Wine Press Northwest Spring 2009 by Wine Press Northwest

01 Cover.qxd

U.S. $5

2/27/09

4:42 PM

Canada $6 0 2>

74470 94059

Page 1

02 Esquin ad

2/27/09

3:08 PM

Page 2

03 TCVCB ad

2/27/09

3:10 PM

Page 3

04 Contents.qxd

3/4/09

3:52 PM

Page 2

WINE PRESS

Vol. 12, No. 1

N O R T H W E S T

Spring 2009 DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

28 Northwest Winery of the Year Wild Goose Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, B.C., takes this year’s top honour.

32 Regional Wineries of the Year Find out which wineries have been named Wineries of the Year and Wineries to Watch for Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho.

44 Lower price points equal higher sales While the economic downturn hits the bottom lines of some wineries, others may benefit.

52 Stairway to storage One company’s solution to wine storage will have your collection spiraling into control.

60 Undiscovered Bordeaux Cabernet Francs, Carménères, Malbec and Petit Verdots from the Northwest are put to the test in our blind tasting.

COVER STORY Wild Goose Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, B.C., wins our Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year award. Story begins on page 28. Photo by Jackie Johnston

8 Wine Nose Drinking for a living

12 A Distant Perspective Life beyond Cabernet Sauvignon

14 Market Grapevine Serenity of spring

16 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Winemaking expands north

18 Urban Sips Secret love life of wine

20 23 24 80 98

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings For 40 years, Ponzi stays on top

05 Masthead

3/2/09

11:02 AM

Page 5

WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Jay Drysdale, Julianna Hayes, Kendall Mix, Jessica Munnell, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Leah Jorgensen, Ingrid Stegemoeller Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Shelley Ransier, 509-582-1570 E-mail: sransier@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2009 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

06 What's online

3/1/09

6:48 PM

W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

Page 6

winepressnw.com

We’re also on

NORTHWEST WINECAST

“

VOICES

”

from The Wine Knows forum community.winepressnw.com Nonrefundable tasting fees are becoming more and more common and I see them becoming more of the norm rather than the exception. Let me be forward and honest. I've worked in a winery's tasting room and deterring the “drink for free” crowd is only part of the reason for the charge. Providing the public a chance to taste entails a lot more then just the wine — winetonic (Feb. 23) I've tasted Syrah (Shiraz) from most of the "noteable" areas and found that Washington has grapes that compare to any and has winemakers that know what to do with that fruit when they get it. — wineO (Jan. 24)

Each Tuesday, catch the Northwest Winecast, an online video show. Recent episodes have gone to Wenatchee, Wash.; Dundee, Ore.; Gig Harbor, Wash.; Moscow, Idaho; and Richland, Wash.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Wine Club

Two Bottles of select

Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our

“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.

503-620-6691 800-288-3008

www.pnwc.com 6

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

07 South Ridge ad

2/27/09

3:22 PM

Page 7

08 Wine Nose

3/2/09

COLUMN

12:02 PM

Page 8

the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

Will work for wine

t is said that desperate times call for desperate measures. But the current economic crisis has spurred one Washington wine lover to get creative. In fact, if you have a bottle of wine, he’ll drink it for you — for a price. Dan McCool is a photographer by trade. He owns Cool Breeze Photography in Richland, a city in the heart of Washington wine country. His business is mostly family and high school portraits, and business is a bit slow at times. “Generally speaking, I have a lot of free time,” said the 57-year-old, who moved to the Yakima Valley town of Prosser in 1994 before moving farther down the valley a decade later. One day recently, he was cruising the Internet and came across a guy who wears T-shirts for a living. He blogs about the shirt (and the company advertising on his chest), shoots video and cruises around town. McCool thought that was innovative and decided to try it with his own wine country twist: He will drink your wine and tell everyone on the Internet about it. And you’ll pay him to do it. That’s right, and you’ll also buy the wine. So McCool came up with a Web site, IDrinkYourWine.com, and he’s launching the business April 1. Here’s how it works: Whoever signs up for April 1 will get their wine featured that day for $1. April 2 will cost $2 and so on. Dec. 31 will cost $275. If McCool sells every day in 2009 — something he fully expects to do — he’ll bring in more than $40,000. If he sells every day in 2010, he’ll make a McCool $68,000. And he’s guaranteed of drinking a bottle of wine every day — without having to pay for it. He realizes he will have expenses associated with it, and he’s willing to lose a bit in the beginning. He’ll travel within a 50-mile radius of the Tri-Cities before adding a gas surcharge. And he already has some summer wine touring trips planned, so he might just be in your area already. So, if you sign up for it, what do you get? McCool will put together a video in which he will talk about the wine, talk about your company and have some fun. He’ll encourage someone from the company to sit in on the video, though that’s not required. The video will run around three to five minutes and will appear on his site, YouTube, Facebook, Twitter and a few other social networking systems. He’ll optimize everything with tags to make sure that video can be found easily through search engines, meaning the value of your video will last well beyond your “day.” “We’re going to have fun with this,” McCool said. “We’ll try some off-the-wall stuff. If someone wants me to spoof Gary Vaynerchuk (Wine Library TV) and be over the top, I’ll do it. It’s going to depend on the client.” McCool also will take photos and post them on Flickr, then stream them onto his site. 8

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

McCool figures most of his clients will be wineries, though he isn’t ruling out other companies or individuals who might want to participate. He realizes this idea is a bit of a doubleedged sword. The early adopters get in cheap but won’t have a large audience. Those who come in later will have to pay more but will get more eyeballs. One way he plans to reward the early adopters is to give them first crack at whatever day they want in 2010, when the audience presumably will be much bigger. He already has inquiries from a few wineries, thanks in part to his contacts from working behind the tasting bar at Hogue Cellars in the ’90s. “This is probably the most outlandish thing I’ve done,” McCool said. “And I’m pretty adventurous. Everybody is pressed for marketing dollars these days, so this is a way to get the message out there in the social marketing network. Actually, it’s a pretty good deal for everybody concerned.” It sounded like it to me, and I have a reputation for being an early adopter. I also figured this was way cheaper than that Apple Newton I paid $1,000 for back in the early ’90s. I told McCool I’d be his first customer, even though I’m not a winery, and I thought about which day to choose. I didn’t want to look like a complete cheapskate by choosing April 1, nor did I want to shell out big bucks for Labor Day. In a moment of inspiration, I went with April 15, Tax Day. I figured we could have fun with that as a theme, and it would cost me just $15 — about what people are willing to pay for a bottle of wine these days. I’m not sure what wine or wines I’ll bring on the show, but McCool said I need to bring something. He’s in it for the wine. ••• You might notice that with this issue — the start of our 11th year of publication — we are raising the cover price of Wine Press Northwest to $5. We’ve been at $3 since our first issue in 1998, which was 44 pages. Since then, we’ve grown tremendously. We’ve been as high as 116 pages, and this issue is 100 pages (the Spring issue is always the smallest of the year). Throughout the years, our cost of doing business has increased: printing, photography, freelance writing, postage, etc. We’ve also worked hard to improve the product you receive by using a heavier, glossier cover and delivering the magazine to subscribers in shrinkwrap to protect it. For most, the price increase won’t make much difference because $5 is still less expensive than most magazines you’ll find. For the rest, I hope you’ll understand. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

09 Maryhill

2/27/09

3:24 PM

Page 9

10 Letters

3/2/09

12:02 PM

Page 10

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

New World, Old World. Apples, oranges Considering how opinionated wine lovers tend to be, we actually receive very few letters to the editor. So I was delighted that my column in the Winter issue, “Kiss French, drink Northwest,” elicited a strong response in print and online. Basically, I was politely told I know very little about French wine and should stick to the Northwest — something I’m happy to do. — Andy Perdue, editor Dear Editor: Your article “Kiss French, drink Northwest” just illustrates to me the frustration I get owning a wine shop: (i) the differences between a European palate (I’m English) and a typical palate which grew up on California Cabernet and Zinfandel; (ii) comparing the same vintage from Europe and the West Coast often is apples and oranges; (iii) wine with and without food. First of all, I’ll admit I have not tasted either of the wines you tasted. While not a great fan of Parker, I think he understands Bordeaux. His anticipated maturity for the 2004 Petrus is 2017-2035 whereas for the Northstar it was 20072019. I have only tasted Petrus on two occasions, and the 1966 drunk in 1991 was sublime. However, I’m sure Northstar will always be a better-value wine (only the superrich can justify the current prices of Classified Bordeaux and wines such as Petrus). I know most people want instant satiety, but to me too many West Coast wines are dreadful with food. I love to cook, and often do not know what to do with the over-ripe, high-alcohol (and over-priced) wines coming out of places like Walla Walla and California. Also, too many Oregon Pinot Noirs are beginning to taste like Syrah! What happened to the “pre-PC” days of Pinot Noir being an ethereal, feminine grape? David Lett’s 1983 and 1985 reserves (drunk this century) are two of the greatest non-Burgundian Pinot Noirs I’ve ever tasted. Sorry for this long rant, but I know at Friday tastings in my shop where we just serve baguettes and cheese, it is the fruit-intense wines that show well. When I first owned the shop, I’d want to show the different styles a grape could get from around the world. I quickly learned that there was no point pouring an elegant, food-friendly wine against most West Coast wines. Despite the above, I think there are many fantastic wines being made in the Northwest — I just try and avoid the high-alcohol, over-ripe, monsters. I love to find new, small 10

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

producers such as Memaloose out of Lyle and Adamant Cellars out of Walla Walla. I saw in the Platinum Tasting the Cascade Cliffs Barbera got a great review. I’ve always loved this wine since first tasting the 1997 at Southpark restaurant in Portland. It was $21 then in the restaurant! Today, I can find much better value from Piemonte. I love your magazine, so please keep up the good work! However I’m frustrated that in Oregon I cannot get most of the B.C. wines you review. We had a great vacation in the Okanagan Valley in 2007. Cheers. Mick and Pauline Beard, proprietors Cornell Wine Company Portland

Dear Editor: I started your article from the latest magazine with great anticipation, since I think Washington Merlot is some of the best in the world and have continued to collect and drink even after the Sideways phenomenon. However, I was a bit disappointed by the tone of the article and your lack of knowledge of French wine and French vintages. So I decided to write, since I never get better unless I get coaching on how to improve. Please take this letter in that spirit of helpful criticism. First, Petrus is not “the most expensive red wine in the world,” it is not even the most expensive Pomerol. Chateau Le Pin always releases at a higher price than Petrus. Second, 2004 Petrus is not the “world’s greatest Merlot.” It only received 93 points from both Parker and Suckling. You started to get close to their thoughts with the conjecture at the end of the article, but then I started to wonder why you hadn’t done this research yourself? There are some truly great vintages in Pomerol, such as 1998 and 2005, but 2004 at best was an average to slightly better than average vintage in Bordeaux. As I thought further, I decided the biggest disappointment was your apparent lack of knowledge of wines from the “Old World.” I have no problems with a “New World” palate, or a preference for those wines, but how do you know that without a knowledge of wines from France, Italy, Germany, and Spain? How do you know if a Pinot is “Burgundian” in style without knowing the wines of Burgundy, for example? Thanks, as always, for taking the leadership in showcasing wines from our part of the world, which truly are great. And thanks for the entertainment provided by your magazine and Web site! Cheers. Freelon Hunter Kent, Wash. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

11 Idaho ad

3/2/09

12:45 PM

Page 11

12 Berger column

3/2/09

COLUMN

12:02 PM

Page 12

a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Life beyond Cabernet Sauvignon

friend got a bottle of the Maryhill Winery 2005 Malbec recently, and learned that the wine had earned a Platinum medal at the annual taste-off we do at Wine Press Northwest. But on tasting it, what surprised her, in addition to that she loved the wine, was that it had gotten few other accolades. “Oh my gosh, this was a great wine!” she wrote in her email to me. “Why haven’t I heard anything about it?” Many reasons. First, because it’s Malbec. And Malbec is simply not an “in” wine. Second, it’s from Washington, which isn’t Napa and never will be in the minds of many who think Napa can do no wrong — which implies others can do little right. And mainly she hadn’t heard of the wine because it’s from a grape variety that usually is made a lot closer to the best way for it to be made — as a reflection of its soil. And as such it is not flashy, succulent, dramatic, etc. It simply tastes good. Even the winery’s own tasting notes on the wine aren’t particularly exciting or filled with hyperbole: “Savory aromas embrace the senses — licorice, caramel, soft spicy cherry tinged with herbaceous marjoram hint at a palate redolent of deep plum, cassis, blackberry and warm baking spices culminating in a tarry, toasty, toffee finish.” Which is why the “other” Bordeaux varieties can have such fascination to them. Of particular note, I love Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot when they are left to be the wines their grapes best can reflect. They rarely attempt to overachieve and can be as rewarding as the top Cabernet Sauvignons when they are not pushed beyond the scope of the envelope. One of the main reasons for the other Bordeaux grapes being fascinating is that winemakers do not have any pressure on them to make one of these wines with loads of oak, lots of alcohol, soft acidity and high pH. No one expects to get rich on a Petit Verdot. It’s an off-shoot in the line of most wineries and doesn’t have to live up to some artificial standard. Here are a few of the charming aspects of these grapes that I always find rewarding: Merlot: Disparaged for the last decade or so, the grape was done in by some ridiculing remarks by the sleazy Pinot lover in Sideways. But when grown in a cooler climate, the wine’s natural green tea and forest floor/tobacco scents combine with its overt fruitiness to make for an earlier-consuming red wine that has a complexity that focuses more on lightness than it does on tannin. In fact, tannin is one of the legitimate gripes I have with Merlot. When a winemaker aims for a lot of extraction in his or her Merlot, the result can be a wine that will take too long to come around, waiting for the tannins to sub12

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

side, and by then the fruit is often just a rumor. Malbec: This often more rustic, earthy grape variety can have charming herbal-cherry fruit notes when it is young, but it seems to be best consumed within five to six years of age, as it loses its fruit sooner than does Merlot. Still, this grape has its place (and a number of excellent Malbecs have come into the United States recently from Argentina), and generally that’s as a blender to provide a little early structure to a Meritage-type of wine. Cabernet Franc: Perhaps as versatile a grape as is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc is a bit trickier to know how to grow. In cool climates, its herbal notes are a tad of a challenge, but I often find these colder-climate versions fascinating in that they age so nicely. Yet since so few people age their red wines, some winemakers are a little gun-shy about making them with any herbal notes at all. With a substantial amount of tobacco and red cherry fruit, the wines can be up-front lovely when they are young, but hard tannins can ruin a good thing. When they are aimed at cellaring (such as few great Chinons I have had), the result is a sublime red wine that needs no serious aging and is actually fine without any new oak aging. Petit Verdot: The brooding, black-as-night, almost Petite Sirah-like grape of the bunch, this small-berried monster can have charming aromatics when young, but it’s really used as a minor additive to boost depth of the other reds. As such it’s like wine on steroids. Curiously enough, Petit Verdot seems like it is the answer to making great red wines in Virginia. It makes a wine that is darker and meatier than is the local Cabernet Franc but far more interesting than the often-too-herbal Cabernet Sauvignon. As a stand-alone in California, however, it’s hard to imagine it. The density of the wine is so inky that its tannins tend to be as astringent as anything you will ever taste. Notice, if you will, that all of these grapes have their unique qualities and why blends of them (as in most of Bordeaux) makes such sense. Especially if you are planning to age them for any length of time. Classic Meritage-type wines may not age longer than similar Cabernet Sauvignons from the same producer, but with a bit of aeration they can have a most salubrious effect with a chargrilled rare steak. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

13 Meier Enterprise

2/27/09

3:31 PM

Page 13

14 Market Grapevine

COLUMN

3/2/09

12:03 PM

Page 14

market grapevine BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Serenity of spring Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

s winter recedes, Northwest cooks welcome the serenity of spring and the fresh, delicate foods it brings. We celebrate the arrival of baby new potatoes and greens, seasonal celebrations with lamb as the centerpiece, the first catches of salmon and halibut and the appearance of the first rhubarb and strawberries. Our serene spring feast begins with an elegant appetizer: New Potatoes with Smoked Trout (or Salmon) Mousse, a recipe from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994, $12.95). Begin by placing eight unpeeled baby new potatoes in a saucepan that will hold them in a single layer. Cover them with one inch of lightly salted cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Place in a colander and run cold water over the potatoes to cool them. Drain thoroughly. Slice each potato in half and place on a serving platter. Now whip up a batch of Smoked Trout (or Salmon) Mousse by cutting two green onions into quarters crosswise and mincing in a food processor. Add four ounces of skinned, boned smoked trout or salmon, three ounces of cream cheese (room temperature) and one tablespoon of lemon juice. Purée until completely blended. Top the potatoes with the mousse and a sprinkling of snipped fresh chives or additional green onion. Pair the new potatoes with a luscious sparkling wine from Washington’s Columbia Valley: Domaine Ste. Michelle 2002 Luxe ($23). Made in the traditional Méthode Champenoise, this beautifully crafted bubbly delivers on every level, from its fine bubbles and color to its toasted nut and delicate citrus aromas to additional citrus, toast and vanilla on the palate. A Hazelnut-Berry Salad provides the perfect taste of spring. Make the berry vinaigrette by whisking two tablespoons each of raspberry vinegar, balsamic vinegar and strawberry jam with one teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a dash of freshly grated nutmeg and a sprinkle of kosher salt and freshly ground black or white pepper. Slowly whisk in four tablespoons of hazelnut or walnut oil until the dressing is smooth and shiny. Rinse and thoroughly dry eight cups of mixed baby spring greens (mesclun mix) and add to a large salad bowl. Rinse, hull, dry and thinly slice one pint of fresh strawberries and add to the bowl along with one-quarter cup of hazelnuts or walnuts. Toss the greens and goodies with the vinaigrette. Serve the salad with Cooper Mountain Vineyards 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir ($24), a certified-organic and Biodynamic wine from the Willamette Valley. You’ll love the way the spunky raspberry and cherry components and toasty oak in the wine mesh with the berry and nut flavors in the salad. 14

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Our serene spring entrée, Lamb Loin Stew, comes from Mike Neuffer, owner and winemaker at Nicolas Cole Cellars and GraEagle Winery in Walla Walla. The recipe is featured in my book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007, $34.95). Begin by heating three tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add two cups of chopped yellow onion and cook until slightly softened. Add two large minced garlic cloves and cook until softened. Increase the heat to medium-high and add one pound of boneless lamb loin (cut into one-third-inch strips and sprinkled with salt and black pepper to taste). Cook until browned on the outside but still pink within, then add six sun-dried tomatoes (packed in oil, but drained and cut into thin strips), one-half cup of reduced-sodium chicken stock and one-quarter cup of loosely packed basil leaves (cut into thin strips). Cover and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes, then add one 15-ounce can of butter beans (rinsed and drained), four sun-dried tomatoes (prepped as above) and one-quarter cup of basil (ditto). Stir well and cook until heated through, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Mike likes to serve this luscious, Mediterranean-leaning stew with GraEagle Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc ($30) from the Walla Walla Valley. It’s a lovely example of this varietal, deep purple in color, medium-bodied and rife with black currant, spice notes and velvety tannins that complement the stew so well. We conclude our serene spring supper with Buttery Pound Cake with Grand Marnier Glaze. You can look up venerable Vancouver chef John Bishop’s complete recipe for LemonOrange Pound Cake in Simply Bishop’s (Douglas & McIntyre, 2002, $30), or simply substitute a good-quality store-bought cake as I did. Meanwhile, make the glaze by zesting, then straining the juice of one orange and one lemon into a saucepan. Add one-and-one-quarter cups of granulated sugar and one-quarter cup of Grand Marnier (or other orange liqueur) and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the stove and cool to room temperature. Slice the cake and drizzle with the glaze — be generous — then dollop with unsweetened whipped cream or crème fraîche. The chef suggests pairing the orange-y cake with Quails’ Gate Late-Harvest Optima (375 ml, $33 Canadian) from the Okanagan Valley. Made from botrytis-affected Optima grapes, this unique dessert wine displays beautiful aromas and flavors of fig, beeswax, and ripe citrus. It’s the perfect wine to salute the serenity of spring. Braiden Rex-Johnson has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

15 Three Rivers

2/27/09

3:34 PM

Page 15

16 Swirl Sniff Sip

3/2/09

COLUMN

12:03 PM

Page 16

swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Winemaking expands north I know that British Columbia has been growing many of the classic wine grape varieties for a couple decades now but have never understood how they get the grapes to ripen there. Often I read that Oregon has trouble getting its Pinot Noir ripe, so how do they manage it in B.C.?

hen I first came to Washington state in the late 1970s, people were asking the same questions about Washington and Oregon. By then, wine buffs had begun to recognize that yes, Washington could grow good Riesling grapes and make excellent wine from them, but the popular sentiment was that Rhine-style wines would be the future of Washington. As for Oregon? Well, Pinot Noir was its future. That popular wisdom was about half right. More than three decades later, Washington still grows great Riesling and Oregon’s top Pinot Noir rivals the world’s best. Chateau Ste. Michele and Columbia Crest, Washington’s twin giants and sister wineries, bottle more Riesling than any other winery in the world. Over the past three decades, the two states’ growers since have learned how to grow and produce excellent grapes suited to climates ranging from Auxerrois to Zinfandel. The A to Z reference is not just a writer’s trick. Auxerrois traditionally has thrived in northern climes such as Alsace, Luxembourg and England. Now, Oregon and British Columbia both make medal-winners from it. And Zinfandel, the signature grape of California’s high-heat areas, now flourishes in Washington and Oregon, especially in the Columbia Gorge, where it is building a new northern reputation. As for British Columbia, its winemaking renaissance started back in the late 1980s and early 1990s when people like Harry McWatters, founder of Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, started pushing to change an established industry over from hybrid grape varieties to the European vinifera and to create a quality standard that would proclaim to the world, “This is good wine.” Like any area new to growing the European varieties, it took time to learn the basics. And B.C. grape growers and winemakers are still learning, no matter their previous experience. Take, for example, Bill Dyer, the winemaker and consultant who’s built a reputation in California for his own Dyer Vineyard winery in the Napa Valley and in B.C. for his work in the Okanagan Valley and in the Victoria area with Burrowing Owl Estate Winery and Church and State Wines. Dyer started working in the Okanagan with Burrowing Owl in 1997 with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and then Syrah. He soon found that the long summer days in the Okanagan Valley helped make up for the late start of spring. Although Cabernet Sauvignon grapes develop buds three weeks later than in the Napa Valley, for example, in a typical year they catch up quickly and reach veraison — the time in early August when the grapes turn from green to purple — only one week later than in Napa in a typical year. But despite several more years with Burrowing Owl and then taking on the winemaking duties at Church and State in 16

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

2005, it was 2007 before he felt he’d found just the right spot in the Okanagan for Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s the 2007 version of Church and State’s Cabernet, from a vineyard east of Lake Osoyoos. “I can say for the first time, it’s good enough to compare with any other Cab,” he said. What changed? His explanation is that this vineyard is the spot where the sun sets last in the Okanagan on the summer solstice. The extra sunlight makes the difference. Travel around B.C. vineyards and wineries and you’ll see many such innovations. On North Pender Island, which is just east of Vancouver Island, Keith Watt and Barbara Reed will show you vines planted on a steep, south-facing terraced hillside at Morning Bay Estate Vineyard and Winery. The 12,000-foot peaks of the Olympic Peninsula and the 6,000-foot crests of Vancouver Island create a rain shadow and more sunny weather. In the Okanagan, Syrah vines are tucked up against a rocky bluff where Burrowing Owl grapes are grown. On Vancouver Island, Cherry Point Vineyards, owned by the Cowichan Tribes, sheathes its grapes in layers of plastic sheeting to hold in the early heat of spring, and rocks are piled around the bases of the vines to hold that heat longer into the chilly evenings. Dyer said he had to learn that fruit could be left hanging after the first light frosts in the Okanagan took down the outer layers of leaves. The surviving leaves inside the vine canopy still can keep the grapes ripening, he discovered. Clearly, it remains a voyage of discovery for the Northwest’s grape growers and winemakers, especially those in B.C. Luckily, we wine lovers get to travel with them. Wine Words: Botrytis

This is the common shorthand for Botrytis cinerea, the socalled “noble rot” that winemakers welcome if they’re planning to make a sweet wine. It reduces the water content and “rots” the grapes, turning out the delightful Sauternes and Barsac from France and making some of our tastiest late harvest and ice wines in the Northwest. Spores of the fungus cling to the ripening grapes, feed on their moisture, acids and sugar, converting a grape with perhaps 13 or 14 percent alcohol potential (which is 26 to 28 percent sugar content), into something that may offer an alcohol potential of 18 to 26 percent, or 36 to 52 percent sugar. The goal is to turn only a portion of that to alcohol of usually no more than about 10 to 14 percent, leaving a honeyed, baked fruit, nutty and often very sweet wine with heavenly flavors and aromas. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 39 years and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 32 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

17 CSM ad

2/27/09

3:37 PM

Page 17

18 Teri Citterman

3/4/09

COLUMN

3:53 PM

Page 18

urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

SWW (single white wine) seeks commitment

he universal truth is such that we’re all looking for that perfect match. Whether you’re a man, woman or lobster, life is about test-driving enough potentials to eventually find that perfect match. And, often, on our journey, we invoke the power of wine to help us reach just a little bit further. We drink in pursuit of Mr. Right — and we drink even more in pursuit of Mr. Right Now. But we don’t give much thought to the fate of the wine. It, too, may be on a secret search to find that special someone. It’s true, wines search for their own True North, the perfect drinker who will passionately uncork it and plunge into every ounce of its complexity with wild, reckless abandon. Who sees the good in every bottle, weighs the impact of his critique and forgives its small flaws? Is it a myth or does it exist? The Perfect Palate? The Committed Connoisseur? Is he or she really out there? I found a few wines that are casting their line with the hope of catching Prince or Princess Charming. You Can Sleep When You’re Dead I’m Long Shadows Vintners 2006 Carmina Burana Poet’s Leap Riesling, Columbia Valley. Bright, clean and full of intricacy, I evoke sophisticated German ideals expressed through vibrant layers of fresh pear, dried apricot and light grapefruit. Avoiding overt harmonic complexities, I look great in a stemless but do prefer long-stemmed, thin crystal. YOU lean toward subtleties and have a taste for the finer things. You are as comfortable at the opera as you are in a cage, minus the theater binoculars. You are honest and considerate, have a healthy stamina and are an interesting pain in the butt. If you’re looking to spice up your life with a hint of secret sauce, come a little closer because I don’t bite … hard. Care to talk? Chat? Argue? You May Already Be a Winner If you love Washington Chardonnay, stand back for a fat, sweet explosion of firm acidity and plump spiciness. I’m Mark Ryan Winery 2006 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, and I’ve got your number! I’m sugar and spice and all that’s nice with hints of pineapple upside-down cake and nutty cinnamon. You are somewhere between a thrill-seeker and a tater tot, aren’t afraid to scale a rock face and don’t get aggravated when I lead us 100 miles in the wrong direction. You’re the one who doesn’t knock it till you try it — and laughs when I say something unintentionally stupid. I’m funny, you’re kind. I am an awful navigator, but that leads to all sorts of adventures. Do You Have a Date? How ’bout a Raisin? I am Peller Estates 2004 Vidal Icewine, Okanagan Valley. I love cold weather and have a warm, Canadian heart. I’m on the smooth side, with pronounced pineapple, pear and apricot. I’m the one that leads the Conga line — full of style and elegance that bursts into lemony custard. My balanced acid is 18

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

tangled with caramelized orange and Tropicana lusciousness. Sip slowly because my honeycomb finish is long, and when I say long, think Energizer Bunny. You appreciate the sweetness in life and all the places it will take you. Full of Piss & Vinegar I’m Gård Vintners 2006 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, and it’s time to make “me” time, “we” time. I’m clean and crisp and tantalizing. From me, you’ll get green apple, citrus and honeydew. And that’s true! Honey, I do! I can be a little pushy, but most love a wine that has control behind the wheel. I like to think I’m a unique balance of tender masculinity and gentle sweet. If you’re looking for drippy syrup, pass on me, but be forewarned, you’ll regret it. If you’re open to the possibilities and overlook a little clunkiness, you’ll be hard-pressed not to fall in love. I’ve got a wicked sense of humor and a refined Alsatian flair. Me, me? Oui, oui! Lobsters Mate for Life I am Kana Winery 2006 Katie Mae, Yakima Valley, a white blend of Northwest-unadorned style. I’m on the sweeter side, ripe with fresh nectarine and tangerine. Friends say I’m a relative balance of acid and spunk, and am a great sipper on a sunny day. Admittedly, I’m not fussy and could use a little more refinement, but for the value, I’m a catch! If you want to solve global warming, I’m not sure I can help. I’m simple and uncomplicated. What you see is what you get. If you’re someone who’s laid-back, has reasonable expectations, doesn’t take life too seriously and likes to laugh, you won’t be disappointed. My glass is always half full, and if you see life similarly, we should talk. More Fun than Soap on a Rope If your favorite Muppet is Miss Piggy, there is a good chance that we just won’t get along. I’m Koenig Vineyards 2005 Ice Wine, Snake River Valley, a glass of velvet with a slow, lingering finish. Full of ripe juicy pear, buxom peaches and soft crème brulée, I’m looking for a playmate who can maneuver my long, shiny legs swathed in gold lame. Meeeeowwww! At times I’m nice, but I’d rather be naughty. I look great coming out of a Genie bottle, and rest assured, I know what your three wishes would be. If you have both oars in the water, and are ready to take a little skinny dip, you’re up for too much fun. Chemistry is key. Don’t talk, just sip. Get in touch with any and all of them if you think YOU might be the one. Did I mention The German and I met on Match.com? (He was my second date.)

With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

19 Spring Fest ad

2/27/09

3:44 PM

Page 19

20-23 Calendar

3/4/09

3:53 PM

W I N E C O U N T RY

Page 20

activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

A growing number of us are stuck between wanting to feed our economy, i.e. spending, and trying to save as much as we can in fear of getting that fateful instruction to visit the office of the Evil H.R. Director. In this issue, you will read how this recession — do you belive it now, Phil Gramm? — is affecting our Northwest wine industry. Funny, but many Americans might now better understand the infamous quote uttered by former basketball great Patrick Ewing during the NBA work stoppage. “I make a lot of money, but I spend a lot of money, too.” That’s putting his Georgetown education to work on economic theory. I prefer that my trickle-down economics stem from the tipping of a green hock bottle.

