Wine Press Northwest Spring 2010 by Wine Press Northwest

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 13, No. 1

N O R T H W E S T

FEATURES

28 Vin du Lac Our 2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year knows how to wine and dine its customers.

32 Regional Wineries of the Year Discover which wineries in Oregon, Washington, Idaho and British Columbia have won awards this year.

44 Merlot Judging Merlot lovers strike gold in Northwest wines.

62 Snipes Mountain Snipes Mountain becomes one of the Northwest’s youngest appellations.

72 Picazo 7Seventeen Chef Frank Magaña pairs Yakima Valley wines with fresh regional ingredients in Prosser, Wash.

Spring 2010 DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose A pioneer’s vines, vision live on

8 A Distant Perspective Many Merlots deserved ‘Sideways’

10 Market Grapevine Sumptuous, sublime spring

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Malbec making moves in Northwest

14 Urban Sips Wines to go with alphabet soup

16 19 20 80 98

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings Proving Crest is best

COVER STORY This page: Used barrels wait for new homes in front of the wintry landscape at Vin du Lac. On the cover: Vin du Lac’s bistro is open year-round. Story begins on page 28. Photos by Jackie Johnston

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1405 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1404 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Hans Carman, Mike Rader, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Dave Seaver, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Guest panelists: Jarrod Boyle, Kate Michaud, Charlie Hoppes, David “Merf” Merfeld, Thomas Henick-Kling Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editor at-large: Jon Bauer Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing photographers: J. Kevin Dunn, Jackie Johnston, Chris Mason Stearns Ad sales: Parker Hodge, 509-585-7257 E-mail: phodge@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2010 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

A pioneer’s vines, vision live on

have many reasons to love wine. One is for the memories evoked when a bottle is shared. They might include the meal, the setting or the friends I’m with. Often, it’s all three. Perhaps even more is the history that wine brings. At their very essence, special bottles of wines capture a moment like nothing else. They are time capsules of a vintage, a season during which grower and vintner toiled to produce a beverage that then changes, develops and evolves for weeks, months, years or even decades. Every bottle of wine tells a story. Sometimes, it’s a romance novel or a playful haiku. More often than not, it’s a brief story in a mass medium. On rare occasions, it’s an epic, a masterful work that reveals itself one chapter at a time. I love how wine tells a story. Perhaps it is my background as a newspaperman. Perhaps it goes back to my time in college, when I minored in history. Perhaps it’s a natural curiosity. Perhaps it’s simply an excuse to enjoy wines so I can understand where they came from and what they have to tell us. On the grand scale of civilization’s efforts to craft wine, the Pacific Northwest would seem to be woefully short on history. Grapes have been grown in Washington since perhaps 1825, according to Ron Irvine’s important book The Wine Project: Washington State's Winemaking History (1997, Sketch Publications), but anything resembling an industry didn’t show up until 1905, when Stone House Winery got started in the Yakima Valley. About that time, a Canadian named William B. Bridgman showed up in Washington. He was a proponent of irrigation and twice was elected mayor of Sunnyside. In 1914, he began planting grapes. The first vines he put in the soil were not classic European wine grapes, but he began to go in that direction in 1917 when he planted, among other varieties, Thompson Seedless and Muscat of Alexandria. The latter is among the oldest wine grapes in history, owing its name to the Egyptian city where it was used to make wine. Our nation’s dubious, misguided effort to rid itself of alcohol consumption began to gain traction about the same time and officially started just three years later, so Bridgman had to suffer through 14 years of Prohibition before he could resume his vision for what Washington should become. When America came to its senses and repealed the 18th Amendment, he was among the first get started, launching Upland Winery. It lasted nearly 40 years. Bridgman envisioned a Washington that could produce wines on par with California, even Europe. When he died in 1968, he might well have seen his hard work and hopes as nothing more than failure. He certainly had not been able to make commercially successful dry table wines from vinifera grapes as he’d hoped. But he did something more important: 6

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He got the industry started, then he nurtured it by convincing a scientist named Walter Clore that wine grapes were viable in Eastern Washington. These days, Clore is known as “the father of Washington wine,” the Johnny Appleseed of the industry who convinced so many to plant grapes throughout the region (including British Columbia). Clore, who passed away in 2003, is rightly revered in these parts. A wine center in Prosser is being named after him. Washington’s largest producer has honored him on the label of its finest wine. Yet time has left Bridgman largely in the shadows. Back in 1993, Washington Hills launched a label called Bridgman Cellars to honor the man. Four years later, Irvine’s book told his story and helped a new generation learn about Bridgman and understand his importance to the state. Yet he has remained largely unnoticed and forgotten. Through the decades, however, something remarkable occurred: A few of those vines Bridgman planted in 1917 survived. After Bridgman died, Al Newhouse bought the vineyards on Snipes Mountain near Sunnyside. A few rows of Muscat of Alexandria, Thompson Seedless and Black Monukka from 1917 remained, as did a block of Black Muscat that Bridgman planted in the 1950s. In 2006, Newhouse’s grandson Todd launched called Upland Estates. (Read more about the new Snipes Mountain AVA on Page 62.) The grapes for the new Upland wines come from Snipes Mountain, where the vision for the Washington wine industry began nearly a century ago. Upland’s repertoire includes an ice wine made from those ancient Muscat grapes. In the throes of harvest last fall, I visited Upland Vineyards. I was most interested in seeing those old soldiers. The trunks of some of the Thompson Seedless vines were so large, I would have struggled to wrap my arms around them, and some of the clusters were three feet long. It was an honor to taste those grapes, to walk where Bridgman had walked, to feel his presence amid these elder statesmen and to hear the reverence with which Todd Newhouse — who wasn’t yet born when Bridgman passed away — spoke about the pioneer, the man he dubs “the grandfather of Washington wine.” On a rainy day in late February, I returned to those old vines. With Newhouse’s permission, I took some cuttings from the Thompson Seedless to replant in my backyard. It’s a way for me to have a connection to Bridgman, an opportunity to honor him in my own small way. Last November at the annual Tri-Cities Wine Festival, an Upland Malbec won best in show. And somewhere in the mist of that late autumn day, amid those special old vines, the spirit of William B. Bridgman was smiling. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Many Merlots deserved ‘Sideways’

t has been roughly six years since we were witness to one of the wine world’s most feared enemies. It is an enemy so fierce that it can play havoc with our beloved industry in ways that are so devastating and so horrifying that mere mortals are driven to cowering in corners. Most people don’t even know it is coming, and when it arrives, it strikes with a venom that can turn invoices to ashes, and can drive tractors to tear out harmless grapevines. It is the motion picture. It is the picture in which someone does something so outrageous that entire industries are left destitute. Families are torn asunder. Look what Pretty Woman did to prostitution! Utter disillusionment. Look what Ghandi did for dieting! Look what Sideways did for Merlot! You all remember the scene, don’t you? Jack and Miles are on a wine country holiday just before Jack’s impending marriage. They find women for an evening out and as they approach the steakhouse, Miles, a Pinot Noir freak, is unprepared for the coming apocalypse. “If they want to drink Merlot, we’re drinking Merlot,” says Jack. To which Miles replies angrily, “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f---ing Merlot!” Well, there goes the neighborhood. Anyone who makes Merlot may now leave the room and find a large bottle of pills. Merlot has just been reduced to a steaming pile of rubbish and it’s all thanks to a filmmaker who knows squat about wine, and who has never tasted a great Columbia Valley Merlot. Ah, the myths that pervade this business. Cabernet is nobler than thou. All Riesling is sweet and thus undrinkable. Napa is the king and everything else is a pretender to the throne. Miles Raymond’s epithet that trashed hundreds of years of grape growing and winemaking merely adds to the fairy story. So where are we? Well, perhaps better off now that we have had our wake-up call. Remember that Merlot sales were sailing along since early 1992 on a path to near-collapse anyhow. Had it not been for the Sideways swipe at it, which wasn’t all that inaccurate, incidentally, we might have had to continue to defend rottenquality Merlot for another decade. Because the myths persist. Let’s all look back to those early days of Merlot growth. It was November 1991 when 60 Minutes first broadcast that report on the French Paradox, in which it was categorically stated that the French smoke more, eat more fat, and yet have a lower heart disease rate. And the reason was that the French drink more wine. Red wine, to be specific. And that small factette led millions of persons out top buy red wine. And what did they buy? Why, Cabernet Sauvignon of course. That was what merchants suggested. And what did 8

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the people do? They gagged. Cabernet Sauvignon is a grape with a great deal of astringent tannin. So for months, Cab sales rose and the people were sorely miffed. By March of 1992 or so, the word began to leak out that if you wanted red wine for your heart’s sake, try Merlot. It not only has less astringent tannins (well, a bit anyhow), but also was equally as good for your heart. And that began the runaway wagon. Californians began to plant the grape in all manner of locations, most of which were far too hot to sustain it as anything more than a munchy treat with seeds. The flavors it produced were almost anti-Merlot: weedy, harsh and totally unattractive. So what message was the American consumer getting between 1995 when the new plantings were coming on line and 2003, when Sideways was being shot? We saw a flood of lousy Merlot. That is only an eight-year span, but it was a period in which oak chip-flavored Merlots were bought by people whose ostensible justification was heart attack insurance, not wine enjoyment, and they treated the stuff the way you would medicine. Is it any wonder that we began to see sales of Merlot fall like a shot pigeon? Was it Miles Raymond’s fault (or the writer of the book, Rex Pickett, or the director, Alexander Payne) that the hammer came down on Merlot? In fact, we should be thanking all three gentlemen (two men and a character) for shining a light where one was needed. True wine lovers never were misled by great Washington Merlot during the build-up in sales. Washington Merlot did rather well during the “Merlot as Medicine” period. What the film was trashing was bad Merlot. The fact that the character, at the end of the film, was happy to drink a wine in which Merlot played a role was an ironic twist that may well have been lost on Payne. Funny thing is that sales of Merlot did actually decline from the time the movie came out in 2004 to now, and that’s all to the benefit of top-quality Merlot. What was discarded were those $5 to $10 Merlots that, for the most part, have little to do with the grape. And the upshot? A lot of California warm-climate Merlot is being converted back to varieties that do better in those regions, and those people who made bad Merlot are no longer making it, which leaves us with a group of quality Merlots from which to choose. A lot of it is from Columbia Valley. I see no bad in that. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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market grapevine BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Sumptuous, sublime spring Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

pring brings a sublime selection of fresh foods to Northwest kitchens: baby greens, peas and herbs; newlaid eggs and grass-fed lamb; and the first catches of salmon and halibut. Our sublime spring feast begins with a fun-to-eat, easy-tomake appetizer: Smoked Salmon Potato Crisps. Begin by arranging 24 plain baked potato chips on a pretty serving platter. Place a bite-sized piece of best-quality hot-smoked salmon (such as the Alderwood Smoked Salmon available at Pure Food Fish in the Pike Place Market or online at www.freshseafood.com) over each chip. Dab each piece of salmon with crème fraîche or sour cream, then (with clean kitchen shears) snip some fresh dill or fresh chives over the chips. Serve the crisps with Mountain Dome NV Brut sparkling wine ($16, Columbia Valley). Fruity but dry, this bubbly beauty tickles the nose and palate with aromas and flavors of apple, pear and spice. I love the six whimsical gnomes (who represent the family members who make the wine) on its festive label. We continue our fresh spring feast by stirring up a batch of Coconut-Orange Scallop Soup. Heat a tablespoon of peanut oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add one tablespoon of grated fresh ginger and four halved garlic cloves. Cook (stirring constantly) 1 to 2 minutes, then add a pinch of hot red-pepper flakes, the zest of one orange, half a cup of mirin (Japanese rice wine) and two (14-ounce) cans of vegetable broth plus one-and-one-half cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes. Strain the broth and add it back to the pot. Add one cup of coconut milk, stir well and bring to a simmer. Add one pound of bay or sea scallops (halved or quartered) and half a cup of shelled English peas and cook until the scallops just turn opaque. Serve the soup with Milbrandt Vineyards 2007 Traditions Riesling ($14, Columbia Valley), whose aromas and flavors of orange blossom and stone fruit mirror the tropical notes in the soup and whose balanced acidity cuts through the soup’s lush coconut flavor. Our sublime spring entrée, Leg of Lamb with Fresh Herb Crust, comes from The Complete Meat Cookbook (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2001, $35). To make the crust, combine two tablespoons each fresh rosemary leaves and fresh thyme leaves in a food processor along with two garlic cloves, onehalf teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper and two tablespoons of olive oil. Blend to form a coarse paste. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush one six- to eight-pound 10

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whole leg of lamb (trimmed of most of the visible fat, shank intact, hip bone removed, flaps of meat skewered or sewn together) with the crust mixture and let sit at room temperature for up to two hours. Roast the lamb in the middle of the oven for one hour. When the internal temperature of the thickest part reads 115° to 120°F, remove it from the oven for rare lamb or continue cooking to medium. Let the meat rest for at least 20 minutes (loosely covered with foil) before carving and serving. Serve the lamb with R. Stuart & Co. 2007 Big Fire Pinot Noir ($18, Oregon), a juicy Pinot rife with red-fruit goodness (cherry, cranberry, raspberry). Combined with medium body and a velvety mouth feel, it makes a potent combination with the earthy, herbaceous lamb. We conclude our sublime spring supper with Souffléed Omelet with Lemon Cream Sauce, a recipe from Short Cuts to Great Cuisine (The Crossing Press, 1994, $12.95). To make the sauce, whisk one-half cup each lemon curd and heavy cream in a small bowl until smooth. Cover and chill. Make the omelet by separating three large eggs. Place the yolks in a medium bowl and the whites in a small one. With an electric mixer, beat the whites until frothy and slightly thickened. Sprinkle with two tablespoons sugar and continue to beat until opaque and barely stiff. Without washing the beaters, whisk the yolks with two tablespoons of sugar plus one-half teaspoon of pure vanilla extract until thick and smooth. Heat two tablespoons of unsalted butter in a large, well-seasoned or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, gently fold the whites into the yolks. Swirl the butter around the pan and pour in the eggs. Cook until the omelet is slightly puffed and golden on the underside, one to two minutes. Slide the cooked side out of the pan onto a dinner plate, then cover the uncooked side with the skillet. Turn the plate over the skillet and cook the underside until golden. Cut the omelet into quarters, plate them, drizzle with the sauce and serve immediately with Northwest Totem Cellars 2006 Elerding Vineyard Late-Harvest Viognier ($27/375ml, Yakima Valley), a light and aromatic dessert wine whose ripe flavors of tropical fruits (pineapple and passion fruit) work so well with the fluffy eggs and creamy citrus sauce. Now, raise your glass and fork in harmony and give thanks to spring — the sublime season! BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). and is a regular contributor to The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine and Amazon.com’s Al Dente blog. Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Malbec making moves in NW In the past few years, I’ve discovered a number of wineries are making Malbec as a single varietal wine instead of using it as a blending grape. What’s behind this recent change?

Malbec long has been one of the anonymous partners in Bordeaux reds, where it labors unnoticed, often in tandem with Petit Verdot. Malbec adds lush, juicy, dark fruit flavors, color and tannin to those French blends and also is grown in the Loire and several regions around the Mediterranean. In addition to often being dismissed as a blending grape, Malbec suffers because it has “at least 34 different names,” according to The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia. In Cahors, for example, it is usually called Auxerrois, the name most of us would apply to the white grape grown in Alsace, Chablis and British Columbia. So it’s not surprising that longtime wine lovers in the Northwest have seen little of this grape in anything but red blends. Wine Press Northwest did its first review of a Malbec in 2001. That wine was made in 1999 from Umpqua Valley grapes at Abacela Vineyards & Winery and received a “recommended” rating, according to our wine review archives. It was an inauspicious Northwest debut for a grape that’s been consistently good in the years since. For although we’ve rated only 109 Malbecs since our first 2001 review, 39 of them have earned an “Outstanding!” rating — our tasting panel’s equivalent of a gold medal-level wine — or higher. That’s 35.8 percent of the total tasted. For comparison, it’s worth noting that the Wine Press Northwest tasting panel has published reviews of 1,103 Merlots, arguably Washington’s signature red wine, since our first edition. And 425 of those Merlots have rated an “Outstanding!” rating or better, or 38.5 percent of them. Thus I think it’s reasonable to conclude the Northwest can make a Malbec of a quality that rivals one of the red wines that helped establish our region’s reputation as a place where fine wines are produced. The Northwest’s winemakers seem to agree. Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho wineries all have been turning out Malbecs in the past 10 years. Abacela owner Earl Jones was an early advocate for bottling Malbec as a varietal wine, and his 2000, 2001 and 2004 vintages all were rated Outstanding wines. In the Northwest, the 2005 vintage holds the honors for the best Malbec vintage released and rated so far, with Maryhill Winery’s Proprietor’s Reserve made from Columbia Valley grapes and Reininger Winery’s bottling made from Pepper Bridge Vineyard grapes both winning Platinum awards in Wine Press Northwest’s 2008 Platinum Judging. The Reininger Malbec is especially memorable for me because I first tasted it at the 2008 Northwest Wine Summit, where it tied with a 2004 Merlot from Northstar Winery for the best Washington wine. Jones, who was on a judging panel with me when we tasted that flight, described it as “about as good a Malbec as you can make.” 12

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If you’re searching for more good Malbecs, I’d suggest looking for wines made by Abacela, Alexandria Nicole, Barnard Griffin, Fidelitas, Mount Baker or Tildio. I recently enjoyed a Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Vineyard Select Malbec with pork tenderloin and a sauce made from cherry preserves and a red wine blend. The combination was delicious. Wine words: Fortification

In both war and wine, fortification adds strength. For wine, it means adding alcohol to boost a wine above the generally accepted strength of 8.5 to 15 percent for an unfortified still wine. Usually, anything from 17 to 24 percent is designated as a fortified wine. There are three generally accepted methods of fortifying a wine. In the first, called mutage, alcohol is added to fresh grape juice, which prevents fermentation by killing any wild yeast, preserves the natural sugar in the wine and still produces a fortified, very sweet wine. In France, these wines are known as vins de liqueurs, and are produced in Cognac, Armagnac and Champagne regions, according to The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia. In a process called early fortification, alcohol is added after fermentation begins, usually in several small, carefully calibrated doses, sometimes over as much as several days. The amount of alcohol added and the process for adding it depend on the aim of the winemaker. For Port, the fortified wine most familiar to most of us, the alcohol is added after fermentation has boosted the alcohol level to about 6 percent to 8 percent, which is when about half the sugar has been consumed by the yeast. Typically, the added alcohol raises the Port-style wine to about 18 percent alcohol. In the Northwest and California, where Syrah and Zinfandel often are used in Port-style wines, a hot growing region with lots of late summer and early fall sun can easily boost the sugar content (brix) in the grapes to 26 percent or a bit above. Assuming a brix of that level, the remaining sugar content will be somewhere around 10 percent to 12 percent. To produce the other common fortified wine, the sherry type, late fortification is usually used. Traditionally, it is made only from white wine grapes — Palomino, Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel — and these days to be legally labeled as Sherry, Jerez or Xeres, it must be made in the Cadiz region of Spain. The winemaker does not add alcohol until after fermentation is complete, which produces a dry wine. For a sweeter wine, sugar also is added. Typically, these wines will be 15 percent to 17.5 percent alcohol. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 40 years and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 32 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

Wines to go with alphabet soup

lphabet letters on labels are all the rage. And on wine’s wheel of fortune, lots of single letters come into play. So grab a glass and a dictionary, and let’s see if we can solve this puzzle. From Cirque du Soleil to Oprah Magazine, undoubtedly, O is the flavor of the month. Replacing the reign of E, O basks in the spotlight. One star performer is the “O” Wine 2008 Chardonnay. This wine stands apart from past vintages opening with a more steely and citrus expression. Bright edges are engulfed with under-ripe peach and drizzled caramel, while higher acid bites hard in all the right places. O is a crowded space, and other notables include Sineann “O” Old Vine Zinfandel and EIEIO & Co.’s Pinot Noir “O.” E thinks this hoopla is unnecessary. But have hope, letter E! In due time, you’ll be back on top — the newest black, the vowel to buy. Speaking of EIEIO & Co., along with the “O” and the Pinot Noir “I,” the EIEIO 2006 Pinot Noir “E” speaks loudly from across the farm. A little funk on its junk, but what’s an Oregon Pinot without it? It eventually blows off, divulging ripe raspberry and blackberry with balanced acid and a lightsoff finish. Finished is what you may feel if you pull the magic J and Z, at least if Scrabble is your game. I see these two letters as game-breakers, but hardly so in the game of wine. Sineann J and Zerba Z show a sense of wild abandon. Sineann “J” (Jezebel) is a balance of fruit and earth with ripe strawberry starbursting into sour cherry and moss. The wine is silky to the touch and smoky to the finish. Pull this J for a midweek meal and hope they serve a side of letters A and M (just in case). The Zerba Cellars 2005 Wild “Z” Red Wine, Columbia Valley, is a firecracker bursting with Zorro darkness. There are a lot of moving parts enveloped by ribbons of juicy black fruit, oaky vanilla and cocoa powder. This is the wine that tries to sit on your lap while you’re standing up. Smooth and inviting. No, enticing. H is a significant other. While G and I are autonomous, H is frequently partnered with S or C. Significant, yes — but other, nonetheless. With wine, however, H thwarts its independence. Eric Hamacher’s second label, the “H” 2007 Pinot Noir drops the Hamacher with a burst of ripe raspberry, red cherry and vanilla swirl. Light and friendly, this wine is simple in structure — and happiest at home. As I see it, perfect traits for a significant other. Adding to the mix is the Columbia Crest 2007 “H3” Merlot. Dark fruit with a soft pucker, this wine is like a collagen shot to the lips. Its structure stands Cablike straight, so give it some time to arrive at the party. When it gets there, you’ll be 14

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treated to a firehose performance of red cherry, blueberry and hints of dark chocolate. A juicy balance throws out a long, smooth finish. If you have an affinity for letter/number combos, the infamous DeLille Cellars D2 comes to mind. I was tipped off to Eugene Wine Cellars B2, but not much to say, as I couldn’t find the wine. However, plenty to say about K Vintners! Oh yes, plenty, indeed. The “K” 2007 Milbrant Syrah hurls black fruit, red fruit, olives and tobacco in an intensely woven bright plume. Insane! Strong and lush with acid and tannins working in tandem, this wine attacks your tongue with irresistible charm like the lovely, yet fatal voices of those Greek chickadees. Look away; plug your ears! Or simply succumb to the battering of this wine’s allure. In the end, a little battering tends to be worth it. Next up, M is easily summarized as a mysterious muse. The O•S Winery 2005 “M” Klipsun inspires sultriness. It’s a glass of spicy darkness with sour cherry and woody anise. Expressions of bawdy fascination reveal with a tassel-twisting finish. Another wine that shines is the Sokol Blosser NV Meditrina “M.” Unusual and tempting, this blend of Syrah, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel boosts expectations. Dark fruits with spice and must infuse your mouth with a velvet touch and a sprinkle of leather on the finish. Speaking of leather, this M really wants to partner with S, or is it the other way around? But that’s another story entirely. And then there’s the cleanup wine, the All-Star hitter, the catcher from A to Z. The “A to Z” 2007 Riesling from Oregon is everything fruit and then some. Crisp apple winds through pear and luscious pineapple upside down cake. This wine pretties it up with German blondeness in an elegant structure of shiny acid. A bright, fresh finale is cause for a standing ovation. Bravo! As a kid I played “spell the word” in the bowl with alphabet soup or cereal. With labeled letters, party games take on a whole new meaning. And if you tire of the brain games, wine bottles make relatively good bowling pins. Cheers! With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is the author of the latest edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest and the Northwest Wine Journal. She also was the winner of the Napa Valley Wine Writers Editor’s Choice Award in 2007. She contributes to Seattle Metropolitan and writes An Urban Sip Wine Blog www.anurbansip.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

Well, if El Niño maintains his current profile, then March could be in like a lamb and out like a bunny. Each spring, the Northwest wine season unofficially begins with two huge consumer tastings — the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival and Taste Washington in Seattle. For years, Taste Washington has been staged in April. This year, the Northwest’s quintessential food-andwine event is March 27-28. No need to worry about battling Mariners fans for parking. (For that matter, Taste Washington Spokane is June 6, two weeks earlier than in 2009.) Normally, British Columbians raise the curtain on the Playhouse in late March. This time, folks in Vancouver need a breather after the Olympics, so they’ve moved the event back to April 19-25. Perhaps the mild weather will turn wild and make for a wacky wabbit. Just in case, maybe we’d better track down some Bad Bunny by Chuckanut Ridge Wine Co.

Hit the North Willamette Wine Trail. The North Willamette Vintners — the group formerly known as the Wineries of Washington County — continue to build their new brand with their second annual North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend. On April 10-11, new and experienced winesters can experience a variety of wine-related activities. There’s some swag — a reusable wine tote, a commemorative glass and coupons for local restaurants, hotels and wineries. Ticket holders enjoy complimentary pourings and complementary food pairings. Activities include croquet matches, live bluegrass and blues, and a book signing by Nancy Ponzi, who will provide samples of recipes from her The Ponzi Vineyards Cookbook. 16

Cost is $45 ($35 in advance), but its just $10 for your designated driver. The group of 21 wineries includes Adea, Apolloni, Cooper Mountain, David Hill, Elk Cove, Helvetia, J. Albin, Kramer, Montinore, Oak Knoll, Patton Valley, Ponzi, SakeOne and Tualatin Estate. Go to northwillamettevintners.org.

Another shot at Platinum. Each year, two organizations hold banquets based on results from Wine Press Northwest’s Platinum Competition. The Columbia Tower Club and Kerry Johnson stage theirs in January. The Yakima Enological Society (YES) version arrives in the spring. This year, it’s April 10 at the Yakima Country Club with chef Greg Masset at the helm. Somehow, Leo Lee and his crew got their hands on 20 Platinum wines to serve, with 11 of those earning Double Platinum. Cost is $140. Proceeds go to the wine program at Yakima Valley Community College. Go to yakimawine.org for information.

Bench players. Some of the most remarkable wines in the Northwest come off the Naramata Bench in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. They can be experienced in two ways over two weeks. There are spring release events at the Roundhouse in Vancouver (April 12) and The Inn at Laurel Point in Victoria (April 14). Each winery selects its top red and top white wines, which are paired with food. The event also includes bidding on the “Best of the Bench” collection of wines. Call 800-663-1900. A week later, the Naramata Bench opens its cellars and pops the bungs in conjunction with the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. Go to naramatabench.com for details.

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Get a little wild in Wilbur. One of the more remarkable winery operations in the Northwest belongs to Michael Haig and his folks. While the estate vineyards sit along a bench overlooking Lake Roosevelt, Whitestone wines are crafted 20 miles away in the wheat belt town of Wilbur, Wash., and that’s home of the annual Spring Barrel BBQ. “We wheel out multiple barrels and let participants try the difference between French oak and American oak, medium and medium-plus toast levels, and different harvest dates to show how little changes in pH, acid and brix have on the wine,” Haig said. Indeed, Whitestone releases are among the most terroir-based and food-friendly in the Northwest. Look for his renowned Pieces of Red blend to be unveiled among the sirloin burgers and signature brats from Egger’s in Spokane. Cost? Would you believe $5? This year, it’s April 24. If you miss this event, you can experience the same wines at his Spokane tasting room. Go to whitestonewinery.com.

Take Mom to the Snake River Valley. Sawtooth Winery plays host to the annual Mother’s Day Wine Festival on May 9. The event, now into its third decade, features more than a dozen wineries from the Snake River Valley. Last year, the lineup included Bitner, Carmela, Cinder, Davis Creek, Hells Canyon, Holesinsky, Indian Creek, Koenig, Parma Ridge, Snake River Winery, Vin du Bois, Weston, Williamson and Zhoo Zhoo. Tickets are $10, which gets you a commemorative wine glass, a passport for some wine and an afternoon of live music, food and craft booths. Bring your lawn chairs or a blanket and sprawl out on two acres of lawn. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY Contact the winery at sawtoothwinery.com for details.

Tasting through Oregon vicariously. An unemployed wine-loving mom from Lake Oswego, Tamara Belgard, has embarked on a goal to visit each tasting room in her home state of Oregon. She chronicles her quest at sipwithme.blogspot.com. With about 400 wineries, she needs to hit an average of more than one per day. Here’s the lede to one entry that provides a bit of her insight and style. “With the current state of the economy, my former hobby of seeking out value-driven wines has now become more of a necessity. With that thought weighing as heavily upon me as a teenager’s backpack, I located Firesteed Cellars, who to me epitomizes both quality and value.” Obstacles Belgard lists include the scope of her Homerian task, caring for her son and this comment that made me LOL. “I definitely didn’t account for some things, like how to find new ways of describing Pinot Noir for the 100th time.” You go, girl.

The science of wine. It’s dang-near California, but Ashland, Ore., is very much Northwest wine country. In fact, the planet’s leading wine climatologist — professor Greg Jones — is on faculty at Southern Oregon University. Nearby is the ScienceWorks Museum, which stages its seventh annual Science of Wine weekend May 6-8. This serves as a key fundraiser for the museum, and events include a winemaker dinner, lectures on winemaking and barrel making, and a dressy evening with 15 Southern Oregon wineries paired with food from 15 restaurants. Go to scienceworksmuseum.org.

Glamping in the San Juans. Two properties in Friday Harbor, Wash., are taking glamorous camping to the nth degree by offering “gourmet glamping” on May 7-8. Lakedale Resort at Three Lakes and The Bluff Restaurant at Friday Harbor House are collaborating on two-night stays for Lakedale’s wellappointed canvas cabins. When guests arrive, they get a bottle W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY of Domaine Ste. Michelle sparking wine, a chef ’s hat and apron and the opportunity to prepare a multi-course dinner over campfire. On Saturday evening, couples meet at the campfire, get assembled into small groups, then are taught how to prepare a course for the dinner by The Bluff culinary team. For dessert, everyone will receive s’more training. Cost is $439 per couple. If you miss this weekend, a second “camp” is Sept. 24-25. Go to lakedale.com.

Meet a couple of winery nags. One of the newest winery operations in the Okanagan Valley features a tandem of Suffolk Draft mares named Greta and Meaghan. Working Horse Winery, Vineyard and Farm in Peachland, B.C., proudly promotes an organic approach to its young 22-acre operation. There’s plenty of history involved too with winemaker Tilman Hainle — whose father created Canada’s first ice wine in 1973. And the attractions include the Icewine Interpretation Centre, a personalized guided tour of the farm and organicinfluenced meals for overnight guests at the Inn at Working Horse. Go to workinghorsewinery.com

Theatre in the Roza Hills. Last year’s inaugural event at Silver Lake Winery in Zillah, Wash., was centered on a murder mystery. Without spending much on promotions, it attracted nearly 100 folks to the evening, which combined dinner, outdoor theater and Silver Lake wines. On June 19, the curtain will rise again as the sun begins to set. Details of the production are in the works, but the ticket will cost $20, and reservations are advised. Contact Taynea Stephas at 509-829-6235, via email at tstephas@silverlakewinery.com or go to the winery’s Web site at silverlakewinery.com. ı What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. ı Have a Northwest wine item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events.

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events

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March 27 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. Northwest wines take center stage at the 21th annual fundraiser for St. Martin’s University. Cost is $14. Contact 360-438-4366 or go to capitalfoodandwine.com. 27-28 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington’s signature wine event starts Saturday with seminars at Bell Harbor and ends Sunday with the tasting at the Qwest Field Event Center. Cost starts at $75. Go to tastewashington.org.

April 9-10 Ninth Annual Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamins Edgefield Winery brings in winemakers and distributors from the Northwest and beyond for a Syrah showdown. Call 800-669-8610 or go to celebrationofsyrah.com. 9-11 Columbia Gorge Passport Weekend. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River participate. The weekend includes a winegrowers fund-raising dinner, pouring and auction for hospice. Go to columbiagorgewine.com. 16-17 Festival of Wine and Flowers, Spokane, Wash. The 19th annual tasting and auction of Washington wines raises money for St. Luke’s Rehabilitation Institute, which stages the event. Cost is $125. Go to festivalofwineandflowers.com. 17-18 Passport to Woodinville, Woodinville, Wash. These are the only two days of the year during which all these wineries are open to the public. Cost is $60 per person. Call 425-205-4394 or go to woodinvillewinecountry.com. 23-25 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases the more than 50 wineries and special seminars in the Northwest’s oldest appellation. Cost is $30. Call 509-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org. 23-25 Astoria-Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival, Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries while enjoying seafood at the mouth of the Columbia River. This marks the event’s 28th year. Call 503-325-6311 or go to oldoregon.com.

May April 30-May 1 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. This is one of two weekends when nearly each winery is open. Call 509-526-3117 or go wallawallawine.com. April 30-May 9 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to owfs.com or call 250-861-6654. 7-9 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Spokane wineries continue to open their doors to visitors on Mother’s Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net. 8 Indie Wine Festival, Portland. Wineries making less than 2,000 cases compete to pour at this block party in the Pearl. Cost is $75. Go to indiewinefestival.com. 8 Ellensburg Wine Festival, Ellensburg, Wash. Nearly 30 wineries are set to pour at this second annual event. Cost is $30. Go to ellensburg-chamber.com. 22-23 North Central Washington Barrel Tasting. Chelan, Cashmere, Leavenworth, Oroville and Wenatchee wineries participate. Go to columbiacascadewines.com. 29-31 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country, Willamette Valley, Ore. This is one of two regional weekends in the valley. Call 503-646-2985 or go to willamettewines.com.

June 6 Taste Washington Spokane. The historic Davenport Hotel plays host to the ninth edition of this event. Cost is $85. Go to tastewashington.org. 13 Sunshine & Wine, Yakima, Wash. Sample wines from the Washington State Wine Competition, watch the awards ceremony, enjoy a five-course dinner and an auction. Cost is $125. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com. 13 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission puts wineries and restaurants on display at the Idaho Botanical Gardens. Cost is $40. Go to savoridaho.org. 19 Winthrop Wine Festival, Winthrop, Wash. More than 20 regional wineries pour near the Methow River. Cost is $30. Go to winthropwashington.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Washington winery finds new uses for old barrels BY JON BAUER

Jarrod Boyle, owner of Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser, Wash., had a problem shared by many winemakers: What do you do with an oak wine barrel once its life in making wine is over? “After spending so much for each barrel, you feel bad about burning it or cutting it in half for a flower pot,” Boyle said. José Luis Yañez, Alexandria Nicole’s viticulture manager and vineyard foreman, shared Boyle’s frustration, so with some downtime over the winter a couple of years ago, Yañez pondered over what he could do with the raw material of oak staves, barrel tops and iron rings. “We’re always thinking green,” Yañez said. “We’ve got all this material, why waste a good barrel? I like building things and had seen some furniture on the Internet, so I tried to make something myself,” he said. He started producing chairs, tables, bar stools, candleholders and a barrel-top Lazy Susan. Over time, the furniture has advanced in complexity to include wine racks and wine bars with space to keep bottles of wine and hang glassware. The furniture made by Yañez and others in his shop is available for sale but also is put to use at Alexandria Nicole’s two

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PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

tasting rooms in Prosser and Woodinville, Wash., and at its Destiny Ridge Vineyard and Winery in the Horse Heaven Hills. And items also are sold at Ranch & Home, a ranch supply and tack store with outlets in Kennewick and Pasco, Wash. It might interest bargain hunters that, compared to similar furniture he’s seen online for $1,000 or more, Yañez said he offers his pieces for $300 to $400, depending on the item. Prosser: 509-786-3497. Woodinville: 425-483-2968.

