Wine Press Northwest Spring 2007 by Wine Press Northwest

01 Cover

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02 Best Western ad

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04 Contents

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 10, No. 1

N O R T H W E S T

Spring 2007

FEATURES

32 Northwest Winery of the Year Elk Cove Vineyards in Gaston, Ore., earns this year’s top honor.

DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose Letting wines speak for themselves

8 A Distant Perspective

36 Regional Wineries of the Year Find out which wineries have been named Wineries of the Year and Wineries to Watch for Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho.

60 Standing out by blending in We blind taste 140 Pacific Northwest red blends. Find out which wines came out on top.

74 Helping everybody CI Cellars in Kennewick, Wash., employs developmentally disabled workers to help provide storage, labeling and repackaging services to area wineries.

80 The Wahluke Slope

NW leads global race for Riesling

10 Market Grapevine Spring reawakens our taste buds

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Know when to hold ’em

14 Urban Sips Wedding bells, duct tape and wine

16 19 20 94 110

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings Argyle bubbly? That’s the spirit

The Wahluke Slope is the new frontier in Washington wine country.

86 Match Makers Two Northwest chefs pair their dishes with Brandborg’s 2005 Pinot Blanc.

ON THE COVER Adam Campbell is a second-generation winemaker at family-owned Elk Cove Vineyards, our Winery of the Year. Story starts on Page 32. Photo by Jackie Johnston

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Lynne Chamberlain, Coke Roth, Bob Woehler, Paul Sinclair, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Tasting panel facilitator: Paul Sinclair Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Mary Hopkin, Anna King, Holly Leitner Contributing photographers: J. Kevin Dunn, Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Mona Perdue, 360-373-2659 E-mail: mperdue@silverlink.net L. Cooper, 509-539-2009 E-mail: lworks@charter.net To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $10 U.S., $12 Canadian and $15 outside of North America per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2007 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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06 Wine Nose

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

Letting wines speak for themselves

n the world of wine writing and critiquing, nothing is more important than how you conduct yourself and what scoring system you use. Occasionally, it’s right and proper to step back, take a look at how you do something, then change as necessary. Thus, beginning in this issue, we’ve done our own version of a new year’s resolution, tweaking how we rate wines. Don’t worry. It’s still pretty simple. Turn to Page 94, and you’ll notice a new rating in our Recent Releases: “Excellent.” Actually, we’ve used three ratings in our peer-group judgings for several years: “Outstanding,” “Excellent” and “Recommended” (there’s also that fourth rating for wines that don’t make our cut and don’t appear in the magazine). Now, we’re extending them to our double-blind Recent Releases section to provide a little more clarity on how we feel about each wine. In February at the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers convention, I was on a panel about the “holy grail” of getting a 100-point wine, as Washington’s Quilceda Creek Vintners did last year from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. I guess I was there to provide perspective from a writer who doesn’t use the 100-point scale. But heck, nobody uses a 100point scale anymore. It’s more like a 10- or 15-point scale. Read the big international magazines (Spectator, Enthusiast) or the smaller newsletters (Parker, Tanzer) and while they do score wines up to 100 points, they certainly don’t start at zero. Rarely do you see scores lower than 80, and usually they don’t go higher than 95. In fact, the sweet spot for wineries is somewhere above 89. You see, that one little point between 89 and 90 doesn’t seem so big on a scale of 100, but in the mind of winemakers, marketers and consumers, it’s a chasm wider than the Columbia River and can make the difference between happiness and unbridled glee. Most of you have a three-point system: You like it, you don’t like it, or you will drink it if someone else paid for it. Our system isn’t quite that simple because while we sniff, sip and spit the wine, we’ll argue, cajole and lobby over a wine we do or don’t like. A wine’s balance of aromas, flavors and structure plays a major role in our decision on how to recommend it. And because wine is an agricultural product, we’ll also consider what kind of food it will go with. The awards and numbers should mean even more depending on how they are judged. I can’t tell you how others judge wine, only how we conduct ourselves: completely above board. Here’s how it works at Wine Press Northwest. Wines are submitted by wineries, usually after we send an e-mail blast seeking submissions either for specific wines or recently and soon-to-be-released bottlings. The wines are catalogued in a database and handed off to volunteer Hank Sauer, a retired educator who facilitates our tastings. Hank takes the wines off-site, stores them for at least two weeks so 6

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they can get over any travel shock, then puts them in flights and serves them to us. We never see the bottles until after our weekly judging of 32 wines is completed. This way, we do not know who made the wines, nor do we know the varieties or styles. We can’t even try to guess based on bottle shapes. We just know if they’re white or red. For our peer-group judges — such as the red blends we looked at this issue — the judges will know the general style of wine but not the producer, thus it’s single-blind instead of double-blind. We also double-decant our wines, pouring them into a glass pitcher then back into the bottle. This gives the wines a bit of air and gets rid of any off odors related to bottling. Decanting is a fair bit of extra effort, but it also gives a wine the best opportunity to shine. In fact, we implore you to invest in a decent decanter (crystal decanters start around $25, but a glass beer pitcher also works just fine) and use it for all bottles you open. We think you’ll find the wines will smell and taste just that much better. This probably seems like an awful lot of trouble to go through just to review wine, but it’s worth it to know we are not being influenced by a winery’s reputation, advertising/marketing activities or the pretty (or ugly) label. Simply put: We let each wine speak for itself. At our request, most wineries send two bottles. If a wine is deemed unworthy of recognition by our panel or we simply want to give it another look because of corkiness or other flaws, the second bottle is pulled and put into the rotation. About 30 percent of the time, we put that second bottle to use, and approximately half of those ultimately get a good review. Our judgings also are not held in a vacuum. Often, we will invite winemakers, growers or other industry types to join us for our weekly double-blind tastings. We always have at least one or two guest judges for our big tastings, too, and we are beginning to use separate consumer panels for the big tastings to make sure we’re not overlooking wines. If you are interested in being a consumer panelist, it is open to subscribers of our Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter (www.winepressnw.com) who want to write a short essay on why they want to be a wine judge. As always, if you have questions on how wines are judged and reviewed, I am happy to answer them. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 and via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com. Watch his weekly video wine show at www.winepressnw.com/video/vodcast. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

NW leads global race for Riesling

ure, you’re going to say something like, “Tell me something I don’t know,” but the latest news on the Riesling front is that it’s heating up, in ways that even I, a Riesling nutcase, never envisioned. It is true that readers of this publication will not find the “Riesling Renaissance” to be any big whoop. You have all been buying the wine religiously for years, so much so that pretty soon (perhaps even this year) Chateau Ste. Michelle may well pass its volume brand, Columbia Crest, in total wine production, all because of an increase in Riesling production. Yes, it’s true. The Chateau last year made 400,000 cases of Riesling alone and has plans for a significant increase with the 2007 harvest. This could put it ahead of Columbia Crest in total production with more than 2 million cases. Ste. Michelle already is the global leader in Riesling production, but others are not far behind, and among them are two savvy California brands with a half dozen others scrambling to get into the game. The race to drive the Riesling bandwagon is already fierce. California doesn’t have enough Riesling in the ground (just about 2,000 acres statewide, with more than half the total in Monterey County) for all the players. Among the majors are Fetzer (estimated Riesling production in 2006: 80,000 cases); Kendall-Jackson (75,000 cases); Bonny Doon’s Pacific Rim (100,000 cases); and Jekel (Fetzer-affiliated) (25,000 cases). Fetzer fell so short on its Riesling needs that it contracted to buy German Riesling and bottle it under its Valley Oaks label for 12 states. And one sub-brand of the Robert Mondavi Winery also used German Riesling for some of its 2005 wines. So short is the supply of Riesling in California that the Pacific Rim brand has become a blend of Rieslings from Washington and Germany, and the packaging is so clever that you can’t tell that this international blend is, technically, a nonvintage wine, though the fruit all came from the same year. That fact is presented cleverly on the various mini labels. Meanwhile, a few of us were on the cutting edge. Not only was Riesling a hot commodity in the Pacific Northwest since 1990, but in early 2000, Kirk Wille of Oregon began publishing the Riesling Report (www.rieslingreport.com). Curiously, however, some people haven’t gotten the message yet. At all. At the restaurant level, wines by the glass are still overwhelmingly Chardonnay, though Pinot Grigio is stealing the white wine thunder over the last few years. Retailers, too, are a bit late catching the surge in this wine. One fine-wine shop in Sonoma offers what it calls “cult” wines, such as $100 California Chardonnays, Cabernets and even Pinot Noirs. However, there’s not a single Riesling in the store. 8

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Then again, a few others get it: In Santa Rosa, Calif., the Bottle Barn, a huge discount-oriented wine shop, has allocated more space to German and domestic Rieslings, and wine manager Ben Pearson says he can’t predict what kind of space for Riesling he’ll need for 2008. A clue as to what’s up: Pearson’s selection includes German wines at discount prices that still sell for $50 and $60 and more — and they are still selling. Higher-end Rieslings seem to be selling, including loads of the fascinating bone-dry Australian Rieslings. But lower-end stuff is not. Here we can infer why Riesling sales could well become a spotty trend: Consumers may fear they will get a wine that’s too sweet. Or too dry. One of the reasons Riesling never took off when white Zinfandel did 20 years ago was that some of the “best” Rieslings are blessed with good acidity. This has a way of moderating any residual sugar left in the wine to deliver succulence, allowing the wine to avoid being seen as cloying. Those who discovered the pleasures of white Zin did so, I suspect, because almost all such wines were rather sweet and lacking in the acidity that regular wine drinkers prefer. But some Rieslings were made without the proper acid levels, and regular wine drinkers couldn’t tell from the label which Riesling was dry, which off-dry and which sweeter. As a result, lacking any way of determining which Riesling was best as a pre-supper sipper and which was best with the meal, consumers basically turned their attention elsewhere. And thus the grape basically languished here. Moreover, as Riesling has come on strongly in the last few years, growers are still reluctant to put more of it into the ground for fear the trend could be short-lived. But Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon is convinced it’s a tsunami. Not only has he begun construction of a 300,000case winery near Washington’s Red Mountain, but also he has planted 200 acres of Riesling, which conservatively works out to about 80,000 cases of wine. Perhaps 100,000 cases. Because of the complexity of the sugar/acid ratio issue, I suspect the Riesling trend in this country will be very brandrelated, with the sweeter ones clearly recognized for that style of wine, and the dry ones (such as almost every Aussie Riesling) known for that style. So getting in on the ground floor with a recognizable brand is a vital tactic. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer and judge who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (www. VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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10 Market Grapevine

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market grapevine BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Spring reawakens our taste buds Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

he arrival of spring reawakens our taste buds to the vibrant foods of the season — baby peas and leeks, fresh herbs (dill, mint, sorrel), lamb (a natural for spring feasting) and fresh hothouse and farm-raised rhubarb. Our salute to spring begins with a nonvintage sparkling Riesling from Idaho’s largest winery, Ste. Chapelle. Pale straw in color with a flute full of fine bubbles, the nose of apples and pears leads to a hit of sweetness on the palate tempered by balanced acidity in the finish. At just $10 a bottle, the wine makes a sublime sipper on its own, but I also like to pair it with Leek and English Pea Soup, a recipe from Wildwood: Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest (Ten Speed Press, 2000), by Portland chef and restaurateur Cory Schreiber. Begin by melting one tablespoon of unsalted butter over medium heat. Add the white part of four cleaned leeks (cut into thin strips), two cloves of thinly sliced garlic, one teaspoon of salt and half a teaspoon of ground white pepper. Sauté five minutes, stirring often. Stir in four cups of vegetable stock, bring to a boil and cook eight minutes. Mix in oneand-a-half cups of cooked fusilli or corkscrew pasta, 12 ounces of shelled English peas and four ounces of trimmed asparagus (cut into half-inch pieces). Reduce the heat and simmer four minutes, or until bright green and just tender. Swirl in another tablespoon of butter, ladle into soup bowls and garnish with finely shredded fresh sorrel. Our second-course wine is one of my all-time favorites. DeLille Cellars 2005 Chaleur Estate Blanc ($32), from the Columbia Valley, is a Bordeaux-style blend made of 79 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 21 percent Semillon. The wine displays citrus-fruit and subtle oak aromas in the nose; classic flavors of citrus, grapefruit and stone fruits on the palate; and a long, unctuous, almost buttery finish (think crème brûlée). Yum! Pair it with a simple dish inspired by my Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2005): Scandinavian Pasta. Cook three-quarters of a pound of rotini pasta until al dente, drain well and reserve one-quarter cup of the pasta cooking water. In a mixing bowl, gently toss together two tablespoons of unsalted butter (room temperature), one-quarter cup snipped fresh dill (or one tablespoon dried), six ounces of hot-smoked salmon (Pure Food Fish in the Pike Place Market makes a great version: www.freshseafood.com) and a pinch of ground white pepper. Add the pasta and toss gently. If the pasta is dry, add the pasta water bit by bit until a light, creamy sauce forms. Divide among pasta bowls and serve immediately. 10

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Our main-course wine, Fielding Hills 2004 RiverBend Red ($28), comes from one of Washington’s up-and-coming wineries with grapes from the Wahluke Slope. The deeply colored blend (65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 17 percent each Merlot and Syrah and 1 percent Cab Franc) is rife with blackberry, black cherry and red stone fruit aromas and flavors gently sprinkled with pepper. Gentle oaking of the wine leads to a plush mouth feel and a l-o-n-g, smooth finish. Pair this luscious wine with Mustard & Chutney Lamb Chops, a recipe from Simply Classic, the Junior League of Seattle’s cookbook (2002). Begin by arranging eight lamb chops in a single layer in a shallow baking dish. Combine two tablespoons of Dijon mustard with a quarter cup of fruit chutney and spread generously on each chop. Whisk together two tablespoons Dijon, one-half cup chutney, one cup of dry white wine and one-half teaspoon of dried oregano, and pour over the meat. Place a fresh sage leaf on top of each chop. Cover and marinate several hours or overnight in the refrigerator. Half an hour before cooking, remove from the fridge and preheat the grill or broiler. Remove the sage leaves and grill three minutes per side (for medium rare). “A mouthful of yummy,” were the words in my tasting notes I used to describe our spring dessert wine — C.R. Sandidge Wines 2004 KISS Pinot Noir Dessert Wine ($36/500 ml) from the Columbia Valley. Crafted by longtime Washington winemaker Ray “Keep It Sweet” Sandidge (get it? KISS), the wine blossoms with honey-peach and orange-marmalade aromas and flavors. It packs a punch of sweetness at 11 percent residual sugar, but the racy acidity at the finish keeps the wine from turning into a sugar orgy. Pair your KISS with the orange-scented Rhubarb Compote found in The Good Home Cookbook (Collectors Press, 2006). Make the compote by combining four cups of chopped fresh or frozen rhubarb, one cup of granulated sugar, half a cup of orange juice, one teaspoon of ground cinnamon and half a teaspoon of ground ginger in a large saucepan over high heat until boiling. Reduce the heat to medium and cook 15 minutes, stirring frequently, or until the rhubarb is soft and the sauce is thickened. Divide the warm compote over large wedges of golden pound cake (the richer, the better!), dollop with freshly whipped cream sweetened with Grand Marnier or Peach Schnapps and reawaken to the wonders of spring. BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has written about Northwest food, wine and travel for 16 years and is the author of six books, including the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook. Visit her online at www.NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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12 Swirl, Sniff, Sip

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swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Know when to hold ’em I have several bottles of red wine that are about 20 years old and am concerned about holding them too long. Is it time to drink them? Or can I expect them to last a bit longer?

hat’s easy. Yes. And it depends. That short answer really isn’t much help, is it? So, I’ll try to qualify my answer and offer some guidance that comes with no guarantee. Let me begin by saying I recently have drunk three bottles of 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon made from Columbia Valley grapes. All had been stored carefully, and none had spoiled. But the cork on one was failing and the wine was fading. The second wine’s cork was saturated within a quarter-inch of its top. And the cork of the third was still fine, but it was bottled several years after the first two. The first two bottles both were from Associated Vintners, which later became Columbia Winery. The 1979 vintage produced a minuscule amount of Cabernet Sauvignon because so many red grapevines perished in the harsh winter of 197879. What crop there was produced a super-dense, hard, tannic wine that seemed almost impervious to time. AV’s managers consequently pulled back most of their Cab, held it for several years and re-released it as Millennium. They were convinced it would reach maturity by 2000. And their estimate was justified. Chateau Ste. Michelle held onto its 1979 for several years, finally releasing it at the old Grandview winery in numbered bottles. I picked up a few there when the wine was past a decade old. So, here’s part of your answer. Two of these three bottles were in excellent shape, and the third was drinkable but past its prime because of its saturated cork. That’s easy to diagnose. Examine your bottles’ corks. Are they leaking a bit? Are they swelling and bulging the foil that tops the bottle? If so, when you push on the cork, does it feel soft and a bit squishy? All are signs you should drink the wine now, not later. And with luck, perhaps you’ve caught it in time. Now the 1979 was an unusual wine that was a great candidate for aging. When it was really young, it was clearly not ready to drink. Not all years are like that. In the 1980s, there were years with demonstrated aging potential — 1983 and 1988 come to mind — but 1984 was not. That year was hot and the red wine grapes matured fast, didn’t have the benefit of a long fall on the vine and carried a little more alcohol than many winemakers would have liked. The best 1984s were quite good young but didn’t carry the depth of fruit and acid balance that were hallmarks of 1983. Let me add a couple more words of warning here. I’ve focused on Cabernet for a reason. Most other reds have less aging potential. I wouldn’t count on a Merlot, for example, to age for a couple decades. And the way many reds are made currently would make me reluctant to age them that long. A California Zinfandel that’s 16.5 percent alcohol and a huge fruit bomb without a lot of acid would not be high on my list to keep in the cellar for long. When its fruit fades over 12

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the years, about all that will remain is alcohol. A red wine with little fruit and acid but a load of alcohol is not my ideal. Every fall, the best Northwest winemakers work to avoid that, monitoring a delicate ballet in their vineyards, striving for the ideal hang time as their grapes ripen, seeking the perfect blend of fruit, acid and alcohol potential as sugar levels build in the grapes. In 2004, Scott Hendricks of Windrow Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley explained it this way in an e-mail: “My goal ... is to harvest fruit during what I call the ‘magic time’ — the period between the last week of September and the last week of October.” Fruit “given the proper care to attain full ripeness later in the season has a different set of parameters. I prefer their lower alcohol and love the flavors, most notably the midpalate ones, which seem to be greatly enhanced.” Wine made from such grapes is more likely to have aging potential. It probably will cost more. And it may not have that immediate heady rush of fruit and alcohol that many consumers seem to love because it tastes lush and fruity right now. Wine Words: méthode champenoise

How would we ever get by in the world of wine without its wonderful French phrases, even if most of us stumble and bumble through their pronunciation? Literally, it means the sparkling wine inside this bottle was fermented for the second time inside the bottle in which it is being sold. The second fermentation is what instills the bubbles into the wine. During the first, which takes place in a different container, the wine is fermented completely, with little or no sugar left. For the second fermentation, a bit of sugar, yeast, yeast nutrients and clarifying agents are added to each bottle containing the still wine, and as the yeast ferment out the rest of the sugar, they emit carbon dioxide, and, “Voila!” We have bubbly. That leaves the lees (dead yeast and other debris), which are riddled into the top of the bottle neck, frozen and then blown out by the CO2’s pressure. It’s messy but effective and clarifies the wine. The bottle is then topped up and what the French call liqueure d’expedition is added (which usually includes a small amount of sugar) and sealed with a cork and wire basket. Not all sparkling wine undergoes this complex process. A few still are produced using méthode rurale, in which there is no second fermentation. The wine is bottled before the first fermentation is complete, leaving sediment in the bottle. And there also is bulk fermentation, sometimes called the charmat or tank method, in which the second fermentation occurs in large tanks. And, the cheapest, of course, is simply injecting carbon dioxide into the wine. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 37 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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14 Teri Citterman

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urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

Wedding bells, duct tape and wine

ell, it happened. This winter, the German popped the question, and we’re tying the knot in May. So today I find myself deep in the trenches of the foreboding world of weddings and brides: caterers and florists and photographers, oh my! It’s utter madness. As a little girl, I dreamed of my fairy tale wedding. But now in my 30-somethings, a practical fantasy makes more sense, and simple is the new black. I read in one of those $5 bride magazines that “glamour” is this year’s trend, and I would agree. If you’re a drag queen. If a puffy meringue dress isn’t in your future, well ... options are few. I was in Portland trying on dresses, which is a process all its own. My friend Amanda accompanied me and properly told the truth when something I loved looked atrocious. The challenge for some of us who wore training bras at age 5 is staying within the confines of the dress. Some of the slinkier options require double-sided tape, duct tape and potentially glue. In other words, a train wreck is waiting to happen. The fear that some part of me might come bubbling out is causing me to look rather seriously at the dresses full of bullet-proof boning. My fear of a wardrobe malfunction is deep-seated because it happened to a friend. While dancing on her luxurious wedding day, guests became rather intimate with the bride. I’m told it was a sight well worth the price of admission. Over a glass of Airlie Winery’s 2004 Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley, I contemplated what is truly a lifesaver when you simply pop out on your wedding day (or any day)? This wine said it all. It starts out a little tight. But with some time and energy, it begins to relax and open up — maybe even chill out to some degree. Rich cherry mingles with mixed berry, creating a juicy ripe nectar, sure to be a place to turn after you’ve scooped yourself up and packed it back in — though, at that point, I’d recommend the whole bottle. Since we’re getting married in the cellar of a winery, we thought a DJ would be a good way to go, leaving more space for dancing. I started calling around and struck up a fine enough conversation with DJ Sam. Just as we started really talking nuts and bolts, he mentioned in a very charming way that he’s great at getting people up and dancing. “All it takes is a little Chicken Dance or the Electric Slide and voila!” Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! Hold it right there, Sam. The phone is a real disadvantage right about now because you can’t see that I’m calmly counting to 10 before I hang up. “There will be no Chicken Dance at my wedding,” I declared. Or Electric Slide, Macarena or the like. “Oh, of course,” he started to catch on. “But if someone requests it — because someone always does — I have to play it,” he struggled. 14

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Confident in the tact of my guests, I suggested he could feel free to have them escorted out. He might have got it right then but needless to say, he didn’t make the short list. Might I suggest, dear Sam, a glass of Seven Hills Winery 2003 Planing Mill Red from Walla Walla? It’s masculine — kind of a “pass the salami” sort of wine. Upon one nose dive into the glass, you know what you’re going to get. Nothing subtle here. It’s sturdy and burly and has no need to rely on anything to get people enlivened, up out of their seats. Since this whole production began, I’ve been surprised by those friends and family members, etc., who insist on telling you what you HAVE to HAVE at your wedding. Not surprisingly, we are getting married at a winery, Willamette Valley Vineyards in Turner, Ore., to be exact. So you can guess what the beverage of choice will be. But I’ve been told by a number of folks that I really should have an open bar or at the very least offer our guests beer. My barely 21-year-old nephew is threatening to bring his own keg. “Whatever!” I say. Prime on the list will be a beautiful bottle of Willamette Valley Vineyards 2005 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir. Its essence is frozen fresh strawberries with a mouthful of young Popsicle happiness. The wine seems to change with every swirl and sense, causing my wine-tasting diva friend Kate to exclaim, “Oh, I think I’m in love with P-P-P-Pinot!” By the way, some background: Back in college, I was an intern — in fact, the first intern ever — at Willamette Valley Vineyards. At that point, the winery was simply a trailer and a tank room. Now as an adult, I just want to pinch its cheeks and say, “My how you’ve grown!” Now, I have that whole name thing to deal with. The other day, I received an e-mail from my fiancé, the German — last name Bahm — asking if I was planning to change my name. Change? My name? Why would I do that? I consulted friends: Amanda Weber Welch and Jan Gelman Smith. We weighed the pros and cons over a glass of Townshend Cellars Nonvintage Vortex Red from Spokane. This wine is smooth, balanced and brilliant. It’s an “ease the nerves” kind of wine, almost a liquid Prozac. This wine calls you by anything you want to hear — and you’re happy to follow its suggestions. I e-mailed the German, suggesting we blend our names — Bahmerman or Citterbahm — the latter being a leg up if we ever decide to invest in a well-known pastry franchise. With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She has promoted a number of Washington wineries and is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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great things to do

in Northwest wine country

By ERIC DEGERMAN

Sick of the nasty driving conditions and gray skies? It’s been a particularly hazardous winter on both sides of the Cascades, but brighter and warmer days are ahead. And spring might be the most invigorating and exciting season in Northwest wine country. Touring is easier. Days get longer. And new wines are released. Here’s an early tip: Stock up on the 2005 vintage. Many Northwest winemakers tell us it was the best since we launched Wine Press Northwest in 1998. As for the 2006 vintage, get a sneak peek at a winery near you.

Spring out for the barrel. Unofficially, it’s called “Leonetti Weekend” because it is the only time when those few on “the list” are allowed inside the gates at the Figgins’ legendary Walla Walla winery. Officially, it is Spring Release Weekend for the entire Walla Walla Valley. However, the flood of case buyers that weekend from Western Washington creates ripples of sales throughout the Northwest, particularly in the Yakima Valley. The Yakima Valley offers its barrel tasting the prior weekend, April 27-29. In the Spokane area, it’s always held Mother’s Day weekend (May 11-13) and

QUALITY COMES FROM THE V I N E YA R D

Planted in 1993 by Doug Fries, the Desert Wind Vineyard produces superior fruit as a result of first-class vineyard practices and a prime location. As traditions are handed down, the fruit is relinquished to winemaker and son, Greg Fries, who produces the Desert Wind wines to showcase the tremendous quality and distinct character of the vineyard.

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includes Coeur d’Alene Cellars in Idaho. In Lake Chelan, barrel tasting runs May 18-20. A week later in the Willamette Valley (May 26-28), wineries open their doors for barrel tasting and more. For a more intimate experience, the Umpqua Valley sells tickets ($45) to barrel tours via a bus. Food is served at each winery. The first trip is April 14. The second comes May 5. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org or call Carlson Travel at 541-672-5701.

Check out the blossoms in B.C. The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, set for May 3-6, has been described as “one of Canada’s best small festivals” and it is no wonder that its success continues to grow. There were a couple of Canadians on my college golf team, and they schooled U.S. students when it came to partying. Bacchanalia is the signature event and is held at the Penticton Lakeside Resort on May 5. More than 40 wineries pour at the food-and-wine bash founded in 1995 by Jack Swoboda, who grabbed it away from Kelowna in a coup. Cost is $60. Go to owfs.com for more information. Another among the 100+ events during that week are the Casabella Prince Wine Cruises. This paddlewheeler takes guests on Okanagan Lake as you get to taste through regional wines, hors d’oeuvres, cheeses and pastries. Visit casabellaprincess.com.

Mind your manners. It’s easy to be polite, but not all of us know our way around a formal dining table. Is the water glass near my knife meant for me? Oops, did I just eat off your bread plate? Dieter Schafer, a wine educator and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY sommelier in Seattle, is glad to help. Join him March 26 for a fine-dining etiquette seminar featuring Washington wines at Geneva on Eighth Avenue. Cost is $70. Call 206-624-2222, e-mail WineDieter@cs.com or go to GenevaRestaurant.com. By the way, here’s a tip I recently learned at a wine judges dinner. Think “DRink,” which stands for “drink right.” Your glass is near your knife.

Cut the cheese. I quote two of my favorite entertainers — Beavis and Butt-head — in reference to the third annual Seattle Cheese Festival on May 18-20 at Seattle’s Pike Place Market. DeLaurenti’s helps with the wine-andcheese pairings, and there’s a long list of restaurants participating. Go to seattlecheesefestival.com for more info. Too long ago, back in 2005, we featured some Northwest artisan cheeses. One of the stars was Rollingstone Chevre (homepage.mac.com/chevre/) in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. Another Idaho creamery has popped up on our radar — Ballard Family. Jon Mortimer, a past Match Maker chef in Boise, took their Jersey cream cheddar to the James Beard House. For more information, go to ballardcheese.com.

Feast at the Washington Wines Festival. Last summer, we featured Waterfront Seafood Grill in Seattle as a Match Maker, and GM Christian Sparkman was stoked. He’d just learned that he and executive chef Steve Cain would play host to the 16th annual Washington Wines Festival. It’s April 13, which is Taste Washington Eve. Guests will enjoy more than 30 elite Washington wines and meet the winemakers. Auction proceeds go to FareStart and the Washington Wine Education Foundation. There will be live music and dancing, too. Cost is $350. To dine with a winemaker at your table is $500. Go to waterfrontpier70.com or call Suzanne Hight at 206-236-6167. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Taste and Taste some more. Which of the Taste Washington events, Seattle or Spokane, is better? Seattle celebrates its tin/aluminum anniversary — 10 years — on April 14-15. It’s back to two days, and the Sunday public tasting returns to the Qwest Field Exhibition Center. Spokane’s event celebrates its sixth anniversary (candy or iron) and remains at the Davenport Hotel. The ambiance is reminiscent of the early Taste Washington Seattle years at the Paramount. Auction proceeds benefit Washington State University’s viticulture/enology and hospitality programs. So, go Cougs. And go to tastewashington.org for information.

Provide some seed money. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the music-focused Festivals at Sandpoint, Idaho, and there’s an annual wine tasting, dinner and auction

April 27 to raise funds for the star-studded August concert series. Hometown favorite Pend d’Oreille Winery anchors the array of wines, many from the Northwest, that will be poured at the Bonner County Fairgrounds. Auction items include golf at the Coeur d’Alene Resort and skiing at Schweitzer Mountain. For information, call 208-265-4554 or go to sandpointonline.com.

Meet one of your makers. Perhaps the best conversation you’ll have with a vintner will be at a restaurant during a winemaker’s dinner. More are embracing the idea, but Steamboat Inn on the shores of Oregon’s North Umpqua River takes it to another level. It brings in outside chefs to create the dinners. For example, on May 12, Portland chef Caprial Pence — a charming TV star and former Match Maker — and husband/fellow chef John prepare cuisine with Spangler Vineyards wine-

maker/owner Patrick Spangler. Hors d’oeuvres in the library lead into dinner at this Southern Oregon getaway near Crater Lake. Call 800-840-8825 or go to thesteamboatinn.com.

Head to Yakima, then flip a coin. What a weekend in the Palm Springs of Washington! On June 23, there’s the Grand Gala Benefit Auction at the DeAtley estate. Think Hearst Castle, only with kind owners and a helicopter view of Yakima. Vicky McCaffree of Seattle’s Yarrow Bay Grill caters the delicious dinner with live music poolside to follow. It’s a long story, but trust me, it’s easy to get caught up in the bidding. Cost is $1,000. Call 206-285-0514 or go to winecountrycelebration.com. Across town on the same night is the Sunshine & Wine Festival/Dinner. You taste and discover which wines won medals at the Washington State Wine Competition. There’s local food, music and a silent auction. Proceeds help renovate the Central Washington State Fair’s historical buildings. Cost is $70 for the festival or $130 for festival and dinner. Call 509-248-7160 or go sunshineandwine.com.

Wine and ski in Grand style in Eastern Oregon. Last, and perhaps least, join me for a Northwest wine appreciation weekend March 23-25 at the Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City, Ore. There will be a reception and winetasting class Friday night, a Saturday dinner prepared by executive chef Pedro T. Cabrales — a past Match Maker — and a Sunday morning sparkling wine brunch. That is, if I’m not too sore from skiing at nearby Anthony Lakes. Two-night packages start at $132 per person. Call 888-434-7374 or go to geisergrand.com for more information. What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

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W I N E C O U N T RY

March 26-1 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Vancouver, B.C. This is the 29th year of the event, which features 180 wineries from 17 countries and raises funds for the playhouse. Call 604-873-3311 or go to playhousewinefest.com. 31 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. Northwest wines take center stage at the 18th annual fund-raiser for St. Martin’s University. Cost is $12. Call 800-220-7722 or go to capitalfoodandwine.com. 31-1 Passport to Woodinville, Woodinville, Wash. Organizers limit ticket sales to the first 3,500 guests, and these are the only two days of the year during which all these wineries are open to the public. Cost is $50. Call 425-482-7348.