Eschew the chains. The past 12 months have seen a number of fine locally owned restaurants in the Pacific Northwest shutter their doors. Several of them were friends of Wine Press Northwest so it angers me when I see patrons wander into chain restaurants, merely following the herd. How many of the large chains become active parts of our communities or are committed to Northwest wines? Fewer folks are dining out, and their reasons are understandable. However, for the month of March — and again in November — folks in the Seattle area have an easier time of dining out. There are 30 of the region’s better restaurants offering a three-course dinner for just $30 on Sunday through Thursday. Some are doing lunch for $15. The name of the program, get this, is “Dine Around Seattle.” It’s entering its 20

eighth year and a number of friends of the Washington wine industry helped get it off the ground. It doesn’t include beverages, but it leaves you more money to spend on a glass or bottle of Northwest wine. During the years, I’ve spotlighted several of these restaurants in Wine Press Northwest’s annual wine list competition, including Barking Frog, Dahlia Lounge, Earth & Ocean, Flying Fish, Steelhead Diner and 0/8 Seafood Grill. For the entire 30/30 list, go to dinearoundseattle.org.

A Gorgeous snapshot. One of the best regions in the Northwest for wine touring is the Columbia Gorge, which spans both sides of the Columbia River. And this year, the winery group created a event for the last weekend in March. It’s called, “A Passport to A World of Wine in 40 Miles.” It runs March 2729 and gives ticket holders the opportunity to get in on reserve tastings, new releases, discounts and other stuff. A passport costs $15. Call 866-413-9463, or go to columbiagorgewine.com. Sadly, the Columbia Gorge Hotel is no longer a lodging option after its owners closed it down this winter.

Get some Face time. I’ve joined Facebook. A buddy of mine from our days at the University of Washington Daily warned me about “friending” former high school classmate who are mainly “friend whores.” With that in mind, I’ve restricted my “friends” to real friends and friends in the Northwest wine industry. Honestly, I’ve found it to be fun, rewarding and informative. One of my favorite things to do is post, for example, “Eric is enjoying a glass of Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris. To quote

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Andy Perdue, ‘Damn, that’s good!’ ” It’s interesting to see what other winesters, Walla Walla chef Andrae Bopp, for example, are drinking. Seems he’s stuck on Dusted Valley and Sleight of Hand, so he’s got good taste. If you find me, University of Oregon fans will recognize where my profile photo was taken.

Spring break in the Willamette Valley. More families are staying closer to home during spring break, and several wineries in Oregon are catering to them. In fact, seven wineries will offer “kid-friendly activities” in conjunction with the 150 Days of Wine in the Willamette Valley. The weekend of March 28-29 is a part of the spring break for many schools. So ArborBrook, Daedalus, Eyrie, Natalie’s Estate, Panther Creek, Stoller and Vista Hills will provide an assortment of scavenger hunts, drawings and tractor rides. For more information, go to vistahillsvineyard.com or call 503-864-3200. Memo to parents — show your kids that it’s hip to spit.

A semi-shameless plug. For the seventh straight year, the Yakima Enological Society will be playing host to its Platinum Dinner — a food and wine pairing evening with a special twist at Yakima Country Club. The 17 wines to be served at the April 11 event were selected from the top winners at Wine Press Northwest’s 2008 Platinum Judging. The YES folks got their hands on seven of the Double Platinum wines and 10 of the Platinums. Hank Sauer, master facilitator of Wine Press Northwest, will be back as the master of ceremonies. Seating capacity is 144, and the event sells out faster than you can say CedarCreek Estate Winery W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

20-23 Calendar

3/2/09

12:15 PM

Page 21

W I N E C O U N T RY Winery 2007 Ehrenfelser. Cost is $140. Call 509-949-3697 or go to yakimawine.org/events.html.

Go fly a kite. It’s against the law to go drinking and driving, but I don’t think there’s a blue law against drinking red wine and flying a kite. Columbia Crest in Paterson, Wash., holds it annual kite festival on April 19. Kite enthusiasts can bring their kites and fly them with experts from around the Columbia Basin. Prizes will be awarded in several categories. There’s no cost to participate, and Columbia Crest wines are among the best bargains in America. Call 888-3099463 or go to columbia-crest.com.

A primer to the OK Festival. Here’s something new on my radar. Quails’ Gate in Kelowna, British Columbia, puts on Sunday wine workshops at the winery with Jon Randle, the staff sommelier and wine educator. These blind tastings compare regional wines with those from around the world. Each workshop focuses on a grape variety or viticultural region, and he’s got two on the docket this spring — Aromatic Whites on April 12, and Que Syrah, Syrah on April 26. Three days later, the 10-day Okanagan Spring Wine Festival begins. Cost is $40 per person per class for the 2 1/2 hour class, and they are limited to 20. If the classes are as classy as Grant Stanley’s wines or the Old Vines Restaurant, that’s saying a lot. Read more at quailsgate.com.

Another one for the kids. On May 8, the Riverhouse Convention Center in Bend, Ore., is the site for the 17th annual Deschutes Children’s Foundation’s Art and Wine Auction. This event generates most of the operating funds for the group that serves children and families of Deschutes County. Participating wineries include ArborBrook, Chehalem, Mount Hood, Sokol Blosser, Volcano and Youngberg Hill. Live music will be provided by Todd Haaby and Sola Via. The signature W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

20-23 Calendar

3/2/09

12:16 PM

Page 22

W I N E C O U N T RY artist is Jacqueline Newbold. Cost is $99. Go to deschuteschildrensfoundation.org.

Bringing wine to Ellensburg. The Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce and Central Washington University’s World Wine Program are popping the cork May 9 on the inaugural Ellensburg Wine Festival. More than two dozen wineries, most from the central part of the state, have committed to pour at this event. Wineries will have tasting stations set up inside downtown businesses within walking distance of each other. Live music will be provided at several sites, and The Deli at the Valley Cafe is among the pouring sites. A ticket is $30, which includes a wine glass and 10 tasting scrips. Call 509-925-2002 or go to ellensburg-chamber.com.

Idaho’s version of Taste Washington. There’s a new buzz in the Idaho wine industry. Part of the reason is that last year the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission hired Moya Shatz as its executive director. A product of the Washington Wine Commission, it’s no coincidence that she’s launching Savor Idaho, an event featuring Idaho wineries and Idaho restaurants. (Hmm, sounds like Taste Washington.) All products featured at Savor Idaho will be from the Gem State, and it’s being held at the Idaho Botanical Gardens in Boise. The only downside for me is the event is June 21, which is Father’s Day and the same day at Taste Washington Spokane. My apologies to our North Idaho bureau chief, but I won’t be at The Davenport this year with you. I don’t want to miss the first Savor Idaho. Cost is $40. Call 208-455-8354 or go to idahowines.org. Hope to see you there. — What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. — Have an item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events and follow the directions.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

20-23 Calendar

3/2/09

12:16 PM

Page 23

events

W I N E C O U N T RY

March 28 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. Northwest wines take center stage at the 20th annual fundraiser for St. Martin’s University. Cost is $14. Contact 360-438-4366 or go to capitalfoodandwine.com.

April 3-4 Eighth Annual Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamins Edgefield Winery brings in winemakers and distributors from the Northwest and beyond for a Syrah showdown. Call 800-669-8610 or go to celebrationofsyrah.com. 4-5 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington’s signature wine event starts Saturday with seminars at Bell Harbor and ends Sunday with the tasting at the Qwest Field Event Center. Cost starts at $85. Go to tastewashington.org. 17-18 Festival of Wine and Flowers, Spokane, Wash. The 18th annual tasting and auction of Washington wines raises money for St. Luke’s Rehabilitation Institute, which stages the event. Cost is $125. Winemaker dinners are staged on the first night. Call 509-789-4969 or go to festivalofwineandflowers.com. 18-19 Passport to Woodinville, Woodinville, Wash. These are the only two days of the year during which all these wineries are open to the public. Cost is $60 per person. Call 425-482-7348 or go to woodinvillewinecountry.com. 24-26 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases the more than 50 wineries and special seminars in the Northwest’s oldest appellation. Cost is $30. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org. 24-26 Astoria-Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival, Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries while enjoying seafood at the mouth of the Columbia River. This marks the event’s 27th year. Call 503-325-6311 or go to oldoregon.com.

May April 30-May 9 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to owfs.com or call 250-861-6654. 1-2 Indie Wine Festival, Portland. Wineries with production of less than 2,000 cases compete for the right to pour at this block party in the Pearl District. Cost is $75. Call 503-595-0891 or go to indiewinefestival.com. 2-3 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. This is one of two weekends during which nearly every winery is open. Call 509-526-3117 or go wallawallawine.com. 8-10 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Spokane wineries continue to open their doors to visitors on Mother’s Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net. 15-17 North Central Washington Barrel Tasting. More than 20 wineries in Chelan, Cashmere, Leavenworth, Omak, Oroville, Wenatchee and Wilbur open their doors to tourists. Call 509-782-0708 or go to columbiacascadewines.com. 23-25 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country, Willamette Valley, Ore. This is one of two regional weekends in the valley. Call 503-646-2985 or go to willamettewines.com.

June 12-14 Sun Valley Food & Wine Festival, Sun Valley, Idaho. The second annual event includes a number of Idaho wineries. A festival pass costs $229. Individual tickets are available. Call 866-305-9798 or go to sunvalleyfoodandwinefestival.com. 20 Sunshine & Wine, Yakima, Wash. Sample wines from the Washington State Wine Competition while enjoying food, music and an auction at State Fair Park. Cost is $75. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com.event. 20 Winthrop Wine Festival, Winthrop, Wash. Fifteen regional wineries pour near the banks of the Methow River. Cost is $20. Go to winthropwashington.com. 21 Taste Washington Spokane. The historic Davenport Hotel plays host to the eighth edition of this event. Cost is $85. Go to tastewashington.org. 21 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission puts wineries and restaurants on display at the Idaho Botanical Gardens. Cost is $40. Go to savoridaho.org. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

24-27 Front of Book

3/4/09

4:47 PM

Page 24

WINE VIEWS

Spokane wineries can please a tightwad BY BARGAIN BOB WOEHLER

The Spokane region wineries are a small, tight-knit group. Many are downtown, and it is a wine community where prices haven’t gone though the roof.

And with not a lot of diligence, ol’ Bargain Bob found some great deals. The prices are the suggested retail at the wineries, but often they can be found in stores for a buck or two less if

you do some shopping around — especially at the state liquor stores. And you may find some of these on wine lists because several Spokane restaurants support their local wineries. Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2007 Muscat Canelli, Washington, $10: Mike Conway,

the winemaker, sums up my feelings about this aromatic variety. “A delight by itself, this wonderfully balanced wine is also a suitable complement for any shellfish meal and goes especially well with food prepared with lots of garlic or spice.” Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2006 Sangiovese, Washington, $10: The grapes

come from the Wahluke Slope, and Conway says not only do customers like the way this wine tastes, but they also like the way the word rolls off their tongues. Lone Canary Winery 2007 Birdhouse Red, Columbia Valley, $15: Rated by Wine

Press Northwest as “Outstanding!” here’s a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s a nice relationship among the fruit, tannins and acidity, making it a tremendous food wine. Townshend Cellar 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $11: Honeysuckle, lemon

and lime aromas yield to crisp mineral, grapefruit and tangerine notes on the palate. Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $10: This took a gold at

the Dallas Morning News competition. It finishes slightly sweet to balance the bright acidity and makes for a long and supple finish. Arbor Crest Wine Cellars NV Cliff House Red, Columbia Valley, $14: The tasting room is within the historic home on the rocky bluff overlooking the Spokane Valley. It’s a consistently good blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Sirah and Malbec, offering bright fruit aromas with jammy flavors. 24

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

24-27 Front of Book

3/2/09

1:22 PM

Page 25

WINE NEWS

U.S. approves new Washington AVA The federal government approved Snipes Mountain, Washington’s 10th American Viticultural Area. Snipes Mountain, near the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside, might be the state’s newest appellation, but it’s one of its oldest wine grape growing areas. At 4,145 acres in size, it’s Washington’s second-smallest AVA (after Red Mountain). About 550 acres of grapes are planted there. The AVA includes Harrison Hill, which is adjacent to Snipes Mountain. Grapes were planted on Harrison Hill in 1912 and on Snipes Mountain in 1914. William Bridgman made the area famous with his Upland Winery, which operated in Sunnyside from 1934 to 1972. The Newhouse family now owns the land and has relaunched Upland to honor Bridgman’s pioneering work. It also spearheaded the effort to have the appellation approved.

Archery Summit founder Andrus dies Gary Andrus, who founded Archery Summit in Dundee, Ore., and helped change viticulture in the Willamette Valley, died Jan. 30 in Hillsboro, Ore., of complications from pneumonia. He was 63. The former member of the U.S. Ski Team made coveted Cabernet Sauvignon at Pine Ridge in the Napa Valley before moving to Oregon and planting Pinot Noir in the Dundee Hills in 1993. Andrus’ ability to ripen Pinot Noir more quickly and his winemaking talents made Archery Summit a cult winery and the first in Oregon to sell wine for $100 per bottle. He also is credited with spearheading the creation of California’s Stags Leap District American Viticultural Area. Andrus sold Archery Summit in 2001 and moved to New Zealand, but quickly returned to Oregon and launched Gypsy Dancer Estates. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

24-27 Front of Book

3/2/09

1:23 PM

Page 26

WINE NEWS

Sparkling new product preserves your bubbly BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

There’s no longer the need to finish that bottle of Argyle Brut in one night because the folks at Pek Preservation Systems have done it again. The latest product from this outfit in Windsor, Calif., uses argon gas and a new stopper designed for a sparkling wine bottle to lock in the bubbles and freshness for several days. The wood box includes a Preservino argon injector, one argon cartridge, the sparkling wine stopper and a still wine stopper. Both are chrome-plated and feature Preservino’s click-and-pour technology. Cost is $100. Replacement argon catridges are sold separately. A couple of years ago, we tested and endorsed the PEK single-bottle Supremo system. The unit made it into my kitchen, and I use it constantly. Go to peksystems.com for information.

A handy tool for Okanagan Valley wine tourists Okanagan Wine: A Guide to Valley Wines, by Julianna Hayes, Okanagan Valley Newspaper Group, 2008, $10 Canadian

This pocket-sized book offers an efficient and informed look at many of the top wines in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. Julianna Hayes arrived in the Okanagan Valley in 1996 as journalist from Ontario and has grown her wine knowledge with the industry. She’s now the region’s leading wine columnist, an educator and commentator for CBC Radio. It’s noteworthy that Harry McWatters, co-founder of Sumac Ridge and the B.C. Wine Institute, wrote this book’s forward. She covers the area’s history, defines wine terms and devotes about 25 of the 26

guide’s 168 pages to pairing wine with food. It is more attractive than most guides this size because of the bottle portraits displayed with a description and rating of each wine. She published only wines that she liked, and there are about 105 wines she spotlights. The trouble with vintage-specific guides is they soon become outdated. However, this is priced to sell, and her success with this format warrants it becoming an annual project. — Eric Degerman Oregon: The Taste of Wine, by Janis Miglavs, Graphic Arts Cener Publishing, Portland, 2008, $25

Former National Geographic photographer Janis Miglavs could not have found more fertile ground than Oregon wine country for his newest book. Miglavs captured the spirit of Oregon viticulture and winemaking in this volume, which should be added to any serious wine lover’s collection of books. But it’s more than just pretty pic-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

tures. Miglavs also conducted dozens of interviews to create an oral history of sorts, providing several great stories most of us have not heard before. Like when Dick Erath tried an Oregon wine (from another winery) that smelled like whiskey because the winemaker had purchased barrels from a distillery and didn’t wash them out first. Miglavs’ photographs and writing tell a story about Oregon wine that has not been revealed before. It shows the region’s character — and characters — making it a volume to be enjoyed and cherished. — Andy Perdue W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

24-27 Front of Book

3/2/09

1:25 PM

Page 27

a weekend around in Salem

D E S T I N AT I O N S

Oregon’s capital grows with wine country BY L E A H J O R G E N S E N

Salem is a city of growth. In fact, the state capital recently surpassed Eugene to become Oregon’s second-largest city. Planted in the north Willamette Valley, Salem boasts a rich commercial agricultural history dating back to the mid-1850s. Nicknamed “The Cherry City,” it is also home to 90 percent of the world’s marionberrries, named for its county. Berry fruits, in particular, grow very well in this region — including strawberries, loganberries — as do wine grapes. The city is flanked by one of the Willamette Valley’s newest sub-appellations, the Eola-Amity Hills American Viticultural Area. Scenic country roads draw visitors to experience the region’s exceptional wineries and tasting rooms, along with other artisan culinary destinations, such as Wandering Angus cidery and Willamette Valley Cheese Co. Wineries: There are 30 wineries in the Eola-Amity Hills with about 1,500 vineyard acres planted. Among the suggested wineries near Salem include Ankeny Vineyard, Arcane Cellars, Bethel Heights Vineyard, Bryn Mawr Vineyards, Cristom Vineyards, Cubanisimo Vineyard, Evesham Wood Winery, Honeywood Winery, Redhawk Winery, St. Innocent Winery, Strangeland Vineyard, Willamette Valley Vineyards and Witness Tree Vineyard.

Honeywood, the winery nearest to downtown Salem, was established in 1933, making it the oldest producing winery in Oregon. Willamette Valley Vineyards, one of the state’s largest wineries, is a leader in sustainability practices and just launched its cork recycling program. Food: Bentleys Grill offers comfortable fine dining in an elegant setting with a focus on Pacific Northwest cuisine and a wine list that features an excellent selection of local wines. Old Europe Inn covers brunch, lunch or dinner with a French influence. J. James uses fresh ingredients and changes its menu seasonally. Ram Restaurant & Brewery is a perfect choice for family dining. Eola Hills Wine Cellars offers one of the best Sunday brunches in the region. Lodging: The Phoenix Grand Hotel is Salem’s newest premier hotel. There are also a handful of B&Bs, namely the Bed & Breakfast at Sunnyside Vineyard, a custom designed Northwest country home in one of Oregon’s oldest vineyards. Hopewell B&B is another wine country destination featuring a working farm and private rooms that are self-contained abodes. Salem also has a long list of budget hotels available downtown or in near proximity. Things to do: Downtown Salem is one of the state’s travel and tourism mainstays. It offers a variety of amenities including shopping, theater, museums, galleries and seasonal festivals. There are several gardens and wildlife refuges in and about Salem. Wander through the incredible 80-acre Oregon Garden and its Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Gordon House. Take the Wheatland Ferry (Exit 263 from I-5), which shuttles passengers across the Willamette River, linking Marion with W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Benches under the Witness Tree overlook the vineyard named after it and the Willamette Valley. PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

Yamhill and Polk counties, and promises an enjoyable way to enter wine country. On March 20, the Eola-Amity Hills Winegrowers Association is staging its first-ever event. It’s called the Equinox in the Eola Amity Hills, and it will be at Zenith Vineyard in Salem. The event will showcase 25 wineries, live music, dancing and gourmet fare. Tickets are $25 per person in advance; $30 on the day of the event. Go to eolaamityhills.com. More info: It’s easy to find information on the region, but start by visiting the Travel Salem site at travelsalem.com. LEAH JORGENSEN is a communications expert who has worked in the Northwest wine

industr y for a decade. She consults for several wineries and writes about travel, wine and gluten-free living. This is her first contribution to Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is www.leahjorgensen.com. S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

28-31 Wild Goose

3/4/09

3:58 PM

Page 28

Hagen Kruger is the winemaker at Wild Goose Vineyards.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T â&#x20AC;˘ S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-31 Wild Goose

3/2/09

12:54 PM

Page 29

AWA R D S

I 2009 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year

Wild Goose Vineyards BY A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

n today’s world, red wines get most of the ink. They are sexy, they generally fetch higher prices, and they create more buzz among “serious” wine lovers. Yet making great white wine is at least as difficult as making reds, as most winemakers will attest. And making some of the greatest white wines anywhere are the folks at Wild Goose Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, B.C., our 2009 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. The vineyard and winery started very much on a whim. In 1983, Adolf “Fritz” Kruger was a semi-retired electrical engineer. The German immigrant raised his family in the Lower Mainland and had never been involved in the wine industry. He and his wife, Susie, moved to a log home near Cache Creek, in the Interior of British Columbia. They happened to visit a friend who was growing grapes in the Okanagan Valley and decided that was a perfect retirement project. “They decided they’d rather do this than sit in caribou country,” said son Roland Kruger. Initially, Fritz looked for a 5-acre plot, but after getting his sons Hagen and Roland involved, they planted 10 acres near the town of Okanagan Falls. The Kruger family planted its vineyard in 1983, selling grapes to wineries such as Mission Hill. At this time, wineries tended to dictate to growers what they should grow — and prior to 1988, those grapes often were hybrid grapes rather than the more desirable European varieties. However, Fritz turned that model on its head, planted Riesling and Gewürztraminer and told the wineries what they could have. “Luck plays a large role,” said Hagen. “We planted the Riesling at a time when the ‘experts’ said we were crazy. We’re lucky because we now have these 25-year-old plants that are only going to get better as

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

28-31 Wild Goose

3/2/09

AWA R D S

12:56 PM

Page 30

winery of the year

they get older.” as being much more than In the late 1980s, the a small, family-run operaB.C. wine industry was in tion. Year after year, the W I L D G O O S E V I N E YA R D S transition. The governKrugers’ wines have ment paid growers to tear measured up against the A D D R E S S : 2145 Sun Valley Way, Okanagan Falls, B.C. out the French hybrid best around, winning P H O N E : 250-497-8919 grapes and replant with dozens of gold medals W E B S I T E : wildgoosewinery.com classic European varieties. across Canada and North H O U R S : Tasting room open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily The Krugers never figured America. In the past three April 1-Oct. 31 or by appointment. they would get into the years, Wild Goose wines D I R E C T I O N S : Driving north on Highway 97 between winemaking side of the have earned five Oliver and Okanagan Falls, turn right onto Oliver Ranch business but decided to Platinums and one unaniRoad, then follow the signs to Wild Goose. go in that direction in mous Double Platinum in 1990. First, Fritz had to Wine Press Northwest’s lobby the provincial govannual “best of the best ernment to create a new in Great Northwest” comcategory of wine producpetition. All were for ers known as “farm gate white wines, which make wineries,” which had to up 75 percent of Wild farm at least 3 acres of Goose’s 9,000 cases of vines and use 75 percent wine. In 2007, we honof their own grapes. Farm ored Wild Goose as our gate wineries were British Columbia Winery approved in June 1990, of the Year. and Wild Goose was the The winery is best second winery to get its known for its Rieslings, of license, after Lang which it makes no fewer Vineyards. than three styles, and “Dad was an amateur Gewürztraminers, of winemaker,” Hagen said. which it produces two “He had some winemaking separate bottlings. books, but he went to U.C. “Riesling truly is made Davis to get books written in the vineyard,” Hagen in English. At that time, said. “It really expresses there were no consultants. its place, the soil it’s been There were 18 wineries here in 1990, and you jumped in grown in and the site it’s grown on. Riesling needs a with both feet and did your best.” good site to do really well. We spend a lot of time in the Fritz was the winemaker until 1998, when he turned the vineyard, nurturing the plant along, and it really pays operation over to his sons, with Hagen as winemaker and off.” Roland as general manager. This year, Fritz turns 78 and In recent years, Wild Goose also has focused on Pinot still is going full blast, working side by side with his sons. Blanc and Pinot Gris. And Autumn Gold, a blend of Hagen caught the winemaking bug when he was 16 Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc, is the winery’s and spent a summer in Germany, where he learned best-selling wine. Hagen and Roland’s mother, Susie, has about and appreciated the attitude Europeans have played a key role in that. toward alcohol. “Mom has played a huge role in developing this busi“Growing up in Vancouver, I wasn’t quite focused,” he ness,” Roland said. “In the early days, you always left the admitted. “At that time, a seed was planted and winemakwinery with a bottle of Autumn Gold because it was her ing was something I wanted to pursue.” favorite wine. In those years, the wines were good qualiThe family brought in winemaking consultant Christine ty, but our mom always helped sell that wine.” Leroux, who mentored Hagen on many of the fine points The tremendous success Wild Goose enjoys with white of the business. wines only pushes Hagen toward success with reds. “She taught me stability in winemaking and helped me “It takes a lot more resources to make a good red fine-tune my skills,” Hagen said. “I guess I was an apt stuwine,” Hagen said. “As we grow, we’re able to afford dent.” these resources, and it really helps in our red wine proIndeed. In the past decade, Wild Goose has emerged gram. I realize we’re doing well with our whites, but it’s a

GETTING TO

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

28-31 Wild Goose

3/2/09

1:00 PM

Page 31

winery of the year

AWARDS INFO H O W T H E PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R I S C H O S E N

The Winery of the Year is selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest and is based on a set of criteria, including longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations. A winery may win the award only once. PA S T PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T WINERIES OF THE YEAR 2008:

Dunham Cellars, Walla Walla,

Wash. 2007:

Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston,

Ore.

2006:

Barnard Griffin, Richland,

Wash. 2005:

L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash. 2 0 0 3 : Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. 2 0 0 2 : Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash. 2004:

HOW THE REGIONAL WINERIES OF THE YEAR ARE CHOSEN

Regional wineries of the year are selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest based on blind tastings, visits, accolades and other considerations. Wineries of the Year must have completed at least five vintages, while Wineries to Watch must

great challenge to me, and I put a lot more effort into the reds. I don’t want to be one-dimensional.” Hagen crafts four reds: two Merlots, a Pinot Noir and a unique dessert wine known as Black Brandt. Made with Maréchal Foch, Black Brandt is a Port-style wine that is not fortified with brandy, but rather is continuously fermented. In other words, Hagen adds sugar to the wine during fermentation until it reaches about 17 percent alcohol. One wine Hagen doesn’t produce is ice wine, a specialty in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley. “I’m sorry, but I grew up in Vancouver,” Hagen said with a deep chuckle. “So to be out in the cold at minus-9 (Celsius), that’s not my style.” Already, the third generation of Krugers is involved in Wild Goose. Hagen’s son Nick, 23, works in the cellar, side by side with his father, and Alex, 19, works in the vineyard. “They want to do this for a living,” their proud father said. “They seem to be really enjoying it and showing a lot of good work ethic. It’s great to be able to work with your sons and make great wines,” he added. “What more could you want?” Indeed, Wild Goose remains very much a family operation, and that’s the way they like it. The Kruger brothers look around the rest of the valley and watch beautiful buildings being erected with a slight amount of envy. But they know they have something a lot more important. “I’d love to have a nicer winery,” Roland said. “I’d love to have my own office. But when we sit down and really reflect on the strengths of Wild Goose, it’s wine and family.” ı A N D Y P ERD U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page

designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

have been in business no more than five years.

Ken Wright Cellars, Carlton,

Ore.

