Wine Press Northwest Spring 2011

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 14, No. 1

N O R T H W E S T

FEATURES

26 Zerba Cellars Our 2011 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year has earned its stripes.

30 Regional Wineries of the Year Discover which wineries in Oregon, Washington, Idaho and British Columbia have won awards this year.

44 Pinot Noir Judging We blind-taste 170 Pinot Noirs from Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and Idaho.

62 Tagaris Winery and Taverna Tagaris Winery’s Team Frank in the Tri-Cities tempts your taste buds with these pairings.

Spring 2011 DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose A tale of two wines

8 A Distant Perspective Don’t put all your Pinot in one basket

10 Northwest Edge Wine country comes to the big city

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Verticals show how wines age

14 Urban Sips Keep the tassels twirling

14 Blogger Washington Syrah: star or FUBAR?

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10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Nom de Vine Recent Releases Vintage Musings Elk Cove more than great Pinot

COVER STORY On the cover: Doug Nierman makes wine at Zerba Cellars.

Story begins on page 26.

This page: Illahe Vineyards winemaker Brad Ford and his wife Bethany walk Doc and Bea through the vineyards. The horses are put to work in the summertime hauling special mowers between the rows.

Story begins on page 33.

Photos by Jackie Johnston

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1405 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1404 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Editor at-large: Jon Bauer Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Winnie Alberg, Whitney Maldonado, Kate Michaud, Kerry Norton, Eric Zegzula, Dan Skorski, Mike Rader, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Dave Seaver, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue.

Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing photographers: Jackie Johnston, Katherine Jones, J. Kevin Dunn, Jeremy Quant Contributing writers: Sean P. Sullivan Ad sales: Parker Hodge, 509-585-7257 E-mail: phodge@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site.

Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below.

Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2011 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

S P R I N G 2 0 1 1 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

A tale of two wines

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don’t know that two red wines could be more opposite than Pinot Noir and Petite Sirah.

One is classy, the other brash. One is a poet, the other a rocker. One is a ballerina, the other a pole dancer. One is Ichiro, the other Hulk Hogan. One is Jacob, the other Esau.

One I adore, the other I crave. One I love, the other I desire.

Perhaps I can more deeply understand yin yang through Pinot Noir and Petite Sirah. Or why men and women are so utterly different yet so fully capable of affection for each other.

To me, a perfect day of wine tasting would start with Pinot Noir and conclude with Petite Sirah. That perfect day was Jan. 6.

As I do nearly every year, I trekked to California soon after New Year’s Day to participate in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the largest judging in North America. It’s held in Cloverdale, a wide spot along Highway 101 in northern Sonoma County. I like to drive because it gives me about 30 hours in the car to listen to music, it’s easier to bring back wine in a car than on a plane, and the Redwood Highway is one of the most beautiful drives in America.

Many competitions ask each judge ahead of time what they might be interested in tasting. Everybody puts down Pinot Noir, and nobody puts down Chardonnay. The running joke at every competition is you’ll probably end up with Chardonnay — and never what you request. I put down Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah and Riesling. I’m happy to taste anything, even Chardonnay, but these are the three varieties I’m most interesting in judging.

After a couple of days tasting Cabs, Syrahs and red blends, our panel found wine-judging nirvana — at least my version of it: We had 85 high-priced Pinot Noirs before lunch and 50 upper-end Petite Sirahs in the afternoon.

(Before you say, “How in the world can you taste so many wines!” just know that this is an ordinary day at a wine competition and is surprisingly not difficult.)

I had a feeling this was going to be a memorable and glorious day, but I didn’t think it would be the greatest day in my wine judging career. Our panel of five looked forward to spending the morning with Pinot Noir. Its plush elegance, modest tannins and refined complexity were welcomed at our table.

Honestly, my opportunities to enjoy Pinot Noir are more rare than you might expect. I adore the grape, but my wife does not, even though she grew up in the Willamette Valley. I lovingly refer to her as my “bad Oregonian” because she eschews Pinot Noir in favor of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Her parents, who still reside just south of Portland, also prefer Washington reds for their quality and value.

So my personal collection of Pinot Noir grows and lan6

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guishes, awaiting the day my bride will have an epiphany and begin to share my love for the greatest of grapes.

On this sunny day in Northern California, the Pinot Noirs did not disappoint. In fact, the first wine out of the chute earned a unanimous gold medal from our panel. To provide insights on the rarity of this, it is nearly impossible to get two judges, much less five, to agree on Pinot Noir. At a California competition many years ago, I had to physically restrain two judges who nearly came to blows over Pinot Noir.

On this day, there were no such theatrics, only harmony as we worked through the 85 wines, which were priced in that sweet-spot range of $30 to $34.99. We found many to like and few to discard at this price point. Most were from 2008, a superb vintage up and down the West Coast, and they were majestic. I thought I knew Pinot Noir, but this day took me to a greater level of understanding the majestic grape. These were not overripe, over-extracted, Syrah look-alikes. These were what Pinot Noir was supposed to be. They were dancers on another plane of existance. They were purity. They were sublime.

During lunch, I salivated at what the afternoon would bring. Many think of Petite Sirah as a brutal taskmaster. I view it more as a long-haired, leather-clad demon on wheels, a free spirit pushing its way along a winding highway. Petite Sirah is Hunter Thompson writing Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. It is bold, bombastic and in your face. It makes no excuses or apologies, nor should it.

We attacked the afternoon session with gusto, knowing we would end the day with hobolike blackened teeth. I found a kindred spirit in Christopher Sawyer, a California sommelier and fellow judge who shared my lust for Petite Sirah. Buoyed by the wines before us, Christopher and I bullied the others into awarding gold medals to deserving wines. We were as unconstrained as the Petite Sirahs before us.

On a nearby panel was Dan Berger, California’s renowed wine writer and notorious Petite Sirah lover. A few years ago, the California Petite Sirah trade association was looking for a catchy name, and Berger suggested, “P.S. I Love You.” The Petite Sirah advocates liked it so much, they took it as their name. On this day, there was no love for Petite Sirah.

It was pure lechery, and Christopher and I decided we wanted to change the name of the group to “P.S. I Want You Bad.” By the time we were through, I was nearly breathless yet still energized from what I’d just experienced. This was the greatest day of my wine tasting life, even if it didn’t include Riesling.

ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest.

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a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Don’t put all your Pinot in one basket

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t isn’t quite like saying that it’s best not to put all your hatchlings into a solitary container, but a statistic was just handed to me that makes it seem so.

Let’s back up.

Napa Valley is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon. Oh, sure, there are a few other wines in Napa, but they are merely the second string, the support players, members of the Greek chorus, spear carriers who seem to fade into the woodwork.

Despite the overwhelming nature of Cab in Napa, the wine can carry its own weight. When you consider that the cost of the juice in even the most expensive Cabernet is about $10, then the wine clearly can sustain its own avoirdupois. In Napa, $50 is a cheap wine.

And the reason has as much to do with the weather as anything else. California gets a lot of sun. Emphasis on “lot.” The result is that California Cab-makers can get the stuff as ripe as they want, and for the last 14 years or so, they have wanted a lot of ripeness. Emphasis on “lot.”

There are many reasons why this new-style Cabernet is popular, and why people are willing to part with significant amounts of pelf to acquire some of the absurdly priced potable. But suffice it to say that despite the downturn in the economy, the mindlessness with which some people acquire these wines almost regardless of price helps to maintain the landscaping in front of the palatial manors.

And here’s a key point: all this can be reliably produced year after year because of the plethora of sun and the willingness of the producers to avoid as much vintage variation as possible through tactics that dumb down the wines.

Distinctiveness? It’s a word that has little place in Napa any more. The populace seems mesmerized by this iconic wine.

Now that statistic: 53 percent of the wine produced in Oregon is Pinot Noir. This is a lot and must be a result of the demand for such wines, as well as the reputation they command. In a way, Oregon Pinot has a reputation that Napa’s Cabs have acquired. And Napa Cab is often compared with Bordeaux and Oregon’s Pinots are compared with Burgundy.

So can we compare Oregon Pinot to Napa Cab? Both are iconic wines and operate similarly in the marketplace.

But it’s not fair to compare. The wines are miles apart in a critical way. For me, it comes down to one thing: the sun.

There’s not always a lot of it in Oregon.

Most of Oregon is, let me be clear, a superb growing area for Pinot Noir because of its cool temperatures. Pinot likes cool, yet there is such a thing as too much cool. And in some vintages, Oregon Pinot can show a less-than-appealing awkwardness.

Great producers usually solve this problem, but occasionally the wines display distinctive vintage variations. This is a 8

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good thing. Buyers of Bordeaux and Burgundy have long accepted vintage variation as a way of sorting out the good from the great — and of course they get a few “serviceable” vintages, in which the prices drop precipitously.

If prices for Bordeaux and Burgundy drop when the vintage isn’t very great, shouldn’t Oregon’s? And if not, what is the consumer to think? “I’m paying $50 for this stuff?”

Moreover, though Oregon Pinot and Napa Cab are both iconic wines, the latter has recently shown a homogeneity that can be awfully boring. Though there is rarely much boring about Oregon Pinot, there is a growing sameness that is borne of attempting to justify high prices in some vintages when it isn’t warranted by the quality. (Oak anyone?)

So putting 53 percent of your eggs in a single basket may be a bit of a risk, especially when Oregon can make sensational Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and especially Riesling.

That said, look at Washington. Only 20 percent of its fruit is in Riesling, though that percentage is fast expanding.

Assume that Riesling doubled its visibility in Washington to the same 53 percent that represents Pinot to Oregon. Would that entail the same sort of risk?

Not at all, and for a very interesting reason. Riesling is now being sold based on three different criteria: sweetness, regional characteristics and age-worthiness. Oregon Pinot Noir has only the latter two such criteria.

If 53 percent of the wine Washington had to sell were Riesling, the risks would be significantly less than Oregon now faces with Pinot. For one thing, consumers could choose bone dry Riesling, medium sweet, dessert or anything in between. And they could get a wine like those from Yakima or a wine from the Gorge, or any number of other regions.

Now the last parameter: aging. Not many people have yet discovered the absolute joys of aging Riesling. Their loss. We have long loved what happens to the drier styles of Riesling with bottle age, and yet we also have experienced the other end of the stick: Oregon Pinot Noirs that were aged too long.

Sometimes the best a Pinot Noir can be is at age 3 or 4, and after that the wine tends to lose character. In more cases than I can count, Riesling with the proper acid and pH will be a dramatically fine wine with time in the cellar.

My conclusion: Perhaps Oregon should remove some of those marginal Pinot plantings and put in more Riesling.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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northwest edge

BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Wine country comes to the big city

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erry Thompson is such an ardent fan of Washington wines and winemakers that he sold his successful commercial interiors business in 2009, enlisted his entire family and a “dream team” of industry professionals and spent over a year creating URBAN enoteca (Ue), a warm and welcoming “wine center” that debuted last December just south of downtown Seattle.

Thompson was inspired by the Italian “enoteca” or “wine repository,” a special kind of wine shop that brings together the best wines from small, local wineries in one easy-toaccess location for sampling and wine purchase. Plans for Ue solidified after a visit to Press Club San Francisco, a tastingbar concept that brings Napa Valley wines to the big city for easy sampling.

But Thompson conceived Ue on a much more grand and lavish scale. Not to be confused with a single tasting room, a wine bar or a restaurant, Ue offers up a “full Washington wine experience and entertainment destination” that includes a spacious wine-tasting venue, top-notch wine-country-styled restaurant, 20,000-square-foot private-event space and 150 free covered and lighted parking spaces-all within one beautifully designed complex.

The former warehouse oozes “urban-rustic” charm thanks to repurposed and up-cycled timber beams and columns, stained-concrete floors, rich wood finishes, stone and travertine walls and multiple fireplaces. Vintage metal gates, recycled wine-barrel-stave sconces, ornate ironwork, birch doors and African mahogany cabinetry act as integral works of art.

At Ue’s heart lies The Tasting Center, comprised of seven (eventually, up to 13) tasting bars featuring Eastern Washington wineries.

“In choosing our winery partners, we have three criteria,” the ebullient Thompson told me. “The best wine in the state, the best people to do business with and that they have no current presence on the west side of the state.”

Ue’s tasting bar wineries read like a “who’s who” of Washington’s finest: Five Star Cellars (Walla Walla Valley), Cave B Estate Winery (Columbia Basin), Côte Bonneville (Yakima Valley), Fielding Hills Winery (Wahluke Slope), Fidelitas (Red Mountain), Kiona Vineyards & Winery (Red Mountain) and McCrea Cellars (Seattle).

When guests arrive in Ue’s Grand Hall, the concierge swipes a credit card and creates a “library card,” which allows guests to taste selections from any of the seven wineries and purchase the wines they like. Upon check-out, guests pick up purchased wines to carry away or have shipped home.

Ue’s private-event spaces include the rustic, yet elegant Riddling Room. With capacity for 175 seated guests, it’s perfect for receptions or galas. The 40-seat Barrel Room is often booked by grooms or for corporate business meetings thanks to its dark leather armchairs and masculine vibe. Totally tricked out in white with contemporary furnishings and seating for 25, the Blanc de Blanc Room is a favorite of brides 10

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URBAN enoteca, a tasting room for several Washington wineries throughout the state, opened in December in Seattle’s SODO district. (Photo by Team Photogenic)

and red-wine lovers, since the wines show up so well against the pale background.

With his experienced palate and superior wine-pairing skills, Ue chef de cuisine Christopher Opsata creates culinary magic in The Library Lounge, offering bites, small plates, shared boards and platters, and sweets. We were particularly taken with his Bagels & Lox, an upscale, playful reinvention of the classic served on a toasted-brioche-crumb base and paired with deftly oaked Fidelitas 2009 Optu White Wine. The chef ’s rich Roasted Mushroom Soup made a perfect match with McCrea Cellars soulful 2006 Ameríque Syrah. Served with silky Côte Bonneville 2009 Late-Harvest Riesling, Opsata’s Homemade Sweet Potato Doughnuts with Tart Cranberries and Sweet Potato Ice Cream formed a fitting finale to a sumptuous supper.

Thompson calls the idea, planning, creation and opening of URBAN enoteca the best business decision of his life.

“There’s tremendous growth potential in Washington wines. We haven’t even scratched the surface yet.”

Coordinates:

URBAN enoteca 4130 First Avenue South Seattle, WA 98134 206-467-WINE (9463) urbanenoteca.com Open Tuesday-Sunday. Hours vary.

Braiden Rex-Johnson is a Seattle-based cookbook author, food-and-wine columnist and blogger. Visit her online at www.NorthwestWiningandDining.com.

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Verticals show how wines age I’ve heard the term “vertical tasting” a number of times, but am not sure exactly what it means or what its purpose is. I’d like to know more.

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vertical tasting offers a chance to compare a set of wines, generally from the same winery, over a series of years. It allows the tasters to make a number of comparisons, but the focus typically is to observe how a particular wine varietal ages and note its changes over a number of years. There is no set number of wines to include, but usually there are at least five vintages.

In the spring of 2000, Wine Press Northwest did a vertical of Woodward Canyon Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignons from 1981 to 1999. They included the predecessors to winemaker Rick Small’s “Old Vines” series and the first years of “Old Vines,” starting with 1995.

Our aim was to see how the wines were aging and to look at the progression of a single high-quality producer of renowned Northwest wines. My sidebar piece that recounted how each vintage from the Lowden, Wash., winery was aging began: “’The tasting panel agreed this was an incredible set of wines.”

Sipping the 1983, Small observed about the then 17-yearold wine — which was the tasting panel’s favorite — “It feels like an old friend every time I drink it.”

More recently, my wife and I attended a different type of vertical in February at Terra Blanca Winery’s winemaker’s dinner. Winemaker Keith Pilgrim had paired up his premium Bordeaux-style red, Onyx, from vintages 1999 through 2007 with a seven-course meal prepared by Dale Shepherd and his staff from the Blue Moon Restaurant in Kennewick.

It was a very different, less analytical vertical tasting of the Red Mountain winery’s signature red wine, but in its own way even more satisfying because two years in the series were offered for tasting with appetizers, then each of the rest carefully paired with a course of food tailored to each wine’s individual character.

For even more fun, one course featured two wines because the winery and cooking staffs were evenly split over which paired better with an arugula and spinach salad featuring gjetost cheese and a chocolate balsamic dressing.

Aging Northwest wines: A reader update

In response to my last column on the aging potential of Northwest wines, a former Washington resident now living in Texas sent me a note that indicates with even a little care, our red wines — especially Cabernet — last a long time.

Lloyd Piper, who lived in Richland from 1995-2003, reported he added a lot of Washington reds to his roughly 500-bottle cellar during his time in the Northwest, “mostly Cab, but some Merlot, Syrah and blends.”

After two moves, first to Carlsbad, N.M., and then to Texas, in 2007, he reports his Northwest wines are doing well despite less-than-perfect conditions — “stored horizontally at air-conditioned house temperatures.”

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Even so, he reported few concerns. The first red he added to his cellar after arriving in Richland was the 1992 Kiona Reserve Estate Cabernet Reserve from the pioneer Red Mountain winery. For the next several years, he added cases of the estate reserve and some of the Washington Cab. “All the Kiona Cab has held up exceptionally well,” he reported. “When I first started tasting them at 8 and 9 years after the vintage, they were wonderful and fresh with many years to go. I would not hesitate to let them go 15 years in my storage conditions, and have without a significant drop-off.”

Wine words: Fining

When you admire the crystal clarity of a wine, chances are you’re observing the result of a combination of several procedures used to prepare a wine for bottling. The several-step process usually starts with racking, then fining, then perhaps cold stabilization and filtration.

Virtually all wines are at least racked, which gradually separates out the lees, or sediment, left behind as wines ferment in a tank or barrel. Fermenting and aging on the lees adds flavor and complexity, but most wine lovers want no part of the gunk that accumulates in the bottom of a tank.

Even after careful racking, many wines will have a bit of a hazy look to them, generally the result of suspended matter.

Most of the suspended matter has either a positive or a negative charge, and the fining agent chosen will depend on what needs to be removed.

The most commonly used fining agents are egg white, tannin, gelatin, bentonite, isinglass and casein. Egg white, with its positive charge, takes out negatively charged particles, such as certain tannins and anthocyanins, which are the color pigments from grape skin. Bentonite, a claylike substance, has a negative charge, and commonly is used to fine out protein haze and other organics.

Winemakers striving to preserve the maximum amount of a wine’s character and “natural” state often are leery of cold stabilization, which removes tartrates, a natural (and tasteless) part of the winemaking process. Certain purists feel the presence of tartrates is more likely to mean you’re drinking a less processed, more natural wine.

Filtration also is frowned on by those who believe less fussing over a wine produces a more natural result. And they often point to filtration as removing elements that may be desirable.

This, it’s rather common to see wines labeled as “unfiltered,” especially Pinot Noir, which many feel is especially prone to dropping out its lovely colors if it’s overly processed.

KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman since 1968 and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 33 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com.

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urban sips

BY TERI CITTERMAN

Keep the tassels twirling

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ow that the Oscar’s red carpet is respectfully rolled up and you’ve probably had your fill of bad girl ballet, I was peering into a juicy red bubble of love and started thinking about all the wonderful things that simply fit together — like Pinot and Noir, Adam and Eve, ballet and burlesque. Yes, you heard right! Grab a glass of grace and goodness and let’s make those tassels twirl with a flurry. Black Swan madness — that’s what I’m talkin’ about!

Dive into the full fleshiness of Syncline Wine Cellars 2009 Subduction Red. Young and ripe and heavily steeped in my favorite Mourvèdre, this wine spills over its cup size — uncontained and juicy. Dark plum and blackberry untie into a loose string leading to a spicy finish. Supple and seductive, this wine twirls its tassels with smoldering intensity. I love that it’s the real deal, bouncy and perky — an expressive handful, meaning a mouthful for every occasion.

Taking second position, the Jones of Washington 2007 Estate Syrah pours with arabesque grace — long legs extend with sinewy muscle and razor-pointed toes. Blackberry! Blueberry!

Raspberry! Oh my. Poised in its berry cobbler filling wrapped in an approachable mystery inside a mocha finish, this wine is dancer-balanced on point with strong aptitude and delicate precision Stage left and back to bawdy, lips doused in a shimmer of red, Strut Wines’ 2008 Red Over Heels from British Columbia checks its inhibitions at the door. It’s crimsonly simple with astute acid and tannic intentions. Silken and wiggling, this wine breathes Merlot in the form of canned cranberry, cherry and spicy red currant. Black sheer stockings with seams up the middle light up the night, as a plunge of low-cut fruit envelopes your tongue. Grab the pole, honey, I think we’ve caught a live one!

Now wait a minute! Burlesque and ballet are not just about chicks flitting around on stage in tu-tus or G-strings.

Boylesque anyone? Wilridge’s 2008 Melange is loaded with leather and soy sauce, this rock salt of masculinity blows blackberry, candied orange peel and cedar. Its unparalleled enthusiasm reveals violet, black plum, baking spice and a slight hint of lavender wrapped up and worth ogling in those tight tight tights! It’s hard, if not impossible, to overlook those sturdy tannins staring back at us with intensity. A yummy package indeed!

And of Wilridge, there’s more and more. Its 2007 Nebbiolo does not mince words in its chassé across the stage. Chasing who knows what or whom, it’s pretty and light, and packs a powerful tannic punch with a steel fist in a velvet glove. With its grand jeté it splits the air, and grand-plié lands deep and fulfilling. This wine springs solid mid-tongue tannins that hit right where you hoped they would in sudden bursts of bright cherry and pomegranate, its finish releases into a strapping pirouette of black rope licorice.

And then, in all its drama, Torii Mor 2008 Pinot Noir, 14

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Willamette Valley, slithers on stage as the naughty housewife.

Light as a feather duster and sexy as French lace, this wine kicks off the covers, revealing a lot more going on underneath layers of smooth spice, bright cherry and blackberry.

It’s a pretty wine, simply robed in earthy ruby, cranberry and dried red fruit. Poised acid entwines its legs around bump ‘n’ grind rhythms of raspberry leading to a time-consuming (in a good way) finish.

But back to ballet, nothing says Black Swan like Efeste 2007 Final Final Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s an eruption of dark chocolate and juniper spice. Powerful and ironic, this wine drinks you in with Port de Bras strength in its carriage. Daring and provocative with black plum rippling through juicy boysenberry, it’s a bottle of balance with a dense backbone of mischief and mayhem. Cherry undulations lead to a lasting finish that opens wider and wider as the curtain draws to its final close of prolonged applause. It’s called Final Final for a reason.

Barrister Winery’s Rough Justice truly is the stage kitten of wine. Breathing gently with black plum boa and black lace — purring and pleading to be subdued by a swirl of Graham cracker piecrust. Rich and jammy, this wine does a little more than suggest you pay attention with shocks of blackberry filling, pasties a-twirling silky tannins and a drawn-out finish to make any onlooker pretty damn eager to indulge.

And with that, L’Ecole’s 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, takes center stage with its quick complexity — Entrechat-Quatre, powerful thrusts of blackberry and dark cherry. Inspired by the grace and elegance of a swan, this wine shows French discipline in its Old World structure — with an earthy rawness that comes from none other but the underworld — beautiful, balanced and bawdy.

Finally, the Nelms Road 2008 Merlot may be the road less taken. Or not. This ruby is a dalliance from disciplined correctness. It tempts your taste buds in a mouthwatering tease of deep, sweet black currant and pepper. Vanilla, blackberry and dark, ripe raspberry meander through a rage of round and supple tannins full and cascading to a fine and warranted finish. While you know where this wine is going, it’s an arousing journey to get there.

Who’s not having a good time now? I dare ya!

Signing off, Juicy McFly! (my official Burlesque name) With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is the author of the latest edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest and the Northwest Wine Journal. She also was the winner of the Napa Valley Wine Writers Editor’s Choice Award in 2007. She contributes to Seattle Metropolitan and writes An Urban Sip Wine Blog at anurbansip.com.

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bloggers’ blend

BY SEAN P. SULLIVAN

Washington Syrah: star or FUBAR? Editor’s note: In each issue, this column rotates among the top wine bloggers in the Pacific Northwest.

W

e all know the problems of Syrah in Washington and elsewhere these days. We know the jokes contrasting a case of Syrah to a case of pneumonia (you can get rid of a case of pneumonia). But Washington Syrahs have also gained huge scores and accolades in recent years. So at this year’s Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers conference in February, a simple question was posed: Is Washington Syrah a star or is it FUBAR? Here is why I personally believe that it is, in fact, FUBAR. Just kidding.

Syrah’s market performance is indeed morose. The national numbers presented by Brett Scallan of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates at the growers conference were funereal. However, there are a number of Washington wineries whose Syrahs are doing well with consumers and displaying something unique that is causing commotion. So why has Syrah not caught on as much as many believe it should or thought it would? Here is what I believe some of the issues are and why I believe the grape will ultimately succeed in Washington.

To date, many reasons have been posited for Syrah’s lack of success, with the most common being consumer fatigue with Australian critter wines; confusion about what Syrah is going to taste like given the range of styles available; and large amounts of not-very-high-quality domestic Syrah coming from California. (Damn those Californians!)

All of these things are true. There is a marketing and perception problem with the grape, and Syrah is currently on a downward trend nationally, although Washington Syrah sales are, interestingly, rising. However, everything is cyclical, and consumers are nothing if not malleable. Remember how easily the fates of Merlot and Pinot Noir were altered? Over time, consumers may still come to love Washington Syrah.

But this will happen only if they have a good experience when they open a bottle and if they can explore the grape without breaking the bank. The highs in Washington Syrah are extraordinarily high, but the lows are quite low. Many Syrahs in the state taste nondescript and monolithic. Many don’t taste particularly like Syrah.

Why is this? Winemaker Bob Betz of Betz Family Winery likes to say that Syrah is a “chameleon.” It expresses its site. I personally like to say that Syrah is like a sponge. It soaks up the terroir of the place that it is planted. It also soaks up the vineyard practices applied to it. And it also soaks up winemaking techniques.

Writer Jay Miller at Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate noted last August in the publication’s annual review of Washington wine that many growers and winemakers in Washington have treated Syrah like Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe this is true, perhaps most notably in regard to the amount of new oak many winemakers use. Some positively 16

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bludgeon the grape. Others ripen Syrah to the point where it loses both its typicity and balance. While Syrah may not be the famously thin-skinned Pinot Noir, it is still a somewhat sensitive grape and needs to be treated carefully.

Interestingly, those who have excelled with the variety have tended to be wineries where Syrah is a large focus of their program, rather than just another wine in the lineup.

Another problem is that there is a hole in Washington in terms of high quality, value-priced Syrahs. While many of the higher end wines are exceptional and merit their price points, it is difficult to give consumers a teaser at the low end and then march them up the price ladder. Consumers can’t be expected to spend $30 to $40 a bottle to see what all the fuss is about.

Finally, remember that Syrah’s history in Washington is short — just approaching the quarter-century mark. Ten years after the first vines were planted at Red Willow Vineyard, there were barely over 300 acres planted in the whole state. By 2010, the acreage was 10 times that, making Syrah one of Washington’s most planted red grapes. This means that most of the vines are very young. Even a number of Cayuse Vineyards’ vaunted sites are less than 10 years old.

It will take time for these vineyards to truly show themselves.

However, the best Syrahs coming out of Washington are unique and stylistically diverse. Think about the wines of K Vintners, Charles Smith, Cayuse Vineyards, Reynvaan Family Vineyards, Betz Family Winery, Gramercy Cellars and Rasa Vineyards, to name just a few that are particularly excelling with the grape. There is a common thread in these wines, but there is also tremendous diversity that speaks both to differences in vineyard site and winemaking style. These are the things that get wine lovers excited. Importantly, these Syrahs are not just great Washington wines. They can stand alongside the best Syrahs in the world.

So, yes, there is cause for concern. But there is also reason for optimism. Washington Syrah has already made tremendous inroads. People who pay a lot of attention — critics, sommeliers and hard-core wine lovers — are already keenly focused on Washington Syrah. Is Syrah going to be the quick hit and rise to stardom in Washington many thought it would be? Yes and no. And this is where much of the disappointment lies. The top wines have excelled — and sold — but many, perhaps most, have not.

But don’t give up on Washington Syrah. Its time in the sun will come. However, Syrah succeeding on a large scale in the state is going to take some time and effort. So pack your bags for the long haul — and don’t forget to put a bottle of Syrah in there.

Sean P. Sullivan writes the Washington Wine Report blog at wawinereport.com.

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activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

O

ne of our favorite debates about wine comes down to those who view it as the devil’s work.

Thanks to a note from an Air Force master sergeant in Richland, Wash., I’ve got some new material for those folks.

Jerry Butler, a Texas minister, has written a book called Wine & Spirit. He credits time with Christian friends in Germany and France for the inspiration.

Meanwhile, the conservative wing of Christianity chooses to overlook events such as Jesus turning water into wine and the role of wine at the Last Supper.

My colleague Ken Robertson readily points out that ranking members of the Catholic church during the Middle Ages boasted of their wine cellars. There are also luminaries such as Martin Luther and Dom Perignon. Unless I’m seeing stars, neither was a teetotaler.

Earlier this winter, Butler told the San Antonio Express-News, “My basic thesis is that wine is a gift of God to enjoy, and unquestionably, the principle of moderation is pervasive through that. But the conservative-fundamentalist mindset was that if it can be abused, it shouldn’t be used. We apply it to alcohol, but not to other things like money and greed.”

Let’s drink to that!

1

The Poet Laureate of Wine Press Northwest. This might be the biggest news to come out of this issue, but yes we plan to add a special someone who may be the most talented and original-thinking member of our team. (Watch out, Juicy McFly.) His name is Jordan Chaney, and believe it or not, he lives in Washington’s Tri-Cities. Editor Andy Perdue came across Jordan at a local literature festival and was astounded by his poetry and his reading of it.

Guests of Col Solare will vouch for 18

that. He occasionally performs readings at the Red Mountain showpiece winery, and they’ve booked him four times this spring, including March 26 and April 17.

We recently posted an online slideshow of Jordan reading his first remarkable poem on wine. Look for his first contribution in our Summer 2011 issue. Get a read at billowingwords.com.

2

Swirling around the Pearl. Wineries in the Columbia River Gorge region will take their act on the road March 28, heading to Portland’s tony Pearl District. More than 20 wineries will kick off their annual Passport Week with an evening pouring at Urban Studio. Tickets are $25, which includes a wine glass, small bites and a passport for the April 1-2 weekend back in the gorge.

Blow over to ColumbiaGorgeWine.com.

3

Hike the vines on Red Mountain. It seems as if Heather Unwin is always running around at Terra Blanca Winery and Estate Vineyard. Starting in April, she and staff will slow down a bit just after lunch on Fridays and Saturdays.

That’s when they lead guided walks of the vineyards, a program she calls, “Watch Wine Grow” among the 300 acres.

The walks run 1-3 p.m. from April Fool’s Day to Oct. 29. Get up-close and personal with anecdotes, birdwatching and samples of wines connected to the varieties touched in the vineyard. Cost is $15. Reservations are urged. Lace ‘em up at terrablanca.com.

4

Wake up to Sleeping Lady. Another sign that we live in wine country is when a resort builds grand events around food and regional wines.

Well, Sleeping Lady in Leavenworth has been getting down with Wenatchee Valley winemakers for a number of years.

The mountain resort in Icicle Canyon — created by famed Seattle philanthropist

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Harriet Bullitt — is also a member of Chefs Collaborative, which promotes sustainable food practices.

On April 8, New York Times columnist Mark Bittman spends the evening at Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort to promote his latest book, Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating. Wines served at the VIP dinner are 100% Northwest, some from certified organic, if not biodynamic, fruit.

Can’t make that? Sleeping Lady stages monthly “harvest dinners” May through October to spotlight local food and wine pairings. Lift the covers at sleepinglady.com.

5

Rooting for the New World. Once a month, Laurent Montalieu and Danielle Andrus Montalieu’s remarkable Soléna Estate project in the Willamette Valley will throw open the doors for comparative tastings that pit New World (Oregon) vs. the Old World.

These are often complimentary tastings and staged at the Soléna tasting room in Carlton and the Soléna/Grand Cru Estates gallery in Yamhill.

On April 16-17, it’s Chardonnay, which can be almost as controversial/confrontational as Pinot Noir. Get your oak on at solenaestate.com.

6

Derby Day in the Snake River Valley.

Among the few sporting events I can get my wife to sit down and watch with me is the Kentucky Derby or the other Triple Crown races. Pre-me, she was a groom for thoroughbred race horses and saw parts of the country that I’ll never make it to. She even witnessed a running of The Preakness.

If we’re in the Boise area May 7, here’s an event I wouldn’t have to nag her about.

Woodriver Cellars in Eagle — formerly the Winery at Eagle Knoll — is holding its Derby Party. They invite patrons to get “dressed in your best and celebrate the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY running of the Kentucky Derby.”

I’d much rather quaff a dry Riesling than a cloying mint julep. Saddle up at woodrivercellars.com.

7

Wine, whine while your run. Those crazy Canucks. The South Okanagan Winery Association (SOWA) will hold the second annual Half-Corked Marathon on May 28-29.

They expect more than 300 entrants, and it will cover 18 kilometers (11 miles for Yanks). It’s modeled after the famed Marathon du Medoc, which lures 8,000 runners each year.

In the Okanagan, runners get to sample wines at each of the 20 participating wineries along the Golden Mile and Black Sage Bench, including our 2011 Winery to Watch — Cassini Cellars. I’m guessing the stretch up to Tinhorn Creek is the toughest. Both the speediest and best dressed will be feted. Cost is $75. Run over to sowasite.com.

8

Taste Washington Spokane 2.0. The Washington Wine Commission pulled the plug on its annual Taste Washington event at The Davenport.

Don’t despair. Vintage Spokane is June 5. Varsity Communications has stepped in, and the remodeled event at the Lincoln Center — while a bit different — should still be a good time.

