Wine Press Northwest Summer 2008

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 11, No. 2

N O R T H W E S T

Summer 2008

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FEATURES

34 Precept Brands Washington’s fastest-growing wine company continues to expand.

46 Riesling Revival An old favorite gains new fans.

68 Leonetti turns 30 You can still trust that behind the mystique of Leonetti Cellar is a dedication to top-quality wine.

76 Self-serve a no-go in Oregon State interpretation of wine regulations constrains AgriVino Wine Center’s new self-serve tasting venue in the Willamette Valley.

84 Steak, salmon, cigars Two Northwest chefs show how all of these go great with Sun Valley winery Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée.

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DEPARTMENTS 8 Wine Nose Alcohol a burning question with wine

10 A Distant Perspective Riesling’s dry dilemma

12 Market Grapevine Summer’s casual simplicity

14 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Gravity: It’s more than just the law

16 Urban Sips The Wine Whisperer

18 Wine Destinations A weekend in the Columbia River Gorge

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10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings Three decades of Leonetti Cellar

58 Palouse Country Wine business grows in the land of wheat farms of Idaho and Washington.

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Mary Hopkin, Jana Lien Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Mona Perdue, 360-373-2659 E-mail: monaperdue@comcast.net To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $10 U.S., $12 Canadian and $15 outside of North America per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site.

Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below.

Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2008 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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winepressnw.com

We’re also on

NORTHWEST WINECAST

May 13, 2008 AgriVino

“

VOICES

”

from The Wine Knows blog community.winepressnw.com

I was very sorry to hear the news about Mr. Mondavi this morning. To a large extent, many of us in the WA wine industry today owe our livelihoods to this great man. A major voice for wine in America has been lost. My sympathies to his family.

— shawnb (May 16) Someone yesterday and today jogged my memory about the best under $15 daily drinkers, and certainly the Lone Canary blends must be included! The Bird House Red, Rosso and Rouge are all very nicely made wines that rise well above the ordinary.

They are about $15 at the winery. I believe the Rosso has some sangiovese in the blend, which I really enjoy. Now ... I gotta go shopping!

— timinspokane (May 13)

Each Tuesday, catch the Northwest Winecast, an online video show. Recent episodes have gone to Sooke Harbour House, Leonetti and the Snake River Valley. Available on YouTube and on our website, winepressnw.com.

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

Alcohol a burning issue with wine

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hether you’ve read about it in wine publications or seen it on the bottle, you’ve no doubt noticed the rising level of alcohol in wine.

The reasons for higher alcohols are many, but they come down to these: • In the vineyard, winemakers are demanding lower tonnage than ever before. Smaller crops tend to mean higher concentration of natural sugars in the wines, which converts to higher alcohols in the bottle.

• Through the years, viticulturalists have fine-tuned their irrigation practices to the point where they are able to nearly add water to the vines by the teaspoon. Water usage in vineyards is vastly lower than it was 15 or 20 years ago, which means better control over the vines, canopy cover and berry size.

• Winemakers are letting fruit hang longer on the vines.

Winemakers like to see deeper, more complex flavor development in their grapes, which comes from time on the vine.

Two decades ago, many Northwest winemakers were happy to hit 20 brix (a measurement of sugar in a wine grape) and thrilled with 24, which theoretically would make a wine with 12 percent alcohol. These days, 24 brix would be the minimum ripeness for a red wine grape — and 26 to 28 brix is fairly common.

• Temperatures seem to be warmer, winemakers say. Sidestepping the politically explosive issue of global climate change, warmer temperatures do cause grapes to ripen more, thus accumulating more sugars, raising alcohols, etc.

• The world’s most influential wine critics (not us) would seem to favor wines that are more powerful in flavor and structure. This means wines that are riper, bolder — and higher in alcohol. Thus, winemakers chasing higher scores will let their grapes hang longer to try to achieve those bigger wines and scores.

So what’s the big deal? Why should any of us care if alcohols are rising in wines? Here are the arguments: • Varietal differences tend to dissipate with higher alcohols. The riper grapes become, the more they taste the same.

That’s the major argument put forth by Dan Berger, the Santa Rosa, Calif., wine writer (and Wine Press Northwest columnist) who has often understood Don Quixote’s plight while tilting at 16 percent alcohol Zinfandels.