AWA R D S

2008 WINNERS WA S H I N G T O N W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R :

DiStefano, Woodinville WA S H I N G T O N W I N E RY T O WAT C H :

Tildio, Manson O R E G O N W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R :

Bethel Heights, Salem O R E G O N W I N E RY T O WAT C H :

Brandborg, Elkton B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R : Gray Monk, Okanagan Centre B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A W I N E RY T O WAT C H : Le Vieux Pin, Oliver I D A H O W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R :

Indian Creek, Kuna I D A H O W I N E RY T O WAT C H :

Williamson Vineyards, Caldwell

Brothers Hagen, center, and Roland, right, along with their father Adolf “Fritz” Kruger started Wild Goose Vineyards in 1983.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

32 Maryhill.qxd

3/2/09

AWA R D S

1:03 PM

Page 32

washington winery of the year

the Columbia River just below Maryhill — and the bicentennial of the pair’s trek west was expected to be a big deal. Many of the grapes the Leutholds wanted to use were planted nearby, and they have a great relationship with the Gunkel family, which has been farming the region for decades. And they could envision a concert venue in a natural amphitheater just below the winery. It now seats 4,000 people who love the idea of listening to great music, sipping wine and watching the sun set over the Cascades. That the Leutholds have Vicki and Craig been able to exceed their Leuthold with their own lofty goals and turn furry tasting room them into one of the pregreeter, Potter. mier destination wineries in PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM the Pacific Northwest made it pretty easy for us to name Maryhill our 2009 Washington Winery of the Year. The couple were from Spokane, where they worked in businesses unrelated to the wine industry. As they grew to love wine and traveled Goldendale, Wash. throughout the Northwest, the realBY A N D Y P E R D U E ized there was more to life. “We wanted to get off the corpohen Craig and Vicki rate merry-go-round,” Craig said. Leuthold opened Maryhill “We always had a passion for wine, Winery in 2001, they did so and we wanted to take that to a difwith 4,300 cases from the 1999 vinferent level. We knew Washington tage. The wines were delicious, but was on the cusp of greatness, and the Leutholds had something grand everyone we met in the industry was in mind. so wonderful. That excited us, and First was location, which is nothwe knew we wanted to become ing short of stunning. The winery is involved in it.” on the edge of a cliff overlooking Today, Maryhill has grown to the grand Columbia Gorge and pro80,000 cases, making it the state’s vides an inspiring view of Mount 15th largest winery. The Leutholds’ Hood to the southwest. The facility original business plan figured they is deliberately just outside of the would be at 20,000 by now, but they Columbia Gorge National Scenic didn’t count on their Winemaker’s Area, a designation that would proRed, a value-priced blend, exploding hibit future expansion. from 3,000 cases to 30,000. In fact, It is on the Lewis & Clark trail — most of Maryhill’s wines are priced the intrepid explorers floated down in such a way that they are pretty

Maryhill Winery

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

much recession-proof, with whites in the $10-$15 range and nonreserve reds between $15 and $20. In 2007, 75,000 visitors stopped by the winery, an astonishing number considering its relative remoteness from major cities. The Leutholds credit the growth of the Columbia Gorge as a wine-touring destination, but they also are savvy marketers, using many forms of advertising and distribution to draw visitors. And the wines are nothing short of superb. Maryhill has won hundreds of medals in eight short years, including six Platinums and unanimous Double Platinums in our annual year-end best-of-the-best competition. These days, the Leutholds are not standing still. Last year, they brought in a new winemaker, Garry Penner, who worked in California, Texas and Missouri before arriving at Maryhill. They are confident he will be able to handle the winery’s large production well into the future. They also are building an event area near the winery, complete with four bocce ball courts, a large grassy area and 3,000 square feet under an arbor, complete with a tasting bar. They have their summer concert series lined up, too. Though they could not reveal the acts until all contracts are signed, they promised several big names. The only thing left to do, it would seem, is to open a restaurant at the winery. “We keep telling people to shoot us if we think about opening a restaurant,” Vicki said with a laugh. Instead, they’ll probably beef up their on-site deli and continue to use caterers from The Dalles, Hood River and other surrounding communities. With everything else they’ve done right, you can’t blame us for trying to talk them into it. ı Maryhill Winery, 9774 Highway 14, Goldendale, WA 98620, 877-627-9445, maryhillwinery.com.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

33 steppe.qxd

3/2/09

1:40 PM

Page 33

washington winery to watch

AWA R D S

Seattle where they take care of much of the distribution and sales for this up-andcoming winery. Keeping everything in the family, most of Steppe Cellars’ red grapes come from Stone Tree Vineyard, owned by Tedd Wildman, who is the husband of Steppe’s winemaker, Anka Freimuth-Wildman. She moved to Prosser in 1990 to work at the WSU research station in Prosser after receiving her education in viticulture and enology from the famed Geisenheim Institute in Germany. Her family has been in the German wine industry for 400 years. While the winery is gaining an early reputation for German varieties — particularly Riesling and PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM Gewürztraminer — don’t think Freimuth-Wildman doesn’t have a focus on reds. Indeed, the current lineup includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, two red blends and a recently released Tempranillo-Grenache Sunnyside, Wash. blend. The high-end blend is called BY A N D Y P E R D U E Artemisia, which is the Latin name for “sagebrush,” a plant found in ho says Cougars and abundance throughout the Huskies can’t get along? Columbia Valley. At $32, Artemisia is The cross-state rivals do the most expensive wine at Steppe. just fine at Steppe Cellars, our 2009 So far, the wines have caught the Washington Winery to Watch. attention of wine critics regionally. The Yakima Valley winery, The Syrah won a gold last year at the launched in 2005, is co-owned by Capital Wine & Food Fest and a douTom and Susan Garrison (the ble gold at the Seattle Wine Awards. Cougs) and Mike and Gabrielle It also earned our top “Outstanding” Seibel (the Dawgs). Susan and award last summer. The 2006 dry Gabrielle are sisters. Riesling earned an “Excellent” rating “It’s nice to partner with family,” in our judging last year of Northwest Susan Garrison said. “It’s easy to Rieslings, and the 2006 work together.” Perhaps less so on Gewürztraminer received an Apple Cup weekend. “Outstanding.” The 2006 late-harvest Riesling also received an The Garrisons planted Riesling at “Outstanding,” and the 2006 their farm in 1981, and the Seibels Semillon earned an “Excellent.” own a cherry orchard adjacent to The winery is named for the shrub the tasting room, though they live in

-steppe environment that covers much of Eastern Washington, particularly the Columbia Valley where Washington wine country is centered. Unlike a desert, which generally cannot support year-round vegetation, shrub-steppe regions have just enough rainfall to support perennial grasslands and shrubs. “Shrub-steppe surrounds our farmlands,” Garrison said. “We thought that naming the winery after it would bring more awareness to it. I think it’s a neat thing for people to be aware of the natural environment of this area of the state.” The majority of sales are coming through the tasting room, which is open daily from April through November. The winery is five miles off Interstate 82. The tasting room has a picnic area next to the cherry orchard with a view of Mount Adams. Visitors are most likely to encounter one or both of the Garrisons pouring behind the tasting bar, as well as providing educational opportunities in the vineyard. The wines also are distributed throughout the state. In Spokane and the Tri-Cities, they can be found at Yoke’s Fresh Markets. In Seattle, they are at such wine shops as Esquin and McCarthy and Schiering, as well as such restaurants as Wild Ginger, Portage and Ray’s Boathouse. One favorite event they hold during harvest is called “Federweisser und Zwiebelkucken.” It is in October as white wines are fermenting. Visitors are encouraged to try the fermenting wines (the federweisser) alongside finished wines from the prior vintage. They are served with an onion tart (the zwiebelkucken), which is part of the German tradition. “We just want to make good wines and have fun things for people to do when they come to Steppe Cellars,” Garrison said. ı

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Tom and Susan Garrison

Steppe Cellars

Steppe Cellars, 1191 Chaffee Road, Sunnyside, WA 98944, 509-837-8281, steppecellars.com.

34 Ponzi

3/2/09

1:07 PM

AWA R D S

Page 34

oregon winery of the year

Left to right: Luisa Ponzi, winemaker, Michel Ponzi, director of operations, and Maria Ponzi Fogelstrom, director of sales and marketing. PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

Ponzi Vineyards Beaverton BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

n the past few years, some of the Northwest’s most famous wineries successfully transitioned their winemaking duties from one generation to the next. Ponzi Vineyards, however, has been operated by the second generation for 15 years, and the ageold motto of “like father, like son” doesn’t apply to the winemaking. “I often think about how lucky I am that my father made the transition so easy for me,” said Luisa Ponzi, winemaker for Ponzi Vineyards in Beaverton, Ore. “Maybe with a daughter there’s not the competition that a father might have with a son, but my father is a phenomenal person.” Dick and Nancy Ponzi — among Oregon’s wine pioneers — taught their children well. It shows in the 34

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

quality of the wines and their support of the Oregon wine industry, which includes The Dundee Bistro and adjoining Ponzi Wine Bar. As a result, Ponzi Vineyards earned Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 Oregon Winery of the Year. “It’s a beautiful thing. We all came back to the family business, and each of us feel that we’ve got the best job,” Luisa said. “I would not want to go out and sell wine, but my sister, Maria, who has always been the more outgoing and social of us, loves to sell wine. My brother, Michel, a musician at heart, manages the finances and loves the detail of that. I was always the science kid.” In 1993, Luisa returned from France after making history as the first American female to earn a winemaking degree from her small college in Burgundy. At the time, the Willamette Valley winemaking sorority was small, too. “Lynn Penner-Ash was here, and that was about it for women,” she said. In the eyes of Wine Press Northwest, Luisa, 41, makes head-

lines with her wines. The 2006 Dolcetto ranked near the top of our Italian Reds competition. The 2006 Vino Gelato, 2007 Riesling and 2007 Rosato Pinot Noir rosé each received “Outstanding!” ratings and the 2006 Pinot Gris earned an Excellent in double-blind tastings. Two entries scored well in our Pinot Noir competition, and the Reserve Chardonnay remains exemplary. This year, the Ponzi 2007 Arneis was selected by famed chef Alice Waters to be served at her pre-inauguration benefit in Washington, D.C. And while the economic timing was not ideal, the family crushed the 2008 vintage in a new environmentally friendly winery designed by the patriarch. “The old winery was a really nice 10,000-case winery, and we were doing 30,000 cases,” Luisa said. “It was just crazy! I still don’t know how we did it. Here, we can comfortably do 50,000 cases, but in 2008, we only did 27,000 cases. The vintage threw us for a loop with a short crop.” The mother of four, wife of winemaker Eric Hamacher and voracious reader of Kent Haruf and Barbara Kingsolver novels, isn’t tied to tradition, though, remaining a Northwest leader in screwcap enclosures. “I am still frustrated by corks,” she said. “I would love to put the reserves into screwcap, but I’m not completely confident the marketplace is ready for that.” The Ponzi family owns and farms 120 acres of LIVE (low-input viticulture and enology) certified sustainable vineyards, and there are plans for 25 more acres. Luisa wants new wines using aromatic whites Gewürztraminer, Huxelrebe and Muscat, but she may get outvoted. “I feel very lucky every day that I get to work with my family,” she said. “That’s not to say there isn’t any conflict. We are an Italian family, after all.” ı Ponzi Vineyards, 14665 SW Winery Lane, Beaverton, Ore., 97007, 503-628-1227, ponziwines.com.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

35 Reustle

3/2/09

1:09 PM

Page 35

oregon winery to watch

AWA R D S

talks of Noah being the very first vineyard owner, the very first winemaker and the very first drunk!” Noah would — and many judges do — enjoy the wines from this young Umpqua Valley operation, which is why Wine Press Northwest named Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard as its Oregon Winery to Watch for 2009. Reustle 53, and his wife, Gloria, 41, received a number of gold medals in 2008 from wine competitions. The 2006 Pinot Noir earned gold at the Los Angeles International and the West Coast. His 2006 Tempranillo also garnered gold at L.A., the Northwest Wine Summit and an “Outstanding!” from Wine Press Northwest. The 2007 Viognier also earned PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM “Outstanding!” However, Reustle’s production of the Austrian white variety Gruner Veltliner first gained him acclaim, and a gold medal at last year’s West Coast for the 2007 Gruner Veltliner proves the grape will work in the Umpqua Valley. “I was in Austria on a motorcycle tour of the Alps in 2001 and went Roseburg, Ore. into an expensive restaurant,” Reustle BY E R I C D E G E R M A N recalls. “I asked the waiter to bring out what he thought was the best ven a marketing genius might example of Austrian white wine, and scoff at the notion of labeling he brought out a Gruner Veltliner Stephen Reustle’s second (pronounced Velt-LEANER).” career as “divine intervention.” The grape enchanted Reustle, so But the proof is in the bottles he consulted with Southern Oregon from Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard. University climatologist Greg Jones Reustle, in fact, moved his family and began planting. His first commerin 2001 to Roseburg, Ore., to create cial vintage of the variety was 2005. a vineyard and launch a winery after “We were the first in the U.S. to selling his direct marketing company grow it and make it,” Reustle said. in Pennsylvania. “Now I know of at least one other “We have 35 acres planted here, winery in the Willamette Valley that and all the blocks have a Biblical sigdoes it.” nificance,” said Reustle (pronounced The winery opened in April 2006 as Russell). “We named one of with the release of estate fruit from blocks as Noah’s Bloc. Few people the 2004 vintage. Bottlings now know that in the book of Genesis it include Grenache, Merlot, Pinot Gris,

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, with Malbec, Roussanne and Semillon also planted. Production is at 5,000 cases, and guests sample wines inside caves built into a hillside. Reustle called himself a self-taught winemaker, but he credits Australian professor Richard Smart as well as Oregon vintners Joe Dobbes, Kiley Evans, Earl Jones and neighbor Scott Henry for guidance over the years. And the notion of using a Gandhi quote on a cork of a Dobbes wine gave Reustle an idea which led to a sin in the eyes of the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) regarding that inaugural 2004 vintage. “I challenged my Sunday school class to come up with a Bible verse that I could put on my cork that would put wine in the proper light,” Reustle said. A student offered up Ecclesiastes 9:7 — “Drink your wine with a happy heart. God approves of this.” The TTB did not approve. “You are making a therapeutic curative claim with this,” Reustle was told. Problem was he’d sunk the corks in the bottles. He pleaded ignorance and asked for mercy. Word came that he could use up that shipment, but never cite that verse again on cork. “We are allowed to put ‘Ecclesiastes 9:7’ on the cork,” Reustle said. “Our hope is that someone opens the bottle, looks at the cork and says, ‘Who would put Ecclesiastes 9:7 on a cork?’ and then goes to the Bible.” A medical emergency drew Stephen to Christianity several years ago, and the Reustles want to use their wine to spread their message. “We’re looking at this to be the machine to build a school, a seminary and a pastors retreat,” he said. “The first step in that was starting a Christian academy school. And we have men’s Bible study here every Thursday. I supply all the wine and the appetizers, and we study God’s word. It’s just great fellowship.” ı

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Stephen and Gloria Reustle

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, 960 Cal Henry Rd., Roseburg, OR, 97470, 541-459-6060, reustlevineyards.com.

36 kettlevalley.qxd

AWA R D S

3/2/09

1:12 PM

Page 36

british columbia winery of the year

— and began making wine together soon after. By 1986, the hobby was a serious obsession, so much so that the pair purchased property on the Naramata Bench near Penticton and planted vines the following year. In 1988, they bought another parcel and planted it, then acquired a third piece of land in 1990. And they still had no intention of making it a commercial operation. What did the wives think of this? “I didn’t dare ask!” Ferguson said with a laugh. In fact, he still hasn’t asked his wife, Colleen. Watts, a geologist, and Bob Ferguson, left, Ferguson, an accountant, and Tim Watts, codecided to start their winery winemakers and with the 1992 vintage and brothers-in-law. opened their doors in 1996. PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM The operation is named after the Kettle Valley Railway, which operated in the region from 1915 to 1989. Today, Kettle Valley produces about 10,000 cases of wine, twothirds of which are red. Their vineyard operations have grown to 40 acres, primarily on the Naramata Bench, and Watts and Ferguson conNaramata, B.C. tract for another 35 acres. They see the Naramata Bench as a BY A N D Y P E R D U E special place to grow wine grapes. he wine world is filled with lots The soil is heavy glacial silt, so it of stories about wineries that retains a fair amount of moisture and got their start when a hobby makes controlling water easier. went out of control. However, few Okanagan Lake moderates temperahome winemakers are so obsessed tures throughout the year. In the that they buy and plant their own summer and fall, temperatures are vineyards. Even fewer — and likely slightly cooler than the area around none — plant three vineyards just to Oliver to the south. And this winter, get the grapes they want to feed when temperatures reached as low as their hobby. 27 below 0 Celsius elsewhere, they But that’s how Bob Ferguson and dropped to only 18 below at Kettle Tim Watts launched Kettle Valley Valley. The vineyards also receive Winery, our 2009 British Columbia more afternoon sunshine than those Winery of the Year. on the west side of the valley. Ferguson and Watts met in 1980 in Watts oversees the vineyard operaVancouver when they began dating tions, and the two make the wines two sisters — they’re all in-laws now together. Ferguson handles the busi-

Kettle Valley Winery

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

ness side of the winery, including the distribution. Colleen oversees the tasting room and much of the paperwork. They produce 29 different wines — “Far too many,” Ferguson laments. Most are crafted in extremely small lots, making the lucky few who acquire the wines feel fortunate indeed. For example, a Cab from the estate Crest Vineyard often will produce just a barrel of wine, resulting in about 25 cases. “We’re not blending a lot together,” Ferguson said. “Virtually everything we do is in small lots. We keep each vineyard and variety separate throughout the process and try to release wine as vineyard-designated products. It’s a lot of fun to work that way.” Selling the wine is never a problem, either, as the winery has gained near-cult status in British Columbia and beyond. The vast majority of the wine is sold to restaurants, primarily in Vancouver, Whistler, Tofino and Victoria. When Kettle Valley started in 1992, only two other wineries were operating on the Naramata Bench and fewer than 20 in the entire province. Today, 22 wineries are on the Bench and nearly 200 are operating in B.C., primarily in the Okanagan Valley. “I would never have dreamed this would have happened,” Ferguson said. “In the first few years we were in business, we were pioneers. It hadn’t been proven you could grow grapes here. Now, more people are coming because it’s been proven.” And with land prices today, there would be little chance of someone starting a winery the way the boys at Kettle Valley did. An undeveloped 5-acre site on the bench likely would run $1.25 million today. “In today’s market, it would be very, very difficult,” Ferguson said. “We were fortunate enough to start small and get larger.” ı Kettle Valley Winery, 2988 Hayman Road, Naramata, B.C, V0H 1N, 250-4965898, kettlevalleywinery.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

37 churchandstate

3/2/09

1:17 PM

Page 37

british columbia winery to watch

AWA R D S

maker, helping convince Bill Dyer in the spring of 2005 to return to British Columbia to take on a new project. After meeting Pullen in Victoria, Dyer recalls, “I came back with the feeling we could really work together.” Dyer’s focus by then had turned solely to California’s Napa and Sonoma valleys, although he knew the Okanagan Valley well because he had begun working with Burrowing Owl Estate Winery in 1997. Thus he brought to Church and State expertise from two regions. In Napa, he and wife Dawnine operate their own winery, Dyer Vineyard, focused solely on Cabernet Sauvignon, a singular passion that dates to the 1970s when he first started working with grapes PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM from the Diamond Mountain District. Meanwhile, Pullen discovered he liked what he saw in the Okanagan. “For what I wanted, the OliverOsoyoos area was where I wanted to be,” he decided. He has since bought Brentwood Bay, B.C. about 70 acres of vineyard, 55 acres BY K E N R O B E RT S O N of it on the Black Sage Bench. And he’s now building a second hen Kim Pullen bought the winery in Oliver at Coyote Bowl former Victoria Estate Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. Winery in 2004, much of He has sized the facility, which is the former tax lawyer’s new busidue to open this summer, to handle ness seemed in good order. the 30 acres of mostly red wine First, he decided to rechristen it grapes at Coyote Bowl. Church and State Wines. Then, he The tasting room will feature a thought, he would get to work to long sit-down tasting bar with an allmove out the old wines — about glass wall separating it from the bar20,000 cases — and turn to focusing rel room. The view, he said, is breathon high quality wines worthy of the taking, with the bowl, which perches new name. on the edge of the bench, opening to Most of the wine acquired with a vista that includes a pasture about the winery “was pretty dreadful,” he 300 hundred feet below. said, so he cut the remaining invenAlong with the new winery, Pullen tory to about 3,000 cases. has rebuilt ties and trust with the growers. One key innovation, he The discipline required to dump all said, was moving from paying for his that wine and start anew was among fruit by the ton to paying by the acre. the things that landed a new wine-

“Each year we get a little more control in the winery and in the vineyard,” Pullen said. From Church and State’s 11 acres at the Victoria winery and 70 acres in the Okanagan, plus 40 acres of grapes from growers who stayed with Pullen, each fall’s harvest brings enough grapes to produce about 14,000 cases of wine. “It feels like we’re slowly gaining ground,” Dyer said. They also found a vineyard east of Lake Osoyoos that they believe can produce excellent Cabs. Dyer said the 2005 Cab, due out this spring, will set a new standard. “I can say for the first time, ‘It’s good enough to compare to any other Cab,’” he said. The two men’s results with both red and white wines are hard to dispute. In 2008, Church and State won 38 awards from competitions in France, the United Kingdom, California, British Columbia, Oregon and Washington. Medals came from reds and whites and from three vintages — 2005, 2006 and 2007. The 2006 Church Mouse Chardonnay won a platinum award in Wine Press Northwest’s annual competition for the Northwest’s gold-medal-winning wines, making it the magazine’s top-rated Chardonnay. Among the $23 (CDN) wine’s other awards was a double gold “Best in Class” ranking from the Tasters Guild in California. The 2005 Quintessential, a Bordeaux blend ($50 CDN), matched those awards at the California competition and recently earned the second highest rating of Bordeaux reds at the B.C. Icons tasting. The head and the heart clearly are coming into balance — with Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Bordeaux blend. ı

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Church & State Wines

Church & State Wines, 1445 Benvenuto Ave., Brentwood Bay, B.C. V8M 1J5, 250652-2671, churchandstatewines.com.

38 Bitner

3/2/09

1:14 PM

AWA R D S

Page 38

idaho winery of the year

Chardonnay?’ ” Bitner replied. “I had no clue about wine grapes back then.” Three decades later, he and his wife, Mary, can pour a glass of estate reserve Chardonnay to toast Bitner Vineyards as Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 Idaho Winery of the Year. “I’m trying to retire as a bee biologist and just devote all my time to the winery with my wife,” Bitner said. “We’re having a blast with it. After 28 years, the wine indusRon and Mary try in Idaho is finally Bitner have catching on, so it’s several more exciting for me. It’s a projects being fun time.” supervised by Jimmie, right. It’s also rewarding. The 2005 Cabernet PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM Sauvignon grabbed a gold medal at the 2008 Idaho Wine Festival. Four of his wines returned medals in the 2008 Northwest Wine Summit. His 2006 Riesling and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz received Caldwell silver, while his 2005 Reserve Chardonnay and 2005 Reserve BY E R I C D E G E R M A N Cabernet Sauvignon picked up bronze. The same Riesling and Cabon Bitner admits wine was the Shiraz won silver medals at the IWF furthest thing from his mind and a silver and gold, respectively, at when he purchased the the VinoChallenge in Atlanta. The acreage in 1980 for his home near 2006 Late Harvest Riesling took douCaldwell, Idaho. ble gold and best dessert wine at the “Bill Broach, the first winemaker Florida State Competition. for Ste. Chapelle, built his house “We’ve been most blessed to have right below us,” Bitner recalls. “I Greg Koenig as our winemaker since bought the property for the view of 1995,” Bitner said. the Snake River, and I was scratching Bitner, 62, owns 15 acres in his my head wondering what I was native Canyon County, most of it going to do with this steep hillside. planted in Riesling and Chardonnay “It was sagebrush and weeds then, with the rest in Cabernet Sauvignon, and Bill says to me, ‘Ron, you’ve got Merlot, Petit Verdot and Syrah, a world-class site for Chardonnay which he refers to as Shiraz. there.’ “I spend a lot of time in Australia “ ‘That’s cool, Bill, but what’s

Bitner Vineyards

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

researching bees,” he said with a smile. That ended up being about six months each year, but whenever Bitner returned to Idaho, he found himself busy as a bee in the Idaho wine industry. He spent eight years on the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission, two of those as acting director. Bitner was instrumental on the petition that established the Snake River Valley American Viticultural Area in 2007. “There’s been a lot of excitement with that,” he said. “We’ve had three Washington wineries and one Michigan winery that have shown interest in my fruit. That AVA has made all the difference.” Now, he’s part of Canyon County’s Rural Economic Task Force. “We got the first agriculture scenic bypass established in the state, and there will finally be winery tourism signs along the way,” he said. “There were two more new wineries opening out here this year.” Bitner Vineyards opened its tasting room in 2007. It has the vibe of a wine bar, occasionally showing classic movies and serving dinner. “A lot of what we’re doing here I have to give credit to old friends Jerry and John Bookwalter for what they’ve done in the Tri-Cities,” Bitner said. There are two other projects the Bitners are working on. Mary is busy converting their downstairs into a bed & breakfast. And last year, Ron attended a workshop in Eugene, Ore., that inspired him to plant 200 hazelnut and white oak trees infused with French black truffle spores. “I came back convinced that’s the next crop for the Sunnyslope of Idaho,” Bitner said. “In five or six years, hopefully we’ll be digging truffles to serve on our deck with our great Chardonnay.” ı Bitner Vineyards, 16645 Plum Rd., Caldwell, Idaho, 83605, 208-899-7648, bitnervineyards.com.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

39 Cinder

3/2/09

1:19 PM

Page 39

idaho winery to watch

AWA R D S

honor of the volcanic soil found throughout much of the Snake River Valley, but she learned her craft from some of Washington’s top vintners. In 2001, she began to work her way up the ranks at Chateau Ste. Michelle, eventually becoming assistant red winemaker at its Canoe Ridge facility near Paterson. Her list of mentors includes Bob Bertheau, Ron Bunnell and Kendall Mix, and she’s proved to be a quick study. Cinder’s first release included a 2007 Viognier that won gold at the 2008 Idaho Wine Festival. Her 2006 Syrah particularly grabbed the attention of Wine Press PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM Northwest, earning our top rating of “Outstanding!” in a double-blind tasting. The Viognier received an Excellent. She also produces a crisp and tasty rosé. Boise “This was all kind of by accident,” Krause said. “When I was going to BY E R I C D E G E R M A N school at Washington State elanie Krause and the debut University, I didn’t know that you of her Cinder project turned could earn a living by making wine. some Rhône varieties into My then-boyfriend, now husband gold dust last year. (Joe Schnerr), was living in the midIt made for quite a homecoming dle of the Washington wine region, for the Boise native and an easy and I had a background in agriculchoice as Wine Press Northwest’s ture, so I moved to the Tri-Cities and Idaho Winery to Watch in 2009. started working for Chateau Ste. Michelle in viticulture.” “I’d been snooping around the Idaho vineyards as I had been learnWithin two years, she’d moved ing how to make wines in into the winery. By 2006, Joe landed Washington, and I’m really interesta chemistry position in Boise with ed in the terroir here,” Krause said. Micron, so Krause followed and “I think we’ve got great potential to began consulting for Idaho wineries make awesome wines, so I wanted and establishing relationships with to move back home and focus on some of the state’s top vineyards. quality here in Idaho.” “A new one that I’m really excited about is Rocky Fence Vineyard in Krause, 32, named the winery in

Emmett,” she said. “It’s up the Payette River with a beautiful location, and the grower is farming it organically. I’m hoping one day to make a single-vineyard Viognier that’s organically grown.” Down the line also are plans for Malbec, Mourvèdre and Tempranillo, but this spring, Cinder rolled out a 2008 Chardonnay and a 2007 CabMerlot. The 63%/37% red blend taps into four sites — Eckerts, Fraser, Skyline and Williamson. Krause contracts with seven vineyards, and she puts both of her degrees from WSU, biology and Spanish, into the equation. “Sometimes, it’s hard to decide which degree is more useful,” she said. A sense of adventure also helps to explain why Krause, a former competitive skier, cyclist and triathlete, enjoys being back in the Treasure Valley. “There are so many great outdoor sports here,” she said. “My husband and I snowboard and ski in the winter and mountain bike in the summer. There’s also fabulous kayaking and other sports we have yet to dabble in.” Her winery is not in wine country, but near downtown Boise in an industrial warehouse that’s been transformed into the Urban Winemakers Cooperative. “There are two other start-up winemakers I know quite well, so the three of us went in together on this,” Krause said. “Splitting up the cost will improve the quality of what we do, allow us to buy better equipment and help us all out.” At this stage, production of Cinder is around 1,000 cases. “The ultimate size is hard to say. I imagine we’ll stay fairly small — unless I decide to conquer the world,” Krause said with a smile. If the first year is any indication, she’s well on her way. ı

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Melanie Krause and Joe Schnerr

Cinder Wines

Cinder Wines, Urban Winemakers Cooperative, 107 E. 44th St., Garden City, Idaho, 83714, 208-407-4347, cinderwines.com.

40 ... Label ads

3/2/09

12:24 PM

Page 40

WINE COUNTRY DESTINATIONS

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

10:27 AM

Page 41

WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY Join us for our Bimonthly Guest Chef Dinners 26421 NW Hwy 47, Gaston, OR 97119

503-662-4509 Open by appt. & holiday weekends www.adeawine.com

16425 SE Webfoot Rd., Dayton, Oregon (503) 868-7359 Open for tasting 12-5 weekends & by appt. weekdays

“Consistently delicious wine!” Wine Press NW 26830 NW Olson Rd, Gaston, OR 97119 Open April thru October: Noon to 5:00 Daily Nov. thru March: Noon to 5 Thurs. thru Sun.

503-662-4545 • www.kramerwine.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

10:32 AM

Page 42

WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

10:37 AM

Page 43

WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

44-47 wine economy

3/2/09

1:33 PM

Consumers may still be lining up for free samples at wineries but they are cutting back when it comes to actually buying wine. Wine drinkers are purchasing fewer bottles and selecting lessexpensive wines.

Page 44

44-47 wine economy

3/2/09

1:42 PM

Page 45

F E AT U R E

ECONOMY:

Buddy, can you spare a wine? Northwest wine industry feels the squeeze in tight economy BY INGRID STEGEMOELLER

pening a favorite bottle of wine in the company of friends isn’t an experience many Northwest wine lovers are giving up as concerns about the struggling economy continue to mount. But consumers are increasingly looking for the best values, and some in the industry are starting to feel the pinch of the recession in the United States and Canada. B A D N E W S F O R R E S TA U R A N T S

“WHAT WE’VE SEEN IS A SHIFT IN CONSUMING habits from on-premise to retail,” said Harry McWatters, industry veteran and president of Vintage Consulting Group in Penticton, British Columbia. “People are dining out less frequently or buying less wine when they dine out. People are still drinking wine, but they’re doing it at home. That’s been a pretty radical shift. It’s having a huge negative impact on restaurants.” BARGAIN HUNTING

MANY IN THE INDUSTRY ECHOED MCWATTERS’ observations. “People are trading down,” said Pat Spangler, owner and winemaker for Spangler Vineyards in Roseburg, Ore. “Volumes are not off much, if any. People are just buying less expensive stuff.” It’s a little early to tell just how much the recession will affect the growing Washington wine industry, said Keith Love, vice president for communications and corporate affairs for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

IMAGES BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

The company’s Red Diamond brand is considered a barometer for sales, and the $10-range wine that’s sold nationwide was doing well through January, Love said. “We know there’s going to be an impact ... but we think the state industry will ride it out,” he said. He agreed with McWatters and Spangler that wine sales at restaurants are a major concern. “I think that’s going to be where you see the big drop off,” Love said. MAKING DO WITH LESS

AT MONTEROSSO’S, AN ITALIAN RESTAURANT IN Richland, Wash., owner Aaron Burks has seen his wine sales slow about 10 percent from 2007 to 2008 because consumers are eating out less, especially at nicer restaurants. “I would say that sales in general are more than a challenge in these economic times,” he said. Visitors to L’Ecole No. 41 near Walla Walla, Wash., often are downsizing their purchases, said Marty Clubb, owner and managing winemaker. “We’ve definitely seen a slowdown in the last four months,” Clubb said at the recent meeting of the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers. People are buying bottles instead of cases. Still, retail sales are holding on and Washington wines continue to be wellpriced compared with those from other regions, Clubb said. One problem Spangler foresees is that many wineries are discounting their product to get it off their shelves. But

“What we’ve seen is a shift in consuming habits from on-premise to retail.” — HARRY

MCWATTERS

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

44-47 wine economy

3/2/09

F E AT U R E

1:42 PM

Page 46

economy once they drop their prices, he’s concerned about getting them up again. “The lower end is doing better, and a lot of people are discounting wine,” said Spangler, who’s also president of the board of directors of the Southern Oregon Winery Association. “But I don’t know how you’re going to get your prices back up. Once the price goes down, it seems to me you’re shooting yourself in the foot doing that.” SALES UP FOR LESS EXPENSIVE WINES

“We’ve definitely seen a slowdown in the last four months.” — MARTY

CLUBB

“I know for a fact that you’re going to see more and more second labels coming on the market.” — JOE

DOBBES

WINE DRINKERS’ ATTRACTION TO LESS EXPENsive wines could be a boon for Wine by Joe, said Joe Dobbes, owner/winemaker of the Oregon wine priced in the $12 to $20 range. “Those sales are doing very well,” he said. Dobbes, also the winemaker for Dobbes Family Estate in Dundee, Ore., said even though distributor sales were up about 10 percent in 2008, the winery is watching the bottom line. “We’re spending as much time as we can out in the marketplace,” he said. “I know for a fact that you’re going to see more and more second labels coming on the market.” He’s noticed a fair amount of surplus inventory on the market, particularly Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. “We’re paying a lot of attention to inventories,” Dobbes said. B.C. KEEPS GROWING

JAY DRYSDALE, AN INDUSTRY CONSULTANT WHO works mainly in British Columbia, also has observed more inventory at wineries. But he equated it to normal industry growing pains as wineries work on increasing their production. He’s looking forward to major upcoming events in Vancouver, such as the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival in March and the 2010 Winter Olympics to bolster the regional wine industry. “Everybody’s still in a ramping-up stage. We’re still seeing new vines going into the ground and new wineries opening up,” Drysdale said. The upcoming events “will put a unique spotlight on the

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

region, and I think we would be feeling more of an economic crunch if we didn’t have those focuses coming.” IDAHO IN A GOOD POSITION

THE IDAHO WINE INDUSTRY ALSO CONTINUES TO grow, said Brad Pintler, chair of the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission. The state has 34 wineries with at least three more scheduled to open this year, he said. “If people are looking at more affordable-type wines, that may even be a benefit for Idaho,” said Pintler, noting the affordability of the state’s wines. Grape gluts don’t seem to be a problem, either, he said. “I haven’t heard of any of the vineyard growers expressing concerns.” He also sees tremendous potential for wine tourism to grow as more people learn about Idaho’s wine offerings. The commission is working on a five-year strategic plan and is presenting a new festival, Savor Idaho, during Father’s Day weekend. “ F L AT I S T H E N E W U P ”

BUT CHANGING CONSUMER TRENDS ARE APPARent to those outside wineries, too. Eric Denton, a Tri-Cities-based sales representative for Spokane’s Vehrs Inc., a wine distributing company, also noticed consumers’ recent penchant for less expensive wines. “It seems like people are gravitating toward more affordable wine,” Denton said. “Instead of buying the $20 bottle, they’re buying the $15 bottle. People are taking a step down, it seems.” Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine Commission, agreed, though she also said it’s too early to see the full effect. She recently attended a national wine industry meeting and the trend seemed to be that “flat is the new up” — sales that remain even with prior years will be viewed positively, Pollard said. CREDIT CRUNCH

AND AS WINERIES LOOK TO CUT COSTS, MANY

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44-47 wine economy

3/2/09

1:42 PM

Page 47

economy

F E AT U R E

There may still be money on the vine. Brad Pintler says, “I haven’t heard of any of the vineyard growers expressing concerns.”