Varsity produces most major WWC events, including TW-Spo, so it has an “Outstanding!” track record. Go to vintagespokane.com or varsitycommunications.com. Wine Press Northwest is a sponsor, so look for our booth.

9

Gold-winning winemakers go iron.

It’s been written here that if you read this, then you owe it to yourself to indulge at least one time and dine at The Herbfarm and spend that night across the parking lot at Willows Lodge in Woodinville.

But there’s more to Willows Lodge than a place to rest your head. Barking Frog executive chef Bobby Moore ranks with the best in the Northwest, and both he and the lodge are active in the Woodinville wine scene.

Late this spring, Willows Lodge plays host to the second annual Iron Vintner W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY Challenge. Think of the TV show Iron Chef, only with local winemakers working the line rather than celebrity chefs.

The lineup features chef/winemakers John Bigelow (JM Cellars), Chris Gorman (Gorman Winery), Chris Sparkman (Sparkman Cellars) and Chris Upchurch (DeLille Cellars).

The early betting favorite in Vegas has to be Sparkman — ex-GM of Seattle’s Waterfront Seafood Grill. Watching the entertaining and fast-talking Moore as MC alone will be worth the admission.

Round One is June 8. Admission ($35) includes tastes from competing wineries. Willows Lodge also offers discounted lodging. Proceeds benefit the Little Bit Therapeutic Riding Center in Woodinville. Start at willowslodge.com.

10

Walla Faces many phases. Walla Faces is a little difficult to describe.

It’s a tasting salon/art gallery that pours its own wines. And there are two inns. And the wines come from vines owned by Rick Johnson, who also oversees both Walla Walla Inns and the salon/gallery. One inn is adjacent to the gallery. The other is at the Walla Faces Vineyard, which the Johnsons purchased from the Ahlers in 2006. Acclaimed vintner Matthew Loso, formerly of Matthew Cellars, crafts the “house” wines.

Each week, I spend a few minutes approving Walla Faces calendar items for our free online Wine Events page at winepressnw.com. The Faces is a busy place, with a live performance seemingly every night of the week.

Among the recent performers is Prosser-based jazzman Wayman Chapman, who does an “Outstanding!” job every year providing entertainment at Alexandria Nicole Cellars’ Harvest Party.

A bunch of my Facebook friends “like” Walla Faces. Take a look at the photos posted there, and you likely will be inspired to check it out. Start with wallafaces.com. ı What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. ı Have a Northwest wine item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events.

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events

W I N E C O U N T RY

March 26 Capital Food and Wine Festival, Lacey, Wash. Northwest wines take center stage at the 21th annual fundraiser for St. Martin’s University. Cost is $14.

Contact 360-438-4366 or go to capitalfoodandwinefestival.com.

26-27 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington’s signature wine event starts Saturday with seminars at Bell Harbor and ends Sunday with the tasting at the Qwest Field Event Center. Cost starts at $75. Go to tastewashington.org.

April 1-3 Columbia Gorge Passport Weekend. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River participate. The weekend includes a winegrowers fundraising dinner, pouring and auction for hospice. Go to columbiagorgewine.com.

8-9 10th annual Celebration of Syrah, Troutdale, Ore. McMenamins Edgefield Winery brings in winemakers and distributors from the Northwest and beyond for a Syrah showdown. Call 800-669-8610 or go to celebrationofsyrah.com.

15-16 Festival of Wine and Flowers, Spokane, Wash. The 20th annual tasting and auction of Washington wines raises money for St. Luke’s Rehabilitation Institute, which stages the event. Cost is $125. Go to festivalofwineandflowers.com.

16-17 Passport to Woodinville, Woodinville, Wash. These are the only two days of the year during which all these wineries are open to the public. Cost is $65 per person. Call 425-205-4394 or go to woodinvillewinecountry.com.

15-17 Spring Barrel Tasting, Yakima Valley, Wash. This longtime annual event showcases the more than 50 wineries and special seminars in the Northwest’s oldest appellation. Cost is $45. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

29-May 1 Astoria-Warrenton Crab & Seafood Festival, Astoria, Ore. Sip wine from more than 40 Oregon wineries while enjoying seafood at the mouth of the Columbia River.

This marks the event’s 29th year. Call 503-325-6311 or go to oldoregon.com.

May April 28-May 9 The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. It includes more than 100 events. Go to owfs.com or call 250-861-6654.

6-8 Spring Release Weekend, Walla Walla, Wash. This is one of two weekends when nearly each winery is open. Call 509-526-3117 or go wallawallawine.com.

6-8 Spring Barrel Tasting, Spokane, Wash. Spokane wineries continue to open their doors to visitors on Mother’s Day weekend. Go to spokanewineries.net.

7 Ellensburg Wine Festival, Ellensburg, Wash. Nearly 30 wineries are set to pour at the third annual event. Cost is $30. Go to ellensburg-chamber.com.

14 Indie Wine Festival, Portland. Wineries making less than 2,000 cases compete to pour at this block party in the Pearl. Cost is $75. Go to indiewinefestival.com.

20-22 North Central Washington Barrel Tasting. Chelan, Cashmere, Leavenworth, Oroville and Wenatchee wineries participate. Go to columbiacascadewines.com.

28-30 Memorial Weekend in Wine Country, Willamette Valley, Ore. This is one of two regional weekends in the valley. Call 503-646-2985 or go to willamettewines.com.

June 5 Vintage Spokane. After nine years, the event has been rebranded and moved to the Lincoln Center. Go to varsitycommunications or vintagespokane.com.

12 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission puts wineries and restaurants on display at the Idaho Botanical Gardens. Cost is $40. Go to savoridaho.org.

10-12 Winthrop Wine Festival, Winthrop, Wash. Regional wineries pour for the seventh year near the Methow River. Cost is $30. Go to winthropwashington.com.

25 Sunshine & Wine, Yakima, Wash. Sample wines from the Washington State Wine Competition, watch the awards ceremony, enjoy a five-course dinner and an auction. Cost is $125. Call 509-248-7160 or go to fairfun.

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NORTHWEST WINE

Ste. Michelle doesn’t rob Bargain Bob’s wallet BY “BARGAIN BOB” WOEHLER

able to taste wines from the Woodinville behemoth.

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s flagship winery, is nearly as old as I am.

That means I’ve had a lot of years to be

Subsequently, it has a lineup of wines that are more than a pip on Bargain Bob’s radar.

These are wines that cost $15 and under, ranging from a jammy Syrah to a fruit-forward Riesling.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is the oldest winery in Washington, dating back to 1934, and the state’s second-largest winery after Columbia Crest.

So it’s only natural it would have some fine examples of bargain wines.

The prices listed are those at state liquor stores and other retail outlets.

2009 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $6: This variety put Chateau Ste. Michelle on the world’s wine map in a California tasting in mid-1970s.

2009 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, $6: This is my person-

al Riesling favorite because of its wide food applications. Crisp, refreshing starting with peach and apricot aromas, then more tree fruit flavors and a clean finish.

2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $9: Co-ferment-

ing with Viognier gives it a touch of citrus to go along with the dark berry jam flavors. Soft and ripe fruit makes this an easy-to-drink red.

2009 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $9: A

soft style of Chardonnay with bright sweet citrus fruit character and subtle spice and oak nuances.

2009 Gewürztraminer, Columbia Valley, $6:

Classic floral and spice characteristics. A touch of Muscat offers citrus notes and a deeper spice charm.

2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $9:

Refreshing style offering fresh aromas and flavors of lemongrass, apple and melon.

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley $12: Extremely berry driven with silky

tannins, excellent structure and great food applications.

2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $12: Think black cherries on the tongue with leather and spice aromas.

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NORTHWEST WINE

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Charles Smith wine labels simply Magnificent Charles Smith has cultivated a rock-star image with his big hair and bold attitude since starting K Vintners in late 2001, then branching out with the Magnificent Wine Co. and Charles Smith Wines. Prior to coming to Eastern Washington, Smith worked as a rock band promoter in Scandinavia, which is where he met the woman who has been a close friend and his designer from the start.

BY JON BAUER

What’s black and white, but red (or white) inside?

The answer is easy enough to find in a wine shop or grocery store. It’s a bottle from K Vintners and Charles Smith Wines, distinctive on the shelf for bold pen-and-ink designs and block lettering in black and white only: a crown, comic-book bombs, a trident, an apple and apple blossoms, dueling skeletons, grape vines encircling a heart and dagger, a cow with a halo, some of which might look more at home as a tattoo on a biker than on a wine label.

But then the winemaker himself

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DeLAURENTI SPECIALTY FOOD & WINE, 1435 1st Ave. in Seattle's Pike Place Market.

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Discount prices and free local delivery. Open 7 days a week. 206-682-7374. www.esquin.com GEORGE’S WINE SHOPPE, Kelsey Creek Shopping Ctr., 15015 Main St. Ste 115, Bellevue, WA 98007. Wines for every taste!

Open Mon.-Sat. 10-6. 425-644-7723 www.georgeswineshoppe.com NORTH CITY BISTRO & Wine Shop Seattle.

1520 NE 177th. Extensive wine selection.

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wouldn’t seem out of place amongst bikers. Walla Walla, Wash., winemaker

THE WINE ALLEY, Fairwood Shopping Center, 14276 SE 176th St., Renton, WA 98058 Finest wines from the Pacific NW & the world 425-271-4501 • www.thewinealley.com

Tacoma Area WILDSIDE WINE, just off Sixth in Tacoma, at 608 A S. Oxford (3 blocks E of Jackson around the corner from JT's). E-mail for our specials: Carol@wildsidewine.com • 253-565-0811 WINE BANK, 7017 27th St W. University Place, WA 98466. Open Tuesday-Saturday. Saturday tastings. Sign up for weekly e-mail events & specials. Discount wine club. We ship wine!

Great wines, great prices, great service! 253564-1101. www.winebankup.com

Olympic, Kitsap Peninsula, San Juans

Originally from Denmark, but now in Venice, Calif., Rikke Korff said she and Smith met up in Danish nightclubs with the third leg in their tripod, Sune Rose Wagner, now of the alternative rock duo, The Ravonettes.

Oregon Greater Portland Area BRENTWOOD WINE COMPANY — Internet fine wine weekly auctions. Titanium Schott Zwiesel crystal wholesale & retail. The Northwest's largest buyer of fine wine.

For free appraisal, email wine list: appraisals@brentwoodwine.com (503) 638 WINE • www.brentwoodwine.com

Southern Oregon JACKSONVILLE INN WINE & GIFT SHOP Extensive list of hard-to-find wines. Dinner guests can select from over 2,000 wines (541) 899-1900 (800) 321-9344 • jacksonvilleinn.com

Eastern Oregon

COMPASS WINES, 1405 Commercial Ave., Anacortes, WA. 360-293-6500; fax: 360-588-1895.

Extensive collection of rare & collectable wines.

Wine storage. Only 2 blocks from the marinas.

Dockside delivery available. compasswines.com

GREAT PACIFIC WINES & COFFEE CO., 403 S. Main St., Pendleton, OR. (541) 276-1350 Mon-Thurs: 10-8; Fri: 10-9; Sat: 8:30 am-8 pm

Spokane

Oregon Coast

HUCKLEBERRY’S Natural Market, Spokane, 926 S. Monroe, (509) 624-1349. The Inland Northwest’s largest selection of the world’s wines. www.huckleberrysnaturalmarket.com

Central Washington

THE CELLAR ON 10TH, Astoria. Corner of 10th & Marine Dr. Finest selection of regional wines. Wine bar; weekly tastings; storage; gifts.

(503) 325-6600 • www.thecellaron10th.com E-mail us: thecellaron10th@aol.com

GIFTS OF THE VINE, Ellensburg, WA. 421 N Pearl St. Suite 100; Tues-Sun afternoons, Pacific NW wines & gifts; Fri-Sun Tastings giftsofthevine@gmail.com • 509-925-1020

TIFFANY’S DRUG, Bandon Shopping Center, Bandon, OR. (541) 347-4438. The Oregon Coast’s Destination Wine Shop with over 1000 Fine Wines! www.tiffanywineshop.com

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NORTHWEST WINE “They’d crash at my place and we’d listen to music and drink awesome wine,” Korff said.

The friendship grew and continued after Smith moved back to the United States and Korff moved to Brussels to work with Levi Strauss. Korff helped Smith “express his vision” when he opened a wine shop on Bainbridge Island, Wash., decorating the shop and designing its signs.

So there was little question who would design his labels when Smith started his Walla Walla winery.

The process for designing each label isn’t far removed from those nights in Denmark, with wine drinking and talk.

“It’s always been a dialogue,” she said.

The black and white ethic grew out of what Smith wanted to communicate about his wines, Korff said.

“It’s just honest and direct, as simple as bread and butter.

It’s really as basic as it gets,” Korff said.

The label for the 2007 and 2008 Eve Chardonnay shows a fat apple, with a bite out of it, centered on the label and framed by apple blossoms, a design that reflects the wine’s

floral aroma and apple flavors.

The simple designs are also intended to convey, Korff said, a feeling of accessibility and the invitation to drink the wines now, rather than as something to buy and collect.

“He wanted the wine to be enjoyed that day, not something you’d have to study Robert Parker to appreciate,” she said (though Wine Advocate seems to appreciate Smith’s wines, scoring 15 of them between 91 and 99 points in 2010).

Korff, who is now running her own design house, The Korff Kouncil, out of Venice, said she will continue to design labels for Smith and is already working on two or three new label designs. Without giving away the surprise, Korff said the new labels may find inspiration in themes and characters from “Alice in Wonderland.”

She said she caught herself in a slip and nearly said, “Alice in Chains,” the Seattle grunge band.

But then, how far off the mark would Alice in Chains be for Korff and Smith?

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www.pnwc.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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ZERBA CELL ARS Zerba’s zebra-themed tasting room in Dundee, Ore.

e.

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Cecil and Marilyn Zerba

2011 PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINERY OF THE YEAR STORY BY ANDY PERDUE / / PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

Vintage snow shoes hang outside the Milton-Freewater log cabin tasting room.

Mariah Donahue, wine club manager

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winery of the year

CECIL ZERBA HAS FACED CHALLENGES IN the past decade that made him wonder why he got into the wine industry.

Chief among them was 2004, when a January freeze hurt 80 percent of the vines in the Walla Walla Valley.

How the Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year is chosen The Winery of the Year is selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest and is based on a set of criteria, including longevity, quality, reputation, industry involvement, facilities and other considerations. A winery may win the award only once.

Past Pacific Northwest Wineries of the Year 2010: Vin du Lac, Chelan, Wash.

2009: Wild Goose Vineyards, Okanagan Falls, B.C. 2008: Dunham Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.

2007: Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston, Ore. 2006: Barnard Griffin, Richland, Wash.

2005: Ken Wright Cellars, Carlton, Ore.

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have completed at least five vintages, while Wineries to Watch must have been in business no more than five vintages.

2004: L’Ecole No. 41, Lowden, Wash.

2003: Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Summerland, B.C. 2002: Columbia Crest, Paterson, Wash.

How the regional wineries of the year are chosen Regional wineries of the year are selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest based on blind tastings, visits, accolades and other considerations. Wineries of the Year must

Cecil and his wife, Marilyn, were planting vines and building their winery building in Milton-Freewater, Ore., about 15 minutes south of Walla Walla. Zerba had just put vines in and the weather froze them to the ground.

“At that point, construction stopped on the building,” Cecil said. “It all went back to being about the vineyard and the wine. I didn’t want to borrow any more money.”

At that time, Zerba Cellars had just finished its second vintage, during which time Cecil reluctantly took over as winemaker when his consultant moved on in the middle of harvest. The former electrician thought growing grapes and starting a little winery would be a good retirement job.

“Little did I know!” he said with a deep, gruff laugh.

“That about wore me out. It made an old man out of me.”

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All the hard work paid off, as those wines from the 2003 vintage turned out brilliantly and helped Zerba Cellars begin to stand out in the ever-growing Walla Walla Valley.

Today, Zerba produces 7,500 cases of wine and has three tasting rooms in two states. It also is Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.

The Zerbas took an unusual path to being one of the finest wineries in the Northwest. Both grew up in the valley, with Cecil’s family’s roots here stretching back to before the Civil War. They married in 1981 and soon after opened a nursery, growing plants for field crops such as tomatoes and melons. They also grew a dozen different kinds of flowers.

“I didn’t know the difference between a marigold and a petunia,” Cecil said with a twinkle in his eye.

But that didn’t keep the business from being a success.

They began selling produce to grocers between Walla Walla and Baker City and in 2000 sold more than 2 million pounds of pumpkins to Albertsons. They began

2010 winners Washington Winery of the Year: Dusted Valley Vintners, Walla Walla Washington Winery to Watch: Airfield Estates, Prosser Oregon Winery of the Year: Sineann, Newberg Oregon Winery to Watch: Watermill Winery, Milton-Freewater British Columbia Winery of the Year: JoieFarm, Naramata

planting wine grapes in 2000 and sold the nursery business in 2003.

In 2002, the Zerbas launched their eponymous winery with purchased grapes, then followed up in 2003 with a mix of purchased and estate grapes from their Winesap Vineyard. Success came quickly, as the 2003 Syrah earned a Platinum in Wine Press Northwest’s year-end best-ofthe-best competition in 2005, and two more wines from that vintage won Platinum again in 2006. Merlots from the 2004 and 2005 vintages subsequently won Platinums, too.

In 2007, the Zerbas hired Doug Nierman as winemaker.

Nierman, a Wenatchee Valley native, caught the winemaking bug a decade ago and moved to California to work at wineries in Sonoma and Napa before traveling to the University of California at Davis to earn a master’s

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winery of the year degree. He returned to the Walla Walla Valley to work at Long Shadows Vintners and Pepper Bridge Winery before taking over at Zerba. His first vintage there was an instant hit, with three of Zerba’s 2007 reds — Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Petit Verdot — winning Platinums last fall. His philosophy is straightforward.

“We’re pretty low-tech,” Nierman said with a laugh.

“We really try to keep everything separate. We have a lot of two-, three- and four-barrel lots, which ends up being a lot of extra work. But we keep them all separate until we get ready to sit down for blending and end up with a lot of tools and options.”

The Zerbas are glad to have Nierman, especially Cecil.

“I did winemaking by consensus,” he said. “Doug has the palate. He can determine what’s lacking in a wine and to bring it up. He’s just taken it to a whole new level.”

Nierman has a lot of great grapes from which to choose, as the Zerbas have three estate vineyards and a half-dozen others under contract, all in the Walla Walla Valley. In addition to “Dad’s Vineyard,” which is 4 acres, and Winesap,

officially be a Washington winery, too, but they ultimately figured out another way to open the Woodinville tasting room in May, just across from the Hollywood Schoolhouse. This was a great solution for reaching many of their 700-plus wine club members who live in the Seattle area.

They followed up in August with the Dundee tasting room. It’s on Highway 99W, where traffic continuously seems to be at a standstill in the small Yamhill County community. For the Zerbas, this was a natural and easy fit. For years, they had been participating in Oregon wine events in Astoria, Newport and McMinnville, so they already had a strong following in the Portland area.

“We weren’t sure how the Pinot guys were going to feel about us coming in there,” Cecil said. “But they are great about sending people our way.”

And he has no thoughts of adding a Pinot Noir to his already lengthy list of wines just to fit in.

“We could put up a sign that says, ‘Everything but Pinot,’ ” he said with a laugh.

British Columbia Winery to Watch:

Hours: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

Stoneboat Vineyards, Oliver

Directions: Take Ninth Street south from Walla

Idaho Winery of the Year:

Walla. This will turn into Highway 11. Just

Coeur d’Alene Cellars, Coeur d’Alene

after crossing the Oregon border, look for

Idaho Winery to Watch:

Zerba Cellars on the right in a log cabin.

Willamette Valley:

Puget Sound:

810 Highway 99W Dundee, OR 97115 503-537-9463

Davis Creek Cellars, Caldwell

Visiting Zerba Cellars

14525 148th Ave. N.E., Suite 114

Zerba Cellars has three locations:

Woodinville, WA 98072 425-806-2749

Walla Walla Valley:

Hours: Noon-6 p.m. Thursday-Sunday.

85530 Highway 11

Directions: The tasting room is across the

Milton-Freewater, OR 97862

street from the Hollywood Schoolhouse. If you

541-938-9463

are at Chateau Ste. Michelle, turn right and

which is 12 acres, the Zerbas also have Cockburn, a 188acre vineyard (60 planted) in the southeastern corner of the appellation. Here, they have 20 different varieties, among them Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Petite Sirah and Semillon. Planted in 2004, with new plantings three years ago, the vineyard is pretty much in full production.

“It’s up off the valley floor and has a ton of promise,” said Cecil, who handles all the viticulture. “Everything we grow there does well. It’s just a beautiful site.”

Not willing to stand still, last year the Zerbas opened two new tasting rooms, one in Woodinville and one in Dundee. As an Oregon winery — even though they are just a few hundred feet from the Washington border — the Zerbas have struggled to find their niche in the Evergreen State. At first, they flirted with the idea of opening a production facility in Walla Walla so they could

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head up the hill. At the second roundabout, take the third right. Turn left at the first driveway. The tasting room is on the lower level.

Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday Directions: If you are driving south through Dundee, the tasting room is on the right side, across from Argyle Winery.

For more information on Zerba Cellars, go to www.zerbacellars.com.

In fact, offering something others don’t have ends up being a positive for consumers as well as neighboring wineries, he said.

The strategy of having three tasting rooms has paid off greatly for the Zerbas, who have been able to weather the recession by reaching out directly to consumers.

“When you’re sending it to wholesale, you’re selling it at half-price and working harder to sell it,” Zerba said.

“That’s the reason for the tasting rooms. I’d much rather have someone come in and buy it directly from us than wait for a distributor to find shelf space for us.” ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page

designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website is WineCountryCreations.com

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Jarrod and Ali Boyle PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

washington ALEXANDRIA NICOLE winery of CELLARS / Prosser, Wash.

If awards were given for most miles the year driven, Jarrod Boyle might just be the winner.

The owner and winemaker of our 2011 Washington Winery of the Year keeps his odometer spinning, thanks to running tasting rooms in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser and Woodinville near Seattle. Then add another 40 miles from Prosser to his vineyard.

For Boyle, it’s all worth it to live the dream of being in the Washington wine industry.

“I am very fortunate,” he said humbly. “I am blessed to be surrounded by so many great people.”

Boyle grew up in Prosser and worked as the business Alexandria manager for a farm after college. In 1996, Wade Wolfe Nicole Cellars hired him to work as a viticulProsser: 2880 Lee Road, turist at Hogue Cellars. One Ste. D, 509-786-3497. day, he was in the Horse Open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

Heaven Hills to check on Woodinville: 14810 N.E. 145th St., 425-487-9463. grapes at famed Champoux Open noon-5 p.m.

Vineyard. As he drove down a Thursday-Monday and until gravel road past a field that 8 p.m. Friday. www.alexanwas mostly sagebrush and drianicolecellars.com. rocks, he envisioned it filled

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with vineyards. A little later that day, he saw friend Rob Mercer, whose family owned the land, and asked him about it. Rob and his father, Bud, were not interested in being in the wine industry at that time (they later partnered with Mike Hogue to create Mercer Estates), but the idea never left Boyle’s fertile mind.

“I didn’t have any money and no way to pull it off by myself,” he said.

In 1998, though, he partnered with the Mercers to plant what became Destiny Ridge, a 264-acre vineyard overlooking the Columbia River. In 2001, he launched Alexandria Nicole Cellars. The winery is named after his wife, Ali. Without any formal winemaking experience, he leaned heavily on others for help, including Wolfe, who owns Thurston Wolfe, as well as Dave Minnick of Willow Crest and Ray McKee, who got him through the early stages of the winery.

“It was baptism by fire,” he admitted.

Today, he makes about 10,000 cases of wine for Alexandria Nicole and has a tasting room near Hogue Cellars, where Thurston Wolfe was located for many years. In 2007, he opened a second tasting room in Woodinville — one of the first wineries from Eastern Washington to open a satellite operation there. The first location was in what is known as the “warehouse district.” He has since relocated to the Hollywood Schoolhouse, just up the street from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Both tasting rooms have secret rooms behind sliding walls, which are open only to wine club members.

“I’m a big fan of the people in our wine club,” he said.

“I wanted to provide something extra for them, something exclusive. The hidden door is kind of fun, and people really like that.”

Wine club members get a different wine each month, and to accommodate that, Boyle makes about 20 different bottlings — “way too many,” he admits — but everything he does focuses on creating a fun and unique opportunities for his fans and customers.

One experience that has turned into a huge deal is “glamping,” a word that means “glamorous camping.”

Customers can camp at the vineyard, but they aren’t roughing it by any stretch of the imagination.

What’s next for Boyle? He’s kicking around the idea of a third tasting room in Hood River, Ore., and he’s working on building up a second label called A Squared. He’s also working with Dogfish Head Brewery in Delaware on some unusual products. And he admits he’d love to start his own microbrewery.

“But I have enough to do right now,” he laughed.

— ANDY PERDUE W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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AWA R D S The Roberts family, left to right, Dana, Blain, Kim and Carrie.

PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM

WESTPORT WINERY / Aberdeen, Wash.

Even with 700 wineries, the pioneering spirit is alive and well in the Washington wine industry. Take the Roberts family, for example. Neither Blain nor Kim Roberts has an agricultural background, but they love wine and enjoy being near the ocean. A Washington State University county extension agent suggested they plant grapes on the coast, something that had never been done before.

So in 2007, they purchased land near Aberdeen, just 9 miles from the beach, and planted wine grapes, including Madeleine Angevine, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Cabernet Franc, bringing in plants from a Bellingham nursery. Their vineyard is — by far — the westernmost vineyard in Washington. So far, they have not produced a wine from estate grapes, instead relying on Columbia Valley vineyards until their vines are ready.

In addition to their 8 acres of vines, they have another 8 acres of berries and fruit trees, including cranberries, raspberries, huckleberries, Asian pears, apples and blueberries. As they are located on an area of Washington known as the “Cranberry Coast,” most of their cranberries for wine come from a nearby Ocean Spray operation.

Son Dana Roberts is the winemaker, having learned his skills at WSU, and daughter Carrie operates the tasting

washington winery to watch

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room and handles the finances.

The winery is easy to pick out, as it includes a 40-foottall scale model of the iconic Grays Harbor Lighthouse.

Kim, an architect by trade, said the choice was easy.

“We’re not in Tuscany, and we’re not going to pretend we’re in Tuscany,” she said with a laugh.

Westport produces a dizzying array of wines — 32 and counting. The strategy comes from when Blain and Kim owned the largest scuba diving business in Hawaii and worked hard to provide something for every customer.

“You find out what your customer wants, and you give it to them,” Kim said. “When someone comes in and asks, ‘Hey, do you have such and such?’ we do our best to produce it.”

Because they’re the only winery in the area and are able to draw in visitors who travel to Ocean Shores and other areas of the coast, they want to make sure they are providing a great experience. Westport’s first bottling was 2,100 cases, and the winery quickly sold out because of the local demand. This forced them to turn to fruit wines because of readily available sources, and that has turned into a booming business. As a result, nearly all of their wines are sold directly to consumers, with just a little available at retailers or restaurants.

The wines are meeting with critic acclaim. Both the 2008 and 2009 Boom Runner Reserve Merlot received “Outstanding!” ratings in the past year, as did its 2009 Jetty Cat red blend and 2009 sparkling Gewürztraminer.

As you can guess, Westport also is gaining a reputation for clever labels and names. Blain was a nationally ranked surfer in the 1970s, so “Surfer’s Last Syrah” was born. Pinot Noirvana, which uses Yakima Valley grapes, honors Aberdeen native Kurt Cobain of Nirvana fame. One of the biggest hits is “Bella,” a red blend that plays off the Twilight books and movies that are set in Forks, just up the coast.

Proceeds from Bella benefit the local blood bank.

And to continue making Westport a true destination winery, the family opened an on-site restaurant in October, led by Erin Worth, a graduate of Western Culinary Institute in Portland who also has worked for Tom Douglas. She and her two chefs use herbs and produce grown on site, as well as fresh regional ingredients.

Kim said their take on beef Wellington, called “beef Washington,” is a local hit. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Thursdays through Sundays.

What seemed like a long shot just a half-decade ago has turned into a hit. Breaking the rules seems to help.

“We’re not conventional,” Kim said with a chuckle.

“That’s one of the fun things about us. We’re introducing people to wines.”

Westport Winery The quality of Westport’s 1 S. Arbor Road, Aberdeen, wines keeps them coming WA 98520, 360-648-2224, westportwines.org. Open back. — ANDY PERDUE daily at 11 a.m.

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AWA R D S ers, and Bernau is the CEO. He started out by purchasing 40 acres of land near the Enchanted Forest amusement park south of Salem.

He bought vines from Susan Sokol Blosser in Dundee and the Casteel brothers at Bethel Heights near Salem, who didn’t charge interest as a way to help out the enthusiastic entrepreneur.

The first harvest was in 1989.

Dean Cox came on as Willamette Valley Vineyards’ winemaker and brought in Forrest Klaffke as his assistant. Cox died of a heart attack in the middle of harvest in 1995, and Joe Dobbes came in and helped as a consultant. Dobbes Jim Bernau returned the following summer as head winemaker, a post he held PHOTO COURTESY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS until 2002. Klaffke has been head winemaker since 2002.

WILLAMETTE VALLEY In 1997, Bernau purchased Tualatin Estate near Forest VINEYARDS / Turner, Ore. Grove, one of Oregon’s oldest vineyards.

Jim Bernau didn’t start out wanting to “That was one of our big breaks,” Bernau said. make great Pinot Noir or build one of “(Founder Bill Fuller) had 83 acres of vines planted in Oregon’s largest wineries. He was just 1973. It’s one of Oregon’s treasured vineyards, and that’s a guy from Roseburg whose father was hired by Richard where our best fruit comes from.”

Sommer, the granddaddy of Oregon Pinot Noir, to do Bernau has since expanded the vineyard to 200 acres some legal work for HillCrest Vineyard. of vines.

In the early 1980s, Bernau was hired to develop a About the same time, Dobbes saw an opportunity with white paper to explain to state lawmakers why they Rogue Valley grapes, and Bernau created the Griffin should support the Oregon wine industry by creating the Creek label. At 2,500 cases, it’s a small part of Willamette Oregon Wine Advisory Board. The legislation passed in Valley Vineyards total case production that nears 100,000 1983, a year before the federal government approved the cases, but the brand has performed well for Bernau.

Willamette Valley as an American Viticulture Area.

Now, Bernau has leased revered Elton Vineyards and By that time, Bernau was bitten by the wine bug and has purchased an adjacent 80 acres. smitten with the idea of getting into the industry. But he “It’s going to take me another 15 years to see the didn’t have the means to get started and came up with a results of that effort,” said Bernau, who at 57 years old novel approach: stockholders. has no intention of slowing down.

“I worked my way through He’s also helped revive interest in Oregon Riesling, college by working in a producing more than 20,000 cases. He’d like more, but Willamette sawmill,” the energetic Bernau most growers are interested in putting Pinot Noir or said. “I had no resources. My Valley Pinot Gris in the ground. idea was to build a world-class “We made a lot of Riesling in the early days because I Vineyards winery by organizing many had to pay the bills,” he said with a laugh. “I couldn’t 8800 Enchanted Way S.E., wine enthusiasts, and the only afford not to make Riesling.”

Turner, OR 97392, 503way to do that was with a pubBut his passion has always been with Pinot Noir, the 588-8894, www.wvv.com. lic stock offering. It was never The tasting room is open alluring grape that has bewitched many an Oregon wine my original intention, but it from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. enthusiast. Today, Bernau and his team craft a dozen difdaily. The Tualatin Estate was the only way for me to do ferent bottlings of Pinot Noir. tasting room in Forest it. I didn’t know any wealthy “We’re concentrating on improving our Pinot Noir Grove is open noon-5 p.m. people, just people like me.” plantings,” he said. “The whole idea behind Willamette weekends from March Today, Willamette Valley Valley Vineyards is making classic cool-climate wines.” through December.

Vineyards has 5,000 stockhold— ANDY PERDUE

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AWA R D S Northwest Vitculture Center and once served as dean of students.

“This is a dream job.”

The winery’s inaugural vintage was 2006, and Illahe’s focus has been on Pinot Noir, which accounts for more than half of its 2,700 cases. The rest is divided between Viognier, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, and Brad, 40, is adding a rosé made from Tempranillo. Only the Viognier is from purchased fruit.

The wines have been generally superb so far, with the 2008 Pinot Noir earning our top “Outstanding!” rating and the 2009 Viognier an “Excellent.”

In addition to honing his winemaking skills, Brad also is focused on getting back to basics. The winery is been LIVE (low-input viticulture and enology) certified and Salmon Safe, not unusual for Oregon wineries. But Brad is taking it a few steps further.

“My main focus is on historical Pinot Noir production methods,” he said.

This includes using horses instead of tractors in the vineyard, using wood instead of plastic or metal when possible and generally being less mechanical.

“I think it is important to avoid push-button winemaking and not just rely on machines and technology. Everybody knows how winemaking works with machines.”