April 6-7 Sixth Annual Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamin’s Edgefield Winery is the site as winemakers and distributors meet in an international Syrah showdown. Call 503-669-8610 or go to celebrationofsyrah.com 14-15 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington’s signature wine event returns to the Qwest Field Event Center. Tickets start at $85. Go to tastewashington.org. 21 An Evening of Wine and Flowers, Spokane, Wash. An auction of Washington wines and a menu to match raises money for St. Luke’s Rehabilitation Institute. Cost is $125. Call 509-473-6099 or go to festivalofwineandflowers.com. 27-29 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases the 50+ wineries in the Northwest’s oldest appellation. Call 800-2587270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org 27-29 Astoria-Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival. Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries. Call 800-875-6807 or go to oldoregon.com

May 3-6 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to owfs.com or call 250-861-6654. 5-6 Portland Indie Wine Festival, Portland. Wineries with production of less than 2,000 cases compete for the right to pour at this multiple-day block party in the Pearl District. Cost is $60. Call 503-595-0891 or go to indiewinefestival.com. 5-6 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. One of two weekends during which nearly every winery is open. Call 509-526-3117 or go wallawallawine.com. 11-13 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Spokane-area wineries open their doors to visitors on Mothers Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net. 12 Toast to the Northwest, University of Washington, Seattle. Proceeds of this second-annual event, which features more than 100 wineries throughout the Northwest, benefit the Husky Marching Band. Cost is $60. Go to toastnw.com 12 Tacoma Wine Classic, Tacoma, Wash. Last year, this high-end Washington wine tasting, dinner and auction raised $124,000 for Tacoma Community College. Cost is $125. Call 253-460-4318 or e-mail bcregeur@tacomacc.edu. 26-28 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country, Willamette Valley, Ore. This is one of two valley-wide events all year. Call 503-646-2985 or go to willamettewines.com.

June 8-10 Sun Valley Food & Wine Festival, Sun Valley, Idaho. A first-year event, weekend all-event passes cost $250. Call 800-634-3347 or go to sunvalleyfoodandwinefestival.com. 17 Taste Washington, Spokane, Wash. The Davenport Hotel plays host to the sixth year of this event. Cost starts at $75. Go to tastewashington.org. 23 Sunshine & Wine, Yakima, Wash. Sample wines that garnered medals in the Washington State Wine Competition while enjoying food, music and an auction at State Fair Park. Cost is $70. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Provide some seed money. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the music-focused Festivals at Sandpoint, Idaho, and there’s an annual wine tasting, dinner and auction

maker/owner Patrick Spangler. Hors d’oeuvres in the library lead into dinner at this Southern Oregon getaway near Crater Lake. Call 800-840-8825 or go to thesteamboatinn.com.

Head to Yakima, then flip a coin. What a weekend in the Palm Springs of Washington! On June 23, there’s the Grand Gala Benefit Auction at the DeAtley estate. Think Hearst Castle, only with kind owners and a helicopter view of Yakima. Vicky McCaffree of Seattle’s Yarrow Bay Grill caters the delicious dinner, with live music poolside to follow. It’s a long story, but trust me, it’s easy to get caught up in the bidding. Cost is $1,000. Call 206-285-0514 or go to winecountrycelebration.com. Across town on the same night is the Sunshine & Wine Festival/Dinner. You taste and discover which wines won medals at the Washington State Wine Competition. There’s local food, music and a silent auction. Proceeds help renovate the Central Washington State Fair’s historical buildings. Cost is $70 for the festival or $130 for festival and dinner. Call 509-248-7160 or go sunshineandwine.com.

Wine and ski in Grand style in Eastern Oregon. Last, and perhaps least, join me and my wife for a Northwest wine appreciation weekend March 23-25 at the Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City, Ore. There will be a reception and winetasting class Friday night, a Saturday dinner prepared by executive chef Pedro T. Cabrales — a past Match Maker — and a Sunday morning sparkling wine brunch. That is, if I’m not too sore from skiing at nearby Anthony Lakes. Two-night packages start at $188 per person. Call 888-434-7374 or go to geisergrand.com for more information. What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

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eugene, ore.

Eugene adds red, white to green reputation By HOLLY LEITNER Eugene has a reputation as being verdant green in more ways than just the University of Oregon school color. In the past few years, this region is

talking red and white, too, as a vibrant wine culture continues to grow in the southern Willamette Valley. The leader is King Estate, an organic winery south of Eugene first planted in 1991. This majestic 1,000-acre

estate includes orchards, gardens and a tasting room offering everything from vintage Pinot Noir to fresh dessert wines. Also along the Territorial Highway are Chateau Lorane, Iris Hill, Silvan Ridge/Hinman Vineyards and Sweet Cheeks Winery. Sweet

Cheeks features a Tuscan-inspired 50-year-old structure that overlooks the Briggs Hill Valley. It opened its doors on Thanksgiving 2005 after years of selling grapes to Oregon wineries. Each Friday night, Sweet Cheeks offers “Twilight Tastings,” pairings with artisan cheese. Other tasting rooms in the area include Secret House in Veneta — emerging as a prime Northwest concert venue — Benton-Lane, LaVelle, High Pass and Territorial Vineyards and Wine Co. Territorial, a downtown Eugene winery, was Wine Press Northwest’s Oregon Winery to Watch in 2005. Back in town, many restaurants and cafés boast impressive wine lists. Midtown Wine Store and Bar routinely has 35 bottles open for tasting six days a week. Twice a month, Midtown hosts winemaker dinners. This spring, sommelier Tim Shimmel will conduct vineyard tours. Sundance Wine Cellars, downtown on Alder Street, specializes in Oregon and Washington wines and features complimentary tastings Fridays and Saturdays from 4-6 p.m. Also on the downtown wine trail is Oregon Wine Warehouse. Tastings are Wednesdays through Sundays. On campus, enrollment is 20,000 and the school’s sports fans have had many victories to celebrate. Among the favorite watering holes are Rennie’s Landing, which is filled with TVs, and Bier Stein Bottle Shop and Pub, home to more than 700 selections of beer. There also are three McMenamins in town. For dinner, try the elegant Mediterranean-themed restaurant, Café Soriah, a regular winner of Eugene Weekly’s “best” awards. Another locally owned restaurant is The Vintage Restaurant and Dessert Bar, serving up fon20

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eugene, ore. due, crepes and hefty glasses of wine at light prices. If you are looking for a quick lunch spot with a great wine list, try the Broadway Bistro & Market, Midtown Café and Delicatessen or Zenon. Springtime offers many cultural outlets. The Eugene Symphony brings international talent. OPUS6IX on Seventh Avenue is an art gallery that often incorporates regional wines into its events. For late-night live performances, check the local listings at Jo Federigo’s Restaurant & Jazz Club or Sam Bonds Garage. And the eclectic side of Eugene unveils itself each spring through fall weekend at Saturday Market downtown. Where there is wine, there is usually golf, and Eugene boasts Fiddler’s Green — recognized throughout the Northwest as one of the best golf shops in the country. For more active outdoor enthusiasts, Eugene is an easy place to get away from and get back to within the same day. The Pacific Ocean is 60 miles away and offers stunning hikes along Yachats’ rigid coastline. A similar distance east of Eugene,

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COURTESY OF UPSHOTZ/TRAVELLANECOUNTY.COM

Eugene, home to the University of Oregon, is developing into a hub for wine travelers in the southern Willamette Valley. A growing number of wineries, vineyards, wine shops, restaurants and lodging choices can be found in and around Eugene.

along Highway 126, is Belknap Hot Springs Resort and its two pools of warm and rich mineral water. Not far off is Terwilliger, a k a Cougar Hot Springs. A Forest Service pass

($5) is required. Clothing is optional, which appeals to the college crowd. HOLLY LEITNER is a freelance writer and wine enthusi-

ast who lives in Eugene.

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WINE VIEWS

Bargain Bob finds NW thrills in judging By ‘BARGAIN’ BOB WOEHLER To twist the lyrics of a couple of songs, I’ve found my thrill in San Francisco. Five terrific Northwest bargains earned top medals this winter at the annual San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, which attracted 3,800 wines and 55 professional judges, including Andy Perdue, Eric Degerman and Dan Berger, all of Wine Press Northwest. When you consider two of the wines I’m recommending won double gold, two others gold and the fifth a silver, it pays to read on. Hogue Cellars 2005 Genesis Riesling, Columbia Valley, $16: A double gold medal

winner. Rich and crisp, the wine has aromas and flavors of orange, grapefruit zest, peach and lush pineapple. The bal-

ance between its racy acidity and moderate sweetness makes the Genesis Riesling wonderful as an aperitif or a delicious complement to spicy Southeast Asian dishes, such as chicken satay. Hogue Cellars 2005 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley, $7: Won a gold. This is a refresh-

ing white with plenty of fruit character. Up-front aromas of pear and white peach, with hints of almonds, vanilla and cherries. The flavors are rich and soft with pear and peach notes. Serve with light pasta dishes, shrimp or chicken fettuccini Alfredo. Barnard Griffin 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $11: Won a gold. It is

packed with exotic tropical fruit and is delightfully dry on the palate. This European-style rosé has great depth and character. It is fruity yet dry, which allows it to be served with almost any summer food. Good acidity mingles

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with the soft fruit flavors of 100 percent Sangiovese. Pavin and Riley Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $10: Won a dou-

ble gold. This is a stunner with sweet tannins and juicy berry flavors. The aromas are light oak and huckleberries. It can stand up to a wine three times its price. I tried this with 55 guests at a tasting, and it was their favorite. Erath Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir, Oregon, $16: A silver winner. Bright, fresh fruit

aromas of cherry, raspberry and blueberry fill the glass. Youthfully exuberant with lots of sweet fruit on the palate with hints of spice and vanilla. So versatile with food — fish, fowl, beef, pasta. The perfect house red! Please note this wine is sealed with a twist-off cap to ensure quality. BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.

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WINE NEWS

Bonny Doon has crush on Washington Riesling By ANNA KING The owner of California’s famous and quirky Bonny Doon Vineyards broke ground in February on a $5.7 million winery near Washington’s Red Mountain.

Pacific Rim Wine Co. would be the largest winery in the U.S. dedicated solely to producing Riesling wines if the owners produce their planned 300,000 cases yearly.

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Washington’s Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in Woodinville is the largest Riesling producer in the world, making 600,000 cases last year. The 30,000-square-foot Pacific Rim winery will be built in the Port of Kennewick’s industrial park in West Richland and is to be completed in time for this year’s crush. Randall Grahm — owner of Bonny Doon — started Pacific Rim in 1984. The winery produces 100,000 cases of three styles of Riesling — sweet, dry and dessert. The dry and sweet white wines sell at $12 a bottle and the dessert sells for $16 a half-bottle. The project is a collaboration between Grahm and Columbia Valley brothers Andy and Bill Den Hoed, who own Desert Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley and Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The partners have no plans to open a tasting room. The wine always has been made from Columbia Valley grapes that are pressed in Washington, with the juice trucked to California. But about three years ago, Bonny Doon officials decided it would be better to produce and market the wine closer to where the grapes are harvested. The Den Hoeds plan to grow the grapes and produce the wine, while Pacific Rim officials will market the wines and provide the general manager and winemaking team. Nicolas Quille — general manager of Bonny Doon and a former winemaker for Hogue Cellars in Prosser — will manage the winery. The move to the Pacific Northwest is part of Bonny Doon’s recent restructuring, he said. The winery laid off about 40 of its 100 employees in California, sold two of its largest labels — Bonny Doon’s Big House and Cardinal Zin — and has cut production from 400,000 cases to 40,000 cases. All the remaining wine for Bonny Doon will be made from estate vineyards. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE NEWS

Mike Hogue back into wine with Mercer Estates By MARY HOPKIN His name won’t be on the label, but Mike Hogue’s reputation and experience will more than fill the bottles after the first crush at his new Yakima Valley winery, Mercer Estates. Land is being leveled at the 9-acre site just east of Kestrel Vintners in the Prosser Wine and Food Park, and construction on the $2 million, 16,500square-foot production facility is expected to be complete in time for crush. Hogue started Hogue Cellars in 1981. Twenty years later, he sold the 400,000case operation to Vincor, and signed a five-year, no-compete clause in a $36.4 million deal. Last year, Vincor was sold to Constellation, the world’s largest wine company. Now, Hogue has teamed with another recognizable name, Bud Mercer — whose family members were pioneers in the Prosser area — to start all over.

In the short time since Hogue sold the winery bearing his family name, the wine industry is overflowing in Prosser. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates built a tasting room for Snoqualmie Vineyards. The Port of Benton then built the North Prosser Business Park, which has high visibility from Interstate 82. Willow Crest and Thurston Wolfe were first to build tasting rooms in the park. Olsen Estates and the Winemaker’s Loft are nearly complete, and construction has started on Airfield Estates. Two more wineries, RiverAerie Cellars and Milbrandt Vineyards, hope to break ground this year, as well. In addition, Desert Wind Vineyard, a large adobe-style tasting room with banquet facilities and a handful of hotel rooms overlooking the Yakima River and the freeway, opened in February. Prosser’s makeover was hard to miss — and even harder for a guy such as

Hogue, who had spent 20 years making wine, to resist. During a round of golf, Hogue talked to Mercer about teaming with him to start a winery. They spent last year looking for a site. In September, they bought the large lot on the east end of the Prosser Wine and Food Park for $184,000. And although Hogue couldn’t get his name back, he did lure winemaker David Forsyth from Hogue. Forsyth, who spent 22 years making wine at Hogue, will be Mercer Estates’ winemaker and general manager. Forsyth is excited about the opportunity to get back into a family operation and to do something a little different. “I’ll be able to develop richer, fuller, more complex wines — ultra-premium wines that showcase the unique qualities of the Horse Heaven Hills and Yakima Valley appellations,” he said.

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4 new books for wine lovers NW wine shop By ANDY PERDUE “Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass” by Natalie MacLean, Bloomsbury, 2006, $24.

For many wine writers, the concept of getting their hands dirty means spilling a bit of red wine on them as they taste from a barrel in a dimly lit cellar. For Natalie MacLean, it means getting into the vineyard, working behind the counter of a wine shop or serving wine to customers in a restaurant. These jobs and more are what Canadian wine writer MacLean did to research her book Red, White and Drunk All Over, a raucous romp through the world of wine. MacLean loves wine with unbridled exuberance, and her witty and approachable writing reveals it. She talks the talk, walks the walk and drinks the drink. The only things dry in this book are the wines she glugs. “The Simple and Savvy Wine Guide: Buying, Pairing & Sharing for All” by Leslie Sbrocco, William Morrow, 2006, $15.

Leslie Sbrocco’s new book, The Simple and Savvy Wine Guide, is a luscious followup to her first effort, Wine for Women. This book focuses on taking the mystery out of wine, especially when it comes to pairing with food. She breaks down the world of wine with clever and clear writing, then offers a few examples of wines to try, usually bottles that are readily available. Her chapter on “Bathtub Wines” perfectly exemplifies her attitude: “I have kids and a husband. I have a job. I have stress. Sound familiar? If so, I’m going to share a secret with you. One of my absolute favorite places to enjoy wine is in the bathtub.” She selects wines to enjoy while soaking in the tub including, appropriately enough, Snoqualmie Vineyards’ Naked Riesling from Washington’s Columbia Valley. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

“Fine Wine and Terroir: The Geoscience Perspective” edited by R.W. Macqueen and L.D. Meinert, Geoscience Canada, 2006, $50 CDN.

directory

Over the years, Larry Meinert, former Washington State University geology professor, has delighted in studying wine from the perspective of soil. Meinert, now a professor at Smith College in Massachusetts, published several articles in Geoscience Canada, a rather academic publication out of Newfoundland. Now Meinert and Roger Macqueen of Calgary, Alberta, have edited this reprint series from Geoscience Canada of various articles dealing with the concept of terroir, that relationship between wine grapes and their environment. Though this book goes around the world in its study of terroir, the Pacific Northwest gets more than its fair share of coverage. Inside are articles on the Walla Walla Valley, Okanagan Valley, Red Mountain, Umpqua Valley and Snake River Valley.

Spring additions to our annual paid directory.

“Thomas Jefferson on Wine” by John Hailman, University Press of Mississippi, 2006, $38.

Washington Seattle VESTA WINE CELLARS, 8016 15th Ave NE, Mapleleaf neighborhood in Seattle. Tues-Sat. Saturday tastings 1-5 p.m. Sample premier WA wines & small production worldwide wines. (206) 729-5988 • vestawinecellars.com

Tacoma WILDSIDE WINE, just off Sixth, Tacoma, WA at 608 A S. Oxford (3 blocks E of Jackson around the corner from JT’s in the theater building). Call for our e-mail newsletter specials! Open Wed-Fri: 3-7; Sat: 1-6 • 253-565-0811 WINE BANK, 7017 27th St W.,University Place, WA 98466. Open Tues-Sat. Saturday tastings. Wine club; weekly e-mail specials. We ship! Great wines, great prices, great service! 253-564-1101 • www.winebankup.com

Northwest Washington EVERGREEN CELLARS, Snohomish, WA 1101 First St. Premium wines of the Pacific NW; Open Tues-Sun. Tastings: Fri, Sat & Sun. evergreencellars.com • 360-568-2840 • We ship!

Central Washington

For wine lovers, Thomas Jefferson was no doubt our nation’s greatest leader. The third president and author of the Declaration of Independence was the United States’ leading expert on wine in his time, thanks in part to his being exposed to the great wines of Europe while he served as minister to France from 1785 to 1789. Jefferson wrote hundreds of letters that referred to the wines he purchased and drank, and he kept extensive notes on various bottles and what he paid for them. In the mid-1970s, John Hailman was a wine columnist for The Washington Post and got the opportunity to study hundreds of letters Jefferson had written on wine and was asked if he’d be interested in studying them. Hailman jumped at the opportunity, which turned into a 30-year odyssey and the new book Thomas Jefferson on Wine. Hailman tackles this slice of American history with vigor and enthusiasm, dissecting Jefferson’s interests in wine and following him to Europe and back.

MANSON RED APPLE MARKET WINES The best local wines of the Chelan Valley in one convenient location: 1610 Wapato Way in Manson, WA near beautiful Lake Chelan. Daily 6 a.m.-10 p.m. • (509) 687-3168

Spokane NIKO’S WINE BAR & RETAIL, Spokane, WA One of the Northwest's best wine selections in the heart of downtown: 725 W. Riverside Ave. 509-444-7001 • www.nikosspokane.com

Washington Coast THE CELLAR WINE SHOPPE, Ocean Shores, 668 Ocean Shores Blvd NW. Open: Thurs-Mon. 360-289-2909 • www.thecellarwineshoppe.com

Oregon Bend THE WINE SHOP & TASTING BAR, Bend, OR 924 NW Brooks St., Suite 100. Friday Night events; Wine Clubs; Worldwide wine selection. 541-389-2884 • thewineshopbend.com

Eugene SUNDANCE WINE CELLARS, 2470 Alder St. Eugene. Experience the most comprehensive wine shop in Eugene! Featuring fine wines from around the world and specializing in Oregon & Washington wines. Enjoy our complimentary wine tastings every Friday & Saturday 4:00-6:00 PM. Visit Oregon Wine Merchants, our online store at www.orwines.com. If you prefer speaking directly with one of our wine stewards give us a call at 800-679-4637.

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Left to right: Joe, Pat, Carrie and Adam Campbell.

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2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year:

ELK COVE VINEYARDS S T O RY B Y A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

dam Campbell is all about passion. For his family, for his parents — and especially for Oregon wine. The winemaker and co-owner of Elk Cove Vineyards in Gaston, Ore. — our 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year — grew up at the feet of the Oregon wine industry’s pioneering giants, folks such as David Adelsheim, Dick Erath, David Lett, Dick Ponzi and his parents, Joe and Pat Campbell. “I remember going to growers meetings and being dragged along to wine events with all of those characters,” said Adam, 36, who was 3 when his parents moved to northern Yamhill County in 1973, planted a vineyard in 1974 and launched Elk Cove in 1977. “In some ways, it’s humbling and gives me perspective. I have total respect for what my folks and other pioneers did,” he said. “And yet, there’s so much more work to be done.” Today, many of Adam’s best friends are other second-generation winemakers, including Luisa Ponzi, Jason Lett and Alex Sokol-Blosser. And among those he most respects and relies on are Lynn Penner-Ash, Laurent Montalieu and Ken Wright, part of the second wave of winemakers who pushed the quality of Oregon wine to the next level in the ’80s and ’90s. Adam’s mother grew up on a pear

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farm near Hood River and had a strong desire to be in agriculture. When she and Joe decided to plant a vineyard near the town of Gaston, only 200 acres of grapes were being grown statewide. “It was a lucky fluke that they decided to jump into growing Pinot Noir,” Adam said. Joe and Pat were very much equal partners in the business, with Pat handling the viticulture and running the business and Joe focusing on the winemaking. Adam and his two brothers and two sisters grew up amid the vines and around the winery. “I loved growing up on the property, exploring the areas and running through the woods,” he said. “It was a great way to grow up.” Around the dinner table, the talk of wine and viticulture permeated conversations. But Adam was the only sibling who caught the winemaking bug. After earning a degree in political science from Lewis & Clark College in Portland, he returned home. By the mid-1990s, Joe and Pat had no less passion for Pinot Noir, though they were running out of energy to operate Elk Cove. If Adam hadn’t returned to take over, he figures they would have sold the winery and retired. Today, Adam and his wife, Carrie, are co-owners with Joe and Pat. Pat still tends the winery’s gardens, and Joe comes in to taste through barrels with Adam. Adam and Carrie live with their two sons and daughter at Five Mountain, a 26-acre vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains originally planted by the Ponzis. Adam learned his winemaking in the vineyard and the cellar, just as his father did. But the business is very different now. Instead of family members handling all aspects of the business, Elk Cove relies on sales and marketing people, an assistant winemaker and a cellarmaster. Adam sees this as a maturation of the entire wine industry. “I’m really fortunate to have a

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group of folks passionate about wine, who want to work to help me build up Elk Cove,” he said. Among its 30,000 cases of wine produced annually, Elk Cove’s focus is on four varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Riesling. Adam crafts five Pinot Noirs. About 80 percent of it is the Willamette Valley blend, which he calls his most important wine. At $25, it’s often the first Elk Cove red customers will be exposed to on store shelves, in restaurants or at the winery. Additionally, he crafts four vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs: Windhill, La Bohéme, Mount Richmond and Roosevelt. “For the single-vineyard wines, we do a lot of hand work in the vineyard,” Adam said. “We make three thinning passes to really fine-tune the crop. Yields are always under two tons per acre. That’s important because these wines need to be super-concentrated.” Adam’s Pinot Gris is among the best in the Northwest, earning top ratings from Wine Press Northwest and other publications. The 11,000 cases are blended from 15 vineyard sources throughout the Willamette Valley. He ferments it in stainless steel with no malolactic fermenta-

GETTING TO E L K C O V E V I N E YA R D S

➤ Address: 27751 N.W. Olson Road, Gaston, OR 97119 ➤ Phone: 503-985-7760 ➤ Website: www.elkcove.com ➤ Hours: Tasting room open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. ➤ Directions: Elk Cove is 25 miles west of Portland. Take Highway 99W to Newberg, Highway 240 to Yamhill and Highway 47 to Gaston. Turn west on Olson Road near the post office and follow the signs to the winery.

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AWARDS INFO H O W T H E PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T W I N E RY O F THE YEAR IS CHOSEN

The Winery of the Year is selected by a panel of industry judges based on a set of criteria, including longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations the judges deem important. A winery may win the award only once. PA S T PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T W I N E R I E S OF THE YEAR

➤ 2006: Barnard Griffin, Richland, Wash. ➤ 2005: Ken Wright Cellars, Carlton, Ore.

➤ 2004: L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash. ➤ 2003: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. ➤ 2002: Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash. HOW THE REGIONAL WINERIES OF THE YEAR ARE CHOSEN

Regional wineries of the year are selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest based on blind tastings, visits, accolades and other considerations. Wineries of the Year must have completed at least five vintages, while Wineries to Watch must have been in business no more than five years. 2006 WINNERS

➤

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tion and bottles it early, capturing the freshness of the fruit. Rounding out his offerings are 1,200 cases of Pinot Blanc and 1,000 cases of Riesling, two Alsatian-style whites that fit his winemaking style. Pinot Blanc is more aromatic than Pinot Gris and is a sushi or oyster wine vs. salmon for Pinot Gris. Nowhere to be found is Chardonnay, once the white wine of choice for Oregon. “I don’t make a drop of Chardonnay,” Adam said. “We grafted over the last Chardonnay vines in 1998. I like to drink it, but I’m not passionate about the winemaking associated with Chardonnay.” In Burgundy, the two grapes worth talking about are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but Adam holds no romantic notions about the latter in Oregon. “I would be happy to put Oregon Pinot Noir up against any in the world,” he said. “I’ve never felt that 34

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Winery of the Year: Snoqualmie Vineyards, Prosser. ➤ Washington Winery to Watch: Five Star Cellars, Walla Walla. ➤ Oregon Winery of the Year: Argyle Winery, Dundee. ➤ Oregon Winery to Watch: Zerba Cellars, Milton-Freewater. ➤ British Columbia Winery of the Year: Gehringer Brothers, Oliver. ➤ British Columbia Winery to Watch: Laughing Stock Vineyards, Penticton. ➤ Idaho Winery of the Year: Sawtooth Winery, Nampa. ➤ Idaho Winery to Watch: Coeur d’Alene Cellars, Coeur d’Alene.

way about Chardonnay.” Before he became Elk Cove’s winemaker, Adam spent three years in vineyard management and development. The viticultural side very much remains his focus today. “I spend as much time in the vineyard as I can, trying to grow perfect fruit,” he said. The better fruit, he figures, the more hands-off the winemaking can be. “With Pinot Noir, I’m a purist about gentle handling and unextracted techniques. “I really want to hang the grapes out there and get perfect fruit. If that means waiting through rain, then that means waiting through rain. We have rain scares even in good vintages, and people can jump the gun out there. If you pick too early, you’ll make good wine. But you won’t make great wine.” Vineyard sources are one of Adam’s greatest concerns. Because

Adam Campbell is passionate about white wines even though the Willamette Valley is well known for its Pinot Noir.

the Oregon wine industry doesn’t have a history of traditional farmers embracing viticulture, most vineyards are connected to wineries. Growing grapes — especially Pinot Noir — can be tough because of the work involved and the low yields needed to make great wines. Of the

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Among the sights at Elk Cove Vineyard is a mounted elk’s head displayed with wine bottles dating back to the ‘70s.

20 growers Adam works with, only one makes a living from farming. “Traditional agriculture hasn’t embraced the level of work needed to keep yields low,” he said. Thus, he and other winemakers are planting more estate vineyards, which will give them secure sources

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of fruit and greater control over quality. He hopes to double his 150 acres of estate vineyards in the next half-decade. In his winemaking and in life, Adam is nothing short of philosophical. “One thing about wine: You only

get so many vintages. You only get 30 chances at it in a lifetime.”ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 or editor@winepressnw.com. Read his blog, The Wine Knows, at community.winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

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could work on my own wines,” Wolfe said. “So when I left in the summer of 2004, there’s been a pretty dramatic change in the style and change in the quality of our wines as I’ve had more time to spend on them.” The results are in the bottle, judging by the numbers of awards earned at competitions around the United States and in Wine Press Northwest. Golds include the 2004 Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills; 2004 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah, Horse Heaven Hills; 2004 Sweet Rebecca, Yakima Valley; 2005 Lemberger Rosato, and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. The Wade Wolfe 2004 Howling Wolfe and Becky Zinfandel and 2003 Destiny Yeaman Ridge Vineyard Cab were PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM deemed “Outstanding!” in recent months by Wine Press Northwest. “We think you need to get your name out as we expand around the Northwest and beyond,” Wolfe said. “For example with our Zin, we want to show there’s someone other than California producing it. “If we get a positive award, that helps market our wines,” Wolfe added. Prosser, Wash. “And I try to look at the wines that didn’t do well to see what styles are BY ERIC DEGERMAN appreciated by judges and winemakers. Then I pair that up with the conor three decades, Wade Wolfe sumer response, so the competitions has worked wonders throughare good feedback mechanisms.” out the Yakima Valley, often Wolfe, 56, makes repeated referout of the public eye. ences to “our” and “we” because he So on first glance, the title of works so closely with his co-owner Washington Winery of the Year might — wife Becky Yeaman. seem like a “lifetime service” award. “It’s truly a joint effort in everyA problem with that conclusion is the thing we do, from sourcing the wines from Thurston Wolfe in Prosser grapes, making the style of wine, the are stunning — and getting better. kind of oak, and she deserves as It was merely a matter of time. For much of the credit as I would get,” years he was the general manager at Wolfe said. “She tastes through the Hogue Cellars. blends and has a significant or final “Obviously, when I had a full-time say on what we put together in the job at Hogue, it was only on weekblend. Fortunately, we have very ends, nights and holidays when I

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compatible palates.” Her focus is sales, marketing, distribution and operating the retail side at their new upscale winery in the Prosser Vintner Village. “This was our third winery, and we knew what we needed,” said Yeaman, who was managing the tasting room at Quail Run — now Covey Run — in 1985 when Stan Clarke set her up with Wolfe. “The tasting room side was kind of easy. I knew I wanted a patio, a fireplace and a big tasting bar where people can enjoy themselves.” It is a showpiece, just off Interstate 82. The list of wineries to follow them to the village is expected to reach six in 2007. “There were about six wineries in Prosser when we started in 1987,” Wolfe said. “At last count, there are at least 23.” The new facility has a production capacity for 7,000 cases. When he left Hogue, Thurston Wolfe was at 2,500 cases. It’s already at 4,000. Wolfe’s true passion, though, may still be in the vineyard. A product of the Sierra Nevada foothills, he received his doctorate in 1976 from U.C. Davis in grape genetics. And he relished talking about Zephyr Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. “In the late ’90s, a lot of what was grown there was dictated by demand — Chardonnay, Merlot, Cab and Syrah,” Wolfe said. “I found a couple of sites that weren’t too appealing and chose them for Zin and Petite Sirah. They were steep slopes, rocky soils. Land that wasn’t suitable for commercial blocks.” It’s no coincidence he has turned that fruit into nationally acclaimed wines in such a short period of time. “This will be my 30th crush in Washington,” Wolfe said. “Generally, I’ve been recognized for contributions through viticulture at Chateau Ste. Michelle and Hogue Cellars, then as a consultant. Now, I’m staking my claim on the winemaking side.” ı Thurston Wolfe Winery, 588 Cabernet Court., Prosser Wash., 509-786-1764, www.thurstonwolfe.com.

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his headhunting skill, mainly the buying public and the circuit of wine judges. The combination of Mitrakul’s talents and estate fruit from Mike Mrachek and wife Laura Laurent Mrachek made St. Laurent an easy choice for Washington Winery to Watch. “For the rest of our lives, we’ll be indebted to Charlie,” Mike Mrachek said. This year, St. Laurent’s 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Wahluke Slope won gold at the Grand Harvest Awards and the 2003 La Boheme, also from the Wahluke Slope, grabbed gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Last year, the 2003 Merlot won double gold; the 2003 Syrah won gold; the 2005 Chardonnay was best of class at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival; PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM the 2005 Rosé of Syrah earned a Double Platinum in Wine Press Northwest’s 2006 Platinum Judging. The 2003 Cab and 2005 Riesling received “Outstanding” ratings from Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. “My favorite changes with the Malaga, Wash. mood and the season, but I’d say the success of the rosé has surprised me BY ERIC DEGERMAN for sure because we made the wine ew Jersey native Craig just to have fun,” said Mitrakul, 34, a Mitrakul has found a garden grad of Rutgers and Cornell. spot in the Wenatchee Valley, It all starts with the fruit, and for the and it’s been a match made in heavMracheks, St. Laurent is the combinaen for the Mracheks — owners of tion of passion, business and family. St. Laurent Winery. “We’re orchard people, but we And both parties owe consulting saw the vineyard business growing,” winemaker Charlie Hoppes for the Mrachek said. “I started looking successful pairing. around the Wahluke Slope, where “Charlie was making the wines for our orchards are, in 1994. I found a both St. Laurent and Ryan Patrick, couple of blocks in ’98 and planted and he was getting so busy with the our first vineyard in ’99. We started other wineries he was consulting harvesting in 2000 and 2001, selling for,” Mitrakul said. “He told me, ‘I most to Columbia Crest and don’t have time to go to Wenatchee Chateau Ste. Michelle. Their wineanymore, and I’m recommending makers were telling us, ‘These are you.’ Thanks to him, I’m here.” pretty darn good grapes.’ ” A long list of folks owe Hoppes for When it came to naming their new

St. Laurent Winery, 4147 Hamlin Rd., Malaga, Wash., 509-888-WINE, www.saintlaurent.net.

