Wine Press Northwest Spring 2008

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 11, No. 1

N O R T H W E S T

Spring 2008

COVER STORY Walla Walla winemaker Eric Dunham, seen here goofing around at Dunham Cellars, and his family win our Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year award. Story begins on Page 34.

Photo by Jackie Johnston

FEATURES

34 Northwest Winery of the Year Dunham Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash., takes this year’s top honor.

DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose The first decade

8 A Distant Perspective

38 Regional Wineries of the Year Find out which wineries have been named Wineries of the Year and Wineries to Watch for Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and Idaho.

52 Winemaker’s Loft

Syrah’s dubious future

10 Market Grapevine Celebrating the rites of spring

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Rosés back in fashion in NW

14 Urban Sips Rewards for raw judgment

Tragedy doesn’t derail winemaker’s dream business.

60 Wine label marketing Wine labels seek to tell story and sell bottles.

68 Pinot Noir tasting results The Pinot Noir pioneers of Oregon still are making some of the best wine around.

86 Match Makers The Herbfarm’s celebrated new chef pairs six courses with six offerings from the portfolio of neighboring Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

16 Wine Destinations Boise, Idaho

18 21 22 96 114

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings Hogue’s concept, wines built to last

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Tina Hammond, Jay Drysdale, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Mary Hopkin, Ingrid Stegemoeller Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Mona Perdue, 360-373-2659 E-mail: monaperdue@comcast.net To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $10 U.S., $12 Canadian and $15 outside of North America per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site.

Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below.

Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2008 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

The first decade

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s I think about about the past decade, I find myself shaking my head — not about how quickly the time has passed or what has happened in the Northwest wine scene, but about just how young and naive we were when we started Wine Press Northwest in the spring of 1998.

I was 33 years old, by my own accounting a grizzled journalist who’d been in the newspaper business for 13 years and knew it all. Frankly, my knowledge of wine was frighteningly limited. Looking back, it took a certain level of hubris for me to think I could be the editor of a wine magazine. Looking back on those first two issues, I cringe and chuckle simultaneously at what we published.

Managing Editor Eric Degerman and I hatched the idea of launching a wine magazine while sitting around late one night in the Tri-City Herald newsroom. We’d both been traveling down the road of wine appreciation and enjoyment for a few years and often talked about the local discoveries we’d made. That particular night, we were waiting for the newspaper’s big presses to roll and were complaining about the general lack of coverage and respect the big wine magazines gave our little corner of the wine universe.

We were hungry for information, and we weren’t being fed.

The next day, I strode into the publisher’s office and told him I had an idea: I wanted to start a wine magazine — and I wanted him to pay for it. A decade ago, newspapers were fat and happy. Advertising and circulation goals were being met with relative ease. These days? Not so much. I’m reasonably certain I could walk into any newspaper publisher’s office today and be laughed back into the foyer. Even with business plans, profit-and-loss statements and lists of potential advertisers, it would be extremely difficult to launch a niche publication such as Wine Press Northwest.

Fortunately, this was a decade ago. That particular publisher said, “Why not?” and the first issue rolled off the presses four months later.

Our initial plan was to publish it on newsprint and focus entirely on Washington. Wine Spectator started out on newsprint, and it’s done pretty well for itself through the decades. Fortunately, we decided to put it on glossy magazine stock. My father-in-law, who lives near Portland, said we’d be foolish to not include Oregon, which had a healthy wine industry. I quickly concurred. I then looked north and realized British Columbia was a fascinating and emerging wine region, so we included it, too. Idaho, which had a dozen wineries, was added to the package because it is part of the region defined as “Pacific Northwest.”

In the ensuing years, we’ve changed a lot about Wine Press Northwest. We are better at seeing and understanding trends.

We do a better job at balancing coverage throughout the region (every region complains we don’t do enough for them, which I think validates this point). And we know a lot 6

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more about wine than we did. I think we even qualify as experts.

I’m 43 now, still considered fairly young in the wine writing game. I became a father last fall. I have a lot more gray in my hair and beard. I am more grizzled than I was a decade ago. I think 33-year-olds are know-it-alls who actually know very little. I apologize to all you 53-year-olds who thought of me the same way in 1998.

I am not quite sure what I expected to happen a decade ago. I suspect I saw this as a fun departure from the sometimes-dreary job of editing stories and writing headlines on a newspaper copy desk. I never anticipated writing a book about wine, being asked to speak on the subject or becoming a wine judge. I didn’t think I’d become quite so picky about things like cheeses and olive oils. My wife sometimes thinks we’ve become snobs about food (to which I reply that I still work at a newspaper and cannot afford to be too snobby about such things).

What has not changed in the past decade is our laser focus on the wines of the Pacific Northwest.

We started this magazine with the idea that we would never waver from our goal of covering Northwest wine. If we wrote about travel, it would be where to go in Northwest wine country. If we wrote about food, it would be about regional food-and-wine pairings or chefs who support Northwest wine. We are regularly approached by writers who want to cover microbrews, spirits or other products that are not Northwest wine. Sorry, that’s not our gig. If you think it’s a winning idea, go start your own magazine.

The best thing that has come out of running this magazine is not the wine samples. Trust me: Tasting wine for a living sounds like fun until you get to your 40th Chardonnay of the morning. Rather, it’s been the people we’ve met and friendships we’ve made along the way. Most of the folks in the wine business are not in it for the money. They have a passion for wine, a burning desire they’re trying to fulfill. Shared passions tend to make for long and wonderful friendships. I love walking through vineyards or barrel rooms with people in the wine industry. No matter their age, they never seem to quell the enthusiasm they have for fermented grape juice.

As we put issue No. 39 to bed, I can’t help but wonder where we’ll be in another decade. I’ll be 53. My daughter will be a teenager. I’ll be a lot more gray — and a lot more grizzled. I’ll probably look back at what we’re publishing today, shake my head and wonder what I was thinking.

ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 and via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com. Watch his weekly video wine show at www.winepressnw.com.

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a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Syrah’s dubious future

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hose of us who consume wine on a daily basis are often more eclectic in our tastes. For us, it’s a bummer when night after night we face the same old stuff.

Back when I was a pup and consumed a lot of Gallo Hearty Burgundy, I didn’t mind that the stuff always tasted the same.

Not any more. If I have a Cabernet on Sunday, I want Sauvignon Blanc on Monday, Riesling on Tuesday, Syrah on Wednesday and Norton on Thursday. If Cab comes up twice in a week, I want them to be different.

And we alter the food. When I want a Riesling, the dish chosen to go with it is secondary. Often, we pick the wine first and the food comes second.

About two years ago, I noticed that I rarely picked Syrah on those wine-picked-first nights. It was obvious why: boredom.

As a lover of almost all wine, I viewed Syrah some 20 years ago as a potentially fascinating alternative to other dark reds.

It hasn’t worked out quite as I had expected, but at the time I had no idea the world of wine would come to such a staid state in which excessive ripeness was seen as mandatory by so many.

Syrah has a future among wine lovers, but at the moment, it’s sitting unloved on the vine, or rather on store shelves.

Winemakers with whom I’m close admit that sales of this wine for the last 18 months or so have been flat. Sure, a few hot brands can command prices in the $40 range, but it appears that a majority of “high end” Syrahs from California and Washington now can’t justify $30. Even $20 is a stretch.

One superb Syrah producer from Sonoma County is Dan Goldfield. By any measure, it’s at least as good as, if not a lot better than, Penfolds’ famed Grange, which sells for $250 a bottle on reputation.

When, some years ago, I tasted the Dutton Goldfield Syrah and knew it was a classic, I suggested that Dan charge $75 for it, as he didn’t make more than a couple of hundred cases of it.

But Dan knows the market, and he rapidly rejected my suggestion. He began to charge $35 (same as today), and still it doesn’t sell out as fast as you’d imagine.

Syrahs that once sold briskly at $30 have slowed. I argue that the reason is simple: Consumers seem to get the fact that this grape variety delivers good, sound quality at a modest price (sales of Aussie Shiraz are sailing along, generally in the $7 to $18 price range), so why should someone spend a lot of money on a wine that may only be marginally better?

The answer is distinctiveness.

When a Syrah is truly distinctive, it is worth more. And what has happened to Syrah in the last decade is most winemakers err on the side of pyrazine caution and leave the grapes on the vine so long, they get ultra-ripe. Winemakers believe consumers don’t want anything “green” in their red wines.

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Bzzzz. Wrong answer.

Distinctive red wine sells because it is distinctive. But Syrah harvested late usually is devoid of distinction. It is a fat red wine.

The prized Shirazes in Australia come in all different forms, and among the most in-demand today are cooler-climate wines that have pepper (black and white), clove, mace, nutmeg, cinnamon, red currant, black currant, olive, tea and perhaps a dozen more descriptors.

A classic example of how the U.S. consumer seems oblivious to the great qualities in distinctive cooler-climate Syrah is Brandborg Winery’s 2004 Syrah, Umpqua Valley ($27).

This wine delivers classic black pepper aromatics with hints of violet and clove and has expressiveness in the finish because of good structure based on a balance of fruit, acid and tannins. But it has been a slow mover in retail outlets.

Terry Brandborg has made this wine for a number of years, but in this most distinctive version, the curious thing is that non-tasting room consumers don’t understand the wine.

Most assume the peppery component is somehow related to the green pyrazine elements seen in some unripe Cabernets.

This wine isn’t unripe at all but exhibits the black pepper aroma called rotundone, recently identified by a research team from Australia.

Brandborg is distressed that this superb wine sells slowly away from the winery, though it sells well at his tasting room, thanks to explanations of its character. The 2002 version of this wine received a Platinum medal three years ago at Wine Press Northwest’s annual Platinum competition.

Those interested in the wine may purchase it at the tasting room (or by phone, 541-584-2870). Those who say they read about it here will pay only $240 for a case, or $20 a bottle.

California has a few Syrah makers who can achieve this level of complexity if they harvest early enough to capture the distinctiveness. Washington, with its colder nights, can far more easily deliver this. Not as many do.

I’ve tasted a lot of Washington Syrahs that showed the wines came from good fruit. But many displayed a level of ripeness where the nuances that might have been there at 24º brix were gone by 26º. And these wines were picked at 28º.

It’s sad to see this. Complex nuances are part of the regional and varietal charms that great wines deliver. Over-ripe Syrah is like anything that’s overripe: It’s simple, boring and not worth a lot of money.

The future for Syrah lies in distinctiveness.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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market grapevine

BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Celebrating the rites of spring Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

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pring arrives, unleashing pent-up excitement for the fresh foods of the season — baby greens, wild mushrooms, assorted shellfish and the first catches of salmon and halibut — that pair so well with the Northwest’s outstanding wines and help us celebrate the rites of spring.

Our spring feast begins with an Okanagan Valley sparkler that is featured on many wine lists in British Columbia. Made like traditional Champagne, Blue Mountain Vineyard Brut Sparkling Wine ($24 CDN) is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris grapes. It begins with a toasty, citrus-rich nose that evolves to more citrus, plus melon and strawberry in the mouth, continuing into a medium-long finish.

This complex wine “sparkles” on its own, but it also makes an impressive accompaniment to Alaskan Spot Prawns with Champagne Sauce, a recipe from my Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2005). Begin by melting two tablespoons of unsalted butter over medium-high heat. Add two tablespoons of minced shallots and cook until translucent, stirring occasionally.

Add half a cup of fish or chicken stock, bring to a boil and cook until reduced to one-quarter cup, stirring occasionally.

Add half a cup each of heavy whipping cream and Champagne or sparkling wine, and cook until thickened, stirring occasionally. Add one-eighth teaspoon each salt and white pepper, stir well and serve over poached or lightly sautéed spot prawns.

Our first-course wine comes from one of Washington’s best-known producers. Washington Hills 2005 Riesling (Columbia Valley, $8) is not only a bargain in price, but also a beauty of a spring wine — light golden straw in color and rife with ripe stone fruit — apricots and peaches. Its long finish will leave you tasting orange peel and a bit of sweetness tempered by soft acidity.

Pair this gentle Riesling with a tangy spring salad from Carol Foster’s Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994). In a large bowl, whisk half a cup of plain yogurt and two tablespoons each of orange juice and tahini (sesame paste) until smooth. Toss five cups of lightly packed rinsed and trimmed watercress or spinach, three cups of lightly packed torn Boston or Bibb lettuce, four segmented oranges (oranges that have been cut away from the skin, pith and membranes, so only the fruit remains), the tahini dressing and two tablespoons of toasted sesame seeds. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper just before serving.

The Bethel Heights 2004 Chardonnay ($25) from the Willamette Valley is one of those all-around great wines, a not-overly oaked Chardonnay that manages to be perfect for sipping on its own, yet food-friendly, too. Made from 70 percent Dijon clones and 30 percent Old Vine Wente 10

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clones, the wine opens with aromas and flavors of pears and apples accented by a pleasing minerality. Hints of wood spice, a rich mouth feel and bright acidity tie up the superb package.

Serve this special Chardonnay with Roasted Halibut with Sherry-Braised Morel Mushrooms, a recipe that’s featured in my new book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007), and was created by Ethan Stowell, chef and owner of three dynamic restaurants in Seattle — Union, Tavolàta and How to Cook a Wolf.

First, season (with salt and pepper), then sear four 5-ounce halibut fillets in two tablespoons of olive oil about three to four minutes per side. Next, melt two tablespoons of unsalted butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and add two tablespoons of minced shallots. Cook until softened but not browned, add half a pound of well-cleaned morel mushrooms (cut in half) and stir well.

Add a quarter cup of Manzanilla or Fino Sherry (Note: These sherries are very dry; do not use sweet sherry), stir well and cook until the liquid is almost completely reduced. Fold in two tablespoons of heavy whipping cream (whipped to stiff peaks) and season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the braised morels among four warm soup bowls, place the halibut on top and serve immediately.

We conclude our spring celebration with the Ste. Chapelle 2005 Skyline Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine ($22 for a 375 ml) from Idaho. This sweet dessert wine is a Wine Press Northwest Platinum award winner, and it’s easy to see why. Juicy flavors of citrus (think orange peel!) and peaches backed by balanced acidity work well with tropical-fruit desserts, such as the Coconut Angel Food Cake with Cara Cara Orange Sorbet it was paired with at the recent Platinum Dinner in Seattle.

But another intriguing possibility is Orange-Coconut Macaroons, a recipe from the venerable Stephanie Inn in Cannon Beach, Ore., which published The Stephanie Inn Cookbook in 2004. Begin by preheating the oven to 350 degrees and greasing two baking sheets (or lining with parchment paper). Next, in a mixing bowl, combine the juice of one orange; 14 ounces of shredded, sweetened coconut; 14 ounces of sweetened condensed milk; two teaspoons of almond extract; and one teaspoon of vanilla extract. Drop by spoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheets and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until golden. You should end up with about two dozen cookies, heavenly bites with which to celebrate the rites of spring.

BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 17 years. She is the author of seven books including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (John Wiley & Sons, October 2007). Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.

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11 Canyon's Edge

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Rosés back into fashion in NW It seems like rosé wines suddenly are popular in the Northwest. What happened? I gave up on them years ago after discovering a world beyond California’s pallidly pink white Zin.

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he rebirth of rosé in the Northwest can be attributed to several occurrences, most notably the ever-increasing number of grape varieties that the region’s grape growers have been experimenting with.

The current favorite and most successful of the new breed of rosé is being made from the Italian grape, Sangiovese.

Maryhill Winery nabbed a unanimous Double Platinum with its 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese in Wine Press Northwest’s Platinum judging last fall.

This dry wine’s rush of cherry flavors, splash of sweet spice and perfect acidity made it one of the four top-rated wines out of 258 wines sampled in the tasting. That’s pretty heady company for a $14 wine from this winery, which overlooks the Columbia River from the Washington side a few miles upriver from The Dalles, Ore. And Maryhill wasn’t alone in grabbing a slew of gold medals for its rosé in the past year. Barnard Griffin of Richland, Wash., won a double gold with its 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese ($11), head and shoulders in terms of quality above plenty of $50 red wines with big reputations.

Those honors were no fluke. Maryhill’s version had previously won a gold at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. Barnard Griffin’s Best Rosé at the Riverside International Wine Competition and a gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. And the 2007 won the rosé sweepstake at this year’s Chronicle competition.

In our previous issue, Wine Press Northwest also ranked two other rosé wines as “Outstanding” — the 2005 rosé from Farm Boy Wines in Prosser, Wash., and the 2006 Rosé the Riveter from Working Girl Wines/Olympic Cellars in Port Angeles, Wash. The Farm Boy version was made from 68 percent Sangiovese and 32 percent Cabernet Franc from the Wahluke Slope and the Working Girl from Lemberger grown at Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills. The prices?

Only $12 for the Farm Boy and $14 for the Rosé the Riveter.

In the past year, the magazine has evaluated rosé wines made from varying blends of Sangiovese, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Dolcetto (another Italian red grape), Merlot, Pinot Gris, Lemberger, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Viognier, Riesling, Tempranillo, Chasselas Dore, Siegerrebe, Roussanne, Gewürztraminer and even huckleberry juice!

No matter how they’ve been made, many of them have been top-rated and fall into the $10-$15 bracket. If the combination of low price and high quality aren’t big enough attractions, wine loves ought to rediscover another facet of rosé — its versatility.

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You can take it on a picnic with cheeses, cold cuts, crusty French bread, olives and fresh fruit and other finger food, or you can pop the cork on a bottle to pour with your Easter ham or Thanksgiving turkey. A fine dry rosé will work with those and many other meals.

Slip some of a rosé blend with a good dose of hearty reds into a black glass, and more than a few folks will have a hard time sorting it out from a red.

Wine Word: Methusaleh

In the world of wine, there are a number of so-called large-format bottles that are legally permitted, although just exactly how big they are depends on whether you’re in Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy or perhaps somewhere else.

In Burgundy or Champagne, a Methusaleh is 6 liters, the equivalent of eight 750-ml bottles. In Bordeaux, that size is likely to be labeled an Imperiale. For the curious reader, after the 1.5-liter Magnum, the other large-format sizes are: Marie-Jeanne (Bordeaux, 2.25 liters); the 3-liter Double Magnum (Bordeaux) and Jeroboam (Burgundy/Champagne); the 4.5-liter Jeroboam (Bordeaux) and Rehoboam (Burgundy/Champagne); and, in Burgundy/Champagne only, the 9-liter Salmanazar, 12-liter Balthazar and 15-liter Nebuchadnezzar.

Getting it just right

An alert Canadian reader poked me with an e-mail noting that my last column, in which I discussed how much alcohol a Canadian citizen can bring back home without paying duty and taxes, was not quite correct.

I failed to mention that a Canadian who’s been in the United States for fewer than 48 hours cannot bring any alcohol back home without paying duty and taxes. After 48 hours, Canadians can bring back either 1.5 liters of wine (alias two 750-ml bottles) or 1.14 liters of liquor.

Steve Savitt, who didn’t indicate where he’s from, sent me to the following link to the Web site of the Canada Border Services Agency: www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/pub/bsf5056-eng.html To Mr. Savitt, thank you. To my readers, sorry for the omission. If I inconvenienced anyone at the border, I’ll offer to make amends by reimbursing the first five claimants who had to pay duty or taxes on their two 750-ml bottles (send in your receipt), in exchange for a reply via e-mail or snail mail listing their favorite Northwest white wine, their favorite Northwest red wine and their favorite restaurant to consume either of their choices. Include its address.

Help me learn from my mistake.

KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 38 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com.

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urban sips

BY TERI CITTERMAN

Rewards for raw judgment

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rom day one, we’re told: Don’t be judgmental. Come on, I say, give me some hope for the future — something I might actually achieve in this lifetime. But that?

Said in the identical tone to the puppy going for Prada, “Leave it!”

Yes, we’d all be better people if we could stick to that ephemeral commandment: Thou shalt not judge others … by their political, religious or any other beliefs or actions that we vehemently disagree with. But c’mon, we live in a society of raw judgment — where intelligence and character are better based on the dress she wore to the dinner or how often he’s entered rehab (even more so when you consider the dress he wore when he entered rehab, but that’s another column for another publication).

Drivers, neighbors, politicians, wine — all up for verdict. So with that, grab a glass and let the game begin.

Cave B’s 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley, likes dogs but often finds their owners deplorable. This wine, full of sharp earthiness and leather, is no stranger to those shifty-eyed fast walkers, who push their forlorn creature onto the neighbor’s lawn to do its business. With its bold structure and jammy intensity, it watches with stoic interest as the culprit gives a sharp look left, then quickens his footsteps while whisking the dog away. Now don’t confuse retribution with anger; this resourceful wine promptly tracks down the owner’s address and serves justice in a scribbled note: “Seems you forgot something on your neighbor’s lawn.”

Robert Karl Cellars’ 2005 Claret, Columbia Valley, shows a fine style. It’s aloof and somewhat detached. But as it comes to life, it drips with a commanding simmer of dark fruit, cherry and tobacco. A little herby, with cocoa powder and vanilla pipe smoke, this blend reacts to the fill-in-the-blank-celebritycommitted-yet-again breaking news of the day. This wine stretches its smooth, even finish and grumbles in a low, barely audible Thurston Howell the Third, lock-jaw inflection “Really, Lovey, they’re artists! Can’t they come up with something better? So passé.”

And speaking of controversial matters on the minds of candidates, the campaign trails are ripening. La Frenz 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, with its full-bodied darkness of fruit and chocolate, wonders what will happen when the music stops.

Will the three-and-a-half left standing know to plant themselves down in the two seats remaining? Do we dare speculate that of those seated, neither first nor last name begins with the letter H? The music stops and a scrambling brawl ensues — a punch thrown, an ear bitten. Ironically, it would take a Canadian to give us perspective on the future leader of our country.

People say the darndest things at highly obnoxious volumes. Why, as innocent bystanders browsing the shelves of Barnes and Noble, is it necessary that we bear witness to: “Well if he knew she was cheating, why did he propose? No (loud) ... No! (louder) … I thought that only happened in the 14

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movies.” With a curt, throat-clearing moan, King Estate 2004 Domaine Pinot Noir, Oregon, will not stand for this involuntary eavesdropping. With a burst of raspberry and blueberry ribbon and traces of vanilla spice, this maneuvering eccentric jots comments and suggestions to the questions posed by the one-sided conversationalist. With a smooth finish like a red satin sheet, it drops the note in the lap of the culprit with a strong recommendation toward the self-help section of the store.

Speaking of self help, served by tonight’s dinner host, Nicholas Cole Cellars’ second label GraEagle 2003 RedWing, Columbia Valley, is the blended elephant in the room at the latest family gathering. It’s indirect yet impossible to ignore.

With intense layers of dark cherry, clove and pepper, this wine is on everyone’s mind, and yet, subtle enough to fade into the shadows. Its wood smoke and tobacco create an intimate warmth when the question finally surfaces: Jim, are you going to continue keeping your “girlfriend” in the trunk of your car, or do you think we’ll finally get to meet him one day?

People ask, in a sometimes puzzled, sometimes-accusatory tone, “You eat bacon? But I thought it’s against your religion?” Well yes. And, technically, yes. If I’m so brazen to say, this is where I question the Big Guy’s motives (Can you go to jail for questioning?).

Cathedral Ridge 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, appropriately a big player in the infamous garden with its chocolaty, cherry and ripe, dark berry-ness. This wise wine refers to bacon as really its own food group, much like meat or dairy.

Acknowledging the sound, biblical reasons that keep it offlimits, this wine raises the question: Why not the apple? Talk about sinful! Mmm, apple-smoked bacon, even better — the universal perfect pair for any wine. Or anything!

Traffic is one thing, but terrible drivers are unacceptable, and Domaine Drouhin Oregon’s 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, with its broad shoulders and strong backbone, shows little tolerance for bad behavior. Admittedly, it fantasizes about ramming those drivers who steer lacksidasically under the speed limit into the passing lane. With an expressive nose of light purple flowers, red, black fruit, spice and tang, followed by loud expletives from the impatient Drouhin whilst trying unsuccessfully to maneuver around them. Flipping the bird is just not creative enough to convey the raw, wrecked emotion. Prozac? Perhaps.

At the end of the day, it may bring comfort to know that, somewhere, there’s a therapist waiting for each and every one of us to stumble though their door.

With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books.

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a weekend in boise

Boise a great base for Idaho wine touring

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

French-Canadians are credited with naming Boise, which — depending on your source — translates to “woods” or “wooded.”

Two centuries later, one would bet those Francophone fur trappers would appreciate the wine industry that’s surrounded Idaho’s state capital and its downtown population of 210,000.

Count the bedroom communities, and it’s nearly 600,000 people.

Not only is the area one of the fastest growing in the United States, but there’s also the sexy new Snake River Valley American Viticultural Area surrounding it.

“We’re getting tourists come through just because they saw it on the news and phone calls from distributors and restau-

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rants on the East Coast,” said Beverly Williamson, marketing manager for Williamson Vineyards in Caldwell. “We’re not a hobbyist wine area anymore.”

Those flying into Boise will appreciate the airport’s modern terminal, completed in 2004. And tourists quickly pick up on the clean, safe and hip vibe to downtown, which features the Capitol building (closed until 2010 for renovations), headquarters for three Fortune 500 firms, urban renewal and a college campus.

Travel tip: Just remember you now are in the Mountain Time Zone.

Lodging options include the boutique Hotel 43 with its chic and high-tech accommodations and Chandlers Steakhouse on the ground floor. The Grove Hotel, another high-rise downtown destination, is adjacent to the Qwest Arena.

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Fans of spectator sports will find pro teams competing in baseball, basketball, hockey and indoor football. Boise State University’s football program ranks among one of the most entertaining in the country, and the PGA Tour’s minor league circuit visits each September.

Those preferring outdoor activity will enjoy the 25-mile Boise River Greenbelt that meanders past BSU. Bike rentals can be had downtown at several shops.

Museums include the Old Idaho Territorial Penitentiary. Each Wednesday from May to October, there’s the “Alive After Five” festival centered on food and music. And the Boise Co-op promotes Idaho Preferred products, Snake River Farms meat and Northwest wine.

The city’s renovated downtown district includes the Grove, the Basque Block and BoDo, and each offers an

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a weekend in boise array of worthwhile dining options.

A number embrace regional wines, and Wine Press Northwest has featured several during our 10-year history — Andrae’s, Bardenay, Mortimer’s and the Red Feather Lounge. It’s virtually impossible to find a better weekend brunch than at Red Feather. Grab lunch inside a wine bar/shop by walking into Pug Ostling’s Grape Escape Wine & Remembrance. For a wicked tropical drink and live music, swing into Reef.

Boise is the capital of Idaho — and a lively region for wine and food lovers.

Dinner options exist in wine country, too. In Nampa, Copper Canyon is a past Match Maker participant, and winemakers also recommended Brick 29 Bistro.

In Marsing, the Sandbar River House pours local wines.

Blue Ribbon Artisans in Meridian provides a fascinating culinary village with a bakery, coffee shop, estate meats, wine shop/deli and an estate dairy program with hedonistic ice cream. There’s French fine dining as well as a pub.

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Working up an appetite is easy for winesters, who can taste at a dozen wineries within an hour’s drive of Boise. (Drop the kids off at Roaring Springs Water Park in Meridian.)

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One day could be spent around the agricultural-rich Sunny Slope within the Caldwell-Parma-Marsing triangle.

In Parma, there’s Parma Ridge and Snake River. Caldwell features five with tasting rooms open to the public: Bitner, Hells Canyon, Koenig Distillery & Winery, Ste. Chapelle and Williamson.

On another day, patronize the four wineries around Nampa, Kuna and Eagle. In between Marsing and Nampa, there’s Sawtooth. South of Meridian you’ll find Indian Creek and Silver Trail in Kuna. And north of Meridian, in Eagle, there’s Wood River Winery — formerly known as the Winery at Eagle Knoll. The change will be official in May. And maybe someday one of these Idaho wineries will begin referring to their Chardonnay treated in French oak as “Boise’d.”

ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press

Northwest.

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great things to do

in Northwest wine country

By ERIC DEGERMAN Renditions of Take Me Out to the Ball Game at Safeco Field in Seattle coincide with the annual re-awakening of the Northwest wine industry.

Worries about winter kill have subsided, even though bud break — then frost — becomes an issue. But at least driving conditions are no longer barriers as wineries throw open their doors.

Savvy buyers who follow the winter wine competitions start rolling into tasting rooms to load up SUVs. That’s ultimately the name of the game — selling and sharing wine. It’s a win/win situation for the wineries and the wine tourists.

However, here are some ideas that go beyond those bottom-line transactions.

By the way, the Mariners play at trading partner Baltimore on April 5-6, so parking for Taste Washington ($85) will be easier. Visit tastewashington.org.

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Primers for wine touring season.

This year, the opening pitch of the Northwest barrel tasting campaign is around Lake Chelan in Washington.

Chelan Nouveau runs April 19-27 as area wineries offer the new whites and rosés. Vineyard tours and live entertainment are available. Call 866-789-5071 or go to cometothelake.com.

On deck is the Yakima Valley Spring Barrel Tasting on April 25-27.

In the hole is the Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend — also known

as “Leonetti Weekend” — May 3-4.

The Inland Empire, which includes Spokane and the Idaho Panhandle, holds its barrel tasting May 9-11. That’s Mothers Day weekend. There are 10 members in the Spokane association, and Coeur d’Alene Cellars is just 30 minutes to the east. Its No. 6 Wine Bar will be open that weekend.

The North Central Washington folks stage theirs May 16-18, with the Columbia River Wine Country members on May 17-18.

Memorial Weekend in Wine Country for the Willamette Valley is May 24-26.

To book a bus trip/barrel tour of the burgeoning Southern Oregon Winery Association, go to sorwa.org.

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A new tool for your glove box.

How many folks use their glove box for gloves? I store maps, Advil and condiments in my wife’s glove box.

The Oregon Wine Board partnered with regional wine organizations to create the new “Discover Oregon Wine Country” tool kit. This package is billed as everything someone needs to plan a wine trip in the state. Included is a state overview, regional information, maps and winery/vineyard listings for Benton County, Columbia Gorge, Dundee Hills, Lane County, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley, the Willamette Valley and the Walla Walla Valley.

Cost is $5, and it is delivered via USPS First Class mail. To order, go to oregonwine.org then select “Experience Wine Country” and “Brochure.”

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A taste of Tofino. Outdoors enthusiasts and romantics view Tofino, British Columbia, as one of the prime destinations in the Northwest.

Here’s another reason to visit the Pacific Ocean side of Vancouver Island.

The sixth annual Tofino Food and Wine Festival will be staged June 6-8 at several

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W I N E C O U N T RY locations. More than 50 B.C. wineries will be featured, along with area chefs, island purveyors, live music, artists and authors.

Slow Food will be a central theme.

It’s an amazing drive from Victoria to Tofino. Rod Butters — a Match Maker alumnus — raised the profile of the famed Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino, prior to launching Fresco in Kelowna. For info, contact event coordinator Kira Rogers at tofinofoodandwinefestival.com.

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Walk, wine and art in Idaho.

The Coeur d’Alene Downtown Association stages its Art Walk once a month on either the first or second Friday. Art galleries display new exhibits for area artists, and Coeur d’Alene Cellars’ tasting gallery downtown is a regular participant.

Its Barrel Room No. 6 plays host to a local jazz ensemble each night of Art Walk, which gives guests a chance to take in music, enjoy cheese and chocolate plates and sip the awardwinning wines of Warren Schutz.

The first scheduled Art Walk is April 11.

Local artist Sarah Jane Gates’ work with watercolors ranks among the best in the Northwest, and it adorns each bottle of Coeur d’Alene Cellars.

She’s also part owner of the winery.

For information, go to cdacellars.com.