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Allison Inn brings luxury to Yamhill County BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

The Allison Inn & Spa bills itself as “Oregon Wine Country’s first ever full service resort.” Locals agree the Newberg, Ore., destination resort is something out of the ordinary. “In this area, we have bed-and-breakfasts, and we have a Red Lion, but there’s nothing in between. You know, we needed a decent hotel.” said Peter Rosback, owner/winemaker at Sineann, whose winery is just down the road from The Allison. Rosback also had high praise for Jory, the resort’s restaurant, which is named after the prevailing type of soil that makes many of the northern Willamette Valley’s Pinot Noirs so distinctive. Accommodations start at $295 a night for a deluxe guestroom and max out at $1,100 for two-bedroom suites. Rosback said comparable lodging in the Napa Valley is often double the price.

David Adelsheim, president of Adelsheim Vineyard, who also manages The Allison Inn’s newly planted, 4-acre Pinot Noir vineyard, believes that although the resort is not designed for the budget-conscious, it may be a boon to the area’s wine industry. “The Allison Inn & Spa offers wealthy visitors their first opportunity to stay in Oregon wine country in accommodations at the level they require,” Adelsheim said. “The meeting rooms will bring another set of visitors to the heart of wine country who would otherwise not have left Portland. Both of these groups will substantially increase visitor traffic to wineries.” And this luxury is evident throughout the resort. Even the lower-priced rooms have a gas fireplace, a soaking tub, a bay window seat and a balcony with a view of the surrounding green hills. Overnight guests have access to indoor swimming pools and a fitness room

with state-of-the-art exercise equipment. The resort’s full-service spa offers wine-themed treatments such as the Divine Wine facial, the Grape Seed Cure body scrub, the Mimosa Massage with champagne oil and the Pinot Pedicure. And if these names make you thirsty, you can have a glass of wine delivered to you while having your treatment. Wine lovers will appreciate the resort’s complimentary Thursday night Celebrity Wine-tender events, where local winemakers and wine educators hold tastings. And the wine list offers many other ways to discover new favorites. There are six different sample flights, and patrons are encouraged to design their own. There are eight white wines and nine red wines available by one-ounce tastes, half-glass or full-glass pours. Three sparklers are available by the glass or half-glass and 22 dessert wines are available by the glass. In addition, 44 wines are available by the half-

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Wine Club

Two Bottles of select

Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our

“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.

503-620-6691 800-288-3008

www.pnwc.com 22

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NORTHWEST WINE bottle. In total, the wine list features about 600 wines from more than 120 different producers around the world with a strong emphasis on Northwest wines, Pinot Noir in particular. “I have about 150 different bottles of Pinot Noir including verticals of Beaux Frères going back to 1994, Brickhouse to 1999, Shea Wine Cellars to 2001 and Ken Wright to 2003. Fifteen half-bottle selections of Pinot as well, with more on the way,” said Tom Bean, The Allison’s sommelier and restaurant manager. This collection, in part, explains the Jory’s choice of stemware, Riedel’s Oregon Pinot Noir glasses. Pierre Zreik, The Allison’s managing director, joked about another reason for the choice, “They’ll deport you from Oregon if you don’t have those on the table.” All kidding aside, with its living room lounge, comfy seating around the fireplace, wine bar and restaurant, Ercolino Crugnale, director of food and wine, said The Allison has become a great place for wine lovers to come to see and be seen. “It’s become kind of a gathering place for local wine principals. So you can walk in any night and there’s somebody here. It could be David Adelsheim to Robert Parker to anything in between.”

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PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

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Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Washington wineries score with pin-up girls BY JON BAUER

You don’t have to watch an episode of AMC’s “Mad Men” to know that images of pretty girls have long been a

mainstay of marketing and advertising. Among the more notable examples of fetchingly posed women in the wine industry is Napa Valley winemaker Marilyn Wines, which since 1985 has

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mixed word play and sex appeal in the form of Marilyn Monroe’s image to produce its Marilyn Merlot wines. A handful of Northwest winemakers have gotten into the act, as well, though they’ve arrived at it innocently enough. Airfield Estates can claim a historical link to the images of comely women on its bottles of Bombshell Red and Foot Stomped Syrah Rosé, explains Amy Sonnichsen, assistant general manager for the Prosser, Wash., winemaker. During World War II, the land where Airfield is based was used as a military training base for pilots. The winery’s architecture pays tribute to the past, as do the two wines, with art that would look at home on the nosecone of a B-17 bomber. “Both pay tribute to that heritage,” Sonnichsen said. “It’s not just something that’s fun and stylish; we have that historical tie.” Art for the labels is the work of Augie Pagan, an artist for comic book giant Marvel Comics. And as good things come in threes, just like the Andrews Sisters, Bombshell Red and Foot Stomped Rosé will be joined in April by Fly Girl White. While Marilyn Merlot predates any of the Washington pin-ups, Kestrel Vintners’ Lady in Red wines started the local trend in 2002, said Kestrel’s general manager Mike Birdlebough. Kestrel was looking for a way to market an affordably priced wine in the $15 range that would catch the eye in grocery stores, get people to try the wine and build a base of repeat customers, Birdlebough said. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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NORTHWEST WINE With the help of a marketing class at Columbia Basin College in Pasco, Wash., the students found inspiration in the Vargas Girls pin-ups that inspired the troops during World War II and stuck around after the war. “The goal was to demystify wine and make it fun,” he said. Along with the Lady in Red wines, Kestrel markets a white wine along the same line with its Pure Platinum girls. The students hit on the right formula, he said, and both wines have sold well over the years with art provided by a number of artists. “They make a nice pair,” Birdlebough said. We’re certain no pun was intended. The success of the sultry Lady in Red didn’t go unnoticed by a neighboring winery, Alexandria Nicole Cellars. Jarrod Boyle, co-owner of Alexandria Nicole, said his second label really came about because of the two roads that provide access to their Prosser winery. With a second road came a smaller secondary tasting room, which quickly was identified as The Girl Next Door, playing not only off the nextdoor tasting room, but also off Kestrel’s Lady. The inspiration was obvious. “We’re the Girl Next Door,” Boyle said, and the fun, flirtatious labels soon followed. Boyle is proud of his winery’s neighborly ethic, so he became friends with fellow winemaker Rob Chowanietz at Alder Ridge Winery and hired his wife, Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz, a selfW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

taught but accomplished artist, to design three labels of comely corn-fed females for the Girl Next Door series. For the first label, Inglis-Chowanietz took a pin-up girl she found on the Internet as a starting point, brightened its faded colors and made some changes to make the maiden a better fit with the winery’s character, she said.

Boyle is a staunch believer in friendly competition and how that strengthens the game of everyone, so he was ready for a reaction from Kestrel’s sales director, J.J. Compeau. “He good-naturedly read me the riot act. So I said, ‘What’s the matter? Is my girl better looking than your girl?’ “ Boyle said. “We’re good neighbors.”

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Blue in face? Try this cheese with sweeter NW wines BY ANDY PERDUE

It’s difficult to think of a greater food than cheese. And a rich blue is hard to beat. Willapa Hills Farmstead Cheese is an operation in southwestern Washington that focuses on crafting aged blue cheeses. It is in the Lewis County town of Doty, west of Centralia. All of the cheeses are made from cow and sheep milk, with the sheep being raised by the Hueffed family and the cow milk coming from a nearby family farm. The Hueffeds make fresh seasonal cheeses, yogurt cheeses and aged blues. The Two-Faced Blue is an aged blue made with sheep and cow milk. Luan Schooler is co-owner of Foster & Dobbs, a cheese and wine shop in Portland that carries Willapa Hills cheeses. She suggests Port-style wines or a Chocolate Stout beer with this blue, as well as dessert wines such as the Owen Roe late-harvest Semillon or Andrew Rich Gewürztraminer. “A big, salty, bold blue is a good pairing with something a little sweet and fruity,” she said. Willapa Hills: 360-360-291-3937. Foster & Dobbs: 503-284-1157.

Beginning with this issue, we will feature a Northwest cheese and share pairing tips from regional experts. 26

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Rieslings great value, quality in Pacific Northwest BY “BARGAIN BOB” WOEHLER

The grape: Riesling for all occasions. The word: The Pacific Northwest, espe-

cially Washington, built its reputation for crisp, tasty, low-cost whites on the back of the Riesling grape. And today is no different as this most versatile of the white grapes is still one of the great bargain wines. Favorite Rieslings can be found for under $10. They’re often the best bargains at restaurants. The match: Nats Decants (nataliemaclean.com) says matches for Riesling include Munster cheese, spicy chicken wings, mild coconut curry, any number of Mexican dishes, Hawaiian-influenced pizza, poached salmon, turkey holiday dinner and Greek salad. The bargains: Pacific Rim Winemakers 2007 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, $10:

Great balance and flavors of apple crisp with a peach on top. Barnard Griffin 2008 White Riesling, Columbia Valley, $7: It personifies

Washington Riesling with ripe apples aromas and creamy peach flavors. Hogue Cellars 2008 Late Harvest White Riesling, Columbia Valley, $10:

Honeysuckle, apricots and sweet lemons dominate. About 5% residual sugar and perfectly balanced. Erath 2008 Dry Riesling, Oregon, $10:

Lemon-lime notes with a hint of sweetness and Germanic in style. Washington Hills, 3-liter cask NV Riesling, Washington, $20: This is equivalent to

four bottles at $5 a bottle and just right for a wedding shower. Fragrant peaches and bright acidity. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year

Vin du Lac

BY A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

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AWA R D S

Vin du Lac’s bistro is open year-round.

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early from the beginning, Larry Lehmbecker had a pretty good idea he was onto something. He had moved to one of the most beautiful places in the Pacific Northwest to make wine. Then a wine from his first vintage — a 2002 Syrah — won best in show at the 2004 Capital Food & Wine Festival. “That was pretty cool,” said Lehmbecker, owner and winemaker of our 2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. “It was the first wine event we went to and won best in show, so we figured we must have a little bit of a knack for this.” The next year, his 2003 Cabernet Franc earned a Double Platinum and “best of the best” in Wine Press Northwest’s annual Platinum Judging. Most remarkably of all, each successive vintage of that wine has won a Platinum since (with the 2006 earning the honor two years in a row). Not bad for a guy with no formal training as a winemaker. “The best winemakers don’t necessarily have an academic background,” Lehmbecker said. “Either you have it or you don’t.” Lehmbecker grew up in Renton, Wash. His father worked for Boeing, and it was his mother who got him interested in wine, as she was a home winemaker. “I was inspired by that, so at a young age, I tried winemaking and brewing.” After receiving a degree at the University of Washington, Lehmbecker earned a law degree at the University of California Hastings College of the Law in San Francisco. He moved to Seattle to practice law, which he continues to do to this day. Visits to Napa Valley with friends while in law school fueled Lehmbecker’s interest in wine. In particular, he was inspired by V. Sattui Winery in St. Helena. “We enjoyed the ambiance of

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winery of the year

Napa,” he said. “We were Larry Lehmbecker, learning about what great Vin du Lac’s owner wine was — and that it and winemaker, is was also about having a living his dream on great time with friends Lake Chelan. and enjoying a bottle of wine surrounded by nature. The wine lifestyle allows us to create places where friends and family can come together and have a great time.” He traveled to Europe and was further influenced by Paris and Provence. In 2001, he found a gorgeous piece of property on a bluff overlooking Lake Chelan and began to realize his dream of a commercial winery. “After purchasing it, we had one-and-a-half years before our first crush, so I did everything I could to bring my craft up to a commercial level.” That hard work paid off quickly, as evidenced by early successes. The original name of their operation was the Chelan Wine Co., though they never used that on their label. They realized that the burgeoning wine industry around the lake in north-central Washington likely would spawn a lot of similar names, so they looked to distinguish themselves as well as evoke an image of the lifestyle they were hoping to achieve. Vin du Lac, French for “Wine of the Lake,” was a perfect fit. Launching with the 2002 harvest, Vin du Lac was the third winery to open in what now is the Lake Chelan American Viticultural Area. Today, there are no fewer than 16 wineries. Again inspired by Napa and France, they soon began to provide deli items at the winery. This turned into cheese plates and later paninis. In 2005, they moved to a fullservice bistro that now is open year-round. In the summer, the bistro provides a leisurely respite from the bustle of activity on the lake below. Diners enjoy Frenchinspired cuisine with a Northwest twist using as many regional ingredients as possible. On sunny days — and there are many in Chelan — life can be close to perfect at Vin du Lac. It is exactly the bon 30

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vivant lifestyle Lehmbecker envisioned. “Chelan has been an inspiring place for me,” Lehmbecker said. “For a lot of people, Chelan is special, and I’m one of those people. I just had to be here, so I looked for property for a decade. It’s possible some other place might have had that impact on me, but this was meant to be my place.” Without great wine, however, the slice of paradise he envisioned would have been an empty effort. He originally purchased 20 acres and picked up 14 more along the way. The land had been an orchard since the 1920s, and Lehmbecker planted seven acres of vines in 2002. The winery and bistro have consumed a lot of time — and cash — which have kept him from further plantings, so far. For his first vintage, he traveled to Snipes Mountain in the Yakima Valley, an upthrust near Sunnyside, where Todd Newhouse and his family have grown grapes since the early 1970s. That’s where the grapes for his Cabernet Franc came from, and he continues to bring in Syrah, Merlot and Viognier from Snipes Mountain. Each year, he has added more fruit sources, including Stillwater Creek near Royal City, Sagemoor near Pasco and Weinbau on the Wahluke Slope. All remain important for him, especially for his red wines. But Lehmbecker also sees a great future closer to home. “I’m really jazzed about Chelan grapes,” he said. “This is a unique growing region that has the potential to do some really different stuff.” He works with five growers in Lake Chelan for Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Pinot Noir. “The Rieslings here are superb. We’re working on a very dry style of Riesling, and Tsillan Cellars (across the lake) is making some outstanding Rieslings. That could be a flag bearer for us.”

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28-31 Vin du Lac

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winery of the year

AWARDS INFO H O W T H E PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R I S C H O S E N

The Winery of the Year is selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest and is based on a set of criteria, including longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations. A winery may win the award only once. PA S T PA C I F I C N O RT H W E S T WINERIES OF THE YEAR

Wild Goose Vineyards, Okanagan Falls, B.C. 2 0 0 8 : Dunham Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash. 2 0 0 7 : Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston,

2009:

Ore. 2006:

five years. Barnard Griffin, Richland,

2009 WINNERS

Wash. 2005:

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WA S H I N G T O N W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R :

Ken Wright Cellars, Carlton,

Ore.

Maryhill Winery, Goldendale

L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash. 2 0 0 3 : Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. 2 0 0 2 : Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash.

WA S H I N G T O N W I N E RY T O WAT C H :

2004:

HOW THE REGIONAL WINERIES OF THE YEAR ARE CHOSEN

Regional wineries of the year are selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest based on blind tastings, visits, accolades and other considerations. Wineries of the Year must have completed at least five vintages, while Wineries to Watch must have been in business no more than

He sees Chelan Sauvignon Blanc as being mineral-driven, similar to a northern French style. And Chardonnay here is more Chablis in style than Burgundy because of the higher natural acidity. Surprising even himself, Lehmbecker is having fun exploring Pinot Noir. “I was one of the skeptics about Pinot Noir here,” he admitted. “But now I’m really excited about it and look forward to many years of playing around with Pinot Noir. The late bud break here pushes ripening to later in the year. That seems to be pretty crucial.” He buys Pinot Noir grapes from three vineyards in Chelan and has been pleased with his early efforts. “Pinot Noir is tough, and it takes awhile to figure out. It and Sangiovese have to have the right clone in the right ground. My first Pinots have turned out pretty good. That tells me that if we can get that close and that good on our first couple of attempts, we might be able to do something pretty special here.” He also sees something special ahead for Chelan, which has benefited greatly by a wine industry that is transforming the region from apples and vacations on the lake into something exciting. “The wineries arrived at just the right time to inject some economic vitality,” he said. “Wineries have taken the region from being a two-month season to an eight-month season with aspirations to be a year-round destination. It’s something that’s quickly redefining the Chelan experience.” And Vin du Lac is helping to lead the way. ı

Steppe Cellars, Sunnyside O R E G O N W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R :

Ponzi Vineyards, Beaverton O R E G O N W I N E RY T O WAT C H :

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards, Roseburg B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R : Kettle Valley Winery, Naramata B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A W I N E RY T O

Church & State Wines, Brentwood Bay I D A H O W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R : Bitner Vineyards, Caldwell I D A H O W I N E RY T O WAT C H : Cinder Wines, Boise WAT C H :

GETTING TO VIN DU LAC OF CHELAN

105 Highway 150, Chelan, Wash. 509-682-2882 W E B S I T E : www.vindulac.com H O U R S : Tasting room open noon-5 p.m. daily. Bistro is open year-round, though hours are seasonal. D I R E C T I O N S : From the city of Chelan, drive northwest (right side of the lake) on Highway 150. After about a half-mile, turn left on Spader Bay Drive. ADDRESS:

PHONE:

A N D Y P ERD U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page

designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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into our 2010 Washington Winery of the Year. And their empire continues to grow. “We must be up to about 15 different wines, which is fun and it helps with the A.D.D. because you don’t have to focus on one thing all the time,” Johnson said. Perhaps the crowning achievement of their efforts is the 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, which features Wisconsin oak. It finished No. 1 in Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 judging of 134 Northwest-built Cabs, grabbed a gold at the Seattle Wine Awards, then went on to earn a Double Platinum in our year-ending Corey Braunel, competition of international left, and Chad and gold-medal winners. Janet Johnson. “There’s a lot of pride in PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM that bottle,” Braunel said. “It was the first time for us farming our own fruit.” Rather than flirt with disaster, they sealed that wine — and everything else after 2005 — with screwcap. That includes the Dusted Valley 2007 Grenache from the Columbia Valley, which also received a Platinum after winning a double gold at the 2009 Walla Walla, Wash. San Francisco Chronicle. “As far as we know, we are the only BY E R I C D E G E R M A N winery in Washington that does all o Corey Braunel, Chad screwcap, whether it’s on the highJohnson and their 4,000 end or value stuff,” Johnson said. e-mail fans, the address of The story of Dusted Valley is far Dusted Valley Vintners might as well from stale. Johnson and his wife, read, “Walla Walla, Wis.” Janet, were living in Portland and The fun-loving brothers-in-law trying to sell the wine-loving Braunel embrace and play off their and Janet’s sister, Cindy, on moving Wisconsin cheese-head heritage. to Walla Walla to chase their dream And while there’s a lot of levity together. bouncing around their 4,000-case “We were all born and raised in facility, the wines are serious, stunWisconsin,” Braunel said. “I grew up ning and consistent. on a cultivated ginseng farm, and “Crack the cap” reads the invitaour family had exported crops to tion to their screwcap wines. “The Hong Kong for 40 years. By the time first two glasses are for your health. I came home from college, the farm The second two are for ours!” pretty much wasn’t around because That’s how Dusted Valley evolved the market had changed, so I landed

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on the corporate ladder in medical supplies and marketing.” In 2003, they dived in with 13 tons of grapes and never looked back. Johnson took the winemaking lead because of his background in food science. He learned on the fly and under the wing of Whitman Cellars winemaker Steve Lessard. Braunel focuses on business administration, but as co-winemaker he’s with Johnson every step of the way. “Janet still has the day job, in pharmaceutical sales,” Braunel said. “We joke around here that she supports us all in the family habit.” The natives of “Sconni” — slang for Wisconsin — produced 700 cases in 2003. They’ve increased production each year by about 1,000 cases, leveling off at 4,000 cases. That doesn’t count the popular consumer-priced Boomtown brand, which includes about 20 percent DVV juice. Wahluke Wine Co. births it in Mattawa, Wash., and Johnson said they plan to grow Boomtown “aggressively” beyond its current production of 15,000 cases. “It has allowed us to partner with a great winemaker in Gordon Hill, but we’re involved with all the blending, all the oaking and all the decisions,” Braunel said. “Our goal is to make the best $15 bottle of Washington wine on the shelf.” Last year also saw their Woodinville tasting gallery flourish and the hiring of chef Andrae Bopp, a refugee of Boise’s crumbling restaurant scene. Next up is “Wallatage,” a 2007 two-barrel lot of Bordeaux varieties from the vineyards they farm or own — including 17 acres “in the rocks” adjacent to Cayuse Vineyards. And, for the record, Wallatage rhymes with an artist’s collage, not meritage. “Besides,” Johnson said, “the “ah” works better with the Sconni accent.” ı Dusted Valley Vintners, 1248 Old Milton Highway, Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-525-1337, www.dustedvalley.com

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washington winery to watch Marcus Miller, winemaker at Airfield Estates.

PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

Airfield Estates Prosser, Wash. BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

here’s more to Airfield Estates than the clever architecture travelers see while driving past Prosser’s Vintners Village at 70 mph on Interstate 82. Indeed, the wines by Marcus Miller — made from his father’s fruit — deserve more than a fly-by. While there’s a fascinating history to the vineyard and slick marketing behind the brand, what is under the screwcaps is why Wine Press Northwest named Airfield Estates its 2010 Washington Winery to Watch. “We started this project back in 2006, and Dad’s only real statement was ‘Marcus, with this winery we are going to brand our vineyard,’ ” Miller said. “Dad said, ‘We’ve got a great history with our old air base, and we’re going to showcase that with our architecture and our wines.’ ” Airport Ranches has been in the Miller family for four generations. The name dates to 1942 when the federal government swooped in and built a World War II air base on their Prosser farm. It likely served as a W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

defense post for Hanford’s portion of the Manhattan Project, but the family never was given an official reason. “When they left in 1945, we retained all the buildings,” Miller said. “We still have a couple of the hangars that we farm out of.” In 2009, it was impossible to overlook Airfield Estates in our judgings. The 2007 Aviator Red Wine, a blend of five Bordeaux varieties, 2007 Bombshell Red, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2007 Syrah all earned “Outstanding!” That Cab ranked 15th in our judging of 135 Northwest Cabs. Miller’s 2006 Cab got our top rating in a judging earlier in 2009. The Millers also dominated the Best Buy white section in our Fall 2009 edition. The Unoaked Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Thunderbolt blend from the 2008 vintage each received a rating of “Excellent.” The 2007 Chardonnay, 2007 Lightning White Wine, 2008 Late Harvest Riesling and 2008 Foot-Stomped Rosé also landed the same rating. In 2002, Miller could not see himself making 4,000 cases of wine each year. In fact, he grew up a Christian Scientist. Mom remains a teetotaler, and Dad rarely imbibes. He played varsity tennis and ran cross country at a small college in Illinois and earned a master’s in

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business adminstration at North Texas University. He also disdained working the 850-acre vineyard that his father began in 1968. “But there was something about being in a cubicle,” Marcus said with a chuckle. So he gave the vineyard another try. “Dad and I were butting heads, telling me that I should be out there on the sprayer,” he said. “It just didn’t seem like it was going to work.” The defining moment came at the 2003 Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers convention. Ted Baseler, chief executive of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, delivered a speech extolling the world-class quality of Washington wines. “It dawned on me how fortunate I was to be in a position with a family vineyard,” he said. “And being fresh from academia, I could relate a lot better to winemakers than farmers.” So Miller, with the help of a racquetball foe/buddy — the late Stan Clarke — got fast-tracked through Clarke’s winemaking program at Walla Walla Community College. He began to work his way back home in 2004 by landing a job as an assistant winemaker to Katy Perry at Tsillan Cellars in Chelan, Wash. In 2005, after working crush in New Zealand, Miller and Peter Devison returned to Tsillan Cellars as co-winemakers when Perry started her winery. Now, the Millers keep most of their best fruit, about 8 percent. And none of their wine has been under cork. “There’s not a person on the planet that I might loathe more than a cork salesman,” Marcus said. “They said we were going to go under and that no one would embrace us. They were all wrong. Screwcaps have been really good for us, and it shows us as being innovative.” And now the flight plan for Airfield Estates is to open another terminal, of sorts, in Woodinville — not far from Chateau Ste. Michelle. ı Airfield Estates, 560 Merlot Dr., Prosser, WA, 99350, 509-786-7401, www.airfieldwines.com. W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 1 0

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vineyards: Resonance in Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton District, Champoux in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills, The Pines near The Dalles, Ore., Celilo Vineyard in Washington’s Columbia Gorge. The list goes on. It started in 1994, when Rosback and David O’Reilly launched Sineann, the Gaelic name for Ireland’s River Shannon. As an amateur winemaker, the Indiana native had sought out top grape sources. The savvy Rosback quickly learned that if you offer to pay top dollar in cash and pick your own grapes, you have a pretty good chance of getting what you want. That first year, he made 125 cases of Zinfandel from century-old vines at The Pines Vineyard. It didn’t take PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM long for word to get out about the wine, and that made it easier for him to get into other vineyards he likes. “Once wines turn out well, other Newberg, Ore. people want to sell you their grapes,” Rosback said. “By and large, BY A N D Y P E R D U E growers take pride in what they do” y strict definition, Sineann is and want their grapes to become an Oregon winery. But look a great wines. bit closer, and one can only These days, Rosback makes no describe owner and winemaker fewer than 30 different wines under Peter Rosback as a New World winethe Sineann label, totaling 10,000 maker. cases. On one hand, he knows he Not only does he cross the has enough and even threatens to Columbia River to bring in grapes scale that number back. On the from Washington, but he also goes other, he’s still an explorer, a seeker south to California’s Napa Valley. And of great grapes and interesting when it’s springtime in Oregon, wines. Rosback heads to New Zealand to pro“I’m bigger than I need to be,” duce Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. he said. “I’m sticking with the stuff “I make wines that I love,” I really, really love. During the Rosback said. “If you love Cabernet, worst of these (economic) times, I you could hardly do better than have three categories selling very, Washington! It gets ripe, it has natuvery well. Anything from ral acidity. It’s the best stuff on Champoux Vineyards flies out the Earth.” door,” as well as his Old Vine Looking at Rosback’s lineup, it’s a Zinfandel and Resonance Vineyard veritable who’s who of Northwest Pinot Noir. Peter Rosback discusses alternatives to corks.

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“So I’m pretty well branched out already.” Then he added, “If I could, however, I would love to make a Grüner Veltliner.” And a Nebbiolo. And a Petit Verdot. “If I could make a great Grüner, I’d be happy,” he said with a laugh. Like many wineries in the northern Willamette Valley, Sineann is open only on event weekends (Memorial Day and Thanksgiving) and has open houses for those on its mailing list. In fact, Rosback makes his wines at Medici Vineyards. However, last year, Rosback added a tasting room in Newberg near George Fox University with Medici that is open daily. Primarily, the increased wine tourism created the need for a full-time tasting room. However, Rosback prefers to be the one to greet visitors at the winery. “We should go out of our way to make visitors feel good, and tasting rooms don’t quite do that,” he said. “People are looking for more than wine; they want an experience, too.” Rosback’s experiences with cork led him to be a pioneer with a glass stopper called the Vino-Seal, which is made by Alcoa, a company best known for its aluminum products. His anger with natural corks and their ability to ruin wine forced his hand in 2005. He was the first winery in the United States to order the classy-looking glass stoppers, though another Oregon winery bottled with them a week earlier. “I haven’t opened a single bad bottle” since switching to the Vino-Seal, Rosback said. “The wines age well, and when you open them side by side, it’s amazing. The fruit is fresh, more primary, yet it still ages well. “The cork ship has sailed.” These days, Rosback is sailing along as one of the finest producers in the Pacific Northwest. ı Sineann, 28005 N.E. Bell Road, Newberg, Ore. Tasting room: 1505 Portland Road (Highway 99W), Newberg. 503-538-2427, www.sineann.com.

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examples of critical acclaim. The Watermill 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2006 Estate Midnight Red Wine both were awarded a Platinum in Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 Platinum Competition. In January, Watermill’s 2008 Late Harvest Gewurztraminer captured the Dessert Sweepstakes at the 2010 San Francisco Chronicle — the world’s largest competition of American wines. A product of Biscuit Ridge Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley, Brown’s wine was the only one from the Northwest to win a sweepstakes award in the Sonoma judgLeft to right, Andrew Brown, ing. winemaker, Nancy Kezele, “That was one of the cult assistant manager and wines in Walla Walla when it owner, and Leonard Brown, was made at Three Rivers — viticulturist and owner. one that people would PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM come running for, and we’ve found the same results,” Brown said. “Duane Wollmuth still owns the vineyard, and we harvested 4.2 tons that year. Last year, there was a lot of animal damage, so I was only able to pick up a ton. But it’s still a fun wine and it was definitely Milton-Freewater, Ore. my favorite ferment of 2008.” Judges also admired other BY E R I C D E G E R M A N Watermill wines in 2009. ndrew Brown gushes about The 2006 Walla Walla Valley Syrah the Walla Walla Valley family won gold at the 2009 Northwest fruit he works with. Wine Summit, and that 2006 Cab One day, he could be crushing also earned double gold at the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. Seattle Wine Awards and gold at the Another day, he might be juicing 2009 San Francisco International. Jonagold apples. Brown, 26, who has taken a few “I knew that I was going to come classes in the wine program at Walla back to the family business,” Brown Walla Community College, is quick said. “I just didn’t know it was going to heap credit upon his family and to be on the wine side.” Richard Funk of Saviah Cellars. While Brown and his family oper“I went to the Rich Funk school of ate a top-flight cidery and the largest winemaking,” Brown said. “Everyapple-packing house in Oregon, thing I know I owe to Rich.” their 5-year-old winery has fast Their close relationship began in become world-class. 2001 when the Brown family purThis winter marked the latest chased 100 cases of Saviah Cellars

wine to include in Blue Mountain Cider Co. gift boxes. “I was going to HVAC school and needed a job, and Rich needed a guy from 5 p.m. to midnight to rack (Saviah Cellars) wine every night,” Brown said. “So we worked the night shift, and it worked out perfect for both of us. We had a lot of good times.” In 2005, three generations of Browns entered the wine business with 1,800 cases. Funk was the head winemaker. Andrew was the assistant. He took over for the 2008 harvest, which will result in 3,800 cases and nine offerings from 75 acres of estate vineyards. First planted was the Anna Marie block (2001), which overlooks the Walla Walla Valley and supplies fruit for Northstar Winery. McClellan Estate got started in 2003. It’s adjacent to Seven Hills Vineyard and owned by the mother of Casey McClellan — winemaker of Seven Hills Winery. However, the Browns farm it for Saviah, Seven Hills and, of course, Watermill. And then there’s Watermill Estate, a 12-acre site set in cobblestones of the ancient riverbed in 2006. “My house is in that vineyard, and I could throw a rock and hit Cayuse’s winery,” Brown said. “Those grapes already are producing intense colors in the Malbec, Syrah and Cab Franc.” And then there’s 1,200 acres of orchard fruit. It’s a bushel of a responsibility for the husband and father of two girls. “I’m always making cider,” Brown said with a chuckle. “I’ve made 5,000 gallons in the past three days. With the ability of cold storage and controlled atmosphere, we can store apples up to 12 months.” But his wine is the apple of our eye. ı

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Watermill Winery

Watermill Winery, 235 E. Broadway, Milton-Freewater, OR, 97862, 541-938-5575, www.watermillwinery.com

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working at a high-end bar in London, he caught the wine bug, moved back to Vancouver, B.C., began studying wine and worked at such restaurants as Cin Cin and C as sômmelier. They met in 2000 and were engaged three months later. They decided to move to the wine side of the business, with Heidi working for an importer of Old World wines, and Michael taking a New World focus. By this point, they knew they wanted to make wine. On a 2002 trip to the Okanagan Valley for a winemaker’s birthday party, they happened upon a house on 5 acres of property that was almost in their price range. They saw this as the opportunity to fulfill a dream that had been fermenting for a few years. For four years, they ran a Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn highly successful cooking school that included big counPHOTO BY CHRIS MASON STEARNS try dinners and a guest house. The result was Heidi’s first book, called Menus for an Orchard Table, published in 2007. Its focus was recipes using fresh Naramata, B.C. regional ingredients, a theme that resonates deep with the couple. BY A N D Y P E R D U E In 2004, they launched Joie, a n a time when red wine rules, French word for “joy.” They financed JoieFarm in Naramata, B.C., is that first vintage with credit cards, a defying the odds. seemingly high-risk move. It took But Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn one week to sell all their wines to have never been the types to play by Vancouver restaurants. others’ rules, preferring to follow “Our philosophy from the get-go their passions and hearts over what was to take what the land and climate would otherwise be perceived as give us,” Michael said. “We had seen a conventional wisdom. real shift from white varieties such as Since launching JoieFarm in 2004, Auxerrois and Ehrenfelser to a gold they have challenged the establishrush for reds that are $50 a bottle.” ment and are crafting some of the They noticed that with all the most charismatic wines in North plantings in the Okanagan Valley, the America. average age of vines was (and Both come from a restaurant backremains) 6 years old. ground. Heidi has been cooking pro“You don’t make the most interestfessionally since she was 14 and ing wines from young vines,” he said. graduated from the illustrious “We looked at the whole thing and Stratford Chefs School in Ontario, saw the oldest plantings were Canada. Michael put himself through Germanic. So we decided to go where college working in restaurants. While (other winemakers) weren’t going.”

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Their hard work paid off quickly. In 2007, they were named Wine Press Northwest’s British Columbia Winery to Watch. In 2008, their rosé was featured as a by-the-glass pour at Chez Panisse, run by Heidi’s hero, the incomparable Alice Waters. Last year, the rosé and Edelzwicker-style wine, called A Noble Blend, landed on Chez Panisse’s wine list. “That’s one of the coolest things to happen to us,” Michael said. Last fall, in Wine Press Northwest’s Platinum Judging, the JoieFarm 2008 Riesling finished No. 1 out of 450 gold medal-winning wines, making it “the best of the best in the Great Northwest.” Remarkably, the 2008 Noble Blend finished No. 2. The pair make 10,000 cases that include seven wines: five whites, a rosé and a red. Conventional wisdom would dictate that this would not be a successful model, but JoieFarm is proving this wrong. Rather than being powerful statements, their wines reveal delicacy, elegance and finesse. Perhaps the most extraordinary part of the JoieFarm story is the reason for these wines: They are not just made to go with food; rather, they are crafted to pair specifically with cuisine in Vancouver, where 80 percent of the wines are sold. Michael said the style of cooking in Vancouver has changed dramatically in the past 20 years. Chefs have become much more interested in ingredients that are fresh, regional and seasonal. Fish is big, as is the influence of a growing Asian population. “That’s how people eat in Vancouver, and we’re very influenced by this. That’s had a huge impact on the kinds of wines we make. We’re really restaurant focused with what we do.” With JoieFarm’s wines, the proof of this is in each bottle and with every meal they are consumed with. ı JoieFarm, 2825 Naramata Road, Naramata, B.C., 250-496-0073, www.joiefarm.com.

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british columbia winery to watch The Martiniuk family named its vineyard after the device once used to remove stones before planting.

