. Sample food, art, live music and wine from 11-5 p.m. over the course of three days. In many instances, you can meet the winemaker.

Call 503-646-2985 to request a touring map and guide or visit www.willamettewines.com.

Several wineries in Idaho also will be open and celebrating that weekend, including Hells Canyon, Indian Creek and Sawtooth. So will the Yakima Valley folks.

It gets a bit colder in the Spokane area, so those wineries stage their holiday festival the week before Thanksgiving. Walla Walla holds its Holiday Barrel Tasting on Dec. 1-2.

Our Thanksgiving weekend is marked in British Columbia as Grey Cup weekend — the Canadian Football League’s version of the Super Bowl. Much of the country and, come to find out, some wineries shut down early on Grey Cup Sunday. Particularly if the B.C. Lions have a chance this year to keep the cup donated by Earl Grey in 1909.

What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

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W I N E C O U N T RY

September 29-30 Catch the Crush, Tri-Cities, Wash. Annual harvest celebration. Call 866360-6611 or go to columbiavalleywine.com.

28-Oct. 7 Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. More than 150 events over 10 days. Call 250-861-6654 or go to thewinefestivals.com.

October 1-31 Savor the Art, Yakima Valley, Wash. Artists are paired with Yakima Valley and Red Mountain wineries. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

5-14 Lake Chelan Crush, Lake Chelan, Wash. Ten days of a “berry to bottle” fest in Washington’s emerging wine-producing region. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com 6 Taste of the Harvest, Caldwell, Idaho. This event at Albertson College helps fund scholarships for migrant children. Call 208-459-5011 or go to albertson.edu.

6-7 Wine by the River, Bend, Ore. This festival focuses on Northwest wine, cuisine and music. Call 541-383-3910 or go to www.winebytheriver.com.

12 Entwine, Walla Walla, Wash. This auction at the Marcus Whitman Hotel supports Walla Walla arts, wine and education. Call 509-527-4275.

November 2 Gusto! Everett, Wash. Enjoy this fund-raiser for the Everett Community College Foundation. Call 425-388-9535 or go to everettcc.edu/gusto.

2 Epicurian Delight, Spokane, Wash. This annual gala benefits the Inland Northwest Blood Center. Call 509-232-4567 or go to epicureandelight.org.

2 Walla Walla Valley Wine Auction, Walla Walla, Wash. Annual fund-raiser for Planned Parenthood of Walla Walla. Call 509-386-2757.

3 Taste of the Peninsula, Port Angeles, Wash. Inaugural event features Olympic Peninsula wines. Call 360-452-9244 or go to ccfymca.org.

8-12 Whistler’s Cornucopia, Whistler, B.C. Whistler’s annual extravaganza of Northwest wine and cuisine. Go to whistlercornucopia.com.

9-10 ¡Salud!, Dundee and Portland. This annual Pinot Noir auction benefits Oregon’s vineyard workers. Call 503-681-1850 or go to saludauction.org.

10 PONCHO International Wine Auction for the Arts, Seattle. An annual fund-raiser for Seattle area arts organizations. Call 206-623-6233 or go to poncho.org.

10-11 Northwest Wine & Food Festival, Portland. Celebrate wine and food at Memorial Coliseum. Call 800-422-0251 or go to nwfoodandwinefestival.com.

10-12 Passport Wine Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The North Sound Wineries’ annual fall wine-touring event. Go to northsoundwineries.org.

16-17 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Pasco, Wash. One of the largest wine festivals in the Northwest. Call 509-547-4849 or go to tricitieswinefestival.com.

16-18 Holiday Wine Festival, Spokane, Wash. A weekend of wine, art and food.

Call 509-363-1353 or go to spokanewineries.net.

17 Seaside Downtown Wine Walk, Seaside, Ore. Seaside businesses pair up with regional wineries. Call 503-717-1914 or go to seasidedowntown.com.

23-25 Wine Country Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley, Ore. The wineries of the Willamette Valley celebrate the holidays. Go to willamettewines.com.

23-25 Thanksgiving in Wine Country, Yakima Valley, Wash. Tour Washington’s oldest wine region. Go to wineyakimavalley.org.

December 1-2 St. Nicholas Day Open House, Woodinville, Wash. Woodinville wineries open their doors for this passport-style event. Go to woodinvillewinecountry.com.

1-2 Holiday Barrel Tasting, Walla Walla, Wash. Enjoy a weekend visiting the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley. Go to wallawallawine.com or call 509-526-3117.

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sun valley, idaho

Sun Valley playground warms up to NW wines

By ERIC DEGERMAN

T

his is no snow job. There’s actually a Northwest wine movement beginning to dawn in Sun Valley, which is another reason to spend a weekend in the Idaho Rockies.

While the cult of California remains strong, regional wines have established a foothold thanks in part to longtime Ketchum chef Scott Mason and winemaker Steve McCarthy.

In fact, Mason, a native of Eugene, Ore., helped spearhead the inaugural Sun Valley Food and Wine Festival this year.

Five Idaho wineries poured there, led by McCarthy and his Frenchman’s Gulch.

It was held in early June as a new shoulder-season event for Sun Valley and raised awareness that there’s much more than snow to this ski resort town that’s a 2 1/2-hour drive from Boise.

Union Pacific Railroad money spawned the development in 1935 as Averell Harriman sought to create America’s first European-style ski resort. The site prompted development of the ski lift and allows for an alpine season that runs from Thanksgiving to the end of April.

This fall, snow will be an especially welcome sight as fire threatened the valley.

By Christmas 1936, Sun Valley Lodge was open and began to attract Hollywood stars. Ernest Hemingway stayed there in 1939 to finish For Whom the Bell Tolls. He took his life in 1961 at his secluded Ketchum home. He is buried in Ketchum, and there’s a festival each September in his honor.

Outdoor opportunities lured Hemingway and other athletic individuals to work, live and retire in this beautiful community, and residents remain slender despite the creative culinary scene. Sadly, the number of restaurants continues to dwindle because the wealthy often fly in personal cooks rather than support local chefs.

Indoor options include the many boutique shops — 12 alone at the Sun Valley Village — and more than a dozen art galleries in Ketchum that welcome walk-in patrons and guided tours.

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MATT LEIDECKER/SUN VALLEY CHAMBER & VISITORS BUREAU

Sun Valley and the nearby Sawtooth Mountains offer great hiking in addition to winter skiing and year-round activities, lodging and cuisine.

There’s also the Sun Valley Performing Arts Center, the Ketchum Ski and Heritage Museum and the Sun Valley Wine Auction.

After the snow, golf is an option and there are three courses in the area — the Sun Valley Resort course designed

by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.; Elkhorn Golf Club, which is open to the public after 2 p.m.; and the challenging nine-hole Bigwood at Thunder Spring.

Hiking, cycling, mountain biking via chairlift, horseback riding and river rafting are among the more active choices There’s also the summer concert series staged at the base of a Bald Mountain.

Headliners this year included Collective Soul, Chris Isaak and Kenny Loggins.

Remarkably, there’s year-round outdoor ice skating at the Sun Valley Lodge, and world-class skaters perform outdoors. If you make proper arrangements, their shows can be enjoyed from a deck off one of the second-floor hotel rooms.

As the likes of Michelle Kwan and Sasha Cohen leave to applause and receive their customary bouquet of roses, you can raise a toast with a glass of rosé.

A pleasant selection of Northwest

wine awaits downstairs in the famous Duchin Lounge. In fact, Walla Walla wines are making strong inroads on restaurant wine lists. It doesn’t hurt that Claude Guigon, assistant general manager of Sun Valley Resort and its 13 restaurants, owned a vineyard in Pasco, Wash., for several years.

He’s a bit jealous of those who live in wine country, Guigon said.

Lodging: There are dozens of options and deals in the summer, but they dry up when the powder flies. That’s when friends and families look for rentals.

The visitors bureau lists 37 resorts, hotels, motels, B&Bs, RV parks and campgrounds. First-time visitors should consider the classy Sun Valley Lodge for its staffing, transportation services and history. It’s easy to wile away several minutes walking down the halls that are home to photographs of famous actors and championship skiers.

Food: Ketchum Grill is a past Match Maker of Wine Press Northwest, and Mason’s wine list is an award winner. A number of locals view his cuisine as the best in the valley.

The rustic Trail Creek Cabin at Sun W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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sun valley, idaho Valley Resort celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, and Washington wines make up half of the list. The meatloaf is delicious. For breakfast, there’s an amazing assortment of pastry and egg dishes served with imagination at The Kneadery. Seating is cozy. A backup plan is in the Sun Valley Lodge at Gretchen’s, where you can sit outside.

Wineries: Within walking distance of the Ketchum Grill is Frenchman’s Gulch. Steve McCarthy focuses on highend reds at his boutique winery and seeks out fruit from some of the top vineyards in Washington. Mac’s winery is at 5,750 feet elevation, the highest in the Northwest.

Anthony Maratea is the other winemaker in the Sun Valley/Ketchum area, and his Phantom Hill label can be found on wine lists. There is no tasting room.

He crafts his Pinot Noirs in Oregon with longtime friend Gary Andrus, founder of Archery Summit and owner of Gypsy Dancer Estates. The pals have partnered in the A&G Estate Vineyard, and

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PACIFIC NORTHWEST

bottles of Phantom Hill Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dutifully carry the Dundee Hills AVA. From June through September, the Ketchum Town Square stages a farmers market, and representatives of Carmela Vineyards in Glenns Ferry pour their wines at a booth. Glenns Ferry is less than two hours away on the Snake River, and Carmela Vineyards also is home to a restaurant, RV park and golf course.

More info:

Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission: 888-223-9463, idahowines.org Sun Valley Ketchum Chamber & Visitors Bureau: 866-305-0408, visitsunvalley.com Sun Valley Resort: 800-786-8259, sunvalley.com Idaho Division of Tourism Development: 800-847-4843, visitidaho.org ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press

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WINE NEWS

Ste. Michelle, Antinori buy Stag’s Leap For Ste. Michelle Wine Estates boss Ted Baseler, acquiring one of California’s greatest wineries was among the most exciting moments of his 23 years with Washington’s largest wine company.

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In late July, Ste. Michelle announced it partnered with Marchese Antinori of Italy to purchase Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars of Napa Valley for $185 million.

Ste. Michelle will be the majority owner.

“We’re not in acquisition mode,” said

Baseler, president and CEO of Washington’s oldest wine company.

“But when you have a unique opportunity, you have to look at it.”

In this case, it was a matter of the seller picking the buyer.

Stag’s Leap founder Warren Winiarski approached Antinori owner Piero Antinori earlier this year about buying Stag’s Leap, and Antinori said he had a U.S. partner he wanted to include: Ste. Michelle.

Antinori’s family has been producing wine in Italy since the 1380s and coowns Col Solare on Red Mountain with Ste. Michelle.

At the April grand opening of Col Solare’s new winery near West Richland, Wash., Antinori took Baseler aside and said he had a proposition. This led to Winiarski inviting Ste. Michelle executives to Napa and him visiting many of Ste. Michelle’s facilities, including Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Columbia Crest in Paterson, Northstar in Walla Walla and Col Solare.

“He selected us more than we selected him,” Baseler said with a chuckle.

For California, the sale of Stag’s Leap is a changing of the guard at one of its most venerable wineries. In 1976, the 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon finished first in the nowlegendary “Judgment of Paris” tasting, a competition between top wines from France and California, staged by a British wine merchant. When the results were revealed, the wine world suddenly was forced to take California seriously.

“I think there is no doubt that Napa would not be anywhere close to where it is if it weren’t for the 1976 tasting,” Baseler said. “And Washington would be even less relevant.”

The acquisition of Stag’s Leap follows on the heels of the 2006 purchase of Erath Vineyards, one of Oregon’s oldest, largest and most important wineries. Baseler stressed that, again, it was an opportunity that was presented to Ste. Michelle.

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WINE NEWS

Constellation gets new CEO FAIRPORT, N.Y. — Constellation Brands, Inc., the world’s largest conglomerate in the wine industry, replaced its CEO effective July 26.

Rob Sands, 49, took over for his brother, Richard Sands, who will remain as chairman of the board.

Richard Sands, 56, spent the past 14 years as CEO. The most recent series of acquisitions during his era included Vincor International (2006) and Robert Mondavi Corp., (2004).

Constellation’s galaxy of holdings includes 10 wineries in the Pacific Northwest.

In Washington, it owns Columbia Winery in Woodinville, Covey Run in Zillah and Hogue Cellars in Prosser.

Constellation also controls Ste. Chapelle, the largest winery in Idaho.

And Constellation’s reach in British Columbia is dominant with Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards, Inniskillin Okanagan, Jackson-Triggs, Nk’Mip, Osoyoos LaRose and Sumac Ridge.

“After 28 years with the company, and the last 14 as chief executive officer, it is time for me to pass the CEO baton, and Rob is the right choice to maintain continuity in Constellation’s ongoing pursuit of true growth and harvesting opportunities to improve return on invested capital, earnings and free cash flow,” Richard Sands said.

The company has more than 250 brands in its portfolio, sales in approximately 150 countries and operates approximately 60 wineries, distilleries and distribution facilities.

It is the largest wine producer in the world; the largest wine company in the U.S. based upon sales dollar value, the largest wine company in the U.K., Australia and Canada; the second largest wine company in New Zealand; the largest beer importer and marketer in the United States through its Crown Imports joint venture with Mexico’s Grupo Modelo; and the third largest spirits company in the United States.

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WINE VIEWS

Omnipresent Two Vines easy on pocketbook By ‘BARGAIN’ BOB WOEHLER I have found some inexpensive wines for the masses that almost anyone can find, whether it’s at a truck stop in Salem, a supermarket in Boise or the corner grocery store in Bellingham.

The Columbia Crest Two Vines line of wines offers a lineup tasty and true to variety, yet at ridiculously low prices — typically in the $5 to $7 range.

It is the No. 1 line of wines in the Pacific Northwest at 1 million cases annually. Consequently, these wines are widely available and often at sales prices.

Make no mistake, the Two Vines wines are rich and full bodied, often showing the virtues of other labels that cost two to 10 times more.

They are great wines to have around for everyday drinking or for a big party.

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In fact, the name “Two Vines” comes from the method of bilateral trellising, which positions grape clusters to receive ideal sun exposure. The name was chosen to acknowledge the care Columbia Crest applies to every step of the winemaking process, I recently spotted the Two Vines Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon each for $6 a bottle at a Fred Meyer.

2004 Chardonnay, $7-$10: Smooth and rich, yet not overoaked. Forward fruit of pears and citrus with balanced flavors and a creamy palate.

2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $6-$8: Well balanced and fruity. Classic herb aromas with hints of freshly mowed hay, which blend with flavors of bright apples and citrus. Great with oysters.

2006 Gewürztraminer, $6-$8: Wonderful bright fruit aromas and classic lychee and dried apple flavors. Refreshing and juicy.

2006 Riesling, $6-$8: You have an entire orchard here thanks to aromas and flavors of apples, pears and peaches with just the right amount of sweetness. And yet its tart finish complements a wide variety of tasty dishes.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $7-$10: Think smooth and chocolate. A hint of oak is set off by cherries and soft tannins, finishing with hints of cocoa.

2002 Merlot, $7-$10: An expressive and smooth Merlot with intense blackberry and raspberry flavors. The finish is soft and velvety.

2004 Shiraz, $7-$10: This rich, jammy version of Syrah is marketed to take advantage of the popularity of Aussie Shirazes. Classic black pepper and black cherry aromas lead to an ever so supple and tasty mouth feel.

BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.

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WINE NEWS

California land trust buys Oregon vineyard A California-based real estate investment group has purchased Farmer Road Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley for a reported $1.27 million.

The Vintage Wine Trust Inc., of San Rafael made the announcement Aug. 9.

It is the group’s first acquisition outside of California.

Farmer Road Vineyard spans 45 acres, 37.5 acres of which are planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Five additional acres are scheduled to be planted in spring 2008.

The property is leased to A to Z Wineworks, Oregon’s largest winery.

A to Z is controlled by Bill Hatcher, former general manager of Domaine Drouhin Oregon, and ex-Archery Summit winemaker Sam Tannahill.

“Farmer Road Vineyard has an excellent reputation for quality grapes, and we believe this transaction is a good foundation for our further investments in Oregon,” said Joseph W. Ciatti, Vintage Wine Trust CEO. Vintage Wine Trust is the first REIT in the country to focus entirely on vineyards, wineries and other wine related assets.

Covey Run winemaker takes over at Columbia Kerry Norton has been promoted to head winemaker of Columbia Winery in Woodinville, Wash. Norton was winemaker for Covey Run Winery for eight years.

Both wineries are owned by Constellation Brands.

David Lake, winemaker for Columbia Winery since 1979, retired last year. Lake pioneered Syrah, Pinot Gris and vineyard-designated wines in Washington.

Norton was winemaker for Eola Hills Wine Cellars in Rickreall, Ore., before moving to Washington.

Kate Michaud, a U.K. native, was named winemaker for Covey Run. She has worked in Europe, New Zealand, California and, most recently, at Canoe Ridge in Walla Walla.

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WINE NEWS

Oregon raises funds for wine institute There are plans to open a new institute dedicated to Oregon’s wine industry before 2008.

Nearly $1 million has been raised by state vintners to help fund the new Oregon State University Wine Institute.

Oregon State University in Corvallis plans to dedicate four to seven positions to the institute, which will have its own advisory board. The state legislature has allocated an additional $1 million to fund the new positions.

Money would be used to pay a director, assistant and expenses for five years. The institute would operate within the school’s agriculture department.

“It’s very significant,” said Ed King III of King Estate Winery. “It’s certainly the next logical step in the future of our wine industry.”

King pointed out that Chemeketa Community College in Salem has a twoyear viticulture and enology program but there’s no four-year degree program in the state.

Research into grape growing and winemaking in Oregon has been funded by a tonnage tax paid by Oregon wine producers and a tax on wine sales.

However, it has been hampered by limited funds contributed by industry and by budget cuts in recent years.

The movement has been led by David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyard; Jim Bernau, president and founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards; Kevin Chambers of Oregon Vineyard Supply; Earl Jones of Abacela Winery; and Ted Casteel of Bethel Heights Vineyard.

King said Gov. Ted Kulongoski has rounded up dollars and support.

Industry leaders expect to quickly raise the remaining funds because the first $1 million was contributed by only a few wineries.

There has not been a big push within Oregon to create a department of viticulture and enology at OSU because insiders don’t believe the state’s wine industry is ready to support such a program.

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WINE NEWS

Hogue Cellars celebrates 25th anniversary

By MARY HOPKIN Hogue Cellars started in a child’s playhouse in Mike Hogue’s backyard in Prosser and became one of the most recognized names in Washington wines.

The winery, now owned by Constellation Brands, celebrated its 25th anniversary this summer.

When brothers Mike and Gary Hogue launched Hogue Cellars, it was Washington’s 19th bonded winery.

Their father, Wayne Hogue, started hop farming in the Prosser area in 1944.

He gradually grew the family farm from 80 acres of hops to more than 1,700 acres of mixed crops, including apples, concord grapes and asparagus.

In 1974, Mike Hogue planted six acres of Riesling, which he sold to other wineries. Seven years later, Mike and a friend, Andy Markin, started mak-

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ing wine in Hogue’s daughter’s playhouse. The following year, Mike and Gary decided to start a winery. With a shoebox as a cash register, they sold $800 worth of wine at the Prosser Wine & Food Fair.

The brothers realized if they were going to be serious about the business, they needed expertise. They hired a marketing consultant from Seattle to help them with their business plan.

They initially thought they didn’t want to use the family name on the bottle, Gary said. “Farmers are not big braggers, and putting the Hogue name on it had self-promotion written all over it.” But the consultant told the brothers the Hogue farm had built a solid reputation — and they should use it.

Gary said the winery’s success was about being at the right place at the right time.

“Hogue is a product of timing, timing, timing and location, location, location,” he said. “We didn’t have anything to do with the great climate — and our father was the one who located us in the Yakima Valley.”

But it was the Hogue brothers who decided to make affordable, approachable wines that could be marketed beyond Washington. They built the family-owned business into a multimillion dollar winery producing more than 400,00 cases a year — and it paid off.

In 2001, they sold Hogue Cellars to Vincor International for $36.4 million.

Mike continued growing wine grapes for the winery and Gary stayed on doing sales and marketing.

Last year, Constellation Brands purchased Vincor for $1.5 billion.

Constellation sells more than 72 million cases of wine per year.

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WINE NEWS

New agency to oversee B.C. wineries A new government agency called the B.C. Wine Authority opened for business July 18.

The BCWA was created by the Ministry of Agriculture and Lands to oversee new standards referred to as

“Wines of Marked Quality Regulation.”

It will be charged with implementing newly enacted regulations for the provincial wine industry, as well as recommending changes.

The Vintners Quality Alliance, which

began in 1990 as part of the province’s Wine Act, will continue to exist and remain under the auspices of the B.C. Wine Institute.

“The B.C. Wine Institute and its winery-members are extremely proud of how the VQA program evolved and believe that the VQA standards have driven the positive, quality-directed growth of our industry,” said Scott Fraser, BC Wine Institute chairman.

“We believe that moving standards into a separate organization — independent of wineries themselves — that has enforcement powers will strengthen even more the credibility of the standards and overall serve consumers’ interests,” Fraser added.

It is crucial each winery in the province face the same regulations in order for “B.C.’s wine industry to floruish,” he said.

Standards will address winemaking and labeling. The mandatory level of ‘Wines of Marked Quality’ for all wineries does not include VQA certification as the VQA program will continue to be optional.

The B.C. Wine Institute will continue to operate as voluntary trade association charged with communications and marketing of VQA wines.

Members of the BCWI account for nearly 90 percent the province’s wine production. However, the institute reports that membership stands at 59 wineries — fewer than half of the province’s 136 wineries.

For more information, go to winebc.com.

Auction raises $1.95 million The 20th annual Auction of Washington Wine raised $1.95 million in August. The charity auction was held at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash.

The proceeds benefit Children’s Hospital in Seattle and the Washington Wine Education Foundation.

The top item was a Super Bowl package for two couples at $85,000 each. The item was sold three times.

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Washington could see record crop at 131,000 tons If the U.S. Department of Agriculture is correct, Washington will crush a record 131,000 tons of wine grapes this fall.

The record of 120,000 tons was recorded last year.

Typically, crop estimates are high and are based on a number of factors, including weather conditions and surveys of grape growers. They do not always take into account fruit being dropped early to help grapes ripen properly. Last year, Washington’s crop estimate was 123,000 tons.

Washington has seen a growth spurt in vineyard plantings the past three years, and some of these new vineyards will result in increased tonnage as they hit production age, which typically is three to five years.

An additional 11,000 tons could result in as many as 730,000 additional cases of wine in Washington. At the same time, the growth of producers has not slowed down, with the Washington Wine Commission reporting that more than 500 wineries now exist in the state.

Washington is No. 2 in America for wine grape production, behind California, which is estimated to crush 3.2 million tons of wine grapes this fall.

Wine ‘Legends’ honored The Legends of Washington Wine Hall of Fame in Prosser inducted several new members in July.

• John and Ann Williams and Jim and Pat Holmes pioneered wine grape growing on Red Mountain in the early ’70s when they launched Kiona Vineyards Winery and Ciel du Cheval Vineyard.

• Rob Griffin arrived in Washington in 1977 to make wine for Preston Premium Wines, then moved on to Hogue before launching Barnard Griffin.

• The late Sen. Max Benitz Sr. was a tireless proponent of the Washington wine industry in the state Legislature.

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BOOK REVIEWS

Books guide readers through grapes, auctions never be involved in a wine auction, you might be missing out on a whole lot of heart-pounding fun.

Longtime wine auctioneer Ursula Hermacinski has penned this book as a guide to show you the ins and outs of

wine auctions. It is loaded with fascinating information, including the history of wine auctions, classic wines to look for, research fundamentals and finding wines at charity auctions.

— Andy Perdue

“Through the Grapevine: An Illustrated Guide to Wine Grapes” by Candace Ann Frasher, Marquette Books, 2006, $13.

Candace Ann Frasher, a longtime wine educator based in Spokane, Wash., grew tired of searching for a book to provide students in her introductory wine classes.

So she developed her own. It’s approachable, inviting, informative and breezy at 59 pages, and it’s without pretense.

An especially helpful feature is the straight-forward suggestions for food pairings with each of the major grape varieties Frasher covers. For example, “fruits of the sea and Pinot Gris” is clever and easy to remember.

She enlisted talented Eastern Washington University students to create romanticized and sometimes whimsical illustrations of women, grapes and vineyards. The Syrah artwork portrays a lithe lady enjoying a glass while soaking in a bathtub by candlelight.

In the front of the book are endorsements from several well-known figures in the Northwest wine industry. Frasher can be reached at 509-954-4410 or WineABCs@yahoo.com.

— Eric Degerman “The Wine Lover’s Guide to Auctions: The Art & Science of Buying and Selling Wines” by Ursula Hermacinksi, SquareOne Publishers, 2007, $18.

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BOOK REVIEW

Gregutt makes case for Washington in new book “Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide”

by Paul Gregutt, University of California Press, 2007, $35.

Throughout his 20-plus years writing about Pacific Northwest wines for such publications as The Seattle Times, Wine Enthusiast and Seattle Homes & Lifestyles, Paul Gregutt has coauthored or contributed to a handful of books.

His name is on the cover of Northwest Wines: A Pocket Guide to the Wines of Washington, Oregon and Idaho (both editions), and he annually writes the Northwest section of Tom Stevenson’s Wine Report.

But this is the first time Gregutt’s name has appeared on the cover alone, and he could not be more pleased.

“I wanted to do a definitive book about Washington state,” he said. “I think Washington has reached a point where it stands alone. It’s not just a part of the Pacific Northwest. It’s

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a world-class wine region. This book sets out to make the case to the world that Washington is world class — and here’s why and here’s how.”

Gregutt’s new book does not pretend to be comprehensive. Instead, he focuses on 119 of the state’s wineries, placing them into four categories: The Leaders (the equivalent of Washington’s “First Growths”), The Specialists (the second tier, reliable producers), The Bench (not quite starters on Gregutt’s team, but they are moving up in skills) and The Rookies (up-and-coming wineries with five or fewer vintages behind them).

Additionally, Gregutt provides an excellent overview of the state’s winemaking history, the appellations, the grapes grown in Washington and the top vineyards.

No, not every winery is reviewed in this book. That would be folly, considering the speed with which the Washington wine industry has been growing for the past decade. Instead, he has sliced off a definitive group that will provide newcomers and veterans alike with plenty of information.

Washington Wines & Wineries is available Oct. 1.

— Andy Perdue

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Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining Celebrating the bounty of our region

BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

THE IDEA FOR MY SEVENTH BOOK, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia, did not come in a flurry, willy-nilly, like a lightning bolt, as with some of my other books.

Instead, it evolved over the course of the 17 years my husband, Spencer, and I have lived in Seattle, a tomato’s toss from the Pike Place Market.

We've learned the way our regional produce comes from the fields in a seasonal way, how the Copper River salmon run only during the late spring and summer, that grapes ripen in the warm sun just waiting for the optimum time for autumn harvest, while artisan cheeses made from the milk of contented cows are all inextricably linked.

During visits to the wine-producing regions in Washington, Oregon and British Columbia (and more recently, Idaho), we’ve watched the rise in sophistication in the varieties proSome of the duced and the wineries Northwest’s bounty, themselves. Those in the clockwise from bottom- know realize Northwest left: cider apples at wines are poised to take Merridale Estate Cidery on the world. on Vancouver Island; Once my literary agent fresh salmon for sale by sold Pacific Northwest members of the Nez Perce Tribe in Richland, Wining & Dining to my ediWash.; fresh herbs from tor at John Wiley & Sons Hainle Vineyards’ herb (an exciting day in my life!), garden in Peachland, I relied on the advice of B.C.; goat cheese aging leading food and wine proat Carmelis Goat fessionals to help me scout Cheese Artisan in out the Northwest’s most Kelowna, B.C.; grapes talented winemaker/cooks, being harvested at chefs and restaurateurs, Bitner Vineyards in artisanal and specialty-food Caldwell, Idaho; and freshly harvested laven- producers and bed-andder that is ready to breakfast inns as sources hang up and dry in for the recipes.

Naramata, B.C.

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Bing cherries are used in a marinade for a Cornish game hen recipe

by Kay Simon and Clay Mackey at Chinook Wines that is in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining.

During two years of research, Spencer and I put thousands of miles on “D2,” our trusty Land Rover. Jackie Johnston, the photographer of the book who also serves as Wine Press Northwest’s principal photographer and graphic designer, frequently accompanied us and often acted as navigator, leading us through the backroads in her sporty red Miata.

Research was a moving target. A new winery or destination restaurant opened or another wine region or appellation was named almost weekly. Nevertheless, I’ll forever cherish sweet memories of Spencer and me bopping down the highway, the local “oldies” station playing over the radio, as we searched out another enticing lead.

Look for my latest “baby” to be “birthed” and widely available in bookstores by its official publication date, Oct. 29, although pre-orders are available online at amazon.com: Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (John Wiley & Sons, $34.95)

WASHINGTON CHERISHING CHINOOK

SINCE 1983, KAY SIMON AND CLAY Mackey have been quietly going about their work as winemaker and grape grower respectively at Chinook Wines in Washington’s Yakima Valley. I met the couple well over a decade ago at a cooking class billed as “an afternoon with the winemaker.”