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Winemaker Craig Mitrakul, front, and owners Mike Mrachek and Laura Laurent Mrachek

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winery, that was divine intervention as well as his wife’s maiden name. Her French father was a Cab lover. “I was sitting in the office and searching the ’Net and typed in St. Laurent,” Mike said. “It turned out he’s the patron saint of winemaking and grape growing. I said, ‘Hey, Laurie, you need to look at this!’ ” It didn’t take long for the Mracheks to get serious about the wine business. They retained Hoppes, developed a picturesque winery and garden overlooking the Columbia River, brought in proactive staff, staged concerts and created a store in downtown Wenatchee called Vin Boutique. Their estate holdings total 240 acres, half in Cab, the other 120 divided between Merlot and Syrah. Production went from 3,000 cases in 2005 to 5,000 in 2006. “We want to be up to 15,000 cases by 2010,” Mrachek said. Mitrakul is used to big operations. He was a harvest worker at Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1997 when he met Hoppes, Mike Janiuk, Kendall Mix and Holly Turner. Mitrakul went to Rosemount in Australia. By 2002, he was assistant winemaker in Oregon at Ponzi Vineyards when he and wife, Danielle, got a call from Hoppes, who was leaving Three Rivers. “He said Holly is taking over and she’s going to want an assistant,” Mitrakul said. A couple of years later, Hoppes called him again. “I started here in May 2004, so Charlie started the 2003s,” Mitrakul said. “He left me great material to work with. It was easy.” The Mracheks also allow Mitrakul to make the wines at nearby Ryan Patrick — just as Hoppes did. So does he at least buy Hoppes an occasional lunch? “I should, but he’s so busy I hardly ever see him,” Mitrakul said. “That’s good for me because I’d be broke, I owe him so much.”

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The man behind that winery was Don Flerchinger. When he decided to retire in 2003 after 18 years, Flerchinger sold the operation to Robb Bell. Bell had plans: He changed the name to Cathedral Ridge Winery, and he wanted to put an increased focus on reds. Yet Bell needed to walk a fine line because he respected what Flerchinger had built, and he didn’t want to alienate his customer base. Looking back, Bell realizes it might have been simpler to start a new winery from scratch, but he came through a difficult period with a strong following and several superb wines. “It was difficult,” Bell said. Owner Robb “But Don still lives next door, Bell and Rusty and he has been a significant asset and a good friend.” PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM As an homage to the winery’s roots, Bell still uses the Flerchinger label on one wine, an off-dry white called Halbtrocken. When Bell took over, he knew he needed help with the winemaking, so he called upon Michael Sebastiani in Sonoma, Calif., whose family has been making wine in Northern California for more than a century. Hood River, Ore. Sebastiani, who travels to the Columbia Gorge monthly to taste BY ANDY PERDUE through barrels and work on blends, has had an almost immediate impact on the wines. The most ur Oregon Winery of the stark evidence came last year, when Year has been around for the 2004 Syrah earned an years. Yet, for most wine “Oustanding” rating and was No. 6 lovers — and its owner — it might out of 129 Syrahs judged by Wine as well be brand new. Press Northwest. Proving this was Years ago, Wine Press Northwest no fluke, that same Syrah earned a held a judging of about 50 unanimous Double Platinum in our Northwest Rieslings. The one that seventh annual year-end Platinum rose to the top — Flerchinger Judging and was the No. 5 wine Vineyards in Hood River, Ore. — was overall out of 247 gold medal wincompletely unexpected. The next ners judged. year, we judged about 75 Northwest Bell is quick to heap praise on the Pinot Gris, and the still-obscure grapes and those who grow them. Flerchinger came out No. 1 again. “We’re pinching ourselves here

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because we have everything from Zin to Gewürztraminer. In a 35- to 40mile zone, we have all of these varieties growing,” he said. “You have to be lazy to make bad wines here.” Bell works closely with Lonnie Wright, owner of The Pines Vineyard in The Dalles, Ore., which is famous for its century-old Zinfandel vines. “We’re fortunate to work with some great guys who have vast knowledge” of viticulture in the Gorge, Bell said. “There are mature 25- to 30-acre patches in amazing microclimates.” Bell also believes alcohols are too high in many wines, so he’s doing his best to keep them under control by picking the grapes ever-so-slightly less ripe. Cathedral Ridge’s focus on the red side is in Bordeaux and Rhône varieties, with a bit of Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Bell plans to stay the course, though he is interested in looking at some classic Italian varieties, including Nebbiolo. On the white side, the workhorses continue to be the Alsatian-style whites that gained Flerchinger its fame, including Riesling and Pinot Gris. He also has a couple of Chardonnays and an off-dry rosé. As Bell gazes up and down the Gorge — with forests to the west and desert to the east — he is amazed at the explosion of wineries. Within a 30-minute drive of Hood River, there are at least 22 wineries, and business is picking up. He’s open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, and on many summer days, about 250 customers will walk through his door, thanks to the plethora of wineries, good restaurants, natural beauty and absence of traffic in the Gorge. “People are starting to figure out that they can get here from downtown Portland faster than they can get to McMinnville,” Bell said. ı Cathedral Ridge Winery, 4200 Post Canyon Drive, Hood River, Ore. 541-386-2882, www.cathedralridgewinery.com.

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Janeway said. “If we play the power game, we’re going to lose to Washington and California, to say nothing of halfway around the world.” Janeway came to winemaking relatively recently. In the mid-1990s, he was living in Minnesota and got interested in making wine. “I realized very quickly that was not the place to make the best wine in the world,” he said. “I did a little research and stumbled upon the Rogue Valley as a region that had some interesting opportunities for me.” He moved to Oregon in 1997 and began working at a vineyard in the Applegate Valley. The next year, he Gus Janeway started work at Quail Run PHOTO BY ERIC DEGERMAN Vineyards, owned by Don and Traute Moore and made famous by Willamette Valley Vineyards and its Griffin Creek label. “By the end of the ’99 vintage, it was hard to let the grapes go to the winery and not follow them.” Medford, Ore. So he did just that, working with winemaker Joe Dobbes at the end of harvest. The next year, he began BY ANDY PERDUE working with Don Paschal, who us Janeway probably can’t launched Paschal Winery & Vineyard think of a better way to in nearby Talent, Ore. spend a day than riding his By 2002, Janeway mapped out his bike between the three vineyards he vision for Velocity and was ready to contracts for Velocity Cellars. go. He secured long-term acreage And that makes perfect sense contracts with three vineyards he because our 2007 Oregon Winery to liked: Carpenter Hill Vineyard, Gold Watch is on a roll. Vineyard and Pleasant Hill Vineyard. Velocity produces exactly two Janeway came to RoxyAnn Winery wines: Velocity Cellars, which is in Medford that year to make Janeway’s top blend; and Velo, Velocity alongside Sarah Powell, a which in the European tradition longtime winemaker throughout the would be considered “declassified” Northwest who was a part-owner at — barrels that don’t make the highRoxyAnn. In 2003, Powell fell ill with er-end blend. cancer, so Janeway was asked to step “The focus for Velocity is what the in and help during crush with Rogue Valley should be: elegance RoxyAnn and its custom-crush and character, rather than power,” clients. Powell passed away in

February 2004 at the age of 41. Today, Janeway oversees 12,000 cases of winemaking for Velocity, RoxyAnn and five custom-crush clients. Of that, just 1,000 cases are for Velocity. The blend includes Bordeaux and Rhône varieties, and Janeway is especially smitten with Malbec. In fact, with the 2005 vintage, Malbec makes up more than 50 percent of the blend. Janeway is ferocious in the cellar when selecting which barrels will make it into Velocity. In 2002, he made 600 cases of Velocity and 400 cases of Velo. In 2003, he ended up with 400 cases each of Velocity and Velo. In 2004, he made just 270 cases of Velocity. He will look closely at the wine from the fermenters right up to bottling time, winnowing down the barrels until he has exactly what he wants. “I’ll select the best wine I can make,” he said. “That may end up being one barrel — now that wouldn’t be very profitable for me — but I’ve usually been able to put together a blend of eight or 10 or 15 barrels.” Janeway ages his wines for 16 to 18 months in 30 percent new French oak, then another year in the bottle before it’s released. Velocity is bottled traditionally, while Velo is put under screwcap. The wines are distributed in Oregon by RoxyAnn and sold in the winery tasting room. In 2005, Velocity and Velo raised eyebrows at the World of Wine Festival by winning gold medals and best-of-class awards in a competition of Southern Oregon wines. In this issue of Wine Press Northwest, both wines earned “Excellent” ratings in our judging of Northwest red blends. “The singular goal of Velocity is to produce a wine — regardless of variety — that to me represents the height of what the Rogue Valley is capable of.” ı

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VELOCITY CELLARS

Velocity Cellars (at RoxyAnn Winery), 3285 Hillcrest Road, Medford, Ore., 541-482-9336, www.velocitycellars.com.

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Hagen, left, and Roland Kruger PHOTO BY J. KEVIN DUNN/JKEVINDUNN.COM

WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS Okanagan Falls, B.C. BY ANDY PERDUE

f you ran across world-class Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and Pinot Gris from a winemaking family with names such as Fritz, Hagen and Roland, you might just think they come from a long line of Old World vintners. If the winery is Wild Goose Vineyards, our 2007 B.C. Winery of the Year, you’d be wrong. “A lot of people look at our ancestry,” said Roland Kruger, son of founder Adolph “Fritz” Kruger. “But we never had any family history of winemaking in Europe. Dad lived in a wine region, but we never really had any winemaking skills or ideas. Some people say our wines are Germanic in nature, but we make our wines in a British Columbia style. If it tastes like a Rhine, so be 40

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it,” he added with a chuckle. Whether they taste more like northern Europe or southern British Columbia might be up for debate. What there is no denying is the quality of Wild Goose wines. In fact, 2006 was a banner year for this winery that started in 1989 near the town of Okanagan Falls. In Wine Press Northwest’s 2006 Summer issue, Wild Goose’s Pinot Gris earned an “Outstanding” rating and was tied for the No. 1 wine out of 77 judged. Top ratings followed for Wild Goose’s vineyard-designated Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Then, in our yearend best-of-the-best Platinum Judging, Wild Goose scored Platinums for its standard Riesling and Autumn Gold, a blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc. “Father taught me how to make wine,” said Hagen Kruger, who took over winemaking duties in 1998. His style is simple: Spend a lot of time in the vineyard making sure the grapes are just right, then preserve as much of the fruit flavors as you can in the cellar. “We try to make a consistent product every year.” From the beginning, the Krugers have tried to make the B.C. wine industry better. When Fritz planted

his vines in the early 1980s, he sold the grapes to Mission Hill, the Kelowna-area wine giant. In the late ’80s, Fritz and a couple of other growers approached the government about creating a new class of smaller producers, called farm gate wineries. This was after the freetrade agreement was approved and many of the old non-European grapes had been yanked out. When the government OK’d the idea of smaller wineries, Wild Goose was launched. Fritz went on to serve as one of the directors of the B.C. Wine Institute for several years. When Wild Goose started, there were perhaps 20 wineries in the province. Today, there are 140. “I never anticipated the industry growth,” Roland said. “You just have to take a deep breath sometimes and see we have something pretty good going here.” Roland has followed in his father’s footsteps, working alongside Hagen in the four estate vineyards as well as in the cellar. He’s also served in leadership roles for the B.C. Wine Institute and the Okanagan Wine Festival Society. “We love doing things that involve promoting the B.C. wine industry and the Pacific Northwest,” he said. “We’re team players.” At Wild Goose, Riesling is the backbone of the winery’s 10,000 cases. Hagen crafts three different bottlings, including two vineyard-designated wines. In the past eight years, Pinot Gris has grown in importance at Wild Goose and in the valley. Like many B.C. whites, Wild Goose’s wines have a natural advantage because of bright natural acidity and fresh fruit aromas and flavors. “If you start with good fruit and get clean fermentations, the wines can be great,” Roland said. “If you’re able to achieve that, the fruit really speaks for itself.” ı Wild Goose Vineyards, 2145 Sun Valley Way, Okanagan Falls, B.C., 250-4978919, www.wildgoosewinery.com.

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the Okanagan in 2003, where they opened the Joie Farm Cooking School. The popular school and Outdoor Orchard Dinners are on hiatus as the couple build a winery facility and plant a vineyard. The launched Joie (French for “joy” and pronounced “zhwa”) in 2004 with 870 cases. They rented space in nearby Poplar Grove Winery, then at Pentage Winery south of Penticton. Their quick expansion to 5,000 cases led them to build their own facility. Their vineyard will include Gewürztraminer and a rare variety called Muscat Giallo, or Yellow Muscat. Their five current releases are not what one might Heidi Noble and expect from a young couple Michael Dinn trying to make their way in PHOTO BY J. KEVIN DUNN/JKEVINDUNN.COM the wine business, primarily because of the absence of reds. The lineup includes a Chardonnay, a rosé, a Riesling, a Muscat and a blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Naramata, B.C. Kerner, Ehrenfelser and Riesling. A blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, however, will be added soon. BY ANDY PERDUE Noble has a particular passion for t shouldn’t take too long to figrosé, a wine she thinks still isn’t taken ure out two things about Heidi seriously enough in the New World. Noble: She has a deep passion “Wine is a food product,” she said. for food and wine, and she was a “It’s part of the meal. It’s why we philosophy major in college. make a rosé. In France, that’s thought “Our wines are food-driven, and of as part of a mid-day meal.” food is wine-oriented,” said the coBecause of this passion for food owner of Joie Wines, our 2007 B.C. and wine and their background in Winery to Watch. “Harmony between restaurants, Noble and Dinn have wine and food is what is important.” encountered unprecedented success Noble, 33, and her husband, with their first two releases. Michael Dinn, 40, found their way to About 95 percent of their wines the Okanagan Valley’s Naramata are allocated for restaurants, with the Bench along a different path than rest going to wine lovers. The 2004 most. wines sold out in two weeks, and the They were in the wine and restau2005 vintage was gone in four weeks. rant trade in the Lower Mainland, with “We’ve been overwhelmingly well Michael the sommelier at Cin Cin and accepted and haven’t had any trouble C, two of Vancouver’s top restaurants. selling wines,” a situation her banker They moved to their five-acre farm in appreciates, she added with a laugh.

This spring, Noble’s first book will be published. Called Menus from an Orchard Table, it is a collection of essays and recipes inspired by Joie’s Farm Cooking School and Outdoor Orchard Dinners. Here, again, Noble was able to put all of her skills to use: winemaking, restaurant management and philosophy. The book includes seven essays that explore the notion that the explosion of British Columbia wine is bringing about the maturity of a new style of cuisine. “There is such bounty in the Okanagan,” she said. “It’s the fruit bowl of Western Canada. It’s kind of shocking that there’s so little food culture that accompanies that. The most obvious sign of that is when you come to visit, the focus is on the wines and the natural beauty rather than a wine country that is based on touring, local restaurants and an intimate experience.” That, she believes, is quickly changing as the region matures and attracts visitors who are, well, hungry for great cuisine. “Change is happening at a rapid pace. All eyes are on the Okanagan.” Menus from an Orchard Table includes photography by Chris Mason Stearns, a Vancouver-based journalist. The book will include local and international wine pairings, as Noble thought it was important to also provide a global perspective on wines. The Pacific Northwest has Asianinspired cuisine, Noble said, primarily with seafood. Thus, aromatic white wines such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer have an affinity with such dishes — and that was a major part of Noble and Dinn’s decision to focus on white wines. “Who wants to drink big reds with a bowl of clams or a plate of prawns?” she asked. “That’s where our personal tastes meet our business sense.” And that’s where philosophy meets the vineyard. ı

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JOIE WINES

Joie Wines, 2825 Naramata Road, Naramata, B.C., 250-496-0093, www.joie.ca.

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of Pullman, Wash., Clarkston and Lewiston,” Scott continued. “No one is going to come for five wineries, but if we had 10 wineries like they do in Spokane, we could be a wine destination.” Scott’s intriguing line of wines is worthy of visitors. He annually wins awards at the Los Angeles County Fair for his dessert wines and meads, and his reds — particularly from Paul Champoux’s famed vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills — routinely receive praise from Wine Press Northwest, typically in our Best Buy! section. Remarkably, he doesn’t sell a bottle in his production of 2,000 cases for more Stu Scott than $20. But it helps explain why Camas Prairie PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM Winery is our 2007 Idaho Winery of the Year. “My pricing is what will the market bear for wine,” Scott said. “With Paul’s fruit, I make enough money because I sell 70 percent of the wine here at the winery. If you sell 70 percent of it wholesale, you have to sell it at a higher rate because of the Moscow, Idaho three-tier distribution system. I can afford to take a longer-term view.” BY ERIC DEGERMAN His 2004 Champoux Merlot sells tu Scott is not one to waste for $14 and received an steps, mince words or treat his “Outstanding” in 2006. Virtually any winery as a hobby. other winery would charge at least In fact, he and wife Susan live double for a Champoux bottle. above their downtown business. The Late Harvest Orange Muscat, Operating a winery within a few off Judy Champoux’s Ladyhawk plot, blocks of a land-grant college since also earned an “Outstanding” in 1983 and blazing the wine trail in 2006. Scott also makes a delicious North Idaho hasn’t been as smooth sparkling red Lemberger from as the structure of his wines. Champoux labeled “Fred” short for “It’s been very difficult,” Scott said. “fizzy red.” “Nobody comes to Moscow, Idaho, for “I’ve been buying grapes from the wine. They arrive and it’s a pleasPaul for probably 16 years, and we ant surprise, but we’re trying to develhave a tremendous relationship with op the wine industry in this area. Paul and Judy,” Scott said. “I always “Since 2004, there have been four show up on time. I place my orders small wineries start up in the region months in advance. My checks never

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bounce. And I win awards with his grapes.” For years, Scott taught business classes at the University of Idaho. “It was cheap advertising,” he quipped. Now, he offers wine education classes at his winery — which features a wine bar — the first Tuesday night of each month. He’s also been through the school of hard knocks. Originally, his winery was called Camas until success in one wine competition attracted the attention of Caymus Vineyards, an established winery in Napa Valley. “Their Chicago attorneys said we were violating ‘the bar call,’ which is the spoken name,” Scott said. “If a bartender were pouring my Camas, it could be mistaken for something similar. I was told it would cost me $60,000 to $80,000 in legal fees to win, if I could.” They reached an agreement. Camas became Camas Prairie, so other wineries beware. After all, Scott has been in difficult situations. “I was with the Department of Justice as a federal parole agent and in the Army as a personal security officer,” Scott said. “I’ve helped protect President Ford and President Reagan. I’ve also been with Dick Cheney when he was Secretary of Defense and Donald Rumsfeld.” Scott displays amazing ingenuity with efficient workarounds at his confined facility, which is on the ground floor of a building dating back to 1891. He moved in 1989, and he couldn’t have survived it without his wife. “When I was called back into the service in 1994 for the first Gulf War, Sue took over the business,” Scott said. “We didn’t make wine that year. The same thing happened after I got called back in 9/11. “But now I’m out of the Army. I’m out of the Justice Department. I’m out of the college. I’m only a whiner.” ı Camas Prairie Winery, 110 S. Main St., Moscow, Idaho, 800-616-0214, www.camasprairiewinery.com.

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yard at their doorstep,” Rogers said. And our 2007 Idaho Winery to Watch is quite a little gem. His 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon won gold at the 2006 Idaho Wine Competition and received an “excellent” rating by Wine Press Northwest. Kevin Rogers The 2003 Cab with wife produced an Michelle, “Outstanding.” daughter His 2004 Hannah and Chardonnay — Pete and crafted with Popeye light oak — was PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM recommended. And he’s not shy about crediting Washington vintner Robert Smasne, who has consulted at TimberRock since the inaugural 2001 vintage. “I take advantage of people who have a lot more experience than I Post Falls, Idaho do,” Rogers said. “I’m constantly humbled and learn and taste.” BY ERIC DEGERMAN Although the TimberRock wines feature labels with a whimsical ven by Idaho standards, it’s an theme of the porcupines who reside unlikely, albeit picturesque, among his Ponderosa pines, Rogers setting for a winery. is committed to quality. His second But Kevin Rogers lives by his vintage, 2002, became contaminated word, which is chiseled in stone outby used barrels he purchased from side his boutique facility that overanother winery. looks the prairie of Post Falls, Idaho “I made the decision that rather — “TimberRock, an Idaho Mountain than tarnish our early good reputawinery.” tion with a below-average wine that I The 5-year-old winery is open by donated it to the driveway,” Rogers appointment. There are no signs, so said. “It was a rather sad purple you need directions, and perhaps a river, but I think it was the smart guide, to get there. During the winchoice.” ter, carry chains. It’s exactly where The 2003 vintage is sold out, and and how this veterinarian from Rogers reports the 2004 is moving Oklahoma with a wife and infant well. His success in the market daughter wants to live. stems from the vineyards he uses, “I came to realize that a lot of he said. wineries don’t have a sprawling vine“Our red program is 100 percent

TimberRock Winery, 2338 S. Big Rock Rd, Post Falls, Idaho 83854, 208-7779669, www.timberrockwine.com

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TIMBERROCK WINERY

Horse Heaven Hills,” he said. “In fact, the Matador Vineyard, where I had sourced fruit for 2004 has been sold to the Golitzens (of Quilceda Creek Vintners). I had to bow out gracefully. “Luckily, I was able to move 150 yards to the north to Dick Beightol on Phinny Hill, and he had some Petit Verdot, Carmenére and Malbec,” he continued. “So I’ve got my nice Bordeaux varieties right there and my flavor profiles will be quite similar because it’s nearby.” Rogers, 44, plans on crafting an upper-tier Bordeaux blend that will feature a more serious label. TimberRock’s production leads with 600 cases of reds. The 120 cases of Chardonnay come off from Smasne Family Vineyard’s 30-yearold vines in the Yakima Valley. His 90 cases of delicious Chenin Blanc ice wine — which depict porcupines on skis, again the work of Montana artist Alan McNiel — are from Stone Ridge on the Royal Slope. “We’re still very small and focused, and that’s the way we want it,” Rogers said. “I am equally passionate about my work as a veterinarian.” He is assisted at TimberRock by son Weston. There’s also Pete and Popeye, dogs that Rogers rescued and turned into winery hounds. Correspondance classes through U.C. Davis and a vet’s background of chemistry and microbiology have served him well in the winery. In fact, his lab is at the clinic. “I grew up in an agricultural family — ranching and farming in Oklahoma — so I was always intrigued with the idea of wineries and vineyards,” he said. “I wanted to live and work in a mountainous area that I love. Then I struck up a friendship with Charles Smasne during my search for fruit for home winemaking. “I spun out of control from there,” he said with a chuckle. ı

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Mountain Dome Winery

Washington’s premier Award-winning Sparkling Winery 16315 East Temple Road, Spokane (only 30 min. from downtown)

Tours & tasting by appt

509-928-BRUT • www.mountaindome.com

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Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss an issue! Subscribe to Wine Press Northwest today. Four issues are just $10 ($12 in Canada) For convenient home delivery, call 800-538-5619 or go to winepressnw.com

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Explore Southern Oregon’s Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate Valleys

Wine Tasting Great Gift Ideas Open Daily 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.

541-672-6080 885 Melqua Rd., Roseburg, OR 5 minutes from I-5 • Exit 125

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Tasting room open daily 11-5 687 Hubbard Creek Rd, Umpqua, OR 97486 www.henryestate.com • 1-800-782-2686 winery@henryestate.com Memorial Day Open House May 26-28 • 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.

“Most Romantic Inn in Oregon” - Gerry Frank, Portland Oregonian

“One of the 50 best retail shops in America” -GQ Magazine

“Best of Award of Excellence” Wine List - Wine Spectator

The place where two of the last three U.S. Presidents have dined and where Pres. George & Laura Bush stayed.

1-800-321-9344 www.jacksonvilleinn.com • jvinn@mind.net

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Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

“Amavi” is derived from the Latin words “Amor,” “Vita,” and “Vinum” ~ Love, Life, and Wine. Our mission is to capture the best of love and life in every bottle of our wine.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

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We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Enjoy wines made with a charming French accent. Our friendly staff is here to welcome you in our historic renovated blacksmith shop. Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM 33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com â&#x20AC;˘ 509-522-9463

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Tamarack Cellars 700 C St. Walla Walla, WA (at the airport)

Open Sat. 10-4 and by appt

509-526-3533 Releases: • 2005 Merlot • 2005 Firehouse Red • 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon • 2005 Cabernet Franc • 2004 Syrah www.tamarackcellars.com

Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Spring Releases: 2005 Columbia Valley Sangiovese 2005 Walla Walla Valley Merlot 2005 Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Est. 1988 Fri. 1-5, Sat. 11-4, Sun.-Mon. 1-5 Closed Tues. - Thurs.

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

509-526-0676

840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both. Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

509-527-8400 www.fivestarcellars.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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29700 SW Burkhalter Rd., Hillsboro, OR Tasting Room open year-round Mon. - Fri. 11-6 • Sat. & Sun. 11-5 Winter hours begin Oct. 1: Daily 11 - 5

503-648-8198

800-625-5665

www.oakknollwinery.com

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Freja Cellars Artisan Pinot Noir wines from estate grown grapes

New Release 2005 WV Estate Pinot Noir Open for private tours

www.frejacellars.com

503-628-7843

Open 11-5 daily March through December 11975 Smithfield Road • Dallas, OR 800-884-1927 • www.vanduzer.com

The Best Deal in Northwest Wine Country One year for $10 ($15 in Canada)

Call 800-538-5619 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Hyatt Vineyards 2020 Gilbert Rd., Zillah, WA 98953

509829-6333 Fax: 509-829-6433

Open daily 11 a.m.5 p.m. www.hyattvineyards.com

Piety Flats Winery Located in the historic Donald Fruit & Mercantile bldg 2560 Donald-Wapato Rd Wapato, WA (Exit 44 off I-82, go 1/8th mile North to our tasting room at Piety Flats Winery and Mercantile)

Open Daily 10-6 Sundays 10-5 pm

509-877-3115 www.pietyflatswinery.com

Desert Hills Winery Spring Barrel Apr. 27-29 When the fun begins!

Enjoy our award winning wines in our cozy tasting room. 1208 North 1st St. Yakima, WA (Exit 31 off 1-82 Go 1/2 mi., on right)

Tasting Room hours: Mon.-Fri. 10-4 Sat. & Sun. 12-5 or by appt.

www.deserthillswinery.com • 509-453-0503

Wine of the Week Award-Winning Wines Tasting Room open: Daily 10 am - 5 pm 530 Gurley Rd., Granger, WA 98932

1-866-EATON HILL

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Chandler Reach Vineyards 9506 West Chandler Rd Benton City, WA (Exit 93 off 1-82)

Visit our cave and underground Tuscan style tasting room Open: 11-5 Wed.-Sun. & Special Events

509-588-8800 chandlerreach@comcast.com chandlerreach.com

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“Outstanding Northwest Wine List” Wine Press NW ’99 - ’06

“★ ★ ★ NW Best Places” At the historic Shelburne Inn, Seaview, WA (360) 642-4142 • www.shoalwater.com

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Columbia Gorge Winery & Klickitat Canyon No Added Sulfites “Nothing but the Grapes” 6 LyleSnowden Rd Lyle, WA 98635 Tasting Room open March-December Fri.-Sun. 12-6

509-365-2900 Specializing in naturally processed and organic wines from locally grown grapes www.columbiagorgewinery.com

“Outstanding Washington Wine List ’02, ’03, ’04, ’05, ’06” — Wine Press Northwest. Imaginative NW cuisine in a casual and relaxed atmosphere.

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Marshal’s Winery

Maryhill Winery

World-class wines, great selection with small production quality

9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA

Check our new releases! You’re invited to our special

Tasting Room Open daily 10-6

“Swine & Wine” Memorial Day Weekend Tasting Room Open daily: daylight to dark and then some 150 Oak Creek Rd, Dallesport, WA

• Gold medal wines

1/4 mile E of Hwy 197 & Hwy 14 interchange

• Huge Gift Shop selection

509-767-4633 Fax: 509-767-2194

Excellent case discounts • Shipping available www.marshalswinery.com • marshalswinery@gorge.net

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

www.maryhillwinery.com

1-877MARYHILL

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Our blind tasting of Northwest red blends yields some delicious finds

STANDING OUT WHILE BLENDING IN S T O RY B Y E R I C D E G E R M A N PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

lending can represent an almost endless source of nerveracking and head-scratching debate that winemakers face. It only ceases when the bottling begins. Perhaps this is why vintners refer to their evaluation of barrel samples mixed with similar — or different — grape varieties as “blending trials.” And while that part of the winemaking process can be stressful, it’s also liberating. “My first years as a winemaker, I was so enamored with my fruit that I did 100 percent Syrah with my own fruit from one block,” said Lynne Chamberlain, who uses grapes from her estate Spofford Station Vineyard at her winery — James Leigh Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash. “Now that I’m playing with blends, it’s so much more fun.” It’s also financially practical. “You can utilize more, which is a lot of why blending is done,” Chamberlain said. Sometimes, it comes down to just wanting to break with tradition. “There are so many young new winemakers in Washington and you can experiment,” Chamberlain said. “It’s also a sign of creativity and new philosophies.” Then again, the decision to blend is a matter of taste. “The reason we blend is to make a

better wine,” said Sherrill Miller, winemaker/co-owner of E.B. Foote Winery in Burien, Wash. “There’s no point to it if what you put together is not better than what you started with. Sometimes we blend, and sometimes we don’t, but we’ve had so much success with our blends that we’ve started to make the blends first, then see how much Cab and Merlot we have left.” Ultimately, the customer must be satisfied. “Blends are the hot thing right now,” said Miller, whose industrial park operation has a total production of 2,200 cases. “People have come into the winery and say, ‘I want blends. I love blends,’ without knowing what the blends are. Then, I also have people who say, ‘I really like Merlot,’ so it’s important for us to have both blends and Merlots.” How did we get to the point where single-variety bottlings became so commonplace? After all, many of the world’s most famous and coveted wines are blends. “We have a tendency in the U.S. to group wines together the way that the French started planting them 1,000 years ago, so winemakers have followed where the traditional varieties have been planted,” said Coke Roth, a winery owner, consultant and international wine judge in Richland, Wash. “There’s no logical sense to that,” Roth continued. “Syrah could have grown just as well in Bordeaux more than 400 years ago, but they’ve had people dictating, ‘You cannot do it that way!’ and that is that.” It’s not nearly as traditional outside of France, which partly explains the growing numbers of French winemakers in the Pacific Northwest. “In Australia and in Italy, you will see that Syrah, Merlot and Cab are planted right next to Sangiovese,” Roth said. In fact, the Antinori family’s innovation to blend French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese produced new “Super

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W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy A wine that is $15 ($17 Canadian) and under. Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. Corkfree: Uses an alternative closure such as a screwcap.

Tuscan” blends. Ironically, they are some of Tuscany’s most expensive wines but remain categorized by the Italian government the same as pedestrian table wines. If you drop below 75 percent of one variety in the United States, you enter the “blend” category. Then, success in the marketplace may come down to not only what’s in the bottle but also what the wine is called. That’s why wineries fiercely protect a catchy proprietary name. E.B. Foote created — and trademarked — its Bordeaux blend Perfect à Trois in part as a tribute to Miller’s French heritage. “We didn’t want to call it ‘Meritage’ because we didn’t want to have to pay for the name,” she said. A wine can only be labeled Meritage — rhymes with heritage — if: 1) It is blended from Bordeaux varieties. 2) It is one of the two most expensive wines produced by that winery. 3) The winery is a paid member of the Meritage Association. Regardless of how they are labeled, many Northwest blends warrant respect from consumers. Perhaps the strongest observation from our judging of 141 Northwest

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blends was the high quality across the board. Only four entries were not recommended, while the percentage of silvers was high at 49 percent. And the top finisher also qualifies as a “Best Buy!” because the 2004 Workingman’s Red from Kana Winery in downtown Yakima, Wash., sells at a bargain of $15. Four of the 18 “Outstanding” wines have a retail price of less than $20. There were two multiple winners: Saviah Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash., and Miller’s E.B. Foote. A handful of wineries in the emerging Columbia Cascade region in North Central Washington produced top wines: Berghof Keller (Leavenworth), Lost River (Winthrop) and Martin-Scott (East Wenatchee). The vast Columbia Valley appellation dominated the judging. In fact, there was only one “Outstanding” blend to use fruit from outside Washington or the Columbia Valley: Abacela’s 2004 Claret, which relied on Southern Oregon grapes. And while the Willamette Valley is best known for its Pinot Noir producers, one winery earned Outstanding: David O’Reilly’s Owen Roe in Newberg, Ore., though the grapes were from the Yakima Valley. Another factor was the killing freeze of 2004 that devastated 80 percent of Walla Walla Valley vineyards. It explains why that nowfamous American Viticultural Area produced just one Outstanding. However, Walla Walla wineries produced six of the top wines. One of those Walla Walla wines — the Saviah Cellars 2004 Une Vallée from the Columbia Valley — received a Platinum in 2006. With this Outstanding, that same wine by Richard Funk is eligible to enter our 2007 Platinum competition. Another intriguing aspect to our red blends judging was the influence of Syrah. Two Outstandings emerged from the delicious but brief flight of five Rhône-style cuvées on Day 1, which otherwise was limited to 62

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Bordeaux-style blends. Day 2 brought the red table wines, and one entry blended 13 grape varieties. Four of the red table wines to earn Outstanding incorporated Syrah, prompting judges to remark how the Rhône grape built flesh to the midpalate and created “wonderfully drinkable wines” across the flights. Such is the case with Miller’s nonvintage Rainy Day Red III. “With Syrah, you get the nice spice, peppery kind of flavor,” she said. “Syrah was going to be the next hot red and replace Merlot, but it’s almost an acquired taste. It’s not necessarily like Cab or Merlot with the berry thing going on. Syrah has that spice. The Cab tones down the spice and fills in the depth.” Our red blends panel of judges included Chamberlain; Roth; Bob Woehler, tasting editor for Wine Press Northwest who has been writing about Northwest wines since 1976; and Eric Degerman, managing editor of Wine Press Northwest. ı

OUTSTANDING Best Buy!