PHOTO BY J. KEVIN DUNN

Stoneboat Vineyards Oliver, B.C. BY A N D Y P E R D U E

hen Lanny and Julie Martiniuk sought an apt name for their vineyard, they had to look no farther than the thousands of rocks that had been pulled from their ground over the decades. The land had been planted to orchards in the 1950s, and the original owners had used a sledge — known as a “stoneboat” — to haul the rocks to the edge of the property. The devices, hauled by animals until the advent of tractors, were used extensively in the Prairies. “The story of the land here is ‘hard work,’ ” said Lanny Martiniuk. “When you plant or put in a post, everything is trouble. As long as I’ve had this place, it’s just been brutal for breaking equipment. The name is a tribute to the people who were ahead of me and how hard it was to grow anything here.” The rocks are remnants of past ice ages, when relentless glaciers ground granite into gravel and

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carved out the 100-mile-long Okanagan Valley. Here on this area of the venerable Black Sage Bench — just north of the U.S. border — the top 18 inches of soil is sand, and the next 150 feet down are rocks. This is not easy land to farm, but what doesn’t kill you can make you stronger — and the grapes the Martiniuks grow here are testament to that philosophy. Martiniuk was a nuclear medicine technician in Vancouver, B.C., when the family decided to move to the Okanagan in the late 1970s and buy the orchard. A neighbor was growing grapes, and Martiniuk followed suit, planting all European varieties. This was a rarity in the province back then, as the majority of vines were FrenchAmerican hybrids. With the advent of the free-trade agreement, the B.C. wine industry decided to start over, pulling out most of the vines in the late 1980s and replanting to vinifera. Stoneboat was part of the 500 acres that survived the pullout, as Martiniuk had planted primarily Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinotage and other wine grapes. He also grew experimental vines: “We were growing grapes nobody hears about anymore. Russian varieties, etc.” For nearly a quarter-century, Martiniuk sold his grapes to others,

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primarily Vincor, which owns many of the province’s largest producers. In 2000, Martiniuk read a report out of California’s Napa Valley that it was becoming increasingly difficult to continue to farm wine grapes without additional products, namely wine. “If you don’t do value-added, you can’t afford your own land,” he said. “You’d never make enough money off grapes to pay for land. I am passionate about my land, and I have three sons. We decided that maybe it was time for us to take the plunge and do a winery or we might not be able to pass this along to our kids.” One of their sons, Jay, was in a car accident about this time, which kept him from immediately returning to college in Ontario. His time spent working with his parents in the vineyard germinated a love for the land, and he decided to pursue winemaking as a vocation. Their first vintage came in 2005, with a consulting winemaker helping the family produce the wines. Today, about 30 percent of the grapes are used to craft 3,500 cases of Stoneboat Vineyards wines. Everything is made by the family with occasional help from nearby winemakers. Stoneboat caught our attention last summer, when its 2008 Faux Pas Rosé (a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris) finished No. 3 out of 66 Northwest rosés we judged blind. Stoneboat also has earned prestigious awards for its Pinot Noir and Pinotage. Easily the most fascinating wine at Stoneboat is called Verglas. It’s a dessert wine made from the rare Oraniensteiner grape, which is covered with the fungus botrytis cinerea. The result is a trockenbeerenauslese style of wine that is 50 brix at harvest and picked when the grapes are frozen on the vine. The winery’s tasting room is open daily from mid-April through midOctober. It is about a half-mile from Burrowing Owl Vineyards. ı Stoneboat Vineyards, 7148 Orchard Grove Lane, Oliver, B.C., 250-498-4714, www.stoneboatvineyards.com.

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Left to right, Warren Schutz, winemaker, Kimber Gates, co-owner and general manager, and Sarah Jane Gates, coowner and label artist. PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

Coeur d’Alene Cellars Coeur d’Alene, Idaho BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

here is little doubt that Idaho’s Lake City is home to one of the best producers of Rhone varieties in the Northwest. Why Coeur d’Alene Cellars belongs in that discussion — and rates as Wine Press Northwest’s 2010 Idaho Winery of the Year — deserves some explanation. “It does create a bit of confusion sometimes being an Idaho winery with Washington grapes,” said Kimber Gates, co-owner and general manager of Coeur d’Alene Cellars. It might have made more sense to open the winery in Walla Walla — where Gates graduated from college — or Prosser, which is close to many of her vineyard sources. But Coeur d’Alene is an established tourist destination with vacation homes. It’s also her hometown, where her parents live and where she wants to raise her daughter, Scarlet Louise.

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“Syrah and Viognier have been our focus since 2002,” Gates said. “We wanted to make the best wines that we could with those varieties, and it make sense for us to go to Washington for that fruit. “We thought about Idaho grapes, but to go to southern Idaho is an eight- to nine-hour drive for us,” Gates continued. “And that is a hard drive. You can’t go through Idaho. It’s through Montana or Oregon. From that standpoint, it makes more sense for people from Walla Walla to make wine from Idaho grapes than us.” The recent body of work by winemaker Warren Schutz extends tradition as Coeur d’Alene Cellars was our Idaho Winery to Watch in 2006. For a variety of reasons, Coeur d’Alene Cellars won’t generate a lot of press from medals. Gates prefers reviews from publications vs. awards from competitions. And Schutz’s wines continue to shine in Wine Press Northwest’s double-blind judgings. The 2006 Envy Syrah and 2006 Boushey Vineyard Syrah each received our highest rating of “Outstanding!” So did the regular 2005 Syrah, their largest production at their 4,000-case winery. Another gem was the 2006 Mo, their first single-variety bottling of Mourvèdre and named after the

neighborhood’s resident pheasant. “He’s around more in the fall because he eats the grape seeds from our crush pad,” Gates said. When it comes to whites, the 2007 Chardonnay also rated “Outstanding!” Both Viogniers, including the L’Artiste — a tribute to Kimber’s artistic mother, Sarah Jane — were “Excellent.” Schutz, who arrived in 2004, produces at least five different Syrahs each year‚ including vineyard designates from Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills) and Stillwater Creek near Royal City. McKinley Springs, CDA Cellars’ first Horse Heaven Hills source in 2003, dominates every vintage of the Opulence Syrah. A sixth Syrah came from the 2006 vintage — Cloud Nine. “At $22, it’s our ‘recession red,’ ” Gates quipped. Coeur d’Alene Cellars pulled back a bit last year, closing its downtown tasting gallery and transforming it into a venue for private parties and the monthly art walk. “It was getting hard for me to balance raising Scarlet, being at the winery full-time and also running the wine bar,” Gates said. One job Gates won’t give up is driving the truck during crush. 3 “We have a 1999 Dodge Ram ⁄4 ton that’s red and has ‘Coeur d’Alene Cellars’ on the side, and I haul a 25-foot flatbed gooseneck trailer,” she said. “I have a cowboy hat that I wear, and I put on my tank top and shorts. I get some strange looks.” It also means many trips. She can haul five tons at time, and most of her vineyard contracts crop the 1 grapes down to 3 ⁄2 tons per acre. Among the products of those trips in 2009 will be a dry rosé from — what else? — Syrah. “There’s been a bad name in the market place for Syrah,” Gates said. “There were some poorly made ones, and it was overproduced, but I think people are opening up to Syrahs again, especially in Washington.” ı Coeur d’Alene Cellars, 3890 N. Schreiber Way, Coeur d’Alene, ID, 83815, 208-664-2336, www.cdacellars.com.

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how to make wine,” Davis said It would seem as though they’ve all taught her well. Her medal count from the 2009 Idaho Wine Competition hints at a harbinger of consistency. She entered nine wines, eight of which garnered a medal. Her 2007 Malbec impressed every judge, receiving a coveted double gold. The 2007 Tempranillo also won a gold medal. The showing was remarkable considering 2007 was the first harvest for Davis Creek Cellars. She also displays skill with her white program, earning an “Outstanding!” rating from Wine Press Northwest in 2009 for her Pinot Grigio. That time with Sawtooth and Pintler — one of the Gina Davis Northwest’s most adventurPHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM ous winemakers and growers — helps explain why the 1,200 cases produced at Davis Creek Cellars incorporates 14 varieties. “We were doing 26 varieties (at Sawtooth). Eventually, I’ll end up getting close to that,” Davis said Caldwell, Idaho with hearty laugh. BY E R I C D E G E R M A N Davis took viticulture classes at Washington State University, but she Gina Davis harvested experience received degrees in horticulture and and gleaned expertise from several crop science in Moscow. She wears of Idaho’s largest wineries and most her University of Idaho Vandals colrespected winemakers. ors and stays true to Idaho fruit — The University of Idaho graduate when she can. has grown into her own as a wineHowever, that delicious 2007 Pinot maker, and her Davis Creek Cellars Grigio came off Pontin Vineyard in emerged as Wine Press Northwest’s the Yakima Valley. For years, that site 2010 Idaho Winery to Watch. factored into Hogue Cellars’ awardHer resumé shows vintages with winning Pinot Grigio. Koenig Vineyards, Ste. Chapelle and “In Idaho, we had a bad frost in Sawtooth Winery. The first releases 2007, and we were short on most of under her label revealed influences the whites,” Davis said. “Someone from all three, particularly Sawtooth. that I know suggested that we give that vineyard a try, and we’ve been “I worked with Brad Pintler at really happy with it.” Sawtooth for three years, and that’s Davis Creek Cellars also makes a really where I got my hands dirty, Pontin Vineyard Malbec, and she learned how the process works and

sources Tempranillo and Touriga from Washington’s famed Red Mountain appellation. “We’re getting a little short of Tempranillo in the Snake River Valley because too many wineries want to make Tempranillo,” Davis said. “It’s the same with Malbec.” Last year, her largest bottlings were of Pinot Gris and Viognier, both at 140 cases. This year, she expects Tempranillo to surpass them both. “Most of the varieties that I do, there’s less than seven acres of them planted in the valley,” she said. “Malbec and Tempranillo, Touriga, Syrah and Merlot do well here, they just don’t have the acreage to support everyone.” There’s a sweeter side to Davis as she makes two dessert-style wines. There’s the Boise Blanco Late Harvest Riesling and a Late Harvest Syrah, which she calls Up A Creek! And she also kicks back with her hobby — quilting. “There are a few of us in the industry that quilt,” she said. “We call ourselves ‘The Quilting Winos’ because we’re either quilting or making wine — and that’s about all we seem to get done sometimes.” Aside from her parents, Davis works Davis Creek Cellars by herself, too. “My dad is basically my cellar rat,” she said with a smile. Her operation also involves some travel. Besides trips to the vineyards, there’s her tasting room in Marsing. Her parents pour for her at the farmers market every Saturday in Boise, and her wines now are made in Caldwell at the new University of Idaho business incubator. In 2007 and 2008, she crushed at Koenig. “The university is going to give us either two bays or one giant bay that’s all joined together,” Davis said with a smile. “They came in and said they didn’t realize a winery needs this much space.” ı

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Davis Creek Cellars

Davis Creek Cellars, 429 Main St., Suite 101, Marsing, ID, 83639, 208-794-2848, daviscreekcellars.com.

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER

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WINE COUNTRY: SPOKANE

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories:

BY ANDY PERDUE

Merlot

Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Still Standing

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

decade ago, Merlot was a favorite son in Washington. In fact, the red grape of Bordeaux was nearly synonymous with Washington wine. Along the way, interest in Merlot has not necessarily waned, but it hasn’t skyrocketed either. For example, in 2001, Washington harvested 23,400 tons of Merlot. Last fall, that number was 24,800. In 2001, Merlot was Washington’s No. 2 grape, behind Chardonnay. By last fall, it was No. 4, behind Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. The reasons for this lack of growth for Merlot are many. A decade ago, interest in Syrah quickly rose, garnering a lot of attention from winemakers and consumers alike. Since 2001, the amount of Riesling harvested in Washington has tripled. And Cabernet Sauvignon — referred to by many winemakers as “King Cab” — has steadily marched forward. And, of course, the 2004 Oscarnominated Sideways disparaged Merlot in the eyes of America in one five-second scene. For consumers, Merlot often is viewed as the unsophisticated little brother to Cab. It’s supposed to be simpler, smoother and less expensive. Yet in Washington in particular, Merlot is often a more muscular wine than Cab. And the reason has to do with the Columbia Valley’s soil. British wine writer Jancis Robinson wrote in her book Vines, Grapes & Wines that Merlot tends to

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grow very well in high-quality soils and can get too vigorous, resulting in green wines. Washington wine country, however, has perfectly lousy soils. They’re sandy and don’t hold water. The near-constant sun provides plenty of heat and little precipitation. Vines struggle to survive. And what doesn’t kill them helps them produce grapes that can make great wines. “You have to be really careful with too much vigor,” said Mike Januik, owner/winemaker of Januik Winery in Woodinville and winemaker for Novelty Hill. “If you aren’t careful, you can get too much of that herbal character because we’re much more careful with crop levels.” In our blind judging of 155 Northwest Merlots, three wines made by Januik earned our top “Outstanding” rating. The former Chateau Ste. Michelle head winemaker has been making Washington wine since 1984 and Merlot since 1987. The secret to his success is to have focus. “I’ve been doing Merlot for a long time, and I have a really clear idea of the style of wine I want to make. I’m big on having a clear style and trying to be true to it.” Two of Januik’s favorite vineyards are Klipsun on Red Mountain and Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills near Royal City, Wash. “If I were to pick the best variety for these two vineyards, I would pick Merlot,” he said. As for the future of Merlot, Januik

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy! A wine that is $15 or under. Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. CDN: Canadian dollars.

isn’t too concerned. “People are still interested in Merlot,” he said. “Yes, Cab is king. But there’s still considerable interest in Merlot, though not at the same price point as Cab. People have gotten past Sideways, too, because our Merlot reminds them more of Cab than Merlot.” In our judging, 15 wines earned our top “Outstanding” rating. While Washington wines dominated the results, wineries from British Columbia and Oregon also showed their prowess with Merlot. Our judges included Kate Michaud, winemaker for Covey Run Winery; David “Merf ” Merfeld, winemaker for Northstar Winery; Charlie Hoppes, owner/winemaker of Fidelitas Wines; Thomas HenickKling, director of viticulture and enology for Washington State University; Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor; Coke Roth, former wine distributor and longtime member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; and David Seaver, member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. Hank Sauer facilitated the judging and ensured it was conducted properly and the results were

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accurate. Though the three winemakers had wines in the competition, they did not judge them. The judging was conducted Jan. 23 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

OUTSTANDING Whitman Cellars $32 2005 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Steve Lessard learned his craft in California before migrating to Washington in the mid-1990s. He has led this Walla Walla, Wash., winery’s superb efforts since 2002, and this is among the finest wines he has crafted to date. Lessard blended 80% Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Cabernet Franc from Pepper Bridge and Birch Creek vineyards. The resulting wine is a classic Washington Merlot with aromas of cranberries, pomegranates and raspberries, followed by flavors of bright red flavors backed with fruit-lifting acidity. It is elegantly balanced with ripe fruit, well-integrated oak and mild tannins, all of which give way to a lingering finish that includes dark

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chocolate. (728 cases, 14.3% alc.) Januik Winery $25 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley As head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle, Mike Januik became well versed in where Washington’s best Merlot was grown. In the 11 years since leaving Washington’s flagship winery, he has continued to evolve his winemaking style. This Merlot (blended with 5% Cab and 1% Cab Franc) comes from four top vineyards: Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Weinbau and Conner Lee. The resulting wine provides aromas of red currants, Bing cherries and a whisper of smokiness, followed by bright, rich flavors of Rainier cherries that lead to a luscious jamminess on the midpalate and a lengthy finish. (1,251 cases, 14.4% alc.) La Stella Winery $85 CDN 2007 Maestoso Merlot, Okanagan Valley This young winery near the U.S. border is headed by Daniel Bontorin, who was the head winemaker for sister winery Le Vieux Pin before coming to La Stella. This Merlot is La Stella’s flagship wine, and the grapes were grown at a remarkable one ton per acre. It opens with aromas of cranberries and red cherries, followed by focused, concentrated flavors of Van cherries, raspberry jam and complex dark fruit. Backing all the

fruit are well-balanced tannins, providing this wine with near-perfect structure for aging it a decade or more. (125 cases, 14.8% alc.) Novelty Hill $28 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley Stillwater Creek is the estate vineyard for this Woodinville, Wash., winery. In fact, winemaker Mike Januik was instrumental in the decision to plant the vineyard in the Frenchman Hills above the town of Royal City. It’s a remarkable vineyard, and winemakers around the state have been gravitating toward it for the past several years. This is a classic Washington Merlot, with aromas of wild sage and Bing cherries, followed by concentrated flavors of black olives, dark cherries and even some dark chocolate on the finish. (171 cases, 14.4% alc.) Saviah Cellars $45 2006 Reserve Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Richard Funk has made his reputation for stunning red wines. This reserve wine uses grapes from his estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley that were aged 21 months in French oak barrels. The result is a superb Merlot with aromas of black plums, sweet spices and chocolate, followed by flavors of ripe black cherries backed with

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black olives and dark chocolate. It opens with fairly dense tannins that mellow quickly in the face of a freight train of fruit that results in a balanced, beautiful wine. (100 cases, 14.1% alc.) Januik Winery $35 2007 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain Perhaps the most famous vineyard in Washington, Klipsun is on warm Red Mountain, on the eastern edge of the Yakima Valley. Klipsun has a reputation for grapes that become bold wines, though in the hands of a great winemaker, they can be tamed. Owner/winemaker Mike Januik blended 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, which added structure and just the right amount of boldness to this silky wine. It reveals aromas of raspberries, dried cherries, milk chocolate and Graham crackers, followed by flavors of ripe strawberries and well-managed oak, all backed by silky tannins. This is a juicy, generous wine. (171 cases, 14.2% alc.) Nk’Mip Cellars $27 CDN 2007 Qwam Qwmt Merlot, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Randy Picton joined this operation near the U.S. border in time for its first harvest in 2002 and has turned it into one of the province’s finest producers. This reserve-level Merlot reveals complex aromas

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of red and dark cherries with hints of vanilla and oak. On the palate are flavors of ripe black cherries and delicious raspberries. Assertive tannins back up all the fruit. This is a big wine with a bold finish and could use a marbled ribeye to tame it a bit. (2,696 cases, 14.5% alc.) Vin du Lac of Chelan $35 2005 Barrel Select Merlot, Columbia Valley Our 2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year is starting its reign off right by crafting one of the top Merlots in our competition. Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker turned to his favorite vineyards (Upland on Snipes Mountain, Klingele in the Yakima Valley and his estate vineyard in Chelan) for this superb wine. Its aromas are loaded with red fruit, tar and spicy oak, followed by layered flavors of red and blue fruit, all expertly balanced and luscious through the lengthy finish. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.) L’Ecole No. 41 $36 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Marty Clubb also is a co-owner of famed Seven Hills Vineyard, and this bold Merlot comes from there. The vineyard is on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, one of the most treas-

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ured plantings in the region. This opens with aromas of dark fruit, black olives and ample oak, followed by a bold entry with flavors of black cherries, black olives and a hint of licorice. It’s a young wine that is showing a fair bit of oak at the moment, though this should mellow with another year of bottle time. (1,326 cases, 14.5% alc.) Zerba Cellars $30 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley Doug Nierman honed his skills at Long Shadows and Pepper Bridge before taking over head winemaking duties at this fellow Walla Walla Valley producer. And he has Zerba flying high with one superb release after another. This luscious red opens with exotic aromas of plums, black cherries, wild berries and pencil shavings, followed by rich flavors of red and black fruit and even a hint of cranapples, all backed with well-balanced tannins through the lengthy finish. (506 cases, 14.4% alc.) Best Buy! 14 Hands $12 2007 Merlot, Washington The biggest bargain of our top wines is this Ste. Michelle Wine Estates label that most often is found on restaurant wine lists. Keith Kenison, who oversees the white wine program for giant Columbia Crest, heads the

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14 Hands efforts, and he has a wine to be proud of here. It opens with elegant aromas of red cherries, cranberries, sweet herbs and a whisper of smoke, followed by layered flavors of olives, black plums, strawberry jam and luscious chocolate. Startling acidity and delicate tannins provide drinknow structure. Buy this by the case and make it your house wine. (100,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

ranks amid the best. This opens with aromas of lingonberries, black currants, black cherries and baked brie, followed by intense flavors of boysenberries and white strawberries. It’s a refreshing wine with moderate tannins and plenty of food-pairing possibilities. (99 cases, 12% alc.)

Silkscarf Winery $42 CDN 2006 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley This young winery in Summerland, B.C., relies on its 10-acre vineyard to craft nearly a dozen selections. It used estate grapes for this reserve-level Merlot, which opens with aromas of Baker’s chocolate, mocha and deep black cherries. On the palate, this opens with lively flavors of cranberries and fresh raspberries with hints of black cherries and anise. The tannins are ample yet expertly held in check as they beautifully back all the fruit. (65 cases, 13% alc.)

Sineann $36 2008 Champoux Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley Our 2010 Oregon Winery of the Year has a remarkable way of acquiring some of the Northwest’s greatest grapes. In this case, owner/winemaker Peter Rosback crafted a Merlot from what is arguably Washington’s finest vineyard: Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills. The result is a wine whose aromas reminded us of cranberry ice cream as well as notes of sweet herbs and black currants. On the palate are rich flavors of Van cherries and blackberries. This wine exemplifies just how smooth and luscious a Washington Merlot can be. (168 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Westport Winery $29 2008 Boom Runner Reserve Merlot, Washington Since this coastal winery hit our radar last year, its wines have continued to impress us. One of its Cabs earned our top rating last fall, and now its Reserve Merlot

Zerba Cellars $45 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Doug Nierman blended grapes from five vineyards: two in the Yakima Valley and three in the Walla Walla Valley. The result is a complex and robust wine with aromas of spicy berries,

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black cherries, black raspberries and chocolate, followed by bold flavors of black tea, leather, olives, plums and cherries. Smooth tannins back this rich, fruit-driven wine. (379 cases, 14.83% alc.)

EXCELLENT Best Buy! Dusted Valley Vintners $15 2007 Boomtown Merlot, Columbia Valley We’ve come to expect this Walla Walla Valley winery’s products to bubble up in our blind judgings, and it’s gratifying to see Dusted Valley’s value label do so well. This includes a bit of Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon blended in for complexity. This offers aromas of cherries, leather, red plums and chocolate, followed by flavors of of black cherries, dark chocolate and blackberries. Supple tannins provide just the right amount of structure. (1,500 cases, 14.4% alc.) Barnard Griffin Winery $30 2007 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin migrated north from California more than three decades ago and has established himself as one of the state’s greatest

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merlot winemakers. This is one of three Merlots he crafts, and it is a beauty. It opens with aromas of cranberries, red cherries and Graham crackers, followed by flavors of bright red fruit backed with racy acidity and a luscious mouth feel. This is still a very young wine and is only going to improve for the next three or four years. (277 cases, 14.2% alc.) Columbia Crest $35 2006 Block 08 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ray Einberger worked at top wineries in Bordeaux and California before coming north in the early ’90s to work for Columbia Crest. He is fascinated with Merlot because it can often be a bigger wine than Cabernet Sauvignon. This block-designated reserve-level wine is among his favorites at the Paterson, Wash., winery. It opens with aromas of sweet herbs, ripe raspberries and cranberries, followed by flavors of black tea, ripe cherries and herbal undertones. The beautiful acidity and moderate tannins carry the fruit to a long, chocolaty finish. (300 cases, 14.2% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $18 2007 Indian Wells Merlot, Columbia Valley This wine gets its name from the Indian Wells Vineyard on the western Wahluke Slope but also uses grapes from elsewhere on this warm benchland. Winemaker Bob Bertheau also blended in Syrah and a bit of Malbec to provide roundness and complexity. The resulting wine provides concentrated aromas of Bing cherries, cedar, black currants and vanilla, followed by luscious flavors of pomegranates, chocolate, black olives, black cherries and black tea. It has plenty of structure for pairing with marbled beef or rich pasta dishes. (23,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! Covey Run Winery $9 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley In the past two decades, this winery has developed into one of the most consistent value brands in the Pacific Northwest. It’s now owned by Ascentia Wine Estates in California, and Kate Michaud oversees winemaking. This Merlot opens with beautiful aromas of pomegranates, cherries and hints of oak, followed by racy flavors of cranberries, raspberry jam, tea and black olive. It is a classic Washington Merlot that should pair well with everything from flank steak to rich pasta dishes. (17,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Dunham Cellars $75 2006 Lewis Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley Undoubtedly, Lewis Vineyard is winemaker Eric Dunham’s favorite site. These vines have been the backbone of Dunham’s wines for more than a decade. Because of Dunham’s pioneering winemaking with the site, many wineries now craft Lewis Vineyard-designated wines. This Merlot reveals aromas of sweet herbs, vanilla and oak integrated with ripe berries, followed by well-integrated flavors of bold dark fruit and delicious herbal undertones. (462 cases, 13.8% alc.) Kyra Wines $16 2007 Merlot, Wahluke Slope Owner/winemaker Kyra Baerlocher used grapes from her

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estate Pheasant Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for this stylish wine. It’s a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. On the aromas, it provides notes of dark blackberries, blueberries and spices, followed by bold flavors of ripe dark fruit and hints of maple syrup. Lean tannins provide youthful approachability, and bright acidity lends this wine to all kinds of food-pairing potential. (283 cases, 14.2% alc.) Tsillan Cellars $28 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Bob Jankelson has created a world-class destination winery on the south shore of Lake Chelan in north-central Washington, and his wines have backed up the beautiful setting, facility and vineyards. This Merlot is a delicious example of what Washington Merlot represents, with aromas of red and black cherries mingling with mint and hints of oak. On the palate, this opens with elegant flavors of Rainier cherries, vanilla and minerality, all backed with beautifully balanced acidity and tannin. (1,283 cases, 14.4% alc.) Tertulia Cellars $32 2007 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This small producer in the Walla Walla Valley has the knack of obtaining fruit from some top vineyards. This is no exception, as Pepper Bridge grapes are among the most-sought-after in the valley. This Merlot opens with aromas of cranberries, pomegranates and black cherries, followed by pronounced flavors of plums, cherries and sweet herbs. It’s a bold wine up front, though the ripe fruit catches up with the rich tannins through the midpalate and lengthy finish. (170 cases, 14.5% alc.) Watermill Winery $24 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Our 2010 Oregon Winery to Watch is in the Walla Walla Valley town of Milton-Freewater, and winemaker Rich Funk (Saviah Cellars) is quickly turning Watermill into one of the bright young stars in the valley. This wine’s pedigree includes grapes from Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills West and McClellan. They meld into a Merlot with aromas of delicious red cherries, pomegranates and black tea, followed by racy flavors that balance ripe red fruit, bright acidity and lush tannins. A nice sweetness from oak aging adds just that much more complexity. (114 cases, 14.6% alc.) Novelty Hill $22 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Mike Januik blended grapes from estate Stillwater Creek Vineyard with Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills) and Klipsun (Red Mountain) to craft this Merlot. It includes a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) for complexity. The result is a wine that opens with aromas of dense black cherries, rosemary, rose hips, blueberries and slate, followed by flavors of black currants, juicy black cherries and hints of chocolate. It’s all backed with brilliant structure. (2,151 cases, 14.4% alc.) San Juan Vineyards $23 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley This winery near Friday Harbor, Wash., crosses the Cascades to bring home grapes from Kestrel

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View Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It already has won four gold medals. It reveals aromas of light cherries, inviting berries and light oak, followed by bright flavors of cherries, cranberries and ripe red plums. Its bold tannins offer plenty of structure to back up all the fruit. Pair with a hearty Italian dish or grilled ribeye. (351 cases, 14.3% alc.) Best Buy! Columbia Crest $11 2007 Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley More Merlot comes out of this Paterson, Wash., winery than anywhere else in America, so winemaker Ray Einberger has a great handle on how to craft delicious wines in large quantities. The grapes for this wine come primarily from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope. On the aromas are notes of vanilla extract, fruit leather, Bing cherries and even Oreo cookies, followed by flavors of raspberries and cranberries. It’s a bright wine with a decent amount of grip in the midpalate. It’s a superb wine for everyday consumption. (200,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Soléna Cellars $25 2006 Wooldridge Creek Vineyard Merlot, Applegate Valley Deep in Southern Oregon, this vineyard flies under the radar of most, but owner/winemaker Laurent Montalieu’s ability to sniff out top grapes is uncanny. This wine unveils aromas of pomegranates and red cherries, followed by a fruitdriven wine that shows off ripe Rainier cherries and raspberries. Its well-integrated tannins beautifully back up all the fruit. (71 cases, 14.5% alc.) Fidelitas Wines $25 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley When you’ve made wine in Washington as long as Charlie Hoppes, you get to know just about every row of vines. The Ste. Michelle alum is nearly a decade into owning Fidelitas, and he is honing his focus on Bordeaux varieties. This wine makes use of grapes from six vineyards, with the majority coming from Conner Lee, Stillwater Creek and Weinbau. It opens with aromas of Chukar cherries, flint and a hint of coffee, followed by rich, creamy, juicy flavors of marionberries, cherries and chocolate. (1,003 cases, 14.4% alc.) Mercer Estates $24 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker David Forsyth crafted this wine from 83% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. He used grapes from Desert Wind Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and McKinley Springs Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The resulting wine opens with concentrated aromas of Bing cherries, black cherries and understated oak, followed by bright, lush flavors of red cherries and raspberries. The oak is well-integrated and the acidity provides ample structure. (3,395 cases, 14.5% alc.) Vin du Lac of Chelan $35 2006 Barrel Select Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker used grapes from three of his favorite vineyards: Stillwater Creek, Snipes Canyon and his estate vineyard on a bluff above Lake Chelan. This opens with aromas of sweet oak, spicy

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FOOD PAIRING WITH MERLOT

Merlot is a versatile food wine. Here are a few ideas for dishes to serve with Merlot: iϧ Pasta in a rich red sauce or with sausage. iϧ Garlic or meat lovers pizza. iϧ Grilled meats. The more tannic the wine, the fattier the cut of beef. iϧ Roasted duck. iϧ Grilled portabello mushrooms. iϧ Pork chops topped with caramelized onions. iϧ Aged gouda. iϧ Chicken Parmesan.

blueberries, cherries and vanilla, followed by lush flavors of raspberries, blackberries, licorice and chocolate. Firm tannins back up all the ripe, delicious fruit. (266 cases, 14.6% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $25 CDN 2007 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Hagen Kruger is best known for his stunning white wines, but he is rounding out his reputation with red wines like this. In years when the quality of the wines warrants it, Kruger crafts a reserve wine from his 10 best barrels. This example opens with aromas of chocolate, plums and blackberries, followed by dark, ripe, rich flavors of darkertoned fruit with underlying herbal notes. (200 cases, 14.9% alc.) Woodward Canyon $39 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Rick Small launched this Lowden, Wash., winery in 1981 and has become world renowned for his red wines. He used fruit from four vineyards, with the majority coming from Weinbau on the Wahluke Slope. He blended in 14% Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and flavor. It opens with aromas of Black Forest cake, portabello mushrooms and black cherries, followed by luscious red and black cherries backed by well-managed tannins and lovely texture. (941 cases, 15% alc.) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $24 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Gravity Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Jarrod Boyle owns and operates Destiny Ridge, a 243-acre vineyard overlooking the Columbia River in the Horse Heaven Hills. He pulls double duty as winemaker for his Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser and Woodinville. This includes 16% Malbec and small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carménère. It reveals aromas and flavors of ripe cherries, cedar and hints of

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chocolate with a luscious mouth feel and nice breadth. (388 cases, 14.2% alc.) Caterina Winery $18 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley This longtime Spokane winery (it opened in 1993) is in the historic Broadview Dairy building. Don Townshend of Townshend Cellar has now purchased the winery. This wine opens with cheerful aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and hints of leather, followed by bright flavors of red and black cherries, all backed with velvety tannins and a rich, luscious finish. (500 cases, 13.6% alc.) Columbia Crest $22 2006 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ray Einberger blended 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc into this limited-release wine. It reveals complex aromas of cinnamon, chocolate and cherries, followed by flavors of licorice, black cherries, a hint of coffee and chocolaty tannins. It’s a fun, delicious wine. (3,000 cases, 14.2% alc.) Best Buy! Covey Run Winery $12 2005 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley This has to be one of the most affordable reserve-level wines in the Pacific Northwest. Leave it to Covey Run, which has been crafting superb wines since 1982. Kate Michaud heads up winemaking for this large operation. This wine provides aromas of red cherries and raspberries, followed by luscious dark fruit flavors, bright acidity and chocolaty tannins. It’s a well-structured wine built to pair with hearty dishes and priced for everyday enjoyment. (5,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Snoqualmie’s wines since 1991. She’s also making some of the consistently best wines in Washington because she prefers elegance and balance over power and richness. Because of this, Snoqualmie’s wines are even better values than the price tag would indicate. This affordable red opens with aromas of cherries, spicy chocolate and black licorice, followed by flavors of dark chocolate, Mexican cocoa, plums, olives and black cherries. (18,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Stag’s Hollow Winery & Vineyard $25 2007 SHV Merlot, Okanagan Valley Located on the Corkscrew Trail near Okanagan Falls, B.C., this longtime winery often flies under the radar because it tends to be low key. But do not underestimate the wines crafted by Dwight Sick. This Merlot includes a small amount (5%) of Cabernet Sauvignon; in fact the two grapes are harvested at the same time and co-fermented. The result is a wine with finesse. It provides aromas of pomegranates, spices and cherries, followed by flavors of cranberries and red currants. It’s a balanced wine with smooth tannins and a lengthy finish. (238 cases, 14.2% alc.) Vin du Lac of Chelan $35 2007 Barrel Select Merlot, Columbia Valley The youngest of owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker’s three Merlot entries in this judging is a bold statement. It opens with aromas of chocolate and ripe red plums, followed by concentrated flavors of black cherries, blackberries and dark chocolate. It’s a mouth-filling wine that would pair especially well with a flat-iron steak. (375 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Desert Wind Winery $18 2006 Desert Wind Vineyard Merlot, Wahluke Slope The Fries family has constructed a showpiece winery overlooking the Yakima River in Prosser, Wash., complete with a gorgeous tasting room, cooking facilities and a resort-style inn. The grapes for this Merlot come from estate fruit on the highly regarded Desert Wind Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. The result is a wine with aromas of red currants and cherries, followed by flavors of red plums, red cherries, raspberry jam and chocolate. It’s a bright, luscious wine. (3,129 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Volcano Vineyards $24 2006 Fortmiller Vineyard Merlot, Rogue Valley Liz and Scott Ratcliff run their winery and tasting lounge in Bend, Ore., and bring in grapes from the warm Rogue Valley to the southwest. This Merlot comes from Fortmiller, a vineyard farmed by Don and Traute Moore, considered by many to be the finest growers in the Rogue. The wine opens with aromas of cranberries, Chelan cherries, red currants and sweet herbs, followed by pleasing flavors of ripe red plums, cherries and chocolate on the finish. It’s a lush wine with delicious length. (357 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery $30 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley The Ferreira family is from Portugal and farms 20 acres of vineyards on the venerable Black Sage Bench near the Okanagan Valley town of Oliver, B.C. They planted the vineyard in 1999 after farming the land as orchards for more than two decades. This Merlot provides aromas of black cherries, leather, kitchen spices and nicely understated oak, followed by flavors of rich dark fruit, dark chocolate and spices, all backed with elegant fine-grained tannins. It’s a beautifully crafted wine. (475 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Basel Cellars $28 2006 Pheasant Run Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Justin Basel didn’t have to travel far from his gorgeous wine facility south of Walla Walla for this wine. It opens with fascinating aromas that reminded us of orange pound cake, along with kitchen spices, followed by elegant flavors of focused red and black fruit, all backed with supple tannins. (715 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Best Buy! Snoqualmie Vineyards $10 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley Joy Andersen is the longest-tenured winemaker in Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, having overseen

Best Buy! Duck Pond Cellars $12 2005 Desert Wind Vineyard Merlot, Wahluke Slope The Fries family operates two large wineries, Duck Pond in Dundee, Ore., and Desert Wind in Prosser, Wash. For some wines, the grapes cross the Columbia River, as is the case with what essentially is an