Class began with a glass of Chinook’s signature Sauvignon Blanc served with herb-flecked, home-cured cheese spread on yeasty, home-baked bread. Next came Cornish game hens steeped overnight in a heady mash of crushed Bing cherries and white wine vinegar. As I took my first bite of hen hot off the grill, along with a

More recipes and photos at: winepressnw.com/pairing On the following pages, you’ll get a sampling of the recipes and profiles in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, many of them exclusive to Wine Press Northwest.

They are all part of my portrait of — my love song, if you will — the ultimate in Northwest cuisine and wine.

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sip of Chinook Merlot, I marveled at the sweet explosion of tastes and textures — earthy, sweet, succulent.

I quickly realized that although Kay and Clay were passionate eaters and oenophiles, they were (refreshingly) neither food snobs nor cork dorks. I sensed they shared a style of cooking I hadn’t encountered in Seattle proper. For want of a better term, I deemed it “vineyard cooking.”

Vineyard cooking was simple — fresh fruits and vegetables of the season from Kay and Clay’s home garden or the local farmers market.

Asparagus cut the same day they ate it. Eastern Washington tomatillos chopped into salsa. Locally grown Bistro Maison in McMinnville, Ore., serves its guests an after-dinner treat of a bowl filled with hazelnuts.

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RECIPE Cream of Lentil Soup with Roasted Pears, Toasted Hazelnuts and Oregon Blue Cheese Crostini Variety: Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend Serves: 8

Carafe is the brainchild of the husband-and-wife team of Pascal Sauton (chef) and Julie Hunter (general manager), a dynamic duo that has cooked “from Paris to Portland.”

The Parisian-style bistro in downtown Portland features traditional bistro cooking in a lively, urban setting. The Art Deco ambience is warm and inviting; dinner and wine specials are scribbled on a mirror in the main dining room; and wine by the glass and other beverages are served in miniature carafes. You’ll enjoy Pascal’s hearty lentil soup paired with a crisp, clean Sauvignon BlancSemillon blend, which cuts through the earthiness of the lentils and the unctuousness of the toasted hazelnuts and pungent blue cheese.

2 1 1⁄4 1 1 1 8 2 1 3 1 1 1 ⁄2 2 4 8 4 ⁄4

1

tablespoons olive oil cups coarsely chopped celery stalks cup coarsely chopped leeks, white part only cup coarsely chopped carrots tablespoon chopped garlic cups water cups French green lentils (lentilles du Puy) bay leaf sprigs fresh thyme cup heavy whipping cream teaspoon kosher or sea salt, plus extra for seasoning teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning firm, ripe pears, such as Comice or Anjou, peeled, cored and each pear cut into 8 wedges tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature large slices baguette cut on the diagonal, about 1 inch thick ounces Oregon Blue Vein, Oregonzola or other good-quality blue cheese cup hazelnuts, toasted and skins rubbed off with a kitchen towel (Note: For directions on toasting nuts, see the Cook’s Hint, below)

eggplant, zucchini and sweet and hot peppers caramelized on the grill. Homegrown walnuts tossed into desserts and breads. Meats from their favorite meat market; sausage from the sausage maker;

1. To make the soup, in a stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the celery, leeks and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to color, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes more. Add the water, lentils, bay leaf and thyme, and stir well.

2. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are softened, 25 to 30 minutes.

Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Working in batches, pulse the soup in a food processor or blender until fairly smooth. Transfer back to the saucepan and stir in the cream, salt and pepper. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper if needed. Keep warm over low heat.

3. While the soup is simmering, preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly sprinkle the pear wedges with salt and pepper, arrange on a baking sheet, place in the oven and roast for 15 minutes, or until golden brown.

4. To make the crostini, spread the butter on the bread slices, arrange on another baking sheet, place in the oven and bake 2 to 3 minutes, or until they begin to color. Remove from the oven and spread the blue cheese evenly on each bread slice. Return to the oven for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the cheese starts to melt.

5. To serve, place two pear slices in each soup bowl. Ladle the soup over the pears. Sprinkle with hazelnuts and serve with a blue cheese crostini.

Cook’s Hint: To toast a small amount (1 cup or less) of nuts, heat them in a small, dry skillet over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until they begin to turn light brown in color and/or give off their aroma, shaking the pan back and forth often so they do not burn. Remove from the heat, cool and proceed as directed.

Carafe, 200 SW Market St., Portland, 503-248-0004, carafebistro.com

seafood from Seattle’s Mutual Fish Co. The couple treated the foods gently, often wrapping them in grape leaves or using grape or cherry wood to produce fragrant smoke for grilling. Chinook Wines — designed to complement, not to overpower —thoughtfully paired with each dish.

Since their first vintage 24 years ago, Kay and Clay have striven to hand-craft well-balanced, fruit-driven wines from grapes grown on their property as well as from leading Yakima Valley vineyards. With a 3,000-case annual output, divided

among eight wines and six varieties, Chinook easily fits within the “boutique winery” category, but retail prices are reasonable — just $12 to $22.

As an accomplished winemaker and passionate cook, Kay defines her food philosophy in the following words. “Food at Chinook is simple: homemade bread with no butter; lettuce from the garden with a vinaigrette dressing; meats off the grill; and wine ... the health aspects of which are always debated, but the mental-health aspects of which (we would argue) contribute to many relaxing, friendly episodes here at

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the winery and elsewhere, which makes everyone harmonious and glad to live in the Pacific Northwest.” ı Chinook Wines, Corner of Wine Country Road and Wittkopf Loop, Prosser, Wash. , 509-786-2725, chinookwines.com

OREGON A FA N TA S Y F U L F I L L E D : URBAN WINEWORKS

IN A BULKY, TERRA-COTTA-COLORED warehouse on the outskirts of Portland, I fulfilled one of my life’s fantasies: I blended my first bottle of wine.

The scene smacked of a highschool science project as I sat at the end of the long tasting bar at Urban Wineworks with a paper placemat, four small glass beakers and five wine glasses set in front of me.

The beakers were filled with equal measures of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah from Bridgeview Vineyards in Oregon and Abeja and Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla, Washington. Good raw materials to experiment with!

Megan, the helpful tasting room assistant, advised us to taste each of the samples to judge the way they might best be blended. The wines ranged from fresh-from-the barrel wild and wicked to prim and proper examples of each variety. Suddenly, wine blending didn’t seem as easy as I thought; how could I ever knit together such divergent components?

I began in what I reasoned was the most logical way — by blending equal portions of my two favorite samples, the Cabernet and Merlot.

The result was good but not great. I knew I could do better.

Since I preferred the taste of the Cabernet to the Merlot, my next blend consisted of 75 percent Cab/25 Merlot.

The resulting blend was much better than my first attempt but lacked a certain je ne sais quoi.

RECIPE “Blue Velvet” Salad with Raspberry-Balsamic Syrup Variety: Pinot Noir Serves six as an appetizer; two as a main course

Carmelis “Blue Velvet” is a fairly ripe, Camembert-style cheese with a blue-gray rind and a rich mushroom aroma and flavor. If you can’t find Carmelis cheese rounds, substitute your favorite Camembert or Brie. The sweet/sour flavors of aged balsamic vinegar and Pinot Noir in the lush berry syrup that’s drizzled over the greens and cheese pair perfectly with Pinot Noir in this easy-to-make, yet elegant appetizer, main-course salad or cheese/dessert course.

R A S P B E R RY- B A L S A M I C S Y R U P

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cups Pinot Noir tablespoons good-quality raspberry jam tablespoons good-quality aged balsamic vinegar cup fresh raspberries, blueberries, cranberries or sliced strawberries SALAD

1 large egg 1 - 1 1⁄2 cups fresh bread crumbs (Note: For instructions on how to make fresh bread crumbs, see the Cook’s Hint, below) 1 - 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 Carmelis Blue Velvet cheeses or two 6- to 8-ounce rounds of Camembert or Brie cheese 1 pound mesclun salad mix 1 - 2 tablespoons freshly grated orange zest 1. To make the Raspberry-Balsamic Syrup, place the Pinot Noir, jam, balsamic vinegar and berries in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook,

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stirring occasionally, until the liquid becomes syrupy and about 3/4 cup remains, 25 to 30 minutes. Watch carefully toward the end of the cooking process so the syrup doesn’t burn. Cool the syrup to room temperature, and use as described below or cover and refrigerate for up to two weeks.

2. Whisk the egg in a large bowl. Place the bread crumbs on a large plate. Line a plate large enough to hold both cheeses without crowding with several layers of clean, dry paper towels.

3. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. While the oil is heating, dip one of the cheeses into the egg, then into the bread crumbs, lightly coating the cheese all over with the crumbs. When the oil is hot, place the cheese in the skillet. Repeat this process with the remaining cheese. Cook, turning once, until the cheeses are golden brown on each side yet still slightly soft in the center, 2 minutes per side. Transfer to the paper towels to drain any excess oil.

4. Divide the baby greens among salad plates and divide the cheese over the greens. If serving as an appetizer, carefully cut the cheeses into individual wedges before transferring to the greens. Drizzle the cheese with the Raspberry-Balsamic Syrup, sprinkle with orange zest and serve immediately.

Cook’s Hint: To make unseasoned soft (fresh) bread crumbs, tear slices of white or whole-wheat bread into chunks and place them in a food processor. Process until crumbs of the desired size form. Fresh bread crumbs can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week; in the freezer, tightly wrapped, they keep for about 6 months.

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Next, I tried 25 milliliters of Cab to seven of Merlot and five of Syrah.

“Mmmm,” I said as I swirled and tasted. For the first time, I liked the result.

Those sitting around the bar agreed my latest blend was mellow and lush without being overly aggressive. I knew it would partner well with lots of different dishes.

Megan noted the blend, mixed a batch, transferred it into an elegant carafe, then placed a small tag around the neck of the carafe. The tag recorded the date the wine was bottled and the final blend: 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Merlot, 10 percent Syrah. I walked out of Urban Wineworks like the proud parent of a newborn, the carafe safely nestled in the crook of my arm.

Cheap thrills for $30, not to mention the experience of a lifetime. ı Urban Wineworks 407 NW 16th Ave., Portland, 503-226-9797, 888-GO-PINOT, urbanwineworks.com

IDAHO T H E N E X T WA L L A WA L L A : IDAHO WINEMAKERS

WITH 24 OPERATING WINERIES, 60 growers, 1,400 acres planted to grapes and wines characterized by a full, concentrated varietal character with high natural acidity and good overall balance, the Idaho wine industry is quickly making a name for itself in the Northwest and beyond.

Idaho wineries and winemakers are a varied lot. Overseen by head winemaker Chuck Devlin, Ste. Chapelle is considered the Idaho winery by many, since it is the oldest (established in 1976), the largest (with 160,000 cases per year, of which Riesling comprises more than 80,000 cases) and the most widely distributed nationwide.

While not nearly as great a behemoth as Ste. Chapelle, Sawtooth Winery is “large” by Idaho standards,

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Koenig Distillery and Winery turns fruit from its orchards into brandy.

some years producing upward of 19,000 cases. “I convinced my Dad to turn a pasture into a vineyard in 1982, when I was still a college student,” says winemaker Brad Pintler.

Brad started making wine in 1988; the winery has since grown from 15 acres to 300; and is part of the Corus Vineyards & Estates family.

Producing premium wines, potato vodka and classic eau-de-vie fruit brandies, brothers Greg and Andy Koenig brought together a singular vision of Old World craftsmanship when they started Koenig Distillery & Winery in 1995. “We produce 1,400 cases and eight varieties, and the two of us hand-pick and handsort everything,” Greg says. “Twenty-

two tons of grapes pass through our fingertips each year.”

Retired American Airlines captain Dick Dickstein always dreamed of operating a winery. But not until 1998 did he stumble across the perfect site.

“We looked at this property on a Friday evening and bought it Saturday morning,” he says as he reminisces about the lush apple orchard overlooking the Boise River that has since become Parma Ridge Vineyards. “It was only the second property we saw.”

“We’re Walla Walla wannabes,” admits Ron Bitner, a globe-trotting entomologist by day who began growing grapes at Bitner Vineyards

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wine & dine Ofri Barmor pets a friendly little goat at her family’s cheesemaking farm.

in 1981, with first production in 1985. In 1997, Bitner commissioned Greg Koenig to make reserve wines under the Bitner Vineyard label, which has since become known for award-winning Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

In March 2007, the federal government paid Idaho winemakers and grape growers the ultimate compliment by designating the Snake River Valley as the state’s first American Viticultural Area (AVA). “A combination of the area’s microclimates, soil and other growing conditions make the Valley a premium grape-growing area,” “Dr. Ron” says. “Those of us who produce wine here have known that for some time. Others are just now finding out.” ı Bitner Vineyards, 16645 Plum Road, Caldwell, Idaho, 208-454-0086, bitnervineyards.com ıϧKoenig Distillery & Winery, 20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, Idaho, 208-455-8386, koenigvineyards.com ıϧParma Ridge Vineyards, 24509 Rudd Road, Parma, ID,

208-722-6885, parmaridge.com ıϧSte. Chapelle, 19348 Lowell Road, Caldwell, Idaho, 208-459-7222, stechapelle.com ıϧSawtooth Winery, 13750 Surrey Lane, Nampa, Idaho, 208-467-1200, sawtoothwinery.com

BRITISH COLUMBIA TRIAL BY FIRE

AN EARLY MORNING LIGHTNING storm that ignited dry leaves and underbrush Aug. 16, 2003, landed the city of Kelowna, British Columbia, on international news reports as the resulting conflagration spread like the proverbial wild fire through Okanagan Mountain Park.

By 8 p.m. that fateful day, authorities began to evacuate the south end of Lakeshore, Timberline, Rimrock and Swick Roads. It’s a peaceful residential area with heart-stopping views of Okanagan Lake that is also

RECIPE Maple-Roasted Bosc Pears with Minted Whipped Cream Variety: Dessert Wines Serves: 6

Twenty years ago, long before “local, seasonal, sustainable” became the mantra of every young chef in town, Frederique and Sinclair Philip were quietly going about their business creating a “new” cuisine on Vancouver Island at Sooke Harbour House. Their culinary philosophy combined the best local provender from farm, field and sea with culinary concepts from Canada, Europe and Asia to form “West Coast cuisine.” The easy-to-make dessert that follows features one of the Northwest’s favorite fall fruits — fresh pears — and appears in The Art of Sooke Harbour House (Sooke Harbour House, 2003). Pair the pears with a Pacific Northwest dessert wine, such as Jackson-Triggs Vintners Sparkling Riesling Ice Wine from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. ⁄4 cup maple syrup 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons minced lemon thyme leaves OR 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest plus 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves 3 Bosc pears, peeled, halved and cored 1 ⁄2 cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint 3

1.

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and whisk (or beaters for an electric mixer) for later whipping the cream.

2. Add the maple syrup, butter and the lemon thyme to a medium mixing bowl and whisk for 1 minute. Add the pears and toss until they are well coated with the maple-butter mixture.

3. Place the pears cut side down in a large baking pan and pour the maple-butter mixture over the top. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, turning the pears every 10 minutes. The pears are done when a paring knife goes in and out of the fruit with very little resistance. Remove from the oven, place on a wire rack and let the pears cool to room temperature, 11⁄2 to 2 hours.

4. About 5 minutes before you want to serve, place the cream, honey and mint in the chilled mixing bowl and whip until stiff peaks form.

5. Place one pear and some of the syrup in a dessert cup or wine goblet and dollop with the whipped cream.

Sooke Harbour House, 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., Sooke, British Columbia, 800-889-9688, 250-642-3421, sookeharbourhouse.com

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wine & dine home to several leading wineries, including CedarCreek and St. Hubertus.

Among the evacuees was the entire goat herd of Ofri and Ofer Barmor, owners of Carmelis Alpine Goat Cheese Artisan. The family, recently emigrated from Israel, built their dreams on opening the artisan dairy and cheese shop so their two young daughters, Lior and Carmel, could enjoy a safer life.

The goat cheese farm was in the process of being built, and the herd (80 goats and two billys) had been delivered just four days earlier. But after the Barmor family was evacuated Aug. 17, the fire started moving toward the farm and their home.

The family home, constructed of logs, was damaged. The farm, including two barns and the milking parlor, the cheese dairy and the aging cellar, plus the visitor center, was almost completely reduced to ashes.

The Barmor family had dealt with tragedy before. In 1997, Ofer was paralyzed in a car accident and is confined to a wheelchair.

“What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger,” Ofri explains in her gentle accent. “We didn’t lose our spirit.”

Within three weeks of the evacuation, the family was back home, rebuilding and recovering from their $300,000 loss. By February 2004, the Barmor family began making cheese again and by June was selling it.

Today, the family hasn’t lost its original philosophy of producing homemade cheeses to complement the fine wines of the Okanagan Valley. Sales and tastings take place in the visitor center with its sunshine-colored walls, high-beamed wood ceilings, and antiseptic white display case brimming with 19 varieties of Carmelis cheese in all shapes and sizes. Outdoors, the animals bleat pleasantly and the unmistakable aromas of fresh hay and goat surround you.

As the first company to establish an artisan cheesemaking operation

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in Kelowna, the Barmor family rolled the dice and overcame seemingly insurmountable obstacles. Today, their products have gained a loyal following; you’ll find their cheeses showcased by the region’s leading chefs, and they are also for sale at the Granville Island Public Market in Vancouver. ı

F E AT U R E

ı Carmelis Alpine Goat Cheese Artisan Inc., 170 Timberline Road, Kelowna, B.C., 250-764-9033, carmelisgoatcheese.com BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has written about

Northwest food, wine and travel for 17 years and is the author of seven books, including the Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

A wooden chef hangs out in the Sooke Harbour House garden.

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“Consistently delicious wine!” Wine Press NW 26830 NW Olson Rd, Gaston, OR 97119 Fall tasting room hours: Sept.-Oct. daily 12 - 5 • Nov.-Dec. Fri.-Sun. 12 - 5

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Explore Puget Sound Wine Country San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA

360-378-WINE Fall hours: Open Daily 11 - 5 (most days) Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com

Family owned & operated winery producing fine wine using estate organically grown & Yakima Valley grapes.

Tasting Room Hours: September: Fri. & Sat., 12 - 5 pm October - December 15: Sat. 12 - 5 pm Sales at other times by appointment. Shipping available www.lopezislandvineyards.com winery@lopezislandvineyards.com

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Western Washington’s Great Wine & Hospitality 121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.

360-748-0432 • www.widgeonhill.com

O•S Winery Formerly Owen-Sullivan Winery

Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.owensullivan.com

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29700 SW Burkhalter Rd., Hillsboro, OR Tasting Room open year-round Mon. - Fri. 11-6 • Sat. & Sun. 11-5 Winter hours begin Oct. 1: Daily 11 - 5

503-648-8198

800-625-5665

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Open 11-5 daily March through December 11975 Smithfield Road • Dallas, OR 800-884-1927 • www.vanduzer.com

The Best Deal in Northwest Wine Country One year for $10 ($15 in Canada)

Call 800-538-5619 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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“Amavi” is derived from the Latin words “Amor,” “Vita,” and “Vinum” ~ Love, Life, and Wine. Our mission is to capture the best of love and life in every bottle of our wine.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

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We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

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Enjoy wines made with a charming French accent.

Our friendly staff is here to welcome you in our historic renovated blacksmith shop.

Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM 33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463

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Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Spring Releases: 2005 Columbia Valley Sangiovese 2005 Walla Walla Valley Merlot 2005 Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Est. 1988 Fri. 1-5, Sat. 11-4, Sun.-Mon. 1-5 Closed Tues. - Thurs.

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

509-526-0676

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Maryhill Winery 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA

Tasting Room Open daily 10-6 • Gold medal wines • Huge Gift Shop selection www.maryhillwinery.com

1-877MARYHILL

Marshal’s Winery World-class wines, great selection with small production quality Taste our current releases!

2004 Port-style Barbera 2005 Port-style Barbera 2006 Sweet Riesling 2005 Syrah

Tasting Room Open daily: daylight to dark and then some 150 Oak Creek Rd, Dallesport, WA 1/4 mile E of Hwy 197 & Hwy 14 interchange

509-767-4633 Fax: 509-767-2194

Excellent case discounts • Shipping available www.marshalsvineyard.com • marshalswinery@gorge.net

“Outstanding Washington Wine List ’02, ’03, ’04, ’05, ’06” — Wine Press Northwest.

Imaginative NW cuisine in a casual and relaxed atmosphere.

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Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection.

Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA

509-548-1213

509-662-5013

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2006 Restaurant Appreciation Award WA Assn. of Wine Grape Growers

18 B Street S.E., Quincy,WA 98848

(509) 787-3714 "Outstanding Washington Wine List Award" - 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 Wine Press Northwest

• Lunch: Mon. - Fri. 11 am - 2 pm • Dinner: Thurs. - Sat. Open at 6 pm (Dinner reservations recommended) www.idlehourcafe.com

Martin-Scott Winery

Visit our winery overlooking the Columbia!

3400 10th St. SE, East Wenatchee, WA 98802

509-886-4596 Open Thurs., Fri., & Sat. 12-5 & holiday weekends Tours by appointment www.martinscottwinery.com judi.scott@martinscottwinery.com

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merlot

What could be better on a summer night than a bonfire along the Oregon coast with a great selection of Northwest Merlots?

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Straight up Northwest Merlots still shine

BY ANDY PERDUE & ERIC DEGERMAN

THE WHOLE SIDEWAYS THING HAS become a bit hackneyed in the past two years, especially the part about drinking Merlot. The Oscar-nominated movie raised the profits of Pinot Noir makers while dashing the hopes of California Merlot and Cabernet Franc producers.

There was little — if any — Sideways effect in Washington, where Merlot has ruled for more than a decade. On paper, Cabernet Sauvignon has eclipsed its little brother in total acres planted and tons crushed in Washington, but that just means there’s plenty of both. And that’s good for Washington winemakers, whose Merlots often are as big as or bigger than Cabernet Sauvignon.

When we put together this judging of 120 Merlots, one discovery we made is the second grape of Bordeaux is grown in just about every appellation in the Pacific Northwest, including the Willamette Valley (which definitely is Sideways country).

Merlot can be made in many styles.

The most popular version is the fruitdriven red with smooth tannins. Yet many Merlots from the Northwest boast plenty of structure and often can fool you into thinking they’re Cabs. The primary reason Merlot does so much better in Washington than most other regions is the soil. In rich soils, Merlot grows like a weed and, well, tastes like one, too. But in Washington’s nutrient-poor, sandy soils, Merlot struggles. The result is better control over vine vigor and smaller berries, which results in riper fruit and bolder flavors.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

This judging was conducted slightly differently than most. Because of that pesky international border, we tasted all of the wines from Washington, Oregon and Idaho together, then sent our judges to British Columbia to judge the Merlots of the Okanagan Valley.

Our U.S. panel consisted of: Krista McCorkle Davis, who owns and operates 26brix restaurant in Walla Walla, Wash., with her husband, Mike; Coke Roth, a member of our tasting panel and longtime international wine judge and now grape grower; Bob Woehler, the dean of Northwest wine writers and our tasting editor; Eric Degerman, managing editor; and Andy Perdue, editorin-chief. Ken Ostashek, a wine lover from White Rock, British Columbia, sat in as a nonvoting consumer panelist. Woehler and Degerman conducted the B.C. portion of the competition with the help of Jay Drysdale, who operates Toasted Oak Wine Bar and Grill in Oliver.

On to the results:

OUTSTANDING DiStefano Winery $28 2003 Domenica, Washington Occasionally forgotten in the shadows of other wineries in Woodinville, Wash., Mark Newton has quietly been producing one superb wine after another since the mid-’80s. Newton and winemaker Hillary Sjolund crafted this blend that is primarily Merlot but also includes Cabernet Sauvignon, and the result was the top wine of our judging. It is a complex red with aromas of leather, red fruit and chocolate, along with dense flavors of dark cherries, mint, cloves and cranberries. Ample tannins provide plenty of backbone while not interfering with all the delicious flavors.

— 467 cases

W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Best Buy A wine that is $15 and under.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted.

CDN: Canadian dollars.

Blasted Church Winery $26 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Don’t let the whimsical label mislead as mellowness is the hallmark of this, the top-rated Merlot from the British Columbia portion of our judging. It’s front-loaded with pleasing red fruit aromas such as currants and pie cherries, accented by oak-influenced Indian spices and sweet caramel, and a tinge of citrus. The same fruit returns in a relaxing manner on the complex palate, joined by pomegranate.

Bright acidity and red peppercorns in the finish momentarily break the hypnosis. The near absence of tannin and a bit of sweetness in the background make this a crowd pleaser.

— 650 cases Best Buy!

Flying Fish $15 2005 Merlot, Washington Click Wine Group in Seattle got its start with wines from Australia and now has expanded to Europe, South America and its own backyard, Washington. This nicely priced Merlot took advantage of grapes from highly regarded Milbrandt Vineyards on the Wahluke Slope, and the wine was crafted by former Northstar winemaker Gordy Hill. The result is a wine with aromas of huckleberries, blueberries and

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red plums. It’s a delicate, pretty wine with a gentle entry, a silky mouth feel and a long, smooth finish. It’s a young wine, but it’s built for drinking now, so age this on the way home from the store, then pop the cork with pizza or grilled meats.

— 6,500 cases Best Buy!

Hoodsport Winery $13 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker William Ammons has been around the Washington wine scene for 20 years, primarily with Silver Lake in Woodinville. He has crafted a superb Merlot for Hoodsport, now a marketing partner with Silver Lake, using grapes from Roza Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It opens with big, spicy aromas of pomegranates and cherries, which lead to bold flavors of dark fruit. This wine is amazingly rich and complex with round, supple and hedonistic flavors. “America will

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Otis Kenyon Wine $39 2005 Seven Hills Vineyard Reserve Merlot, Walla Walla Valley For a new winery to pick up fruit from one of Oregon’s finest vineyards is a feat. To take those grapes and turn them into some of the Northwest’s finest Merlots in just its second vintage is astonishing. This superb red opens with aromas of spicy plums, blackberries and chocolate, followed by bold, dark fruit flavors. Modest tannins give this youthful approachability, and the opulence makes it delicious from start to finish.

— 80 cases

California native Sandra Oldfield with less to work with, but she managed the estate Tinhorn Creek and Diamondback vineyards incredibly. Inviting aromas include strawberry pie, brambleberries, a bit of strawberry leaf and cedar. In the mouth, it’s nubile, complex and silky with sublime tannins. Raspberries and Bing cherries swirl richly throughout with a bit of citrus in the finish.

Food-friendly and ageworthy acidity bodes well for the future. Enjoy with Mediterranean-themed pastas or roasted meats. — 6,012 cases

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $18 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Don’t look for this sensuous Merlot on the shelves just yet, but get ready. The small 2005 vintage left

Del Rio Vineyards $28 2004 Merlot, Oregon Anyone who has followed the recent history of this Southern Oregon vineyard should not be surprised that

drink the hell out of this wine,” said one judge. And at this price, it will.

— 2,000 cases

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it can turn out a wine of this level. Located near Medford, this Rogue Valley vineyard has its name on many other wineries’ bottles.

Under its own label, the results are similarly superior. On the nose are elegant aromas of bright Rainier cherries, hints of oak and a little chocolate. Tongue-coating flavors include lush, ripe cherries and pomegranate juice, and the juicy mouth feel gives way to a moderately long finish.

— 149 cases JLC Winery $32 2003 Spofford Station Merlot, Walla Walla Valley The winery formerly known as James Leigh Cellars relies upon grapes from its estate Spofford Station Vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. Owner/grower/winemaker/ janitor Lynne Chamberlain has crafted a terrif-

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ic wine with aromas of rhubarb-cherry pie with well-managed oak and chocolate undertones. Round, supple flavors of lingering, crowd-pleasing fruit gives way to a long, delicious finish.

— 225 cases Tamarack Cellars $28 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Ron Coleman started Tamarack in 1997 with Merlot in mind, and that focus pays off vintage after vintage with great wines. The grapes for this wine come from no fewer than seven vineyards in six different appellations. The complexity shows in the nose with aromas of brambleberries, Bing cherries, plums and freshly ground coffee, followed by dark, delicious cherry, chocolate and spice flavors. Fairly big tannins are well integrated with all the fruit, so this can be enjoyed now with a big steak or cellared for a half-decade.

— 1,442 cases

Best Buy!

Bridgeview Vineyards $10 2003 Merlot, Southern Oregon Just a stone’s throw north of California is one of Oregon’s largest producers. Through the years, Bridgeview has always been counted on to produce affordable wines that are typically good and sometimes great. This Merlot is an example of the latter, thanks to aromas of cherries and spicy oak and flavors of big, dark fruit. Well-managed tannins and bright acidity provide the backbone for the terrific flavors. This Merlot probably could age awhile, but at $10 per bottle, you might as well enjoy it at its peak, which is right now.

This wine has broad food applications, so don’t be afraid to try it with lamb, pork or even salmon.

— 5,000 cases

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EXCELLENT Northstar $41 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley Northstar was created by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates with Merlot in mind. Though small amounts of other varieties now show up in the tasting room behind the Northstar label, that focus on Merlot has never wavered. This wine is on the verge of greatness and is likely to continue to evolve for a few years. It opens with sexy aromas of cinnamon, allspice, black fruit and dark chocolate, followed by flavors of bold, dark fruit. It’s a lush wine with rich depth and beautiful balance.

— 4,200 cases Dunham Cellars $75 2004 Lewis Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Eric Dunham’s first Merlot is a dandy. The grapes come from one of his favorite vineyards, as Lewis has been a source for his award-winning Syrah for several years.