Kana Winery $15 2004 Workingman’s Red, Columbia Valley This is the first time Mark Wysling and the Yakima, Wash., winery went for this style of blend, and he nailed it. Leading off is Zinfandel (43%) from Milbrandt Vineyard. Close behind is Malbec (40%) off Snipes Mountain, and it finishes with Petit Verdot (17%) from famed Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain. The lively floral nose shows off the Zin with strawberry candy, and there’s an orange note amid the loganberries and raspberries. Sweet cherries and raspberries greet you on the entry, then it’s a steel girder of blueberry tea tannin structure from the Malbec. Slightly unripe blackberries provide great acidity and get tucked neatly inside a strawberry jam finish. — 286 cases Abacela Winery $35 2004 Claret, Southern Oregon Earl Jones’ winemaker, B. Kiley Evans, produced the lone Outstanding wine from Oregon grapes in this judging, and it’s only their second vintage with this Bordeaux style. Abacela’s estate Fault Line Vineyard aligned with Rogue Valley sites at Pheasant Hill and Alta Seca for a blend of Cab (60%), Merlot (35%), Cab Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot. The results are plum, black currant, black cherry, tobacco and crushed

herb aromas. Rich blackberries, cherries and plums splash alongside a midpalate of minerality that gives way to a long glide of chocolate and cherries. — 243 cases Baer Winery $34 2003 Arctos, Columbia Valley Scientists refer to brown bears as ursus arctos, so you can see how this Woodinville winery arrived at the proprietary name for a blend of Cab (72%), Merlot (10%), Cab Franc (8%), Petit Verdot (7%) and Malbec — all from Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Frenchman Hills north of the Wahluke Slope. Raspberry jam, quince paste, maraschino cherries and pie cherries rush your senses. A clean sweetness from blackberries resides in the midpalate with light citrus, new leather and green peppercorn notes in the finish. “This is youthful fun stuff that should age nicely,” said one judge. Try with a hearty stew in a bread bowl or alongside broiled meats. — 217 cases Berghof Keller $18 2003 Red Baron, Washington A new German-styled winery in Bavarian-themed Leavenworth, Wash., will generate attention with this blend of Cab (75%), Merlot (22%) and Lemberger (3%). Beautiful oak waves you in to find black cherries, blackberries and soft

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perfume. There’s more oak on the palate, but more black cherries and acidity stretches out the tannins into a supple fashion. — 114 cases E.B. Foote Winery $19 NV Rainy Day Red III, Columbia Valley It’s no coincidence one of the highest-scoring wines in the table-wine portion of the judging also features more Syrah (87%) than any other. Sherrill Miller’s combination of Graves and Milbrandt fruit from 2005 is big and flavorful, loaded with white pepper, cherries and chocolate. The inclusion of 2004 Graves Cab (13%) provides a sweet underlying stream of cherry syrup and black currants that carries through to the big finish. — 188 cases Lost River Winery $26 2004 Cedarosa, Columbia Valley A blending of the words “cedar” and “ponderosa” — a tribute to the trees in Bordeaux and the Methow Valley, respectively — inspired John Morgan to create this St. Emillon assemblage of Merlot (55%) and Cab Franc (45%). Fruit from Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, Bill Den Hoed’s Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and the Den Hoed Grandview Block in the Yakima Valley unleashes a bouquet of black currants, blackberries, strawberries, smoky oak and a bay rum note with

crushed leaf. You taste what you breathe in, only with delicious acidity and balanced tannins. “A beautifully integrated wine,” remarked one judge, predicting it will gracefully get better in the next few years. — 97 cases

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on the label. It’s primarily Alder Ridge fruit — Sangiovese (35%), Cab (35%) and Barbera (14%) — with Syrah (16%) from the Wahluke Slope and Yakima Valley. Lavender, toffee, white pepper and strawberry jam aromas prepare you for an easy entry of purple fruit with good acidity, muscular tannins and a supple cordial cherry finish. — 633 cases

Owen Roe $42 2004 Red Wine, Yakima Valley At this Irishinfluenced winery in the heart of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, David O’Reilly knows his way around Washington’s Yakima Valley, too. Merlot (49%) and Cab Franc (22%) off DuBrul, Rosa Mystica and Slide Mountain merged with Elerding Cab for a dense, muscular and bold offering that is his top wine. Beautiful oak notes add depth to aromas of black and Bing cherries, earth and cedar. A sweet berry entry flows into cherries with vanilla, followed to the finish by rich fudge and nuts. — 783 cases

Martin-Scott Winery $19 2004 Raven Ridge Red, Columbia Valley East Wenatchee is where Mike Scott’s winery is, but the Wahluke Slope is the home for the Cab (59%) and Syrah (41%). A perfume of red fruit, cigar leaf, bacon and toffee cake guides into a lip-smacking entry of strawberry candy with cherries, moist earth in the midpalate and a structure so balanced that the plums on the back end flow as slowly as a glacier. — 125 cases

Saggi $45 2004 Red Wine, Columbia Valley Italian legends Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari have joined Allen Shoup’s all-star winemaking lineup at Long Shadows Vintners, and this is a stunning Super Tuscan-style start, thanks in no small part to resident Walla Walla vintner Gilles Nicault. The blend, pronounced “sahjee,” is Italian for “wisdom” and depicts an owl

McCrea Cellars $35 2004 Sirocco, Washington It’s no surprise that Washington’s original Rhône Ranger — Doug McCrea — shows up so high in this competition. Prime vineyards such as Sheridan and Elerding (Yakima Valley), Ciel du Cheval (Red Mountain) and Destiny Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills) produce aromatics of red cherries, strawberry candy, plums and

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pleasing tar. Rich plums are on the entry and the influence of Grenache (40%), the lead in this blend of Mourvédre (30%), Syrah (25%) and Counoise (5%), perks up the midpalate with delicious mouth-coating cherries. Late acidity pushes the tannins in the background of strawberry/rhubarb jam. — 481 cases Saviah Cellars $30 2004 Une Vallée, Columbia Valley Richard Funk’s seamless blend of Cab (60%) from Kiona and Lewis vineyards, Merlot (30%) off Candy Mountain and Cab Franc (10%) via Stillwater Creek produces stunning results, starting in the glass with a vibrant garnet color. There’s plenty behind that with raspberry and currant aromas, cigar leaf, cocoa and leather. A smooth structure releases more of the same, accompanied by sweet tannins, delightful acidity and notes of licorice and bittersweet chocolate in the finish. — 229 cases

Cork-free!

Syncline Cellars $18 2005 Subduction Red, Columbia Valley James and Poppie Mantone live in Lyle, Wash., but their hearts seem to be in the Southern Rhône. This blend of Syrah (45%), Grenache (41%), Mourvédre (12%) and Cinsault (2%) is

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co-fermented in three different ways. One judge remarked, “The smoothness of the Syrah and the dark cherry/perfumy aromas from the Grenache really show.” Blackberries, huckleberries and cherries melt into a rich midpalate of chocolate truffle with some graphite and minerality in the finish. Suggested foods include roasted vegetables, wild game, sausages or artisan cheeses. — 700 cases Waterbrook Winery $45 WB Primarius Meritage, Columbia Valley For John Freeman’s inaugural reserve release for Waterbrook, the sources are Jones, Stillwater Creek, Elephant Mountain and Red Mountain vineyards. There’s a fair amount of power based on the composition — Cab Sauv (40%), Malbec (20%), Petit Verdot (20%), then Merlot (13%) and Cab Franc. Boysenberries, mint, crushed leaf, tobacco and chocolate aromatics are chased down by a nice rounded pie cherry filling entry. Indeed, this has the body of an NFL wide receiver as blackberries and blueberries on the midpalate go over the middle with good acidity and sinewy tannins. And yet, there’s a creamy vanilla quality in the finish. This wine is available only at the tasting room, requiring a trip to Walla Walla. — 356 cases

Saviah Cellars $35 2004 Big Sky Cuvée, Columbia Valley After noting the sources — Stillwater Creek and Champoux — and Richard Funk’s track record, it’s no surprise the mix of Merlot (57%), Cab (29%) and Cab Franc shows well for the Montana State University alum. There’s an inviting youthful garnet color in the glass that beckons your nose to explore its enticing pie cherries, dusty plums, rose petal and oak aromatics. On the palate, it’s as smooth as a berry milkshake, backed by a beautiful structure of cherries and currants with acidity to match. Tannins emerge slowly and never dominate. — 318 cases E.B. Foote Winery $25 2004 Perfect à Trois, Columbia Valley In 1991, Sherrill Miller and her husband took over for Eugene Foote. Next year, their oftenoverlooked winery in Burien, Wash., will turn 30. A perfect way to toast the celebration would be to pop the cork on this blend of Cab (70%), Merlot (15%) and Cab Franc, most from Milbrandt Vineyards. Inviting oak produces aromas of an Oreo cookie, and it doesn’t get pushed aside by blackberries or a bouquet of mixed flowers. An underpinning of dark fruit flavors feature sweet blackberries and plums amid acidity and black tea tannins that build while staying balanced. — 248 cases

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red blends Tamarack Cellars $20 2005 Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley Many restaurants are savvy enough to annually offer Ron Coleman’s money-making blend by the glass. This edition keeps the good times pouring with Cab (31%), Syrah (30%), Merlot (24%), Cab Franc (11%), Sangiovese (2%), Carmenére (1%) and Malbec (1%). First, there’s well-managed oak, blueberry, a hint of mint and fresh cherry pipe tobacco. The influence of Syrah is evident, too, on the tongue in a berry milkshake. Impressive tannins merely escort the cherries and chocolate to the finish. — 7,308 cases

EXCELLENT Hestia Cellars $20 2004 Red, Columbia Valley Shannon Jones’ new boutique winery in Carnation, Wash., could label this as Sangiovese (80%), and it will set your hair on fire. The influence of Merlot (20%) shows with a nose of cherries jubilee and leaf tobacco, but the Italian variety’s hallmark abundance of acidity really shines on the palate amid the long and luscious stream of black cherries. — 100 cases

O•S Winery $35 2004 BSH, Columbia Valley Bill Owen and Rob Sullivan celebrate the winery’s 10th anniversary this year, and this might be their best effort ever. The abbreviation stands for Brick S--- House, and she’s a bombshell of a Bordeaux blend with Cab (68%), Cab Franc (12%), Merlot (10%) and Petit Verdot. What you smell is what you get with in-your-face boysenberries, currants, raspberries, blood orange and oregano. Berrylike acidity leads into chocolate and vanilla extract on the back end with citrus in the finish. — 525 cases Spring Valley Vineyard $50 2004 Frederick, Walla Walla Valley Estate vineyards set among the rolling wheat fields of this century-old farmstead north of Walla Walla escaped the killing freeze and allowed Serge Laville to craft a massive Bordeaux from Cab (59%), Merlot (24%), Cab Franc (12%) and Petit Verdot. Beautiful cherries poke out amid the clove, chocolate, maple and vanilla notes from 20 months in oak. Deep black cherries, plums and black currants are bathed in nice acidity, while the tannins are steeped in the background. It’s all so rich that the lofty alcohol (15.5%) can be overlooked in this memorial to family patriarch Frederick Corkrum. — 987 cases

Sokol Blosser Winery $18 NV Meditrina III, American Unique yet yummy, it’s a tribute to the Roman goddess of wine featuring Pinot Noir (48%), with Syrah (39%) and Zinfandel (13%) — out of the Willamette and Columbia valleys and California’s Lodi — from one of Oregon’s most respected families. Try this in a black glass at a party because it’s an Aroma Wheel of intriguing descriptors with chalkboard dust, sagebrush, orange zest, blueberies, blackberries, peppermint, cherry candy and fresh grass clippings. Dark fruit returns in liquid form with pie cherry acidity and sage in the midpalate, and a nice finish of chocolate. Suggested pairings include pulled pork sandwiches or grilled chicken with rosemary mashed potatoes. — 10,000 cases Chateau Ste. Michelle $30 2004 Orphelin, Columbia Valley Bob Bertheau must have had some fun with this because it’s an eclectic gleaning of components. Syrah (39.5%), Grenache (16.5%), Cinsault (15%), Mourvédre (15%), Sangiovese (6%), Cab (3.5%), Petit Verdot (3.5%), Souzao (.5%), Touriga (.4%) and then some Malbec (.1%). Blueberries, black cherries, milk chocolate and white pepper notes make for an opulent and rich drink with tannins providing just a bit of traction and Grenache supplying the sweetness. — 12,000 cases Pendulum Winery $25 2004 Red Wine, Columbia Valley Andrew Browne of Precept Brands joined forces with Long Shadows chief Allen Shoup on this blend of Cab (51%), Merlot (27%), Syrah (13%), Cab

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Franc (8%) and Barbera (1%) from 12 sites — led by Milbrandt-owned Sundance — for a racy red-toned quaffer. Pomegranates, red peppercorns, red bell peppers, strawberries and Rainier cherries leave the tannins and oak behind in delicious fashion. — 2,772 cases Brian Carter Cellars $58 2000 Solesce, Columbia Valley Here’s Brian Carter’s flagship wine, and it shows. Merlot (44%), Cab (32%), Cab Franc (14%) and Malbec from Klipsun, Wahluke, Kestrel and Solstice vineyards feature a kick of currants in the nose, along with crushed walnuts, mocha, pipe tobacco and enticing herbs. Bright blueberries and bittersweet chocolate flavors get entwined with solid acidity before giving way to a finish of Earl Grey tea, blackberries and plums. — 140 cases Col Solare $70 2003 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley A partnership of Tuscan legend Marchesi Antinori and Chateau Ste. Michelle annually produces one of the Northwest’s most famous reds. Cabernet Sauvignon supplies the power (80%) with Merlot (10%), Cab Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot as Renzo Cotarella and Doug Gore got first pick of Ste. Michelle’s top fruit. It shows in this smooth, deep, rich drink dominated by black cherries. Underlying notes of black currants, leather and graphite are met by solid acidity and nice tannins that make this very easy to quaff or enjoy with a marinated flank steak. — 1,000 cases Cave B Estate Winery $50 2004 Cuvée du Soleil, Columbia Valley Rusty Figgins already is promoting this estate fruit adjacent to the Gorge at George (Wash.) under the proposed “Ancient Lakes” appellation. He turned the blend of Merlot (40%), Cab (40%) and Cab Franc into a black beauty with sweet blackberries, plum jam, citrus and cedar aromas. Spicy black currants and cherries await with milk chocolate and bittersweet chocolate adding texture on the midpalate. Good acidity, leather and black tea notes give this pleasing extension. Suggested life is 8-10 years. Decant if unwilling to wait until 2008. — 240 cases Whitman Cellars $24 2003 Narcissa, Walla Walla Valley Steve Lessard produced some stunning blends at Hedges Cellars before moving to Walla Walla. Grapes from Pepper Bridge, Les Collines and Spofford Station make for a blend of Cab (67%), Syrah (20%), Merlot (8%) and Cab Franc that’s loaded with dusty cherries, blackberries, flint and toasted oak. That dark fruit turns juicy on the palate with hefty and ageable tannins, followed by a Bing cherry farewell. — 2,180 cases Napeequa Vintners $25 2004 Trailhead, Spider Meadows Edition, Columbia Valley The label of this blend with Cab (70%), Merlot (20%) and Syrah features a black & white contour map, and there are lots of tangents to this full-bodied release from

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near Lake Wenatchee. It starts with good fruit in the nose from black cherries, plums and cedar. Toasty oak and cherries carry the entry toward blackberries, huckleberries and bell pepper on the rich midpalate that fills out slowly and deeply with balance. — 125 cases Pleasant Hill Winery $18 2004 Alegria, Columbia Valley Larry Lindvig’s proprietary blend of Merlot (49%), Sangiovese (29%), Malbec (19%) and Grenache starts with an incredibly inviting nose of dried red fruit, blackberries, plums, cedar and sage. The addition of Sangio and its bright acidity gives it zip on the palate to go with spicy cherries, a nice plum/blackberry midpalate and a finish to savor of stewed plums and rhubarb compote. — 80 cases RoxyAnn Winery $75 2003 Parsons Family Reserve, Rogue Valley A pairing of Cab (60%) and Cab Franc (40%) pays tribute to the family that’s owned Medford’s Hillcrest orchards and vineyards since 1908. There’s no shortage of fruit here with pie cherries, currants, brambleberries, allspice and toasted oak aromas. Well-stated cherry flavors sidle next to rhubarb with pleasing tartness in the finish, capped by vanilla extract. It ranks as the most expensive wine in the judging and shows better than most. — 125 cases Best Buy!

Shimmer $15 2004 Red Wine, Columbia Valley It’s easy to remember this blend by Precept Brands because it’s half “SHI-raz” and half “MER-lot.” Hence, the name Shimmer. And it’s a very easy drink with a base of blue fruit joined by cherries, bittersweet chocolate and cola aromas. Nice, fleshy blueberry and raspberry flavors are steadied by sturdy tannins. — 3,000 cases Pheasant Valley Winery $17 NV River City Red, Columbia Valley Rich Cushman crafted this blend of Merlot (40%), Syrah (25%), Malbec (20%) and Zinfandel in an apéritif fashion and seemingly uninfluenced by wood with a nose of cherry and apple juice. Delicious are the flavors of purple fruit with nice balance, capped by a long and lovely finish of black cherries. It sets up nicely for food pairings, particularly fish or chicken. — 392 cases Bishop Creek Cellars $18 2005 Vintners Blend, American Assistant winemaker Jeremy Saville gets the credit here. They bought juice from Abacela in the Umpqua Valley — Cab (50%) and Tempranillo (13%) — and Syrah (25%) and Merlot (12%) from Three Rivers in the Walla Walla Valley. Impressive is the outcome, starting with its head-turning garnet color. Aromatics include pomegranates, boysenberries and dusty cherries. A smooth entry features red currants and Bing cherries. Vanilla is well-timed and proportioned in the middle. It’s not too strongly structured for pork, chicken or red pasta dishes. — 32 cases

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Whidbey Island Winery $19 2002 Composition, Yakima Valley The Osenbachs long have believed in Yakima Valley fruit, and this Bordeaux blend of Cab (45%), Malbec (22%), Merlot (22%) and Cab Franc is a crowd-pleaser that opens with cherries, currants, lavender, mint, sassafras and green peppercorns. Those notes continue on the palate with a bit of sweetness, good acidity and late tannins. — 212 cases Nicholas Cole Cellars $48 2004 Camille, Columbia Valley There’s an amazing array of sources — Klipsun, Champoux, Canoe Ridge and DuBrul — in this blend of Merlot (64%), Cab Franc (23%) and Cab, and Michael Neuffer lets the fruit do the talking. Blueberries and black cherries are supported by rich oak spice. Inside, it’s dark and lovely with rich black cherries and nice acidity that’s focused by assertive tannins. This wine will be available in May. — 2,108 cases Best Buy!

David Hill Vineyards and Winery $9 NV Farmhouse Red, Columbia Valley Jason Bull is improving the line at this 1883 farmhouse in Forest Grove, Ore. He leads with Sangiovese (44%) from the Columbia Valley, followed by Lemberger (36%, Yakima Valley), Cab Franc (9%) and Cab (8%) out of the Rogue, and Merlot, Syrah and Barbera from the Wahluke Slope. Pie cherries, lavender and green olives aromas trend to Bing cherry juice flavors with nice sweetness that amplifies acidity of tannin across the long finish. — 1,600 cases C.R. Sandidge $50 2003 Tri*Umph, Yakima Valley Ray Sandidge’s talents helped launch Kestrel, and he continues to use that fruit for this blend of Cab (53%) and Merlot (19%) that incorporates Malbec (28%) from Klingele. The result is huge influences of cherries, chocolate and Aussie Red Licorice throughout, with red currants, bracing acidity and edgy tannins. Sandidge suggests liberally seasoned beef, duck or lamb as an accompaniment over the next eight to 10 years. — 256 cases Three Rivers Winery $39 2004 Meritage Red, Columbia Valley Holly Turner pulled Cab (38%) from Martinez and Bacchus, Merlot (25%) off Dionysus, Malbec (16%) from Alder Ridge, Cab Franc (13%) from Chelle den Millie and Petit Verdot by Snipes Canyon. It’s a lighter style with currants, mocha, bell pepper and green peppercorn aromas with more currants and pie cherries on the palate. Youthful tannins don’t stop strawberries from showing in the finish. — 388 cases Best Buy!

Portteus Vineyards $10 2005 Bistro Red, Rattlesnake Hills Some of the region’s top winemakers buy grapes from Paul Portteus. Obviously, he keeps some for himself. This blend of Merlot (45%), Cab Franc

(43%) and Cab shows off notes of ginger, alfalfa, hibiscus, lots of cherries and a little tea, making for a refreshing and fun blend with food-friendly tartness and acidity. — 1,500 cases O•S Winery $20 2005 Red Wine, Washington Bill Owen doesn’t dress this up. Rather it’s a sturdy, straightforward blend of Cab (40%), Merlot (30%) and Cab Franc that kicks off with sun-dried tomatoes, Baker’s chocolate, cedar and pipe tobacco notes. The real message is inside with sweet cherries and currant flavors, a trail of sage across the midpalate, rewarding tannins and a delicious berry/chocolate finish. — 600 cases Zerba Cellars $19 2004 Wild Z, Columbia Valley Here’s indeed a wild blend of Syrah (25%), Merlot (22%), Cab (15%), Sangiovese (12%), Cab Franc (10%) and Grenache (7%). The results from the collection of Pleasant, Willard and Willow Crest sites, along with Wooded Island, are lively, starting in the nose with black cherries, black olives, mocha and vanilla. Black cherries dominate the palate, where there’s a sweet midpalate and good balance with food-friendly tannins. — 1,400 cases Mount Defiance Wine Co. $20 2005 Brimstone, Columbia Valley A second label for Phelps Creek of Hood River, Ore., it is Peter Rosback who gets the credit. He takes Merlot (75%) and Syrah (25%) and produces a wine with fragrances of sandalwood and hops. On the palate, it’s a deliciously sweet and velvety cherry entry with white pepper at the midpoint and strawberries on the finish. — 523 cases Portteus Vineyards $36 2004 Reserve Red, Rattlesnake Hills Estate “old vines” Cab (52%) is tied with Malbec (16%), Merlot (16%) and Petite Sirah (16%) and bound by 100% new French oak. You get toasted marshmallow and black cherry aromas, but on the palate is an intriguing mix of pie cherries, cranberries, peaches and apricots. — 150 cases DeLille Cellars $34 2004 D2, Columbia Valley Another Woodinville, Wash., chateau centers on Red Mountain (Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun) but branches out to Harrison Hill in the Yakima Valley and Stillwater Creek north of Wahluke for a blend of Cab (45%), Merlot (41%), Cab Franc (12%) and Petit Verdot. Whiffs of cherry and vanilla, as well as mocha and molasses, turn into a drizzle of black cherries and coffee with sweet tannins then a rich, long finish of brambleberries and cracked black pepper. — 3,000 cases Best Buy!

Canoe Ridge Vineyard $15 2004 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley They could call it a Bordeaux — Merlot (75%) and Cab (25%) — and while the name is dressed down, the structure from estate fruit is rather stylish. It spent just 12 months in mostly neutral French oak, adding to its approachability. A

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Ridge looks down steeply upon the Columbia River from the Horse Heaven Hills, and this is no wine for the faint of heart. Syrah (35%) is closely followed by Grenache (30%), Mourvédre (17%), Counoise (13%) and Cinsault (5%). Expressive aromas of maraschino cherryies, currants, lilacs and loganberries are met by flavors of blackberry jam, orange peel, rhubarb and cherry pie filling toward the sturdy finish. One judge remarked, “Acidity is paramount to its structure, and it will be best enjoyed with strongly flavored foods.” Grilled lamb chops would be a good start. —875 cases Northstar Winery $29 2003 Stella Maris, Columbia Valley Eight vineyards produce this almost-Bordeaux blend of Cab (47%), Merlot (45%), Malbec (4%) with Syrah (4%). The bouquet is of green peppercorns, tobacco leaf, Bing cherries and vanilla. It’s big and juicy in the mouth with black cherries on the entry with hints of blueberries and strawberries entwined by chewy tannins, yet its finish turns opulent with berry jam and chocolate. — 4,385 cases L’Ecole No. 41 $45 2004 Ferguson Commemorative Reserve, Columbia Valley This tribute to founders Jean and Baker Ferguson didn’t come without worry because of the historic winter kill in the Walla Walla Valley, but this blend of Cab (48%), Merlot (42%), Cab Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot is rewarding. Klipsun, Bacchus, Dionysus, Weinbau and Stone Tree form a beautiful base of violet perfume, plums and quince paste in the aromas. Juicy blue fruit of plums, huckleberries and blackberries are carried to the end by tannins built for the long haul. It’s enjoyable now, too. — 1,813 cases Vashon Winery $30 2002 Anniversary Reserve Red, Washington From Ron Irvine, author of The Wine Project on Washington’s wine history, comes a delightful 33-33-33 blend of Portteus Cab and Cab Franc and Stillwater Creek Merlot. It’s a fruity nose of boysenberries and bright Bing cherries with thyme, cocoa and leather mixed in. The nice fruit structure carries across to the flavors, adding cranberries, tobacco and milk chocolate. — 60 cases piquant nose flaunts cherries, plums, cranberries, raspberry and a bit of tar. The drink shows wonderful depth of fruit, akin to plums grabbed right off the tree, with some vanilla cream, figs and soft tannins in the shadows. — 7,000 cases Lopez Island Vineyards $20 2003 Cab-Merlot, Yakima Valley Any mainland fruit for this island winery comes off Crawford Vineyards in Prosser, and this blend of Cab (81%) and Merlot shows a lot of toasted oak aromas but also some cherry, currant and loganberry. The flavors are loaded with Bing cherries and loganberries, then plums and blackberries in the midpalate made smooth by a finish of Baker’s chocolate. — 234 cases

Best Buy!

Columbia Crest $8 2002 Two Vines Merlot-Cab, Columbia Valley One of the beauties of a blind judging is confirming the values, and this might be the best. Ray Einberger’s assemblage of Merlot (52%), Cab Franc (28%) and Cab (20%) produces aromas of cinnamon, orange zest, strawberry and green peppercorns. Flowing in are flavors of blackberries and black cherries across a plush midpalate of leather and chocolate. You should have no trouble finding this. Keeping it around is another matter. — 250,000 cases Zefina $30 2003 Serience Red, Columbia Valley Alder

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Saviah Cellars $35 2004 Laurella, Columbia Valley Aromas of mixed berries and pomegranate easily shake out of a melange that’s Cab from Kiona and Lewis vineyards, Cab Franc via Stillwater Creek and Champoux Merlot. It’s no wonder Richard Funk delivers a palate with a continuation of boysenberries and black currants in very juicy and pleasing richness where great acidity casts the tannins in the background. — 122 cases Best Buy!

Ridgefield Winery $10 2004 Cinnamon Teal, Columbia Valley Pete Hedges crafts this Cab (91%) and Merlot blend

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for Red Mountain neighbor John Dingenthal, which is 50/50 from estate Sandhill Vineyard and Inland Desert on nearby Rattlesnake Mountain. Pie cherries, cedar and maple syrup aromas lead into spicy raspberries, Bing cherry tea and herbal flavors. This quaffer is built to be enjoyed soon. — 4,120 cases Colvin Vineyards $29 2003 Allegresse, Walla Walla Valley The 2002 edition earned a 2006 Platinum, and there’s promise shown again in this bottling of Merlot (50%), Cab (30%), Cab Franc (18%) and Carmenére from Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, Spofford Station, Ash Hollow and Chelle Den Pleasant. Brambleberries and sweet French oak are well integrated from front to back. Nicely extracted black fruit and alfalfa notes lead to a long sendoff. — 450 cases Best Buy!

Bonair Winery $14 NV Camerlot, Columbia Valley The Puryears prefer its pronunciation as “ca-muh-LOT” rather than “Ca-mair-LO.” Regardless, the blend of Merlot (60%) and Cab (40%) by these zany Zillah, Wash., winemakers revolves around black cherries and spicy berries. There’s a hint of eucalyptus and oak in the nose, followed by a nice structure of black cherries and raspberries through to the finish. — 220 cases Arbor Crest Wine Cellars $45 2002 Dionysus Meritage, Columbia Valley Perhaps no other wine in the competition spent more time, 36 months, in barrel that this. And the Cab (60%) that Kristina Mielke van Loben Sels uses comes from some of the oldest blocks in the state at Dionysus and Bacchus vineyards. The influence of Merlot (30%) and Cab Franc hits early with red currants, cedar, orange zest and some herbal dustiness in the nose. Cab and its tannin hits early in the mouth, but there’s plenty of charm in the black cherries on the delicious midpalate and beyond. It’s built for the long haul, but if you love milk chocolate, it will be difficult to keep around for the predicted 15 years. — 750 cases Best Buy!

Waterbrook Winery $15 2005 Melange, Columbia Valley Nearly a decade has passed since Eric Rindal and Co., first created this blend, and it’s a secret bargain no longer. For this edition, the approach is Merlot (40%), Cab (32%), Sangiovese (18%), Cab Franc (7%) and Syrah (3%). The results are notes of boysenberries, black cherries and subtle oak with a nice roundness on the palate and balanced tannins. — 16,522 cases

Cork-free!

Velocity Cellars $18 2004 Velo, Rogue Valley Here is Gus Janeway’s own label, a cyclist in his spare time when he’s not making wine for six other wineries. This blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab

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and Syrah is all about blueberries and in an easy-drinking fashion. It takes a bit for the tannins to show, but they are pleasant when they arrive. — 401 cases Horan Estate Winery $25 2004 HVH, Columbia Valley Doug McDougall and his new operation in Wenatchee, Wash., incorporates Cab (52%) and Syrah (48%) with enchanting results in memory of his mother, the late Helen Vandivort Horan. Pie cherries, cinnamon, milk chocolate, oregano, tobacco leaf and charred oak fill the nose. In the mouth are cordial cherries, plums and black cherries wrapped in a rich and smooth drink with beautiful tannin management.— 125 cases Brian Carter Cellars $30 2003 Tuttorosso, Yakima Valley One of four entries in this judging, this is Brian Carter’s expression of a Super Tuscan with Sangiovese (64%), Cab (27%) and Syrah (9%). Beautiful aromatics include black cherry candy and rose petals. Inside, it’s classic Chiantilike acidity from Sangiovese that pushes the Rainier cherries, pie cherries and cherry tomatoes across the palate. Tannins peek through just a bit, and a glass of this screams for pasta.— 270 cases DiStefano Winery $25 2003 Meritage, Columbia Valley Mark Newton’s entry of Cab (43%), Merlot (37%) and Cab Franc spotlights Seven Hills, Roza Hills and Sagemoor’s Bacchus vineyards, respectively. Pomegranates and berries swirl around the French oak influences of cedar, chocolate and vanilla amid a structure that found favor with the panel. — 853 cases

Cork-free!