• High-alcohol wines tend not to go as well with food. This is partly because the alcohol can overwhelm foods, especially those with more delicate flavors and spices. It’s also partly because grapes that have hung on the vine longer drop their natural acidity, thus making the resulting wines much more plush and soft. Acidity acts as a backbone for wine, helping the marriage with food. And alcohol dulls the senses, making food taste more bland.

• High-alcohol wines tend to age poorly. Again, the higher a wine’s pH, the less chance it has of being in balance with fruit, 8

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acidity and (in a red wine’s case) tannin. An out-of-balance wine will rarely age gracefully. (The exception to this is Ports and Port-style wines, which are fortified with high-proof alcohol. They’re also sweet and have good acidity and, thus, are balanced and are among the world’s most age-worthy wines.)

• Higher alcohols mean more alcohol in your system.

Thus, you can drink less if you’re at a restaurant or dining with friends. It doesn’t take too many glasses of 15 percent Syrah before you reach 0.08 percent blood-alcohol level.

What is the solution? Actually, there are several. Many winemakers are leaving more grapes on their vines, thus distributing the ripeness further. They can still get their hang time without the fast accumulation of sugar. As a bonus, they get more wine to sell. At least one Napa Valley company makes its living by reducing alcohol in wine (and sells that same alcohol to other wineries making Port-style dessert wines). A regionally famous wine merchant in Sacramento, Calif., is now refusing to stock wines higher than 14.5 percent alcohol.

Winemakers are starting to feel the, er, heat of higher alcohols. Some are picking their grapes earlier or using vineyards at higher elevations and cooler regions.

One of Washington’s up-and-coming vineyards, Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills, is able to let its Cabernet Sauvignon hang through October and barely move past 24 to 25 brix. This is because of elevation, location and good viticulture. Guess which vineyard is becoming a favorite with the state’s top winemakers?

In this issue, please take note of two details: • In our extensive report on Northwest Rieslings, notice the alcohol levels. While they aren’t in the 8-10 percent range typical of German and Alsatian Rieslings, they are much closer to 11-12 percent. The lower alcohols allow the fruit to shine and seem fresher and lighter — and go better with food. Few Rieslings topped 13.5 percent, even though Riesling often is harvested into October.

• In March, we asked readers of our Wine of the Week newsletter and The Wine Knows blog if they wanted alcohol levels included with our wine reviews. Overwhelmingly, the answer was “yes.” This isn’t a political thing for us, but rather giving readers what they want: more information before buying a wine. It’s also interesting for me to see what our tendencies are with wines that are higher or lower in alcohol.

But that’s fodder for another column.

Let me know your take on the whole alcohol issue, either by e-mail or on the blog.

ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 and via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com. Watch his weekly video wine show at www.winepressnw.com.

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a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Riesling’s dry dilemma

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y love for Riesling should know no bounds, but alas there is a drawback that has me gnashing my teeth.

Is Riesling’s image that of a sweet wine?

A bit of background here. Riesling has a long track record around the world, notably because of success in Germany. It can make a wine that displays its regionality (the classic examples are the distinctive delicacy of Mosel wines and the relatively richer Rheingau styles) and it makes wines of such distinctive differences that its strongest supporters argue that it can work with a huge array of foods, including red meats.

Early in its existence as a wine in the United States, Riesling was rather sweet and carried the word Rhine. It was bottled in tall bottles (called hock), and seen as a wine for sipping.

Almost no one ever served it with dinner.

And part of the reason is that it was never made dry.

Here we reach a dilemma. The most appealing new style of Riesling is relatively, if not bone, dry. And in this style the wine displays significantly wider flexibility, showing ability to pair nicely with a huge variety of foods. I have had bone dry Rielsings with seafood, chicken, salads and many different appetizers.

But can they really be sold? Is this a viable category for Americans?

Back to history: Since about the 1950s, perhaps earlier, the wine called Riesling has been made for most U.S. wine buyers as a sweet or slightly sweet wine. Despite the fact that such wines work nicely with Asian foods, notably Thai and curry dishes, the word “Riesling” means “sweet” wine to most buyers.