PHOTO BY JACKIE JOHNSTON/WINECOUNTRYCREATIONS.COM This includes relying on native fermentations, and he is even having some clay fermenters made ILLAHE VINEYARDS / Dallas, Ore. and plans to bury them to see how they perform, pointing out that the ambient temperature of soil is perfect When it comes to being good stewards for fermentations. He plans to put his theories to the of the land, many wineries talk the test with a few lots before moving forward. He also plans talk. Illahe Vineyards near Salem walks to dig a cave in the side of the hill at the estate and use the walk. Right down to its name. only candlelight in it. He hopes to get to that project as Our 2011 Oregon Winery to Watch is early as next year, after the winery adds a tasting room a family operation, led by Lowell Ford, and a patio for entertaining guests. who began planting wine grapes in 1983 and selling Illahe’s success has primarily been within the family, them to other wineries. In the mid-’90s, he planted with Lowell overseeing viticulture and sales and Brad’s Glenn Creek Vineyard in West Salem. Then in 2000, he wife, Bethany, serving as national sales manager. Brad’s planted Illahe, a 53-acre vineyard not far from famed mom, Pauline, helps during harvest and with special Freedom Hill Vineyard. The name Illahe is a Chinook events. word for “land” or “soil.” Winemaker Brad Ford, Lowell’s Illahe’s wines are available in 18 states, with the vast son, likens it to a Northwest version of the French term majority in the Portland and Salem markets. They can be terroir. For the first two harvests, the grapes were sold to found at such locations as New Seasons, Fred Meyer and nearby wineries, including Cristom, Evesham Wood and Whole Foods, as well as such wine merchants as E&R, Bethel Heights. They still receive about two-thirds of the Liner & Elsen, Oregon Wines on Broadway, Vino, Avalon grapes each year. and Woodstock. In the Seattle area, Illahe wines are sold Brad was a grant writer before becoming a winemaker, at Town & Country Markets, an odd career path but one that has been rewarding.

PCC Natural Markets, “People actually call me up to talk about winemaking,” McCarthy & Shiering in he said, chuckling. “Nobody wanted to know about my Illahe Vineyards Queen Anne and Bin 41 in grant-writing work. Dad bought this property, and I saw 3275 Ballard Road, Dallas, West Seattle. — ANDY an opportunity.”

OR 97338, 503-831-1248, PERDUE www.illahevineyards.com.

He studied winemaking at Chemeketa Community Open by appointment.

College near Salem, where Lowell helped to establish the The Ford family, left to right, Lowell, Pauline, Brad and Bethany.

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Adam Pearce, Julie Rennie, Paul Gardner PHOTO BY J. KEVIN DUNN

PENTÂGE WINERY / Penticton, B.C. Followers of British Columbia wine would have to be living in a cave to miss the continuous mining of medals

by Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie at Pentâge Winery.

Last year, they earned gold at the Northwest Wine Summit for the 2008 Pinot Gris, the 2009 Rosé and 2009 Slow Vineyards Icewine.

The All-Canadian Wine Championships also recognized the 2008 Pinot Gris and the Pentâge 2009 Gewürztraminer as a gold, and the wine went on to earn a 2010 Platinum in Wine Press Northwest’s annual best-of-thebest competition.

It continued a trend for Pentâge, which garnered a Platinum the year prior for its 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon.

Such consistent excellence makes Pentâge our 2011 B.C. Winery of the Year.

“We’ve been at this since 1996, so with another three years of hard work, maybe we can rest a little,” Gardner said with a smile. “Our focus is making small lots of excellent wine.”

The 60-case production of 2009 ice wine went on to finish third overall in Wine Press Northwest’s regional judging of ice wine in 2010. That wine continued to flash Pentâge’s knack for blending as it gathered up five white varieties — Semillon, Muscat, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier — for a remarkable dessert drink.

Ironically, Gardner and Rennie named their winery after the Greek word “penta,” which translates to “five” – a reference to the number of red varieties they first planted Pentâge Winery on their estate and used for 4400 Lakeside Road, their original red blend of Penticton, BC., V2A 8WC, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet 250-493-4008, Franc, Merlot, Syrah and www.pentage.com.

Gamay.

british columbia winery of the year

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The Gamay now is featured by Gardner and young winemaker Adam Pearce for Pentâge’s highly sought-after pink.

“It’s not a sexy grape, but I was advised to grow it in 1996 by Richard Cleave, one of the pioneers,” Gardner said. “He thought it would be a great varietal for the Okanagan Valley, and I love the grape.”

Around the same time, Gardner, a former marine engineer, also began receiving winemaking expertise from up above.

“I was lucky that first year,” he said. “When I was contouring the slopes, my neighbor was looking down on this show that was going on. It happened to be Mark Wendenburg from Sumac Ridge, and if there is someone who knows winemaking in the valley, it would be Mark.

Well, he mentored us in the first year. We’ve met other winemakers along the way, and they’ve been a great source of knowledge and help.”

Pearce arrived in 2008 from Ontario’s Niagara region, and he’s helped Pentâge achieve success with full-bodied reds, too. Wine Press Northwest recently deemed its 2006 Merlot and 2007 Syrah as “Excellent.”

However, one may get a sense that Gardner’s true passion is trellised to the vineyard.

Between his original Vista Ridge Vineyard and the new Dirty Dozen parcel, Gardner works with 13 varieties. His Rhône varieties also include Grenache, Marsanne, Mourvèdre and Roussanne. Gardner’s “spice reds” in production are Malbec, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo and Zinfandel.

But wines and vines aren’t the only driving forces on the 23 acres overlooking Skaha Lake, with the Penticton skyline to the north. There’s also a remarkable cave project, “which seems to go on forever,” Gardner said with a smirk.

“In 2000, we found that a natural feature of granite from the Skaha Bluffs goes right through the property and that it was possible to do a cave,” Gardner said. “It works thermally. The barrels love it because the humidity is about 75 percent, so it’s a no-brainer. On this property, you don’t just get the big flat space where you can put a building. It optimizes the land, and I like to think that it’s ‘green.’ ” Now, it plays host to special events and safeguards much of the 4,000-case production. So much for those days Gardner spent “dabbling as a home winemaker” in 1995.

“I was happily living in Vancouver, but I always wanted to have a piece of land — property to walk around on — and I had the interest in grapes,” Gardner said. “Julie was encouraging me to leave the house, and we came up to the Okanagan for the weekend. By fluke, we stumbled upon this property. It was little bit more than we wanted, but two months later we owned it.”

And B.C. wine lovers are digging it. — ERIC DEGERMAN W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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AWA R D S Adrian Cassini

PHOTO BY J. KEVIN DUNN

CASSINI CELLARS / Oliver, B.C. How hot is Cassini Cellars?

The owner recently changed his last name back to Cassini — the family surname until his grandfather left Italy for Romania following World War I. And based on the scoring of Wine Press Northwest’s 2010 Platinum Competition, Adrian Cassini has reason to be proud. His young winery along the Golden Mile produced British Columbia’s best red last year — the 2008 Collector’s Series Syrah from the Okanagan Valley.

It earned a Platinum and was judged to be the secondbest Syrah in the 11th annual collection of Northwest gold-medal winners, qualifying with a gold at the AllCanadian Wine Championships. The ACWC also gave his 2008 Nobilus Merlot a double gold and 2007 Maximus blend a gold. At the inaugural B.C. Wine Awards, critics handed his 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir a gold.

Still, our 2011 B.C. Winery to Watch struggles to convince his extended family in Romania that his wine is golden.

“They still believe the wine back home is better,” he said with a chuckle. “They say, ‘Canada? You’ve got to be kidding?’ Few people know of the pocket desert we have in the Okanagan Valley.”

Cassini started making wine in 2007, and he hired one of the province’s top winemakers, Philip Soo, as a consultant.

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“He’s a very educated man, and he knows quite a bit about barrels and blending,” Cassini said. “At the end of the day, we make a good team.”

While this is a third career for Cassini, the juice is in his blood. His family tended vines for many years. “You are only allowed to grow the grapes in Romania. You have to sell them to the government,” he said.

Back home, he managed nightclubs and restaurants. In Canada, he came to own a group of fitness clubs and ran construction in the Vancouver area until 2005 when he cashed in his chips and moved to the Okanagan Valley.

“Don’t we call that a midlife crisis?” he said. “I made my own wine all the time, so my interest grew. And I always wanted to retire and walk my dog in the vineyard.”

The quality of the wines definitely makes Cassini Cellars known for what it is, rather than what the property used to be — a huge lavender nursery between Oliver and Osoyoos. When he got started in 2006, the land came with 8,000 lavender plants.

“It was a shame to think about burning the plants, so we did the excavation, scooped up the plants and put the word out,” Cassini said. “By 8 a.m. the next morning, we had 20 to 30 cars waiting.”

That set the stage for Cassini to build his winery and begin planting 5 acres of vines, which include Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Gris and smaller blocks of Syrah and Malbec. Between those and purchased fruit, he’ll also bottle Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne, two styles of Chardonnay and two Syrahs.

“I am very interested in Syrah in the Okanagan,” he said. “It’s like rediscovering the wheel for me. The wines can be so intense and so dramatic. It’s like magic. I see lots of future in this.”

Just don’t lose the notes from the 2008 Collector’s Series.

“I changed the barrel program in 2008 and got more extraction, more color and more attitude from the Syrah,” he said. “It became more intense, but to get all the flavors we’re going to have more alcohol. It’s not hot, though, and I’m not one of the big boys who can pay to get the alcohol out of the wine.”

His case production is 4,500. He could ramp up to 6,000 — that is if he can muster the energy to do so after building a cave for storage and summer events.

“I have to run the business, the vineyard, the labels, the girls in the tasting room, handle the PR and do the schmoozing with my customers,” he said. “I’ve never worked this much in my life, but when I’m in the vineyard at 5 in the morning, I feel like a million bucks. It’s because I have a good team in the tasting room and the Okanagan is heaven. Wine Cassini Cellars 32056 Highway 97, Oliver, is good, and I enjoy drinkBC, V0H 1T0, 250-485-4370, ing wine.” cassini.ca — ERIC DEGERMAN

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Bill and Bev Fraser PHOTO BY KATHERINE JONES/IDAHO STATESMAN

FRASER VINEYARD / Boise, Idaho By the sounds of it, Bill Fraser might try to convince you that the best part about being a winemaker in Idaho is that it doesn’t get in the way of his winter fun.

“I only work April to October,” Fraser chuckled. “We just got back from Mexico, and then we’re heading to Sun Valley because I like to ski.

This really is a great job.”

It’s obvious there’s much more work being done at Fraser Vineyard in the Snake River Valley than he lets on.

Sure, he works with small lots and his total production doesn’t top 1,000 cases, but Fraser dotes on his vines in Caldwell and the barrels at his winery near Boise State University’s famous football stadium.

The results make it easy to name Fraser Vineyard as Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Idaho Winery of the Year.

“Idaho needs five more winemakers like Bill who want to increase production to 10,000 cases a year,” said Gary Cunningham of 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards in Eagle, Idaho.

“Nothing would make me happier than to get Bill to change his mind and get bigger.”

The consumer stands to benFraser Vineyard 10004 La Pointe St., Boise, efit from there being more ID, 208-345-9607, Fraser Vineyard wines. After all, fraservineyard.com his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

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was voted Best Red and Best in Show at the 2010 Idaho Wine Competition. Two others that still haven’t been released — 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 Malbec — also earned gold medals at the October judging.

Last spring, his 2008 Randonée, a 50/50 split of Malbec and Syrah, received an “Outstanding!” from Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. The 2007 Couloir Cuvée, a blend of Merlot (76 percent) with Cabernet Sauvignon, rated an “Excellent” and appeared in our Best Buy category because it retailed for a mere $14.

“I prefer the Bordeaux varieties more for my personal drinking, and Syrah is not one of my favorites, but you’ve got to plant and grow what does well here,” Fraser said.

So he makes Syrah from Skyline and Sawtooth vineyards. This spring, he’ll release his first Petite Sirah, which came off Williamson and Skyline.

Only three varieties are planted at his estate — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and Fraser, 62, seems content. That’s because it took such work getting to this point after spending more than three decades in the Boise construction business.

And starting a winery outside of Idaho wasn’t a consideration, either. After all, he’s a fourth-generation Idahoan, starting with his great-grandfather who ran a ferry across the Snake River during the Civil War. “My wife and I planted the vineyard in 2003, and we did all the work ourselves — including the trellising, the drip irrigation and the 4,000 postholes,” he said. “It’s pretty frightening when you think about it. You spend three years just to get your first crop, then it goes into barrel for two years, then you bottle it and say to yourself, ‘Geez, I hope someone is going to buy it.’ ” The wines off his 5 acres practically sell themselves, which is a good thing.

“I’m very shy, and this is difficult talking about this,” Fraser said.

On the other hand, his ponytail attracts attention.

“It drives my wife nuts,” he said. “It goes back to the Bush years. I should cut it off, but it’s kind of the winemaker affectation.”

Over the years, Fraser leaned on several winemakers for advice, including Steve McCarthy of Frenchman’s Gulch Winery in Sun Valley, who also sports a ponytail.

There’s also Leslie Preston — “Leslie is really good at chemistry, and I certainly wasn’t a chemistry major in college” — Gina Davis (Davis Creek), Greg Koenig, Melanie Krause (Cinder) and Angie Riff (Periple).

“We’re all pretty close, and we get together quite a bit,” Fraser said.

And who wouldn’t want to drink his wines?

“We’ve started this up, and it’s taken off,” he said. “I was in construction for so long, and this is an entire new group of people — the restaurants, the retailers, the farmers and the people who stop by to buy wine. It’s all been fun.” — ERIC DEGERMAN W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Greg and Martha Cunningham PHOTO BY KATHERINE JONES/IDAHO STATESMAN

3 HORSE RANCH VINEYARDS / Eagle, Idaho Greg Cunningham made his nest egg as a marketing whiz, and he also seems to be a rather quick study when it comes to growing grapes in the Snake River Valley.

He’ll be the first to admit, however, the smartest move he’s made as owner of 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards in Eagle, Idaho, was hiring Greg Koenig.

“A good winemaker isn’t defined by one good wine that might have come during a great vintage,” Cunningham said.

“Greg has made good wines in Idaho for close to 20 years.”

That partnership shows in the bottles from the Idaho’s largest organic vineyard for the state’s third-largest winery. Those factors, combined with Cunningham’s drive to elevate the perception of Gem State wines, led to 3 Horse Ranch Vineyard being named as Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Idaho Winery to Watch.

In less than five years, 3 Horse Ranch became the state’s largest family-owned winery. Their first vintage, 2006, produced fewer than 1,000 cases. That allowed the Cunninghams to open in 2008. By 2010, despite a cool season, production jumped to 7,000 cases.

“Normally, we’d have a dozen days of 100-degree temperatures,” Cunningham said. “One year, there were 23 days in a row. Last year, we had just one 100-degree day.”

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The target for 2011 is to produce 10,000 cases, and he’ll continue to purchase Riesling and additional varieties from other Idaho vineyards. It explains why Cunningham plans to build a production facility on the ranch for Koenig, who lives 40 miles to the southwest and makes wine for three wineries — including his own Koenig Vineyards.

Cunningham said he’s increasing production to meet demand and maintain shelf space year-round. One key is training his staff to work with distributors, but he’s also hand-selling bottles throughout Idaho, pouring at places such as the Fred Meyer in Coeur d’Alene.

Curious shoppers leave as educated buyers because they enjoy the wine, embrace the organic concept and want to support Idaho industry, Cunningham said. He’s also opened markets in Washington, Montana and Wyoming, and he’d like his colleagues to follow. But perhaps every Idaho winery should revisit its marketing approach to its own state.

“Between 70 and 80 percent of the wine sold in Idaho is made in California,” Cunningham said. “We need to have the consumer in Idaho trust our products. And the growth of Idaho’s wine industry depends on people planting great vineyards. When you have to go out of state to buy grapes, you rarely get the best fruit.”

Idaho long has been known for Riesling and off-dry reds, yet the Snake River Valley’s future may be best linked to Rhône varieties. It’s no coincidence that Wine Press Northwest has awarded its top rating of “Outstanding!” to a pair of 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards wines — the 2008 Estate Viognier and the 2008 Reserve Syrah.

Just before that harvest, the vineyard that sits at 2,800 feet elevation was certified as organic.

There’s room to grow, too. Of the 500 acres deemed suitable for wine grapes, fewer than 40 have been planted.

“When we moved to the ranch, there were three of us — our daughter, Gary and myself — and three horses,” said wife, Martha. “That was in 1998. And we still have three horses.”

Cunningham left Sacramento, Calif., after a successful career in the world of corporate business travel. He and Martha lived eight years in McCall before buying 1,600 acres in the Eagle Foothills on a dirt road that’s not so lonely anymore. They began planting vines in 2003.

“I used to play golf five days a week and got down to 2-handicap, but you can’t play that game and own a vineyard,” he said. “I miss the game, but I love the vineyard more. I don’t think I played more than six rounds in 2010.”

This year, one of his top priorities is working with Koenig to extend their longterm relationship.

“My life is no longer about 3 Horse Ranch age. It’s about vintages,” said Vineyards Cunningham, 61. “I want to 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards, live long enough to see 5900 Pearl Road, Eagle, ID, where this goes.”

83616, 208-863-6561, 3horseranchvineyards.com — ERIC DEGERMAN

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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories:

Pinot Noir Familiar producers win honors along with some rising stars

BY ANDY PERDUE P HOT OGRA P HS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

I

s 2008 the best vintage for Oregon Pinot Noir ever? We won’t bother getting into that debate, but those wines on store shelves right now are generally superb, at least according to our judging of Northwest Pinot Noirs.

And not just in Oregon. The top wine in our competition of 170 Pinot Noirs actually came from north of the 49th parallel. But the vast majority of our top wines came from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where Pinot Noir makes up more than 50 percent of the total tonnage each year. And the 2008 vintage was one to remember. It was a cool spring and summer, and average yields were barely 2 tons per acre for Pinot Noir, low even by Oregon standards.

Growers finally got a break late in the season with little rainfall and enough sun to ripen the grapes to near perfection.

This has left fans and critics alike raving about the 2008 wines, which are quickly selling out.

Of the 24 wines that earned our top “Outstanding” rating, 18 were from 2008.

Amid the top wines, we see many familiar longtime producers, including Chehalem, Erath, Sokol Blosser, Solena, Owen Roe and Henry Estate.

We also found some emerging stars, including J. Daan, Le Cadeau, Dukes and Redman, all wineries in the Willamette Valley.

Erath, which was purchased by

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Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in 2006, had three wines earning an “Outstanding” rating, all from smallproduction vineyard-designated bottlings. And Le Cadeau, whose estate vineyard is on Parrett Mountain near Newberg, had two wines amid our top picks.

We tasted wines from all four regions of the Pacific Northwest, and each had at least one wine among the top 24, showing the adaptability of the notoriously fickle grape.

Our judges for this competition were: Kate Michaud, winemaker for Covey Run; Winnie Alberg, a wine judge from Ellensburg, Wash.; Kerry Norton, winemaker for Columbia Winery; Dave Seaver, Wine Press Northwest tasting panelist; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; and Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. It was held at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick in mid-February.

Here are the wines:

OUTSTANDING La Frenz $32 CDN 2008 100 Series Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Jeff Martin has been setting the bar higher not only in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley but also the entire Northwest since arriving in the mid-1990s.

He’s now established himself as one of the finest winemakers anywhere, and this suave Pinot Noir reveals his versatility with a broad range of varieties. This wine opens with aromas of black cherries and spicy chocolate. It further shows its greatness on the palate with subtle flavors of alluring red and black fruit and a rich palate, all backed with subtle acidi-

Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Best Buy! A wine that is $15 or under.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted.

CDN: Canadian dollars.

ty and tannin. The complexity grows and crescendos on the lengthy finish. (500 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Chehalem Wines $44 2008 Ridgecrest Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Harry Peterson-Nedry set his roots in rich Willamette Valley soil when he began planting Pinot Noir on Ribbon Ridge in 1980. In the three decades since, he has established himself as one of the northern Willamette Valley’s most important figures, pushing quality and definition in his beloved Pinot Noir. These grapes came from his original plantings in the Northwest’s smallest appellation. Aromas of wild strawberries, caramel and tobacco leaf draw you into flavors of raspberries, rhubarb and hints of new leather. Bright acidity and silky tannins allow the fruit to sashay to a beautiful finish. (592 cases, 12.7% alc.)

Erath Winery $50 2008 Leland Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Gary Horner is taking one of Oregon’s oldest producers to greater levels of excellence. Leland Vineyard near Oregon City has been a staple for Erath for more than two decades, and in Horner’s hands, its grapes rise to the pinnacle of quality. This opens with complex aromas of cinnamon, raspberries, cherries and chocolate. On the palate, the flavors include classic notes of high-toned red fruit with hints of oak. It’s the velvety, ethereal texture that raises this wine above others.

(420 cases, 13% alc.)

Erath Winery $50 2008 Prince Hill 777 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This wine not only is from one of winemaker Gary Horner’s favorite vineyards, but it also is all crafted from the 777 Dijon clone. It is not often thought of as a version of Pinot Noir that can stand alone, but it is so beautiful and alluring in this particular bottling. It opens with aromas of fresh raspberries, strawberries, violets, hazelnuts and Graham crackers, followed by plush, delicious flavors of

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wild strawberries and bright red cherries, all backed with smooth, elegant and understated tannins. (214 cases, 13.5% alc.)

J. Daan Wine Cellars $20 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Justin and Megan Van Zanten own this small winery in the Yamhill County town of Carlton. They produce three different Pinot Noirs, with this being their largest production. It uses grapes from Croft-Williamson and Apolloni vineyards and is a superb example of Oregon Pinot Noir. It opens with subtle aromas of raspberries, cherries and flowers with a hint of mocha. On the palate, it leads with a rich entry that gives way to a velvety midpalate of ripe red fruit and an elegant, dream-like finish. (450 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard $47 2008 Équinoxe Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Tom and Deb Mortimer farm in a rocky area atop Parrett Mountain near Newberg, Ore., a distinctive area in the northern Willamette Valley that could one day become a separate appellation. This wine cer-

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tainly helps make a case for that, thanks to its aromas of spicy red cherries and hints of oak, followed by flavors of black cherries, racy cranberries, black pepper, dark chocolate and sweet, mild tannins on the finish. (196 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Aubichon Cellars $38 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This winery in the Yamhill County town of Dundee is a collaboration between Le Cadeau’s Tom Mortimer and winemaker Jim Sanders. This new release is a gorgeous wine with aromas of pomegranates, cherries, strawberries and French vanilla. It’s beautifully complex on the palate with flavors of Rainier cherries, ripe strawberries and even a hint of blueberries.

Mild tannins provide harmonious balance to this elegant wine. (251 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Erath Winery $50 2008 Prince Hill 115 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This is one of four Pinot Noirs that Erath crafts from Prince Hill, so you get the feeling winemaker Gary Horner thinks the vineyard is more than a little special. This

wine is made exclusively from the Dijon 115 clone, a version of Pinot Noir that tends to reveal darker, more powerful fruit. This wine offers elegant aromas of cherries, raspberries and vanilla, followed by beautifully balanced flavors of Rainier cherries and cranberries, all backed up with bright acidity and refined tannins. (224 cases, 13% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery $25 2008 Estate Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley Washington’s lone wine amid our top-rated Pinot Noirs is fairly unusual, as it’s blended with 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Pinot Noir grapes come from the Lake Chelan AVA, while the Cab is from Rivers Bend Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It would seem the Cab plays a small role in this wine, as it certainly didn’t take away the Pinot’s characteristics of cranberries and cherries. Smooth, silky tannins back up the bright red fruit and give way to a long, elegant finish. (497 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Mission Hill Family Estate $20 CDN 2009 Five Vineyards Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley This line of wines from one of British

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Columbia’s most famous producers uses grapes from five distictive vineyards in the Okanagan Valley, stretching from the U.S. border near Osoyoos to Kelowna in the center of the valley. The range of vineyards undoubtedly ads to the complexity of this wine, which reveals aromas of wildflowers and cherries, followed by fruit-laden flavors of cherries and raspberries. Elegant tannins and acidity provide all the necessary balance. (2,900 cases, 13% alc.)

Sokol Blosser Winery $38 2008 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The second generation has taken over this iconic winery in Oregon’s Dundee Hills. The vineyard was planted beginning in 1971 by Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser, and today is run by siblings Alex and Alison Sokol Blosser. This superb wine is a tribute to this pioneering winery’s relentless efforts for the past 40 years. It reveals aromas of violets, oregano and spices, followed by elegant flavors of cherries and red currants. The tannins are

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firm yet silky. (6,308 cases, 14% alc.)

ADEA Wine Co. $45 2008 Hawks View Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains The Fisher family began planting Pinot Noir in 1990 and launched their winery five years later. From its winery in Gaston, ADEA now makes no fewer than seven Pinot Noirs. The grapes for this come from famed Hawks View, a 45-acre vineyard near the town of Sherwood. This wine shows restrained elegance from first whiff through the memorable finish. It opens with aromas of moist, minerally earth, cherries and even a hint of orange zest, followed by flavors of Rainier cherries, cranberries an nutmeg, all backed with plump, soft tannins.

(164 cases, 14% alc.)

Anne Amie Vineyards $35 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley After purchasing Chateau Benoit in the late 1990s, Oregon entrepreneur Robert Pamplin set about changing just about everything, including the name. Today, Anne Amie is well known for Pinot Noir, and winemaker

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Thomas Houseman relied on no fewer than 13 vineyards to craft this elegant and complete wine. It opens with aromas of fresh cherries, pomegranates, cinnamon and just a whiff of smokiness. Bright, ripe red fruit lead on the palate, all backed with ample acidity and rustic texture. (2,600 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Carlton Cellars $20 2008 Seven Devils Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Owner Dave Grooters pays tribute to the wild Oregon Coast in his various bottlings, and this affordable Pinot Noir was inspired by an area near Bandon on the southern coast. It opens with aromas of brown sugar, black cherries and wild strawberries, followed by a plush entry that gives way to flavors of sweet, smooth fruit and round, supple tannins. It’s rich, dark, complex and a bit on the hedonistic side. (600 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Dukes Family Vineyards $48 2008 Alyssa Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This young winery takes advantage of estate grapes from its vineyards on the northern

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end of the Eola-Amity Hills near the town of Amity. This wine honors owners Pat and Jackie Dukes’ daughter. It is a beautiful wine with aromas of rose petals, strawberries and raspberries, followed by flavors of strawberries, candied cherries and even oatmeal cookies. (425 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Indian Creek Winery $15 2008 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley The least-expensive wine in our judging also was one of the best and is a tribute to the opportunities that await in Idaho’s high-elevation vineyards. This wine offers aromas of violets, strawberries and Rainier cherries, followed by flavors of cranberries and red plums. It opens with bright elegant fruit that gives way to a rich midpalate and finish. (700 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Owen Roe $42 2009 The Kilmore Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District Northwest wine lovers expect nothing less than exceptional wines from David O’Reilly. This is one of four Pinot Noirs he makes at Owen Roe, and he relies on fruit from three vineyards: Lenne, Merriman and Kalita.

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This opens with aromas of strawberries, cinnamon and black cherry jam on toast, followed by flavors of dark cherries, raspberries and alluring spices, all backed with intense yet refined tannins. (206 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Redman Wines $30 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Cathy and the late Bill Redman fell in love with Oregon Pinot Noir in 1978 during a tasting in Portland. In 2004, they decided to enter the industry, buying a hazelnut orchard on Ribbon Ridge and replanting it with vines between 2005 and 2007. This is one of two Pinot Noirs they produced, both from estate fruit. Scott Schull of Raptor Ridge made this wine after Bill was stricken with cancer. It opens with aromas of bright cherries and a hint of smokiness, followed by flavors loaded with raspberries, cherries and blackberries.

It’s reticent at first but blossoms into a rich and ripe wine through the complex and lengthy finish. (420 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Soléna Estate $50 2008 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville Bordeaux-trained winemaker

Laurent Montalieu is one of Oregon’s best and most respected winemakers, and his fingerprints can be found on the wines of 25 different wineries. In 2007, he and wife Danielle purchased Hyland, a 100-acre vineyard first planted in 1972. This opens with aromas of exotic spices, cranberries and lavender, followed by flavors of ripe cherries, sweet herbs and cocoa powder on the finish. (300 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Henry Estate $30 2006 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley It should come as no surprise that this is the top Pinot Noir from Southern Oregon, as the Henry family has been crafting superb wines since the 1970s. Scott Henry brought his family from California in 1972 and began planting grapes, including Pinot Noir. His son, Scotty, oversees winemaking duties. This superb offering opens with aromas of rose hips, cherries and cedar shavings, followed by bright flavors of Rainier and Bing cherries with elegant acidity and moderate tannins that yield to the fruit. (700 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2008 Rocheux Pinot Noir, Chehalem

$47

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Mountains The grapes for this wine come from the rocky side of Tom and Deb Mortimer’s vineyard atop Parrett Mountain in the northern Willamette Valley. Grapes do not grow easily here, and the vines’ struggle focuses intensity and complexity in the wine.

This reveals aromas of boysenberries, black cherries, black olives and even a whisper of fudge, followed by supple flavors of red and black fruit, hints of herbs and beautifully balanced tannins. (205 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery $30 CDN 2009 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Between the high-quality wines, estate vineyard, restaurant and resort accommodations, Burrowing Owl has created a wine experience like no other. The 140-acre vineyard and winery are just over the U.S. border in the scenic southern Okanagan Valley. This Pinot Noir is nothing short of remarkable, opening with aromas of black raspberries, lavender, spices and vanilla, followed by intense flavors of pomegranates, raspberries, cherries and cloves. A sprinkle of cocoa powder enhances the

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lengthy finish. (1,050 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $38 2008 Ferris Wheel Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Terry and Sue Brandborg moved from San Francisco to the hamlet of Elkton, Ore., with the intention of crafting great Pinot Noir. This sublime example comes from their estate vineyard high in the hills above Elkton. It opens with aromas of black olives, cherries and hints of chocolate, followed by plush flavors of boysenberries, blueberries and cherries. Hints of sweet herbs and moderate tannins balance the ample fruit through the lengthy finish. (280 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Summerhill Pyramid Winery $30 CDN NV Cipes Rosé Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley The lone sparkling wine in our competition is a superb offering from Steve Cipes’ Kelowna, B.C., winery and pyramid. He stores his wines in his scale model of the Cheops Pyramid, which he believes ages the wine differently because of its energy. His proof is in this bottle. The bubbly is delicious, with aromas of fresh strawberries and pie cherries,

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followed by clean, tart flavors of strawberries.

(750 cases, 12% alc.)

EXCELLENT Tyee Wine Cellars $32 2008 Estate Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This longtime Corvallis winery has long been known for its distinctive Pinot Noirs. Second-generation winemaker Merrilee Buchanan Benson has crafted a superb wine with aromas of Rainier cherries and raspberries, along with flavors of cranberries, pomegranates and bright cherries. (100 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Carabella Vineyard $37 2008 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Using grapes from the 58-acre estate vineyard on Parrett Mountain, winemaker Mike Hallock has crafted a superior Pinot Noir with aromas of ripe strawberries, leather, vanilla and cedar shavings, followed by succulent flavors of ripe fruit, a hint of tar and moderate tannins. (650

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cases, 14.5% alc.)

Duck Pond Cellars $20 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley One of the larger production levels of Oregon Pinot Noir, this also is an affordable favorite from a Dundee producer. This opens with lovely aromas of white pepper, lilac, strawberries and cedar, followed by rich, spicy flavors of cherries. It’s all backed with bright acidity and modest tannins. (18,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Willamette Valley Vineyards $100 2008 O’Brien Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills CEO Jim Bernau honors Elton Vineyard owners Dick and Betty O’Brien with this remarkable Pinot Noir. It shows off aromas of violets, cinnamon Graham crackers, raspberries and spices, followed by flavors of rich dark cherries, black raspberries and a hint of oak. (92 cases, 13.5% alc.)

3 Fools $22 2008 Fools Gold Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The 3 Fools are now two — Derek Whiteside and Barry Glassman — who craft their wines in Monmouth, Ore. They secured

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grapes from Temperance Hill, Dunn Forest and Rainbow End vineyards and crafted a wine with aromas of cherry blossoms, violets, cinnamon, cherries and vanilla, followed by flavors of pomegrantes, cherries and a hint of black tea in the finish. (190 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Erath Winery $47 2008 Knight’s Gambit Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Knight’s Gambit, a vineyard in the Dundee Hills, was planted in 1988, with additional vines added in 2001. This reveals aromas of slate, pie cherries, boysenberries and forest floor, followed by pleasurable flavors of silky cherries and blueberries. (198 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Hard Row to Hoe $29 NV Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan Winemaker Judy Phelps blended the 2008 and 2009 vintages to create a rare Washington Pinot Noir, all from grapes grown on the south shore of Lake Chelan. This opens with aromas of plums, raspberries, leather and earth, followed by flavors of strawberries, black cher-

ries and blood oranges. (300 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Redman Wines $40 2009 Redman Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Located in the smallest appellation in the Pacific Northwest — Ribbon Ridge is just 3,350 acres in size — Redman is producing superb wines from estate grapes. This opens with aromas of sweet spices, lavender and blueberries, followed by zesty flavors of cranberries backed with velvety tannins. (288 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Brooks Wines $35 2008 Janus Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley In 2004, Jimi Brooks died at the too-young age of 38, leaving the winery that bears his name to his son Pascal, now 15. The wines are made by Chris Williams, who carries on Jimi’s legacy of superb Pinot Noir. This is the flagship wine for Brooks, and it is delicious, opening with aromas of red plums, dark cherries and hints of smoke. On the palate are clean, bright, approachable flavors of red fruit backed with

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pinot noir Jacques Tardy has been making Oregon wine for more than two decades and makes no fewer than 10 Pinot Noirs for this Dundee Hills winery. This wine from the nearby Chehalem Mountains opens with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries and flavors of raspberries, cherries and cream. It’s a complex yet easy-drinking wine with smooth tannins and just the right amount of acidity. (237 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Willamette Valley Vineyards $45 2008 Hannah Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Forrest Klaffke crafts this wine from vineyards adjacent to Tualatin near Forest Grove, and it is one of his finest wines. It opens with aromas of cranberries, cherry blossoms and spices, followed by ripe flavors of cherries and red currants. Its silky texture makes it an easy wine to love. (96 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Benton-Lane Winery $26 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Chris Mazepink uses grapes from the 140-acre estate vineyard near Monroe, Ore. This is one of the larger bottlings of Pinot Noir and opens with aromas of moist earth, leather and spices, followed by flavors of strawberries and raspberries, backed with firm tannins. (16,760 cases, 13.55% alc.)