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merlot estate vineyard. This wine opens with aromas of red cherry candy, mint and orange oil, followed by flavors of ripe Van cherries, cranberries and hints of chocolate. It’s a bright wine with soft tannins, making this an approachable, food-worthy red. (12,761 cases, 14.5% alc.) Griffin Creek $30 2007 Merlot, Rogue Valley For more than a decade, this second label for Willamette Valley Vineyards has focused on Southern Oregon grapes, specifically Quail Run Vineyard in the Rogue Valley. It is a classic Merlot with aromas of cranberries, Rainier cherries and pomegranates, followed by rugged flavors of red cherries and ripe plums. The fairly bold tannins meld with the rich fruit, giving this balance and also making it a strong candidate for serving with grilled meats. (325 cases, 14.5% alc.) Kalamar Winery $30 2004 Merlot, Yakima Valley Mark Kalamar has been making statements with superb Merlots since opening this winery in 1999 near Puyallup. The grapes for this wine come from highly regarded Snipes Canyon Vineyard near Prosser, Wash. The result is a wine with aromas of a freshly baked cherry pie and a whisper of alder smoke, followed by flavors of black cherries and just a touch of chocolate. It’s a medium-bodied wine that could pair well with cedar-plank salmon or leaner cuts of beef. (236 cases, 14.2% alc.) Kiona Vineyards Winery $30 2002 Reserve Merlot, Red Mountain One of the oldest wines in our judging, this reserve-level Merlot from estate grapes is aging elegantly. It reveals aromas of dark plums, red cherries, red licorice and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of black cherries, hints of chocolate and inviting sweet oak. This could age nicely for another half-decade, though it would seem to be peaking now. (700 cases, 13.5% alc.) Le Vieux Pin $65 CDN 2007 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley Our 2008 British Columbia Winery to Watch is cropping its grapes to tiny levels — at times just a ton per acre — to gain every bit of concentration it can out of its fruit. In this case, the wine reveals aromas of tar, chocolate, red raspberries and even beets, followed by plush flavors of blueberries and pie cherries. Gripping tannins back all the fruit, leading us to believe it could age nicely for another few years or pair nicely in the near term with a sirloin steak. (552 cases, 14.8% alc.) Tamarack Cellars $28 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley When Ron Coleman launched this Walla Walla airport winery in 1997, his early focus was Merlot. He’s branched out into many different varieties and styles, but his Merlot remains one of his finest efforts year after year. This wine has 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc blended in, using grapes from seven vineyards in five appellations. The result is a complex wine with aromas of chocolate, cherries and dusty herbs, followed by flavors of chocolate, fresh-brewed espresso, mint and

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ripe red cherries. (1,400 cases, 14.2% alc.) Westport Winery $23 2008 Mermaid’s Merlot, Washington This coastal winery in Grays Harbor County seems to enjoy the creative side of naming its wines almost as much as making them. This is a young, flavorful wine loaded with aromas of boysenberries, coffee, chocolate and cherries, followed by bold flavors of ripe berries and bright cherries. It’s a big wine, yet the tannins are so tightly integrated, they come off as harmonious. (124 cases, 12% alc.) Barnard Griffin Winery $17 2007 Merlot, Washington For this Merlot, winemaker Rob Griffin turned to three of his favorite vineyards: Wahluke Slope, Caroway and Sagemoor. The resulting wine reveals complex aromas of cherries and slate, followed by flavors of black cherries, black pepper and rich chocolate. It’s a bright, juicy wine that is only going to get better for the next three years. (3,600 cases, 13.8% alc.) Cadaretta $35 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley French-born and -trained winemaker Virginie Bourgue has been producing wines in the Walla Walla Valley for a number of years and is taking this relatively young operation to new heights in a hurry. The grapes come from three vineyards: Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills, Spring Creek in the Yakima Valley and Pepper Bridge in the Walla Walla Valley. The wine reveals aromas of intriguing sandalwood as well as cherries and coffee beans, followed by flavors of ripe wild strawberries, black cherries and chocolaty tannins. (112 cases, 14.1% alc.) E.B. Foote Winery $18 2005 Merlot, Wahluke Slope Owner/winemaker Sherrill Miller crafts her wines in Burien near Sea-Tac Airport. The grapes for this Merlot come from Arianses and Milbrandt vineyards on the warm Wahluke Slope, and Miller added just a touch (3%) of Cabernet Franc. It opens with intriguing aromas of strawberries, rose petals, watermelon candy and just a touch of lime zest. The wine eases onto the palate with flavors of ripe cherries and strawberries with acidity rather than tannin as the structural focus. It’s a beautifully made and affordable wine. (465 cases, 14.8% alc.) Magnificent Wine Co. $22 2007 Original Merlot, Columbia Valley Walla Walla’s Charles Smith is a marketing genius who has taken his Magnificent Wine concept to stunning success. The wines are sold through Precept Brands in Seattle, meaning they are broadly distributed. This luscious red shows off aromas of chocolate and black cherries, followed by lush, lusty flavors loaded with chocolate and rich fruit. It’s a versatile wine that works if you just want to sip a glass or pair with a hearty meal. (2,000 cases, 13.7% alc.) Nk’Mip Cellars $20 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley This operation just over the border from the United States is the first aboriginal-owned winery in North America. The Osoyoos Band has created an amazing destination that includes the winery, a restaurant and guest houses. The

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wines, crafted by Randy Picton, are consistently high in quality, and this mainstream Merlot is no exception. It opens with aromas of cherries, spices and smoke, followed by ripe, bold flavors of raspberries, cherries and plums. Smooth tannins make this an approachable wine in its youth. (3,879 cases, 14.5% alc.) Pend d’Oreille Winery $21 2005 Merlot, Washington Owner/winemaker Steve Meyer is in his 15th year crafting great wines in Idaho’s Panhandle. He relies primarily on Washington grapes, and this wine uses fruit from the Columbia and Walla Walla valleys and Horse Heaven Hills. It shows off aromas of spicy black fruit, leather and oak, followed by rich, lush flavors of plums and cherries backed with well-integrated tannins. (425 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! Red Diamond $7 2007 Merlot, Washington This label made by Columbia Crest once resided primarily on restaurant wine lists but now is a mainstream brand. Juan Muñoz-Oca, red winemaker for Columbia Crest, oversees the Red Diamond label, and this bottling is the largest-production wine of our judging — and of Northwest Merlots — with more than a quarter-million cases. It’s a delicious everyday wine with lovely aromas of black cherries, ripe plums and chocolate, followed by balanced flavors of ripe, round, lush fruit. It’s a smooth and luscious red from start to finish. (270,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Wild Goose Vineyards $20 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Our 2009 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year in Okanagan Falls has crafted a delicious Merlot with aromas of cedar, chocolate, oregano, mint and cherry, followed by clean flavors of red fruit with rich balanced tannins and bright acidity. The judges were able to easily identify this for its fascinating coolclimate characteristics. (400 cases, 14.9% alc.) Best Buy! Columbia Crest $15 2007 H3 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills The Northwest’s largest winery is in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills, an appellation with thousands of acres of wine grapes. That is the inspiration for this fairly new label for Columbia Crest. This wine offers aromas of cinnamon, mint, dark chocolate and raspberries, followed by delicious flavors of raspberries and black cherries backed with mild oak. (30,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Gifford Hirlinger $22 2006 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley The Berghan family planted its estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley in 2001, followed by launching this winery, which takes its name from ancestors who preceded them to the valley on wagon trains some 150 years ago. This rich, ripe red opens with alluring aromas of dark fruit, coffee, black licorice and chocolate, followed by flavors of red cherries, red plums, raspberries, blackberries and vanilla with a hint of

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coconut on the finish. (213 cases, 14.8% alc.) Hogue Cellars $30 2006 Reserve Merlot, Wahluke Slope Co Dinn is the director of winemaking for this Yakima Valley giant, which began operation in the early 1980s. He headed to the warm Wahluke Slope for the grapes he used for this reserve-level Merlot. It opens with aromas of leather, cedar and chocolate, followed by flavors of dark cherries, red plums and raspberry jam. It is a big wine with a flavorful mouth feel and bold structure. (2,094 cases, 15.4% alc.) Spring Valley Vineyard $45 2007 Mule Skinner Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley All wines from this winery in the eastern Walla Walla Valley are named to honor members of the Corkrum family who worked this land. The Mule Skinner is a tribute to Frederick Corkrum, who cared for the mules used to farm the land prior to the arrival of tractors. The wine opens with classic aromas of pomegranates, cranberries, cherries and spices, followed by rich flavors of ripe cherries, chocolate and hints of oak. It’s a bold wine with lively tannins and should age well for another half-decade. (195 cases, 15.1% alc.) Terra Blanca Winery & Vineyard $35 2003 Reserve Estate Merlot, Red Mountain Owner/winemaker Keith Pilgrim has created a gorgeous winery in a setting that is unparalleled in the Columbia Valley. His Italian-influenced building sits atop Red Mountain and provides commanding views of the Yakima Valley. This wine is from a warm vintage and reveals aromas of cherries, raspberries, oak and spices, followed by ripe, smooth flavors of red and black fruits backed with smooth tannins for a memorable finish. (491 cases, 13.5% alc.) Zimri Cellars $30 2008 Merlot, Umpqua Valley Jason Bull first gained our attention when he was winemaker of Laurel Ridge Winery in the northern Willamette Valley, then when he turned around the program at David Hill Winery. This is his own label, which he crafts at David Hill. The grapes for this Merlot come from Wild Rose Vineyard in Southern Oregon, and this wine provides aromas of French vanilla, blackberry jam and red currants, followed by accessible flavors of Bing cherries and red plums. It’s a plush, gentle, tasty wine. (140 cases, 13.5% alc.) Heaven’s Cave Cellars $32 2007 Destination Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Owner Hope Moore created this winery in Prosser, Wash., for the express purpose of giving away the proceeds to Make the Dash Count, a foundation that helps atrisk youth. The grapes come from Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. It offers aromas of bright cherries, watermelon and cedar, followed by flavors of ripe strawberries and dark berries. (100 cases, 14.2% alc.) Liberty Lake Wine Cellars $22 2006 Merlot, Red Mountain This tiny (500case) winery near Spokane that brings in grapes from Red Mountain and the Walla

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Walla Valley. This wine, aged for two years in American oak, reveals aromas of black cherries, boysenberries and tarragon. The palate shows off flavors of black cherries, raspberries and cherries with sturdy tannins and a pretty mouth feel. (72 cases, 13.4% alc.) Reustle - Prayer Rock Vineyards $26 2007 Maranatha Bloc Merlot, Umpqua Valley Our 2009 Oregon Winery to Watch continues to impress us with each new release. This Merlot from its estate vineyard in Southern Oregon comes from a steep slope that offers low yields. The result is a concentrated and focused wine that offers aromas of cherries, spices and oak and flavors of rich cherries and raspberries. The acidity and tannins are beautifully balanced with the fruit for a delicious and stylish wine. (79 cases, 13.3% alc.) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $28 CDN 2007 Oldfield Series Merlot, Okanagan Valley California escapee Sandra Oldfield joined this dynamic Oliver, B.C., winery in its infancy, joining husband Kenn here in 1995. A big part of the focus has been Merlot, and this tier contains Oldfield’s signature wines. This wine, set for release in October, is still developing in the bottle, though it’s showing tremendous potential. It opens with aromas of cedar, pie cherries and Baker’s chocolate, followed by beautiful flavors of blackberries, black cherries and blueberries. Assertive early tannins give way to a plush midpalate and chocolate overtones on the finish. (1,543 cases, 15% alc.) Waterbrook Winery $22 2007 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley This longtime Walla Walla Valley winery, now owned by Precept Brands, has a beautiful new facility on the highway heading into town. This Merlot uses grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards scattered throughout the Columbia Valley. The result is a complex wine with aromas of vanilla, cherry and oak, followed by smooth, mellow flavors of cranberries, cherries and raspberries. It’s beautifully balanced and should only get better with a few years in the cellar. (3,500 cases, 14.5% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $28 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley Considered by many the crown jewel of Ste. Michelle’s vineyards, this ever-expanding operation north of the Yakima Valley was selected by the legendary Walter Clore for Ste. Michelle in the early 1970s. This vineyard-designated Merlot opens with light aromas of oak, chocolate and cherries, followed by ripe flavors of juicy cherries, black currants and chocolate. Tannins are sturdy without being aggressive, expertly backing up all the plush fruit. (1,700 cases, 14.6% alc.) Best Buy! Hogue Cellars $10 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley Hogue was one of the first large-production wineries in North America to begin large-scale use of screwcaps. Five years into the project, the wines continue to shine. This delicious and nicely priced Merlot opens with aromas of cranberries, cherries and red plums, followed

by smooth flavors of red-toned fruit backed with supple tannins. It’s built — and priced — for everyday enjoyment. (31,606 cases, 13.9% alc.) Silkscarf Winery $28 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley From the central Okanagan Valley town of Summerland comes this wine using estate grapes. It reveals aromas of strawberries, cinnamon, cherries and dried herbs, followed by ripe red fruit and mild tannins. Bright acidity makes this a sturdy wine while allowing the fruit to shine, and a kiss of oak offers another layer of complexity. (150 cases, 13.5% alc.) Zerba Cellars $40 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley This past Oregon Winery to Watch used grapes from Willard Vineyard in the Yakima Valley and Winesap and Kelly vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley to craft this fruit-driven wine. It opens with aromas of blueberries and sweet herbs, followed by ripe flavors of black cherries, huckleberries and chocolate. Rich tannins provide plenty of structure. (754 cases, 14.2% alc.) Northstar Winery $40 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley David “Merf ” Merfeld is winemaker for this Walla Walla winery dedicated to making great Merlot. This wine uses grapes from at least 14 vineyards and includes 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It reveals aromas of blackberries, boysenberries, tobacco leaf and slate, followed by mouth-filling flavors of red and black fruits. It’s sturdy but not over the top, and the oak is expertly handled. (10,000 cases, 14.7% alc.)

RECOMMENDED E.B. Foote Winery $18 2006 Merlot, Wahluke Slope This Burien, Wash., winery headed to one of the warmest areas of the state for this wine’s grapes. It reveals aromas of blueberries, black currants and chocolate, followed by flavors of blackberries, raspberries and bittersweet chocolate. (164 cases, 13.9% alc.) Columbia Winery $16 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Kerry Norton crafted a luscious and affordable Merlot that offers aromas of dark fruit and chocolate, as well as rich blackberries and black cherries. Rich tannins provide breadth and depth. (12,000 cases, 14.1% alc.) Olsen Estates $29 2007 Estate Merlot, Yakima Valley This upand-coming Prosser, Wash., winery has been farming in the Yakima Valley for more than a century and opened its winery at the Vintners Village in the past three years. This Merlot shows off aromas and flavors of red plums, ripe cherries and elegant oak. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.) Olsen Hills $19 2007 Estate Merlot, Yakima Valley Ste. Michelle alum Kyle Johnson crafts the wine for this Prosser, Wash., producer. This Merlot provides aromas and flavors of dark-toned

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merlot berries, toffee, kitchen spices and mild oak. (400 cases, 14.5% alc.) Saviah Cellars $18 2007 The Jack, Columbia Valley This wine from Walla Walla, Wash., is mostly Merlot (86%) with a bit of Cab, Cab Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot blended in. It provides aromas and flavors of cranberries, black olives, plums and blackberries. (4,777 cases, 14.1% alc.) Cave B Estate Winery $22 2005 Cave B Vineyards Merlot, Columbia Valley The reincarnation of Champs de Brionne near the tastefully named town of George, Wash., uses its estate fruit from vineyards overlooking the Columbia River. This Merlot offers aromas and flavors of plums, black olives and black licorice with an intriguing line of minerality throughout. (475 cases, 14% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $24 2006 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Ste. Michelle’s vineyard in the southern Horse Heaven Hills is now more than 15 years old and is one of the winery’s prime sources of grapes. This Merlot offers aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberries, black cherries, chocolate and mint. It’s a nicely complex wine. (11,500 cases, 14.7% alc.) David Hill Vineyards & Winery $30 2007 Reserve Merlot, Rogue Valley This winery near Forest Grove, Ore., west of Portland reaches deep into Southern Oregon for the grapes in this wine. The result reveals aromas and flavors of spicy red plums, berries and chocolate. (302 cases, 14.6% alc.) Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards $20 2007 Shameless Hussy Merlot, Wahluke Slope Nobody will accuse Judy and Don Phelps of not having a sense of humor. Judy, the winemaker in this family collaboration on the north shore of Lake Chelan, has crafted a Merlot with aromas of of black cherries and flavors of pomegranates, raspberries and orange oil. (175 cases, 13.8% alc.) Kestrel Vintners $22 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley Winemaker Flint Nelson honed his craft while working with Brian Carter at Apex Cellars and has headed up this Prosser, Wash., winery for several years. This Merlot shows off aromas and flavors of cranberries, raspberries, cherries and a hint of oak. (1,908 cases, 13.8% alc.) Latah Creek Wine Cellars $16 2008 Pheasant Vineyards Merlot, Wahluke Slope Owner/winemaker Mike Conway started this Spokane winery nearly 30 years ago and always managed to balance quality and value. This Merlot from a warm site offers aromas of mature oak, chocolate and cherries, followed by flavors of strawberries and blackberries. (842 cases, 12.5% alc.) Page Cellars $25 2007 The Norseman, Red Mountain This Woodinville, Wash., winery uses grapes from warm Red Mountain then aged it in 100% French oak to craft a wine with aromas of

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BY THE NUMBERS MERLOT JUDGING

For this judging, we blind-tasted 155 Merlots from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. iϧ Of the 155 wines judged, 15 (9.6%) earned an “Outstanding” rating; 61 (39.3%) received an “Excellent” rating; 57 (36.7%) received a “Recommended” rating; and 22 (14.2%) were not rated. iϧ The following appellations were represented: Applegate Valley, British Columbia, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Idaho, Okanagan Valley, Rattlesnake Hills, Red Mountain, Rogue Valley, Snake River Valley, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley, Wahluke Slope, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, Willamette Valley and Yakima Valley. iϧ The tasting represented 1,045,407 cases of Merlot. Four wines, all part of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, added up to 650,000 cases. iϧ The average price was $26.18. The most expensive wine in the judging was $85. The least expensive was $7. iϧ The average reported alcohol was 14.1%.

blueberries and pomegranates and flavors of black cherries and mint chocolate. (260 cases, 14.4% alc.) 8th Generation Vineyard $22 CDN 2008 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Bernd Shales’ family began making wine in 1757, and he emigrated to British Columbia in 2003 then launched this winery in 2007. This wine from the southern Okanagan Valley provides aromas and flavors of red cherries with a plush midpalate and beautiful length. (335 cases, 14.5% alc.) Barnard Griffin Winery $35 2006 Ciel du Cheval Merlot, Red Mountain Winemaker Rob Griffin headed just down the road to Red Mountain and one of Washington’s finest vineyards for this Merlot, which offers aromas and flavors of black cherries and plums backed with rich and rewarding tannins. (204 cases, 14.4% alc.) Henry Estate $20 2007 Merlot, Umpqua Valley This Southern Oregon pioneer in winemaking and viticulture crafts a wide variety of wines, and this Merlot offers aromas and flavors of bright cherries, cranberries and pomegranates, all backed with bright, food-friendly acidity. (400 cases, 13.5% alc.) Best Buy! Snake River Winery $14 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Merlot, Idaho Scott DeSeelhorst owns one of the prettiest spots in the Snake River Valley, a bowl-shaped vineyard called Arena Valley. This Merlot from that estate fruit provides aromas and flavors of cedar, cherries and red currants, all backed with solid tannins. (560 cases, 13.9% alc.) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Sandra Oldfield’s main-line Merlot is a delicious and affordable red from southern Okanagan Valley

fruit. It is elegant from the start with aromas and flavors of cranberries and raspberries. Pair this with flank steak. (9,494 cases, 14.3% alc.) Troon Vineyard $24 2006 Merlot, Applegate Valley This longtime Southern Oregon winery uses grapes from its Elain’s Vineyard in the fascinating Applegate Valley. The result is a wine that shows off aromas of raspberries, cherries, blueberries and chocolate. (320 cases, 14.5% alc.) Arcane Cellars $36 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This Willamette Valley winery crossed Oregon to procure these grapes from what is arguably the finest vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of cinnamon, strawberries, pie cherries, alder smoke and something that reminded us of fresh brownies. (225 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! Buried Cane $13 2008 Merlot, Washington This value label associated with the family that owns Cadaretta in Walla Walla is crafting a number of award-winning wines. This affordable Merlot offers aromas and flavors of raspberries and pie cherries with mild tannins. (2,957 cases, 13.3% alc.) Goose Ridge Vineyards $27 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley One of the largest wine grape vineyards in the Northwest at about 1,400 acres, Goose Ridge dominates a hill opposite Red Mountain. This beguiling Merlot provides aromas and flavors of boysenberries, cedar, cherries and black currants. (800 cases, 14.8% alc.) Northstar Winery $50 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This Merlot includes 17% Cab and 5% Cab Franc in the blend of from four vineyards. The result-

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ing wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of cherries, cedar and chocolate. It’s showing a fair bit of oak at this point, but that should quiet down with a bit of time in the cellar. (2,500 cases, 14.4% alc.) Pedestal $50 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley This wine is part of the Long Shadows project and was crafted by Bordeaux’s Michel Rolland. This includes Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Cabernet Franc (7%) and Petit Verdot (3%). The wine shows off aromas and flavors of boysenberries and blackberries with tannins that build through the lengthy finish. (1,877 cases, 14.7% alc.) Pepper Bridge Winery $50 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Made by one of the most important players in the Walla Walla Valley, this wine is still rather youthful and tightly wound. At the moment, it’s revealing aromas and flavors of cinnamon, vanilla and ripe cherries, all backed with assertive tannins and ample acidity. (1,554 cases, 14.1% alc.) Stag’s Hollow Winery and Vineyard $30 CDN 2007 Renaissance Merlot, Okanagan Valley This wine from estate fruit near Okanagan Falls, B.C., reveals aromas and flavors of strawberries, cinnamon and light oak. It’s backed with mild tannins and bright, food-worthy acidity. (125 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best Buy! Whidbey Island Winery $15 2005 Merlot, Yakima Valley Greg Osenbach used grapes from venerable Crawford Vineyard near Prosser for this fruit-driven and elegant Merlot. It opens with aromas of lilacs and cedar, followed by flavors of boysenberries, dark cherries and raspberries. (323 cases, 13.7% alc.) Blasted Church Vineyards $26 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley This wine from three vineyards in the southern Okanagan Valley is loaded with fruit and complexity, showing off aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries, red plums, mint and strawberries. (1,480 cases, 13.9% alc.) Forgeron Cellars $46 2004 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot, Red Mountain Longtime Washington winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla gathered in grapes from one of Washington’s finest vineyards. This wine provides aromas and flavors of cedar, cherries and raspberries. (176 cases, 14.6% alc.)

ries and sweet tannins. (1,300 cases, 13.5% alc.)

one of the valley’s finest producers. (814 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Koenig Vineyards $20 2007 Estate Vineyard Merlot, Snake River Valley Winemaker Greg Koenig is a busy guy, crafting wines for a handful of different labels. This wine from estate fruit reveals aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberries and sweet herbs. (225 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 CDN 2008 Dry Rock Vineyards Merlot, Okanagan Valley Walter Gehringer received a classical German winemaking education yet also branches out into nonGermanic varieties. This wine from estate fruit offers aromas and flavors of lavender, oregano, mint and red currants. (1,600 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Larch Hills Winery $17 CDN 2008 Merlot, Okanagan Valley This winery in the northern reaches of the Okanagan Valley specializes in cool-climate viticulture. This Merlot is smooth with dark fruit and chocolate flavors while showing lusciousness on the midpalate and beautiful depth. (400 cases, 12.8% alc.) Skylite Cellars $26 2005 Skylite Vineyard Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This Merlot is the first estate bottling for this Walla Walla Valley winery, and it’s a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of blackberries, black tea, black olives and black cherries. (127 cases, 14.1% alc.) Springhouse Cellar $24 2008 Poetry in Merlotion, Columbia Valley This wine certainly gets our award for the cleverest name, and it’s a delicious Merlot, as well, providing aromas and flavors of red cherries, raspberries and leather. (133 cases, 13.8% alc.) Wedge Mountain Winery $20 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Charlie McKee used grapes from HRP Vineyard near Benton City, Wash., for this Merlot, which shows off aromas and flavors of black cherries, sweet spices and smooth tannins. (107 cases, 14% alc.) 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards $19 2007 Reserve Merlot, Snake River Valley Greg Koenig crafts the wines for this Eagle, Idaho, winery, which used grapes from Arena Valley Vineyard for this bottling. It shows off aromas and flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and bittersweet chocolate. (444 cases, 13.9% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $31 2005 Ethos Merlot, Columbia Valley Most of the fruit for this reserve-level Merlot came from the Cold Creek and Canoe Ridge estate vineyards. It provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, tar and luscious chocolate. (2,300 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $30 2006 SunRock Vineyard Merlot, Okanagan Valley Jackson-Triggs, one of British Columbia’s largest and finest producers, has crafted this vineyard-designated Merlot that offers aromas and flavors of red currants, peppermint and raspberries. It’s a fairly juicy wine with mild tannins and plenty of acidity. (500 cases, 14.4% alc.)

CE Vineyards $16 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Chelan Estate Winery uses this label for wines with grapes from outside the new Lake Chelan AVA, and this wine contains fruit from Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Columbia Valley’s Frenchman Hills. It is a delicious Merlot with aromas and flavors of chocolate, coffee and ripe dark berries. (265 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards Winery $20 2001 Nice Legs Merlot, Washington This wine from a Red Mountain pioneer was amid the oldest wines in our competition, yet it really isn’t showing its age yet, providing aromas and flavors of lilacs, black cher-

Cougar Crest Estate Winery $35 2006 Estate Grown Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This Merlot from the Cougar Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla unveils aroma and flavors of black cherries, black olives and moderate oak. It’s a delicious wine from

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Grande Ronde Cellars $30 2003 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This Spokane winery often features grapes from this famed Walla Walla vineyard just south of the state border. This particular Merlot, from a warm vintage, reveals aromas and flavors of pie cherries, spicy oak and ripe berries, all backed with moderate tannins. (300 cases, 12% alc.) Hester Creek Estate Winery $26 CDN 2006 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley Just south of the town of Oliver, B.C., this longtime winery is producing some superb red wines. This reserve-level Merlot by winemaker Robert Summers provides aromas and flavors of ripe red cherries, kitchen spices and just a hint of oak. (850 cases, 14.2% alc.) Best Buy! Hyatt Vineyards $10 2006 Merlot, Rattlesnake Hills Longtime Yakima Valley winery Hyatt Vineyards has long specialized in Merlot. This wine shows off aromas and flavors of chocolate milk, cordial cherries and even a hint of tomato paste. It’s a delicious wine to enjoy any night of the week. (2,547 cases, 13.9% alc.) L’Ecole No. 41 $30 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Marty Clubb blended Cabernet Franc (11%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) for this luscious Merlot with aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries and ripe raspberries. (5,609 cases, 14.3% alc.) Nelms Road $20 2007 Merlot, Washington Woodward Canyon Winery has been extremely successful with this second label, which uses wine that doesn’t quite make the cut for Rick Small’s flagship winery in Lowden, Wash. This luscious Merlot provides aromas and flavors of black cherries, ripe raspberries and even rich, ripe blackberries along with mild oak and bright acidity. (2,679 cases, 14.1% alc.) Otis Kenyon Wine $30 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This small producer in Walla Walla has been on fire since it launched a few years ago. This Merlot offers aromas and flavors of red cherries, raspberries, sweet spices and vanilla. (385 cases, 14.9% alc.) Best Buy! Snoqualmie Vineyards $14 2007 Naked Merlot, Columbia Valley Winemaker Joy Andersen uses organically grown grapes for her “Naked” series of wines. This affordable red shows off aromas and flavors of red cherries and pomegranates, all

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backed with plush tannins. (4,200 cases, 13.7% alc.) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards $28 CDN 2006 Oldfield Series Merlot, Okanagan Valley Tinhorn Creek set the bar for British Columbia wineries when it opened in the mid-’90s and continues to lead the way in quality and service. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of root beer, cola and bright cherries. (1,551 cases, 14.6% alc.) Forgeron Cellars $27 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley This downtown Walla Walla winery uses grapes from no fewer than seven vineyards to craft this tasty Merlot. It offers aromas and flavors of vanilla, black cherries and blackberries with modest tannins. (400 cases, 14.2% alc.) Claar Cellars $19 2006 White Bluffs Merlot, Columbia Valley Using estate fruit from its White Bluffs Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River, this winery with a tasting room in the Yakima Valley has crafted a Merlot with aromas and flavors of milk chocolate, Bing cherries and vanilla. (249 cases, 13.8% alc.) Le Vieux Pin $38 CDN 2007 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Before moving to this winery in Oliver, B.C., winemaker James Cambridge produced wines for the eclectic Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna. This Merlot from low-tonnage fruit offers aromas and flavors of red and black cherries backed with plush tannins. (583 cases, 14.4% alc.) Road 13 Vineyards $24 CDN 2007 Merlot, British Columbia This is a blend of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys in British Columbia. It is a big wine with aromas and flavors of leather, oak and black cherries. (1,820 cases, 13.9% alc.) Two Mountain Winery $22 2006 Merlot, Yakima Valley Using grapes from its estate Copeland Vineyard, this Zillah, Wash., winery has crafted a Merlot with aromas and flavors of cranberries, pomegranates, raspberries and spicy oak. (378 cases, 13.7% alc.) Caterina Winery $20 2001 Willard Family Vineyard Merlot, Yakima Valley This was among the oldest entries in this competition, and this longtime Spokane winery (under new ownership) has put together a Merlot that is showing its age in an elegant way with aromas and flavors of dried cherries and strawberries and elegant oak spice. (480 cases, 13.5% alc.) DiStefano Winery $28 2005 Domenica, Columbia Valley Winemaker Hillary Sjolund has crafted a Bordeaux-style blend that focuses on Merlot in an Old World style. It reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, cedar and spice, backed with ample acidity and moderate tannins. (585 cases, 14.9% alc.) Abacela Winery $20 2007 Merlot, Southern Oregon This is a mainstream wine for one of Oregon’s most innovative producers. It opens with aromas of

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Visitors taste Merlot at Northstar Winery in Walla Walla, Wash. red cherries and pomegranates and shows off flavors of ripe Bing cherries and hints of vanilla. (862 cases, 13.4% alc.) Del Rio Vineyards $28 2007 Merlot, Rogue Valley Arguably Southern Oregon’s most famous vineyard has been bottling its own wine for the past few vintages. This offers aromas of

moist earth and ripe cherries followed by flavors of sweet herbs, raspberries and red currants. (151 cases, 14% alc.)ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY

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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY

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WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Red & White Blends Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY Stop in and taste our new releases We look forward to your visit

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225 Vineyard Lane - off Mill Creek Road Open Friday afternoons and Saturdays Or by appointment.

509-525-4724 For more info please visit: www.wallawallavintners.com

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WINE COUNTRY: DESTINATIONS

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snipes mountain

Todd Newhouse lugs some grape bins during harvest.

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F E AT U R E

Snipes Mountain Washington wine’s living history BY ANDY PERDUE

A tractor rolls through rows of grape vines during harvest on Snipes Mountain to pick up bins of freshly picked grapes.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

s Todd Newhouse walks up and down the rows of his family’s vineyard, he senses the history around him. Here, high above the Yakima Valley floor, roams the spirit of the patriarch of the Washington wine industry “I would like William Bridgman to see what the industry has become,” said Newhouse, the third generation of his family to tend to Washington’s most historic vines. The Newhouses own Upland Vineyards on Snipes Mountain, a 1,310-foot upthrust in the middle of the Yakima Valley near the city of Sunnyside. Snipes Mountain became the state’s 10th American Viticultural Area in early 2009. It is Washington’s second-smallest appellation (after Red Mountain, also in the Yakima Valley) at 4,145 total acres and has about 900 acres of vineyards, 700 of which are part of Upland. The remarkable story of Snipes Mountain and William B. Bridgman might well have been lost to time and the dusty soil of the Yakima Valley were it not for The Wine Project, a 1997 book by Ron Irvine that chronicles the history of the Washington wine industry. And without Bridgman, Washington’s winemaking landscape would be remarkably different. “A lot of people refer to Walt Clore as the father of Washington wine,” Newhouse said. “You could take that a step further and say W.B. Bridgman was the grandfather of Washington wine. In fact, it was Bridgman who convinced Walt Clore to plant wine grapes at the WSU extension center, and all of the early cuttings that Walt Clore planted came from Bridgman’s

Snipes Mountain vineyard.” Snipes Mountain is named for Ben Snipes, who built a house and operated a cattle ranch there in the 1850s. In 1917, Bridgman, twiceelected mayor of Sunnyside, planted wine grapes on Snipes Mountain. Some of those original vines, including Thompson Seedless and Muscat of Alexandria, still produce grapes to this day. Adjacent to Snipes Mountain is Harrison Hill, where Bridgman planted table grapes in 1914 and later put in wine grapes. In 1934, soon after national Prohibition was repealed, Bridgman launched Upland Winery on Snipes Mountain (the winery building still exists today, though it’s no longer used). He produced table wines made from classic European grape varieties as well as the sweet, fortified wines that proved popular in Washington into the 1960s. He sold Harrison Hill to Associated Vintners (which later became Columbia Winery) in the early 1960s. They planted the 5-acre

VISITING S N I P E S M O U N TA I N

There are no tasting rooms on Snipes Mountain, making it the only AVA in Washington without one. However, Upland Estates has two tasting rooms: U P L A N D E S TAT E S , 6141 Gap Road, Outlook, Wash., 509-8392606. It is open by appointment. T I M ’ S P L A C E , 312 E. Yakima Ave., Yakima, Wash., 509-248-5251. Open daily. For more information, go to www.uplandwinery.com

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A worker harvests grapes by hand last fall on Snipes Mountain.

vineyard to Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties, some of which remain today. Bridgman sold the winery in 1960 and died in 1968. The winery, whose name was changed to Santa Rosa Winery after Bridgman it, closed in 1972, and the vineyards were sold to Al Newhouse the next year. At that time, the vineyard was about 80 acres. The Newhouses were no strangers to farming. The family began growing alfalfa in the Yakima Valley in 1913 and started the valley’s first dairy operation in the 1920s. Al Newhouse planted his first wine grapes — Chardonnay — in 1968. After acquiring Upland Vineyards and renaming it Newhouse Farms to reflect the family’s diversity of crops, Newhouse planted Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. In the early 1970s, Steve and John Newhouse, Al’s sons, became involved full time in the farming operation. Al Newhouse and his six brothers farmed together until 1982. The family was big into hops and Al wanted to focus on wine grapes and tree fruits, so they amicably split up 64

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the operation and the name changed to Upland Farms. In the mid-1990s, Todd Newhouse joined the operation after graduating from Whitman College in Walla Walla with a degree in history. His two younger brothers have since joined the family business. A cousin, who also owns a vineyard on Snipes Mountain, is Dan Newhouse, the state director of agriculture and a former state legislator. Today, Todd Newhouse oversees an operation that includes wine grapes, juice grapes, cherries, apricots, nectarines, peaches, prunes, pears and apples. Most of the grapes on Snipes Mountain go to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville and Hogue Cellars in nearby Prosser, though more than 20 other wineries also purchase grapes from Newhouse, including Vin du Lac of Chelan, Thurston Wolfe in Prosser and Brian Carter Cellars in Woodinville. The Newhouses also own Harrison Hill, a few minutes from Snipes Mountain. All of the grapes go to DeLille Cellars in Woodinville, Wash., which produces a red blend

called Harrison Hill. It was the first vineyard-designated wine to come from Newhouse-grown grapes. In 2006, the Newhouse family launched Upland Estates, reviving the name of Bridgman’s operation that began soon after Repeal. The first wine, released in 2007, was a 2006 Gewürztraminer. The 2007 Malbec won best in show last fall at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival in Kennewick. The wines are made by Robert Smasne in nearby Grandview. Today, the winery makes about 650 cases, which will grow to about 1,500 cases in the next two years. Upland has a tasting room at the foot of Snipes Mountain, just outside the appellation boundary. With Joan Davenport, a professor of soil science at Washington State University’s research station in Prosser, Newhouse, 36, began working on a petition to recognize Snipes Mountain and Harrison Hill as an official AVA. Davenport, who owns DavenLore Winery in Prosser with her husband, Gordon Taylor, did all the geological research and handled most of the petition writing. The federal government

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Harvested grapes await a winemaker on Snipes Mountain in the Yakima Valley.