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Become a Vine Vixen. The folks at Kestrel Vintners have kicked their legs up on the “Ladies Club,” and it’s tied closely to the Prosser, Wash., winery’s two most popular wines — the Lady in Red and the Platinum.

The focus is on bringing women together and using the wine to raise funds for charity. Kelly Koon, an awardwinning concierge in Seattle, created the concept and is well connected to the Washington wine industry. Her group is casual, fun and inclusive. You select a 1940s-style pin-up girl as your avatar so when the women are online in discussion groups, they are their pin-up. For events and info, see VineVixens.com.

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A Tour and toast to Jackson.

Bonneville Hot Springs Resort and Spa in North Bonneville, Wash., continues to expand awareness W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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activities

for sarcoma, and some elite Columbia Gorge wineries are joining the cause.

Jackson’s Tour de Spa raises funds for children with sarcoma cancer. Jackson Hill of Portland was just 12 when he lost his life to sarcoma in 2005.

On April 18, four wineries on both sides of the Columbia — Pheasant Valley, Syncline Cellars, The Pines 1852 and Wind River Cellars — will pour their wines at the resort. Jackson’s parents, David and Melissa, will join them.

There will be hors d’oeuvres, door prizes and live entertainment. Cost is $20, and it all goes to the Northwest Sarcoma Foundation. Appoint a designated driver or look into a discounted stay at the spa. The cycling tour for Jackson is July 12. See bonnevilleresort.com.

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Get in touch with a vine. Here’s another take on eco-tourism.

Chateau Faire Le Pont in Wenatchee, Wash., now has an Adopt-aVine program. Owner/winemaker Doug Brazile invites you to learn the various

stages of winemaking within a vintage, starting with pruning on April 5 to crush to racking in October and bottling in January 2009. Brazile is your guide, and each event is capped by a reward of wine and cheese. It’s $100 per person.

Call 509-667-9463 or visit fairelepont.net.

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Red wine gives you wings. Birds on the wing know a good spot to rest is Secret House Winery in Veneta, Ore. In fact, winery owner Patti Chappel provides a hedgerow habitat on the 54-acre estate just to attract birds.

On May 10, she brings wine lovers and birdwatchers together for the Third Annual Fern Ridge Wings and Wine Festival. It celebrates International Migratory Bird Day and focuses on Fern Ridge Reservoir. Last year, nearly a dozen bird experts were featured speakers.

Activities begin at 7 a.m., and the schedule includes bird and nature walks, children’s activities, canoe trips, educational talks and, of course, a wine tasting booth.

One of the highlights will be a four-

hour van tour that begins at Secret House and visits three other Eugenearea wineries — Sweet Cheeks Winery, Hinman Vineyards and King Estate. The day concludes with “Dinner in the Cellar,” which starts at 6 p.m. Fees and RSVPs are required for some activites, so fly to WingsAndWineFestival.com.

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Behind the scenes in Woodinville.

One of the toughest tickets in Northwest wine touring is the Passport to Woodinville. This year, it’s April 12-13. The Sunday-only ducats are long gone, but they print 3,500 of the full-weekend passports.

Woodinville has grown to more than 30 wineries, and this is the only time to visit them all. Several rarely open their doors to the public. And there are plenty of restrictions. You can visit each winery just once. Tickets are sold only online. And you must pick up your passport and glasses at Columbia Winery. (It appears they will need to find a new location in 2009 with the winery’s pending move to Sunnyside).

Passport tickets go for $65, a $15 bump from last year. You can grab the passport ahead of time April 5-6 — the same weekend as Taste Washington.

Passports must be purchased in advance via woodinvillewinecountry.com.

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Spring out to the Gorge. On concert nights, the Cave B Inn at Sagecliff is an attractive alternative to the drunken debauchery that — at least during the Lollapalooza era — reigned supreme in the Campground at the Gorge.

From now until April 30, you can experience the Inn, Cavern Room or a Cliffehouse as part of their “Springs Beginnings Package.” It includes a bottle of Cave B Sauvignon Blanc, two boxed picnic lunches for a hike and a wildflower guide with trails map for the Gorge. Evening turndown service will leave a packet of wildflower seeds.

Packages start at $195 per night. Call 509-785-2283 or go to sagecliffe.com.

What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

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W I N E C O U N T RY

March 29 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. Northwest wines take center stage at the 19th annual fundraiser for St. Martin’s University. Cost is $12.

Contact 360-438-4366 or go to capitalfoodandwine.com.

April 5-6 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington’s signature wine event starts Saturday with seminars at Bell Harbor and ends Sunday with the tasting at the Qwest Field Event Center. Cost starts at $85. Go to tastewashington.org.

11-12 Seventh Annual Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamins Edgefield Winery brings in winemakers and distributors from the Northwest and beyond for a Syrah showdown. Call 503-669-8610 or go to celebrationofsyrah.com.

12-13 Passport to Woodinville, Woodinville, Wash. These are the only two days of the year during which all these wineries are open to the public. Cost is $65 per person. Call 425-482-7348 or go to woodinvillewinecountry.com.

19 An Evening of Wine and Flowers, Spokane, Wash. The 17th annual auction of Washington wines and a menu to go with them raises money for St. Luke’s Rehabilitation Institute, which stages the event. Cost is $125. Call 509-789-4969 or go to festivalofwineandflowers.com.

25-27 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases the 50+ wineries in the Northwest’s oldest appellation. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

25-27 Astoria-Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival, Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries while enjoying seafood at the mouth of the Columbia River. Call 503-325-6311 or go to oldoregon.com.

May 1-10 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to owfs.com or call 250-861-6654.

2-4 Indie Wine Festival, Portland. Wineries with production of less than 2,000 cases compete for the right to pour at this multiple-day block party in the Pearl District. Cost is $60. Call 503-595-0891 or go to indiewinefestival.com.

3-4 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. This is one of two weekends during which nearly every winery is open. Call 509-526-3117 or go wallawallawine.com.

9-11 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Spokane wineries continue to open their doors to visitors on Mothers Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net.

10 Toast to the Northwest, University of Washington, Seattle. Proceeds of this third-annual event, which features more than 40 wineries throughout the Northwest, benefit the Husky Marching Band. Cost is $60. Go to toastnw.com 16-18 North Central Washington Barrel Tasting. More than 20 wineries in Chelan, Cashmere, Leavenworth, Omak, Oroville, Wenatchee and Wilbur open their doors to tourists. Call 509-782-0708 or go to columbiacascadewines.com.

24-26 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country, Willamette Valley, Ore. This is one of two regional weekends in the valley. Call 503-646-2985 or go to willamettewines.com.

June 6-8 Sun Valley Food & Wine Festival, Sun Valley, Idaho. The second annual event includes a number of Idaho wineries. A festival pass costs $190. Individual tickets are available. Call 866-305-9897 or visit sunvalleyfoodandwinefestival.com.

8 Taste Washington Spokane. The Davenport Hotel plays host to the seventh edition of this event. Cost is $85. Go to tastewashington.org.

21 Sunshine & Wine, Yakima, Wash. Sample wines that received medals at the Washington State Wine Competition while enjoying food, music and an auction at State Fair Park. Cost is $75. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com.event.

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WINE NEWS

McWatters stepping down at Okanagan’s Sumac Ridge Harry McWatters, considered the father of the modern British Columbia wine industry, is saying “see ya later.”

McWatters, 62, made the announcement in late February at the Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival, an event he has attended for 30 years.

In 2000, McWatters sold Sumac Ridge Estate Winery in Summerland, B.C., and Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards (now See Ya Later Ranch) in Okanagan Falls to Vincor, an Ontario-based wine company that owned such producers as Jackson-Triggs and Inniskillin. McWatters McWatters agreed to stay on for five years after the sale as president. That time has long passed, and Vincor now is owned by Constellation, the world’s largest wine company.

“This is by no means retirement,” McWatters wrote in a letter to industry friends, “but an opportunity to find new reasons to get out of bed in the morning and shift gears as I plan to remain active in the future growth of this great industry.”

McWatters’ last day is April 30. The next day, he will begin work on the Okanagan Wine Academy, an educational venture that will focus on the consumer experience. He also plans to finish a cookbook on B.C. cuisine that he has worked on for several years. He will remain president of Black Sage Vineyards south of Oliver.

McWatters was a founder of the Vintners Quality Alliance and the Okanagan Wine Festival Society and has served in many capacities to help tirelessly push the B.C. wine industry into the global spotlight.

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WINE NEWS

Californian buys Walla Walla’s Three Rivers The Foley Wine Group of Santa Barbara, Calif., announced in February that it is purchasing a majority interest in Three Rivers Winery near Walla Walla, Wash.

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Bill Foley owns such wineries as Foley Estates in the Santa Rita Hills, Lincourt Vineyards and Firestone Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley and Merus in the Napa Valley.

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Three Rivers opened in 1999 as the 14th winery in Walla Walla. Today, there are about 120 wineries in the valley.

Duane Wollmuth, Bud Stocking and Steve Ahler launched the winery, which quickly built a reputation for superb wines, an expansive tasting room and gift shop, a three-hole golf course and summer concerts.

Wollmuth, owner of Biscuit Ridge Vineyard in the eastern Walla Walla Valley, will maintain a minority ownership and stay on as Three Rivers’ general manager. Holly Turner will remain as winemaker under the new ownership.

Foley said in a press release: “I’m excited about the future of Three Rivers Winery. They’ve done a great job building their brand, and we look forward to helping take it to the next level. The people of Walla Walla are very supportive of their local wine industry, so I look forward to spending more time there and getting to know the area even better.”

••• A Gig Harbor, Wash., group has won a bid for a 404-acre lease on the Red Mountain AVA. The group plans to build a Tuscanstyle complex with room for 12 wineries and two dozen guestrooms.

Vintage Partners, led by Doug Long of Gig Harbor, was awarded a 55-year lease by the state Department of Natural Resources, which owns the land. Importantly, the lease comes with water, thanks to a well drilled by the Kennewick Irrigation District.

Red Mountain is Washington’s smallest American Viticultural Area at just over 4,000 acres. It is one of the warmest growing areas in the Pacific Northwest and has attracted worldwide attention for the quality of its grapes.

Last year, Col Solare, a $6 million winery owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Antinori of Italy, opened.

Other multimillion-dollar wineries such as Terra Blanca and Kiona Vineyard also have opened new facilities on Red Mountain.

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WINE VIEWS

DeLille founder passes away Charles Lill, who co-founded highly regarded DeLille Cellars in Woodinville, Wash., passed away in January.

Born in 1927, Lill emigrated from Czechoslovakia to Vancouver, British Columbia, after serving in World War II. He and his wife then moved to Seattle, where he owned an insurance business.

In 1992, Lill and his son Lill Greg launched DeLille Cellars with partners Chris Upchurch and Jay Soloff, quickly building a following for their Bordeaux-style blends, a style that was relatively unknown in Washington at the time. The winery has since grown to 10,000 cases.

In 2001, they planted an estate vineyard on Red Mountain.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Wine Club

Two Bottles of select

Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our

“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.

503-620-6691 800-288-3008

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WINE NEWS

Winemaker, ownership changes at Oregon’s Foris Foris Vineyards in southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley has made a change in ownership and winemaker.

Ted and Terri Gerber have bought out their partners and now are sole owners of the 48,000-case winery.

The Gerbers planted their first vineyard in 1974 and opened Foris in 1986.

They now manage more than 200 acres in the Illinois Valley of southern Oregon.

Bryan Wilson now is the head winemaker. He was at Benziger in Sonoma and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in Napa before moving to Oregon in 1995. He worked at several Oregon wineries, including Silvan Ridge and Del Rio. Wilson also has his own brand, called Cuckoo’s Nest.

Foris is Oregon’s 14th-largest winery and has distribution in 36 states.

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WINE VIEWS

Prosser a great place to spring into bargains By ‘BARGAIN’ BOB WOEHLER Bargain Bob is at his parsimonious best this time, finding real bargain wines in Prosser, considered by many as the cradle of the Washington wine industry.

Folks started making wines in Prosser

in the early 1970s, and the town is the home of the late Dr. Walter Clore, called the father of Washington’s modern wine grape industry.

Many wineries use Yakima Valley sources for grapes that prefer cooler climates — such as Riesling.

There has been a big growth spurt

lately of new wineries coming to the Prosser area with the latest count at a couple dozen.

Two wineries, including longtime Prosser winery fixture Hogue Cellars and the sizable Snoqualmie Vineyards nearby, offer excellent wines in the $8 range.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $7: One of my favorites.

Big and rich without being over the top on the oak and buttery feel. Lots of citrus, tropical fruit and great crispness.

Hogue Cellars 2006 Fumé Blanc, Columbia Valley, $9: If any wine defines Hogue

during the past 25 years, it is Sauvignon Blanc. Hogue may have won more national awards for its Fumé Blanc style than any winery in America.

The latest version has the classic smokiness, yet it’s crisp with grapefruit and lemon and a perfect match for shellfish, namely oysters on the half shell.

Hogue Cellars 2007 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley, $9: When they called it Pinot

Gris, it didn’t sell too well. When they changed the named to Pinot Grigio — the Italian spelling of the same grape — it sold like hot cakes. Go figure.

This is a refreshing white with vibrant fruit flavors and crisp acidity, making it versatile to pair with food. Aromas feature juicy peach, pear and apple with notes of orange blossom and nutmeg.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Whistle Stop Red, Columbia Valley, $9: An excellent bar-

gain, this straight-forward blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is smooth and fruity with hints of oak and bacon in the aromas and flavors of blueberries and dark currants.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2003 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $10: Keeping a fruity, jam-like

youthfulness, the aromas of cherries leap out of the glass and the flavors are lush, elegant and complementary.

Hogue Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $10: If you can buy a

more satisfying Cab at this price, let me know. A big, muscular red with plenty of structure, there are great berry and oak aromas and flavors with plenty of depth.

BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.

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WINE NEWS

Washington wine worth $4.7 billion to economy A new study shows the Washington wine and wine grape industries are worth $3 billion to the state and $4.7 billion nationwide.

The study, commissioned by the Washington Wine Commission and Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers, showed that winery revenues jumped 51 percent between 1999 and 2006.

Additionally, the study showed that 1.7 million wine tourists traveled to Washington in 2006, compared with 350,000 in 1999. Those tourists spent $237.6 million in 2006, compared with $18.9 million in 1999.

Taste Washington lineup This year’s Taste Washington in Seattle runs April 5-6 at Bell Harbor and Qwest Field Event Center.

The April 5 seminars include a tasting with Maximilian Riedel, an ode to David Lake, a seminar with Internet phenomenon Gary Vaynerchuk, a Riesling pairing with Wild Ginger Restaurant and a tasting of Rhône varieties grown in Washington. Seminars cost $40 to $99 each.

The Grand Tasting on April 6 will feature more than 200 wineries pouring up to three of their favorite wines.

The VIP pass ($125) gets you in at 2 p.m., while the general tasting ($85) runs from 4 to 8 p.m.

To go tastewashington.org for more.

NW wine shop directory Spring additions to our annual paid directory.

Washington Yakima, Yakima Valley BONNIE’S VINE & GIFT, 329 Wine Country Rd Prosser, WA. We carry over 150 Washington wines! Gifts. Open daily. 509-786-7000.

CASCADE WINE CO., 26 N. First St. Yakima, WA; Open Mon-Sat. 11-8 509-972-2811. cascadewine@nwinfo.net

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WINE VIEWS

Columnist bares soul at wine-writing camp

By TERI CITTERMAN Last summer, I received news congratulating me on winning an Editor’s Choice Fellowship to the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers at Meadowood Napa Valley.

Huh? Are you sure you have the right number? Apparently, Wine Press Northwest columnist Braiden RexJohnson nominated me.

So in February, my husband and I headed south. His agenda was to luxuriate in our wonderfully appointed accommodations. Mine? To attend the three-day conference with some of the top wine writers in the world: Food & Wine’s Lettie Teague, Wine Enthusiast’s Tim Moriarty, The Wine Bible’s Karen MacNeil. You get the picture.

Upon arrival, I felt anxious, much like a 10-year-old feels on her first day of overnight camp. When we pick teams for kick ball, would I be the last one standing? I reviewed the conference itinerary and realized that throughout our time together, we’d do 10-minute freewrites, then read them. Aloud.

The first day, I stayed relatively quiet, paid attention and emerged relatively unscathed. The second day, I stepped out of my shell (Shell? Yes! There was a shell!) We were asked to write a scene or character sketch in eight minutes. I chose to sketch Lettie and read it aloud: “We probably use the same hair product. Or maybe we don’t. We seem to like the same color in wardrobe choice, though perhaps her’s is dark, dark green.

“We certainly share a love of the Empire State — and discovering where a walk down Broadway can lead — all the nooks and crannies of the concrete, hidden stories, shocking experiences — though my Broadway is on the other coast. She may have a dog, but I’d peg her to have a cat, maybe two. I have two. One fell out my second story window and blasted through my neighbor’s awning. What wine do you give to apologize for that? Why Motor City Kitty by K Vintners, or W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

course! Thus my wine column was born.

“She spoke about creative style and sensibility. My readers tell me I’ve got that. Naked and confessional — they tell me they’ve learned a lot about

what used to be my private life. Could I work with her? That’s a good question.

Could she work with me? Maybe we’re too much alike. But how will we know, if we don’t give it a try?”

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2008 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year

Dunham Cellars

BY ANDY PERDUE PHOTOS B Y J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

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hen Eric Dunham was just a kid, his dad would dress him up in a tuxedo and have him help a couple of local Walla Walla winemakers at events.

Back then, there were only a couple of Walla Walla wineries: Leonetti Cellar and Woodward Canyon.

Talk about inspiration.

“They let me taste some of the wines,” Dunham admitted with a sly grin. “I started asking questions. I’ve wanted to make wine since I was 10,” said Dunham, co-owner and winemaker of Dunham Cellars, our 2008 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.

After serving in the U.S. Navy, Dunham began to make wine as a hobby. His first barrel was from the 1993 vintage, made for his father, Mike, and some friends. In 1994, he served a seven-month internship at Hogue Cellars in Washington’s Yakima Valley, then landed a job closer to home as assistant winemaker for Marty Clubb at L’Ecole No. 41 (our 2004 Winery of the Year).

In 1995, Dunham and his dad, Mike, launched Dunham Cellars with 200 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, all made at L’Ecole. On the label, it was called “Cabernet Sauvignon I,” and he’s continued to number each successive Cab. While he didn’t mean for it to happen this way, the numbering probably has made the wine more collectible.

Dunham’s entry was part of the beginning of the Walla Walla Valley’s boom era. Canoe Ridge had launched the year prior, then 34

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Dunham, Walla Walla Vintners and Glen Fiona got going, giving the region 10 wineries. Today, there are more than 120 in the Walla Walla Valley. Like many, Dunham shakes his head when he hears the latest winery count in his hometown.

“It’s all good so far,” he said.

“Everybody’s coming in with a quality-minded approach. The better part of it for me is the restaurants. When I started, the best restaurant was 30 miles away (Patit Creek). Now we have some amazing chefs from all over the world come in here to open restaurants. They’re being supported by the wine industry, which is growing. This town didn’t grow for 50 years, and now it’s grown quite a bit. It’s able to support the

GETTING TO DUNHAM CELLARS

➤ Address: 150 E. Boeing Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362 ➤ Phone: 509-529-4685 ➤ Web site: dunhamcellars.com ➤ Hours: Tasting room open 11 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. $5 refundable tasting fee. ➤ Directions: Driving east on Highway 12, take the Port of Walla Walla exit east of downtown, then turn left and drive into the airport. Turn right just after Walla Walla Roasters (a good bet for espresso). The winery is on the right. RV hookups are available (call ahead).

wine industry, the art industry and the music industry that are popping out here.”

Dunham’s second vintage began inauspiciously. A terrible winter wiped out nearly half the state’s vineyards. Dunham scrambled to find grapes and managed to produce just 75 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon. The following year, he added a Semillon called Shirley Mays, which honors his grandmother, who died of breast cancer.

Proceeds from that wine — now a Chardonnay — are donated for breast cancer research.

By 1999, Dunham was ready to go out on his own, so he left L’Ecole and the family moved into a former World War II airplane hangar at the Walla Walla Airport east of downtown.

That year, he added Syrah to his lineup. The red Rhône grape was just becoming popular in Washington, and Dunham was a fan.

“Syrah does really well for us,” he said. “It’s probably my favorite drinking wine.”

He quickly showed his mastery with the grape. His 2000 vintage earned a Platinum in our year-end best-of-the-best competition in 2002.

The next year, his 2001 Syrah earned a unanimous Double Platinum, the only such award we gave in 2003.

The next year, his 2002 earned a Double Gold in the judging, which requires that a wine win a gold medal in another competition to gain entry. In our Fall 2006 issue, Dunham’s 2003 Columbia Valley Syrah and 2003 Lewis Vineyard Syrah each earned our top “Outstanding”

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Eric Dunham pushes open one of the doors at Dunham Cellars.

rating in a peer-group judging of 129 Northwest Syrahs.

And last fall, his 2004 Columbia Valley Syrah again earned a Double Platinum and was deemed the “best of the best” by our international judging panel.

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These days, Dunham bottles three Syrahs: the Columbia Valley, Lewis Vineyard and Frenchtown Vineyard.

Lewis is a favorite vineyard source for Dunham. It’s in the Yakima Valley between Red Mountain and Rattlesnake Mountain. He has gotten

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from Lewis for many years. He started out using the vineyard as insurance against the occasional winter that can devastate the Walla Walla Valley (such as 2004, which wiped out 90 percent of the valley’s crop).

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winery of the year

Maysy, one of the three border collies at Dunham Cellars.

AWARDS INFO H O W T H E PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T W I N E RY OF THE YEAR IS CHOSEN

The Winery of the Year is selected by a panel of industry judges based on a set of criteria, including longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations. A winery may win the award only once.

PA S T PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T W I N E R I E S OF THE YEAR

➤ 2007: Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston, Ore. ➤ 2006: Barnard Griffin, Richland, Wash.

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2005: Ken Wright Cellars, Carlton, Ore. ➤ 2004: L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash. ➤ 2003: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. ➤ 2002: Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash. ➤

HOW THE REGIONAL WINERIES OF THE YEAR ARE CHOSEN

Regional wineries of the year are selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest based on blind tastings, visits, accolades and other considerations.

Wineries of the Year must have completed at least five vintages, while Wineries to Watch must have been in business no more than five years.

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2007 WINNERS

➤ Washington Winery of the Year: Thurston Wolfe, Prosser ➤ Washington Winery to Watch: St. Laurent, Malaga ➤ Oregon Winery of the Year: Cathedral Ridge, Hood River ➤ Oregon Winery to Watch: Velocity Cellars, Medford ➤ British Columbia Winery of the Year: Wild Goose Vineyards ➤ British Columbia Winery to Watch: Joie, Naramata ➤ Idaho Winery of the Year: Camas Prairie, Moscow ➤ Idaho Winery to Watch: TimberRock, Post Falls

“It started out as protection,” he said. “Now I love it for my blending options. (Lewis) gives me a lot more tools to work with in my cellar. I love it.”

Most of the time, his Cabernet Sauvignon is 100 percent Lewis, while the Syrah is a blend.

“Lewis is jammy, while the Walla Walla vineyards are more Rhônelike,” he said. “Lewis always has great acidity, as well.”

Also in 1999, the Dunhams had the idea to start a second winery called Trey Marie. While the Dunham wines were focused on single varieties such as Cab and Syrah, Trey Marie would be all about blends. The flagship wine was a Bordeaux-style red called Trutina.

While the wine enjoyed critical acclaim, the concept never caught on with the wine-drinking public as Dunham had. Ultimately, the winery was dissolved and Trutina was folded into the Dunham lineup. Oddly, it’s been a blockbuster since then,

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winery of the year becoming the winery’s biggest seller at 6,000 cases per year.

He’s also added the wildly popular Three Legged Red, a kitchen-sink blend that usually has Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc in the mix. In the French tradition, Dunham will “declassify” barrels in the winery that don’t quite fit into his top-tier wines. Instead, they end up in a delicious and nicely priced wine.

The wine is named for Port, Dunham’s beloved border collie.

Back when he was at Hogue, Dunham saw the dog being attacked by a pit bull. He rescued the dog and financed his recovery, which included the loss of a front leg.

Today, two more border collies have the run of the winery grounds while 13-year-old Port takes it easy.

Dunham also makes Four Legged White, named for Mike’s dog, Maysy.

It is primarily Riesling with some Chardonnay. This year, Dunham also will release 500 cases of a Lewis Vineyard Riesling.

Today, Dunham makes 40,000 cases of wine, and it’s a full-time job for Eric, as well as his parents, Mike and Joanne. Eric and Mike each own 25 percent of the winery, while David Blair of Bellingham and Dan Sandy of Olympia each own the remaining 25 percent.

This winter, they hired Dan Wampfler to be co-winemaker.

Wampfler came from Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge Estate. His brother, Mark Wampfler, left Col Solare and Columbia Crest to become Dunham’s cellarmaster.

For Dunham, the Wampfler boys bring much-needed technical background, with Dan having a master’s degree in chemistry.

“I take more of an artistic approach to the wine,” Dunham said. “I needed backup in the cellar with the technical side. I have no problem admitting my weaknesses,” he added with a chuckle. “I’m a little more of a chaos guy. Dan is way

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Eric Dunham and his parents, Mike and Joanne Dunham.

more organized.”

Dunham’s free-thinking artistry has another outlet: painting. It all started when he had friends over one evening. They got to playing music, cooking food and drinking wine. At some point, Dunham became inspired and began to paint.

“It’s a great release for me,” he said. “It’s a unique way to create labels, and I’m even starting to sell some of my originals.”

His style could best be described as Impressionistic.

“They’re really all over the board,” he said. “I’m on the infant side of my development. I might take lessons some day, but successful artist

friends say that I shouldn’t, that I should just keep painting. I’m just lucky it’s not my day job.”

And his winemaking is an art.

“I’ve been working with the same vineyards for a long time and am slowly learning what the fruit can do,” he said. “My style is to keep my hands off the wine and let the fruit itself show what it wants, rather than trying to manipulate it too much.” ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest.

He can be reached at 509-582-1405 or editor@winepressnw.com. Read his blog, The Wine Knows, at comunity.winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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California to begin studying viticulture at UC Davis. In February 1978, Myron Redford, a friend from the University of Washington who had recently launched Amity Vineyards, called Terry and told him about a great piece of property for sale in the hills near him.

The Casteels converged from north and south, fell in love with the place and bought it.

They quickly began to add to the 14 acres already planted, getting to 51 acres of vineyards by 1981. In 1984, they built the winery and harvested the grapes for their first vintage, with Ted in charge of viticulture Terry Casteel discusses and Terry overseeing the plans for Bethel Heights winemaking.

Vineyard.

“It was the vintage from PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM hell,” Terry not-so-fondly recalled.

Bud break was quite late, flowering didn’t occur until July, and the grapes didn’t begin to change color until September. Bethel Heights was one of the few wineries in the state to harvest Pinot Noir above 20 brix and one of only five wineries to make red wine from that vintage.

Salem, Ore. “We figured it couldn’t get any worse,” Terry added. “It was a real

BY ANDY PERDUE nightmare.”

Terry still managed to make a or three decades, Bethel Pinot Noir that won a gold medal at Heights Vineyard has been the Tri-Cities Wine Festival, an auspiabout family and a passion for cious beginning indeed.

Pinot Noir.

That first vintage, Oregon had perThe story of our 2008 Oregon haps 25 wineries. In the Eola-Amity Winery of the Year is the story of Hills where the Casteels had set up twin brothers, Terry and Ted Casteel. shop, there were only two. Today, In the mid-’70s, Ted and his wife, Oregon has 370 wineries, 30 of which Pat, were teaching history in are in the Eola-Amity Hills region.

Michigan, while Terry and his wife, One phenomenon that affects Marilyn, taught psychology in Bethel Heights and other nearby Seattle. The two couples fell in love vineyards is the Van Duzer Corridor, with wine, and Terry started making a gap in the Coast Range that gives wine at home. On vacations togethbreezes from the Pacific Ocean a er, they would talk about planting a direct line to the Eola-Amity Hills. vineyard and starting a winery.

“We get as warm (during the day) In 1977, Ted and Pat moved to

Bethel Heights Vineyard

F

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as everyone else,” Terry said. “But we get cooler in the evening. This means better retention of acidity throughout the ripening process, so our wines always tend to have a pure fruit character. I think we do well in the vintages where there’s more than significant heat,” he added. “Heat is one of the enemies of Pinot Noir. When you have a summer that is too hot, we tend to fare better than others.”

Then there are years like 2007, when the rains came and never seemed to stop. For the Casteels, they’d seen it all before.

“We’re feeling very good about our ’07s,” Terry said. “I’m frankly surprised the wines are as good as they are with all the rain we saw. Our viticulture was top notch. We didn’t have any disease. I think we made a very good wine out of this vintage, and we’re pleased with that.”

Terry also is pleased to be working with his son, Ben, who has been with Bethel Heights for three years and shares the title of co-winemaker.

Ben, 30, spent a vintage in Burgundy, then worked at Rex Hill Vineyards before moving home in 2005.

At first, father and son were reticent about working so closely together, as discussions in the cellar can be heated. Any concerns seemed to dissipate quickly, however.

“We have long talks about winemaking,” Ben said. “One of my favorite things about being here is working with my dad. We’ve always gotten along well, so it’s been pretty easy.”

Today, the brothers and their families produce 13,000 cases of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

“We’re making a generational transition,” Terry said. “We’re doing it in such a way that we can pass the torch and empty our heads out for them. But,” he added with a chuckle, “I’m not slowing down much, either.” ı Bethel Heights Vineyard, 6060 Bethel Heights Road N.W., Salem, Ore., 503-5812262, bethelheights.com

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the Anderson, Russian River and Santa Maria valleys.

In 1998, he was at a wine event in Jackson Hole, Wyo., and met Sue Scarlett. Each had recently divorced after two decades of marriage.

After the meeting, they began to correspond, writing honest-to-goodness letters that shared each others’ hopes and dreams. By June 1999, Sue moved to California.

They wanted to plant a vineyard and began to search for the right place. Turns out that place was Elkton.

“Pinot Noir has been grown in Elkton since 1972,” Brandborg said. “It reminded me of the Anderson Valley and Mendocino County.”

They began to research soil and weather data, both PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM of which confirmed their gut feelings that this place would be perfect for growing Pinot Noir.

In April 2001, they married, and in January 2002, they moved to Elkton after purchasing 145 acres of land in the hills above town, where their home provides inspiring views of the Umpqua Valley. So far, they’ve planted five acres — all Pinot Noir — with Elkton, Ore. the goal of having 50 to 60 acres.

BY ANDY PERDUE Their original plan did not include building a winery right on the highne doesn’t quite know way through town. where life will lead, especial“Everything fell into place like it ly when Pinot Noir is a facwas meant to be,” Brandborg said. tor. Terry Brandborg likely never “It was incredibly easy.” thought he’d end up in Elkton, Ore., They ended up with a bigger not after growing up in San building, which gave them more Francisco and loving the big-city life. room in both retail and cellar space.

Yet here is our 2008 Oregon And there was little red tape in the Winery to Watch, in a town where way. Brandborg showed up at city wine barrels outnumber people by a hall on a Friday and got a site applifive-to-one margin. cation. Over the weekend, he Back in the mid-’80s, Brandborg designed the winery, then took it set up a winery in Richmond, Calif. back Monday morning and got his It was a rough neighborhood, but he building permit. By Thanksgiving got along well with his neighbors weekend 2002, Brandborg Vineyard and began to work with cool-climate & Winery was open to the public. grape varieties from such areas as The 2002 vintage was 2,500 cases,

which has expanded to 8,600 cases today. Brandborg also does some custom winemaking for other producers, which amounts to another 4,400 cases of wine he makes. He crafts Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Syrah from a variety of sources in the Umpqua Valley.