Carlton Hill Wine Co. $50 2008 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District David Polite owns this 10acre vineyard in the vaunted Yamhill-Carlton District and produces superb wines. This wine, which sells out quickly, opens with spicy aromas of cherries and pomegranates, followed by flavors of plump, ripe cherries, cranberries and raspberries. Moderate tannins and bright acidity back the harmonious fruit.

(94 cases, 13.5% alc.)

elegant tannins. (1,200 cases, 13.4% alc.)

De Ponte Cellars $38 2008 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The Baldwin family purchased this vineyard in 1999 in the Dundee Hills near the town of Dayton and launched its winery two years later.

Winemaker Isabelle Dutartre has been crafting superb wines since that inaugural vintage.

This reveals aromas of salmonberries, cranberries and cedar, followed by flavors of cherries, blueberries, cranberries and black tea.

(1,188 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Soléna Estates $40 2008 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills Winemaker Laurent Montalieu reaches into the southern EolaAmity Hills for this elegant vineyard-designated wine. It opens with aromas of lavender, cherries and vanilla, followed by warm, delicious flavors of raspberries, cherries and shaved chocolate. (100 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Torii Mor Winery $40 2008 Chehalem Mountains Select Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Burgundian

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Clay Hill $26 2009 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This second label for De Ponte Cellars near the town of Dayton is a delicious and relatively affordable Pinot Noir. This opens with subtle aromas of cherries and sweet spices, followed by flavors of black cherries, plums and vanilla bean. It’s a beautiful wine with big flavors and easy tannins. (288 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Erath Winery $45 2008 Prince Hill Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Founder Dick Erath planted this vineyard in 1983, and 27 of its 34 acres are Pinot Noir. It’s a favorite site for Gary Horner, who made four different vineyard-designated wines from the 2008 vintage. This is a youthful and spicy wine with aromas of violets and cranberries, followed by flavors of cherries and vanilla, all backed with just-right tannins. (563 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard $47 2008 Côte Est Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains The grapes for this wine come from the cooler eastern side of Le Cadeau on Parrett Mountain. It shows off aromas of caramel and cherries, followed by flavors of ripe red fruit and cinnamon. It’s all backed with ample acidity and gentle tannins. (351 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Mt. Hood Winery $25 2007 Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge The cooler Columbia Gorge holds the poten-

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tial for growing great Pinot Noir, and the Bickford family’s operation south of Hood River, Ore., is ample evidence. This wine opens with suave aromas of violets, raspberries, cola nut and vanilla. It’s bursting with flavors of raspberries, cherries and even Asian pears.

Bright acidity and mild tannins bring out the best in this wine. (500 cases, 13.2% alc.)

The Four Graces $42 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Winemaker Laurent Montalieu crafted this wine using grapes from the estate Black Family Vineyard, a 110-acre site in the Dundee Hills. This wine opens with elegant aromas of violets, cherries and cedar shavings, followed by flavors of strawberries and spices. It’s a smooth, elegant and, dare we say, graceful wine. (1,200 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Wapato Point Cellars $32 2008 Clos CheValle Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan High above the south shore of Lake Chelan on Bear Mountain is the 100-acre Clos CheValle Vineyard, where winemaker Jonathan Kludt got the grapes for this wine. It opens with aromas of cherries, vanilla and minerals, followed by flavors of strawberries, pie cherries and cinnamon. It’s a smooth wine with bright acidity and well-integrated tannins. (220 cases, 12.7% alc.)

Winter’s Hill Vineyard $39 2008 Cuvée du Vigneron Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The Gladhart family has farmed its land near Lafayette, Ore., for a halfcentury and has been crafting wine from its 35 acres of vines since 1998. This Pinot Noir offers hints of spices on the nose, as well as notes of raspberries and cherries. On the palate, this smooth, plush wine provides flavors of violets, cherries, black olives and vanilla. (112 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Airlie Winery $20 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Mary Olson purchased this winery in 1997 and focuses on wines that are high in quality and easy on the wallet. This nicely priced Pinot Noir opens with huge aromas of strawberries and cherries, followed by flavors of raspberries, molasses, Graham crackers and spices.

(1,414 cases, 12.8% alc.)

Amity Vineyards $35 2008 Amity Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley For nearly four decades, Myron Redford has been passionate about Oregon Pinot Noir, and this wine from estate grapes reveals a powerful elegance that is the hallmark of Amity wines. It opens with aromas of ripe raspberries, cranberries and vanilla bean, followed by long, complex, approachable flavors of ripe cherries and red currants. (200 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $22 2008 Bench Lands Pinot Noir, Oregon Terry Brandborg’s least-expensive Pinot Noir uses grapes from in and around tiny Elkton, Ore., in the northern Umpqua Valley. The aromas of raspberries and strawberries and flavors of bright cherries and high-toned red berries caused us to wonder (before we knew the source) whether this wine was from the Dundee Hills, something we consider a high

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compliment. (3,348 cases, 13.3% alc.)

with hints of oak. (800 cases, 13.5% alc.)

De Ponte Cellars $55 2008 Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Winemaker Isabelle Dutartre crafted this wine from estate grapes, and is just now emerging from its shell and has yet to fully reveal itself.

It opens with youthful notes of black cherries and violets and offers flavors of delicious cherries and hints of oak with a touch of mocha on the finish. We’ll be interested in seeing where this is in another year.

(450 cases, 14.1% alc.)

ADEA Wine Co. $45 2008 Cherry Grove Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Cherry Grove Vineyard near the Yamhill County town of Gaston provides the grapes for this delicious Pinot Noir from the Fisher family. It opens with light aromas of cherries and shaved chocolate, followed by flavors of black cherries and vanilla.

This is a big, rich style of wine with moderate tannins. (168 cases, 14% alc.)

Erath Winery $50 2008 Prince Hill Pommard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The Pommard clone of Pinot Noir has been a workhorse in Oregon for the better part of four decades. The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard near founder Dick Erath’s home in the Dundee Hills, and it reveals classic aromas of lavender, vanilla and strawberries, followed by long, rich flavors of ripe raspberries, cherries and minerally earth.

(230 cases, 13% alc.)

King Estate $55 2008 Backbone Pinot Noir, Oregon Using grapes from five vineyards, one of Oregon’s largest wineries has crafted a delicious smalllot wine. It opens with aromas of raspberries, cherries and vanilla, followed by bright flavors of cranberries and cherries, along with hints of smoke. (205 cases, 13% alc.)

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Atticus Wine Cellars $42 2008 Atticus Vineyard Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District Winemaker Scott Shull of Raptor Ridge crafted this wine from estate grapes near the town of Yamhill. This unveils aromas of alder smoke, raspberries, red currants and orange zest, followed by flavors of sweet black cherries and vanilla. Velvety tannins and zippy acidity provide background music for a symphony of flavors. (125 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Benton-Lane Winery $26 2008 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley One of the larger bottlings of Oregon Pinot Noir, this wine from a top southern Willamette Valley winery is widely distributed across the United States. This wine opens with aromas of ripe raspberries and mushrooms, followed by flavors of white strawberries and a hint of oranges. It is a youthful and unrestrained wine that is refreshing to drink.

(20,308 cases, 13.45% alc.)

to check out the winery’s Woodinville tasting room. (103 cases, 13% alc.)

Firesteed Cellars $16 2008 Pinot Noir, Oregon This is the largestproduction wine in our judging — and the best value in Oregon. This opens with classic aromas of violets and gentle red fruit, followed by flavors of cherries, cranberries and even a touch of black licorice. It’s a bright wine with gentle tannins. (45,000 cases, 12.3% alc.)

Best buy!

Indian Creek Winery $15 2009 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Bill and Mui Stowe launched this winery near Kuna, Idaho, in 1982, and Bill has been responsible for nurturing the nascent Idaho wine industry. He is one of the few to have embraced Pinot Noir in the Snake River Valley for much of the past 30 years. This is a delicious and affordable wine with aromas of cherries and allspice and lingering flavors of raspberries and cranberries. (300 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Johan Vineyards $28 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This small operation near Rickreall, Ore., uses estate and purchased fruit to craft this wine.

It opens with aromas of black raspberries and cherries, followed by supple and elegant flavors of red and dark fruit. (396 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Luminous Hills $35 2009 Estate Astra Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District This vineyard is high in the hills of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA of the northern Willamette Valley, and this wine is a blend of the 667 and 115 clones of Pinot Noir. The resulting wine shows off aromas of pie cherries, red berries and rose petals, followed by gorgeous flavors of red currants and crushed walnuts backed with sturdy tannins. (98 cases, 15% alc.)

Bridgeview Vineyards $20 2008 Blue Moon Pinot Noir, Oregon Deep in Southern Oregon, Bridgeview has long been one of Oregon’s largest producers. This affordable Pinot Noir delivers bright, fruity aromas and flavors of ripe red cherries and vanilla. It’s a fairly big wine packed with fruit and backed with moderate tannins. (8,000 cases, 13% alc.)

Maysara Winery $25 2008 Jamsheed Pinot Noir, McMinnville Moe Momtazi operates a large vineyard and nursery operation in the McMinnville AVA, and this is his winemaking daughter’s flagship Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of black cherries, black walnuts and hints of oak, followed by flavors of cherries and blackberries. Modest yet lingering tannins provide this wine with restrained elegance. (4,000 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Brooks Wines $25 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Chris Williams pulls in grapes from all areas of the vast Willamette Valley to craft this bright, delicious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of cranberries and cherries that give way to flavors of Rainier cherries and just-ripe raspberries. Crisp acidity brightens the already high-toned fruit. (2,600 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Stoller Vineyards $25 2008 JV Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills With 176 acres of vines in the Dundee Hills, Stoller Vineyards has developed into one of the appellation’s most important plantings. This bottling comes from “junior vines,” thus the “JV” moniker. It’s a youthful wine with inviting aromas of violets, strawberries and new leather, followed by easy-drinking flavors of cherries and cranberries. (4,706 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Carlton Hill Wine Co. $36 2008 Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District This winery near the town of Carlton, Ore., is famous for its crazy croquet tournaments, and this wine also is plenty of fun. It opens with aromas of sweet herbs, violets and cherries, which give way to flavors of bright red cherries, mint and cinnamon. Everything is backed by bright acidity and lean tannins.

(420 cases, 13.5% alc.)

1789 Wines $48 2008 Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Isabelle Dutartre, winemaker for De Ponte Cellars, has created this label and named it after the year of the French Revolution in her native country. It is a nubile wine with aromas of plums and boysenberries and flavors of rich berries backed with pretty tannins.

(165 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Willamette Valley Vineyards $45 2008 South Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This wine from our 2011 Oregon Winery of the Year uses grapes from a corner of the estate vineyard that was certified organic in 2007. The wine opens with a subtle nose of raspberries and cranberries, followed by rich, smooth flavors of red fruits backed

Challenger Ridge $18 2008 Pinot Noir, Washington Based in the Skagit Valley town of Concrete, Wash., this winery is home to a 13-acre Pinot Noir vineyard. This is a classic Pinot Noir with aromas of cherries and red plums and plush flavors of cherries and chocolate. A rich midpalate is backed with well-integrated tannins. Be sure

Soléna Estates $60 2008 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District Using grapes from his estate vineyard, owner/winemaker Laurent Montalieu has crafted an attractive and mouth-filling wine that opens with opulent aromas of ripe strawberries and sandalwood, followed by flavors of white strawberries and

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Kathken Vineyards $25 NV Jolie’s Juice Pinot Noir American Style Port, Willamette Valley Kathken Vineyards is in the Eola-Amity Hills near Salem and is producing a number of delicious wines. This is a somewhat rare fortified Pinot Noir, and it is a delicious treat. It opens with aromas of hazelnuts, plums and cherries and on the palate is delicious without being overly sweet.

The alcohol is well integrated, and this should age quite well. (225 cases, 19% alc.)

Acrobat $18 2009 Pinot Noir, Oregon The goal of this label for King Estate is to create a delicious Pinot Noir for under $20. Mission accomplished. It opens with aromas of raspberries and pomegranates, which lead to flavors of dense cherries and ripe raspberries. Hints of chocolate meld with the moderate tannins.

(18,500 cases, 13% alc.)

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pinot noir black cherries. (300 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Westport Winery $31 2008 Pinot Noirvana, Washington This wine honors Aberdeen native Kurt Cobain of Nirvana fame and helps to fund a teen center in his home town. The grapes come from the Yakima Valley, and winemaker Dana Roberts has done a great job crafting a Pinot Noir with young aromas of cherries and raspberries and a palate loaded with rich, ripe fruit. (201 cases, 12% alc.)

Winter’s Hill Vineyard $29 2008 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This winery near Lafayette, Ore., has always crafted Pinot Noirs at affordable prices. Winemaker Delphine Gladhart has put together a wine that opens with aromas of Van cherries and violets, followed by flavors of black cherries and sweet spices. It’s a plush wine with a bit of chocolate in the finish. (600 cases, 13% alc.)

Alexana Winery $75 2008 Signature Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Longtime Yamhill County winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash produces the wines for this young winery whose estate grapes come from the Dundee Hills and sold at their tasting room in Carlton. This is Burgundian in style, with aromas of earth, leather, coffee and olives, followed by flavors of minerals, blueberries and white strawberries. (140 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Atticus Wine Cellars $24 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This elegant Pinot Noir uses grapes from Yamhill Springs and Hawks View vineyards. The resulting wine shows off aromas of strawberries and Rainier cherries, followed by lingering flavors of dense cherries, red plums and bittersweet chocolate. (275 cases, 12.8% alc.)

Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery $25 CDN 2009 Estate Pinot Noir, British Columbia This winery in Creston, B.C., celebrates the life of a pioneer who arrived in the Kootenays in the 1880s to hunt mountain goats and attract settlers. This wine shows off elegant aromas of ripe raspberries and bright flavors of Rainier cherries, all backed with mild tannins. (105 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Benson Vineyards Estate Winery $23 2008 Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan The Benson family has created quite a destination winery on the north shore of Lake Chelan — and is producing some superb wines. This rare Washington Pinot Noir opens with aromas of coffee and bright red fruit, followed by flavors of plums, espresso and cherries. (270 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Bridgeview Vineyards $25 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, Southern Oregon René Eichmann crafts the wines for this family operation near the California border. This reserve-level wine reveals aromas of cherries, chocolate and a bit of orange zest, followed by rich flavors of cherries and spices. This is still pretty tightly wound and should further reveal itself in the next 12 to 24 months.

(167 cases, 13% alc.)

Cana’s Feast Winery $20 2008 Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District

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This winery in Carlton has become quite a destination, thanks to its Tuscan-inspired tasting room, bocce ball courts and restaurant.

This Pinot Noir opens with aromas of plums, boysenberry and a nice bit of earthiness, followed by juicy flavors of cherries, berries and cinnamon. (265 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Chehalem Wines $27 2008 3 Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Using grapes from the estate Ridgecrest, Stoller and Corral Creek vineyards, Harry Peterson-Nedry and Mike Eyres have crafted a complex and complete wine.

On the nose, it reveals aromas of strawberries, cracked pepper and cedar shavings, followed by flavors of currants, black tea and cranberries. (4,529 cases, 13.1% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $28 2008 Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Jason Bull continues to build superb Pinot Noirs for this Forest Grove, Ore., producer. This wine opens with aromas of ripe cherries and pomegranates, followed by flavors of lingonberries, sweet cherries and hints of cinnamon. (600 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Erath Winery $34 2008 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Gary Horner uses grapes from four vineyards, with the bulk coming from Knight’s Gambit and Prince Hill. The resulting wine reveals aromas of boysenberries, blueberries and delicate oak, followed by flavors of cherries, vanilla and a hint of citrus. (4,920 cases, 13% alc.)

Gresser Vineyard $28 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This young producer in the Chehalem Mountains uses estate fruit to craft one wine: Pinot Noir.

This focused effort has resulted in a wine that is rich in aromas of strawberries and raspberries and flavors of black cherries, red plums and moist earth. It is wonderfully balanced with bright acidity and modest tannins. (350 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Kyra Wines $22 2008 Pinot Noir, Washington Owner Kyra Baerlocher brought in grapes from three areas of the state, including the Ancient Lakes region of the Columbia Valley, the Okanogan area to the north and the Columbia Gorge to the south. It’s a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries and hnts of spice. (402 cases, 14.1% alc.)

LeVieux Pin $35 CDN 2008 Adieu Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley This winery just across the border near Osoyoos, B.C., calls this “Adieu” because it is its last Pinot Noir. It’s an elegant wine with aromas of cherries, strawberries and vanilla and rich flavors of ripe red fruit backed with mild tannins. (100 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Oak Bay Vineyard $19 CDN 2007 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley St. Hubertus near Kelowna, B.C., produces this wine, which reveals aromas of red plums, cranberries and cedar, followed by flavors of raspberries and leather. (1,000 cases, 12.8% alc.)

Oak Bay Vineyard $19 CDN 2008 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley In 2003,

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PINOT NOIR

BY THE NUMBERS

or this article, we blind-tasted 170 Pacific Northwest Pinot Noirs, all submitted by wineries.

Here are a few facts: • Out of 170 wines, 24 wines (14%) earned our top “Outstanding” rating, while 80 (47%) garnered an “Excellent” rating and 51 (30%) received a “Recommended” rating.

Just 14 (8%) were rated “No medal” and not reviewed.

• We tasted wines from all four major Northwest regions.

• The average bottle price was $34.32.

• The wines here represent 291,530 cases.

• The average alcohol was 13.59%.

• The wines came from 18 appellations, including: Ribbon Ridge, Chehalem Mountains, Columbia Gorge, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Yamhill-Carlton District, Willamette Valley, Umpqua Valley, Oregon, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Columbia Valley, Lake Chelan, Puget Sound, Washington and Snake River Valley.

• Of these, 61 came from the Willamette Valley.

• The wines came from five vintages: 2009 (26), 2008 (119), 2007 (19), 2006 (2) and 2004 (1). Three were nonvintage.

F

a wildfire that destroyed more than 200 homes in the Okanagan Valley also consumed this winery near Kelowna. The Gebert family has since rebuilt and produces this wine from its 26-acre Oak Bay Vineyard. It reveals aromas of lavender, cherry and violets and flavors of raspberries, cherries and hints of mushrooms. (1,000 cases, 12.9% alc.)

Ponzi Vineyards $25 2009 Tavola Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi crafted this wine from myriad vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley. It is a nice combination of fruit and hints of smokiness, with flavors of cherries, cranberries and raspberries.

It’s backed with modest tannins that give way to a fruit-laden finish. (6,423 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Sokol Blosser Winery $50 2008 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Using grapes from vineyards planted between 1998 and 2000, winemaker Russ Rosner has crafted a wine that shows off fruit and oak, with aromas of cherries and chocolate and flavors of ripe berries and espresso.

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pinot noir (650 cases, 14% alc.)

OREGON VINTNERS HOPE ‘ V E RT I C A L’ I S A N O T H E R ‘ S I D E WAY S ’

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hen the the Oscar-nominated film “Sideways” came out in 2004, it brought broad interest in Pinot Noir — and one line in the film did great damage to the California Merlot industry.

While the movie ostensibly was about two friends on a road trip and their failings as human beings, it was the first film to draw widespread interest in wine.

Soon after the movie became a huge hit, rumors began about a sequel that would take place in Oregon wine country. That became reality in December, when author Rex Pickett’s sequel novel “Vertical” came out.

“Vertical” is set seven years later and is an elaborate parody on “Sideways” (book and movie). After the events that took place in the first book, Miles writes a novel called “Shameless” that becomes a hit movie.

Meanwhile, Jack is divorced and out of work, and Miles’ mom is an invalid. So Miles cooks up a plan to kidnap his mom from a nursing facility and take her and Jack to Oregon’s International Pinot Noir Celebration.

As they drive up the coast, Miles and Jack commit increasing levels of debauchery, and their outrageous behavior causes laugh-outloud problems.

In the end, it’s story of redemption and closure.

And it probably will make a good movie.

Can it provide the same kind of magic we saw seven years ago? Unlikely. Few sequels approach originals. And frankly, I don’t know that “Vertical” is what the Oregon wine industry was hoping for. In the book, the IPNC comes off looking like a drunkfest rather than an exaltation of the Willamette Valley’s glorious grapes. Pickett drops a lot of names in “Vertical,” which I suppose is good for those wineries, but I will be shocked if any upcoming film will provide another “Sideways” effect.

— Andy Perdue

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Torii Mor Winery $50 2008 Hawks View Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Longtime Oregon winemaker Jacques Tardy uses grapes from one of the state’s most coveted Pinot Noir vineyards. This wine opens with aromas of violets and cherries, followed by flavors of red plums and cranberries. (155 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Cathedral Ridge Winery $32 2008 Dampier Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge This Hood River, Ore., winery crosses the Columbia River to Underwood Mountain, where these vines live at 1,100 feet in elevation. This wine reveals aromas of plums, blueberries and pomegranates, as well as flavors of red currants, Rainier cherries and lively strawberries. (246 cases, 13.3% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $38 2008 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Contrary to popular belief, this winery is not named for Oregon politician David Hill (for whom nearby Hillsboro was named) but rather William David, who owned the hill the winery and vineyard are on. This reserve-level wine shows elegance in the nose with aromas of cherries and vanilla, followed by delicate and subtle flavors of bright red fruit. (300 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Henry Estate $18 2008 Oregon Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Scotty Henry, son of winery founder Scott Henry, has put together a delicious and affordable wine that is best described as “consumer friendly.” It is a straightforward Pinot Noir with aromas of cranberries and Dr Pepper, followed by easy-drinking flavors of cherries and raspberries. (3,000 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Honeywood Winery $28 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Started in 1933, Honeywood in Salem is the Northwest’s oldest winery, and though it is best known for its fruit wines, it also makes delicious varietal wines. This Pinot Noir shows off alluring aromas of marionberries, raspberries and cherries, all backed with elegant oak. (385 cases, 13.3% alc.)

Le Cadeau Vineyard $38 2009 Oregon “Red Label” Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains This winery with an estate vineyard on Parrett Mountain is one of the Oregon wine scene’s up-and-coming stars. This luscious example of Pinot Noir unfolds on the nose with aromas of cherries, oak and spice, followed by flavors of ripe raspberries and smooth cherries that give way to a lengthy finish. (244 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Luminous Hills $35 2009 Estate Lux Pinot Noir, YamhillCarlton District Relying on the Pommard and 777 clones of Pinot Noir, this young wine offers aromas of strawberries, sage, rose petals and restrained oak, followed by flavors of ripe strawberries backed with elegant tannins and bright acidity. (147 cases, 15% alc.)

O’Reilly’s $17 2009 Pinot Noir, Oregon This Pinot Noir

from Owen Roe is cherished by wine lovers looking for that right combination of quality and value. This offers aromas of pie cherries, red plums and a whisper of smoke, as well as flavors of Bing cherries, sweet tobacco, mint and milk chocolate. (7,000 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Redman Wines $30 2009 Redman Vineyard Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge Ribbon Ridge is a fascinating little appellation in the northern Willamette Valley, whose grapes can result in a broad range of wines. This is on the delicate side, with aromas of rose petals, strawberries and blood oranges on the aromas and elegant red fruit flavors backed by mild tannins. (166 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Willamette Valley Vineyards $35 2008 Founders’ Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Forrest Klaffke brought in grapes from a number of varieties throughout the Willamette Valley to craft this reserve-level Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of cherries and light menthol, followed by stylish flavors of bright red fruit and even something that reminded us of a cherry danish. (4,600 cases, 13% alc.)

Amity Vineyards $30 2008 Bass Hill Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Myron Redford and winemaker Darcy Pendergrass used grapes from this McMinnville AVA vineyard to craft a stylish and lively Pinot Noir. It is a gorgeous wine with aromas of rose petals, lingonberries and pomegranates, followed by juicy flavors of red berries and cherries, all backed with supple structure and delicate tannins. (116 cases, 13% alc.)

Cana’s Feast Winery $48 2008 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville Winemaker Patrick Taylor uses grapes from one of Oregon’s top vineyards for this bottling. Meredith Mitchell is a 25-acre vineyard in the underrated McMinnville AVA, and this wine opens with aromas of moist earth, leather and blood orange, followed by intense flavors of cherries and tobacco leaf. It’s an absolutely fascinating wine. (328 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Nk’Mip Cellars $30 CDN 2008 Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley This winery just across the Canadian border is owned by the Osoyoos Band, and winemaker Randy Picton has turned it into one of the province’s top producers. This Pinot opens with complex aromas of rose petals, pomegranates, sage and olives, followed by restrained flavors of pomegranates and cherries. (1,880 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Torii Mor Winery $50 2008 La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills This vineyard was planted in 1999 and supplies grapes to many top Willamette Valley producers. Winemaker Jacques Tardy has crafted a Pinot Noir with aromas of cranberries and cedar, followed by flavors of boysenberries, red currants and dried cherries. (165 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Wild Goose Vineyards $20 CDN 2008 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Secondgeneration winemaker Hagen Kruger is best known for his world-class white wines, and his red wines are quite delicious in their own

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pinot noir right. This Pinot Noir opens with aromas of strawberries and blueberries, followed by flavors of cherries, plums and boysenberries. It’s a lively and juicy wine. (200 cases, 12.8% alc.)

Atticus Wine Cellars $34 2008 Select Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Two families came together to launch this Yamhill, Ore., winery, and they are crafting several delicious Pinot Noirs. This provides aromas of cranberries, pomegranates and vanilla coffee, followed by flavors of cherries and chocolate, all backed with sweet tannins and lingering acidity. (150 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Troon Vineyard $15 2009 Trifecta Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This Southern Oregon producer brought in grapes from the Eola-Amity Hills and Willamette Valley and blended in just a touch of Zinfandel (3%). The resulting wine shows off aromas of cherries, olives and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of marionberries.

Mild tannins provide all the structure needed.

(600 cases, 13% alc.)

RECOMMENDED Luminous Hills $28 2009 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, 357 cases, 15% alc.

King Estate $27 2009 Signature Collection Pinot Noir, Oregon, 24,500 cases, 13% alc.

Willamette Valley Vineyards $45 2008 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 322 cases, 13.5% alc.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $45 2008 BlackJack Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 150 cases, 14.3% alc.

Redman Wines 2008 Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge, 175 cases, 14.2% alc.

$40

Chehalem Mountains, 1,000 cases, 14% alc.

Willamette Valley, 250 cases, 13.6% alc.

Carlton Cellars $30 2008 Cape Lookout Pinot Noir, Oregon, 576 cases, 13.4% alc.

Montinore Estate $19 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 9,000 cases, 13.9% alc.

ADEA Wine Co. $25 2008 Ann Sigrid Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 560 cases, 14% alc.

Road 13 Vineyards $23 CDN 2008 Pinot Noir, British Columbia, 1,533 cases, 12.8% alc.

Atticus Wine Cellars $34 2007 Select Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 230 cases, 12.75% alc.

Sweet Cheeks Winery $23 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2,050 cases, 13% alc.

Cathedral Ridge Winery $26 2008 Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, 368 cases, 13.8% alc.

Agate Ridge Vineyard 2007 Clonal Selection Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley, 201 cases, 12.2% alc.

Chehalem Wines $44 2008 Stoller Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, 595 cases, 13.2% alc.

Christopher Bridge Cellars $23 2008 Satori Springs Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 295 cases, 13.3% alc.

Freja Cellars $40 2006 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 100 cases, 14% alc.

Gresser Vineyard $24 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 160 cases, 13.9% alc.

Henry Estate $50 2004 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley, 100 cases, 13.5% alc.

Kramer Vineyards $20 2008 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, 149 cases, 13.5% alc.

Kettle Valley Winery $35 CDN 2008 Hayman Pinot Noir, Naramata Bench, 80 cases, 15% alc.

Soléna Estates $25 2008 Grande Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2,500 cases, 14.1% alc.

Maysara Winery 2008 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, McMinnville, 1,000 cases, 13.5% alc.

The Four Graces 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 9,500 cases, 13.7% alc.

$32

Merriman Wines $50 2007 Estate Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, 100 cases, 13.4% alc.

Whistling Dog Cellars 2007 NSV Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 415 cases, 13.5% alc.

$24

Apolloni Vineyards $28 2008 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 420 cases, 13.6% alc.

Stoller Vineyards $40 2007 SV Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, 1,950 cases, 13.6% alc.

Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2007 Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan, 271 cases, 13.6% alc.

Torii Mor Winery $35 2008 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 467 cases, 13.4% alc.

Benton-Lane Winery $60 2008 Estate Grown First Class Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 740 cases, 13.75% alc.

Torii Mor Winery $22 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 7015 cases, 13.5% alc.

Chateau Lorane 2007 Organically Grown Pinot Noir, Oregon, 53 cases, 13.3% alc.

Alexana Winery $38 2007 Revana Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, 1665 cases, 13.5% alc.

Emerson Vineyards $30 2009 Avelina Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 170 cases, 13.3% alc.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $16 2008 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 800 cases, 13.6% alc.

Indian Creek Winery $25 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley, 50 cases, 13.4% alc.

Kettle Valley Winery $26 CDN 2008 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 1,210 cases, 14.1% alc.

Johan Vineyards $45 2008 Nils Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 330 cases, 12.8% alc.

Amity Vineyards $50 2007 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 240 cases, 14% alc.

Kettle Valley Winery $35 CDN 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, 174 cases, 14.5% alc.

Anam Cara Cellars 2008 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir,

Montinore Estate 2008 Graham’s Block 7 Pinot Noir,

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$30

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

$23

$25

$24

$29

Torii Mor Winery $40 2008 Eola-Amity Hills Select Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 237 cases, 13.6% alc.

Willamette Valley Vineyards $100 2008 Fuller Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 66 cases, 13.5% alc.

ADEA Wine Co. 2008 Deano’s Pinot, Willamette Valley, 258 cases, 14% alc.

$35

Bodhichitta Winery $38 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 58 cases, 13.2% alc.

Kramer Vineyards $35 2007 Rebecca’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, 101 cases, 13% alc.

Martin-Scott Winery $23 2007 Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, 46 cases, 15.6% alc.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery $24 2009 Estate Pinot Noir, Puget Sound, 83 cases, 12.6% alc.

King Estate $60 2008 Domaine Pinot Noir, Oregon, 1171 cases, 13% alc.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2008 Diversité Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, 270 cases, 14.1% alc. ı

$47

AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

$35

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website’s at: WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: DESTINATIONS

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE Marshal’s Winery World-class wines, great selection with small production quality * Syrah * Cab Franc Rosé * Zinfandel * Lemberger * Tempranillo * Muscat Canelli * Barbera Port * Stone Face Blend Tasting Room Open daily: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

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WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON

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M AT C H M A K E R S

Grilled salmon and Bouillabaisse is paired with Tagaris Winery 2007 Alice Vineyard Counoise.

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE Tagaris Winery $34 2007 Alice Vineyard Counoise, Wahluke Slope —300 cases produced, 13.5% alcohol

Frankly Speaking... ...Tagaris Winery and Taverna in Richland, Wash., brings it all together tastefully

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

T

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

he Frank & Frank Show performs almost every afternoon and evening at the end of Tulip Lane.

Devotees of Northwest wine and cuisine get treated to an experience from Tagaris Winery that goes beyond the boundaries of what anyone expects from the Tri-Cities — or anywhere else.

That’s especially true on the 9,000-square foot patio of Taverna Tagaris. The stage is set with Frank Roth on the wine. And there’s Frank Chullino in the kitchen.

“I’m a native Tri-Citian, so I’m not one of those people who like to bash the Tri-Cities,” Roth said.

“We do lack some things, but when you come to see us, you feel like you are in a different place — a place that’s out of town — but you are in our backyard.”

As Roth and Chullino stand on the second-floor balcony, they laugh confidently, virtually pinching their tattoos over their good fortune to play for Mike Taggares’ team. He made his own fortune as a Columbia Basin grower by taking a path slightly different than his regionally famous Greekborn grandfather.

“Mike Taggares is the type of guy who considers himself a dark horse, and he

likes to put money on the dark horse,” said Roth, perhaps the most heavily tatted winemaker in the Pacific Northwest. “None of us has a college education; we’re all pretty young and we were the second- or third-person down in the chain of command before we got here.

“But that’s whom he wanted to entrust with making decisions,” Roth added. “And I like to think that it has worked out pretty well for me.”

Roth, 30, has been the Tagaris winemaker almost from the time it relaunched at Tulip Lane in 2006. Chullino, 36, assumed the role of executive chef in 2007. That was Roth’s second vintage, and only Tagaris wines are offered on the premise.

“This is the dream job for a chef,” Chullino said. “To be able to work with wine and this guy every day, with the food we do here and the atmosphere? I wouldn’t leave this place.”

In fact, Chullino, 36, recently bought a house for himself and his two basset hounds. Putting down roots doesn’t come easily for him, though. He grew up in his mother’s kitchen in Nebraska and spent a lot of time cooking in Austin, Texas, before moving to restaurants in

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s the chef, Frank Chullino loves the natural acidity inside this lesserknown Rhône variety native to southern France and Spain.

As the winemaker, though, Frank Roth gets a bit stressed because of all that acidity.

“It’s a very, very late ripener — we’re talking the first week of November — with really big acidity and low sugars,” Roth said. “In the Rhône Valley, it’s not one they use to bring ripeness to a blend. It’s used to bring more of an elegance to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape style blends.”

Technically, total acidity of Counoise (pronounced Coon-wahz) at Alice Vineyard hovers around 8.1, and the pH at 3.0.

That’s even with the sugar content of the berries at 23.5 brix. By comparison, the sweeter Grenache grapes nearby typically come in with a TA near 7.5 and pH at 3.7.

And the canvas that is the Wahluke Slope is key to the recipe. It’s a warm site and almost bullet-proof to severe weather events, which explains Counoise’s success there.

“The beauty of being on the Wahluke Slope is that you can really hang the tonnage to get it ripe,” Roth said.

This bottling came off 4-year-old vines from a 2-acre block planted in 2004. In the cool year of 2010, the load was near 3 tons per acre and machine-harvested.

In 2007, Roth recalls cropping the vines to around 4 tons per acre. Harvested by hand, it made for a wine filled with finesse and similar to a fruit-forward Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Dundee Hills. But it’s 100 percent Counoise.