“We’ve still seeing new vines going into the ground and new wineries opening up.” — JAY

also are having a hard time getting financing for projects because of continuing tight credit conditions. “We’re finding that lenders are being a lot tougher on projects. I’m doing consulting for a number of wineries and I’m seeing banks … really sending a strong message that they’re not interested in taking on new projects,” McWatters said. W H AT D O E S N ’ T K I L L Y O U . . .

BUT HE’S HAD MORE INQUIRIES FOR CONSULTING assistance than he expected, and he predicts the industry will emerge in a healthier state. And that might just be a silver lining of the plunging economy. “Anytime you get a stress like this, it really separates the good wine from the mediocre range wine,” Spangler said. “If you could take the bottom 20 percent off, the weakest performers, that’s going to

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

make the industry stronger overall.” That’s not to say only the weakest will be weeded out by economic difficulties, he added. “I think in western Canada we thought we were a little insulated from the world economy. We’re not going to suffer as badly, but we are feeling the pain,” McWatters said. Wineries have to be conscious of the competition and make sure they’re meeting consumer demands. “Growing grapes in British Columbia is not an inexpensive exercise. When a customer pays fair market value, it better be delivering everything they expect,” McWatters said. ı

DRYSDALE

“If people are looking for more affordable wines, that may even be a benefit for Idaho.” — BRAD

PINTLER

INGRID STEGEMOELLER covers the wine industr y for the Tri-City Herald and is a frequent contributor to Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountr yCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

10:41 AM

Page 48

WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

10:47 AM

Page 49

WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T â&#x20AC;˘ S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

10:51 AM

Page 50

WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

A Welcome Taste of Spring! We look forward to your visit

Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Releases:

Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM

'06 WWV “Vineyard Select” Cabernet Sauvignon ‘07 WWV Merlot ‘07 CV Cabernet Franc ‘07 CV Sangiovese

33 West Birch Street • Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463

Tamarack Cellars 700 C St. Walla Walla, WA (at the airport)

Hours: Mar.-Nov. Thurs. & Fri. 12-4 Sat. & Sun. 10-4

509-526-3533 Current Releases: • 2007 Chardonnay • 2007 Firehouse Red • 2006 Merlot • 2006 Cabernet Franc • 2005 Sauvignon • 2005 Syrah www.tamarackcellars.com

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Est. 1988 Friday 1 - 5 pm • Saturday 12 - 5 pm Sunday 1 - 4 pm

840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both. Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

509-527-8400

509-526-0676

www.fivestarcellars.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

3/4/09

4:08 PM

Page 51

WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

52-55 Spiral Cellars

3/2/09

1:45 PM

Page 52

Morleigh waits at the top of the stairs for a kiss.

WINE BOTTLES BENEATH YOUR FEET SPIRAL CELLAR PROVIDES UNOBTRUSIVE, I N N O VAT I V E O P T I O N T O W I N E S T O R A G E B Y INGRID STEGEMOELLER

P H O T O S B Y JACKIE JOHNSTON

alk into the Seattle home of Rob Dent and Naomi Ruiz and if you don’t look carefully at the floor in the foyer, you might miss the trapdoor under your feet. 52

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Though the lightly colored wooden door discreetly blends in, the view beneath it would impress any wine aficionado: A spiral staircase leading 9 feet underground, surrounded by rows of shelves

designed to hold 1,600 bottles of wine. About the only downside is that their Boston terrier refuses to follow them into cellar. “But Morleigh will catch us on the

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

52-55 Spiral Cellars

3/2/09

1:49 PM

way up to give us a kiss,” Ruiz said. Take a few steps into the cellar and you’ll be waist-level with the floor. A few more steps down and your eyes will meet with some of the wines the married couple drinks

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Page 53

most regularly, such as the Chateau Ste. Michelle/Dr. Loosen 2006 Eroica Riesling from the Columbia Valley. When you reach the bottom, you’ll find yourself immersed in the quiet majesty of the wines that the

couple has amassed from throughout the world. The cellar runs 53 degrees to 63 degrees Fahrenheit, and the hushed atmosphere allows for contemplation.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

52-55 Spiral Cellars

F E AT U R E

3/4/09

4:21 PM

Page 54

spiral cellars

Dent and Ruiz had their Spiral Cellar installed a couple of years ago. They grew tired of wine bottles sitting in too-warm temperatures and spilling out of a too-small closet in their dining room. They looked at building an outside crawl space, as well as off-site storage. Neither option seemed particularly convenient for daily trips. That’s when they discovered the Spiral Cellar. The architectural showpiece is designed to use the earth around it to maintain a consistent temperature as well as provide a unique and attractive way to display wine. “It’s an appealing feature of the house,” Ruiz said. And it has allowed them to rapidly double their inventory. Theirs is one of the six Spiral Cellars in the United States, all in the Northwest. Scott Dennis, owner of a Spiral Cellar as well as the U.S. distributor of the cellars, said the United Kingdombased company plans to expand across the country in the coming years. Eight cellars were expected to be finished in the United States by the end of 2008. Dennis, who lives in Redmond, Wash., discovered the cellars on a trip to France a few years ago. He was so impressed that he had one installed and continued to recruit Spiral Cellars into the U.S. market. A cellar can be built among four sizes, ranging from six to nine feet deep, and can store between 1,000 and 1,600 standard bottles. The original cellar was designed in 1978 by Frenchman Georges Harnois. Since then, more than 20,000 Spiral Cellars have been built in Europe, most of them in France. “We had always planned to expand into the U.S., but Scott convinced us Washington state was the perfect place to get started,” Spiral Cellars director Lucy Hargreaves wrote in an e-mail, adding that the state’s “burgeoning wine industry” was the 54

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Specially curved concrete blocks line the walls of the spiral cellar, giving bottles sturdy storage.

major factor driving the decision. Hargreaves said the company plans to launch a franchise network in key wine states, such as California and New York. Expansion to other continents is also on the table after Spiral Cellars becomes more rooted in the U.S. market.

A new model of the cellar — the white Spiral Cellar — made its U.S. debut on Bainbridge Island, Dennis said. The white cellar features taller bins, which means the 9-foot version can hold nearly 1,900 bottles. Steps into the newer cellar are

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

52-55 Spiral Cellars

3/2/09

1:57 PM

Page 55

spiral cellars

Now you see it...

...now you don’t.

SPIR AL CELLARS C O N TA C T I N F O

16625 Redmond Way, Suite M Redmond, WA 98052 800-598-7530 spiralcellars.com/us wider, and the white interior creates a luminous feel. Optional LED lights on the stairs and ringing the bottom of the cellar create a stylistic touch, especially with a glass trapdoor. Several different kinds of trapdoors are an option for both cellars,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

including wooden ones that blend in with the floor or that can be covered easily with a rug. Glass allows the cellar and its contents to be admired from above. A variety of stair coverings also are available, such as the sisal matting that Dent and Ruiz chose.

F E AT U R E

Cellars costs anywhere from $32,000 to $50,000, depending on the bells and whistles you decide to add, Dennis said. The door opened for Dennis and his wife, Kathy, when they sought something other than their coat closet for wine storage. “We didn’t want to get really good wine until we had a place to put it,” he said. That meant a spot that wasn’t blocked by the vacuum cleaner, and one that didn’t reach saunalike temperatures in the summer. Now, they enter their Spiral Cellar via their living room floor. “It was perfect. We’re using unused space,” Scott Dennis said. Plus, it’s a “fun” addition to the house, both to use daily and show to friends. Both couples described the installation as “low impact,” taking less than two weeks. Because the cellars are designed with a special waterproof liner, they can be installed in the ground floor of almost any home without being affected by the water table. The underground location is paramount so there’s only about a 10-degree variation during the course of the year. “The key is that it doesn’t change rapidly,” he said. And transforming a room into a chilled cellar is equivalent to building a large, energy-consuming refrigerator. “That was a big consideration for us,” Dent said. Completion of the Spiral Cellar prompted celebration, and both couples said they enjoyed having a “showing party” for family and friends. ı INGRID STEGEMOELLER covers the wine industr y

for the Tri-City Herald and is a frequent contributor to Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountr yCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:01 AM

Page 56

WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER

Visit our winery overlooking the Columbia! 3400 10th St. SE, East Wenatchee, WA 98802

509-886-4596 Open Thurs., Fri., & Sat. 12-5 & holiday weekends Tours by appointment www.martinscottwinery.com chris.scott@martinscottwinery.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection. Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA

509-548-1213

509-662-5013

www.viscontis.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:05 AM

Page 57

WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

3/4/09

4:28 PM

Page 58

WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:16 AM

LAKE CHELAN

Page 59

WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA VALLEY

Join us for Spring Barrel Tasting on April 24, 25 and 26th. Tasting Room Daily 10am - 6pm I-82 Exit at Zillah (509) 829-6810 www.claarcellars.com

Try our new release Busty Blush Rosé

Hyatt Vineyards 2020 Gilbert Rd., Zillah, WA 98953

509829-6333 Fax: 509-829-6433

Open daily 11 a.m.5 p.m. www.hyattvineyards.com

Award-Winning Wines Tasting Room open: Daily 10 am - 5 pm 530 Gurley Rd., Granger, WA 98932

1-866-EATON HILL W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/2/09

2:01 PM

Jessica Munnell, a Washington winemaker formerly with Chateau Ste. Michelle, sniffs a wine during the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bordeaux gemsâ&#x20AC;? blind judging.

Page 60

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/2/09

2:03 PM

Page 61

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Bordeaux gems Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère are undiscovered treasures of the Pacific Nor thwest BY ANDY PERDUE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

abernet Sauvignon and Merlot grab a lot of the headlines with red wine lovers, while four other Bordeaux varieties often act as little more than backup singers to these two stars. In recent years, however, these four hidden Bordeaux gems have begun to live in the spotlight with winemakers willing to experiment. These gems are Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère. For this tasting, we asked Northwest winemakers to submit their versions of these varieties. We received an astonishing 88 wines: 45 Cab Francs, 27 Malbecs, 13 Petit Verdots and three Carménères. All four regions of the Pacific Northwest were represented — and all four had at least one wine amid those receiving our top “Outstanding” rating. As you will see in the results of our judging, three wineries work extremely well with these grapes: ı Seven Hills Winery in Walla Walla, Wash., earned an “Outstanding” rating for each of its three entries: Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère. ı Barnard Griffin in Richland, Wash., not only had the top wine of the competition, a Malbec, but it also earned an “Outstanding” for its Petit Verdot. ı Northstar in Walla Walla, best known for its Merlot, received top ratings for its Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Wine lovers looking to acquire any of these wines should begin with the wineries or their favorite wine merchants, as most of these bottlings are made in minuscule amounts.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Simply put, these gems have nothing more than niche commercial appeal and, thus, little distribution beyond tasting rooms. Our hats go off to any restaurants carrying selections of these wines. Our judging panel included Jessica Munnell, a Washington winemaker formerly with Chateau Ste. Michelle; Kendall Mix, winemaker for Washington Vintners in Walla Walla; Bob Woehler, longtime Northwest wine writer and Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor; Coke Roth, an international wine judge and Red Mountain grape grower; and Paul Sinclair, a longtime member of the Wine Press Northwest tasting panel. Here are the results:

OUTSTANDING Barnard Griffin $35 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley Our 2006 Northwest Winery of the Year continues to prove its superiority with a variety of grapes. Rob Griffin’s Malbec is a classic, as one judge described it as capturing the best of the Argentinian style. It reveals aromas of minerals, red cherries and coffee, followed by flavors of bright red fruit balanced with supple tannins and bright acidity. It should pair well with aged beef or souvlaki. (235 cases, 13.4% alc.)

W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. CDN: Canadian dollars.

Barrister Winery $24 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Cab Francs from this Spokane winery are as good as money in the bank, as this boutique producer operated by two attorneys has earned one top award after another. This vintage is another great one. It opens with aromas of spices, coffee, sweet herbs and blueberries, followed by round, rich flavors of blackberries, herbs and vanilla creaminess. Its balanced tannins are big and sweet. (947 cases, 14.3% alc.) Northstar Winery $40 2006 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley Best known for its Merlot, this Walla Walla winery also produces small amounts of other varieties, including this luscious Cab Franc. Winemaker David “Merf ” Merfeld has crafted a wine with aromas of black cherries and leather, followed by deep flavors of blackberries, chocolate and spices. Its velvety tannins are seamless and elegant through the impressive finish. (112 cases, 14.8% alc.) Seven Hills Winery $32 2006 McClellan Estate Vineyard Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley Casey and Vicky McClellan founded this winery in 1988, making it one of the Walla Walla Valley’s oldest producers. This Petit Verdot from estate fruit is a powerful yet suave wine with aromas of black pepper and blackberries, followed by sweet, bursting flavors of black fruit backed with round tannins and ample acidity. Pair with grilled meats. (70 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Tamarack Cellars $28 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Ron Coleman has been impressing us with his suave and powerful red wines since his inaugural vintage in 1997. This Cab Franc is complex and classy, thanks to aromas of black cherries, blackberries and shoe leather with a hint of smokiness. On the palate are full flavors of black fruit, a rich entry and midpalate and sweet oak on the finish. (554 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Pend d’Oreille Winery $22 2005 Cabernet Franc, Washington We’ve come to expect nothing short of greatness from Stephen Meyer and his Idaho Panhandle winery. This Cab Franc uses grapes from Weinbau Vineyard on Washington’s Wahluke Slope, and it’s a beauty. It reveals aromas and flavors of dark berries with underlying spices. It’s an elegant wine with modest tannins and youthfully approachable fruit. (199 cases, 14.3% alc.)

William Church Winery $30 2006 Connie’s Vintage Malbec, Wahluke Slope In just its second vintage, this Woodinville, Wash., winery has served up a stunning red. Rod and Leslie Balsley used grapes from Wahluke Slope Vineyard, then aged this Malbec in French oak for 14 months. It is a complex wine with aromas of black cherries, spices and eucalyptus, followed by flavors of blackberries, coffee, caramel and sweet oak, giving way to a rich, deep finish. (83 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Barnard Griffin $35 2006 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley This limitedproduction wine is available primarily through Barnard Griffin’s Richland, Wash., tasting room. It is a big wine, yet its ample tannins are somewhat restrained and well balanced. This flavorful red opens with aromas of big, juicy berries, a hint of mint and notes of vanilla, followed by flavors of black cherries and plums with a sensual mouth feel. (192 cases, 13.9% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/2/09

2:04 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 62

bordeaux gems

Kestrel Vintners $40 2005 Winemaker Select Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley Winemaker Flint Nelson crafted a gorgeous Cab Franc from Olsen Vineyard near Benton City, Wash. It’s an elegant wine with aromas of leather, sweet oak, black cherries and a hint of spice, followed by sexy flavors of blackberries and leather. Delicate tannins give this youthful approachability. Pair with roasted pork loin with garlic and rosemary (get the recipe from kestrelwines.com). (200 cases, 13.9% alc.) Seven Hills Winery $28 2006 Carménère, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Casey McClellan crafted the top Carménère of our competition. This extremely rare grape seems to have found a home in the Walla Walla Valley, and the grapes for this wine came from Minnick Hills and Morrison vineyards. It’s also McClellan’s first release of this variety. It opens with aromas of Rainier cherries and modest oak, followed by rich, complex, multi-dimensional flavors of bright cherries. (100 cases, 13.7% alc.) Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $33 CDN 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley This winery just north of the U.S. border is perhaps best known for its Cabernet Franc, so it’s no surprise that it showed so well in our judging. This red flashes inviting aromas of milk chocolate, cherries, raspberries and black olives, followed by delightful, fruitdriven flavors of blueberries, raspberries and black tea. (1,598 cases, 14.5% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Wapato Point Cellars $26 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley This winery along the north shore of Lake Chelan has crafted a Malbec using grapes from Verhey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. This opens with aromas of minerals, chocolate, dark berries and spices, followed by smooth flavors of black fruit, moist earth and dark chocolate. It was aged 18 months in Hungarian oak, which adds underlying spicinessness. (198 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Walla Walla winery has a well-earned reputation for great wines and a great sense of humor. You will have fun drinking this Cab Franc, which is beautifully made and reveals aromas of Rainier cherries and a faint juniper character, followed by classy flavors of black cherries. It’s a tremendous food wine, and we’d suggest pairing it with pork topped with a fruit compote or even barbecued salmon. (125 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Northstar Winery $40 2006 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley This top-end Walla Walla winery crafted this rare Petit Verdot using fruit from StoneTree Vineyard on Washington’s Wahluke Slope, then aged it in 100% French oak. The result is a suave wine with aromas of black fruit, licorice, tar and tobacco, followed by smooth flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and sweet oak. (112 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Seven Hills Winery $28 2006 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Casey McClellan hit the trifecta with this wine, the third to earn our top rating. This Malbec uses grapes from three Walla Walla Valley vineyards: Windrow, Minnick and McClellan. It was then aged 18 months in Hungarian oak. It reveals aromas of plums, raspberries and minerals, followed by long, delicious flavors of blueberries and raspberries. Beautiful acidity and modest tannins provide balance and elegance. (480 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Zerba Cellars $30 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This winery near Milton-Freewater, Ore., blended 77% Cab Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon to craft a wine that reveals strength and elegance. It opens with aromas of berries, hints of sweet herbs, cinnamon and cherries, followed by long, persistent flavors of black fruit. Broad tannins meld with the ample fruit from the midpalate through the lengthy finish. (309 cases, 13.6% alc.) Dusted Valley Vintners $32 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This

Sineann $48 2007 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills The youngest wine in our competition also was one of the best. And greatness is something of a habit for this Newberg, Ore., winery. Owner/winemaker Peter Rosback brought in grapes from what is arguably Washington’s finest vineyard and has crafted a blockbuster wine. It opens with aromas of blueberries, Bing cherries and raspberries, along with a whisper of white chocolate. On the palate are mouth-coating flavors of big, juicy

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/4/09

4:39 PM

Page 63

bordeaux gems

raspberries, bittersweet chocolate and underlying hints of sweet herbs. (70 cases, 15.1% alc.)

EXCELLENT Alder Ridge $40 2006 Estate Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills This label for Corus Estates & Vineyards in Seattle uses grapes from its estate Alder Ridge Vineyard, a beautiful and highly touted operation overlooking the Columbia River. This is a stunning wine with rich aromas of blackberries and plums and deep, inviting flavors of bold fruit, black tea, anise and spices. Assertive tannins can be tamed with a couple of years in the cellar or pairing it with grilled meats. (100 cases, 14.4% alc.) Fidelitas Wines $35 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley Spend much more than a few minutes in a vineyard with winemaker Charlie Hoppes and it is likely he will start talking about his love for Malbec. That intense interest in this grape shows here in the bottle, as this Red Mountain producer has crafted a red with complexity and intensity. It opens with aromas of floral notes, spices, black cherries and vanilla, followed by velvety flavors of dark fruit and bittersweet chocolate. The tannins are perfectly balanced and provide little more than background music for this wine’s sweet melodies. (245 cases, 14.1% alc.) Saviah Cellars $30 2006 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Owner/wine-

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

maker Richard Funk stands out in the crowded Walla Walla Valley wine scene by consistently producing red wines of great distinction. This Malbec from McClellan Vineyard offers up a complex mixture of aromas and flavors, including chocolate, jammy blackberry fruit and a whisper of smoke and spices from 100% French oak aging. We suggest pairing this with Cornish game hens or roasted duck. (170 cases, 14.1% alc.) O•S Winery $30 2006 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills This Seattle winery blended Cabernet Franc (75%) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from one of Washington’s finest vineyards to produce a delicious red wine of great character. This opens with aromas of herbal tea and Bing cherries, followed by flavors of blueberries, black tea and Baker’s chocolate. (377 cases, 14.9% alc.) Dusted Valley Vintners $32 2006 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley The guys who run this Walla Walla winery are fun-loving, but their wines are seriously good. This Malbec from Walla Walla Valley fruit opens with inviting aromas of cherries, minerally earth and dark chocolate, followed by integrated flavors of blackberries, cherries, chocolate and forest floor. Pair with aged beef or chicken in a mole sauce. (100 cases, 14.7% alc.) Townshend Cellar $25 2005 Malbec, Columbia Valley Don Townshend

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

caught our attention a half-decade ago when his 1998 Cab topped one of our competitions. This Spokane winemaker continues to craft a variety of superb wines, and this Malbec adds to that list. It opens with luscious aromas of marionberries, chocolate and caramel, followed by rich flavors of bold, dark fruit and dark chocolate. (85 cases, 13.7% alc.) Del Rio Vineyards $28 2006 Malbec, Rogue Valley One of the most celebrated vineyards in Oregon, this operation in Gold Hill began its own label just a few years ago. This Malbec from estate fruit provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, plums and hints of dark chocolate. It’s a fairly soft wine on the entry but picks up steam on the midpalate and finish, thanks to ample acidity. It should pair beautifully with lamb chops or beef. (140 cases, 13.8% alc.) Pend d’Oreille Winery $28 2006 Freepons Vineyard Malbec, Washington Idaho winemaker Stephen Meyer uses grapes from a Prosser, Wash., vineyard to produce this complex Malbec. It opens with aromas of blackberries, tobacco leaf and black pepper, followed by flavors of dark fruit, minerals and sweet oak. It’s a nicely balanced wine throughout. (50 cases, 13.6% alc.) Heaven’s Cave Winery $25 2006 Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Amethyst Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Hope Moore launched Heaven’s Cave with the intention of pro-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/2/09

2:08 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 64

bordeaux gems

viding funds to her Make the Dash Count, a foundation for helping youth. The grapes for this come from a top Horse Heaven Hills vineyard, and the resulting wine is superb. It opens with smoky aromas of mild oak and dark fruit, followed by velvety flavors of ripe blackberries. (50 cases, 13.6% alc.) Olympic Cellars Winery $23 2006 La Dolce Vida Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This winery near Port Angeles, Wash., used grapes from famed Bacchus Vineyard north of Pasco for this delicious Cab Franc. It opens with inviting aromas of black cherries and vanilla, followed by balanced flavors of dark fruit and a creamy midpalate. Pair with pork chops. (150 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Vineyard north of Pasco for this luscious and pleasing Malbec. It opens with aromas of blackberries, minerality and an ever-so-slight hint of tobacco leaf, followed by bold flavors of black fruit and a touch of tar and leather. (300 cases, 14.1% alc.) Abacela Vineyards and Winery $27 2006 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon This is about as mainstream as this Umpqua Valley producer gets with grape varieties. The grapes came from the estate Fault Line Vineyard, along with Pheasant Hill in the Rogue Valley. It opens with floral and black cherry aromas, followed by flavors of ripe plums and underlying notes of minerality and vanilla. (247 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Olympic Cellars Winery $32 2007 La Dolce Vida Boushey Vineyard Petit Verdot, Yakima Valley Winemaker Benoit Murat brought in Petit Verdot from one of Washington’s finest vineyards, near Grandview in Washington’s Yakima Valley. This opens with aromas of plums and blackberries followed by flavors of sweet raspberries, black licorice and tobacco leaf. It’s a wine with abundant fruit from entry through the lengthy finish. (80 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars $22 2006 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This longtime Spokane winery reaches into one of the Columbia Basin’s finest vineyards for this Cabernet Franc. It shows off fascinating aromas of espresso, black olives, dark chocolate and cherries, followed by juicy flavors of blackberries, black tea, chocolate and a hint of lavender. The winery recommends pairing this with beef tenderloin marinated in a huckleberry-Cabernet sauce. Sounds yummy. (414 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Three Rivers Winery $29 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley Winemaker Holly Turner brought in grapes from North Ridge Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and Sagemoor

Black Hills Estate Winery $33 CDN 2007 Carménère, Okanagan Valley Carménère is a rare enough wine in the United States, and this must be one of the only produced in Canada. This winery

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

just over the U.S. border on the venerable Black Sage Bench has crafted a Carménère with classic aromas of light cherries, plums and sweet earth. On the palate are flavors of Bing cherries, a hint of sweet herbs and a lingering finish. (140 cases, 13% alc.) Fairview Cellars $25 CDN 2005 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Owner/winemaker Bill Eggert uses his estate fruit for this classic Cab Franc from just south of Oliver, British Columbia. It opens with aromas of cherries and marionberries, followed by flavors of cherries, black olives and black tea. As we have come to expect from Okanagan Valley wines, this wine has tremendous acidity. (200 cases, 13.4% alc.) Kettle Valley Winery $35 CDN 2006 Malbec, Naramata Bench Winemakers Tim Watts and Bob Ferguson enjoy a near-cult following for the red wines they produce on the Okanagan Valley’s Naramata Bench. This Malbec opens with deep, dark aromas of marionberries and chocolate, followed by bold flavors of marionberries and blackberries. This is no wimpy wine and should be paired with something bold, such as barbecued ribs. (286 cases, 14.5% alc.) Terra Blanca Vintners $32 2005 Malbec, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Keith Pilgrim has been crafting wines with this variety for a number of years and pretty much has it dialed in. This is a beautifully balanced red with aromas and flavors of blackberries, milk chocolate and

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/2/09

2:11 PM

Page 65

bordeaux gems

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Thomas HenickKling, director of Washington State University’s viticulture and enology program, sits in on part of the “Bordeaux gems” tasting.

a touch of spice. Pair with pasta in a puttanesca sauce. (526 cases, 13.5% alc.) Cuillin Hills Winery $32 2006 Weinbau Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc, Wahluke Slope Winemaker Derek DesVoigne runs this Woodinville, Wash., producer. He brought in fruit from famed Weinbau Vineyard on the eastern Wahluke Slope for this reserve-style Cab Franc. It’s an elegant wine with aromas of high-toned cherries and chocolate, followed by luscious flavors of red currants and Rainier cherries. The well-integrated oak is mere background music for this food-friendly wine. (186 cases, 14.6% alc.) Fairview Cellars $25 CDN 2007 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Bill Eggert’s winery and vineyard are next to a golf course just over the U.S. border, so he occasionally finds golf balls amid the vines and enjoys whacking them back into the fairway. This Cab Franc is like a well-struck driver that resonates through the body with complete satisfaction. It opens with aromas of huckleberries and mild oak, followed by flavors of blueberries, huckleberries and a touch of vanilla. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.) Gamache Vintners $28 2006 Estate Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley The Gamache brothers grow grapes near the Washington town of Basin City, then hand their fruit over to winemaker Charlie Hoppes for the final product. This wine reveals aromas of peppercorns,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

blueberries and cloves, followed by round, ripe, hedonistic flavors of blackberries and plums backed with velvety tannins and sweet spices. (90 cases, 14.2% alc.) Abacela Vineyards and Winery $40 2005 Petit Verdot, Southern Oregon One has to wonder whether owner Earl Jones grows certain grapes at his Umpqua Valley vineyard simply to say, “Oh yeah?” to those who say he can’t. That might be the case here, as this Petit Verdot turned out wonderfully in a rather cool vintage — even by Oregon standards. This offers aromas of raspberries, mint and spicy oak, followed by flavors of blackberries, raspberries and a streak of minerality. You could enjoy it now with pork medallions or hide it in the cellar for a few more years. (161 cases, 14.3% alc.) Eleven Winery $31 2006 Windy Ridge Vineyard Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Windy Ridge Vineyard, a 160-acre vineyard north of the Columbia River, is the source of the grapes for this wine from a Bainbridge Island producer. It provides aromas of ripe cherries, light herbs and hints of vanilla and oak, followed by supple flavors of blackberries and spices backed with sweet tannins. (141 cases, 13.5% alc.) Indian Creek Winery $23 2006 Woodriver Vineyards Malbec, Snake River Valley Many Idaho winemakers gravitate toward Woodriver, a vineyard near Homedale in the Snake

River Valley. Veteran winemaker Bill Stowe and Mike McClure co-crafted this Malbec from its grapes, and it’s a dandy. It provides aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries and plums, all backed with ample acidity and tannin. Said one judge: “Bring on the steak!” (96 cases, 13.2% alc.) Morrison Lane $28 2005 Carménère, Walla Walla Valley Dean and Verdie Morrison have been growing wine grapes in the Walla Walla Valley for a dozen years and launched their eponymous label a few vintages ago. This Carménère comes from estate fruit and shows off aromas of white pepper and bright cherries, followed by elegant flavors of Rainier cherries, red plums and minerally earth. (13.4% alc.) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $18 CDN 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley California escapee Sandra Oldfield has specialized in Cabernet Franc since arriving in the Okanagan Valley in 1995. This Cab Franc is classic Tinhorn, with aromas of bright cherries, light chocolate and a hint of vanilla, followed by clean flavors of strawberries and raspberries, all backed with beautiful acidity and mild tannins. Pair with lamb chops or a plate of soft cheeses. (2,566 cases, 14.9% alc.) Gamache Vintners $28 2006 Malbec, Columbia Valley Using 100% fruit from estate grapes, winemaker Charlie Hoppes has crafted a red wine with character. This opens with aromas of sweet spices and blackberries, followed

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/5/09

3:39 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 66

bordeaux gems Okanagan use grapes not traditionally grown in the Okanagan Valley. This Petit Verdot is a pioneering effort north of the border and unveils aromas and flavors of blackberries and hints of oak. It’s a wellstructured wine with sturdy tannins, thus it can age for another half-decade or be paired sooner with roasted lamb. (400 cases, 14% alc.)