A primary focus is Pinot Noir, of which he makes no fewer than five different bottlings. One is from the estate Ferris Wheel Vineyard, and another is called “Love Puppets Pinot Noir.” The story goes that, during the long-distance courtship, Sue sent Terry a refrigerator magnet that showed a couple holding hands on a carnival ride with the caption, “Love Puppets on a Ferris Wheel.”

Now, the two love puppets are loving life in small-town Oregon.

“We’re a ma-and-pa operation,” Brandborg said. “We’re passionate about what we’re doing. Elkton has turned out to be a very interesting community with old ranch families and lots of artists.”

The Brandborgs began to offer live music a couple of years ago in the nicely sized tasting room. Their proximity to Eugene has meant a number of high-quality musicians coming through town, which the Brandborgs have taken full advantage of to the delight of other residents.

Today, Elkton has four wineries with another on the way and plans for a 15-acre vineyard to be planted next year. For this rural area, that’s a veritable wine boom. But Brandborg doesn’t figure the town will explode in size, and he still has a hankering for the bright lights.

“I’m a city kid, and I can’t stay here 365 days a year,” he said.

“While we are on the road marketing around the country, it is fun to visit cities and explore. It’s nice to hike on pavement once in awhile.”

And, we presume, ride on the occasional ferris wheel. ı

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Terry and Sue Brandborg

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery

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Brandborg Vineyard & Winery, 345 First St., Elkton, Ore. 541-584-2870, brandborgwine.com.

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washington winery of the year

And it’s timed to the arrival of winemaker Hillary Sjolund.

“I’ve been trying to get good scores for the Sauvignon Blanc for years,” Newton said with a chuckle, “and she does it with the first wine that she releases.”

That was Sjolund’s first as a head winemaker after three years as assistant winemaker at Pine Ridge, a famed 70,000-case winery in Napa Valley.

“This was an opportunity to step out on my own creatively,” she said. “Mark basically handed me a winery and said, ‘Here’s 7,000 cases and don’t screw it up.’ ” Instead, the 27-year-old Hillary Sjolund from Manchester, Calif., and Mark ratcheted up the quality at Newton the winery Newton first PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM launched 25 years ago in the Seattle neighborhood of Ballard.

DiStefano’s 2005 Viognier from the Columbia Valley, which Sjolund put the finishing touches on, ranked No. 2 in our 2007 judging of 39 Northwest Viogniers. It’s noteworthy Woodinville, Wash. that the other “Outstanding” wines

BY ERIC DEGERMAN in the competition were of the 2006 vintage, so Sjolund helped keep the hen it comes to “what have 2005 fresh. you done for me lately,” “I can take some credit for that, DiStefano Winery did it but not all of it,” she said. back-to-back in Wine Press A couple of months later, the 2003 Northwest single-blind competitions Domenica — a tribute to Donna’s during 2007.

Italian immigrant grandmother, an Mark Newton earned and mainamateur winemaker — outscored all tained respect for his Woodinville, others in our 2007 judging of 120 Wash., winery years ago. However, Northwest Merlots. chart-topping showings and versatiliAnd the 2007 season began with ty in peer judgings — first for the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon grabViognier, then Merlot — have bing gold at the San Francisco brought he and wife, Donna International Wine Competition.

DiStefano, another honor: 2008 “You have a direction and a plan Washington Winery of the Year. and a hope for each one of those barrels, and I have copious notes on “People are realizing that we’ve each one,” Sjolund said. been making pretty good wines for a A quick study she is, but a love of long time, but the wines today are science first led Sjolund down a tasting really well,” Newton said.

DiStefano Winery

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much different path as a freshman at the University of California-Davis.

“I was going there to be a surgeon. That was my ambition,” she said. “I had to take an elective, and Carole Meredith was teaching an introduction to winemaking class. It fit perfectly into my timeslot, and I just fell in love with it.

“Mom and Dad weren’t crazy about that at the beginning — especially when I called them as a freshman and told them, ‘I think I want to start making wine. Will you pay for my education to do that?’ ” she added.

By 2000, Sjolund still was a student when she landed a lab tech position in the high-rent Stags Leap District.

“I wasn’t even legal to drink when I started at Pine Ridge as an intern, but I loved titrating and being the lab rat and taking samples,” she said with a smile. “It was pretty pathetic, but it’s what I loved to do. And I still love it.”

Her job description with Newton, a computer hardware product developer, includes consulting at the adjacent EnoLab, which tests samples for commercial and amateur winemakers.

“It’s expanding all the time,” Sjolund said. “People bring in samples and say, ‘Taste this and tell me what you think.’ Sometimes, that’s a loaded question.”

Still, she finds time to enjoy her new stomping grounds. “I love going to baseball games,” she said. “I was a big Giants fan, but now that I’m in the Northwest, I watch the Mariners. And I go the ballet or go out to restaurants.”

There also is some business travel.

“I get a lot more opportunity to step out in the vineyards, work with growers and talk with growers,” she said. “There’s so much activity in Washington. It’s the gem that’s being discovered. People are flocking up here — Pine Ridge purchased property (in the Horse Heaven Hills) — so it’s an exciting place to be.” ı DiStefano Winery, 12280 Woodinville Dr. SE, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-4871648, distefanowinery.com.

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Katy and Milum Perry with pooches, Ruby, left, and Jake.

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more like a European lifestyle — living like peasants and doing it in a modern world. For us, it’s the whole package. Making great wine is something that we are completely immersed in.”

The Perrys have established that. The Tildio 2005 Sauvignon Blanc grabbed our attention to the extent that we featured it in a Match Maker food/wine pairing project in 2006.

Last year, the Tildio 2004 Zinfandel from the Columbia Valley picked up a gold medal at the Northwest Wine Summit.

In double-blind judgings, the wines by Perry, 49, also shine. The 2006 Viognier PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon received Excellent ratings. Her 2006 Chardonnay earned an Outstanding.

Her 2005 Malbec, 2005 Estate Syrah and 2005 Profundo — a red blend — also got our top rating.

Manson, Wash.

Grapes from her vineyard sources don’t make a long journey. The

BY ERIC DEGERMAN Sauvignon Blanc comes from Evergreen near George and the aty Perry doesn’t seem in Homestead Chardonnay is from need of any advice at her tiny Quincy. Merlot arrives from Weinbau winery in the Chelan Valley, and Cabernet Sauvignon from and that’s no surprise considering her RiverBend, both off the Wahluke resumé, background and education.

Slope. There’s also her prized acre She’s yet another member of the of Malbec from Stillwater Creek in elite Chateau Ste. Michelle alumni the Frenchman Hills. The rest is association, and the “University of from their Roses Lake estate.

CSM” can be proud that Perry’s “The Stillwater Creek Malbec I Tildio Winery has earned our 2008 won’t give up for anything,” she said.

Washington Winery to Watch award.

“When Mike Januik said I need to buy Some of her former co-workers their fruit, I wrote that down in ink.” might even be a bit jealous of the Her trust in Januik began in 2000 8-acre lake-view estate and 2,000-case during her three-year career at Ste. operation she and husband, Milum, Michelle. That job made travel to grew from the ground up in Manson. family functions much easier for Perry, who grew up on Seattle’s “We planted it; we farm it, and we Phinney Ridge before a family move live at the winery,” she said. “We’re to California. not winery ‘owners.’ We’re on the The University of California-Davis tractor, pruning, picking and workalum then worked 14 years in ing every facet of the winery. It’s

California at Robert Mondavi, Geyser Peak, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and finally MacRostie.

“Ste. Michelle gave me the opportunity to come home,” Perry said.

“Kendall Mix (Canoe Ridge, now Corliss Estates in Walla Walla), Erik Olsen (Clos du Bois in Sonoma) and I worked side by side,” she said. “There was Ron Bunnell and Bob Betz, and Mike Januik was across the street.”

Along the way, Perry (née Smith) met Milum on a chair lift at Stevens Pass. The courtship prompted her to spend two years as Tsillan Cellars’ winemaker, getting the wines ready for the Chelan destination winery’s grand opening in 2004.

By 2005, the Perrys opened Tildio.

“There were hundreds of killdeer breeding on the property, and I was dealing with the nesting killdeer,” Milum said. “It seemed appropriate to name the winery after them, but ‘killdeer’ is a terrible sounding name. So I went online and surfed for ‘killdeer.’ I found the Spanish name for the bird — tildio. And it had a nice ring to it.”

The nearby lakes explain why tourists flock to the area and why grapes fare well in the pending American Viticultural Area.

“We have a petition with the federal government for a Chelan Valley AVA, and there are enough distinctive qualities about the valley to support it,” she said. “I’m all for pointing these out because it points out the diversity of Washington.”

Her portfolio includes Cabernet Franc, Riesling, and Tempranillo, with Grenache in the future. Despite her high scores with Zinfandel, which she deemed “really challenging,” it won’t be back.

“We are pretty much where we want to stay, and we don’t see any need to grow larger. Otherwise, we’d have to pay to have our vineyard picked,” she said. “Besides, I don’t run across a lot of people doing the same thing we are.” ı

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Tildio Winery, 70 E. Wapato Lake Rd, Manson, WA, 509-687-8463, tildio.com.

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tives before deciding on wine grapes.

They found property next to Peter in Okanagan Centre, about 10 miles north of Kelowna, and began planting their vineyard in 1972.

At first, they planted Maréchal Foch, a French hybrid that was quite popular then in British Columbia — not for its quality but for its quantity. George never cared much for the grape, so the couple turned to classic European wine grapes, including Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Auxerrois.

In 1982, the Heisses opened Gray Monk. They got the name from Trudy’s native Austria, which calls George and Pinot Gris “Grauar Mönch.”

Trudy Heiss Translated, the grayish-colPHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM ored grape is known as “gray monk.” The Heisses were part of a group that fought to open the province to estate or “cottage” wineries. Such wineries needed to have 20 acres of land, could sell up to 50 percent of their grape production and could Okanagan Centre, B.C. make no more than 30,000 gallons

BY ANDY PERDUE of wine per year.

Today, no such rules exist. And or George and Trudy Heiss, back then, there were fewer than 10 making wine has never been wineries in the Okanagan Valley. about getting rich or famous.

Today, it’s closing in on 150.

It’s been about doing what you love.

George shakes his head when he The Heiss family loves to make thinks about the number of wineries. wine, make people happy — and “Honestly, we didn’t have a clue make people laugh. The quality of what was going to happen to this wine at our 2008 British Columbia valley. It was so new that nobody Winery of the Year speaks for itself. really knew.”

In the 1960s, long before they Today, the second generation of caught the winemaking bug, George Heisses is deeply involved. and Trudy were well-known hair stylGeorge Jr. trained as a winemaker ists in Edmonton, Alberta. Trudy’s in Germany for four years. He father, Hugo Peter, was growing returned home in 1984 and has grapes in the Okanagan Valley, so been responsible for the Gray Monk they decided to change the direcwines since. tion their lives were going and Bob, the Heisses’ eldest son, overmoved to British Columbia. They sees the winery’s daily operation. considered many farming alternaAnd the youngest son, Steven, looks

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after inventory and shipping and deals with various liquor boards in different provinces.

They make 21 different wines, ranging from Merlots and Pinot Noirs to a Kerner dessert wine. By far, the most popular wine is Gray Monk’s flagship, Pinot Gris.

Customers also gravitate toward the Latitude 50 series. Named for the winery’s northerly climes, the red, white and rosé wines are fresh, fruitdriven and moderately priced.

Gray Monk is one of the few wineries in B.C. to have made headway in distributing its wines south of the border, and has steady sales in Washington. About 90 percent of its wines are sold in British Columbia and Alberta, with a little bit getting as far as Manitoba and Saskachewan.

But it doesn’t have enough wine left for any of the eastern provinces.

About 15 percent of its 70,000 cases are sold through the popular tasting room and adjacent restaurant, the Grapevine Restaurant and Patio.

The restaurant opened a halfdozen years ago and gazes upon Gray Monk’s vineyard, Okanagan Lake and the surrounding valley.

Willi Franz and Rene Haudenschild are highly regarded chefs in Kelowna and oversee the kitchen.

Willi’s wife, Marie, runs the hospitality side of the restaurant.

In the cellar with George Jr. are Brent Drought, who has been at Gray Monk for 26 years; and Roger Wong, a highly regarded winemaker who worked at Pinot Reach and focuses on red wines.

In addition to making high-quality, modestly priced wines, the owners of Gray Monk are famous for enjoying life and cracking jokes. George Sr. is always ready with a new one, often aimed at Québécois.

“They’re easy targets” he said with his trademark belly laugh. “If you can’t laugh, you might as well bury me.” ı Gray Monk Estate Winery, 1055 Camp Road, Okanagan Centre, B.C., 250-7663168, www.graymonk.com.

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Thomas and Anthony Burée, Le Vieux Pin is focused on making wines the likes of which have not been produced in the stillburgeoning Okanagan Valley.

“There’s a lot of good wine out there,” Bontorin said. “We’re not competing with the Okanagan Valley.

We’re competing with France, with the rest of the world. Oregon’s doing it, Napa’s doing it and Washington’s doing it.”

To reach that level, Le Vieux Pin is willing to use hyper-low yields, often below a ton per acre, to get the level of concentration Winemaker Daniel and flavor Bontorin seeks in Bontorin, right, and the final product. He knows vineyard manager that will mean higher alcoHarold Gaudy. hols, and he’s OK with that.

His wines tend to have softCONTRIBUTED PHOTO er acids, more aggressive tannins, mild oak and lots of big, concentrated flavors. To get there, his grapes are hand picked and hand sorted twice before being crushed and fermented in 25 to 40 percent new French oak. No Oliver, B.C. expense seemingly is spared. In fact, the group spent $9 million the first

BY ANDY PERDUE year on land, equipment and conn a country where French is an struction. It owns 45 acres of vineofficial language, the folks at one yards, all in the south Okanagan. of the Okanagan Valley’s newest The focus on quality means a botproducers are taking their Gallic tle of wine with prices not often leanings to an entirely different seen in the Okanagan — except, level. perhaps, for ice wine. A Merlot Le Vieux Pin means “View of the known as Époque retails for $45, Pine” and refers to a mature pine and a Merlot called Apogée goes for tree near the French farmhouse$65, while a Pinot Noir called Belle is style building in the south $45. At restaurants in the Lower Okanagan’s Black Sage Bench.

Mainland, typical markups will put “Everything is made in the French those wines at or above $100 per style,” said Daniel Bontorin, Le Vieux bottle. Thus, Le Vieux Pin targets Pin’s winemaker. “The building style, restaurants with international wine the wine style. We try to do everylists rather than regional to avoid thing in the French tradition.” inevitable sticker shock. So far, most Owned by the three partners of of the wines are selling at the winery Enotecca Winery and Resorts in and through such Vancouver restauVancouver, Sean Salem, Gregory rants as Lumiere, Sanafir, Gastropod,

Tojo’s and Joe Fortes.

“People are willing to pay a higher price for something that hasn’t come from the Okanagan before,” he said.

Bontorin has been making wine in the Okanagan Valley for a few years, serving as an assistant winemaker at Hester Creek, Tinhorn Creek, Pentage and Hillside. In 2005, he spent several weeks in Italy to look for new ideas to bring back for Le Vieux Pin. That fall was his first as a head winemaker, and he produced 1,500 cases. That rose to 2,900 cases in 2006, then 2,000 cases last fall.

The winery has a maximum capacity of 3,500 cases.

“Our goal is to make the best quality no matter what,” Bontorin said.

“If all we can do is 100 cases of a variety, that’s all we’ll do that year.”

The hard work already is paying off. Its Pinot Noir scored an “Outstanding” rating in this issue, and its Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blanc are earning high marks across Canada.

And the group continues to move forward. The owners are getting ready to launch two more wineries, called Lastella and Selóna. Each will have a different focus, different price points and perhaps different winemakers. By this fall, Bontorin plans to be the winemaker for Lastella, which would seem to have an Italian flair closer to his own heritage.

Le Vieux Pin’s style, vision and focus have caused some hard feelings around the Okanagan wine industry. That isn’t getting in Bontorin’s or his bosses’ way.

“I know a lot of people don’t like us,” he said. “Personally, I don’t care if we ruffle feathers. They should be happy we’re making this wine because we’re helping to increase their prices, too. We’re not trying to be snobbish about it. That’s just the way we’re doing this.” ı

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at his winery with “Cheers to 25 Years” printed on labels. And despite a devastating winter kill, Stowe’s commitment to quality and consumer-minded prices led to Indian Creek receiving our 2008 Idaho Winery of the Year.

“It’s hard to believe I’m still here, to tell you the truth,” Stowe said. “Idaho is a hard place to start at. Laws were not favorable, and half of our population base is of the faith that they don’t drink alcohol. Interest rates were 21 percent under Jimmy Carter, Mike McClure and you could not get and Bill Stowe a bank loan.

“So I’ve been fighting the demons for about 25 years, and I PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM didn’t start this when I was young,” Stowe said with a chuckle.

“I’m kind of old now. I’m almost 69.”

And yet he and his young winemaker, Mike McClure, continue to produce some of the best values in the Northwest wine industry.

“I have a hard time shooting up the price, but we’re inching them up,” Kuna, Idaho Stowe said. “Just having ‘Idaho’ on the label all those years has been kind

BY ERIC DEGERMAN of hard. Distributors sometimes are hard nuts to crack. The Snake River ome may view Bill Stowe as the Valley AVA already is helping a lot.”

Don Quixote of the Idaho wine His 2005 Ruby Port won gold at industry. the Northwest Wine Summit. One of However, his enduring Indian the top values in the Northwest each Creek Winery validates the romantic year is Indian Creek’s Star Garnet vision Stowe holds for the state he ($14), and the 2005 earned our top was born and raised in. rating in 2007. It’s a Bordeaux and “Without Bill, we wouldn’t have a Syrah blend of estate fruit and wine industry in Idaho,” said Greg grapes from best friend Dennis Koenig of Koenig Vineyards in McArthur’s Wood River Vineyards.

Caldwell. “He’s the godfather for a The Indian Creek 2005 Wood lot of us. I’m tremendously grateful River Vineyards Merlot ($13) to Bill.” received an Excellent in our Merlot In 2007, Stowe observed a milestone

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judging. The 2005 Malbec — Indian Creek’s second bottling of the variety — was voted Best Red at the 2007 Idaho Wine Festival.

“We priced the Malbec at $29,” Stowe said with a tone of embarrassment. “I’d never had a wine even in the $20s before. The new (2006) Malbec will be down to $21.”

The awards helped soothe the brutal blow that came with the reawakening of spring at Stowe Vineyard, which sits at 2,626 feet elevation.

“We only got bud break in about 10 percent of our vines,” Stowe said.

“Trunks and arms were cracked open, so we proceeded to chop the vineyard down. We were left with about 10 percent of a crop. The strange thing was the Riesling was totaled. And my Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are pretty much site specific, so there was not any way we could replace that production.”

Production at Indian “Crick” — as Stowe pronounces it — was 3,800 cases in 2006. Last year, it fell to 1,800. He’s hoping for 5,000 cases in 2008, and so he’ll lean harder on McClure, 25.

“He’s been going with my daughter Tammy for six years and working for me for four years,” Stowe said.

“They both are good tasters, unlike the old man. Mike is pretty much making the winemaking decisions.

I’m still putting in the hours, I’m just not doing the heavy lifting.”

Unfortunately, 2008 didn’t start off well, either, as a January windstorm damaged his house, which is part of the winery’s picturesque grounds.

“The first 22 years, I worked in the Air Force for other people. That was my vacation,” Stowe quipped. “The second 25 years? That’s been my punishment. I saved my marriage, though, when I bought an automatic bottling line.” ı Indian Creek Winery, 1000 N. McDermott Road, Kuna, Idaho, 208-9224791, www.indiancreekwinery.com. The winery’s recently launched blog is at www.indiancreekwinery.blogspot.com

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Owner Roger Williamson, back left, with his children, Mike, the vineyard manager; and Beverly, the sales director, at Williamson Vineyards.

PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

Williamson Vineyards Caldwell, Idaho

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

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ny winemaker knows it all comes down to the fruit.

In the case of Williamson Vineyards, it started with something other than grapes.

Roger and John Williamson branched out from the family orchard business in 1999 by planting grapevines on 28 acres in Caldwell, Idaho. And within three years, their Sunny Slope vineyard attracted attention.

“People ask me why their grapes are so good,” said neighboring winemaker Greg Koenig, whose brother, Andy, uses Williamson orchard fruit at his famed Koenig Distillery. “It’s a great site and they are very skilled farmers, and they are so willing to listen to anybody. There’s no arrogance or stubbornness.”

Their return on investment came early and continues, which explains

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why Williamson Vineyards received our 2008 Idaho Winery to Watch.

Last year, the Williamson Vineyards 2004 Syrah from the Snake River Valley grabbed a gold medal and its 2005 Riesling a silver at the Pacific Rim International Wine Competition in San Bernardino, Calif.

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon took gold at the 2007 Tasters Guild as well as bronze at both the International Eastern Wine Competition and the Northwest Wine Summit. The 2005 Viognier won silver at the Idaho Wine Festival.

The big winner was the 2006 Late Harvest Viognier, which brought home a gold medal and best dessert wine at the Idaho Wine Festival.

Partial credit for those medals belongs to Koenig, who makes the Williamson Vineyards wines.

“People do give him a bit of a hard time whenever our wines do better in competitions than his own wines,” said Beverly Williamson, the director of sales. “He’s awesome about it, though, and laughs along with the rest of us.”

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2001 when the vines, planted at the request of Ste. Chapelle, were in their third “leaf ” or growing season.

“I used to walk my dogs past their vines, and that first year the grapes were so beautiful,” Koenig said.

“They were all contracted out, but I told Roger, ‘Please let me make a barrel of Cabernet and a barrel of Syrah. Let’s ferment it and see what it will do.’ And it was ‘Wow!’ ” Some found its way into Koenig’s own 2004 Reserve Syrah — Idaho’s most expensive wine. Much of it, however, ended up in an $8 off-dry blend.

“At the time, Roger was nervous just how the vines were going to do,” Koenig said.

Now, Williamson Vineyards has Koenig produce six bottlings, including a fortified Syrah, but less than 1,000 cases. There are plans to grow with the addition of Mourvèdre — another Rhône variety — and Sangiovese.

“I’m a fourth-generation Williamson, and there are seven Williamsons working on the farm,” Beverly said. “We have a cousin, Patrick (Williamson), who is going to Walla Walla Community College for enology, and he’s going to transfer to Washington State University to continue with horticulture.

“We’re hoping to have him work with Greg and follow in Greg’s footsteps, but we hope we can continue to work with Greg indefinitely,” she added. “He’s very much soughtafter.”

Koenig said, “My goal would be to continue with them for a long, long time.”

In fact, he recently purchased 10 acres adjacent to the Williamsons’ vines for his new 10,000-case winery and vineyard.

“Their grapes are why we’re really excited about Idaho wine,” Koenig said. “Especially Syrah and Viognier.” ı Williamson Vineyards, 19692 Williamson Lane, Caldwell, Idaho, 208-459-7333, willorch.com.

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F E AT U R E Michael Florentino Cellars is one of the lines of wines made by Mike Haddox available at The Winemaker’s Loft.

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Lofty dream Nightmare doesn’t derail Winemaker’s Loft in Prosser, Wash.

B Y M A RY H O P K I N PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

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massive arched door that’s hand-hewn from solid knotty alder serves as the main entryway to Mike Haddox’s dream — The Winemaker’s Loft.

It took nearly three years and $2 million to build. Two of the six tasting rooms within the Tuscanstyle, V-shaped villa at Vintners Village in Prosser, Wash., still await tenants. But for Haddox, completing the project and opening the doors has been a healing process.

Haddox set out to make his good life better still when he took on the project. He was general manager for Silver Lake Winery in Zillah, Wash., and winemaker for Glen Fiona in Walla Walla.

He had a supportive, beautiful wife, Dana Arevalo-Haddox, and two teenage children.

Yet he yearned to put his name on something he could call his own.

And Dana knew how to balance her ambitious husband.

“She was reality and could pull me back,” he said. “I’d known her since I was in eighth grade, and we were a

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really awesome team.”

So in 2004, Haddox bought the land for his dream from the Port of Benton and left Silver Lake to build the 10,000-square-foot upscale winery incubator and its six tasting rooms.

A few days later, though, Haddox’s dream was derailed: Dana was diagnosed with leukemia.

She had not felt well for several months, but physicians hadn’t been able to come up with the source of her illness. Early visits to their family doctor proved fruitless, so Dana went to see an ear, nose and throat specialist in Yakima. When he told Dana her symptoms were because of a case of mononucleosis, the couple rejoiced.

“He said to go home, sleep, drink lots of water and eat, and in a month she’ll feel better,” Haddox said. “We were so excited.”

A month went by, but Dana didn’t get any better.

They went back to their family doctor, who did more tests and discovered Dana’s illness.

“He called us a few days later and told us he was sorry to have to break it to us over the phone, but that we needed to get to the hospital now,” said Haddox.

There were many nights during the next few years that Haddox would spend in a hospital room, next to his wife.

Dana went through her first round of chemotherapy two days later, and the couple was ready to fight.

Doctors told them her type of leukemia had a good recovery rate.

Haddox was determined to keep his wife’s spirits strong and help her fight.

“The kind we had was the most beatable, so we said, ‘Yeah, it will be a sucky year, but we’ll get through it,’ ” Haddox recalled.

When Dana’s hair began to fall out because of the chemo, Haddox shaved his wife’s head for her, then his own, in solidarity.

He spent every night with Dana, whether she was home or in a stark, white hospital room. Her parents stayed with her during the day. For

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lofty dream Mike Haddox designed The Winemaker’s Loft.

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the first time in his life, Haddox learned to take care of a house and his autistic children on a daily basis.

“I realized how hard her job really was. She had it way harder than I ever did,” Haddox said.

Despite good odds and strong resolve, Dana’s health continued to deteriorate.

“Each session (of chemo) got tougher and tougher to get through,” he said.

And the hardest thing for Haddox was watching the woman he loved, sickened by the disease.

“I couldn’t even rub her back to make her feel better — her body just physically hurt,” Haddox said.

Dana died in 2006. She left behind a much different man.

“Before she got sick, I never cried or talked about my emotions,” he said. “But when she passed, it was like a sea of emotions flowed. For the first year, I couldn’t talk about it without getting choked up.”

He’s rebuilding his life, and the Winemaker’s Loft has been an essential part of that.

“If I didn’t have the winery going when she passed, I think I would have fallen into a hole,” he said. “It kept me focused — on my future and on my kids’ future. Nobody cares about what’s happening in your personal life, just that you do what you say you are going to do and pay your bills.”

And between the illness and the winery, the bills were mounting and so was the pressure.

Haddox accepted that he wouldn’t finish the project himself, so he gathered some backers. And in the fall of 2007, Haddox opened those heavy doors to the Winemaker’s Loft, revealing the tasting room for his Michael Florentino Cellars label — the Florentino name a tribute to Dana’s family.

A loosely formed stone fireplace runs up a tall wall in the corner of the room, and ornate Europeanstyle furniture makes visitors feel is if they’ve entered a castle. The tast-

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ing room also is where Haddox offers the Wyndstone Winery wines, a label he started with his financial partners.

The loft also is home to Masquerade Wine Co., owned by Bill and Jennifer Kimmerly, who have been making wine since 2004 and crushing it at another Columbia Valley winery.

The Kimmerlys were making wines with the goal of one day building their own tasting room, an expense that was years out of reach.

But the monthly rent payment was something they could afford, Bill Kimmerly said.

Plus, they not only get the equipment they need and storage facilities, but Haddox also is always within reach, ready to mentor his tenants when they ask.

“That’s been invaluable,” Kimmerly said.

That personal touch always was part of Haddox’s business plan.

“I’m not the first guy to do an incubator,” Haddox said. “They are popping up everywhere. But I wanted to give my tenants something more than a building.”

Harry Alhadeff, founder of Apex Cellars, moved the label’s longtime tasting room from Sunnyside to the Winemaker’s Loft in late August.

Nearby are more wineries, including Willow Crest, Thurston Wolfe,

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THE WINEMAKER’S LOF T GETTING THERE

357 Port Street, Prosser, WA 99350 509-786-2705 www.thewinemakersloft.com M A I N TA S T I N G R O O M H O U R S

Friday-Sunday, 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.

L A B E L S AT M A I N TA S T I N G R O O M

Candy Mountain Winery Coyote Canyon Winery Martinez & Martinez Michael Florentino Cellars Wyndstone Winery The Winemakers Loft: House Wine Series STUDIOS

Apex Cellars Covey Run Heavens Cave Maison Bleue Winery Masquerade Wine Co. Tasawik Vineyards Olsen Estates and Airport Estates.

“I’m convinced it will be a destination draw,” Alhadeff predicts.

There’s much more in store for this year, as Haddox’s other tenants — Tasawik Cellars and Maison Bleue Winery — are scheduled to

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open their tasting rooms.

And Haddox plans to expand — building a 15,000-square-foot production facility behind the Loft as well as another adjacent incubator.

“Ultimately, it would be a place for the tenants to grow into,” he said.

“They could start out in The Winemaker’s Loft and as their production outgrew this facility, they would move over there, making more room here for new startups.”

He’s also partnering with developers in Yakima to start the New World Wine Co., a studio concept similar to the Loft, but larger — about 20,000 square feet — that will be in the center of a new retail development being built off 16th Avenue in Yakima.

More importantly, there’s a fiancée and a baby.

“I’m starting to get my equilibrium back,” he said. “There’s not a day that passes when I don’t think about Dana or what she might think of what I’m doing.”

And there are times when he believes Dana is there at the Winemaker’s Loft watching him. ı MARY HOPKIN is a longtime journalist who covers

the wine and grape industries for the Tri-City Herald in Kennewick, Wash. She is a frequent contributor to Wine Press Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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F E AT U R E

Shelf appeal Labels seek to tell story and sell bottles

BY INGRID STEGEMOELLER PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

G

inny Adelsheim didn’t know much about farming, viticulture or grapes when she and her then-husband David Adelsheim started their winery in the early 1970s.

She did know how to draw, though. And from the tips of her pencils came 17 portraits that graced the labels on Adelsheim Vineyard wines through the vintages.

Those precious few square inches share a look into the personality of the wine with consumers.

“It’s like a book on the shelf,” she said. “A label has to catch your eye first and make you look closer.”

While Ginny called her first illustration a “vineyard nymph,” subsequent drawings were modeled after real women — friends and family members who played instrumental roles in getting Adelsheim Vineyards, in Newberg, Ore., up and running. When the winery began making reserve wines, Ginny took the portraits in a new direction.

“I think we were trying to figure out how to name our top-of-the-line Pinot Noir … and distinguish it from other Oregon Pinot Noir,” David said.

So the Adelsheims’ only child came to be the namesake — and the artwork — of Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir.

They launched the label in 1986, and Elizabeth’s face has become one of the most recognized in the Oregon wine industry. It also may have started a trend. On a recent trip to a wine store — she doesn’t often shop for wine — Ginny Adelsheim was surprised by what she saw.

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“I could not believe how much illustration there is now on labels,” she said. “It’s almost the exception not to have illustration.”

Just as Adelsheim Vineyards used portraits of family and good friends to tell its story, hundreds of other wineries are vying for consumer attention on grocery store shelves, at wine shops and in restaurants.

Some use color and quirky names to attract new wine drinkers, while others depend on sleek designs to convey a history of quality.

An eye-catching and popular technique is silkscreen printing, said Sara Nelson of Sara Nelson Design Ltd. in Pasco, Wash. She’s designed labels for Whitman Cellars and Amavi Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash., Buckmaster Cellars and Sleeping Dog Wines in Benton City, Wash., and more.