“It doesn’t really need wood, and it doesn’t need a blender,” Roth said. “It’s bright with fresh strawberry through it and lively acidity, but there’s also a density to it.

“And it’s lower in alcohol so it keeps the palate very fresh and clean. It doesn’t have a lot of tannin buildup. That enhances the food flavors and leaves your mouth salivating and ready for more. I’m not exactly sure why it does so well with food, but it does — from fish to salads to red meats.”

A

Tagaris Winery, 844 Tulip Lane, Richland, WA 99352, 509-628-1619, tagariswines.com

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Grilled Fish & Bouillabaisse Serves 8

2 tablespoons blend oil 1 1 ⁄ 2 cup leeks, diced small 4 tablespoons garlic, chopped 1 1 ⁄ 2 cup fennel, diced small 1 1 ⁄ 2 cup white wine 6 cups canned tomatoes 4 cups fish or vegetable stock 1 teaspoon orange zest 1 ⁄ 2 teaspoon saffron 1 1 ⁄ 2 cups potatoes, peeled, cubed and parboiled 1 teaspoon ground berbere spice mix 2 cups 26/30 shrimp 3 cups clams 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice salt and pepper, to taste 8 each 8-10 oz. salmon or other fish fillets 1 cup herb salad (a mix of fresh Italian parsley, thyme and oregano extra virgin olive oil (to taste) lime juice (to taste)

Georgia, the Virgin Islands and Puget Sound.

Connections he made in Seattle led him to Tagaris in 2006. Chullino took over in 2007 when executive chef Chris Ainsworth left for Walla Walla to launch the acclaimed Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen.

“I like being in big cities, and I’ve been nothing but a traveler and a vagabond, but the opportunity was

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In a large soup pot, add oil and sweat leeks, garlic and fennel, deglaze with white wine. Once the wine is 75% gone, add tomatoes, stock, zest, saffron, potatoes and berbere. Let simmer for about 30 minutes. Add shrimp and clams to the base and simmer for about 20 more minutes. Make sure to simmer long enough to cook the seafood.

When done, remove from heat and add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Set aside.

Grill or sear fish.

Using a large soup bowl, place 6 oz. of Bouillabaise in bowl, then place your seared or grilled fish on top. Put fresh parsley, thyme and oregano into a small bowl with a splash of olive oil, lime juice, salt and pepper. Mix together and place on top of fish.

Note: The Bouillabaisse can be prepared a day ahead by leaving out the shrimp and clams, then adding them to the base right away when reheating. here, so I took advantage of it,” Chullino said. “I’ve always been the No. 2 guy, and he has the weight on his shoulders. Now it’s my sous chef Anthony Maltos who does all the work, and he makes me look good.”

Roth’s career path was considerably shorter, more focused and definitely destined.

His father, Coke Roth, was a thirdgeneration beer and wine distributor

before passing the bar and becoming an international wine judge, wine consultant and grape grower.

“In all my elementary school pictures, I’m wearing ‘Rainier’ or ‘Coors’ shirts or something like that,” Frank said with a chuckle.

“I’ve been around it my whole life, and this was what came after high school for me. It was an obvious choice.”

These days, Tagaris apparel covers most of his tattoos, an array that ranges from the Star of David, footprints of his children and suport for his favorite sports teams. Before all that, he spent a year working in British Columbia at Sumac Ridge Estate Winery and Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards, both founded by family friend Harry McWatters.

Roth honed his craft, though, working nearly 10 vintages for Barnard Griffin Winery — Wine Press Northwest’s 2006 Northwest Winery of the Year.

“I was actually Barnard Griffin’s first employee in 1996,” Roth said.

“Rob Griffin is a tremendous winemaker, but he’s maybe even a better teacher because he planted things in my brain that I didn’t even know were there until I needed them. He set me on a great path.”

In 2005, Tagarres bought property and began building next door to Barnard Griffin on Tulip Lane.

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M AT C H M A K E R S “I’ve been driving on this road for 14 years — before it was even a road,” Roth said with a chuckle.

“When they were building this, they would ask for advice on the cellar.

Rob would direct them to me because I ran his cellar and arranged it. I really helped set up my own work space without knowing it.”

Critical success came quickly for Roth, a husband and father of two.

His 2006 estate Malbec and 2006 estate Mourvèdre both won double gold medals at the 2008 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, and Roth credits technical tastings with his dad and members of the industry for helping him define styles.

“That was the perfect experience coming to place like this and having to make 30 different wines,” he said.

When it comes to grapes, Roth plays only with estate fruit. That gives him control and some predictability.

The original planting is Areté Vineyard, a 200-acre block on both sides of Radar Hill near the Columbia Basin town of Othello, Wash. On the cooler northern slope, there’s Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau and Riesling. Warmer varieties are grown in the Wahluke Slope, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Syrah.

RECIPE Pork Chops with Apricot Chutney, Gravy and Potato Pancakes Serves 4 3

⁄ 4 cup dried apricots ⁄ 4 cup raisins 1 pinch ground allspice 3 1 ⁄ 4 cups water 4 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 5 cups shredded potatoes 6 eggs, beaten 3 ⁄ 4 cup green onions, bias cut 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons kosher salt olive oil 4 each 10-12 oz. pork chops, we suggest Pure Country Pork in Ephrata, Wash.

1 cup kale butter 1 ⁄ 2 cup white gravy 3

To make produce 1⁄2 cup of the apricot chutney, combine apricots, raisins and For the Match Maker project, Chullino and Roth chose to feature the Counoise and Grenache from the estate Alice Vineyard. Or was it Roth and Chullino? After all, Roth’s father once hosted his own cooking TV show in the Tri-Cities.

“We kind of like to switch it up,” Roth said. “I have more to say on the food end than a winemaker might normally have, and Chef has more say on the wine side.”

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allspice in a mixing bowl. Bring water and sugar to a boil in a sauce pan, then add vinegar. Reduce heat by half and add apricot mix. Simmer for 10-15 minutes.

Chill.

To make potato pancakes, place shredded potatoes in cheese cloth to extract all excess water from potatoes. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs and add green onions, flour and salt, incorporating everything evenly. Heat up heavy duty, flat bottom skillet, add some olive oil and potato mixture. Cook on both sides until result resembles hash browns. Set aside.

Grill or sear pork chops.

Sauté kale in butter.

For each plate, pool the gravy in the center. From your potato pancake, cut out 3 silver dollar size pancakes and place in center of plate on top of gravy. Place kale on top of the pancakes, then place pork chop on top of kale. Finish with a tablespoon of chutney on top of chop.

They routinely discuss the daily menu, which reflects seasonal ingredients and appropriate wines.

“Frankie has been gracious enough that I’ve got a dish on the regular menu, and the last couple of winemaker dinners we’ve done, I’ve got one my own dishes for them,” Roth said. “That’s really fun for me.”

In fact, the pork chop recipe for the Match Maker is Roth’s creation.

It spotlights Pure Country Pork from

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE Tagaris Winery 2007 Alice Vineyard Grenache Wahluke Slope — 70 cases produced, 13.5% alcohol

$34

uch of Frank Roth’s winemaking

M

passion is tied to the Tagaris vine-

yard-designated program that’s focused on the 100 acres Mike Taggares named in

Executive chef Frank Chullino and winemaker Frank Roth team up to keep Tagaris visitors coming back for more.

homage to his mother.

Just two percent of the parcel is devoted to Grenache, and it is an even split between two clones — Grenache Noir and Tablas Creek. Both seem to excel.

Ephrata and is a delicious example of Chullino’s patronage of local ingredients.

He proudly lists more than a handful local purveyors on the Tagaris website, including Monteillet Fromagerie in Dayton, Schreiber & Sons produce in Eltopia, and Upper Dry Creek Ranch in Weston, Ore. “I try to be as close to farm-to-fork as possible in spring, summer and early fall,” Chullino said. “I go down to the farmers market every Saturday.”

And his culinary approach highlights proteins and greens.

“The Grenache is a perfect wine to go with the pork,” Chullino said. “There’s a vibrance in the wine because of the fruit and acidity. The flavors are already there, and I’m not masking them with sauces. I let the food speak for itself. Butter, salt and pepper is about it.”

The two friends threaded both sides of the Match Maker project by featuring another Rhône variety — a remarkable pairing of Chullino’s fish dish with the Tagaris 2007 Counoise.

Yes, fish with a red wine that’s not Pinot Noir.

“Usually with seafood, you are limited to white wine selections or a

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lighter-bodied red wine pairing,” Roth said. “We have in our bag of tricks Counoise, and that is the best pairing wine I’ve ever seen in my life. You can pair it honestly with anything. Fish is a great opportunity to showcase its versatility because fish can be a tricky thing to pair with.”

Both dishes are from the seasonal menu, which is best enjoyed on the Patio Kouzina with live bands that are changed out every weekend.

“On a summer night, we’ll seat 70 to 75 inside, but out on the patio, where there’s a separate kitchen, we can serve almost 200 and at the same time hold a party upstairs for up to 75,” Chullino said. “That’s exciting.

You can party outside; you can party inside. You can do whatever you want here.”

Roth added with a chuckle, “Yeah, I come out here probably more than the restaurant management would appreciate.” ı Tagaris Winery, 844 Tulip Lane, Richland, WA 99352, 509-628-0020, tagaris wines.com

“I honestly don’t see much difference between the two,” Roth said. “The color may be a hint darker in the Noir clone, but that’s about it.”

Considering how well this Rhône variety does on the Wahluke Slope, it’s surprising there isn’t more of this farmer-friendly crop planted. And in some ways, the grapes are similar to Syrah and Tempranillo.

“It’s an early ripening grape that’s got big juicy berries with loose clusters, and we can carry about five tons to the acre,” Roth said. “In 2007, they came off pretty early — around mid-September — and that was our first crop from those vines, which we planted in 2005.

“In a cooler year like 2010, it was late September,” he added. “I still haven’t seen what they can do in a really hot vintage.”

However, Roth must bring in the Grenache berries before they produce flabby wines.

“It’s a very low-acid grape,” he said.

“You get the balance of acidity and flavors pretty quickly. The grape doesn’t have to get to 25 or 26 brix. It can be 23 brix when you harvest it.”

His 2007 Grenache comes with tones of fresh-picked raspberries and huge acidity.

The dried apricots and raisins in the chutney bring out a sense of sweetness in the dry red wine, but the acidity sweeps clean

ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press

Northwest’s managing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest.

Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

any perception of sugar.

The potato pancake and kale shows a savory and earthy side of the wine.

Roth offered one suggestion.

“Drink the hell out of it.”

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

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M AT C H M A K E R S Pork Chops with Apricot Chutney, Gravy and Potato Pancakes is paired with Tagaris Winery 2007 Alice Vineyard Grenache.

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO & SPOKANE

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

fee and black licorice, yet a suppleness of blackberry jam. It’s a stone-cold lover.

Wine evaluation methods

Dunham Cellars

Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “blind,” meaning the tasting panelists don’t know the producer. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures.

Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate.

The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon XII

Red Cabernet Sauvignon

won a Platinum in 2010, so this vintage likely needs just a bit more time to come around.

Cliff Creek Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley, 1,688 cases, 14.3% alc., $45,

Excellent. Two estate vineyards — Lewis in the

Yakima Valley and Double River in the Walla Walla Valley — are blended for a rich delivery of red currant, black cherry and blackberries.

Tucked into the corners are notes of gingerbread, mint, coffee and Earl Grey tea.

Dumas Station Wines 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 511 cases, 15.3% alc., $32

Excellent. The folks at Minnick Hills Vineyard cel-

ebrated their fifth vintage with this fascinating offering, which is warm with vanilla and smoke aromas that swirl with black cherry cola, rosemary, sage and thyme. It’s a sturdy drink that stretches broadly across the palate with notes of plum, raspberry, salted caramels, saddle leather and a pinch of juniper berry.

Airfield Estates

Southern Oregon, 428 cases, 13.4% alc., $24

Dusted Valley Vintners

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

Recommended. A straightforward, medium-bodied

2007 V.R. Special Cabernet Sauvignon

Yakima Valley, 779 cases, 14.4% alc., $22

Cab, it's light in the aromas, but the drink is reminiscent of Red Velvet Cake with its theme of raspberry, red currants, strawberry and mocha coffee.

Columbia Valley, 225 cases, 15.3% alc., $53

Recommended. Spicy raspberry and Van cherry

hints include coffee and cedar. Then some jammy blackberry flavors on the midpalate give way to pinch of brambleberry seed tannin.

Columbia Crest

Cathedral Ridge Winery

Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 14.4% alc., $40

2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Excellent. A younger brother to the muchacclaimed 2005 version, it’s rather robust with barrel notes of tiramisu, root beer and Graham cracker crust, backed by blackberry. The drink features black cherry and currant jam with some brambleberry, earthiness, shaved chocolate and taut tannin. Suggested pairings include braised lamb shank, Peking duck or puttanesca.

Columbia Valley, 171 cases, 14.6% alc., $44

Outstanding! Hillside Vineyard in The Dalles, Ore., gave winemaker Michael Sebastiani all he needed to produce what may be his best effort for this scenic winery in Hood River, Ore. The influence of barrel is significant, with chocolatechip cookie and cherry tobacco aromas, but there’s still plenty of room in the nose for fruit that hints at dusty boysenberry, pomegranate and a whiff of sea air. The drink is light, bright and easy with chocolate-covered cherries, raspberry extract and a pinch of tobacco.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 240,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

Outstanding! A stunning wine at any price, and

the scale of production is equally amazing. It’s interesting to note that the components include Syrah (9%), Mourvèdre and Grenache, which helps explain the tremendous breadth across the palate. There’s blueberry, black cherry jam, lavender, lilac and minerality in the nose, followed by more cherry jam flavors. Oak and tannins show up mainly as Belgian chocolate, but a squeeze more of blueberry and some slate in the finish add to the layers of complexity.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Ethos Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 14.5% alc., $38

Excellent. Aromas begin with boysenberry, cassis

and stewed plums, backed by coffee and chocolate. It turns into an unctuous drink that blossoms with cherries, chocolate and plums, capped by black chai in the finish. The 2006 version of this

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2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Coyote Canyon Winery 2008 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 255 cases, 14.3% alc., $22

Outstanding! Mike Andrews and his family run one of Washington’s largest vineyards, and this young winery in Prosser is growing in stature, too. This remarkable presentation comes with nicely concentrated aromas of poached plums, raspberry, blueberry taffy, leather, Red Vines licorice, toasted marshmallow and latté sprinkled with nutmeg. The drink is rich all the way with ripe Bing cherries, raspberry, dried blueberry, red currants and green peppercorns.

There’s a bit of grip, but acidity of red blackberries keeps it in the rear.

Desert Wind Vineyard 2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope, 3,760 cases, 14.5% alc., $18

Excellent. The “Sconni boys” used Wisconsin oak

and took extra care with their tribute to “Grandpa” Vernon Rhodes. His chocolate-chip cookies would warm anyone up, and this is chock-full of bittersweet chocolate, black currants, dark cherries, plums, hazelnuts and even some butterscotch chips in the back. A firm tug of tannin and DVV’s remarkable skill with acidity make the finish sing.

Gård Vintners 2007 Lawrence Vineyards Twenty Six Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 73 cases, 13.9% alc., $40

Excellent. The Lawrence family adopted a Scandinavian term for “farm” as the name of its winery operation in the Frenchman Hills of Washington. Wide-ranging winemaker Robert Smasne produced the blend of clones 2 and 6 into a huge offering of blackberry, chocolate and coffee. Its rich structure also carries cassis and black licorice into the finish of managed tannins.

Heymann Whinery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 60 cases, 13.6% alc., $24

Recommended. The Heymanns continue their

relationship with Harold Pleasant’s vineyard near Prosser, and this bottling is rustic and an easy drink with cassis, pie cherries, crushed leaf, roasted bell pepper and tobacco.

H/H Estates 2008 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Big John Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Outstanding! Here’s a wine that strikes out with

Horse Heaven Hills, 114 cases, 14.3% alc., $32

soul and power from the raising of the curtain to the final note. Black currants, boysenberry, blackberry, dark chocolate, grilled Portobello mushroom and black olives create the vibe.

And the proud, sinewy baseline of the drink is akin to the R&B sound of the Isley Brothers.

There’s gusto of bold cherry, French press cof-

Excellent. Here’s the more elegant, top-tier label

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for Coyote Canyon Winery in Prosser, Wash.

This Cab is a tribute to a bull that fetched a top price at a stock show. Indeed, open the barn door to a big drink of dark, unctuous black fruit, coconut and Graham cracker that keeps on moving and carries some hefty tannin.

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recent releases Jacksonville Vineyards 2006 Fiasco Cabernet Sauvignon Applegate Valley, 120 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

Recommended. A straightforward 100% offering of

Cab, it has a lot of offer, starting with sweet and spicy aromas of cassis, cedar, green olive, rose petal, leather and crushed leaf. There’s a nice rollout of cherries and currants again on the entry to the palate, and late tannins give it plenty of heft.

building it for collectors’ cellars and the dinner table. Its nose is brimming with blueberry, caramel, moist earth, capsicum and porcini mushroom, and the structure is one of finesse featuring black currants, pie cherry and green olive. The savory aspect and very late grip of tannin will play out well alongside a tapenade.

2007 Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon

Recommended. Skyline Vineyard near Caldwell,

ences can cozy up to this as 18 months of 80% French oak cast off aromas of chocolate, black licorice, backed by cassis, pink peppercorns and a slice of jalapeno cheese bread. The structure features cassis and pie cherries, presented with high acidity and medium tannins. Hints of black olive, more licorice and earthiness give this an Old World feel with lots of food applications.

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Umpqua Valley, 200 cases, 12.8% alc., $35

Recommended. This easy-going Cab got its start

two years before this young Southern Oregon winery opened its tasting room. It shows sweet Rainier cherries, currants, endearing chocolaty tones, cracked red peppercorns and a shy tannin structure.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Merlot Outstanding! One seemingly cannot go wrong with

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

Nk’Mip Cellars Recommended. Those who warm up to barrel influ-

Washington. Then again, inserting Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) probably kept the tannin in check. Suggested fare includes lamb or fowl influenced by sweet herbs.

Columbia Valley, 160,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

Vale Wine Co. Snake River Valley, 94 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Okanagan Valley, 640 cases, 14.5% alc., $30 CDN

WINE REVIEWS

Idaho, and winemaker John Danielson worked together for a dark and lingering drink of cassis, cola, alder-smoked bacon, sarsaparilla and crushed leaf. Dusty tannins emerge in the tarry finish.

William Church Winery 2007 Molly’s Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon

a Cabernet or a Merlot made from this vintage by red winemaker Joshua Maloney and his boss, Bob Bertheau. It’s supercharged with some Syrah (8%) and Malbec (3%), which give it aromatics of raspberry, pie cherry, Medjool date, saddle leather and chocolate. There’s a subtle opulence on the approach as currants, cherries, chocolate and spicy tobacco play out in a medium structure with easy tannins. Bertheau refers to this an “everyday red,” but it’s more special than that.

Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 14.5% alc., $29

Columbia Crest

Recommended. They’ve named this bottling in

2007 Reserve Merlot

support of a late friend who launched a foundation for diabetes and transplant research. The Balsleys will donate some of the proceeds from this bottling of currants, blueberry, plums, horehound, fresh beets and hazelnut.

Merlot

Columbia Valley, 2,000 cases, 14.4% alc., $25

Recommended. The portfolio for this lot features a

lively approach with Black Republic cherry, blueberry, lean blackberry, Swisher Sweet cigar and cinnamon with Baker’s chocolate, black coffee and slight gritty tannins.

Gray Monk Cellars

Airfield Estates

2008 Odyssey Dry Creek Merlot

2008 Merlot

Okanagan Valley, 2,950 cases, 14.6% alc., $18

Yakima Valley, 852 cases, 15.8% alc., $22

St. Laurent Winery

Recommended. Inviting density in the aromatics

Outstanding! Boysenberry, dried cherry tomato,

2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

rich pizza sauce and chocolate aromas spill out into flavors of ripe president plums, red currants and boysenberries. It’s a balanced, smooth and mouth-filling drink, and the berries and chocolate tones drift on forever.

includes boysenberry jam, blueberry, nutmeg, Hoisin sauce and pencil lead. Marionberry leads the easy entry to the palate, followed by blueberry acidity, red currants and a bite of a Twix bar. The generous tannins will be nicely served with lamb chops and mint jelly.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards

Foxy Roxy Wines

2008 Merlot

2008 Merlot

Saviah Cellars

Columbia Valley, 292 cases, 14.4% alc., $26

Columbia Valley, 175 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Recommended. Classic notes of black currants,

Recommended. Idaho winemaker Kevin Rogers is

Walla Walla Valley, 640 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

plums, leather and cocoa powder include some Rainier cherry juiciness and raspberry acidity.

working with this estate winery for StoneRidge Vineyards in the Frenchman Hills near Othello, Wash. Black cherry, plump blueberry, black licorice and smooth chocolate notes make this straightforward, tasty and ready to drink now.

Wahluke Slope, 210 cases, 14.6% alc., $30

Recommended. This full-on Cab provides notes of

cassis, blackberry and cocoa powders. There’s lots of spice from black pepper and cinnamon, some mintiness and firm tannins from the midpalate on back.

Excellent. Richard Funk makes this in an almost-

trademark Walla Walla fashion — warm oak tones and hedonistic extraction of fruit from venerable Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and McClellan Estate. Those who enjoy that will love the presentation of vanilla bean, cherry wood, plums, blackberry, eucalyptus, black olive and coffee aromas. It's silky on the attack with black cherry and marionberry flavors. In the back, you’ll find lingering blueberry acidity, lots of bittersweet chocolate and a Coffee Nip.

Syringa Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Idaho, 180 cases, 14.5% alc., $21

Recommended. Mike Crowley’s boutique winery

serves in part as a tribute to his late sister, who left behind a daughter named after the Idaho state flower. The Cab, made in Garden City, gives a warm impression of black cherry with oak influences of chocolate malt, vanilla extract and a cup of coffee.

Three Rivers Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 2,200 cases, 14.6% alc., $21

Excellent. Holly Turner gave this broad appeal, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Bookwalter Winery 2008 Foreshadow Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,468 cases, 15.2% alc., $40

Outstanding! Heady aromas explode like a chocolate smoke bomb, but there’s also boysenberry, cherry, leather, coffee, cigar leaf and tar notes among the table of contents. On the attack, one gets the sense of the Syrah (11%) with the sweet blackberry flavors, met by boysenberry, blueberry and late tannin. The structure is both hedonistic and powerful — thanks to the Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun connection — with lots of chapters to go through.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2008 Merlot Columbia Valley, 2,128 cases, 13.7% alc., $20

Excellent. The Gordons are into their fourth decade of growing grapes along the Snake River near Pasco, Wash. Their winemaker, Tim Henley, developed a fruity and sturdy Merlot that carries tones of boysenberry, black cherry and Craisins with milk chocolate and Earl Grey tea.

Hightower Cellars 2007 Merlot

2007 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot

Columbia Valley, 336 cases, 14.2% alc., $25

Horse Heaven Hills, 9,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $22

Outstanding! Tim and Kelly Hightower created a

Outstanding! This prized site bears fruit that can

Merlot from mostly Red Mountain fruit that shows more finesse and feminine qualities than many of their neighbors. The sense of panache shows in the nose of raspberry, slate, Belgian chocolate, cinnamon and twist of lime. Envision freshpicked president plums with black raspberries for flavors, joined by a light touch of oak. The finish includes black currants and a rub of lavender.

shoulder a bold program of French oak for 18 months, and the interaction shows in notes of black cherry, blueberry jam, sun-ripened blackberry and a steaming pour of espresso. It’s cherries and chocolate on the palate. Tannins are sinewy rather than brawny, which has come to be accepted from Merlot made in

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NK’Mip Cellars 2007 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 3,879 cases, 14.5% alc., $20 CDN

Excellent. Being as this vineyard is so close to

the border, it makes sense that Randy Picton’s release drinks similar to a Washington Merlot.

Boysenberry, dark cherry, blackberry and tobacco aromas include hints of leather and beef juice. It’s more boysenberry and marionberry to the tongue with a rich mouth feel, backed by chocolate-covered cherries and tannins that are chalky yet integrated.

Page Cellars 2007 The Norseman Merlot Red Mountain, 241 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Outstanding! Woodinville, Wash., winemaker/pilot

Jim Page names this wine after a 1935 fabricskinned plane, and he made this a smooth ride.

The construction from E&E Shaw Vineyard catches air with wide-ranging aromas of Bing cherry, raspberry, cedar, lime, celery stalk and chalkboard dust. He sticks the landing in opulent fashion with black cherry, boysenberry and loganberry, throttling down with bittersweet chocolate and black licorice.

Pend d’Oreille Winery

of Merlot opens with whispers of cassis, black cherry, strawberry, dusty blueberry, pink peppercorns and hot cocoa. On the palate, it checks in with more strawberry, cherry and chocolate, before checking out with a cup of blueberry tea.

The Pines 1852 2008 The Pines Vineyard Merlot Columbia Gorge, 200 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Excellent. Peter Rosback became famous in

Oregon for Pinot Noir, but he’s made exceptional Merlot from Columbia Valley fruit for years under his Sineann label. He seems entrenched as the hired gun at Lonnie Wright’s winery in Hood River, Ore., with this easy offering of dark cherries, cranberry, Medjool dates, Days Work tobacco and allspice.

Thurston Wolfe 2008 Merlot Washington, 25 cases, 14.3% alc., $28

Excellent. Crawford Vineyard on the outskirts of

Prosser helped Wade Wolfe bring out aromas of red currants, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup and moist earth. The currants and confection carry onto the nicely packaged drink, backed by dark plums, raspberry and a hint of eucalyptus.

2006 Merlot

Airfield Estates 2009 Reserve Syrah Yakima Valley, 191 cases, 14.7% alc., $35

Outstanding! No holding back here, it’s 100% Syrah and ready to drink. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, pomegranate, chocolate, vanilla bean and savory sage aromas find redemption in the mouth. Flavors ramp up with cherry jam and blueberry jelly in a somewhat lighter structure with some smokiness, nice acidity and a fresh-brewed mocha.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2007 Barrel Select Syrah Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 14.5% alc., $59

Excellent. Tedd Wildman’s StoneTree Vineyard on

the Wahluke Slope continues to pop up in some of the best reds made in Washington. Smoky oak aromas don’t stand up to the hints of blueberry, spicy tomato and beef blood spattering on a hot grill. The drink is filled with blackberry and marionberry flavors that make this juicy. Red licorice and peppermint saunter onto the midpalate, and the oak tones impart some chocolate in the finish.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2008 Francisca’s Vineyard Princess Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 150 cases, 14.2% alc., $48

Excellent. This gathering of Pepper Bridge, Dwelley, Seven Hills, Killian and Spring Creek helps make for a lovely nose of Rainier cherry, rose petal, Nilla Wafer and hickory. There’s more of the same on the palate with Chukar Cherry, nutty caramel, cloves, menthol and tobacco.

Outstanding! Tim and Cisca Rogan’s parcel has become a major cog for the female-owned winery. It’s unmistakably Syrah with in-your-face gaminess and gunmetal aromas, supported by cordial cherries, dark plums, black pepper and vanilla bourbon extract. Slice up a blackberry pie, toss in some blueberries and black currants and you’ve got a sense for the flavors. It’s a smooth and stylish wine as the tannins merely carry the fruit along.

Excellent. Bordeaux varieties continue to show

Vale Wine Co.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards

well in British Columbia, and this Penticton winery crafted another fine example. Black cherry, blueberry, chocolate and red licorice aromas include juniper berry and oregano. There’s nice richness to the fruity entry of boysenberry and cherry, followed by a lift of raspberry and noticeable but not overwhelming tannin and a finish of chocolate.

2008 Merlot

Washington, 394 cases, 14.7% alc., $21

Walla Walla Vintners

Recommended. Grapes from Wells Vineyard in

2008 Merlot

Benton City and Coyote Canyon in the Horse Heaven Hills made their way to the Idaho Panhandle for this drink of cherry fruit leather, dark Muscovado sugar and pomegranate.

Walla Walla Valley, 800 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Pentâge Winery 2006 Merlot Okanagan Valley, 195 cases, 13.5% alc., $20 CDN

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars

Excellent. John Danielson continues to develop

his program, which has vineyards in Vale, Ore., along the Idaho border. Here’s one of his best productions, and it features blueberry pie, red currant, Five-Spice powder and nice char. Hints of grilled pomegranate and crème soda make for a lengthy finish.

2009 Merlot

Syrah

Umpqua Valley, 900 cases, 13.2% alc., $24

Recommended. Smooth blueberry, black cherry,

smoky chocolate and dark olive accents play out nicely with ample acidity and balanced tannins.

2007 She-Devil Syrah

Snake River Valley, 94 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Abacela 2008 Syrah

Columbia Valley, 650 cases, 14.6% alc., $20

Outstanding! It’s not clear how co-owners Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane arrived at the name of the wine. Danish winemaker Steffan Jorgensen may not say, but he’s got a heavenly touch with this variety. Here, he blended StoneTree (73%) and Francisca’s vineyards into one helluva Syrah — regardless of price.

Chocolate-covered cherries, allspice, sage, roasted coffee and black pepper aromas help prepare the palate. There, the focus is ripe blackberry with black cherry pie, allspice and chocolaty tannins that make it dark and lovely.

Southern Oregon, 292 cases, 13.7% alc., $19

Cinder Wines

St. Laurent Winery

Recommended. This plummy and jammy drink shows

2008 Syrah

2007 Estate Merlot

off lots cola and brown sugar accents, but its hallmark is the delicious mix of marionberry, blueberry, lingonberry and raspberry flavors and acidity.

Snake River Valley, 380 cases, 14.1% alc., $27

Wahluke Slope, 105 cases, 14.6% alc., $25

Recommended. Compelling aromas of Rainier cher-

ry, root beer, milk chocolate, tar and Bazooka bubble gum funnel into flavors of pomegranate, pie cherry and orange peel. Both the sturdy tannins and milk chocolate linger in the farewell.

SuLei Cellars 2008 Merlot Columbia Valley, 66 cases, 14.2% alc., $23

Excellent. Tanya Woodley has learned a lot about

winemaking, both as a product of the Walla Walla Community College wine program and working at Whitman Cellars. Her interpretation

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Agate Ridge Vineyard 2007 Syrah

Recommended. Melanie Krause’s gathering from Sawtooth, Skyline and Williamson vineyards creates a mood of black cherry, plums, cinnamon and bacon. Its acidity is reminiscent of blueberries, and there’s a sweet farewell of Milk Duds.

Rogue Valley, 211 cases, 13.8% alc., $23

Recommended. Made in a lighter structure from

estate blocks, this tribute by a Rogue Valley winery to France’s Rhône Valley is chock full of boysenberry, pie cherry, tangerine and pink peppercorn tones. The acidity stays just ahead of the tannins, and there are fascinating notes of slate, hickory, salted caramels and even Mike & Ike candy.

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Claar Cellars 2008 White Bluffs Syrah Columbia Valley, 256 cases, 13.5% alc., $17

Outstanding! This second-generation vineyard/winery near Tri-Cities, Wash., continues to amaze, and here’s one of the best expressions of Syrah you will find at any price.

It’s plummy and smoky from the first whiff with W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases bacon, scraped vanilla bean, Starbuck’s liqueur, brown sugar and Graham cracker. The drink is hugely hedonistic with blackberry, plum and French-press coffee. Its acidity is lively with late-arriving tannins and French vanilla ice cream in the finish.

Cliff Creek Cellars 2005 Estate Syrah Southern Oregon, 1,785 cases, 14.1% alc., $25

Outstanding! The Garvin family’s Sams Valley

Vineyard in Gold Hill provides a shining example of age-worthy Syrah in the Northwest. Hints of bacon fat, black pepper, boysenberry syrup and violets in the aromas lead to smooth and lengthy flavors of blueberry and smoky chocolate.

Critical to the structure is the remarkable way the acidity overwhelms the tannins, which are reminiscent of black tea and a Fuji apple peel.

Columbia Crest 2008 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Reserve Syrah Horse Heaven Hills, 400 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Excellent. Here’s quite a feather in the cap of the

Andrews family, who make some outstanding wines under the name of their own vineyard.

Blueberry, vanilla, gunmetal and minerality aromas also bring to mind savory notes of duck breast in a reduction sauce. On the palate are juicy boysenberry, pomegranate and fresh cranberry, bringing more acidity than one normally would expect from a Syrah. Beets and sandy tannins in the back make this a savory drink.

Dunham Cellars 2006 Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,647 cases, 14.6% alc., $35

Recommended. A variety of rich and sweet notes

come packaged, primarily blackberries, smoked bacon and gingersnap cookie dough. It’s a plummy drink that’s ready to roll now because of its low acidity and mild tannin.

Eaglemount Winery 2007 Syrah Wahluke Slope, 100 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

Recommended. This small Olympic Peninsula win-

ery released a lively drink with blueberry, cranberry, pie cherry and red pepper flakes, making it spicy and juicy.

El Corazon Winery

marks of this drink. There’s nice richness of fudge-covered, backed by frontal acidity, then it yields to tannins akin to graphite.

Hightower Cellars 2008 Murray Syrah Red Mountain, 198 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Recommended. The winery dog gets his name and

his face on this bottle, which will help you retrieve thoughts of blueberry, stewed plums, mincemeat pie, black pepper and currant jam. There’s nice tartness and spice to its medium body, trailed by white pepper and a dusting of cocoa powder.

Lake Chelan Winery 2008 Rivers Bend Estate Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 13.7% alc., $28

Outstanding! Jonathon Kludt continues to create some great wines to serve at the family’s fun barbecue stop overlooking the lake. However, this crop is from a site that overlooks the Yakima River near Benton City, Wash. It’s a nose filled with boysenberry, blackberry, smoke and leather. The drink is stylish, smooth, juicy and fruit-forward, leading with those brambleberries and finished with some black tea.