In the last five years or so, Riesling sales are rising. The main reason, I believe, is that the Anything But Chardonnay movement that we have all heard about finally had its impact: people seeking wines other than the same-old Chardonnay flavors. And the reason that Riesling is the new favorite of exChardonnay drinkers: It is as sweet as Chardonnay (!) and it doesn’t have the negative impact of oak (which is, after all, not a fruit-based aroma or taste).

All this is good news for keeping Riesling in the ground and for winemakers who love the grape and desire to make a more classic statement. Chardonnay is, after all, an easy grape to make into a simple wine, but it makes a classic only if the grapes are truly great and the winemaking impeccable.

So more people are seeking Riesling than ever, and the evidence is strong that the wine is back in a big way. Not only is Chateau Ste. Michelle and its affiliated brands able to make nearly 1 million cases of the wine (and sell it), but Bonny Doon Winery founder Randall Grahm has sunk a small fortune into his Pacific Rim Riesling in the Pacific Northwest in West Richland, Wash.

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And other wineries and brands (such as Fetzer, Jekel and Blackstone) have expanded their Riesling production, and wineries like Clos du Bois have entered the picture with entries that initially have sold well.

Moreover, wineries in Oregon, New York, Michigan and Ohio all have made strides to meet the increased demand for this wine despite insufficient Riesling planted in their locales.

So what, you may ask, is the problem with this growth, other than the fact that the expansion of the category may be blunted by a lack of fruit?

It’s the potentially significant niche called Dry Riesling, with the use of the capital D vitally important. Not every Riesling has to be “bone dry” to be really tart and crisp. A bit of sugar is often key to making such wines succulent while still delivering a dry finish.

But Chateau St. Michelle and others are using the term Dry Riesling on wines that are not, in my personal view, as dry as they ought to be, considering the ultra-high quality of the fruit and the winemaking they’re using.

German dry Riesling, called Trocken, often contains up to 0.9% residual sugar, and these wines are often bone dry on the tongue since the acid levels are high and the pH levels very low.

But even Chateau Ste. Michelle’s sensational 2007 Dry Riesling, the sweepstakes white wine at the recent Riverside International Wine Competition, is slightly sweeter than a German Trocken and sweeter than most Australian Rieslings.

The Ste. Michelle wine sells to a broad audience. But its sweetness level is likely to be a turnoff to that category of consumer who want a truly dry wine. And a key fact is that, like it or not, fine wine lovers believe any sugar in a wine disqualifies it as a candidate for their tables.

I believe a category could well exist that is called Bone Dry Riesling, and such wines could carry up to 0.9% RS However, for now all we have at the lowest-sugar level is the term Dry Riesling. And the more wines that are released using this name that have noticeable residual sugar, the more the fine wine consumer will shy away from it.

Since making a bone-dry Riesling is risky, I see problems up ahead in the area of turning Dry Riesling into a category for fine wine lovers.

The solution may well be vineyard-designated wines that are dry enough. Yet Ste. Michelle’s excellent Cold Creek Riesling is a sweeter wine.

So we remain at the same spot: a dilemma.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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market grapevine

BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Summer’s casual simplicity Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

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he casual simplicity of summer in the Northwest inspires cooks to savor the season’s bounty: gorgeous greens and herbs; fresh asparagus; plump cherries, berries and peaches; and succulent salmon.

We begin our simple summer supper with Thai Seafood Cakes with Coconut-Chili Sauce, a recipe from longtime Pike Pub & Brewery chef Gary Marx that’s reprinted from my Pike Place Market Cookbook (Sasquatch Books, 2003). Make the seafood cakes as directed (or buy your favorite seafood or crab cakes at the store), then begin the sauce by whisking together three-quarters of a cup of mayonnaise (low-fat works fine here), half a cup of Thai sweet chile sauce (Mae Ploy is a good brand), a quarter cup of coconut milk (low-fat or regular), along with one tablespoon each chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Drizzle the seafood cakes with the sauce just before serving.

Pair the seafood cakes with Joie Wines’ 2007 A Noble Blend (Okanagan Valley, $21 CDN). This intriguingly aromatic combination of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Kerner, Pinot Gris and Ehrenfelser blossoms into a triple punch of citrus on the palate: pink grapefruit, lemon-lime and orange water with medium-light body and good acidity.