Windy Point Vineyards $19 2004 Exclamation Point! Yakima Valley This destination winery in Wapato, Wash., opts for a lighter-style, food-friendly Bordeaux blend leading with estate Cab Franc (60%), then Merlot (40%). Liz Stepniewski, the winemaker, offers aromas of red currants, strawberries, cinnamon, green peppercorns and pleasing oak that transcends seamlessly into nicely balanced cherry fruit with some herbal underpinnings, good acidity and tannins that gently build. The tasting room also serves as a restaurant, so try with some herb-influenced barbecued chicken. — 220 cases James Leigh Cellars $20 2003 Palette, Walla Walla Valley Lynne Chamberlain owns her winery, makes her wines and manages her estate Spofford Station Vineyards. Hands-on care from vineyard to bottle shows in his blend of Merlot (60%), Cab (30%) and Cab Franc that’s focused on captivating cassis notes from start to finish. Cola and chocolate add complexity to the nose, and the palate is approachable and lush with a stream of nice acidity and balanced tannins. — 650 cases

Nicholas Cole Cellars $25 2004 GraEagle RedWing, Columbia Valley An all-star lineup of vineyards — Klipsun, Champoux, Alder Ridge, Canoe Ridge and DuBrul — allowed Michael Neuffer to spread his wings on this blend of Cab (49%), Cab Franc (39%) and Merlot (12%). The results are quite Bordeauxlike with bell pepper, cedar and Creamsicle aromas, followed by lots of Rainier cherries and red currants in the mouth that are met by solid structure and a cherry-citrus creaminess. — 1,864 cases O•S Winery $32 2004 Klipsun Vineyard M, Red Mountain Fruit off Red Mountain can pack quite a punch, but the Merlot (70%) over Cab is more of a brush with a velvet glove. One judge caught a whiff of cashmere behind the maraschino cherries, raspberries, currants and dried orange. — 288 cases Pend d’Oreille Winery $28 2003 Berghan Vineyard, Washington This Idaho winery reaches almost into Oregon, the location of this Walla Walla Valley plot near Pepper Bridge, for an incredibly intriguing blend of Cab (70%) and Merlot. Blood orange, peach, apricot and fresh-cut alfalfa are the hallmarks of this wine, which finishes with tasty loganberries and raspberries.— 250 cases Kana Winery $29 2004 Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain This young Yakima winery is serious about its reputation by using sites such as Jim Holmes’ famed vineyard for its blend of Cab, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Bright red fruit notes of raspberries, cherries and red currants, spiced with citrus, cedar and bay rum, go down gently with ripeness, zippy acidity and a hit of chocolate. — 440 cases Alder Ridge Vineyard $40 2002 Meritage, Columbia Valley Rob Chowanietz crafted Corus estate fruit into a blend of Cab (36%), Malbec (28%), Merlot (18%) and Cab Franc that spotlights rich marionberries and blackberries. Underlying tones of black tea, walnuts, cedar and graphite are joined by cellar-friendly acidity. — 250 cases Brian Carter Cellars $30 2003 L’Etalon, Yakima Valley Years of making some of Washington’s top wines gives Brian Carter an edge when it comes to the Yakima Valley. This blend of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot unleashes an array of inviting oak, raspberries, president plums, pie cherries and lilac. — 280 cases Cathedral Ridge Winery $18 2005 Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley Michael Sebastini entered one of the youngest wines in the field, and this 50/50 split has a bright future ahead. It’s juicy, pleasant and the solid acidity — combined with remarkably low alcohol (12.5%)

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— 400 cases

Velocity Cellars $30 2004 Red Wine, Rogue Valley The pursuit of a great Rogue Claret is akin to a holy grail for Gus Janeway, but he steps to the side with this blend that includes Syrah. It’s a telling additive, producing a striking garnet color with blueberry and cherry aromas. More purple fruit awaits with hints of lavender and nice length, boosted by great acidity for a T-bone. — 400 cases Best Buy!

Three Rivers Winery $13 2004 River’s Red, Columbia Valley Holly Turner leaned toward Merlot (51%), then came back with Cab, Malbec and Grenache for a robust, cherry-laced offering with notes of dried strawberry, sandalwood, butterscotch and coffee. The judges believe this will continue to improve, which is remarkable for a wine at this price point. — 1,361 cases Sawtooth Winery $25 2003 Elevation Red, Idaho Brad Pintler manages to squeeze in some time for fun. Here he combines Syrah, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Malbec and Primativo for a rewarding release featuring rich black cherries and currants, bell pepper, smoke, graphite and earthy minerality. — 135 cases Best Buy!

Sawtooth Winery $10 2004 Skyline Red, Idaho Brad Pintler tapped into both Sawtooth and Skyline sites and opted for co-leaders Syrah (40%) and Cab (40%) in this blend with Merlot, Tempranillo, Cab Franc, and Cinsault. A wise choice indeed as it produced a potpourri of notes of blackberries, black cherries, dried sage, smoke, black olives and Baker’s chocolate. — 3,000 cases Best Buy!

Avery Lane $7 NV Red Blend, Columbia Valley Precept Brands winemaker Steven Sealock could be crowned the king of “Best Buys” in the Northwest. Here’s another impressively drinkable release of Merlot, Cab, Syrah and Cab Franc that broadcasts aromas of plums, blackberry jam, cranberries and cocoa powder. On the palate, it’s deeply layered with rich cherries and tongue-tingling acidity. — 5,612 cases Ash Hollow $36 2004 Terassa, Columbia Valley This young Walla Walla winery crushed Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc, turning them into aromas of black cherries, green peppercorns and a whiff of smoke. On the palate is a richness of plums and blueberry pie filling amid good structure and touch of spiciness at the end. — 125 cases

ized-label from Bob Delf ’s Kirkland, Wash., operation, inside is this charming wine of Cab (51%), Merlot (25%) and Cab Franc. A sweet nose of brownies, plums, cooked cherries and cassis is met on the tongue by smooth and complex flavors of bright cherries, red licorice, vanilla and allspice. — 1,000 cases Best Buy!

Bonair Winery $14 NV Frankensauv, Columbia Valley Gail Puryear’s Web site features a lively bit of social commentary, and his wines are worthy of discussion, too. He named this for the emphasis on Cabernet Franc (78%) vs. Cab Sauv (22%), and it’s filled with piquant qualities of red fruit, especially cherries and raspberries. The Cab Sauv adds a bit of firmness. — 462 cases Owen Roe $21 2005 Abbot’s Table, Columbia Valley David O’Reilly makes note that this — his biggestselling wine — is the first red he creates each year. It no doubt demands time with a list of Cab, Merlot, Zin, Cab Franc, Syrah, Blaufrankisch, Sangiovese, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Malbec. The results are fruit-forward, rewarding and smooth. — 4,500 cases Best Buy!

Whitman Cellars $14 2004 Killer Cab, American A catchy label of a psycho cab driver combined with the wine inside makes this a good party gift. Destiny Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills), Les Collines (Walla Walla) and Del Rio (Rogue Valley) cross state lines for a blend of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc that peels out with cherries, blueberry tea, eucalyptus and violet notes. — 2,750 cases Fielding Hills Winery $28 2004 RiverBend Red, Wahluke Slope The Wade family chose to diversify its orchards with estate vineyards in Mattawa, Wash., and they’ve shown themselves to be quick learners. This blend of Cab (65%), Merlot, Syrah and Cab Franc is akin to drinking a berry shake while driving down a dusty road. — 142 cases Spring Valley Vineyards $50 2004 Uriah, Walla Walla Valley Serge Laville centers this estate blend on Merlot (60%), which is supported by Cab Franc, Cab and Petit Verdot. Red licorice, plums, caramel and granola bar aromas carry into more of the same flavors firmly bound by a structure of assertive tannins and acidity. — 2,095 cases

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Devison stretched out a bit for his Merlot, Cab and Cab Franc, reaching into Stillwater Creek, Ryan Patrick, Charbonneau and Weinbau for a blend that drips with pie cherries, rhubarb, caramel and chocolate. — 1,141 cases Robert Karl Cellars $45 2003 Inspiration Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley This blends Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec and emerges with aromatics of cola, cranberry, sarsaparilla, toasted nuts, green pepper, earth and tea. A tart blackberry approach leads into a strawberry/rhubarb midpalate. — 75 cases Basel Cellars $36 2003 Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley Trey Busch enjoys blending, and he doesn’t overreach with this Merlot and Cab Franc, which lures with spiced plums, molasses and green peppercorns. Inside are plums and black cherries, some chalky tannins on the midpalate and a finish of berry tea and tobacco. — 565 cases Pend d’Oreille Winery $28 2004 L’Oeurve Reserve Red, Washington Stephen Meyer’s high-end blend won’t be available in Idaho until Mother’s Day, but it’s showing love already. Cab, Merlot, Malbec and Cab Franc meet and greet with blackberries, vanilla and coconut notes that are rich and sewn together with hearty tannins. — 139 cases Woodward Canyon Winery $50 2003 Charbonneau, Walla Walla County Rick Small features this vineyard overlooking the Snake River. The blend starts with Cab (56%) and goes on with Merlot and Cab Franc encased in new French oak for a lighter style focused on the future with a theme of cherry, currant and raspberry fruit. — 409 cases Best Buy!

Snoqualmie Vineyards $11 2003 Whistlestop Red, Columbia Valley Joy Andersen made this for everyday enjoyment, and there’s a fun start with whiffs of red currants, Bing cherries and orange cream soda. Juicy cherries and currants push this along to a tart midpalate and a finish of chocolate cherries. — 10,000 cases

RECOMMENDED

Best Buy!

RoxyAnn Winery $25 2004 Claret, Rogue Valley This estate blend of Merlot (41%), Cab (32%) and Cab Franc is another impressive showing from Southern Oregon. Black cherries, plums, chocolate, almonds and butterscotch are constructed in a lighter style showing good acidity. — 1,556 cases

Merry Cellars $30 2005 Twilight Hills Red, Washington The growing circle of wineries in the Palouse includes Patrick Merry’s in Pullman, Wash., which adroitly features Merlot, Cab Franc and Cab for a pleasure cruise of plums, cherries, tobacco and leather notes. Sweet fruit on the palate is focused on dark plums and carried on a chassis of tannin and acidity. — 206 cases

Northwest Cellars $15 2004 Red, Washington If you buy the red blend — or Rachel Red — with a personal-

Tsillan Cellars $25 Bellissima Rosa, Columbia Valley Peter

Baer Winery $29 2003 Ursa, Columbia Valley This relies

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Lynne Chamberlain of James Leigh Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash.

branched out. This blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cab is reminiscent of a Beaujolais with purple fruit and lavender, then fresh blueberries and huckleberries. — 12,998 cases O•S Winery $38 2004 R3, Columbia Valley Here’s a particularly food-friendly blend of Merlot, Cab and Cab Franc that begins with cherries, plums, green peppercorns and bell pepper aromas. It repeats on the palate with the addition of marionberries and blueberries. — 555 cases Gilstrap Brothers Vineyard & Winery $18 NV CSM, Columbia Valley A blend of Merlot and Cab from the Yakima Valley and Syrah from Columbia Crest create a structure of cranberries, mint and rich tomato paste that’s balanced and welcoming. — 200 cases

almost entirely on Stillwater Creek fruit from the Frenchman Hills. A feminine approach was found in a delicate nose of black cherries, cassis, lime and a hint of bamboo. Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab and Malbec lay the groundwork for lush red fruit flavors. — 979 cases Foris Vineyards Winery $30 2002 Siskiyou Terrace Claret, Rogue Valley This part of Oregon has no problem ripening the Bordeaux varieties of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc. Wonderful lilacs and lively cherry notes lead into a palate of plums, black cherries and blackberries. — 270 cases Best Buy!

Bridgeview Vineyards $10 2003 Cab-Merlot, Southern Oregon This Cave Junction, Ore., operation blends Cab and Merlot to produce an easy-drinking red. It’s plums in the nose with a mix of cherry varieties, some citrus, anise and crushed herbs. Then, it’s cherry and plummy on the palate.— 5,000 cases Best Buy!

Foris Vineyards Winery $14 2002 Fly-Over Red, Rogue Valley This blend of Merlot, Cab and Cab Franc shows black cherries, allspice and green tea in a richly structured drink with a minty midpalate and tannins that build. — 5,691 cases David Hill Vineyards & Winery $22 2004 Mosaic, Yakima Valley Cab Franc (50%) is first in line, with Merlot, Cab and Syrah, producing spicy black currants, rose hips, pie cherries and vanilla all tied up with youthful tannins. — 205 cases Best Buy!

Cayalla $12 2005 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley Howard Rossbach’s Firesteed winery has

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Forgeron Cellars $35 (magnum only) NV Anvil Red, Columbia Valley Three vintages make this blend of Merlot, Cab and Syrah that opens with red fruit, leather and mince meat. It turns black and blue, rich and creamy on the palate with bittersweet chocolate in the finish. — 310 cases Best Buy!

Pend d’Oreille Winery $11 2004 Bistro Rouge, Washington One of the most reliable and best-priced blends comes from North Idaho. Stephen Meyer called on Merlot, Cab, Syrah and Cab Franc to create a perfumy bouquet of cherry wood spice. The addition of black currants in the flavor is topped with cherries. — 1,748 cases Best Buy!

Maryhill Winery $15 2005 Winemaker’s Blend, Columbia Valley A blend of Merlot, Cab, Syrah and Cab Franc, this shows off blueberry and black pepper notes, along with dried cherries and assertive tannins. — 6,167 cases Bridgeview Vineyards $40 2004 Black Beauty Red Blend, Applegate Valley Front-loaded with estate Syrah (75%), Merlot and Cab Franc are added as this starts with inviting oak, plums, mulberry and rose hips. It’s definitely Syrah with blackberries and plums on the rich entry. — 83 cases Snake River Winery $26 2003 Reserve, Idaho Scott DeSeelhorst blended Cab, Merlot, Malbec and Cab Franc into a pleasing drink that’s loaded with vanilla, tobacco leaf, plums, dried cherries and chocolate-dipped orange peel. — 230 cases Dalla Vina $24 2005 Bella Vista Red, Columbia Valley This is just the second vintage for Karl Dinger at his Wilsonville, Ore., winery, and his leading of Malbec produces a blueberry-based structure. The addition of Cab Franc, Cab, Merlot and

Petit Verdot combine to add hints of moist earth, alfalfa and bell pepper. — 100 cases Woodward Canyon Winery $55 2003 Estate Red, Walla Walla Valley Rick Small cropped the grapes for this vintage of record-high temperatures down to 2 tons per acre. The predominance of Cab Franc shows in red peppercorns, dried herbs and cassis aromas that transition to more black cherries and currants on the palate. Bold tannins emerge from the Merlot, Cab and Petit Verdot. Woodward’s big reds are perhaps the most ageable in the Northwest, so just wait. — 485 cases Best Buy!

Portteus Vineyards $10 2005 Rattlesnake Red, Rattlesnake Hills Paul Portteus produces another high-valued wine, this an estate blend of Cab, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Syrah. Spicy berries, crushed leaf and cedar are joined by good acidity and an easy finish of pie cherry filling. — 1,400 cases Pleasant Hill Winery $22 2004 Donatella, Washington This blend of Cab, Merlot and Sangiovese greets with cherry and cedar aromas, followed by an incredibly approachable entry of black cherries and currant jam. — 60 cases

Cork-free! Best Buy!

Six Prong $13 2004 Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills Estate fruit from Alder Ridge comes in five different flavors — Cab Franc, Cab, Sangiovese, Malbec and Syrah — with notes of black cherries, strawberries, nice oak and tannins. — 4,150 cases Best Buy!

Magnificent Wine Co. $10 2005 House Wine, Columbia Valley Charles Smith of K Vintners has achieved Charles Shaw-like fame regionally with this blend of Cab, Merlot and Syrah. Cherries, blackberry and milk chocolate are backed with food-inviting acidity. — 50,000 cases

Cork-free!

Basel Cellars $20 2004 Claret, Columbia Valley An oak-driven blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cab and Cab Franc releases aromas of cocoa, cherries, leather and cedar. On the palate, it’s black cherries, blackberries and mocha with black truffles in the finish. — 1,425 cases Seven Hills Winery $30 2004 Ciel du Cheval Vintage Red, Red Mountain Jim Holmes’ viticultural thumbprints were felt throughout this judging, including this vineyard-designated blend by Walla Walla veteran Casey McClelland. He used an almost even hand among four varieties — Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. — 768 cases

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Barnard Griffin Winery $14 NV Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin’s wine for the masses has overall appeal from a blend of Cab (72%), Cab Franc and Merlot, starting with nice floral, blueberry, plum and boysenberry aromas. It’s more of that same great blue fruit on the finish. Cuneo Cellars $25 2003 Two Rivers Bordeaux Style, Rogue Valley/Red Mountain Gino Cuneo gets cooking here as he toasts two of the Northwest’s hottest regions with this blend of Merlot, Cab, Cab Franc and Malbec. — 1,411 cases Townshend Cellar $18 NV T3, Columbia Valley It’s called “The Restaurant Blend” because it’s available only at the winery or in a restaurant. Black fruit, richness and tannins with grip are among the virtues of this release. — 500 cases Columbia Crest $35 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley One of the most sought-after Bordeaux blends in the Northwest, its heritage is that of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc. Hints of cherry, alfalfa and vanilla cascade into flavors of cherries. — 6,000 cases Cuneo Cellars $55 2003 Cana’s Feast, Red Mountain Gino Cuneo uses prime sites in Oregon and Washington for his prized reds, and this blend of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc shows off black cherries, blackberries and cedar. — 643 cases Brian Carter Cellars $17 2003 Abracadabra, Columbia Valley Notes of black fruit, cedar, moist earth, truffles and controlled tannins don’t appear by magic. This is a blend of Cab, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Sangiovese and Malbec. — 417 cases Urban Wine Works $18 2005 Six Degrees of Celebration Blend, American Estate Pinot Noir (45%) from Bishop Creek in Oregon’s Yamhill joins with winery juice of Cab and Tempranillo from Abacela, Merlot and Syrah from Three Rivers and Cab Franc via Abeja. Its nose is beautiful with strawberries, violets and oak spice, and the structure is appealing with rich pie cherries. — 32 cases Icicle Ridge Winery $28 2005 Log Home Red, Washington One of the youngest wines in the field shows plenty of promise. This blend of Merlot and Cab is loaded with notes of huckleberries, blueberries, plums and chocolate. — 300 cases Townshend Cellar $34 2001 Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley With more than 30 months in barrel, this blend of Cab, Cab Franc and Merlot was the secondoldest wine in the competition. Spicy apples,

plums, black cherries and pizza sauce in the aromas join more plums with tart pie cherries on the palate. — 215 cases Maryhill Winery $44 2004 Proprietor’s Reserve Serendipity, Columbia Valley Black cherries, pie cherries and 100% new oak, nearly all of it French, all cast long shadows in this big blend of Merlot, Cab, Malbec and Cab Franc. — 260 cases

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Upchurch is all about Bordeaux blending. This blend of Cab, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot offers delicate oak, cherry vanilla, cola and anise. — 1,000 cases Lone Canary $30 2003 Proprietor’s Reserve, Yakima Valley Longtime Spokane vintner Mike Scott taps into Willard Family and DuBrul Vineyards for a plush, plummy and chocolaty blend of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc. — 169 cases

Best Buy!

Mount Baker Vineyards $14 2004 Barrel Select Cab-Merlot, Yakima Valley Priced for everyday enjoyment, sundried tomatoes, strawberry/rhubarb and allspice aromas sail into rich plum and leather flavors, met by tannins that build. — 149 cases

Kana Winery $20 2004 Dark Star Red Wine, Columbia Valley This blend of Syrah, Mourvédre and Grenache by this Yakima, Wash., winery reveals concentrated black fruit, chocolate, French oak spice and herbs. — 528 cases

Chateau Ste. Michelle $48 2003 Artist Series Meritage, Columbia Valley This blend of Cab, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot is a lighter style of cherries, pomegranates and raspberries, cinnamon, bay rum, orange spice and milk chocolate. — 1,300 cases

Cowan Vineyards $17 2004 Tartan Red, Yakima Valley This young winery in Prosser, Wash., works with established estate fruit, producing this blend of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc that’s big on pomegranates and pie cherries with pipe tobacco and a bit of bell pepper. — 350 cases

Best Buy!

Hinman Vineyards $13 2004 Red Wine, Rogue Valley Jonathan Oberlander marries Bordeaux (Cab, Merlot, Malbec) with Rhône (Syrah, Grenache) for a broad-shouldered crowd-pleaser featuring black cherries, plums, unripe blackberries and violets. Release is this summer. — 1,500 cases

Parma Ridge Vineyards $22 2002 Melange, Idaho Dick Dickstein creates his “mixture” from Merlot, Cab, Malbec and Cab Franc. Rich red cherries, inviting dill weed and red peppercorns lead into racy red cherries with acidity to match. — 195 cases

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards $18 2003 Bench Rock Red, Washington Merlot, Cab and Syrah come together for notes of sarsaparilla, plums, cinnamon, crushed leaf and black cherries. — 1,000 cases

Forgeron Cellars $46 2002 Reserve Vinfinity, Columbia Valley This blend of Cab, Merlot and Syrah offers dusty cherries and strawberry-rhubarb notes. Try with duck confit or Beef Bourguignon. — 364 cases

Best Buy!

E.B. Foote Winery $19 2004 Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley A straight-forward blend of Cab and Merlot, it is filled with strawberry jam, pie cherries and spice from chili pepper flakes. — 415 cases

Townshend Cellar $14 NV Vortex Red, Columbia Valley This blend of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc unleashes raspberries, cordial cherries and maple notes that grab your attention and follow through on the palate in a mouth-filling fashion. — 500 cases

Best Buy!

Colvin Vineyards $50 2003 L’etoile D’hiver, Walla Walla Valley Mark Colvin likes to tell the story that the lone barrel of his inaugural vintage of this wine in 2001 glowed in the dark. Black cherries, alfalfa and earth swirl all around this blend of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc. — 100 cases

Abacela Vineyards $15 2004 Vintner’s Blend No. 7, Southern Oregon Six vineyards among the Applegate, Umpqua and Rogue appellations contribute to this amazing array of 13 varieties. Oak spice, brambleberries, alfalfa and leather notes are easy to pick out in this easy drinker. — 2,121 cases

Brian Carter Cellars $30 2003 Byzance, Yakima Valley Southern Rhône is the style for this mix of Syrah and Grenache. Cherries, strawberries and cedar notes lead to blackberry flavors, joined by tart cherries and bright acidity in the midpalate and rhubarb compote in the finish. — 234 cases

Covey Run Winery $9 2003 Quail Series Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley One of the most abundant releases in the competition, this reveals raspberry, pie cherries and cedar. — 28,257 cases

DeLille Cellars $69 2004 Chaleur Estate, Yakima Valley Chris

JACKIE JOHNSTON is a regular contributor and the

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. page designer for Wine Press Northwest.

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Discover Idaho’s Great Wine & Cuisine

20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, ID 83609 Tours & Tastings 12-5 Sat. & Sun. 208-455-8386 • www.koenigvineyards.com Available at fine retailers and restaurants

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Newly repackaged cases of Columbia Crest wine roll past Jeff Lathrop off the assembly line.

Pallets of Bookwalter wine are among the many stored on site.

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Barrel storage is a new service at CI Cellars.

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Columbia Industries employs developmentally disabled workers, giving them meaningful jobs while wineries get labor they need.

A PERFECT SOLUTION FOR SPECIAL NEEDS S T O RY B Y M A RY H O P K I N PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

Khape Kaing breaks down case boxes that have been emptied.

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ess Sherman, manager of CI Cellars, is a compact bundle of energy.

“We’ve got so much going on here, I’m running all the time,” said Sherman, who speaks in quick, staccato sentences, while her fingers flutter nervously, as if they need something more to do. Sherman, a wisp of a woman whose spiked brown hair helps her reach 5 feet tall, oversees 31 developmentally disabled clients, a bonded wine warehouse and a packaging and storage facility. It’s all part of Columbia Industries, a nonprofit organization that trains and employs about 100 developmentally disabled residents in Washington’s Columbia Valley. The organization started in 1963 as the United Cerebral Palsy Association of Benton & Franklin Counties, helping those afflicted with cerebral palsy and other disabilities. In 1981, the name was changed to Columbia Industries. Now, Columbia Industries has a budget of more than $4 million and its various businesses: CI Shred, CI Assembly, CI Gifts, Shop CI, CI Cellars and CI Packaging & Storage

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bring in more than $2 million each year. Rich Foeppel, the organization’s executive director, said CI employees have continually looked for diverse business ventures to help fund the organization, and it’s found a cork-tight fit in the wine industry — providing bonded storage for bottles and barrels, repacking and even labeling services. Columbia Industries’ packaging and repacking operation goes back 25 years, when its clients were repacking Welch’s grape juice. When Welch’s announced in 2005 that it was closing its downtown Kennewick plant less than two blocks from CI Cellars, Sherman and Foeppel weren’t worried. By that time, CI workers already were packing more wine than fruit juice. Columbia Industries had obtained a winery license so CI Cellars could store wine barrels, in addition to the cases of bottles already there. And now, the 18,000-square-foot warehouse along Railroad Avenue in downtown Kennewick is a hub of activity. Hundreds of oak barrels are neatly stacked in a climate-controlled room, and nearly 84,000 cases of wine are stored in the warehouse. Forklift drivers move pallets of wine and paper products while avoiding the center of the warehouse, where CI workers build cardboard inserts to hold a promotional six-pack of Ste. Michelle wines. Every week, the workers face a new task, Sherman said, from packaging horse treats and assembling chairs, to relabeling hundreds of cases of wine because of new state regulations. The workers, all of whom are developmentally disabled, are always willing to learn something new and work tirelessly to complete projects, she said. “I’m always amazed,” she said. “It may take a while to figure something out, but once they do, they go 76

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Below, a worker tears open a case of Columbia Crest so it can be repackaged. At right, Ricky Farmer removes bottles from the old box and puts them in a Costco display box. At bottom, Jimmy Castillo stacks display boxes to form a new pallet.

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c.i. cellars at a pretty good pace.” They will try any job at least once, she said. And that attitude has earned them some loyal customers. About three years ago, Ste. Michelle officials called CI needing some help. They had been hiring temporary employees during the year’s busiest times to build boxes, shrink-wrap bottles and do specialty packaging. They offered the job to Columbia Industries, and Foeppel quickly agreed. The deal came at a time when Columbia Industries’ sewing shop and wood shop were being shut down, leaving some workers without jobs. So CI invested $40,000 to turn the Railroad Avenue building into a bonded wine warehouse. Since then, the company has been serving the area’s wine industry well. Charlie Hoppes, owner of Fidèlitas Wines on Red Mountain, stores barrels and bottles with Columbia Industries and is quick to tout Columbia Industries’ services to his peers. “I believe in their mission, and they fill a tremendous need, not just for my winery, but for everyone,” he said. CI Cellars is the only bonded wine warehouse in the Tri-Cities, and that means small winery owners, such as Hoppes and Larry Oates, owner of Sleeping Dog Wines in Benton City, don’t have to spend a fortune building storage space at their wineries. “And I can bring cases over without labeling and they can label them for me,” Oates said. “They do a good job and are very diligent about it.” In addition, the smaller wineries can consolidate shipping out of the warehouse, to save on the cost of shipping wines across the country. “Whether I ship a truckload with one pallet of wine or 22, it will cost the same, so we have been able to do a little consolidation and working with other wineries that store wine

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at CI to use the same trucks to California,” Hoppes said. John Bookwalter, co-owner and winemaker of Bookwalter Winery in Richland, said having storage so close to his winery is especially convenient. “I keep all my case goods there — and barrels,” he said. The steady business CI Cellars receives from the wine industry helps it provide job training for its workers. “It’s about the clients and keeping them going, Sherman said. At any time, Columbia Industries has at least 100 developmentally disable people working in their shops — and another 200 waiting for jobs. “So the reality is that we are always looking for new ways to maintain our business, and we want to reach out and work with people with higher disabilities,” Foeppel said. Getting a foot in the door with the wineries has given CI the ability to find new ways to find work within the industry, he said. “We are doing more specialty packaging — bottle wrapping, labeling, putting stickers on bottles,” he said. Hoppes said before the holidays that he had Columbia Industries put a neck label bearing his signature on his high-end wines and also tissue wrap them for Christmas gift giving. “That’s something you can’t do on a bottling line,” he said. Foeppel said CI Cellars is always happy to take on jobs such as that and is looking at more ways to help out the area’s wineries. “We are considering expanding to handle bottle waxing and are also looking at wine club administration,” he said. ı MARY HOPKIN covers the business side of the wine

industr y for the Tri-City Herald newspaper in Kennewick, Wash. She is a frequent contributor to Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

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Explore Puget Sound Wine Country Family owned & operated winery producing fine wine using estate organically grown & Yakima Valley grapes. Open Sat. 12-5 beginning March 24 May-June; Fri. & Sat. 12-5 & by appt www.lopezislandvineyards.com winery@lopezislandvineyards.com

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San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA

360-378-WINE Spring hours begin March 14: Wednesday - Sunday 11 - 5 & by appt.

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360-592-2300 Tasting room open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily

Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com

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360-966-7787 • Traditional wines • Dessert wines • Wine truffles

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Western Washington's Great Wine & Hospitality 121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.

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O•S Winery Formerly Owen-Sullivan Winery

Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.owensullivan.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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The Sentinel Gap of the Columbia River rises in the distance from vineyards near Mattawa, Wash.

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Chateau Ste. Michelleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Indian Wells wines are made with Wahluke Slope grapes.

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Remote, hardly known and underappreciated, one of Washington’s newest AVAs is also one of its biggest and best:

THE WAHLUKE SLOPE S T O RY B Y A N N A K I N G PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

he Wahluke Slope could define the phrase, “Emerging viticultural region.” It’s not home to dozens of modern tasting rooms, restaurants or plush bed-and-breakfasts — not yet. The appellation has just two wineries and one hard-to-find tasting room at Fox Estate Winery in Mattawa. But it does have 81,000 acres of land, with nearly 5,200 acres of vineyards, which is nearly 20 percent of the state total. Top winemakers discovered the area’s potential for rich-flavored fruit long ago and are liberally pouring the region’s grapes into many of Washington’s most acclaimed wines. Col Solare, Northstar, L’Ecole, Fidélitas, Snoqualmie, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells wines and K Vintners are just a few that contain Wahluke fruit. Few bottles sport Wahluke Slope designations, but wine grape growers hope that will change soon because the area was approved in early 2006 as an American Viticultural Area. In the wine business, a regional designation can mean big money. Consumers often use appellations to distinguish between superb and less-blessed vineyards. Charlie Hoppes, winemaker and owner of Fidélitas Winery on Red Mountain, said he’s made wine with Wahluke Slope fruit since the early 1980s, though few of his customers have ever seen the region. “It’s so remote, it’s not on the way to any place,” he said. Hoppes uses nearly 25 percent Wahluke fruit in his popular Fidélitas blends. Rob Griffin, owner of Barnard Griffin Winery in Richland, Wash., said his award-winning reds couldn’t do without Wahluke Merlot and Cabernet. Griffin said Wahluke vineyards produce red wines with big fruit, deep body and loads of varietal character. “It’s a warmer site, it has nice air drainage, and the soils are properly crummy,” he said. “For my Merlot in particular, Wahluke fruit is the key,” he said. The dry area allows grape growers to control the vigor of the vines, and the warm slope allows red wines to become fully mature, he said. Griffin drives through the desolate patch of highway between Richland and Wahluke more than twice a week during harvest.

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It’s critical to harvest the grapes when they aren’t overly ripe or with underdeveloped tannins, he said. The Wahluke Slope is an immense gravel and silt bench left by the great Ice Age floods some 15,000 years ago. On a recent visit, area growers explained how the ancient land form has diverse soils and altitudes that influence temperatures and how grapes ripen. The Wahluke Slope’s soils change dramatically from coarse gravel and A B O U T T H E WA H L U K E S L O P E E large erratic boulders near the Columbia ıϧEstablished in 2006, the Wahluke Slope is River in the west to one of Washington’s newest appellations. talcumlike dust farıϧNaturally bounded by the Columbia River ther up the slope. to the west and south, by the Saddle “We would have Mountains on the north, and by the Hanford been about 600 to Reach National Monument on the east. 800 feet under water ıϧThe Wahluke Slope appellation is within at this point during the established Columbia Valley appellation the height of the outand is home to more than 20 vineyards. burst floods,” said ıϧThe 81,000-acre region has about 5,200 Alan Busacca, a soil acres of vineyards, or nearly 20 percent of scientist and Ice Age the total wine grape acreage in the state. Floods expert during ıϧThe appellation’s top grape varieties a recent visit to the include Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope. Riesling and Chardonnay. “(It’s) an unimaginıϧWahluke Slope has one of the driest and able amount of warmest climates in the state, which gives water.” growers nearly complete control of their Busacca explained vines. that when massive — SOURCE: WASHINGTON WINE COMMISSION amounts of water rocketed through the confined channel of Sentinel Gap, they had tremendous power and carried loads of sand and boulders. But as the water spread out again, the large boulders and sands settled out of the flood waters. Now, hundreds of boulders line Highway 243, where farmers have made room to plant grapes. “They give us a real clue as to the power that shaped these landscapes,” Busacca said. Growers have planted mostly Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Chardonnay. Grapes near the west end are some of the state’s earliest ripening, while those to the east — just 13 miles away — often are among the last to be picked. Sometimes, growers leave fruit to hang on the vines until early November. Kent Waliser, general manager of Sagemoor, Bacchus, Dionysus and Weinbau vineyards, said many Wahluke growers planted grapes because they were looking for something more profitable than apples. Later, others saw the success of that idea and started planting vines, too.