Master facilitator Hank Sauer uses a device that reads the temperature of the wine so he can tell if it’s at the optimum tasting temperature.

Fairview Cellars $25 CDN 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Bill Eggert’s current release of Cabernet Franc comes from his estate vineyard on the western side of the southern Okanagan Valley. This opens with aromas of ripe cherries, followed by delicate flavors of cherries and raspberries. It’s an approachable wine that should pair beautifully with lasagna or pork chops. (250 cases, 14.5% alc.)

RECOMMENDED Lopez Island Vineyards $20 2007 Crawford Vineyards Malbec, Yakima Valley This winery tucked into the scenic San Juan Islands buys grapes from the Yakima Valley for this classy Malbec. Owner/winemaker Brent Charnley normally uses this for blending but was so charmed by the 2007 vintage, he bottled it on its own. It reveals aromas and flavors of raspberries and hints of sweet herbs. (100 cases, 14% alc.) Saviah Cellars $28 2006 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Richard Funk brought in grapes from Seven Hills and McClellan vineyards for this lovely Cab Franc. It shows off aromas and flavors of cherries, chocolate, black tea and hints of leather. (191 cases, 14.1% alc.) Sawtooth Winery $25 2006 Malbec, Snake River Valley This Corus Estates-owned winery is the Gem State’s secondlargest producer and has a reputation for fearlessly pushing ahead on out-of-the-mainstream varieties. This Malbec reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries, leather and hints of oak. It’s a lovely red with beautiful balance. (140 cases, 14.2% alc.) Spangler Vineyards $30 2006 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon Pat Spangler continues to produce wines of quality and style in the winery formerly known as La Garza Cellars. This Cab Franc offers aromas and flavors of lively berries, hints of leather and oak and a luscious dark chocolate finish. (445 cases, 13.3% alc.)

by juicy flavors of blackberries and a streak of minerality. It’s an approachable wine that will be best enjoyed in the next five years with braised lamb chops or beef Wellington. One judge described this wine as “sexy.” Ooh-la-la. (190 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Horse Heaven Hills, and they brought in Cab Franc from highly acclaimed Phinny Hill Vineyard, just north of the Columbia River. This opens with aromas of ripe black cherries, pencil shavings and sweet oak, followed by flavors of ripe Bing cherries. (100 cases, 14% alc.)

Herder Winery & Vineyards $32 CDN 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Lawrence and Sharon Herder own and operate this young winery in Keremeos, British Columbia. The grapes come from the Osoyoos area, just north of the U.S. border. This opens with perfumy aromas of herbal tea, raspberries and chocolate, followed by flavors of blueberries, cherries and black tea, all backed with ample tannins. (118 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards $30 CDN 2006 Discovery Series Malbec, Okanagan Valley Sandor Mayer is the longtime winemaker for this Vincor-owned producer along the famed Golden Mile, south of Oliver, B.C. This wine uses grapes from McIntyre Vineyard near Oliver and reveals smoky aromas of cherries and light oak, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and sweet spices. (800 cases, 14% alc.)

Robert Karl Cellars $26 2006 Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills The owners of this Spokane winery love grapes from the

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards $30 CDN 2006 Discovery Series Petit Verdot, Okanagan Valley The Discovery Series wines at Inniskillin

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Eleven Winery $38 2006 Elerding Vineyard Petit Verdot, Yakima Valley Just a barrel of this wine was made using grapes from esteemed Elerding Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of sweet blackberries and black pepper, followed by flavors of black currants and spices. (25 cases, 13.5% alc.) Valley View Winery $35 2006 Anna Maria Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley One of the Rogue Valley’s oldest producers, Valley View crafted this reserve-level Cab Franc using grapes from Shady Cove Vineyard. It shows off aromas and flavors of bright cherries, hints of black olives and sweet herbs and black tea. (126 cases, 13.8% alc.) DiStefano Winery $32 2004 Sogno, Columbia Valley This Woodinville, Wash., winery has produced this Cab Franc-based wine since 1997. The 2004 is 91% Cab Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. It reveals aromas and flavors of warm spices, ripe dark fruit and sweet oak. (1,100 cases, 14.8% alc.) E.B. Foote Winery $28 NV Founder’s Red, Columbia Valley Eugene

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 bordeaux gems.qxd

3/4/09

4:43 PM

Page 67

bordeaux gems

BORDEAUX GEMS VA R I E TA L I N F O

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

in that South American country. In the past three years, Malbec has become a darling with Washington winemakers. Perhaps the least-known Bordeaux grape, Petit Verdot is primarily used to blend with other wines, often providing backbone in the form of tannin. It’s also is one of the most-frequently misspelled varieties. At least two wines in our judging had the wine misspelled on the label as Petite Verdot. P E T I T V E R D O T:

In Bordeaux, six grapes are officially recognized for producing red wines. For this judging, we sought out Northwest wineries using the four that are seen the least. Cab Franc has a lengthy history in Washington, partially because of its winter hardiness. It is most famous in France for being the “third” grape in Bordeaux and also is well known in the Loire Valley, particularly Chinon.

CABERNET FRANC:

Known primarily as a blending grape in Bordeaux, Malbec has enjoyed a boost in reputation thanks to Argentina, where it is the most-planted grape

MALBEC:

Once planted in the Medoc region of Bordeaux, this grape was all but wiped out and not replanted after phylloxera swept across France. It was accidentally planted in Chile more than 150 years ago, thought to be Merlot until about a decade ago. A bit has been planted in the Walla Walla Valley with great success.

CARMÉNÈRE:

Foote launched this Burien, Wash., winery in 1978, and current owner/winemaker Sherrill Miller bottled this blend of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon in Foote’s honor. The grapes come from the Wahluke Slope, and the resulting wine reveals notes of berries and Dr Pepper, along with a rich mouth feel. (120 cases, 15.5% alc.)

Latah Creek Wine Cellars $29 2006 Winemaker’s Reserve Red Petit Verdot, Washington Longtime Spokane winemaker Mike Conway launches his “Winemaker’s Reserve” line with this Petit Verdot. It provides powerful and complex flavors of ripe blackberries, plums and French press coffee. (340 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Kestrel Vintners $40 2005 Winemaker Select Malbec, Yakima Valley The grapes for this growing Prosser, Wash., winery came from estate Kestrel View Vineyard and a smidge (2%) of Cabernet Sauvignon was added to the final blend. Thanks to winemaker Flint Nelson, it provides aromas and flavors of boysenberries, sweet herbs and a whisper of smoke. (325 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery $20 CDN 2006 Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Our 2003 Northwest Winery of the Year has long been known for its Cabernet Franc. This comes from estate fruit on the venerable Black Sage Bench in the south Okanagan. This vintage reveals aromas and flavors of pie cherries, raspberries and a slight herbal note. (2,280 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Abacela Vineyards and Winery $25 2006 Malbec, Southern Oregon The grapes for this Malbec came from the Cox’s Rock and Chaotic Ridge blocks at this Umpqua Valley winery. It shows off aromas and flavors of blueberries, just-brewed espresso and a hint of minerality. (428 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Hester Creek Estate Winery $26 CDN 2005 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Located amid a cluster of wineries just south of Oliver, B.C., Hester Creek primarily relies upon grapes from its 76 acres of estate vines. This Cabernet Franc is classic Okanagan Valley, with aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberries, herbs and pencil shavings. (495 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Columbia Winery $28 2005 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley One of the most dramatic and beautiful vineyards in the state, Red Willow has enjoyed a long, successful relationship with this Woodinville, Wash., winery. This Cab Franc offers aromas and flavors of fresh blueberries, violets and a whiff of just-harvested alfalfa. It’s an elegant wine with a gentle entry and seamless tannins. (500 cases, 14.1% alc.) Hillside Estate Winery $23 CDN 2006 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley Now a quarter-century old, this winery on the Naramata Bench is well known for its wines as well as its bistro. This Cab Franc reveals aromas and flavors of ripe plums, Rainier cherries and underlying herbal notes. (750 cases, 12.8% alc.) O•S Winery $45 2006 Meek Vineyard Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley This Seattle producer crafted a somewhat rare Petit Verdot using grapes from a vineyard near Benton City, Wash. It offers aromas and flavors of raspberries, blackberries and a minerally notes. (75 cases, 14.5% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Sawtooth Winery $25 2005 Petit Verdot, Snake River Valley Launched in 1987 as Pintler Cellars, Sawtooth is one of Idaho’s oldest and largest wineries. This Petit Verdot, crafted by Brad Pintler, unveils aromas and flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and a whisper of oak. (114 cases, 14.5% alc.) Weisinger’s of Ashland $28 2005 Gold Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley Gold Vineyard, a favorite amid Rogue Valley winemakers, was planted in 1983, and the grapes for this wine were added in 2001. Winemaker Chanda Beeghley has crafted a wine that provides aromas and flavors of chocolate-covered cherries, black tea and black raspberries. It’s an elegant, well-made wine. (87 cases, 13.5% alc.) Animale $28 2006 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Matt Gubitosa focuses on producing small amounts of red wines from select Eastern Washington vineyards. This Petit Verdot comes from Gilbert Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and reveals aromas and flavors

of black cherries, black olives and coffee. A sweet entry gives way to bold tannins, which should pair well with grilled beef or lamb. (46 cases, 14.6% alc.) Whitestone Winery $22 2005 Haig Family Estate Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Located in the town of Wilbur, Wash., this winery uses grapes from its estate vines on the shore of Lake Roosevelt, a creation of Grand Coulee Dam. This is a bold expression of Cab Franc, providing ripe flavors of dark cherries, cranberries and leather. Firm tannins back up the ample fruit. (100 cases, 12.94% alc.) Indian Creek Winery $40 2006 Woodriver Vineyards Barrel Select Petit Verdot, Snake River Valley Young winemaker Mike McClure has crafted a well-made and -balanced red from a grape very rare in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. It provides aromas and flavors of ripe dark berries and hints of chocolate. Ample tannins would be tamed with a steak topped with blue cheese. (25 cases, 13.5% alc.) Le Chateau Winery $34 2006 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This new Walla Walla winery at the old World War II airport is best known for the artistic rendering on the front of the building that gives it the look of a fancy French chateau. This wine, from White Bluffs Vineyard north of Pasco, Wash., reveals aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and hints of sweet herbs and spices. (180 cases, 13.7% alc.) Sandhill Winery $30 CDN 2005 Small Lots Program Phantom Creek Vineyard Petit Verdot, Okanagan Valley This label for giant Calona Vineyards focuses on using grapes from the southern Okanagan Valley. This rare Petit Verdot provides aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries and red licorice. (309 cases, 12.5% alc.)

AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:20 AM

Page 68

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:28 AM

Page 69

WINE COUNTRY: PROSSER

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:33 AM

Page 70

WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE Maryhill Winery 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA

Tasting Room Open daily 10-6 • Gold medal wines • Huge Gift Shop selection www.maryhillwinery.com

1-877MARYHILL

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:40 AM

Page 71

WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

72-75 Fresh NW Design

3/2/09

2:16 PM

Page 72

72-75 Fresh NW Design

3/2/09

2:18 PM

Page 73

design

F E AT U R E

A work of art inside — and out Regional wines help Fresh Northwest Design’s bottle business shine BY INGRID STEGEMOELLER

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

GIG HARBOR, WASH. — WHEN YOU buy a high-end bottle of wine, you are usually paying for the expertly crafted liquid inside the vessel. Now if the bottle has been in the hands of the artists at Fresh Northwest Design in Gig Harbor, Wash., that bottle could be just as much of a collector’s item as its contents. Scott Schoenen, owner of the engraving and hand-painting bottle company, takes pride in showcasing the hundreds of sample bottles his team has created. In fact, they line the shelves of the studio where they work. There’s the collection of Garfield cartoons etched and painted onto bottles for Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Wash., or the Toy Story characters that smile from a bottle created for the birthday celebration of a Pixar executive. And then there’s the 9-liter Woodinville, Wash.-based Page Cellars’ Cabernet Sauvignon bottle with butterflies wrapping around the bottle and up the neck — one of the more challenging design techniques because artists aren’t working on a flat surface. “Everyone thinks the bottles are run through a machine,” Schoenen said. However, all of the work is custom, he said. And the glass canvas for the paintings his company designs range from the standard 750-milliliter format to the primat — which contains 27 liters. That’s one bottle holding

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

the equivalent of three cases of wine. “There’s nothing I can’t paint on (a bottle),” he said. “It’s just a matter of space.” Fresh Northwest Design celebrated its 20th anniversary in January and continues to create specially designed bottles for wineries, charities, schools, company events, birthdays and anniversaries. They create 7,000 to 10,000 bottles each year, but Schoenen said business has grown about 25 percent since he took over three years ago. The attention to detail is what Pattie O’Leary, head of wine solicitation for the Beaux Art Société in Idaho, appreciates about Fresh Northwest Design creations. “It’s something people covet,” she said. “People like to have a bottle of wine with artwork on it.” For the second year, Fresh Northwest Design is donating a 3-liter bottle for the society’s gala in April, which raises money for the Boise Art Museum. The bottle will be etched and painted this year with a piece of modern art. Both will be auctioned off together. Last year’s artwork and matching wine bottle combined for one of the top money-raising items in the auction, O’Leary said. H AV I N G A B L A S T

T HE NINE EMPLOYEES AT F RESH Northwest Design — and a dachshund, Baxter — make the artwork come to life. And they have a blast doing it.

Each is “cross-trained” or able to perform all the steps necessary in creating an etched, painted bottle from start to finish. That includes working up the design, sandblasting, airbrushing and hand painting. “It’s nice to have a combination of jobs,” said Brent Johnson, who also is a glassblower. “It’s kind of like art class all the time.” Lead painter Jody von Duering said, “The part I like is trying to fig-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

72-75 Fresh NW Design

F E AT U R E

3/2/09

2:21 PM

Page 74

design

ure out how we’re going to do something.” Music plays in the background as the team works, each helping to complete a specific part of the bottles. The choice of soundtrack depends on whose day it is for dish duty. Tunes are as diverse as rap, classic rock and Frank Sinatra. “Every once in a while, we all agree on a song,” Johnson said as he used an airbrush to apply light yellow paint to a darkly colored bottle. Sometimes they need to get creative in determining how to make designs come to life. “Literally, Jody can mimic wood on a bottle,” Schoenen said. The use of atypical materials lends to the company’s continued goal of producing increasingly unique and complex artwork. They’ve used lace as a stencil and Saran Wrap to produce a spongepainting effect. “Whatever we can find,” von Duering said. Some of the artists have proven backgrounds in art, but all enjoy artistic pursuits outside of work. Kris Clare is a writer with a background in sandblasting. He also collaborates with operations manager Tyson Session on writing comedy. “I like the fact that everybody’s got an artistic talent outside of work,” Schoenen said. “They bring that unique perspective back to work.”

Mandy Ryland applies a stencil to an empty bottle.

HOW IT HAPPENS

T HE CREATIVE PROCESS FOR F RESH Northwest Design begins with the clients. “We want them to be involved in the artistic process,” Schoenen said. The quality of work and rapid turnaround time compelled Kiley Evans, winemaker at Agate Ridge Vineyard in Eagle Point, Ore., to work with Fresh Northwest Design. But the relationship that has developed with Schoenen has turned him into a loyal customer, Evans said. The artists’ work “looked fantas74

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Paint is applied by hand to each bottle.

tic” and catches the eye, he said. When wine producers opt to bottle in the 3-liter size or larger, they’re choosing to set themselves

An airbrush can be used at times.

apart from the 750-milliliter and even magnums. “If you’re going to do something like that, it really has to be done the

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

72-75 Fresh NW Design

3/2/09

2:26 PM

Page 75

design

MORE INFO F R E S H N O RT H W E S T DESIGN

915 26th Ave. NW Gig Harbor, WA 98335 253-857-5305 www.freshnwdesign.com

The etched 3-D effect is created through sandblasting

right way,” Evans said. “When people see those 3-liter (double magnum) bottles at restaurants, it has an impact. Nobody’s used to seeing

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

bottles of that size. Everybody takes notice.” The company engraves and paints mostly red wine bottles because red wine is “more highly valued and sought after,” Schoenen said. “At the end of the day, it seems to be reds that people love.” Red bottles also make a better background because the dark color causes the designs to pop, Schoenen said. That dark backdrop can be used as a design element, too. Clear bottles generally hold white wine, which presents more of a design challenge, but Schoenen anticipates increased demand for decorated white wine bottles in the future. The tradition of creating Garfield bottles for Hogue Cellars got started nearly two decades ago when winery co-founder Gary Hogue met Garfield creator Jim Davis at a wine function in Florida. The two teamed up to create bottles sporting a Garfield cartoon for a charity auction in 1991. After one bottle fetched $7,000, they decided to make it an annual tradition. “We think that the etched bottle is a lot more classic,” Hogue said. “There’s no question that it will last for a long time… and become a collector’s item.” The estimated 20 bottles given to charities each year have raised nearly $600,000, Hogue said. “They simply look classy,” he said. It’s not unusual for clients to bring ideas and work with Fresh Northwest Design artists to perfect them. Once the design is final, the company orders a mask, or a stencil that is used as a guide for sandblasting the design on the bottle. The mask is applied to the bottle, which is then covered in tape and sandblasted. The artists generally work on empty bottles. They’re lighter, and if one drops, there’s less mess and heartache.

F E AT U R E

Next comes the paint. All of Fresh Northwest Design’s colors are mixed by hand to make sure the hue is precise. And an extra bottle often gets made, just in case. Working in three dimensions adds an extra challenge. Some bottles require three layers of etching to get the colors correctly applied. “When you’re working in 3-D rather than print, it’s exponentially different,” Schoenen said. Some designs are complex enough that they require 100 percent hand painting. Others lend themselves to airbrushing, too. And sometimes one layer of paint has to dry — which can take up to 24 hours — before another can be applied. Once bottles are finished and packaged up, the artists get the pleasure of watching them get shipped out. That offers a big dose of satisfaction, Session said. “There are lots of high fives exchanged,” Clare added. G R O W I N G I N D U S T RY

Fresh Northwest Design also creates bottles for birthdays and anniversaries. Such a bottle, usually 3 liters and painted with gold leafing, generally costs $350 to $450. But most of their business comes from regional wineries. “A lot of what we do is about Pacific Northwest wines,” Schoenen said. “That’s really what we’re doing — making it more beautiful and attractive.” Having a little fun in the process is important, too. “What we produce makes people happy,” Schoenen said. “It brings smiles to people’s faces.” Even Garfield’s. ı INGRID STEGEMOELLER covers the wine industr y-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:46 AM

Page 76

WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA

360-378-WINE Spring hours begin March 18: Wednesday - Sunday 11 - 5 & by appt. Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

11:54 AM

Page 77

WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON O•S Winery

Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines Located in South Seattle Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.oswinery.com

121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.

360-748-0432 • www.widgeonhill.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

40 ... Label ads

3/2/09

12:41 PM

Page 78

40 ... Label ads

3/4/09

4:35 PM

Page 79

WINE COUNTRY: SPOKANE

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

WINE REVIEWS

2:34 PM

Page 80

recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Jessica Munnell, a winemaker formerly at Chateau Ste. Michelle; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer, Paul Sinclair and David Volmut conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated. Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Airfield Estates 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 360 cases, 13.3% alc., $22

Outstanding! Marcus Miller and his family cropped this site, planted in 1989, to three tons per acre, and the combination of French and American oak for 18 months give it lift. A twist of the screwcap allows the cherries, almonds and chocolate in the nose to touch down on the palate. The frontal entry of fruit is impressive with cherries and blueberries, and silky milk chocolaty tannins keep the structure from rattling before the farewell of coffee.

Airfield Estates 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakim Valley, 160 cases, 13.3% alc., $32

Excellent. This young winery in Prosser, Wash.,

focused on French oak for this program and has the guts to put it under screwcap. Only seven of 25 barrels made the cut for this reserve, and the notes run from raspberry to cherry character with pleasing herbal tones. It’s fruity and bright on the entry with tamed alcohol levels but warmed up by rich, big, chocolaty tannins on the back end.

Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, 14.4% alc., $38

Recommended. Cold Creek Vineyard and the Wahluke Slope played almost equal roles here, and the results yield blackberries, bittersweet chocolate and mint. Enjoy with food matches such as flank steak marinated with thyme, a T-bone with blue cheese or Death By Chocolate.

DavenLore Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.6% alc., $25

Excellent. Gordon Taylor and Joan Davenport

have been behind the scenes in the Washington wine industry for years, but they’ve only recently started their own winery in Prosser. Black cherries, earth, alfalfa, chalkboard dust and cedar start to describe the aromas. Cherry and blackberry flavors spill out with plums across an easy-going structure that finishes with a slurp of a grape Popsicle. 2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Oregon State Fair, Northwest Wine Summit, Okanagan Fall Wine Competition, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Northwest Wine & Food Fest, Capital Food & Wine Fest and Greatest of the Grape.

Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon

Dumas Station Wines

Competitions

Reds

haul, yet it will sidle up nicely with veal or pasta covered in a red sauce.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars

Walla Walla Valley, 295 cases, 14% alc., $32

Outstanding! Jay DeWitt wears lots of hats at this young operation in a mid-1800s train station in Dayton, Wash. He owns the winery, makes the wine and owns/manages the estate Minnick Hills Vineyard. Rich aromas of expensive oak include toffee, vanilla bean and black cherries. There’s more black fruit on the palate, featuring wild blackcap raspberries and a crunch of the seed amid the juicy acidity and velvety tannins.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Hightower Cellars

Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 13.9% alc., $18

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Outstanding! It's becoming rare to find a wine of

Columbia Valley, 355 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

this quality and pedigree — Bacchus, Dionysus, Stillwater, Katherine Leone and the estate Wahluke Slope Vineyard — at this price. But here it is with big chocolaty and earthy aromas. Bittersweet chocolate hits the taste buds initially, joined up by blackberries and dark currants. It gives way to bold tannins and finishes with a flourish.

Excellent. Plums and blackberries are met in the

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 348 cases, 14.2% alc., $38

Recommended. Bangsund and neighboring

Ashmore vineyards in The Dalles, Ore. supply all the fruit for this food-friendly Cab that features pomegranates, dried cherries, strawberry leaf and tremendous acidity.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 5,400 cases, 14.3% alc.,$28

Excellent. One of Washington’s steamiest sites

produces Cab that warms up to barrel aging, and it wears the 21 months of powerful French oak well. Black currants and huckleberries abound with Baker’s chocolate and saddle leather tones. It's boldly structured for the long

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

nose by a hint of Fig Newton cookie. There’s more purple fruit on the attack with an opulence in the midpalate of cherries and blackberries. Firm tannins are finished with red currants.

Holmes and Harbor Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 92 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Outstanding! The marriage of Greg and Theresa

Martinez, the latter with a career in chemistry, has helped put Greenbank, Wash., on the winemaking map with its first vintage. Fruit from well-known Les Collines Vineyard fills the glass with aromas of black cherries, strawberry fruit leather, raspberry and some leafiness. Drink in tones of candied black cherries, moist earth, milk chocolate and oregano, and the finish is reminiscent of a raspberry reduction sauce.

Martinez & Martinez Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 137 cases, 14.3% alc., $30

Excellent. This Martinez family has been involved with Horse Heaven Hills vineyards since 1981, and so it is quite familiar with the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:34 PM

Page 81

recent releases Alder Ridge fruit used in this debut vintage. Chukar Cherries, Italian herbs, citrus peel and oak form the base of the aromas. Juicy wild mountain berries and pie cherries drift into a structure akin to a “Left Bank” Bordeaux with some bittersweet chocolate in the finish.

Mercer Estates 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 694 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Excellent. This vintage marked the end of Mike

Hogue’s noncompete clause after selling his namesake winery to Constellation, so he joined forces with the Mercer family, lured winemaker David Forysth from Hogue Cellars and it’s game on. The Cab hails from Andrews Vineyard with Merlot (5%) trucked in from Desert Wind on the Wahluke Slope to help form a bouquet of boysenberries, Rainier cherries, blueberries, lilac, mincemeat and whole wheat toast. It’s a delicious drink with blackberries, deep cheep and wonderful chocolate notes. A bit of oregano adds complexity, and there’s a sip of coffee before heading out the door. Drying tannins are the thing holding this back at the moment, but time will change that.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 284 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Outstanding! This year, winemaker Randy Finley

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

also celebrates his 20th anniversary as the winery’s owner. His travels to Ranch at End of the Road, Lonesome Springs, Crawford and Portteus vineyards are rewarded here as blueberries, allspice and Baker’s chocolate dominate the senses. The juicy structure finds balance with smooth tannins and more chocolate in the farewell. We’d suggest pairing this with grilled steak topped with sautéed Walla Walla Sweet Onions.

WINE REVIEWS

leather. The splash is akin to that of a cannonball. It's a big, fat wine with tremendous complexity, brimming with sweet black cherries and bright blueberries that impart acidity over rich tannins. Enjoy with a porterhouse seasoned with chimichurri.

NxNW 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 3,776 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Excellent. This marked the second vintage of

Northwest Totem Cellars

Wash., continues to grow, and while Mike Sharadin didn’t arrive in the first waves, Cabs such as this help him stand out from the crowd. Cola, blackberries, green olives, moist earth and cedar aromas are matched on the palate and joined by Rainier cherries, dusty tannins and saddle leather.

King Estate’s big red program in the Walla Walla Valley, and the last year during which the wines were made outside of the valley. Seven Hills remained a part of the mix, but nearby Pepper Bridge and the Yakima Valley’s Elephant Mountain contributed to this more classic Cab. Black cherries, crushed walnuts and bell pepper aromas are matched in the mouth. There’s a wealth of tannins but an abundance of acidity, too, for aging at least five to seven years.

NxNW

Tasawik Vineyards

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Walla Walla Valley, 401 cases, 13.5% alc., $35

Walla Walla County, 214 cases, 13.6% alc., $26

Outstanding! One of Oregon’s leading wineries, King Estate in Eugene, scores a 10.0 with its first dive in the Walla Walla Valley. Seven Hills fruit, winemaker John Albin and a historic vintage create a nose of blue fruit, cloves, vanilla bean, cedar, crushed walnuts, chocolate and

Excellent. Named after a historic Palouse Indian

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 183 cases, 13.2% alc., $30

Excellent. The wine community in Woodinville,

village, this young vineyard delivered a wine filled with aromas of strawberries, teriyaki and alder smoke. A big mouthful of juicy mountain berries and their acidity is met by gritty tannins that lend this wine to a buffalo burger topped

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/4/09

WINE REVIEWS

4:44 PM

Page 82

recent releases cherry/chocolate presentation on the palate with a pleasing structure of blueberry acidity and very little tannin.

King Estate

Anne Amie Vineyards

Dunham & Froese Estate Winery

2007 Cuvée A Pinot Noir

2007 Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 3,200 cases, 13.3% alc., $25

Okanagan Valley, 100 cases, 13.5% alc., $26 CDN

Outstanding! One of the Northwest’s most prized

Recommended. Dusty plums, red-toned fruit and

Pinot Noir houses reached into eight different vineyards — leading with Hawks View — and pulled out a real treat at an approachable price point. Enticing aromas feature plums, Bing cherries, cardamom, black pepper and raindrenched earth. Rich cherry and boysenberry flavors step into a great depth of character in the structure with touches of red licorice in the flourish of finesse in the finish.

green peppercorn aromas lead into a dark brooding fruit palate with a smoky overhang. It’s done in a lighter, easy-drinking style, but pair it with grilled pork tenderloin with plum chutney and this wine will sing.

Excellent. Most of these vines in Bellpine soil were around 10 years old, and they produced a fine expression of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Aromatics include crushed cherries, blueberries, vanilla, peppermint and orange peel. That’s followed by more cherries and blueberries and their acidity. Smooth tannins give way to a scrape of orange zest that signals the finish.

with Gruyère.

Pinot Noir

Carabella Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 1,800 cases, 14.7% alc., $39

Excellent. MIke Hallock’s estate collection of five

clones — (Dijon 115, 114, 133), Pommard and Wadenswil — delivered aromas of strawberry, cherry and black pepper. There’s a

King Estate 2006 Block 4D Clone 777 Pinot Noir Oregon, 140 cases, 13.5% alc., $75

Recommended. Here marks the 15th vintage off the organic Domaine estate vineyard, and this is about as fruit-forward and friendly a Pinot Noir you'll find. Rainier cherries, loganberries and plums brush your nostrils. Inside are more plums and loganberries with some black walnut in a remarkably delicate tannin structure with good acidity.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

2006 Domaine Pinot Noir Oregon, 982 cases, 13.9% alc., $60

Kramer Vineyards 2005 Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District, 300 cases, 13.3% alc., $18

Outstanding! It doesn’t officially qualify as a “Best Buy,” but for Pinot Noir, it might as well. Even Trudy Kramer admits she’s surprised at how well this is drinking, starting with a beckoning of cranberries, raspberries, pie cherries, chocolate, cedar, leather and a bit of leafiness. What awaits is an easy drink with more cherries, chocolate, allspice and strawberry with the leaf. Zesty acidity makes for a wide assortment of food pairings.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/4/09

4:44 PM

Page 83

recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Coyote Canyon Winery

Redline

2004 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 700 cases, 14.6% alc., $14

2006 Recession Red Horse Heaven Hills, 400 cases, 13.9% alc., $14

Outstanding! Mike Andrews began making estate wine off his family’s 1,100-acre vineyard with the 2004 vintage, and this bottling bodes well. Cherry, earth and chocolate aromatics lead to spicy black cherry and red licorice flavors. Pleasing, but not overwhelming, oak imparts enough chocolate to extend this structure on and on in delicious fashion.