We continue our summer supper with Grilled Asparagus Salad with Prosciutto, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Balsamic Vinaigrette, a recipe from my latest book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007). Begin by blanching two pounds of trimmed green asparagus. Toss the asparagus spears with four tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil until coated, season with salt and pepper and grill on a gas or stove-top grill over medium-high heat for two to three minutes.

Make the vinaigrette by whisking together two tablespoons each balsamic vinegar and minced shallots with one teaspoon of honey in a small, nonreactive bowl. Whisking constantly, add six tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a slow, steady stream, blending well after each addition, until the sauce becomes thick and shiny. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the asparagus among four plates, drizzle with the vinaigrette and drape two slices of prosciutto over the top. Top each plate with one cup of mesclun (salad greens) and another drizzle of vinaigrette. With a clean vegetable peeler, shave curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano over the tops of the salads and serve immediately.

British Columbia chef Rob Feenie suggests pairing his asparagus salad with a good-quality Pinot Gris. Adelsheim Vineyards’ 2006 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, $18) fits the bill, with aromas and flavors of pear, white peach and apple kissed with spice, all nicely balanced by a slightly creamy texture and a long finish. This complex Gris cuts through the rich prosciutto and the salty cheese while not doing 12

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battle with the char of the asparagus.

Northwesterners await the coming of the first salmon of the season much like Francophiles await Beaujolais Nouveau.

With that in mind, why not get the biggest piece of wild king or sockeye salmon you can afford, grill it medium rare and serve it with the kicky Spanish-inspired Romesco Sauce that appears in the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2005)? Begin by placing one very ripe tomato (cored and coarsely chopped); four cloves of garlic (cut in half); one-third cup of toasted whole almonds; two slices of white bread (crusts removed and crumbled); onequarter teaspoon each crushed red pepper flakes, ground hot paprika and kosher salt; and one-quarter cup red wine vinegar in a food processor or blender. Pulse until only very small pieces remain, then add one-quarter cup of extra virgin olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the mixture is smooth and thickened. Season to taste with additional salt, paprika or red wine vinegar.

Pair the salmon with Ponzi Vineyards’ 2007 Rosato (Willamette Valley, $17). This light and lovely Pinot Noir Rosé is like a strawberry blonde in stilettos, with bright watermelon, cotton-candy and strawberry aromas; strawberries, cherries and a touch of sweetness in the mouth; all balanced by racy acidity.

Finish your simple summer supper with a medley of fresh Northwest berries (straw-, rasp-, blue-, black-) drizzled with Ice Wine Syrup, another recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining courtesy of Cellar Door Bistro chef Neil Schroeter. In a small saucepan, stir together one cup of granulated sugar and one-half cup of water and bring to a boil.

Remove from the heat and add two-thirds cup of good-quality ice wine (see my recommended wine below) along with one-quarter cup of Grand Marnier or Triple Sec and onequarter teaspoon of pure vanilla extract. Stir well and cool.

Divide the berries among balloon-shaped wine goblets, drizzle with the syrup, dollop with crème fraîche or whipped cream and serve with crisp butter cookies or shortbread.

Make the Ice Wine Syrup using Sumac Ridge Estate Winery’s 2005 Gewürztraminer Ice Wine (Okanagan Valley, $30 CDN, 375 ml), which seduces the nose like an exotic perfume, rife with rose petal and Muscat aromas and flavors of sweet honeyed melon and apple. Savor the last sweet sips of ice wine with the berries.

Casual, simple and succulent. That’s summer cookin’ in the Northwest!

BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 17 years. She is the author of seven books including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (John Wiley & Sons, October 2007). Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Gravity: It’s more than just the law During my visits to wineries, I regularly hear or read about “gravity fed” being used during the winemaking process. What’s it all about? ravity fed, gravity flow or whatever else you want to call it, the concept is to use gravity in several parts of the winemaking process, especially the crush.

The weight of the picked grapes becomes part of the crushing process; some wineries will boast that’s their entire process.

Many newer wineries large and small are designed to operate as much as possible using gravity to help crush the grapes on one level, route the juice to another level for the start of fermentation and, for barrel aging, to another lower level.