Snipes Mountain is the second-smallest American Viticultural Area in Washington.

approved it Jan. 21, 2009. “Without her, it wouldn’t have happened,” Newhouse said. DavenLore’s 2007 Syrah Forté, a Port-style red released last summer, was the first wine to use the new Snipes Mountain AVA on the label. Larry Lehmbecker, owner and winemaker of Vin du Lac of Chelan, our 2010 Northwest Winery of the Year, has used Snipes Mountain grapes since 2002, his first vintage. “Snipes Mountain is a special place,” Lehmbecker said. “Todd and I had a mutual friend, so I went down there for fruit. Todd had this block that fit well with what I wanted to do.” Those four rows of Cabernet Franc on the slightly cooler north side of the hill have gone into Vin du Lac’s consistently great wines. Bob Bertheau, head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle, primarily uses white grapes from Snipes Mountain. He loves the balanced nature of Snipes because it’s warmer than the surrounding Yakima Valley but not as hot as other areas of the Columbia Valley. “The soil is more gravely and

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

rocky as you climb the hill,” Bertheau said. “That adds character to the wines.” Bob Betz, a Master of Wine and owner/winemaker of Betz Family Winery in Woodinville, began using Snipes grapes last fall. “In my 35 years in the Columbia Valley, I’d never been on Snipes Mountain,” Betz said. “I was blown away, as I had never seen soil like this in the Columbia Valley in all my years.” Betz described the huge amount of cobble as “sweet potato rocks” because of their shape and size as well as their ability to absorb and hold heat, which helps grapes continue to ripen even after the sun sets. Betz is crafting a Grenache using grapes from Snipes and three other sites. “For me, it’s a great place for Grenache. What I see right now is vibrant color, great depth of fruit and great character. I’m excited about it.” Which brings us back to W.B. Bridgman, the man who had a vision for what Washington wine could be nearly a century ago. Bridgman truly

was ahead of his time, as the European-style table wines he wanted to make simply were not popular in post-Prohibition Washington. When he sold Upland in 1960, he no doubt saw it as a failure and was unlikely able to envision that his pioneering work would be thriving some four decades later. “Bridgman would be thrilled to see some of the grapes he planted still here,” Newhouse said. Rows of Thompson Seedless vines planted in 1917 by Bridgman, with thick, gnarly trunks, continue to produce huge clusters of grapes. Next to them is Muscat of Alexandria that was planted the same year, which Newhouse uses for his Upland Winery ice wine. “When you go by these old vines, you’re always reminded of (the history),” Newhouse said. “I think Bridgman would be pleased. This is an extension of the dream he had. Little did he know it would be revived again. “This is a special place.”ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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M AT C H M A K E R S Picazo 7Seventeen’s Seafood Pasta Paella served with Olsen Hills’ 2007 Malbec.

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE

Picazo 7Seventeen Prosser chef pairs local wine and ingredients BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

P R O S S E R , WA S H . —

ost wine tourists wouldn’t go to a restaurant in Bordeaux and expect to see a bottle of Russian River Pinot Noir. Which explains the premise behind Frank Magaña and Picazo 7Seventeen Wine Bar & Restaurant in Prosser, Wash. “I came here to open a wine country restaurant in the Yakima Valley and showcase the great winemakers who are here — and who are now my neighbors,” Magaña said. In fact, at Picazo 7Seventeen there’s a tariff of sorts on “foreign” wines. If the bottle is from the Northwest, corkage is $10. “It’s $25 corkage if it’s from California,” chuckled Trina Cortez, Picazo’s general manager and wine director. “Frank came up with that because he loves Washington wines so much. We don’t get a lot of California wines in here, which is good.” His neighborhood appreciates the devotion. “He’s dynamite for Prosser. Heck, he’s dynamite for the Washington wine industry,” said Jarrod Boyle, winemaker for Alexandria Nicole Cellars. Magaña, 35, and his wife, Tricia, opened Picazo 7Seventeen in October 2007. Two years later, the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers

awarded Picazo its 2009 Washington Restaurant of the Year. “We’re a little surprised at the amount of support that we get, being recognized by growers, rather than just the wineries,” Magaña said. “So it goes much more into the community level, which we are now a part of.” And yet, the farm-to-table concept stretches beyond local grapes for Magaña. It’s why Wine Press Northwest chose Picazo 7Seventeen to begin our new Match Maker format, which profiles restaurants that work with regional wines and local farmers. “My kids are going to school with their kids,” Magaña explained. “We run into them at the skating rink; we run into them at Boys Scouts. We run into them just at the regular store every day. We have breakfast together. “So why wouldn’t you want to know the farmer who is putting the food on your plate?” he continued. “If we did this restaurant in Seattle, we’d have just as great of restaurant, but I wouldn’t have the chance to know my farmer. And that’s what I really want to do.” There may not be a more connected chef in Eastern Washington, and his Wednesday night promotion factors into that. “It’s ‘Industry Night’ here,

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Olsen Hills $19 2007 Malbec, Yakima Valley —400 cases produced, 14.4% alcohol he game plan for this estate juice was to join other Bordeaux varieties in a blend for Olsen Estate. After all, these were unproven vines producing for the Olsen family’s new showpiece winery at the Vintners Village in Prosser, Wash. “That was third-leaf for those vines, so it’s pretty astounding to get that out of them so early,” said winemaker Kyle Johnson. “It was one of those things where we’d just wait and see what the quality would be.” Tasting is believing, but the family hedged its bets. They bottled their 2007 Malbec under the lower-priced Olsen Hills label, which is primarily sold only in the tasting room. Olsen’s fans have cheered, including those at nearby Picazo 7Seventeen Wine Bar & Restaurant. Executive chef Frank Magaña handpicked the 2007 Malbec to be the red wine for his Match Maker project. “It’s gotten down to such a level now that it’s only offered to our wine club,” Johnson said. “There are only about 15 cases left.” However, Magaña’s guests can find it on his wine list. “That was our inaugural vintage for Malbec, and the wine can stand on its own,” Johnson said. “It’s got nice fruit and the dried tobacco component is pretty prevalent.” The ripeness shows with notes of plums and black currant jam. There’s also a thread of minerality, and the underlying earthiness paired well with the squid ink pasta in Magaña’s Seafood Paella Pasta. Olsen Estates’ plantings cover 765 acres spanning 26 sites, fanned out between Whitstran and Benton City near the Yakima River. The 21 varieties Johnson works with range in elevation from 600 to 1,000 feet. The Malbec vines are clones 4 and 9 from the same hillside block. “It comes off a slightly cooler site, but it still gets a fair amount of heat,” he said. For the winemaking, Johnson employed 60 percent new French oak barrels for 16 months. “It was on the lees for a good 10 months,” he noted. Outside of Argentina, it’s rare to see a Malbec available for less than $20, so what’s in store for the 2008 Malbec? “It will still be in the Olsen Hills label,” Johnson said. “There’s an increase in the quality, but we’ll keep it in the lower tier for now. It’s really doing well at the price point.”

Olsen Estate, 500 Merlot Drive, Prosser, WA 99350, 509-786-7007, www.olsenestates.com.

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M AT C H M A K E R S so we offer some industry discounts and we waive all corkage fee for anybody in the industry,” Magaña said. “It goes for the grape grower to the tasting room attendant to the winemaker. We want everybody to come in here, drink their wine with our food, then go back and talk about it. “It’s a nice friendly environment, and there’s a lot of sharing and community,” he continued. “People who haven’t seen somebody for a season, will say, ‘Hey, how are you doing? You should try this (wine). It’s from that vineyard I was telling you about.’ ” Magaña began to create connections with Yakima Valley winemakers during his days at Puget Sound restaurants such as Salty’s on Alki in West Seattle and The Lobster Shop at Dash Point near Tacoma. Along the way, he turned a former coworker, Tricia, into his wife. “Winemakers would invite us over for the weekend, and we always wanted to come to a restaurant similar to this when we were here — and there wasn’t one,” Magaña said. “I was surprised because everything

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RECIPE Serves 2

A twist on the Classic Seafood Paella, this dish was created for those who want the entire flavor of the traditional seafood paella — without all the time. The pasta brings a richness that isn’t found in the original. 4 4 1 ⁄2 1 ⁄2 1 1 8 6 6-8 1 ⁄8 1 ⁄8 4

⁄2 cup dry white wine ⁄4 teaspoon saffron 12 ounces fresh squid ink fettucine (find at The Spanish Table in Seattle or substitute plain fresh fettucine) 1 cup vegetable stock 1 ⁄2 lemon plus extra wedges for garnish salt and pepper, to taste 4 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1

Seafood Pasta Paella

tablespoons olive oil ounces uncooked ground chorizo pound Manila clams, live, cleaned pound Penn Cove mussels, live, cleaned, bearded cup onion, julienned cup bell peppers, variety of colors, large dice jumbo prawns, peeled and deveined ounces fresh salmon, 1-inch dice sea scallops teaspoon smoked paprika teaspoon salt cloves garlic, crushed

is grown right here. On any regular night, you’ll see our farmers and our grape growers and winemakers here eating dinner. Why anyone wouldn’t take advantage of that prior to me, I wasn’t sure.” Soon after, the Magañas arrived in Prosser. In April 2007, they launched the catering side of Picazo Inc., named after the maiden name of Frank’s mother. Six months later, they opened Picazo 7Seventeen at 717 Sixth Street on the ground floor of the historic Mercer Building. “I knew that he would make it successful because he’s talented and he works his ass off,” Boyle said. A native of Washington state, Magaña was born at Fort Lewis and graduated from Woodrow Wilson High School in Tacoma. “I’m actually an Army brat,” he said. “My dad was in the service, and we traveled every two or three years all over the United States. My parents liked Washington the best, especially the west side, so they bought a house in the Fircrest area. “Shortly after I graduated high

Heat pan to medium high heat, add oil, chorizo, clams, mussels, onions and bell peppers. Sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add prawns, salmon, scallops, paprika, salt and garlic. Sauté for 3-4 minutes, then deglaze with white wine. Add saffron and fresh pasta. Add vegetable stock. Cover for 3 minutes. Remove the lid, squeeze juice from half a lemon into paella, add salt and pepper to taste, toss, garnish with lemon wedges, green onions and parsley. Serve. school, I went to the Seattle area because when you are young, that’s what you do,” he said with a smirk. “I ended up working in a restaurant for a family friend and one thing led to another. I was really enjoying the culinary life — a lot of wine and a lot of food.” Now that he’s on the east side of the Cascades, he’s not spending as much time hiking in the Cascades and Olympics. Instead, he drives through wine country in search of ingredients. He’s got executive sous chef Andrew Jones doing the same. “We hit the farmers markets in Pasco, West Richland and here in Prosser looking to make contact with local farms that fit the needs of the restaurant and catering company,” Magaña said. “As we make these contacts, relationships develop and friendships with our neighboring farms grow. We typically get a couple deliveries a week from these suppliers when the season is cranking along. And you’ll even see us at one of the markets sourcing a few products for our nightly fresh sheet specials.”

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M AT C H M A K E R S Beef comes from nearby Toppenish. One of his primary sources of produce is Buggirl’s Garden. Stacey Gingras and her family in Prosser produce peppers, onions, green onions, parsley, jalapeño, tomatoes and 40 varieties of apples among their seven acres. “My father oversees the orchard, Mom and I run the nursery, and at the Prosser Farmers Market you can find my husband roasting peppers,” said Gingras, a Washington State University graduate. Other Yakima Valley purveyors include AprèsVin, which produces oils and flour make from grape seeds, and Chukar Cherry. And Magaña appreciates the effort that farming demands. Chef Frank Magaña dices an avocado to “When it’s something put in his ceviche. you believe in and it comes easily, you don’t get up and Most of the catering is for what he think about going to work,” Magaña terms as “partners” in wine industry, said. “You get up and think about including the Washington Wine doing what you love.” Commission, Wine Yakima Valley That passion and his congeniality business tours, a long list of Prosser also show outside of the kitchen. wineries, a growing number on Red “He’s there behind the scenes, but Mountain — including Col Solare — he also walks out and shakes hands and Columbia Crest. in the restaurant,” said Boyle, who He’s an unofficial ambassador for also owns Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Washington wine industry and the Horse Heaven Hills. “He brings an admirer of Oregon Pinot Noir. other chefs in and allows them to Between he and Cortez, they feed shine, too.” three Facebook pages and talk “hash A talented supporting cast allows tags” on Twitter at picazo717. Cortez Magaña to expand his knowledge, is PicazoWineGal. He is ChefMagana. network in the industry and develop Tricia also tweets at wifeofchef. businesses. Jones, second in comThere’s the Picazo fan page, mand in the kitchen, won a 2009 www.picazo717.com, and he’s set to “Iron Chef ” type competition in the launch a blog at ChefMagana.com. Tri-Cities sponsored by a regional “We are very plugged into what’s Hispanic grocery store chain. Cortez going on in the valley,” Magaña said. manages the restaurant. Magaña’s “The wines we taste, the vineyards wife manages accounts and coordiwe see, the wineries we are catering nates the catering. to — we see all this. So we bring it “We never say ‘No’ to anything,” back in and put it back out, and not Tricia said with a smile. just on our Web site — where it’s

just one direction — we’re able to tap into social media and to allow people to see, ‘Oh, so you were at Olsen today.’ And to allow them to ask questions and we can answer them back. We want to be able to communicate with our guests. Just go right ahead. Log on and ask away. We’ll give you the answer.” Few chefs in the Northwest seem willing to make the time and the continued commitment to social networking, but it pays for Picazo and its “neighbors.” “We are big followers of Oregon wines, so we want to stay keyed into the Oregon Pinots that are coming out,” Magaña said. “Oregon Wine Blog is one of the blogs we follow. They twittered they were going to be in the Yakima Valley, so we invited them to the restaurant and guided them through a Yakima Valley dinner. In the process, we were able to introduce them to a new winery.” Yakima Valley wines make up about 80 percent of the list at Picazo 7Seventeen. “We carry Walla Walla wines, too, but the fruit has to come from the Walla Walla Valley. That is one of Frank’s rules, as well,” Cortez said with a smile. Ironically, Cortez’s career at 717 Sixth Street predates that of Magaña. That space housed Alexandria Nicole Cellars’ tasting room and restaurant for several years, and Cortez worked there starting in 2000. In 2007, Magaña hired her. “I get to taste all the wines and put them on the list,” said Cortez, who raises a family in her hometown of Grandview. “We try to bring the diners a new experience, so we have some varietals that you normally don’t see at restaurants like

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Signature Ceviche Serves 6-8

This ceviche is the perfect fit for a hot summer day to cool off. There’s a fresh flavor combination of seafood, tomatoes and avocados with just the right amount of heat. 1 1 1 3 ⁄4 1 ⁄2 1 1 4 1 ⁄2 2 1 ⁄2 1 2

pound scallops pound prawns, peeled and deveined pound fresh fish cup lemon juice cup lime juice pinch of chili powder jalapeño, seeded and finely diced Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced red onion, diced green onions tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped avocados, diced Salt and pepper, to taste

Rough chop the seafood and toss with lemon and lime juice, make sure seafood is completely covered by the juice. Refrigerate the seafood for 2 hours. Remove seafood mixture from refrigerator and add chili and jalapeño, tomato, onions and fresh herbs. Allow the mixture to stand for 1 hour in the refrigerator so ingredients marry. Drain excess lemon and lime juice, add avocado and serve. Serve with tortilla strips. Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Petit Verdot. It takes a lot of talking with the guests to get them to go that route.” One lesser-known Bordeaux variety is Malbec, which begins to explain half of Magaña’s Match Maker assignment. Olsen Hills 2007 Malbec from the Columbia Valley — a tasting-roomonly bottling — was the selected red wine. Next door to Olsen at Prosser’s Vintners Village is Airfield Estates, which produced the 2008 Thunderbolt White Wine. “We don’t try to pair wines with our foods so much as that we taste the wine and then figure our what we can create to help showcase the wine,” Magaña said. “Being here in 76

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Trina Cortez

the heart of wine country, that’s fairly easy to do.” Initially, Magaña angled toward his Chipotle Shellfish Cakes with the Thunderbolt and grilled hanger steak marinated in his smoky chimichurri — based on dark chili powder, paprika, garlic — with the Olsen Hills 2007 Malbec. “We find components in the wine that we want to highlight, then we go back to the dish to make sure they go completely,” he said. On the eve of the photo shoot, he changed his attack. He decided upon Seafood Pasta Paella with the Malbec, and Signature Ceviche for the Thunderbolt. “Here, being with a Spanish-influenced restaurant, we try to come up with items that are unique to us and you can’t find anywhere else in the valley,” he said. “One of those is the squid ink fettuccine that we are able to source. It’s a fresh ingredient that helps us bring complexity to a dish that is already in the wine. We also build an underlayer with spices to add just enough heat that you taste it throughout the wine, in the middle and then

again in the finish. It’s another way to build upon the wine.” Preparing the dish with pasta, rather than the traditional rice, allows Picazo guests to order a single plate and not have to wait 45 minutes for the rice to marry with the paella ingredients. In this case, squid ink pasta — a fascinating component — accents the earthiness and rich black fruit inherent in the Olsen Hills 2007 Malbec. As for the Airfield Estates 2008 Thunderbolt, it’s brisk and refreshing because of the Sauvignon Blanc. “With the ceviche, we wanted something so fresh and so clean tasting because the wine is just about the same,” Magaña said. As the weather warms this spring, both the Thunderbolt and the ceviche should be ideal. There’s a real freshness to this light, balanced and twice-marinated dish that highlights scallops, prawns and avocado. Magaña plays off the Thunderbolt’s acidity by including both lemon and lime juice. And the subtle heat from jalapeño and chili powder will have you reaching for that palate-cleansing wine. “It’s complete,” Magaña said. Throughout this spring — in commemoration with this feature — Magaña will feature both Match Maker pairings on the menu at Picazo 7Seventeen. So friends, fans and followers of Magaña, Cortez and Wine Press Northwest can get that neighborhood experience. Picazo7Seventeen, 717 Sixth St., Prosser, WA, 99350, 509-786-1116, www.picazo717.com.ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s managing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE Airfield Estates $14 2008 Thunderbolt White Wine, Yakima Valley —428 cases produced, 13.5% alcohol irfield Estates winemaker Marcus Miller gets to decide when to pick his father’s 40-year-old vineyard in Prosser. In 2008, just when to bring in the Sauvignon Blanc for their Thunderbolt program was a tough call. “It was very scary,” Miller recalls. “Our harvest typically begins with Sauvignon Blanc, but 2008 was a very cool vintage. We didn’t harvest our Sauvignon Blanc until Oct. 8, which is a month behind when we typically harvest that variety. It took a lot of patience on my side to wait for those flavors to develop.” It’s primarily Sauvignon Blanc (95%), with Semillon to add some lemony citrus. In the Fall 2009 issue of Wine Press Northwest, this same wine received an “Excellent” and appeared in the Best Buy category for white wines. And rather than labeling the wine as Sauvignon Blanc, the family continues its tradition of naming blends after World War II fighter planes. Thunderbolt was the Army nickname for the P-47, the largest fighter and capable of air combat as well as ground attack. “We try to make the names of the planes fit the personality of the wine,” Miller said. “The Thunderbolt would take tons of shots and stay airborne, and no ace pilot ever was shot down in one. And our Thunderbolt is a tank of a wine. It’s all stainless steel, and there’s no razzle-dazzle. I just stay out of the way.” In previous vintages of Thunderbolt, Miller played with skin contact, barrel programs and higher percentages of Semillon. “Earlier in my career, I was overmaking the wine,” he said. “One day I would freak out, so I’d overreact. And in 2005 and 2006, deciding on crop levels were huge battles for us.” For 2008, it’s a clean and mean drink with apricot, peach, honeysuckle and grassy flavors with bold orangey acidity that plays nicely with white fish, green salads and grilled asparagus. “The Semillon adds a little body and mid-palate weight because our Sauvignon Blanc tends to be lean and acid-driven,” Miller said. “But we know the Thunderbolt is all about the aromatics and nice crisp acidity, so (for the 2009 vintage) I’m leaning toward not adding any Semillon. We’ll still call it Thunderbolt, though.”

Picazo 7Seventeen’s Signature Ceviche paired with Airfield Estates’ 2008 Thunderbolt White Wine.

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

Airfield Estates, 560 Merlot Dr., Prosser, WA, 99350, 509-786-7401, www.airfieldwines.com.

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WINE COUNTRY: CLARK COUNTY

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WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO

“BEST RED WINE” ~ 2008 Northwest Wine Summit www.koenigvineyards.com • 208-455-8386 20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, ID 83607 Open Fri., Sat. & Sun. 12-5

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Columbia Crest 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine evaluation methods

Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $27

Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

its “older brother” was voted No. 1 in the world by some other publication. In our minds, though, this vintage by Ray Einberger is showing even better. It’s a full nose of voluptuous black cherries, dark plums, blackberries, pomegranate, vanilla, fresh-brewed mocha, cedar and cracked red peppercorns. Think of Chukar Cherries on the palate with blackberry jam, bright acidity, dark chocolate and noticeable yet managed frontal tannins.

Reds Cabernet Sauvignon

Outstanding! Good luck on finding this wine after

and menthol tones are found within a structure of sturdy tannins and food-friendly tartness.

Caterina Winery

Alexandria Nicole Cellars

2001 Willard Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Alderdale Cabernet Sauvignon

Yakima Valley, 260 cases, 13.7% alc., $20

Recommended. Spokane winemaking veteran Don

Horse Heaven Hills, 398 cases, 14.7% alc., $35

Townshend recently purchased this historic downtown winery, and he came across these older wines that show very little age but plenty of power and true Cab character. There’s a theme of black cherries, hibiscus, violets, green bean and cigar tobacco with a fascinating finish of Heath Bar ice cream.

Excellent. Jarrod Boyle’s estate vineyard also pro-

duced the Cabernet Franc (13%) and Petit Verdot (6%) that spent 22 months in French oak. It offers aromas of brown sugar, coffee, blackberry, raspberry and cedar. Spicy plums and blackberries with the seed breeze in sweetly on the palate, finished by hints of mocha and Arabic coffee.

Amavi Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 5,974 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Outstanding! Those who swooped in for “Leonetti Weekend” last year arrived just in time for JeanFrançois Pellet’s release of his underrated label off Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. It’s loaded with blackberry, black currant, rose hips and Graham cracker aromas. Collectors will especially appreciate the bold flavors of blackberry, cassis and Baker’s chocolate.

Barnard Griffin 2005 Sagemoor Vineyard Partners Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 124 cases, 15.2% alc., $60

Outstanding! Rob Griffin’s continued success with his consumer-minded Tulip label allows him projects such as this: a collaboration with this famed vineyard. This wine had a decadent life of 30 months in barrel, which ushers in aromas of black cherry, mint chocolate chip ice cream, violets and shoe cream. Smooth and seamless only begin to describe what awaits on the palate with boysenberry, cranberry and cherry flavors. There’s blackberry, mocha and tobacco in the midpalate, which stretches into a finish of peppermint green tea.

Caterina Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Recommended. Strawberry fruit leather, canned

pie cherries, bramble berries, Italian seasoning

CE Vineyards 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 340 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Outstanding! When the Lake Chelan AVA was created, Chelan Estate was required by law to create a second label if it wanted to continue making wines from grapes outside the appellation. This superbly balanced Cab, from a renowned site in the Frenchman Hills near Royal City, Wash., makes the label hassle worth it. There’s a fair bit of oak behind the bright cherries and raspberries with cinnamon, coffee, tobacco and licorice aromas. Richness comes on the complex approach of black cherries and chocolate, focused by pleasing acidity and tannins nicely tucked in the background.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 998 cases, 14.7% alc., $26

Excellent. The Wisconsin boys tap into their

estate Sconni Block, as well as Birch Creek, Nostra Terra, Minnick Hills and Nicholas Cole for their “go-to” Cab. Wisconsin and French oak meld with maraschino cherry, coffee, chocolate, tobacco leaf, green pepper and cedar aromas. Rainier cherry and blueberry flavors include marvelous acidity with a bit of grip and a lingering finish of cracked green peppercorns.

Fraser Vineyard 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Snake River Valley, 205 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Outstanding! One of the gems in the Idaho wine industry is Bill Fraser’s boutique tasting room near the campus of Boise State University. The prize of your trip to it is this decadent drinking Cab from his small estate in Wilder. The nose is lively and fleshy with stewed cherries, dried strawberries, cedar and fresh-baked chocolate brownies. And the drink is hedonistic with blackened Bing cherries, president plums, chocolate and molasses. Chalky tannins arrive late, but they yield to a finish of a mulled cinnamon stick.

Gifford Hirlinger 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 246 cases, 14.8% alc., $28

Excellent. Mike Berghan grows it and makes it at

this Walla Walla boutique operation. Inviting aromas include black cherry, Jolly Rancher strawberry candy, rhubarb, coffee, cedar, mink oil and a slice of bell pepper. On the palate, it’s a fresh-baked and still-bubbling cherry pie, backed by pomegranate tartness and integrated tannins. A bittersweet chocolate component continues to deliver through the pleasing finish.

2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards

Columbia Valley, 8,000 cases, 14.4% alc., $28

2007 Laid Back Cabernet Sauvignon

Recommended. Inviting barrel notes of dark

Wahluke Slope, 107 cases, 13.8% alc., $29

chocolate, Graham cracker crust and cedar shavings marry well with boysenberry, black cherries and marionberries. It’s rewarding and rich on the entry with a sturdy profile of late tannins and lingering acidity.

Excellent. Riverbend Vineyard near Mattawa,

Claar Cellars 2007 White Bluffs Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 252 cases, 13.6% alc., $19

Recommended. Here’s a sturdy Cab that’s built for

the dining table, showing lots of dusty cherries, marionberry, vanilla bean, crushed leaf and green peppercorns.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 1 0

Wash., is a primary source for winemaker Judy Phelps. And for good reason. Aromas of black cherries, cola, sarsaparilla, allspice and chocolate beckon you, followed by a quaffable drink of juicy cherries, chocolate and pomegranate. There’s a sturdiness to the structure, so you can lay it down, or you can bask right now in the afterglow.

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Okanagan Valley, 850 cases, 13.8% alc., $45 CDN

Excellent. A tremendous amount of investment in W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases the vineyards, the property and the winery also shows in the wines. This vintage was Robert Summers’ first for Hester Creek, and it exudes an Old World influence starting with notes of cherries, leather, smoky plums, cedar, menthol and bell pepper. Some leafiness on the entry joins the structure of zesty acidity and maturing tannins to make for broad food applications. The finish of hazelnut coffee adds to the complexity.

Hogue Cellars

Mountain. Bing cherry, blackberry, cola and citrus aromas are joined by hints of crushed walnut, Spanish almonds, Ponderosa pine and minerality. Think of chocolate-covered cherries on the palate, with plums and a thin slice of fruit cake. The tannins are substantial but not taxing.

Recommended. Fresh cranberry, raspberry and

Abiqua Wind Vineyard 2008 Isaac’s Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 168 cases, 13.5% alc., $28

Recommended. High-toned red fruit such as cran-

Recommended. This longtime Prosser, Wash.,

berry and Montmorency cherry are joined by hints of cedar and spruce, and the easy-toapproach structure finishes with a slice of watermelon.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 96 cases, 13.6% alc., $25

Recommended. This boutique winery from

Washington’s Spokane Valley offers up a tasty and straightforward Cab loaded with blueberries, plums and cherries. Ample acidity and tannins of green tea strike balance, and there’s a finish of milk chocolate and more cherries.

Lopez Island Vineyards 2006 Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 120 cases, 14% alc., $35

Excellent. End of the Road Vineyard allowed

Brent Charnley to create an inviting and elegant Cab. It opens with notes of blueberry, pomegranate, cherry, Whopper malted milk balls, spearmint, brown sugar and lots of cedar. Sweet blueberries bounce across the silky palate, followed by more cherries, chocolate and cedar. A pinch of green peppercorns in the finish would suggest a pairing of pepper steak.

Madsen Family Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 156 cases, 15.2% alc., $30

Recommended. Here marks the first sizable vintage

for this couple in Lacey, Wash., and the primary fruit source for this release — Destiny Ridge Vineyard — shows they mean business. A dense profile of black cherries, prunes, allspice, cigar box, green tea and eucalyptus makes for a mouth-filling wine, but the finish of youthful tannins and Baker’s chocolate should reward patience.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 2,494 cases, 14.1% alc., $55

Recommended. A blend of estate fruit from Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards provides aromatics of blackberry, boysenberry, cherry cola, coffee and toffee. Blackberry and black currant flavors flow with richness into bold tannins. Some history in the cellar will provide a true reward.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 220 cases, 14.7% alc., $35

Excellent. One of Larry Lehmbecker’s secret weapons for his string of successful reds is the Newhouse family’s Upland Vineyards on Snipes W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Erath Winery Dundee Hills, 192 cases, 14.8% alc., $50

Wahluke Slope, 2,095 cases, 14.9% alc., $30

Liberty Lake Wine Cellars

some vanilla notes. They show in full force on the palate in a fruit-forward, light and juicy style that includes cherry cola and racy acidity to balance the perception of sweetness. 2006 Niederberger Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

winery builds its top tier for the long haul, and here’s classic notes of black cherry, cassis, cedar, cinnamon and shaved cedar. Chocolaty and youthful tannins with good acidity bode well for the future.

WINE REVIEWS

blackberry aromas include pie cherries, warm oak and note of prune Danish. There’s more berries and plums on the palate with a vanilla cream midpalate and pie cherry finish. Available only at the winery.

Erath Winery 2006 Tuenge Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 202 cases, 14.2% alc., $50

Apolloni Vineyards

Excellent. Gary Horner made this so nicely that it’s

2007 Ruby Vineyard Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 88 cases, 13.3% alc., $32

Recommended. Taken from Pommard clones at 21

brix, it exudes aromas of smoky cherries, forest floor and cedar fronds. The lively palate is brimming with strawberries and pie cherries, supported by lots of acidity and late-arriving tannins.

Cooper Mountain Vineyards

worth knowing how to pronounce the name of this vineyard (tongue-GEE) living in Laurelwood soil. Aromas of cherry, cranberry, cola, forest floor, vanilla bean and cream soda set up the mouth for an easy approach. In the flavors are Bing cherries and raspberries. Hints of cranberry acidity push the subtle tannins off into the background, where there’s a finish of Cinnamon Dolcé Latté. You’ll have to go to the winery for this production.

2008 Life Pinot Noir

Henry Estate

Willamette Valley, 90 cases, 13% alc., $28

2004 Barrel Select Pinot Noir

Recommended. Biodynamic practices and wines

Umpqua Valley, 594 cases, 13.5% alc., $30

without sulfites added are the focus at this estate winery in Beaverton, Ore. And there’s a homemade approach to this wine as it comes across as slices of boysenberry pie and cherry pie from the start to the lip-smacking finish. President plums, cassis syrup and some smokiness add to the rich midpalate.

Excellent. The Henrys gave this three years in bot-

David Hill Vineyards & Winery

Kathken Vineyards

2007 Barrel Select Estate Pinot Noir

2008 Signature Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 497 cases, 13.5% alc., $28

Willamette Valley, 120 cases, 13.5% alc., $27

Recommended. Notes of Burgundy appear in the

nose with watermelon, smoked cherries, white strawberries, alfalfa and green peppercorns. There’s more ripe fruit on the palate, guided by Langer’s Black Cherry juice and more watermelon. Tannins arrive late, giving way to a finish of cherry skin.

Recommended. Restrained oak allows for black cherry, strawberry, boysenberry, Dr Pepper and anise aromas to fully develop. Lots of raspberry and boysenberry hit the palate early, chased by nice notes of fennel, anise and horehound. Those spices, that pie cherry acidity and late-arriving tannins set the table for a bird hunter’s quarry.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery

King Estate

2007 Pinot Noir

2008 Signature Collection Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 1,312 cases, 13.2% alc., $20

Oregon, 25,000 cases, 13% alc., $27

Excellent. Jason Bull offers the sense of a trip to

Recommended. Pomegranate, cranberry and cher-

a U-pick berry farm in Marion County with this lower-priced Pinot Noir. Aromas of dark strawberry are joined by sweet raspberries, cranberry, candied apple and forest floor. Raspberries and marionberries lead a very flavorful profile with pleasing body. Hints of apricot, barbecue sauce and smoke conjure up a pairing with alder-smoked salmon.

ry candy notes include hints of woodruff and drip coffee. Inside, it’s bright acidity will match it marvelously with Copper River salmon or a thick slice of rare roast beef.

Duck Pond Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 17,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Outstanding! Pleasing as punch might best describe the style of this bottling by one of Oregon’s largest producers. The Fries family loaded it up with sweet berries and cherry aromas while including apricot, peach, cinnamon, Graham cracker and

tle before releasing in 2009. That was time wellspent. Sweet strawberry, cherries, white chocolate and charred oak aromas are joined by a flare of citrus. Black cherries, cranberries and plum flavors make for a juicy structure, while celery leaf and good grip from tannin firms up the finish.

King Estate 2008 Acrobat Pinot Noir Oregon, 4,500 cases, 13% alc., $20

Excellent. Not many Pinot Noirs from Oregon can be found around $20, but thankfully there’s nice distribution of this across the country. Jeff Kandarian and his crew leaned on the estate Domaine block to produce a youthful nose of Hawaiian Punch, blueberries, cherries and cedar. The fruit punch style follows through with a light and juicy structure that’s low in alcohol and finished with Bing cherries and pink peppercorns.

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recent releases

Love & Squalor

Soléna Estate

2007 Pinot Noir

2007 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 180 cases, 13.2% alc., $24

Yamhill-Carlton District, 350 cases, 13.7% alc., $45

Recommended. This blend of Temperance Hill and

Recommended. The Montalieus farmed this biody-

Willakia vineyards starts out as a bit of a wallflower with shy aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, light cedar and smoky green peppercorns. The juices get flowing in the mouth with sweet cherries, penetrating acidity from pomegranate and a drop of Liquid Smoke in the sendoff.

namic estate block at 2.5 tons per acre, which yields notes of pomegranates, pie cherries, citrus, coffee and a whiff of cedar sweater box. Pie cherries, smoky oak and coffee return as flavors with nice acidity and assertive tannins.

Martin-Scott Winery

Soléna Estate 2007 Grand Cuvée Pinot Noir

2007 Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 3,500 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Columbia Valley, 48 cases, 15.6% alc., $22

Recommended. Aromas of plum jam on toast,

Recommended. A small and ripe lot from this East

pomegranate, Montmorency cherry and smoky chocolate come through on the palate in a light structure with cranberry acidity.

Wenatchee, Wash., winery provides tones of cherries, rose petals and chocolate inside an easy drink that features bracing acidity rather than tannin.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2008 Five Vineyards Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 7,000 cases, 13% alc., $18 CDN

Soléna Estate 2007 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir McMinnville, 225 cases, 13.5.%, $45

Recommended. Laurent Montalieu purchased this

a springboard for the rewarding acidity and crunch of Wheat Thin cracker in the finish.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2007 Olalla Vineyard Pinot Noir Umpqua Valley, 249 cases, 13.3% alc., $60

Outstanding! Bob Reid’s five-acre vineyard in the town of Winston, Ore., got its start in 1975, and this blend of Pommard and Dijon 115 clones ranks among Jacques Tardy’s finest productions. The attraction for you begins with exceptional color in the glass. Then, the nose is filled with Rainier cherries, cranberry, rhubarb, cinnamon, nutmeg and forest floor. Incredible smoothness awaits with delicious cherries and cranberries, capped by a cup of Costa Rica coffee.