This wine opens with aromas of bright cranberries, loganberries and cherries, followed by smooth, luscious flavors of Bing cherries and blackberries. Solid tannins provide cellaring potential, though it might be difficult to resist popping the cork now.

— 390 cases Best Buy!

Camas Prairie Winery $14 2004 Champoux Vineyards Merlot, Washington Stu Scott, owner/winemaker of our 2007 Idaho Winery of the Year, produces some of the best-bargain wines in the Northwest, and he starts out with some of Washington’s finest grapes. His vineyard source for this Merlot is the venerable Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, which provides grapes to many of Washington’s finest producers. It opens with aromas of blueberries and sweet, spicy oak, followed by dark, opulent flavors of ripe cherries. Bright acidity and modest tannins give this youthful approachability. Enjoy with grilled meats or Italian dishes.

— 225 cases Best Buy!

Sawtooth Winery $13 2004 Merlot, Idaho Idaho’s second-largest winery also has been one of the Gem State’s most aggressive in terms of planting new vineyards. Brad Pintler oversees both sides of the operation, and he has crafted a beautiful and affordable Merlot — once again proving the potential of the Snake River Valley. This opens with aromas of cocoa powder, toast and spicy cherries, followed by big flavors of raspberries and well-managed oak. This complex and well-crafted wine is filled with juicy flavors and is ready to drink.

— 1,200 cases Best Buy!

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars $15 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels found several sweet spots when she got grapes for this

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Merlot, including Bacchus, Dionysus, Stillwater Creek and Wahluke Slope. The result is a thick, juicy wine that opens with aromas of black cherries and chocolate, followed by dark, dense flavors of ripe, intense fruit. Bold tannins are moderated by silky chocolate notes, and the finish never seems to run out of gas.

— 1,684 cases Two Mountain Winery $20 2004 Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills This winery north of Zillah, Wash., in the Yakima Valley takes its name from the inspiring view it has of Adams and Rainier. The Schmidt family has been farming the land since 1951, and the current generation has turned to wine grapes.

This Merlot shows the potential of this young producer, thanks to aromas of cinnamon, cherries and a hint of oak. Flavors of lush fruit greet the palate, and the modest tannins reminded us that Merlot should be approachable in its youth. This is a beautifully balanced wine with solid tannins and just a whisper of oak.

— 329 cases Whitman Cellars $32 2003 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Steve Lessard proved his winemaking prowess at Hedges Cellars on Washington’s Red Mountain before moving east to the Walla Walla Valley in 2002. He’s developed Whitman Cellars into one of the finest wineries in the valley, thanks to wines such as this Merlot. It opens with aromas of dark, opulent fruit and chocolate undertones, followed by big, dark, juicy flavors of red plums and ripe cherries.

Its opulent midpalate and well-balanced finish provide depth, complexity and fond memories.

— 670 cases Owen Roe $45 2005 DuBrul Vineyard Merlot, Yakima Valley Winemaker David O’Reilly might live in Oregon, but he has no qualms about reaching into Washington if that means working with great grapes. Some of the Northwest’s finest Bordeaux-style reds are coming from DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, and this is another great example. It opens with aromas of rich red fruit and dark chocolate, followed by flavors of Bing cherries and chocolaty tannins. The acidity is right on, making this a broadly applicable food wine.

— 330 cases Hester Creek Estate Winery $17 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Dark and lovely best describes this release from one of the older wineries along B.C.’s Golden Mile near Oliver. A mature nose of black cherries, plums and graceful oak leads into depth on the palate provided by more black cherries and pomegranates. Tannins are subdued, and again, there’s a wealth of acidity often found in the B.C. wines.

— 1,660 cases Abacela Winery $20 2005 Merlot, Southern Oregon This is a

true Southern Oregon wine, using grapes from the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys. Winemaker Kiley Evans has put them all together and crafted a superb Merlot with inviting aromas of blackberries, cherries and spicy chocolate. On the palate are big, rich flavors of plums, blackberries and black cherries. Though not overly aggressive, the ample tannins may well lead you to pop the cork while a ribeye sizzles on the grill.

— 912 cases Icicle Ridge Winery $50 2006 Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, Washington Easily the youngest wine in this judging, this Merlot from the most recent vintage is showing quite well in its youth. Icicle Ridge is in tiny Peshastin, Wash., and it has a second tasting room just a few miles west in Leavenworth. This reserve-level red opens with aromas of fresh huckleberry jam, along with hints of vanilla and chocolate. Its rich, dark flavors are filled with notes of raspberry jam. The already-integrated tannins and smooth midpalate shout, “Drink me!”

— 198 cases Best Buy!

Indian Creek Winery $13 2005 Wood River Vineyards Merlot, Idaho Bill Stowe has 20 vintages under his belt in a state that hasn’t always been kind to its wine industry. He’s always made the best of it and has always been willing to mentor others along the way. He’s also made some darned nice wines, including this Merlot. It opens with aromas of bright cherries and pomegranates, followed by flavors of sweet, dark raspberries and rich cherries. It’s a smooth, plush, drink-now style of Merlot, and it has all the acidity and balance we’ve come to expect from grapes grown in the Snake River Valley.

— 230 cases Jackson-Triggs Vintners $26 CDN 2004 Grand Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley Winemaker extraordinare Bruce Nicholson recently left for Ontario, but his legacy remains in the Okanagan Valley.

Entrancing are the aromas of marionberries, blueberries, Bing cherries, vanilla bean and cured meats. It’s smooth and soft on the entry with those dark mountain berries and cherries. Ample acidity in the midpalate tows along the penetrating tannins, which should begin to fully resolve in two years.

— 2,000 cases Lake Breeze Vineyards $25 CDN 2005 Seven Poplars Merlot, Okanagan Valley Harvest of these grapes spanned more than a month and included Eventus, Olde Pine, Foxben and Lake Breeze vineyards.

Enticing aromas of blackberries, red currants, pomegranates and cocoa powder are met by juicy cherries on a lively palate where tannins and acidity splash about in the finish. A trace of residual sugar makes this even more

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nearly 60 years, and wine grapes were planted beginning in 1980. Claar Cellars’ strength since launching in 1997 has been Riesling, but it’s come on with reds since the arrival of winemaker Bruno Corneaux. This affordable Merlot opens with intriguing aromas of bright cherries, sage and hints of oak, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and a light smokiness. This is a smooth wine that should pair well with lasagna, grilled meats or pizza.

— 252 cases Best Buy!

Columbia Crest $8 2003 Two Vines Merlot, Columbia Valley Count on Columbia Crest to produce consistently delicious wines — and lots of them.

This widely distributed wine carries the message of Washington Merlot to the masses from coast to coast and beyond. It opens with aromas of sarsaparilla, black cherries and sweet spices. On the palate are expressive flavors of black cherries and sweet plums. It’s beautifully balanced with smooth tannins and solid acidity. Thanks to quality and price, this is an easy wine to like.

— 174,000 cases Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards $18 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Jeff Gordon’s vineyard above the Snake River is the source of this superb Merlot from what likely will be known as one of the truly great vintages in Washington. This opens with aromas of spicy cherries, raspberries and loganberries with hints of oak and chocolate. The flavors of cherries, sweet herbs and hints of coffee are backed with well-managed oak and good structure. Enjoy with grilled or roasted meats.

— 2,600 cases

approachable.

— 500 cases

Kalamar Winery $56 2003 Reserve Merlot, Yakima Valley Mark Kalamar’s passion is Merlot, and this Lake Tapps, Wash., winemaker annually handcrafts some of our region’s finest. This reserve-level Merlot takes advantage of ripe grapes from Sheridan and Klingele vineyards in the Yakima Valley. The resulting wine is rich in aromas of Bing cherries and milk chocolate, followed by big, dark, even brooding flavors of black cherries. This is a complex wine that offers plenty of tannin, good acidity and even some intriguing herbal undertones. It’s really good now, and we suspect it still has more to offer.

— 46 cases Stag’s Hollow Winery & Vineyard $30 CDN 2004 Renaissance Merlot, Okanagan Valley Larry Gerelus pulled from estate fruit for a hedonistic Merlot from his state-of-theart facility near Okanagan Falls, B.C. Notes of

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cherry cough syrup, moist earth, cedar and menthol come together in luscious fashion on the palate that’s rich with blackberries, Belgian chocolate and plums.

— 590 cases Leonetti Cellar $65 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Gary Figgins made his first Merlot in 1981, long before it was fashionable. In fact, his efforts brought the noble variety into the spotlight in the Pacific Northwest. Gary has handed winemaking duties over to his son, Chris, and the wines continue to shine. The aromas of plums, chocolate and roasted coffee give way to well-integrated flavors of dark fruit and hints of sweet herbs. The expansive palate melds with the balanced tannins and acidity through the lengthy finish.

— 2,900 cases Claar Cellars $17 2003 White Bluffs Merlot, Columbia Valley The Claar family has farmed atop the White Bluffs overlooking the Columbia River for

Kalamar Winery $30 2003 Merlot, Yakima Valley Mark Kalamar launched his Merlot-focused winery with the vaunted 1999 vintage. Though his operation is near Sumner, Wash., his grapes come from various top sources in the Yakima Valley. This, from his fifth release, offers expressive aromas of black cherries, complex spices and a hint of oak. On the palate are understated flavors of sweet black raspberries and brambleberries. Modest tannins provide all the structure this needs to enjoy with a grilled beef or a hearty lamb dish.

— 216 cases Kestrel Vintners $22 2004 Merlot, Yakima Valley Kestrel’s estate vineyards near Prosser, Wash., are some of the oldest in the state, first planted in 1972. Roughly 10 percent of the grapes for this wine came from these 25-year-old vines, while the rest came from 17-year-old plantings. The resulting wine opens with aromas of juicy cherries and ripe berries, followed by delicious flavors of dark fruit. It’s all backed up with moderate tannins and bright acidity. This could sit in the cellar a few years or be enjoyed now with a variety of meat dishes.

— 1,697 cases

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Best Buy!

Willow Crest Winery $14 2004 Estate Series Merlot, Yakima Valley Dave Minick’s family has been growing Yakima Valley wine grapes since 1980 and now farms 185 acres. Since starting Willow Crest in 1995, Minick has made his reputation with Syrah. This nicely priced Merlot also shows excellence, thanks to aromas of rich dark cherries and hints of oak and flavors of blackberries, black cherries and freshly brewed espresso. This is a fully structured wine behind all the fruit that shows off youthful exuberance.

— 120 cases Two Mountain Winery $20 2003 Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills This young winery in the western Yakima Valley got off to a good start with this Merlot from the extremely warm 2003 vintage. It sends out aromas of black cherries, black berries, roasted coffee and even hints of cranberries. Flavors show off lush black fruit backed with dark, robust structure. The penetrating features last well into the lengthy finish.

— 410 cases Kiona Vineyards Winery $20 2003 Merlot, Columbia Valley Kiona, the first winery on Washington’s Red Mountain, launched its operation in 1972. Today, second-generation winemaker Scott Williams is the man behind this Merlot. It opens with aromas of black cherries, cinnamon and oak, followed by big, juicy flavors of Bing cherries.

It’s a richly structured red with bright, clean flavors and one to enjoy soon.

— 193 cases Barnard Griffin Winery $17 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin, now in his 31st vintage as a Washington winemaker, continues to craft some of the state’s finest and nicely priced Merlots. This luscious red opens with aromas of black raspberries and hints of oak, along with rich, ripe flavors of black cherries, loganberries and cola. Its supple tannins and gentle acidity make it a drink-now wine to pair with pizza, meatloaf or grilled meats.

— 5,100 cases Mannina Cellars $24 2005 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Taking advantage primarily of grapes from vaunted Pepper Bridge Vineyard, owner/winemaker Don Redman is off to a strong start with just his second release. This wine opens with layered aromas of pretty red fruit, spices and hints of oak, followed by penetrating flavors of black cherries, sweet herbs and dark chocolate. An elegant wine that will harmonize with a fine meal.

— 236 cases Five Star Cellars $32 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley The fatherson team of David and Matt Huse continues to wow us with one superb release after another.

This Merlot comes from top Walla Walla vine-

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yards a year after the devastating winter of 2004, which stripped 90 percent of the valley of its grapes. Offered up are aromas of red plums and ripe raspberries, along with hints of chocolate. Rich cherry and chocolate flavors greet the palate. Sturdy tannins and solid acidity provide plenty of structure for aging or pairing with grilled meats.

— 960 cases 428 Wines $34 2004 Boulevard, Columbia Valley This new winery in Washington’s Walla Walla Valley has put together a delicious Merlot for its first release. It’s a blend of 88% Merlot from Alder Ridge Vineyard and 12% Syrah from Boushey Vineyard. It opens with elegant aromas of black truffles, dark cherries and lilacs, followed by flavors of ripe blackberries and cherries, as well as spicy chocolate. This is an opulent, hedonistic red with a supple texture that will pair well with stews, casseroles, pasta or flank steak.

— 222 cases Terra Blanca Winery $35 2002 Reserve Merlot, Red Mountain Keith Pilgrim has built a beautiful Tuscany-inspired winery surrounded by vineyards on one of the hottest pieces of land in the Northwest, and his vines are beginning to get some age, which shows in the wines. This Merlot opens with intriguing aromas of fresh cherries and blueberries, followed by pretty flavors of spicy red fruit. Modest oak, bright acidity and tempered tannins provide complexity and structure. A delicious wine that is in its prime.

— 560 cases Three Rivers Winery $50 2005 Champoux Vineyard Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Considered by most to be the finest vineyard in Washington, Champoux is growing grapes for top wineries. This marvelous Merlot opens with aromas of cocoa powder, raspberries and dark cherries. Wellmanaged oak integrates with rich red fruit flavors and grainy tannins. This wine has broad shoulders and will mellow with a bit of time in the cellar. Can’t wait? Fire up the grill and toss on some New Yorks.

— 190 cases Des Voigne Cellars $26 2005 The Emcee Merlot, Columbia Valley This young Woodinville, Wash., winery has a good look with its stylish labels and wine names — and a suave wine to back it up.

Relying primarily on grapes from Windy Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, this opens with aromas of pomegranates and spices, followed by ripe, delicious flavors of dark cherries. Smooth tannins provide solid length.

— 98 cases Glen Fiona $30 2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley Now owned

by Silver Lake Winery, this Walla Walla Valley winery has expanded beyond Rhône varieties — and with good results. This Merlot opens with aromas of black cherries, spicy oak, cola

and new leather. On the palate are flavors of chocolate-covered cherries, sweet spices and chewy tannins that give way to a big finish.

— 190 cases Walla Walla Vintners $28 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Back in Vol 1., No. 1 of Wine Press Northwest, the 1995 version of this wine finished second out of 50 Washington Merlots. Gordy Venneri and Myles Anderson continue their tradition of crafting some of the state’s finest Merlot. This opens with aromas of roasted coffee beans, ripe cherries and chocolate, followed by penetrating flavors of dark fruit with a big midpalate and chocolaty finish.

— 816 cases Watermill Winery $20 2005 Chances R, Columbia Valley The first vintage for this Walla Walla Valley winery is enhanced with this Merlot-based (75%) red.

Rich Funk, whose skills in the cellar have turned his Saviah Cellars into a perennial medal winner, also crafted Watermill’s first releases. This wine opens with aromas of black cherries and roasted coffee, followed by sweet, ripe flavors of big, dark fruit with chocolate undertones. Hints of caramel on the ample tannins provide additional intrigue.

— 360 cases Chateau Ste. Michelle $26 2004 Cold Creek Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley This venerable vineyard northeast of the Yakima Valley has been a cornerstone for Ste. Michelle’s wines since the 1970s. This example offers aromas of cranberries, bright cherries, cinnamon and charming oak, followed by explosive flavors of blackberries and ripe cherries. It’s a rich, bold, upfront wine with well-managed tannins and a lengthy finish.

— 2,400 cases Melrose Vineyards $20 2004 Merlot, Umpqua Valley Melrose’s 150acre vineyard along the South Umpqua River near Roseburg, Ore., is growing fascinating grapes that consistently hit high on our radar.

This Merlot offers aromas of Rainier cherries and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of pomegranates, raspberries and cherries. Solid acidity brightens the fruit on this wine considerably and kept leading us to think about serving this with salmon.

— 278 cases Silver Lake Winery $17 2003 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley This Woodinville, Wash.-based winery (with additional locations in the Yakima Valley and Leavenworth) has long made tasty wines at affordable prices. This reserve-level Merlot is no exception. It opens with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, followed by flavors of ripe cherries, dark chocolate and sweet spices. It’s a big wine from a hot vintage that can be tamed with a marbled steak.

— 2,240 cases

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merlot Bergevin Lane Vineyards $25 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley This is from the third release of a Walla Walla Valley producer that is well on its way, thanks to stylish wines with lip-smacking flavors. This opens with understated aromas of plum sauce, chocolate and spicy oak, followed by subtle flavors of ripe black cherries and understated roasted coffee. Modest tannins give this youthful approachability.

— 450 cases Vashon Winery $22 2004 Merlot, Washington Owner/winemaker Ron Irvine learned his way around the state while researching his book on the history of Washington wine, so it’s no surprise to us that he discovered the superior grapes grown at Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills north of the Wahluke Slope. This Merlot offers luscious aromas of bright cherries, chocolate and even brown sugar, followed by rich, bold flavors of ripe dark fruit backed with moderate tannins that will give it cellarworthiness for at last a half-decade.

— 100 cases L’Ecole No. 41 $37 2005 Seven Hills Estate Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley The year after a hard winter can be difficult to manage because the vines want to put out plenty of growth. Yet the vineyard managers of Seven Hills were able to create a balance and grow grapes that showed off aromas of blueberries and dark cherries, along with bold flavors of black cherries and ample tannins.

— 1,411 cases Alexandria Nicole Cellars $24 2004 Destiny Ridge Vineyards, Horse Heaven Hills Jarrod Boyle scored quite a coup when he came upon the land that would become Destiny Ridge, his estate vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The resulting wines have been consistently top drawer, and this Merlot is no exception. It offers aromas of cherries, toasted oak and hints of leather, followed by full-bodied flavors of black cherries.

— 494 cases

hint of residual sugar in the finish.

— 455 cases Twisted Tree Vineyards & Winery $25 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Chris and Betta Tolley founded their winery just east of Osoyoos, British Columbia, and this is from their second vintage. It’s crafted along the lean styles of Bordeaux in high-toned red fruit such as pie cherries and white strawberries with a bit leaf and earthiness.

— 700 cases Olympic Cellars $20 2004 Bacchus Vineyard Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner Kathy Charlton is a tireless promoter of Washington wine and her own Olympic Peninsula winery — and she has a wonderful sense of humor to match her wines. This Merlot from Sagemoor Vineyards in Eastern Washington opens with aromas of red cherries and hints of sizzling bacon, followed by dense flavors of dark fruit, dried cherries and hints of chocolate. The gripping tannins will pair nicely with a grilled steak topped with a bit of blue cheese. — 150 cases Gray Monk Estate Winery $17 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley The Heiss family has grown cool-climate grapes north of Kelowna, British Columbia, for 35 years, but they rely on the southern Okanagan Valley for their Merlot. George Heiss Jr. and Roger Wong crafted a lightly oaked wine dominated by dark cherries and blackberries, a smooth entry, managed tannins, bold acidity and low alcohol (12.4%). Enjoy with roasted or braised meats such as pork, lamb or venison.

— 2,500 cases

Best Buy!

Dutch John’s $17 2005 Private Reserve Merlot, Washington We aren’t quite sure what the story is with this young Wenatchee, Wash., winery — or even who Dutch John is. But he’s making some fine Merlot in his first effort. This red opens with aromas of pomegranates, raspberries and vanilla, followed by smooth, round flavors of cherries and even huckleberries. A pleasing, well-balanced wine.

— 75 cases

Columbia Crest $11 2004 Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley Columbia Crest’s middle-tier Merlot is amazing — not only for its flavors but also for its price and availability. This opens with elegant aromas of blackberries, plum sauce and leather, along with flavors of lush dark chocolate and black cherries. This is a well-structured wine with plenty of length and rich flavors.

— 140,000 cases

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards $18 CDN 2004 White Label Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley Described by one judge as a “Bordeaux Merlot,” it opens with aromas of cherry cola, teriyaki, pipe tobacco, cedar and a bit of barnyard. Beautiful softness awaits with a succulent structure of black cherries, raspberries and vanilla. Acidity and oak tannins arrive on the finish.

— 1,014 cases

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ly sweet structure.

— 250 cases

Snoqualmie Vineyards $23 2004 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Joy Andersen has found a sweet spot with fruit on the warm Wahluke Slope for many of her wines, this reserve-level Merlot included. It opens with pleasant aromas of Olympic Peninsula rainforest floor, along with spicy red fruits. On the palate are flavors of subtle cherries and tart blackberries. Moderate tannins and right-on acidity combine to give this racy read plenty of stability.

— 600 cases Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $27 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley One of the Okanagan Valley’s showpiece wineries produces one of the province’s most widely available Merlots. Charming oak allows vanilla, cherries and raspberries to peek out in the aromas. More of the same beautiful red fruit abounds on the smooth and richly structured palate. Tamed tannins and a bunch of acidity allow for a snappy finish.

— 4,127 cases Terra Blanca Winery $20 2002 Terra Blanca Estate Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain One of the attractions for visitors to Terra Blanca has been the caves that were dug into Red Mountain, which provide perfect conditions for aging wine in barrels.

In recent years, owner Keith Pilgrim has expanded beyond the original two caves, so he can have more room to make wines such as this. It opens with spicy aromas of cherries and oak, followed by bright flavors of Rainier cherries. A well-balanced wine that is at its prime.

— 5,400 cases Fairview Cellars $25 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Bill Eggert founded this Bordeaux-focused winery an errant tee shot from a golf course near Oliver, B.C., so to see his Merlot score well is no surprise. This one in particular showed more complexity than most from B.C., opening with aromas of river rock, blackberries, minerality, anise, espresso, vanilla and cedar.

Juicy, low-hanging fruit bounces on the tongue with boysenberries and plums. It’s weighty and rich without tannins, then lifted on the midpalate and beyond by great acidity.

— 300 cases

RECOMMENDED Best Buy!

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery $25 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Here’s a release from a new British Columbia winery.

It’s a Merlot that’s easy to embrace, starting with cherry juice and stewed plum aromas.

It’s juicy, straightforward, soft and plummy on the palate with lively Bing cherry acidity and a

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Stag’s Hollow Winery & Vineyard $22 CDN 2004 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Delicate aromas of strawberry fruit leather, pie cherries and cola set the stage for a pleasantly smooth palate that’s focused on fresh plums with strawberry candy. And yet, there’s great acidity in the finish to prop up its user-friend-

Ridge Crest $10 2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley This label produced by Claar Cellars is a real bargain and a tasty wine, thanks to aromas of black raspberries and coffee and flavors of cherries, raspberries and chocolate notes. A fun wine with solid tannins.

— 350 cases

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Three Rivers Winery $19 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Walla Walla winery’s mainline Merlot is a straightforward wine with aromas of purple fruit and roasted coffee, followed by big, youthful flavors of bright cherries and hints of caramel.

— 1,280 cases Chateau Ste. Michelle $22 2004 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Columbia Valley Ste. Michelle’s estate vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills overlooks the mighty Columbia River. It provided the grapes for this Merlot, which offers elegant aromas of dark fruit and fresh leather and mouthwatering flavors of black raspberries, vanilla and milk chocolate.

— 12,000 cases Townshend Cellar $20 2001 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Spokane, Wash., winery entered one of the older wines of the competition — from a vintage that still is showing plenty of life. This Merlot offers aromas of dark fruit and freshly brewed espresso and lush flavors of black raspberries, blackberries and mocha.

— 350 cases Patit Creek Cellars $29 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This Dayton, Wash., winery was founded on Merlot and still focuses on the noble variety. This wine provides aromas of spicy cranberries and vanilla, followed by richly structured flavors of cherries through the lengthy finish.

— 275 cases Best Buy!

Snoqualmie Vineyards $10 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Merlot is the standard bearer at this Prosser, Wash., winery and would be well worth it at twice the price. This shows off aromas of black fruit and moist earth along with dark flavors of ripe cherries.

— 10,000 cases Best Buy!

Bridgeview Vineyards $10 2004 Blue Moon Merlot, Southern Oregon Bridgeview has done quite well with its Blue Moon series, thanks to the blue bottles and value. This Merlot shows off intriguing aromas of sweet berries and black licorice along with smooth flavors of ripe cherries and sweet herbs.

— 5,000 cases

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corners of the Northwest in Blaine, Wash., and the grapes for this luscious Merlot came from one of the Yakima Valley’s finest vineyards, Elephant Mountain. It offers aromas of sweet spices and black cherries and flavors of Bing cherries and plums.

— 50 cases Hillside Estate Winery $19 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Plums, cherries, vanilla and cola notes dominate the senses in this juicy Merlot, which is embraced by big acidity that bodes well for the future.

— 1,000 cases Wedge Mountain Winery $18 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Charlie McKee operates in Peshastin, Wash., near Leavenworth and has planted an estate vineyard along the Wenatchee River.

However, the grapes for this Merlot came from the Yakima Valley. This shows off dark fruit aromas and flavors with underlying herbal notes.

— 93 cases Reininger Winery $30 2003 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley With his winery moved west of Walla Walla, Wash., Chuck Reininger is taking his operation to the next level with more room and more releases.

Merlot has been part of the lineup for many years, and this version does not disappoint, thanks to aromas and flavors of ripe red cherries, oak and chocolate undertones.

— 1,162 cases Ash Hollow $26 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley Ash Hollow is the first vineyard one sees when entering the Walla Walla Valley from the west.

However, in 2004, the hard winter left very little fruit in the valley, so Ash Hollow and many other wineries had to look outside of the appellation for grapes. This Merlot reveals lively aromas and flavors of rhubarb, ripe cherries and floral notes.

— 320 cases DiStefano Winery $29 2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley Using fruit sources from the Yakima and Columbia valleys, Mark Newton crafted a Merlot that reveals aromas and flavors of huckleberries and sweet spices with underlying rich structure. A big, dark wine with ample tannins.

— 571 cases

Wild Goose Vineyards $25 CDN 2005 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley Strawberry fruit leather, mince meat and chocolate aromas lead into rewarding flavors of currant jam and pie cherries with great acidity on the front of the palate and tannins in the background, capped by vanilla bean.

— 200 cases

Helix by Reininger $22 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley Chuck Reininger and family members produce this lower-priced wine at their facility west of Walla Walla using grapes from throughout the Columbia Valley. This Merlot opens with aromas of ripe dark fruit and roasted coffee, followed by robust flavors of black cherries.

— 1,106 cases

Dakota Creek Winery $20 2005 Merlot, Yakima Valley Ken and Jill Peck’s winery is in one of the more beautiful

Hoodsport Winery $17 2000 Merlot, Yakima Valley This was the oldest wine in the competition, and it is start-

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ing to show some age, though the judges felt it still has plenty of life left. It stands out from the crowd thanks to aromas of sizzling bacon and flavors of ripe cherries and well-managed oak.

— 619 cases Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery $20 CDN 2004 Summit Reserve Merlot, British Columbia The Giddas and winemaker Graham Pierce blend estate fruit from their Westbank and Silmilkameen vineyards for a food-friendly Merlot. Hints of new French oak and tobacco leaf accent the blueberry and blackberry aromas. Those berries spill out on the tongue along with a pinch of parsley in the midpalate amid a structure of easy tannins and raspberry acidity. Suggested food pairings include beef, lamb or pastas with a red sauce.

— 2,000 cases Nelms Road $21 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Woodward Canyon’s second label has become a big hit with consumers and restaurateurs alike. This Merlot is blended with Cab Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera and Syrah, and the resulting wine shows off aromas and flavors of plum sauce, black pepper, ripe cherries, dark chocolate and even molasses cookies. — 2,957 cases Pedestal $55 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley This wine is part of the Long Shadows group in Walla Walla and is crafted by Michel Rolland, famed winemaker and consultant in Bordeaux. The grapes come primarily from the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope, and the wine shows of aromas and flavors of bright cherries and smooth oak note. — 1,624 cases Pepper Bridge Winery $45 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley A hard winter created difficult times in the Walla Walla Valley. Winemaker Jean-François Pellet had to search the Northwest for grapes when the estate vineyard couldn’t provide. The resulting wine shows off complex aromas and flavors of ripe plums and dark cherries, along with hints of toasted oak. Solid tannins provide plenty of backbone.

— 891 cases Best Buy!

St. Josef’s Wine Cellar $12 2003 Merlot, Willamette Valley If you’re surprised to see a Merlot from Pinot Noir country, you aren’t alone. But in 2003, the folks at St. Josef ’s had no problem getting a warm-climate variety ripe at their estate vineyard. This big wine reveals aromas and flavors of penetrating black fruit, silky chocolate and plenty of tannins.

— 400 cases Gray Monk Estate Winery $24 CDN 2003 Odyssey Merlot, Okanagan Valley This is the oldest of the B.C. wines entered, and the bold structure developed by George Heiss Jr. and Roger Wong shows there’s more in store for this release off a single-vineyard

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Valley This Naramata Bench winery produced a Merlot rich with raspberries and sweetened plums balanced by leather and earthy notes and late acidity.

— 950 cases Nk’Mip Cellars $25 CDN 2004 Qwam Qwmt Merlot, Okanagan Valley Strawberry and cherry acidity with toasted oak and assertive tannins all come into play and should show well in the future.