The screen printing process means the paint is baked onto the bottle. No paper is necessary.

“It looks clean, simple and elegant,” Nelson said.

Advancements in the technique make it more accessible to smaller wineries. And high-end printing machines at Universal Specialties Inc., in Vernon, British Columbia, allow bottles to be printed with a spectrum of colors and designs at a rate of one bottle per second.

The company prints for more than 200 wineries of all sizes up and down the West Coast

and saw a 26 percent increase in clientele from 2006 to 2007, said President and Chief Executive Mac McLellan.

“Because you can’t taste the wine in the grocery store, most people are buying on presentation.”

—SARA NELSON

“What we attribute much of it to is so often wineries and designers are

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F E AT U R E With hundreds of different wines in any given store, the secret of a wine’s success is often in its label’s eye-catching ability.

looking for something new and different, and that’s what we are,” McLellan said.

Brett Scallan, group director of brand development and marketing services for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in Woodinville, Wash., said several of the wines in the company’s portfolio have screen-printed labels, including Columbia Crest’s new H3 label.

“It’s something that we look at if it’s a look and feel we want to create and it’s something paper can’t create,” Scallan said. “There’s a textural

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feel that’s associated with it.”

The process used to design labels within the company is intensive, incorporating information gathered from consumer panels and purchasing trends, Scallan said.

Another factor to consider when crafting a label is the wines’ intended market.

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ Red Diamond label, for example, was designed a few years ago to appeal to “Millennials” — a buzzword describing those ages 21-31. These potential wine drinkers often

embrace an edgy and alternative approach.

Originally, the Red Diamond label was printed onto the bottle using the screen-printing technique for sale in restaurants. However, the dramatic table presence didn’t carry over to the store shelf, so the winery redesigned the label, Scallan said.

“Because you can’t taste the wine in the grocery store, most people are buying on presentation,” Nelson said.

As more wines make their debuts, “funky, quirky” names and designs that wouldn’t be found in Europe are in vogue.

“It’s what people are buying. They buy stuff because it’s fun and their friends will get a kick out of it,” Nelson said.

Whitman Cellars and its “Killer Cab” blend, picturing a taxi cab with fangs, is a prime example, she said.

Kevin Rogers, owner of TimberRock Winery in Post Falls, Idaho, said he’s noticed an emergence of budget-conscientious blends with catchy names, such as Three Legged Red from Dunham Cellars in Walla Walla.

And labels with an extra funk factor also can be more appealing and accessible to casual wine drinkers.

“It’s OK to buy this and drink it with your pizza,” Nelson said.

Catching the attention of the female market was the intent of Rhonda Davis when she designed her new Foxy Roxy Wines labels. She believes her use of polka dots is unique in the industry.

“If a woman bought it, it looks chic-y. If a guy bought it, it looks like he was thinking of her,” said Davis, owner of StoneRidge Vineyards near Othello, Wash.

Davis sells grapes to Rogers, who makes her Chenin Blanc ice wine.

And while her male colleagues at the vineyard said the polka dots never would fly, she stuck with her woman’s intuition. And for some reason unknown to her, more men are buying her wine than women.

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Silkscreened labels give wine a look of elegance and a promise of premium wine worth spending a bit more on.

Established brands don’t rest on their laurels either, though, and their labels require redesigns with a fresh edge while still building on the winery’s heritage.

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said the winery is taking an evolutionary, not revolutionary, approach to new labels for its Two Vines and Grand Estates tiers. Both tend to appeal to an older generation of wine drinkers who appreciate vineyards and the craft of making wine,

he said, and labels need to reflect that understanding.

The concept of capturing the proper feel for his reserve-style Cabernet Sauvignon was a challenge for Rogers, whose day job is caring for animals as a veterinarian. Even though the small winery didn’t employ surveys or marketing data, Rogers sensed the whimsical porcupines on his original bottlings wasn’t going to tell the right story.

So his new TimberRock label — an illustration of a mountain and trees — exemplifies the challenge wineries face in creating a label that tells the story of the wine and its style, while also connecting with consumers.

“If you have a story to tell, which most small wineries do, it’s sometimes difficult to capture the emotion in that small little bit, or to get consumers to turn it over and read the back,” Rogers said.

For Rogers, creating the first label was a matter of finding art that was an expression of himself.

“It’s sort of a reflection of the mood we have for the winery,” he said of the critters playing jazz on his first label.

He found the perfect art for the job one summer in Coeur d’Alene, when he happened upon Alan McNiel’s work — particularly his playful porcupine paintings.

“It would always kind of tickle my funny bone when I saw his artwork,” Rogers said.

So Rogers mailed McNiel a picture of his front porch and asked the artist to depict porcupines playing jazz and drinking wine on the porch.

Subsequent labels followed the porcupine theme. The prickly critters ski across the label of his Chenin Blanc Ice Wine label, and a lone porcupine strums a tune on the bottle of “Old Vines” Chardonnay.

Creating a successful label is a challenge in and of itself. However, winery owners likely will face increased obstacles as a result of a

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wine labels proposal by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau that would require nutritional content and allergen warnings to be included on alcoholic beverages.

Wineries already feel space is squeezed when it comes to fitting in government-mandated messages, such as alcohol content and a safety warning about consumption.

Including nutritional information would mean listing fat, carbohydrate and protein content in wines, similar to the information displayed on food products.

The public comment period for the proposal ended in January, and the bureau plans to issue new rules within the year, said beverage industry consultant Alex Heckathorn. He predicts the bureau will allow a three-year compliance period.

Nelson, the label designer, said she’s not looking forward to the expanded requirements.

“It’s already a challenge to get all of the legally required copy and information about the winery on the label,” she said. “I don’t know where we’re going to put it.”

Experts predict some wineries may attempt a horizontal display. For bigger wineries such as Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, the proposal won’t cause quite the headache. Their labels already must comply with international regulations, Scallan said.

“We make those labels work in those environments,” he said.

However, with the mind-boggling number of choices consumers face each time they shop for wine, it’s critical for a label to pop.

“With something as complex as the array of labels, particularly in a specialty store, there’s no way that anybody knows about all the wines that are on offer,” David Adelsheim said.

That’s why Adelsheim Vineyards has continued to evolve its labels, slowly making each of their series of wines look more coherent. For example, the typeface is now the

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same on all of the labels.

And although Ginny no longer draws the labels, and some in the series now feature architecture instead of people, the portraits — and the wine behind them — created a level of respect for the longtime Oregon winery.

“On a very practical level, I was hoping the portraits would help our

F E AT U R E

labels to be noticed,” Ginny said.

Nearly 30 years later, the portraits continue to draw consumers toward their wines. ı INGRID STEGEMOELLER is a journalist who lives

in Kennewick, Wash. This is her first article for Wine Press Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. She has also designed wine labels.

Her Web site is WineCountr yCreations.com

Labels with a sense of humor are often targeted for those looking for inexpensive wine to go with unpretentious fare.

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Wine of the Week Sign up for the Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week newsletter, delivered every Tuesday via e-mail www.winepressnw.com

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Experience counts Oregon’s old masters continue to make outstanding Pinot Noirs

BY ANDY PERDUE & ERIC DEGERMAN

T

here’s something to be said for experience — especially with Pinot Noir.

After tasting 160 Pinot Noirs from Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and Idaho for this report, it says something profound that among the top wines are many of Oregon’s oldest and most experienced producers.

The Campbells, the Langes, David Adelsheim, Myron Redford, Harry Peterson-Nedry. These are folks who put the Oregon wine industry on their backs through the first couple of decades and dragged it into the modern era. David O’Reilly (Owen Roe) and Peter Rosback (Sineann) were right behind them.

Pinot Noir is a difficult grape to grow, especially in the Willamette Valley, a region on the edge of viticultural viability. The red grape made famous in Burgundy requires special handling to coax out great wine. It can turn on you at a moment’s notice, making it one of the most maddening experiences in wine appreciation.

In our evaluation, Oregon’s modern pioneers proved their mettle, showing that years of studying climate, walking vineyards and working with the most fickle of wine grapes continues to pay off with some of the Northwest’s finest wines.

Littered amid the top results are some young guns, as one might expect. Only time will tell if Barking Frog, Anam Cara, Kyra and Le Vieux Pin are flashes in the pan or have the stamina to be producing equally

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

brilliant wines for years to come.

Part of that will be up to Mother Nature, but most of it will come down to experience.

As one might expect, the vast majority of the 160 wines we tasted were from Oregon, which staked its claim with Pinot Noir in the early ’70s. We judged wines from 21 appellations, 13 of which were in Oregon.

We also had more than 25 wines from British Columbia, many of which held their own with Oregon.

Then a smattering came from Washington and Idaho. One Washington winery, Kyra in Moses Lake, broke through with the Evergreen State’s lone Outstanding award.

At the top of the heap were Pinot Noirs from Elk Cove Vineyards near Gaston, Ore., and Owen Roe in Newberg, Ore. The latter, in fact, earned two “Outstanding” ratings, as did Adelsheim Vineyard, also in Newberg.

Our judges for this competition included Tina Hammond, owner/winemaker of Privé Vineyard in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains; Jay Drysdale, VQA liaison for the B.C. wine industry; Bob Woehler, longtime Northwest wine writer and our tasting editor; Coke Roth, an international wine judge and member of our tasting panel; Eric Degerman, managing editor; and Andy Perdue, editor-in-chief.

OUTSTANDING Elk Cove Vineyards $48 2006 La Bohéme Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Second-generation winemaker Adam

W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Best Buy A wine that is $15 and under.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted.

CDN: Canadian dollars.

Campbell heads up our 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, and he further solidifies our selection of that award last year with this superb Pinot Noir. The grapes come from this estate 17-acre vineyard, which was planted in 1985. From the opening whiff, this reveals bright aromas of raspberries, Bing cherries, blackberries and allspice. It’s a lively wine on the palate, thanks to flavors of charming cherries and ripe raspberries. From the entry to the rich midpalate through the lengthy finish, this wine provides great balance and true elegance. (540 cases) Owen Roe $42 2006 The Kilmore Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District David O’Reilly has built Owen Roe into one of the Northwest’s most phenomenal wineries, thank to careful selection of grapes from Oregon and Washington.

This Pinot Noir is a blend of two grape sources, Kalita’s Vineyard and Lenné Estate Vineyard, both in the venerable YamhillCarlton District west of the Dundee Hills.

Pinots from this appellation tend to be complex, darker toned and layered, and this is a prime example. It opens with aromas of freshly mown hay, black raspberries and minerally earth, followed by polished flavors of ripe

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dark cherries and even lingonberries. A certain density of flavor is backed up with superb balance and a whisper of tannin through the smooth, long finish. (729 cases) Barking Frog $36 2006 Blakeslee Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Ron Helbig’s Newberg, Ore., winery didn’t hit our radar until we tasted this wine, and this is called making a splash. Using grapes from this vineyard near Sherwood, Ore., Helbig has crafted an unbelievably delicious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of raspberries, white strawberries, moist earth and well-integrated oak, followed by bold flavors that could be described as Burgundian, including forest floor, pie spices and cinnamon. It has a gentle entry without being sweet and is beautifully balanced. It’s also topped with a glass “cork” to protect the wine beneath. (105 cases)

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Torii Mor $29 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon This winery in the Dundee Hills has gained a following since opening in 1993, thanks to a string of top winemakers that have included Patty Green and Joe Dobbes. Jacques Tardy, a Burgundian, spent several years overseeing Montinore’s winemaking, has moved to Torii Mor. This is a blend of grapes from no fewer than 14 vineyards. The complexity that comes with such diverse sources shows in the bottle. The aromas reveal black raspberries, light cherries and whispers of oak and sandalwood, followed by flavors of black cherries, cedar and leather. This is a subtle wine backed with plenty of food-friendly acidity. We would suggest this with sirloin, pork or flank steak. (7,300 cases) Owen Roe $21 2006 Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir, Oregon From David O’Reilly comes a superior Pinot

Noir at a great price — with plenty around.

It’s a blend of various vineyards around the northern Willamette Valley, and its name refers to the time when landowners and laborers were partners. This is a fascinating wine, opening with aromas of black cherries, moist earth and hazelnuts. On the palate are intense flavors of ripe Bing cherries, light minerality, leather and well-integrated oak.

It’s a complex and well-made wine through the long finish. (5,452 cases) Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards $40 2006 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The father-son team of Don and Jesse Lange has been making Pinot Noirs high in the Dundee Hills for more than two decades, often toiling out of the limelight of more famous nearby producers. They have crafted a gorgeous wine here, which uses grapes from their estate vineyard, as well as

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Freedom Hill and Yamhill vineyards. The resulting wine opens with aromas of dark fruit and chocolate, followed by big, spicy flavors of rich fruit and leather. It’s a bigger style of wine, yet is very balanced and smooth.

(900 cases) Anam Cara Cellars $42 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Nick and Sheila Nicholas own and operate this winery and vineyard in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains. This reserve-level wine came from 10 barrels selected from a vintage that was challenging but ultimately rewarding, and all the grapes came from the 30-acre estate vineyard. It opens with aromas of ripe strawberries, cranberries, cinnamon and a bit of oak, followed by bright, clean flavors of raspberries, white strawberries, cranberries and even a hint of peppermint. A complex yet approachable wine. (213 cases)

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Kyra Wines $20 2006 Pinot Noir, Washington Here’s proof that it’s possible to craft Pinot Noir worth acclaim in Eastern Washington. Kyra Baerlocher in Moses Lake blends fruit from Evergreen Vineyard (82%) near the Gorge at Gorge with Blue Lakes Vineyard (18%) in Oroville to produce a brilliantly colored wine with aromas of inviting cherry jam and vanilla.

The inside is filled with juicy Rainier cherries, blueberries, plums and bright acidity. A wisp of smoke in the finish adds to its charm. One judge remarked, “I like where this is going.

It’s a great food wine or you can sit on the patio and just enjoy all that it has to offer.”

(400 cases)

less winemakers. He now makes wines using grapes from Oregon, Washington, California and New Zealand, and each is highly prized.

All his wines are capped with glass “corks.” By the label, one might think Rosback simply tossed together grapes from various vineyards. Rather, it’s a carefully crafted blend from four of Rosback’s favorite growers in the Willamette Valley. On first whiff, this wine is slightly brooding with dark, earthy tones.

Soon enough, though, it opens up and offers aromas of ripe black cherries and mushrooms, followed by flavors of rich, dark cherries backed with great structure. It’s a powerful wine that still manages to deliver a silky mouth feel. Simply stunning. (1,000 cases)

Sineann $36 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon Not so quietly, Peter Rosback is emerging as one of the Northwest’s best, most innovative and fear-

Le Vieux Pin $45 CDN 2006 Perigee Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Daniel Bontorin had sandy Stag Vineyard in Osoyoos, B.C., cropped to 3.6 tons per acre,

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and there’s a delicious assortment of fruit, spice and herbaceousness. Cherries, strawberries, cooked green beans and cinnamon aromas are redeemed on the easy approach with more strawberry and cherry flavors. The long and gentle orbit across the palate allows the allspice notes to peek out. (700 cases) Mission Hill Family Estate $30 CDN 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Sites from Osoyoos north to Kelowna gave John Simes plenty to pick from. A life of 14 months in French oak embossed it with graceful aromas of vanilla, black cherries and pomegranates. It’s rather velvety and rich on the palate with more black cherries. The structure is youthful acidity over tannin with a long and beautiful finish of blueberries and cinnamon toast. Look for it wine shops because it’s sold out at the winery. (1,000 cases)

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Duck Pond Cellars $30 2005 Jory Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The Fries family has operated this Dundee, Ore., winery for nearly 20 years and is best known for producing good, affordable wines. This higher-end bottling is a bit of a departure — and is superb. Using grapes primarily from its estate St. Jory Vineyard in the South Salem Hills (and 9% from the Dundee Hills), it has crafted a wine that is bright and approachable yet complex. It opens with aromas of rose petals, spicy pie cherries, raspberries and cinnamon, followed by clean flavors of raspberries, Rainier cherries and cranberries, with hints of vanilla and something that reminded us of a dusty country road after a spring rain. (468 cases) Adelsheim Vineyard $46 2006 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley David Adelsheim has been

making Oregon Pinot Noir for as long as anyone, having arrived in the Chehalem Mountains in 1971. And he’s not shown one bit of evidence that he’s slowing down. The Adelsheims’ daughter, Elizabeth, who is earning her Ph.D. in philosophy in Paris, is featured on the label. This wine represents Adelsheim’s best barrels from seven vineyards in four appellations (Chehalem, Ribbon Ridge, McMinnville and Dundee Hills). The resulting wine is, dare we say, pretty with aromas of cranberries, rhubarb and violets, followed by flavors of boysenberries, baking spices and a sprinkling of cocoa. A velvety mouth feel provides a great sense of plushness and elegance. (1,618 cases) Chehalem $44 2006 Ridgecrest Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Harry Peterson-Nedry was one of the forces behind the establishment of the Chehalem

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Mountains AVA, but he also has a special place in his heart for the nearby Ribbon Ridge appellation, the smallest AVA in the Pacific Northwest. His 55-acre Ridgecrest Vineyard was planted in the early ’80s and is the source of this superior Pinot Noir. As one would expect from Ribbon Ridge fruit, this is a pure, darker-toned wine that emphasizes power and elegance. It opens with aromas of ripe dark cherries, blueberries, vanilla and chocolate, followed by rich flavors of Bing cherries and spices. Silky tannins give way to a memorable finish. (587 cases) Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $20 CDN 2006 Optimum Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Walter and Gordon Gehringer’s reserve release swirls between black cherries and blackberries from start to finish. Cherry candy, ripe purple fruit and vanilla extract aromas yield to a rich, dense and hedonistic

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drink loaded with dark and ripe berries that lay on the front of the tongue. That fruit carries just over the top of the tannins and into a finish of eucalyptus and caramel. Ample acidity lends this to a serving of ginger-glazed salmon or a series of years in the cellar. (550 cases) Quails’ Gate Estate Winery $45 CDN 2006 Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Estate vines two decades old off Mount Boucherie produce a wine that caters to both New and Old World interests.

Tones of black cherries, caramel, green peppercorns, earthiness and a whiff of smoke blow into a great structure on the palate.

Accessible fruit flavors feature strawberries, vanilla and tasty pie cherry tartness on the finish. Enjoy now alongside a suggested pairing of roasted duck breast with cherry reduction sauce. (1,100 cases)

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Amity Vineyards $40 2006 Crannell Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Myron Redford has been going against the grain in the Eola-Amity Hills since the mid-’70s. Somewhere along the way, he decided to eschew new oak and hasn’t used any since. This strategy certainly hasn’t hurt him, as his wines consistently rise above in our judgings and other competitions. This Pinot Noir uses grapes from Crannell Farms in Amity and shows off pure fruit aromas and flavors. It opens with notes of bright cherries, raspberries and even vanilla, followed by flavors of elegant red fruit. It is so fresh and delicious now, it’s difficult to resist, yet it has the bright acidity to age into something that could well be treasured. (132 cases) Adelsheim Vineyard $31 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley David Paige, who joined Adelsheim as winemaker in

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pinot noir bodes well for several more years. (480 cases) Spindrift Cellars $24 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This small producer near Corvallis, Ore., relies primarily on estate fruit in and around Philomath. This is a superb wine that came oh-so-close to earning our top rating. It opens with aromas of spicy cherries, boysenberries, cedar and sweet herbs, followed by a rich entry that leads to bold flavors of ripe cherries and berries. It reveals complexity on the palate, thanks to the big fruit, deftly handled oak and nice underlying earthiness, all backed with just the right amount of structure. (860 cases) Phelps Creek Vineyards $18 2006 Le Petit Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge We’ve become accustomed to tasting topnotch wines from this Hood River, Ore., winery. The grapes come from estate vineyards in the Columbia Gorge, and the wine was crafted by Peter Rosback of Sineann fame. It opens with bright aromas of cherries, cranberries, rhubarb and even a bit of strawberry jam. Its youthfulness shows through on the aromas and palate, where the flavors tend toward Bing cherries, rhubarb and strawberries. Racy acidity provides food-friendliness and a moderate finish. (125 cases) Ponzi Vineyards $35 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Secondgeneration winemaker Luisa Ponzi grew up watching her father help pioneer Oregon Pinot Noir, and for several years she has been at the helm of this winery near Beaverton.

This is a classic Oregon Pinot, opening with aromas of rose petals, black truffles and pretty red fruit. On the palate are lush flavors of pomegranates and ripe cherries that provide an elegant mouth feel and a long, silky finish.

(6,000 cases)

2001, has a beauty with this large-production bottling. He blended Pinot Noir from no fewer than 16 vineyards from throughout the Willamette Valley, 75% of which was from seven estate vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains. It’s a complex red with aromas of Bing and pie cherries, along with cinnamon, vanilla cream and moist earth. On the palate are dense flavors of ripe cherries, strawberries and well-integrated oak. Well-balanced and structured, this wine tastes delicious now and should continue to improve for a half-decade or more. (16,221 cases)

EXCELLENT Duck Pond Cellars $20 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Known for producing good quality at modest prices, this Dundee, Ore., winery continues that

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trend, nearly pushing its way into the Outstanding category. More than 90% of the grapes come from two Duck Pond estate vineyards, which gives the winery great control over quality. This opens with aromas of Rainier cherries, strawberries and cloves, which give way to bright, rich flavors of bright red fruit backed with plentiful acidity. (22,637 cases) Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars $36 CDN 2005 Reserve “Stripe Label” Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Few wines in British Columbia are as recognizable or as coveted as this, and this picturesque vineyard delivered despite a vintage the Mavetys describe as “challenging.” Pie cherries, pomegranates, whole cranberries, cola, thyme and moist earth are featured inside and out. It’s lively and balanced on the palate with a finish of a cinnamon stick stirring pie cherries that

Amity Vineyards $40 2006 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemakers Darcy Pendergrass and Myron Redford use estate fruit from the Eola-Amity Hills for this singlevineyard Pinot Noir. It’s darker toned and fairly intense, with aromas of black cherries, allspice, plums and strawberries, as well as flavors of cherries, blueberries and hints of vanilla. The right-on ripeness provides bright acidity, modest tannins and great length. (99 cases) D’Angelo Estate Winery $25 CDN 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Ontario winemaker Sal D’Angelo traveled cross-country and makes quite an opening statement with his first vintage from estate Naramata Bench grapes. Mature black cherries, vanilla, anise and mocha aromas lead into a lively entry of pie cherries that produce a mediumbodied structure and by cherry cola farewell.

(900 cases)

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pinot noir Owen Roe $42 2006 Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills Most of the grapes for this dark, succulent red came from the Crawford-Beck Vineyard near Amity, with the rest from Eola Springs Vineyard to the south. Winemaker David O’Reilly crafted a wine with aromas that include rose petals, bright cherries, a hint of cola and a whiff of oak. On the palate are rich flavors of black cherries on a platform of velvety tannins and good underlying acidity. Superb throughout the lengthy finish. (585 cases) Chehalem $32 2006 Three Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Owner Harry PetersonNedry takes advantage of grapes from three estate vineyards: Stoller, Ridgecrest and Corral Creek, which are from three appellations near the winery in the Chehalem Mountains. He and co-winemaker Mike Eyres crafted a complex wine that shows off aromas of bright raspberries and fresh cherries, followed by flavors of strawberries, black cherries and vanilla, all backed with a balance of acidity and tannins. (4,053 cases) Wine by Joe $19 2006 Really Good Pinot Noir, Oregon Joe Dobbes has developed into one of the best recognized leaders in the Oregon wine industry. After spending several years as winemaker for Willamette Valley Vineyards, “Hollywood” Joe launched his own winemaking and consulting company. One branch of this is the whimsical Wine by Joe, which is meant to be fun and affordable. And it’s darned good. It opens with aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and rose petals, followed by flavors of red currants, delicate cherries and strawberries. It came in high on our judges’ “Yummy” scale and will pair well with a wide variety of cuisines. (8,568 cases)

palate. Rising above this are flavors of red currants, pomegranates and red cherries. This is a fascinating and complex wine, and we’ll be interested to see the direction it takes with a few years in the cellar. (570 cases) Maysara Winery $32 2006 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, McMinnville Mo Momtazi oversees the largest vineyard and nursery operation in the McMinnville appellation. His daughter Tahmiene now is head winemaker and oversees production of the three Pinot Noirs. This opens with pretty floral aromas, as well as notes of raspberries, cherries, vanilla and sweet spices, followed by dark, expressive flavors of rich cherries backed with velvety tannins. It’s a powerful yet expressive and enthralling wine. (812 cases) Silvan Ridge $36 2005 Bradshaw Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This longtime producer in the southern Willamette Valley has long focused on quality. This vineyard-designated wine from grapes near Junction City, Ore., shows off a combination of New and Old World styles. It opens with aromas of fresh hay, Italian spices, rosehips and fresh plums, followed by flavors of dark fruit with a rich midpalate and good depth. (105 cases) Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $25 CDN 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley One of the largest-production Pinot Noirs in B.C. also ranks among the best. Estate fruit cropped to 4.4 tons per acre produced a very fruit-forward style that features cherry jam and delightful acidity. The blending of Merlot (5%) adds some breadth to the structure. (2,690 cases)

See Ya Later Ranch $23 CDN 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley This is as youthful and engaging as a puppy, almost Beaujolais in style with purple fruit and a candied nose that includes caramel and anise. A bite of boysenberry dominates the palate along with a stream of acidity and fine tannins on the back one. Enjoy now with cinnamon roasted game hens, but there’s more in store in a couple of years. And it’s guarded by a screwcap. (1,050 cases)

CedarCreek Estate Winery $55 CDN 2005 Platinum Reserve Block Four Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley American expatriate Tom DiBello produced an especially appealing tribute for this Kelowna, B.C., winery’s 20th anniversary. This first vineyard-designate release opens with aromas of boysenberries and cream, cola, blueberries and baking spices. Much of the same tightly concentrated fruit, including cranberries, is framed on the palate by beautifully fine tannins and plenty of acidity for this baby to reach adulthood.

(248 cases)

Chehalem $60 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Using grapes primarily from his estate Ridgecrest Vineyard on Ribbon Ridge, Harry Peterson-Nedry then selects only the finest barrels of Pinot Noir from his cellar to craft this reserve-level red. This still is in its infancy but is already showing where it is headed. In the aromas and flavors, this is more of an Old World style of Pinot Noir, with notes of leather and forest floor on the nose and minerally earth and sun-dried tomatoes on the

De Ponte Cellars $70 2005 Baldwin Family Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills While many vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley have been forced to replant because of the root louse phylloxera, De Ponte’s 30-year-old estate vines have not. These old soldiers in the Dundee Hills gave way to this wine, which reveals luscious aromas of raspberries, black cherries and a dusting of cocoa powder, followed by luscious flavors of ripe Bing cherries and even malted milk balls. This is a smooth, well-bal-

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anced wine that should continue to develop in the bottle. (100 cases) Best Buy!

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $15 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Jason Bull has taken over winemaking duties for this Forest Grove, Ore., winery after several years at Laurel Ridge in Yamhill County. Using estate grapes, he has managed to produce a delicious and affordable bottle of wine. It opens with aromas of raspberries, cranberries and red currants, followed by flavors of bright cherries and raspberries. Right-on acidity and tannins back up all the flavor. (880 cases) O’Reilly’s $20 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon David O’Reilly of Owen Roe fame bottles this eponymous wine that is meant to be delicious and affordable.

He manages this by selecting barrels that don’t quite fit into the Owen Roe blends, then prices it accordingly. The vineyards for this wine were from the Eola-Amity Hills and Yamhill-Carlton District. On the nose, it provides bright cranberry and raspberry aromas, along with a bit of oak, followed by an explosion of flavors that include black cherries and black raspberries. This is backed with plenty of structure and has tremendous depth of flavor. A real find. (9,750 cases) Capitello Wines $35 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley New Zealand native Ray Walsh worked with some of the best Kiwi winemakers before striking out on his own in Oregon. This is his second release, and it’s a dandy. It provides aromas of black raspberries, rose petals, sweet spices and Tennessee red cedar, followed by juicy flavors of raspberries, black cherries, ripe strawberries and a hint of vanilla. It’s a bright, delicious wine from entry to the lengthy finish. (245 cases) Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery $25 CDN 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Those looking for a bigger style of Pinot Noir and a view of Vaseux Lake can do both here. Black cherries, vanilla, crushed walnut and toast aromas lead to concentrated flavors of more cherries, plums and a wealth of fine-grain tannins. One judge predicted, “This will be a big contender in the years to come.” (255 cases) Golden Mile Cellars Estate Winery $35 CDN 2006 Black Arts Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley The Luckhurst family bought this longtime winery near Oliver, B.C., in 2003, and this wine comes from winemaker Mike Bartier’s first vintage. Red currants, thyme and saddle leather notes lead into a velvety and dense integration of cherries and forest floor earthiness. It’s big yet soft through the midpalate, yielding to spicy tannins and cranberries in the finish. Suggested fare includes chorizo with tomatoes. (2,100 cases)

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Christopher Bridge Cellars $28 2006 Satori Springs Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Chris and Susanne Carlberg own this respected vineyard near Oregon City. Chris got this winery started with the help of brother-in-law Chris Camarda of Andrew Will fame. Now, Laurent Montalieu (formerly of WillaKenzie) crafts the wines. It opens with aromas of raspberries, minerally earth and a hint of oak, followed by integrated flavors of cherries, rhubarb, pomegranates and sweet herbs. A balanced wine with good intensity.

(520 cases) Stoller Vineyards $40 2005 SV Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The Stollers, who are partners in Chehalem Wines, launched their eponymous winery using fruit from their high-tech vineyard in the Dundee Hills. Under the direction of winemaker Melissa Burr, this wine reveals aromas of black cherries, lilacs, linen and black truffles, followed by elegant flavors of lush cherries and a bit of dark chocolate, all backed with silky tannins. A smooth, easy-todrink wine. (923 cases) Brandborg Vineyard and Winery $30 2006 Love Puppets Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley California escapee Terry Brandborg is proving the viticultural viability of Elkton, a tiny town in the northern Umpqua Valley, southwest of Eugene. The whimsical name is an inside joke having to do with a refrigerator magnet, but it might as well describe the wine’s voluptuous mouth feel. It opens with aromas of bright cherries and raspberries, followed by smooth, rich flavors of dark cherries. This is a beautiful, balanced wine with no visible faults. (800 cases) Brandborg Vineyard and Winery $22 2006 Bench Lands Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Brandborg’s largest-production Pinot Noir comes from a variety of vineyards in the northern Umpqua Valley, primarily near the Umpqua River. It opens with aromas of red currants, cherries, vanilla and juniper, followed by clean, bright flavors of Chelan cherries. A well-balanced, flawless wine. (2,961 cases) Amity Vineyards $25 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Myron Redford’s mainstream Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley. It opens with aromas of Rainier cherries and sweet spices, followed by flavors of cherry compote, plums and even blueberries. One judge described it as “adult fruit punch.” (2,600 cases) Owen Roe $42 2006 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Selecting four barrels from an estate vineyard near Newberg, David O’Reilly has crafted a wine that blends the bold Pommard clone

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with the bright 115 version of Pinot Noir. The result is a wine with aromas of Rainier cherries, vanilla and white pepper, followed by rich, luscious flavors of bold, dark fruit, ripe cherries and a lush, lengthy finish. (103 cases) Maysara Winery $50 2005 Delara Pinot Noir, McMinnville Reaching into his Persian heritage, owner Mo Momtazi named this wine after a word that means “capture one’s heart.” It opens with aromas of black cherries, vanilla, plums and cola, followed by flavors of cherries and ripe plums. It’s a luscious wine with tremendous depth, all backed with impressive acidity. (700 cases) Dobbes Family Estate $24 2005 Grande Assemblage Cuvée Pinot Noir, Oregon Joe Dobbes and his family run this operation, which is meant to be more upscale and traditional than the whimsical “Wine by Joe” bottlings. Yet this blend of Pinot Noir grapes from throughout the state is delicious and affordable. It shows off aromas of black raspberries, violets, cherries and spices, followed by flavors of black cherries and sweet spices. It has a velvety midpalate with a near-absence of tannins, yet the underlying acidity makes this a perfect candidate for prime rib. (1,391 cases) Elk Cove Vineyards $29 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Adam Campbell’s mainline Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from a variety of Willamette Valley vineyards. It’s built to be approachable in its youth, and that’s certainly the case. This opens with aromas of black cherries, vanilla, black tea and a hint of tobacco, followed by flavors of ripe cherries and bright raspberries.