Butch and Jerry Milbrandt are brothers who own Milbrandt Vineyards.

QUICK FACTS

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Fox Estate Winery in Mattawa has the only tasting room in the Wahluke Slope appellation.

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Now, growers are trying to develop their identity as a grapegrowing region. Despite roots as farmers, many Wahluke vineyard owners say they hope to build their own wineries, though probably in more established and popular wine tourism areas such as Prosser, the Tri-Cities, Red Mountain, Wenatchee, Leavenworth or Woodinville. Butch and Jerry Milbrandt, owners of Milbrandt Vineyards, recently built a winemaking facility near Mattawa and plan to open a tasting room in the Prosser Business Park. “We chose the Prosser site because it’s already a destination,” Jerry Milbrandt said. “But in five years, we could certainly have a tasting room here.” For those who like to mix a bit of adventure with their wine tasting, the Wahluke Slope already has a lot to offer. The quiet place isn’t overrun with busloads of visitors and jam-packed tasting rooms. The trellis-covered slope is hemmed in by rugged hills, expansive desert and the great, meandering Columbia River. Native song birds flit among the vines, a steady breeze buffets the sandy landscape, and there are few buildings to mar the pastoral view. Visitors here have ample opportunities to see vines and wellknown grape growers up close. Two small bergs — Mattawa and Desert Aire — offer intrepid tourists a brief repose for a soda, ice cream bar and tank of gas. Several local Mexican restaurants cater to the hundreds of seasonal farm workers who harvest the area’s fruit-laden branches and vines. And venturing off the printed menu is a good bet for those seeking some authentic dishes. Hikers can explore the nearby Hanford Reach National Monument, which is particularly spectacular when desert wildflowers bloom in the spring. Or visitors can enjoy a leisurely picnic and a dip in the Columbia during the summer months. But the agrarian wine touring experience may only be available to those who visit soon. Eastern Washington towns such as Walla Walla, Prosser and Wenatchee are rapidly shedding their rustic image for sleek shops, hotels and Seattle-priced restaurants. Jerry Fox, owner of Fox Estate Winery and one of the pioneering growers in the Wahluke Slope, said he envisions the area chock full of metropolitan wineries soon. He’s seen a lot of change in the remote area since he planted his first grapes in 1978 — more cars pass along the highway and his winery’s annual BratFest drew more than 350 people last year. Perhaps the Wahluke Slope isn’t a tourist mecca yet, but the region’s scenic landscape, unique growing conditions and flavorful grapes are sure to lure more visitors soon. “The grapes love it. They think it’s the best place to be,” Fox said. ı ANNA KING covers wine and viticulture for the Tri-City Herald newspaper in Kennewick, Wash. She is a regular contributor to Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

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M AT C H M A K E R S

26brix’s Broccoli Soup with Vermont Cheddar “Fondue” paired with Brandborg’s 2005 Umpqua Valley Pinot Blanc.

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M AT C H M A K E R S Building on Main Street. “It was wasn’t the best Christmas, that’s for sure,” Davis said. Two Northwest chefs pair their dishes with Brandborg’s 2005 Umpqua Valley Pinot Blanc

POINT BLANC PAIRINGS S T O RY B Y E R I C D E G E R M A N PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

26BRIX WA L L A WA L L A , WA S H .

ike Davis created his culinary dream in the wine country of the Walla Walla

Valley. “I came to Walla Walla to start the second Five Diamond restaurant in the state of Washington,” Davis said in reference and reverence to The Herbfarm in Woodinville. There’s no doubt Davis, 33, wields the skill and creativity to make it happen at his 26brix in downtown Walla Walla. After all, Davis, by the age of 30, served as executive chef at The Salish Lodge in Snoqualmie, Wash., and performed at the prestigious James Beard House in New York. However, for several weeks this winter, the future of 26brix turned deep-six. Finances forced him to turn out the lights on his nationally acclaimed restaurant in the historic Darces

Without a group of “angel investors” who believed Walla Walla needed what Davis has to offer, 26brix would still be dark, he said. “We’d actually sold off our wine inventory,” Davis said. “It will take us time to build it back up.” He learned a painful lesson that residents of Walla Walla — not the wine tourists — didn’t want exactly the type of experience that 26brix became known for. “My goal was to be the French Laundry of Eastern Washington,” Davis said of the famous restaurant in Napa Valley. “We were hoping to break new ground in Walla Walla, to educate the locals on what fine dining was and to bring a new level of dining to the flourishing wines of the Walla Walla Valley.” Visitors sought out the Walla Walla wines, which Davis and wine director Robert Ames continue to feature prominently on his bythe-glass chalkboard. Those include Colvin, Dusted Valley, Forgeron, L’Ecole No. 41, Rulo, Saviah, Seven Hills, Three Rivers, Waterbrook, Walla Walla Vintners, Woodward Canyon and Yellow Hawk. Those outof-towners also seemed to embrace the cuisine. “Over the last 21⁄2 years, we’ve learned we can rely on tourists from May through early December,” Davis said. “The rest of the year, we need to appeal to Walla Wallans. The local consumer is a very important customer for us. We decided that in order to bring Walla Walla what it wants, we’ve had to change our style and lower our price points. “We’ve raised portion sizes and probably made

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

WINE Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $18 2005 Umpqua Valley Pinot Blanc —206 cases produced

ach issue, Wine Press Northwest sends wine to two chefs with a passion for our region’s wines. The chefs are asked to match a recipe to the selected wine. Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Gris and not nearly as well received in Oregon. There were 190 acres of Pinot Blanc planted in 2005, which ranked fifth among whites behind Pinot Gris (1,885), Chardonnay (842), Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Just two acres are planted in Douglas County. Terry Brandborg grabs both for his winery in Elkton, Ore., a stone’s throw from the Umpqua River on Highway 38. His source is Wayne Hitchings’ 220-acre Red Hill Vineyard, just east of Interstate 5 near Yoncalla. “Red Hill Douglas County is the coolest site in the Umpqua Valley, and it’s a single-vineyard AVA,” Brandborg said. “At 1,300 feet, it’s also the highest elevation in the Umpqua.” In Burgundy, Pinot Blanc often was confused with Chardonnay, according to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine. It gained acceptance in Alsace but has been embraced by Germans, particularly in Baden and Pfalz. “We are committed to the cooler-climate varieties, and Pinot Blanc is kind of a new thing and a fun thing to add to our portfolio,” Brandborg said. The 2005 vintage was his third with this fruit. It was barrel-aged in neutral French oak and boasts a pH of 3.15 and total acidity of 0.78. “Red Hill Vineyard is always a very high acid and low pH site due to its elevation, general coolness and huge diurnal temperature shifts. That is why we wanted to emphasize sur lies aging and full malolactic fermentation to build the midpalate,” Brandborg said. “Even with the full ML, the acid profile is such that we pretty much know the finished total acidity will lend itself to a food-friendly wine.” He and wife Sue favor it with the sweet meat of Dungeness crabcakes. Brandborg Vineyard & Winery, 345 First St., Elkton, OR 97436, 541-5842870, www.brandborgwine.com.

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Broccoli Soup with Vermont Cheddar “Fondue” Serves 8

2 heads of broccoli (about 3 pounds) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, sliced thin 1 cup dry white wine 1 1⁄2 cup heavy cream, separated use 2 quarts chicken or vegetable broth 1 ⁄2 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 12 ounces Vermont cheddar, shredded or cubed Croutons or bagette, optional 1. To prepare the broccoli cut off the florets then tear them into smaller pieces. Cut about 1⁄2 inch off the stem, peel, then slice thin. 2. Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized stock pot over medium to mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and garlic, then sauté until they turn translucent. At this time add the white wine and continue cooking until wine is reduced by half. Once this is complete, follow the same procedure with 1⁄2 cup heavy cream as with the white wine. 3. Add the trimmed broccoli and sauté for one minute. Stir in the broth, then bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cover and simmer until broccoli is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, then cool slightly. 4. Working in batches, transfer soup to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. 5. Strain soup through a fine mesh sieve, then return to the heat. Bring soup back to a simmer, then remove from heat. 6. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. 7. For the fondue: Add remaining cup of cream to a heavy bottom sauce pot and bring to a boil. Add the cheddar and simmer until completely melted 8. To finish: Distribute the soup into serving bowls then using a spoon, drizzle the fondue into each soup. As an added bonus, add some herbed croutons or baguette to each bowl.

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Mike Davis, executive chef and owner of 26brix Restaurant in Walla Walla, Wash., has been working in restaurants since he was 13.

it easier for people to recognize the food that they are ordering,” he added. “Before, each plate was a piece of art we called ‘neo-classical American cuisine.’ What we are doing now is taking traditional favorites and bringing them back with a 26brix twist.” Davis shows pride in having developed his style without classic training. Professional kitchens served as his classroom, aside from a stint at Seattle Central Community College, years after a letter he received when he was 8 years old. “My dad and I used to watch Julia Child on TV, and I wrote a letter to Julia Child telling her I wanted to be a chef,” Davis said. “She wrote me back this big, long letter telling me all the culinary schools I should go to.”

daily research. “I’ve been doing this for so long, I can’t remember where I grabbed this from here and learned that from there,” he said. Perhaps the most inspiring event of his career was a wine pairing dinner called “East Meets West” at South Seattle Community College. “It was Seattle chefs and Walla Walla winemakers,” Davis said. “It was Holly Turner at Three Rivers who invited me out to do a winemaker’s dinner for Spring Release weekend in May. I’d never been to Walla Walla. “I drove around Walla Walla and

26brix is on the ground floor of the historic Darces Building on Main Street.

By the age of 13, he was in a country club kitchen in New Orleans. “My first experience was standing on a milk crate cutting finger sandwiches with an electric knife,” he said with a smile. “I wonder if that was violating child-labor laws.” His first “real cooking job” came in 1995 at Seattle’s Ponti Seafood Grill with Alvin Binuya. Along the way, he’s relied on first-hand work experience throughout the country and ➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

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M AT C H M A K E R S said, ‘I think everybody in the world is planning to open a restaurant in Walla Walla, so I need to come out as fast as I can,’ ” he recalled.

Granny Smith acidity. The Vermont cheddar has a salty, savory and nutty character, which brings out the fruit in the wine even more.

Three months later, he was creating 26brix.

“The broccoli gives you all that green chlorophyll and earthiness, which is a nice match to the underlying minerality we found in the wine,” she added. “We were really impressed with the richness of this wine. I don’t always have high expectations for Pinot Blanc, but in this case, we were both very pleasantly surprised. Great wine.”

“I was ahead of the curve, but with the quality of the wines, Walla Walla definitely needs a restaurant of our caliber,” he said. “I’ve been trying to get East, and Walla Walla is as far as I’ve gotten in the last five years. We’ll see what’s to come. New York and Chicago have always intrigued me.” Walla Walla also proved to be a match maker in a more personal way for Davis. He married Krista McCorkle, former executive director of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance. Davis and McCorkle take joy in their daughter, Luci, and all three were smiles on the bustling eve of their re-opening on Valentines Day. It will be interesting, though, to see how long Davis will remain comfortable in a market that asks a James Beard chef to edge toward comfort food. “It’s been very difficult to step back a bit,” Davis said. “To make the switch has definitely taken me some time, and I have had to come to grips with it. But I am very happy to serve what we are serving. I wouldn’t be open if I wasn’t happy with what I was serving.” A delicious example of Davis’ style and McCorkle’s palate came out when they paired his Broccoli Soup with Vermont Cheddar Cheese “Fondue” with Brandborg Vineyard and Winery’s 2005 Pinot Blanc from the Umpqua Valley. “I haven’t seen a Pinot Blanc in a long time,” Davis remarked. “There’s so much acidity in this wine — it’s a nice palate cleanser. It’s zesty and zingy.” McCorkle added, “There’s an exotic nose to the wine, which is melon, cantaloupe and slightly underripe pineapple. On the palate, I think of apples: Braeburn complexity and

26brix, 207 W. Main St., Walla Walla, Wash., 99362, 509-526-4075, www.twentysixbrix.com.

COKE ROTH’S KITCHEN

Coke Roth cuts a Cornish game hen in half with kitchen shears.

R I C H L A N D , WA S H .

oke Roth never worked as a chef in a restaurant, but the gourmet attorney and international wine judge holds court in the kitchen well enough to have been host of his own cooking show on TV. The programs were aired by local network affiliates in the Tri-Cities, the heart of Washington’s wine country. In that B.C. era — before cable — he nearly had a captive audience. “They aired from 1978 through 1981, on KVEW and then on KNDU,” Roth said. “It was called ‘A Look Inside the Wine Barrel,’ and then it was ‘The Grapes of Roth.’ I still have a copy of the outtakes, which is really funny.” Within a decade, Roth had sold his beer and wine distributorship and began practicing law in Kennewick, Wash. “What we were going to do, before I went to law school, was convert this kitchen into a display kitchen,” he said from his condo along the fourth fairway at Meadow Springs Country Club in Richland. “I had talked to Washington State University about doing a PBS special. I had storyboards all ready to go

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for 13 shows, back when you could do 13 shows on wine country and hit every winery in the Northwest in 13 weeks. Of course, now you couldn’t do Walla Walla in 13 weeks.” The gregarious Roth, 57, began his professional career in the wine world in 1972, when he trained with Gallo Wine Co., before returning to the Columbia Valley and the family business — Roth Distributing. “In the beverage business, my father always thought if we knew more about the quality of the products, we’d be able to sell better and inform our customers,” Roth said. “I began to train a lot of restaurateurs, waiters and waitresses on what kind of wine goes with what kind of food. And if you look at me, it looks like I’ve never missed a meal, for godsake.” In those early days, the Northwest wine industry was just starting to grow on the backs of pioneers such as Dick Erath, Harry McWatters and the late Bill Preston. Roth established business ties and struck up friendships, gaining experience in viticulture, enology and judging at wine competitions across the country. He

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPES Lime-Ginger Cornish Game Hens

Cokespice

Serves 4

⁄4 cup dried basil ⁄4 cup dried tarragon 1 ⁄4 cup dried thyme (preferrably lemon thyme) 1 ⁄4 cup dried granulated onion 1 ⁄4 cup dried granulated garlic 1 ⁄2 cup kosher salt 1 ⁄8 cup medium course ground black pepper 1 ⁄8 cup ground white pepper 2 tablespoons paprika 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper 1

⁄4 cup or more fresh ginger, thinly sliced 1 ⁄2 cup Spanish onions, thinly sliced 1 heaping tablespoon peppercorns Lime juice Margarita mix 2 large Cornish game hens or Rock Cornish game hens Olive oil “Cokespice” (see recipe below) 2 cups unsalted or lightly salted chicken stock 1 ⁄4 cup fresh lime juice Sweet onion Fresh ginger Salt and pepper to taste 1

1. Prepare marinade by adding ginger, onion and peppercorns to a large bowl and covering with a blend of half lime juice and half margarita mix. 2. Cut hens in half with shears, removing any excess fat, then dr y with paper towels and cover in marinade for 6-24 hours, turning from time to time. 3. Remove hens from marinade and dr y thoroughly on paper towels, then rub hens generously with olive oil. Next, generously season with “Cokespice.” 4. Grill until marked, then place in oven at 225°F for 15 minutes until done or on BBQ over indirect heat — not over coals or flame. (Roth prefers to use a George Foreman outdoor kettle-style electric grill, starting the dial from “5” to mark, then “2” to finish slowly.) 5. While hens are cooking, prepare citrus sauce by reducing chicken stock by half. Add in lime juice. Grate in some sweet onion and fresh ginger. Salt and pepper to taste. When reduced, drizzle over hens and serve with vegetable rice cakes and a green salad.

Mix thoroughly, place in jar or shaker. Makes enough for several barbeques. Vegetable Rice Cakes Serves 4

This side dish can be made with a variety of vegetables, herbs and seasonings anytime you’ve got some leftover rice to work with. Be creative, just be sure you don’t leave out the eggs and cheese, since these ingredients help bind the cakes together. ⁄2 small zucchini, thinly sliced into matchsticks 3 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced 1 ⁄2 onion, about 3⁄4 cup, minced 1 ⁄2 cup fennel (green fern portion), chopped 2 heaping cups mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 ⁄4 cup freshly grated ginger 1 bunch cilantro, thoroughly washed and chopped 1 ⁄4 cup parsley, chopped 3 cups cooked rice 2 cups grated Parmesan cheese 4 - 6 eggs 1 ⁄2 cup fresh lime juice Salt and pepper to taste 1

1. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl, making a slurr y, and form into 1-cup balls. 2. Place and smoosh each ball onto a buttered/oiled skillet or griddle over medium heat. They should look like thick pancakes. 3. Brown on both sides until mahogany brown.

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M AT C H M A K E R S

Lime-Ginger Cornish Game Hens with Vegetable Rice Cake paired with Brandborg’s 2005 Umpqua Valley Pinot Blanc.

also founded the Tri-Cities Wine Festival in 1978.

1976 Nez Perce County Fair in Lewiston, Idaho.

“There were very few wineries, and I was very fortunate to live in the Tri-Cities when wineries started popping up like Preston and Hinzerling, and I got to know all the old Oregon crowd,” Roth said.

“There were wines made from garlic, pea pods, and fruits I’d never heard of, and the winemakers were standing about three feet away from you,” Roth said. “They’d say, ‘That’s my wine, you’d better like it.’ ”

And Roth, who earned a degree in German from the University of Washington, had first-hand experience with the cold-climate varieties that helped the Northwest first gain fame.

It’s not uncommon for him to judge 10 competitions a year.

“I spent my junior year of college in Germany, so I started developing a tremendous appreciation for wines because I was kicking around the Rhine and the Mosel and the Alsace,” he said. Embracing the kitchen and the camaraderie that comes with sharing wine and his great cuisine with good friends seems instinctive to Roth. “I had the most marvelous father and mother, and everybody in my family older than me cooked,” Roth said. “And my father exposed me to the finest restaurants. We would eat the strangest things. He was a tremendous inspiration in all ways of my life.” The full name is Albert Coke Roth, III. His grandfather owned the first Coca-Cola distributorship in Wenatchee and subsequently got nicknamed “Coke.” It stuck and was passed down. Roth’s roots in the wine industry continue to reach deeper. He’s spearheaded a consortium involving winemaker Rob Griffin that is developing a 100-acre vineyard/winery project on Red Mountain. It’s called Vinagium. Last fall, Roth’s oldest son, Frank, became the winemaker at Tagaris in Richland. Ironic it is that Roth — named by Rotary as the Tri-Citian of the Year in 1987 — has judged wine competitions on both sides of the continent much longer than he’s been a member of the bar. His start came at the ➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

“You get exposed to a lot of different flavors when you are tasting and smelling wines,” Roth said. “If you can translate those, you can try to find something that matches well with food. Then you can be as creative as you want in the kitchen.” That begins to explain why Roth, a charter member of Wine Press Northwest’s judging panel, jumped at the chance to serve as a Match Maker chef. “This Brandborg Pinot Blanc is delicious stuff,” he said. “It’s got beautiful huge acidity and demonstrates citrus. It’s like a lime as opposed to lemon — which is like Chardonnay — or grapefruit, which would be like Gewürztraminer, or apple like Riesling. “Another thing is that it’s got a wonderful nutty character, not unlike Parmesan or aged Jack cheese,” he added. “Also you can feel a little bit of ginger-type spice and fig.” His sense for lime, nuttiness, savory and ginger led him to his Lime-Ginger Cornish Game Hens with Vegetable Rice Cake. “There’s something about Cornish game hens that really suck up the marinade,” Roth said. And there will be many glad to glean one of his recipes. Coke Roth, 8836 Gage Blvd, Suite 204-A, Kennewick, Wash., 99336, 509-783-0220, www.cokerothlaw.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” and “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated. Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Competitions To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Oregon State Fair, Northwest Wine Summit, Okanagan Fall Wine Competition, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Northwest Wine & Food Fest and Capital Food & Wine Fest.

got itself on our map with this well-balanced, fruit-forward Cab that opens with a sophisticated nose of blackberries, black currant, cherries, a bit of leather, a pleasing herbal note and teriyaki. Rich black cherries dominate the flavor profile, in which oak is merely an accent.

Lone Canary 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 824 cases, $20

Recommended. Spokane’s Mike Scott relies heavi-

ly on Bordeaux grapes from Willard Family Vineyard in Prosser, Wash., which is the main source for this cherry-focused Cab. Fresh plums, rosemary, lingonberries, vanilla and cedar also are easy to pick out in the aromas and flavors. Slightly chalky tannins and light acidity lend themselves nicely to a dish of pasta in a lighter red sauce.

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 416 cases, $16

Excellent. North Idaho winemaker Stephen

Meyer took fruit off various sites in the Columbia Valley — Horse Heaven Hills, Coyote Canyon, Pleasant and Berghan — for a Cab chock full of cherries wrapped in 20 months of oak. The nose includes cranberries, Earl Grey tea, baking spices and cedar. Inside, it is dominated by sweet black cherries before the tannins take over and lead into a finish of pie cherries.

Robert Karl Cellars 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 500 cases, $29

Excellent. Joseph Gunselman is devoted to the

Red Cabernet Sauvignon

wine that should accompany a marinated flank steak.

Fielding Hills Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Chelan Estate

Wahluke Slope, 366 cases, $30

2003 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Recommended. These East Wenatchee, Wash.,

Columbia Valley, 360 cases, $30

Outstanding! Not too shabby for Bob

Broderick’s first vintage off this scenic young vineyard not far from the Gorge Amphitheater. It’s a beautifully rich and expressive Cab that opens with black cherries, cola and black olives with spicy oak accents such as nutmeg, allspice and toast. They all translate onto the tongue, and those opulent flavors find tremendous hang time on the palate, accompanied by texture from great acidity and tannins that creep up and carry the fruit through to the finish.

E.B. Foote Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 218 cases, $19

Excellent. Portteus Vineyard produced the Cab

(89%) and Milbrandt Vineyards contributed the Cab Franc (11%). Merriment follows aromas of black cherries, rhubarb, green peppercorns, thyme and nice charred toast. Those same cherries, spices and herbs are joined by loganberries on the palate for a very easy drinking

orchardists consistently craft big yet balanced reds, and here’s another example. The inclusion of Syrah (18%), Merlot (5%) and Cab Franc (1%) makes for notes of black cherries, black pepper, leather, cedar, smoke and moist earth aromatics, which all carry through on the palate, where they are joined by black raspberries.

Horan Estate Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $25

Recommended. This new winery in Wenatchee,

Wash., blended in Syrah (13%) and the results are rather delicious, starting with whiffs of chocolate muffin cake, coffee, plums, watermelon and toasted oak. It’s loaded with flavors of rich black cherries, black currants, oak, chocolate and tea. There’s a bit of sweetness between the midpalate, firm tannins and vanilla notes in the finish.

Jones of Washington 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope, 739 cases, $16

Outstanding! This new winery in Quincy, Wash.,

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Horse Heaven Hills, and this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from McKinley Springs and Phinny Hill. Huge extraction and 24 months in new French oak create aromas of vanilla, cedar, leather, blackberry, moist earth and a piece of Jolly Rancher grape candy, followed by a mouthful of density from blackberries, black cherries, black olives and a send off of anise extract.

Snake River Winery 2003 Arena Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Idaho, 415 cases, $17

Recommended. This stadium-like vineyard over-

looking the Snake River near Boise produces some remarkable reds. This release opens with white strawberry, fresh leather and some bell pepper notes. Black currants and Kikkoman soy sauce with subtle tannins and acidity make it a very approachable and drinkable Cab.

TimberRock Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 195 cases, $20

Excellent. Kevin Rogers is a full-time vet in Post

Falls, Idaho, and a new father, but he still finds time to create noteworthy wines at his hamlet overlooking the Spokane Valley. This expression features aromas of dried Montmorency cherries, milk chocolate, cedar and rosemary. It’s chock full of cherries on the palate, joined by plums and framed with robust tannins that get a tasty jolt of tangy cherries in the finish. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Zerba Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 217 cases, $30

Excellent. The string of success with balanced reds keeps rolling for this young Oregon winery. A pure Cab from Willard Farms in Prosser, Wash., it features red fruit along the lines of cherries, cranberries and white strawberries with black olives, as well as vanilla and cedar from American oak. Its straight-forward yet approachable structure lends itself to a wide variety of tomato-based pastas and grilled meats.

Pinot Noir Elk Cove Vineyards 2005 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 1,281 cases, $38

Recommended. Estate fruit from this plot was first

planted in 1996 with cuttings from the estate Roosevelt Vineyard. And this release, while a young red-head in the glass, is already showing mature aromatics with cardamom, coffee and Burgundian notes of bell pepper and barnyard characteristics. The flavors range from cassis, dried plums and apricot to chocolate and green tea toward the finish.

Hoodsport Winery 2002 Pinot Noir Oregon, 181 cases, $27

Recommended. Grapes from historic Maresh Red

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Hills Vineyard in Dundee show aromatics of black cherry, boysenberry jam, plum, green peppercorns, sage and Black Gold potting soil with toasted oak in the bouquet. Boysenberries, plums and black cherries reappear on the palate, with chocolate notes amid the solid structure and peppercorn spice finish. It all should pair nicely with a savory sausage on a sunny day in the Puget Sound.

WINE REVIEWS

pepper and minced meat. The same sweet delicious red fruit hovers over your tongue, and the structure that focuses on acidity rather than tannins produces a delicate, smooth and easy drinking wine in part because of neutral French oak.

Phelps Creek Vineyards 2005 Becky’s Cuvée Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge, 180 cases, $24

Kramer Vineyards 2003 Rebecca’s Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 100 cases, $35

Outstanding! Trudy Kramer refers to this as her “terroir wine.” The combination of earthiness and the exceptionally warm vintage produced a sturdy wine. President plums and some herbaceousness combine with barrel-influenced smoke and oak notes in nose. Tart cherries, strongly brewed orange pekoa tea, mint and chocolate are met with pretty good acidity that led us to a plate of broccoli and beef at an Asian restaurant.

Outstanding! Renowned winemaker Peter Rosback taps into Phelps Creek Vineyard fruit for his Sineann line and makes the wine for this Hood River, Ore., operation. President plums, black cherries, light toast, river rock, Baker’s chocolate and coffee grounds only begin to describe the aromatics. There’s an early welcome from tannins, but they give way to pie cherries, chocolate nuances and pleasing acidity. This won’t overpower salmon or chicken, or you can opt to merely enjoy it by itself.

Phelps Creek Vineyards 2005 Judith’s Reserve Pinot Noir

MarshAnne Landing

Columbia Gorge, 78 cases, $39

2005 Pinot Noir

Excellent. It’s all estate fruit picked in the shadow

Umpqua Valley, 56 cases, $24

Outstanding! Greg Cramer has fun with the

eclectic name for his winery, and this release of predominantly 777 clone fruit is done in a fanciful style, starting with aromatics of cherries, cranberries, raspberries, teaberry, red

of Mount Hood, and there’s a lot to like. A touch of vanilla merely accents the black cherries and pie cherries in the nose. More cherries, loganberries and raspberry acidity are showcased. A bit of fine-grained tannin, vanilla and black cherries creep up in the finish.

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding or Recommended wines that retail at $15 ($18 Canadian) and under.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2004 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 696 cases, $14

Excellent. This Italian variety is gaining a wider following with Northwest

wineries, and this expression is one of the best — especially at this price. Wahluke Slope Vineyard, partially owned by vintner Kristina Mielke van Loben Sels’ family, grew the fruit that she crafted into a release that starts with strawberries, allspice, black currants, slate, smoke, oak, mineral and dried cherries. The entry is silky with black cherries, mocha and tobacco leaf as raspberries add bright acidity across the palate before frontal tannins appear in the finish. She recommends baby-back ribs drizzled with huckleberry sauce, honeyglazed pork tenderloin or pasta with a red sauce.

Claar Cellars Estate Winery 2002 White Bluffs Rendevous Red

nate the fruit, which features plums, yet there’s intriguing essences of teriyaki and red pepper flakes. It’s a very plummy and rich drink from start to finish, but the presence of Hershey’s chocolate sauce doesn’t exert much influence on the gripping tannins. A marbled rib eye, grilled duck, foie gras, Braunsweiger or some venison should do well alongside this Rendezvous.

Columbia Crest 2003 Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley, 150,000 cases, $11

Excellent. Fruit off the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope forms the

backbone of this widely available wine, that includes Cab (1%) and Cab Franc (1%). Strawberries, sarsparilla, vanilla extract and black truffle notes lead into flavors of red currants, blueberries and pie cherry acidity with midpalate of spice and a sweet finish of semi-sweet chocolate.

Columbia Valley, 400 cases, $13

Hyatt Vineyards

Recommended. Estate fruit from near the Hanford Reach makes up this

2004 Merlot

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (32%), Syrah (2%) and Cab Franc (1%). A timespan of 25 months in French oak didn’t domi-

Outstanding! Quality and value are long the hallmarks for this veteran

Yakima Valley, 3,507 cases, $8

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding or Recommended wines that retail at $15 ($18 Canadian) and under.

Yakima Valley label, and thankfully there’s quantity, too. The mix of boysenberries, black pepper, bacon and toasted oak are reminiscent of a homemade barbecue sauce. Inside is a smooth and tasty entry of blackberry jam and cooked strawberries, then it builds complexity with a spin from the pepper mill. There’s a bit of grip in the finish that lends it to an entrée of flank steak or Kobe beef.

Lone Canary Winery

Rhône-style Syrah that factors in Cinsault (10%), Grenache (4%) and Mourvédre (4%). Black cherry cough syrup, raspberries, strawberries, alfalfa, cedar and pine needle aromas lead into flavors of the same fruit. Brad Pintler made sure they are met by bright tannins that build and good acidity.

Six Prong 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Barbera

Horse Heaven Hills, 950 cases, $13

Columbia Valley, 312 cases, $14

Milbrandt Vineyards with a racy, food-friendly wine from this Italian variety. Raspberry jam, Rainier cherries, malted milk balls, French oak and frest-cut hay describe both aromas and flavors. The entry is bright, bold and includes plums with huge acidity and subdued tannins.

Outstanding! Rob Chowanietz focused on Corus’ estate Alder Ridge and French oak to produce a lush screwcapped-Cab. Blackberries, pomegranate, blueberries, crushed leaf, milk chocolate and menthol rush in the nose. Purple fruit and cordial cherry flavors combine with a creamy midpalate and chocolaty tannins for a pleasing structure that should pair nicely with flank steak or lamb.

Pavin & Riley

Snoqualmie Vineyards

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

2004 Rosebud Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, $10

Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, $15

Outstanding! Here’s one of the first Cabs from this remarkable vintage,

Recommended. This site on the Wahluke Slope has produced grapes

and if this is any indication, start stocking up on 2005 reds. There’s some Cab Franc (21%), which heightens the red-toned fruit. Mouthwatering aromas of French roast coffee, cherry pie filling, huckleberries, sarsparilla and brown sugar don’t disappoint. On the palate, it’s graceful, akin to dancing with a ballerina. Nice complexity from red currants, cherries and juicy huckleberries is met by sweet tannins. Look for bits of peach and chocolate in the finish of this Precept wine.

specifically for Snoqualmie since 1991, and winemaker Joy Andersen views this vineyard with particular pride. It shows with black cherry, pomegranate and earthiness aromas, followed by light cherries, red currants, chocolate and black tea flavors. Enjoy it with steaks, ribs or rich beef-based soups.