— 2,476 cases Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $28 CDN 2004 Oldfield’s Collection Merlot, Okanagan Valley Sandra Oldfield puts her name on this cherry-driven release accented by mocha, toast and vanilla. It’s a bit tight and was tasted prior to release, but Oldfield’s track record with this grape portends much better days ahead.

— 1,300 cases

Krista McCorkle Davis of 26brix restaurant in Walla Walla tastes through a flight of Merlots. site in Oliver. There are aromas of pie cherries, nutmeg and plum fruit leather. Flavors of red currants and black cherries are pushed forward by firm tannins. An accent of black licorice in the finish makes it a good foil for robust meats and cheeses.

— 1,200 cases Henry Estate $20 2004 Merlot, Umpqua Valley Oregon’s Umpqua Valley is an interesting area that can seem to grow Merlot and Pinot Noir equally well. That’s certainly the case at Henry Estate, where this red came from. It provides aromas and flavors of dark chocolate, rich blackberries and oak, accompanied with moderate tannins.

— 335 cases Best Buy!

Parma Ridge Vineyards $13 2003 Merlot, Idaho Owner/winemaker and former airline pilot Dick Dickstein produced this luscious and affordable Merlot from estate grapes. It offers aromas and flavors of plums, cherries and Baker’s chocolate with just the slightest hint of flavors that reminded us of Dr Pepper.

— 305 cases Pend d’Oreille Winery $20 2004 Merlot, Washington Steve Meyer has crafted a pretty wine in his North Idaho facility using Washington grapes. This Merlot shows off smooth aromas of cherries and chocolate, followed by big flavors of ripe berries and sweet herbs.

— 425 cases Best Buy!

Revelry Vintners $22 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley The folks at this Issaquah, Wash., winery are reinventing how we think about wine containers. The package is a tube about the same size as a wine bottle but holds 1.5 liters, making this Merlot a really great deal. And it’s a really

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good Merlot, too, with aromas and flavors of fresh red fruit and sweet spices, backed up with solid tannins.

Silver Lake Winery $40 2000 Roza Hills Vineyard Grand Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley This reserve-style wine was one of the oldest in our competition, and it still is showing plenty of life, thanks to aromas and flavors of ripe, bold red fruit and mild oak. The big tannins on this wine call for an equally large cut of meat.

— 230 cases Ste. Chapelle $8 2005 Winemaker’s Series Merlot, Idaho Winemaker Chuck Devlin has three decades of experience in winemaking, most of it in California but the last several years in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. This tasty and affordable Merlot offers aromas and flavors of bright red fruit with oak undertones and smooth, approachable tannins.

— 1,000 cases Lake Breeze Vineyards $18 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Strawberries, cherries, cedar and anise notes show in both aromas and flavors of the soft approach that’s held up with bright acidity.

Chateau Ste. Michelle $38 2004 Ethos Merlot, Columbia Valley The majority of the grapes for this reserve-level Merlot came from Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills.

It offers aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries, cinnamon and dark chocolate. It’s a bit tightly wound but should blossom with a bit of cellaring.

— 1,200 cases Hillside Estate Winery $30 CDN 2004 Reserve Series Merlot, Okanagan

Wild Goose Vineyards $20 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley The Krugers focus this release on black cherry aromas and flavors along with pie cherry acidity for a lively structure and a finish of toasted oak.

— 450 cases Wooded Island $20 2002 Merlot, Columbia Valley Claar Cellars produces this wine from Wooded Island Vineyard near the White Bluffs overlooking the Columbia River. This is a huge wine with aromas and flavors of spicy red fruit, cinnamon and ample oak.

— 500 cases Blasted Church Winery $35 CDN 2005 Revered Series Merlot, Okanagan Valley Revered, but not too reserved, it’s big with black cherry Kool-aid, black peppercorns, white strawberries and Cab-like tannins.

— 105 cases Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $18 CDN 2004 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Strawberry, watermelon and cherry candy are met with bold acidity and sturdy tannins that should allow it to stand up alongside marinated flank steak.

— 9,496 cases Sandhill Winery $20 2002 Merlot, Red Mountain Sandhill is a winery in ownership transition, but that doesn’t take away from the fact that its grapes come from the estate Red Mountain Vineyards, one of the finest fruit sources on the Red Mountain bench. This is a boldly flavored wine with ripe black cherries showing up throughout.

— 850 cases ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest. Read his blog, The Wine Knows, at community.winepressnw.com.

ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press Northwest. Email him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

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Hyatt Vineyards 2020 Gilbert Rd., Zillah, WA 98953

509829-6333 Fax: 509-829-6433

Open daily 11 a.m.5 p.m. www.hyattvineyards.com

Piety Flats Winery Located in the historic Donald Fruit & Mercantile bldg 2560 Donald-Wapato Rd Wapato, WA (Exit 44 off I-82, go 1/8th mile North to our tasting room at Piety Flats Winery and Mercantile)

Open Daily 10-6 Sundays 10-5 pm

509-877-3115 www.pietyflatswinery.com

Desert Hills Winery Where the fun begins!

Enjoy our award winning wines and new releases in our cozy tasting room.

1208 North 1st St. Yakima, WA (Exit 31 off 1-82 Go 1/2 mi., on right)

Tasting Room hours: Mon.-Fri. 10-4 Sat. 11-5 • Sun. 12-4 or by appt.

www.deserthillswinery.com • 509-453-0503

Award-Winning Wines Tasting Room open: Daily 10 am - 5 pm 530 Gurley Rd., Granger, WA 98932

1-866-EATON HILL

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Chandler Reach Vineyards 9506 West Chandler Rd. Benton City, WA (Exit 93 off 1-82) Visit our new Tuscan Villa & Tasting Room.

Sit on our patio and sip one of our estate Red Wines while taking in the incredible views!

Open: 11-5 Thur.-Sun. & Special Events Private tours by appt.

Sorry, no bus accomodations

509-588-8800

tracy@chandlerreach.com • www.chandlerreach.com

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Ninth Annual Wine Press Northwest

Best Northwest Wine Lists

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

A RT W O R K B Y K E N S U S Y N S K I

BEST NORTHWEST WINE LIST T H E H E R B FA R M W O O D I N V I L L E , WA S H .

RON ZIMMERMAN DID NOT TRY to hide his love affair with the world of wine during the Riesling Rendezvous this summer.

He took his seat early, planting himself in the front row for every panel discussion.

And his passion for Northwest wines continues to be unmatched by any restaurant. The full-color, 160-page wine list at The Herbfarm is an annual testament to that. This marks the seventh consecutive year Rosemary and flowers grow in The Herbfarm’s garden.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

Zimmerman has earned Wine Press Northwest’s Best Northwest Wine List award. And there’s no end in sight.

“We now have over 24,000 bottles in inventory and 4,100 selections,” Zimmerman wrote in the cover letter for his entry. “Of the 24,000 bottles, 75 percent are from Oregon and Washington, that being 32 percent and 43 percent respectively by bottle count.”

Sparkling wines from Argyle in Oregon date to 1989. Chardonnay begins with Adelsheim and ends with Woodward Canyon. L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon stretches to 1995.

See how Idaho Riesling ages with a bottle of Ste. Chapelle’s from 1994.

Zimmerman’s knowledge of B.C. Gewürztraminer shows with offerings from Wild Goose. Abacela’s complete vertical of Albariño, starting with 2003, is available.

Perhaps most impressive is Zimmerman’s “Pinotscope” — deep verticals of virtually all of Oregon’s premier Pinot Noir producers — and there are similar offerings of Cabs/red blends from Washington.

By-the-glass opportunities include the Zerba Cellars 2005 Syrah Ice Wine and three Leonetti reds.

It’s not uncommon for new vintners to view placement on The Herbfarm’s list as a sign of success.

Getting your photograph and bio among the pages means greatness.

In the past year, The Herbfarm cellar has grown by about 300 selections. Rather than merely adding pages, Zimmerman tore apart his list to create two sections: “New World” and “Old World.”

Experience tells him most people

who “are looking for Red Mountain Cabs aren’t interested in Bordeaux and vice versa,” he said.

He’s also listening to his guests and staff. “The biggest recent hit of our wine program has been our wine samplers and tasting flights,” Zimmerman said. “Typically, 30 or so of these are available to guests at any given time.”

The Herbfarm team of sommeliers includes Tysan Pierce, formerly of the Heathman in Portland, and Lisa Rongren, ex-wine director from Ray’s Boathouse. They collaborate on the nightly newsletter that each

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guest receives. There are 225 separate editions each year.

Heck, the list even serves as a travel brochure, including touring info and tasting room hours for each of the 30-plus Woodinville-area wineries.

“When 1980 rolled around, there were all of 15 wineries in Washington.

I believe that I was aware of them all and had visited most,” Zimmerman wrote. “Quality was all over the map.

Johannisberg Riesling was king, and Lemberger was considered a major comer on the red wine front.

“Times change,” he added.

This fall, Keith Luce — chef for Cosentino Winery in the Napa Valley — replaces Jerry Traunfeld, who will open his own restaurant in 2008.

Traunfeld saw Zimmerman’s list evolve during the past 17 years. The rest of the Northwest would be well served to take a page or two out of his book.

The Herbfarm, 14590 NE 145th, Woodinville, Wash., 425-485-5300, theherbfarm.com.

OUTSTANDING NORTHWEST WINE LISTS ANDRAE’S, BOISE

Chef/owner Andrae Bopp nearly opened his restaurant in Walla Walla because of its wine scene, and his list explains why he won the Washington Wine Commission’s outof-state award. It is very light on Idaho, but choice selections of Oregon Pinot Noir abound, and B.C. ice wines from Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs show up for dessert.

Andrae’s, 816 W. Bannock, Boise, 208385-0707, andraesboise.com.

O C E A N C R E S T R E S O RT M O C L I P S , WA S H .

One of the smallest towns in the Northwest harbors one of our favorite lists. There’s a tidal wave of widely known wines, and yet your wallet won’t get wiped out. Of the 74

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dozen glass pours, none is more than $9. It’s long on Washington reds, spiced with Cabs from Champoux Vineyard. Enjoy a Woodward Canyon 2000 Old Vines Cab for just $94.

Rhone lovers will find several from McCrea. There’s a lineup of Oregon’s rock-star Pinots. From B.C. are blends

by Osoyoos Larose and Mission Hill’s Oculus, as well as Tinhorn Creek’s Late Harvest Kerner. Idaho’s Coeur d’Alene Cellars checks in with its Opulence Syrah.

Ocean Crest Resort, 4651 State Route 109, Moclips, Wash., 800-684-8439, oceancrestresort.com.

PURPLE CAFE AND WINE BAR S E AT T L E

This thoughtful assortment of Northwest wines begins in the back half of a 69-page list and touches on famous Oregon and Washington wineries as well as rising Walla Walla stars such as Isenhower and Saviah.

“Oddball” offerings include Wilridge’s Nebbiolo di Klipsun, WillaKenzie Estate’s Pinot Meunier and Abacela’s Tempranillo. There are also a handful of B.C. whites.

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, 1225 Fourth Ave, Seattle, 206-829-2280, thepurplecafe.com.

S T E E L H E A D D I N E R , S E AT T L E

Regionality dominates the Pike Place Market. So too, do the handpicked wine offerings by Aaron Angelo at this new restaurant. It’s allNorthwest, and each corner appears.

Uncommon yet food-friendly varieties abound such as Arneis (Ponzi), Cab Franc (Andrew Rich), Chenin Blanc (Ste. Chapelle), Grenache (McCrea), Gewürztraminer (Brandborg), Malbec (Willis Hall), Pinot Auxerrois (Gray Monk), Nebbiolo (Wilridge), Petite Sirah (Portteus), Pinot Blanc (St. Innocent), Riesling (Farm Boy and Poet’s Leap), Sauv Blanc (JacksonTriggs), Semillon (Chinook), Tempranillo (Abacela) and Zinfandel (Thurston Wolfe). Sparklers include Mountain Dome. Most of the reds are priced below $60.

Steelhead Diner, 95 Pine St., Seattle, 206-625-0129, steelheaddiner.com.

WAT E R F R O N T S E A F O O D G R I L L S E AT T L E

The Washington Wine Commission’s reigning Restaurant of the Year features a star-studded blend from throughout the Northwest starting with wines by the glass such as Argyle’s Brut, Long Shadow’s Poet’s Leap Riesling, a rosé

by Elk Cove and reds from Andrew Will, Dunham and Mary Ryan.

Among the two dozen Oregon Pinot Noir is the rarely seen Domaine Serene 2002 Monogram ($495). And fans of half-bottles are being heard.

Waterfront Seafood Grill, 2801 Alaskan Way, Pier 70, Seattle, 206-956-9171, waterfrontpier70.com.

BEST WASHINGTON WINE LIST C A M P B E L L’ S R E S O RT, C H E L A N

By George, he’s done it again. For the fourth straight year, George Van Over brings home our “state title” because his concept combines quality, price and focus. “Enlightening but not intimidating” accurately describes his list, which opens with a nice assortment of Walla Walla halfbottles. And yet, 20 regional wineries are represented. Historians can find four vintages of Andrew Will Sorella (each at $75) or the Boudreaux Cellars 2003 Cab Sauv ($52). Both are about $10 over retail, and the Leavenworth-built Boudreaux topped the 2006 Wine Press Northwest judging of Cabs.

Campbell’s Resort, 104 W. Woodin Ave., Chelan, 509-682-2561, campbellsresort.com.

OUTSTANDING WASHINGTON WINE LISTS A N T H O N Y ’ S H O M E P O RT, R I C H L A N D

Tri-Citians flock over the seafood

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Italy is the focus here, but there’s a significant Walla Walla presence, headlined by Woodward Canyon Dolcetto, a recent vertical of Leonetti Sangiovese as well as Sangios from Tamarack, Walla Walla Vintners and Yellow Hawk. Buty reds and whites appear often. Barrister of Spokane comes in with three vintages of its award-winning Cab Franc ($35). For some intrigue, there’s the Blackwood Canyon 1988 Chardonnay ($70).

Bella Italia, 118 E. First St., Port Angeles, 360-457-5442, bellaitaliapa.com E A RT H & O C E A N , S E AT T L E

George Van Over tends bar at Campbell’s Resort in addition to overseeing their wine list.

that is flown in daily, but most of these wines come from within an hour’s drive. Alexandria Nicole, Barnard Griffin, Chinook, Dunham, Gordon Brothers, Leonetti, Nelms Road/Woodward Canyon and Ste. Michelle contribute heavily to the almost all-Northwest list. Hogue makes most of the “house wines.”

Anthony’s HomePort Richland, 550 Columbia Point Dr., Richland, 509-9463474, anthonys.com.

BARKING FROG, WOODINVILLE

The famed Willows Lodge houses the Barking Frog, and there’s a wide lineup of elite Washington wines such as Andrew Will, Bergevin Lane and Long Shadows. Wine director Jeffrey Dorgan opens with a nice twist, focusing the opening pages on the 30-plus Woodinville area wineries and the winemakers. There were just five local wineries when the restaurant opened in 2000.

Barking Frog, 14580 NE 145th St., Woodinville, 425-424-2999.

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Inside “The W” Hotel they refer to all Northwest wines as “Local.” Rob Griffin makes the house Chardonnay and Walla Walla’s Eric Dunham crafts the house red blend. Both are glass pours. Andrew Will, Betz, DeLille, JM, Matthews, Mark Ryan, Quilceda Creek, and Woodward Canyon earn multiple entries on the red pages.

The Oregon Pinot Noir list includes a choice of two each from Ken Wright and Torii Mor. A nice touch is the inclusion of two Zinfandels from the Columbia Gorge — Maryhill and Sineann. For the less intrepid, eight regional wines show up among the “30 for $35” portion.

Earth & Ocean, 1112 Fourth Ave, Seattle, 206-264-6060, earthocean.net.

E L G A U C H O , S E AT T L E

There is knowledge of Walla Walla here with reds from Basel, SYZYGY, Tamarack, Va Piano and Waters.

Blends from Puget Sound stars include Andrew Will, Mark Ryan and O*S. And some of the glass pours pique the curiosity with Cristom Pinot Noir, Long Shadow’s Syrah (Sequel) and Leonetti Merlot.

El Gaucho Seattle, 2505 First Ave., Seattle, 206-728-1337, elgaucho.com.

E L G A U C H O , TA C O M A

This list is more Northwestfocused that that of its sister property just north, starting with two of the state’s most famous Rieslings in

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the Chateau Ste. Michelle/Ernst Loosen Eroica and the Long Shadows Poet’s Leap. Respected Oregon producers dominate the lineup of Pinot Noir, and Walla Walla — Beresan, Buty and Woodward Canyon to name a few — is spotlighted among the blends, Merlots and other reds. The most expensive is a red from Matthews Cellars ($58).

El Gaucho Tacoma, 2119 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253-272-1510, elgaucho.com.

4 2 N D S T R E E T C A F E , S E AV I E W

Andrew Will, Barnard Griffin and Woodward Canyon are mainstays on this affordable, thoughtful and quick list, which opens with food-friendlies such as the “Woodie” 2005 Barbera ($40) and the incomparable Chinook 2004 Cab Franc ($35).

42nd Street Cafe, Seaview, 360-2323, www.42ndstreetcafe.com.

I C O N G R I L L , S E AT T L E

More than half of the two-page list is based in Washington, and at the top of the offerings is the “Washington State: The Perfect Climate For Wine” logo. It is heavy on Ste. Michelle Wine Estates properties, which explains why among the half-bottle choices are Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Chardonnay ($13) and Cold Creek Cab ($28), and Northstar Merlot ($45). icon Grill, 1933 5th Ave., Seattle, 206441-6330, icongrill.net.

NIKO’S, SPOKANE

Gotta love it when three glasses of red wine appear while the home page is building, and Pauline Riley features local bubbly house Mountain Dome. Those suffering from “Chardonnay Burn-Out” find several Viognier choices, including Alexandria Nicole and Coeur d’Alene Cellars. There are top-notch Oregon Pinots, and it’s impossible to not find an in-state red to your liking, many from Walla Walla. Among those under $40 a bottle are Russell Creek’s Merlot, Yellow Hawk’s Sangiovese and Woodward Canyon’s Barbera.

Niko’s Greek Restaurant & Wine Bar,

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725 W. Riverside, Spokane, 509-624-7444, nikosspokane.com.

P E A R L’ S O N P E A R L W I N E B A R & BISTRO, ELLENSBURG

Co-owner Ron Kohler features many varieties and values from the Yakima Valley, the Tri-Cities and Walla Walla. More than 40 wines are available by the glass, with the most expensive being the Eroica 2005 Riesling ($9), which is rare to see as a glass pour. Fans of Barnard Griffin, L’Ecole and McCrea face choices.

Pearl’s on Pearl Wine Bar & Bistro, 311 N. Pearl St., Ellensburg, 509-962-8899, pearlsonpearl.com.

P O RT F O L I O , S E AT T L E

Wine educator Dieter Schafer holds classes and heads up the list for The Art Institute of Seattle’s restaurant, which is limited but loaded with sparklers — two from Mountain Dome — as well as reds and whites from Willis Hall and Woodward Canyon.

Portfolio Restaurant, The Art Institute of Seattle, 2600 Alaskan Way, Seattle, 206239-2363.

PURPLE CAFE & WINE BAR WOODINVILLE

A page is devoted to Woodinville wines with offerings leaning heavily toward Mike Januik and nearby Ste. Michelle, Columbia and Silver Lake.

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, 14459 Woodinville-Redmond Road, 425-4837129, Woodinville, thepurplecafe.com.

T H E F O U R S WA L L O W S BAINBRIDGE ISLAND

State wines gain a spotlight on this breezy list, which favors Buty, L’Ecole No. 41, Nicholas Cole and Ste. Michelle alum Ron Bunnell, Charlie Hoppes (Goose Ridge), Mike Januik and Allen Shoup (Long Shadows).

The Four Swallows, 481 Madison Ave., Bainbridge Island, 206-842-3397, fourswallows.com.

THE IDLE HOUR CAFE & STEAKHOUSE, QUINCY

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historic all-stars remain, but he’s expanded his offerings of Central Washington wines such as Benson, Chateau Faire Le Pont, Chelan Estates, Horan, Jones, Martin-Scott, Milbrandt, Saint Laurent and Vin du Lac. All are served in Riedel.

many of Washington’s most famous reds. And now, Wenatchee Valley producers such as Boudreaux, Fielding Hills, Ryan Patrick, Saint Laurent, Sandidge, Wedge Mountain and White Heron have earned their placing, too.

The Idle Hour Cafe & Steakhouse, 18 B St., Quincy, 509-787-3714, idlehourcafe.com.

Visconti’s Ristorante Italiano, Leavenworth, 636 Front St., 509-5481213, Visconti’s Ristorante Italiano, Wenatchee, 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., 509-662-5013, viscontis.com.

THE THIRD FLOOR FISH CAFÉ KIRKLAND

Big reds from some of Washington’s most famous producers — Chateau Ste. Michelle, L’Ecole, Leonetti, Quilceda Creek and Woodward Canyon — provide most of the weight to this list that challenges the notion that seafood is best with white wines.

The Third Floor Fish Café, 205 Lake St. South, Suite 300, Kirkland, 425-8223553, fishcafe.com.

T H E VA L L E Y C A F E , E L L E N S B U R G

Gregory Beach earns his sixth Outstanding Washington award for many reasons, starting with a list that’s 90 percent Washington. Prices typically are around $10-$15 above retail, such as Helix by Reininger 2003 Merlot ($36). You can buy it for $25 in Beach’s adjacent wine shop on your way home.

All glass pours come in under $10 and include food-pairing ideas. His education program includes winemaker tastings on the first Friday of each month.

The Valley Cafe, 105 W. Third Ave., Ellensburg, 509-925-3050.

2 6 B R I X , WA L L A WA L L A

Tourists want the famous local wines, and 26brix delivers, starting by the glass where 17 of the 21 offerings are in-town. Overall, there are more than 40 different Walla Walla Valley wineries to receive placement by sommelier Robert Ames.

26brix, 207 W. Main St., Walla Walla, 509-526-4075, twentysixbrix.com V I S C O N T I ’ S I TA L I A N R E S TA U R A N T ’ S , L E AV E N W O RT H A N D W E N AT C H E E

Dan Carr long has showcased

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Entries from Walla Walla producers Amavi, Abeja, Canoe Ridge, Dunham, Long Shadows and Woodward Canyon are common.

Gordon Brothers crafts the WAC house Chardonnay, Cab, Merlot and Syrah, and there is a late 1990s vertical of Hedges’ Red Mountain Reserve. By-the-glass is all Northwest.

Washington Athletic Club, 1325 Sixth Ave., Seattle, 206-622-7900, wac.net.

WILD SAGE AMERICAN BISTRO SPOKANE

Easy access from Interstate 90 and local wineries Arbor Crest, Barrister, Grand Ronde, Robert Karl and Townshend — along with some reasonably priced Walla Walla wines — add to this new downtown restaurant’s appeal. Next door is the Grande Ronde tasting room.

Wild Sage American Bistro, 916 W. Second Ave., Spokane, 509-456-7575, wildsagebistro.com.

ZEPHYR GRILL & BAR, KENT

The new, urban Kent Station village is home to a restaurant focused on state wines. The Washington Wine Commission logo sits atop the “Wine Menu,” and it’s heavy on the big players — Ste. Michelle, Columbia, Columbia Crest, Covey Run, Hogue and Snoqualmie.

A nice touch is the offering of halfbottles, including Northstar Merlot and Benton-Lane Pinot Noir.

Zephyr Grill & Bar, 240 W. Kent Station, Kent, 253-854-5050, www.zephyrgrill.com.

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Stuart’s Big Fire, Solena and WillaKenzie.

Anthony’s HomePort at Bend, 475 SW Powerhouse Dr. Bend, 541-389-8998, anthonys.com/restaurants/info/bend.

B AY 1 3 , P O RT L A N D

Seasonal and sustainable-sourced seafood in this historic Pearl District location is paired primarily with Oregon Chardonnay, particularly those from classic Dijon clones. That means pioneers such as Adelsheim, Chehalem, Domaine Drouhin, Domaine Serene, Hamacher and Ponzi get top billing.

Bay 13, 701 NW 13th Ave., Portland, 503-227-1133, bay13restaurant.com.

BISTRO MAISON, MCMINNVILLE

The view from Timberline’s Cascade Dining Room is as spectacular as its wine list.

BEST OREGON WINE LIST T H E C A S C A D E D I N I N G R O O M AT TIMBERLINE LODGE, MOUNT HOOD

Wine program manager Dave Villali stands atop the Oregon entrants for the fifth straight year.

Staff involvement is a key. Nick Stewart takes a keen interest in the Northwest Wine Summit, annually staged at Timberline Lodge, and Villali’s servers participate in weekly staff tastings. Wines by the glass are limited to Northwest entries, and the list reaches deeply into Washington. However, the eight pages of Pinot Noir — including 40 entries from Ken Wright, many in 375 ml bottles — are unforgettable.

Also featured are three home-grown sakes from Momokawa. It’s telling that a number of ex-employees run wine lists at other restaurants.

The Cascade Dining Room, Timberline Lodge, 503-622-0700, timberlinelodge.com.

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OUTSTANDING OREGON WINE LISTS A L L O R O W I N E B A R & R E S TA U R A N T BANDON

World-class golf revived this beach town, and Lian Schmidt’s fresh Italianthemed restaurant features a nice array of Oregon’s Pinot Noir as well as in-state reds from Abacela and Zerba.

Alloro Wine Bar & Restaurant, 375 Second St. SE, Bandon, 541-347-1850, www.allorowinebar.com.

A N T H O N Y ’ S H O M E P O RT AT B E N D BEND

The Seattle-based group “imports” some Washington wines, but it tailors this list for Oregon. Included are Argyle Brut and Chardonnays by Brick House, Domaine Drouhin, Lange, O’Reilly’s and Ponzi. Some carry over onto The Three Pinots of Oregon — Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir — along with Anne Amie, A to Z, Bethel Heights, Erath, King Estate, R.

This classic French bistro run by Jean-Jacques and Deborah Chatelard strikes a strong chord with nearby producers such as Anne Amie, Archery Summit, Beaux Freres, JK Carriere, Domaine Drouhin, Domaine Serene, Panther Creek, R. Stuart, Solena, Ken Wright and several Peter Rosback productions.

Bistro Maison, 729 E. Third St., McMinnville, 503-474-1888, bistromaison.com.

F I L B E RT ’ S , P O RT L A N D

Chef/owner Bill Sutherland is from Baltimore, but the list shows a passion for finding not-yet-famous Pinot Noir producers from Oregon with Amalie Robert, Apolloni, Black Cap, Capitello and Natalie’s Estate, to name a few. Should you bring your own, the $10 corkage fee is donated to various charitable organizations.

Filbert’s, 1937 N.W. 23rd Place, Portland, 503-222-2130, filbertscafe.com.

GEISER GRAND HOTEL, BAKER CITY

It’s not easy, but the intrepid Barbara Sidway goes the extra mile — including driving to the North Willamette Valley — to provide some of Oregon’s best for those living and traveling on the east side of state.

Geiser Grand Hotel, 1996 Main St., Baker City, 888-434-7374, geisergrand.com.

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L A R A M B L A R E S TA U R A N T & B A R MCMINNVILLE

It’s not uncommon to find local winemakers here as Northwestinspired cuisine from Spain receives balance with regional wines, including Abacela’s Albariño and Tempranillo. In fact, the 200-list offerings hail from either Oregon or Spain.

La Rambla Restaurant & Bar, 238 NE Third St., McMinnville, 503-435-2126, laramblaonthird.com.

N I C K ’ S I TA L I A N C A F E , M C M I N N V I L L E

It’s the 30th anniversary of Nick Peirano’s restaurant, arguably the most famous in Oregon wine country. That shows on the wine list, which reads like a who’s who, particularly when it comes to Pinot Noir.

Jim Biddle, a longtime wine steward in Portland and the Willamette Valley, assists with the list.

Nick’s Italian Cafe, 521 N.E. Third St., McMinnville, 503-434-4471, nicksitaliancafe.com.

S A L I S H A N S PA A N D G O L F R E S O RT GLENEDEN BEACH

Homegrown bubbles, a mouthwatering assortment of Pinot Gris, a lengthy selection of Chardonnay and a dazzling six pages of Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs show Oregon pride. Joe Dobbes is a common denominator, and six vineyard-designated Ken Wright Pinot Noirs as well as six from Raptor Ridge and seven from Rex Hill are available.

Salishan Spa and Golf Resort, 7760 Highway 101 N., Gleneden Beach, 800452-2300, salishan.com.

1 0 0 1 , P O RT L A N D

An impressive lineup of a dozen half-bottles by some of Oregon’s primo Pinot Noir producers is followed by bubbles and Pinot Noir rosés at this Pearl District restaurant.

A bit deeper on the list are many north Willamette Valley Pinots smartly categorized by appellations.

Ten-01, 1001 NW Couch, St., 503-226DINE, ten-01.com.

T E R R O I R R E S TA U R A N T & W I N E B A R P O RT L A N D

Stu Stein, the chef/celebrity/author 78

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who regionalized the menu and list at The Peerless in Ashland, Ore., stays even closer to home at this new sustainability spot of his in Portland. Cooper Mountain’s organic offerings are a prime example.

Terroir Restaurant & Wine Bar, 3500 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Portland, 503-490-9886, terroirportland.com.