It’s smooth and elegant from the entry to the finish and possesses great structure throughout. (16,500 cases) King Estate $29 2006 Signature Collection Pinot Noir, Oregon One of Oregon’s largest producers, King Estate is south of Eugene near the town of Lorane. It is one of the state’s most widely distributed wineries, so it often takes the message of Oregon wine across the nation.

This particular wine is a fine ambassador, indeed. It opens with aromas of ripe raspberries and strawberries, followed by smooth, delicious flavors of cherries and spices. A well-made and balanced wine. (30,500 cases) Jovino $19 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon This is yet another wine under the Joe Dobbes brand. The story goes that restaurants didn’t like the whimsy of the Wine By Joe label, so Dobbes came up with this brand, which has a more Europeanlike name and traditional presentation.

There’s still plenty of fun under the screwcap, however, beginning with aromas of ripe raspberries, cherries, strawberries and boysenber-

ries. On the palate are deliciously creamy flavors of ripe fruit backed with velvety tannins and ample acidity. (1,541 cases) Youngberg Hill Vineyards $45 2005 Jordan Block Barrel Select Pinot Noir, McMinnville This operation is, perhaps, best known for the breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys from its bed and breakfast. But Youngberg Hill also is producing some superb wines from its estate vineyards. This block is on a steeper slope, and the wine is on the darker, more brooding side. It opens with aromas of black cherries, vanilla and rich earth, followed by flavors of dark fruit and well-integrated oak. A balanced and well-made wine. (125 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $46 2006 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District Oregon’s most famous Pinot Noir vineyard is run by Dick Shea, and there likely are more vineyard-designated wines from his plantings than any other. Raptor Ridge, a producer in Hillsboro, makes several styles of Pinot Noir, and this is its best effort.

It opens with aromas of black cherries, forest floor and oak, followed by bold flavors of ripe, black fruit. Pronounced tannins need a little time to settle down, but they also will provide the perfect foil for roasted meats.

(480 cases) Inniskillin Okanagan $22 CDN 2005 Dark Horse Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Sandor Mayer shows off his winemaking and viticulture knowledge with the release from the 23-acre site north of Osoyoos Lake. Hints of strawberries, black cherries, vanilla, leather, allspice and bread crust lead into a juicy structure of bright Bing cherries with moderate tannins that will begin to show best in a couple of years. (550 cases) Salt Spring Vineyard $30 CDN 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Gulf Islands Here’s another example of this grape’s potential in a maritime climate. Paul Troop crafted estate fruit that focuses on aromas of raspberries and cranberries with a whiff of light oak spice. The palate features the same rewarding red fruit with bright acidity that overshadows the tannins. Enjoy this with lamb, puttanesca or marinated flank steak. (228 cases) Winter’s Hill Vineyard $39 2005 Cuvée du Vigneron Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The Gladhart family farms a 35-acre vineyard near the Dundee Hills town of Lafayette. This reserve-level wine came primarily from estate grapes that yielded just 1.7 tons per acre. It’s a rich, spicy, elegant wine that opens with aromas of cherries, cedar, black tea and vanilla, followed by flavors of cherries, raspberries and ripe strawberries.

It’s smooth on the entry yet has the acidity to age as well as pair with a variety of dishes.

(750 cases)

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Wine Country Farm Cellars $42 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Easily the smallest-production wine in the competition, this Pinot Noir hails from Joan Davenport’s estate vineyard surrounding her bed and breakfast in the Dundee Hills. The vines are now 38 years old, and the resulting wine shows that maturity. It reveals aromas of cherries, violets, strawberries and French vanilla, followed by flavors of ripe raspberries and cherries. An elegant wine with a silky mouth feel. (24 cases) Brandborg Vineyard and Winery $38 2006 Ferris Wheel Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley High in the hills above Elkton, Ore., is Terry Brandborg’s estate vineyard. It’s still fairly young, but its high elevation in the northern Umpqua Valley makes it a very exciting location. This wine shows off aromas of black raspberries, black licorice, ripe cherries and red peppercorns, followed by clean flavors of raspberries, cherries and even figs. Bright acidity provides the structure. (452 cases) Thornhaven Estates $18 CDN 2006 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Christine Leroux takes estate fruit from Giants Head Mountain near Summerland, B.C., to produce a lighter style with elegance and delightful acidity. The profile centers on strawberries, red currants, whole cranberries and a bit of rhubarb in the finish. (750 cases) Spangler Vineyards $24 2006 Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge Pat and Loree Spangler took over the old La Garza Cellars operation in the Umpqua Valley and have turned it into one of Southern Oregon’s most exciting wineries. They reached up into the Columbia Gorge for these grapes, which reveal elegance and density. This wine opens with aromas of violets, cherries and sweet oak spices, followed by flavors of ripe cherries and smooth tannins. This is a round, approachable wine.

(452 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $29 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Owner/winemaker Scott Schull blended grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards from throughout the northern Willamette Valley for this wine, including such notables as Shea, Meredith Mitchell, Hawks View and Yamhill Springs. The resulting wine shows similar complexity, including aromas of cherries, strawberries and violets, followed by flavors of cherries and pomegranates. A silky mouth feel and smooth finish give this added elegance. (1,100 cases) The Four Graces $27 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Steve and Paula Black named their winery after

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their four daughters, Alexis, Vanessa, Christiana and Jillian. The grapes come from their estate vineyard in the Dundee Hills, and the wines are crafted by consulting winemaker Laurent Montalieu. This is a darker-toned wine with aromas of black cherries, vanilla and lavender, followed by flavors of black cherries and hints of sweet spices. An easydrinking wine with good density. (7,400 cases) Carlton Hill Wine Co. $36 2006 Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District Winemaker David Polite used grapes from his estate vineyard in the middle of the venerable Yamhill-Carlton District for this distinctive Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of pomegranates, cranberries and crushed herbs, followed by approachable flavors of cherries and raspberries. Beautifully balanced acidity gives this food-friendly approachability. Cook ours rare. (490 cases) Stoller Vineyards $25 2006 JV Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This vineyard up the hill from the town of Dundee, Ore., was planted beginning in 1995 and had some of the best folks in the business helping, including Allen Holstein and Harry Peterson-Nedry. Melissa Burr crafted this wine in Stoller’s new facility amid the vines. It opens with inviting aromas of cherries, red peppercorns and blackberries, followed by richly structured flavors that reminded us of a freshly baked cherry pie. It is well balanced and lengthy in the finish.

(2,983 cases) A to Z Wineworks $20 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon When Bill Hatcher left Domaine Drouhin Oregon after managing the French-owned winery in the Dundee Hills for a dozen years, few realized what his next move would be. And nobody expected he would head up the state’s largest winery. He’s pulled together quite a team, including winemakers Sam Tannahill and Cheryl Francis and partner Gregg Popovich, whose day job includes coaching the world champion San Antonio Spurs. This wine? Pure Oregon, thanks to aromas of cranberries and cherries and clean, approachable flavors of strawberries, cherries and vanilla. Smooth tannins and bright acidity provide all the balance needed to pair with prime rib or Copper River salmon. (51,000 cases) Redman Wines $30 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This young winery on Ribbon Ridge, the Northwest’s smallest appellation, is off to a grand start with this, its second release. It shows off elegant aromas of ripe Bing cherries, violets and blueberries in cream, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and sweet spices. A well-made and balanced wine.

(606 cases)

Dobbes Family Estate $65 2005 Quailhurst Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Joe Dobbes uses grapes from this vineyard on Parrot Mountain in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains appellation, one of the most distinctive areas of this AVA. It’s a rather sexy wine with aromas of black cherries, black raspberries, blackberries and dark chocolate, followed by intense flavors of rich, dark fruit, including Bing cherries and blackberries with a hint of leather. (150 cases) Henry Estate $18 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon For three decades, the Henry family has been producing some of the state’s most stylish wines in the Umpqua Valley. This spicy Pinot Noir opens with aromas of cherries, mild blackberries, cola and a bit of oak, followed by lush, delicious flavors of mature pie cherries, raspberries and even a hint of citrus for complexity. (7,000 cases)

RECOMMENDED Lang Vineyards $19 CDN 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Here’s another young and fresh style, albeit from 25-year-old vines on the Naramata Bench, that’s mostly tank-fermented. Notes of strawberry jam, sarsaparilla and cola with ample acidity and tannins make this a nice pair to roasted pork, chicken or Italian dishes. (450 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $38 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This reserve-level wine used grapes from seven north Willamette Valley vineyards, then aged in French oak (44% new). The resulting wine shows off complex aromas of raspberries, sarsaparilla, blueberries and blood oranges, followed by penetrating flavors of blueberries backed with velvety tannins.

(1,100 cases) Mount Boucherie Estate Winery $19 CDN 2005 Summit Reserve Pinot Noir, British Columbia Big tones of black cherry and vanilla make for an inviting drink of more cherries and raspberries. A smooth structure of tannins from 16 months in French barrels and acidity included a return of black fruit and more oak in the finish. Suggested fare includes duck breast or lamb kebabs. (1,200 cases) Erath Vineyards $31 2005 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Winemaker Gary Horner blended grapes from five vineyards within the Dundee Hills AVA for this luscious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of cinnamon, cherries and sandalwood, followed by smooth flavors of cherries and raspberries. Well-managed oak pro-

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pinot noir vides complexity, and there’s plenty of foodfriendly acidity just beneath the surface.

(3,435 cases) Golden Mile Cellars Estate Winery $23 CDN 2006 Luckhurst Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, British Columbia A deep and dark fruit profile of candied strawberries and canned pie cherries is carried into a firm structure with some pleasing oiliness in the finish. Duck confit would be a nice fit. (700 cases) Left Coast Cellars $24 2005 Cali’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Big blueberries, plum jam, eucalyptus leaf, cola and strawberries make this a Bordeaux lover’s Pinot Noir. There’s a delicious berries-and-cream note in the midpalate with a boldness of acidity that would allow it to stand up to a hunter’s bounty. (2,000 cases) Cana’s Feast Winery $45 2006 Pinot Noir, McMinnville This winery in the town of Carlton, Ore., used to be known as Cuneo Cellars but has changed names and direction. Now overseeing winemaking is Patrick Taylor, who worked under founder Gino Cuneo for several years. The grapes for this wine come exclusively from the highly regarded Meredith Mitchell Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. It opens with aromas of cranberries, raspberries and Chelan cherries, followed by flavors of Rainier cherries and even black cherry liqueur. It’s hedonistic yet has plenty of acidity. (162 cases) Dobbes Family Estate $42 2004 Griffin’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker/owner Joe Dobbes built this Pinot Noir to be his most age-worthy. It is a big wine, for certain, and has plenty of cellaring potential. It opens with aromas of black cherries, blackberries and French vanilla, followed by flavors of Bing cherries and plums. This was easily one of the biggest, boldest Pinot Noirs we tasted.

(223 cases) Best Buy!

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 CDN 2006 Private Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley It’s almost unheard and unseen — some might say obscene — for a family-owned winery to release a Pinot Noir of this quality at this price. Juicy black cherries, allspice and caramel make this an extremely likable expression of Burgundy. (2,300 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $46 2006 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville One of the more confusing of the new Oregon appellations is McMinnville because the city of the same name is not inside the AVA. Rather, the viticultural area is a few miles south of town on a

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hill in the Coast Range. Meredith Mitchell is one of the state’s most important vineyards, and this wine shows off the region’s darkertoned wines. This opens with aromas of crushed herbs, ripe pie cherries and peppercorns, followed by racy flavors of ripe Bing cherries. The racy acidity contrasts nicely with the silky mouth feel. (192 cases) Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery $19 CDN 2006 Rock Wren Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Mission Hill Family Estate’s new minted second label allows it to produce valueminded wines. Here’s a rather exotic example with notes of strawberries, vanilla, blueberries and organic unsweetened Montmorency cherries. A straightforward structure is capped by hints of citrus and juniper berries.

Sineann $42 2006 Covey Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This vineyard north of Forest Grove, Ore., in the town of Banks is a favorite of Sineann owner/winemaker Peter Rosback. This shows some dark tones, starting with aromas of black cherries, black currants and minerally soil, then flavors of more dark fruit and earthy notes. This is pretty tightly wound at the moment and is likely to reveal more of its nature with some time in the cellar. (300 cases) Amity Vineyards $40 2006 Sunnyside Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This vineyard near Salem, Ore., has been one of Myron Redford’s favorites for years, and he regularly makes a designated wine from Sunnyside’s grapes. This offers aromas and flavors of spicy cherries with plenty of underlying acidity. Based on past experience, we suspect this has more to reveal with a little aging.

(203 cases) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $18 CDN 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Diamondback and Tinhorn Creek vineyards combined for this production that opens with cherry pie, cola, grape Popsicle and fresh button mushrooms. Boysenberries and black cherries with the peel are escorted by ample acidity and slightly assertive tannins. Quite pleasant, it was judged more than four months prior to its July 1 release, so it will only get better. And with the screwcap, there’s no concern about cork taint. (3,080 cases) Le Vieux Pin $45 CDN 2006 Emoi Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Black fruit, leaf tobacco and cedar notes spill out on the palate with a firmness and hedonistic ripeness that comes from fruit taken from the Golden Mile at 26.5 brix. That structure would be best enjoyed in the next one to two years alongside duck confit. (305 cases)

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Amity Vineyards $45 2005 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This blend of grapes from three vineyards (Sunnyside, Amity Estate and Schouten) represents the best barrels from the vintage for owner/winemaker Myron Redford. Historically, it ages extremely well, improving for many, many years. This shows off aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and cherries, backed with plenty of acidity. It’s good now, and it should show even better in another year. (291 cases) Foris Vineyards $18 2006 Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley The grapes for this luscious Pinot Noir came from seven vineyards in the Illinois Valley, a subregion of the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon. It reveals aromas and flavors of black cherries, sweet spices and vanilla, all backed up with ample acidity and moderate tannins. (11,728 cases) Illahe Vineyards $19 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Longtime grape grower Lowell Ford established this vineyard west of Salem, Ore., in 1999 with a focus on Pinot Noir.

Winemakers Brad Ford and Michael Lundeen have crafted an elegant wine with aromas of violets and strawberries, as well as bright, smooth flavors of cherries and strawberries. (475 cases) Elk Cove Vineyards $48 2006 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This estate vineyard near the town of Yamhill was planted in 1997. It is lower in elevation than the Campbells’ other vineyards, so it tends to ripen earlier. This wine reveals aromas of strawberries, ripe cherries and black pepper, along with intense and spicy cherries and loganberries. (540 cases) Ponzi Vineyards $60 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Luisa Ponzi used grapes from three estate vineyards and two other sources for this reserve-level wine. It shows off elegant aromas and flavors of cherries and sweet spices, backed up with supple tannins and bright acidity. From one of the coolest vintages in a decade, this Pinot Noir still is trying to unwind. (1,500 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $38 2006 Yamhill Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District This vineyard is on the western side of the Yamhill-Carlton District, up against the Coast Range. The resulting wine shows off aromas and flavors of cherries, cedar, black raspberries and a variety of spices. It’s a luscious wine. (100 cases)

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Elk Cove Vineyards $38 2006 Five Mountain Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Originally planted in the late ’70s by the Ponzi families, this vineyard was bought

by Elk Cove in 2005 after leasing it for many years. This is a darker-toned red with aromas and flavors of black truffles, mushrooms, plums and chocolate-covered cherries. (100 cases) Benton-Lane Winery $26 2006 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This longtime producer in the southern Willamette Valley blended together seven different clones of Pinot Noir for this wine. That complexity shows in the bottle, with aromas and flavors ranging from cranberries to rhubarb. It’s a bold, luscious wine with good length. (24,866 cases) Raptor Ridge Winery $38 2006 Stony Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville This steeply sloped vineyard west of the city of McMinnville is owned and farmed by Stan Murayama, and Raptor Ridge has been using the grapes for a while. This wine offers bright, beautiful aromas and flavors of raspberries and spicy cherries, along with gorgeous acidity and great length. (96 cases) Maysara Winery $25 2005 Jamsheed Pinot Noir, McMinnville Named for an ancient Persian king, this affordable Pinot Noir takes advantage of grapes from throughout the estate Momtazi Vineyard. It reveals bright, beautiful aromas of raspberries and flavors of Rainier cherries.

Mild tannins and good acidity provide ample structure. (4,083 cases) Battle Creek $40 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Corus Estates & Vineyards, based in Seattle, owns this 135-acre vineyard near Willamette Valley Vineyards south of Salem, Ore. This is a dark, brooding wine, revealing aromas and flavors of black truffles, mushrooms and ripe dark cherries. (200 cases) Torii Mor $75 2005 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District This was one of western Oregon’s most challenging vintages in nearly a decade, though better viticultural and winemaking practices led to its success. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of minerally earth, ripe plums and dark cherries. There’s a lot here that has yet to unravel. We’d like to check it again in a couple of years. (171 cases) De Ponte Cellars $38 2005 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Winemaker Isabelle Dutartre used grapes from two vineyards to craft this wine, which exhibits aromas and flavors of black cherries, black truf-

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fles and a hint of cinnamon sticks. It’s a delicious wine with ample acidity and good length. (1,500 cases) Blasted Church $24 CDN 2006 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley The upper and lower estate blocks gave Richard Kanazawa the flexibility to produce a youthful yet dense structure of strawberries and violets. Suggested pairings include seared ahi tuna and mushroom-based risotto. (629 cases) Pend d’Oreille Winery $20 2005 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Owner/winemaker Steve Meyer reached from the top of Idaho nearly to the bottom to find these grapes at Kuna Butte Vineyard in the recently christened Snake River Valley. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of allspice, cinnamon and cherries. Bold fruit flavors are backed by plush tannins. (175 cases) Panther Creek Cellars $40 2004 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This longtime downtown McMinnville, Ore., winery was started

by Ken Wright and now is owned by Silvan Ridge in Eugene. The grapes are from a coveted vineyard southwest of Salem. It’s a rich, bold, dark wine with aromas and flavors of forest floor, tobacco and dark cherries. (468 cases) Torii Mor $60 2005 Temperance Hill Pinot Noir, EolaAmity Hills Temperance Hill is one of the northern Willamette Valley’s most important and prestigious vineyards, and its grapes go into many wineries’ bottles. This wine by Jacque Tardy offers aromas and flavors of violets, raspberries, cherries and other red-toned fruits. It’s an elegant wine with ample underlying acidity. (250 cases) Kathken Vineyards $19 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This panoramic vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills west of Salem, Ore., has 34 acres dedicated to Pinot Noir. This reserve-level wine reveals more of an Old World style, with dark, brooding notes of earth and black cherries.

(500 cases) Best Buy!

Kathken Vineyards $13 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Kathy and Ken Slusser make up the two sides of this Eola-Amity Hills winery’s name. Their grapes come from their 40-acre vineyard, and they also cater to weddings and other parties. This delicious and affordable wine offers aromas and flavors of spicy cherries with solid underlying acidity and good length.

(500 cases)

Henry Estate $30 2003 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley One of the oldest wines in our tasting, this Pinot Noir from Southern Oregon is just being released. It’s from a very warm vintage and reveals aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and leather and is a big, bold wine. (800 cases) Erath Vineyards $40 2005 Prince Hill Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills It’s difficult to believe it’s been four decades since Dick Erath showed up in Oregon to plant grapes and make wine. Now he’s helping to pioneer a wine industry in Arizona and has left his eponymous operation in the able hands of Ste. Michelle and Gary Horner. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of cranberries, black cherries and hints of oak. (672 cases) Foris Vineyards $25 2005 Maple Ranch Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley This reserve-level Pinot Noir comes from Foris’ estate Maple Ranch Vineyard, which is northeast of the winery in Cave Junction, Ore. It’s a beguiling wine with youthful aromas and flavors of cranberries, red currants, Bing cherries and sweet spices.

(398 cases) Anam Cara Cellars $32 2006 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Using grapes from their estate Nicholas Vineyard, Nick and Sheila Nicholas have crafted a wine that reveals aromas and flavors of ripe, dark fruit, along with freshly ground espresso and forest floor. This wine is still several months from being released. (700 cases) Lange Winery and Vineyards $60 2005 Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The fractured basalt soils called “jory” give this area of the northern Willamette Valley its red hue. The grapes for this wine are from high in the Dundee Hills, and it offers aromas and flavors of dark fruit, including currants and Bing cherries, along with some notes that reminded us of truffle oil. (400 cases) Best Buy!

Hip Chicks Do Wine $15 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon The hip chicks are Laurie Lewis and Renee Neely, who set out nearly a decade ago to take the mystery and snobbery out of wine at their urban winery in Portland. There’s certainly nothing pretentious here, as this wine is all about bright aromas and flavors of strawberries and cherries.

Good acidity means it pairs well with many foods and good times. (300 cases) The Four Graces $37 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills After nearly a decade of relatively warm, dry harvests, Mother Nature brought rains in the autumn of 2005. Thankfully, the viticultural

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pinot noir practices learned and repeated through the prior years came into play and the vintage is turning out to be a classic. This wine is showing darker tones at the moment, with aromas and flavors of mushrooms, moist earth, plums and spices. Underneath are some pretty notes of strawberries and ripe cherries. (1,082 cases)

throughout the Yamhill-Carlton District, a profile that often gives the wines darker, more complex notes. That’s certainly the case with this wine, which exhibits aromas and flavors of ripe but brooding fruit and earthy undertones. Some lusciousness does show up on the finish, but this wine still has some unwinding to do. (200 cases)

Blue Pirate $20 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon The “blue pirates” of Dundee, Ore., apparently were bluebirds that would steal hazelnuts out of delivery trucks at the Westnut Hazelnut Factory. This wine is made in the same building, hence the historical — and whimsical — name. This wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of black raspberries, Bing cherries, French vanilla and cardamom. It’s luscious on the palate with a gentle finish. (1,500 cases)

English Estate $29 2006 Gravel Mine Vineyards Pinot Noir, Clark County This winery in Vancouver, Wash., is one of the few Washington producers focusing on estate Pinot Noir. English Estate also is a heavy promoter of its premium bag-in-a-box wines. This wine opens with beautiful aromas of ripe raspberries and sweet spices, which lead to intense flavors of sweet cherries backed with ample acidity.

Kramer Vineyards $35 2005 Rebecca’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District Nearly a decade ago, we gave owner/winemaker Trudy Kramer the moniker “the Queen of Yamhill” because of her longevity and a suit of armor that guarded the vineyard. Trudy’s still going strong, as this wine will attest. It shows off aromas and flavors of dried cherries, fruit leather and sprinkles of chocolate. (100 cases) Oak Knoll Winery $22 2005 Red Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon This may well be the first wine we’ve tasted from the Red Hill Douglas County AVA, a single-vineyard appellation that is an island in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. The wine reveals aromas and flavors of cherries, cranberries, rhubarb and strawberry jam with ample acidity and moderate tannins. (773 cases) Montinore Estate $22 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This longtime winery in Forest Grove, Ore., has been producing underrated wines for the better part of two decades. This Pinot Noir from estate fruit shows off dark tones, including black cherries and crushed herbs, along with a fair bit of oak. (2,023 cases) Indian Creek Winery $17 2006 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Bill Stowe has helped a lot of Idaho winemakers get started. He’s also made a lot of good wines along the way, with his focus generally on Pinot Noir. This is a bright wine with aromas and flavors of ripe cherries, violets and an elegant sweet herbal note. It has ample acidity to pair with everything from pork to prime rib. (890 cases) Elk Cove Vineyards $38 2005 Shea Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Ancient marine sedimentary soils are found

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ADEA Wine Co. $30 2004 Dean-O’s Pinot, Willamette Valley This small producer in northern Yamhill County used grapes from four vineyards, and the barrels were hand selected by co-owner Dean Fisher. It is a darker-toned wine with aromas and flavors of black truffles, black cherries and mushrooms. (450 cases) Cana’s Feast $25 2006 Bricco Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This reserve-level wine, pronounced “BREEko,” is an Italian word that refers to the highest level of a vineyard. This young wine is exhibiting aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and moist earth with a fairly rich mouth feel, supple tannins and good length. (591 cases)

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ries and blackberries. It has a luscious mouth feel and good length. (300 cases) Torii Mor $55 2005 Olalla Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Olalla Vineyard near the Southern Oregon town of Winston was planted in the mid-’70s and purchased by Bob Reid 20 years later. Reid manages the 4.5 acres of Pinot Noir. This wine offers enticing aromas and flavors of black raspberries, black cherries and cloves. Rich tannins and good acidity balance the fruit, making this a wine worth cellaring.

(148 cases) Pleasant Hill Winery $25 2005 Courting Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon Larry Lindvig reaches all the way from his winery in Carnation, Wash., down to this vineyard near tiny Banks, Ore., for his Pinot Noir. It reveals aromas and flavors of ripe Rainier cherries, forest floor and a hint of freshly ground coffee. (64 cases) Dobbes Family Estate $52 2005 Cuvée Noir Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Of his three blended Pinot Noirs, winemaker Joe Dobbes describes this as the most opulent. We would easily agree, as it exhibits aromas and flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and even dark chocolate. It’s big and ripe, yet the underlying acidity props up all the fruit. We think you’ll like it with duck or prime rib. (273 cases)

Winter’s Hill Vineyard $32 2005 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Some of the Gladharts’ 21 acres of vines near Lafayette, Ore., are coming up on two decades old. All the grapes for this wine come from the estate vineyard and show off aromas and flavors of black cherries and even spiced apples. It’s a bold wine with a luscious mouth feel and good length. (750 cases)

Vercingetorix Vineyard $28 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The folks at Willamette Farms near Newberg produce two of Oregon’s most famous crops: hazelnuts and wine grapes. While we love the former, we focus on the latter. This youthful wine shows off bright aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries and hints of white pepper. Its bright acidity and supple tannins give it youthful approachability, and it should pair well with pork, chicken or grilled portobellos.

(467 cases)

Youngberg Hill Vineyards $35 2004 Natasha Block Pinot Noir, McMinnville Because the Coast Range is in the way, it’s easy to forget that the Pacific is just 25 miles west of this vineyard in the northern Willamette Valley. Cool ocean breezes are especially important in a warm vintage like 2004. This is a big wine with aromas and flavors of ripe Bing cherries and dark toasty notes. It has a round mouth feel and solid structure for pairing with roasted meats.

(400 cases)

Bonair Winery $30 2005 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Pinot Noir, Rattlesnake Hills This longtime Yakima Valley winery has released its first Pinot Noir, all from its estate Chateau Puryear Vineyard in Zillah, Wash. The Rattlesnake Hills are in the northern part of the Yakima Valley, which is slightly cooler and has a history of Pinot Noir. This wine provides aromas and flavors of ripe, bright cherries and sweet kitchen spices. It’s loaded with acidity and has a smooth, lengthy finish. (79 cases) ı

ADEA Wine Co. $25 2005 Ann Sigrid Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This reasonably priced wine is a selection of barrels by co-owner Ann Fisher and is a blend of three vineyards. It reveals darker tones, with aromas and flavors of black cher-

AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest.

ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press

Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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Roast Emmer & Winter Squash Risotto with Mangalista Pork Belly and Hazelnut & Rosemary Cracklings matched the Erath Vineyards 2005 Prince Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills.

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Happy anniversary to us!

The Herbfar m’s celebrated new chef pairs six courses with six offerings from the por tfolio of neighboring Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

THE HERBFARM W O O D I N V I L L E , WA S H .

FOR A CATHOLIC, IT COULD BE attending Christmas service at the Basilica of Saint Peter in Rome.

For a golfer, it might be a skins game — then a dram — with a foursome of friends at the Old Course in St. Andrews.

For a lover of Northwest wines, there’s no doubt: It’s a decadent dinner for two at The Herbfarm in Woodinville, Wash.

“These days,” said Ron Zimmerman, standing in the middle of his showpiece cellar, “we have 25,500 bottles in various locations — about half of it here — and 4,247 labels, including the world’s largest selection of Pacific Northwest wines.”

The nine-course, four-hour experience is more than just a tribute to regional wine, though. National Geographic deemed the Herbfarm in 2006 as the No. 1 Destination Restaurant in the World.

And the famed creation of Zimmerman and his wife, Carrie Van Dyck, is held worldwide as a leading example of the Slow Food movement.

“It’s about the table, animals, plant products and dishes unique to each region,” Zimmerman said. “We want people to enjoy the food and spend quality time with family or friends or just reconnect. It so often doesn’t happen today because people are running around trying to catch prime-time TV or watch something on the Internet or play a game or go off to some other event.”

A date at The Herbfarm neither

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

comes cheaply nor on a whim — bookings get filled months in advance at $159 to $189 plus tax and service — but the staff ’s subtle efficiency makes certain each guest’s investment is rewarded.

“The restaurant has come a long ways, but we’ve really held steadfastly to what we’ve wanted to do, which was to be a showcase for the

foods and wines of the Pacific Northwest,” Zimmerman said.

And while the evolution of The Herbfarm seems complete, it hasn’t been without catastrophe.

Zimmerman’s parents began growing The Herbfarm in 1974 as a plant nursery in rural Fall City. In 1986, Zimmerman and Van Dyck transformed a garage into a restaurant.

RECIPE Roasted Emmer & Winter Squash Risotto Serves 4

1 cup Bluebird Grain Farm whole emmer (farro) (See note below.)

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, separated use 1 tablespoon minced smoked bacon 3 ⁄4 cup blue hubbard squash, cut into 1 ⁄2 inch cubes 1 tablespoon shallot, minced kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock 1 cup crème fraiche pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 ⁄4 cup fresh sage leaves 1. Roast emmer in a heavy-bottomed pan over a medium flame until the grain begins to lightly brown and a pleasant nutty scent is released. Reserve and cool.

2. Warm 1 teaspoon of butter in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Once butter has melted, add bacon, squash and shallots. Gently cook over medium heat, stirring often, until softened but still toothsome.

Season liberally with salt and pepper and remove from pan and reserve.

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3. Bring chicken stock to a boil, lower heat to maintain a simmer.

4. Place roasted emmer in saucepan that was used to cook squash with about 1 cup of stock. Bring to a boil and stir while grain cooks as if making a true risotto. Add remaining stock little by little, stirring all the while over a medium-high heat. When all stock has been incorporated add crème fraiche, cooked squash and season with nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all ingredients together well; fold in cheese and olive oil. Cover and reserve warm.

5. Warm remaining butter over medium heat in a saucepan and cook until it begins to lightly brown. Once butter has browned (a foam should appear at this stage), carefully add sage leaves as it will splatter. Once sage has crisped, remove with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. Lightly season with salt.

6. To serve, taste “risotto” and adjust seasoning. Spoon into serving dishes, then crumble sage leaves over top, garnish with a bit more Parmigiano if desired, and serve.

Note: You can purchase emmer online at www.bluebirdgrainfarms.com. And if you’d prefer using pork belly instead of bacon in this dish, you can find out how to purchase at www.woolypigs.com.

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M AT C H M A K E R S Zimmerman was the chef until 1990, which he doesn’t always mention to current-day guests.