LeVieux Pin 2008 Syrah Okanagan Valley, 487 cases, 13.9% alc., $45

Excellent. Golden Mile and Black Sage vineyard

grapes were cropped down to 3.1 tons per acre.

That begins to explain the condensed nature of this juice. A quick nosing draws in bacon fat, raspberry, blueberry, saddle leather and cigar. There’s no disappointment on the palate, which drinks lively and evenly with smoky and peppery notes.

WINE REVIEWS

are drawn to these plantings in Zillah. Bill Owen and Rob Sullivan were among the early shoppers, and here’s their fourth release from this vineyard. The nose shows cherry chocolate milk, boysenberry, root beer candy, molasses and a Fig Newton. They built this with a medium body and made it juicy with a depth of boysenberry, blackberry and strawberry.

Pentâge Winery 2007 Syrah Okanagan Valley, 100 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. There’s such a presence of fresh-picked blueberries throughout this offering that you might be tempted to pour it over a stack of flapjacks. It’s a nose filled with pure blueberry syrup with some plum, blackberry, raspberry and earthiness. Blueberry leads the flavors, which are soon overtaken by a blackberry jam midpalate and a farewell of black pepper and coffee.

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars 2007 Reserve Syrah Umpqua Valley, 600 cases, 12.9% alc., $35

Excellent. The Apodacas hail from the Basque

region of Spain, and their young winery along the banks of the South Umpqua River offers up a version of Syrah that’s more versatile than most. There’s a rustic quality to the nose of cassis, cedar, anise, beef juice and smoky cedar. The drink is lively with lots of raspberry, boysenberry and more currants. It’s bright acidity and bite of raspberry seed tannin will pair well with tomato-based dishes or venison.

Quady North 2007 Syrah 4-2, A Umpqua Valley, 420 cases, 13.7% alc., $25

Lost River Winery 2007 Cote-Wall Columbia Valley, 192 cases, 13.9% alc., $26

Outstanding! John Morgan’s Methow Valley winery brought in Syrah (92%) from Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and co-fermented it with Viognier — and seemingly Cascade huckleberries. The nose is mountainous with marionberry, moist earth and minerality, backed by plums, black cherry, black licorice, cigar and gaminess. It’s melt-in-your-mouth huckleberry on the palate, chased by dark black cherry, allspice and coffee.

Excellent. While it may be difficult to decode some of Herb Quady’s labels and names for his wines, drinking them comes easily. A 2010 Platinum winner for his 2008 Cabernet Franc, he blends Serenade, Sams Valley, Steelhead Run and Fly High vineyards. It runs the table of plums, milk chocolate, bacon, gun metal and graphite. The palate is nearly bulletproof because of the concentrated fruit core and growing brambleberry acidity. A slab of pork ribs will tastefully deal with its bite of blackberry seed tannin. As for 4-2, A? It was coined by his daughter, who described her blend of water and juice as “fortooay” — as in Cabernet, Chardonnay …

2009 With Love Syrah

McKinley Springs Winery

Horse Heaven Hills, 90 cases, 14.9% alc., $23

2007 Syrah

St. Laurent Winery

Horse Heaven Hills, 365 cases, 15.2% alc., $20

2007 Estate Syrah

Excellent. Blueberry ice cream, boysenberry and

Wahluke Slope, 105 cases, 14.5% alc., $28

peaberry accents pick up lots of chocolate, some meatiness and assertive tannins in the finish.

Excellent. The Mracheks were among the savvy folks to sink vines in the Wahluke Slope, and the ripeness of the fruit shows here. It’s Syrah, so of course there’s a tone of blackberry to the nose, then come strawberry, pomegranate, coffee and a malted milk ball. Lush and juicy describes the spilling of plum and strawberry flavors. On the midpalate is boysenberry acidity, followed by hints of soft pencil lead and vanilla bean.

Excellent. The teeny-weeny operation just a block

from the Whitman College campus picks up more followers every semester. Wines such as this are the reason, and their booty from Phinny Hill Vineyard opens up with a nice extraction of boysenberry, black cherry, a raspberry Danish, a cedar strip and some gaminess. The flavors are of a bubbling boysenberry and Old Orchard Pomegranate-Cherry Juice and smooth chocolate with a core of ample acidity and minimal tannin.

Heymann Whinery 2007 Syrah Yakima Valley, 75 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Recommended. No, it’s not a typo. The fun-loving

Heymanns put the “whine” in their Chehalis, Wash., winery. Black cherry, chocolate, root beer and boysenberry accents are the hallW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Mission Hill Family Estate 2007 S.L.C. Select Lot Collection Syrah Okanagan Valley, 14% alc., $37 CDN

Recommended. This icon in the Okanagan Valley

offers up a drink that carries notes of pomegranates, pie cherries, saddle leather, minerality, Milk Duds and a sense of gaminess. The acidity and smooth finish will pair well with fowl.

Saviah Cellars 2007 Syrah

O•S Winery

Walla Walla Valley, 217 cases, 14.1% alc., $32

2007 Dineen Vineyard Syrah

Recommended. Finding an oak-filled Syrah with

Yakima Valley, 45 cases, 14.6% alc., $25

Excellent. Some of the top wineries in Washington

gobs of food-friendly acidity isn’t easy, so here’s one to take note of. Smoky bacon, blackberry,

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Airfield Estates 2009 Lone Birch Red Yakima Valley, 2,096 cases, 14.8% alc., $10

Outstanding! The talented Marcus Miller launches this second label with an amazing lighter-styled red from Merlot (38%), Grenache (26%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Barbera (8%), Sangiovese (7%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Cinsault. There's a delicate nose of strawberry, rhubarb, black cherry and milk chocolate. On the palate, it's black cherry from beginning to end, backed by blueberry, lingering mincemeat spice and late grip. Glug away.

Airfield Estates 2009 Runway Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 1,122 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Recommended. A clean nose of

strawberry/rhubarb pie and blueberries includes some barrel notes akin to blackberry jam spread on a toasted English muffin. The cherry, vanilla bean and molasses accents come with blueberry tartness amid a low tannin profile.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyard

pie and blackberry continue onto the tongue, where cherry skins and tannin take command.

It’s unlikely you find this in the tasting room, as this has been geared for distribution.

Airfield Estates 2008 Runway Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley, 796 cases, 15% alc., $15

Excellent. Marcus Miller puts his wines in

Hills Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills and made by Silver Lake's Bill Ammons, so it's a quaffer. There's no pretense, with black cherry, black currant jam and chocolate-covered pomegranate berries with some chalkiness.

And it comes in a 3-liter cask, which works out to less than $5 a bottle.

Brown Box Wine

screwcap like the Aussies would a Shiraz, and he’s priced it not much north of one.

There’s a smoky nuttiness to the nose, which includes blackberry jam, black cherry, molasses and vanilla extract. On the attack, it’s a lighter-styled Syrah, leading with boysenberry and blueberry. There’s a nice little girth to the drink, and it should handle richly flavored meats such as ribs or a juicy steak.

2008 Merlot

Brown Box Wine

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

Washington, 1,500 cases, 12.5% alc., $19

Recommended. Indeed, it comes in a brown

box with a 3-liter bag inside, which means this delivery of ripe Bing cherries, sweet licorice and bittersweet chocolate can be enjoyed over the course of several Tuesday nights, rather than two days on the counter.

Buried Cane

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

Washington, 5,628 cases, 13.4% alc., $13

Washington, 1,500 cases, 12.5% alc., $19

Recommended. From the owners of Cadaretta in

Recommended. It's all Cab, all from the Roza

Walla Walla comes this widely distributed,

duction featuring deep dark cherry, blueberry and boysenberry with smoked bacon, chocolate and Black Silk tobacco.

palate screams “take me to the Loire” because of the juicy red cherry and cranberry acidity. A turn of the peppermill, some anise and reduced tannin open the cupboard to possibilities.

2008 Reserve Syrah

William Church Winery

Snake River Valley, 675 cases, 14.5% alc., $19

2008 Jennifer’s Vintage Syrah

O•S Winery

Outstanding! Greg Koenig’s winemaking talents

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 15.1% alc., $25

2008 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc

and Gary Cunningham’s organic vineyard are proving to be a delicious partnership. Toasted oak aromas are akin to a fresh-baked brownie and readily joined by blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry and leather. Skill shows on the palate with a smooth entry of soft fruit, vibrant acidity and a nice hit of sweet chocolate before the arrival of tannin. Pair alongside tenderloin with a berry reduction sauce.

Excellent. Three highly regarded vineyards —

Horse Heaven Hills, 245 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Dineen, Red Willow and Stillwater Creek — play significant roles in this opulent offering.

The nose features hints of blackberry jam, black pepper, Aussie black licorice, smoked ham hock and celery leaf. Many features become capitalized on the palate, starting with a sweet blackberry approach, rolling acidity and thick tannins. A slice of chocolate cake with raspberry jam shows up, along with vanilla extract. Enjoy with a porterhouse steak or pork bellies with cracklings.

Excellent. The plan to reduce the alcohol in their

Cabernet Franc

Outstanding! Only one barrel’s worth was created using grapes from McKinley Springs Vineyard, which makes this even more coveted. Influence from American and Hungarian oak makes for an incredibly expressive and smoky nose of strawberry, Van cherry, chocolate cake and vanilla, backed by whiffs of cedar frond, pink peppercorn and crushed leaf. In the mouth, there is a solid core of maraschino cherry, lively strawberry and fresh-picked raspberry with a stray leaf. Lovely acidity, balanced alcohol and a gradual tannin structure make this enjoyable on its own or delicious with Salisbury steak.

Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2008 Syrah Rogue Valley, 196 cases, 14.6% alc., $28

Recommended. The Willamette Valley’s Jacques

Tardy headed to Southern Oregon for these grapes, and he brought back a wine filled with juicy boysenberry, blueberry and cherry extract, backed by Intriguing minerality, herbs and chocolate syrup.

Tsillan Cellars 2007 Barrel Select Syrah Lake Chelan, 490 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

El Corazon Winery 2009 First Crush Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 80 cases, 14.8% alc., $23

Recommended. Cassis, crushed leaf, pie cherry,

milk chocolate, tar and leather make up the theme of this savory, high-acid, low-tannin drink.

Recommended. Darker accents of dusty plums,

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

cola, cordial cherry, dates and moist earth gather up enjoyable acidity and get a late grab of tannin.

2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Cabernet Franc

Walla Walla Vintners

Outstanding! This winery along the gateway to North Cascades National Park does consistent work producing food-friendly wines. The trip to Kiona (55%), Dineen (33%) and Pleasant vineyards sets the table for aromas of raspberry, pie cherry, strawberry candy and black pepper, backed by minerality and crushed leaf. The

2008 Morrison Lane Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 96 cases, 14.5% alc., $32

Recommended. Abundant oak often serves as the

thumbprint from Walla Walla’s famous redroofed barn. Their fans should relish this pro-

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Yakima Valley, 225 cases, 14.4% alc., $18

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work with this variety is paying dividends at this winery near Seattle’s Boeing Field. Its nose flashes lots of cedar, pomegranate and blueberry, along with Dr Pepper and slate. Between the lips are lots of pie cherries, juicy raspberry and lean blackberry.

Thurston Wolfe 2008 Cabernet Franc Washington, 25 cases, 14.3% alc., $28

Saviah Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley, 262 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Excellent. As a drink, it’s dreamy. The only knock

is that there’s almost none of the leafy character some Cab Franc fans adore. The product of McClellan, Seven Hills and Watermill vines comes with aromas of raspberries, cherries W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

bringing vanilla extract, Graham cracker and black cherries. Everything is balanced on the palate, showing a smooth entry of chocolate-covered cherry, huckleberry dusted with cocoa powder and just a touch of tannin.

Tannins add support.

Columbia Valley, 60 cases, 12% alc., $12

Columbia Crest

Excellent. A tasty and fruity pink made from

2008 H3 Merlot

(38%) and Lonesome Springs didn’t lose any zestiness during their trip over the Cascades.

Exotic wood notes carry down into the aromas of Van cherry and raspberry. There’s blackberry, molasses and beef juice flavors, enjoyable acidity and bittersweet chocolate in its finish of tar and molasses.

fruit-forward value that stays true to the variety with an easy drink of big cherry notes, crushed leaf, eucalyptus and some grip at the end.

Claar Cellars NV White Bluffs Busty Blush Rosé

Sangiovese, it’s filled with a big cherry pie nose, hints of strawberry taffy, honey, apricot and a whiff of smoked charcuterie. There's better balance on the palate than one might think, leaning toward pie cherries and cranberry. It brings the acidity you’d expect from the Italian variety and some charming tannins.

Columbia Crest 2008 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 225,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $12

Excellent. Celebrity chef Bobby Flay can defi-

nitely get cooking with this bargain that seems to have been spared little expense when it came to fine barrels. It shows in the nose with black cherry and blueberry just in front of roasted coffee beans, leather, chocolate and flannel. On the pour, it’s easy to get into as blackberry and boysenberry flavors show depth in a pleasing balance of acidity and tannin.

Columbia Crest 2007 Grand Estates Syrah Columbia Valley, 10,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Recommended. An oaky approach creates

notes of chocolate, cinnamon and clove.

Underneath, the addition of Grenache (8%) brings a mood of finesse with plums, Medjool dates, some nice minerality, a thread of red blackberry acidity, anise and milk chocolate.

Columbia Crest 2008 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 40,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! The largest winery in the Northwest was also the first to set up shop in the Horse Heaven Hills. Here’s the fourth vintage of this label, and it’s a doozy from the start with aromas of cassis, black cherry, roasted meat, Dutch chocolate and green tea.

The drink starts with a dollop of black currant jam, backed by pomegranate and raspberry.

Rich, chocolaty tannins merely impart a nice tightness.

Columbia Crest 2008 H3 Les Chevaux Horse Heaven Hills, 5,500 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Juan Muñoz-Oca, who heads up the red wine team, shows that he’s coming into his own with this blend of Merlot (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Syrah (20%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Malbec. First, there’s a big puff of smoke in the nose,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Horse Heaven Hills, 40,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Ray Einberger has brought this wine a long way since it debuted at a mere 9,000 cases in 2005. Velvety aromas include just the right amount of good oakiness to present black cherry, blueberry, pipe tobacco, a hint of mint and milk chocolate. You’ll be hard-pressed to find an easier-drinking Merlot, as this provides a full mouth feel of macerated Bing cherries, blackberry jam and Baker’s chocolate. It finishes with black licorice.

Mount Baker Vineyard & Winery 2008 Barrel Select Sangiovese Yakima Valley, 300 cases, 13.9% alc., $15

Excellent. Grapes from Kiona (46%), Crawford

Ridge Crest 2008 Merlot Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 13.8% alc., $10

Recommended. This second label for Claar

Cellars continues to deliver value. Look for accents of blueberry, cherry, watermelon, chocolate and tobacco in a savory structure.

Coyote Canyon Winery

Ste. Chapelle

NV Downtown Red

2009 Chateau Series Soft Red

Columbia Valley, 1,194 cases, 14.3% alc., $12

Snake River Valley, 25,000 cases, 10.5% alc., $7

Excellent. Neither the sketch of a rather

Excellent. Whether or not you appreciate its

androgynous person on the label nor the price should be a discouragement to discover this drink-now wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Brambleberries and barrel notes of toasted almond, vanilla and chocolate become enhanced with savory sage, lavender and noble fir aromas. There’s a pleasing blend of tartness and tannin, making it worthy of inviting over for a Tuesday night dinner — whoever that person is.

style, this off-dry offering is the most popular red wine made in Idaho. And it does have curb appeal because it drinks like a very offdry rosé (6.5% residual sugar). There’s complexity in the attractive aromas of crushed strawberry, horehound and dried oregano — which shows the influence of Cabernet Franc in this blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The palate could be mistaken for an adult Hawaiian Punch, bringing more strawberry and some blueberry with lemon bar creaminess and acidity. A bit of grip at the end will pair well with BBQ ribs on a hot day.

Daven Lore Winery NV Recovery Red Washington, 14.9% alc., $20

Excellent. If the bill passes, Gordon Taylor will

be able to pour samples of this wine at the Prosser farmers market every Saturday. He offers this blend of Merlot (47%), Syrah (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (24%) and Petit Verdot in a 1-liter, refillable clear Grolsch-style bottle. He refills it — for just $10 — with a tasty drink that’s loaded with penetrating purple fruit, baker’s chocolate and serviceberry chalkiness.

McKinley Springs Winery 2008 Bombing Range Red Horse Heaven Hills, 2,385 cases, 14.6% alc., $12

Outstanding! This Andrews family still picks up .50-caliber casings left behind in their vineyards from the days when their farm served as a bombing range during World War II. Doug Rowell certainly nailed the coordinates with this blend of Syrah (52%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (4%) and Petit Verdot. Black cherry jam, Graham cracker, menthol, cedar and black licorice aromas lead the way. There’s fluidity to the satisfying structure on the palate with cherry pie, pomegranate, boysenberry, cassis and minerality.

St. Laurent Winery 2007 Estate Lucky Red Wahluke Slope, 1,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

Excellent. The Mracheks’ vast holdings in the

Columbia Valley come under the umbrella of Lucky Bohemian Farms. Drinkers of winemaker Craig Mitrakul’s amalgamation of their Syrah (65%) and Merlot should feel fortunate.

Cordial cherry, sweet herbs, moist earth and orange peel aromas transfer onto the palate.

The drink is easy with lots of dark cherry and chocolate surrounding a midpalate of rhubarb compote and cranberry.

Three Rivers Winery 2008 River’s Red Columbia Valley, 3,812 cases, 13.8% alc., $14

Recommended. Yes, Virginia, there is a bargain

wine or two made in Walla Walla, including this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Malbec (27%), Merlot (13%), Tempranillo (11%), Cabernet Franc (7%) and Petit Verdot.

Cordial cherry, plum, orange peel and eucalyptus notes join up in a creamy and juicy drink. Tannins gradually build to mere add texture and length.

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dusted with cocoa powder, pleasing minerality and a dab of resin. Richard Funk tailored the drink for a silky extraction that shows sweet black cherry and dark raspberry flavors. Acidity finishes just ahead of the tannin and leaves room for a pinch of horehound.

Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 757 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Outstanding! Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri launched their winery in 1995 and are recognized as the first winemakers in Washington to prominently feature this less-appreciated Bordeaux variety. They haven’t lost their touch with fruit from Weinbau, Sagemoor, Cordon Grove and Dwelley vineyards. The nose hints at black cherry, blueberry and boysenberry, with milk chocolate, leather and fallen autumn leaves. On the palate, it’s more of a crowdpleaser than most bottles of Cabernet Franc because of the focus on fruit rather than leafiness. It opens with blue fruit before the arrival of black cherry, leather and chocolate on the midpalate. Inky tannins yield to a beautiful cascade of more cherries in the finish.

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Sangiovese

brownie mix, roasted meat, tobacco and slate evolve into a very fruit-forward palate of more brambleberries. There’s nice cranberry-like acidity with barely a nibble of tannin.

this winery in Walla Walla, and Amy AlvarezWampfler creates volumes of interest with grapes from Desert Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. French oak barrels, Malbec (12%) off Les Collines and Cabernet Sauvignon (12%) from Lewis give it the feel of a Super Tuscan with scents of raspberry, boysenberry, Graham cracker and roasted coffee. The Italian grape shines on the palate with boysenberry and lots of blueberry acidity to override what little tannin there is.

And in the finish is a fun bit of cherry jellybean.

San Juan Vineyards

Walla Walla Vintners

2008 Sangiovese

2008 Sangiovese

Yakima Valley, 175 cases, 14.2% alc., $23

Columbia Valley, 845 cases, 14.2% alc., $24

Coyote Canyon Winery 2006 Sangiovese Horse Heaven Hills, 216 cases, 14.8% alc., $16

Excellent. Aromas of boysenberry, marionberry,

Recommended. New on our radar is Les Vignes

DeMarcoux Vineyard, sister to famed Red Willow Vineyard near the Mount Adams foothills. It supplied to fruit to this island destination winery that has turned out a brisk drink of juicy cranberry, raspberry and blueberry tea.

Sinclair Estate Vineyard 2008 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 222 cases, 14.35 alc., $28

Excellent. This marks just the second vintage for

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Excellent. A former student of Myles Anderson,

Bill vonMetzger, has taken over as the winemaker, and the focus of this Italian program will shift as their on-premise vines mature. For this vintage, though, Dwelley, Desert View and Kiona fit the bill. It’s a presentation of purple blackberry, Van cherry and cranberry that stays juicy through the midpalate. Sweet chocolate and a rub of tannin could match with tomato-based meat dishes or chicken molé.

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recent releases Tempranillo Abacela Winery 2008 Tempranillo Southern Oregon, 1,835 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Recommended. Alluring aromas of plums, Dr

Pepper, horehound, chocolate and dusty roses funnel into a bold drink of cherries and chocolate. It comes backed by racy blueberry acidity and tannins that will relax over time. Enjoy now with osso buco or some Famous Dave’s barbecue.

Airfield Estates 2009 Tempranillo Yakima Valley, 562 cases, 14.3% alc., $20

Recommended. A relatively new grape to the

Yakima Valley, this hits a lighter theme than most with accents of raspberry, strawberry/rhubarb compote, cherry extract, chalkboard dust and bit of tar.

tobacco. It’s blackberry and Bing cherry on the palate with nice sweetness, black olive, coffee and late-arriving tannins. Enjoy with paella.

Columbia Crest

Zerba Cellars

Recommended. This bold drink, harvested Sept.

2008 Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley, 14.4% alc., $38

Outstanding! Doug Nierman won a Platinum from us with his 2007 Temp, and this may be its match.

A blend of Les Collines and the Zerbas’ estate Cockburn vineyards, it’s ensconced in enchanting oak that yields aromas of fresh-baked brownie and cinnamon bark, joined by black cherry, raspberry, plums, blackberry and mint. Complexity shows on the plumy palate with blackberry, black licorice, black olive and chai. Its tannin structure is assertive, yet not over the top.

Zinfandel/Primitivo Agate Ridge Vineyard

2008 Reserve Tempranillo

Recommended. Eagle Point, Ore., isn’t too far

Wahluke Slope, 200 cases, 14.1% alc., $35

from the California border, and this has the feel of a California Zin with its strawberry jam, vanilla bean and brown sugar aromas. A dive into the drink brings up flavors of black cherry compote, Nutella, sweet prune whip and a fascinating texture of tannin that’s akin to flannel.

Thurston Wolfe 2008 Tempranillo Washington, 65 cases, 14.4% alc., $25

Excellent. Wade Wolfe’s skills in the vineyard and in the winery with this Spanish variety show he’s a quick study. It opens with warm barrel tones and aromas that hint at Double Cherry Sundae, backed by blackberry, mint, lilac and sweet

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Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 14.9% alc., $35

21, is filled with notes of cola syrup, vanilla extract, peppermint and a Cinnabon. It’s tied together with big acidity and hefty tannins.

Suggested fare includes a zesty chiliburger.

Thurston Wolfe 2008 Zephyr Ridge Primitivo Washington, 72 cases, 15.5% alc., $25

Outstanding! It’s believed that Wade Wolfe blazed the trail in Washington for this Italian clone of Zinfandel, being the first to plant and bottle it.

Inviting aromas of blueberry, mocha, coffee, cocoa and lime oil carry into ripe flavors of more blueberry, plums, strawberry and raspberry. Remarkable depth to the structure points out chalkiness and spice.

Malbec

Rogue Valley, 236 cases, 13.9% alc., $19

lots of different varieties, and here is the second vintage of a limited bottling for this Paterson, Wash., giant. “Temprano” is Spanish for “early,” and this lot was harvested Oct. 14. It makes for aromas of boysenberry jam, dark plums, allspice and cherry cream candy. Plums come back in the drink, joined by black currants and blueberry acidity. The good grip of tannin makes a good pairing with braised ribs, lamb chops or a hearty stew.

2007 StoneTree Vineyard Zinfandel

2008 Primitivo

Columbia Crest Excellent. Winemakers enjoy working with small

WINE REVIEWS

Airfield Estates

Columbia Crest 2008 StoneTree Vineyard Reserve Primitivo

2008 Malbec Yakima Valley, 219 cases, 14.8% alc., $28

Recommended. Charming barrel notes of white

chocolate are joined by aromas of boysenberry, raspberry, rose petal and cedar shaving. The palate carries red blackberry and chalky tannins with a bit of tartness and vanilla bourbon in the finish.

Columbia Crest

Wahluke Slope, 200 cases, 14.8% alc., $35

Outstanding! One would expect some zaniness as winemaker Ray Einberger collaborated with vineyard owner Tedd Wildman for this vintage debut of this project. And the product is seriously fun, starting with hints of blueberries and pomegranates covered in chocolate, backed by dark plum and licorice. The structure is one of a fist in a velvet glove as the plums and figs take over on the palate. Pencil lead as well as brown and black NECCO wafers finish it.

2008 Reserve Malbec Horse Heaven Hills, 200 cases, 14.5% alc., $35

Excellent. The giant in Prosser, Wash., adds this lesser-known Bordeaux variety to its reserve line for the first time. Char and tarry notes fill the nose before yielding to aromas of poached plums, toasted sesame, candied cherries and a chocolate-covered Graham cracker. There’s less oak and more fruit on the palate with plums and boysenberries. The approach is rather bold, with

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coffee, tar and black licorice in the finish.

Craisins made possible by Crawford Vineyard.

Fraser Vineyard

Pend d’Oreille Winery

2009 Malbec

2007 Freepons Vineyard Malbec

Snake River Valley, 125 cases, 14.4% alc., $25

Washington, 74 cases, 13.3% alc., $28

Outstanding! Our 2011 Idaho Winery of the Year

Outstanding! Stephen Meyer in Sandpoint, Idaho,

won a gold with this at the state competition, and it’s plain to see why. The nose features raspberry, cherries, chocolate and lime zest, but there are footnotes of pink peppercorns, cherry tomato and tobacco leaf. The theme of raspberry and cherry continues with the drink, emboldened with that cherry tomato acidity. Black pepper, not tannin, is the focus of the finish.

has long relied on Yakima Valley fruit for his red program. Here’s a telling example why. The nose features an assortment of fruit, spice and herbaceousness with plum, cracked black pepper, green bell pepper, dill, wintergreen and teriyaki.

There’s a match of palate that’s dynamic, luscious and youthful with red blackberry, more plum, dried cranberry, beef blood and oregano.

The combination of high acidity and supreme tannin management makes this an ideal match for grilled meats or smoked shoulder roast.

H/H Estates 2008 Canyon Vineyard Vineyards G.W. Smith Reserve Malbec Horse Heaven Hills, 53 cases, 14.8% alc., $32

Pend d’Oreille Winery

Excellent. While the influence of oak in the aro-

2007 Wood River Vineyard Malbec

mas might be distracting for some, there’s much to appreciate. Beyond the scents of cola syrup, shaved chocolate, dill and reddish blackberries, the palate is marvelous. Black currants, boysenberry and açaí berries get mashed together. There’s a long trail of vanilla extract, chocolate, minerality and lots of spiciness.

Snake River Valley, 73 cases, 13.4% alc., $28

Martin-Scott Winery 2008 Malbec Outstanding! One of the lesser-known Bordeaux

varieties is gaining traction in Washington, and this Wenatchee-area winery has a track record with it, earning our top rating for the second straight vintage. Dense aromas feature blueberry, black cherry, chocolate-covered Graham cracker, coconut, graphite and gunmetal. It’s an opulent drink of boysenberry and blackberry that’s backed by cinnamon bark and tannins akin to Belgian chocolate

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Malbec Yakima Valley, 358 cases, 13.7% alc., $20

Outstanding! One might need to hire a guide

service to track down a Malbec better than this for less money. Blueberry ice cream, boysenberry, a Triscuit cracker, crushed leaf and a sneeze of black pepper send the mind racing.

The structure to the palate is well hung with sweet tannins and a remarkable buildup of acidity, showcasing the rewarding flavors of huckleberry jam, black cherry crème soda and

accounts for half of the Malbec made at this North Idaho winery. It helped produce a drink of cassis, cranberry and plums, backed by minerality, allspice and acidity that override the tannin.

Thurston Wolfe 2008 Malbec Excellent. Much of the fruit for this Prosser, Wash., winery is grown in the Horse Heaven Hills, and McKinley Springs fruit shows well in this bottling.

Black cherry, rose petal and cedar aromas are backed by cinnamon and leather. Blueberry flavors take the lead, followed by pie cherry acidity and underlying minerality with chalky tannin.

Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Malbec Columbia Valley, 95 cases, 14.3% alc., $30

Outstanding! Sagemoor Vineyard serves a wide range of Washington wineries, and the bottling by winemaker Bill vonMetzger of this Bordeaux variety will bring more requests. It reveals complex aromas of dark cherry, orange zest, toasted almond, dark chocolate, vanilla, caramel and dried herbs. The drink pleases from stem to stern with blackberry, cassis, dark cranberry and Rainier cherries. There’s inkiness to the structure, and flecks of minerality add to the elegance as tannins are mollified.

Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley, 188 cases, 14.2% alc., $32

Excellent. This triumvirate of winemakers seems

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Other reds Airfield Estates 2009 Counoise Yakima Valley, 94 cases, 15.1% alc., $28

Excellent. A privilege of being in a wine club such

as Marcus Miller’s is that you get a chance to experiment with a Rhône variety that’s relatively new to the Northwest. The angle of high-toned red fruit is akin to a Pinot Noir, and there’s also a whiff of blueberry milk shake. Cranberries, that milkshake and freshly toasted bread spill out into the mouth, where there’s plenty of acidity and a bit of a cherry-skin tannin.

Recommended. This site near Eagle, Idaho, now

Washington, 25 cases, 14.3% alc., $28

Columbia Valley, 53 cases, 15.4% alc., $25

releases its third vintage of Malbec, this from the Columbia Basin, and it’s a bit on the hedonistic side. The nose sends out hints of black cherry, strawberry, root beer, tar and Cocoa Puffs. The palate comes soaked with sweet cherries, Raisinets and white pepper.

to take a lighter hand with its barrel program in terms of this variety because here’s a real effort to feature the fruit tones of black currant and pomegranate. It starts in the aromas that include plums, pink grapefruit, rose hips and green peppercorns. The real payoff is the gorgeous drink of more black currants and pomegranates with seamless tannins, lingering acidity and cocoa powder.

William Church Winery 2008 Philip’s Vintage Gamache Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley, 180 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

Recommended. This Woodinville, Wash., winery

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Coyote Canyon Winery 2008 Canyon Canyon Vineyard Mourvèdre Horse Heaven Hills, 28 cases, 14.3% alc., $22

Excellent. It looks as if the Andrews family, which sells off most of its 1,110-acre vineyard, keeps just a barrel or two of this Rhône red for itself. Its share offers hints of sweet plums, boysenberry, root beer, chocolate-covered pomegranates and soy sauce. The texture is a bit syrupy with some late acidity and an intriguing absence of tannin.

Desert Wind Winery 2008 Sacagawea Vineyard Barbera Wahluke Slope, 374 cases, 14% alc., $20

Outstanding! Huckleberry jelly, raspberry and black cherry aromas transcend into more of the same on the palate with nice acidity to balance.

The influence of oak is minimal and there’s a reddish tinge to the finish with strawberry and watermelon candy.

Dusted Valley Vintners 2008 Petite Sirah Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 15.9% alc., $42

Recommended. Many critics would view this as

over the top, but to PS fans, this is right in their wheelhouse. Buckle up for a wild ride, starting with a snootful of tutti frutti, a Dum Dum root beer sucker, black cherry, tobacco, chocolate, white pepper and lots of tar. Huge extraction makes this a big drink of black cherry, spearmint, tobacco and bubblegum. Don’t look at your teeth after a couple gulps of this.

Kyra Wines 2009 Purple Sage Vineyard Dolcetto Wahluke Slope, 118 cases, 14.2% alc., $20

Excellent. We’ve come to expect nothing short of

excellence from Kyra Baerlocher, who crafts her wines near the airport in Moses Lake, Wash. She and her husband own Purple Sage Vineyard, and this Italian variety obviously does well there. The package opens with black cherry cola aromas, backed by plums, Spanish almonds, flint, rose petal and eucalyptus. Its sweet entry stays true to the variety, a light-bodied quaffer of boysenberry, raspberry and blueberry with building acidity and a touch of tannin. If you know of someone new to red wine, here’s an icebreaker.

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recent releases Martin-Scott Winery 2008 Petite Sirah Columbia Valley, 71 cases, 15.2% alc., $23

Outstanding! Small, hedonistic lots are part of the portfolio for this family winery. They made this sweet and sassy, reminiscent of a fresh waffle cone and a Hostess cherry pie. Its tannin structure shows more restraint than most Petite Sirahs, and the finish brings a piece of Aussie black licorice, a pinch of pipe tobacco and dab of vanilla extract.

Melrose Vineyard 2009 Estate Dolcetto Umpqua Valley, 199 cases, 13.8% alc., $22

Excellent. Most folks wouldn’t consider planting a vineyard near a flood plain, which makes this one of the most fascinating parcels in the Northwest. There’s proof in the glass. Aromas of lingonberry, white strawberry, pie cherry and rose petal transcend into a casual drink of blueberry, Rainier cherry and Craisins with sandy tannins.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor’s Release Dolcetto Yakima Valley, 188 cases, 13.7% alc., $18

Excellent. Bottling wines as standalone varieties

is a hallmark at the winery not far from Bellingham, Wash. The choice to include Sangiovese (7%) and Cabernet Franc proved to be prescient, as the wine shows off accents of Rainier cherries, blueberries and dried cranberry. It brings sweet fruit and tartness in accord, and the tannins are firmly in place.

Saviah Cellars 2007 Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley, 190 cases, 14.7% alc., $30

Outstanding! Walla Walla winemaker Richard Funk indulges oak lovers once again with an opulent bottle that launches with aromas of black cherry, rum raisin ice cream and mincemeat pie. Black currant jam, dark black cherries and gobs of raspberries make for a silky drink that’s finished with leather, tar and Nutella.