2005 Cab-Merlot

2006 Boomtown Syrah

Columbia Valley, 619 cases, 14.5% alc., $14

Columbia Valley 1,452 cases, 14.6% alc., $15

Excellent. This wacky Wisconsin bunch was inspired by the rapid growth

of Walla Walla, hence the name of this line. It sold through rapidly because its sipping structure is full of cranberries, cherries and oak tones. It shows remarkable balance and would have been just as satisfying at twice the price.

2005 Heritage Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 13.5% alc., $40

Outstanding! Trudy Kramer continues to craft

wholesome and honest wines, and this might be the best example. The product of her oldest vines, own-rooted Pommard dating to 1984, expresses pie cherry, cedar and cola aromas. It’s a food-friendly and balanced drink with flavors of dominated by cherries and allspice, set against a landscape of smooth tannins.

Nk’Mip Cellars 2007 Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 1,246 cases, 13.9% alc., $30 CDN

Recommended. The reserve-tier offering presents

black cherries, raspberry, cocoa powder and coffee bean aromas, followed by nice juicy cherries and raspberries on the palate with pomegranate. Bright acidity frames the light tannins and a touch of caramel in the finish ties this all together for a good quaffer.

Nk’Mip Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 1,269 cases, 13.9% alc., $20 CDN

Recommended. Here’s an expressive and

approachable wine that will be a great entry for new red wine drinkers, and one that can be served slightly chilled for a good summertime sipper. Raspberry fruit leather, pie cherry, strawberry jam on toast and cigar box aromas transcend into a drink of raspberry jam and juicy Rainier cherries on a midpalate with subdued tannins and pie cherry tartness in the finish. Enjoy with smoked fish.

Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 6,764 cases, 13.5% alc., $35

Outstanding! This single bottling accounts for

nearly 25 percent of the Ponzi production, and it’s astounding. There are pie cherries, allspice, strawberries, green peppercorns, forest floor and raspberry aromas. And it’s W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ond label, and Jarrod Boyle drives the needle to just the right level in this quaffer. It’s straightforward and tasty with notes of cherries, strawberries and rhubarb, spiced up by cinnamon bark, nutmeg and food-friendly acidity. Available only at ANC’s Woodinville tasting room or by phone.

San Juan Vineyards

Dusted Valley Vintners

Kramer Vineyards

Excellent. Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser, Wash., released this sec-

Outstanding! Too bad more marriages don’t work as well as this. It’s a 60/40 split using fruit from Jones, Alder Creek, Kestrel View and Gordon Brothers, and the courtship starts with fragrance of blackberries, blueberries, green peppercorns, leather, horehound and molasses. It’s consummated on the palate with a delicious rush of blackberries and milk chocolate. Blueberry acidity gives it amazing balance.

the same stuff in the mouth but dominated by the rich strawberries. It’s full-on fruit all the way and it’s deliciously jammy from stem to stern.

Merlot Cadaretta Wines 2006 Merlot

Ponzi Vineyards

Columbia Valley, 145 cases, 14.9% alc., $35

2006 Reserve Pinot Noir

Excellent. The Middletons, a fifth-generation fam-

Willamette Valley, 2,100 cases, 13.8% alc., $60

Outstanding! A product of one of Oregon’s

quickest and largest vintages, this offers complex aromas black cherries, plums, pepper, tobacco leaf and tar. A velvety mouthful of cherry pie awaits with blueberry acidity and chocolaty tannins. The Ponzis relied on certified sustainable grapes, not only their own but also Gemini, Lazy River and Linda Vista vineyards.

ily in the Washington timber industry, christened their winery in Walla Walla and named it after a schooner that once hauled their logs up and down the West Coast. French vintner Virginie Bourgue, formerly of Bergevin Lane, crafted a big wine featuring chocolate oak tones, coffee and chewy dark blackberries. Suggested pairings include hearty homemade stew.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Ethos Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,900 cases, 14.3% alc., $38

Ponzi Vineyards

Excellent. Fruit from the estate Cold Creek and

2007 Tavola Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 5,104 cases, 13% alc., $25

Excellent. Luisa Ponzi takes particular pride in

the fact that 100% of the fruit is certified sustainable. Her entry-level Pinot Noir invites with spicy cherry and toasty oak aromas that lead to more Bing cherries and plums on the balanced palate. A pinch of Italian herb in the finish adds complexity and expands the options for your dining table or The Dundee Bistro.

Canoe Ridge vineyards forms the backbone of this reserve-tier wine that's built for cellaring, but it quickly found fans. The new oak (79%) provides accents of bittersweet chocolate and toast that quickly move behind the big and bold blackberry tones and firm tannins. Suggested fare includes lamb chops or other grilled meat.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Indian Wells Merlot Columbia Valley, 6,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $18

Excellent. Here is one of the Northwest's most

Primarius 2006 Pinot Noir Oregon, 4,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Outstanding! Seattle-based Precept Brands uses the Latin word for “distinguished” as the name for this project that allows winemaker Hal Landvoigt to meet Oregon fruit in the middle of Washington state. There’s little romance in Mattawa, but the consumer should love this at the checkstand and in the glass. It's a nice little drink that’s not muscled up with wood, and somewhere between a rosé and the light end of the red wine scale. Plums, pie cherries, a bit of earth, smooth tannins and crisp acidity do most of the talking.

reliable and available Merlots, and its fruit-forward style — indicative of the Wahluke Slopebased Indian Wells program — is fleshed out by Syrah (20%). Hints of black cherries, spice, brown sugar, a sliver of chocolate and a slice of black olive are backed by more of the same on a well-balanced structure with blueberries, spice and cassis.

E.B. Foote Winery 2005 Merlot Wahluke Slope, 465 cases, 14.8% alc., $18

Outstanding! Sherrill Miller's underrated winery in Burien, Wash., works extensively with fruit near Mattawa, and this combines Arianses and

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:36 PM

Page 84

WINE REVIEWS

recent releases

Milbrandt fruit from a legendary vintage. The results are duly impressive with aromas of black cherries, allspice, maraschino cherries and cola. Those ingredients deliver between the lips in a weighty and rich fashion with some Redman chewing tobacco in the finish.

Hestia Cellars 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 15.4% alc., $35

Excellent. Shannon Jones tapped into Canoe

Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills for a juicy expression. Dark cherries, milk chocolate and Italian herbs — a sign of the Cabernet Franc (20%) — funnel into juicy flavors of more cherries and blackberries, heightened by chewy tannins and finished with hints of molasses and green peppercorns.

Kludt Family Winery 2005 Cougar Ridge Reserve Merlot Chelan County, 360 cases, 13.8% alc., $42

Recommended. The estate program of Wapato

Point Cellars produced a wine filled with black cherries, cassis, pie cherries, cola, red peppercorns and sturdy tannins.

L’Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 1,406 cases, 14.4% alc., $36

Recommended. The 220-acre partnership with

Pepper Bridge Winery and Leonetti Cellar yields a drink of light cherries and strawberries with Douglas fir notes and frontal tannins.

Mannina Cellars 2006 Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 236 cases, 13.9% alc., $24

Excellent. Don Redman taps into some of the

valley’s finest vineyards, including Pepper Bridge, and a touch of Syrah for this layered release. The nose filters out hints of black cherries, blackberries, vanilla, coffee and a pinch of oregano. There’s a strong backbone of fruit on the palate with Chukar Cherries and more blackberries, finished with another rub of oregano.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Reserve Merlot Okanagan Valley, 13.5% alc., $25 CDN

Excellent. The designation means that 85% of

the fruit came off estate sites, giving John Simes plenty of control. Aromas of blueberry tea, maraschino cherry and French vanilla spill out on the palate with a nice light cherry entry and bright acidity. The well-managed oak shows itself from the midpalate to the finish in the form of Baker’s chocolate.

Northstar 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 15,000 cases, 14.7% alc., $41

Outstanding! It can’t be easy for David “Merf” Merfeld to referee these barrels from 18 blocks off 14 different vineyards, but he comes out a champion, thanks in part to some Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Light cherries, blueberries with the leaf, cola, nutmeg and chocolate are drawn in with a sniff. More blueberries, cherry liqueur and chocolate tones slide around the palate. Tannins frame the

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

structure and even add complexity before yielding to sweet plums in the finish.

Northstar 2005 Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 2,500 cases, $60

Recommended. The Walla Walla Valley portion of

this program is beginning to take off, and this is supremely easy-drinking, as Merlot should be. Red tones ring true throughout with strawberries, black cherries, red peppercorns, leather and even a hint of tutti fruity ice cream.

Northwest Totem Cellars 2005 Chandler Reach Vineyard Merlot Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 13.6% alc., $30

Excellent. Grape grower Len Parris befriended

Woodinville winemaker Mike Sharadin early on, and this wine is a tribute to their relationship. Blackberry, bacon, rose petal and smoky oak aromas sweep into more blackberries and blueberries on the big and jammy palate. Black tea tannins and zippy acidity should do well with a grilled pork loin.

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery 2006 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 555 cases, 14.6% alc., $30 CDN

Outstanding! Here’s a tale of two wines, with the first half hinting at dusty cherries, blueberries, white strawberry with the leaf and bacon fat aromas. Yet, it’s heaped with lovely sweet fruit on the extracted palate, featuring intense round flavors of strawberry jam and cordial cherries. There’s some menthol, and it’s youthful, even a bit yappy in terms of tannins, but it will take you places. Enjoy with venison or elk accompanied by portabello mushrooms or truffles, joined by pan-roasted potatoes.

RoxyAnn Winery 2006 Merlot Rogue Valley, 205 cases, 13.5% alc., $24

Outstanding! As you can see, remarkable Merlot continues to be made in Northwest, including Southern Oregon. Gus Janeway continues to cycle through vintages in tasty fashion, and this spins out aromas of black cherries, blueberries, plums, teriyaki, chocolate and toasted paprika. On the attack are sweet and juicy black cherries, blackberry jam on the midpalate with blueberry acidity in the finish. The absence of tannin should serve it well alongside a pan of paella.

Tasawik Vineyards 2005 Estate Merlot Walla Walla County, 176 cases, 13.8% alc., $24

Excellent. This new winery not far from Ice

Harbor Dam on the Snake River uses only estate fruit. Given that these grapes were third leaf bodes well. The wine features tones of black cherries, dried blueberries and a freshly brewed mocha, backed by a juicy structure.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2005 Oldfield’s Collection Merlot Okanagan Valley, 1,300 cases, 13.5% alc., $28 CDN

Outstanding! Sandy Oldfield’s reserve Merlot

features a level of sophistication that has become more common with British Columbia reds. Amazingly layered and elegant aromatW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:37 PM

Page 85

recent releases ics include cassis, blueberries, rhubarb, citrus, baked blackberry pie crust, chocolate, menthol, pink peppercorns and chocolate. The drink itself is intense, fruit-forward and jammy up front with black cherries and blackberries. Next is a hint of slate before the big midpalate acidity lifts the fruit again before yielding to sturdy tannins and burnt berry pie crust in the finish. Further rewards will come in three-tofive years.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2006 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 7,927 cases, 14.4% alc., $19 CDN

Excellent. The regular-tier Merlot is younger but

showing signs of maturing. Black cherry and cooked plum hints include toasted shredded wheat, teriyaki and chalkboard dust. More rich black fruit marmalade awaits, including boysenberry with a crunch of the seed and parsley. Those tannins stand tall at the moment, but cellaring will loosen their grip some. Enjoy with chicken in a cream-puff pastry.

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2005 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 1,200 cases, 13.9% alc., $25 CDN

Outstanding! It’s not often you’ll see a winery on British Columbia’s Naramata Bench release a Merlot with this level of production and such quality. There’s a greeting of cherries, sarsaparilla and fresh-ground black pepper. The pour offers raspberries and cranberries with bright acidity, balanced tannins and some cocoa powder in the finish. It’s neither too little nor too much, making it a fine food wine from ribs to a ribeye.

Wild Goose Vineyards 2006 Reserve Merlot Okanagan Valley, 200 cases, 14.6% alc., $20 CDN

Excellent. Our reigning Northwest Winery of the

Year flashes its rising skill with dry reds here as alluring aromas of marionberries, French vanilla and Baker’s chocolate cascade into a mouthful of cherries, more chocolate and French-press coffee.

Syrah Cadaretta Wines 2006 Syrah Columbia Valley, 2,118 cases, 15% alc., $30

Recommended. Pepper Bridge Vineyard in Walla

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Walla, Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and Stone Tree on the Wahluke Slope come together in a bold statement of plums, black cherries and oak from this new Walla Walla winery.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Reserve Syrah

WINE REVIEWS

black cherries, espresso, cocoa powder and violets. Black cherries take the lead on the tongue as polished and sweet tannins provide the foundation. Then comes this remarkable sensation of an ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce, a chopped almond with a cherry on top.

Columbia Valley, 2,00 cases, 14.6% alc., $44

Coyote Canyon Winery

Outstanding! California kid Michael Sebastini con-

2005 Estate Syrah

tinues to impress at our 2007 Oregon Winery of the Year. Fruit from Kortge Vineyard in The Dalles and Reid Vineyard in Rufus spins out cherry, raspberry and French vanilla aromas. It’s blackberries, dark plums and allspice on the palate with Italian herbs to add complexity.

Horse Heaven Hills, 200 cases, 13.9% alc., $25

Cathedral Ridge Winery

2005 Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah

Recommended. Here’s a lighter style of Syrah that

leans toward tones of black cherries, chocolate, coffee and herbal tea with an amazing finish of chocolate chip mint ice cream on the palate.

Eleven Winery

2006 Syrah

Horse Heaven Hills, 171 cases, 13.9% alc, $24

Columbia Valley, 374 cases, 14.5% alc., $38

Outstanding! Matt Albee’s operation on Bainbridge Island near Seattle continues to earn accolades. This vineyard-designate greets with aromas of pomegranate, cherry vanilla, acai berry and showy oak. On the palate, it’s what you’d expect from a Washington Syrah with its blackberry shake structure with a tug of tannin and a dash of black pepper in the finish.

Excellent. This winery in Hood River, Ore.,

focuses on nearby Bangsund Vineyard for this expression that spent 20 months in barrel. Enticement from cherry cola, brown sugar, flannel, cedar and Hershey’s milk chocolate leads to a dark pour of cherry vanilla Coke followed by more chocolate and blackberry cobbler. Its balance borders on sublime.

Hestia Cellars 2006 Syrah

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Columbia Valley, 80 cases, 15.5% alc., $35

2005 Ethos Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.5% alc., $28

Outstanding! A 50/50 blend of Wahluke Slope and Cold Creek fruit came together beautifully for Bob Bertheau. Great complexity begins in the nose with dark cherries, pleasing vanilla, leather and a hint of chocolate from the 20 months in barrel. Those dark cherries and chocolate carry through to the palate with a delicious acidic finish. Suggested fare includes grilled salmon or beef accented by Italian herbs.

Outstanding! Shannon Jones continues to ramp up production at his young winery in Carnation, Wash., and he flashes skill with this fruit from Dineen Vineyard, a cooler site in the Yakima Valley. Plums, pink peppercorns, Baker’s chocolate and cedar fill the imagination. The sip is quite hedonistic as more ripe plums, pomegranates and Bing cherries dusted with chocolate burst in the mouth. Coffee and leather in the finish round out the palate that’s bright with acidity.

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2006 Grand Reserve Shiraz

Columbia Winery

Okanagan Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.3% alc., $26 CDN

2005 Red Willow Vineyard South Chapel Block Syrah Yakima Valley, 250 cases, 14.1% alc., $30

Outstanding! David Lake made this vineyard

and this variety famous in the Northwest beginning more than 20 years ago, and Kerry Norton — Columbia’s new winemaker — shows the power and grace of Mike Sauer’s grapes. Breathe in pomegranate, cranberries,

Outstanding! Brooke Blair took over the red program at JT when Bruce Nicholson returned home to Ontario, and she’s running with it. Bull Pine Estate Vineyard, a 240-acre plot on the Osoyoos Lake Bench just north of Oroville, Wash., supplied the heat and hang time for a big purple people eater. Plum, blackberry and blueberry notes reign supremely, along with notes of cracked pepper, teriyaki, sagebrush, a

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/4/09

WINE REVIEWS

4:45 PM

Page 86

recent releases

chocolate brownie and a cup of coffee. The fruit, oak and tannins make it sinewy now, then sexy in two to three years.

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2006 SunRock Vineyard Shiraz Okanagan Valley, 800 cases, 14.2% alc., $35 CDN

Outstanding! It’s obvious that young Aussie

vintner Brooke Blair knows this variety, and here’s another long-winded review. Aromas include blueberry milkshake, slate, juniper, orange marmalade, fresh-brewed mocha, sausage, and black peppercorns. It’s a mouth-coating drink, topped with more blueberry flavors, milk chocolate and bacon fat. Sweet brambleberries add acidity, and the tannins are assertive but not over the top. Her suggested pairings list lamb, venison, quail and smoked ribs.

Kludt Family Winery 2005 Cougar Ridge Reserve Syrah Chelan County, 360 cases, 13.8% alc., $42

Excellent. The high-tier of Wapato Point Cellars

relies on estate fruit on the north shore of Lake Chelan to produce aromas of coffee, leather and chocolate. It’s followed by flavors of early season Bing cherry with a piece of Aussie black licorice and a big farewell that's slightly sweet, lingering and satisfying.

L’Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 858 cases, 14.8% alc., $36

Excellent. There’s a strong theme of marionberry

and boysenberry to this Marty Clubb production, backed in the aromas by saddle leather, allspice and cassis. And the components for a classic wine all line up on the palate with a jammy texture of red brambleberries, restrained oak with more saddle leather, approachable tannins and more berry acidity in the finish.

value and quality. Ranch at the End of the Road on Red Mountain and Portteus in the Yakima Valley supply the red power, which was co-fermented with Viognier (5%) from Crawford Vineyard. This is packed with cherry cola and chocolate tones with a juicy and tasty structure. The impressive acidity means the tannins will have even more time to loosen up.

O•S Winery 2006 Dineen Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley, 90 cases, 14.8% alc., $35

2006 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 402 cases, 13.8% alc., $22

Excellent. John Morgan grabbed grapes from

Stone Valley and Les Collines to produce a wine that might fetch twice the price if it were sold in the Walla Walla Valley rather than the Methow Valley. Boysenberries and blackberries combine with toasted wheat, licorice, bittersweet chocolate, coffee and leather in the nose. The palate runs deep with fresh-picked plums, more berries and chocolaty tannins that turn to bittersweet chocolate in the finish. 2004 Barrel Select Syrah Yakima Valley, 402 cases, 14.9% alc., $16

Excellent. It’s a bit unusual to see this much

Viognier (7%) used to co-ferment with Syrah, but the results from Crawford Vineyard are showy. Dark currants, warm oak and chocolate tones are accented by great acidity and a finish of mountain berries.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2004 Reserve Syrah Yakima Valley, 251 cases, 14.9% alc., $24

Excellent. This often-overlooked winery just a few

miles from British Columbia continues to offer

2005 Oldfield’s Collection Syrah Okanagan Valley, 75 cases, 14.1% alc., $35 CDN

Recommended. Dusty marionberries, Graham

cracker, smoked jerky and pleasing earth lead the way with this release. Enjoy now with appetizers that feature ham or bacon, but it will improve with a bit of patience.

Woodinville Wine Cellars

the profile of this Zillah, Wash., vineyard. Their third vintage from Dineen produced a wine that sits in the glass looking like a Syrah, but it has the grace and food-friendly profile of a Pinot Noir, starting with Bing cherries, vanilla bean, mint and Italian parsley aromatics. In the mouth, you’ll find black cherries give way on the midpalate to sweet blueberries, followed by sour cherries and spearmint with balance that highlights the complexities.

2006 Syrah

Robert Karl Cellars

Columbia Valley, 225 cases, 14.9% alc., $30

Excellent. Sean Boyd helped establish

Woodinville as a wine touring destination with wines such as this, which hails from Chandler Reach, Dineen and Stillwater Creek. A nose of plums and cherries peeks out from the influence of the 50% new French oak program that adds vanilla bean, bittersweet chocolate and Candela leaf tobbaco. Luscious blackberry flavors lead the way, joined by bittersweet chocolate, nice acidity and chalky tannins at the back.

Grenache

2006 Syrah Horse Heaven Hills, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Outstanding! The Gunselmans live in Spokane, but they devote a lot of their energies to the Horse Heaven Hills. Wines such as this from McKinley Springs — which is co-fermented with 5% Viognier — show that it’s worth their effort. Blackberry-infused tea, lavender, spearmint and milk chocolate aromas hint at its lighter style. Expressive blackberries and light chocolate dominate the complex flavors, which are carried smoothly by nice acidity and a near-absence of tannin.

RoxyAnn Winery 2006 Estate Syrah Excellent. Inside one of the most bucolic tasting

rooms in Southern Oregon are these wines made in Medford by Gus Janeway. Here’s a youthful style of Syrah with an introduction of Rainier cherries, blueberries, pencil shavings, green tea, Dagoba chocolate and some teriyaki jerky. It’s plummy and yummy on the tongue with more juicy cherries and chocolate. Enjoyable acidity gives way to chalky tannins in the farewell.

San Juan Vineyards

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Grenache Horse Heaven Hills, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $38

Outstanding! Scorching temperatures don’t seem to bother the vines on this estate parcel, and there’s a remarkable hint of Red Hots cinnamon cherry candy among the aromas of chocolate, vanilla and crushed leaf. It’s the same stuff as in the nose on the palate, with some light chocolate and wonderful mouth feel.

Barnard Griffin 2007 Grenache Columbia Valley, 168 cases, 14.8% alc., $25

Outstanding! Termed as one of a kind, this charming and delicate wine is juicy, balanced and remarkable inviting. Raspberries and Bing cherries dominate the aromas and flavors in a smooth fashion with a delightful midpalate and lingering juicy finish.

Heaven’s Cave 2006 Ridgeline Destiny Ridge Vineyard Grenache Horse Heaven Hills, 50 cases, 14.4% alc., $30

Excellent. Prosser’s Jarrod Boyle grew the

cough syrup and saddle leather lead into a structure of sugared blackberries and ample acidity make this an easy quaffer to be enjoyed within two years.

grapes and Ray McKee started making the wine, but Boyle has taken over for McKee at this winery, which donates its proceeds to the Make The Dash Count Foundation. The nose features blueberries, cherries, cedar, eucalyptus and white pepper. Pie cherries and raspberries take over on the well-balanced palate that’s capped by plums and tart pie cherries.

Tildio Winery

Northwest Totem Cellars

2006 Syrah

2006 Grenache

Columbia Valley, 195 cases, 14.0% alc., $27

Yakima Valley, 30 cases, 14.4% alc., $30

Outstanding! Katy Perry shows here why she

Excellent. Here marks the first effort with this

received our 2008 Washington Winery to Watch award. First comes a big whiff of Bing cherries, mocha, hazelnuts, cola and some leather. The flavors are deep with more ripe Bing cherries and the structure is quite silky with creamy

grape for this Woodinville, Wash., and it’s full of purple tones, starting with aromas of plums, blueberries, lilac, cloves, anise and vanilla bean. More purple fruit is in store on the youthful, almost nouveau, delivery, backed by black

2005 Syrah Yakima Valley, 615 cases, 14.9% alc., $19

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Excellent. Owen and Sullivan continue to raise

Rogue Valley, 482 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

Lost River Winery

chocolate, yielding a delicious Syrah with gorgeous balance.

Recommended. Aromas of milk chocolate, cherry

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/4/09

4:45 PM

Page 87

recent releases cherries, balanced tannins and a crack of black pepper.

Three Rivers Winery 2007 Grenache Wahluke Slope, 140 cases, 14.2% alc., $29

Excellent. The Milbrandt brothers grew the

Grenache at Clifton Vineyard and the Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) at Katherine Leone, and Holly Turner took it from there. She's a beauty from the first glance with the bright garnet color. The aromas are alluring with hints of blackberry, blueberry, cherry vanilla, chocolate and peppercorns, and the attraction smacks you in the lips with more blackberries and boysenberries. There a playful slap from drying tannins, then a lift of citrus acidity and a cherry kiss goodbye.

Other reds Dry Falls Cellars 2007 Barbera Wahluke Slope, 55 cases, 14% alc., $25

Outstanding! Jim Englar leads this family-focused

winery near the abandoned Japan Air Lines hangar in Moses Lake, and he works in small lots with distinctive results. Here’s a collaboration with Rosebud Ranch for a lively version of an Italian variety that profiles bright red fruit. Aromas of strawberries, sweet cherries and slate funnel into a juicy and complex structure dominated by pie cherries with the acidity to match. Red currants and green peppercorns fill in the edges of a wine that screams for a stuffed meatball pizza.

Dry Falls Cellars 2007 Cinsault Wahluke Slope, 20 cases, 13.8% alc., $28

Outstanding! With this small of production — less than one barrel — it got a lot of attention, and it shows. The dark garnet color draws your eye, and the oak borders on distracting, yet it’s easy to sniff out sweet cherries, raspberries and cranberries with a nice crushed leaf component and cinnamon. It’s a lighter style with a broad structure and bold flavors of cranberries, rhubarb, cherries and ripe plums. Earthiness and acidity show on the palate rather than oak and tannin. Enjoy with gourmet mac and cheese.

Wedge Mountain Winery 2007 Lemberger Columbia Valley, 61 cases, 12.7% alc., $26

Excellent. HRP Vineyards in Prosser, Wash.,

produced the fruit for Charlie McKee’s smooth offering. Inviting vanilla and allspice aromas swirl around Rainier cherries. The drink centers on more cherries and marionberries with foodfriendly acidity that links to a finish of bittersweet chocolate.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Block 20 Malbec

late in the aromas. In the mouth are monstrous amounts of black cherries, almonds, mocha and espresso, yet there’s nice acidity and managed tannins for balance. Too much of a good thing? Take two glasses and call us in the morning.

Dry Falls Cellars Horse Heaven Hills, 100 cases, 14.2% alc., $22

2005 Proprietor’s Limited Release Malbec

Recommended. It’s rare to find this Spanish vari-

Yakima Valley, 427 cases, 13.4% alc., $20

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Randy Finley

remains committed to Lonesome Springs, Crawford and Ranch at the End of the Road. The sites allowed him to make one of the Northwest’s least-expensive and most approachable wines from this Bordeaux variety, blended with Merlot (6%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Syrah. Inviting spice, moist earth and leather aromas are enhanced by delicate raspberry flavors and a complex yet sublime structure with balance and a touch of sweetness.

ety made in the U.S., and here’s a good introduction that spent 24 months in barrel. Notes of blueberry and huckleberries are joined by rich earth, tobacco, black olive, green peppercorn, celery leaf and Worcestershire sauce in a structure that accents acidity over tannin in a foodfriendly fashion. Suggested fare includes Latininfluenced dishes and strongly flavored meats.

RoxyAnn Winery 2005 Tempranillo Rogue Valley, 126 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

Recommended. More folks in Southern Oregon

are jumping aboard Abacela’s Temp train, and this Medford, Ore., winery shows its commitment with estate fruit. Rainier cherries, chocolate, plums, lavender and violet notes tumble into chalky tannins that will match well with a slab of meaty lasagna.

Tildio Winery 2006 Malbec Columbia Valley, 124 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Excellent. Bottled as Malbec from Stillwater

Creek Vineyard near Royal City, Wash., it includes a good dose of Cabernet Sauvignon (20%). Bing cherries and toasted oak notes come together smoothly and with balance.

Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Zweigelt Idaho, 120 cases, 12.5% alc., $16

H/H Estates

Excellent. An Austrian crossed Lemberger with

2004 Reserve Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 267 cases, 14.7% alc., $28

Recommended. This reserve label of Coyote

Canyon Winery in Prosser showcases barrel tones of cloves and teriyaki, but there’s also a rush of raspberry and strawberry jam flavors that create a nice finish and inspiring thoughts of pairing it with roasted pork loin served with a cherry compote.

Inniskillin Okanagan

the variety knowns as Saint Laurent and came up with this immensely food-friendly wine. Scott DeSeelhorst has grown this variety in his remarkable vineyard for several years. It starts with big blackberries, Rainier cherries, chalkboard dust, cherry tomato and a squirt of citrus. A pleasing cherry entry is followed by chocolate and leather nuances. It’s not overpowered by oak, and the blueberry acidity makes it sturdy for beef or buffalo.

Red blends

2006 Discovery Series Sangiovese Okanagan Valley, 94 cases, 13.5% alc., $30 CDN

Outstanding! Sandor Mayer’s team claims this is his first vintage of Sangiovese in the Okanagan. It seems almost too good to be true. You are greeted by a deep magenta color, then hints of plums, cassis, blueberries, a barista’s mocha and Doc Constantine’s Bruised Violet oil. More black fruit and plum jam run through the chewy, but not overpowering, tannins.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Member’s Only Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 75 cases, 14.6% alc., $45

Recommended. This blend of Rhône varieties —

Grenache (49%), Mourvèdre (33%), Syrah (13%) and Roussanne — shows some charm, starting with its base of cherries and backing

Mannina Cellars 2006 Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley, 232 cases, 13.6% alc., $22

Excellent. Clusters from Pepper Bridge, Seven

Hills and Birch Creek make for an inviting bouquet of cherries and blueberries wrapped in sweet oak. It’s mighty juicy, mouth filling and nicely balanced on the palate with those cherries and berries, chased by deep rich chocolate in the finish.

Northwest Totem Cellars

Outstanding! Want to know the taste of hedo-

2005 Sangiovese

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

cranberries, raspberries, green tea and showy oak. The smooth and expressive palate centers on raspberries, cassis and loganberry with pleasing and ripe tannins.