“Every night, we have a wine cellar open house for about 30 minutes before the garden tour,” Zimmerman said. “We give a little bit of history of the farm, how we evolved from Fall City, how it burned down (in 1997) and how we moved here.”

The Herbfarm stayed shuttered for two years before finding a temporary home at Hedges Family Estate in Issaquah.

In 2001, The Herbfarm reopened in Woodinville.

Neighbors include Chateau Ste. Michelle, Red Hook Ale Brewery and Willows Lodge.

Jerry Traunfeld’s 17-year acclaimed career as executive chef of The Herbfarm ended Oct. 1. His dream to open his place in the Seattle area signaled the arrival of Keith Luce, one of the country’s most decorated chefs.

Luce, 39, is “no flash in the pan,” a fear that fueled him during the 1990s. And while he’s still being introduced to the Pacific Northwest’s natural pantry, he’s admired the wines from afar.

His roots in the kitchen reach into childhood when he grew up on a Long Island farm, later working in his grandfather’s Italian restaurant in the Hamptons.

Resumé-building began in New York City at famed spots such as La Côte Basque, Le Cirque and the Rainbow Room.

Those led to two years of even more classic experience at Michelin88

Ron Zimmerman

“Everything that we pour in your glass or put on your plate has come from either our own farm or from the Pacific Northwest”

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—RON ZIMMERMAN

star restaurants in Florence, Monte Carlo and Paris.

A stint at the Greenbrier Resort in White Sulfur Springs, W. Va., led to a government job — White House sous chef for President Clinton during his first term.

“It gave me a different appreciation for the term ‘hospitality,’ ” Luce said.

“When welcoming guests into the residence, you are welcoming them into not only ‘America’s House,’ but more importantly, ‘The President’s home.’

That blew away everything I ever thought about food and restaurants.

Now, I think of every person that walks through the door as a guest.”

Acclaim and magazine features came quickly. “The media is very eager to learn more about you and hear about the ‘inner workings of the residence,’ ” he said.

Food & Wine ranked Luce in 1997 among the top 10 chefs in the country. The next year, his meteoric opening of Spruce in Chicago prompted the James Beard Foundation to dub Luce “Rising Star Chef of the Year.”

Next was The Little Nell in Aspen, Colo. And by 1999, his had become executive chef for PlumpJack Group.

Two years later, at the ripe age of 33, Luce returned to the restaurant world and launched another wildly successful project — Merenda in San Francisco. He sold, moved to Napa, and ended up as executive chef at Cosentino Winery.

“It would be great if I was a single guy,” Luce said. “There were lots of trips to Chicago

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THE PERFECT PAIRINGS WINES FOR THIS UNPRECEDENTED MATCH MAKER project — Wine Press Northwest’s 10th Anniversary Dinner at The Herbfarm — came courtesy of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, its headquarters just a Tiger Woods 1-iron away.

“The thing that made it fun to cook these dishes was the firm acidity and the structure with all of the wines,” Luce said.

We asked Luce to share recipes for two of his six pairings.

He chose one entrée and a dessert: Roast Emmer & Winter Squash Risotto with Mangalista Pork Belly and Hazelnut & Rosemary Cracklings matched the Erath Vineyards 2005 Prince Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills.

Erath winemaker Gary Horner attended the dinner and described his Prince Hill project for Luce’s guests.

“It’s about 20 acres of Pinot Noir, and I’ve got eight different sub-blocks in there,” he said. “What I try to do is to build a wine that that is typical of Prince Hill, which tends to have a little bit of an earthy tone and brighter red fruits. I basically elect certain barrels from certain blocks. It tends to be in barrel for 13 to 15 months and away we go.

“The 2005 vintage was a little more classic vintage for Pinot Noir in Oregon — a really long, cool growing season and really bright refreshing fruits, lower alcohol and a little more elegant style,” he added.

Luce noted, “The earthiness really stood out to me. I thought it was important to pay homage to that with the dish. And that elegant texture really stood out, too.”

So he opted for a grain new to Washington state called emmer, which is known in Italy as farro.

“We toasted the whole berry of wheat and made a risotto with it out of blue hubbard squash to give a sweet earthiness to it,” Luce explained.

For his guests, he topped the dish with Mangalista pork belly, which he gets from Heath Putnam’s Wooly Pigs operation at Rocky Ridge Ranch in Reardan, Wash.

“It’s very close to what a wild boar would be like,” Luce said. “Mangalista is a type of pig that comes from central Europe, namely Hungary and Austria.”

The nectar for the dessert course was the succulent Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine from the Horse Heaven Hills.

Ste. Michelle enologist Kara Koh described the wine’s biography for the audience.

“Ice wines are always a labor of love. Sometimes you get them, and sometimes you don’t,” she said. “In 2007, we didn’t get one because it didn’t freeze. In 2006 and

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in 2004 — on Halloween — Bob Bertheau had to leave his daughter’s trick-or-treating and rush to the vineyards to harvest.

“It all comes from the Horse Heaven Vineyard, which is right by Columbia Crest Winery,” she added. “We save a draw of vines in hopes that the grapes freeze.

It’s about a 12-hour pressing for these berries to press out their juice. It’s a nectar. It’s a lot of great apricot and honey characters. It’s just beautiful.”

Luce served it with his Gala Apple & Rogue River Blue Cheese Soufflé.

“It was a fun wine to pair a dish with,” he said.

“Immediately, everybody on the staff who was tasting shouted out, “Blue Cheese!” “Honey!” So I was taking all the things that I was tasting along with what (sommeliers) Tysan (Pierce) and Lisa (Rongren) and Ron and Carrie were saying and sort of put it all into one — a apple soufflé with Rogue River blue cheese.

“The base of it is a Gala apple purée,” Luce continued. “When you are pairing a sweet course with a sweet wine, it’s important for the food to stay less sweet than the wine. You are toeing the line of not getting sweet enough, but I hope we got just the right sweetness.”

He nailed it, right on the sweet spot.

A DINNER TO REMEMBER

THE COMPLETE LINEUP OF WINES AND PAIRINGS included: ıϧDomaine Ste. Michelle 2000 Luxe, Blanc de blanc, Columbia Valley: Montana Paddlefish Caviar on Quail Egg Benedict; Dungeness Crab Cake with Smoked Steelhead Caviar; and King Salmon Tartar with Beet Caviar and Douglas Fir Salt ıϧChateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills: Puget Sound Shellfish Chowder, Scented with Herbfarm Kaffir Lime Leaves ıϧChateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley: Riesling-Poached Breast of Guinea Hen with Liver Crostini, Ari Kara Bean, Leeks & Lemon Thyme-Scented Carrots ıϧErath Vineyards 2005 Prince Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills: Roast Emmer & Winter Squash Risotto with Mangalista Pork Belly and Hazelnut & Rosemary Cracklings ıSpring Valley Vineyard 2004 Uriah, Walla Walla Valley: Grilled Oregon Wagyu Beef Savoy-Spinach-King Bolete Gratin and a Root Vegetable and Huckleberry Condiment ıNext came a palate cleanser: Sorbet of Cabernet Franc with Warm Rose Geranium Syrup. ıChateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills: Gala Apple & Rogue River Blue Cheese Soufflé.

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Gala Apple and Rogue River Blue Cheese Soufflé Serves 6

1 1⁄4 cup sugar, separated use 6 Gala apples, peeled, seeded and diced salt 3 1⁄2 cups milk 6 eggs, separated 3 ⁄4 cup all purpose flour butter and sugar for coating ramekins 12 teaspoons Rogue River blue cheese

To make the apple base, place 1⁄2 cup sugar in a non-reactive saucepan and place over a moderate flame. Bring to a medium-dark caramel stage.

2. Place apples in a saucepan for which you have a tight fitting lid.

Carefully pour caramel over and season lightly with salt. Cover and bake at 375°F until apples are tender. Allow apples to cool to room temperature and purée in a food processor or pass through a food mill. Set aside.

3. To make the pastry cream, place milk in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a boil.

4. In a mixing bowl, whisk together 3 ⁄4 cup sugar and six egg yolks, then 1.

Keith Luce, center, oversees sous chef Toby Kim, left, and lead cook Edouardo Jordan.

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whisk in flour.

5. Carefully and slowly pour boiling milk over egg mixture and whisk all the while.

6. Return milk mixture to heat and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Once mixture nears a boil, remove from heat, mix above apple mixture in well, transfer to a shallow container and cool immediately.

Reserve in refrigerator.

7. To prepare the soufflé, first liberally butter and sugar six 6 oz. ramekins 8. Whip six egg whites to a stiff peak.

9. Fold egg whites gently into 2 cups of the soufflé base from above.

(Remaining soufflé base will keep well in freezer for about 4 months.)

10. Fill each ramekin halfway with soufflé mix, place about 2 teaspoons crumbled Rogue River blue cheese in the middle, then fill ramekin to about 1 ⁄2 inch from the rim.

11. Place ramekins on a baking sheet, place in a preheated 375°F oven, and pour about 1 inch of hot water onto pan and bake for about 30 minutes. Soufflés should rise and have a creamy but somewhat dry center.

and Europe, but I was ready to stay in one place.”

Now he’s putting down roots and enjoying wine in the Northwest.

“The decision to accept this position was an easy,” Luce said. “The Northwest is an amazing palate of products and producers, and The Herbfarm is a perfect platform to showcase them.”

Last fall, Zimmerman earned our Best Northwest Wine List for the seventh straight year. How much of his inventory is regional? About 75 percent. And to show he’s not one to rest on his laurels, he’s added more than a 100 labels and 1,500 bottles in the past six months.

“Can you have enough? I don’t think so, but our sommeliers sure do when they have to move it all around,” Zimmerman said with a slight smirk.

Just think what his cellar would be like were it not for the fire.

“We lost only about a quarter of the collection,” Zimmerman said with a developed level of detachment.

“We had done an autumn remodel, so some of the wine that would have been in that (fire) area was in storage. A lot of things from the ’70s and early ’80s would have been lost.”

One of his prized possessions is a bottle of The Eyrie Vineyards 1975 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir. It’s signed by winemaker David Lett.

“This is the beast that put Oregon on the map,” Zimmerman said, cradling the bottle.

When asked how long he’s had it, Zimmerman deadpanned, “Oh, a few years. I have to fund David’s retirement program.”

That wine is on The Herbfarm’s famous 160-page Wine Library.

“It’s 347,000 keystrokes,” Zimmerman quipped. “The leather cover costs $50 apiece, and the (fullcolor) inside pages cost $30 for each set, so it becomes pretty pricey.”

And trip to the washroom takes patrons through part of the cellar, which holds more than 1,000 different Pinot Noirs.

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M AT C H M A K E R S “There are some good deals here,” Zimmerman said. “Since we have the wine list online, a lot of people have a hobby of eating their sandwich at their desk at work and searching. So they come strolling into the restaurant and immediately order something that makes me go, ‘Oh my gosh, why didn’t I raise price?’ Well, that’s part of the fun folks.”

The experience begins at 6 p.m. with a tour of the grounds and some history from Van Dyck, who comfortably uses the staircase behind the fireplace as a podium.

Moments later, guests are seated in the dimly lit dining room that combines a Victorian décor with a goodnatured bit of Zimmerman’s kitschy fish-themed eBay wins.

Then, Van Dyck strolls under small spotlights. An evening at The Herbfarm is not unlike going to a theater performance. Van Dyck introduces Zimmerman, who then brings out Luce. The menu is described in detail by the new chef. Meanwhile, behind the heavy velvet dark brown curtain, Luce’s supporting cast busily yet quietly prepares the first of the nine-course meal.

“Everything that we pour in your glass or put on your plate has come from either our own farm or from the Pacific Northwest, essentially a region we’ve come to define as one where salmon used to dominate,” Zimmerman said.

Gala Apple & Rogue River Blue Cheese Soufflé paired with Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills.

The Herbfarm, 14590 NE 145th Street, Woodinville, WA, 425-4855300, theherbfarm.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press

Northwest’s managing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting.

Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures.

Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate.

The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity.

The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Competitions To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Oregon State Fair, Northwest Wine Summit, Okanagan Fall Wine Competition, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Northwest Wine & Food Fest, Capital Food & Wine Fest and Greatest of the Grape.

Dick Ferraro turned the fruit into a bright and rustic drink with cherries, herbs, pleasing milk chocolate and bold tannins.

E. B. Foote Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 183 cases, $18

Recommended. Graves and Milbrandt vineyards

produced all the Cab, including the Cab Franc (6%), for this food-friendly release filled with vanilla oak notes, raspberry jam and sour cherry candy.

Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 216 cases, $25

Recommended. Eastern Washington fruit went to

Idaho’s Rockies, where it evolved into notes of cherry jam, strawberry fruit leather and green bell pepper. A hint of tartness should make this good dinner company for Italian food.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 4,764 cases, $30

Outstanding! Each year, Marty Clubb cherry-picks

from some of the best and most mature vineyards in Washington — Bacchus & Dionysus, Candy Mountain, Klipsun, Pepper Bridge, Portteus, Stone Tree — and estate Seven Hills in Oregon. And each year, this is one of his best bottlings. Inviting are aromas of blackberries and oak, cherry cola and earth — a thumbprint of Seven Hills. Rewarding is the palate, rich on the entry with blackberries, black raspberries and moist earth. Cherries carry on through to the finish, riding through supple but sturdy tannins.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Reds Cabernet Sauvignon Airfield Estates NV Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 230 cases, $24

Outstanding! This new winery in the Vintners Village of Prosser, Wash., has a beautiful building and is producing several gorgeous wines under the direction of Marcus Miller. This superb effort shows off aromas of black raspberries, green peppercorns and milk chocolate, followed by smooth flavors of berries. It’s a beguilling wine with a sweet mouth feel, supple tannins and well-integrated oak.

Barnard Griffin Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 7,000 cases, $17

Outstanding! The previous vintage earned a

Double Platinum for Rob Griffin, and this has a similar feel to it. Beautiful oak ushers in hints of cherries, vanilla, chocolate and sarsaparilla.

Awaiting is a nice blend of cherries and brambleberries with a juiciness that stretches out into an exploding midpalate of smoooooth boysenberries and wild blackberries, then finishes with rich dark chocolate. In many retail shops, this will be priced at the Best Buy! level.

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Basel Cellars Estate Winery

Walla Walla Valley, 1,761 cases, $37

winery showcases cassis, blueberries, cedar and leaf tobacco with a nice structured that will sidle up well to tomato-based Italian dishes and artisan pizza.

Outstanding! The little school house in Lowden, Wash., provides a geology lesson by crisscrossing the valley, tapping into Seven Hills and Loess, Va Piano and Pepper Bridge as well as Yellow Jacket. Combined results start in the nose with dark cherry, cedar, herbs, coffee and green peppercorn. Opulent black cherry and blackberry flavors meld with complementary chocolate for a juicy and jammy structure.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Northwest Totem Cellars

2004 Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley, 900 cases, $38

Yakima Valley, 183 cases, $30

Outstanding! Winemaker Bob Bertheau scoured

Recommended. The Cab came from Elerding Vineyard, and there’s a dose of Merlot (5%) from Chandler Reach, too. Combined, they help produce a sturdy release that’s big on purple fruit, Belgian chocolate, vanilla, leather and black tea.

2005 Pheasant Run Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 1,058 cases, $36

Recommended. Estate fruit from this destination

the Columbia Valley for the best grapes he could find for this reserve-level Cab. About 30% came from select vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope and Red Mountain AVAs. This is, perhaps, the finest effort yet in the Ethos line. It opens with aromas of rich berries, sweet herbs and chocolate, followed by flavors of dark berries, black currants and milk chocolate. Firm tannins give this wine plenty of structure and had us thinking about pairing it with tenderloin.

Ferraro Cellar 2005 Hillside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 102 cases, $21

Recommended. Haake’s Hillside Vineyard in The

Dalles, Ore., is managed by Lonnie Wright, and

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Robert Karl Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 725 cases, $29

Outstanding! The Gunselmans don’t feel the need to hurry their wines, exemplified by leaving this in 95% new oak for 26 months. And the Horse Heaven Hills production, part of it estate, leads with cherry wood embers, black cherries, chocolate, vanilla and mocha aromas. Black plum flavors, joined by juicy cherries and cranberries make this an opulent offering that’s nearly absent of tannin. Thankfully, they haven’t W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases raised the price, but they’ve increased production by nearly 50%.

Saint Laurent Winery 2005 Mrachek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope, 508 cases, $28

Outstanding! Winemaker Craig Mitrakul rounded out the edges of this superb Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot. The resulting wine is stunning with complex aromas of dark fruit and well-integrated oak, followed by flavors of perfectly ripe blackberries, black licorice, chocolate, pencil shavings and oak. Beautifully balanced from beginning to end, this can be enjoyed now with grilled meats or vegetables.

San Juan Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 398 cases, $20

Outstanding! Some quality fruit from Eastern Washington — Jones, Alder Creek, Kiona and Kestrel — made the sweet ferry ride to Friday Harbor. Those grapes turned into juicy brambleberries and coffee aromas that hit on a lot pleasure buttons. There’s a richness and boldness to the palate with black currants and black cherries, and they strike a balance with tannins and acidity.

Spangler Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Southern Oregon, 160 cases, $24

Recommended. Aromas of blackberries, earth,

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toast, tar and cedar wave you in for a closer look. Inside, the structure turns to flavors of pie cherries, Italian spices and nougat. The lighter style and youthful tannins should sidle up to a plate of spaghetti and meatballs. Three years of patience also should be rewarded.

Spangler Vineyards 2003 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Umpqua Valley, 92 cases, $40

Excellent. Chicago native Patrick Spangler pur-

chased La Garza Cellars in 2004, and these barrels were part of the inventory. So, he decided to sit on them and see what happened. After 46 months in barrel, he chose to sell them only through the tasting room. The experiment results in aromas of blackberries, cherry vanilla and leaf tobacco, followed by flavors of more cherries. It’s a smooth, medium-bodied wine with a finish of mouth-coating cocoa and marshmallow flavors.

Stemilt Creek Winery

WINE REVIEWS

’37 Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 25 cases, $36

Excellent. Two fellows with a fascination for flat-top guitars made in 1937 by the C.F. Martin Guitar Co., now collaborate as Leavenworth winemakers. And talk about a jam session. Frank Dechaine and Chuck Egner sent out a small release with aromas of black cherries, raspberries strawberry leaf. Blackberry jam, chocolate, moist earth and crushed walnuts for the flavor base with assertive tannins in the finish.

Tildio Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 50 cases, $30

Excellent. This operation by Katy Perry and her

husband in Manson, Wash., works in very small lots, with this being of average size. They pack quite a punch, though, and their Cab features bright cherries, red currants, candela leaf tobacco, chai and young tannins wrapped in chocolate.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Two Mountain Winery

Washington, 301 cases, $30

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Recommended. This new Wenatchee, Wash.,

Yakima Valley, 380 cases, $25

winery goes Old World on the approach with lots of red fruit and herbal undertones. Nice cranberries and dusty cherries are loosely wrapped by leafiness and dill on the midpalate.

Racy acidity should allow this wine to age gracefully.

Outstanding! This third-generation vineyard in the

Rattlesnake Hills is producing top-notch wines, thanks to Matthew Rawn and his brother Patrick.

Big blackberries, blueberries and juicy cherries are met by a pinch of herbs and expertly integrated oak. The chocolate drips out of this wine.

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Troon Vineyard 2005 Buren Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Appelgate Valley, 98 cases, $39

Recommended. At 1,215 feet elevation, this is one

of the lowest vineyards this winery taps into.

And the direction of this Cab heads toward red fruit with strawberry Laffy Taffy, pie cherries, vanilla extract and talcum powder notes.

Merlot Airfield Estates 2005 Merlot Yakima Valley, 196 cases, $22

Recommended. Winemaker Marcus Miller has crafted a delicious Merlot from estate vineyards in this new Prosser, Wash., winery’s first release. It opens with aromas of rosemary, cherries, black olives and oak, followed by flavors of chocolate, black cherries, plums, leather and tobacco.

Barnard Griffin Winery

from this remarkable Richland, Wash., winery.

There’s a warm, aromatic greeting of black cherries, walnuts, cedar and alder smoke. The entry is dominated by sweetened canned pie cherries, dense blackberries and dark chocolate. Its structure is wrapped around nice acidity and mellow tannins that only peek out a bit in the finish.

Cascadia Winery

winery for the first time. This reserve-level Merlot uses grapes from Canoe Ridge Estate in the Horse Heaven Hills and Indian Wells on the Wahluke Slope. It opens with aromas of sage, berries and chocolate, followed by flavors of plums, chocolate-covered cherries and a sweet herbal note. Firm tannins give this age-worthiness, or pop the cork with a grilled steak.

2006 Merlot

Ferraro Cellar

Wahluke Slope, 190 cases, $24

2005 Hillside Vineyard Merlot

Excellent. Tedd Wildman’s commanding Stone

Columbia Valley, 136 cases, $21

Tree Vineyard takes center stage in this bottling.

Black cherries, marionberries, crushed walnut, vanilla bean and bit of charcoal briquette extend an invitation. There’s charisma to this wine with more cherries and vanilla extract on the attack, joined by black licorice. It’s not overbearing with its tannin structure, and this should pair well with a charred burger or a tomato-based pasta dish.

Recommended. Dick Ferraro is a retired govern-

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2004 Merlot

ment forester, and there are aromas of cedar and pencil shavings playing out among the sundried tomatoes and red peppercorns. It’s cherries and chocolate on the tongue, though, with bright acidity and gripping tannins that will marry well with a grilled porterhouse.

E.B. Foote Winery

2004 Ethos Merlot

Columbia Valley, 451 cases, $18

2005 Reserve Merlot

Columbia Valley, 1,200 cases, $38

Columbia Valley, 336 cases, $30

Excellent. This lighter-style, zesty and balanced

Recommended. In 2004, Bob Bertheau oversaw

Outstanding! Opulence best describes this wine

the red winemaking for Washington’s flagship

Merlot from Milbrandt, Graves and Arianses vineyards spent 22 months in oak, which shows

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Cayalla Winery

Lone Canary

2004 RTW Red Table Wine

NV Bird House Red

Columbia Valley, 12,998 cases, $13

Columbia Valley, 490 cases, $15

Excellent. Firesteed has been known to pro-

Outstanding! No doubt this is the Spokane

duce consumer-friendly Pinot Noir in Oregon, and here’s its second label. Part of this blend of Cab Franc, Cab, Merlot and Syrah hails from the Walla Walla Valley, which is remarkable considering the winterkill in that vintage.

It starts with an amazing whiff of a dusty road after a thundershower, joined by cranberries, vanilla, toast and sage aromas. The structure is sassy with juicy pie cherries, plums, black pepper and bittersweet chocolate from oak.

house wine for Washington gold finches.

Outlook and Willard Family vineyards form the base of this blend, and Syrah flies in at 55%, followed by Cab Sauv (22%), Merlot (21%) and a dropping of Sangiovese (2%). Aromas of black cherries, vanilla and cedar leave you perched for more, which you get in smooth fashion with a hint of understated sweetness.

There’s such nice relationship between the fruit, tannins and acidity that it’s a tremendous food wine. Only a birdbrain would dismiss this.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery NV Farmhouse Red

Magnificent Wine Co.

American, 2,020 cases, $10

2005 Steak House

Excellent. Jason Bull continues to raise the

Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $10

quality of the wines at the Forest Grove., Ore., winery. This wide-ranging blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Grenache, Tempranillo, Cab, Cab Franc and Zinfandel is focused on fruit. And there’s lots of that with blueberries, Bing cherries, milk chocolate and sour cherry candy notes. There’s a quiet, mouth-coating structure with comfortable balance and rewarding acidity.

Excellent. One of the Northwest’s most recogniz-

Indian Creek Winery 2006 Syrah Snake River Valley, 48 cases, $13

Excellent. It’s only about two barrels from off the

estate vines, but Bill Stowe doesn’t seem to mind practically giving this away.

Boysenberries, marionberries, dusty cherries, chocolate and cut-plug tobacco aromas set the table for flavors of sweet cherries, blueberries and brambleberries with the seeds. Easy tannins, good acidity and a sendoff of cherry tomatoes will pair nicely with pasta dishes, kebabs and a hunter’s quarry.

Lone Canary 2006 Barbera Wahluke Slope, 432 cases, $15

Excellent. Milbrandt Northridge Vineyard allows

Spokane’s Mike Scott to make an affordable wine for those intrigued by this Italian variety.

A spoonful of Smucker’s raspberry jam, strawberries, leather, cola and tobacco leaf aromas transition onto the palate in much the same fashion. An inviting silky sweetness follows some midpalate tartness, and there’s remarkable acidity to pair with Italian fare.

able labels also is among its most affordable.

It’s all Cabernet Sauvignon and quite approachable with black cherries, leather, milk chocolate and spice tones. Suggested fare: steak.

This expression is a classic Old World style featuring cassis, spicy cloves, Italian herbs and mountain berries throughout. Racy acidity and the juicy midpalate should go nicely with a marbled steak, Italian sausage or meatloaf.

Six Prong 2004 Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 4,150 cases, $13

Outstanding! Alder Ridge along the Columbia River produces some of the best and widest range of fruit in Washington. This blend of Cab Franc (35%), Cab Sauv (25%), Sangiovese (15%), Merlot (10%), Syrah (10%) and Barbera exhales fresh Bing cherries, rhubarb, sour cherry candy, baking spice and herbal notes. It’s a big mouthful of spicy black cherries, strawberries and raspberries with balanced tannins.

Modest acidity means it should be enjoyed in the next two years, and the screwcap means there’s no need to worry about cork taint.

Stemilt Creek Winery 2004 Estate Grown Stemilt Hill Red Washington, 104 cases, $15

Pend d’Oreille Winery

Recommended. The Mathison family in

2005 Bistro Rouge

Wenatchee produced a blend of Cab Sauv (51%), Syrah (42%) and Merlot that’s an approachable, drink-now wine loaded with black fruit, herbal and anise tones, rich oak and a wealth of food-friendly acidity. Enjoy paired with a herb-rubbed grilled pork chop.

Washington, 1,907 cases, $11

Outstanding! Utterly unbelievable. Stephen Meyer extends his consecutive streak of “Outstanding” ratings to at least four, which is as far back as this database goes. The blend changes a bit, this time it’s 46-23-17-8-6 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cab Franc, Malbec), yet remains chock full of cherry and crushed leaf. Call this big, jammy, balanced and with a wealth of acidity. And it’s still a bargain.

Rainier Ridge 2005 Merlot Washington, 4,000 cases, $6

Excellent. Modestly priced and mellow Merlots still have their place in society, thankfully.

Aromas of this start with sweet oak spice, huckleberries, raspberries, black currants and fresh mint. A bold entry of plush fruit, including blackberry jam and plums, supple tannins and nice acidity make this decidedly drinkable.

Ste. Chapelle 2005 Winemaker’s Series Cabernet Sauvignon Idaho, $9

Recommended. Chuck Devlin’s success in competitions throughout the country, and his price points, have been key to Idaho’s reputation.

Washington Hills Winery 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 10,000 cases, $8

Excellent. It doesn’t go for a lot at the store, but there’s a lot going for this quick quaffer.

Enticing aromas of cherries, mint toffee, cinnamon, juniper, thyme and olives drop into flavors of black cherries and orange pekoe tea.

The softness means drink now. The price means you can drink it often. Enjoy with pizza.

Waterbrook Winery 2005 Merlot-Cab Columbia Valley, 2,986 cases, $12

Excellent. Alder Ridge along the Columbia

River and the young Oasis Vineyard near Red Mountain contribute the 60/40 breakdown that imparts notes of plums, sour cherries, bittersweet chocolate, mint and amaretto. It’s a smooth drink with currants on the midpalate and finishes with a big dose of acidity and bit of caramel.

in the nose of vanilla almond tea and horehound candy, but there’s cherry and strawberry/rhubarb pie first and foremost.

cherries, vanilla bean, hazelnut-flavored coffee and chocolate notes. It’s smooth and sturdy with more plums in the finish.

Fielding Hills Winery

Frenchman’s Gulch

2005 Merlot

2005 Merlot

Wahluke Slope, 199 cases, $36

Washington, 192 cases, $25

Icicle Ridge Winery

Recommended. Mike Wade of East Wenatchee,

Excellent. Most of the grapes came from Dwelley

2006 Vintners Reserve Merlot

Wash., ripened up his RiverBend estate grapes into a hedonistic assortment of plums, Bing

in Walla Walla and ended up in Ketchum, Idaho, at the winery of Steve McCarthy. His

Excellent. A photo of proprietor Louis Wagoner’s

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

expression with this variety starts with aromas of brambleberries, freshly laid tar and NECCO Wafer candy. That’s followed up on the broadly structured palate with blackberries and dark plums, ample acidity and chocolaty tannins.

Washington, 190 cases, $50

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recent releases

1950 Chevy adorns the label, and it’s pretty easy driving through this bottle of Merlot from Mattawa. Montmorency cherries, toffee, earthiness, leather, sarsaparilla and ripe plum notes steer into a creamy smooth structure that’s nearly absent of tannin on the midpalate. Enjoy this within a couple of years.

Patrick Merry’s production in Pullman, Wash., shows plenty of black cherries, dark berries and sweet American oak tones. There’s also a nice black strap molasses sweetness on the entry with a pleasing rustic structure on the midpalate and some smooth Bing cherries on the finish.

L’Ecole No. 41

2004 Merlot

Northstar

2005 Merlot

Columbia Valley, 10,000 cases, $41

Columbia Valley, 6,082 cases, $30

Outstanding! It’s mostly Merlot, but Cab and Petit

Outstanding! This variety has taken a hit the past

Verdot supply additional power in one of the Northwest’s most famous wines. David Merfeld maintains the tradition that Napa rock star Jed Steele helped launch and now watches from afar.

Blueberries, black cherries, vanilla, tar and cocoa powder aromas transcend into a fundamental backbone of blackberries and juicy raspberries with some crushed leaf character in the midpalate. The tannins merely impart some traction before a finish of Green & Black’s dark chocolate.

few years, but it deserves its place. In fact, Marty Clubb reached into nine different vineyards and four appellations, but the effort was worth it.

Raspberries, currants, cherries, marshmallow, a hint of vanilla and a whiff of game tickle the nose. Then, there’s a mirror of flavors on a fullcherry midpalate, light and smooth tannins, a wealth of cranberry acidity and a pleasing finish.

Merry Cellars 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot

Robert Karl Cellars

Columbia Valley, 127 cases, $30

2005 Merlot

Excellent. Not often is Viognier (3%) or Carménère

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $24

(2%) blended with Merlot, but this works well.

Outstanding! Don’t look sideways at this release of

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Merlot (75%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Malbec. Horse Heaven Hills vineyards produced most of this, getting support from Verhey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Bright blackberries, blueberries and plums fill the corners of this wine, with hints of vanilla and fresh herbs in the background. Terrific balance, solid tannins and lingering berries in the finish make this tough to put down.

Saint Laurent Winery 2005 Mrachek Vineyards Merlot Wahluke Slope, 772 cases, $19

Recommended. Here’s a nicely priced Merlot that

opens with aromas of of plums, cherries, black pepper and a bit of oak, followed by straightforward flavors of loganberries and marionberries.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2004 Barrel Select Merlot Columbia Valley, 220 cases, $28

Excellent. Larry Lehmbecker went for 100% Merlot from Klingele, Upland and nearby Christopher vineyards, then he ushered it through 20 months of predominately new French oak. The telltale signs are in the graham cracker notes, backed

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recent releases by straightforward and tasty red currants, sweet cherries and light herbs.

Volcano Vineyards 2005 Aguila Vineyard Merlot Rogue Valley, 290 cases, $24

Recommended. This 1,600-feet elevation site near

Ashland, Ore., produced a lighter-style Merlot and the red tone from a dose of Cab Franc (7%) adds to the lighter cherry, blueberry and vanilla tones. Its juicy structure should marry well with marinated flank steak or savory fare.