THE DUNDEE BISTRO, DUNDEE

Willamette Valley cuisine is what this restaurant is all about, and Luisa Ponzi features much more than just her wines. The Bistro brings in nearby winemakers and makes this a prime wine-touring destination.

There’s a wide selection of 375-ml bottles and some older vintages, too.

The Dundee Bistro, 100-A SW Seventh St., Dundee, 503-554-1650, dundeebistro.com.

THREE RIVERS GRILL, HOOD RIVER

Jim Dey is a New Jersey native, and yet his list headlines neighboring wineries such Cathedral Ridge, Syncline Cellars, The Pines 1852 and Viento. And that’s just by the glass.

There’s also Dominio, Maryhill, Mount Hood and Pheasant Valley. All are reasonably priced.

Three Rivers Grill, 601 Oak St., Hood River, 541-386-8883, 3riversgrill.com.

BEST BRITISH COLUMBIA WINE LIST TOASTED OAK WINE BAR & GRILL OLIVER

Here is the quintessential wine list for a restaurant in wine country. Jay Drysdale is the GM and a licensed sommelier who is given carte blanche by local ownership. The lineup of 420 labels is an A-to-Z of the provincial wine industry — minus a U, X , Y and Z — and 100 percent B.C. And unlike the adjacent wine shop, Toasted Oak serves non-Vintners Quality Alliance bottlings. “Toasted Oak is about representing the best B.C. has to offer,” Drysdale says.

Jay Drysdale of Toasted Oak Wine Bar & Grill also runs a wine shop that’s in the same building.

Toasted Oak Wine Bar & Grill, 34881 97th St., Oliver, 888-880-9463, winecountry-canada.com.

OUTSTANDING B.C. WINE LISTS CELLAR DOOR BISTRO SUMMERLAND

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery set the standard in the Northwest when Harry McWatters established this well-regarded restaurant within his winery. The list features only VQA wines and not just the award-winning house wines. Flights are available each day for chef Neil Schroeter’s guests.

Cellar Door Bistro, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, 17403 Highway 97 N., Summerland, 250-494-0451, sumacridge.com/cellardoor.

O ’ D O U L’ S R E S TA U R A N T & B A R VA N C O U V E R

Calvin DesChene could go cosmo-

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best wine lists politan inside the art-influenced Listel Hotel, but provincial wines frame his palate. Eight of his 12 white glass pours and five of his 10 reds are B.C., and he provides a suggested food pairing with each. Big houses such as Blue Mountain, Burrowing Owl, CedarCreek, Jackson-Triggs, Mission Hill, Quails’ Gate and Tinhorn Creek are common, but so are the likes of Joie, Kettle Valley and La Frenz.

Dessert offerings include Sumac Ridge’s Port-styled Pipe.

O’Doul’s Restaurant and Bar, 1300 Robson St., Vancouver, 604.661.1406, thelistelhotel.com, odoulsrestaurant.com.

SOOKE HARBOUR HOUSE, SOOKE

The best of burgeoning Vancouver Island’s wine scene and beyond only begins to describe Sinclair Philip’s Herbfarm-esque collection at 15,000 bottles and 2,500 labels, which guests can tour. He updates his B.C.focused glass-pour program more often each week than many restau-

rants revise their entire list in a year.

Among the deep vertical offerings are nearby Venturi-Schulze, Sumac Ridge’s Stellar’s Jay brut and more than 100 provincial ice wines, including Canada’s first — the Hainle 1978 Riesling.

Sooke Harbour House, 1528 Whiffen Spit Road, Sooke, 250-642-3421, sookeharbourhouse.com.

T H E O ’ S R E S TA U R A N T, P E N T I C T O N

Two generations of the Theodosakis have befriended the B.C. wine industry, which deservedly dominates the list. Value and versatility show up on page after page at the popular place. New wineries such as Barcello Canyon, Black Widow, Joie, Therapy, Twisted Tree and Van Westen appear alongside the veterans of the Okanagan Valley.

Theo’s, 687 Main St., Penticton, 250-4924019, eatsquid.com.

BEST IDAHO WINE LIST B E V E R LY ’ S , C O E U R D ’ A L E N E

Eric Cook knows his way around the Northwest wine scene, and he maintains his position atop Idaho while on the seventh floor of The Resort at Coeur d’Alene. There is hometown favorite Coeur d’Alene Cellars and nearby TimberRock among the Idaho entries, as well as select wines from Spokane, Walla Walla and the Willamette Valley.

Beverly’s at The Coeur d’Alene Resort, 115 S. Second St., Coeur d’Alene, 800688-4142, cdaresort.com.

OUTSTANDING IDAHO LISTS BLUE RIBBON BISTRO, MERIDIAN

Beverly’s is on the seventh floor of the The Coeur d’Alene Resort on the edge of Lake Coeur d’Alene.

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David Knickrehm is chef and owner of the fascinating new Blue Ribbon Artisans project that’s dedicated to “estate” meats, an on-site fromagerie using “estate” milk and a bakery with a full-time barista. They

AWA R D S

don’t have their own winery, but some in-state and other Northwest wines are available.

Blue Ribbon Bistro, 1441 N. Eagle Rd, Meridian, 208-855-5858, blueribbonartisans.com.

KETCHUM GRILL, KETCHUM

Owner/chef Scott Mason is a Northwest native, and his reasonably priced wine offerings reflect that, despite the Californication of Sun Valley. State representation includes Koenig, Ste. Chapelle, Sawtooth and both Ketchum wineries: Frenchman’s Gulch and Phantom Hill.

Ketchum Grill, 520 East Ave., Ketchum, Idaho, 208-726-4660, ketchumgrill.com.

R E D F E AT H E R L O U N G E , B O I S E

Wine director Brandon Bruins fancies Washington reds and Oregon Pinot, but he doesn’t ignore Idaho.

Twice he recognizes the quality of Chardonnay from Vickers Vineyard.

And Bruins is high on state-grown Syrah, exemplified with entries by Hells Canyon, Koenig, Sawtooth and Williamson. For dessert, there are ice wines by Koenig (Riesling) and Sawtooth (Gewürztraminer).

Red Feather Lounge, 246 N. Eighth St., Boise, 208-429-6340, redfeatherlounge.com.

M O RT I M E R ’ S , B O I S E

This marks Jon Mortimer’s eighth year of operation in Boise, and Idaho wines are easily found atop of each page. Pend d’Oreille and Koenig show up repeatedly, and Indian Creek and Ste. Chapelle are listed for Riesling. Fans of Walla Walla reds and Pinot Noir from Oregon will find satisfaction.

Mortimers, 110 S. Fifth St., Boise, 208338-6550, mortimersidaho.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press

Northwest. Email him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

KEN SUSYNSKI is a Seattle artist who specializes in

wine country art and whose artwork has accompanied this competition’s results for many years. His Web site is susynski.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

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Diane CooperKnutz ties up the horses during a stop along the river.

Lloyd Piercy, owner of Echo West Vineyard, joins the Muscat-Dun tour through his vineyards.

The horseback tour goes through Echo West Vineyard and Drew Bledsoe’s Flying B.

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Equine and wine Oregon woman guides horseback tours through vineyards

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

MUCH OF DIANE COOPER-KNUTZ’S professional life entails wining and dining.

Tack on horseback riding, too.

This year, she combined all three passions and came up with MuscatDun Vineyard and Ranch Tours in Echo, Ore. One of those vineyards overlooking the Umatilla River belongs to a recent Cowboy — retired Dallas Cowboys quarterback Drew Bledsoe.

“We ride up the vineyard hill and tour the different vineyards, go into Drew’s vineyard, then have dinner at Muscat-Dun,” Cooper-Knutz said.

“There’s a pergola set up, we have a three- or four-course meal with chosen Northwest wines and have a great time in the beautiful vineyards.

We like to keep it very intimate with groups of two to four people.”

Cooper-Knutz, a project manager for Hilton Restaurant Group, allows about seven hours from saddling up to the last cup of coffee. Cost is $225 per person or $425 per couple.

None of it would be possible without the access provided by rancher/grape grower Lloyd Piercy and his wife, Lois. They own Echo West Vineyard, the 35-acre planting adjacent to Bledsoe’s Flying B site.

“The Piercy family has found a jewel in Oregon,” said recent guest Winnie Alberg of Stillwater Creek Vineyard in Royal City, Wash. “They are blessed to have a beautiful property that not only boasts gorgeous 360-degree views, but it is also optimal for growing premium wine grapes. Muscat-Dun absolutely enhances the experience, and their

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INFORMATION A B O U T M U S C AT- D U N

ıϧMuscat-Dun is an hour’s drive south of the Tri-Cities, 45 minutes west of Walla Walla and 20 minutes north of Pendleton. ıϧMuscat-Dun Horseback Vineyard Tours 541-571-3640 muscatdun.com ıϧEcho West Vineyard 541-376-0421 echowestvineyard.com

on-site patio was the perfect setting for our evening meal.”

Piercy, who grew up in Royal City, said purchasing the ranch along the Umatilla River in 2002 was emotional.

“We are the first outside-of-thefamily owners of this land, which dates back to the 1800s,” Piercy said.

“But we’re not really owners. We’re more stewards, and sharing the beauty of the place with people is what’s important.”

Piercy began planting his vineyard in 2004 and sells most of his fruit — Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat Canelli, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo and Zinfandel — to Holly Turner at Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla.

However, Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar and Charlie Hoppes of Fidelitas are frequent visitors to Echo West and Flying B. Bledsoe’s vineyard manager is Jack Ringe, sonin-law of famed Horse Heaven Hills

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grower Paul Champoux. Flying B (that’s B for ball) fruit will go into a new winery for Bledsoe, who graduated from Walla Walla High School.

“Drew truly is an American hero,” Piercy said. “He was a very successful athlete, has remained a role model and is a good guy to work with.”

Having Bledsoe connected to Muscat-Dun should make marketing easier, but there are many interesting angles to the story. For example, the idea stems from a quarterhorse named Pig. “It started on a ‘poker ride’ as I rode my horse through these vineyards,” Cooper-Knutz said. “Pig’s brother used to run bulls through these cliffs years ago, so this horse had a thing with this place, and I fell in love with the grapes.”

A cycling group from Tri-Cities, Wash., has been welcomed to stage an annual race on the ranch for years, so the Piercys naturally embraced Muscat-Dun. “We’ve given Diane a lot of leeway, and we’re working with her so that we’re not spraying when she’s got guests,” Piercy said with chuckle.

“But once she gets discovered, she’ll be quite busy.”

Piercy’s daughters, Angel and Brie, own and operate the Red Express Deli in downtown Echo. They provide the grub and Northwest wines that Cooper-Knutz and her Wranglerwearing volunteers serve at sunset.

“I couldn’t do this without my wonderful friends,” she said.

“Sometimes we don’t get out of here until midnight, but we love it.

Us three girls ride every single day in the winter and the summer.

There are days when we are bundled up and in 3 inches of snow.”

Cooper-Knutz knows her way around the Northwest wine trails, too. She created the concept for the all-Northwest wine list at the Rose City Cafe inside Portland International Airport.

Now, she’s able to share her first passion with others.

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Diane Cooper-Knutz leads the group through a wooded area along the Umatilla River.

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Wildlife sightings are plentiful on the tour.

F E AT U R E

Winnie Alberg of Stillwater Creek Vineyard takes in the view at the end of the trail.

Riders get a unique view of wine country on the tour.

“I had stepped away from horses for a while,” said Cooper-Knutz, a wife and mother. “When I was 18, I worked on embryo transfer ranch and others in Sprague River, Ore. I loved horses then, but it was out of necessity. When I moved to Hermiston a few years ago, I was able to get my first horse — Pig. I basically learned to ride all over again.”

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Twenty-two years later, she is riding as part of a job. Even the name of her business blends equine and wine.

“Muscat is the first vineyard that you come to on the ride,” she said.

“And the color of my horse? A red Dun.” As for the Piercys, they are far from done. They plan to open their own winery near the Red Express and

have hired David Rizzo to make some estate Cab from the 2007 vintage.

“At some point, I hope our wine will be good enough for Diane to serve at her dinners,” Piercy said. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s

managing editor. E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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Three Rivers Grill paired its HazelnutEncrusted Rack of Lamb with Spinach and Polenta Mushroom Cake with The Pines 1852 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel.

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE

Zin and the art of food Northwest chefs pair their dishes with The Pines 1852 Zinfandel

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

THREE RIVERS GRILL HOOD RIVER, ORE.

WORLD-FAMOUS WINDS FIRST lured Jim Dey and his wife, Courtenay — a future two-time Olympic sailor — to the Columbia Gorge almost 20 years ago.

World-class wines helped keep them in Hood River and inspired them to create their Three Rivers Grill.

“When my wife and I arrived in 1989, Hood River wasn’t ready for a restaurant like this,” Dey said. “It was predominantly a windsurfer town. But now, people are building houses here, and there is more and more day tourism. People are living here and working in Portland, or they have brought their businesses here.”

Dey’s wine list allows residents and tourists to drink in much of the best that the Columbia Gorge has to offer.

“It was natural,” Dey said. “This area is so rich and diverse in its wines.

There’s weather influence from the Willamette Valley, then it transitions to the Columbia Gorge, where it changes, and onto the Walla Walla Valley. The wines of the world are available within 100 miles

to the east and west.”

An East Coast background in the restaurant industry and international travel provide Dey with the perspective to make such a claim. He coached Courtenay, who earned a bronze medal at the Atlanta Olympics in sailing’s Europe class and also competed in the 2000 Sydney Games.

“My family’s been in the restaurant business in Rhode Island since 1976, and I worked in it growing up,” he said. “I started by washing dishes when I was 10 or 11. We moved back to Rhode Island in 2000 for a year and managed the family restaurant, but we kept our house here.”

In 2003, the Deys bought a two-story house on the corner of Sixth and Oak. It took a year of modifications to create Three Rivers Grill, and virtually the only feature remaining from the home built in 1895 is the bar’s fireplace. A new mosaic of Mount Hood and grapes — created by a local artist commissioned by the city — adorns a retaining wall along the sidewalk.

When the back patio, front deck, banquet area on the second floor, bar and downstairs dining rooms are all rolling, capacity is 250 seats. Many of them have a view of the town, the Columbia River and the Cascade

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

The Pines 1852 $32 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel, Columbia Gorge —450 cases produced

E

ach issue, Wine Press Northwest sends wine to two chefs with a passion for our region’s wines. The chefs are asked to match a recipe to the selected wine.

This one is quite historic as Lonnie Wright’s mother block of Zinfandel amid Ponderosa pines stems back to the 1800s.

His career in the Northwest wine industry began nearly 30 years ago as an irrigation specialist.

“I worked for Ste. Michelle from 1978 to 1981, planting 2,000 acres in two years at what is now Columbia Crest,” Wright said.

Then, he left for a 60,000-acre project in Libya before returning to The Dalles, Ore. Soon after, Wright’s mother heard an orchardist had found some decrepit vines.

“It had been abandoned for about 20 years,” Wright recalls. “When I got there, the owner had a textbook from U-C Davis opened to the chapter that was like ‘Pruning 101.’ ” Wright took over and jumped in with both hands, carefully digging several feet deep around the roots for any kind of life.

“There were one, two, three buds max on the each plant, but that was enough,” he said.

The late Cliff Blanchette turned these grapes into a commercial wine and won a medal at the Oregon State Fair.

“That’s when Peter Rosback found out about it,” Wright said.

In 1994, Rosback began using Old Vine fruit for his Sineann label.

Seven years later, Wright gained control of the vineyard and launched his winery with Rosback as his winemaker. And while Wright has reeled in his own grapes, scions from the resurrected vines live throughout the Columbia Gorge.

Harvesting fruit from the Old Vine block typically runs Oct. 5-10.

Ripeness is not an issue, evidenced by the 15.8% alcohol. Natural acidity balances the sweetness and the alcohol, so Wright toasts Rosback each year and jokes, “Thanks for not screwing these grapes up.”

The Pines 1852, Tasting Room, 202 State St., Hood River, OR, 541-9938301, thepinesvineyard.com

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPES Hazelnut-crusted Rack of Lamb with Rosemary Jus Serves 4

1 tablespoon minced garlic 3 sprigs fresh rosemary Salt and pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon Port-style wine 1 1⁄2 cups lamb or beef stock 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon honey 1 clove fresh garlic, crushed 2 ounces chopped and roasted hazelnuts 2 ounces Panko bread crumbs 1 dash cayenne pepper Olive oil 4 lamb racks (Note: Have butcher French-trim the upper ends of the racks and trim all but a thin layer of fat from the top-side of the ribs) 1. To make Rosemary Jus, combine garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper in a stock pot. Place over high heat and cook for 30 seconds.

2. Add the Port and stock, then bring to a boil.

3. Reduce heat and simmer until reduced. Set aside and either keep warm or warm up before serving.

foothills.

“People here in Hood River want to see the river, and they want to be outdoors. That’s the lifestyle, and we want to give them a feel for it at Three Rivers Grill,” Dey said.

And the cuisine of Carlos Mendoza keeps diners coming back.

“Ever since I was a kid, I’ve wanted to be a chef,” Mendoza said. “I feel happy doing it and never get tired. I can cook all day long and come up with new things.”

Mendoza, 29, says 80-hour work weeks are “no big deal. I take time off in the winter.”

He’s been at Three Rivers Grill nearly from the beginning and living in Hood River for 11 years. “I’ve learned a little bit from everybody in town,” he said.

Family recipes from his native Mexico continue to influence his style. His wife grew up in the area, 90

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Preheat the oven to 425°F. 5. For the crust, melt the butter in a sauté pan. Mix in garlic, hazelnuts, honey and panko. Add cayenne, salt and pepper.

6. Remove from heat and place mixture on wax paper.

7. Press flat and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

8. When cooled, cut into four pieces to be placed on each of the lamb racks.

9. Heat a thick, oven-proof baking tray on the stovetop and coat the pan with oil. Sear the racks on high heat, meat side down.

10. Turn off stovetop and flip racks over.

11. On top of each rack, place one of the four refrigerated crust pieces. Put tray in preheated oven or 12-15 minutes or until desired internal temperature of 120°F is reached.

12. Let stand for 3-4 minutes before serving.

13. Drizzle Rosemary Jus on plate around lamb rack. Serve with Polenta Cake.

4.

and they spend much of their off time fishing with their four daughters. “I’m a busy man,” he said with a smile.

The diversity of the Columbia Gorge’s geography and weather, which appeals to outdoors enthusiasts, also makes for great wine, Dey said.

“We try to represent the finest wines from each winery in the area and exemplify the different microclimates,” Dey said. “The wine industry has matured drastically, especially in Hood River. The local wines are so great, and value-wise they are better than California and

Creamy Spinach and Mushroom Polenta Cakes Serves 4

⁄3 pound baby shitake mushrooms, sliced after trimming off stems 1 tablespoon butter 1 clove fresh garlic, crushed 1 dash cayenne pepper Salt and pepper, to taste 1 ⁄4 pound fresh spinach, julienned 1 ⁄4 cup whipping cream 1 ⁄4 cup Parmigana Reggiano, grated 8 1⁄2-inch thick slices ready-to-serve polenta 1

1. Place mushrooms in hot, slightly oiled sauté pan until slightly browned.

2. Add butter, garlic, cayenne, salt, pepper and spinach.

3. Add cream and Parmesan. Allow cheese to melt and reduce mixture until thickened.

4. Arrange four polenta slices on a lightly oiled cookie sheet or pie tin.

5. Carefully spoon stuffing mixture on top of polenta cakes, then cover with other four polenta slices.

6. Bake approximately 15 minutes at 350°F and serve.

France. And a lot of them are just higher quality.”

That explains why Dey annually features our Match Maker wine — The Pines 1852 Old Vine Zinfandel — on his wine list.

“This area is so rich and diverse in its wines...The wines of the world are available within 100 miles to the east and west.”

—JIM DEY

Mendoza paired this historic wine with his Hazelnut-Encrusted Rack of Lamb with Spinach and Polenta Mushroom Cake. It’s accompanied by a special au jus sauce.

“It’s a traditional Mexican sauce and one my mom used to make for

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M AT C H M A K E R S For oenophiles traveling from the Puget Sound, Ellensburg and Pearl’s on Pearl Wine Bar & Bistro happens to be well situated for those heading east, west, north or south.

“We really are kind of the gateway to wine country,” said executive chef Cinda Kohler. “You can choose which direction you want to go. You can go to Yakima for the day or go to Chelan for the day. People are coming just to see wine country, and it’s fun being a part of it and having enough knowledge to point them in a direction.”

A look at the wine list shows that she and her husband, Ron, know plenty. It’s value-driven and virtually all Washington. There are no $10 glass pours, and most of the bottles are $60 or less. Many are in the $40 range, among them are the Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red ($32) and the Waterbrook Melange ($24). On Tuesday nights, both are among the handful offered at halfprice. So the Chinook 2003 Merlot can be your table for just $19.

“There’s fabulous wine in this state that’s inexpensive,” Cinda said, “and a lot of time, the price is not an indication of what’s inside the bottle.”

The same could be said of the culinary scene in Ellensburg, which the Kohlers have been a part for the better part of 30 years since meeting as CWU students.

“It’s exploding right now, and Ellensburg is exploding,” Cinda said.

“There’s the influence of Central and Suncadia, where they are building million-dollar homes, so there’s a huge increase in our demographic group.”

That Pearl’s on Pearl, which opened June 2001, survived 9/11 is not surprising to its guests — including those with special dietary

needs. Cinda draws from her degree in nutrition to provide for them, particularly if they call ahead to the 75seat, dinner-only bustling bistro.

“It’s been really fun to see the

“There’s fabulous wine in this state that’s inexpensive, and a lot of time, the price is not an indication of what’s inside the bottle.”

Carlos Mendoza is the executive chef at Three Rivers Grill in Hood River, Ore.

steak,” Mendoza said.

Ripe strawberries and dark plums make this a big Zin with the richness and grace to sidle up nicely to the boldness of lamb. Mendoza plays up the earthy notes in the Old Vine with the hazelnuts on the lamb and the mushrooms in his polenta. The cheesiness of the cake also is a nice foil for the Zin, and the dash of cayenne pepper accents the wine’s spicy anise finish with pleasing style.

It should be noted that the polenta cake is so delicious, it could stand on its own at the breakfast table.

Three Rivers Grill, 601 Oak St., Hood River, Ore., 541-386-8883, 3riversgrill.com

PEARL’S ON PEARL WINE BAR & BISTRO E L L E N S B U R G , WA S H .

ALMOST SMACK-DAB IN THE MIDdle of Washington state, it makes sense for Ellensburg to be the home of Central Washington University.

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

—CINDA KOHLER

smile on people’s faces who can’t do what you and I get to do and order whatever we want on the menu,”

Cinda Kohler is co-owner and executive chef of Pearl’s on Pearl in Ellensburg, Wash.

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPES Rolled Italian Meatloaf Serves 8

1 ⁄4 1 1⁄2 2 1 1⁄2 1 ⁄2 2 1 ⁄2 1 1 1 ⁄2 1 ⁄4 3 ⁄4 1 1⁄4 3

3 ⁄2 1 ⁄2 1 ⁄2 1

tablespoon olive oil cup mushrooms, minced cups onion, minced large cloves garlic, minced pounds ground beef, 85% lean pound Italian sausage eggs cup Italian parsley, minced tablespoon Italian seasoning teaspoon salt teaspoon pepper cup red wine or tomato juice cup grated parmesan cheese cups Italian bread crumbs FILLING: ounces prosciutto, thinly sliced pound smoked mozzarella, sliced cup basil, coarsely chopped cup sun-dried tomatoes, reconstituted

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a jelly roll pan with parchment.

2. Heat oil in sauté pan. Add the onions and mushrooms, then sauté until onions are translucent, about 3-4 minutes.

3. Add the garlic and sauté about 30 seconds. Remove heat and cool slightly.

4. Place all but the filling ingredients in a mixing bowl and combine well.

You can do this by hand or use a mixer.

5. Place meatloaf on a piece of plastic wrap and cover with another piece.

Using a rolling pin, roll to about 10- by 15-inch rectangle about 3⁄4-inch thick.

6. Place the sliced pieces of prosciutto in the center of the roll leaving about 1 inch on the ends.

7. Top the prosciutto with sliced mozzarella, chopped basil, and sundried tomatoes.

8. Starting at the side closest to you, roll up like a jelly roll, closing the ends as you go. Make sure there are no cracks and the seam is sealed well. Place seam side down on the prepared pan.

9. Bake for about 1 hour. Let sit for about 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with Pomodoro Sauce, Garlic Mashed Potatoes (see recipes below) and sautéed mixed vegetables.

Note: Kohler also makes this in individual serving sizes by dividing the meatloaf mix-

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ture into six-ounce portions, cutting the cheese into sticks and wrapping the prosciutto around the cheese, basil and tomatoes, and then rolling the meat around the prosciutto bundle. These are great in the freezer ready to bake after a long work day.

Pomodoro Sauce Yields 2 cups

2 1 2 1 2

tablespoons olive oil small onion, diced into 1⁄4-inch pieces large cloves garlic, minced 28-ounce can diced tomatoes tablespoons total fresh oregano, thyme or basil OR 1 tablespoon of the same in dried herbs.

1 ⁄4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1. In a sauce pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, about 6-8 minutes.

2. Add the tomatoes and herbs and bring to a boil.

3. Lower the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes until thickened.

4. Season with salt to taste.

Note: This sauce can also be used with pasta, as a pizza sauce, or with many other meats. Great to have on hand in the freezer.

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Garlic Chives Serves 8

3 pounds of red potatoes, washed and quartered 1 ⁄2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon roasted garlic, puréed 1 ⁄4 cup butter 1 ⁄4 cup half and half 1 ⁄4 cup milk 1 ⁄8 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1 ⁄8 teaspoon white pepper, or to taste 1 tablespoon garlic chives, minced

1. Place potatoes and salt in sauce pan and cover with water. Boil until fork tender.

2. Drain well. Add the garlic purée and mix in with hand mixer.

3. Add the butter and blend in well.

Add the half and half, mix and then enough of the milk for the desired consistency.

4. Add seasonings to taste and chives, then give a final mix.

she said. “They know they get to come in, and nine times out of 10 I am able to do something for them.

The staff will come and get me and I’ll come out and talk with the guest.

If it’s a not-busy evening, sometimes I will cook something off the menu for them.”

A key ingredient is the Kohlers’ backyard herb garden, allowing Cinda to fill in any blanks on her culinary palette.

“It is so fun to go out every morning and take my basket, but now instead of lemon-thymed couscous, we’re calling it herbed couscous,” she said. “Last year, I almost killed the plant because I cut so much off it.”

Gardening is one of her hobbies.

Reading is the other.

“She reads cookbooks,” Ron said with a laugh.

Cinda smiled, rubbed her forehead, and admitted, “I do. Cooking really is my relaxation.”

A native of Everett, Wash., her culinary career began as a teen cook at a church camp before matriculating to CWU, initially for accounting.

After graduating, she operated a successful catering business for 10 years.

“The joy in owning a restaurant is that I don’t have to cart all those dishes anymore — and people come to ME!” she said, punctuated with a smile.

In between the catering and Pearl’s on Pearl came several years as espresso entrepreneurs in Texas.

“The espresso craze was really taking off, and we had a friend in Dallas who said we needed to do drivethrough down there,” Cinda said.

“There was no drive-through and Ron picked a fabulous corner. The area supervisor for Starbucks used to come through our drive-through.

And the first two drive-through Starbucks were in Allan, Texas, in 1996 — the same town we were in.”

The Kohlers deem Texas as “a great little adventure, but it was hot there and this was home,” Cinda

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M AT C H M A K E R S said. “This space had been a jazz club, and we had our eye on it. It took a bit of remodeling to put a kitchen in it.”

They kept the 100-year-old bricks, as well as the jazz.

“There are a few removable bricks that people leave notes in, and you can’t really manufacture this kind of authenticity,” she said. “It’s been a great location; it’s wonderful to be across the street from a hardware store, and we’re having fun.”

It’s a true family affair, too, with daughter Keesha as the dessert chef.

And adding to the enjoyment has been associating with winemakers throughout the state.

“We are growing Zinfandel in Washington now, so we have removed all California Zinfandel from our menu,” Cinda said.

Ironically, the Match Maker wine is The Pines 1852 Old Vine Zinfandel from the Oregon side of Columbia Gorge.

“There so much wonderful spice and dark fruit in this wine, and Zinfandel is an Italian grape, so I decided on this Italian Meatloaf that I run on the menu beginning in the fall,” Cinda said.

The Italian spices are not lost amid the Zinfandel, and tomatobased Pomodoro Sauce raises the wine’s profile of rich plums in amazing fashion. It’s not the first meatloaf recipe in the nine-year history of the Match Maker series, but Kohler’s deft touch takes this a bit beyond comfort food while staying within reach of those wanting to try it at home. ı Pearl’s on Pearl, 311 N. Pearl St., Ellensburg, Wash., 509-962-8899, www.pearlsonpearl.com ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting.

Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures.

Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate.

The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity.

The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Competitions To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Oregon State Fair, Northwest Wine Summit, Okanagan Fall Wine Competition, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Northwest Wine & Food Fest and Capital Food & Wine Fest.

Reds Cabernet Sauvignon Ash Hollow 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 250 cases, $28

Recommended. Valley fruit from this vintage was

rare, but Panoramic Vineyard produced. It’s a cherry and peppery drink accented by notes of oak and Candela leaf tobacco with understated tannins. Suggested fare includes hearty stews or filet mignon served with some famous onions.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2004 Alder Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 700 cases, $30

Excellent. A growing number of wineries are going vineyard designate using Horse Heaven Hills fruit, and this Walla Walla winery provides a fine example of why. The inclusion of Merlot (16%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Petit Verdot (3%) help produce cassis and berry notes amid the licorice and spice from French (67%) and American oak. On the pleasing palate are black cherry and blackberry flavors with vanilla notes that are ushered gently by smooth tannins.