Some wineries even set up their barrels and racks using a bung hole at each barrel’s top and bottom so that as the bottom barrel is filled, its top bunghole is closed, then the bottom bunghole is plugged on the barrel above it and the second-level barrel filled. For a rack stacked several high with barrels, that can save a lot of pumping and minimize the handling of the wine and the barrels.

And, the barrels can be drained from top to bottom once it’s time to move the finished wine to the bottling line.

That all saves time, requires fewer workers and “respects the grapes and the wines,” as an ardent gravity flow winemaker will tell you.

It’s not a new idea, despite the breathless descriptions you might hear from some of the converts to gravity-fed winemaking.

Spend a little time looking on the Web and you’ll discover such wineries that are more than 100 years old were built in the Napa Valley, in the Barossa Valley of Australia and in France and Spain and wherever else wine is made. In fact, much of the process probably dates back centuries beyond that.

But it’s definitely in vogue now. When I was wine touring on Vancouver Island last summer with my wife, Andy Johnston, owner and winemaker at Averill Creek Vineyard, proudly showed us his gravity flow operation.

The summer before, David and Cynthia Enns of Laughing Stock Vineyards on the Naramata Bench in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley made certain to note how they had put the concept to work.

Go to Oregon, meet a winemaker who produces Pinot Noir, and chances are very good he or she will speak the magic phrase for handling that delicate grape — gravity feed.

But the process is used with other varieties as well, especially Sangiovese.

And even wineries making hearty reds from Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo will tell visitors they rely on

G

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gravity feed for their winemaking process.

Typically, gravity can be used to squeeze about 80 percent of the juice out of the grapes. That juice is then set to fermenting separately at most red wine operations, and then the wine press takes over to extract another 20 percent, which also goes off to separate fermentation.

For a rosé wine, the separated juices likely will never come back together. In fact, most rosé is hardly squeezed at all and is made from free-run juice, which minimizes the extraction of the color of a red grape, producing that delightful range of pink colors that make for eye appeal and a fruitier, lessrobust flavor.

For most red wines, the free-run juice and the pressed juice will be reunited when the winemaker begins to review the wine aging in the barrels and calculate just how much backbone and structure a particular wine will need.

Much of the tannin and many other elements that carry some of our favorite flavors and aromas in a good red wine — tobacco, tar, chocolate, spice, pepper, herbs for example — and that give it a good red’s characteristic mouth feel — think tannic, chewy, flannel — get a boost from that last 20 percent that the wine press squeezes out.

Which brings us to a couple more of those delightful French phrases that almost every oenophile will run into eventually.

Vin de goutte is the French term for wine obtained in the free-run process. And vin de presse is what’s obtained from crushing the marc, the solids left behind after the first juice is racked off.

As a wine ages in the bottle, many of those elements from the solids will settle out into the sediment, but they will leave behind elements vital to the wine.

Wines words Since we’ve been having a little fun with French, how about a couple more terms from the land that loves to look down its nose at New World wines? I recently came across enherbement, which has a polysyllabic playfulness I couldn’t ignore. It’s the term for allowing grass to grow between the rows of vines, thus retarding soil erosion and keeping a really hot vineyard site a bit cooler.

And to add a timely term now that all the new reds and whites are being released, how about décuvage, the word for the process of taking wine out of the vats?

KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 38 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com.

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urban sips

BY TERI CITTERMAN

The Wine Whisperer On a recent horseback ride through vineyards in Zillah, Wash., apparently, we weren’t the only ones tasting juice.

And then the horse said ...

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atching an Urban mount me is a funny thing.

Inescapably, one of these city slickers, and believe me there’s always one, kicks one foot into the stirrup, immediately loses his balance and bops and bounces, like his foot’s on fire, trying to save face and not end up on his hind parts. Eventually, when all the butts are in the saddles, reins are in hands and the brake has been tested — “Whooaa, hey, stop, stop!” — we giddy-up.

And let’s face it, anytime there’s a thousand pounds of raw muscle, power and grace between your legs, it might make you a little thirsty. More importantly, it makes us thirsty haulin’ you good-smellin’, west-siders around on our backs.

So it should come as no surprise that sometimes we hit the bottle. Sometimes it’s to keep our sanity, and sometimes we just hit it. It’s easier than trying to pour it with our hooves.