Syrah

mitted ALL the income from his new winery to The Breast Cancer Fund in memory of his wife, Debbie, who died in 2004. He promised to follow through on their dream, and this is his first commercial wine — a single barrel made from Morrison Lane and Cougar Crest fruit. And it’s true to the variety with blackberries, coffee, moist earth, sarsaparilla and alfalfa. Rich black cherries enrich the midpalate and give way to cherry cola and strawberries in the farewell.

Respectful acidity should allow this to build some strong memories.

E.B. Foote Winery 2006 Graves Vineyard Syrah

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Columbia Valley, 270 cases, $18

2004 Ethos Syrah

Excellent. Sherrill Miller often prefers to blend, but

Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $28

the fact that she made a vineyard-designated Syrah hints at what’s in your glass. Plums, cherries and bacon fat aromas swirl into flavors of first-crop cherries and juicy purple blackberries.

It’s an honest wine that’s on the come but already holds great food applications, such as salmon, lamb, braised ribs or a Southern-style BBQ.

Excellent. Winemaker Bob Bertheau typically has

a wide range of grape sources from which to choose, and he gets very particular for this reserve-level wine. About 70% of the grapes came from the warm Wahluke Slope. This opens with aromas of black raspberries and something that reminded us of Black Forest cake, followed by flavors of blackberries, plums and black olives. It’s well balanced with mild tannins.

Graves Cellars 2005 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 25 cases, $43

Recommended. Seattle’s Doug Graves has com-

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WINE REVIEWS

Heaven Hills that can stand up to any at twice the price. Scents include raspberries, first-ofthe-season cherries, toaster pastry, cedar and Chinese Five-Spice. There’s a massive and beautiful fruit entry on the racy palate with blackberries and boysenberries, proper acidity and an oak-influenced chocolate finish.

Hip Chicks Do Wine 2005 Windy Ridge Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $18.

Excellent. Portland-based chicks Laurie Lewis and Renee Neely continue to reach into Washington. This trip to the Horse Heaven Hills brought back a rather decadent drink.

Hints of pomegranate, strawberry candy, cedar and vanilla deliver in full force on the palate.

The rich mouth feel features a spoon of chocolate pudding and spicy cherries with bright acidity.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 2,480 cases, $25

Excellent. Many Syrahs made in Walla Walla are

Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Syrah Washington, 216 cases, $25

Outstanding! One would think that Mac

McCarthy would charge more for his wines, considering his winery is in Sun Valley. Well, here’s a Syrah from Alder Creek in the Horse

not grown within the valley. Here’s another.

Bacchus, Candy Mountain, Clifton, Pheasant, Stone Tree and Willard were added to Seven Hills fruit. Together, they produced a juicy blackberry structure with complex layers of currants, plums, chocolate, juniper, nutmeg and savory herbs.

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Michael Florentino Cellars 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 29 cases, $32

Excellent. The proprietor of the new Winemaker’s

Loft in Prosser, Wash., flashes his skills with this hot Rhône variety in smooth but not ponderous fashion. Black raspberries, bacon, chocolate, cherries, freshly laid tar and green peppercorns fill the nose. Big raspberry flavors transition into bright acidity, light tannins and black cherries on the finish.

Northwest Totem Cellars

ing young guns in the fast-moving Washington wine industry. He has some terrific grapes to work with from estate fruit on the warm Wahluke Slope. This Syrah was co-fermented with 8% Viogner in the Côte-Rôtie style and opens with aromas of black cherries, black fruit jam, chocolate, black pepper and a nice aroma of sweet oak. On the palate are flavors of black fruit, black currants, blackberries and pencil shavings.

A well-balanced and well-made wine.

Smasne Cellars 2005 Estate Syrah

2005 Syrah

Yakima Valley, 90 cases, $35

Columbia Valley, 185 cases, $30

Excellent. The family vineyard gave Robert

Outstanding! Mike Sharadin’s commitment to

Smasne plenty to work with and express. Hints of boysenberries, black cherries, black pepper, tar, vanilla and bit of game meat rear up from the glass. The smooth drink also is true to the variety with cherries and tar, blackberry jam and plum sauce on the midpalate and a stream of acidity, then a bit of grip in the finish.

quality shows before you open the bottle with his use of the Vino-Lok glass cork. And this Syrah off Sagemoor starts with aromas of Bing and Montmorency cherries, sun-dried tomatoes, oregano and thyme. On the palate, it’s a conversation piece of smooth and juicy black cherries and brambleberries.

Spring Valley Vineyard

Olympic Cellars Winery

2005 Nina Lee Estate Syrah

2004 Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah

Walla Walla Valley, 343 cases, $50

Horse Heaven Hills, 155 cases, $25

Excellent. This label is the tribute to Frederick

Recommended. Dark blackberries, blueberries and

Cockrum’s beautiful wife, a former vaudeville performer in Walla Walla. And modern-day vintner Serge Laville left nothing behind the curtain with this 100% Syrah, exhibiting pleasing oak, sweet blackberries, balance and boatloads of chocolate as the big encore.

oak tones speak loudly throughout this release from Port Angeles, Wash. Hints of maple syrup, tobacco and mocha add to its pleasing structure.

Page Cellars 2005 Syrah Red Mountain, 482 cases, $37

Thurston Wolfe

Excellent. Blackberries. Bacon fat. Chocolate

2005 Syrah

cake. Those are some of the telltale indicators of Northwest Syrah, and they are found around and inside this Woodinville, Wash., program that Matt Loso (Matthews Cellars) consults on. There’s also alder smoke, tar and cola to go along with the huge structure typical of Klipsun fruit. It’s light on tannin but big on age-worthy acidity.

Columbia Valley, 320 cases, $20

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2005 Syrah Washington, 545 cases, $21

Recommended. Here’s an Idaho winery tapping into the Columbia Valley for ripe reds. Stephen Meyer drove to the Willow Crest, Pleasant and Roza vineyards to give him a soft and supple Syrah with notes of cherry pie, sun-dried tomatoes, a bit of char, nice minerality and firm tannins.

Saint Laurent Winery 2005 Mrachek Vineyards Syrah Wahluke Slope, 772 cases, $22

Recommended. One of the real up-and-coming

wineries in Washington is this small producer near Wenatchee. Most of its estate grapes are on the warm Wahluke Slope, where this wine originates. In addition to 97% Syrah, it also blends in a bit of Viognier and Counoise, two other Rhône grapes. This opens with aromas of red licorice, black olives and a whisper of pencil shavings, followed by elegant, focused flavors of red and black currants.

Saint Laurent Winery 2005 Reserve Syrah Wahluke Slope, 276 cases, $40

Recommended. Craig Mitrakul is one of the emerg-

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Outstanding! Our 2007 Washington Winery of the Year continues to impress with this work via vineyards from Andrews (Horse Heaven Hills) and Burgess (near the Tri-Cities). Its life surrounded by 15 months on American oak shows with notes of vanilla and tobacco joining dusty blackberries and a fresh portabello mushroom.

Lively and lovely cherry and raspberry flavors shine alongside the bright acidity that portends for longevity.

Tildio Winery 2005 Vina Ladera Vineyard Estate Syrah Columbia Valley, 48 cases, $29

Outstanding! This Chelan County site shows promise, especially with Katy Perry tending it from bud break to bottle. Black cherries, chocolate, raspberries, green peppercorns and a hint of coffee awaken the nose. The sweet entry is juicy with cherry jam, more raspberries and smooth going down. It can’t get any better than this, so buy a case — if possible — and enjoy with a tapenade that includes anchovies.

Troon Vineyards 2005 Steelhead Run Vineyard Reserve Syrah Applegate Valley, 150 cases, $39

Excellent. Ron Burley’s site in southern Oregon

allowed winemaker Herb Quady to create a dark red cherry bomb. Cranberries, spicy cherries and leather aromas funnel into flavors of cherry jam and strawberry pie. It’s a bright and rich wine all the way through with assertive tannins that set the table for a T-bone.

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Two Mountain Winery 2004 Syrah Yakima Valley, 360 cases, $22

Outstanding! Matthew Rawn doesn’t seem to rush his wines to the shelves, and the results show. Distinct aromatics signal blueberries, sassafras, alfalfa and leaf tobacco. It’s a bite of blackberries in the mouth with more tobacco, creamy vanilla and restrained tannins. Lingering acidity runs into finish of Red Vines licorice.

Volcano Vineyards 2005 Lakeside Vineyard Syrah Rogue Valley, 194 cases, $32

Outstanding! Top-flight Syrahs from Scott Ratcliff in Bend, Ore., is becoming a tradition. This vineyard-designate near Jacksonville, Ore., is on the precocious side with youthful, lip-smacking sweet brambleberries and balanced oak. A dark midpalate leads to a rich and lingering finish of semi-sweet chocolate that brings you back. The Ratcliffs, who have a background in fine cuisine, suggest pairing this with pulled pork or salty and bitter foods such as greens, olives, lemons, eggplant and asparagus.

Malbec Eleven Winery 2005 Windy Ridge Vineyard Malbec Horse Heaven Hills, 121 cases, $27

Excellent. Matt Albee’s garagiste project on

Bainbridge Island, Wash., is serious, evidenced by the quality of the fruit and his skill. A jazzy red fruit nose includes fresh alfalfa, baking spice and the Hershey’s Milk Chocolate with Almonds bar shows off the 18 months in French and Hungarian oak.

It’s big and juicy on the approach with raspberries, canned plums with heavy syrup, chocolaty tannins and Rainier cherries in the finish.

Gamache Vintners 2005 Malbec Columbia Valley, 170 cases, $28

Recommended. Malbec, one of the five standard red grapes of Bordeaux, is catching on as a singlevariety bottling in Washington as vintners explore different opportunities. These grapes were grown on the Gamache brothers’ vineyard near Basin City, Wash. This young wine is still fairly tightly wound but is beginning to reveal itself. It opens with aromas of blackberries, chocolate, oak and leather, followed by dense flavors of black currants, black pepper, plums and dark chocolate.

It’s a big wine with plenty of length.

Indian Creek Winery 2006 Wood River Vineyards Malbec Snake River Valley, 125 cases, $21

Recommended. Mike McClure has taken over most

of the winemaking decisions at Bill Stowe’s winery, and this is 100% of the variety. It’s amazingly expressive and easy drinking with black fruit, smoky bacon, cooked beans, ginger, cinnamon and pumpkin spice aromas and flavors. Enjoy with meatloaf, stuffed green peppers or elk.

Michael Florentino Cellars 2005 Malbec Columbia Valley, 29 cases, $38

Recommended. This Bordeaux blender continues to

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recent releases in the background. A new winery in Prosser, Wash., sends out a supremely ripe version revolving around notes of blackberry cobbler, plums, cherries, vanilla, tobacco and milk chocolate. In a few years, the tannins should be in perfect step.

Red blends Arcane Cellars 2005 Wheatland Red Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,280 cases, $18

to a finish of bittersweet chocolate. The berrylike acidity and tannin structure should keep this pounding away for several years.

Frenchman’s Gulch

WINE REVIEWS

It leads off with cordial cherries, cedar, pencil shavings, a chip of slate and a pinch of earth.

It’s all chocolate, cherries and tar from the lips to the throat, carried with tremendous balance.

2005 Ketchum Cuvée

Gamache Vintners

Washington, 550 cases, $20

2005 Boulder Red

Outstanding! Sun Valley’s Steve McCarthy shines

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $18

again with this blend of Cab Sauv (52%) from Alder Creek and Matador, Merlot (28%) from Dwelley and Cab Franc from Chandler Reach.

Recommended. This gentle blend leads with Cabernet Franc (50%), followed by Merlot (25%), Malbec (15%) and fleshed out by Syrah (10%). It

Recommended. Legally, it could stand alone

labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), and there’s a significant Rhône regime with Syrah (18%), Mourvèdre (2%) and Cinsault (2%).

Plums, pomegranates, cherry extract and chocolate cake notes gain a footing amid bright acidity and assertive tannins in the finish.

E.B. Foote Winery 2005 Perfect a Trois Columbia Valley, 243 cases, $25

Excellent. Sherrill Miller updated her label, but

she didn’t mess with the success that she’s had with this blend of Cab Sauv (60%), Merlot (30%) and Cab Franc. The fruit from Milbrandt, Graves and Arianses vineyards formed aromatics of black currants, pie cherries, plums, chocolate, black walnuts and cedar.

Blueberries, juicy cherries and pleasing acidity, rather than tannin, dominate the palate.

E.B. Foote Winery Rainy Day Red IV Columbia Valley, 219 cases, $18

Outstanding! Thanks to the Cascade rain shawdow, vineyards such as Milbrandt and Graves grow the grapes to help Puget Sound folks deal with the pain of rain. Sherrill Miller took the Syrah (81%) and Cab (19%) back to her Burien, Wash., winery and out came this very woodsy, bright and sunny wine. It’s not a brambleberry blockbuster akin to many Syrahs, instead there’s ripe cherry and currant density to the sweet approach and sweeping midpalate.

Fielding Hills Winery 2005 RiverBend Red Wahluke Slope, 145 cases, $32

Excellent. This proprietary blend of Cab Sauv (46%), Merlot (42%), Syrah (11%) and Cab Franc (1%) comes from the estate vineyard by the same name. Boysenberry and cherry jam, pomegranate, cedar, chalkboard dust and chocolate only begin to describe the nose. That berry/cherry jam follows through on the bright flavors with welcoming and chocolaty tannins.

Good acidity portends a long life ahead. Or enjoy now with pulled pork or a New York steak.

Forgeron Cellars NV Walldeaux Smithie Red Wine Columbia Valley, 710 cases, $16

Excellent. It’s tough to find a wine made in Walla

Walla at this price, so Marie Eve Gilla deserves a tip of your beret. Sites such as Alder Ridge, Ash Hollow, Boushey, Klipsun and Pepper Bridge contributed Merlot (55%), Cab Sauv (24%), Syrah (11%), Zinfandel (7%) and Cab Franc for a dizzying assortment of descriptors such as strawberries, cherries, vanilla, rose hips, boysenberries, blackberries and marionberries, leading W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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produced aromas of black cherries, pomegranate, toasted oak, earthiness and a bit of citrus, followed by an entry of black currant jam and more pomegranates and a midpalate of sour cherry candy with pleasing acidity.

Icicle Ridge Winery 2005 Romanze Blend Washington, 300 cases, $33

Outstanding! Estate fruit from his father-in-law’s vineyard allows Don Wood to lead with Merlot (50%) on this blend with Lemberger (30%) and Cabernet Franc. Plums, sweetened cherries, spice and fresh-mowed hay are mirrored in mouth of this fruit-forward, Chianti-like drink, along with clove and cinnamon. It’s the great acidity, not the tannins, that grab your attention.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Apogee Walla Walla Valley, 1,747 cases, $50

Excellent. As the story goes, this proprietary blend

was the first wine to emerge out of this famed site. Marty Clubb comes to expect bold tones from these grapes, and the mix of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%), Malbec (7%) and Cab Franc delivers boysenberries, black raspberries and coffee in the aromas and flavors.

Youthful tannins nip a bit, but the chocolate finish tames them, and the berry acidity adds ageability.

L’Ecole No. 41 2005 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Perigee Walla Walla Valley, 1,594 cases, $50

Excellent. Marty Clubb doesn’t discourage the

earthy terroir of this famed vineyard’s oldest blocks in this premium bottling of Cab Sauv (56%), Merlot (36%) and Cab Franc. And the red fruit shines from beginning to end, starting with unripe strawberries, lingonberries and crushed leaf aromas. On the palate is where the earth moves with cranberry sauce and blueberries flavors that show their stuff to the end.

Acidity outworks the tannins, and there’s lots of chocolate in the finish.

Nicholas Cole Cellars 2004 Camille Columbia Valley, 2,100 cases, $48

Excellent. Mike Neuffer builds his wines for the

long haul, but this looks lovely already. An ode of Merlot (63%) to his maternal grandmother, Canoe Ridge, Champoux, Klipsun and the Neuffer estate vineyards bring blackberry, green peppercorns, fresh-picked portabello mushrooms and toasted oak to the senses. The drink is of Oregon blackberries, cherry syrup and complex chocolate notes, and the reduced tannins make this a star with women who love red wine and chocolate.

Nicholas Cole Cellars 2005 GraEagle Red Wing Columbia Valley, 916 cases, $25

Recommended. Red toned and youthful best

describes this Bordeaux blend of Cab Sauv (39%), Merlot (28%), Cab Franc (18%) and Petit Verdot. Black cherries, Sweethearts candy, malted milk chocolate and alfalfa aromas are met by cassis, cranberries and a nice stream of acidity, silenced tannins and more milk chocolate in the finish. Leave this alone for 2-3 years and share with your Valentine.

2004 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve Yakima Valley, 195 cases, $35

Outstanding! One of Washington’s unsung wineries produces a stunning blend from one of the state’s most underrated vineyards. Mike Scott in Spokane backed Merlot (62%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (38%) for a wine that leads with black raspberry, cherry cola, cassis, Douglas fir and Green & Black’s chocolate aromas. Cassis carries into the attack with more raspberries where the balance is dead-on. It’s so smooth, this red wine could pair with a fish fillet.

2005 Cedarosa Columbia Valley, 225 cases, $25

Recommended. It’s not easy to get to the Methow

Valley in the winter, but this wine makes it worth the trip. John Morgan’s blend of Merlot (55%) and Cab Franc turned out an amazing nose of blueberries, dusty cherries, teriyaki, slate, charcoal, chocolate and eucalyptus. There are even more blueberries on the palate, joined by nice underlying tart cherries that provide acid balance to the tugging tannins.

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NV River City Red American, 450 cases, $19

Excellent. This blend of Merlot, Syrah, Malbec

and Zinfandel uses grapes from both sides of the Columbia River, thus the “American” designation. This Hood River, Ore., producer is making many fine wines, and this is no exception. It opens with aromas of black olives, raspberries, lingonberries and dark chocolate, followed by flavors loaded with cherries. The fruit really jumps out of the glass and is backed up with plush tannins.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2005 Donatella Columbia Valley, 85 cases, $26

Excellent. Larry Lindvig leads with Sangiovese

2005 Michele

(37%) from Snipes Canyon in this blend of Cab Sauv (25%) and Merlot (25%) off Elephant Mountain and Petit Verdot (13%) via Gilbert Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. The Italian herbs in the nose and red fruit, bold acid focus of Montmorency and pie cherries show off the Sangio. In the back end, there’s chocolate and black licorice.

Walla Walla Valley, 802 cases, $55

Recommended. Vineyard sourcing from Canoe

Ridge, Champoux, Klipsun and Neuffer explains how this blend of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot got its structure. Power points include a dark and lovely mix of cherries, blackberries, Hershey’s chocolate syrup and wet stone notes. The amazing vintage indicates this massive wine will turn graceful, so the winery is using the release of this bottling to christen its downtown tasting room on April 28 — which is the day Michele Cole turns 16.

Northwest Totem Cellars 2005 Low Man Red Excellent. There’s a new kid on the block in the

growing neighborhood of Woodinville, Wash., and Mike Sharadin shows he’s serious with this Bordeaux blend of Cab Sauv (57%), Merlot (29%) and Cab Franc by storing it in 65% new French oak. Black cherries and black licorice aromas include lemongrass tea, apple mint jelly and a hint of patchouli. Opulent and smooth only begin to describe the palate, which features enormous cherry and brambleberry fruit.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2005 Renaissance Columbia Valley, 92 cases, $28

Outstanding! Blending baron Larry Lindvig has co-leaders on this uniquely Northwest release with Lemberger (37%) and Syrah (37%) sharing the top billing, followed by Petit Verdot (12%) and Sangiovese (12%). Carter Vineyard gets credit for the Lem, and Gilbert kicked in the Syrah and PV. Chukar Cherries and a whiff of fresh herbs continue into a drink that’s far from bashful. The chocolate and cherries drip into the finish.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2005 Tango Red Wine Columbia Valley, 70 cases, $24

Excellent. Larry Lindvig in rural Carnation contin-

quickly went through this blend based on Cabernet Franc (80%) and fleshed out with Cab Sauv (10%) and Syrah. Sweet pie cherries and root beer notes add to the juicy jammy dark fruit structure of this balanced wine.

ues to show himself to be one of the finest boutique red winemakers in Washington. And the sources prove it. He takes small lots of Malbec from Snipes Canyon and Destiny Ridge, combined with Cab Sauv (16%) from Elephant Mountain, and turns them into an array of jammy blackberries and blueberries, black pepper, leaf tobacco and cocoa powder. It’s juicy, smooth and lingering with approachable tannins.

Page Cellars

Pleasant Hill Winery

2004 Limited Edition

2005 Ultimo Grande

Red Mountain, 86 cases, $50

Columbia Valley, 92 cases, $25

Outstanding! The power of Red Mountain and Shaw Vineyards is on display with this blend of

Outstanding! This quarter-split blend by Larry

Northwest Totem Cellars 2005 Qu-ne Columbia Valley, 37 cases, $30

Lost River Winery

Pheasant Valley Winery

Nicholas Cole Cellars

Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $30

Lone Canary Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Cab Franc (47%) and Merlot. Jim Page in Woodinville, Wash., accented the pie cherry, rose hip and cedar aromas with French oak barrel notes of chocolate-covered orange slices, graham cracker, tar and vanilla. The initial sip brings a bite of Chukar Cherry dried Montmorency cherries, then the palate smoothes out with S’mores and boysenberry juice. Judging by the AVA, there’s even more to it down the road.

Excellent. This new Woodinville, Wash., winery

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Lindvig of Cab Sauv and Merlot from Elephant W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Mountain, Malbec (Gilbert) and Tempranillo (Destiny Ridge) is mucho grande with black raspberries, chocolate and cedar aromatics.

Wonderful juicy cherry flavors include ripe blackberry and rosemary notes. The tannins are balanced with licorice sweeping the palate clean in the finish.

Robert Karl Cellars 2004 Inspiration Reserve Red Wine Columbia Valley, 100 cases, $45

Excellent. Spokane’s Dr. Joe Gunselman builds a deeper devotion to the Horse Heaven Hills with his flagship Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (38%), Petit Verdot (20%), Merlot (17%), Malbec (13%) and Cabernet Franc (12%) from Andrews, Gunselman Bench, McKinley Springs and Phinny Hill fruit. New French oak barrels for 26 months show with cocoa powder, vanilla and coffee notes running along spicy cherries and blueberry jam. There’s tremendous balance as the density of the fruit matches that of the tannins.

Saviah Cellars 2005 Big Sky Cuvée Columbia Valley, 469 cases, $35

Outstanding! Richard Funk has been maddeningly consistent with one remarkable wine after another being produced from his Walla Walla, Wash., winery. This Bordeaux-style blend is heavy on Merlot (57%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (24%) with Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot rounding out the wine. He relies on two top vineyards: Stillwater Creek and Champoux, which practically guarantees success. The wine is loaded with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, followed by flavors that reminded us of ripe blackberries warmed on an August Seattle day. It also has notes of blueberries, cherries and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. It’s beautifully balanced — about what we expect from Saviah.

WINE REVIEWS

Tildio Winery

Ferraro Cellar

2005 SBW

2005 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel

Columbia Valley, 124 cases, $22

Columbia Valley, 30 cases, $21

Excellent. The abbreviation stands for

Excellent. This intimate family operation in

Sagemoor (10%), Bacchus (10%) and Weinbau (80%), three venerable vineyards near the Hanford Reach. Their contribution of Cab Sauv and Merlot spent 20 months in French oak at this Manson, Wash., winery, and what emerged is a brightly polished product.

Cherry cola, bacon, tar, earth and hint of blackberries speak volumes in a big and juicy tone. There’s a touch of tart citrus in the finish, and tannins add some traction.

Beaverton, Ore., buys from respected growers on the Columbia River and turns out impressive wines at modest prices. Dick Ferraro made this release from Gunkel vines near Maryhill, Wash.

Fresh strawberry, chocolate and woodsy aromatics turn to dark rich fruit on the palate leading with dense wild cherries and sturdy tannins.

Zefina 2003 Serience Red Horse Heaven Hills, 875 cases, $30

Excellent. The winery president, Ken McCabe, is the sheriff of Seattle’s Rhône Ranger event, and here’s a blend he’d be proud to pour with Syrah (35%), Grenache (30%), Mourvèdre (17%), Counoise (13%) and Cinsault from estate Alder Ridge. There are blackberries, tobacco leaf, roasted coffee and buckwheat honey on the outside with delicious dense blackberry and marionberry flavors on the inside. It’s a bold wine with a solid structure and good length.

Zenas Wines 2005 White Horse Blend Del Rio Vineyards Claret Rogue Valley, 180 cases, $33

Excellent. This family’s roots are dug both into Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley and Washington’s Yakima Valley, but these wines are made in the Willamette Valley town of Carlton from famed Rogue grapes. It’s focused on sweet fruit with huckleberries and cream, bright cherries and bit of sage. A “Right Bank” blend of Cab Franc (60%) and Merlot (40%) is tilted toward acidity rather than tannin, making it a bit one dimensional, but that dimension is mighty nice.

Smasne Cellars

Other reds

2003 Bunk House Red Yakima Valley, 80 cases, $50

Cathedral Ridge Winery

Outstanding! Robert Smasne invested 35 months

2006 Zinfandel

of French oak barreling on this Bordeaux blend that leads — in atypical fashion — with Malbec (48%), followed by Merlot (44%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet oak, blackberry, chocolate and citrus notes set the table for an easy entry of intense blackberry jam and cherry flavors.

Get ready for a booming midpalate and a finish of pie cherries. The structure of tannin and tartness bodes well for the future.

Columbia Valley, 381 cases, $24

Tildio Winery

Recommended. Hillside and Lonnie Wright

Vineyards provided the fruit for Michael Sebastiani’s project in Hood River, Ore., and this is unlike most California Zins because of its broad food applications, tart acidity and comparatively low alcohol (13.6%). Red fruit, red bell peppers and cherry tomatoes dominate the structure. For easy springtime enjoyment, grill up an ol’ fashioned homemade hamburger.

2005 Profundo

Colvin Vineyards

Wahluke Slope, 50 cases, $35

2005 Chelle den Pleasant Cabernet Franc

Outstanding! An assemblage by Manson, Wash.,

Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $24

winemaker Katy Perry ended up with a winning formula from RiverBend and Weinbau of Cab Sauv (35%), Merlot (30%), Malbec (20%), Cab Franc (10%) and Petit Verdot. The great equalizer was 22 months in French oak.

There’s a cheery greeting from cherries, cola and crushed leaf. Silky chocolate and cherry flavors include vanilla bean. Balanced tannins and nice acidity make it quaffable and cellar worthy.

Excellent. Mark Colvin announced on his Web

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

site that 2005 is his historic winery’s “farewell vintage.” Here is one of the two final releases from the Walla Walla trailblazer who put Carménère on the map. A theme of blueberries and cream swirls throughout this vineyard-designate out of Prosser, Wash. It’s hedonistically smooth, delicious and a quaffer that also could be enjoyed with grilled venison and portabello mushrooms.

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recent releases

Michael Florentino Cellars

Two Mountain Winery

Cascadia Winery

2005 Tempranillo

2006 Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 26 cases, $30

2004 Reserve Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley, 110 cases, $30

Outstanding! Success with this sturdy Spanish vari-

Excellent. The Rawn brothers in Zillah, Wash.,

Recommended. Fruit from Ryan Patrick Vineyard’s

ety upon this winery’s inaugural release will garner attention for Prosser vintner Michael Haddox.

Blueberry and raspberry aromas are wrapped around inviting sweet mocha and milk chocolate.

The berries turn into jam in the mouth, met by a smooth balance and lingering berry finish.

don’t always produce a Cab Franc, but they chose wisely to do so this time. A fine fellowship of red-toned fruit — raspberries, strawberries and pie cherries — includes lilac and blueberries aromas. Razzy fruit, blueberries and toasted oak christen the palate. There’s a juiciness and density to the structure that leans away from tannin as you move through it.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Barrel Select Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 488 cases, $16

Excellent. Berries, cherries, nice dark oak and

patchouli notes fill the nose of this Sangiovese.

The flavors are filled with black fruit and dark chocolate with a nice embrace from tannins.

Northwest Totem Cellars 2005 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 50 cases, $30

Outstanding! The Bacchus block at Sagemoor

produced this outpouring that’s high on Dr Pepper and more than 21 other descriptors.

Also amid the aromas are blackberries, cinnamon and cloves. Juicy blackberries, canned plums and delicious piquant acidity with terrific balance are hallmarks of this red.

Pheasant Valley Winery 2006 Chukar Ridge Tempranillo Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $28

Excellent. This Hood River, Ore., winery is producing some delicious wines. Tempranillo, a Spanish grape, still is relatively unknown in the Northwest, especially along the Columbia River. Yet here is a superb example with a really young wine. This opens with yummy aromas of marionberries, ripe plums, black pepper and chocolate. A fairly big entry leads to robust flavors of strawberries, red currants and milk chocolate.

Tildio Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope, 25 cases, $35

Recommended. It is rare to see the price per bot-

tle exceed the case production number, but here’s the equivalent of one barrel. Attributes include rich black cherry, cola, chocolate mint and molasses, which are delivered well.

Zefina 2004 Sangiovese Horse Heaven Hills, 350 cases, $25

Excellent. It’s 100% Sangio from Alder Ridge, and inside rests the food-friendly acidity one would expect from this Italian grape. Inviting raspberry, Rainier cherries and green peppercorn notes lead into dark cherry, plum and blueberry flavors. Smooth tannins and nice acidity make this age-worthy for the next five years.

2003 Zinfandel Columbia Valley, 475 cases, $25

Recommended. Cherry cola, strawberry fruit

leather and soft sweet plums swirl around decent acidity and easy tannins to make this a wine worthy of conversation or a lamb kebab.

White Chardonnay Airfield Estates 2006 Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $20

Recommended. Those who enjoy oaky

Chardonnay will love this. Other features focus on lemon and butterscotch, and its structure leans toward steeliness rather than creaminess.

Arcane Cellars 2006 Wheatland Chardonnay Rogue Valley, 420 cases, $16

Recommended. This Salem, Ore., operation went

south for a rather fascinating expression of Chardonnay with aromas of apples, dandelion leaves and roasting marshmallows. It’s rich and buttery on the palate with baked apples and zesty lemon throughout.

2006 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay

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Homestead Vineyard in Quincy, Wash., contributes a quaffable combination of honeydew melon, apples, peaches and apples. Plenty of acidity and just a breath of French oak make this favorable for seafood.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 396,825 cases, $16

Outstanding! Bob Bertheau’s view from Woodinville is lighter on new oak, but there’s still a fair amount of toast in the nose, along with lemon, saffron, candy corn and apple box aromas. It’s more lemon juice on the structure with nice vanilla and fig jam in the midpalate, where citrusy acidity stretches out into some flint in the finish. Enjoy with linguine in clam sauce.

Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $25

Recommended. Hand-picked estate fruit from the

Zefina

Buty Winery

Climate Controlled Self-Storage rentals with 24-7 access.

Dometic “Silent Cellar” wine cabinets for home storage.

Unique Wine Accessories and Necessities.

Columbia Valley, 260 cases, $15

Horse Heaven Hills, close attention from Ray Einberger and Keith Kenison, and 14 months of weekly hand-stirring inside new oak barrels result in this rich invitation to Hotel California.

Pineapple, citrus blossom, a hint of apricot, mineral and toasted oak aromas blend into flavors of apples and more tropical fruit. Pleasing acidity gives way to a finish of butterscotch candy.

Enjoy with crabcakes or try with popcorn.