2005 Reserve Tempranillo

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

Horse Heaven Hills, 205 cases, 13.9% alc., $30

nism? Jarrod Boyle shows you with a drink of this well-made estate release. Penetrating black fruit and dark oak tones embrace the senses, including a wrap of leather and choco-

WINE REVIEWS

Yakima Valley, 37 cases, 14.3% alc., $30

Excellent. Mike Sharadin in Woodinville, Wash.,

adroitly incorporates Syrah (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), achieving perfumy aromas of

Experience the Northwest’s Best Wine Store • Over 5,000 wines • Discount prices • Free local delivery • We ship UPS • Call for free mailer • Private wine lockers • Secured access • Climate controlled • Convenient location

2700 Fourth Avenue South Seattle, WA (206) 682-7374 • (888) 682-WINE www.esquin.com

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

WINE REVIEWS

2:37 PM

Page 88

recent releases NORTHWEST WINE REGIONS

Northwest appellations The following are official viticultural regions in the Pacific Northwest.

Washington Columbia Valley: This multi-state appellation is 11 million acres in size and takes up a third of Washington. It encompasses the Yakima and Walla Walla valleys, Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills, Wahluke Slope and Snipes Mountain. It was established in 1984. Yakima Valley: The Northwest’s oldest appellation (established in 1983) stretches from Wapato in the west to Benton City in the east and includes Red Mountain and Rattlesnake Hills. The Yakima Valley has about 11,000 acres of wine grapes. Walla Walla Valley: This multi-state appellation is in the southeast corner of Washington. The Walla Walla Valley is 300,000 acres in size with about 1,000 acres of wine grapes planted. It was established in 1984. Red Mountain: Washington’s smallest appellation is a ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley. It is 4,040 acres in size with about 800 acres of mostly red wine grapes planted. It was established in 2001. Horse Heaven Hills: This large appellation — 570,000 acres — is south of the Yakima Valley and stretches to the Oregon border. It has more than 6,000 acres of wine grapes planted. It was established in 2005. Wahluke Slope: Approved in early 2006, this huge landform north of the Yakima Valley is an 81,000-acre gravel bar created by the Ice Age Floods. More than 5,000 acres are planted in this AVA, which is one of the warmest regions in the entire Pacific Northwest. It was established in 2006. Rattlesnake Hills: This appellation is in the western Yakima Valley north of the towns of Zillah, Granger and Outlook.The appellation is 68,500 acres in size with about 1,300 acres of vineyards. It was established in 2006. Puget Sound: This sprawling appellation is in Western Washington. It stretches from the Olympia area to the Canadian border north of Bellingham. It also sweeps through the San Juan Islands and to Port Angeles. Fewer than 100 acres of wine grapes are planted. It was established in 1995. Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation begins around the town of Lyle and heads west to Husum on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It was established in 2004. Snipes Mountain: One of Washington’s oldest wine-growing regions is now an official appellation. At 4,145 acres in size, it is the state’s second-smallest AVA, after Red Mountain. However, at just 535 acres of planted grapes, it is the smallest growing region. Grapes have been grown on Snipes Mountain and at the adjacent Harrison Hill (also part of the AVA) since 1914. This AVA is within the Yakima Valley appellation and was approved in 2009.

Oregon Willamette Valley: Oregon’s largest appellation stretches roughly from Portland to Eugene. It was established in 1984. Ribbon Ridge: This is the Northwest’s smallest appellation at 3,350 acres. It is best known for its Pinot Noir and is within the Chehalem Mountains AVA. It was established in 2005. Yamhill-Carlton District: This appellation has more than 650 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir. It is a horseshoe-shaped appellation that surrounds the towns of Yamhill and Carlton. It was established in 2005. Chehalem Mountains: The most-recently approved Oregon AVA also is the largest within the Willamette Valley. This 62,100-acre appellation is northeast of the Dundee Hills. It was established in 2006.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

Dundee Hills: Many of Oregon’s pioneer wineries are in the Dundee Hills within Oregon’s Yamhill County. The appellation is 6,490 acres in size with nearly 1,300 acres of planted vineyards. It was established in 2005. Eola-Amity Hills: This important region stretches from the town of Amity in the north to the capital city of Salem in the southeast. It is 37,900 acres in size and has 1,300 acres planted. It was established in 2006. McMinnville: The hills south and west of the Yamhill County city of McMinnville are more than 40,000 acres in size and contains about 600 acres of wine grape vineyards. It was established in 2005. Umpqua Valley: This Southern Oregon appellation surrounds the city of Roseburg north of the Rogue Valley. It can produce Pinot Noir as well as warm-climate grapes. It was established in 1984. Rogue Valley: The Northwest’s southern-most appellation surrounds the cities of Medford and Ashland, just north of the California border. It is known for its warm growing conditions. It was established in 2001. Applegate Valley: This small valley within the Rogue Valley is known for a multitude of microclimates that can result in wines of distinction and complexity. It was established in 2004. Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation is around and south of the city of Hood River. It was established in 2004. Southern Oregon: This large AVA encompasses the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys and Red Hill Douglas County appellations. It was established in 2005. Red Hill Douglas County: This tiny appellation — just 5,500 acres — is within the Umpqua Valley. Fewer than 200 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir, are grown here. It was established in 2005. Columbia Valley: This multi-state appellation is 11 million acres in size. It is mostly in Washington but also dips into Oregon along the cities of The Dalles, Boardman and Hermiston. Walla Walla Valley: This multi-state appellation is in the southeast corner of Washington and northeast section of Oregon, around the town of Milton-Freewater. In fact, many of the appellation’s most famous vineyards (Seven Hills, for example) are on the Oregon side of the border. Snake River Valley: The Northwest’s newest appellation is in southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon. It covers 8,263 square miles and was established in 2007.

British Columbia Okanagan Valley: In the province’s interior, this 100-mile valley stretches from the border in Osoyoos to Salmon Arm in the north. Most wineries are near Oliver, Penticton and Kelowna. It was established in 1990. Spelling note: In Washington, the county, river and city are spelled “Okanogan.” Similkameen Valley: This warm valley is west of the southern Okanagan Valley. It was established in 1990. Vancouver Island: This marine-influenced appellation is in the southwest part of the province. It was established in 1990. Fraser Valley: This farming area is in the Lower Mainland, south of Vancouver. It was established in 1990. Gulf Islands: This appellation, the province’s newest, includes approximately 100 islands spread out between Vancouver Island and the southern mainland. It was established in 2005.

Idaho Snake River Valley: The Northwest’s newest appellation is in southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon. It is 8,263 square miles and includes vineyards near the cities of Nampa and Caldwell, west of Boise. It was approved in 2007.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:38 PM

Page 89

recent releases from hints of chocolate, horehound and herbal tea.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2003 Dionysus Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13.8% alc., $45

Excellent. Few wines in the Northwest spend 36

months in French oak, but Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels shows the patience and dedication in this tribute to Dionysus Vineyard along the Columbia River. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (20%), Cab Franc (15%) and Malbec also taps into Conner Lee, Bacchus and Stillwater Creek to produce massive amounts of chocolate-covered cherries, blackberries and cassis that finish in a rich manner.

Dunham & Froese Estate Winery 2006 Amicitia Red Wine Okanagan Valley, 97 cases, 14.0% alc., $28 CDN

Excellent. It means "friendship" in Latin, and the

wine could legally be called Merlot (86%), but the Syrah (14%) gives it a nice nudge. Blueberry, dried cherries, rose hips, alfalfa, saddle leather in spearmint aromatics pour into more blueberries on the tongue. From the midpalate on back, it’s more along dried cherries and dried plums along the European fashion. Suggested fare includes pork or an oily fish, or try grilled meats plated with a cherry balsamic reduction sauce.

E.B. Foote Winery Nonvintage Etc. Red Wine Columbia Valley, 432 cases, 14.5% alc., $18

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2006 Calico Red Wine

Excellent. Sherrill Miller markets most of her bot-

Amber Lane’s production in Walla Walla goes into this wine, and Steffen Jorgesen delivers the goods by blending Merlot (36%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Syrah (25%), Zinfandel (7%) and Cab Franc from eight vineyards and three appellations. It’s brimming with hints of Bing cherries, crushed herbs, chocolate, stewed plums in a mouth-coating fashion.

tles at this price, gets much of her fruit from Graves and the Milbrandt brothers, and the wines are consistently good. This forges ahead with Zinfandel (63%), followed by Syrah (11%), Merlot (11%), Cabernet Sauvignon (9%) and Cab Franc. It broadcasts blackberry preserves, blueberry jam, black walnuts, black pepper and tea, with more of the same fruit on the brightly structured and piquant palate. It’s finished with pleasing oak and plums with a hint of eucalyptus.

Cathedral Ridge Winery

E.B. Foote Winery

Columbia Valley, 3,500 cases, 14.2% alc.

Excellent. Nearly half of Annette Bergevin and

2006 Rock Star Red Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.4% alc., $44

Recommended. An even split of Cabernet

Sauvignon and Syrah, it's zesty yet smooth with black cherries and acai berries, lime peel and sun-dried tomatoes. It's built for the long haul but will best be enjoyed in the meantime at the dinner table with tomato-based Italian dishes.

2006 Northwest Duet Columbia Valley, 337 cases, 13.8% alc., $18

Outstanding! A 54/46 split of Cabernet Sauvignon from Graves and Milbrandt vineyards, respectively, offers robust aromas of plums, Dr Pepper, lilacs and chalkboard dust. It’s an elegant drink with more plums and cola, backed by cinnamon and high-toned cherries on the rich midpalate and chased with dusty tannins.

WINE REVIEWS

this for the great horned owls who return to his vineyard each year. Black cherries, cassis, blueberries and a Hershey’s Kiss waft about. Inside, it’s a fledgling fruit bomb with cooked black cherries on the luscious entry, nice leafiness and firm tannins on the midpalate and late food-friendly acidity from blueberries. Enjoy it with steaks or burgers.

Hestia Cellars 2005 Meritage Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 14.6% alc., $40

Excellent. The commitment to quality is obvious

with this rising winery in Carnation, Wash., targeting Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills for the entire blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Cab Franc (30%) and Malbec. It’s a beguiling nose of blueberries, a handful of brambleberries with a leaf, talus and a cherry Dot. Cranberries and Rainier cherries join the berries and the Dots on the nicely knit structure where racy acidity and chalky tannins will fare well with braised ribs.

Hightower Cellars 2006 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 196 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Recommended. This Red Mountain winery pushes

forward with Merlot (88%) then Cabernet Sauvignon for results that feature Bing cherries, unripe blackberries, fresh-brewed mocha, drying tannins and a finish of bittersweet chocolate.

Holmes Harbor Cellars 2006 Teragré Red Etude Washington, 56 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Excellent. Greg Martinez set up his new winery

2005 Artist Series Meritage Red Wine

Columbia Valley, 266 cases, 13.3% alc., $18

on Whidbey Island, and this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir shows aromas of pie cherries, dark brown toast and some vanilla. The drink is big on Bing cherries with chocolate cake on the midpalate and a hint of soy sauce in the fine finish.

Columbia Valley, 1,400 cases, 14.3% alc., $48

Excellent. For this edition, Sherrill Miller leads

Excellent. British Columbia painter Bobbie

with 2007 Syrah (86%) from Milbrandt and back-blends with 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from Graves. Think of a Hostess cherry pie when sniffing, then strawberries and raspberries when tasting. Good acidity, low alcohol and exciting tannins provide excellent coverage.

Jacksonville Vineyards

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Burgers is the featured artist for the 13th edition of this release, which marks the first time that Merlot (57%) leads this picturesque melange of Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Malbec. Dark brambleberries, espresso, vanilla bean and chocolate frame the aromatics, and the vibrant canvas is filled with juicy boysenberries and blueberries with bittersweet chocolate and slightly drying tannins.

Coyote Canyon Winery 2006 Coyote Canyon Vineyards Tres Cruces Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 224 cases, 14.6% alc., $18

Outstanding! It translates to “Three Crosses,” and

Mike Andrews blended three Rhône varieties — Syrah (60%), Grenache (30%) and Mourvèdre. It drinks more like a Bordeaux laced with hightoned red fruit. Very inviting aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and cocoa powder speak to more of the same on the palate. Indeed, there’s a wonderful cherry character with hints of blueberry, nice acidity, little in the way of tannin or oak, and a bit of herbal note for wide food applications. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

E.B. Foote Winery Nonvintage Rainy Red V

Eleven Winery 2006 La Ronde Red Wine Washington, 111 cases, 13.5% alc., $27

Outstanding! Matt Albee hits on a blend that’s off the beaten path, but he takes Malbec (40%), Syrah (40%) and Petit Verdot down a road for sightseers. Keep your mind open for signs of boysenberries, plums, lavender, blood orange, chocolate and tobacco lead. Pull in for a rich drink of more boysenberries, marionberries and black cherries. On the shoulder are tamed tannins and then a lengthy driveway of chocolatecovered orange peel.

Fairview Cellars 2007 Two Hoots Red Wine Okanagan Valley, 450 cases, 14.4% alc., $25 CDN

Excellent. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%),

Merlot (25%) and Cab Franc, Bill Eggert names

2005 Claret Applegate Valley, 200 cases, 14.5% alc., $23

Recommended. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon

(50%), Merlot (36%), Cab Franc (10%) and Malbec, this Southern Oregon release will appeal to those who gravitate to the richness of oak, black cherries and enjoy a good blackberry malt. There’s also an enjoyable feel of wooly tannins in the midpalate.

Kyra Wines 2006 PSV Red Wine Wahluke Slope, 330 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Outstanding! It stands for Purple Sage Vineyard, which is the young estate vineyard for Kyra Baerlocher, who first put Moses Lake on the Washington state wine map. She leads with Merlot (80%), followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and Sangiovese (6%), and the brightness from that Italian variety seems to shine through. Cherries, strawberries, tarragon and mint awaken the senses. Red tones carry onto the tongue and all the way through with cola in the midpalate and not much oak at any point for this well-made wine.

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

WINE REVIEWS

2:38 PM

Page 90

recent releases

Lost River Winery Columbia Valley, 299 cases, 14.5% alc., $26

nicely integrated oak. Juicy black cherries find solid balance, and the sendoff is carried by leather, tar and plums.

Excellent. Blackberry aromas with coffee, fresh-

O•S Winery

2006 Cedarosa Red Wine

cut alder and juniper are easily found in this blend of Merlot (55%) and Cabernet Franc. The real payoff comes in the very delicious entry of Bing cherries and blackberries. It’s an opulent drink with subdued acidity and tannin.

Mannina Cellars 2006 Cali Red Table Wine Walla Walla Valley, 716 cases, 13.5% alc., $17

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Don Redman named this after his grandmother and doubled production over the previous vintage. That was a great idea because there are several layers to this mix of Cab Sauv (55%), Merlot (42%) and Syrah. Black currant jam, bacon, toasted oak, black pepper, crushed leaf and asparagus off the grill fill the nostrils. It’s rich, jammy and delicious all the way with more currants and loganberries. The tannin structure is nicely toned with lots of acidity and a smooth and supple finish.

Martinez & Martinez Winery 2005 Cesár Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 104 cases, 14.8% alc., $28

Excellent. Nearly 30 years ago, Sergio Martinez

helped plant vines in Phinny Hill. Now, he’s making wine in Prosser, Wash. This blend from Alder Ridge is named for his grandson and leads with Cabernet Sauvignon (82%), Merlot (11%), Lemberger (6%) and Syrah. Hints of cherry and plum easily come through the toasted oak aromas. It’s smooth, juicy and tasty with more plums, blackberries and cassis.

Nicholas Cole Cellars 2005 Camille Columbia Valley, 764 cases, 14.6% alc., $45

Excellent. Wines from this vintage should be

cherished, and the broad shoulders of this oakembossed blend of Merlot (45%) Cabernet Franc (28), Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) and Petit Verdot can bear the wait. Black cherries, chocolate, pencil shavings and maple nut ice cream set the mouth watering. Inside it’s a slice of black cherry pie a la mode, backed by hefty tannins and a delicious chocolate finish.

Nk’Mip Cellars 2006 Qwam Qwmt Meritage Okanagan Valley, 1,822 cases, 14.5% alc., $33 CDN

Recommended. A blend of Merlot (60%),

Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cab Franc offers up a big load of blackberries, blueberries, black cherries and chocolate malt, and there’s a strong and long embrace from French (80%) and American oak with pronounced tannins. Enjoy this with a juicy porterhouse or a slice of rare prime rib.

Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Qo-ne Red Wine Columbia Valley, 80 cases, 13.9% alc., $30

Outstanding! Mike Sharadin first grabbed our attention for the glass cork. Now, it’s for what’s below the stopper. This big blend of Cabernet Franc (65%), Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), Syrah (9%) and Petit Verdot shakes you with blueberry, black cherries, cedar, leather and

2006 Red Wine

extraction featuring a concentration of blackberries, black walnuts, chocolate covered cherries and a scrape of vanilla bean. Pleasing sweetness combined with its youthful structure suggests decanting, and you'll drink it down quickly.

Columbia Valley, 853 cases, 14.5% alc., $17

RoxyAnn Winery

Excellent. Bill Owen works magic near Boeing

2006 Claret

Field to blend Merlot (36%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), Cabernet Franc (29%) and Petit Verdot for a wine rich with high-toned red fruit, cherry cola, white strawberries and oregano aromas. Dr Pepper and pie cherry flavors showcase the bright acidity and smooth tannins.

Rogue Valley, 1,993 cases, 14.2% alc., $26

Patit Creek Cellars

RoxyAnn Winery

2006 Trinité Red Wine

2006 Sky Hill Red Wine

Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.0% alc., $25

Rogue Valley, 74 cases, 14.3% alc., $35

Outstanding! This winery moved from Dayton to

Excellent. Subtle use of neutral oak allows the estate fruit to shine in Gus Janeway’s blend of three Rhône varieties — Syrah (65%), Grenache (30%) and Viognier. Hand-picked strawberries, juicy cherries, pomegranate, blackcap raspberries, cocoa powder and brown sugar sing in a well-made but not overdone fashion.

Walla Walla last year and the winemaker drove to Den Hoed Vineyards in Prosser for this Rhône-style blend of Syrah (44%), Grenache (31%) and Mourvèdre (25%). French vanilla, earth, bacon aromas lead to a lip-smacking combination of dark cherries, white chocolate, pepper and bold tannins. The owners suggest pairing this with intense cheese or braised meat. Both can be had back in Dayton at Monteillet Fromagery and Patit Creek Restaurant, respectively.

Pondera Winery 2005 Melvado Red Wine Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 15.3% alc., $23

Excellent. Shane Howard’s entry-level Bordeaux

blend of Merlot (48%), Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Cab Franc features a nose of plums, black cherries, horehound, mocha and licorice. Bright plums flavors spin out in a single note, but it’s nice note.

Pondera Winery

Excellent. This estate blend of Merlot (40%),

Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Cab Franc disperses aromas and flavors of raspberries, cranberries, cocoa powder and crushed leaf for a medium-bodied drink that includes bright acidity and robust tannins.

See Ya Later Ranch 2006 Ping Okanagan Valley, 3,400 cases, 14.5% alc., $30 CDN

Outstanding! One of the Okanagan Valley’s more fanciful labels and striking packages under screwcap is this marriage officiated by Dave Carson of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and Cabernet Franc. Aromas are those of Cherry Garcia ice cream, blueberry fruit leather and minerality. Lush cherries and blueberries bounce across the palate with a fair amount of sweetness and acidity before chocolaty tannins hop on for the ride across a finish of forest floor. The structure and balance should keep this afloat for three to five years.

2006 Salon Series Red Wine

Snake River Winery

Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 14.5% alc., $28

2003 Reserve Red Wine

Outstanding! From Kirkland, Wash., comes a

Idaho, 13.9% alc., 230 cases, $26

young boutique operation committed to red blends. In fact, he could legally label this as Syrah (75%), and it’s backed by Merlot (12%), Sangiovese (7%) and Cabernet Franc. Welcome the mouthful of crushed raspberries along with Assam black team and plums in a juicy fashion, capped by drizzle of milk chocolate.

Excellent. Scott DeSeelhorst’s blend of Bordeaux

Pondera Winery

varieties features Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (15%), Malbec (11%) and Cabernet Franc. High-toned red fruit aromas are joined by green peppercorns, oregano and mincemeat. Raspberries continue the theme on the palate with medium-ripe blackberries, coffee bean tannins and a big chocolate finish.

2005 Sericus Red Wine

Soos Creek Wine Cellars

Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 14.85% alc., $30

2006 Artist Series Red

Outstanding! It means “silk,” in Latin, and there’s

Columbia Valley, 325 cases, 14.1% alc., $32

no argument here. Aromas emitted by the blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cabernet Franc are reminiscent of blueberries, Stretch Island Fruit Co. Harvest Grape fruit leather, juniper and gun metal. Then it's a shotgun blast of rich blackberries, blueberry taffy and some coffee, with lovely tannins and bright acidity.

Excellent. The sixth edition of David Larsen’s

Quinta Ferreria Estate Winery

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) and Cabernet Franc comes from Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, Winebau and Dineen vineyards and begins with inviting fruit and oak aromas. The devotion to Cab Franc shows with the lighter structure, which offers blackberry, blueberry and red currant flavors with easy tannins and a bit of chocolate at the end.

2006 Obra-Prima Red Wine

Tasawik Vineyards

Okanagan Valley, 433 cases, 14.2% alc., $35 CDN

2005 Estate Reserve Red

Recommended. A melange of Cabernet Sauvignon

Walla Walla County, 96 cases, 13.7% alc., $34

(48%), Merlot (42%) and Malbec shows deep

Outstanding! Erik Dahle and Sara Broejte grow

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:38 PM

Page 91

recent releases their estate grapes near the Snake River but set up shop at The Winemaker’s Loft in Prosser. This marks their first commercial vintage and they credit Cecil Zerba and Mike Haddox for helping with this blend of Merlot (49%), Cabernet Sauvignon (49%) and Cab Franc. Bing cherries, French-press coffee and cracked allspice aromas turn into more cherries and cola flavors. A super barrel program creates a creamy fudge midpalate with some coffee and leather notes, and zippy acidity brightens it all up.

Tildio Winery 2006 El Buho Red Wine Columbia Valley, 173 cases, 14.4% alc., $25

Excellent. This wife/husband team in Chelan,

Wash., uses the Spanish word for owl to honor the great horned owls on their estate for this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah. The Rhône grape shows itself in the nose of blackberries, backed by huckleberries, nutmeg and toasted oak. On the palate, the Cab and Merlot take over in bold fashion with black cherries, showing nice tannin grip and acidity with lots of chocolate in the finish.

Wapato Point Cellars 2005 Red Delicious Red Wine Columbia Valley, 936 cases, 13.4 alc.%, $26

Excellent. A tribute to the family’s background in

the orchards, this blend of Syrah (69%), Sangiovese (26%) and Merlot comes off Home, Kestrel and the estate Cougar Ridge vineyards. Notes of plums, NyQuil, chalkboard dust, bay rum spice and bell pepper run inside and out of this juicy quaffer.

Woodinville Wine Cellars 2005 Ausonius Washington, 200 cases, 14.3% alc., $35

Recommended. An assemblage of Cabernet

Sauvignon (47%), Cabernet Franc (45%) and Malbec shows itself as dark currants, blueberries, stewed cherries and a nice herbal note. It’s a big bold-drinking wine with rich tannins.

Woodinville Wine Cellars 2006 Little Bear Creek Red Wine Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Excellent. This second label is on the fanciful

side, but the vineyards behind the wine are serious players — Chandler Reach, Dineen, Meek and Stillwater Creek. Rainier cherries make for bright aromas with boysenberries and chocolate. It’s a pretty rich drink with more cherries, nice tannins and a piece of Aussie black licorice in the finish.

Port-style Samson Estate Oro Hazelnut Port-style Dessert Wine Washington, 18% alc., $11

Recommended. In Italian, it means “gold,” and in

Oregon they refer to the nuts as filberts, but these hazelnut come from an orchard near this Lynden, Wash., winery. Indeed, it’s as if you have coffee in your wine glass. There also are hints of a vanilla ice cream sandwich and the yellow cake in a Boston cream pie. Suggested W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WINE REVIEWS

applications range from eggnog to coffee or drizzled over vanilla ice cream.

picks up. It finishes dry with a bit of orange peel.

Wild Goose Vineyards

Coeur d’Alene Cellars

2007 Black Brandt

2007 Chardonnay

Okanagan Valley, 150 cases, 17.8% alc., $20 CDN

Washington, 358 cases, 14.3% alc., $20

Outstanding! Hagen Kruger annually masters this

Outstanding! Warren Schutz spends a great deal of time driving between Idaho’s Lake City and Washington’s wine country, in this case, Stillwater Creek, Lonesome Springs and Smasne vineyards. The miles are worth it, beginning with aromas of inviting oak, cotton candy, creamy butterscotch and a hint of citrus. The mouth feel is amazingly smooth and creamy, then the fruit arrives with Pink Lady apples, tropical acidity and grapefruit peel in the finish. Enjoy this with crabcakes.

production made from Maréchal Foch. It’s an easy Port-like wine to like because it doesn’t overpower, yet it remains intriguing and satisfying. There’s a sense of black currants, Concord grapes, cigar tobacco, vanilla bean and cough syrup. It is tasty right down to its jammy sweet finish.

Whites Chardonnay

Herder Winery & Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay

Carabella Vineyard

Okanagan Valley, 350 cases, 13% alc., $20 CDN

2006 Dijon 76 Clone Chardonnay

Excellent. This rising operation in the

Chehalem Mountains, 365 cases, 14.7% alc., $28

Similkameen Valley town of Keremeos created a wine that becomes more attractive with each glance. Bartlett pear, apricot, orange marmalade, jicama, Timothy hay and jicama only begin to describe its cologne. Anjou pear, more marmalade, beeswax and buttery notes are on the attack, but juicy gooseberry acidity takes over almost immediately with pleasing minerality, then a candied citrus peel finish. Lightly flavored pasta dishes will bring out even more in this wine.

Recommended. Estate fruit gives Mike Hallock

total control, and it shows with aromas of baked apple, pineapple, starfruit and toast. The extraction and French oak show on the palate with mouth-coating banana on the entry, fresh-cut pineapple and citrus in the midpalate, followed by butterscotch and orange pith in the finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Ethos Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 2,400 cases, 14.1% alc., $32

L’Ecole No. 41

Excellent. The estate Canoe Ridge Vineyard in

2007 Chardonnay

the Horse Heaven Hills dominates the makeup at 70%, and it’s unmistakably a reserve-style Chardonnay from the get-go with bright, buttery oak aromas and hints of sliced pineapple. Drink in tropical flavors with apples and mashed banana on the rounded palate. The big style is definitely a cocktail, but try it with salmon fettucini.

Columbia Valley, 4,040 cases, 14.3% alc., $21

Chehalem Wines

Excellent. This is a fitting example from this lit-

tle French school house in Lowden, Wash. Apples and pears with tropical fruit and warm oak set the table for a sip of more tropical flavors and a bite of a Pink Lady apple. It’s an easy and beautiful drink with butterscotch in the finish.

Mercer Estates

2005 Ian’s Reserve Chardonnay

2007 Chardonnay

Oregon, 317 cases, 14.5% alc., $34

Excellent. Harry Peterson-Nedry pays tribute to

his late son each vintage with this Chardonnay, and he goes old-school with the cork enclosure. It’s 100% from Dijon clones, and the mix of Stoller and Corral Creek sites produces alluring aromas of lemon custard, pineapple, apples, butter and a trace of minerality. The drink is delightful and dry with cream on the front half and citrusy acidity on the back to give it cellar potential.

Chehalem Wines

Columbia Valley, 6,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $17

Outstanding! David Forsyth sourced five vineyards and blended 12% from stainless steel to provide a balanced and delicious Chardonnay. Inviting pear and tropical aromas are backed by a deft touch of oak. Apples, pears and mangoes abound in the rich pleasing mouth feel from French oak and surlie aging, but pleasing citrus acidity creates the crucial balance. And Forysth’s deployment of screwcap is a legacy of his years with Hogue Cellars.

2007 INOX Chardonnay

Oliver Twist Estate Winery

Willamette Valley, 7,187 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

2007 Chardonnay

Excellent. Slick packaging includes the sleek

Okanagan Valley, 340 cases, 13.9% alc., $20 CDN

look of screwcap, and Harry Peterson-Nedry employs the trademarked abbreviation for inoxidable, what the French call stainless steel fermentation. It’s stuffed with fruit from front to back, opening with hints of canned pineapple, candy corn, honeydew melon, orange and clean linen. There’s more sweet tropical fruit on the palate, and the honeydew comes in again before the spritzy acidity

Excellent. The style of Chardonnay that helped

make Kendall-Jackson famous seems to be continued at this young winery along British Columbia’s Golden Mile. Orchard fruit, gooseberry and toasted oak aromas circle into a mouthcoating sweet palate full of peaches, apricots and baked apples. Enough acidity and some apple peel in the finish help balance the oak. Serve with baked fish in a lemony sauce.

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

WINE REVIEWS

2:38 PM

Page 92

recent releases

Patit Creek Cellars 2007 Chardonnay Red Mountain, 149 cases, 14.5% alc., $19

Outstanding! Kiona Vineyards produced the fruit,

and winemaker Joe Forest didn’t get heavyhanded with the French oak. In fact, it’s all wonderful peach and orchard fruit aromas with a hint of orchard blossoms. Delicious pineapple and other tropical fruit flavors are ushered into a creamy finish. For a winery that didn’t release a white for its first nine years, this is a remarkable offering. Suggested pairings include fish, chicken or an Easter ham.

Ponzi Vineyards

clones 146 and 152 spent time in oak, but there’s a fascinating bit of shredded wheat component throughout, along with plenty of orchard and citrus fruit notes along with talus. It finishes clean with a drop Orange Crush.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2007 Pinot Gris Columbia Gorge, 14.2% alc., $18

Recommended. This established Hood River, Ore.,

winery offers up a bottling that blends oak with fruit in a pleasing mix of pears and green apples, backed by hints of grassiness and buttered popcorn.

2006 Reserve Chardonnay

Chehalem Wines

Willamette Valley, 1,250 cases, 13.9% alc., $30

2007 Pinot Gris

Excellent. The Ponzi family has crafted

Willamette Valley, 2,979 cases, 13.6% alc., $19

Chardonnay in this style for more than three decades, and this vintage from all sustainable sources ranked among the least stressful. It’s unmistakable in the glass with toasty oak, apple blossoms, citrus and crushed herb aromas. There’s rich presentation of oak on the palate with vanilla bean, but there’s plenty of complex flavors with pears, potato chips and citrusy acidity before a kiss of butterscotch candy in the finish that's not at all bitter.