Winter’s Hill Vineyard 2006 Cuvée du Vigneron Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 226 cases, 14.1% alc., $39

Excellent. It translates to “The Winegrowers

Blend,” and this production of Pommard clone berries lives up to its name. There’s a warm greeting of oak to support the black cherry and baked plum aromas, spiced up by green peppercorn. Black cherries carry the easy-drinking theme in the mouth with a hint of earthiness, blueberry acidity and green tea tannin..

five areas of the valley for this lighter-structured and fruit-forward drink. It zeroes in on red tones akin to Rainier cherry, raspberry, cranberry and fresh president plums, accented by smokiness and pink peppercorns. Think of lamb or salmon grilled on the patio.

30-year-old vineyard in 2007 and made an approachable Pinot Noir right away. Blackberries, espresso, Triscuit cracker, cedar and five spice powder fill the nose. It’s black cherries and Hershey Kisses on the palate with some white strawberry on the midpoint and good acidity in the finish of this easy drink. Enjoy with a bowl of savory meatball soup.

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery

Dundee Hills, 1,195 cases, 14.1% alc., $29

2005 Barrel Select Pinot Noir

2007 Chehalem Mountains Select Pinot Noir

Washington, 255 cases, 13.9% alc., $23

Chehalem Mountains, 338 cases, 13.6% alc., $52

Excellent. Savory aromas of cranberry, pie cher-

Excellent. Jacques Tardy tapped into Hawk’s View, Alloro and Arbre Vert vineyards for a concoction that launches with smoky cherry, tobacco, cedar and pink peppercorn aromas. Smooth cherries with strawberries and watermelon come through to the palate. The spicy finish includes mace at the midpoint and a pinch of green peppercorns.

Excellent. Delphine Gladhart’s estate fruit resides in an area that might be viewed as “The Beverly Hills” of the Dundee Hills, bordering Domaine Serene, Stoller Vineyards and Vista Hills. It’s a cherry bomb that explodes in every direction, starting in the nose with raspberries, blueberries, citrus, mushrooms, black olives, black pepper and char. The drink is black cherries Cola, with plums and citrus tucked into the midpalate.

2006 Pinot Noir

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery

Winter’s Hill Vineyard

Washington, 365 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

2007 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Noir

Excellent. Mike Buckmiller is the only winemaker

Willamette Valley, 1,030 cases, 13.4% alc., $45

Dundee Hills, 138 cases, 13.5% alc., $50

this Oroville, Wash., winery has known, and he shows the potential for this variety in the Evergreen State. Aromas of subtle cherry, toasted oak, red bell pepper and vanilla translate into sweet pie cherry flavors. There’s support from chocolate and nice tannins.

Recommended. A French reference to “two glass-

Recommended. A blend of six barrels from sepa-

Recommended. John Simes’ crew sources from

ry, chocolate, smoked paprika and cedar evolve into an easy entry of cranberry and Bing cherry with good acidity. Chocolate, green peppercorn, some char and sturdy tannins bring to mind a pairing with a bowl of Hungarian stew.

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards

Primarius Winery 2007 Pinot Noir Oregon, 14,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Recommended. A growing number of Northwest

wineries are trying to target the $15-$20 price point for Pinot Noir, and here’s a tasty example. Hints of strawberry, plums, cherry Life Saver candy, Oreo cookie and caramel include a game of Russian Roulette with a Whitman’s Sampler. The addition of Syrah (5%) shows on the lightly structured palate as plums join theme.

Redman Wines

es,” this product of seven vineyards contributes notes of cherry, crushed leaf, smoked cherry wood, sandalwood and green peppercorns.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery

2005 Reserve Pinot Noir

rate blocks off the Gladhart estate, first planted in 1990, it’s a fruit-forward drink with strawberry, black cherry and plums. There are supporting accents of chocolate shavings and coffee, with cinnamon and blueberry in the farewell.

Merlot

Eola-Amity Hills, 326 cases, 13.35% alc., $52

Excellent. Four sites — Hidden Rocks, Willakia,

Temperance Hill and Vanjohn — gave Jacques Tardy the tools to skillfully deal with a difficult vintage. There’s a plummy aspect to the aromas, along with Bing cherry, pomegranate, moist earth, cinnamon and a Swisher Sweet cigar. Flavors of pomegranate and cranberry rush in with dried strawberry and alfalfa in the midpalate.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery

Mellisoni Vineyards 2006 Reserve Merlot Wahluke Slope, 437 cases, 14.3% alc., $35

Recommended. The Mellisons debuted their wines

to their Lake Chelan neighbors last fall. Plums and dusty Bing cherry aromas with balanced oak tones of vanilla and allspice fall into juicy flavors of more plums and boysenberries. Its lighter structure and dusty tannins will pair nicely with a plate of spaghetti and meatballs.

2007 Hawks View Vineyard Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 93 cases, 13.6% alc., $60

Willamette Valley, 847 cases, 13% alc., $30

Recommended. This vineyard sells fruit to seven

Recommended. Tones of Van cherry, white straw-

nearby wineries, and Torii Mor contracts for seven distinct blocks for this expressive release. Bing cherry, chocolate, cinnamon, toasted sesame and hints of barbecue pork fill the nose. Rainier cherries, cranberries and plums provide

2006 Pinot Noir

2007 Eola-Amity Hills Select Pinot Noir

2007 Pinot Noir

berry, rose petal and French oak are carried along with delicious acidity and a candy cane finish. Enjoy this with pork, salmon or pasta in an Alfredo sauce.

Winter’s Hill Vineyard

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Syrah Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2007 Syrah Cuvée Umpqua Valley, 215 cases, 13.6% alc., $19

Recommended. This offering of high-toned red W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases fruit of currants and cherries shows complexity of brown sugar, mint and green peppercorns. They provide a bold drink with late tannins and some fresh-brewed coffee in the farewell. Enjoy with braised ribs.

AlmaTerra 2006 Coéo Three Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 105 cases, 13.9% alc., $48

Excellent. Geologist Alan Busacca teamed with

Yakima Valley winemaker Robert Smasne for a terroir-based project of Syrah. However this is an assemblage of all three vineyards in their program — Ciel du Cheval, Coyote Canyon and Minick. This bottle brings aromas of strawberry jam, root beer, rose petal and tobacco leaf. The drink is juicy with blueberry, marionberry, milk chocolate and hot buttered rum batter. Supple tannins and a spicy finish bring to mind a plate of sizzling pepper steak.

AlmaTerra 2006 Minick Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley, 50 cases, 13.5% alc., $50

juicy blackberry and blueberry, cherry chocolate cake and hints of mince meat pie.

Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden 2006 Syrah Applegate Valley, 300 cases, 13.9% alc., $32

Excellent. It bodes well for the future of this Southern Oregon certified biodynamic site that mere second-leaf fruit produced a wine of this quality. Tones of blackberry, Rainier cherry, loganberry and citrus — a hint at the Marsanne (5%) — are met by chocolate, cinnamon and oregano. The combination of cherry skin tannin and shiny acidity will serve this well with braised meats, but it's also worthy of slotting in the cellar.

Coyote Canyon Winery 2005 Estate Syrah Horse Heaven Hills, 273 cases, 13.9% alc., $18

Recommended. Blackberry, boysenberry and lin-

gonberry create the theme for this drink, which adds components of crushed leaf and saddle leather to a tannin structure of chocolate.

Crayelle Cellars

and orange peel are the hallmarks of this quaffable Syrah.

2007 Syrah

Amavi Cellars

Pepper notes play out in rich forms on the chocolaty palate which is capped by toasted cigar leaf and assertive tannins.

Recommended. Craig Mitrakul made award-winning wines in the Columbia Basin for Ryan Patrick and St. Laurent. Here marks the debut of his project with his wife, Danielle. The equivalent of three barrels produced notes of blueberry, cherry cola, chocolate, chalkboard dust and bacon. The structure is framed by lip-smacking boysenberry acidity and a good grip from tannins.

Barrister Winery

Dusted Valley Vintners

2006 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah

2007 Stained Tooth Syrah

Columbia Valley, 159 cases, 14.6% alc., $27

Columbia Valley, 1,150 cases, 14.7% alc., $26

Excellent. These Spokane members of the state

Outstanding! Good thing for co-winemaker Chad

bar negotiate deals with some of the top vineyards in the state, including this venerable site north of Pasco, Wash. The nose will barrel you over with notes of bacon, chocolate, allspice, nutmeg, root beer and coffee with ample hints of boysenberry and orange peel. It’s quite a reward on the approach with big flavors of blackberry and marionberry, framed by firm tannin and finished with a bite of a Kit Kat Bar.

Johnson that his dad is a dentist, but it’s great for us that these Wisconsin winos love Rhône. Dusty cherries, strawberry and raspberry aromas are joined by hints of chocolate, coffee, cedar and some orange peel, a sign of Viognier’s influence (5%). Juicy cherries and boysenberries lead the attack with pomegranate acidity and late-arriving chocolaty tannins. Suggested fare includes rack of lamb rubbed with rosemary and thyme.

Cadaretta

El Corazon Winery

2007 Syrah

2008 With Love Syrah

Columbia Valley, 378 cases, 14.6% alc., $35

Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 14.9% alc., $23

Excellent. Four renowned vineyards — Pepper

Outstanding! There’s boutique, and here’s microboutique. Young winemaker Spencer Sievers made a mere 175 cases total for his second vintage for his Walla Walla start-up. Attention to detail shows from this bottling of fruit from Theide Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope as marionberry and lilac aromas get backing from barrel tones of Belgian chocolate, vanilla bean and cafe mocha froth. Flavors of rich black cherry and raspberry funnel into a bright and balanced structure finished by bittersweet chocolate.

Walla Walla Valley, 1,736 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Recommended. Plums, black cherry and Dr

Bridge, Stone Tree, Wallula and Gamache — build the backbone of this brooding and hedonistic drink from this young Walla Walla winery as its own plantings develop. One gets a sense of density in the nose, which throws off blackberry, Bing cherry, bittersweet chocolate, cigar leaf and tar. Richness spills out in a theme of blackberry syrup over a chocolate brownie, yet there's enough balance for richly flavored meats.

Columbia Crest

Washington, 72 cases, 14.3% alc., $26

2006 Reserve Syrah

Fujishin Family Cellars

Columbia Valley, 2,340 cases, 14.2% alc., $20

2008 Syrah

Excellent. Ray Einberger & Co., co-fermented this

Snake River Valley, 106 cases, 14.5% alc., $23

with Viognier (1.5%), and there's no hiding its Rhône style with enjoyable aromas of blueberry, Teisseire cassis syrup, cinnamon, coffee, black pepper and leather. The rich palate rewards with

Outstanding! College of Idaho grad Martin

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Vineyard and the parcel formerly known as Polo Cove made for aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, cherry candy, horehound and cedar. It’s big and juicy on the palate with flavors akin to cherry chocolate cake, followed by racy raspberry to supply food-friendly acidity inside the pleasing lean structure. It’s available at the Coyotes Tasting Room in downtown Caldwell.

Glen Fiona Winery 2006 Basket Press Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley, 371 cases, 13.5 % alc., $30

Excellent. William Ammons, whose career spans

the entire history of the winery, created a smooth drink of strawberry and black cherries. The influence of 30 months in barrel shows with notes of allspice, toffee, cinnamon and chocolate. A flourish of tannin at the finish bodes well for a crispy duck breast.

Glen Fiona Winery 2006 Puncheon Select Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 850 cases, 13.4% alc., $20

Excellent. The use of puncheons — more than

Recommended. Plums, blackberries, coffee, cedar

2007 Syrah

WINE REVIEWS

twice the capacity of normal-sized barrels — shows a pleasant influence as behind the dried strawberry, plum and pie cherry aromas are hints of cigar leaf, Special K cereal and malted milk balls. It’s a mouth-filling drink of deep black cherries, plums and warm coffee, finished with a pinch of green peppercorn.

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2007 Shameless Hussy Syrah Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Excellent. Sublime and enchanting aromas of

cherries, Oreo cookies, Arabic coffee, fresh-cut pineapple, eucalyptus and pink peppercorns. They lead to the doorway of a juicy and voluptuous drink of cherries and blackberries with a silky finish.

H/H Estates 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Reserve Syrah Horse Heaven Hills, 112 cases, 14.8% alc., $28

Outstanding! Mike Andrews’ top-tier program from his family’s massive vineyard reveals aromas of raspberry, boysenberry, cherry, white chocolate, cola and mint leaf. Succulent blueberry and raspberry flavors make for a mouth-coating quaffer. A perception of sweetness in the midpalate gives way to tannin and more white chocolate on the back end.

Koenig Vineyards 2007 Three Vineyard Cuvée Syrah Snake River Valley, 248 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Outstanding! Greg Koenig’s display of skill over his career allows him to cherry pick from vineyards such as Williamson, Hells Canyon and Bitner. Density begins in the nose and continues to give, starting with plums backed on parchment paper, bright cherries, crushed mint, tar and shoe polish. The massive structure opens with more plums and blackberries with the seed, yet there’s finesse with chocolate, cherries and pleasing tannins.

Major Creek Cellars

Fujishin works for one of the Northwest’s top vintners in Greg Koenig, and that association is apparent here. Fruit from nearby Bitner

2007 Syrah Wahluke Slope, 45 cases, 14.8% alc., $19

Outstanding! The Boeing Wine Club continues

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Apex Cellars 2007 Apex II Accent Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 14.3% alc., $13

Outstanding! Nova Scotia native Peter Devison taps into experience of time at Vin du Lac, Tsillan Cellars and Waterbrook for this label now made in Walla Walla. Here’s a winning blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah, opening with a nose of dense plums, smoky oak, violets, milk chocolate and black pepper. Smoothness awaits with plums and raspberries, components focused on the palate by some spearmint and nice acidity. Chocolaty tannins melt into a finish that will support pepper steak.

Buried Cane 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 1,214 cases, 14.3% alc., $15

Outstanding! The Middletons, a multi-generation Washington timber family, entered the Northwest wine industry by launching Cadaretta in Walla Walla. However, this alternative consumer brand is one for the masses and opens with a twist. Dusty black cherries, strawberries, boysenberry, moist earth and pumpkin spice aromas transition into a drink with delicious flavors to match. It’s nicely balanced with a bit of chalkiness that doesn’t detract from the finish of strawberries and coffee.

crafts these wines with Cadaretta assistant winemaker Brian Rudin, and the Down Under style shows some with this easy drink of blackberry pie crust, mulberry, Bing cherry and smoky coffee. There’s a lot of complexity and some pleasing late grip that’s capped by brown sugar and chocolate.

Columbia Crest 2007 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 170,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $11

Outstanding! There’s a new look to the label, but

the quality behind it remains the same — regardless of the price. One gets the sense of a blackberry milk shake from the aromas, followed by blueberry, chocolate, menthol and a cedar frond. The drink is substantial with black currant jam and candied blackberry from front to back. And yet, there’s a dab of rice pudding in the texture before chocolaty tannins take hold.

Columbia Crest 2007 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 30,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Recommended. This young tier takes its name

from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, and this bottling is dominated by tones of boysenberry, cherry, minerality, hibiscus and chocolate brownie. The structure is juicy and easy to like as acidity overtakes the light tannin structure.

Buried Cane

Columbia Crest

2007 Syrah

2007 Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red Wine

Washington, 818 cases, 14.2% alc., $15

Washington, 50,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Excellent. Australian native Larry Cherubino

Outstanding! Red winemaker Juan Muñoz-

to produce commercial winemakers, and this Syrah by Steve Mason must jet out of his winery in White Salmon, Wash. A production from the Milbrandts’ Clifton Vineyard, it showcases aromas of blueberry, plums, coffee, chocolate, cedar and rose petal. It’s easy on the approach with blueberry and boysenberry flavors. Cherry acidity and caramel give it extra lift on the palate, and chocolaty tannins firm it up.

Mellisoni Vineyards 2007 Syrah

Nuthatch Cellars 2007 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 94 cases, 15% alc., $24

Recommended. A blend of Seven Hills and Pepper

Bridge stays in the state of Oregon, only it’s crafted at this boutique winery in Corvallis. Huge are aromas of raspberry juice, joined by blackberry, Oreo cookie, cinnamon and a drop of steak juice. Raspberry returns on the palate, backed by some cassis and plum. There’s Oreo again in the finish. Enjoyable acidity should serve this well with turkey.

Wahluke Slope, 378 cases, 14.2% alc., $30

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Recommended. The Mellisons are new addition to

2006 Oldfield Series Syrah

the south shore of Lake Chelan, and here’s a nice debut with a youthful drink of marionberry, blueberry and strawberry candy. The smooth background includes cherry cola and sun-dried tomato with a structure of nice acidity and milk chocolate tannin.

Okanagan Valley, 340 cases, 14.9% alc., $35 CDN

Mission Hill Family Estate

Recommended. American expatriate Sandra

Oldfield streamlined her label, but the golden screwcap remains atop this rich drink of black cherries, strawberry cola, leather and cinnamon. Firm tannins and a finish of milk chocolate make this ideal for ribs braised in a molé sauce.

2007 Reserve Shiraz

Covey Run Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 25,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $9

Excellent. Winemaker Kate Michaud lords over

one of the Northwest’s largest wineries, and she continues to achieve quality with quantity. Smoky pie cherries, chocolate, root beer and shavings of cedar fill the nose. Open up a can of pie cherries with the syrup and you begin to get a sense of the flavors. Cola, cranberries and substantial tannins make for a lengthy finish. This is a wine paired for everyday enjoyment.

Covey Run Winery 2004 Cabernet Merlot Columbia Valley, 30,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $9

Recommended. A wine for masses, this easy-

drinking blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (43%), Merlot (43%) and Cab Franc is a slice of blueberry cobbler with dried strawberry and vanilla, then a splash of coffee, and capped by trailing finish of black cherries and malted milk balls. aromas of Hostess cherry pie, boysenberry, milk chocolate and green peppercorns. It becomes a drink of blackberry jam and plums, with red raspberry acidity and some milk chocolate tannin in the finish.

Trust Cellars 2007 Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 214 cases, 14.4% alc., $28

Outstanding! Steve Brooks is stringing together vintages of impressive Syrahs since his arrival to Walla Walla from Atlanta. There’s opulence in the nose from Les Collines and Va Piano vineyards, a theme of deep blackberry, blueberry and plum with hints of eucalyptus and cedar. While there’s a nice juicy approach to the palate from blueberries, there’s an Old World tone in the structure with food-friendly acidity. The finish is akin to chocolate, black cherry skin and green tea.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2007 Barrel Select Syrah Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 14.7% alc., $28

Okanagan Valley, 4,000 cases, 14% alc., $22 CDN

Trust Cellars

Recommended. Crushed cherries and plums are

2007 Syrah

ensconced in pleasing oak spice aromas, followed by flavors of boysenberry and pomegranate amid subdued tannins.

Excellent. A skillful blend of primarily Yakima

Oca threads together Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Grenache and Mourvèdre into a tapestry that nearly everyone can appreciate. Black cherries first filter into the nose, followed by boysenberries, chocolate, vanilla bean, hints of pine and juniper, then smoked meat. Those notes are delivered on the palate, and a creamy milk chocolate midpalate makes it a very easy drink.

Columbia Valley, 320 cases, 14.5% alc., $28

Valley fruit — Lewis and Portteus — casts off

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Recommended. Aromas of Bing cherry, fresh boy-

senberry, tar and drip coffee transcend into more cherries and blackberry jam flavors with a chocolaty mouth feel and cracked green peppercorns in the finish. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Covey Run Winery

Fraser Vineyard

2004 Syrah

2007 Couloir Cuvée

Columbia Valley, 23,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $9

Snake River Valley, 218 cases, 14.4% alc., $14

Recommended. Here’s one of the Northwest’s

Excellent. For most wineries this size, it seems

most affordable and available wines. The nose is loaded with cherry, chocolate, coffee and mint, followed by flavors of raspberry and mocha. Plenty of tannins and some blueberry acidity lead to bittersweet chocolate in the back end.

unreasonable to offer wine at this price, but Bill Fraser does things a bit differently. This vintage, he could have labeled this blend as Merlot (76%), despite the Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), and the nose brings a Tbone to mind with hints of charred steak, black currant jam and Ovaltine, with whiffs of menthol and cigar ash. The palate is loaded with fruit from front to back with more currant jam and cherries, milk chocolate, slate-like tannins and a finish of a Barcelona Bar.

Covey Run Winery 2006 Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley, 5,175 cases, 13.9% alc., $14

Excellent. This vintage marked Kerry

Norton’s final crush at Covey Run before moving across the production facility to Columbia Winery. It’s a nose filled with smoke, dark cherries, chocolate, coffee and leather. A tilt of the glass brings down more cherries and chocolate, joined by blueberries, more coffee and some sturdy tannins.

Hyatt Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 2,283 cases, 13.9% alc., $10

Oregon/Washington, 2,300 cases, 13.4% alc., $10

Recommended. A collection of Merlot (29%),

Hyatt Vineyards

Syrah (28%), Sangiovese (24%), Petit Verdot (18%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from this historic farmhouse in Forest Grove, Ore., features cherries, raspberries and cranberries that hit the palate in creamy fashion, then gather up acidity for a long finish. Enjoy with Italian-influenced dishes, especially something like a hearty tomato sauce.

2006 Syrah

NV Farmhouse Red

Duck Pond Cellars 2007 Fries Family Cellars Red Blend Wahluke Slope, 1,537 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Excellent. Don’t look for a duck on the label

because for this wine, it’s a tufted puffin. The estate Desert Wind and Sacagawea vineyards came together for a blend of Merlot (48%), Syrah (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Influence of Syrah shows with the blackberry aromas, which are joined by cherry, molasses, caramel, cedar and alfalfa. It’s a drink filled with richness of cherries, chocolate and mint, then shows some chalky tannins in the midpalate. Enjoy the cordial cherries in the farewell.

Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Boomtoon Syrah

Rattlesnake Hills, 1,050 cases, 13.9% alc., $10

Excellent. Estate vines first planted in 1994

show they are hitting into their stride. A major influence of new oak shows in tones of roasted coffee and chocolate brownie, which send the black cherries and dried blackberries to the bacground. However, it’s blackberry on the entry to the palate with blueberry acidity as the oak resumes. Black tea in the finish bodes well for a herb-rubbed flank steak or Beef Bourgogne.

Hyatt Vineyards 2008 Zillah Gorilla Zinfandel Rattlesnake Hills, 377 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Andy Gamache’s winemaking skill, the price point and a cute marketing pitch combined to build a following for this wine. It grabs attention with a nose of blueberries, cherries, smoky oak and rose hips. On the palate comes the bit of sweetness one expects from Zin, along with enjoyable flavors of cordial cherry and strawberry jam. Nice acidity acidity runs just over the top of the late tug from tannin before it finishes with a spicy tobacco note.

Columbia Valley, 2,400 cases, 14.6% alc., $15

Recommended. Our Washington Winery of the

Year produces a “recession” Syrah that’s easy to get into. It starts with aromas of boysenberry, plum, blackberry and steak juice. Those same berries and toasty oak make for a smooth entry, then pleasing tartness and acidity give it backyard food applications. Cherries and chocolate show up in the finish. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Kamiak 2007 Rock Lake Red Columbia Valley, 4,200 cases, 13.9% alc., $15

Excellent. Gordon Brothers in Pasco, Wash.,

streamlined the label for its second-tier program that pays tribute to Kamiak Ranch, which their grandfather began in 1907. Cabernet Sauvignon (44%), Merlot (26%), Syrah (25%) and Malbec open with an opu-

Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2008 Fox Vineyards Sangiovese Wahluke Slope, 728 cases, 12.5% alc., $11

Recommended. A program of sweet oak makes

for a fun bouquet of Bing cherries, toasted marshmallow, malted milk balls and vanilla extract. The cheery drink has hints of a Brown & Haley Cherry Mountain Bar with cherries, chocolate and nuts. There’s nice white strawberry acidity and smooth tannins to balance.

Pend d’Oreille Winery

Excellent. Some the most underrated work in

the Northwest is done by winemaker Andy Gamache for this Zillah, Wash., label. Smoky oak, black cherries, plums, chocolate and black licorice aromas have you whetting your lips. It’s a smooth, easy-drinking wine of raspberry jam, cherries and milk chocolate with more licorice, plums and some late acidity.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery

lent nose of cassis, black cherries, raspberry jam, bittersweet chocolate, black pepper and coffee. The structure is rich with more raspberry jam, a pinch of pepper, some chocolaty tannins and blueberry acidity.

2007 Bistro Rouge Washington, 2,585 cases, 14.4% alc., $12

Recommended. Stephen Meyer’s winery in the

the Idaho Panhandle became one of the first in the Northwest to “go green” with a bargain release, offering to re-fill this perennially popular blend in a magnum. For this vintage, the breakdown reads Merlot (36%), Syrah (28%), Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), Malbec (9%) and Cab Franc. The results make for an abundance of red currants, Rainier cherries, raspberries, cedar and chocolate-covered orange peel. It’s easy to drink, and that bright acidity with a hint of herbaceous make it a great food wine.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Merlot Whistle Stop Red Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, 13.7% alc., $10

Recommended. Joy Andersen’s crafts this blend

of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and Merlot into an enjoyable mix of blueberry, boysenberry and Van cherry with white chocolate. Its finish of pomegranate juice and firm tannin will pair well with pot roast, puttanesca and artisan pizzas.

Waterbrook Winery 2007 Mélange Noir Columbia Valley, 10,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

Excellent. The No. 4 founded winery in Walla Walla remains in the hands of winemaker John Freeman, and his blend of Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) Sangiovese (15%) and Cabernet Franc (13%) continues to earn shelf space in the market. He achieves aromas of raspberry and black cherries with enjoyable cedar, a chip of chocolate and a slice of roasted meat. Wild brambleberries move to the front of this drink that’s not overmade because of the pie cherry acidity, cedar and herbal tones. There’s molasses on the finish, along with more roast beef flavors.

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Vin du Lac of Chelan

Whitman Cellars

2007 Red Café Syrah

2006 Syrah

Columbia Valley, 535 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Walla Walla Valley, 950 cases, 14.2% alc. $30

Recommended. Larry Lehmbecker takes to blend-

ing Petite Sirah in his tributes to Rhône, and this features nearly 13% of it. There’s a plumpness to the nose with boysenberry, macerated cranberries, milk chocolate, tar, cedar and coffee. On the entry is a stream of sweet raspberries and huckleberries, followed by chocolatecovered Graham cracker on the midpalate, then cedar and saddle leather in the finish.

Volcano Vineyards

Excellent. There’s no lack of complexity from the blend of Seven Hills, Birch Creek, Spofford Station and Les Collines vineyards. The journey opens with a dense and dark snootful of licorice, mince meat, smoke and grilled bacon, filled in with plums, black cherries, blackberries, black olive and a Nilla Wafer dipped in coffee. Those almost Gothic tones tumble out on the palate with blackened plums, Craisins and black olive. Tannins arrive late, giving way to a lingering finish of rich cherries and bittersweet chocolate.

Cabernet Franc

2006 Fortmiller Vineyards Syrah Southern Oregon, 120 cases, 14.5% alc., $40

Outstanding! The Radcliffs love this site near

Talent, Ore., which at 2,000 feet, is one of the loftiest in the Northwest. Behind the blackberry and blueberry aromas are French oak influences from Belgian chocolate and hazelnut-flavored espresso. What follows is a easy entry of more black and blue fruits, a near absence of tannin, and a finish of tree-ripened Van cherries and chocolate.

Barrister Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 690 cases, 14% alc., $27

Outstanding! There is no arguing these two Spokane attorneys rank among the Northwest’s supreme with this variety. They continue to hold up Chelle den Pleasant in Prosser, Wash., as the key, but Cabernet Sauvignon from Bacchus and Pepper Bridge vineyards annually add

punch. It’s plummy and chocolaty in the nose, spiced up by root beer and the variety’s telltale leafy component. All those factors take their turn on the tongue, with blackberry, tar and molasses in the background. Ample acidity will lend this to sweet babyback ribs.

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, 460 cases, 13.8% alc., $27 CDN

Recommended. Enchanting notes of Bing cherries,

plums, cloves, allspice, minced meat and alder smoke are within a sturdy entry, bright acidity and an huge finish of vanilla bean.

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc Washington, 211 cases, 14.6% alc., $21

Outstanding! For more than a decade, Stephen Meyer has been sourcing Columbia Valley fruit for his winery in Sandpoint, Idaho. Here, it is Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope that allowed for aromas of plums, blackberry, blueberry, cola, tar, chocolate and the variety’s signature herbal notes, this time wintergreen and oregano. Silky smooth are the flavors of plums,

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Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, 6,444 cases, 14.3% alc., $18 CDN

Recommended. A wide ranging assortment of aro-

matics includes plums, orange peel, cloves, alfalfa, menthol, pencil lead and anchovy paste. Black cherry, menthol and anise persist on the palate with mouth-filling tannins that get whisked away by acidity. Enjoy with spaghetti and meatballs or Chicken Cacciatore.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2007 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 14.5% alc., $35

Excellent. Dusty cherry aromas include hints of

vanilla bean, mocha and minerality. Ripe blackberries step upfront on the palate with black cherries and acidity that carries all the way through. Winemaking components of leather, vanilla and chocolate don’t get in the way of the variety’s food-friendly crushed herb characteristic.

Zinfandel/Primitivo

Palmer earns lofty marks for a second straight vintage with this variety. Chukar Cherry, blueberry, cranberry, citrus, fresh-cut grass and black pepper aromas beckon. The drink showcases a juicy structure of strawberries and more cherries, with a creaminess in the midpalate. Tannins and cranberry acidity vie for attention through to the chocolaty finish.

2007 Primitivo Wahlukep Slope, 255 cases, 15.5% alc., $32

Excellent. This lot off Northridge Vineyard near

Mattawa, Wash., didn’t come off until Oct. 26, which explains the huge ripeness presented to Judy Phelps. What came out of her Manson winery starts with aromas of strawberries, raspberries, cedar and pink peppercorns. There’s a cherry candy component to the palate that includes blueberries, comes with a structure of acidity rather than tannin, then a finish of Craisins.

Tempranillo

Outstanding! Earl Jones’ Fault Line Vineyards form the broad base of this, which is perhaps his smoothest young Temp to date. The nose is of Bing cherries, brown sugar, green peppercorns and Almond Joy. Cherries are joined by blueberries and blackberries on the easy entry to the mouth. Bold acidity and building tannins give way to a long and tasty finish of Cherries Garcia ice cream.

2007 Zinfandel Applegate Valley, 14.5% alc., $50

Excellent. Hang glider/winemaker David

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Umpqua Valley, 75 cases, 12.85% alc., $25

launched their boutique winery in Corvallis, Ore., after taking part in the 2002 and 2003 harvests at Abacela. The Tempranillo comes from McCorqudale Vineyard — a previous source for Abacela — and allows from aromas of blackberry, plums, cola, menthol and a chocolate brownie. It’s a sturdy little drink with a nice entry of plums and canned cherries. Raspberries with a crunch of the seed describes both the acidity and the tannin structure.

Trio Vintners Excellent. This incubator project by three co-wine-

2007 Reserve Zinfandel

Fiasco Winery

2007 Tempranillo

Walla Walla Valley, 75 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Abacela Vineyards & Winery Southern Oregon, 1,876 cases, 14.1% alc., $20

flexes his California roots with this fun and hedonistic drink out of Hood River, Ore. Youthful and mouthwatering aromas center on Van cherries, strawberry, President plums, blueberry and malted milk balls. It’s a lighter structure than most Zins, flashing lots of blueberry and black cherries. Licorice, vanilla extract and green peppercorns build upon those catalog of flavors. It’s found only online and at the winery.

Nuthatch Cellars

2007 Tempranillo

Cathedral Ridge Winery Excellent. Head winemaker Michael Sebastini

fee, slate and tobacco aromas. Cherries, coffee and bittersweet chocolate flavors make for a structure showing a bit of opulence, framed by tannins that gather some might. A pinch of black pepper spices up the finish.

Recommended. John Bacon and Jane Smith

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards

2007 Tempranillo Cuvée

Columbia Valley, 92 cases, 15.6% alc., $38

WINE REVIEWS

makers brought in Tempranillo from Les Collines, Carménère (9%) from Ray Davis and Sangiovese (8%) from Dick Boushey, and the aromatics produced are loaded with spicy berries, Cherry Coke, orange peel, milk chocolate, white pepper, dill weed and fresh-cut cedar. Blackberries and coffee reign in the palate, with more citrus and persimmon across the midpalate. Cherry cough drop and cocoa powder finish it off.

Malbec

Davis Creek Cellars

2008 Two Vineyard Cuvée Tempranillo

2008 Pontin Vineyard Malbec

Snake River Valley, 98 cases, 13.7% alc., $22

Yakima Valley, 50 cases, 13.9% $22

Excellent. Our 2010 Idaho Winery to Watch takes

Recommended. Idaho winemaker Gina Davis

an even split from Wood River and Windy Ridge vineyards for a medium-bodied Temp that’s loaded with Bing cherry, brown sugar, cof-

reaches across state lines for a drink heavily accented by raspberry and cherry juice with tones of Tang, tobacco leaf and wintergreen.

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El Corazon Winery 2008 Super Nova Malbec Rattlesnake Hills, 150 cases, 13.5% alc., $21

Excellent. Walla Walla native Spencer Sievers

received inspiration while working at Reininger Winery, and he’s proven to be a quick study with his own lots, including this one via Kolibri Vineyard. Big blueberry aromas are joined by violets and opulent oak hints of Reese’s Pieces, cigar box and green peppercorns. Blueberry and boysenberry flavors provide a youthful smoothness, and there’s remarkable weight, backed by cracked black pepper.

Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Malbec Columbia Valley, 73 cases, 14.9% alc., $25

Outstanding! A gold medal from the San Francisco

Chronicle hangs around the neck of this bottle by East Wenatchee winemaker Mike Scott. It carries a nice amount of oak in the aromas, backed by black cherries, plums, boysenberries, mocha and minerality. Blackberries join the black cherry components on the spicy palate, followed by a bag of Aussie black licorice. Acidity hangs out beyond the edge of chocolaty tannins.

ety. Its expressive nose includes Smucker’s raspberry jam, Chukar Cherry, Constant Comment tea, green willow bark and Graham cracker. Seductive may indeed best describe the presentation of jammy plums and boysenberry on the palate, with a return of chocolate, warm cherries and Graham cracker. Supple tannins and nice acidity make this difficult to tuck away for safe keeping.

2007 Sangivoese Columbia Valley, 60 cases, 14.5% alc., $28

Recommended. The influence of Cabernet

Watermill Winery

Sauvignon (14%) and Merlot (8%) adds rather than detracts from this racy drink of marionberry and black cherries. Accents of minerality, fresh bell pepper, black pepper and bittersweet chocolate give this broad food applications.

2007 Estate Malbec

Snake River Winery

Walla Walla Valley, 200 cases, 14.6% alc., $28

2008 Arena Valley Vineyard Grenache

Outstanding! Andrew Brown and our 2010

Idaho, 175 cases, 14% alc., $19

Washington Winery to Watch don’t disappoint with this production from two estate parcels — its namesake vineyard and McClellan. First comes opulent oak aromas of white chocolate, tobacco leaf and tar, but there’s huge black fruit and a puff of chalkboard dust. Friggin’ dynamite is the well-balanced drink of black-cap raspberry and black cherry. There’s a stream of coffee all through the background, while the tannins are of blackberry seed. In the zesty finish comes vanilla bean and Baker’s chocolate.

Excellent. This estate operation in the Snake

Other reds

Otis Kenyon Wines

Davis Creek Cellars

2006 Malbec

2008 Petite Sirah

Horse Heaven Hills, 112 cases, 14.3% alc., $36

Snake River Valley, 25 cases, 13.2% alc., $25

Outstanding! Walla Walla veteran Dave

Recommended. Veteran grower Ron Bitner provid-

Stephenson poured this production off Phinney Hill into all new French oak for 18 months, and the results drive you back to the glass. Barrel notes of chocolate, cinnamon and cedar merely accent the fruit of boysenberry, black cherry and raspberry, both in the aromas and on the palate. The structure is vibrant with acidity, and the tannins are akin to a sliver of cherry skin.