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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $26

Recommended. This marked Bob Bertheau’s first

full vintage with Ste. Michelle, and 30-year-old vines provided him grapes for a wine built for the long haul. It’s front-loaded and focused on plums with black cherries, raspberries and warm oak in tow. Good acidity and assertive tannins will find a fine match with meat lasagna or pork ribs with a plum sauce.

Dunham Cellars 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon IX Columbia Valley, 1,955 cases, $45

Excellent. The Dunhams deal in Lewis Vineyard

for much of their portfolio, and this collectible Cab includes Frenchtown and Double River Estate vineyards. Opulent oak notes of cloves and licorice enhance the blueberries and pomegrante aromas, and there is some Old World herbal notes for complexity. Berries, spicy cherries and candied fruit make this Cab sing, and sweet tannins keep it yummy. Eric envisions a lifespan of 10-15 years.

Dunham Cellars 2004 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 389 cases, $75

Outstanding! One of the most expensive Cabs in the Northwest indeed ranks as one of the finest.

This Rattlesnake Ridge site provides the groundwork for Eric Dunham, and the product opens with blueberries, black cherries, French vanilla and chocolate aromatics. An entry of sweet boysenberries and black cherries is met by great structure and plush tannins. Underlying blueberries keep dripping into the finish.

Feather 2004 Columbia Valley, 1,176 cases, $55

Excellent. Famed Napa Valley vintner Randy

Dunn grabs only Cab for this project. Alder Ridge and Champoux combined for 34%, followed by Stillwater Creek (31%), then a blend of Dionysus and Weinbau. A greeting of beautiful oak includes black fruit and a walk-in humidor with a leather chair awaiting. It’s a boldly structured drink focused on black cherries and chocolate overtones from start to finish. Plenty of acidity should allow the assertive tannins to assimilate in impressive fashion.

Foundry Vineyards 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 500 cases, $30

Excellent. Talk about focus. At this point, Mark

Anderson makes this one wine. That said, the winery and estate Stonemarker Vineyard are owned by the Andersons, who also own the eponymous art gallery and foundry. Aromas of black currants, lanolin, coffee and dark chocolate dive into a lush structure filled with currant jam and marionberry. Heavy chocolate in the midpalate makes the tannins melt away.

Helix by Reininger 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 626 cases, $22

Outstanding! A lighter hand on the oak (92% used barrels) allows for more expression of fruit in this alternative label for Chuck Reininger.

Think blueberries and cream, and then some.

In the nose, add cassis. On the palate, it turns big and bold with ripe plums, black currants, leather and menthol notes.

Kestrel Vintners 2004 Kestrel View Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 1,516 cases, $22

Recommended. Kestrel’s estate vineyard north of

Prosser, Wash., was first planted in 1972, making it some of the state’s oldest vines. The grapes for this Cab came primarily from younger fruit, though about 10% were from those old Yakima Valley sentries. It opens with aromas of black cherries, black raspberries and hints of pie cherries, followed by flavors of blackberries, huckleberries, plums and cherry cordial ice cream. Pair with prime rib or flank steak.

Leonetti Cellar 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 2,417 cases, $75

Excellent. Few winemakers would publish praise of a vineyard manager. Yet, that’s the style of Gary and Chris Figgins, who credit Jason Magnaghi for diligence in regard to estate fruit that survived the famous freeze. A background of Merlot (19%), Cab Franc (3%) and Carmenere (1%) helped with aromatics of W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases plums, cassis, minced meat, crushed walnuts and black pepper. Youthful exuberance shows alongside rich and sweet flavors of plums, mountain berry acidity and malted milk balls.

It’s one of few from this forgettable Walla Walla Valley vintage and worth cherishing over time.

Mannina Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 61 cases, $27

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Don Redman must have some friends around Walla Walla and beyond. That would account for his fruit sources — Lewis, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Va Piano — during a vintage that crippled his valley. Step into a coffee shop for notes of hazelnuts, maple nut, vanilla and powdered Baker’s chocolate supported by plum and cherry aromas. The attack is very plummy and rich with black cherries, joined in the midpalate by anise liquor and vanilla.

Approachable tannins and a finish of lingonberries will reward a rare and thick T-bone.

Marshal’s Winery 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, $20

Recommended. Talk about an open invite. Ron

Johnson, aka “Ron John,” says folks can drop by his Columbia Gorge winery until midnight.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WINE REVIEWS

They no doubt ask about this wine. Wonderful plum and cherry notes dominate, joined by vanilla, then bittersweet chocolate tannins in the finish.

Reininger Winery

Nelms Road

grapes and a pleasant return for us. Aromas are reminiscent of chocolate cake with raspberry filling, along with coffee and sarsparilla. Dark cherries explode on the entry with more lush chocolate on the sweet and soft midpalate that makes this especially delicious in the short term.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 3,705 cases, $21

Excellent. Restaurants with wine stewards in the know often will list this other label by Rick Small and Woodward Canyon. His fans will drool over the toasted blackberry mocha nose that’s more of the same in the mouth with plums and creaminess. It’s a muscular, fullbodied Cab that’s balanced, boding well for another five years — or now with roasted chicken.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,910 cases, $50

Recommended. The bad winter freeze in Walla

Walla forced Jean-Francois to drive to Cold Creek, Canoe Ridge and Weinbau for this blend of Cab Sauv with Merlot (7%), Cab Franc (5%) and Malbec. He came back with aromas of Reese’s peanut butter cups, blueberries, mince meat, vanilla and coffee. More blueberries squeeze out on the tongue, along with grape Jolly Rancher candy, vanilla extract and coffee.

Its structure is more from zesty acidity than tannins.

2003 Ash Hollow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 598 cases, $32

Excellent. It was a very short trip for these

Reininger Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 1,148 cases, $32

Outstanding! Charles “Thirty-Two Buck Chuck” Reininger doesn’t disappoint with Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills fruit that allows for inviting blueberries aromas amid tony oak notes of coffee, tobacco and charcoal. A tip of the glass turns into a hedonistic drink of smooth blueberries and chocolate that’s soothing and sultry. To quote one panel member: “I would have sex with this if I could.”

Tamarack Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 924 cases, $32

Outstanding! Only a smattering of Walla Walla Valley fruit was available to Ron Coleman (Heather Hill Vineyard), but he skillfully tapped into Sagemoor, DuBrul, Tapteil, Weinbau (Cab

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Franc 9%) and Bacchus (Merlot 7%). They yielded notes of ripe blackberries, black cherries, graham cracker, sweet herbs, smoke and a dusting of chocolate. Its structure is one of acidity over tannin, which bodes well for the future.

drink it now, break out the finest cuts of meat and cook ’em rare. Otherwise, you could hide this in the cellar for a half-decade or more.

Watermill Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 240 cases, $30

Three Rivers Winery 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 320 cases, $50

Outstanding! The only winemakers who might not

admit to the greatness of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes coming from Paul Champoux’s vineyard are those who can’t get them. Those who do — including Three Rivers winemaker Holly Turner — swear by this famed Horse Heaven Hills vineyard. This is a red whose stature is only beginning to reveal itself, yet it’s already so delicious. It opens with aromas of lush, ripe blackberries, cloves, chocolate and even a hint of cranberries. The palate is greeted with a bold entry that includes rich flavors of blackberries and dark plums. Intriguing notes of spiced cranberry sauce rumble across the palate with perfectly balanced tannins and bittersweet chocolate on the finish. If you must

Outstanding! Richard Funk of Saviah Cellars fame added the winemaking duties at this new operation in Milton-Freewater, Ore. He’s not dinking around, either, evidenced by fruit from McClellan Estate, Lewis Vineyard and Kiona.

Cherry cola, coffee, licorice and vanilla aromatics set the table for a dark, rich entry of blackberries, plums and boysenberries. There’s great structure, upright tannins and acidity for aging, if you can wait.

Woodward Canyon 2004 Artist Series #13 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 3,153 cases, $44

Outstanding! Perhaps no other Northwest wine-

makers builds their Cabs with as much ageability as does Rick Small. This already is stunning, in large part because of the sources — Champoux, Klipsun, Sagemoor, Tapteil and

Woodward Canyon Estate. New French Chateaux oak swaddles aromas of black cherries, chokecherries, tea and black olives.

Mouth-coating chocolate and black currants and blackberries dominate, making for terrific length and a tremendous drink from front to back. Predicted life goes 10 years and beyond.

Woodward Canyon 2004 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,005 cases, $75

Outstanding! Historic Walla Walla figure George Dacres is depicted in the No. 24 edition of the Dedication Series by historic winemaker Rick Small. Hand-harvested Cab off Champoux (59%) and Sagemoor (37%) gets a bit bolder by the addition of Petit Verdot from Woodward Canyon Estate. Spicy chocolate and a wealth of oak aromas set the stage for a big and bold drink. Bushels of black cherries and currants, a bit of bacon, leather and smooth vanilla are so broadly shouldered, it’s as if there’s a dose of testosterone inside.

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 ($18 Canadian) and under.

Camas Prairie Winery

Columbia Crest

2005 Champoux Vineyard Lemberger

2003 Two Vines Merlot-Cab

Washington, 250 cases, $13

Columbia Valley, 38,650 cases, $10

Recommended. Long-term relationships and fair business practices keep

Recommended. On a blend like this, the dominant grape is named first. In

the great fruit coming Stu Scott’s way. And this Idaho winemaker opts to charge about half what some others would. Cherry pipe tobacco, Bing cherries and chocolate extend in every direction and into the finish where the food-friendly acidity lingers. Enjoy this at the holiday table or with a barbecue.

this case, Merlot is the higher percentage. This affordable Bordeauxstyle red is from an extremely warm vintage and was built to age on the way home from the store. It shows off appealing aromas of blackberries, black cherries and even Red Delicious apple peel, followed by flavors of pomegranates, bright cherries and vanilla. It’s a gentle wine on the entry with moderate acidity, and mild tannins provide just enough backbone to pair this with pizza, meatloaf or grilled meats.

Chuckanut Ridge Wine Co. 2005 Crawford Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 150 cases, $15

Glen Fiona

Recommended. John Powers toasted a new tasting room in downtown

Columbia Valley, 672 cases, $15

Bellingham, Wash., with his fourth vintage, and he continues his success with this vineyard in Prosser. Sweet black cherries, plums, horehound and pomegranate notes run throughout with leather and oak tones.

Claar Cellars 2003 White Bluffs Sangiovese

2004 Syrah Excellent. It’s next to impossible to find a Syrah crafted in Walla Walla at

this price, yet here’s a flashy release by William Ammons off Smasne Vineyards. This spent a year in stainless steel, then went on to neutral French oak. Coffee, cherry cough syrup and herbaceous aromas drop into an elegance of cherry fruit and cordial cherry flavors, with tannins that add a bit of grip.

Columbia Valley, 234 cases, $15

Ste. Chapelle

Excellent. Growing numbers embrace this Italian grape, and this Pasco,

2004 Winemaker’s Series Syrah

Wash., winery sends out another pleasant, food-worthy release.

Raspberries, cherries, tamarind, vanilla and pipe tobacco whirl over the glass. Zesty red fruit follows with pomegranate acidity in the middle, bittersweet chocolate tannins and strawberries in the finish.

Idaho, 2,000 cases, $8

Columbia Crest 2004 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 110,000 cases, $11

Outstanding! We stand in awe of winemaker Ray Einberger and his

winemaking crew and their ability to craft such a great wine at such immense quantities. What’s the secret? Grapes, of course! The viticulture crew puts thousands of miles on its collective cars cruising through Eastern Washington to track the progress of estate and contracted grapes. This attention to detail shows up beautifully with aromas of dark chocolate, blackberries and violets, followed by flavors of black plums, red currants and semi-sweet chocolate. It’s a distinctive and juicy Cab. Buy a case and make this your house wine.

Outstanding! Whenever the topic of Northwest bargains pops up, Ste. Chapelle gets an early mention. An example can be found in this glass. Red fruit notes and textures run rampant, including Olalla berries and Christmas wreath spice aromas. There’s a lush entry with cherry fruit, judicious use of oak, a bit of herbal bitterness and bright acidity that doesn’t quit. Alcohol is not the issue as with much Washington-made Syrah, so try with alder-smoked salmon.

Three Rivers Winery 2005 River’s Red Columbia Valley, 1,960 cases, $13

Recommended. Merlot (40%) makes up much of the blend with Cab

(27%), Cab Franc (21%) and notable Syrah, which is revealed in the blackberry nose, along with pie cherries, cigar leaf, damp earth and herbal qualities. Cherries and chocolate gush out on the entry, the Cab Franc shows in the strawberry/rhubarb and leafy midpalate, and Cab-like tannins give it some grip to the end.

Columbia Crest

Whidbey Island Winery

2004 Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon

2004 Lemberger

Columbia Valley, 115,000 cases, $8

Yakima Valley, 150 cases, $14

Outstanding! Or should we say, astounding. Juan Muñozoca and his red

Outstanding! Greg Osenbach’s history with this often-overlooked grape goes beyond 1995, and he’s got a successful arrangement with Crawford Vineyards in Prosser, Wash. Hints of ripe plums, blackberries, green bell pepper, chocolate and Liquid Smoke funnel into a bold black fruit entry.

Oak and refined tannins, akin to a Pinot Noir, come through in enjoyable fashion. Black cherries and mushrooms appear in a youthful finish.

teammates elicit aromas of black cherries, blueberries, ripe black plums with oak notes of vanilla and Baker’s chocolate. Lush and bold blueberries with vanilla flavors lead the way with chocolatey tannins and berry acidity to follow. Opulence abounds at such an amazing price.

Zerba Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 988 cases, $30

Outstanding! Cecil Zerba continues to expand his production, but he didn’t lose sight of this Cab. He stayed close to home — going over to Dad’s Vineyard as well as Kelly, Lafore and Winesap Road — for all the grapes, even the Merlot (10%) and Cab Franc. Purple fruit and nice minerality, not oak, are the base nasal notes.

Blackberry, spicy plum and blueberry flavors W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

keep you focused on the elegant layers inside.

The wealth of acidity even overwhelms the tannins, which is rare for a Cab.

Pinot Noir

this is a blend of six clones off his vineyard.

Notes of ripe Bing cherries, spicy rhubarb and toasted hazelnuts abound and come through on a very layered midpalate and lingering finish.

Elk Cove Vineyards

Cancilla Cellars

2005 La Bohéme Pinot Noir

2005 Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 460 cases, $38

Willamette Valley, 250 cases, $33

Recommended. A more traditional vintage and

Excellent. Kan Cancilla’s estate in Gaston, Ore.,

Pommard clones in this 20-year-old site combined to produce a food-friendly Pinot that

is just outside the Yamhill-Carlton District, and

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recent releases Merlot

abounds with cherries, moist earth, leather, cedar, white pepper and age-worthy acidity rather than tannin.

Assertive tannins and intriguing teriyaki notes sit amazingly in the background because of all the fruit flavors. Enjoy with beef carpaccio.

Silvan Ridge

Stangeland Vineyards & Winery

2005 Reserve Pinot Noir

2005 Vintage Selection Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 325 cases, $28

Eola-Amity Hills, 275 cases, $30

Outstanding! Elton and Bradshaw vineyards

Recommended. Sourced from Siol O’Cain in the

Horse Heaven Hills, 270 cases, $35

gave Jonathan Oberlander the building blocks for a beautiful and silky Pinot Noir. He delivers the inviting aromatics of raspberries, pie cherries, cedar and green peppercorns on the palate. A sense of sugared pie cherries brings a bit of sweetness to the juicy palate that’s smooth with mouth-watering acidity and balanced tannins.

north with Bethany Heights in the south, the dense aromatics feature black cherries, raspberries, earthiness, green beans and a cigar bar’s leather chair. Cherries carry through to the palate with big raspberry acidity in the midpalate that leads to firm tannins and pie cherries on the finish. Enjoy with lasagna draped in a rich meat sauce.

Excellent. The stylistic Syrah carries a bit more

Stangeland Vineyards & Winery

Stangeland Vineyards & Winery

2005 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir

2005 Winemaker’s Estate Reserve Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 130 cases, $32

Willamette Valley, 99 cases, $50

Ash Hollow

Excellent. Larry Miller’s Salem, Ore., estate is

Excellent. Warm cherries, cinnamon and oak

2005 Syrah

nearly 30 years old now, and this is among his best efforts. Field-fresh strawberries, rhubarb, pie cherries, plums, cola and soy sauce get the juices flowing. The same fruit is there on the entry and throughout with blackberry acidity.

aromas barely hint at the coming of bombastic flavors. Black cherries and blackberries make this a dark, bold, balanced and leather winery that deserves the healthy leanness of a flank steak.

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See our Merlot report beginning on Page 60.

Syrah Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2004 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Block 17 Syrah

Rhône influence than most, not just because Viognier (2%) is present at fermentation, but also Roussanne (5%). Jarrod Boyle saw it go into French oak for 18 months so hints of Bing cherries and plums are framed nicely by notes of malted milk balls. Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate chips join plum juice flavors amid balanced acidity and most agreeable milk chocolate tannins.

Walla Walla Valley, 450 cases, $28

Recommended. An inaugural release of estate fruit

— the western-most site in the AVA — shows promise with lots of blueberries and citrus in the aromas. Pomegranate, chocolate and

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recent releases Colombian coffee flavors follow in this lighter expression of the Rhône variety.

Barnard Griffin Winery 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 5,069 cases, $17

Outstanding! Thankfully, Rob Griffin hasn’t strayed from his pricing structure for his well-constructed “tulip” label wines. Blackberries slap you in the face, along with black pepper, black currants, plums, some strawberry leaf and cola aromas.

The entry is gentle, smooth and plummy with blackberry and blueberry acidity on the midpalate. There’s a chocolaty overtone to the tannins that merely give it a kick over the finish line.

Claar Cellars 2003 White Bluffs Syrah Columbia Valley, 252 cases, $17

Outstanding! This showpiece botting from estate

fruit in Pasco, Wash., is telltale Syrah in many ways, starting with aromas of blackberries, black pepper and plums, but there’s also black cherries, cassis, chocolate and moist earth. Rich dark berries take center stage on the tongue with smooth tannins and bright lingering acidity. Two years in French oak were definitely rewarded.

Cuillin Hills Winery 2005 The Dungeon Syrah Washington, 188 cases, $27

Recommended. This Syrah from Windy Ridge,

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Snipes Canyon and Wahluke Slope vineyards shows a sense of darkness with a labyrinth of structure. Black cherries amid heavy oak aromas wander into blackberries on the attack with charry oak, pleasingly tart black cherries and anise in the finish.

Cuillin Hills Winery 2005 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 120 cases, $32

Excellent. Woodinville, Wash., winemaker Derek

DesVoignes tapped into Seven Hills (83%) and Les Collines (17%) for a straight Syrah.

Cherries, moist earth and violets set the table for flavors of cherry jam, black pepper and flint.

In fact, it’s jammy all through to a return of violets in the finish.

WINE REVIEWS

Dunham Cellars 2004 Lewis Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 395 cases, $75

Outstanding! Eric Dunham puts a great deal of creativity into this bottle, starting with his stunning painting of a blueberry on the label.

Indeed, it’s big on blackberries, plums, cherries, leather, mineral and oak in the nose. Take a teaspoon of berry compote and go from there.

Long, lush and flavorful, the structure focuses on acidity over tannin. Plums, berries and pomegranate syrup drip in the finish. The family sees this as his best effort since 1999. No argument here.

Dutch John’s Private Reserve 2005 Milbrandt Syrah Washington, 42 cases, $19

Dunham Cellars 2004 Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,686 cases, $45

Excellent. This one is 100% Lewis Vineyard

fruit with a broader production and not as pricy as the premier Dunham Syrah. Red currants, raspberries, orange zest, juniper berries, green peppercorns and dried tobacco emerge to greet. The palate is focused on purple fruit in the form of President plums and black raspberries, and there’s a thickness of texture. Round and sweet tannins give way to clove spice in the finish.

Recommended. Thorsen Wines in downtown

Wenatchee, Wash., drove down the Columbia River to the Wahluke Slope for Milbrandt brothers fruit, and the oak influence in this rustic release is obvious. There also are dense notes of black fruit and black pepper along with a sense of smoked meat that bodes well for barbecued ribs.

Dutch John’s Private Reserve 2005 Riverbend Syrah Washington, 45 cases, $17

Excellent. As the story goes, a German immi-

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grant Dutch John was the first winemaker in Wenatchee, Wash., and planted 20 acres of vineyard along Stemilt Creek in Malaga. Almost a 150 years later, Thorsen Wines produced a Syrah chocked full of juicy blackberries, black pepper, black cherries and shaved chocolate.

vest allowed Marty Clubb to develop a classic Syrah loaded with dark fruit notes with cloves, mocha, a whiff of bacon fat and rich earth. A smooth entry of black cherries leads into a spicy midpalate with a wealth of structure and tannin.

Five Star Cellars

Naches Heights Vineyard

2005 Syrah

2005 Syrah

Walla Walla Valley, 500 cases, $30

Columbia Valley, 108 cases, $18

Excellent. Matt Huse reaches into Les Collines and

Excellent. This first red release from a young

Spofford Station for grapes that helped him produce aromatics of blackberries, black pepper, tobacco, red currants and brownies. Those same notes spill out across in a rustic and rich fashion, including an underlying minerality, some mince meat and a dusting of cocoa powder in the finish.

Yakima Valley operation is fifth-leaf fruit off a site that’s at 1,800 feet elevation on the Goat Rocks lava flow. Hints of black currants, cherries, red peppercorns and olives meet black tea tannins and pie cherry acidity in the midpalate that hangs on with enjoyable tartness. Try with braised ribs or veal.

Glen Fiona 2003 Syrah

Otis Kenyon Wine

Walla Walla Valley, 689 cases, $20

2005 Syrah

Excellent. There’s no shortage of food-friendly

Walla Walla Valley, 300 cases, $28

acidity, thanks to William Ammons and fruit from Forgotten Hills, Rizutti Vineyards and Morrison Lane. Telltale signs of Syrah bacon notes, along with citrus, mint, almond and alfalfa aromas. A smooth and elegant entry is full of dark red and black fruit, and its straight-forward structure is ready to enjoy now with such suggested fare as duck or lamb.

Outstanding! Hired gun Dave Stephenson prefers to stay behind the scenes, but it’s going to be impossible considering his work at this young winery. Here’s their inaugural Syrah, and it’s a jaunty one at that with abundant notes of red plums, black pepper, mint, eucalyptus and oak.

Rich, but not overripe, fruit from Cougar Hills and estate Stellar sites strikes great balance in streamline fashion, capped with more pepper in the finish.

Kestrel Vintners 2004 Kestrel View Estate Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley, 992 cases, $22

San Juan Vineyards

Recommended. Black cherry and black currant

2004 Syrah

candy — an influence of Elephant Mountain Merlot (15%) — cedar, lavender, vanilla and plum notes receive an escort from pleasing tannins and ushered out by a hit of bittersweet chocolate.

Yakima Valley, 560 cases, $19

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 1,015 cases, $37

Recommended. Phelps clone fruit and a cool har-

Outstanding! Fruit from Kestrel View Estate in Prosser, Wash., found a great home in the barrels at this Friday Harbor, Wash., winery. Hints of enchanting black fruit, milk chocolate and menthol aromas reappear in explosive fashion on the palate. Black cherries and pomengranate gain a heaviness on the midpalate with some meatiness and mushrooms. Chocolate in

the finish soothes what little tannin there is.

Saviah Cellars 2005 Red Mountain Syrah Red Mountain, 224 cases, $32

Recommended. A Walla Walla winery offers a look

at a high point on Red Mountain from Ranch at the End of the (Sunset) Road Vineyard. Expect to find blueberry, mint, mineral and leather hints, then a taste of juicy blackberries with chocolate in a smooth and elegant structure.

Saviah Cellars 2004 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 117 cases, $30

Outstanding! It’s another winner off this breathtaking Royal City, Wash., site for Walla Walla producer Richard Funk. Aromas include cassis, cherries, spiced plums and milk chocolate.

Dark, brooding plums and black cherries with mocha push on the entry, joined by some bacony notes and fruit leather. Rich tannins add muscle, giving the sense this has not yet reached its potential. Wait a while if you can.

Saviah Cellars 2005 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 345 cases, $32

Outstanding! A bounceback vintage in the WWV gave Richard Funk plenty to pick from. Taking from Les Collines and Va Piano, he produced a scintillating Syrah featuring blackberries, cherries, black pepper and tobacco aromas.

Brambleberries carry on through to a spicy entry with plum sauce notes. Terrific balance rides the seam of acidity and tannin, then there’s a crescendo of bacon fat on top of all that fruit.

Tamarack Cellars 2004 Syrah Columbia Valley, 616 cases, $28

Excellent. The time and care Ron Coleman takes

in Walla Walla is apparent here, starting the list

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recent releases of fruit from Destiny Ridge (25%), Goose Ridge (25%), Bacchus, Ciel du Cheval, Candy Mountain and Wooded Island. Showy barrel treatment doesn’t quite outshine the dark blue fruit, bacon and earthy aromas. Plums, blackberries and bacon make for a smooth and rich entry that lingers to the end with some tannins in between. Its softer structure should be experienced within 1-2 years.

Tertulia Cellars 2005 Les Collines Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 159 cases, $29

Recommended. This vineyard in the foothills of the

Blue Mountains contributes behind the scenes to many wines, and it’s refreshing to see it showcased. Mountain berries, mocha, chalkboard dust and a sense of gaminess make this approachable on its own or enjoyable with a hunter’s prize.

Three Rivers Winery 2004 Syrah Columbia Valley, 433 cases, $24

Excellent. This release is a third of the production

compared with the pre-freeze vintage as Holly Turner sourced from Sundance, Weinbau and Windy Ridge. Dark blackberries and a bit of earth are warmly embraced by French oak (35% new) and tannins that blossom across the palate. That black fruit follows along through the finish, where a sizzling Thundering Hooves filet mignon would be quite fitting.

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Trio Vintners 2004 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley, 170 cases, $24

Recommended. This new Walla Walla incubator

project shows its commitment by going after some of the most famous fruit in the state.

Tasty notes of cherries, cocoa powder, coffee and a bit of green apple kick around this masculine wine that’s easy to embrace because of its silky smooth tannins.

Trust Cellars 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $28

Excellent. Steve Brooks is new to Walla Walla,

but he’s jumped right up with his first releases.

Goose Ridge, Va Piano and Portteus fruit gave him a base coat of brambleberries, bacon fat, charcoal and umeboshi paste. It’s a big and busty bottling, but it’s built to last with acidity and tannins or enjoy now with some baby back ribs. A long plummy finish has a dash of pepper and a flick of cigar ash.

Watermill Winery 2005 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 240 cases, $32

Outstanding! Richard Funk, a winemaking veteran in the valley, immediately put this brand new Milton-Freewater, Ore., operation on the map.

Stone Valley, Les Collines and Va Piano set him up with hints of plums, bacon fat, mineral,

WINE REVIEWS

chalkboard dust and truck stop coffee. An easy entry of black cherries and more plums add layers of lusciousness for a pleasing and syrupy Syrah.

Zerba Cellars 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 887 cases, $28

Excellent. Dad’s Vineyard was handy to this

Milton-Freewater, Ore., winery, but the Zerbas also rounded out this release with fruit from Willard and Minnick vineyards in Prosser, Wash. Bosco Chocolate Syrup with cherries and plums fill your face, and inside are rich and juicy blackberries and dark plums. Restrained tannins make it tough to put down.

Sangiovese Five Stars Cellars 2005 Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley, 300 cases, $28

Recommended. This Italian grape makes for great food wine, and Matt Huse keeps the acidity up just for that. There’s a splash of Merlot (4%) among the fruit from Neuffer (Nicholas Cole) and Pepper Bridge. The nose includes raspberry Pop Rocks candy, Chukar cherries, candied plums and milk chocolate.

Violets and mountain berry flavors blend into smooth bright cherries with a chocolately and velvety mouth feel.

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recent releases NORTHWEST WINE REGIONS

Leonetti Cellar 2005 Sangiovese

Northwest appellations

Walla Walla Valley, 871 cases, $55

The following are official viticultural regions in the Pacific Northwest.

Tuscan style via Cabernet Sauvignon (11%) as well a touch of Walla Walla with Syrah (13%), incorporating estate sites at Mill Creek Upland, Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge. Indeed, notes of each variety come through in the nose with pie cherries, blueberries, black pepper and leather. An entry of sweet black cherries carries with it a line of minerality and cherry-tomato acidity. True to form, a bottle of this will make any meal with a tomato-based Italian dish extra special.

Washington Columbia Valley: This multi-state appellation is 11 million acres in size and takes up a third of Washington. It encompasses the Yakima and Walla Walla valleys, Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills and Wahluke Slope. It was established in 1984.

Yakima Valley: The Northwest’s oldest appellation (established in 1983) stretches from Wapato in the west to Benton City in the east and includes Red Mountain and Rattlesnake Hills. The Yakima Valley has about 11,000 acres of wine grapes.

Walla Walla Valley: This multi-state appellation is in the southeast corner of Washington. The Walla Walla Valley is 300,000 acres in size with about 1,000 acres of wine grapes planted. It was established in 1984.