Excellent. The three estate vineyards — Corral

San Juan Vineyards

Oregon, 76,000 cases, 13.0% alc., $17

2007 Reserve Chardonnay

Recommended. This Eugene landmark has been

Yakima Valley, 433 cases, 14.1% alc., $20

crafting this wine since 1991, and it continues to serve as a national ambassador for Pinot Gris from Oregon. The blend remains about 33% organic estate fruit and focuses on a profile of starfruit and citrus with flavors, acidity and food-friendly tartness.

Excellent. This island winery turned Kestrel

Vineyard fruit into a balanced Chardonnay that lures with notes of citrus, apples, white pepper and a bit of toasted oak.

Creek, Ridgecrest and Stoller — each play a part in this sizable production of striking Pinot Gris from Harry Peterson-Nedry. Orchard blossoms, jasmine tea and flint grow into fruit flavors of apples and pears with river rock notes and bright acidity in the finish.

King Estate 2007 Signature Collection Pinot Gris

Riesling Columbia Winery

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

2007 Small Lot Riesling

Fairview Cellars

Yakima Valley, 7,000 cases, 13% alc., $20

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

Outstanding! Kerry Norton took over at Columbia Winery with this vintage, and fruit from Art DenHoed and Red Willow vineyards made a delicious statement. Grapefruit, orange peel, pineapple juice and some pears peek out from the nose. It turns to a mouthcoating drink of pink grapefruit, ripe oranges and pumelo. A bit of residual sugar (1.3%) finds balance with bright acidity, making this an easy drink and fitting for spicy Asian cuisine.

Okanagan Valley, 300 cases, 13.5% alc., $19 CDN

Wapato Point Cellars 2007 Riesling Columbia Valley, 290 cases, 13.6% alc., $18

Outstanding! Inviting and refreshing are key fea-

tures to Riesling, and Manson, Wash., winemaker Jonathon Kludt delivers with this crop of Smasne Vineyard fruit. Pink Lady apples, lychee, honeysuckle, orange blossom, flint and rosewater get the mouth watering, and there’s a sweet entry of Red River pink grapefruit on the very expressive palate with baked apples at the midpoint before orangy acidity refreshes the tongue.

Pinot Gris Carabella Vineyard 2007 10th Anniversary Pinot Gris Chehalem Mountains, 1,750 cases, 12.4% alc., $16

Excellent. Only a third of this estate blend of

Outstanding! When done right, this Bordeaux variety can be as distinctive and remarkable as any wine. Bill Eggert’s winery near the golf course in Oliver, British Columbia, offers a prime example, and he credits Bruce Iverson’s organic vineyard in the Golden Mile. Aromatics jump out of the glass and they include gooesberry, river rock, chervil, tom cat and grapefruit rind. The laser beam of flavor includes hand-squeezed lemonade, celery stock in the midpalate, posture-straightening acidity and lemon pepper in the finish. There’s also a hint of lime margarita with the salt. This may be a bit edgy for some, but serve chilled on a hot day or enjoy as a palate cleanser for oysters or to cut through a cream sauce.

Tildio Winery 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.4% alc., $17

Excellent. This boutique winery in Washington’s

Lake Chelan area continues its success with Evergreen Vineyard near Quincy. A pour provides big aromas of citrus, tropical fruit and fresh-cut grass. Stainless steel treatment accents the sliced lemons and limes on the palate, joined by Granny Smith apples and just a touch of citrus pith at the end.

Fidelitas Wines 2007 Semillon Columbia Valley, 583 cases, 14.3% alc., $20

Excellent. Charlie Hoppes took grapes from Stillwater Creek and Rosebud vineyards, the wine ends up at his Red Mountain outpost. This is full of peaches, pears and apricots with mineral aromas. Flavors focus on more peaches and delicate apricots with refreshing citrusy acidity.

Hestia Cellars 2006 Semillon Columbia Valley, 65 cases, 13.7% alc., $25

Recommended. Charbonneau Vineyard in Walla

Walla County allowed this Western Washington winery to send out a straight forward and correct wine focused on starfruit, straw, flint and crisp pears with a creamy midpalate that’s capped by nice acidity to make this a solid food wine.

Viognier Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2007 L’Artiste Viognier Washington, 242 cases, 14.3% alc., $24

Excellent. Here’s the pride of this Idaho winery’s

white program, and it’s named after watercolor artist/co-owner Sarah Gates. Five well-respected Washington vineyards — Milbrandt, Stillwater Creek, Elephant Mountain, Lonesome Springs and McKinley Springs — produce aromatics of lemon custard, grapefruit, toasted oak and sweet marshmallow. There’s some rounded heft on the entry of tropical fruit, but the bright citrus acidity wipes away the viscous midpalate.

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2007 Viognier Washington, 424 cases, 14.3% alc., $20

Excellent. Here’s a hedonistic Viognier that’s

sure to please many of those willing to branch out from Chardonnay. Lemon, sandalwood and oregano aromas and flavors are done in a rich way within the structure that is opulent and oaky. Enjoy this with fowl or Mexican cuisine.

Three Rivers Winery

Columbia Winery

2007 Sauvignon Blanc

2007 Viognier

Columbia Valley, 714 cases, 14.5% alc., $19

Yakima Valley, 400 cases, 13.5%, $25

Excellent. Holly Turner labeled this as such, but

Recommended. This blend of famed Red Willow

there’s a good dose of Semillon (25%). The fruit was 100% from Klipsun Vineyard, and it all came off Aug. 30. Enough of the numbers. Aromas feature tangerines, honeysuckle, orchard fruit, balsa wood, star anise and cloves. Rich pineapple and Braeburn apples fill the round mouth, yielding to a finish of honeydew melon.

(75%) and Archie DenHoed vineyards could be mistaken for a Chardonnay as it opens with toasted coconut, linen, facial powder and citrus aromas. The palate is focused tightly on sweetened lemon and lime flavors, and it’s heightened enough by acidity for suggested pairings with curries or smoked meats.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:39 PM

Page 93

recent releases Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate

RoxyAnn Winery

2007 Proprietors’ Reserve Viognier

2007 Roussanne

Okanagan Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.1%, $18 CDN

Rogue Valley, 71 cases, 13% alc., $20

Excellent. Derek Kontkanen heads up the white

program, and he turned this fruit from Bull Pine Vineyard on the Osoyoos Lake Bench into a crowd-pleaser. Bosc pear, apricots, green JuJu candy, and a lot of minerality highlight the aromas. Tropical fruit forms the base of the luscious palate that features a midpalate of baked apple and finishes with tangerines and candy corn. Serve cold with lobster, scallops or mussels.

Outstanding! Southern Oregon vintner Gus Janeway used some Viognier (15%) to bring out the best in this wine from Carpenter Hill and Quail Run Pleasant View vineyards. His work created aromas of facial powder, peach, honeysuckle, orange peel, cantaloupe, flint and lemon meringue. He provides tropical fruit on the rich entry, then balances it with good acidity and caps it with a slice of Bosc pear and more cantaloupe in the finish.

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery

RoxyAnn Winery

2007 Viognier

Okanagan Valley, 165 cases, 14.2% alc., $17 CDN

Rogue Valley, 638 cases, 14.5% alc, $20

Recommended. An intoxicating assortment of

Outstanding! Rhône varieties seem to thrive in

pineapple, butterscotch, ginger and nutmeg aromas transition into enjoyable complexity on the palate with citrus on the front, creamy butterscotch in the middle, followed by a return of ginger and pleasing lemon in the farewell.

the Southern Oregon, and Gus Janeway does not stand in the way of the fruit. This opens with hints of peaches, pears and apples with tangerine, melons and a flinty minerality. Elegant and balanced begins to describe the entry of more peaches and melons with a mouth feel of vanilla cream. Then tangerines and Mandarin oranges provide a smooth layer of tartness.

Other whites 2007 Kerner Okanagan Valley, 1,200 cases, 13.5% alc., $18 CDN

Cadaretta Wines

Recommended. This winery near Oliver, B.C., works

2007 sbs

with this little-known German variety and is devoted to screwcap enclosures, hence the name. Many expressions are done for dessert, but this is not, and it’s filled with lemon, apples and cardamon. The spritely structure, minerality and rewarding bite of acidity well for white fish or oysters.

Chehalem Wines 2007 Stoller Vineyards Pinot Blanc Dundee Hills, 402 cases, 13.3% alc., $19

Recommended. One of the estate vineyards in

Harry Nedry-Peterson’s program produces a wine that’s clean and zesty with tones of orchard blossoms, pears, melon and tropical fruit such as guava, supported by pleasing minerality and acidity. It’s clean and zesty with subdued tropical fruit and nice acidity.

Maison Bleue Winery 2007 La Vallee du Soleil Roussanne Columbia Valley, 160 cases, 14.5% alc., $23

Recommended. A young operation in Prosser,

Wash., with French inspiration pays tribute with its “The Valley of the Sun” Rhône-style, incorporating Viognier (15%). Sandalwood, bent grass, fig, lemons and canned pineapple aromas. It’s quite approachable on the palate, dominated by Lemonhead candy, apricot preserves and more pineapple with late acidity to make it a friend to fish and chips or pork with a fruit salsa.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2007 Proprietor’s Limited Release Roussanne Yakima Valley, 216 cases, 14% alc., $20

Recommended. Crawford Vineyard in Prosser,

Wash., grew the Roussanne (79%) as well as the Marsanne (9%), Chardonnay (9%) and Muller-Thurgau for this exotic and off-dry. It’s top-loaded with apples, lychee, Timothy Hay and orange notes in a softer style. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Semillon than anyone in the Northwest. This debut bottling blends Sauvignon Blanc (30%) to offer tones of pineapple, apple and balanced oak with enough acidity for salads, fish and pasta.

O•S Winery 2007 Klipsun Vineyards S Red Mountain, 150 cases, 13% alc., $20

Recommended. Sauvignon Blanc (67%) leads this union with Semillon that spent a year in neutral oak. It begins with herbal aromas and a hint of apple blossoms, followed by flavors are of a fresh cut Pink Lady apple and a squeeze of orange acidity.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Oldfield’s Collection 2Bench White Okanagan Valley, 568 cases, 14.2% alc., $23 CDN

White blends

Oliver Twist Estate Winery

WINE REVIEWS

Recommended. Californian-born winemaker

Sandy Oldfield didn’t need to squeeze much for all the acidity to show itself in this wine as lemons, limes and their zest dominate the aromas and flavors. A note of sliced almond hints at some oak influence.

Wapato Point Cellars 2007 Harmony Chelan County, 490 cases, 13.8% alc., $19

Excellent. These folks in Manson, Wash., created

Columbia Valley, 702 cases, 14.1% alc., $23

Outstanding! The debut white of this Walla Walla winery is sewn together — Sauvignon Blanc (73%) with Semillon — beautifully by Virginie Bourgue. Aromatics from this blend of Arete Vineyard near Othello, Wash. and Spring Creek in the Yakima Valley feature citrus fruit with jasmine, lavender and Italian herbs. There’s more jasmine in the flavor with dried apricots, orange and pineapple acidity all the way to the far from bitter end. It saw no oak, and it should get a look at a plate of shellfish.

a match with Pinot Gris (63%) and Gewürztraminer (37%). It’s not shy with aromas of dusty orchard fruit, pineapples, lemongrass, melon and gooseberry. Sweetened pineapple creates some fatness on the palate before the gooseberry tartness and lemon pith take over. Suggested fare includes barbecued chicken or a picnic salad.

Rosés Airfield Estates 2007 Foot Stomped Syrah Rosé Yakima Valley, 200 cases, 13.3% alc., $16

Excellent. As the story goes, winemaker Marcus

Fidelitas Wines 2007 Optu Columbia Valley, 583 cases, 14.5% alc., $32

Outstanding! Charlie Hoppes brought in Sauvignon Blanc (54%) from Gamache and Semillon (46%) from Stillwater Creek and Rosebud for his top white wine. Sweet oak, apples and petrol aromas transition into more oak tones and rich tropical fruit with a touch of honey. The hallmark of this wine is it’s tremendous balance as the acidity cleans but doesn’t strip the fruit off the palate.

Miller grew bored with fielding tasting room questions regarding the stomping grapes so he produced a wine that is 100% foot-stomped. The label carries a caricature of a shapely flight attendent barefoot in a barrel. It’s a darker shade than most rosés and loaded with raspberries, plums and soft cherry flavors. It’s finished dry, but there’s plenty of fruit and balance to lend it to a hamburger or ribs.

Columbia Winery 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 400 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Inniskillin Okanagan 2007 Discovery Series Marsanne/Roussanne Okanagan Valley, 130 cases, 13.5% alc., $25 CDN

Recommended. One of British Columbia’s most

established wineries produced a delicious blend of these Rhône varieties that highlights Granny Smith apple, river rock, apple sauce and freshly cut green bell pepper in a sublime fashion with great minerality and apple peel bitterness for the dinner table.

L’Ecole No. 41

Excellent. Mike Sauer’s historic vineyard in the

east end of the Yakima Valley offered up a nice package to vintner Kerry Norton. Crushed strawberries, rhubarb, cranberries, cherry candy and a hint of grassiness set the table for bright and refreshing flavors that focus on the strawberry/rhubarb combination. The tart and chalky finish screams for a slab of Longhorn ribs or blackened salmon.

Eleven Winery 2007 La Primavera

2007 Seven Hills Vineyards Estate Luminesce

Washington, 61 cases, 14.7% alc., $19

Walla Walla Valley, 14.5% alc., 520 cases, $25

Recommended. Plum and cherry notes abound in

Recommended. Marty Clubb does more work with

a tasty, albeit off-dry, fashion. The sendoff with

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

WINE REVIEWS

2:39 PM

Page 94

recent releases

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Airfield Estates

Barnard Griffin Winery

2007 Riesling

2008 Chardonnay

Yakima Valley, 360 cases, 13.3% alc., $14

Columbia Valley, 23,000 cases, 12.9% alc., $14

Recommended. Loads of tropical fruit, apples and butterscotch swirl all

around this screwcap bottling in Prosser, Wash. There’s a nice blast of frontal acidity and some late notes of toasted almonds with food-friendly tartness in the finish.

Excellent. Rob Griffin opts for fruit-forward Chardonnay with his Tulip label, and that’s what you’ll get. Barlett pears, Jonagold apples, fig and lemons fill the nose. There’s more more citrus and pear in the rich mouth feel, then lemony acidity carries it through to the end.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars

Bitner Vineyards

2006 Bacchus Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

2006 Reserve Riesling

Columbia Valley, 3,385 cases, 13.2% alc., $11

Idaho, 135 cases, 12.6% alc., $12

Recommended. This Spokane winery has produced this wine from this

Recommended. Ron Bitner began growing grapes on his Sunnyslope estate for others in 1981. These older vines yield hints of apple blossoms, French vanilla and an orange Creamcicle. A lush, round entry of the same has enough citrusy acidity to keep the sweet fruit in balance.

vineyard for 25 years, and this vintage offers notes of dried apricots, pineapple, cooked pear and green peppercorns with some apple peel bitterness and lemon twist in the finish. a Hershey’s with Almonds bar makes the whole package seem creamy.

Fruit wines Samson Estates

is fascinating stuff because there also are hints of strawberry, rhubarb, raspberries and apricot. The acidity, which is reminiscent of tangerine, and a sense of tannin balance the residual sugar of 9.8%.

NV Blu Blueberry Dessert Wine

Camas Prairie Winery

Washington, 16% alc., $11

NV Palouse Gold Mead

Recommended. It’s made with blueberries, and it

Idaho, 50 cases, 11% alc., $11

smells and tastes of blueberries, but that’s not all to pick up. Plums, pomegranates, rose petals and violets join the aromas, followed by flavors of more plums, canned strawberries and bright acidity, finished by bite of chocolate brownies.

Recommended. Of all the honey wines created in

Samson Estates NV Delilah Blackberry Wine Washington, 11.5% alc., $11

Recommended. On first pass, there are hints of

strawberry shortcake and rhubarb, but there’s a pleasing tartness from a midpalate of blackberries two days from picking. The sour and tart finish will serve this well for complementing food.

the Northwest, this might the most straight forward as it’s derived from Idaho star thistle honey. Notes include the classic musky, clove and baked apple aromas, while the liquid is tongue-coating with more apples, jasmine and cinnamon bark. Its bright acidity gives it nice balance to the 9% residual sugar, capped by a nip off a Bit O Honey. Suggested food pairings include a fruit/cheese plate or cheesecake.

Camas Prairie Winery NV Raspberry Mead Idaho, 50 cases, 12% alc., $14

tasty little wine that includes minerality, Red Hot candy and a little bit of sweetness.

Outstanding! Here's a honey of wine, made with raspberry juice for a drink that is as good as mead gets. It offers lovely raspberry, melon and honey aromas and flavors. The structure is rich but not cloying — despite its 10% residual sugar — and makes for pleasing after-dinner company.

Samson Estates

Camas Prairie Winery

Nonvintage Delilah Loganberry Wine

NV Spiced Mead

Washington, 10.6% alc., $11

Idaho, 50 cases, 12.5% alc., $12

Recommended. The cross of blackberries and rasp-

Recommended. Cinnamon, cloves and allspice are

berries shows itself with aromas and flavors of both. It's only slightly off-dry and can be enjoyed with Asian cuisine or served chilled alongside some nibbles of smoked salmon, cheese and fruit.

key ingredients in the making of this honey wine, and they are easily acquired in the aromas and flavors. In the Northwest, this is believed to be a one of a kind and remains a conversation piece, but it’s a well-crafted wine despite the 9% residual sugar. It is suggested to serve this either warm or cold.

Samson Estates NV Delilah Raspberry Wine Washington, 10.6% alc., $11

Excellent. Raspberry fans will fall in love with this

Dessert wines Camas Prairie Winery NV Huckleberry Mead

Camas Prairie Winery

Idaho, 50 cases, 11% alc., $14

NV Tej Mead

Excellent. Stu Scott makes more styles of mead

Idaho, 50 cases, 6% alc., $12

than anyone in the Northwest, and he does it in the college town of Moscow, Idaho. Of course, there are huckleberry and honey notes, but this

Excellent. Palouse winemaker Stuart Scott does

several types of mead, and this one may appeal to those claiming allergies to sulfites. Tej

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

is the traditional Ethiopian style, a hopped honey wine and the combination of oil resin, tannin and pectin in the hops eliminates the need add sulfites to this style. This opens with aromas of Bit O Honey candy, musk melon, bubblegum, peppermint and toasted almonds. There’s more honey on the palate with French vanilla on the entry, a bite of fresh peppermint and some apple sauce in the finish.

Columbia Winery 2006 Phil Church Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine Columbia Valley, 650 cases, 10.8% alc., $30

Excellent. Many Washington wineries spent Halloween 2006 harvesting for ice wine, and this historic Woodinville operation did so at this 1,100-foot elevation site near Sunnyside. Here’s one of the better ice wine efforts you'll find south of the 49th parallel, unleashing a wave of aromatics such as apricots, cooked apple, golden raisins, honey and allspice. More apricots and honey await in the tasty drink that’s sweet (19% residual sugar) and spicy but not cloying, thanks to acidity of Mandarin orange to finish.

Heaven’s Cave 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Nobility Late Harvest Riesling Horse Heaven Hills, 295 cases, 12.2% alc., $18

Recommended. This philanthropic operation in Prosser, Wash., continues to branch out sweetly, but not too much so. Notes of jasmine, vanilla bean, citrus, honey, orchard fruit and rosewater come full circle with a light smack of sweetness (5.3% residual sugar) and mouthwatering acidity.

Wapato Point Cellars 2006 Late Harvest Riesling Columbia Valley, 313 cases, 12.2% alc., $26

Outstanding! It's not billed as an ice wine, but Chelan-area winemaker Jonathon Kludt might have you wondering. The nose is stacked with pineapple, apricots, honey and hints of apple pie with vanilla ice cream, but it's this rich, viscous and syrupy palate that goes beyond most late-harvest styles with more apricots, candied apple, Bit O Honey, and vanilla bean flavors. It's only 6% residual sugar, but you'd think there was twice that amount. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

88-103 Recent Releases

3/2/09

2:39 PM

Page 95

recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley, 37,000 cases, 13% alc., $13

made it from Pinot Noir saignée and other Pinot Noir juice — hence the term “Double Delight” — from the 2007 harvest. Rhubarb, white strawberry, rose petal and apples come to mind for a soft and easy-drinking blush.

Excellent. Abundant fresh-cut apples, both Red and Golden Delicious, dominate the palate with good acidity to pair well with a fruit and cheese plate featuring orchard fruit.

Kramer Vineyards

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Recommended. Lots of tangerines and apple notes include a hint of nutti-

2007 Gewürztraminer

ness and kitchen herbs with an undertone of lime to provide good acid balance for food applications.

Columbia Valley, 90,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $10

Outstanding! Bottlings such as this serve as reminders of scale and skill at this operation. The dose of Muscat Canelli (12%) heightens the aromatics that feature citrus, apricots and lychee. The flawlessness continues on the palate with more citrus and orchard fruit with a nice hit of sweetness (1.9% residual sugar). Bob Bertheau reportedly lost his fight to save the Muscat at Cold Creek Vineyard, so he’ll look elsewhere to match this magic potion that pairs well with Asian cuisine or Dungeness crab.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Nellie’s Garden Dry Rosé Columbia Valley, 22,000 cases, 13% alc., $13

2007 Pinot Gris Oregon, 350 cases, 13% alc., $15

L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Semillon Columbia Valley, 4,680 cases, 14.3% alc., $15

Recommended. An assortment from seven vineyards also includes Sauvignon Blanc (10%) and makes for a beautiful aroma wheel of crisp pears, gooseberry, warm oak, quince paste and cotton candy. Flavors of ripe pineapple dominate, casting a delicious richness before a quick rinse of bright acidity. The tasty finish hits at cotton candy and candy corn.

Lone Canary Winery 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

Excellent. It's rare when the red and white teams at Ste. Michelle get to collaborate. Here they do for one of the largest and most serious productions of rosé in the Northwest. The Syrah (98%) and Grenache get pressed in Prosser, Wash., then most of it gets shipped to Woodinville, Wash., for finishing. While the baseline profile is of strawberries and Rainier cherries, a hint of filberts is a sign of the 18% of barrel-aged juice for a bit of roundness. Yet, the crisp acidity prompts thoughts of artisan pizza, smoked salmon, summertime salads and mild cheese.

Outstanding! This isn’t the first time Spokane vintner Mike Scott has earned our top rating with this white Bordeaux variety, and that was at half of this production. Fuzzy apricots and inviting citrus aromas meld with impeccable orchard fruit flavors. The world is its oyster with such crisp acidity and bone-dry finish.

Coyote Canyon Winery

2007 Rainshadow White Wine

2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Viognier

Columbia Valley, 533 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Horse Heaven Hills, 148 cases, 13.9% alc., $15

Excellent. Here’s a tasty blend of Sauvignon Blanc (60%) and Semillon from this established Methow Valley vintner. It opens with subtle oak and orchard fruit aromas, followed by flavors of apples and pears with refreshing lemony acidity.

Recommended. The blending of Roussanne (24%) attains success, open-

ing with aromas of pineapple, coconut milk, fig, lemon zest and apples. It’s a rich and full-flavored drink with more pineapples and fresh lemonade on the palate, lending it to an entrée of halibut, sole or tilapia.

Eleven Winery

Columbia Valley, 2,800 cases, 14.1% alc., $13

Lost River Winery

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2006 Rosetta Blanc

2007 Artz Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

Yakima Valley, 211 cases, 13.1% alc., $13

Red Mountain, 161 cases, 12% alc., $15

Excellent. A unique blend of Pinot Gris (57%), Viognier (23%), Chasselas (10%) and Gewürztraminer from Crawford Vineyard, it's serious in its dry approach. There’s a focus on pears and tropical fruit aromas, then an intensity of grapefruit on the palate, joined by more pears and a touch of pleasing citrus pith bitterness in the finish.

Recommended. Remarkable, almost foxy, aromatics give this sex appeal with

lemon/lime, apples, floral and Thompson seedless aromas. The palate is true to form with tropical fruit, gooseberry acidity and citrus rind finish.

Hoover & Roofus Winery 2006 Riesling

Primarius Winery

Yakima Valley, 32 cases, 11.8% alc., $9

2007 Pinot Gris

Recommended. The label from this nascent estate project in Zillah, Wash.,

Oregon, 3,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

features a pair of friendly looking pooches, and this wine from Mike Lyon is worth lapping up. Hints of tangerines and grapefruit greet the sipper. It’s off-dry (2% residual sugar), with some beguiling pomegranate and green olives tones in the finish. Call the winery to purchase.

Recommended. Grapes from Oregon make their way to Mattawa, Wash.,

Kramer Vineyards

The Girl Next Door

2005 Dijon Chardonnay

2006 Roll in the Hay Chardonnay

Willamette Valley, 200 cases, 13.1% alc., $15

Columbia Valley, 800 cases, 12.8% alc., $14

Excellent. Fresh-squeezed orange juice and new-cut hay float over the

Outstanding! A second label by Alexandria Nicole Cellars comes off as a first-rate Chardonnay by winemaker Jarrod Boyle. It’s 100% barrel fermented, yet it maintains a fruit-forward style. Aromas of facial powder, apple and Bosc pear roll into flavors of sweet stone fruit with mouthwatering acidity to back it up. Hints of orange oil and zest on the midpalate funnel into a slice of jicama in the finish. Food-friendly tartness will lend this to chicken piccata with capers. Available only at ANC’s Woodinville tasting room or by phone.

glass in this creamy, well-made Chardonnay from estate fruit. The flavors show more citrus through the cushiony palate and a slight nutty finish.

Kramer Vineyards NV Double Delight Rosé of Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 12% alc., $14

Recommended. We couldn’t find the vintage on the label, but Trudy Kramer

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

and Hal Landvoigt takes over from there. He turned out an offering of Granny Smith and Golden Delicious apples with nuances of lavender, celery leaf and Uncola.

S P R I N G 2 0 0 9 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

40 ... Label ads

2/28/09

12:19 PM

Page 96

WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

97 Taste Washington ad

2/27/09

3:48 PM

Page 97

98 Vintage Musings

3/2/09

COLUMN

2:29 PM

Page 98

vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

For 40 years, Ponzis stay on top

t’s been a heady 12 months for longtime Oregon winery Ponzi Vineyards with a new state-of-the-art facility, being chosen as Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 Oregon Winery of the Year and its wine being served at President Barack Obama’s inauguration. I met founder Dick Ponzi back in 1981 when he showed up at the third Tri-Cities Wine Festival. He submitted a Sauvignon Blanc and a White Riesling (the acclaimed Ponzi Pinot Noirs and Pinot Gris were yet to come). Dick came to Oregon in 1969 to start his wine dream. His first vintage was 1974, and he was one of the first to introduce Pinot Gris in 1978. The son of Italian immigrants, he never lost his fondness for his European wine heritage. Back in 1981, the Pacific Northwest’s modern-day wine industry was in its infancy and most of the winemakers could fit in my back yard. In fact, many of them did as my wife, Joyce, and I would play host to a backyard brunch at our Kennewick, Wash., home. We had a pool and plenty of sunshine, something a bit novel to wine folks from west of the Cascade Mountains. Each winemaker would bring a bottle or two, often something new, and it was a great time to sit in the sun, sip wine, devour a delicious omelet and dream of what might be the future of the Pacific Northwest wine industry. Last fall as I traveled south from Portland toward the tasting room, I knew why I so love the picturesque Willamette Valley countryside with its neat farms, clumps of forest and bushes and, of course, the statuesque oak trees. A few folks from Portland also were there enjoying the ambiance that included places outside to enjoy wine and commune with nature that is only a cork’s throw away. And a few miles south of the tasting room is another Ponzi innovation, the Dundee Bistro, a restaurant that serves gourmet cuisine, including tasty fresh-caught Oregon seafood. And new to the scene this year is Dick Ponzi’s dream, a state-of-the-art, four-level, 30,000-square-foot winemaking facility a few miles away that includes almost every “green” component imaginable. There are solar panels, earth berms around the buildings and a rainwater-collection facility to supply a large pond. But the biggest thing is total gravity flow, in which grapes come in at the highest level and the resulting wine eventually flows into the lowest level, where the aging take place. Dick has turned his winemaking duties over to his daughter Luisa Ponzi, who was trained in Burgundy, France. Two other Ponzi children, Michel Ponzi, director of operations, and Maria Ponzi Fogelstrom, director of sales and marketing, are part of this pioneer Oregon wine family. 98

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 9

No wonder Wine Press Northwest chose Ponzi Vineyards its 2009 Oregon Wine of the Year in this issue of the magazine. It was an honor long overdue. When I visited the winery last fall, I had no idea this would happen. I also had no idea that Ponzi wines have been so popular in Washington, D.C., over the years. Ponzi’s rare Italian white 2007 Arneis was served on the eve of President Obama’s inauguration in January at a posh $500-a-plate event. Although now sold out, look for future Arneis vintages that offer flavors similar to a Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc with pear, grapefruit and grassiness. Wines that are available: 2007 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $17:- Great mouth feel with citrus and melons and a lingering lemony finish. 2007 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, $17: Floral aromas along with tangerines. Balanced flavors with a hint of rosemary spice. 2007 Riesling, Willamette Valley, $20: Oregon Rieslings are a bit more subtle that Washington Rieslings. This example is very citrusy, with flavors of Fuji apples and a lingering crisp finish. Great food wine. 2007 Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, $20: All steel fermentation produces a Chablis-like, food-friendly wine. Crisp with tropical fruit and banana aromas. 2006 Reserve Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, $30: I really can’t afford a $30 Chardonnay often, but this is a gem. Rich vanilla spice and almond aromas, with flavors of lemon meringue pie and a smooth, juicy finish. 2007 Rosato Pinot Noir, $15: A racy rosé of Pinot Noir that offers raspberries and oranges with a crisp balance of fruit and acids. A match with salmon. 2007 Travola Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $25: Meant to drink young. Plums and smoke aromas with cherry flavors and food-friendly acids. Also goes with salmon. 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $60: Huge layers of complex cherry components from the nose to the finish. Hints of tobacco yet a smooth, rich chocolate mid-palate. 2006 Dolcetto, Willamette Valley, $25: An attractive Italian red variety that shows licorice, cranberries and dried currants with a lengthy finish. 2006 Vino Gelato, dessert white dessert, Willamette Valley, $30: A

sweet, aromatic delicious blend of Early Muscat and Riesling. Jasmine, apricots and passion fruit leap from the glass. BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

99 Best Western ad

2/27/09

3:41 PM

Page 107

100 U-Line

2/27/09

3:40 PM

Page 100