Pondera Winery

ed the building blocks for this young University of Idaho grad to construct a dense version of P.S. that’s focused on plums, black cherries, boysenberry and black pepper. Food-friendly tartness, not tannin, defines this bottling.

River Valley loves to bottle varieties outside the mainstream, and here’s another example of this region’s potential with Rhône varieties. Cranberry, toasted peanut, tobacco and coffee ground aromas show off some earthy tones. Its food-friendly profile on the palate leads with boysenberry, cassis, Bing cherry and coffee. Enjoy with grilled salmon.

Snake River Winery 2007 Arena Valley Vineyard Touriga Idaho, 190 cases, 13.9% alc., $17

Excellent. Scott DeSeelhorst achieves success

with this Port variety that’s rarely seen bottled on its own in the Northwest. Cassis, marionberry, stewed cherries, boysenberry, cedar and cola aromas funnel into a bright entry cranberry juice flavors. There’s more cherry to back up this easy drink, along with marionberry, cinnamon and cherry leaf for complexity. Enjoy the finish of Luden’s Cherry Cough Drops.

Trio Vintners

Gifford Hirlinger

2007 Carménère

2007 Estate Petit Verdot

Walla Walla Valley, 46 cases, 13.5 alc., $28

Lopez Island Vineyards

Walla Walla Valley, 107 cases, 14.8% alc., $26.

2008 Malbec

Recommended. There’s a wealth of richness

Yakima Valley, 105 cases, 14% alc., $20

in the aromas and body of this drink, featuring tones of blackberries, stewed plums and Boylan Cane Cola, a smooth structure and bittersweet chocolate tannins.

Outstanding! The late Stan Clarke got a charge out of taking his Walla Walla Community College students to Ray Davis Vineyard, and this wine would make him proud. There’s a leading of Van cherries in the aromas, then comes a potpourri of herbs and roasted coffee beans. Lovely structure in the mouth is dominated by cordial cherries and blackberry. The tannins structure, tobacco and herbal components should combine for marrying with buffalo, venison or New York strip.

Recommended. Crawford Vineyard produced the

fruit for this enjoyable drink of raspberries, canned black cherries, black olives, bell pepper and bittersweet chocolate.

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards

Sleeping Dog Wines

2007 Shameless Hussy Barbera

2006 Malbec

Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Yakima Valley, 52 cases, 13.2% alc., $30

Excellent. Judy Phelps markets her young “Hussy” line at this price point, and she’s establishing a reputation for quality with it, too. The Barbera hails from Atom Vineyard in the hills above her winery in Manson, Wash., and there’s also influence (25%) from Primitivo from the Wahluke Slope. Black cherry and earthiness in the nose include barrel tones of chocolate chips. There’s more smooth black cherry and earthiness on the palate, backed by plums, blueberry acidity and the return of chocolate in the farewell.

Recommended. Strawberry/rhubarb, pie cherries,

cola and rose hip accents swirl within the offering of medium body by this boutique winery in Benton City, Wash.

Snake River Winery 2008 Malbec Snake River Valley, 215 cases, 13.6% alc., $19

Recommended. Blueberry fruit leather, boysenber-

ry, orange peel and Christmas wreath aromas transition to a well-done drink of juicy cherries and more boysenberry. It’s a lighter-structured Malbec that’s capped with tobacco and cracked green peppercorns.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Malbec Yakima Valley, 50 cases, 14.4% alc., $40

Excellent. Snipes Canyon Vineyard supplied just

enough for Larry Lehmbecker to trickle out two barrels’ worth of his lesser-known Bordeaux vari-

Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 92 cases, 15.4% alc., $25

Excellent. Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope

produced aromas of black cherry, stewed plums, horehound, Graham cracker, malted milk balls and moist earth. There’s marionberry jam on the entry, then more plums with coffee. The structure of bright acidity and heavy tannins does provide pleasure.

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Red blends Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Claret Southern Oregon, 104 cases, 14.2% alc., $32

Excellent. While this Roseburg, Ore., winery is

famous for its homage to Spain, they stay true to Bordeaux varieties also. Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (15%), Malbec (12%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Cabernet Franc went into French oak and emerged with aromas of Chukar Cherry, brown sugar, Ovaltine, vanilla bean and canned pinto beans. There’s an easy and rich entry of more cherries and chocolate malt, backed by building acidity and sinewy tannins, then finished with coffee.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Quarry Butte Red Horse Heaven Hills, 168 cases, 14.6% alc., $20

Excellent. This site, which overlooks the Columbia W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases River, was destined to become a rock quarry until the Boyle clan bought it. Hence the name of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Merlot (27%), Cabernet Franc (7%), Malbec (6%) and Syrah (3%). It’s filled with notes of wark oak, black cherries, raspberries, dates, plums, cranberries, pomegranate and Green & Black’s Dark 85% chocolate. There’s nice richness in the complex and firm structure that bodes well for the future.

Black Hills Estate Winery 2007 Nota Bene Okanagan Valley, 3,990 cases, 14.7% alc., $53 CDN

Outstanding! How popular is this wine? Jason Priestley’s group released 2,500 cases on April 18, and that allotment was gone two days later. This annual tribute to Bordeaux from this Black Sage Bench vineyard/winery features a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (46%), Merlot (39%) and Cabernet Franc. Aromas conjure up thoughts of blueberry, boysenberry, milk chocolate, chalkboard dust and a hint of Wheat Thins cracker. Amazing richness of brambleberries and milk chocolate spill out across the palate with structure of sweet tannins. It’s solid from start to finish and built for the long haul.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2007 Bordheauxd Red Columbia Valley, 402 cases, 14.4% alc., $26

WINE REVIEWS

Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (35%), Malbec (6%) and Petit Verdot yields aromas of black cherries, raspberry, oregano, caraway seed, green tea and Graham cracker. Cherry and plum jam flavors linger above bittersweet chocolate and finegrained tannins in a juicy fashion.

Columbia Crest 2006 Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $34

Outstanding! While the Reserve Cab received

much of the recent fanfare, this bottling named for the Johnny Appleseed of Washington wine remains the pride of Ray Einberger and his staff. While the blend is rather straight-forward (twothirds Merlot and a third Cabernet Sauvignon), there’s amazing complexity. Barreling for 30 months elicits alluring notes of cinnamon toast with eight-grain bread. A bit more air brings in blueberry sauce over chocolate cake with backing from black cherry, crushed mint leaf and juniper. It’s smooth as silk on the palate with chocolate and cherries, showing plums and coffee grounds on the midpalate.

Desert Wind Winery 2007 Ruah Wahluke Slope, 6,875 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Recommended. The Fries family grows and builds

scene in Hood River, Ore., the blend of Syrah (56%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and Merlot displays high-toned red fruit and oak influence. The combination of raspberry, cranberry, Montmorency cherry and green olives should receive a warm welcome with Tuesday night fare.

this blend of Merlot (48%), Cabernet Sauvignon (36%) and Cabernet Franc. Their production brings an offering of cassis, blueberry, pie cherries, rose petals, cedar and cinnamon with a hint of chocolate truffle and alfalfa. Enjoy with hearty meats, and while there’s a suggestion to drink before 2012, its tannins should allow it to shoulder more time than that.

Cathedral Ridge Winery

E.B. Foote Winery

2007 Rock Star Red

2007 Northwest Duet

Columbia Valley, 147 cases, 14.8% alc., $44

Columbia Valley, 239 cases, 14.3% alc., $18

Recommended. An even split of Syrah and

Recommended. This mix of Cab (55%) and Merlot

Cabernet Sauvignon from their reserve program exudes notes of blueberry, mince meat, stewed plums, crushed herbs and fresh-cut peppers.

— which comes from Milbrandt and Arianses in Mattawa and as well as Graves in the Columbia Gorge — makes for aromas of black cherry, sugared plums, pomegranate and milk chocolate. There’s nice juiciness inside a medium structure with boysenberry and cherry flavors.

Recommended. A tribute to the local windsurfing

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Artist Series Meritage Columbia Valley, 2,200 cases, 14.5% alc., $50

Excellent. The estate Canoe Ridge Vineyard in the

Horse Heaven Hills formed the base of this bottling, which showcases the artwork of Norwegian Eva Isaksen. Inside, the blend of Cabernet

E.B. Foote Winery 2006 Perfect á Trois Wahluke Slopes, 245 cases, 14.9% alc., $18

Outstanding! Milbrandt brothers holdings on the

Climate Controlled Self-Storage rentals with 24-7 access. Dometic “Silent Cellar” wine cabinets for home storage. Unique Wine Accessories and Necessities. Steel Racks, Wood Bins, WineSafe Luggage & Lead-Free Crystal.

306 SE ASH ST. & MLK

503/231-1121 WWW.PORTLANDWINE.COM

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases

Wahluke Slope contribute Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc, which impart aromatics that center on blueberries, backed by sassafras, Graham cracker and citrus oil. Cherries, allspice and chocolate take over on the lip-smacking palate. While it's lighter bodied, there’s a wealth of complexity.

Fraser Vineyard 2008 Randonee Snake River Valley, 250 cases, 14.5% alc., $22

Outstanding! Bill Fraser takes a 50/50 approach to Malbec and Syrah with this, and the fascinating results are worth the five-minute stroll from Broncos Stadium in Boise. Aromas include macerated cherries, plums, cocoa powder, patchuli, eucalyptus and red pepper flakes. They are joined on the lively palate by purple blackberries, smoky Italian herbs, edgy tannins and a scrape orange zest in the finish.

Gifford Hirlinger 2007 Stateline Red

Koenig Vineyards

Nuthatch Cellars

2007 Cabernet-Syrah

2007 Red-breasted Red

Snake River Valley, 242 cases, 14.9% alc., $25

Washington/Oregon, 63 cases, 14.16% alc., $19

Outstanding! An even split of Cabernet

Excellent. It’s easy to overlook the diminutive forest-loving nuthatch, the namesake for this quaint and tiny winery in Corvallis, Ore. This is a blend of Cabernet Franc from Washington’s Coyote Canyon (64%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) and Syrah from Del Rio in Oregon’s Rogue Valley. Marionberry, plum fruit leather, blueberry, lavender, bittersweet chocolate, vanilla and cigar leaf begin to describe the aromas. And it’s a jaunty little drink of more plums, blueberry and blackberry. Well-managed tannins fit well into the finish of Belgian chocolate.

Sauvignon and Syrah carries a whiff of chalkboard dust, black cherries, violets, rose petal, cola, nutmeg and tobacco. On the palate, black cherries and blackberries provide some muscle, with bold plums adding richness and lingering acidity. The finish of green peppercorns and tar bring thoughts of pairing with bruschetta.

Latah Creek Wine Cellars NV Vinosity Washington, 809 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Recommended. Six vineyards went into this lot of

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and 2007 Zinfandel (23%) to go with 2006 Syrah. The equation works out with aromas of plums, pomegranate, chocolate and NECCO wafer, followed by a sturdy palate of black strawberries, raspberries and more pomegranate juice.

Walla Walla Valley, 418 cases, 14.5% alc., $16

Lopez Island Vineyards

Excellent. Mike Berghan’s vineyard near the

2006 Crawford Vineyards Cab-Merlot

Washington/Oregon border shows off in this even blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which is priced to sell and built for early enjoyment with its barrel program of all neutral oak. Hints of cinnamon, dried strawberry, Red Vines licorice, alder smoke and steak juice fill the nose. A rich reward awaits on the palate with cassis, black cherries, brown sugar and raspberries. There’s pleasing length with a tannin structure and finish reminiscent of Swiss Miss cocoa with marshmallows.

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, 14% alc., $23

Hard Road to Hoe Vineyards

2007 Raven Ridge Red

2007 Iron Bed Red Wahluke Slope, 167 cases, 13.8% alc., $28

Excellent. This bordello-themed winery overlook-

ing Lake Chelan ties in Cabernet Franc (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Syrah (10%) from Riverbend Vineyard with a ribbon of Zinfandel from Rosebud Vineyard. The production is lively and balanced with hallmarks of red currants, boysenberries, cordial cherries, pouch tobacco and Baker’s chocolate.

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2008 Cabernet-Merlot Okanagan Valley, 13.8% alc., $17 CDN

Excellent. Last year’s edition produced a

Platinum for Wine Press Northwest, and this multi-layered drink seems headed in the same direction. The nose features Cherry Vanilla Coke, jasmine tea, stewed plums, spearmint and orange rind. There’s more light cherry on the very pleasing flavors on the entry with integrated cedar components, notes of cardamom and milk chocolate. In the finish is this remarkable hint of cherry lime sorbet.

Kathken Vineyards

Recommended. Here’s a lightly structured blend

with lots of strands that tie rather nicely together. Pomegranate, root beer, horehound, green peppercorns, citrus and milk chocolate aromas delve into a quick burst of raspberry flavors with cranberry acidity, edgy tannins and some milk chocolate in the finish.

Martin-Scott Winery Columbia Valley, 241 cases, 15.3% alc. $23

Recommended. Wenatchee Valley winemaker Mike

Scott drove down the Columbia River to Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) and Syrah. Notes of plums, marionberries and pie cherries make for a lighter bodied drink with some bittersweet chocolate. Enjoy with juicy backyard burger.

Red Mountain, 321 cases, 14.7% alc.,

Excellent. It’s not quite technically a Merlot

because of its level with Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), but the typically powerful fruit off this site has been tamed nicely for immediate enjoyment. Raspberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit leather aromas also show nice barrel notes of chocolate and cedar. On the palate, it’s raspberry again leading the way into lingering strawberries. Easy tannins and balance make it easy to drink, finished with some spicy cherries.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 548 cases, 14.1% alc., $55

Recommended. A Merlot-led blend with Cabernet

Sauvignon (39%) and Cabernet Franc (9%) features aromas of strawberry, raspberry, black cherry, chocolate and cedar. There’s boysenberry, white strawberry and leather on the power-laden palate that will benefit with patience, but it can be enjoyed now with duck breast or pork ribs.

Pondera Winery 2006 Consensio Columbia Valley, 110 cases, 14.5% alc., $33

Excellent. Kirkland, Wash., winemaker Shane

2006 Quatrain

Howard leads with Stillwater Creek Vineyard’s Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) to create harmony with Merlot (31%), Sangiovese (9%) and Cab Franc. Notes of strawberries, Bing cherries, root beer, coffee and bittersweet chocolate come together for a smooth and balanced drink.

Okanagan Valley, 1,400 cases, 13% alc., $45 CDN

Outstanding! In our opinion, here is the top

achievement from British Columbia’s showpiece winery. New Zealand native John Simes chooses to lead this four-part harmony with Syrah (41%), Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s massive from start to finish. Telling is the nose of boysenberry, blackberry, Belgian chocolate and green peppercorns. It’s luscious on the palate with more boysenberries, delicious chocolaty tannins and some trailing tar. The age-worthy acidity and tannin structure should allow it to get even better in 2-3 years.

Morrison Lane 2005 33 1/3 Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 125 cases, 15.3% alc., $33.33

Oregon, 200 cases, 13.9% alc., $17

Recommended. Easy to remember, easy to price

Excellent. Kathy and Ken Slusser turned this

and easy to drink is this smoky melding of Rhône varieties Counoise (33%), Syrah (33%) and Viognier (33%). Black currants, black cherries, lilac, chocolate and Padron 3000 cigar aromas waft up. There’s more chocolate and cherries on the lighter-styled palate with blackberry and raspberry acidity with some smoke meaty undertones.

2005 Klipsun Vineyard M

Mission Hill Family Estate

2007 The Remedy Red

melange of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and estate Pinot Noir into an Old World style drink that features blackberry, moist earth, pie cherry, fresh dill and coffee. Well-managed oak, plum jam, hints of white strawberry will accent a variety of foods.

O•S Winery

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Tasawik Vineyard 2006 Estate Hailstorm Red Walla Walla County, 120 cases, 14.5% alc., $36

Recommended. On May 19, 2006, a hailstorm

pounded this vineyard near the Snake River into submission, ultimately claiming 90% of the berries and leaving it a crop of 0.4 ton per acre. The resulting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot makes for a nose of blackberry jam on dark toast, dark chocolate and some fresh-cut asparagus. Black cherries and bittersweet chocolate fill the corners of the mouth, along with sturdy tannins and a long finish of blackberry.

Trio Vintners 2007 Riot Red Columbia Valley, 237 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Excellent. Many of the lots by this Walla Walla

incubator project are tiny, but here’s one of scale. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Sangiovese (53%), Syrah (36%) and Mourvèdre come from Boushey and Den Hoed (Yakima Valley) as well as Birch Creek and Rizzuti (Walla Walla Valley). There’s a broadcast of boysenberry, cherry, slate and orange oil aromas. The palate receives nice creaminess on the entry from more boysenberry and blueberry. Finegrained tannin is washed over in the finish of chocolate and cherries. Serve with seared meats.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Cuvée Rouge Columbia Valley, 920 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Excellent. Larry Lehmbecker’s staff will serve

many glasses of this food-friendly wine at its on-premise bistro overlooking Lake Chelan, and it’s a skillful blend of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Syrah (13%) and Cab Franc from six vineyards — including the Yakima Valley’s up-and-coming Dineen. High-toned red fruit aromas include roasted coffee, tar and porcini mushroom. That Syrah from Weinbau lead into the palate with blackberries, backed by chocolate and more tar and cranberries. Finesse and bright acidity lend this well to tomato-based pasta dishes.

Whites Chardonnay

beginning of this wine with a showy nose, as it’s backed by pear, cotton flannel, olive oil, river rock and apple blossom tones. Pineapple dominates the palate with some marshmallow in the middle. The soft structure and butterscotch finish gets a spark from late acidity.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay

Crayelle Cellars

Excellent. Jason Bull sent out a stylish

2008 Dry Riesling

Chardonnay that doesn’t overwhelm in either direction. Pineapple, starfruit and Lemonhead candy aromas include a light toast and Spanish almonds. Pear syrup and apple juice flavors form some viscosity on the entry, but there’s a slice of starfruit for balance and lemony tartness in the finish.

Davis Creek Cellars 2008 Bitner Vineyard Chardonnay

vineyards for Chardonnay makes for a drink of dusty peach, tangerine and butterscotch. Bartlett pear shows up towards the finish, and lemonade sweetness and acidity achieve balance.

Hogue Cellars 2007 Reserve Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 800 cases, 14.6% alc., $25

bone of this barrel-aged Chardonnay with hints of pear, Gala apple, vanilla and a squeeze of citrus. Suggested fare includes butternut squash, white fish or pork chops and apple sauce.

Black Hills Estate Winery 2008 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 600 cases, 14.1% alc., $30 CDN

Excellent. Light oak allows for an expression of

Asian pear, Granny Smith apple and lemony citrus aromas, that also feature hints of sugar peas, verbena and some nuttiness. Lemon yogurt smoothness loads up the expressive palate, backed by yellow grapefruit acidity and almond butter in the finish.

Claar Cellars 2008 White Bluffs Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 128 cases, 13.6% alc., $19

Excellent. Despite the 10 months in oak, there’s

a wealth of accessible fruit. The mouth-watering nose features fresh-picked gooseberries and apples with lemon peel, backed by butterscotch and banana. There’s more oak on the palate, but also a bag of dried apricots and a spoonful of lemon yogurt. It finishes with green banana and a twist of lemon.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 3,600 cases, 14.2% alc., $25

Recommended. Nice toasty accents are only the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Recommended. One of Washington state’s most talented young winemakers, Craig Mitrakul, is pursuing one of his passions — Riesling — on a personal level. And this debut of his new label is for those seeking serious Riesling. Lemon cream pie, white peach, Asian pear, apple blossom and rosewater aromas dive into bone-dry flavors of more apple and lemon. There’s a bright sheen to acidity and a finish of peach and peach pit.

David Hills Vineyards & Winery

Recommended. One of Idaho’s oldest and best

Recommended. Butterscotch and oak form the back-

clone Chardonnay in French oak and bottle under cork. Dave Paige does neither with these lots from Elton Vineyard (Eola-Amity Hills), Boulder Bluff and Bryan Creek (Chehalem Mountains), which provide notes of apricot, pear and citrus. Firm acidity and lemon zest in the finish lend this to suggestions of crab and lobster or cheese such as Gruyère, manchego or pecorino.

Washington, 71 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

Snake River Valley, 50 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

2008 Chardonnay Excellent. Many in Oregon sequester their Dijon

Prosser, Wash., Evergreen Vineyard near George, Wash., and the estate Horse Heaven Vineyard. Aromas also include sweetened lime, pear, Golden Delicious apple and marzipan. It's a complex mouth-filling blend of more ripe orchard and citrus fruit on the palate, with dried peach and melon in the finish. Enjoy with Asian cuisine or as a refreshing substitute for a gin & tonic.

Willamette Valley, 448 cases, 12.9% alc., $18

Adelsheim Vineyard Willamette Valley, 1,113 cases, 13% alc., $22

WINE REVIEWS

Okanogan Estate & Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay Washington, 294 cases, 13.9% alc., $17

Excellent. Vineyards near the Canadian border

— Blackler, Forrester, Orchard Hills and Reddies — yield aromas of baked apple, starfruit, lime, fresh linen and a hint of oak. It’s undeniably Chardonnay on the palate with an oaky entry that’s creamy and rich with freshsqueezed lemon flavors, blanched almonds and some citrus pith in the finish.

2008 Estate Riesling Willamette Valley, 175 cases, 13.3% alc., $16

Recommended. Its heritage stems from an estate

block planted in 1965, and harvest arrived Oct. 29 for Jason Bull. The offering features grapefruit, tangerine, Honeycrisp apple, a bit of spice and a fascinating finish of Fee Brothers Lemon Bitters to balance the sweetness of 2.1%.

Lopez Island Vineyards 2008 Dry Riesling Yakima Valley, 90 cases, 12% alc., $17

Excellent. Those who shy away from dry-styled

Rieslings should reach out for this, which Brent Charnley left with 0.3% residual sugar. Lemon Laffy Taffy florals are met by gooseberry, freshcut celery and corn, then peaches with dried apricot. The approach to the palate is refreshing and tasty with spritely acidity to lift the peach and apricot flavors.

Pinot Gris Adelsheim Vineyard 2008 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 4,498 cases, 13.8% alc., $19

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards

Excellent. This marks the 25th vintage for

2008 Estate Chardonnay Snake River Valley, 228 cases, 13.2% alc., $17

Excellent. One of Idaho’s calling cards are highacid whites, and here’s a fine example with Chardonnay. Starfruit, citrus, banana and freshcut celery push the smoky oak aromas to the side. Bracing acidity leads the entry to the palate with gooseberry, lime and pear flavors. Hints of water chestnut, citrus pith and a touch of butterscotch in the background should serve this well alongside an order of Kung Pow chicken.

Riesling

founder David Adelsheim, who allows winemaker Dave Paige to source vineyards for this release. They set the table with aromas of a fuzzy peach and apricot, tangerine, lemon juice and Circus Peanut candy. On the attack, it’s pleasantly zingy with more tangerine and lemon juice. The finish of lemon oil bodes well for ceviche, poached halibut or broasted chicken, and this should be available in half bottles at fine restaurants in the Portland area.

Erath Winery 2008 Knight’s Gambit Pinot Gris Dundee Hills, 220 cases, 13.5% alc., $22

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Recommended. While crafted in a reserve style,

2008 Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley, 24,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $24

Excellent. Bob Bertheau and Ernst Loosen gradual-

ly have scaled down both alcohol and sweetness, (now 1.8% residual sugar) over the years. There's a steady thread of minerality through this historic 10th vintage, the product of Viewcrest Ranch in

the fruity notes from these 20-year-old vines still wins out, particularly in the nose of peaches, apricots, honeydew melon, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle and river rock. The French oak and sur lie aging is a bit more apparent on the palate with a hint of butterscotch, but that melon and apricot leads the way. Granny Smith

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recent releases Viognier

apple tartness and lemony acidity linger.

Soléna Estate 2008 Pinot Gris Oregon, 1,507 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Excellent. Laurent Montalieu and his wife, Danielle

Andrus Montalieu, named their family project after their daughter. Their collaboration with Ana (Dundee Hills), Bailey (Chehalem Mountains), Guadalupe (Yamhill-Carlton District) and Del Rio (Rogue Valley) shows off aromas of pear, apple, lemon, figs and sandalwood. The palate is focused on fruit with an attractive blend of tangerine, orange and yellow grapefruit. Serve with grilled oysters or lemon-influenced halibut.

Tinhorn Creek 2008 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 6,221 cases, 13.9% alc., $17 CDN

Recommended. Mouthwatering scents hint at

lemon custard, gooseberry, banana milk shake and corn silk. The drink is of crisp pear and lemon with an explosion of candy apple in the midpalate. Tartness in the finish should serve this well with a plate of Brie and other soft cheeses.

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Black Hills Estate Winery 2008 Alibi Okanagan Valley, 1,240 cases, 13.8% alc., $30 CDN

Excellent. Classically trained chef turned wine-

maker Graham Pierce shows skill with this blend of Sauvignon Blanc (80%) and Semillon, and the marketing department had fun with the packaging of this alternative funky label topped by screwcap. It’s incredibly fruit-forward from the first whiff with peach, apricot, Key lime, grapefruit, honeysuckle and jasmine. Tropical flavors of Juicy Fruit gum are rapidly met with cleansing acidity of lime, with more jasmine and grapefruit in the finish. Enjoy with sautéed seafood.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2008 Viognier Columbia Gorge, 144 cases, 12.9% alc., $20

Recommended. This Hood River, Ore., winery pro-

vides an alternative to Chardonnay with oakinfluenced drink of lemon curd, apricot and creamy butterscotch accents. There’s nice style to it and a noticeable lower alcohol approach that others should follow.

Tasawik Vineyards 2008 Estate Viognier Walla Walla County, 47 cases, 13.9% alc., $22

Recommended. Pleasing complexity lives here

with Lemonhead candy, pear and apple tones, all held in focus by ample acidity before showing some apple peel and Fig Newton toastiness in the finish.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2008 Estate Viognier Snake River Valley, 323 cases, 13% alc., $19

Outstanding! Here’s more testimony as to the future for this Rhône variety in the Snake River Valley. Gary Cunningham’s organic vineyard and stable north of Eagle, Idaho, opens with inviting orange and apple aromas with a hint of smoke and vanilla. There’s remarkable complexity to the drink as the creamy entry turns brisk with Valencia orange and Meyer lemon. That acidity keeps you wanting more, especially with an entree of Idaho trout.

2008 Artz Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

Recommended. This winery in Dundee, Ore.,

sources from Griffin Creek Vineyard for a rewarding drink of tangerine, canned pear and candy corn. Partial barrel fermentation adds a bit of creaminess.

Other whites Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2009 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Marsanne Horse Heaven Hills, 178 cases, 13.8% alc., $28

Excellent. In previous years, Jarrod Boyle dedi-

cated these vines for his Shepherd’s Mark blend. Here, he showcases this lesser-known Rhône in a fruit-forward fashion. First, comes the fetching nose of grapefruit, marshmallow, banana Laffy Taffy, lemon, apples and facial powder. That theme continues on the bright palate in a delicious fashion with nice, zippy acidity. There’s a bit of dried apricot sweetness in the finish, making this a delicious match with light lunch of cottage cheese and a spring salad — or a good candidate to wean someone off white Zin.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2009 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Roussanne Horse Heaven Hills, 202 cases, 13.6% alc., $28

guava, banana, fig, facial powder and Circus Peanuts swirl into mango and citrus flavors. Next comes some citrus pith and Spanish almonds to balance the sweetness.

Columbia Valley, 215 cases, 14.1% alc., $16

Excellent. This young operation on the Oregon side

of the Walla Walla Valley depends upon Elephant Mountain and Willard in the Yakima Valley for this variety, and Andrew Brown made the blend an even split of stainless and neutral oak lots. It’s enticing with starfruit, pear, peach, anise and cotton candy aromas. Gala apple flavors are met by nectarines and citrusy acidity in the midpalate, which shows just a bit of lingering sweetness as it gains complexity with apple peel in the finish.

Pinot Blanc Erath Winery

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2008 Estate Gewürztraminer Willamette Valley, 147 cases, 13% alc., $16

Recommended. A complex nose of Granny Smith apple, grapefruit, gooseberry, peppermint and wet stone funnels into a soft landing of Red Delicious apple and nectarine flavors. There’s a long, rich and round finish focused on ripe banana, yet enough balance of the residual sugar (0.9%) to pair with savory and spicy foods.

2008 Quail Run Pinot Blanc

Hester Creek Estate Winery

Southern Oregon, 170 cases, 14.1 alc., $22

2008 Trebbiano

Recommended. Don and Traute Moore’s expan-

Okanagan Valley, 1,000 cases, 13% alc., $19 CDN

sive site in Talent, Ore., factors into yet vineyard-designate bottling, and this is turned into a reserve style. Peach, pear, nutty caramel apple and smoky tones are found in the structure of this rich and oaky drink. French apple tart and lingering acidity give it lift.

Recommended. As the story goes, Joe Busnardo

Hester Creek Estate Winery

Excellent. Much of Erik Dahle’s program at the

2008 Pinot Blanc

Rogue Valley, 426 cases, 13.6% alc., $20

Recommended. Tropical aromas of passion fruit,

Red Mountain, 177 cases, 13.9% alc., $18

Winemakers Loft in Prosser deals with estate fruit, but not here. Rather refreshing it is to see Sauv Blanc done off-dry (1.4% residual sugar), yet it continues to capture the gooseberry and green apple tones. There are also notes of treeripened peach and lemon/lime citrus. Enjoy for brunch or serve well-chilled on warm spring afternoon.

2008 Pinot Blanc

2008 Viognier

Excellent. Head winemaker John Simes grew up

Tasawik Vineyards

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery

Watermill Winery

Okanagan Valley, 2,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $20 CDN

in New Zealand, so this grape is right up his alley. Estate fruit helps make for aromas of starfruit, quince and blood orange, and the light French oak imparts a fascinating note of a Lay’s potato chip. Starfruit continues onto the palate of pears, pineapple and dried mango. A bit of sur lie aging shows in the middle, but a burst of grapefruity acidity whisks it on through.

cleansing finish of citrusy acidity of lime and grapefruit pith.

used his suitcase to smuggle cuttings from Italy in the late 1960s to bring this variety to British Columbia’s The Golden Mile back. This vintage produced notes of Rainier cherry, peach, Orange Crush, rosewater with a bit of minerality. There’s a pleasing oily approach that yields to a long and lemony finish.

Okanagan Valley, 13.8% alc., $17 CDN

Winter’s Hill Vineyard

Excellent. Some view this as the signature grape

2007 Pinot Blanc

for the Okanagan Valley, and here’s a userfriendly example. Aromatics include nectarine, orange oil and canned corn. The palate expands with peaches and sweet corn, backed by tropical fruit on the midpalate. There’s a sheen of viscosity and sweetness before a

Recommended. The Gladharts devoted their 1.3acre block in Jory soil to this bottling. There’s a harvest of Florida’s Natural orange juice, along with tangerine marmalade, pink grapefruit and celery, finished by intense fresh-squeezed lemon.

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Dundee Hills, 840 cases, 13% alc., $18

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recent releases White blends Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden 2008 Spiral 36 White Table Wine Applegate Valley, 416 cases, 13.4% alc., $18

Excellent. Bill and Barbara Steele sourced Blocks 3

and 6, hence the name, from their certified biodynamic vineyard in Jacksonville, Ore., for this crowd-pleasing Rhône-influenced blend of Viognier (35%), Roussanne (35%) and Marsanne. Restrained use of French oak allows for florals of Asian pear, passionfruit, banana and clean linen. It’s your grandmother’s apple pie — ala mode — on the viscous entry to the palate with gooseberry tartness in the middle. Next is a flurry of toast, vanilla extract and banana in the farewell.

Petit LeVieux Pin 2008 Sigma Blanc Okanagan Valley, 454 cases, 13.5% alc., $21 CDN

Outstanding! Our 2008 B.C. Winery to Watch

keeps on rolling along with a new part of its portfolio. Here, the blend of Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Gewüztraminer and Chardonnay releases huge aromas of gooseberry, Lemonhead candy, candied ginger and pink grapefruit. On the palate, the focus is on the lemony and grapefruity side with approachable acidity. There’s fresh-cut celery on the midpalate, then a lengthy finish of grapefruit pith and peach. Serve with a cheese plate or Asian fare.

Tasawik Vineyards 2008 Studio B White Wine Columbia Valley, 210 cases, 13.8% alc., $16

Recommended. At the Winemaker’s Loft in

Prosser, Eric Dahle and his wife Sara Broetje occupy Studio B — hence the name of this blend that’s Sauvignon Blanc-based (90%). Effusive aromatics from Gewürztraminer (10%) provide lift to this drink of fuzzy peach, Golden Delicious apple and cream soda. Sweet tangerine acidity keeps this moving along.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2008 Roussanne/Viognier Snake River Valley, 197 cases, 13.8% alc., $19

Excellent. The Cunninghams continue to board

horses at their organic estate near Pearl, Idaho, but they aren’t horsing around with their new wine program. This 50/50 blend holds a striking nose of fresh-cut Pink Lady apple, Anjou pear, pineapple, wet stone, banana, Orange Creamsicle and a squirt of lemon. Think of a poached pear laced with honey on the palate, backed by pineapple and lemon in the finish.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2008 Vivacious Reserve White Wine Snake River Valley, 933 cases, 13.8% alc., $17

Recommended. Sawtooth Vineyards yielded this

blend Viognier (62%) and Roussanne, which shows some light oak and a delicate structure. Pear, green apple, raw pumpkin, jicama and gooseberry aromas feature an easy drink of pears and apricot.

Sauvignon Blanc (10%), Chardonnay (10%), Pinot Gris (10%) and Muscat saw just a touch of oak, thereby preserving its veritable fruity-licious profile. Inviting tropical and beautiful pink grapefruit take over the aromas. Grapefruit leads past the lips for a delicious quaffer augmented by canned pineapple, lemon custard and Pink Lady apple. A quick burst of acidity carries into a finish of guava.

Sparkling wine Argyle Winery 2006 Brut Willamette Valley, 6,200 cases, 13.5% alc., $28

Recommended. Knudsen and Lone Star vineyards

made up this blend of Chardonnay (58%) and Pinot Noir that exudes notes of Winesap apple, vanilla bean, toast, lemon zest and a hint of lime. The finish of yeastiness, toast and juicy acidity balances the residual sugar (1.2%) and conjures up thoughts of celebrating a bounty of cracked crab or shrimp.

Argyle Winery 2007 Brut Rosé Dundee Hills, 1,825 cases, 13.5% alc., $45

Excellent. Texan native Rollin Soles kept close tabs

on Knudsen Vineyard for this party-time production from Pinot Meunier (52%) and Pinot Noir. There’s raspberry, cranberry, strawberry and black cherry aromas with a pinch of marjoram in the background. Black cherries and cherry cola flavors dominate, but the sweetness (2.1%) is well-balanced by crisp acidity. Apricot and cherry skin appear in the finish, adding to the complexity.