Red blends Airfield Estates 2008 Aviator Yakima Valley, 467 cases, 15.1% alc., $30

Outstanding! Marcus Miller tried his hand at blend-

ing during his days at Tsillan Cellars in Chelan.

Now he’s working with family fruit, and the young winemaker ranks among the best in the Northwest at blending. By gathering up the five primary Bordeaux varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Malbec — he’s made for a nose of rich black cherry, cassis, fresh-cut herbs, a chocolate milk shake and a slice of pepperoni. The drink carries some slender elegance with dark strawberry and a blending cherries, chocolate and tannin. A late burst of mouthwatering acidity merely revives the palate.

some bittersweet chocolate and pie cherries.

It’s a persistent palate but not too demanding, yielding to a finish of loganberry jasmine tea.

Airfield Estates 2009 Mustang Yakima Valley, 548 cases, 15.2% alc., $25

Outstanding! The Millers in Prosser, Wash., form quite a team with father growing the grapes and son making the wine. This blend of five Rhône varieties, led by Syrah (61%), whistles through aromas of boysenberry, raspberry, milk chocolate, mincemeat and pink peppercorns. It’s lighter in style and rather seamless on the palate as brambleberries and blueberry stream from beginning to end. There’s great balance, leading with acidity and barely a pinch of tannin.

Airfield Estates 2009 Spitfire Yakima Valley, 548 cases, 15.1% alc., $25

Recommended. Sangiovese (61%) leads this

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Artist Series Meritage Columbia Valley, 2,200 cases, 14.5% alc., $50

Excellent. How time flies. This marks the 15th

anniversary of this blending of Bordeaux varieties, and the artwork came from the late T.L. Lange. A showy barrel program of 88% new oak makes for aromas of strawberry, sassafras, a box of Red Hots and a Brown & Haley Mountain Bar. Ripe strawberry, cola and citrus flavors take hold on the sloped shoulders of tannin. The hint of milk foam with cinnamon makes for a long and showy finish.

Columbia Crest Winery

Bergevin Lane Vineyards

day — Sept. 25 — for this Old World-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (32%) and Cabernet Franc. The structure shows more oak and tannin influence than we’ve come to expect from this line, which carries with it tones of a baked cherry pie, huckleberry jam, plums and vanilla cola.

2007 Intuition Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 14.4% alc., $59

Recommended. Cassis, cranberry, pie cherry and

saddle leather tones toggle between strong oak and tannin influences inside this Cabernet Sauvignon-led Meritage style. There’s a nice trailing finish of raspberry, and the structure is ideal for a well-marbled steak.

2007 Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, 14.4% alc., $30

Recommended. All the fruit came off on the same

Black Hills Estate Winery 2008 Nota Bene Okanagan Valley, 14.2% alc., $60 CDN

Excellent. Annually, this is one of Canada’s most

coveted wines. And this vintage from 12-yearold vines appeals particularly to Cab Francophiles as it sets the vibe for the Cabernet Sauvignon (48%) and Merlot (41%).

Pie cherry, vanilla, blackberry, cedar and earthy aromas don’t overwhelm the leafy notes from the Franc. The same fruits turn jammy on the palate and herbaceousness gathers in a remarkable slatiness. Brilliant acidity and green olive lend it to many food pairings.

Caprice Vineyards 2007 Claret Rogue Valley, 140 cases, 13.5% alc., $28

Recommended. Estate and Jacksonville Vineyard

fruit gives this blend of Bordeaux varieties aromas of cassis, dusty rose petal, black licorice and dark chocolate. It’s big and dark on the palate with more cassis, accompanied by pie cherry and cranberry and finished by hints of lime peel and a chocolate wafer.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2008 Rock Star Red

2009 Bombshell Red Vineyard Salute

Columbia Valley, 192 cases, 14.8% alc., $48

Yakima Valley, 2,443 cases, 15.1% alc., $16

Outstanding! A past Oregon Winery of the Year,

Excellent. This rolls right out of the hangar with a

this Columbia Gorge producer creates an encore performance with this expressive blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and Syrah (50%) from its reserve program. Nothing is in short sup-

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ply. Blackberry, black pepper, black walnut and chalkboard dust fill the nostrils. Bold flavors follow with black currant, blackberry and pomegranate. It rides like a Cadillac with glossy acidity and sturdy tannins. There’s a late burst of Jelly Belly Very Cherry jellybean, licorice, beef jerky, vanilla bean and graham cracker on the way out.

blend, backed primarily by Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), and there’s a presentation of blackberry, boysenberry, huckleberry and baked plums.

The package is spun tightly with assertive tannins and a presence of oak.

Airfield Estates

chassis of Merlot (45%), Syrah (41%), Malbec (8%), Sangiovese (4%) and Petit Verdot. It’s loaded with boysenberry and blackberry with

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Coyote Canyon Winery

Eaglemount Winery

2008 Canyon Canyon Vineyard Tres Cruces

2007 Reserve Raptor

Horse Heaven Hills, 205 cases, 14.3% alc., $18

Washington, 150 cases, 14.2% alc., $32

Outstanding! This isn’t the first time Mike

Recommended. Here’s a rewarding presentation of sugared cranberry, raspberry and pie cherry, with citrusy acidity. Additional support comes from notes of slate, saddle leather, mint and toffee.

Andrews has earned our top rating with this blend of Rhône reds. Here, his work with Syrah (61%), Grenache (30%) and Mourvèdre offers sweet smells of dusty blackberry, blueberry, dried strawberry and milk chocolate. The ripeness of the fruit shows on the palate, too, with boysenberry, red blackberry and more strawberry. It’s a juicy and meaty drink.

Daven Lore Winery 2008 Aridsol Red Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Outstanding! Gordon Taylor’s wife is soil scientist Joan “Dr. Dirt” Davenport, and this is a tasty tribute to the five arid soil types they both work with. It’s a blend of Bordeaux varieties off Alder Ridge, Newhouse and Lonesome Spring Ranch, and Taylor’s oak treatment features aromas of crushed walnut, chocolate-covered cherries, marionberry, black olive, vanilla bean and minerality. The entry to the palate is easy, gathering up raspberry and boysenberry flavors. Hints of boot leather and firm tannins call for a thick porterhouse steak.

Domaine Pouillon 2009 Katydid Horse Heaven Hills, 277 cases, 14.3% alc., $23

Outstanding! Alexis and Juliet Pouillon moved to the Columbia Gorge town of Lyle, Wash., to launch a winery. The young couple seem to be hitting their stride. Their skill with Rhône varieties is keen with this blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%) and Mourvèdre, mostly from McKinley Springs. Juicy red fruit aromas are backed by lightly toasted oak, and its lovely approach to the palate isn’t unlike a Dundee Hills Pinot Noir. There you’ll find pomegranate, pie cherry and cranberry flavors as the acid level stays ahead of the subdued tannin. It remains smooth through the finish of milk chocolate and boysenberry.

Dunham Cellars

Emerson Vineyards NV Brother Red

Hightower Cellars

Willamette Valley, 410 cases, 14.3% alc., $16

2007 Red Wine

Excellent. Understand the components and you’ll

Red Mountain, 247 cases, 14.2% alc., $50

better appreciate this eclectic effort. Tom Johns took hybrid grapes Maréchal Foch (41%), Leon Millot (28%), Baco Noir (4%) and Oberlin Noir (3%) and blended in Pinot Noir (24%). Aromas focus on a Snickers bar, roasted coffee and bell pepper. The drink brings red cherries and red currants inside a structure that’s dense, balanced and smooth with some cherry skin tannin.

Excellent. The Out of Line estate and nearby

Eaglemount Winery 2008 Osprey Reserve Washington, 85 cases, 13.8% alc., $27

Outstanding! Jim Davis crafts cider in Port Townsend, but he also shows off his winemaking skills here. Merlot (83%) leads the way for aromas of strawberry, plum, pomegranate, blueberry, cedar and smoked jerky. The drink is clean and smooth with nice acidity from flavors of Bing cherry, boysenberry and raspberry.

Foxy Roxy Wines 2007 Vixen Red Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Excellent. StoneRidge Vineyard in the Frenchman Hills is the source for this estate blend of Cab, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. A 27-month barrel program with Hungarian oak leaves an imprint of cinnamon, dill and black olive, but there’s still room for plums and black cherry aromas. And oak lovers will see the drink as seductive with juicy black cherry and crushed walnut. A rush of pomegranate brings acidity and tartness.

Gård Vintners 2008 Lawrence Vineyard Don Isidro Red Columbia Valley, 285 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

2008 Three Legged Red

Recommended. Winemaker Robert Smasne’s

Columbia Valley, 5,076 cases, 13.8% alc., $19

blend of Syrah (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon develops tones of dark black cherry, purple blackberry, licorice, tar and gun metal — often a sign of Syrah. Robust tannins do allow for a finish that is dark and warm with black currant jam.

Excellent. One of the most touching stories in the

Northwest wine industry is Eric Dunham’s rescue of a dog from a pit bull attack. He adopted Port, who lived a long life before passing in 2008, but this blend lives on. It’s a fetching drink made in a lighter style, providing tones of blackberry, cherry pie and coffee. Chocolate-covered pomegranate makes for a lengthy farewell.

Dunham Cellars 2007 Trutina Columbia Valley, 5,588 cases, 13.9% alc., $26

Excellent. A trio of estate vineyards — Double River, Frenchtown and Lewis — came together for a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) Syrah (23%), Merlot (17%) and Cabernet Franc. The result is a food-friendly and stylish drink loaded with cassis, cola nut, raspberry and Craisins. A pinch of tannin merely adds complexity, giving way to a finish of Whopper and milk froth.

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aged them from labeling it as Merlot, but this Red Mountain winery has a knack with the grape, evident again here with this 100% production. A youthful and lively nose contains hints of lilac and black pepper with pie cherry, blueberry and cedar. There’s a show of restraint on the palate with more high-toned red fruit, drip coffee, shiny acidity and fine-grained tannins. It would be wellserved with flank steak cooked medium-rare.

Hightower Cellars 2008 Out of Line Red Wine Red Mountain, 308 cases, 14.3% alc., $25

Excellent. The Hightowers are quick to note they

named this estate blend of Bordeaux varieties in reference to the way the vines were planted.

Many will appreciate the lofty use of oak, which helps create a mood of rich black cherry, deep pomegranate, crushed walnut and charcoal.

Look for a bit of chalkiness and pinch of black pepper at the end of the row.

Hightower Cellars 2008 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Walla Walla Valley, 199 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Excellent. Perhaps the movie Sideways discour-

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Shaw vineyards combined for a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (63%), Cabernet Franc (16%), Merlot (11%), Petit Verdot and Malbec.

Time spent in small oak barrel for 20 months imparts aromas of toffee, brown toasted and Tootsie Pop, backed by blueberry, lime and chalkboard dust. The payoff comes between the lips with juicy plums and black cherries, packaged with nice acidity and lively tannin, finished with chocolate-covered almonds.

Jacksonville Vineyards 2007 Fiasco Claret Applegate Valley, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $23

Recommended. A rich blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon (50%) and Merlot (35%) gets a nice boost from Malbec, providing aromas of dark plums, black tar, black olives and huge Bing cherries. Those cherries burst through onto the sweet and rich palate, backed by notes of mincemeat, blackberries, nice acidity and bittersweet chocolate.

Lake Chelan Winery 2006 Maximum III 10th Anniversary Red Columbia Valley, 202 cases, 13.8% alc., $45

Excellent. Longtime Washington winemaker Ray

Sandidge deserves credit for this blend of Merlot (58%) from StoneTree on the Wahluke Slope, Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Syrah (11%) from the estate Rivers Bend, and Cabernet Franc from nearby Dulia Vineyard.

Spicy oak helps creates a mood of cedar, tar, plums and pomegranate. It’s a plummy and jammy drink with marionberry, cherry chocolate cake and licorice. Tannins offer fascination rather than distraction.

Liberty Lake Wine Cellars 2007 Gary’s Legacy Red Red Mountain, 96 cases, 14.2% alc., $19

Recommended. Dedicated to the late Gary Reed,

who helped build this Spokane Valley winery, it’s packaged with black cherry, chocolate, mint and woodruff. Those sweet herbs are a sign of the Cabernet Franc (50%), which leads the blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The sizeable tannin structure and lime peel acidity should allow this to be enjoyed for several years.

Martinez & Martinez 2007 Cesár Red Wine Columbia Valley, 215 cases, 14.5% alc., $22

Excellent. Sergio Martinez has grown grapes in

the Horse Heaven Hills since 1981. This marked the third vintage his son, Andrew, made wine for the family winery in Prosser. There’s a lot stuffed into this blend of Cabernet W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Sauvignon (66%), Malbec (15%), Merlot (10%) and Syrah. Plums, blueberry, black cherry, black olive and black pepper aromas funnel into a drink that opens with lively cherries and red currants. It gets dark toward the finish with more blueberry, black currant jam, horehound and well-managed tannins.

Nk’Mip Cellars 2007 Qwam Qwmt Meritage Okanagan Valley, 2,694 cases, 13.9% alc., $30 CDN

Recommended. This is mostly Merlot (75%), but

the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Cabernet Franc (10%) satisfies one requirement of the Meritage Society. And it’s styled like an Old World Bordeaux with its cassis, pie cherry and saddle leather notes. There’s a rub of thyme, bold acidity and bittersweet chocolate tannins.

O•S Winery 2006 BSH Columbia Valley, 382 cases, 14.6% alc., $30

Excellent. Many will agree this wine helped put

Owen and Sullivan Winery on the map. This version brings black cherry cola, stewed plums, mint chocolate, vanilla, lime and cedar aromas.

The entry of black cherry is followed by a firm punch from thick tannins — the hallmark that fans have come to know and like in this wine.

There are also notes of blackberry, cracked black pepper, Jamoca Almond Fudge ice cream and a 3 Musketeers bar.

O•S Winery 2006 Klipsun Vineyard M Red Mountain, 292 cases, 14.7% alc., $25

Excellent. M stands for Merlot (70%), and the

rest is Cabernet Sauvignon. They come together here for aromas of black cherry, strawberry taffy and devil’s food cake. The pour brings in more black cherry, a slice of strawberry/rhubarb pie and a drizzle of molasses. Here’s a rare instance where acidity is more apparent than tannin in a wine grown on Red Mountain, which allows for pairings with salmon or pork.

O•S Winery 2007 Red Columbia Valley, 2,400 cases, 14.7% alc., $18

Excellent. It’s a nicely proportioned blend of

Bordeaux varieties, leading with Merlot and showing lots of savory Cabernet Franc notes.

Dried black cherry, lavender, cedar, Ovaltine and cilantro aromas transition into a zingy approach to the palate. Fresh-picked raspberry, plum and white strawberry flavors include a touch of green pepper. This makes for excellent dinner company.

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2006 L’OEuvre Washington, 174 cases, 14.4% alc., $28

Outstanding! Idaho vintner Stephen Meyer takes

particular pride in his high-end blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Merlot (29%), Malbec (7%) and Cabernet Franc, and this work of art may be his best. Pleasant use of French barrels makes for hints of clove, anise and mahogany alongside aromas of black fruit and banana. It drinks like Bordeaux with cassis, rich blueberry, bittersweet chocolate, firm tannins and late acidity.

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Revelry Vintners 2008 Reserve Blend Columbia Valley, 220 cases, 13.9% alc., $35

Excellent. Jared Burns launched his uniquely

shaped cask line in Western Washington, but he’s now landed in Walla Walla and producing some high-end bottled wine. This blend of Merlot (44%), Cabernet Sauvignon (22%), Syrah (22%) and Cabernet Franc presents a sleek drink of blueberry and black cherry.

There’s a wafting of smoke, along with a pinch of dill weed and some malted milk.

Revelry Vintners 2008 The Reveler Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Excellent. Most folks are looking to add some spice

to their lives, and this blend goes in reverse of most by leading with Petit Verdot (52%) and backed by Merlot (38%) and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Smoky plums, cherry and dark chocolate aromas include pizza sauce herbs. The delivery brings ripe — not sweet — fruit of boysenberry and cherry. Blueberry hustles in with racy acidity, then yields to chocolaty, yet smooth tannins.

San Juan Vineyards 2008 Red Wine Columbia Valley, 290 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Excellent. Chris Primus not only runs the vine-

yards at this island winery, but he also makes the wine from fruit all across Eastern Washington. The Horse Heaven Hills provided Cabernet Franc (44%) from Destiny Ridge and Cabernet Franc (31%) off Alder Ridge. Kestrel grew the Merlot (19%), and Mike Sauer’s new vineyard near Red Willow provided the Sangiovese. There’s a synergy to the structure with boysenberry and marionberry, backed by underlying cassis and tobacco. Lively acidity creates a bridge with the chewy tannins, which are finished by barrel notes of crème brulée.

WINE REVIEWS

Merlot (15%) and Syrah honors another family scientist, his brother-in-law. There’s boldness throughout with aromas of blackberry, mincemeat, Nutella and scrapes of slate. Blackberry jam and sweet marionberry swirl in the mouth, joined by a bite of the seed that supplies good sturdiness of tannin.

Thurston Wolfe 2008 The Spaniard Washington, 25 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Excellent. Here comes another blend, this a trib-

ute to Spain because it uses Grenache, Tempranillo and Syrah. Some may think it’s a Willamette Valley Pinot incognito because the Grenache comes across with high-toned red fruit of cassis, pie cherry and cranberry. Accents also include plums, boysenberry, sweet herbs and warm barrel tones. Tempranillo’s grip of tannin slips just a bit beyond the acidity.

Trium 2006 Grower’s Cuvée Rogue Valley, 600 cases, 13.7% alc., $22

Excellent. The kitchen staff will gravitate to this

blend of Bordeaux varieties as it stays true to Cabernet Franc, allowing its savory tones of oregano and celery leaf to mingle with the plum and molasses. Dried strawberry, cassis and wet leather also come into play on the very approachable palate.

Tsillan Cellars 2007 Bellissima Rossa Columbia Valley, 947 cases, 14.71% alc., $28

Recommended. Nearly qualifying to be labeled as

Cabernet Sauvignon (74%), the blending of Merlot (21%) and Cabernet Franc presents a lively package of red blackberry, boysenberry and pie cherries with chocolate. The broadcast of acidity and assertive tannins will play well with Tuscan short ribs in Sorrento’s.

Saviah Cellars

Tsillan Cellars

2007 Big Sky Cuvée

2007 Piccolo Rosso

Columbia Valley, 632 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Columbia Valley, 641 cases, 15% alc., $28

Excellent. The Walla Walla winery makes its

Outstanding! Shane Collins grew up in Lake

annual homage to its Montana roots via this mélange of Merlot (69%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), Cabernet Franc (3%), Malbec (3%) and Petit Verdot. It gathers up reddish tones of dusty cherry, pomegranate, plum, raspberry compote, dried rose, leather and a Douglas fir frond with a jammy approach backed by medium tannins.

Chelan, and judging by his continued success, it doesn’t look like he’s going anywhere. This blend of Merlot (63%), Cabernet Franc (23%), Nebbiolo (7%), Barbera (5%) and Sangiovese shows a nose of Chukar Cherry, blueberry and peanut butter. It’s a handsome drink with cordial cherry, vanilla and juicy blueberry as acidity and supportive tannins parallel each other across the palate.

The finish mirrors that of warm fruit compote.

SuLei Cellars 2008 Beet Red Walla Walla Valley, 100 cases, 13.2% alc., $19

Vale Wine Co.

Recommended. Beet Road in Walla Walla is home

2008 Rendezvous Red

to this young winery — pronounced soo-LAY. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Malbec (30%) and Cabernet Franc avoids confrontation and comes layered with tones of black cherry pie, blueberry, root beer, Aussie black licorice and a doppio.

Thurston Wolfe 2007 The Geologist

Snake River Valley, 168 cases, 14.1% alc., $19

Recommended. Skyline Vineyard, which has

played a major role in Idaho’s Sawtooth Winery, made for this mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Plums, cherry cough syrup, chocolate and vanilla notes pick up some cracked white pepper and minerality. Together, they make for a fairly luscious and savory drink.

Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 14.5% alc., $50

Velocity Wine Cellars

Excellent. Wade Wolfe crafts and names his

2007 Velocity Red

wines carefully, and this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%), Cabernet Franc (17%),

Excellent. Gus Janeway took RoxyAnn Winery in

Rogue Valley, 13.5% alc., $24

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Medford, Ore., to new heights. Now, he’s focused on his own label, named with regards to his love of cycling, and makes his wines at Pallet Wine Co. In years past, he’s blended Malbec from Gold Vineyard in nearby Talent, Ore. This vintage, he’s all in the Malbec, which makes for a nose of blackberry, black cherry taffy, boysenberry, vanilla bean and tobacco leaf. He made it an easy drinker that tickles the tongue with pie cherry, cranberry, coarse blackberry and mint. Serve with a blackened steak.

William Church Winery 2007 Amy’s Vintage Sur La Mer Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Recommended. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon

(40%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (20%), Malbec (10%) and Petit Verdot is named after the French birthplace of winery co-owner Leslie Balsley. A warm Milk Dud joins blackberry, cherry and oregano aromas. The drink is a quaffer of the same fruit, all spice and chalkboard dust.

Enjoy with braised buffalo chuck roast.

William Church Winery 2008 Max’s Vintage Bishop’s Blend Columbia Valley, 750 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Excellent. Unofficially, this is viewed as the “cellar

blend” at the Woodinville, Wash., winery. The components are Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Malbec (38%), Syrah (11%), Merlot (9%) and Cabernet Franc, and together they make up a wine that’s light and easy to get into. Aromas include hints of raspberry juice, Hershey’s Syrup, cinnamon and slate. It’s a full-flavored drink of blackberry jam, gobs of chocolate, pomegranate acidity and some lime in the finish. The tannin level is almost imperceptible.

Chardonnay Airfield Estates 2009 Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 97 cases, 14.1% alc., $20

Excellent. Cantaloupe, lemon custard yogurt and

watermelon accents gain prominence with lemony acidity, and there’s a farewell of freshcut potatoes.

Black Hills Estate Winery 2008 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 600 cases, 14.1% alc., $30 CDN

Recommended. More than half of this lot underwent barrel fermentation, but you wouldn’t guess it. It’s fruit-forward smooth and drinkable, showing Gala apple and Bosc pear tones, canned pineapple in the midpalate and lingering lemon/lime acidity. A pinch of saltiness in the finish calls for a pairing with Manchego cheese and quince paste.

beyond, and its proprietary name comes from the French term for stainless steel — inoxydable. The nose features Fuji apple, Key lime pie, starfruit and a Lady of the Night flower blossom.

Its crisp palate gathers in pear, lemon peel and the return of lime with a hint of caramel in the finish. Enjoy this with flaky halibut.

Inkameep vineyard didn’t prevent Randy Picton and his team of tribal members from crafting a remarkably complex drink focused on sweet pear and Golden Delicious apple. Toasty oak, buttery and creamy banana accents on the midpalate get brushed aside by pleasing citrus.

Enjoy with some Dungeness crab.

Claar Cellars

Phelps Creek Vineyards

2009 White Bluffs Barrel Fermented Chardonnay

2009 Estate Reserve Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 117 cases, 13.6% alc., $16

Excellent. Hood River, Ore., native Rich Cushman is back home, and his excitement shows up in this delicious Chardonnay.

There’s a greeting of segmented tangerine, Kiwi fruit, fresh cucumber, dried lemon peel and toasted pine nuts. Inside is a wide range of accessible fruit flavors, starting with more tangerine but followed by apricot and yellow grapefruit. The structure is a complex creation of barrel toast, fruit and acidity, capped by some citrus pith.

Excellent. Here’s an oak-lovers bargain as it

brings lots of wood and lots of flavors. The nose gathers up vanilla bean, sandalwood, burnt sugar and lemon pepper. The fluid produces flavors of French vanilla ice cream, butterscotch, Scottish shortbread cookie and Bananas Foster. A trickle of lemon juice emerges in the finish of this fun and fascinating wine.

Columbia Crest 2008 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars

Recommended. Sites in the Horse Heaven Hills

2009 Chardonnay

made for a drink that leads with aromas of smoke, vanilla, butterscotch, Pear Crumble and flecks of minerality. There’s a nice balance of dried apricot, whitish pineapple and toasty barrel notes, finished with lemon pith.

Johan Vineyards

2009 Chardonnay

Recommended. Estate fruit from Dijon clones 76

Eola-Amity Hills, 150 cases, 13.8% alc., $25

and 95 goes on the lees for 18 months, which makes for an unctuous offering of pineapple, apricot jam, butterscotch and lemon peel.

Recommended. Dijon clone 96 nearly evenly split

LeVieux Pin 2009 Equinoxe Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 72 cases, 13.9% alc., $60 CDN

Excellent. While not THE most expensive

St. Laurent Winery 2008 Chardonnay

Mission Hill Family Estate

Saviah Cellars

2009 Reserve Chardonnay

2008 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay

Okanagan Valley, 13% alc., $19 CDN

Columbia Valley, 224 cases, 14.1% alc., $25

Outstanding! Atypical of “reserve” style

Recommended. This site overlooking Royal City, Wash., brought in Dijon clone 75 grapes that act more like orchard fruit. There’s nice roundness to the presentation of peach and a caramel apple, backed by starfruit and lemon pith for complexity.

Try pairing this with a cheddar frittata.

2009 INOX Chardonnay

2008 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay

Willamette Valley, 4,967 cases, 13.8% alc., $17

Okanagan Valley, 1,854 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. Harry Peterson-Nedry helped make this

Excellent. A wacky summer that included a wind-

style of Chardonnay famous in Oregon and

storm that snapped more than 300 posts in the

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between French oak and stainless steel provides the feel of a Chablis or a Muscadet. It’s cleansing and refreshingly dry with tones of Golden Delicious apple, pineapple, lemon zest and underlying minerality. Enjoy with oysters.

Chardonnay made in British Columbia — the crop load was 2.4 tons per acre — it ranks as one of the tastiest. Volumes of interest start with the evidence of new French oak barrels that exude hints of pineapple upside down cake and tutti frutti. The palate shows emollience along with pineapple, pear and bubble gum flavors. A good shot of acidity revives the tongue.

Nk’Mip Cellars

Recommended. Banana, pineapple, butterscotch

whiffs of pear, lemon, pineapple and starfruit to filter out above the banana and dustiness.

Yellow grapefruit and slate make this amazingly refreshing for a Chardonnay made in barrel.

Redman

Chehalem Wines

Columbia Valley, 350 cases, 13.6% alc., $22

Excellent. The use of neutral French oak allows

Willamette Valley, 77 cases, 13% alc., $33

and orange tones are wrapped in a somewhat viscous drink that rallies with pleasing acidity.

2009 Chardonnay

Umpqua Valley, 410 cases, 13.2% alc., $18

2008 Reserve Chardonnay

Chardonnay, winemaker John Simes’ restrained use of French and American oak makes this remarkably fruit-forward and food-friendly.

Unwrap a stick of Juicy Fruit gum and you begin to get a feel for the aromatics, which include Granny Smith apple, lime and slate.

Tropical fruit continues into the mouth with mango and passion fruit. Mandarin orange provides acidity. Hints of citrus pith and jicama add complexity. Enjoy with white fish or a fish taco.

Cathedral Ridge Winery

Columbia Gorge, 290 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

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Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 13% alc., $20

Recommended. Quincy Estate Vineyards in the

proposed Ancient Lakes appellation makes for a brisk and slate-filled drink. There is no evidence of oak, and its fruit core is based on notes of Granny Smith apple, lemon, lime, quinine and minerality. Enjoy this with quiche.

Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 260 cases, 14.1% alc., $28

Excellent. As a recent graduate of the “University

of Columbia Crest,” Amy Alvarez-Wampfler knows what to do with a few barrels of Chardonnay. In this case, she worked with 11 from Lewis Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The nose comes alive immediately with whiffs of yellow Starburst candy, pineapple and apricot, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Grey Monk Estate Winery

Willamette Valley Vineyards

along Okanagan Lake in the 1970s, and they remain among the leaders in the province. And here’s a serious example of Riesling, leading with aromas of minerality, Golden Delicious apple, peach and clean flannel. Lemony acidity, more minerality and even some tannin tighten up the juicy peach and pineapple tones, as well as the residual sugar (1.6%).

2008 Estate Chardonnay Willamette valley, 204 cases, 13.5% alc., $30

Recommended. Jim Bernau planted these vines in

1983 and began grafting them to Dijon a decade later. There’s a pleasing balance of oak and tropical fruit flavors, delicate acidity and savory notes in the finish. Enjoy with tiger shrimp, lobster, crab or even Baked Alaska.

Riesling Anam Cara Cellars 2009 Nicholas Estate Riesling Chehalem Mountains, 390 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Outstanding! Fermenting 71% of their 1-acre

block in neutral oak barrels makes this more complex than most Rieslings made in the Northwest. There are the usual aromatics of apple, pineapple and pear with orange oil, but there’s also honey and intriguing mineral. All the fruit returns on the first draw of the drink, yet it turns dry (just 1.2% residual sugar), and refreshing as lemony acidity and late flintiness assume subtle control. Among its delicious food pairing possibilities is basa fish.

Brooks Wines 2008 Riesling Willamette Valley, 780 cases, 12.8% alc., $18

Recommended. Orange blossom, starfruit, baked

apple, petrol Asian pear and lemon accents make this a refreshing and linear drink.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2009 Riesling Columbia Valley, 275 cases, 12.2% alc., $18

Recommended. Here’s a definitely off-dry but still

fascinating offering with accents that include tropical fruit, apricot, baked apple, honeysuckle, green tea, nutmeg and banana nut bread.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2009 Riesling Okanagan Valley, 2,000 cases, 12.9% alc., $17 CDN

Excellent. The Heiss family began planting vines

Long Shadows Vintners 2009 Poet’s Leap Riesling Columbia Valley, 3,200 cases, 12.9% alc., $20

Recommended. Armin Diel’s approach with this

vintage takes on a rather delicate style, beginning with aromas of dried orange rind, pear and apple with light diesel, lavender, lilac and baseball card bubblegum powder. There’s appealing flintiness, honeysuckle and Jonagold apple flavors, and the acidity matches the low residual sugar (1.3%).

Mellisoni Vineyards 2009 Riesling Lake Chelan, 86 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Recommended. Young vines overlooking the south

shore of Lake Chelan created an off-dry Riesling with notes of baked pear, diesel, lemon/lime, candy corn and a finish akin to an Arnold Palmer ice tea.

Nk’Mip Cellars 2009 Riesling Okanagan Valley, 1,833 cases, 12% alc., $18 CDN

Excellent. Randy Picton probably wanted these

grapes to hang a bit longer, but an Oct. 9 frost quashed any plans. Still, we’re left with an exotic wine that includes tropical aromas, along with peach, spiced orange, nectarine and vanilla bean. The palate zeroes in on peach, apple, orange, lime and citrus pith. It’s a high-acid drink with flecks of minerality. Enjoy with calamari or white fish influenced by peach salsa.

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars 2009 Riesling Umpqua Valley, 150 cases, 12.1% alc., $18

Columbia Valley, 24,000 cases, 12% alc., $20

Recommended. This young project south of

Outstanding! The project named after Beethoven’s “Third Symphony” strikes a brilliant chord in commemoration of its 11th vintage.

Ernst Loosen and Bob Bertheau continue to focus on the Milbrandts’ Evergreen Vineyard near the Gorge at George, and its easy-drinking character carries along lots of apples and pears with sweet citrus. There’s not as much minerality as in some vintages, but the residual sugar continues to hover around 1.6%. Its finish is lengthy with peaches and apricots.

Roseburg, Ore., won’t have any trouble selling this to the wedding receptions it hosts. Peaches and apples gush out of the aromas, backed by jasmine and lemon. The drink is of an ambrosia salad, joined by lychee and rosewater. Its residual sugar (1.5%) comes across as sugar cane before the finish of apple skin.

2008 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley, 672 cases, 12.9% alc., $22

Recommended. The Dunhams long have relied on

this Yakima Valley site for many of its wines, including their off-dry Riesling, which settled at 2.5% sugar. It’s a tasty serving of Granny Smith apple, apricot, jasmine and Frosted MiniWheats with a lemon/lime finish.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

apple, diesel, lychee, honeysuckle and sweet lemon give this good acidity and pleasing length. It drinks more along the lines of off-dry, despite its relatively low residual sugar of 1.3%.

Pinot Gris Gray Monk Estate Winery 2009 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 8,200 cases, 13.6 alc., $17 CDN

Excellent. Unless you are an insider, one might

not imaging that a B.C. winery could bottle this much Pinot Gris. And the Heiss family does it exceptionally well. It glitters with aromas of starfruit, Bartlett pear, honeydew melon, lemon and daffodil stocks. Pear leads the flavors, backed by lemon, grassiness and some slate.

Sokol Blosser 2009 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 1,350 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Excellent. The fun drink opens with aromas of tangerine, honeydew melon, dried pineapple, white rose petal and a spent drier sheet.

Brightness on the palate shows up immediately with assertive acidity, followed by a flow of more melon, Asian pear, allspice and apple slices.

Soléna Estate 2009 Pinot Gris Oregon, 1,500 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Excellent. Laurent Montalieu and his wife contin-

ue to raise the profile of their elegant label with wines such as this. Its graceful nose carries aromas of yellow grapefruit, pineapple, orange zest, nectarine, cling peach, cotton candy, slate and white pepper. Peach and lemon chiffon strike an accord on the palate with a bit of jasmine. A squeeze of tangerine makes this a lipsmacker on the finish.

Trium 2009 Pheasant Hill Vineyard Pinot Gris Rogue Valley, 200 cases, 13.6% alc., $19

Recommended. Dusty apple, peach fuzz, clover

honey, slate and savory herb aromas turn into an easy drink of oranges, sweetened lemon, yellow grapefruit and butterscotch.