Outstanding! Longtime Spokane vintner Mike Scott returned from

Rainier Ridge Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 3,000 cases, $6

Excellent. Expect a lot without spending much. That’s how dependable

the many labels of Seattle-based Precept Brands have become. A blend of Cab Franc (12%) and Syrah (5%) helps bring out scents of plums, Dr Pepper, sun-dried tomatoes, green bell pepper, dill and Baker’s chocolate. More plums and bell pepper swirl around, joined by black cherries, marionberries and river rock on the midpalate to make it lively and very drinkable. Late acidity and lingering chocolaty tannins keep this wine moving and the glass tipping in your favor.

Rainier Ridge Winery 2004 Merlot Washington, 5,000 cases, $6

Recommended. Precept Brands has branded itself as a regional leader in

affordable, approachable, any-night wines. Here’s one of their latest offerings, opening with black currants, bittersweet chocolate and toast. The inclusion of Cabernet Franc (10%) appears with leafy notes and bell pepper. It’s no fruit bomb on the entry, but nice cherries and currants rush in, as does pleasing acidity and late tannins that create an easy finish of berries and orange zest.

Sawtooth Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Idaho, 2,000 cases, $13

Excellent. Brad Pintler can almost step outside his front door and check

the grapes at Sawtooth Vineyard, and harvest was well-timed. The incorporation of Cab Franc (5%), Merlot (3%), Malbec (3%) and Petit Verdot (2%) accents the nose of fresh-cut hay, Bing cherries, tomato paste, wheat grass, light coffee and leather. Flavors step up in richness with blackberries, black cherries, leaf tobacco and supple leather. Easy tannins and Idaho’s famous acidity focus all those flavors.

Sawtooth Winery 2003 Syrah Idaho, 1,200 cases, $13

Recommended. Sawtooth and Skyline vineyards produced this affordable

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Ste. Chapelle 2003 Winemaker’s Series Cabernet Sauvignon Idaho, 1,886 cases, $9

Excellent. Each vintage, this Idaho winery produces some of the top

bargain reds in the region, and while the 2004 version of this is on the market, you may still be able to find this on store shelves in the Northwest. Blackberries, blueberries, black cherries and strawberries — along with chocolates and hay straw — fill the nose. It’s straight-forward and pleasing on the palate with cherries and vanilla that coat the tongue with medium weight.

Ste. Chapelle 2004 Winemaker’s Series Merlot Idaho, 1,000 cases, $9

Excellent. Chuck Devlin’s roots are in California, where you could say

they’ve had some success with this variety. This features a nose with pie cherries, cola, root beer, and green peppercorns. On the attack, it’s sweet with assorted cherries and more green peppercorns. There’s balance on the midpalate with nice acidity and a tannin structure that is well presented.

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2004 Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, 1,200 cases, $17 CDN

Outstanding! A key feature of this grape is its slight tannin structure compared with the other Bordeaux varieties, and Mark Wendenburg captures that quality. A complex nose includes black cherries, malted milk balls, dill, savory spice, sandalwood and light oak. It’s filled with flavors of black cherries, blueberries, boysenberries and loganberries, and yet there’s a charming leanness to this youthful drink off perhaps the most renowned site in the province.

Whitestone Winery NV Pieces of Red Columbia Valley, 280 cases, $12

Excellent. Leftover “pieces” of estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and

Cab Franc from various vintages at this Lake Roosevelt winery come together in solid fashion. Huckleberries, chalk dust and black pepper notes transition into flavors of ripe raspberries and red currant that are tied together with sturdy tannins.

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Redman Wines 2005 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 110 cases, $24

Excellent. Here’s a new winery on Ribbon Ridge

that relied on Bayliss Vineyard in the YamhillCarlton District for its inaugural release of a single wine. The results are impressive with nuances of cherries, juniper berries, chocolate, currants and smoke. It’s a strongly flavored Pinot, packed with cherries, currants, plums and frontal acidity. Among the suggested pairings by the Redmans are salmon or Beecher’s Flagship cheese.

Merlot Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2004 Merlot Southern Oregon, 679 cases, $19

Recommended. Kiley Evans, who now makes the wine for Dr. Earl Jones, sourced from the estate Fault Line Vineyard as well as Rogue Valley sites at Pheasant Hill and Alta Seca, for Merlot (75%), Cab Franc (12%), Cab (10%) and Petit Verdot (3%). It’s quite mellow, starting with a nose of pie cherries, stewed plums,

black cherries, tobacco leaf and vanilla. Inside, the flavors are big, fruity and smooth with black cherry and vanilla dominating as it goes across the palate. Suggested drinking is through 2010.

Argyle Winery 2003 Reserve Merlot Rogue Valley, 295 cases, $28

Outstanding! Del Rio Vineyard has quite a reputation for Rhône varieties, and here’s a Bordeaux beauty by Rollin Soles. Take a step into a humidor to start with cherry pipe tobacco, strawberries, black currants, coffee, vanilla and a dusting of flour. Black and plump cherries and met on the opulent midpalate by more currants, which ride along to the finish. Acidity is riding shotgun, with tannins sitting in the back, as they should be with Merlot. And it’s all easy to get to, thanks to the screwtop.

Barnard Griffin Winery 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 11,491 cases, $17

Outstanding! Rich and hedonistic are the hallmarks of this wine, yet Rob Griffin prices this

modestly. Light cherries, Boylan Sugar Cane Cola and green olives are met in the nostrils by barrel notes of light toast and coffee with chickory. Gobs and gobs of cherries and blackberries show up early on the flavorful palate where nice chocolate overtones — a testimony to barrel management — adds to the balance and the lengthy finish of light cherries and blackberries again. This earned a gold at the 2007 San Francisco Chronicle judging.

Basel Cellars Estate Winery 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 590 cases, $24

Excellent. Canoe Ridge fruit (68%) makes up

most of this blend — with the rest from DuBrul and Les Collines — as a result of the killing freeze in Walla Walla. Oak notes dominate the aromatics, along with green peppercorns, root beer, smoked meat and black cherries. On the palate, it’s food-friendly acidity, rather than tannin or barrel notes, that is the hallmark. Black cherries and pie cherries, dark chocolate and tobacco leaf are easily detected flavors.

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recent releases Claar Cellars 2003 White Bluffs Merlot Columbia Valley, 252 cases, $17

Excellent. Two years in French oak left a nice impression on this wine from Pasco, Wash. Other scents include pie cherries, Baker’s chocolate, cinnamon and Dr Pepper. There are a lot of entry points on the zesty attack with blackberries and cordial cherries. Pie cherries return on the midpalate with a zingy acidity, and some smoke shows in the finish. The tannins bring some grip, so enjoy this with some meat that would make a cardiologist cringe.

Columbia Crest 2003 Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, $30

Recommended. Only the top 10% of Columbia

Crest’s best vineyard sources from the Wahluke Slope, Cold Creek and Horse Heaven Hills contribute to the reserve program. The first impression starts with the results of 28 months in beautiful French oak, joined by black cherries and blackberries, vanilla and herbs. Inside is a delicious entry of red fruit, ample acidity and a build up of tannins — perhaps from the Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) that should pair well with a well-marbled T-bone.

prompted Marty Clubb to ask a big favor of Ste. Michelle, and it obliged with fruit from Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard. The blend also included Milbrandt, Willard, Wyckoff, Seven Hills, Weinbau, Goose Ridge and Candy Mountain, creating a wine that produces more enjoyment with each sip. Dark cherries, strawberries, green peppercorns, cedar and charred oak form the aromatics. Black currants tickle the tongue from start to finish, joined by stewed plums on the midpalate and tannins that should mellow with age. Or enjoy now with a marbled steak or roast.

Lone Canary 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 594 cases, $20

Excellent. Spokane vintner Mike Scott sourced from Willard (Yakima Valley), the Milbrandt Sundance (Wahluke Slope) and DuBrul (Yakima) for a rich but not opulent, and smooth but not flabby Merlot that incorporates Cab Franc (7%) and Cab (4%). Dark Bing cherries, currants, dried plums, bittersweet chocolate and black olives swirl over and inside.

Mount Baker Vineyards 2003 Reserve Merlot

Fielding Hills Winery

Yakima Valley, 191 cases, $24

2004 Merlot

Recommended. Here’s a lighter-style Merlot with

Wahluke Slope, 106 cases, $32

medium-roast coffee, toast, green olives, barnyard and cola aromas. Marionberries, bittersweet chocolate, bright acidity and a finish of slighty drying tannins will meet their match with juicy meats.

Outstanding! Estate grapes from RiverBend

Vineyard in Mattawa, Wash., helped Mike Wade develop a plush and opulent release, which incorporates Syrah (12%), Cab (11%) and Cab Franc (1%). Black cherries, vanilla, toast, red pepper flakes, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco fill the nose. On the rich palate are more black cherries and boysenberries, met midstream by bright acidity and chocolaty tannins. Sweet pipe tobacco and lush blackberry appear in the finish.

Frenchman Hills Winery 2005 Sentinel Gap Vineyards Merlot Columbia Valley, 110 cases, $50

Recommended. This new operation near Vantage,

Wash., came out with a food-friendly Merlot that’s big on raspberries. SweeTart candy, cherry pie, black raspberries, toasted oak, vanilla and pepper smack you in the nose, and you’ll soon be smacking your lips because of the black raspberries, red cherries and bright acidity that transcends the tannins.

Hogue Cellars 2003 Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,362 cases, $30

Recommended. Fruit from Fries Vineyard (80%)

on the Wahluke Slope and Red Mountain spent 25 months in mostly new French oak. That barrel heritage rolls up behind notes of black cherries, black currants and blackstrap molasses. On the tongue, there’s a nice delivery of the same amid a nicely balanced structure, then a send-off of some bittersweet chocolate.

WINE REVIEWS

table for black currants and more plums on the palate with solid acidity, slight tannins and a scrape of vanilla in the finish. He suggests drinking within two years and pairing with grilled meats and roasted vegetables, such as beets and red peppers.

Volcano Vineyards 2004 Aguila Vineyard Merlot Rogue Valley, 192 cases, $16

Excellent. Our first experience from this new win-

ery in Bend, Ore., is a smooth and tasty one. Aguila Vineyard (elevation 1,800 feet) near Medford allows for longer hangtime and the results feature aromas and flavors of dark berries, moist earth, espresso and 70% chocolate.

Syrah Basel Cellars 2004 Lewis Vineyard Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley, 92 cases, $60

Excellent. Trey Busch doesn’t shy away from

accenting his big reds with French oak, and this reserve from this Rattlesnake Ridge site is no exception. However, there are plenty of blueberries and black raspberries wafting among the leather, milk chocolate and green olive notes. Very ripe Bing cherries step up to the forefront in the mouth, joined by those black raspberries and a pleasing finish of chocolate and vanilla.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2004 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Merlot Rattlesnake Hills, 80 cases, $18

Recommended. Here’s an easy drinking Merlot

from this new appellation in the Yakima Valley. Plums, blue fruit, minced meat and chocolate make up the nose, followed by flavors of dried cherries and juicy table grapes rolled in sugar, tart raspberries with nutmeg and Earl Grey tea in the midpalate, and finished with pleasing oak.

RoxyAnn Winery 2004 Merlot Rogue Valley, 150 cases, $24

Excellent. Southern Oregon produces many head-turning reds, and Gus Janeway in Medford, Ore., is responsible for several of them. Estate fruit makes for nice vanilla oak spice aromatics, black cherries, blackberries, portabello mushrooms and shavings of bittersweet chocolate that lead into a mouthful of fresh cherries and blackberries. It gets dark and heavy on the midpalate, then finishes with Bosco chocolate. Try with grilled salmon served with a glaze of fresh orange juice and soy sauce.

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2004 Black Sage Vineyard Merlot Okanagan Valley, 350 cases, $19 CDN

L’Ecole No. 41 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 6,843 cases, $30

Excellent. The historic freeze in Walla Walla W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Recommended. Mark Wendenburg is a big hit at

winemaker dinners in part because his releases pair so easily with food, as does this. Plums, cedar, coffee bean and toasted oak set the S P R I N G 2 0 0 7 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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Columbia Crest

Frenchman Hills Winery

Koenig Vineyards

2004 Reseve Syrah

2005 Sentinel Gap Vineyards Syrah

2004 Three Rivers Cuvée Syrah

Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, $30

Columbia Valley, 224 cases, $70

Idaho, 310 cases, $20

Outstanding! Ray Einberger sources only the Horse Heaven Hills for this Côte-Rôtie style as he co-fermented the Syrah with whole berry Viognier (0.25%). Majestic are the results following 20 months in new French and American oak with black cherry, raspberry, lavender, green peppercorn and a hint of dark chocolate. The fruit is yummy on the entry with juicy and jammy plums that find favor with tamed tannins, enhanced by spicy notes.

Excellent. Larry Myrick and this new winery near

Recommended. Greg Koenig took fruit from

Vantage, Wash., came out of the chute with a succulent Syrah from its Tier I program that broadcasts whiffs of plums, black cherries, tomatoes, mince meat, prunes, cedar and toasted oak. On the palate, it is focused on fruit with nice plums, black cherries, blackberries and bright acidity. The tannins merely lurk in the shadows of this dark and juicy offering.

Albers, Bitner and next-door neighbor Williamson vineyards and made an oak-lovers Syrah. French oak, French roast coffee, cherries and black pepper lead into a well-balanced drink of Montmorency and Bing cherries, met by black currants and oak tones in the midpalate and cigar leaf tobacco in the finish.

Fielding Hills Winery

Horan Estate Winery

L’Ecole No. 41 2004 Syrah

2004 CWM Syrah

Columbia Valley, 2,649 cases, $25

2004 Syrah

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $28

Wahluke Slope, 176 cases, $32

Outstanding! The CWM stands for the late Corey

Excellent. The Wades rely on their estate

Wayne McDougall, and Wenatchee, Wash., winemaker Doug McDougall created quite a tribute to his son. The results open with aromatics of plums, a mocha espresso, cedar and cooked strawberry jam. On the juicy palate are pomegranates, sugared rhubarb and dark chocolate. They combine for a smoothness that broadens from middle to finish, thanks to Cab (9%).

Outstanding! Six sites — Milbrandt, Willard, Goose Ridge, Candy Mountain, Stone Tree and Bacchus — make for a wine that includes a splash of Grenache (2%) and produces an expression of grace. Whiffs of black cherry, leather, warm oak, nutmeg and black pepper set the table for a smooth mouthful of sweet boysenberries, juicy blueberries and espresso. It’s adroitly balanced with a pinch of nutmeg trailing in the finish.

RiverBend Vineyard, and results open with a nose of black cherry compote, vanilla and spicy American oak. It’s a smooth and lean style of Syrah with juicy black cherries, blueberries, charcoal, slate and vanilla flavors. A healthy dose of Cabernet Sauvignon (19%) shows on the finish that’s more powerful than plush.

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L’Ecole No. 41

NORTHWEST WINE REGIONS

2004 Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 517 cases, $37

Northwest wine regions The following are official viticultural regions in the Pacific Northwest.

Washington Columbia Valley: This multi-state appellation is 11 million acres in size and takes up a third of Washington. It encompasses the Yakima and Walla Walla valleys, Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills and Wahluke Slope. It was established in 1984. Yakima Valley: The Northwest’s oldest appellation (established in 1983) stretches from Wapato in the west to Benton City in the east and includes Red Mountain and Rattlesnake Hills. The Yakima Valley has about 11,000 acres of wine grapes. Walla Walla Valley: This multi-state appellation is in the southeast corner of Washington. The Walla Walla Valley is 300,000 acres in size with about 1,000 acres of wine grapes planted. It was established in 1984. Red Mountain: Washington’s smallest appellation is a ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley. It is 4,040 acres in size with about 700 acres of mostly red wine grapes planted. It was established in 2001. Horse Heaven Hills: This large appellation — 570,000 acres — is south of the Yakima Valley and stretches to the Oregon border. It has more than 6,000 acres of wine grapes planted. It was established in 2005. Wahluke Slope: Approved in early 2006, this huge landform north of the Yakima Valley is an 81,000-acre gravel bar created by the Ice Age Floods. More than 5,000 acres are planted in this AVA, which is one of the warmest regions in the entire Pacific Northwest. It was established in 2006. Rattlesnake Hills: Washington’s newest appellation is in the western Yakima Valley north of the towns of Zillah, Granger and Outlook.The appellation is 68,500 acres in size with about 1,300 acres of vineyards. It was established in 2006. Puget Sound: This sprawling appellation is in Western Washington. It stretches from the Olympia area to the Canadian border north of Bellingham. It also sweeps through the San Juan Islands and to Port Angeles. Fewer than 100 acres of wine grapes are planted. It was established in 1995. Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation begins around the town of Lyle and heads west to Husum on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It was established in 2004.

Oregon Willamette Valley: Oregon’s largest appellation stretches roughly from Portland to Eugene. It was established in 1984. Ribbon Ridge: This is the Northwest’ smallest appellation at 3,350 acres. It is best known for its Pinot Noir and is within the Chehalem Mountains AVA. It was established in 2005. Yamhill-Carlton District: This appellation has more than 650 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir. It is a horseshoe-shaped appellation that surrounds the towns of Yamhill and Carlton. It was established in 2005. Chehalem Mountains: The most recently approved Oregon AVA also is the largest within the Willamette Valley. This 62,100-acre appellation is northeast of the Dundee Hills. It was established in 2006. Dundee Hills: Many of Oregon’s pioneer wineries are in the Dundee Hills in Oregon’s Yamhill County. The appellation is 6,490 acres in size with nearly 1,300 acres of planted vineyards. It was established in 2005. Eola-Amity Hills: This important region stretches from the town of Amity in the north to the capital city of Salem in the southeast. It is 37,900 acres in size and has 1,300 acres planted. It was established in 2006. McMinnville: The hills south and west of the Yamhill County city of McMinnville is more than 40,000 acres in size and contains about 600 acres of wine grape vineyards. It was established in 2005. Umpqua Valley: This Southern Oregon appellation surrounds the city of Roseburg north of the Rogue Valley. It can produce Pinot Noir as well as warm-climate grapes. It was established in 1984. Rogue Valley: The Northwest’s southern-most appellation surrounds the cities of Medford and Ashland, just north of the California border. It is known for its warm growing conditions. It was established in 2001. Applegate Valley: This small valley within the Rogue Valley is known for a multitude of microclimates that can result in wines of distinction and complexity. It was established in 2004. Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation is around and south of the city of Hood River. It was established in 2004. Southern Oregon: This large AVA encompasses the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys and Red Hill Douglas County appellations. It was established in 2005. Red Hill Douglas County: This tiny appellation — just 5,500 acres — is within the Umpqua Valley. Fewer than 200 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir, are grown here. It was established in 2005.

Outstanding! The killing freeze of 2004 wiped out nearly 80% of the vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, but this aged and famed site weathered the storm. Aromatics are of blackberries, black currans, plums, thyme, sage, mint and espresso. Those espresso notes join black cherries and delicious tart blackberry flavors. That fruit and acidity carries midpalate tannins toward a smooth finish of Baker’s chocolate, anise and more black fruit.

MarshAnne Landing 2004 Syrah Umpqua Valley, 198 cases, $22

Recommended. Estate fruit from the northern

Umpqua produces a food-friendly wine that’s northern Rhône in style. Cherries, red bell pepper, fresh-cut hay, cedar sage and a hint of milk chocolate lure you in to find more of the same on the palate with nice acidity and low tannins that won’t dominate food.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2004 Gilbert Vineyards Syrah Columbia Valley, 70 cases, $24

Excellent. Larry Lindvig lives in Carnation, Wash.,

near Everett, but he ventures throughout the Northwest for grapes to bring back to his boutique winery. This succulent, straight-forward Syrah is based around blue fruit, with fresh-cut hay, Dr Pepper and some orange in the background of the aromas. Find plums and juicy blueberry acidity on the attack, followed by cordial cherry creaminess and a touch of ginger in the finish.

RoxyAnn Winery 2004 Syrah Rogue Valley, 150 cases, $30

Outstanding! Southern Oregon produces some of the Northwest’s sensational Syrahs. Gus Janeway made this rich, but not over the top, kick-starting with sweet oak and brambleberries in the nose. Boysenberries, marionberries and blackberries create a juicy, jammy and elegant mouth feel that’s nicely balanced and fruitfocused to the finish.

Windy Point Vineyards 2004 Syrah Yakima Valley, 550 cases, $20

Excellent. The state’s first plantings of this

British Columbia Okanagan Valley: In the province’s interior, this 100-mile valley stretches from the border in Osoyoos to Salmon Arm in the north. Most wineries are near Oliver, Penticton and Kelowna. Spelling note: In Washington, the county, river and city are spelled “Okanogan.” It was established in 1990. Similkameen Valley: This warm valley is west of the southern Okanagan Valley. It was established in 1990. Vancouver Island: This marine-influenced appellation is in the southwest part of the province. It was established in 1990. Fraser Valley: This farming area is in the Lower Mainland, south of Vancouver. It was established in 1990. Gulf Islands: This appellation, the province’s newest, includes approximately 100 islands spread out between Vancouver Island and the southern mainland. It was established in 2005.

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Idaho Idaho: The Northwest’s smallest wine-producing region does not yet have an appellation, so Idaho-originated wines use the state name.

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Rhône variety in the Yakima Valley, and this Wapato, Wash., winery has done well with this oak-influenced Syrah that starts with blueberries, bell pepper, chocolate, black pepper and charcoal notes. Juicy blueberries and blackberries make for a plush and pleasing structure that’s nearly absent of tannin. Dried cherry acidity and flinty minerality in the midpalate accent the oak influence that shows with caramel in the finish. And a screwcap means this wine is easy to get at.

Woodinville Wine Cellars 2003 Syrah Washington, 325 cases, $28

Outstanding! This new boutique winery took fruit

from up-and-coming Stillwater Creek Vineyard, just north of Washington’s Wahluke Slope, and the results were royal. Pleasing oak toast accents aromas of currants, black cherries, black walnuts, black pepper and vanilla. It’s a rich and busty drink with a bold entry of dark fruit. Chocolate notes wipe smooth the tannins. It’s long gone from the winery, but search and you could be rewarded.

Cabernet Franc Colvin Vineyards 2004 Chelle den Pleasant Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $24

Outstanding! This vineyard in Prosser, Wash., is

known as perhaps the top Cabernet Franc site in the Northwest, and Mark Colvin does the fruit proud. It’s very mellow with aromas of high-end pipe tobacco, blackberries and pencil shavings. And it’s very mellow and smooth in the mouth with more blackberries and black currants. Lush chocolate notes run from start to finish.

Whidbey Island Winery

and black Cab Franc. Blackberries, black cherries and American oak-inspired black walnut fills the nose. There’s a reward of rich black fruit on the palate with some mince meat amid the nice tannin structure, followed by some pencil shavings in the finish.

Malbec 2004 Malbec Southern Oregon, 212 cases, $23

Outstanding! Earl Jones was an early proponent

in the Northwest of bottling this classic Bordeaux blender on its own merit. He and winemaker Kiley Evans did their best with a beautiful but small crop of Malbec, accenting it with Cab (15%) and Cab Franc (10%). Aromatics of pie cherries, pipe tobacco, pomegranate, milk chocolate and spice lead you into a nice entry of black cherries with a blackberry jammy juiciness on the midpalate. Well-managed tannins make it easy to enjoy, carrying into red licorice on the finish.

Recommended. Here’s a big, brooding Malbec

that’s rich and heavy with molasses, Belgian chocolate, coffee, green peppercorns and slate notes. Enjoy with a marbled steak or a tri tip.

Other reds Wheatridge in the Nook 2005 Barbera Columbia Valley, 50 cases, $25

Recommended. Wheat rancher-turned-winemaker

Larry Bartlemay has transformed grassland near Arlington, Ore., into vineyard. This Italian variety has found some success downriver in the Columbia Gorge, and here’s another example that opens with strawberries, raspberries, a sniff of cardamom and earthiness. Dark, bold flavors are joined by Cherries Jubilee and the bright acidity associated with this grape.

Tagaris Wines 2005 Alice Vineyard Counoise

2003 Malbec

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $26

Columbia Valley, 180 cases, $28

Outstanding! Frank Roth recently took over at this Richland, Wash., winery, and he’s displaying some of the knowledge he gained while working several years next door at Barnard Griffin. Entincing bright cherries and strawberry aromas are met by subdued oak. Sublime and smooth best describes a palate focused on cherries and brambleberries with a hint of sage in the background and a finish of cherry jam.

Excellent. Off the family’s estate Wahluke

Slope Vineyard comes this Spokane winery’s first Malbec, and this is not for the faint of heart. Notes of black currants, pomegranate, orange peel, tobacco leaf, peppermint, allspice and slate are detected on the first pass. Black currants are joined by sweetened plums on the palate to form a rich mouth feel that’s held firm by nice acidity and gripping tannins. That abundance of acidity should serve this wine nicely through 2012, and enjoy it with richly flavored meats such as lamb, venison or an old-fashioned burger.

Fidélitas Wines 2004 Malbec

Recommended. Quite true to the variety, this

Columbia Valley, 110 cases, $35

opens with rich dark fruit and tobacco leaf notes among subtle oak notes. The entry of red fruit is very richly structured, quickly joined by juicy, food-friendly acidity in such a way that the tannins don’t stick out. It finishes with a tasty dollop of prune whip.

Outstanding! Charlie Hoppes’ fascination with this Bordeaux variety — he refers to it as his “new passion” — comes to life in grand style. The nose is an exotic blend of plums, black cherry compote, chalk, earth, anise and roasted red peppers. Inside is a luxurious mouth feel of more plums and black cherries with pie cherry acidity. The artistic influence of French oak shows in the cocoa finish.

Yakima Valley, 141 cases, $29

Idaho, 80 cases, $18

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars

Yakima Valley, 100 cases, $19

2004 Reserve Cabernet Franc

2004 Malbec

Abacela Vineyards & Winery

2004 Cabernet Franc

Windy Point Vineyards

Snake River Winery

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2004 Petite Sirah Columbia Valley, 80 cases, $28

Outstanding! Estate fruit off Wahluke Slope Vineyard gets the heat necessary to produce the power associated with this grape that is gaining a following in Washington, thanks to efforts such as this initial offering from Kristina Mielke van Loben Sels. Aromas of black raspberries, black currants, quality bittersweet chocolate and rosemary swirl off the top. More black fruit inside — blackberries, pomegranates and plums — is met by Green & Black’s chocolate to produce a jammy yet bright and incredibly balanced drink that finishes with a hint of molasses. If you are new to this grape, this is a very inviting example that can be enjoyed with duck breast or turkey.

Recommended. A life of 21 months in barrel is

Kennedy Shah

evident, but there’s plenty of expression from behind the oak curtain with hints of baked berries, orange peel, tea, moist earth and red peppercorns. Cherry cola, red currants and bittersweet chocolate greet you on the palate, then in the midpalate there’s a pop of dark fruit, then cocoa powder that’s akin to a chocolate bundt cake. It comes in a screwcap.

2003 Malbec

Pleasant Hill Winery

Columbia Valley, 420 cases, $24

2004 Reserve Petit Verdot

Outstanding! Tom Campbell of Woodhouse

Columbia Valley, 40 cases, $29

Family Cellars in Woodinville, Wash., captured so much in the way of brambleberries that this blend with Merlot (15%) is reminiscent of a berry milk shake at Dairy Queen. Toss in milk chocolate, oak, celery seed and black pepper, and you begin to describe the rest of the aromatics — partly influenced by French, Hungarian and Italian oak. When it comes to the flavors, “super size me” as it’s more of the same with blueberries and plush blackberries with pleasing balance that’s a bit chewy on the finish. And there’s enough black pepper to make you sneeze.

Excellent. There are only handful of wineries in

Zerba Cellars 2004 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $28

Recommended. This winery in Milton-Freewater,

Ore., reaches into Prosser’s Pleasant and Willard vineyards for fruit that produced a big

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the Northwest doing this traditional blender as a single-variety release, and Boeing Wine Club grad Larry Lindvig doesn’t shy away from breaking new ground. Here’s an excellent example, starting with big whiffs of blueberries, cocoa powder and black pepper. There’s pleasing richness on the entry of blue fruit, joined by red currants and tart cranberries. Bittersweet chocolate on the smooth midpalate gives way to tannins that are slighty gritty on the finish, but there’s solid acidity so this should be even better in a couple of years. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Tamarack Cellars 2004 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 198 cases, $25

Recommended. Ron Coleman took fruit from

Candy Mountain near Red Mountain, returned to Walla Walla, and fashioned a red robust enough for stroganoff or beef stew. There’s a bouquet of charred oak and Baker’s chocolate. Tilt the glass for ripe, dark blackberries and plums, joined by sturdy tannins, black pepper, nice bittersweet chocolate in the midpalate and Vanilla Coke in the finish.

Zerba Cellars 2004 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 133 cases, $28

Excellent. Cecil Zerba adroitly preserves the

lighter-fruit, great-acidity features of this Italian variety from Willard Farms in Prosser, Wash. Strawberries, Rainier cherries, cola and elegant oak aromas of milk chocolate lead into delicious flavors of strawberries, a bit of cranberries and milk chocolate, which are met by subtle tannins.

Thurston Wolfe 2004 Howling Wolfe Zephyr Ridge Zinfandel Washington, 390 cases, $18

Outstanding! The previous vintage of this wine earned a double gold at the Grand Harvest Awards, and Wade Wolfe looks to have another winner this year. This marks the fifth vintage off this Horse Heaven Hills site, and it opens with

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berries, cassis, allspice, white pepper, tobacco and toasted oak. More berries and cassis spill across the tongue with a midpalate of sweet chocolate, supple tannins and tons of acidity. All that, combined with a finish of dark chocolate, will marry with rich meats, such as lamb or prime rib.

Whites

WINE REVIEWS

Chardonnay that relied on thrice-used French oak to provide an almost neutral palatte to work with. Aromatics of peaches, apples and tangerines are joined by intriguing minerality and wet stones. Ripe pears and oranges make for an easy approach that’s mouthfilling with pleasing acidity and just a hint of butterscotch in the finish.

Claar Cellars 2005 White Bluffs Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 268 cases, $12

Excellent. Estate fruit from the scenic bluffs near

Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2005 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, 450 cases, $19

Recommended. Sixty percent of this bottling was

barrel-fermented six months in French oak, which shows in the nose of butterscotch and candy corn, but there’s also dried appricot, apples and lemon pepper. The oak isn’t as prevalent in the flavors as it’s more pineapple, pear, apricot and apple. Clarified butter in the midpalate refers to the malolactic fermentation, but there’s bright acidity and some Bit-O-Honey candy in the finish. Enjoy with fettucini Alfredo or chicken baked with herbs.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2005 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 192 cases, $18

Excellent. Michael Sebastiani reached into

Graves and McDuffie vineyards for a delicious

the Hanford Reach delivers a nose of Creme Brulée, bananas, pineapples, sour apples, Juicy Fruit gum, strawberries with light oak in the background. Dried and sugared Granny Smith apples, Mountain Dew and nice citrus notes dominate the flavors with juicy acidity that lasts.

Columbia Crest 2004 Reserve Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills, 500 cases, $30

Outstanding! Hand-picked estate grapes handstirred in 100% new Burgundian barrels begins to tell the story behind this Chardonnay that is among the Northwest’s best and most expensive. Dried pineapple, banana taffy and citrus form the aromatic base. Mix in big butterscotch, fresh toast and orange peel to build on the descriptors for the palate, which turns creamy in the middle. This is about as hedonistic as Chardonnay gets, so enjoy as a cocktail.

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Domaine Drouhin

Phelps Creek Winery

2005 Arthur Chardonnay

2004 Chardonnay

Dundee Hills, 2,250 cases, $32

Columbia Gorge, 178 cases, $17

Recommended. Named after the winemaker’s son,

Outstanding! Peter Rosback produced a stunning wine from this Hood River, Ore., estate site, opening with Rainier cherries, sweetened lemons, bananas, candy corn, verbena and smoke aromas. Delicious sweet fruit such as papaya and starfruit gets a spotlight from nice, brisk acidity. A touch of bitterness beyond the midpalate gives way to a finish of soft, oily almonds.

the hallmark of this release is a wealth of crisp acidity. The bouquet shows gooseberries, tropical fruit, pleasing French oak and garden-fresh green beans. Pears, peaches, green apples and lemon zest dominate the flavors with subtle oak in the background. It’s a great food wine, and Veronique Drouhin believes it will continue to show nicely for 5-7 years. This wine is sold out at the winery, however it is available at wine shops.

2005 Unoaked Chardonnay

Dusted Valley Vintners

Columbia Gorge, 126 cases, $15

2005 Birch Creek Chardonnay

Excellent. Estate fruit, which is guarded by a

Walla Walla Valley, 400 cases, $28

screwcap, is showcased in this stainless steel fermented Chardonnay. Pineapple tickles your nose, along with Fuji apples and popcorn aromas. It’s more of the same pineapple and apple in the flavors, along with some tropical fruit, butter and banana. A nice crispness accents the fruit, which includes a little browned apple in the finish.