Red Mountain: Washington’s smallest appellation is a ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley. It is 4,040 acres in size with about 800 acres of mostly red wine grapes planted. It was established in 2001.

Horse Heaven Hills: This large appellation — 570,000 acres — is south of the Yakima Valley and stretches to the Oregon border. It has more than 6,000 acres of wine grapes planted. It was established in 2005.

Wahluke Slope: Approved in early 2006, this huge landform north of the Yakima Valley is an 81,000-acre gravel bar created by the Ice Age Floods. More than 5,000 acres are planted in this AVA, which is one of the warmest regions in the entire Pacific Northwest. It was established in 2006.

Excellent. Chris Figgins crafted this in a Super

Mannina Cellars 2005 Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley, 123 cases, $22

Recommended. In just its second vintage, this

Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation begins around the town of Lyle and heads west to Husum on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It was established in 2004.

Walla Walla Valley producer is crafting luscious wines from top vineyards. This Chianti-style red hails from Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Va Piano vineyards. It opens with elegant aromas of cherries and orange pekoe tea, followed by flavors of red currants and black tea. Should be a perfect match with teriyaki beef, as we noticed intriguing tones of soy sauce.

Oregon

Trio Vintners

Rattlesnake Hills: Washington’s newest appellation is in the western Yakima Valley north of the towns of Zillah, Granger and Outlook.The appellation is 68,500 acres in size with about 1,300 acres of vineyards. It was established in 2006.

Puget Sound: This sprawling appellation is in Western Washington. It stretches from the Olympia area to the Canadian border north of Bellingham. It also sweeps through the San Juan Islands and to Port Angeles. Fewer than 100 acres of wine grapes are planted. It was established in 1995.

Willamette Valley: Oregon’s largest appellation stretches roughly from Portland to Eugene. It was established in 1984.

Ribbon Ridge: This is the Northwest’s smallest appellation at 3,350 acres. It is best known for its Pinot Noir and is within the Chehalem Mountains AVA. It was established in 2005.

Yamhill-Carlton District: This appellation has more than 650 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir. It is a horseshoe-shaped appellation that surrounds the towns of Yamhill and Carlton. It was established in 2005.

Chehalem Mountains: The most-recently approved Oregon AVA also is the largest within the Willamette Valley. This 62,100-acre appellation is northeast of the Dundee Hills. It was established in 2006.

Dundee Hills: Many of Oregon’s pioneer wineries are in the Dundee Hills within Oregon’s Yamhill County. The appellation is 6,490 acres in size with nearly 1,300 acres of planted vineyards. It was established in 2005.

Eola-Amity Hills: This important region stretches from the town of Amity in the north to the capital city of Salem in the southeast. It is 37,900 acres in size and has 1,300 acres planted. It was established in 2006.

2005 Sangiovese Wahluke Slope, 150 cases, $18

Excellent. Three co-winemakers in Walla Walla have put their heads together, and they deserve a hand for this Chianti-blend with Barbera (14%). Fruit from Milbrandt and Tasawik vineyards shines from behind a veil of oak that’s lifted for a base of black cherries, blackberries and raspberries. Ripe plums add to the delicious dark chocolate midpalate with zesty food-friendly acidity that stays just ahead of the tannins.

McMinnville: The hills south and west of the Yamhill County city of McMinnville is more than 40,000 acres in size and contains about 600 acres of wine grape vineyards. It was established in 2005.

Walla Walla Vintners

Umpqua Valley: This Southern Oregon appellation surrounds the city of Roseburg north of the Rogue Valley. It can produce Pinot Noir as well as warm-climate grapes. It was established in 1984.

Columbia Valley, 850 cases, $22

Rogue Valley: The Northwest’s southern-most appellation surrounds the cities of Medford and Ashland, just north of the California border. It is known for its warm growing conditions. It was established in 2001.

Applegate Valley: This small valley within the Rogue Valley is known for a multitude of microclimates that can result in wines of distinction and complexity. It was established in 2004.

Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation is around and south of the city of Hood River. It was established in 2004.

Southern Oregon: This large AVA encompasses the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys and Red Hill Douglas County appellations. It was established in 2005.

2005 Sangiovese Excellent. Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri teamed for a rather succulent Super-Tuscan approach. Blueberries, cedar, sarsparilla, white pepper and chocolate shavings set the stage for a round entry of dark berries and black cherries.

A leathery and chocolate midpalate gives away to influences of Malbec (9%) and Syrah (8%) in the tannin structure and syrupy smooth finish.

Red Hill Douglas County: This tiny appellation — just 5,500 acres — is within the Umpqua Valley. Fewer than 200 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir, are grown here. It was established in 2005.

Snake River Valley: The Northwest’s newest appellation is in southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon. It covers 8,263 square miles.

British Columbia Okanagan Valley: In the province’s interior, this 100-mile valley stretches from the border in Osoyoos to Salmon Arm in the north. Most wineries are near Oliver, Penticton and Kelowna. Spelling note: In Washington, the county, river and city are spelled “Okanogan.” It was established in 1990.

Similkameen Valley: This warm valley is west of the southern Okanagan Valley. It was established in 1990.

Vancouver Island: This marine-influenced appellation is in the southwest part of the province. It was established in 1990.

Fraser Valley: This farming area is in the Lower Mainland, south of Vancouver. It was established in 1990.

Gulf Islands: This appellation, the province’s newest, includes approximately 100 islands spread out between Vancouver Island and the southern mainland. It was established in 2005.

Idaho Snake River Valley: The Northwest’s newest appellation is in southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon. It is 8,263 square miles and includes vineyards near the cities of Nampa and Caldwell, west of Boise.

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Malbec Five Star Cellars 2005 Malbec Walla Walla Valley, 120 cases, $38

Outstanding! Good friends, great fruit, marvelous wine. David Huse, patriarch of this father/son winemaking team, got talked into the business

by Pepper Bridge overlord Norm McKibben. His fruit and 100% new oak make this opulent.

Take a moment to gaze at its beauty in the glass, then breathe in violets, blueberries, cinnamon and Belgian chocolate. Inside, it’s loaded with purple berries amid a brooding and spicy texture. A long, lingering finish of black cherries includes a bit of cigar leaf. This is so approachable now, enjoy it with tri tips and portabello mushrooms.

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recent releases Three Rivers Winery 2005 Malbec Columbia Valley, 114 cases, $25

Excellent. Venerable vineyards Bacchus and

Sagemoor near Pasco, Wash., contributed the Malbec (80%) and Cab Sauv (20%), respectively. Blueberries, green peppercorns, cola, sassafras and moist earth fill the nose. Black currants and blueberries bulge out in the mouth with berry acidity and minerality at the midpoint.

Dark chocolate melts over the integrated tannins, where there’s a bit of slate in the lengthy finish.

Red blends Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2004 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Destiny Red Horse Heaven Hills, 220 cases, $45

Recommended. A profile of super ripe strawberries and black raspberries with great acidity made a sellout of this estate blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (59%), Merlot (17%), Petit Verdot (13%), Malbec (8%) and Cab Franc. It’s built to cellar as well.

Sturdy tannins and a finish of sweet chocolate should make it fun to follow for decade.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2004 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Quarry Butte Red Horse Heaven Hills, 1,443 cases, $20

Excellent. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%),

Merlot (33%), Syrah (6%), Cab Franc (6%) and

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Malbec sends out aromas of black cherries, blackberries and plum notes along with tobacco and crushed herbs. A tilt of the glass brings a reward of sweet red plums and raspberries, fruit nicely framed by oak. There’s a juiciness and herbal note of thyme met by smooth plum-skin tannin in the finish.

WINE REVIEWS

tannin among the creaminess. Still, Caleb Foster suggests its best days are 3-10 years out.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Artist Series Meritage Columbia Valley, 1,200 cases, $48

Basel Cellars

Excellent. The 12th edition of this release fea-

2004 Ode to Merriment

tures the abstract art of Alden Mason and profiles Bob Bertheau’s Bordeaux blend of Cab Sauv (51%), Merlot (34%), Malbec (11%) and Petit Verdot from Canoe Ridge, Cold Creek and beyond. Fresh barrels dominate the aromas with tar, bittersweet chocolate and vanilla, but there’s a nice backing of dark cherries and blueberries, too. Blue and black berries on the attack are joined by more of the chocolate, black olives and tobacco. Its rustic nature and acidity would go well with barbecued meats.

Columbia Valley, 400 cases, $48

Recommended. There was no true Merriment from

estate fruit because of the 2004 freeze. Hence this “ode” blend of Cab Sauv (55%), Cab Franc (30%) and Merlot from the Cold Creek, Chelle Den Millie and Canoe Ridge vineyards. Trey Busch still produced notes of cocoa powder, red currants, cherries, coffee and earthy with the spotlight on acidity, followed by subdued tannins and nice length.

Buty Winery

Claar Cellars

2005 Merlot-Cabernet Franc

2002 White Bluffs Corneauxcopia

Columbia Valley, 420 cases, $35

Columbia Valley, 224 cases, $35

Excellent. This Walla Walla airport winery

Recommended. The Meritage-style release by

eschews a proprietary name for this memorable release from famed Conner Lee (80%) and Champoux sites. Incredible smoothness is the hallmark of this 61/39 blend. Aromas include blueberries, cinnamon, citrus and Cab Franc’s leafiness, followed by flavors of dark berries and Bing cherries. There’s a near absence of

winemaker Bruno Corneaux shows an Old World style in this blend of estate Cab Sauv (47%), Merlot (41%) and Cab Franc. Cherries and blackberry notes mix with artichoke hearts, earth and minerality in unobtrusive fashion. This would be delicious with an appetizer of sautéed mushrooms stuffed with blue cheese.

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Cuillin Hills Winery 2005 Claret Columbia Valley, 270 case, $23

Recommended. This Woodinville, Wash., winery

blends Merlot (51%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cab Franc from Horse Heaven Hills sites Alder Creek and Windy Ridge. Rich black cherries, coconut and white chocolate notes find depth among the wealth of acidity that should allow slightly chalky tannins to richly reward just a bit of patience.

Carmenére. Black cherries and boysenberries with notes of leather, toast and coffee are held high by racy acidity.

vors of fruit chutney, cherries, milk chocolate and candied apples. A fascinating wine we thought would pair well with a glazed ham.

Leonetti Cellar

Tertulia Cellars

2004 Reserve

2005 Red Table Wine

Walla Walla Valley, 670 cases, $110

Columbia Valley, 340 cases, $22

Excellent. There’s a break from tradition with this

Excellent. Ryan Raber reels in fruit from Lonesome Spring, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills West and Phinny Hill for a classic claret style of Cab Sauv (80%) with Cab Franc (8%), Malbec (7%) and Petit Verdot. Blackberries, cherries, cassis, cedar and sweet oak spice notes provide mouth-filling enjoyment. There’s a sense of volume and depth from the black fruit, yet its wellrestrained. A delicate touch of oak shows in the pleasing finish of smoke and vanilla bean.

vintage because this famous blend hails entirely from the estate Mill Creek Upland Vineyard.

Prescience established this site that allowed the Cab Sauv (78%), Merlot (11%) and Petit Verdot to survive the killing freeze. Discover boysenberries, eucalyptus and cafe mocha aromatics.

Black cherries and strawberry jam usher in its rich and penetrating midpalate, joined by minerality. It’s looking good now, and the zesty tannins will resolve with just a bit more patience.

Dunham Cellars 2005 Trutina Columbia Valley, 5,443 cases, $26

Recommended. This crowd pleaser with a broad reach is a blend of Cab Sauv (41%), Merlot (41%), Syrah (13%) and Cab Franc with signs of all. Blueberries, violets, pomegranates, minerality, black cherry and gun metal peek out in the nose. There’s more pomegranate juice and raspberries on the palate, accented by bright acidity and tannins with some traction that give way to red currants and leather notes at the end.

2005 Malbec-Merlot

NV Cali

Columbia Valley, 834 cases, $22

Walla Walla Valley, 331 cases, $17

Excellent. An unusual, yet straightforward, blend

Excellent. At first, we thought this wine might be

shows itself quite worthy. Snipes Canyon (Yakima Valley) with North Ridge (Wahluke Slope) contribute the Malbec, and Alder Creek (Horse Heavens) and Dionysus (Columbia Valley) the Merlot. Hints of blueberries, French roast coffee, a freshly oiled baseball glove and dusty cherries turn to flavors of blackberries and more juicy blueberries. A silky balance allows the midpalate of plums and boysenberries to carry on through.

named after a certain wine-producing state south of Oregon. Rather, it’s an homage to the winemaker’s grandmother, whose maiden name was Cali. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from four top Walla Walla Valley vineyards (Les Collines, Forgotten Hills, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills) and is nicely priced. It offers aromas of Bing cherries, maple syrup and even baked apples, followed by piquant fla-

Isenhower Cellars 2005 Red Paintbrush Walla Walla Valley, 734 cases, $26

Recommended. In years past, this blend has been

Merlot-based with Syrah, but a focus on the Walla Walla Valley prompted a blend of Cab Sauv (47%), Merlot (44%), Cab Franc (6%) and

Three Rivers Winery

Mannina Cellars

Saviah Cellars 2005 Une Vallée

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Walla Walla Valley, 304 cases, $32

Excellent. Richard Funk gathered in Cab Sauv

(62%) from Pepper Bridge, Merlot (31%) off Seven Hills and Cab Franc via the McClellan Estate and turned it over to 100% French oak.

Barrel notes dominate the nose, but mouthcoating black fruit takes over on the palate. If you like French oak, it’s quite easy to love this.

Valley View Winery 2003 Anna Maria Claret Rogue Valley, 655 cases, $24

Outstanding! Oregon pioneer Peter Britt’s name is famous around Jacksonville, and the Wisnovsky family vineyard in the Applegate Valley was first planted by him in the 1850s. This blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot seems a worthy tribute to Britt, starting with baked black cherry, marionberries, candied apple, Candela leaf tobacco and lavender aromas. The drink itself is quite layered, robust and smooth with dark berries and toasted oak notes. Serve up a ribeye with a dollop of blue cheese.

Other reds Kiona Vineyards and Winery 2005 Zinfandel Red Mountain, 327 cases, $25

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Outstanding! The Williams clan has been leading the way on many fronts for more than 30 years.

Scott Williams was one of the first in the Northwest to make Zin, and he’s got it dialed in.

Subtle aromas of strawberry fruit leather, watermelon, plums, black cherries and chocolate transition to distinctive plum flavors and tart maraschino cherries wrapped in chocolate-toned tannins.

Pleasant might best describe this release.

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recent releases Olympic Cellars Winery 2005 Champoux Vineyard Dungeness Red Lemberger Horse Heaven Hills, 300 cases, $16

Excellent. French winemaker Benoit Murat followed

up his impressive debut from the prior vintage, and he starts with some of the best fruit in the state. Its ruby-red Beaujolais color shows its youthful state as aromas of blueberries, cola, pepper and sandalwood kick in. Black currants and plums make for a plush and cushy entry with a juicy midpalate and lots of acidity for a variety of foods. Tannins and red peppercorns appear only at the end.

smoke from moss-covered alder. Tropical fruit flavors, predominantly pineapple, pick up pears and pleasing acidity.

Dutch John’s Private Reserve

WINE REVIEWS

ty of oak, then pineapple, precut apples and a whiff of petrol. Inside, it starts round with wood chips and popcorn, followed by yellow grapefruit flavors and clarified butter in the finish.

2004 Chardonnay

Skylite Cellars

Washington, 120 cases, $13

2006 Chardonnay

Recommended. A new winery in Wenatchee,

Wash., tailors this in the buttery style, and it gets better with each sip you take. There’s plen-

Yakima Valley, 112 cases, $14

Recommended. No need to leave Walla Walla for

a reasonably priced California-style

Valley View Winery 2004 Anna Maria Tempranillo Applegtate Valley, 405 cases, $30

Recommended. The Wisnovskys took cuttings from

Abacela in Roseburg, Ore., and grafted them onto 30-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines for a wine worthy of their top line. Loganberries, blackberies, cloves, stewed plums and tobacco notes are met by even-handed tannins and underripe blackberry acidity.

Viento Wines 2005 Lonesome Spring Ranch Barbera Columbia Valley, 170 cases, $20

Recommended. Pomegranates and spicy black

cherries take center stage in this Italian variety from a Benton City, Wash., planting. A foodfriendly structure includes tart pie cherries, plums, some herbaceousness and hints of orange juice acidity.

Walla Walla Vintners 2005 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 800 cases, $25

Excellent. This variety helped turn this red barn in

Walla Walla into a landmark in the Northwest wine industry. Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri venture through Cordon Grove, Dwelley, Sagemoor and Weinbau for the base, adding Merlot (24%) from Cordon Grove, Killian and Spring Creek.

Trademark barrel toast produces the favored Creme Brulee aromas along with pomegranate.

The drink is dark and lovely with black cherries, bittersweet chocolate and beautiful balance.

Suggested fare includes chicken breast with a tarragon cream sauce or halibut under hollandaise.

White wines Chardonnay Barnard Griffin Winery 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 14,140 cases, $12

Recommended. An approachable Chardonnay from Washington at an approachable price, it’s filled with fruit salad and apple components joined by some grassiness and minerality for complexity.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Ethos Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 2,400 cases, $32

Excellent. Atop the line of Chardonnays produced

by Ste. Michelle, Bob Bertheau strikes the balance between oak, Canoe Ridge Estate fruit and acidity. Dried apple rings and lemon curd aromas are joined by a tendril of campfire W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Chardonnay. Among the hints of toast are tropical fruit, gooseberry and mineral notes, along with pleasing acidity and a bit of citrus at the end.

and French toast with apple sauce. Sweetness at 3% softens the oak influence, and there’s ample acidity for balance.

Woodward Canyon Winery

Snoqualmie Vineyards

2006 Chardonnay

2006 Chardonnay

Washington, 727 cases, $36

Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, $8

Excellent. Rick Small goes full French oak,

Outstanding! It’s rare to gush about a

though only 40% of it is new, and he doesn’t disappoint the fans that come to know and love his style of Chardonnay. Wente clone fruit at both Celilo Vineyard (73%) overlooking the Columbia Gorge and his estate site near the Snake River contribute lime citrus and orchard fruit amid the toasty oak notes. There’s big butter and roasted nuts on the entry, yet amazing acidity shines through without any bitterness.

Chardonnay, but Joy Andersen created one of the best from this vintage, in part by adding some Viognier (5%). Pineapple, oranges, lemon zest, lavender, minerality, Graham crackers and a thin coating of butter begin to describe the aromas. Juicy Fruit, orange oil and lemon flavors stick along, and while there’s a lot of roundness, late acidity and minerality balance the perception of sweetness. A delicious pairing would be a blackened rockfish taco or halibut alongside fresh salsa with papaya and honeydew.

Riesling Anam Cara Cellars 2006 Nicholas Estate RIesling

Tsillan Cellars

Willamette Valley, 165 cases, $21

2005 Estate Barrel Select Chardonnay

Excellent. This Yamhill County, Ore., winery con-

Columbia Valley, 250 cases, $25

tinues its strong start by using grapes from its estate vineyard in the new Chehalem Mountains appellation. This superior Riesling is just the second harvest from a one-acre block, and it shows the potential of cooler-climate Rieslings in the Northwest. It opens with intriguing aromas of lemon meringue, apples and even a whiff of graham cracker. Though slightly off-dry (1.4% residual sugar), the sweetness merely adds roundness, thanks to superb acidity that balances the flavors of apples, peaches and minerals. Pair this with spicy Asian dishes.

Excellent. Each year, this Chelan, Wash., winery

produces one of the most attractive Chardonnays in the Northwest. Vineyards 6 years old produced fruit that Peter Devison put into new barrels for nine months. Oak, butter, cloves and apple peel filter out of the nose.

The attack starts with juicy pineapple flavors and includes smoky oak, fresh corn on the cob

Columbia Crest 2006 Grand Estates Riesling Columbia Valley, 12,500 cases, $11

Outstanding! Classic orchard notes as well as tropical features reach out from this complex release. Juicy pineapple flavors are joined by papaya, then give way to orange oil and Meyer lemon acidity to balance the sugar (2.5%) that’s finished with more apples. Food possibilities include grouper halibut with a lime/papaya/pepper salsa or chicken alongside a pineapplebased chutney.

Montinore Estate 2006 Riesling Sweet Reserve Willamette Valley, 3,646 cases, $12

Outstanding! They’ve changed the label but not the quality of the white program at this Forest Grove., Ore., operation. Delightful aromas of candy corn, cotton candy, cantaloupe, sugar cane and Niagara grape juice spill out into flavors of fresh pears and apples. A blast of tropical fruit on the midpalate provides mouth-watering acidity to balance the big dose of residual sugar (6%). Think of pears sprinkled with honey and cinnamon or partner up with a bowl of spicy pho.

Naches Heights Vineyard 2006 Riesling Columbia Valley, 120 cases, $16

Recommended. Phil Cline, former general manag-

er of the now-defunct Yakima Cellars, has struck out on his own with Naches Heights in Yakima. Winemaker Mark Wysling has crafted a

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luscious Riesling with aromas of ripe pears, grapefruit, orange zest and fresh midsummer plums and flavors of apples and apricots dripping with honey. Pair this with a spicy Vietnamese dish or Indian takeout that ends up with way too much spice.

San Juan Vineyards 2006 Riesling Yakima Valley, 608 cases, $14

Excellent. Just last year, Yvonne Swanberg

decided to add Riesling to the portfolio. It was an excellent idea, and it starts with Smasne Brothers fruit. Scents include apricot, honey, apple chips, drawn butter and Bananas Foster.

There’s even a sense of firewood on the beach. Pleasant features await with soft and fuzzy apricots, blood oranges and a sheen of butter. Lime-type acidity kicks in pleasantly at the finish to balance the bit of residual sugar (1.2%).

Three Rivers Winery 2006 Riesling Yakima Valley, 280 cases, $17

Excellent. Success enjoyed with their dessert

Gewürztraminer shows in this off-dry Riesling from Willard Farms. Classic notes of mineral, apricot, pear and honeycrisp apple are quite pleasing. Clean and bright acidity stretches out the crowd-pleasing residual sugar (4%).

Trio Vintners 2006 Lewis Vineyards Riesling Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $12

Recommended. Leave it to a Walla Walla winery

to help start a trend toward vineyard-designate Riesling. Easily accessible aromas of apple crisp and mineral feed into a Granny Smith apple entry with pears. The target of off-dry is hit, and a finish of fresh apricots adds balance.

Trust Cellars 2006 Riesling Columbia Valley, 180 cases, $18

Outstanding! Count owner/winemaker Steve Brooks among the many newcomers to Walla Walla, and he looks to have staying power. He gathered fruit from Weinbau (53%), Lonesome Spring, Dionysus, Koinonia and Phil Church, went after a Mosel style and found the mark, starting with hints of stone fruit, river rock, muskmelon and lime peel. A complex palate features pear with tropical fruit, and while there’s a touch of sugar cane sweetness (1%), a lime’s second squeeze offers both acidity and a touch of bitterness for food-friendly balance.

Tsillan Cellars 2006 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley, 420 cases, $18

Excellent. Inviting flint aromas receive company

from starfruit, lemon, lime and fresh caramel corn. Granny Smith apples lead the flavors into a balancing blast of grapefruit and lime reminiscent of Tom Collins mix. Pineapple picks up on the back end.

Tsillan Cellars 2006 Riesling Columbia Valley, 420 cases, $16

Recommended. Think of nearby orchards at this W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Chelan, Wash., winery and you’re on the right track. Pears, dried apricots, fresh-cut celery and fig notes are met by abundant acidity from a sugared yellow grapefruit.

pineapple, coconut and Granny Smith apple and more starfruit.

Elk Cove Vineyards 2006 Pinot Gris

Viento Wines

Willamette Valley, 13,412 cases, $19

2006 Underwood Mountain Vineyard Dry Riesling Columbia Gorge, 124 cases, $18

Recommended. Got a hankering for a margarita

but don’t want the tequila? Here’s an alternative because of the lime and sweetness. Herbal aromas of lavender, clover and dried grass pick up slightly underripe pears and citrus. The entry is a bit sweet, but that bright lime acidity kicks right in and stays along for the ride. Enjoy with Mexican fare.

Recommended. Adam Godlee Campbell sends out

a fine ambassador for Pinot Gris in Oregon.

Nectarines, gooseberries, Beeman’s gum, NECCO wafer and citrus swirl about. Fresh flavors are focused on the easy entry of orchard fruit and corn on the cob with good acidity and grapefruit tarntess at the end. A good foil would be Asian dishes, salmon or a “big salad.”

Hip Chicks Do Wine 2006 Pinot Gris

WINE REVIEWS

some, there’s a sense for them in this release, along with apricots, apple peel and a rub of cardamon in the aromas. Drink in Golden Delicious apple sauce with cinnamon and toast. Bold acidity on the midpalate is followed by a finish of filberts and apple peel.

Tsillan Cellars 2006 Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $20

Recommended. Pears, starfruit, river rock, dried

pineapples, gooseberries and limeaid create an easy-going structure that made the Italian interpretation so famous. No doubt it’s a big hit at the Tuscan-themed showpiece in Chelan, Wash.

Gewürztraminer

Willamette Valley, 300 cases, $18

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Riesling Oregon, 21,000 cases, $12

Excellent. Gorgeous complexity on a large scale

comes mostly from the Tualitin Estate Vineyard.

Aromas feature minerality, honeysuckle and a slice of blueberry pie. There’s no hint of the tasty sweetness (4% residual sugar) that awaits inside with apples, oranges and pears. And yet, Forrest Klaffke balances it with a huge burst of acidity, which suggests an offering of prawns, scallops or crab.

Pinot Gris Abiqua Wind Vineyard 2006 Le Petit Garcon Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 230 cases, $17

Excellent. Consulting winemakers Joe Dobbes

Recommended. Laurie Lewis and Renee Neely

Ash Hollow

thankfully abandoned oak, paving the way for a fruit-forward and steely drink. Hints of gooseberries, angel food cake, canned Mandarin oranges, uncooked squash and blueberries make it out of the glass. Flavors are assertive with lemon merangue on the entry, a midpalate of minerality and lime in the finish.

2006 Gewürztraminer

Kramer Vineyards 2005 Kimberley’s Reserve Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 100 cases, $18

Recommended. It’s barrel-fermented but not oak-

dominated, allowing aromas of Golden Delicious apples, lanolin and facial powder peer out of glass. Apples and lemon-lime acidity are the focus with some fig in the finish. Serve with linguini and clam sauce, cod or halibut alongside capers and lemons or fresh trout.

and Anne Hubatch collaborated on estate fruit for proprietor Pete Buffington with very foodfriendly results. Lavender, peaches, apples and lime aromas lead to citrus flavors more along the lines of lemons and oranges. There’s a lanolin/vanilla component amid the pleasing leanness and firm acidity. Orange blossoms and grassiness notes in the finish should make a glass good company for grilled halibut, scallops or scampi.

Kramer Vineyards

Ash Hollow

2006 Pinot Gris

2006 Pinot Gris

Columbia Valley, 220 cases, $16

Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $19

Recommended. This Yakima, Wash., winery has

Outstanding! Minnick and Upland vineyards in the

crafted a luscious, fruit-driven white that should pair well with shellfish, chicken or grilled vegetables. It opens with aromas of tropical fruit, including bananas, pineapples and Key limes, along with a hint of white pepper. On the palate are clean, round flavors of orchard and tropical fruits with just a hint of sweetness throughout.

Yakima Valley show that this grape can thrive outside of the Willamette Valley. Walla Walla winemaker Steve Clifton showcases lemon citrus notes, ripe pear and apple in the nose, along with a scrape of Pecorino cheese.

There’s a boat load of bright acidity with lemon, lime and orange along with pear in the midpalate and some grapefruit pith in the finish.

Serve up the scallops.

Columbia Valley, 230 cases, $19

Excellent. This young Walla Walla winery brought

these grapes in from the den Hoed site in Sunnyside, and classic Gewürz qualities are abundant with pink grapefruit and rosewater notes, joined by pineapple and spicy gooseberry. That citrus and soft spice brought bratwurst or Vietnamese food possibilities to mind.

Montinore Estate 2006 Gewürztraminer Willamette Valley, 3.674 cases, $13

Excellent. Sometimes, there’s no mistaking this

2004 Pinot Gris Yamhill-Carlton District, 200 cases, $12

Excellent. A medley of apple aromas include

cane sugar, grassy notes, toasted almonds and a twist of lime. Flavors return to fresh-cut apples, joined by canned pears and a good dose of citrus acidity for pleasing balance.

Naches Heights Vineyard

Silvan Ridge 2006 Pinot Gris Oregon, 1,300 cases, $15

Camas Prairie Winery

Recommended. Ellis and Kliewer vineyards con-

2006 Pinot Gris

tribute notes of lemon/lime, fresh pineapple and trail mix fruit such as apricots and apples. Good acidity and some Sprite on the midpalate lead into a finish of Asian pear and more apple.

Washington, 250 cases, $11

Recommended. Idaho winemaker Stu Scott

sources some of the top vineyards in Washington for his value-packed wines, and these grapes hail from David Minnick in the Yakima Valley. Starfuit, dried apple and ambrosia salad aromas come back on a refreshing and balanced palate with canned W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Stangeland Vineyards & Winery 2006 Pinot Gris Eola-Amity Hills, 415 cases, $16

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classic German grape, and here’s such a case.