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

2009 Eroica Riesling

Dunham Cellars

WINE REVIEWS

Kandarian Wine Cellars 2009 Oster Vineyard Blue Eye Sauvignon Blanc Willamette Valley, 75 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Outstanding! Jeff Kandarian oversees one of

Riesling with its theme of mineral, petrol, lemon juice, lime peel and chalkboard dust. One gets a bit of a sense of the Golden Mile though because there’s some peach in the mix, too.

Oregon’s largest wineries as the winemaker for King Estate, but he’s allowed this side project in nearby Veneta, Ore. His source is a 1-acre block near Mount Angel, but you’d think he made this in New Zealand. It casts out huge gooseberry aromas, backed by lime peel, passion fruit, a frond of noble fir and ryegrass. There’s more of a restrained approach on the palate, balancing tropical fruit flavors, fresh herbs and a finish of minerality. There’s none of the bitterness found with many Sauv Blancs.

Tsillan Cellars

Mission Hill Family Estate

2008 Dry Riesling

2009 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

Columbia Valley, 312 cases, 13.1% alc., $18

Okanagan Valley, 13.5% alc., $19 CDN

Recommended. Tree-ripened nectarine, baked

Recommended. A small part of this spent time in

Road 13 2009 Jackpot Riesling Okanagan Valley, 181 cases, 13.3% alc., $30 CDN

Recommended. This fits in with the Alsatian style of

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French oak and on the lees, which explains aromas of butterscotch behind the peaches and apricots. Citrusy acidity arrives quickly on the palate, followed by Pink Lady and honeydew flavors.

Viognier Bergevin Lane Vineyards

palate, joined by fresh-picked Bartlett pear, sliced ginger, Mandarin orange and anise in the finish. Despite the lofty alcohol and dry approach, skillful winemaking provides balance.

Erath Winery 2009 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley, 2,700 cases, 12.5% alc., $14

2009 Viognier

Excellent. Gary Horner brought in this fruit from

Columbia Valley, 396 cases, 14.2% alc., $25

with Rhône varieties, regardless of color. Here, he blended Roussanne (6%) and the nose is clean and pure with tangerine, starfruit, sliced banana and lemon pepper. A spoonful of orange vanilla sherbet says a lot about the palate, where there’s lively acidity and citrus pith for balance.

Fuqua, Niederberger and Scharf vineyards on Oct. 11-12, and it was the right call. The nose features lemon curd, lime peel and Asian pear, and there’s no disappointment on the attack.

Honeydew melon flesh gives it body, while pleasing citrus and a thread of minerality wake up the palate. Suggested fare includes grilled seafood, smoked salmon and antipasto.

Quady North

Gray Monk Cellars

2008 Steelhead Run Vineyard Viognier

2009 Gewürztraminer

Applegate Valley, 120 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

Okanagan Valley, 6,500 cases, 12.8% alc., $16 CDN

Recommended. Fun aromas of ginger cream

Excellent. George Heiss Jr. and Roger Wong

cookie, melon, lemon, grassiness and coriander descend into a rounded palate of Gala apple, Knudsen Hibiscus Cooler and orange peel.

team up for one of the Northwest’s largest productions of this variety. The nose conjures up thoughts of sugared yellow grapefruit, topped with a maraschino cherry, joined by lychee and hints of minerality. At 2.4% residual sugar, it’s a tasty and cocktailish drink brimming with passion fruit, mango and Honeycrisp apple, chased with a squirt of lime.

Outstanding! Steffen Jorgensen continues to shine

William Church Winery 2008 Sarah’s Vintage Viognier Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 14.3% alc., $21

Excellent. Stainless steel treatment of Conner-

Lee Vineyard fruit allows for aromas featuring lemon yogurt, banana and orange Creamsicle.

The palate is rich and creamy with more of the same fruit, joined by white peach, delicate acidity and orange peel pith.

Other whites Agate Ridge Vineyard 2009 Marsanne Rogue Valley, 118 cases, 12.5% alc., $22

Excellent. The Kinderman family shows itself to be

a quick study with this lesser-known Rhône white.

Their second vintage is showing lovely aromas of dried pineapple, lemon-frosted banana nut bread, candy corn and corn silk. There’s no sign of oak on the palate, though, as pleasing tartness leads with flavors of lemon, peach, starfruit and dried apple slices. There’s a lingering of honeydew melon and lime in the finish.

Agate Ridge Vineyard 2009 Roussanne Rogue Valley, 84 cases, 12.6% alc., $21

Excellent. Kiley Evans, formerly the winemaker at

Abacela, went with a slightly off-dry approach for this Rhone white and there’s plenty of acidity to carry its residual sugar (1.6%). A very floral nose features dusty apple, tangerine, orchard blossoms and fresh linen. Flavors range from Honeycrisp apple, kumquat, quince and candy corn to sweet lemons at the end.

Chehalem Wines 2009 Stoller Vineyards Pinot Blanc Dundee Hills, 327 cases, 15.5% alc., $17

Outstanding! Turkeys once roamed this plot, and it proves Pinot Blanc deserves a home in Oregon.

Harry Peterson-Nedry’s adroit use of oak (1/3 barrel fermented) provides complexity. The nose shows minerality, pineapple and lemon along with hints of banana. They meet again on the

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Martinez & Martinez 2009 Alder Ridge Vineyard Roussanne Horse Heaven Hills, 130 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

Recommended. Few in the Northwest bottle this

lesser-known Rhône variety on its own, and the Martinez family near Prosser, Wash., turned this into a tasty hot-tubber. A squirt of fresh-sliced lemon, white pepper and minerality join tropical aromas. Prepare for a drink that blasts sweetness of candy corn, ripe cantaloupe and a lemon custard pie dusted with baking powder.

Mellisoni Vineyard 2009 Gewürztraminer Lake Chelan, 49 cases, 13.6% alc., $35

Recommended. Rob and Donna Mellisoni are into

their second vintage of estate whites, and this offering is one of the most expensive bottlings of Gewürz in the Pacific Northwest. There’s a lot of expression with tones of lychee, cantaloupe, pear, cinnamon and white pepper. The spicy clove and sweet guava finish — residual sugar is 3.4% — will make this a pleasing pairing with Asian food.

Nk’Mip Cellars 2008 Pinot Blanc Okanagan Valley, 2,786 cases, 13.5% alc, $16 CDN

Excellent. There are some in British Columbia who believe this variety should be viewed as the province’s signature grape. Randy Picton developed scents reminiscent of gooseberry, lemon, banana, Golden Mile peaches and fresh-cut grass that are reinforced on the palate. It drinks akin to a juicy Fuji apple, followed by a subtle midpalate sheen of lanolin that’s whisked clean using more lemon and gooseberry tartness.

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars 2009 Gewürztraminer Umpqua Valley, 600 cases, 13.1% alc., $18

Outstanding! In May, this former dairy farm will

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celebrate its one-year anniversary, and this snappy drink may be the best wine they will pour. After all, Gewürz guru Terry Brandborg makes the wine. This is brimming with pink grapefruit, apricot, lychee, lemon zest, clove, honey and gardenia aromas. On the palate, there’s a pleasing fruit-to-minerality balance as orange, grapefruit and sweetened lemon flavors are supported by wet rock. And wisely, they limited the residual sugar to 1%.

White blends Airfield Estates 2009 Lightning Yakima Valley, 454 cases, 14.8% alc., $18

Excellent. Marcus Miller does a red Rhône blend, so here’s the white version, a mélange of Viognier (65%), Roussanne (25%) and Marsanne. It’s a nose filled with orange essence, grapefruit, butterscotch, chalkboard dust and freshly sliced Yukon Gold potato aromas. There’s just a whisper of oak in the drink, but it’s mostly a good balance of lemon and grapefruit.

Atalanta Cellars 2008 Tuesday Night White Washington/Idaho, 125 cases, 14% alc., $16

Excellent. Boise winemaker Angie Riff created this blend of Viognier, Riesling and Chardonnay, which will be a welcome friend after you come home knowing the work week is not yet half over. Inviting aromas of orange marmalade, apricot and honeysuckle play out on the weighty palate. There’s a charming persistence of blood orange and fresh-cut pineapple with vanilla.

Black Hills Estate Winery 2009 Alibi Okanagan Valley, 13.9% alc., $30 CDN

Excellent. Vineyard manager Steve Carberry and

winemaker Graham Pierce collaborated well on this blend of Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Semillon that leads aromas of gooseberry, lime peel, apple and minerality. It’s not a disappointing drink either, featuring tartness of quince, gooseberry and yellow grapefruit that sandwich a creamy midpalate of caramel and mango skin.

Cliff Creek Cellars 2009 Marsanne-Roussanne Southern Oregon, 144 cases, 13.5% alc., $22

Outstanding! The Garvin family has farmed in

the Rogue Valley for more than a century, but it only started planting vines in 2000. The wines are creating a following at their tasting room in Carlton, Ore. This blend leads with Roussanne (69%) and opens the door with aromas of apricot preserves, tangerine, peach, mango and canned pineapple. It’s a brisk and refreshing drink circling back to the tangerine and apricot, balanced by secondcut pineapple, then finished with mango in vanilla ice cream.

Domaine Pouillon 2008 Blanc du Moulin Horse Heaven Hills, 200 cases, 14.5% alc., $17

Recommended. Coyote Canyon Vineyard supplied the Roussanne (80%) and Viognier, which went into 5-year-old French oak. That W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases explains the aromas of vanilla, banana and butterscotch. Gooseberry leads the charge on the tongue, followed by more butterscotch, banana and lemon with nice slate in the farewell.

William Augustus 2009 Viognier-Marsanne Rogue Valley, 375 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

Lake Chelan, 400 cases, 13.7% alc., $18

Outstanding! Gus Janeway was one of Oregon’s early advocates for screwcaps, and here is one of the first blends of Viognier and Marsanne in the Northwest. It’s a style others should follow as Viognier (72%) from Gold and Marsanne at Crater View vineyards produce spellbinding aromas of Lemon Head candy, banana cream pie, Circus Peanuts, baking soda biscuit and freshly laundered flannel pajamas. The drink provides an alternative to Chardonnay as it’s rich with butterscotch pudding, banana taffy and orange oil. There’s a wonderful closure of minerality, giving it a dry edge to pair with foods such as clams steamed with lemon butter and vermouth, pasta tossed with olive oil or a good steak.

Recommended. Huge aromatics of pink grapefruit,

Wild Goose Vineyards

Domaine Pouillon 2009 Deux White Wine Columbia Valley, 232 cases, 14% alc., $19

Excellent. Chardonnay (55%) from Brehm

Vineyards near White Salmon, Wash., and Viognier off Coyote Canyon make for a very easy drink of fruit cocktail flavors with lively acidity. Enjoy with a greens served with Roquefort dressing or a shrimp salad.

Lake Chelan Winery 2009 Stormy Mountain White

passion fruit, guava and vanilla emerge from this blend of Viognier (41%), Pinot Gris (20%), Gewürztraminer (15%), Riesling (15%) and Chardonnay. Sweetness stays ahead of acidity on the palate, where it’s orange, lemon cream and Brach’s vanilla Crème Filled Caramel. The tasting room manager must love this, and it also will be enjoyed well-chilled on the patio behind the estate BBQ house.

LeVieux Pin 2009 Viognier/Roussanne Okanagan Valley, 360 cases, 14.3% alc., $35 CDN

Outstanding! Our 2009 B.C. Winery to Watch continues to impress with its high-quality, small-lot program. Some may even call it extreme. These blocks off the Black Sage Bench were cropped to 3.5 tons per acre and dropped in French and acacia barrels for four months. That regimen only seems to have elevated and complemented the exotic nose of orange Creamsicle, white peach and pineapple with a splash of lemon bitters. The palate brings volumes of interest with orange, tangerine, toasted marshmallow and peach. While round and a bit sweet, it’s not out of balance because of some pleasing citrus pith in the finish.

Road 13 2009 Viognier Riesling Sauvignon Blanc

2009 Autumn Gold Okanagan Valley, 2,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $19 CDN

Outstanding! This perennial off-dry blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc — aka “Mom’s wine” — remains the best-selling wine for our 2009 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. It’s easy to see why. The perfumy nose fans out notes of lychee, passion fruit, peach, petrol and toast. And the drink follows the same path. It’s delicious, complex and well balanced as gooseberry-like acidity matches the 3.0% residual sugar.

Sparkling wine Westport Winery

WINE REVIEWS

tomers. Our 2011 Washington Winery to Watch is going down the blackberry path. The aromas are akin to grabbing a blackberry off the vine, with some lime, red strawberry, violets and black currant. It is very much Riesling on the palate with some late acidity to balance the residual sugar (14%) and a bit of berry seed tannin in the finish. This will appeal to the Sunday brunch crowd and would go well with French toast. Serve chilled.

Fruit wines Westport Winery NV Message in a Bottle Washington, 103 cases, 11% alc., $19

Excellent. There’s truth in advertising with

blackberry wine that incorporates vanilla, which takes over the nose with hints of maple nut ice cream and a root beer float. The fruit leads the palate, which is quite sweet (10% residual sugar) and drinks like an adults-only blackberry shake or an Italian soda that’s boozy. Technically, it’s well-made.

Westport Winery NV Red Sky at Night Washington, 253 cases, 11% alc., $29

Recommended. This creation of raspberry wine

blended with chocolate must be a favorite at the Westport Timberland Library, because it receives a donation for each bottle sold. Rather than raspberry, the aromas and flavors are reminiscent of a cherry Tootsie pop, backed by cranberry tartness and bit of tannin to balance the residual sugar (10%).

Dessert wines

NV Rapture of the Deep Cranberry Carbonate Washington, 173 cases, 11% alc., $25

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Excellent. It is billed as “cranberry made for sun-

2007 Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling

rise brunch to midnight toast,” and Dana Roberts builds it with pleasing tartness to sweep clean the residual sugar (10%) and intriguing bit of viscosity on the midpalate. A portion of the proceeds is donated to the Driftwood Theater in nearby Aberdeen.

Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 8% alc., $35

Outstanding! Here’s proof that you don’t need to go north of the 49th parallel for a dessert wine that drinks like a top-notch Canadian ice wine.

Bob Bertheau had these botrytis-covered clustered harvested Nov. 1, which made for succulent aromatics of apricot glacéed, freshsqueezed lemon, honey, jasmine and lime. It’s dog-gone delicious and viscous as flavors of baked apple, more apricot and bananas foster trickle in.

Rosés Martinez & Martinez

Okanagan Valley, 350 cases, 13.9% alc., $23

2009 Cabernet Blanca Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon

Excellent. Perhaps the Luckhursts will come up

Horse Heaven Hills, 180 cases, 12.8% alc., $16

Dunham Cellars

with a suitable proprietary name, but it is easy to pick out the components, which arrived from nearby Castle, Rockpile and Gully vineyards.

The nose comes loaded with lemons, limes, creamy caramel, bay rum, minerality and NECCO water. It’s a zesty drink of Mandarin orange, tangerine and lemon peel, backed by pineapple, slate and taro root.

Excellent. The Martinez family must enjoy a

2008 Lewis Vineyard Late Harvest Riesling

Tsillan Cellars 2009 Sempré Amoré

cold glass of this while watching the warm sunset in the Horse Heaven Hills. Its garnet color is attractive to the eye, and the aromas start by slicing a strawberry/rhubarb pie, joined by raspberry and orange marmalade.

The pour produces sweet cherry and apricot flavors amid a slightly viscous structure.

Lingering notes of orange and pineapple are reminiscent of a mai tai. In Tahitian, that means “good.”

Lake Chelan, 412 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

Recommended. Translated, it means “love

always,” and its new blend of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Gewürz from this Lake Chelan icon. It comes across as an easy and balanced offering of Bosc pear, Golden Delicious apple, rose petal and lemon.

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Westport Winery

Columbia Valley, 750 cases, 9.5% alc., $19

Excellent. Eric Dunham provided the artwork

for the label, and this marked Dan Wampfler’s first harvest for this famed Walla Walla winery. You breathe in aromas of orange marmalade, crème brulée, diesel and lemon zest. It’s sweet but not syrupy, bursting with apricots, passion fruit and more orange.

Acidity shows up in the finish along with butterscotch button candy. The residual sugar is 23%.

NV Little Wild Blackberry Riesling

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

Washington, 396 cases, 10% alc., $25

2007 Late Harvest Viognier

Excellent. A number of wineries near the

Yakima Valley, 67 cases, 9% alc., $21

Idaho/Washington border can’t make enough huckleberry-affected Riesling to satisfy cus-

Recommended. Accents of apricot jam, canned

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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Airfield Estates 2009 Lone Birch White Yakima Valley, 2,478 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Outstanding! The Miller family has farmed near

Prosser, Wash., since before World War II. Only one birch is left, and it reigns over the vines that produced this blend of Sauvignon Blanc (46%), Pinot Gris (38%), Chardonnay (10%), Semillon (4%), Roussanne (2%) and Marsanne. It brings loads of grapefruit peel, lemons, fresh-cut jicama and yellow rose in the nose. The drink seems focused on pink grapefruit and rose water with robust acidity and nice slate in the finish.

Amity Vineyards

ances the sugar and will go nicely with a Waldorf salad.

Columbia Crest

Brown Box Wine

Horse Heaven Hills, 5,000 cases, 13% alc., $15

2009 Chardonnay

Recommended. It’s virtually oak-free, and this

Washington, 1,500 cases, 12.5% alc., $19

Recommended. Steve Hovanes takes the lead

on the Brown Box white program for the Woodinville, Wash.-based Washington Wine & Beverage Co. The fruit, though, is from the Rattlesnake Hills, and there’s a rich, citrus approach with Gala apple and butterscotch pudding notes. Draw off a bit from this 3-liter box and serve with Shrimp Louie and Thousand Island dressing.

2008 Pinot Blanc

Brown Box Wine

Willamette Valley, 1,054 cases, 13% alc., $15

2009 Riesling

Outstanding! Winery founder Myron Redford

Washington, 2,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $19

promoted Darcy Pendergrass to head winemaker in time for this vintage, and judging by this wine, it was a stroke of genius. Modeled after an unwooded Chardonnay, it’s showy with peach, apricot, quince, starfruit, apple blossom and dried pineapple aromas. The drink is dry, bright, refreshing and quenching with more apricot, quince and dried pineapple, capped with a suck of apricot pit for complexity. It understandably captured gold at the Oregon Wine Awards.

Excellent. Of the four cask wines from the mak-

ers of Silver Lake wines, we enjoyed this the most. The blending of Chenin Blanc (9%) and Gewürztraminer (7%) boosts the aromas of pineapple, Uncola and Kiwi fruit. It’s a tasty drink of tangerine, cling peaches and sugar cane. A puff of talcum powder and apple slowly build up of acidity and balance the residual sugar (5%).

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Amity Vineyards

2009 Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Riesling

Columbia Valley, 99,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

Willamette Valley, 674 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Production of this fell by about

Excellent. We dare you to walk into this Amity,

5%, but Aussie native Wendy Stuckey kept the price and the quality the same as the 2008 vintage. It starts with aromas of treeripened Anjou pear, Golden Delicious apple, lemon chiffon pie and fresh herbs. The tasty drink brings lemon yogurt, more pear, honeydew melon and peach. Acidity, while balanced, is not as lip-smacking as some.

Ore., tasting room and tell the owner that Oregon doesn’t make good Riesling. Better yet, wait until you experience this complex, big-acid drink that stars with aromas of apricot, gooseberry, honeydew melon and honeysuckle. Next come flavors of Granny Smith apple and lime juice, which more than bal-

in a drink of Karo syrup that could be mistaken for an ice wine if had more acidity. The residual sugar checks at 18%.

Tsillan Cellars 2007 Dolcezza d’Oro Dessert Riesling Columbia Valley, 804 cases, 11.5% alc., $35

Recommended. Lemon, pear, apple, grapefruit,

dried apple peel and petrol notes are blended into a sweet syrup (12.7% residual sugar) with flecks of minerality.

Ice wine Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery 2007 The Lost Bars Vidal Icewine

and honey, backed by cloves. The sugar was left at 19%, and the structure is balanced but not syrupy. As for the story behind the name, Camp McKinney in the Okanagan Valley was robbed of three gold bars in 1896. The bars were never found.

Lake Chelan Winery

Columbia Crest 2009 H3 Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, 400 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Recommended. Lofty acidity is a byproduct of its

Aug. 27 harvest, and the austere approach of gooseberry, unsweetened yellow grapefruit and jicama might pair well with an English cucumber sandwich.

Desert Wind Winery 2009 Desert Wind Vineyard Chardonnay Wahluke Slope, 569 cases, 14.2% alc., $15

Outstanding! It’s a boatload of tropical fruit, thanks to just 5 percent of the package having lived in a barrel. Cotton candy, pear, banana, fennel and anise show up in the background of the aromas, while the palate carries starfruit, mango and pear juice. The oak shows up as toasted sesame seed, and honeydew melon in the finish keeps it refreshing. Enjoy with fresh Dungeness crab.

Desert Wind Winery 2009 Desert Wind Vineyard Ora Wahluke Slope, 316 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

Recommended. In Spanish, it means “gold,” and

the blend of Chardonnay (60%), Riesling (20%), Semillon (15%) and Gewürztraminer provides a nicely viscous, yet dry expression of pear, orange zest, jicama and chalkboard dust.

apricots, lemon bitters and orange zest is rather restrained for an ice wine, but dessert lovers will find redemption between the gums. It’s filled with crushed pineapple, poached apricots and honey, backed by lip-smacking acidity and finishes with a Bit o’ Honey.

Fortified wines

Columbia Valley, 105 cases, 11.1% alc., $30

Gray Monk Estate Winery

Recommended. Passion fruit, pineapple, lychee

NV Odyssey III Port-style

and lavender fill this lightly syrupy dessert wine from Smasne Vineyard in the Yakima Valley.

Citrus pith and a touch of clove balance the residual sugar (14%).

Okanagan Valley, 470 cases, 19.8% alc., $20 CDN

Mission Hill Family Estate

Outstanding! Here’s yet another delicious wine

2009 Reserve Riesling Icewine

88

fruit-forward yet dry drink comes with a profile of yellow grapefruit, Asian pear, white peach, the outside cut of a pineapple and lime in the finish. Enjoy with oysters.

2008 Chardonnay Ice Wine

Okanagan Valley, 9.5% alc., $60 CDN

from the smaller sister label of Mission Hills.

The nose is resplendent with figs, apricot, honey and vanilla. Rich flavors bring thoughts of apricot ice cream, Golden Delicious apple

2009 H3 Pinot Gris

Okanagan Valley, 8.5% alc., $60

Excellent. Harvest at the Kelowna estate vine-

yard hit Dec. 7, and the hangtime allowed for a residual sugar (33%). While the nose of dried

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Excellent. The Heiss family takes Gamay Noir to new heights with this, blending it with Merlot and developing it in the solera style. It is structured like ruby port and brings a wide range of citrusy aromas including lemon, lime, orange Pop Rocks candy, but also dill weed and a Christmas tree. A pour brings in chocolate-covered orange peel and huge amount of acidity to balance the 8% residual sugar. It’s fruitier than most Portstyle wines, and the chemistry keeps it fresh.

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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Desert Wind Winery 2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Semillon Wahluke Slope, 568 cases, 14.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Barrel fermentation provides aro-

mas of fig, apple butter, dried apricot, hot peach pie and alyssum blossom. There are more signs of the wood in the weighty palate with the continuation of rich fig and nuttiness, and the arrival of citrusy acidity and a sprig of mint lift the entire package. Enjoy with barbecued pork.

Dusted Valley Vintners 2009 Boomtown Pinot Gris

to skins and cantaloupe seed. It’s a clean, refreshing and juicy drink with pineapple, pear and more lemony citrus. A touch of slate and butterscotch add to the mouthwatering finish.

continue their successful partnership with the Milbrandt brothers in this gathering of fruit from Evergreen and the Ancient Lakes vineyards. It’s full of fruit and acidity with a theme of lime, gooseberry, lychee, jasmine starfruit, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Serve with turkey breast or a chicken salad sandwich.

Firesteed Cellars 2008 Pinot Gris Oregon, 12,418 cases, 12.4% alc., $12

Excellent. Fruit from the Rogue and Willamette

valleys goes into the Pinot Gris for this project that first crushed in 1992. Lemon yogurt, apple box, coconut milk, facial powder and a hint of minerality tickle the nose. There are plenty of citrus notes in the drink with yellow grapefruit and orange juice concentrate. It’s also easy to pick out flavors of Golden Delicious apple and unripe apricot.

2009 Pinot Gris Washington, 345 cases, 13.7% alc., $8

Recommended. A rather austere nose of Asian

Henry Estate 2009 Riesling Umpqua Valley, 255 cases, 9.5% alc., $12

Recommended. Some of the family plantings

date back to 1972, and Riesling played a big role. This off-dry angle brings accents of apple blossom, pumpkin flesh, cooked pears, orange zest and starfruit, capped by lemony acidity and baked apple.

Washington, 1,800 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Excellent. Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson

Mount Baker Vineyards

Kathken Vineyard 2009 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 700 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

Excellent. A product of Ken and Kathy Slusser’s

vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, it’s a lively showing of stainless steel fermentation with six months of sur lie aging. That imparts fun aromas of fresh-cut pineapple, orange essence, grapefruit, lime and pine tree notes.

There's balance on the palate with star fruit, jicama and a lick of baby aspirin before the finish of yellow grapefruit pith and some minerality.

Kyra Wines 2009 Evergreen Vineyard Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 192 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Excellent. The Baerlochers’ relationship with

pear, yellow grapefruit, starfruit and dry popcorn transcends into a drink of more pears, lemon custard and a fleshy Gala apple. Late acidity and a lick of slate make this a nice summertime quaffer.

Ste. Chapelle 2009 Winemaker’s Series Dry Gewürztraminer Snake River Valley, 2,200 cases, 13.5% alc., $9

Outstanding! Chuck Devlin takes particular pride in this bottle, which stands as quite true to the variety, yet against the grain. There’s a big spray of orange oil in the nose with grapefruit, gooseberry and lime peel along with minerality and petrol. As a drink, it’s bone-dry and very refreshing with lemon bitters, lychee nut and white grapefruit pith. This no doubt will be enjoyed during the winery’s 35th anniversary this year.

San Juan Vineyards 2009 Siegerrebe Puget Sound, 588 cases, 13.3% alc., $15

Outstanding! Yvonne Swanberg’s island winery continues its tradition of excellence with this German cross of Gewürztraminer and Madeleine Angevine. Vines now in their second decade yield notes of Uncola, Jonagold apples, fresh pineapple, a peach shake and a dusty yellow rose. It’s pear, peach and passion fruit in a dry style on the palate.

Grapefruit bitters, starfruit and a slaty finish should make this a good foil for briny oysters.

Oregon, 6,000 cases, 10.4% alc., $12

the Milbrandt brothers goes back more than a decade because this marks the 10th vintage from this vineyard near the Gorge at George.

It’s a dry drink of quince, Texas pink grapefruit, pears and Jonagold apple. Serve with cracked crab.

Excellent. Here marks just the second vintage

Lake Chelan Winery

2009 Estate Riesling

2009 Riesling Sweet

Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 11.7% alc., $12

Lake Chelan, 289 cases, 13% alc., $15

Recommended. The Mracheks rely on their

Excellent. It’s definitely Riesling and surely

sweet with tones of Gala apple, white peach, diesel, slate and honeysuckle. The finish of 3.4% residual sugar shows up as 7UP topped with lemon bitters, and tasting room visitors will love it.

Malaga Estate, which features one of the more remarkable views in Washington wine country, for this off-dry drink. It offers full flavors of honeydew melon, cantaloupe and juicy pear, backed by a finish of lemony citrus to balance the residual sugar (2.4%).

2009 Lawrence Vineyards Altruism Pinot Gris

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

Waterbrook Winery

Columbia Valley, 479 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

2009 Barrel Select Chardonnay

2009 Pinot Gris

Recommended. Avoiding wood allows this to

Yakima Valley, 13.7% alc., $13

Columbia Valley, 1,958 cases, 13.2% alc., $11

show off accents of a long-hanging apple, grapefruit, jicama, banana peel and minerality.

Excellent. Randy Finley’s ownership of this win-

Excellent. There were only three other wineries

ery in Everson, Wash., continues to push value, even for a wine that requires some barrels. David Traynor sent half of this lot from Crawford, Copeland and Lonesome Spring vineyards, through surlie aging. The perfumy package is akin to lemon plank taffy, lavender and cane sugar. A perception of sweet pears, pineapple, banana and sugared yellow grapefruit sections makes this a quaffer with pleasing acidity.

in Walla Walla when Eric Rindal created this label in 1984. This variety, however, is a relative newcomer to the portfolio that John Freeman lords over at the 50,0000-squarefoot facility. There is a huge greeting of tropical fruit aromas, followed by apple blossom and talcum powder. The palate brings more appealing tropical fruit, including passion fruit.

A bit of sheen adds complexity, as does the finish of citrus pith.

Firesteed Cellars 2008 Riesling

of Riesling for Howard Rossbach and his winemaker, Bryan Croft. And yet it already ranks among the largest productions of this variety in Oregon. It’s crafted with a mind on Alsace as the focus is on Granny Smith apple, slate, minerality and lots of petrol. The sugar is balanced at 1.3%, and shows only in the finish with a lick of Lemonhead candy.

Gård Vintners

Henry Estate 2008 Pinot Gris Umpqua Valley, 1,100 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Excellent. Scott Henry IV, aka Scotty, continues

the family tradition of value wines with this rather fascinating take on a grape that many take for granted. The nose brings in tangerine, lemon and talus aromas, along with pota-

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St. Laurent Winery

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vintage musings

BY BOB WOEHLER

Elk Cove more than great Pinot

T

he picturesque Willamette Valley is a perfect setting for a vintage winery like Elk Cove Vineyards.

Nestled among rolling green hills with an oak tree backdrop, Elk Cove is a popular stop for folks touring Oregon wine country not only for its scenery but also for its fine lineup of exciting wines.

The folks at Elk Cove have been at it since 1974 and have the system down right from the bottle to the tasting room glass.

Elk Cove was Wine Press Northwest’s 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, and for good reason — it makes superb wines.

Leading the way, of course, are a bevy from Oregon’s hallmark variety, Pinot Noir. Not far behind is a standout Pinot Gris.

Yet what makes Elk Cove a cut above many of its Willamette Valley neighbors is its diversity of other delicious wines, including Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Syrah and a rosé. Elk Cove also makes a delicious dessert wine of Riesling., Gewürztraminer and Muscat Ottonel called Ultima.

And in the past, it has made a sparkling wine.

While the genesis for Elk Cove’s success was with founders Pat and Joe Campbell, their son Adam has brought Elk Cove its greatest acclaim.

Adam has put together a team of support folks, including vineyard manager Travis Watson, assistant winemaker Heather Mackey and vice president of sales and marketing Shirley Brooks.

Watson supervises the 220 acres of planted grapes, including five different estate vineyards: Windhill, La Boheme, Roosevelt, Mount Richmond and Five Mountain.

Andy Perdue, editor of Wine Press Northwest, wrote this in his lead article when Elk Cove was named Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. “Adam Campbell is all about passion. For his family, for his parents ... and especially for Oregon wine.”

Good press statements like that have made Elk Cove one of the stars of the Oregon wine world.

“Champion of Value” wrote Wine & Spirits Magazine.

“Pinot Noir & Pinot Gris are standouts,” wrote Wine Spectator.

“Elk Cove is one of the best known and most respected Oregon Pinot producers, thanks to their classically crafted wines,” wrote Forbes Magazine.

“Long-lasting Elk Cove is one of Oregon’s elite wineries,” wrote Paul Gregutt of The Seattle Times.

Elk Cove is not far from Forest Grove and Hillsboro, just outside the tiny Yamhill County community of Gaston.

“The folks came from Hood River and took a chance on acquiring land in the Willamette Valley for vineyards,” Adam 90

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said. “We got lucky with the site, which not only produces some of the best grapes but is considered by visitors as one of the prettiest wine scenes in Oregon.”

Elk Cove makes seven Pinot Noirs, including a $100 reserve.

2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $100: Rated “Outstanding!” by Wine Press Northwest. Managing Editor Eric Degerman had to say: “Not often in life do you get what you pay for, but Adam Campbell rewards the investment in one of the Northwest’s most expensive Pinot Noirs. It’s also extremely expressive with whiffs of boysenberry, plums, lime, chocolate and cedar. Very little oak shows on the palate, allowing for velvety flavors of black cherry, strawberry, boysenberry, marionberry and orange pekoe tea.”

2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $28: As good as the $100 bottle is, the $28 is even a bigger star at the winery. Silky smooth with aromas of cherries followed by those wonderful Oregon berries. Add some cedar spice at the beginning and you have a classic Willamette Valley Pinot Noir.

2008 Roosevelt Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $48: Full bodied with big cherry overtones offering both vanilla and blackberry characteristics.

2009 Mount Richmond Vineyard Pinot Noir, $48: Fresh, fruity and sexy with pie cherry and boysenberry notes. A big wine yet easy on the palate.

2009 Pinot Noir Rosé, Willamette Valley, $15: Pretty in pink, aromas of ripe watermelons and strawberries. Crisp, light flavors with more ripe strawberries and watermelon.

2009 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $19: Starts with grapefruit aromas and yields to pear and peach flavors. Crispness makes this a great match for shellfish taken fresh from the Oregon coastal waters.

2008 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, $19: Oregon — and Elk Cove in particular — have taken this variety that can be understated and made it zing with vitality. Steel and minerals yield to jasmine, apple and citrus. A complex and food-friendly wine.

2008 Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley, $19: Oregon Riesling is a bit gentler than Washington Riesling, I think. Crisp apples are the hallmark here and sweet lime replaces the peach and apricot of Oregon’s neighbors to the north.

2008 Ultima, Willamette Valley, $36: A delightfully sweet dessert wine at 19.2 percent residual sugar showing its aromatic and tasty heritage of 66% Riesling, 17% Gewürztraminer and 16% Muscat Ottonel. Delicious apricots, honey and flower components.

BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.

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