Recommended. It’s 100% French oak, but

because the barrels were 4-5 years of age, the wood doesn’t get in the way. The nose features dried mangoes, gooseberries, starfruit, bananas, marshmallows and toast. A honeyed entry awaits with tropical flavors in the mouthcoating palate before acidity arrives in the finish.

Hogue Cellars 2004 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,004 cases, $22

Recommended. To qualify as a “reserve” in

Washington the bottling must be 10% or less of a winery’s regular production for that wine. For Chardonnay, it typically means extended barrel life, and this fruit from Sunnyside Vineyard spent 14 months in mostly new French oak. That extended barrel treatment — including sur lie aging — permeates this wine. Apricot, honeycomb, canned corn, pineapple and nice butterscotch notes are met with enough balance to pair with grilled white fish and perhaps crabcakes.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 3,816 cases, $20

Excellent. Marty Clubb crafts a delicious, straight-

forward Chardonnay in which sweet French oak serves as an entincing accent with fruit from Fair Acre and Evergreen vineyards. The nose includes essences of 7Up, green bananas, pineapples, sandalwood and lemongrass. On the palate, it’s pears along with a pleasing midpalate of passionfruit and guava, framed by ample acidity. The oak adds a nuttiness on the finish.

Mount Baker Vineyards 2005 Barrel Select Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 527 cases, $13

Outstanding! Randy Bonaventura earns our top rating for the second straight vintage with this Burgundian grape. The varied nose includes nice minerality, lemon, peaches, pears, tangerines, pineapples, limes, sage and a whiff of petrol. Flavors of blood oranges, tangerines, apples and pears sift out across a nice, creamy midpalate, and there’s food-friendly acidity followed by citrus pith tartness. This should pair nicely with pasta primavera, baked chicken or Mediterranean cod.

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Snake River Winery 2004 Arena Valley Vineyard Chardonnay Idaho, 390 cases, $11

Excellent. Scott DeSeelhorst and his remarkable

stadium-shaped vineyard combined for a versatile Chardonnay with broad food applications. Inviting apple, pineapple and citrus aromas are joined by verbena and a light background of oak. Inside, it’s rich and buttery with more tropical flavors and butterscotch candy in the finish. Good crispness makes it a really enjoyable cocktail wine as well as a fit for creamy dishes.

Sparkman Cellars 2005 Lumiere Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 93 cases, $35

Outstanding! State law prohibits Christian Sparkman from offering his wine at the Waterfront Seafood Grill, the upscale Seattle restaurant he manages, but you are welcome to visit his new Woodinville winery and taste this Stillwater Creek release. It’s got lots of oak but lots of merit as a cocktail Chardonnay with beautiful Golden Delicious and Jonagold apples, butter and pineapple that’s framed with a nice bit of acidity. Try with seared scallops or fresh-cracked Dungeness crab.

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2005 Black Sage Vineyard Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 1,000 cases, $19 CDN

Recommended. One of Canada’s most famous

vineyards makes for a stylish Chardonnay that opens with canned peaches, pineapples, Froot Loops, dried cantaloupe and almonds. Those peaches return as flavors, and there’s a nice honeyed feel to the palate.

Three Rivers Winery 2005 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 796 cases, $19

Excellent. Holly Turner sourced from Bacchus,

Sundance and Weinbau to help produce a wellstructured Chardonnay that balances oak and fruit. French oak embraces apples, pineapples and banana outside and inside. There’s also W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Willamette Valley Vineyards 2004 Dijon Clone Chardonnay Oregon, 1,816 cases, $17

Recommended. From a challenging vintage has

emerged a delicious, slightly off-dry Chardonnay with crowd appeal and an accompaniment to spicy Asian cuisine. Apple, orange peel and oak spice dominate the nose. Inside, it’s a softer style in the mouth with a clean attack of apple pie, apple sauce, lemon zest, butterscotch and a touch of bitterness.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2003 Estate Dijon Clones Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 250 cases, $20

Recommended. This vintage marked the 20th

anniversary of winery founder Jim Bernau’s estate vineyard south of Salem, Ore. The clones 76, 96 and Espiguette (352) produced aromatics of apple sauce, carmel, toast, feta cheese and bacon fat. It’s silky smooth in the mouth with oranges, apple pie with vanilla ice cream, ample acidity and nutty oak. A bit of residual sugar (0.3%) is an accent to this really fat Chardonnay that finishes with lanolin. It’s wonderful conversation piece in its current state, and one that could well lend itself to a steak.

Wheatridge in the Nook 2005 Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley, 50 cases, $12

Recommended. This variety can be done in dry to sweet. A new producer from the east end of the Columbia Gorge made this off-dry, opening with complexity of peppermint, butter, orange peel and lavender aromatics. The smooth entry is one of juicy sweet apricots, then some canned corn in the midpalate that turns a bit dry in the finish.

Gewürztraminer Canoe Ridge Vineyard Oak Ridge Vineyard Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 350 cases, $15

Excellent. This Walla Walla winery goes down

stream from its estate vineyard to above the White Salmon River for Gewürz that is gaining acclaim. Apple, tropical fruits and bottled lemon juice fill the nose. The palate is dominated by more lemon and grapefruit notes that carried this well-balanced wine through to the end. Enjoy with spicy cuisine such as Indian, Mexican or Thai.

Columbia Winery 2005 Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 14,500 cases, $12

Excellent. This legendary winery has a history of

success with this variety, and here’s another winner that starts with a rush of honeysuckle, facial powder, apples, orange marmalade, rose-

WINE REVIEWS

water and lychee. Inside is a medley of Fuji and Honeycrisp apples with enough acidity to balance the residual sugar (2.6%) and a significant finish with Elberta canned peaches. Enjoy with Asian food, bratwurst or at brunch.

Icicle Ridge Winery 2005 Three Blondes Gewürztraminer Washington, 400 cases, $22

Outstanding! Don Wood draws upon some inspiration from a trio of blondes for this German beauty out of Peshastin, Wash., and there’s an alluring fragrance of white floral and orange blossoms with a touch of grapefruit spice. Luscious flavors of orange, grapefruit and cloves flow in for an intensely fruity finish. A touch of sweetness makes this a great cocktail wine or a worthy pairing with spicy foods.

Pinot Gris Columbia Crest 2005 Grand Estates Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $11

Excellent. Other wineries have changed the name

of their wine from Pinot Gris to Pinot Grigio and seen sales skyrocketed. This wine — a fresh addition to the Grand Estates program — merits similar success. Starfruit, pineapple, citrus, gooseberry, facial powder and peach fuzz form some of the aromatics. Citrus, orchard fruit and cane sugar flavors are hit with a good dose of acidity making for a clean, crisp and delicious drink.

Zerba Cellars 2005 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 181 cases, $18

Recommended. Oak, lemon lime, and some cos-

metic hand soap aromas transcend into flavors of inviting lemons with pineapple. It’s a bit tart on the entry, but there is enough acidity to make this a proper match with seafoods such as cod and lemon capers.

Chenin Blanc Cedergreen Cellars 2005 Old Vine Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley, 40 cases, $17

Recommended. Kevin Cedergreen is based in

Kirkland, Wash., but bottles his wines in Prosser, not far from Willard Farms Vineyard. Aromatics of dried papaya, candy corn, pears, apples and ginger lead you into thinking of an off-dry white. Rather, it’s shockingly dry with nice crispness of pears and lemons, the latter a glimpse of the Semillon (10%). Enjoy with blackened grilled shrimp or kielbasa.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 “Walla Voila” Chenin Blanc Washington, 1,624 cases, $13

Recommended. Founding winemaker Jean

Ferguson created the template for this Vouvraystyle white in 1987, and the vineyard source — Willard Farms in Prosser — dates to 1979. It’s citrus, apple and vanilla in the nose, then lively and fun in the mouth with the immediate impact of Granny Smith apples, followed by lemon/lime Gatorade and a squirt of red grapefruit in the finish. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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La Dolce Vita Vineyards 2005 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 350 cases, $14

Recommended. The Freemans got started plant-

ing their vineyards with this grape in 1994, and they believe in stainless-steel fermentation. It shows with hints of apples and toasted bread that lead into flavors of more apples, along with some nice citrus and just a touch of tropical fruit.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2005 Reserve Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 254 cases, $21

Excellent. Four vineyards — Logsdon Ridge,

Chehalem Mountain, Stone Ridge and Olson — factor into this mouth-watering bottling. Tart starfruit, gooseberry and grapefruit are joined in the nose by Granny Smith apples and marshmallow. Those apples drop on the tongue along with juicy acidity of yellow grapefruit and Asian pears. A bit of butter and oak from sur lie aging makes a strong case for pairing with sautéed scallops, mussels or Dungeness crabcakes.

Riesling Columbia Crest 2005 Grand Estates Riesling Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $11

Outstanding! Harvest of this fruit began Aug. 15, the earliest on record, but the results were right on time. It’s reminiscent of Bubble Up with tangerine citrus, but much more complex in tropical fruit, bananas, apples and delicious spice. The residual sugar (2.5%) is nicely balanced on the bright midpalate with acidity. Enjoy as a cocktail, alongside a lettuce salad — incorporating grilled pears, Gorgonzola, toasted pine nuts with a light fruit vinaigrette — or a pork entrée with sautéed apples and onions.

Hudson Shah 2005 Riesling Rattlesnake Hills, 200 cases, $22

Recommended. There are traditional petrol/diesel

notes, but also apricot, blood orange and walnut aromatics. The flavors are more of the orchard fruit, predominantly refreshing apricots and pears up-front with enticing acidity. Its offdry style will mean enjoyment with lively Asian food.

Viognier Mount Baker Vineyards 2005 Reserve Viognier Yakima Valley, 203 cases, $20

Outstanding! There’s a remarkable amount of acidity wrapped up in this Viognier from Randy Bonaventura, so it strikes a delicious balance to go with the juicy apple notes that hang there for the picking. Cinnamon, river rock, minerality and Juicy Fruit gum aromas join the orchard tones. Gorgeous flavors of citrus and Apple Crisp make this a particularly rich and appealing alternative to Chardonnay.

RoxyAnn Winery 2005 Viognier Rogue Valley, 250 cases, $20

Recommended. The winery is in the middle of a

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huge orchard in Medford, Ore., and there’s lots of that in this Rhône release. Citrus, pineapple and a hint of petrol are among the aromatics. Pear and apple flavors dominate the entry with a pleasing and food-friendly tart finish.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Semillon Columbia Valley, 4,047 cases, $15

Excellent. Marty Clubb makes this in a reserve

Recommended. Elephant Mountain provides the fruit for this Rhône white that spent seven months in neutral French oak. That wood doesn’t show in aromas, which are of orange candy and fresh hay. The sur lie aging adds butteriness that follows the fresh-cut apple flavors.

style while still on a large scale, tapping into many of the state’s famed sites — Klipsun, Rosebud, Double River Ranch, Seven Hills, Phil Church, Stillwater and Les Collines. This edition — which includes Sauvignon Blanc (14%) opens with dried pineapple, cotton candy, oak and tropical aromas. Going in, it is focused on tropical fruit and grapefruit, a touch of butter, with big juiciness and orange pith bitterness on the finish. Suggested foods include appetizers with goat cheese, Cajun or Thanksgiving fare.

Saviah Cellars

Zerba Cellars

2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier

2005 Semillon

Columbia Valley, 190 cases, $25

Columbia Valley, 78 cases, $18

Excellent. Richard Funk’s clonal selection of

Recommended. This Milton-Freewater, Ore., win-

Saviah Cellars 2005 Viognier Columbia Valley, 194 cases, $25

Dijon 75 at this scenic site overlooking Royal City, Wash., produced a delicious alternative to Chardonnay. Candy corn, French oak spice, gardenia, river rock, pineapple and other tropical fruits fill the nose. The flavors are very bright with more pineapple and tropical fruit, joined by Key lime. You will notice some minerality on the midpalate influenced by sur lie aging. Good acidity and bitterness will pair nicely with barbecued oysters.

ery released a fruit-forward Semillon from Double River Ranch in the Walla Walla Valley. In fact, it’s quite like ambrosia fruit salad in the nose with marshmallow, banana, a whiff of American oak and the varietal marker of fig. Pineapples, apples, pear stand above the oak, joined by nice acidity and a finish of slightly underipe pineapple and butterscotch.

Zerba Cellars

Three Rivers Winery

2005 Viognier

2005 White Meritage

Columbia Valley, 169 cases, $18

Columbia Valley, 570 cases, $19

Recommended. It was one-stop shopping at

Recommended. Holly Turner’s white Bordeaux

Willard Farms in Prosser, Wash., and this non-blended Rhône release from MiltonFreewater, Ore., is loaded with limelike acidity to make it a compadre for Mexican cuisine that features the green-skinned fruit. Aromatics include pear, chai tea, lemon zest, banana chips and butterscotch. Pears and citrus, along with a creamy midpalate, create long flavors that give way to pear-skin bitterness and lime. Zesty fare also will stand up to the flash of heat in the finish.

Other whites Mount Baker Vineyards 2004 Madeleine Angevine Puget Sound, 145 cases, $12

Recommended. A French table grape made popular by winemakers in England, this Northwest expression features aromas of diesel, petrol and lychee. There’s a nice tropical sweet entry with pineapple and lychee flavors, a piece of flint and dose of acidity in the midpalate, then an intriguing finish of SweeTart and aspertame.

Columbia Crest 2005 Grand Estates Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $11

Recommended. A beguiling nose begins with

gooseberries, lemon lime, river rock, juniper, Scotch tape, grapefruit and grassy notes. Pears and grapefruit dominate the flavors, and there’s a good dose of yellow grapefruit acidity in the finish.

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White blends

blend of Sauvignon Blanc (72%) and Semillon hails from the Milbrandt Evergreen Vineyard near Quincy, Wash., and famed Klipsun Vineyard on Red Mountain. French oak influence shows in the nose and the palate, along with tropical fruit, lemon/lime and butterscotch, then vanilla in the finish.

Zerba Cellars 2005 Wild White Columbia Valley, 381 cases, $16

Excellent. Self-made winemaker Cecil Zerba

could almost call this label a Chardonnay (66%), but he infused it with Viognier (22%), Roussanne (6%) and Semillon (5%). The fig notes of the Semillon show in the nose, joined by lemon, banana, Creme Brulée topping, oak and a sense of dustiness. Its juicy entry of grapefruit and lemon, along with banana and good acidity, and influence of American oak should find a wide following.

Rosés Claar Cellars 2005 Busty Blush Columbia Valley, 415 cases, $13

Recommended. From the White Bluffs overlooking

the Columbia River comes a Sangiovese rosé that this winery north of Pasco, Wash., uses for the third straight year as a fund-raiser for the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. Strawberry jam, orange blossoms, cantaloupe, vanilla and toasted oak tickle the nose. Strawberry jam returns on the palate with some refreshing citrusy acidity and a touch of spritz. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding or Recommended wines that retail at $10 ($12 Canadian) and under.

Camas Prairie Winery 2005 White Riesling Washington, 193 cases, $10

Excellent. Stuart Scott trucked these grapes

from Wyckoff Farms in Grandview, Wash., back to the Idaho Palouse, and the wine jumps right out at you. Granny Smith and Fuji apple notes blend with pears, lavendar, cotton candy and tangerine aromatics. Passionfruit, sweetened grapefruit and tropical flavors are met by huge acidity and a twist of lemon zest in the finish.

Columbia Crest 2005 Two Vines Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 30,000 cases, $8

Excellent. At this price and quality, Ray

Einberger is helping to raise the awareness for this versatile Germanic white. And the pineapple juice, cantaloupe, apple box, honeysuckle and peach orchard aromas don’t

disappoint. Peach and apples make for an easy and juicy entry, and the acidity and pith from Ruby Red grapefruit shows up toward the finish to broaden the palate and balance the residual sugar (3.2%).

Columbia Winery 2005 Cellarmaster’s Riesling Columbia Valley, 88,000 cases, $10

Outstanding! Some of the Northwest’s best-selling wines came about by accident, including this one. A failed fermenter left a batch of Riesling at 6% residual sugar, and famed vintner David Lake liked the results. He’s followed that formula for years, and this is annually one of our favorites. Exotic aromatics of candied apricots, rosewater, Pink Lady apples, fresh walnuts and grapefruit tantalize you. More apricots, Bosc pears, pineapple and apple fill your mouth with a splash of Mountain Dew acidity. Enjoy with a fruit and

cheese plate that includes Cougar Gold.

Covey Run Winery 2005 Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 18,000 cases, $8

Outstanding! Kerry Norton ranks as one of the Northwest’s top winemakers in regards to quantity, quality and value. He splashed in Muscat Canelli (3%), and the results are remarkable with lychee, apples, cinnamon, pears, clean linen, bananas, Juicy Fruit and freshly toasted bread. Expect big apple and pear flavors with spritely acidity that balances the residual sugar (2%) and carries all the way. Norton suggests drinking this now, and he shouldn’t need to twist any arms.

Hogue Cellars 2004 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 46,296 cases, $10

Excellent. The killer freeze of January 2004

Slightly underripe apricot and light crispness adds to the length.

(27%) as the cane syrup is back for the finish.

Sawtooth Winery

Icicle Ridge Winery

Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards

Idaho, 400 cases, $15

2005 White Merlot

2005 See Ya Later Ranch Ehrenfelser Ice Wine

Washington, 150 cases, $45

Okanagan Valley, 300 cases, $30 CDN

Recommended. On first glance, you might think this was a Pinot Noir, and on first sniff it’s an pleasing combination of strawberries and cherry tobacco. Reminiscent of off-dry rosé, there are examples of Dr Pepper, dried cherries and filberts. Ample acidity resides in the midpalate. Have some fun and serve this in a black glass.

Excellent. This prized wine, which helps pay trib-

Dessert wine

ute to the dog cemetery on the estate, features a beautiful nose of poached apple compote, cloves, allspice and cane sugar. Candied orange slices and rounded flavors of poached peach and pineapple are balanced by pleasing acidity.

King Estate Winery

2003 Reserve Late Harvest White Dessert Excellent. This unusual blend of estate

Sauvignon Blanc (63%) and Semillon (6%), both botrytis-affected, is accented by Muscat Blanc (31%) to create a different and desirable sipper. Glaceéd apricots, golden raisins, dried pineapple, orchard fruit, honey, cloves and notes of wasabi and pickled ginger surround this barrel-aged sweetie (15% residual sugar). It’s a bit soft but a real crowd pleaser that finishes with dates. Try with sushi.

Sparkling wine

2005 Signature Edition Pinot Gris Vin Glacé

Ste. Chapelle

Oregon, 2,176 cases, $19

Kramer Vineyards

2005 Cabernet Franc Reserve Ice Wine

Outstanding! A late-harvest or dessert wine

NV Cuvée Rosé Semi-Sparkling Wine

Idaho, 300 cases, $21

Oregon, 60 cases, $12

Excellent. Chuck Devlin decided to try making ice wine from Cabernet Franc, and his first swing with this Bordeaux red goes for extra bases. Skyline Vineyard helped produce a delicious dessert wine with notes of cordial cherries, a pinch of strawberries, rose hips, plums, carmelized sugar and Graham Cracker. Flavors focus on President plums packed in heavy syrup, strawberry jam and cranberries. Its residual sugar is 16.5%, but the natural acidity contained in Idaho fruit keeps it from being cloying.

should be lip-smacking good, and this product from organic estate vineyards near Eugene delivers in charming fashion. Honey, apricots, cloves and golden raisin notes transition into a clean, luscious nectar of apples, more apricots, raisins and pears. Its honeyed syrup quality of apricot, cloves, golden raisins and oranges makes this as good as late harvest gets. And the wealthy of acidity would lead you to believe the residual sugar is half of what it actually is (16%).

Covey Run Winery

Tualatin Estate

2005 Reserve Semillon Ice Wine

2005 Semi-Sparkling Muscat Frizzante

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery

Yakima Valley, 920 cases, $22

Willamette Valley, 1,028 cases, $16

2005 Gewürztraminer Ice Wine

Recommended. The law forced Kerry Norton to

Excellent. Early Muscat releases tell-tale aromas of honeysuckle and lychee, and this delightful expression includes lively fresh apple and citrus notes. Estate fruit done in Italian Moscato of Asti fashion, it’s a sweet bubbly (10.7% residual sugar) with lemon/lime and apple flavors, joined by a splash of rosewater. Enjoy on the deck with a fruit salad or by itself.

Okanagan Valley, 800 cases, $30 CDN

Excellent. This trend-setting British Columbia

winery has been crafting ice wine since 1984, and the experience shows in this bottling. Dried pineapple, honey, lime, apple muffin, cane syrup and butterscotch fill the nose. Inside is a bold entry of honey and apples with lime-like acidity balancing the sugar

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put 2005 on the label because of the Jan. 5 harvest date, but the Phil Church Vineyard fruit is from the 2004 vintage. The results start with a nose of wild honey, clover, nuts and a hint of botrytis. Its flavor profile — a sweet one at 21% residual sugar — includes rich and oily butterscotch, golden raisins and red candied apple. Try with cream puffs or bread pudding.

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Recommended. A traditional blend of

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this is the newest style of three sparklers by Trudy Kramer and done in a frizzante style. Essences of light cherry, cantaloupe and steamed peach with a vanilla note are met by similar flavors that are light and pleasant with some Dr Pepper in the finish. The bubbles are on the gentle side, and at 1% residual sugar, this is her driest sparkler.

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding or Recommended wines that retail at $10 ($12 Canadian) and under.

culled about 10 percent of this vintage off Sunnyside, Roza Hills, Staley and Rothrock sites, but there are plenty of accessible fruit notes in this bottling that’s mostly from stainless-steel fermentation. Apricots, dried pineapples and lemons are accented by oak and piquant notes in the aromatics. It’s more of the same on the palate with pears and refreshing sweetness, nice midpalate fruit, pleasing bitterness and lemony acidity. Enjoy with grilled salmon or linguine in clam sauce.

Hyatt Vineyards 2005 Black Muscat Rosé Yakima Valley, 1,675 cases, $7

Outstanding! Uncommon on its own, this grape is taken to an unusual form with this blush. Fresh raspberries, strawberries, cherries, baked apple, rosewater and white peppercorns set the table for an off-dry (2.8% residual sugar) entry of citrus, rose hips, molasses and maple syrup. And yet, there’s not much of a sugar wallop, particularly with green tea at the nicely balanced midpoint. Enjoy as an aperitif with fresh-roasted filberts and Camambert cheese or on the deck during a warm spring afternoon.

Hyatt Vineyards 2005 Riesling Yakima Valley, 2,377 cases, $7

Excellent. Washington produces more Riesling

than any other region in the country, and Hyatt serves up a delicious example at an emblematic price. Orchard fruit, POG juice, lychee nut, cassis blackberry tea, honeysuckle and peppermint licorice candy only begin to describe the bouquet. Mango, apples, lychee and juice from a fresh plum form the sweet flavor profile (2.8% residual sugar), backed by ample acidity and finished by more honeysuckle and anise notes.

Koenig Vineyards 2005 Sunnyslope Riesling Cuvée Idaho, 210 cases, $10

Outstanding! This German variety fares well in Idaho’s climate, and Greg Koenig does right by these grapes. There’s pleasing orchard and citrus fruit aromas and some cracked white peppercorns. Citrus flavors of Texas pink grapefruit and huge lemon/lime lead you into a bright and juicy midpalate. Starfruit adds balance to the brightness of the acidity and richness. Sweet Key lime comes across in the finish. Buy this by the case.

Kramer Vineyards NV Quad Rosé Willamette Valley, 100 cases, $10

Recommended. Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, MüllerThurgau and Carmine — a California-created cross of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carignane — are blended to produce a very pleasant sipper. Wild strawberry, cantaloupe, Hermiston watermelon and candied cherry

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aromatics lead into light and delicate yet sweet flavors of Montmorency cherries and cranberries.

Rainier Ridge Winery 2004 Chardonnay Washington, 5,000 cases, $6

Recommended. This Precept Brands label fea-

tures a bouquet of Golden Delicious apples, candy corn, pineapple, canned corn and earthy qualities. Sweet orchard fruit flavors include a fuzzy apricot and apples. A silky entry goes in nicely with a bit of butterscotch on midpalate, and even though it blends in Semillon (20%), there’s no tartness in the finish.

just downstream from Canoe Ridge, produced the fruit for a base blend of Chardonnay (75%), with additives of Riesling, Orange Muscat, Muscat Ottonel, Viognier and Roussanne. Hints of honeysuckle, gooseberry, lemon, white pepper, marshmallow, and tropical fruit get the juices flowing. A rounded, voluptuous entry, keyed by 25% barrel fermentation, includes more honeyed nuts, apples, Bartlett pears and toasted oak. It’s pleasing all the way through without any sharp notes, and capped by lemon meringue in the finish. Try with scallops or crab, or enjoy as an aperitif.

Ste. Chapelle 2005 Winemaker’s Series Gewürztraminer

Snoqualmie Vineyards

Idaho, 2,500 cases, $7

2005 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 15,000 cases, $7

Excellent. Don’t let the lightness in color and

structure mislead. Joy Andersen crafted a thoughtful and versatile white with complexity beginning in the aromas of pear, coconut and sunflower seed with a vein of minerality running through. Lychee, pineapple and Asian pear flavors are accented by acidity that rushes in and finishes with a dash of savory salt and lime juice.

Sawtooth Winery 2004 Chardonnay

Outstanding! Skyline Vineyard, the state’s largest at 375 acres, produces an Alsatianstyle white with such a following that Constellation is taking this nationally. Golden Delicious apples, pears, Necco wafer, allspice and clover make up the nose. Inside, you get great orchard fruit, acidity throughout, a bit of spritz, a burst of grapefruit and just a touch of sweetness. At the end is some grapefruit pith that broadens its food applications to include spicy Asian dishes, smoked meats or a cheese plate.

Ste. Chapelle

Idaho, 4,000 cases, $10

Outstanding! Brad Pintler deliciously juggles fruit, oak and acidity for a bright and smooth Chardonnay that is approachable starting at the checkout stand. The nose is one of fruit cocktail with pineapple, joined by dried papaya, cantaloupe with some smoky oak. It’s more fruit cocktail on the tongue, including pears, a streamline of acidity and a bit of anise in the finish. Bitterness is well-controlled, and the dry finish makes this also food-friendly.

Sawtooth Winery 2004 Viognier Idaho, 1,275 cases, $10

Excellent. Many of the Northwest’s bargains

come from Idaho, and Brad Pintler has been doing it for 20 years. This release, which includes Roussanne (20%), opens with tropical aromas as well as pineapple, sweetened lemons, mineral and river rock. The flavors continue with the tropical and pineapple, followed by a creamy midpalate from 60% barrel fermentation, then nice citrus acidity. A bit of bitterness in the finish makes for a broad range of food applications, but the fruit stays along, too.

Six Prong 2005 White Table Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 1,400 cases, $10

Excellent. Corus estate vineyard Alder Ridge,

2005 Winemaker’s Series Soft Chenin Blanc Idaho, 23,000 cases, $9

Outstanding! Chuck Devlin left it soft and sweet (6% residual sugar) but striking and popular. Astounding aromatics give you the sense of brown sugar on whipped cream with rosewater on top, along with facial powder and tropical fruit, ginger and mint. The pleasing flavors are those of a mango lassi with honeysuckle, orange sherbert and apples amid the sweetness, giving way to spices of star anise and fennel for complexity. Running through the middle of it all is the acidity associated with so many Idaho wines.

Townshend Cellar 2004 Barrel Fermented Viognier Yakima Valley, 196 cases, $10

Outstanding! Few in the Northwest show as much skill with their barrel program as Don Townshend in Colbert, Wash., and here he is using Willard Family fruit from Prosser to produce one of the most inexpensive Viogniers you can find. The nose strikes a balance of oak and fruit, such as freshly peeled banana, sliced pineapple, clarified butter and a hint of vanilla. Ripe tropical fruit flavors and buttery flavors are focused on the creamy and pleasing midpalate. There’s just a touch of bitterness and anise in the finish that should match a nice catch of scallops.

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vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

Argyle bubbly? That’s the spirit

or Rollin Soles, founder and winemaker for Argyle Winery in Dundee, Ore., creating sparkling wine has honed his skills with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “Make cutting-edge bubbly to ensure you’ll make cuttingedge Chardonnay and Riesling, to ensure you’ll make cuttingedge Pinot Noir,’’ Soles said. He’s shown this is more than just hyperbole because for five years running, Argyle has had a Pinot Noir or Chardonnay included international magazines’ top 100 lists. And this all happens with a haunted house as a tasting room. That’s what the winery claims, as the ghost of a troubled Dundee woman, Lena Elsie Imus, who died in 1908, is said to inhabit the former Dundee City Hall, now home to Argyle Winery. “People think there is something there, but they don’t get scared about it,” Soles said, adding that Imus’ ghost is a good spirit. “I think it adds a great depth of fun and story to Dundee to have a ghost like that involved around here. It’s a nice heritage piece,” he said. And he’s taken advantage of the ghost story by naming a Pinot Noir “Spirithouse.” Soles received a bachelor’s degree in microbiology from Texas A&M and a master’s of science in enology and viticulture at U-C Davis. During his early winemaking years, he honed his knowledge and skills at wineries in California, Switzerland and Australia. He went on to create Argyle Winery in ’87 and quickly gained a dedicated following. Today, his major partner is Australian winery owner Brian Croser. Argyle is one of the few tasting rooms in the Pacific Northwest where a person can start with a chilled bubbly and end up with a classic warm-the-soul Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. While Soles loves all his wines, he said making sparkling wines is a labor of love. “The Willamette Valley is a great place to make outstanding sparkling wines, and I would like to see one or more of the world Champagne houses that have invested in California locate a facility up here.” I started with three of his sparkling wines, including two vintage sparklers, and I swear there were no spirit apparitions other than the tingling of the tongue. 1999 Knudsen Vineyard Brut, $35: Toasty French style with flavorful lemon-lime essences. Made of 80 percent Pinot Noir and 20 percent Chardonnay, its flavors include Bartlett pear apple tart and creme brulée with a lingering finish. 1998 Blanc de Blancs, $30: Elegant, a classic for a special occasion made of 100 percent Chardonnay. Rich citrus components. 110

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2001 brut, $25: Very crisp and dry. Made of 52 percent Chardonnay and 48 percent Pinot Noir. It is zesty and palatecleansing with aromas and flavors of lemon and spice.

After this fine appetizer, I moved on to the still wines. 2005 Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, $20: A nice blend of oak and fruit with apples, pear and some citrus. Rich, yet not in your face, so it should match well with a variety of food. Try halibut crusted with hazelnuts and a wee bit of lemon. 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $22: A bright, cherry-driven Pinot on the lighter side that makes a perfect match for food. Smooth, easy-drinking with some spice overtones. 2000 Clubhouse Pinot Noir, $50: Sold only at the tasting room, this 7-year-old still shows lots of power and finesse. Vanilla oak is supported by bright cherry flavors.

Three wines I wish I could have tasted but were sold out shows Soles’ more than adequate vocabulary in describing them. 2004 Reserve Pinot Noir, $35: “The 2004 season was a return to the type of wines that drew me to Oregon in the first place. These are the kind of fresh fruited, complex wines that beg you to enjoy another glass! The aromas of this wine are what Pinot Noir is all about. Leap out of the glass black cherry with air–dried raspberry fruit aromas are layered with myrrh, cellar cave earth and lovely rose petal complexity. No floral character anymore. The flavors are multilayered and develop wonderfully with time in the glass or decanter. That black cherry fruit appears riding on a carpet of silky texture.” 2003 Nuthouse Pinot Noir, Lone Star Vineyards $45: “The Nuthouse designation is used for our biggest, boldest and most aggressive style of Pinot Noir. The aromas have developed a mixed pouch of delicious spice to go with the super concentrated black fruit scent. The aroma descriptions pass directly to flavor only with more spice and fruit intensity. Oak char, earth, and grippy tannin structure. This is not your shy, pretty sort of Pinot Noir!” 2004 Spirithouse Pinot Noir, Knudsen Vineyards, $70: “This is a surprisingly ripe Spirithouse wine, considering it is derived from our highest elevation spot in Knudsen Vineyard. Uber ripe fruit aromas include plum with blackberry concentrate, lovely cedar-bergamot spice and an interesting sort of ‘bramble’ character. The flavor is bursting with juiciness with very fine textured tannins. That concentrated blackberry fruit is so rich one could figuratively slice it with a knife.”

BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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