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2006 Chardonnay Washington, 330 cases, $18

Recommended. Opulent oak, all of it French, is the

hallmark of this blend crafted in Idaho from Columbia Valley sites Stillwater Creek and Lonesome Springs. Fresh apples and pears are met by butterscotch notes that float on the midpalate. The fascinating finish features lemon zest, a hint of basil and some anise.

Dakota Creek Winery 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $17

Excellent. Ken Peck sourced hand-picked fruit

from Cave B Vineyard — the plot that borders the Gorge at George parking lot. The bottles he sends out from his border town winery in Blaine, Wash., feature long-lasting and lively notes of Granny Smith apples, zesty citrus and gooseberries. There are oak notes, but Peck avoided malolactic fermentation to preserve that crisp structure.

Columbia Valley, 563 cases, $35

Domaine de Chaberton Estate Winery

Excellent. Caleb Foster’s block in this famed vineyard on Radar Hill near Othello, Wash., was planted in 1989, and the fruit is hitting its stride. Mature oak shows amid the pleasing aromas of dusty apple, pear, coconut milk and toast. There’s a bit of oak on the entry, but also a rich delivery of tropical fruit and more toast on the midpalate. Then, it finishes with a wham of citrus. The Fosters predict this wine will reach its zenith during the next two to three years.

2006 Barrel Reserve Chardonnay

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British Columbia, 497 cases, $20 CDN

Outstanding! Elias Phiniotis' program of aging — nine months split between American and new French barrels — produced an exotic array of descriptors. Classic butterscotch aromas are joined by fuzzy apricots, a bit of banana, freshly sliced peach and apple pie. Amazing creaminess awaits, with more apricots and peach with bright acidity popping in the finish. Its quaffable structure continues to call you back.

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recent releases El Mirador Wines 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 425 cases, $19

Excellent. Joe Donnow obviously does know how to craft a delicious, food-friendly Chardonnay using Cave B fruit at his Walla Walla winery.

Pleasing perfuminess begins with citrus notes, jicama, shaved coconut, a whiff of smoke and Thompson seedless aromas. Inside, it’s all about crisp acidity with tart lime and yellow grapefruit, then an undertone of pears and herbs. Enjoy this with fish dressed in a lemon caper sauce.

Frenchman’s Gulch 2006 Chardonnay Washington, 600 cases, $14

Excellent. Steve McCarthy might be tempted to walk the oak plank in Ketchum, Idaho, considering refugees of California have taken over Sun Valley. However, he chose the path of balance with Charles Smasne’s fruit. First are enchanting aromas of lemon meringue pie, peaches, apple blossoms and toasted filberts. Apples, grapefruit and candy corn flavors are carried forth by a big blast of acidity, then finished on the dry side.

WINE REVIEWS

mango. There’s casaba melon as well as notes of buttered popcorn and facial powder. Fruit flavors follow those aromas inside a rich, buttery profile that’s braced by tons of acidity.

Ponzi Vineyards 2005 Reserve Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 328 cases, $30

Recommended. Estate fruit off Aurora Vineyard in

the Chehalem Mountain appellation produced inviting fruit salad and drawn butter aromas.

There’s more butter on the palate with baked apples, pears and nice minerality.

Waterbrook Winery 2006 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,955 cases, $22

Recommended. John Freeman is not reserved in

the use of oak, and there’s plenty of clarified butter and butterscotch notes. Yet, there’s fruit in there, too, with pineapple and citrus on the palate for a crisp rather than creamy finish.

San Juan Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 599 cases, $15

L’Ecole No. 41

Outstanding! This vintage marked the beginning

2006 Chardonnay

for Chris Primus, whose remarkable work has raised the profile of this Puget Sound winery.

Think of sniffing a bowl of fruit salad with oranges, pineapple, pear and mango, but there’s also facial powder and white pepper for complexity. The product of Kestrel View grapes in the Yakima Valley is easy to drink with lemon/lime, Orange Julius and passion fruit flavors. Faithful acidity should endear a glass of this with a platter of scallops served Coquilles St. Jacques.

Columbia Valley, 3,939 cases, $22

Outstanding! If this is your greeting upon arriving home, then the day won’t be all that bad. It’s unmistakable Chardonnay with inviting oak, a hint of lemon and some grapefruit in the aromas. Rich and buttery is the entry with apples and pineapples taking over in the mouth-coating midpalate. There’s a tinge of oak at the beginning, but it’s not overdone.

Riesling

Mount Baker Vineyards 2006 Barrel Select Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 581 cases, $13

Cascadia Winery

Excellent. Now in its 26th year of operation, this

2006 Riesling

winery and vineyard east of Bellingham, Wash., uses grapes from the Yakima Valley for many of its wines. This luscious Chardonnay opens with aromas of minerals, oranges, pineapples and tropical fruits, followed by round, pleasant flavors of minerals and citrus with a note of apple peel on the finish.

Phelps Creek Vineyards 2006 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Gorge, 125 cases, $22

Recommended. Bob Morus moved to Hood River,

Columbia Valley, 240 cases, $16

Excellent. Alan Yanagimachi’s breadth of experi-

ence in the industry spans from a classic education to research to retail to restaurants and ultimately to making wine at his own place in Peshastin, Wash. This Riesling from Milbrandt holdings in Quincy has the classic orchard fruit with pineapple notes and shows sweetness (1.9% residual sugar), but a nice bit of tartness in the finish balances it for food or quick quaffing.

Vin du Lac of Chelan

Ore., nearly 20 years ago to begin growing wine grapes in the Columbia Gorge. Today, the estate vineyards for Phelps Creek include 20 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — with more on the way. Winemaker Rich Cushman crafted this reserve-level Chardonnay, which shows off aromas of white pepper, sweet herbs and a whisper of orange. On the palate are flavors of pineapples, green apples and oak. Bright acidity makes this a good bet with salmon or halibut.

2006 Michaela’s Vineyards Estate Dry Riesling

Plowbuster

2006 Riesling

Chelan County, 200 cases, $20

Recommended. Zippy acidity is the hallmark of this

bright white from Lake Chelan, and there is nice fruit around it. Notes feature Golden Delicious apples, pears, sweet herbs, minerality and sweetened lemon. Its bone-dry finish will pair quite nicely with shrimp in a cream sauce or Fettucine Alfredo.

Waterbrook Winery

2006 Unoaked Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 2,284 cases, $12

Willamette Valley, 600 cases, $18

Outstanding! Exotic and beautiful as an island princess begins to describe this slightly off-dry drink (2.1% residual sugar). Pineapple, papaya, lemon, apricot, apple and vanilla bean form much of the aromas. She’s not shy on the lips

Outstanding! There were no oak trees busted in

the making of this Chardonnay, a second label for Carabella. Stainless steel allows all sorts of tropical fruits to filter out, such as papaya and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases

as delicious pineapple permeates the palate, backed by more orchard fruit, lychee and lemony acidity to balance that sweet disposition.

Pinot Gris

lemons and crisp apples. It’s a vivacious wine with ample acidity.

Ponzi Vineyards 2006 Pinot Gris

ers for decades. It’s slaty from the start with lemon, fig and mineral. A dream pairing would be halibut with a fruit salsa.

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

Willamette Valley, 6,845 cases, $17

Airfield Estates 2006 Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 230 cases, $16

Recommended. Aromas of Juicy Fruit and fragrant

pears turn into inviting flavors of sweet citrus fruit, Golden Delicious apples and a drop of blueberry in the midpalate. There’s a remarkable sendoff of watermelon and tangerine.

Excellent. Only certified sustainable sources —

seven in total — were used in this release that’s one of the Oregon’s largest and most wellreceived. Notes of baked pear, lemon, freshsqueezed orange juice and apple peel follow through to the palate along with sweet pineapple and bracing acidity.

Vin du Lac of Chelan

Capitello Wines

2006 Grisant! Pinot Gris

2006 Pinot Gris

Columbia Valley, 291 cases, $18

Willamette Valley, 600 cases, $18

Excellent. Some nearby fruit from Cherie’s

Recommended. Ray Walsh, a Kiwi now living in

Vineyard in Chelan went in with grapes from Upland Vineyard in Sunnyside for this easy drinking and snappy Pinot Gris. Apples and pears are joined by pleasing notes of lanolin from the extended lees contact, and it is finished with zippy acidity.

the Eugene, Ore., area, makes wines with his son, Desmond. The pair focus on Oregon wines, though they couldn’t resist producing a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This Pinot Gris opens with aromas of pears, tropical fruit and a whiff of oak, followed by flavors of mangos and lemons.

Winter’s Hill Vineyard 2006 Pinot Gris

Eleven Winery

Dundee Hills, 1,306 cases, $18

2006 Pinot Gris

Excellent. The Gladharts dropped 20% of their

Willamette Valley, 111 cases, $17

estate Gris in August of this vintage to produce an aroma and flavor profile that’s focused on orchard fruit of pears and apples in a dry style.

However, there are tropical notes of pineapple and grapefruit-like acidity for more complexity.

Recommended. This Bainbridge Island, Wash.,

winery grabbed Oregon fruit and put it through a neutral barrel regimen. The results center on tropical and citrus notes with some pleasing grassiness, fresh corn and a finish of a twisted lemon.

Gewürztraminer

Firesteed Cellars

Parma Ridge Vineyards

2005 Pinot Gris

2006 Dry Gewürztraminer

Oregon, 7,000 cases, $12

Snake River Valley, 62 cases, $13

Excellent. Yellow grapefruit, a bit of spice, butteri-

Outstanding! Dick Dickstein flew into Idaho on the wings of retirement, but he’s certainly not standing still and excels with his white program.

Aromas of Juicy Fruit gum, lemons, lime, Asian pear and orange zest offer much of the same on the palate. It’s done in a dry Germanic style with mineral and citrus as the focus. The citrus pith will play well alongside a variety of foods.

ness and pineapple aromas carry over into a round, lush and tasty entry of tangerines and oranges. The intriguing midpalate includes a slice of Red Delicious apple that leads into creaminess on the finish, perhaps a sign of aging in both stainless steel and barrel.

King Estate

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, 16,000 cases, $15

Outstanding! There might not be a more fruit-for-

ward and enchanting Sauvignon Blanc in the Northwest than this, thanks to Bob Bertheau.

Expressive tropical aromas include lychee and a basket of citrus, and there’s a hint of fennel, too.

On the palate, it’s full-on tropical, creamy — the sign of 58% barrel fermentation — and dominated by pineapple. Beautiful sugar/acid balance allows it to bridge the gap between cocktails and dinner. Suggested food pairings include chicken, goat cheese, halibut and mussels.

Eleven Winery 2006 Artz Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Red Mountain, 81 cases, $14

Excellent. The Albee family casts the spotlight on

one of Red Mountain’s early settlers with this food-friendly white Bordeaux. Neutral barrels allow aromas of citrus, vanilla and fennel to sift out. The flavor profile focuses on lime and more fennel, and the acidity means it will cut through a cheese plate nicely. Other possibilities include chicken with lemon and capers or a Mexican pollo dish.

L’Ecole No. 41 2006 Semillon Columbia Valley, 4,447 cases, $16

Recommended. No one takes their Semillon program

as serious as Marty Clubb, and this is a sweeping sample of nine vineyards contributing to this blend with Sauv Blanc (14%), leading with Rosebud (Wahluke Slope) and Klipsun (Red Mountain).

Some used French oak imparts a bit of butter throughout, but the profile is centered on pears, pineapple and honeydew melon with a pinch of basil and white pepper adding to the complexity.

L’Ecole No. 41 2006 Fries Vineyard Semillon Wahluke Slope, 356 cases, $20

2006 Domaine Pinot Gris

Phelps Creek Vineyards

Excellent. Looking for an alternative to

Oregon, 5,144 cases, $25

2006 Oak Ridge Vineyard Gewürztraminer

Outstanding! It’s 100% organic, and it’s all good.

Columbia Gorge, 152 cases, $16

Interestingly, harvest for this fruit ended Oct. 11, which is the date they began harvest in 2005.

Orange Creamsicle aromas are joined by freshcut pineapple, Fuji apple, facial powder and mineral notes. Delicious big citrus and tropical notes load up in the mouth with acidity creating a great length. Consider serving this alongside cod with a white cream sauce.

Outstanding! On the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge appellation, Celilo Vineyard tends to get much of the ink. But we’re also seeing a number of wineries producing singlevineyard bottlings from Oak Ridge Vineyard, especially for its yummy Gewürztraminer. This wine opens with aromas of minerals, apples, oranges, cardamom, apricots and honeysuckle, followed by bright, impressive flavors of rosewater, oranges, limes and sweet lemons. It has all the acidity one could hope for in this variety, giving it great balance to go with roasted turkey, grilled chicken or pasta tossed with olive oil.

Chardonnay? The little old schoolhouse produces one from Doug Fries’ 500-acre site.

Notes of rich tropical fruit run throughout with balanced acidity, pleasing length and a beguiling hint of clove cigarette in the finish.

Mount Baker Vineyards 2006 Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 468 cases, $13

Outstanding! Pinot Gris tends to be an Oregon thing, with more than 300,000 cases being produced. But Washington and British Columbia are finding good locations to grow the Alsatian grape, and the somewhat cooler Yakima Valley is one of them. This opens with gorgeous aromas of jasmine, oranges, pineapples and stone fruit, followed by round, rich flavors of oranges,

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Smasne Cellars 2006 Smasne Vineyard Estate Dry Gewürztraminer Yakima Valley, 124 cases, $22

Recommended. The family name is new on the

label, but it’s been behind the scenes as grow-

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L’Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Semillon Walla Walla Valley, 448 cases, $20

Recommended. Lemonhead candy, toasty oak

from French barrels, some fresh-baked bread and a wealth of acidity are the hallmarks of this white Bordeaux style wine, the only one grown at this famed 165-acre site.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Lehm Michaela’s Vineyard Estate Sauvignon Blanc Chelan County, 100 cases, $20

Recommended. Larry Lemhbecker’s initial release of this variety off the estate site begins with alluring aromas of Honeycrisp apples, rose water, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases lychee and a hint of Muscat. Inside are intriguing flavors of more lychee and apple with the peel, pears and grapefruit pith splashed about by bright acidity. Enjoy with a smoked kielbasa.

Viognier Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2006 Viognier Washington, 470 cases, $18

Excellent. The same vineyards and similar per-

centages are used in this Idaho winery’s top Viognier, however this bottling is 100% barrel fermented. That explains aromas of caramel corn, which is joined by pleasing pineapple, orange Creamsicle and lemon pepper notes.

It’s much more tropical in the mouth with a lusciousness, follwed by plenty of bright acidity.

You keep thinking the wine will bitter out in the finish, but it doesn’t.

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2006 L’Artiste Viognier Washington, 124 cases, $24

Excellent. Warren Schutz faces a little extra pres-

sure on this version of unoaked Viognier because the melding of Milbrandt, McKinley Springs, Stillwater Creek and Elephant Mountain sources is a tribute to the boss’ artistic mother. Lemon creme, lime and orchard fruit aromas blend into explosive fruit flavors of mango, starfruit and a banana/orange smoothie. The terrific acidity underneath carries that fruit all the way through.

C.R Sandidge Wines 2006 Viognier Columbia Valley, 233 cases, $28

Recommended. Ray Sandidge, who helped put

Kestrel on the map, knows his way around his new full-time home in the Wenatchee Valley.

His use of Antoine Creek Vineyard near Lake Chelan shows aromas of peaches, Circus Peanuts candy, alyssum, a wisp of toast and a hint of butter. Apricots and butterscotch flavors get a lift from tangerine citrus. Suggested fare includes scallops or chicken Alfredo.

Mount Baker Vineyards

WINE REVIEWS

a plate of pasta tossed with grilled vegetables.

fish, goat cheese or creamy lemon chicken.

White blends

Rosé

Balsamroot Winery

C.R. Sandidge Wines

2006 Edelzwicker

2006 Great Gams Pinot Noir Rosé

Columbia Valley, 148 cases, $15

Columbia Valley, 255 cases, $15

Recommended. This sweeter Alsatian-style blend

Outstanding! Few attempt to deal with Pinot Noir in Washington, but Ray Sandidge and Antoine Creek Vineyard grower Ed Haskell appear to get along well. Strawberry, Rainier cherries, peach and light cherry cola aromas find more of the same inside, only with a drop of residual sugar (0.8%). There’s great acidity to back it up, then strawberry and vanilla close the deal.

Enjoy with picnic fare, but there’s such great balance, you don’t need to serve this cold.

from Manson, Wash., and Antoine Creek Vineyard shows endearing qualities of both varieties with the orchard fruit from Riesling (60%) and the sweetened grapefruit of Gewürztraminer (40%). It’s also reminiscent of original Gatorade with its quenching and quaffable qualities.

Buty Winery 2006 Semillon Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 553 cases, $25

Le Vieux Pin

Recommended. The Semillon (67%) comes from

2007 Vaila Pinot Noir Rosé

one of the oldest sites in the state — Rosebud on the Wahluke Slope — and the Sauvignon Blanc is off Spring Creek Vineyard in the east end of the Yakima Valley. The Sauv Blanc aromatics standout with dusty gooseberry and starfruit, along with light toast and pear. More orchard fruit comes out on the palate with apples and peach, joined by ample acidity.

Drink this on its own, but suggested pairings include mushroom-filled ravioli or traditional Thanksgiving fare.

Excellent. Organic grapes — cropped at 3 1/2 tons per acre — and free-run juice go into this bottling named after the vineyard manager's daughter. Aromas include peaches, apricots, rose petals and a pinch of herbs. More peaches and apricots are found in the slightly off-dry flavors (1.3% residual sugar), finished by some strawberries. A delightful pairing would be with some fragrant cheeses and a plate of sausages.

Okanagan Valley, 160 cases, $25 CDN

Dessert wine

Waterbrook Winery 2006 Melange Blanc Columbia Valley, 2,988 cases, $15

Capitello Wines

Excellent. Riesling (40%) leads the mix of Gewürz

2006 Dolcino

(20%), Chardonnay (10%), Pinot Gris (10%), Sauvignon Blanc (10%) and Viognier, and the sites include Waterbrook and Willard. Effusive aromatics include peaches, nectarines, orange blossoms, cotton candy and vanilla. The sweetness of the peaches and nectarines on the palate belies its residual sugar (1.9%), and it’s quite quaffable, finishing with an intriguing savory tinge.

Willamette Valley, 240 cases, $20

Other whites Glenterra Vineyards 2006 Pinot Blanc

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Ray Walsh created a faux ice wine with Gewürztraminer by freezing then pressing perfectly ripened grapes.

Known as a “cryogenic” wine, this method is very successful in regions that don’t normally get cold enough to make a true ice wine. This is a gorgeous dessert drink with aromas of baked apples, apricots dripping with honey, cloves and lychee, followed by luscious flavors of poached pears, honey, apricots and jasmine. It’s a mouth-coating wine with a memorable finish.

2005 Reserve Viognier

Vancouver Island, 75 cases, $22 CDN

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $20

Excellent. A fair amount of oak and a hint of

2006 Chenin Blanc Ice Wine

Excellent. Not that many decades ago, Viognier

yeast get quickly pushed aside by aromas of pears, lemons, apples, dried pineapple and nettles. On the palate, winemaker John Kelly allows the clarity of fruit and beautiful crisp tart acidity to swirl everywhere with tart pears, slightly unripe pineapple and lemony citrus.

was on the verge of extinction. Very few acres remained in the Northern Rhône appellation of Condrieu. But the white grape has made a resurgence, both in France and the New World, especially in Washington where it is the No. 6 white grape with more than 1,100 tons crushed per year. This superb example from the Yakima Valley exhibits aromas of apricots, apples, oranges and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of sweet oranges and vanilla. A nice roundness on the midpalate gives this a luscious mouth feel that leads to a lengthy finish.

Troon Vineyard 2006 Viognier Applegate Valley, 98 cases, $22

Recommended. An alluring floral nose with Juicy Fruit and citrus behind it dives into flavors of tree-ripened pears and grapefruity acidity.

Possible food applications include alder-planked W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Mount Baker Vineyards 2006 Roussanne Yakima Valley, 106 cases, $20

Recommended. As Northwest winemakers continue to explore and work with Rhône grape varieties, the wines keep getting better and better.

Roussanne, a white grape grown predominently in the Southern Rhône Valley, is beginning to show up more and more in Washington, where the climate is not dissimilar. This version shows off aromas of freshly mown hay, minerals, apples and butterscotch, followed by flavors of oranges and Bartlett pears. Modest acidity gives this a gentle mouth feel and should allow it to pair with

Horse Heaven Hills, 725 cases, $45

Outstanding! Bob Bertheau calls this harvest

“spooky” because of its timing with Halloween, and it’s scary how skilled he’s become at making these stickies. This is the winery’s first go at ice wine using Chenin Blanc, and what an example.

Wonderful orchard fruit aromas lead with apricots and clover honey. The rich and honeyed palate (26.9% residual sugar) coats the mouth, but bright lemon/lime acidity carries the fruit.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling Columbia Valley, 375 cases, $40

Outstanding! This may rank as the best vintage of

dessert wines in Ste. Michelle’s history.

Sometimes, late harvest offerings come up shy in sweetness or acidity, but not this botrytisaffected batch. Tones of Mandarin orange, lychee, butterscotch, clover, lime and white hard candy also include some steeliness and minerali-

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recent releases

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $10 and under.

Avery Lane

Magnificent Wine Co.

fruit and more candy corn in the finish.

2006 Riesling

2006 Fish House Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, $10

Pavin & Riley

Columbia Valley, 3,500 cases, $8

Recommended. The Northwest’s renewed love

Outstanding! Unlike the House Wine, this Fish

affair with this grape is embraced at this Seattle-based facility. The nose includes sweet lemon, spicy grapefruit, rose water, facial powder, oranges and pineapple upsidedown cake. Juicy Fruit flavors and candy corn are joined by lychee, more rose water, ample acidity and a bit of citrus pith bitterness.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2005 Riesling Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, $10

House is all honest-to-goodness Chardonnay.

And the quality of the wine is no fish story.

Huge tropical notes include canned papaya and orange zest with some hints of pear and floral. It’s the same tropical and citrus on the attack with lively acidity and pleasing grapefruit length in the finish. Enjoy with halibut paired with salsa, Asian dishes or California roll.

Outstanding! The now-departed Steven Sealock

left quite a legacy at Precept Brands, including this delicious and affordable drink heavily stocked with sweet ripe orchard fruit. Lemon twist, stone, mineral, marshmallow and dusty apple aromas reach into a big mouthful of Jonagold apples, fresh pineapples, beautiful acidity and a bite of crisp pear in the finish.

Magnificent Wine Co.

2006 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 25,000 case, $10

Washington Hills Winery

2006 House Wine White Wine

2006 Late Harvest Riesling

Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, $10

Washington State, 8,000 cases, $8

Excellent. Rare it is to see a Chateau Ste.

Excellent. There’s more than just marketing and

Outstanding! It’s more off-dry rather than dessert,

Michelle wine priced at this level, so now is the time to bring this white Bordeaux style wine to the table if you haven’t before. Exotic aromas and flavors of lychee, grapefruit, apples, lemon curd, sweet grass and Tropical Bar cookies are spotlighted by zippy acidity.

Serve this with Halibut Piccata.

packaging in this release by K Vintners’ Charles Smith, a hair-raising blend of Chardonnay (79%), Muscat Canelli (6%), Pinot Grigio (5%), Gewürztraminer (5%) and Riesling. Inviting tropical fruit aromas are joined by candy corn and fresh baked bread. A tilt pours in nice orchard fruit and pineapple flavors with grape-

and it’s eminently delicious. Aromas are reminiscent of a fresh stick of Juicy Fruit gum, lemonade, rose water, cotton candy and a scrape of slate. Its sweet entry is more of the same, joined by pears, apples and citrusy acidity. There’s low alcohol and pleasing sweetness with 5% residual sugar.

ty inherent in the grape. Mouthwatering acidity cuts through the honey (22%) and viscous profile. Enjoy this with the cheese course.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Late Harvest Chenin Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, 1,020 cases, $25

Outstanding! A bit of botrytis added extra honey

and spice to this second dessert bottling by Bob Bertheau. Oranges, grapefruit, lemons and apricots add to the aromatics. It’s more grapefruit and oranges on the tongue, showcasing a tremendous balance of fruit and sugar (17.8%).

The lip-smacking and mouthwatering finish leaves you asking for more.

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 530 cases, $75

Outstanding! The folks in British Columbia almost

own the Northwest monopoly on nectar such as this — aside from CSM’s rare Single Berry Select ($200+). Harvest for this project with Ernst Loosen began Oct. 30 and resulted in something amazing, starting with a whisper of apricots, lime, honey and nuttiness. A round and sweet entry glides down with flavors of orange blossom honey, more apricots, more lime citrus for balance (26% residual sugar) and even a hint of botrytis spice.

King Estate 2006 Signature Collection Vin Glacé Pinot Gris Oregon, 2,693 cases, $18

Excellent. Organic and estate grapes were picked

by Oct. 11, then frozen to produce this delicious cryo-“ice wine.” Baked apple pie notes join hints of clover honey and orange marmalade. The rich, honeyed viscosity can be mistaken for some of Mother Nature’s ice wines, but the acidity falls

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just a bit behind the residual sugar (18.6%).

on alcohol point.

Sparkling

Michael Florentino Cellars 2005 Quinta De La Dolce Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $25

Domaine Ste. Michelle

Recommended. The Vintners Village in Prosser,

2001 Luxe

Wash., is home to a growing number of Portstyle producers. This offering of Touriga, Tinta Cao, Souzao and Tinta Madeira features a nose including Dr Pepper and Whoppers Malted Milk Balls. The perceived sweetness doesn’t disappoint with cherry fruit leather and more of the candy born during the Depression.

Mount Baker Vineyards 2004 Late Harvest Viognier

Columbia Valley, 1,640 cases, $23

Recommended. Rick Casqueiro’s crew harvested

this Chardonnay off Heily Vineyards days before 9/11. It received French oak fermentation, then spent 11 months on the lees. Four months later, it begins a five-year sabbatical, then gets its dosage. Three months later, it’s on the market. Expect notes of ambrosia salad, citrus, nice crispness and supple bubbles.

Yakima Valley, 188 cases, $21

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery

Excellent. We don’t see many dessert wines made

2004 Steller’s Jay Brut

with this Northern Rhône grape, but when we do, they tend to be superb. This is no exception. It opens with aromas of rhubarb and strawberry pie with sweet spices, honey and even a bit of roasted hazelnuts. On the palate, it’s loaded with sweet flavors of blood oranges and creamy vanilla. A delicious wine with 13% residual sugar.

Troon Vineyard 2005 Insomnia Reserve Port Applegate Valley, $29, 105 cases

Outstanding! One should sit down and shut down for a moment just to have fun evaluating the aromatics. The first pass of this Tempranillo/Dolcetto blend is remarkable because there is no hint of the oxidation associated with many Port-style wines. Instead, there’s a freshness with blackberries, cedar and Kookaburra Black Licorice. Blockbuster flavors return more blackberries, a bite of chewing tobacco, a gift of chocolate tannins and a spot-

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Okanagan Valley, 5,500 cases, $27 CDN

Outstanding! What is arguably the most popular sparkler in the province doesn't disappoint. The annual assemblage of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (30%) and Pinot Blanc yields aromas of Gala apples, lemon peel, ginger, quince, yeast and bread crust. Compact bubbles focus the bright orchard and citrus fruit on the round palate. Pleasing cake notes appear in the finish.

Nongrape Eaton Hill Winery NV Lot 6 Sun Glow Yakima Valley, 179 cases, $16

Recommended. This unique proprietary blend uses nectarines from Rogers’ Orchard and Riesling from McGuire’s Vineyard to produce a wine that’s nicely influenced by the cross of peach. It’s tasty and smooth on the palate with orchard fruit, followed by pleasing lemon Popsicle in the finish.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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vintage musings

BY BOB WOEHLER

Hogue’s wines, concept built to last

H

ogue Cellars is celebrating 25 years as an icon winery for Prosser, Wash., with the constant hallmark of making top wines at great prices.

It seems to matter little who has made the wines over the years because each new set of winemakers is just as dedicated as the ones they replaced.

Today’s winemaking crew includes Co Dinn, director of winemaking, and winemakers Jordan Ferrier (red program) and Jim Mills (white program). They are following in the footsteps of such award-winning vintners as David Forsythe and Rob Griffin.

And let’s not forget Hogue Cellars is the largest premium winery in the Pacific Northwest that’s not affilliated with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

With a production this year expected to reach 600,000 cases, Hogue will be behind only Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle in size.

It’s been quite a legacy for the pioneer Prosser family of Wayne and Shyla Hogue and their two sons, Gary and Mike.

It was Gary and Mike who developed the winery on the outskirts of Prosser along the Yakima River and directed it through the first 20 years.

Today, Constellations Brands — the world’s largest wine company — owns Hogue Cellars and has shown the good sense to let Hogue be Hogue, complete with all the great varieties the winery introduced during the years.

Mike is on to other endeavors with a new winery called Mercer Estates, which features Forsythe as the winemaker and the operation just down the street from his old haunt.

Gary is Hogue Cellars’ ambassador for Constellation and remains active in sales and brand promotions.

Even today, Hogue is pioneering, turning out the bulk of its wines under screwcaps and showing off four styles of wines — starting with the Hogue label that’s ready to drink now.

Then there’s the Genesis label, an upscale list of classic varieties. The reserve wines have limited production tailored for ultra-premium tastes.

And finally, something I don’t think any other winery is touting on its label, there’s the Terroir line. These wines allow the winemakers to showcase a variety from a particular appellation.

The Wine Press Northwest crew recently got to taste with Hogue’s winemakers and even got to dip into a few older vintages.

It has a little bit of the brickiness one might expect, it is showing some dried fruit and cherries. Yet there’s brilliant fruit left, along with herbal notes including mint. Very elegant.

1996 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley:

Earth and spice aromas with dark licorice, dry cherry and chocolate components. This came from a vintage not fondly remembered in Washington because of a bad winter freeze that wiped out about half the crop. This wine still is showing well 14 years later and is a real treasure.

1998 Vineyard Selection Syrah, Columbia Valley: Still a juicy berry delight, probably because of the 23 percent Lemberger that was blended in. Syrahs don’t always tend to age well, but this still has plenty of life left.

Let’s move on to some current releases from Hogue: 2005 Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $22: Reserved and elegant with firm oak under pinnings, yet balanced with rich pears and apple flavors.

2005 Terroir Viognier, Horse Heaven Hills, $22: Terroir is to show off a particular region, and this is a yummy Creamsicle, fresh as a daisy and crisp as a spring day.

2006 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9: Great balance at 1.8 residual sugar with 14 percent Gewürztraminer that gives it plenty of peachy and citrus character.

2006 Late Harvest White Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9: Always a favorite at Hogue. Great for a summer day with 4.5 percent residual sugar and the acidity to balance the tangerine and apricot aromas and flavors.

2004 Genesis Merlot, Columbia Valley, $17: Hogue always has made classic Merlot, and this 2006 selection grabs your attention with tons of smooth berries and fruit. It provides a level of complexity beyond the price and should pair well with grilled meats.

2006 Terroir Syrah, Columbia Valley, $22: Think rich chocolate cake with a layer of raspberries. A most pleasing drink. This is still mighty young, so I think it will get even better with another year or two in the cellar.

2004 Andrews Vineyard Terroir Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $22:

Spicy oak and huckleberries are the hallmark of this Malbec, which has a strong backbone and bold, rich flavors. A pleasing yet complex wine.

2004 Andrews Vineyard Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $22: Lively, full and complex starting with blackberry

aromas and finishing with boysenberries and spices.

2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $30: A most affordable reserve red, smooth with huge flavors with coffee and vanilla aromas and cocoa and dark berry and strawberry flavors.

1993 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley:

This preceded one of Washington’s more famous vintages, and 1993s tend to be overlooked, but this is aging gracefully.

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BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.

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