Lychee nut, rosewater, lemon curd, cloves, a box of apples and mountain stream river rock guide the nose. Grapefruit and Mandarin orange take over on the balanced attack with varietally correct bitterness in the midpalate and pith in the finish.

Namaste Vineyards 2006 Harmony Vineyard Gewürztraminer Willamette Valley, 434 cases, $15

Excellent. Though this Dallas, Ore., winery’s

vineyards are not in the Eola-Amity Hills appellation, they are just south of it and still gain the advantage of the cooling breeze that comes through the Van Duzer Corridor each day from the Pacific Ocean. The result is better balance of acidity in an area that can otherwise be warm all summer long. This Gewürztraminer opens with classic aromas of lycee, grapefruits and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of Golden Delicious apples, sweet garden peas and grapefruit zest. This is a dry Gewürz that should fare well on the Thanksgiving table.

brushback from complex acidity and bitterness with apple peel in the midpalate.

Merry Cellars 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 67 cases, $14

Recommended. Pullman, Wash., vintner Patrick

Merry pulls from Evergreen Vineyards near George, Wash., arguably the premier site in the state for this white Bordeaux. It’s easy to pick out notes of tropical fruit, Granny Smith apple tartness, fresh-cut celery and gooseberry acidity.

Watermill Winery 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley,139 cases, $18

Recommended. One of the Northwest’s premier

cider houses has branched out into wine at its Milton-Freewater, Ore., headquarters. And green apples and pears dominate the structure that game with the Milbrandt grapes from Evergreen Vineyard. Sur lie aging in neutral French oak merely adds roundness and balances the ample acidity.

Tsillan Cellars

White blends

2006 Gewürztraminer

label this blend of Willard and Goose Ridge fruit as Chardonnay (75%). The Pinot Gris (25%) shows in the nose with starfuit and includes jicama, apples and cloves. Done in stainless steel, there are tons of pear and apples on the clean bright entry, along with more starfruit and pineapple. Enjoy with summer fare and seafood.

Kestrel Vintners NV Pure Platinum 3rd Edition Yakima Valley, 4,357 cases, $15

Recommended. When this Prosser, Wash., winery

came up with a blend called Lady in Red, it had no idea what a hit the wine would be. But thanks to its approachable flavors and striking packaging, it’s suddenly become Kestrel’s biggest seller. Pure Platinum is the white equivalent. Again, it’s luscious and approachable, thanks to the blend of Gewürztraminer and Viognier, two very gentle varieties. This opens with aromas of minerals, papaya and apples, followed by flavors of sweet corn and grapefruits.

Maryhill Winery 2006 Winemaker’s White

Columbia Valley, 420 cases, $16

Ash Hollow

Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, $14

Outstanding! This Chelan, Wash., winery contin-

2006 Somana

ues to display amazing ability with its white program, and the fact that this is estate fruit bodes well for the future. Telltale aromas of this Alsatian grape are here: lychee, grapefruit, rosewater, clove as well as some gooseberry and honeydew melon in the background. They reappear in delicious style that’s a bit soft on the entry until the grapefruit kicks some acidity on the midpalate and drops pith in the finish.

Columbia Valley, 375 cases, $20

Outstanding! New winemaker Craig Larson struts his stuff with a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier. The layers of mouth-watering aromatics those grapes provide is amazing with cinnamon, cloves, pear, apple pie, nectarine, dusty stone and a lemon squirt.

Impressive acidity is the hallmark on the palate with fresh-cut apples and cake spice backed by white grapefruit and slightly unripe nectarine.

This should pare beautifully with trout almondine or other fatty white fish.

Tsillan Cellars 2006 Reserve Gewürztraminer

Outstanding! Steve Clifton comes up with a nicely even-handed wine that’s a 50/50 blend of Pinot Gris from the Minnick and Upland sites, and Sauvignon Blanc (Airport Ranch, Evergreen).

Pear, pineapple, apple, marshmallow and river rock aromas give way to the sweet yet tart gooseberry pie entry. Lots of accessible fruit and acidity give it length through to the finish of Golden Delicious apple peel. Enjoy with scallops or Asian fare.

Namaste Vineyards

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $18

Bergevin Lane Vineyards

2006 Peace

Outstanding! Kiwi winemaker Peter Devison

2006 Calico White

Willamette Valley, 1,234 cases, $15

doesn’t seem to miss with Gewürz. It’s done in classic fashion with Juicy Fruit aromas including muscat, lychee and cloves with lemon/lime notes that don’t mislead on the palate.

Grapefruit and lime provide a pleasing grip of mouthwatering acidity to balance the sweetness. And there’s great length, too.

Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, $15

Outstanding! This Dallas, Ore., winery’s logo includes two clusters of grapes in the shape of yin and yang symbol. It certainly found balance in this off-dry blend of Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay from estate vineyards west of Salem. It opens with aromas of pink grapefruits, apples, lemons and green tea, followed by complex flavors of green peppercorns, sweet herbs, freshly mown hay and applesauce sprinkled with cinnamon. This could pair well with grilled chicken or halibut or enjoyed with a plate of soft cheeses.

Sauvignon Blanc Ash Hollow Winery 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Outstanding! This inaugural release from new

winemaker Steffan Jorgensen takes a base of steel-fermented Chardonnay (70%) then splashes in barreled Viognier (28%) and Roussanne.

It’s a delicious introduction to serious wine for those in the white Zin camp. Banana taffy, pears, facial powder, grapefruit and orange oil aromatics give the impression of a sweet palate.

However, it’s rather complex with fresh lemonade and a lot of acidity giving it terrific length.

Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $19

Dunham Cellars

Excellent. Some of the best Sauv Blanc in

2006 Four Legged White

O•S Winery

Columbia Valley, 2,378 cases, $19

2006 Klipsun Vineyard “S”

Recommended. The Dunhams adopted Maysy, a

Red Mountain, 75 cases, $22

rescued border collie, and came up with a delicious tribute from the Lewis Vineyard that’s primarily Riesling (87%) with some Chardonnay for body. A well-mannered sipper, it’s loaded with orchard and tropical fruit akin to sweet apples (2.8% residual sugar), apricots, pineapple and citrus. Enjoy with spicy Asian fare. Woof!

Recommended. The “S” stands for Sauvignon

Columbia Valley, 500 cases, $13

Helix by Reininger

Saviah Cellars

Recommended. The wave in starts with Red

2006 Aspersa

2006 Star Meadows White Wine

Delicious apple, starfruit, celery, dried pineapple and cantaloupe with spice of star anise and coriander. A smack of sweet apples gets a

Columbia Valley, 876 cases, $18

Columbia Valley, 408 cases, $22

Outstanding! A beautiful white named after the

Recommended. An alliance of Bordeaux brothers

brown garden snail. Chuck Reininger could

Sauvignon Blanc (57%) and Semillon shows

Washington comes off the Milbrandts’ Evergreen Vineyard in George, and Steve Clifton also tapped into Airport Ranch near Prosser for this fine example. There’s a steeliness undertone to the gooseberry and lemon curd notes throughout. Pleasing herbal, grapefruit and melon notes add to great acidity.

Claar Cellars 2006 White Bluffs Sauvignon Blanc

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Blanc (55%) and Semillon (45%), and it features peaches and apples, river rock and green tea. Lots of limelike acidity will allow this to nicely cut through scallops sauteed with butter and pair with mussels prepared in white wine and lemons.

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recent releases more of former in the nose with gooseberries and tom cat. It strikes a nice balance in the mouth with bold and round pears and pineapples. A touch of smokiness makes a plate of linguine and clam sauce worth seeking.

Skylite Cellars 2006 Sierra Columbia Valley, 100 cases, $18

Excellent. A combination Sauv Blanc (63%) and

Pinot Gris at this Walla Walla winery resulted in an ambrosia salad of a blend. Orange peanut candy and cloves also connect with the fruity components in both directions, and gooseberrylike acidity on the midpalate keeps the sweet fruit in check. Enjoy it chilled with grilled halibut.

Viento Wines 2006 Allegre Vineyard Verona

Rattlesnake Hills opens with telltale grassiness, ripe apple, NECCO wafer and Fig Newton notes. Dusty pear and dried pineapple flavors make for a pleasing and smooth entry, then a sweet spike on the midpalate with mouthwatering lemon/lime and tangerine. The touch of residual sugar (1%) doesn’t show up amid the wealth of acidity.

Lopez Island Vineyards 2006 Madeleine Angevine

Skylite Cellars

Excellent. Organic estate grapes are finished dry

2006 Viognier

and barrel fermented, but the fruit still shines without noticing the oak. Peach and nectarine notes include anise and grassiness with apple peel acidity. Enjoy this uncommon variety with Northwest seafood and salads.

Lopez Island Vineyard

Excellent. Growing up in Hood River afforded

2006 Siegerrebe

Rich Cushman early relationships with Columbia Gorge vineyards such as this tiny one-acre site. Here’s a rare vineyard-designate field blend, leading with Pinot Gris (47%), then Chardonnay (33%) and Sauvignon Blanc.

Orange, apple and pineapple aromas are joined by a whiff of smoke and flagstone dustiness. In store is an easy entry of orchard fruit with banana chips in the midpalate and citrus pith tartness in the finish.

Excellent. The Germanic cross of Gewürztraminer and Madeleine Angevine fares well in the maritime, and Brent Charnley does well by the salmon-safe fruit. Nice grapefruit spice, clover, savory spice and honeysuckle notes include unsweetened dried pineapple in the flavors.

Gooseberries, citrus pith and grassiness in the finish conjure up thoughts of halibut steaks.

Isenhower Cellars 2006 Ciel du Cheval Roussanne Red Mountain, 192 cases, $22

Recommended. Brett Isenhower continues to raise

the profile of this underappreciated Rhône variety like no one else in the region, and this is believed to be the first vineyard-designated Roussanne in the Northwest. Malolactic fermentation rounded the ripe apple and pear notes, and yet he preserved its minerality and bracing lime and lemon peel acidity. Enjoy this with a fajita joined by a green salsa incorporating mango and lime.

L’Ecole No. 41

the marine climate of the Washington coast, and this bottling is one of the best. There are some Riesling characteristics with poached pears and apple, honeysuckle and sweet cloves in the expressive nose. Orchard and bright citrus fruit abound in lip-smacking fashion with lots of acidity. Complexity follows to the finish with minerality, lime and grated coconut. A perfect way to enjoy it would be on a boat with fresh shellfish.

Puget Sound, 320 cases, $17

Columbia Gorge, 229 cases, $14

Other whites

WINE REVIEWS

Puget Sound, 363 cases, $17

Merry Cellars 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Semillon Columbia Valley, 124 cases, $18

Yakima Valley, 112 cases, $18

Outstanding! Versatile vintner Robert Smasne knows his way around the Yakima Valley better than most, and it shows in this Rhône expression from the Upland Vineyard. Rosy floral aromas are joined butterscotch candy, white pepper, dried pineapple, wheat crackers and lime zest. Pleasing roundness surrounds flavors of white peaches and orange Creamsicle with lemon chiffon in the midpalate and citrus acidity through to the finish.

Watermill Winery 2005 Viognier Walla Walla Valley, 207 cases, $16

Recommended. This new winery in Milton-

Freewater, Ore., worked its way into nearby Seven Hills Vineyard. Notes of cotton candy, oranges, dried pineapple and a sense of grassiness get accents of lime acidity and white pepper in the finish.

Excellent. The first step to achieving success in

the wine business is starting with great grapes.

If you don’t, you’ll have no chance of making a good wine. In the case of this Pullman, Wash., operation, winemaker Patrick Merry obtained Semillon from one of the best young vineyards in Washington. Stillwater is north of the Wahluke Slope in ancient soils unaffected by the Ice Age Floods. This luscious white opens with aromas of fresh apples, apricots and white pepper, followed by complex flavors that include lemongrass, cloves, sandalwood and white nectarines. This is a superb collaboration between vineyard and winery.

Rosé Amavi Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc Rosé Walla Walla Valley, 125 cases, $18

Excellent. It’s all Cab Franc, all Waliser Vineyard

and 100% used French oak woven together in blush style by Jean-Francois Pellet. A growing nose of fresh strawberries and cream, rhubarb, green peppercorns and peaches finds more fruit in the mouth. Fresh strawberries and maraschino cherries burst forth with pleasing acidity that leaves tannin behind.

2006 “Walla Voila” Chenin Blanc

San Juan Vineyards

Ash Hollow

Washington, 1,607 cases, $13

2006 Estate Grown Siegerrebe

2006 Rosé

Excellent. A family favorite for 20 years, this

Puget Sound, 520 cases, $15

Walla Walla Valley, 110 cases, $18

release of Willard Family Farms fruit from the

Outstanding! This Germanic grape thrives well in

Recommended. Cabernet Franc’s complexity

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makes for some ideal pink wines, and this is definitely 100% varietally correct in Old World fashion with beautiful coloring. Aromas of strawberries and the leaf, honeysuck rhubarb, candy cane and alluring cherries carry on the fruit-forward palate. Bold acidity gives way to tannin and a finish that’s dry.

bridge the gap for white wine drinkers moving ahead to reds.

Claar Cellars

“Saigné” rosé, in which the juice is pulled off soon after crush. This is a blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Viognier and Malbec, the likes of which we have not prior witnessed. This complexity shows up in the aromas with notes of pie cherries, black raspberries and French vanilla, followed by refreshing flavors of bright strawberries and black cherries backed with bright crispness.

NV Busty Blush White Bluffs Rosé Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $13

Outstanding! Bruno Corneaux added a splash of Chardonnay to Sangiovese in 2006 and created a dry and delicious pink wine. It’s loaded with cherries and strawberries while integrating a hint of vanilla and herbal notes. You can pick out some cherry peel in the finish. This Pasco, Wash., winery continues to donate $1 of each bottle to the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center.

Kestrel Vintners 2006 Kestrel View Estate Vineyard Rosé Yakima Valley, 300 cases, $15

Excellent. What an interesting wine! It is a classic

Skylite Cellars 2006 Dry Rosé Columbia Valley, 50 cases, $15

Elk Cove Vineyards 2006 Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley, 1,357 cases, $15

Recommended. Delicate strawberries, rhubarb,

candied apple coating and vanilla notes with delicious acidity make this quite a sipper that’s capped by cherry skins, cinnamon and light plum juice.

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards

Outstanding! Tom and Cheryl Hodgins’ “estate” jazz station in Walla Walla trumpets their winery, and there’s no false advertising thanks to Robert Smasne’s winemaking. He uses the great building blocks for rose — Sangiovese (58%) and Cab Franc — for a moving rendition. Fresh raspberries and strawberries are broadcast in every direction with a big mouthfeel and stirring finish that inspires sipping day and night.

2006 Rosé

St. Laurent Winery

Columbia Valley, 410 cases, $13

2006 Mrachek Vineyards Syrah Rosé

Excellent. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon

Wahluke Slope, 468 cases, $15

low” Port-styled dessert wine. We’d call it dangerously good. Classic aromas of black cherries, vanilla, maple nut and golden raisins don’t disappoint. Think of a cherry fruit rollup, a cordial cherry with milk chocolate and Vermont maple syrup. Tremendous acidity somehow manages to overshadow the alcohol, and time will be more kind as the integration of alcohol takes place. Wait two years, if you can.

Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Elerding Vineyard Late Harvest Viognier Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $28

Excellent. Veteran vintner Cheryl Barber Jones

helped winemaker/proprietor Mike Sharadin on his new project in Redmond, Wash., that was just a few degrees away from launching with an ice wine. Its inviting nose features fuzzy peaches, oranges and NECCO Wafers. Tasty orchard fruit returns with flavors of peaches and baked apricots dripping with honey. Ample acidity balances the sweetness of 14% residual sugar.

Three Rivers Winery 2006 Biscuit Ridge Vineyard Late Harvest Gewürztraminer Walla Walla Valley, 862 cases, $15

Outstanding! A tongue-twister of a title, this true estate vineyard of the Wollmuths produces one of the tastiest dessert drinks in the Northwest.

Lavender-infused honey, a medley of tropical fruit aromas and a slice of celery fascinate. The honey, mango, peach and lychee flavors are almost too intense, but a good chill combined with the citruslike acidity the sugar (7.5%) will serve it well — on the patio or after the dinner with a baked pear.

and Merlot from Jeff Gordon’s estate vineyard overlooking the Snake River. It offers up aromas of strawberry jam and a cherry-rhubarb pie, followed by flavors of white cherries, cooked strawberries and honeycrisp apples. A refreshing wine that is loaded with flavor and balanced with bright acidity. Enjoy this with barbecued pork ribs, a plate of soft cheeses or pasta tossed with grilled vegetables.

Outstanding. Our reigning Washington Winery to

Trust Cellars

Camas Prairie Winery

Isenhower Cellars

2006 Cabernet Franc Rosé

NV Raspberry Brut

2006 Horse Heaven Hills Rosé

Columbia Valley, 67 cases, $16

Washington, 50 cases, $20

Horse Heaven Hills, 113 cases, $17

Excellent. It’s all Bacchus Vineyard fruit from

Excellent. Arguably the Rhone Ranger of Walla

Pasco, Wash., that received worthy treatment at this brand-new Walla Walla winery. Lean and luscious cherries with some strawberry candy and leafy aromas are true to the grape. It’s a fun and tasty sipper with more strawberries and cherry acidity up front.

Outstanding! Stu Scott combines ingenuity, good business and skilled winemaking in Moscow, Idaho, to create some of the Northwest most intriguing and tasty bottlings. Wyckoff Vineyard in the Yakima Valley produces the Chardonnay.

The splash of berry juice adds iless than 1% residual sugar but plenty of color. A nice fizz carries flavors of the raspberries, but also strawberries, cherries and some peach. It’s a great way to show off the first course of a meal.

Walla, Brett Isenhower achieves to be unique with good taste. Steve Elerding had all the fruit — Counoise (42%), Mourvedre (41%) and Grenache — for this dry style featuring aromatics of Ruby Red grapefruit, strawberries, rhubarb and raspberry. Inside this dry expression is more of the grapefruit and its tart acidity with black cherries and rhubarb along the way.

Bring out a cheese plate with fresh strawberries and Italian meats.

JLC Winery 2005 The Muse Rosé Walla Walla Valley, 300 cases, $15

Excellent. Inviting and intriguing is this dark

blend of Merlot (60%) and Cab Sauv from Lynne Chamberlain’s estate Spofford Station.

Big cherry, chocolate and strawberry spice aromas transcend into delightfully bold berry flavors. The abundance of dark fruit takes it from being a light-styled wine. In fact, pairing options include a steak sacrificed by one of her Cab-fed cows. This rosé is quite showy because of the sweetness and a good way to

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Watch comes back with another stunning Syrah rosé that includes Chardonnay (10%) and Riesling (5%). The smiling starts with gorgeous color and continues from start to finish notes of ripe strawberries, raspberries and black cherries. Full flavors and pleasing acidity should endear this to grilled spareribs.

Viento Wines 2006 Chukar Ridge Vineyard Sangiovese Rosé Columbia Valley, 234 cases, $15

Excellent. This new vineyard in Dallesport, Wash., has a view of Mount Hood and the Columbia River. And Rich Cushman shows what the future holds in this refreshing pink with tart cherry and strawberry notes. Some river rock minerality and crisp acidity also brings out hints of apricots and peaches. Enjoy this with chicken, pizza or pasta primavera.

Dessert wine FairWinds Winery Port O’ Call Dessert Wine Washington, 100 cases, $20

Outstanding! Michael Cavett deems this a “mel-

Sparkling

Nongrape Camas Prairie Winery 2006 Raspberry Mead Idaho, 60 cases, $13

Outstanding! What a honey of a wine by Stu

Scott. It’s clear to see why he wins at the International Wine & Spirits Competition each year with this mead is as predictable as death and taxes. Raspberry dominates, but there also are notes of apricot and strawberry hard candy with the jelly center. The key, though, is pleasing acidity that provides delicious balance for continued sipping.

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $10 ($12 Canadian) and under.

Columbia Crest 2006 Two Vines Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 42,000 cases, $8

Excellent. Ray Einberger picked this on Oct. 25, and the timing seems

right for this tasty sipper. Lime and pineapple aromas meld into grapefruit and pear flavors with juicy Sprite acidity to balance the sugar, which was left at 3%.

Columbia Crest 2006 Two Vines Riesling Columbia Valley, 110,000 cases, $8

Outstanding! Utterly amazing for so much to come out so well. Ray Einberger and his white lieutenant, Keith Kenison, produce a widely descriptive wine featuring notes of yellow grapefruit, cooked green beans, candy corn, rose water and particularly late-hanging orchard fruit — with harvest on Nov. 2. Refreshing acidity balances the sugar (3.5%) and makes for a complete package that will pair beautifully with a garden salad or Asian cuisine.

Covey Run Winery 2005 Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley, 3,112 cases, $9

Recommended. Phil Church Vineyard, the Rattlesnake Hills site named

after one of Columbia Winery’s founders, contributed the bulk of the grapes, and there’s a note of Thompson seedless among the aromas of muskmelon, honey, dates, black pepper and grassiness. Fresh pear flavors and residual sugar of 2.7% find a bit of balance from some late citrus acidity. Suggested fare includes Fettuccini Alfredo.

cots is joined by lavender, dried pineapple and cantaloupe aromas. It’s smooth and sweet on the palate with honeycrisp apple and 4% residual sugar. There’s just enough citrus to keep it from being cloying.

Enjoy with a bowl of spicy pho.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Winemaker’s Select Riesling Columbia Valley, 34,000 cases, $6

Outstanding! Joy Andersen has reaped several gold medals with this release that comes in off-dry at 5% residual sugar. Fresh-squeezed lemons and grapefruit gain complexity in the nose with cloves, minerals and toasted almonds. It’s indeed a delicious sipper tilting on the sweet side with flavors of Juicy Fruit and fresh-cut apple, balanced by the fresh pink grapefruit juice acidity. Pair this with a spicy dish or hang on to it until a nutty fruit cake arrives fresh.

Ste. Chapelle 2006 Chateau Series Soft Chenin Blanc Washington-Idaho, 18,000 cases, $8

Excellent. Chuck Devlin fashions this series for those wanting low-alco-

hol and approachable wines, and he hits the mark. A delicate nose of dried pineapple, pear and melon includes lavendar and a strike of flint.

There’s indeed a big dose of residual sugar (7%) among the rich peaches, pears and baked apple flavors, but it’s got just enough acidity to make it work. Serve it well-chilled with a fruit and cheese plate.

Ste. Chapelle 2006 Winemaker’s Series Chardonnay

Covey Run Winery

Idaho, 13,000 cases, $8

2005 Morio Muskat

Recommended. Bartlett pears, butter rum candy, vanilla, apricots, dried

Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, $7

pineapple and Honeycrisp apple notes swirl within perhaps the most widely available Chardonnay from the Gem State. There’s a bit of sweetness but it’s balanced with acidity.

Outstanding! Few attempt and none surpasses the success Kerry Norton

has with this cross of Riesling and Sylvaner. And it need not be sweet (1.3% residual sugar) to be delicious. You could fill a notepad with the descriptors, starting with enticing aromas of Bananas Foster, lychee, Mandarin orange and facial powder. Lychee, grapefruit and fresh pineapple flavors find balance with abundant amounts of limelike acidity.

Suggested fare includes cheesecake or a fruit plate with goat cheese.

Covey Run Winery 2005 Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley, 6,700 cases, $9

Recommended. Kerry Norton (who now is the head winemaker at

Ste. Chapelle 2006 Winemaker’s Series Dry Gewürztraminer Idaho, 3,000 cases, $8

Excellent. One of Chuck Devlin’s desires is to show the rest of the coun-

try that his state produces more than Riesling. Here’s an example of an Alsatian grape that thrives in Idaho. Pineapple, apple, citrus, coriander, butter rum and some grassy notes set the stage for more spicy citrus, pineapple and canned pear flavors. Minerality on the midpalate, salivating etched acidity and beautiful length promotes repeated internal investigation.

Columbia Winery) has crafted a luscious Pinot Grigio that has just a dollop of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Viognier for complexity. It opens with aromas of limes, lemons, Mandarin oranges and cantaloupes, along with zesty flavors of citrus. Pair this with grilled fish or pasta primavera.

Ste. Chapelle

Montinore Estate

Excellent. Dry in this instance is less than 1% residual sugar. There’s

2006 Semi-dry Riesling

plenty of pleasing fruit, though, with citrus and apple, then a chip of slate minerality in the aromas. Green apple tartness on the entry yields to mouthwatering citrus acidity that bangs you upside the head and broadens the food options to include shellfish and poultry dishes with cream sauces.

Willamette Valley, 4,190 cass, $10

Outstanding! Rudy Marchesi’s appreciation for and skill with Riesling seemingly doesn’t waver. A tantalizing nose features apple, pear, starfruit, pineapple, coconut, marshmallow, minerality and a bit of white pepper. Balance is maintained in the mouth coated with fresh pear and unsweetened tropical fruit as the residual sugar sits at 1%. Succulent acidity is akin to Nellie & Joe’s Famous Key Lime Juice. Citrus pith and flint are found in the finish.

Montinore Estate 2006 Müller-Thurgau Willamette Valley, 4,803 cases, $8

Excellent. And exotic. A produce section of fresh apples, pears and apri-

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2006 Winemaker’s Series Dry Riesling Idaho, 7,500 cases, $8

Ste. Chapelle 2006 Winemaker’s Series Special Harvest Riesling Idaho, 14,500 cases, $9

Recommended. As this grape continues to win favor, Idaho will gain

acclaim. The state’s largest winery delivers a crowd pleaser with nectarines and pears featured among the orchard fruit notes, which are sweet at 8% residual sugar. Minerality and citrus acidity keep the sugars from going over the top.

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BY BOB WOEHLER

At 25, Latah Creek aging nicely aking good wines for a quarter-century and selling them at modest prices has paid off for Mike and Ellena Conway, owners of Spokane’s pioneer Latah Creek Winery.

M

ture and business logo onto their labels. This is an unusual service and an untapped revenue source for a winery. There is $2 setup fee and $1 per label, plus the price of the wine.

There is no minimum purchase.

“We are virtually debt-free after 25 years,” said Mike, who was lured to the Pacific Northwest in 1980 from Parducci Winery in California by Jack Worden.

However, the key to their success is the wine. Their portfolio features many varieties outside the mainstream, including the huckleberry d’Latah, a maywine that uses the herb woodruff, two Muscats and a sweet dessert wine made from Syrah.

Worden Winery, which no longer exists, was the first to open in Spokane, and the Conways decided to make Spokane their home.

Like a lot of early day Pacific Northwest winemakers, Conway was schooled in California, working as a microbiologist technician for E&J Gallo, then Franzia Brothers and later as an assistant winemaker to John Parducci.

Conway was buying grapes in the Yakima Valley when he met Mike Hogue. In 1982, Hogue made wine for the newly opened Hogue Cellars in Prosser and was a partner at Latah Creek. The Conways eventually bought out Hogue’s interest in Latah Creek.

“From day one, our winery was our only source of income,” Mike said.

The Conways announced in 2005 that their daughter Natalie would join the family business as an assistant winemaker. She graduated from Eastern Washington University with a degree in biology.

Here is a review of Latah Creek’s wines, past and present: 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon: Although not designed to age 15 years, it is holding up well with intriguing oak and almond aromas and flavors to go with the fruit.

1998 Merlot: It was very popular when first released, and I can see why. It’s remains driven by smooth berry flavors and aromas with nice tannins and a gentle, lasting finish.

When the Conways celebrated their 25th anniversary on July 14, 2007, they could boast they were debt free. With no wine in the 17,000-case production priced above $15 and their biggest seller a mix of huckleberry and Riesling, one might wonder how the Conways did it.

2005 Cab-Syrah, Washington, $20: This offers the best of both varieties, including the spiciness of the Syrah and the fruit fullness of the Cabernet. Ready to drink now, but it will keep for a few years.

That $15 barrier will probably be eclipsed with two new wines ready for release, a Petit Verdot for $30 and a CabSyrah for $20.

Here’s a small-lot gem that shows black cherries, violet aromas and black currant flavors with a deep crimson to ripe plum color.

Perseverance and savvy marketing, with 80 percent of their sales aimed at the Spokane/Coeur d’ Alene market, has paid off.

And being a pioneer winery in the largest population center in Eastern Washington, while catering to that market, helped turn the small, tastefully appointed winery near Interstate 90 into a must-stop for wine tourists. It also helped that the street past their winery is now a main access to the Spokane Valley Mall.

Today, roughly 20 percent of the winery income comes from the tasting room gift shop that Ellena created over the years. There are so many gifts items now that it’s almost difficult to spot the tasting bar when entering the winery. Gift items have spilled over into the barrel and tank rooms.

2006 Winemaker’s Reserve Red Petit Verdot, Washington, $30:

Huckleberry d’Latah, $10: A blend of huckleberry juice and Riesling turns into a refreshing sipper. Latah Creek can’t use the word Riesling on the label because federal laws don’t allow any grape variety to be mentioned if a nongrape component is in the wine.

2006 Moscato d’Latah, $14: This is loaded with beguiling aromatics and sweet flavors. A cocktail wine for sure.

2005 Chardonnay, Washington, $11: A gold-medal winner and best of class at the 2007 Seattle Wine Awards, it is a ripe, delicious mix of tropical fruit and oak spice with a balanced and crisp refreshing finish.

2005 Merlot, Washington, $15: Inside, you’ll find a delicious smooth balanced Merlot offering blackberries and smooth oak nuances.

Even the restrooms have items for sale on display.

A feature at Latah Creek is making personalize labels for any occasion. The Conways can add a personal message, pic114

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BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.

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