Camas Prairie Winery NV Sparkling Wine with Raspberry Washington, 20 cases, 12% alc., $17

Outstanding! Idaho vintner Stuart Scott is well into

his third decade of winemaking and he continues to produce fun bubbles with Lemberger off famed Champoux Vineyard. This is not to be confused with his original “Fred,” but rather a second fizzy red to test the market. It offers a rich plummy color in the glass and there’s big raspberry jam aromas with Bing cherry and cranberry notes. Fun and frothy is the drink of raspberry freezer jam and Wildberry Fruit Roll-Ups, and while it’s a touch off-dry (0.08% residual sugar) on the entry, the bubbles and acidity really clean it up. Enjoy with turkey breast or broasted chicken.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Blancs Columbia Valley, 32,640 cases, 11.5% alc., $12

Excellent. This offers up the classic sparkling

wine nose with toasty with cake and yeast notes, backed by peaches and the pit. There’s nice crispness to the mouth feel with refreshing amounts of citrus, followed by center-cut pineapple and Golden Delicious apple. Residual sugar sits at 1.05%.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Noirs Columbia Valley, 20,081 cases, 11% alc., $12

Waterbrook Winery 2008 Melange Blanc Columbia Valley, 4,500 cases, 12.2% alc., $15

Outstanding! An exotic blend of Riesling (30%), Gewürztraminer (20%), Viognier (15%), W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Outstanding! To the eye, this pink might be the most appealing of Rick Casqueiro’s lineup. Give it a nose to find strawberry/rhubarb notes with Rainier cherries, apricots, citrus, a hint of yeast and shaved almond. It’s all of that and more on

WINE REVIEWS

the friendly fizzy palate, accented by cranberry flavors, creamy bubbles and citrusy acidity that extends through to the finish and balances the drop of sugar (1.15%).

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut Columbia Valley, 191,540 cases, 11.5% alc., $12

Outstanding! It’s affordable, easy to find and easy to finish. The bubbles bring out aromas of peaches, pears, caramel apple, light toast and a kernel of fresh pop corn. There’s a cornucopia of fruit on the palate — apple, apricot, nectarine and pear. Notes of toast, lovely acidity, late minerality and lemon zest combine to offset the residual sugar (1.19%). Have some fun and try this with a bowl of popcorn and movie.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Extra Dry Columbia Valley, 25,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $12

Outstanding! The name is a bit of a misnomer since this is the sweetest offering (2.3% residual sugar) from the Northwest’s largest sparkling wine house. Think of aromas of spiced apple, lemon custard and linen that’s fresh out the dryer. Flavors of Fuji apple, pineapple, canteloupe and a slice of Rainier cherry, ushered to the palate by great fizz, make this exceedingly quaffable.

Domaine Ste. Michelle 2003 Luxe Columbia Valley, 1,260 cases, 12% alc., $23

Excellent. Here is the most prized offering from

Domaine Ste. Michelle, essentially first-press lots of Blanc de Blancs that go on to receive as much as 10 months of sur lie aging in barrel, then another five years in the bottle. While the nose provides light toast and coconut, there’s plenty of Fuji apple, lemon zest and mint leaf, too. The oak is more apparent on the palate, with a background of orchard fruit, nice frothiness and a dab of delicious almond paste in the finish.

Moonlight Cellars NV Café Metropole Blanc de Blanc Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 12% alc., $20

Recommended. Allan Pangborn helped launch

Domaine Ste. Michelle in the 1980s, and he later created his own small house of bubbles in Kennewick, Wash. The nose of 100% Chardonnay is effusive with notes of angel food cake, orange peel, Golden Delicious apple, pear butter and four years on the yeast shows. Maturity shows on the palate with baked apple and smokey tones, followed by citrusy acidity. It rests at the brut level of 1% residual sugar.

Pacific Rim Winery NV White Flowers Sparkling Riesling Washington, 11.5% alc., $14

Recommended. It makes perfect sense for this

remarkable Riesling house to send out bubbles derived from its Selenium Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The nose is fascinating with accents of pineapple upside-down cake, French vanilla ice cream, peach and its pit, hints of petrol and minerality. After a toasty entry, Yakima Valley apples and peaches pop out on the palate in a frothy and creamy structure, finished with nice zesty acidity.

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recent releases

Ste. Chapelle

Erath Winery

NV Brut

2008 Sweet Harvest Gewürztraminer

Snake River Valley, 3,021 cases, 12% alc., $8

Willamette Valley, 100 cases, 8% alc., $35

Excellent. Here’s another fun wine via Idaho’s

Excellent. Shafer Vineyard in Forest Grove, Ore., delivered all the fruit for this seductively sweet drink. There’s a bit of shyness in the nose before baked apple, yellow grapefruit, lime, minerality, linen and alder smoke arrive. Honeydew melon, more grapefruit, apple butter and Bartlett pear spill out on the tongue. Jasmine, lime, honeysuckle, anise and citrus pith add balance and complexity to the sweet finish (17% residual sugar). Only available at the winery.

largest winery. Gala apple, Asian pear, pineapple, jicama and white cake aromas lead into a delicious drink of pear juice and fresh-cut Golden Delicious apples. It’s a crowd pleaser with a Sunday brunch approach to the structure.

Rosés Cathedral Ridge Winery 2008 Rosé Columbia Valley, 297 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Erath Winery

Recommended. A throwback of sorts, this base of

Dundee Hills, 100 cases, 8% alc., $35

Riesling is turned pink by red wine aged in neutral oak, which explains its almost apricot wardrobe. The theme is delicious and off-dry (1.8% residual sugar), featuring strawberry, pineapple, peach and canteloupe. Some candied apple and citrus notes add to the party.

LeVieux Pin 2008 Viola Pinot Noir Rosé

2008 Sweet Harvest Pinot Blanc Excellent. A late vintage prompted persistent thin-

ning at Niederberger Vineyard, hence the reduced lot. Dried apricots, honeysuckle, gooseberry, lime and starfruit aromas. The drink is luscious and beautiful with tree-ripe peaches, pineapple and guava juice. Mouthwatering acidity balances the residual sugar of 19%. It’s only available at the winery.

Okanagan Valley, 509 cases, 13.8% alc., $25 CDN

Northwest Totem Cellars

Recommended. Hints of a dusty rose include cran-

2007 Elerding Vineyard Late Harvest Viognier

berry, rhubarb and orange zest in the aromas. The palate focuses on cranberries, rhubarb and Granny Smith apples with some crushed leaf accents that will serve it well with smoke ribs, a pulled pork sandwich or a ham sandwich.

Tasawik Vineyards 2008 Estate Rosé Walla Walla County, 152 cases, 14.8% alc., $17

Recommended. A growing number of pinks start

with Sangiovese, and that influence shows in this nose of strawberry and watermelon, backed by apricot, peach and cranberry. It’s a sweeter style at 1.6% residual sugar, loaded with strawberry rhubarb jam with just enough acidity. Chill this and serve with brunch or to those who need to break away from white Zin.

Waterbrook Winery 2009 Sangiovese Rosé Columbia Valley, 550 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Recommended. The Oasis Vineyard near Benton

City, Wash., long has served as the source for this dry pink that’s big on strawberry freezer jam, Cherry Vanilla Coke and cherry blossom aromas. Food-friendly tartness dominates the drink of Rainier cherries and yellow grapefruit. Memo to the Precept Brands folks: Please bring back the fun bowling pin bottle!

Dessert wines Davis Creek Cellars 2008 Up A Creek! Skyline Vineyards Late Harvest Syrah Snake River Valley, 100 cases, 15.9% alc., $17

Recommended. Gina Davis spent a lot of time in

this vineyard during her days as assistant winemaker for Sawtooth Winery. Her personality shows with this offering of blueberries and chocolate covered cherries with notes of teriyaki, bell pepper and cigar leaf tobacco. Its finish of chocolate tart stays in line with his not-toosweet structure with 3% residual sugar.

Yakima Valley, 310 cases, 11% alc., $28

Excellent. Each year, Mike Sharadin makes this bottling stand out in the Northwest, but he first attracted attention just by choosing to work with this Rhône variety. Beautiful aromas of apricot, orange sherbert and peach include a drizzle of honey. Apricot and peach make for a mouth-filling and delicious structure. There’s syrup (14.5% residual sugar) and caramel near the finish of this wine, which is capped by some citrus pith. And he’s one of few in the region to seal with the glass cork.

Silver Lake Winery 2008 Roza Hills Vineyard Late Harvest Reserve Riesling Rattlesnake Hills, 712 cases, 11.5% alc., $19

Outstanding! One wonders if William Ammons is part Canadian because this late-harvest carries a richness typically only found in B.C. ice wine. The nose is unmistakably dessert, topped with apricots, peach, orange and honey. Those components make a delicious delivery to the tongue, joined by honeydew melon, lasting viscosity, ample acidity and lingering pineapple.

Silver Lake Winery 2008 Roza Hills Vineyard Late Harvest Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Rattlesnake Hills, 741 cases, 10.7% alc., $19

Recommended. The aromas are fascinating with

apricot, banana, citrus, corn meal and dandelion honey, and the approach is smooth and delicious with apricots up front, followed by orange oil, lime, honey and a hint of smokiness. Lingering sweetness (11% residual sugar) is finished by a piece of apricot skin.

Tinhorn Creek 2008 Late Harvest Kerner Okanagan Valley, 900 cases, 13.4% alc., $13 CDN

Recommended. One of the perennial bargains in

the Okanagan Valley are Sandra Oldfield’s stick-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 1 0

ies made from this cross by Riesling and Trollinger. This vintage features tones of apricot, Christmas cake, peaches, allspice, a mint gumdrop and green apple. Enjoy this on its own or serve with pungent cheeses or spicy sausage.

Ice wine Claar Cellars 2008 White Bluffs Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine Columbia Valley, 87 cases, 10% alc., $40

Excellent. A labor of love, estate fruit came in

before sunrise and at 12 degrees Fahrenheit. It allowed Bruno Corneaux to press out aromas of lychee, orange oil, honey, almond and hints of botrytis. The viscous drink is reminiscent of apricot syrup under sponge cake with pineapples and tangerine acidity, finished with some Spanish almonds and more honey. Residual sugar is 23%.

Koenig Vineyards 2008 Riesling Ice Wine Snake River Valley, 384 cases, 11% alc., $20

Excellent. Greg Koenig seems somewhat bashful

as how well-received this sticky is received. Here’s an ideal style for those who don’t embrace the syrupy structure of many ice wines. His Dec. 21 harvest allowed him to capture the quintessential dessert nose with honeysuckle, apricot, dried mango, pineapple, orange oil and flan. Think of apricot nectar flavors with peach, more honey, baked apple and cinnamon. Late acidity from orange and lime balances the residual sugar of 22%.

Port-style Kathken Vineyards NV Jolie’s Juice American Port-style Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 290 cases, 19% alc., $25

Recommended. Port-style wines from this persnick-

ety grape are gaining fans, and this small operation in Salem, Ore., make its dangerously easy to drink. The nose is a tempting one of cedar, boysenberry, strawberry, watermelon and toasted filberts. It’s so loaded with strawberry, black cherry and toffee flavors that the alcohol is disguised. A hint of eucalyptus only adds complexity.

Knipprath Cellars NV La V! Merlot with Vanilla Beans Yakima Valley, 300 cases, 20% alc., $24

Excellent. This longtime Spokane winery has a well-earned reputation for its fortified wines, and there’s truth in advertising on this label. Scents feature a Heath bar and a freshly scraped vanilla pod, and the drink is akin to a chocolate Tootsie Pop and vanilla extract. In the background are raisins dusted with cocoa powder, and the alcohol is deliciously balanced. Enjoy with a warm and moist brownie. Half-bottles go for $15.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2006 Late Bottled Vintage Port Rogue Valley, 135 cases, 19% alc., $50

Recommended. Syrah produces some tasty Portstyle wines in the Northwest, and here’s another example. It’s a wonderful sipper with smooth black cherries, dried plums and milk chocolate capped by toasted walnut. The addition of 150proof brandy, derived from the winery’s own Pinot Noir, halted fermentation at 12% residual sugar. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Bitner Vineyards 2008 Reserve Riesling Snake River Valley, 135 cases, 12.6% alc., $12

Excellent. Ron Bitner has been growing

Riesling in Idaho for years. He now sets aside some for his two tasting rooms, and winemaker Greg Koenig continues to make it a delicious partnership. Apple sauce, pineapple, yellow grapefruit and jasmine aromas and flavors are met with endearing sweetness (2%). There’s continue development of complexity with a trailing of dried mango, cloves, lime pith, peach pit and more jasmine in the finish.

Buried Cane 2007 Chardonnay Washington, 2,564 cases, 14.5% alc., $14

Recommended. Dusty pear, pineapple, chalk-

board dust, fresh corn on the cob and cooked banana aromas delve into bold flavors of citrus, gooseberry and Gala apples, finished by some apple skin and citrus pith.

Buried Cane

grip? Market research and this fruit-forward wine indicate otherwise. Pear, pineapple, lemon and apricot aromas are backed by smoky oak, butterscotch, fresh linen and bay rum tones. It's full-on pear and juice pineapple on the entry with some apple peel, late butterscotch and citrus pith bitterness. Consider serving with crab, ginger-influenced salmon or scallops. 2008 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, 20,000 cases, 13% alc., $15

Outstanding! Ste. Michelle’s white winemaker, Wendy Stuckey, came from Down Under and her influence shows with this marvelous example. Classic gooseberry aromas are joined by limes, pineapple, apricot and a whiff of toast in the background, a hint at the 21% barrel fermentation. On the palate is finesse with more gooseberry and juicy Granny Smith apple as it exhibits delicious tartness, finished by a trail of apricot, peach and lemon/lime. Enjoy with steamed mussels or a side dish featuring goat cheese.

Claar Cellars

Washington, 2,553 cases, 13.4% alc., $14

2008 White Bluffs Sauvignon Blanc

Excellent. Aussie winemaker Larry Cherubino

Columbia Valley, 280 cases, 13.3% alc., $13

turns Washington fruit into a delicious drink that’s just a touch off-dry (1.2% residual sugar). There’s a bidding of fresh Granny Smith apples, Jolly Rancher apple candy and pears, and the acceptance in the mouth shows off Golden Delicious apple, mango and papaya. It broadens out across the palate with nice nuttiness in the finish. Enjoy this as a bridge between cocktail and dinner or serve with white fish.

Excellent. This family farm-to-bottle operation

Caterina Winery 2008 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13.5% alc., $12

Excellent. Preston Vineyards in Pasco, Wash.,

gave this Spokane winery components to produce approachable aromas of starfruit, bright pear, green apple, hints of oak and fresh corn on the cob. Pears and apples continue in a nice crispness on the palate, where lemony acidity gives it length into a steely finish.

Caterina Winery 2008 Willard Family Vineyard Viognier Yakima Valley, 300 cases, 13.4% alc., $15

continues its success with this grape, and it’s true to the variety with gooseberry aromas backed by river rock, dried apricot, apple peel and Texas pink grapefruit. There’s a steely approach on the palate, joined by Granny Smith apple and grapefruit. Enjoy with Kung Pow chicken.

Claar Cellars 2008 White Bluffs Riesling Columbia Valley, 950 cases, 12% alc., $13

Recommended. There’s a remarkable diver-

Recommended. Asian pear and Golden

Delicious apple tones show up alongside the oak, butterscotch, beeswax and fascinating minerality from the sometimes wind-blown Horse Heaven Hills. Sugared yellow grapefruit and a squeeze of lemon extend the finish.

Columbia Crest 2006 Two Vines Chardonnay Washington, 161,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Recommended. Apple butter, pineapple,

banana custard, chalkboard dust and lanolin aromas set up a creamy and juicy palate, where there’s more pineapple and banana with a hint of peppermint candy cane in the finish. It’s built to drink now and will serve as a cheery welcome home from the office.

Columbia Crest 2008 Two Vines Gewürztraminer Washington, 18,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $8

Excellent. There’s a lot of personality in this

Alsatian expression, beginning with classic grapefruit, jasmine and lychee aromas, spiced up by peaches, chopped almond and ginger root. Think of juicy Bartlett pear and Freestone peach flavors, an appealing dose of residual sugar (2.9%) and lingering acidity for delicious balance. 2008 Two Vines Riesling Washington, 33,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $8

Outstanding! Ste. Michelle Wine Estates

Columbia Crest 2008 Grand Estates Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 200,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $11

Excellent. Harvest for this release began Sept.

this price point, and the absence of oak adds to its personality. The nose winks at notes of clementines, papaya, white peach, starfruit and alyssum. There’s more orchard fruit than tropical on the easy-drinking palate with Granny Smith apple, pears and lemon meringue pie, capped by good crispness.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Columbia Crest

2006 Chardonnay

2008 Grand Estates Pinot Grigio

Columbia Valley, 521,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Columbia Valley, 23,000 cases, 12.5% alc. $11

Excellent. Who says Chardonnay is losing its

Excellent. Understandably, this grape is gaining

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2008 H3 Chardonnay

Columbia Crest

gence between serious aromas and fun flavors here. First comes hints of gooseberry, apple juice, river rock and honeysuckle, followed by a mouthful of Juicy Fruit gum that’s perked up with peaches, apples and citrusy acidity to balance the residual sugar (3%).

17, and 70 percent of the juice spent nine months in barrel. That explains the reservestyle toasty oak and butterscotch elegance in the nose, backed by coconut, papaya and citrus fruit. Think of Granny Smith apple pie with its spice, baked crust and sweetness on the palate, and there’s even the lengthy mouth feel of pie filling in the finish, along with some butterscotch.

Excellent. It’s rare to see this Rhône white at

Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills, 37,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2007 Riesling

more attention in the state. Starfruit, peach, pineapple, lime, St. Joseph’s aspirin and lamb's wool aromas funnel into an easy drink of yellow grapefruit and fresh lemon juice with minerality and gooseberry to finish it dry.

knows this grape as well as anyone in the world, and Keith Kenison can stand this hock bottle alongside anyone else in the company. A first invitation from jasmine is followed by pears, apples, white peach, talcum powder, petrol and citrus aromas. The drink is a real quaffer, reminiscent of biting a sweet Pink Lady apple, joined by peach, banana and then tangerine acidity to balance the 3.4% residual sugar. Lychee resides in the midpalate, and there’s a lingering finish of apricot.

Columbia Crest 2008 Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine Washington, 35,000 cases, 13.0% alc., $8

Outstanding! Consumers seem to be gravitat-

ing to proprietary blends, and there’s no reason to stay away from this jubilant and unpretentious wine. Chardonnay (40%), Sauvignon Blanc (34%) and Semillon (11%)

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form the base, which opens with perfumy notes of Golden Delicious apples, tangerine, nectarine, orange peel and cotton candy. It’s a seamless drink with tremendous mouthfeel from more of those peaches and oranges. A squeeze of lemon sparks it up at the finish and balances the 1.2% residual sugar. Enjoy with mixed greens or pasta salad.

Cooper Mountain Vineyards 2008 Reserve Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 400 cases, 13% alc., $15

Excellent. The Gross family planted the vines

for this wine starting in 1978, and while one would traditionally expect lots of oak from a “reserve” Chardonnay, Gilles De Domingo allows the fruit to sing. Notes of cut lemon, Golden Delicious apple, jicama, slate and pillow mints are joined by gardenia. No malolactic fermentation makes it zippy, spilling out tasty lime and gooseberry. It should marry well with ceviche or halibut and chips.

Coyote Canyon Winery 2008 Estate Viognier Horse Heaven Hills, 385 cases, 13.9% alc., $15

Excellent. At 1,100 acres, the Andrews family

tends one of the largest vineyards in the Northwest, and this is among the 25 varieties it farms. Aromas of yellow grapefruit, orange Creamsicle, pear, lemon and a touch of butterscotch transition into a lively entry of pear, lemon and lime flavors. It’s loaded front to back with acidity, finished with Mandarin orange and some citrus pith.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery NV Farmhouse White Table Wine Oregon/Washington, 12.86% alc., 1,110 cases, $10

Recommended. An eclectic blend of Semillon

(61%), Sylvaner (12%), Chardonnay (9%), Gewürztraminer (8%), Pinot Gris (8%) and Pinot Blanc makes for a fun production of Golden Delicious apple, Asian pear, starfruit, petrol and sweetened lemon that’s left off-dry at 2% residual sugar.

Duck Pond Cellars 2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Chardonnay Wahluke Slope, 9,100 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Recommended. There’s enjoyable complexity to

this drink of dried pineapple, citrus, starfruit and peach. Subtle oak imparts hints of Corn Pops cereal, and the sur lie aging makes for nice creaminess on the palate. Balance comes from zingy orange acidity and minerality, finished by a bit of grapefruit pith.

Duck Pond Cellars 2008 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 10,951 cases, 13.5% alc., $12

Excellent. Estate vineyards in Salem, Ore., pri-

marily the family’s St. Jory site, make for an exemplary Pinot Gris that leads with aromas

of starfruit, lime, orange, apple, banana and candy corn. A big burst of lime champions the flavors, giving this enjoyable dryness that should play well with a shrimp salad.

Koenig Vineyards

Dusted Valley Vintners

Williamson and Bitner — within view of this winery creates aromatics are centered on glazed lemon pound cake and quinine. It is filled with fascinating flavors and loaded with tasty acidity to balance the 1.8% residual sugar. Pineapple and cling peaches make for a velvety entry. Pink grapefruit wades in, finished by minerality and lemon/lime.

2008 Boomtown Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Recommended. A crack of the cap on this crisp

drink off the Milbrandt brothers’ Evergreen and Ancient Lakes vineyards brings tones of apricot, banana nut bread, ginger and spearmint with a trail of lemon oil and a frosty glass of an Arnold Palmer.

Erath Winery 2007 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley, 1,200 cases, 12.7% alc., $15

Excellent. Fruit-forward all the way is the style

with this screwcap release, and one of Oregon’s largest for the oft-unappreciated variety. Prince Hill, Fuqua and Niederberger vineyards help Gary Horner bring out aromas of tangerine, gooseberry, canned pear, apple and lemon. Pear and nectarine flavors have good staying power on the palate, and lemony acidity arrives in a constant stream. Enjoy with a green salad topped with toasted sunflower seeds.

Erath Winery 2008 Pinot Gris Oregon, 41,500 cases, 13% alc., $15

2008 Sunny Slope Cuvée Riesling Snake River Valley, 300 cases, 13.2% alc., $12

Excellent. A blend of two vineyards —

Koenig Vineyards 2008 Williamson Vineyard Viognier Snake River Valley, 411 cases, 13.2% alc., $15

Outstanding! While Riesling remains the backbone of the Idaho wine industry, many foresee this Rhône variety as the state’s most distinctive white. Greg Koenig provides beautiful evidence for that argument, starting with tropical aromas backed by tangerine and peaches with the pit. It’s very peachy on the palate with more nectarines, canteloupe and passion fruit. Pleasant acidity, sweet fruit and balanced alcohol make this both a quaffer and an accompaniment to scallops.

Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2007 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Washington, 764 cases, 12% alc., $12

Recommended. It’s almost unheard of to see

the Umpqua Valley, go into Gary Horner’s “no wood, no malolactic” large-scale screwcap bottling. Fruit and blossoms of apple and pear trees, fresh linen and banana aromas set the table for a lively entry of more pear and starfruit. Sweet tropical notes are next, then a farewell of apple and lemon pith.

vineyard-designated wines at this price, particularly from such a highly regarded Chardonnay source in the Columbia Valley. A light barrel program allows for sweet lemons, pineapple and Golden Delicious apple aromas. The entry is exotic and hedonistic with more apple, banana and lemon custard flavors, balanced by remarkable tartness that targets your cheeks.

Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery

Latah Creek Wine Cellars

2008 The Census Count Chardonnay

NV Huckleberry de Latah

Okanagan Valley, 3,200 cases, 13.5% alc., $13 CDN

Washington, 8,500 cases, 10.5% alc., $10

Excellent. Mission Hill’s expanding second

Excellent. Much of the production at this two-

label project produces wines built to drink now and priced to fly. This oaked Chardonnay pays homage to the annual Christmas Day bird count in the Okanagan Valley. Orchard fruit of pear and white peach aromas meld with hints of canned corn. Pleasing is the drink of ripe nectarine and canned cling peaches, framed by nice acidity and some cinnamon bark. Suggested fare includes roasted chicken and creamy pasta.

generation winery along Interstate 90 in Spokane is devoted to this bottling, which has Riesling at its base. In the glass, it takes on the appearance of a rosé, and the drink — despite its 2.5% residual sugar — shows better balance than most blushes. It’s indeed huckleberry, but there also are tones of strawberries, blueberry and plums with some nice citrusy tartness. Springtime is coming.

Kathken Vineyards

Latah Creek Wine Cellars

2008 Pinot Gris

2008 Muscat Canelli

Willamette Valley, 700 cases, 13.8% alc., $14

Washington, 782 cases, 10.5% alc., $11

Recommended. Estate fruit from the Eola-Amity

Outstanding! A case can be made that no other Northwest winery has done so well with this grape for so long as Mike Conway’s family operation. Fruit from Phil Church Vineyards on the Wahluke Slope produced aromas of

Excellent. Eight vineyards, including Melrose in

Hills near Salem makes for aromas of gooseberry, limeade and fresh-cut celery. Those tart components, along with green apples and orange, make for bright drink.

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pink grapefruit, gooseberry, lychee, rosewater, apricot, pear and freshly laundered linen. It’s a fun, clean and refreshing drink of more Ruby Red grapefruit, peaches, pears and jasmine with lively acidity to balance the residual sugar (4%). Enjoy this with Sunday brunch.

Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2008 Moscato d’ Latah Washington, 392 cases, 6% alc., $15

Lone Canary Winery

Silver Lake Winery

2008 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 629 cases, 13% alc., $10

2008 Roza Hills Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay

Recommended. Spokane winemaker Mike Scott

Rattlesnake Hills, 1,497 cases, 13.9% alc., $11

relies on Milbrandt’s Northridge Vineyard for this highly aromatic bottling that features gooseberry and lychee tones, backed by pear, citrus and petrol. Serve this up with extrameaty crab cakes.

Recommended. Not much oak was held back

Excellent. The Conway family relied on Phil Church Vineyards on the Wahluke Slope for this dessert-style approach to Muscat Canelli. There’s bushel of peaches, apricot and apple aromas with underlying minerality, lychee and jasmine. Passion fruit, more peaches and honey-topped pear flavors dominate. It’s a low-alcohol sweetie at 10% residual sugar, but there’s some lime acidity to balance. The bottling at 38 degrees preserved a touch of effervescence. Serve alongside crepes with berries or peach preserves.

Lone Canary Winery

Latah Creek Wine Cellars

Martin-Scott Winery

2007 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

from this bottling of toast, vanilla, butterscotch pudding, lemon and starfruit. You’ll find a lot of oak on the entry, too, backed by pear and lemon with an oily midpalate and lengthy finish of acidity.

Snoqualmie Vineyards

Yakima Valley, 75 cases, 11% alc., $15

2008 Chardonnay

Recommended. Mike Scott enjoys turning this

white Bordeaux grape into both dry and dessert drinks. Willard Family Vineyard near Prosser, Wash., is his dessert site, and the Dec. 15 harvest made for a wine featuring lots of apricots and honey, some canned gooseberries, and a bite of nut-encrusted caramel apple. A late burst of acidity helps balance the residual sugar of 12%.

Columbia Valley, 23,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

Excellent. Hints of peach, pineapple, citrus and

anise within the aromas don’t disappoint in this offering that includes Viognier (6%). Peach leads the tasty profile of this softerstyled Chard that also offers up pears, French vanilla ice cream and sweet lemon. Suggested fare includes crab cakes and grilled white fish with a mango salsa.

2008 Appleblock Vineyard Riesling

Snoqualmie Vineyards

Washington, 168 cases, 12% alc., $15

Columbia Valley, 125 cases, 11.1% alc., $12

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

Excellent. The third vintage of this

Excellent. Mike Scott didn’t upset his apple cart

Columbia Valley, 28,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

for this production, but it opens with aromas of Golden Delicious apple, grange blossoms and freshly baked lemon tart. A touch off-dry is the drink of Orange Slice candy but following flavors of fresh-squeezed lemonade and grapefruit create lip-smacking acidity. Try with Grilled Mexican Lime Chicken or Mexican Lime Soup.

Recommended. Joy Andersen took all the fruit

2006 Natalie’s Nectar Sweet Syrah

father/daughter collaboration in Spokane, its inspiration comes from the Recioto dessert wines of northern Italy. In this instance, finished wine is blended with unfermented juice, and the aromas hint at a bowl of Cocoa Puffs cereal, as well as cordial cherry, vanilla extract and bacon. The drink is bold yet charming with flavors of strawberry jam and blackberries with a bite of the seed for tannin. The Conways left its sugar at 10%, so try this with strawberry cheesecake.

Martin-Scott Winery 2008 Needlerock Vineyard Pinot Grigio

Waterbrook Winery

Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 11.8% alc., $14

2008 Pinot Gris

Latah Creek Wine Cellars

Recommended. Honeydew melon, Fuji apple

2008 Riesling

and fresh-cut sugar cane tones off dominate this appealing slightly off-dry drink off their East Wenatchee estate that’s reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. There’s a nice incorporation of grapefruity acidity.

Washington, 1,116 cases, 10.5% alc., $9

Excellent. The Conways have been making

deliciously affordable, low-alcohol Riesling in the Spokane Valley for more than 20 years. Here it’s from Hyatt Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills and Familigia Vineyards near George, Wash. Mouthwatering are the aromas of blood orange, tangelo, pineapple, lychee and honey. Its zesty palate prompted us to write “delicious” twice, featuring more of those citrus flavors with some Red Delicious apple, peach and jasmine. Residual sugar is 2.5%.

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2008 Chardonnay Idaho, 675 cases, 13.9% alc., $15

apple, starfruit and pineapple aromas transition into more apple and Asian pear flavors with lingering acidity and some apple peel on the finish.

Silver Lake Winery

2008 Pinot Grigio

2008 Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 365 cases, 13% alc., $13

Rattlesnake Hills, 3,000 cases, 13% alc., $9

Recommended. This Spokane, Wash., winery

Excellent. William Ammons crafted this in a fruitforward fashion with aromas of melon, apple, pear, grapefruit and gooseberry, backed by river rock and Circus Peanut candy. Citrus dominates the lively palate, starting with sections of orange and tangerine, turning to zesty lemon and pith in the back end.

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Columbia Valley, 2,000 cases, 13% alc., $13

Recommended. Willow Crest Vineyard in the

Yakima Valley now serves as an estate source for this expanding operation in Walla Walla, and no oak gets in the way of this fruit that features entry points of apple cider, orange juice, wet stone, jasmine and lime yogurt.

Whitman Cellars

Recommended. Bosc pear, Golden Delicious

Lone Canary

turns to Pontin Vineyards in the Yakima Valley for this release of inviting tangerine, pineapple, riverbank pebble, jicama and honey aromas that result in tangy and tart flavors. Bright, almost spritzy, acidity and a dry finish combine to make this great with seafood.

on Sept. 16 for this 100% offering, and she stayed true to the grape, starting with the nose of gooseberry, apple and wet stone. Indeed, the tongue gets “goosed up,” but there’s some sweet Jonagold apple in the background with some citrus in the finish. Suggested fare includes fettuccine Alfredo, smoked salmon and panini.

2008 Riesling Columbia Valley, 420 cases, 12.5% alc., $14

Excellent. It’s difficult to believe this is the first

Riesling that Steve Lessard has made for this locally-owned Walla Walla winery. He captured much of the variety’s character by using grapes from Bonair and Burgess vineyard, showcasing aromas of apricot, Asian pear, lime, minerality, jasmine and a hint of petrol. On the palate, it’s akin to biting into Fuji apple, but there’s also a continuation of peaches and apricots. The juicy and flavorful drink features mouthwatering grapefruit acidity from start to finish. And the residual sugar rests at less than 1%.

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vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

Proving Crest is best

ail Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon! Worldwide fame came to Ray Einberger, head winemaker at Columbia Crest via his Blackberry while driving through a blizzard on Snoqualmie Pass in November. He looked briefly at the phone to see what the message said but didn’t believe it. “It said the 2005 Cab had been named the best wine in the world for 2009.” Wine Spectator had just come out with its top 100 wines of the world, and there at the top was “Sugar” Ray’s baby, the Columbia Crest’s 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. He ignored it, thinking someone at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in Woodinville was pulling his leg. When he pulled over at a garage in Ellensburg to look at a possible problem with his vehicle, he had time to really examine his cell message. “There were 170 e-mails by that time, all congratulating me on having the world’s best wine,” a beaming Einberger told me in February. Einberger sees the award not just as a boon for him and his winemaking team at the Northwest’s largest winery but also as proof that Washington is making world-class Cab. “We have a long-standing reputation of producing some of the finest Merlots in the world,” Einberger said. “Now we can say we can produce some of the finest Cabs in the world. I’ve been told by other Northwest wine makers that our award has boosted notice of their Cabernet Sauvignons.” Einberger joined Columbia Crest in 1993. When he became head winemaker in 2002, production was about 2 million cases and the winery was known for top-quality wines at value prices. Einberger wanted to continue this tradition while also elevating the reserve program, which was quite a leap for a winery first known for making generic whites and rosés. Einberger came from California with experience on reserve wines at Opus One, a red wine collaboration of Robert Mondavi and Chateau Mouton Rothschild of Bordeaux. What impressed him the most about Washington was the expressive fruitiness of the grapes. Einberger’s team at Columbia Crest — Keith Kenison, white winemaker, and Juan Muñoz-Oca, red winemaker — and the rest of his staff have also bought into the reserve program. The reserve wines are made in small lots, sort of a boutique winery inside of the mammoth Columbia Crest facility in Paterson, Wash. As important as the reserve program is, Columbia Crest will not abandon its heritage of making widely distributed excellent wines. This Vintage Musing, however, is concentrating on those delicious, captivating reserves. First, we look at three reserves from the 2001 vintage, considered an excellent year. 98

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2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Still youthful and elegant. Toasted oak, dark chocolate with robust berry flavors. 2001 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley: Dusty leather aromas yield to blueberry flavors with good length left. 2001 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley: Bright raspberry beginning, smooth, tasty with a lots of charm. On to the current releases. 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $36: Einberger thinks this is every bit as good as the now-storied 2005. Rated “Outstanding!” by Wine Press Northwest, it has a lot of wow! Tobacco leaf beginning along with velvety chocolate. Tasty smooth dark berry flavors, licorice and great depth. 4,000 cases. 2006 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22: Fruit forward, blackberries mostly, with a bit of spice. A powerful, yet smooth wine. 3,000 cases. 2006 Walter Clore Private Reserve, Columbia Valley, $36: Wisp of oak aromas yields to chocolate and a hint of coconut. Currants, berries and crushed walnuts accent the harmonious flavors. 5,000 cases. 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $20: Big, balanced oak, butterscotch, tropical fruit and crisp apple components. 500 cases. 2006 Wautoma Springs Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $35: An elegant cab that has fruity chocolate cherry

components with an expressive finish. 300 cases. 2006 Four Feathers Block 08 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35:

“It’s the best Merlot I’ve made,” Einberger says. Very smooth and seductive, offering gobs of blackberries and licorice aromas and flavors. 300 cases. 2006 Reserve Tempranillo, Wahluke Slope, $35: This rising Spanish variety is deep, dark and delicious with earthy notes and black pepper and ripe plum flavors. 200 cases. 2006 Stone Tree Vineyard Reserve Zinfandel Reserve, Columbia Valley, $35: Jammy Zinfandel grapes from the Wahluke Slope,

with a touch of Primitivo and Petite Sirah, make a classic. Leather, raspberries and dark chocolate abound. 300 cases. 2008 H3 Pinot Gris, Horse Heaven Hills, $15: One of the best Washington Pinot Gris I’ve tasted. Pears, green apple and mangos along with chilled citrus make a very seafood-friendly crisp white wine. 200 cases. 2007 Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley, $13: The flagship Columbia Crest red with 250,000 cases produced. Aromas of exotic spices set you up for a smooth, rich berry palate. 2008 Two Vines Vineyard 10 White, Washington, $8: A tasty, rich, crisp kitchen sink blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and several other aromatic varieties. Think fresh peaches and orchard grass aromas with peach and melon flavors. 35,000 cases. BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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