Look I’m no Mr. Ed, but what they don’t know is we’ve got the M.O. on the X.X.O, down-low.

That’s code for “Pour me a glass, I eat grass, all I see is ass ... when I walk.” Now grab your own glass and move out, and I’ll give you a little wine whisper from a horse.

After eight seconds of riding, we come upon Sheridan Vineyard, our first watering hole. Ruby-red brilliance greets us in the heart of this glass of 2005 Sheridan L’Orage. This wine doesn’t look a gift horse in the mouth, but rather soaks in the darkness of blueberry and currant. It’s dreamy and creamy with marinated vanilla and traces of dark chocolate.

The wine is like me, a self-expression of power, elegance and complexity. Speak your mind, but ride a fast horse. Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about!

Then we mosey up to the next tasting barn, and low and behold, it’s a far cry from Brokeback Mountain, but the brothers at Two Mountain Winery aren’t exactly hard on the eyes.

The Two Mountain 2007 Riesling is off-dry and styled down the straight and narrow. It’s a high-falutin’ cowboy tootin’ mouthfull of crowd pleaser with its wet sweetness or sweet wetness, depending on which of your three legs you’re standing on.

Soft and sipable with all the “P” fruits revealed: pear, peach and pummelo — with a long glow of apricot and light honey.

And if that’s not enough, the boys make a silky Two Mountain 2004 Syrah. Elegant to the touch, this deep, shadowy liquid tastes of tobacco and dark cherry. It’s a peppery potion of ripened black fruit and heavenly plum. A sprinkle of jitterbug on the sides of your tongue leaves you chomping at the bit for more.

Back in the saddle, did I hear someone say bicycle shorts?

The common misstep is believing that anyone can ride a majestic creature such as me. No, it’s not like getting back on a bike, and there’s a reason for that.

A little more trail trottin’, and we come upon the winery 16

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where Wineglass Cellars 2006 Chardonnay is being poured. No oak found in them there parts; this is crisp and unbreakable.

It’s a winsome wine that springs to life with pineapple and pear and has a horse’s sense about it — compliment or insult, who can tell? The finish is peachy tart with a blast of Bit O Honey. Ain’t it so, word up.

So we keep on keeping on, round the bend and drop into another tasting hole for a glass of Chistopher Cellars 2003 Red Wine. This wine has a long nose — or maybe I’m mistaking it for mine — full of red raspberries and wild cherries. With a voluptuous tinge of sugar plum on the tip, this wine screams, “Well come on baby, let’s wrestle!” Wound together with a satin ribbon of cola and coffee, this is the wine that can lead a horse to water but can’t make him stop rolling in it.

And conveniently located three-hands down the bar is the 2005 Coltura Red Wine, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

This wine is a slow-low talker that doesn’t say much in that cowboy sorta way. It’s unassuming with bright cherry and red fruit. A little hiss gives way to a relative balance of acid and earth, though the earth’s not moving under my feet, and maybe that’s a good thing. Truth be told, this wine is a little more hat than it is horse, but its rope is long, and you know what they say about a long rope.

And no day on the prairie is complete without a glass of Agate Field 2005 Dancing Cowboy Red. It bursts with blueberry and dark cherry with a little yippy yi oh, yippie yi yay. It unfolds in a rhythm of oak, soft tannins and a little two-step to boot with dark fruit and juiciness shining through the finish.

When they say drinking and driving is a bad idea, well, drinking and riding can be, too. Just don’t go rollin’ under our feet and blamin’ us for getting kicked. If you lie in the street, do you blame the car? And on that note, may your face be long and the horse be with you.

Epilogue: Early on, I was inspired by reruns of The Adventures of Spin and Marty on the original Mickey Mouse Club. I was 5 and really just wanted to kiss Spin and Marty, but that’s when I knew there’s somethin’ about cowboys.

This column resulted from an organized ride on undeniably one of the coldest weekends in our state’s history. Many thanks to the friendly, four-leggeds: Chuck ‘the kicker’, Lady ‘the catwalker’, Butch, Grandma, Dunny and the mules for not bucking us off, even though it was so tempting. Thanks to Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast and Barn for coordinating the ride with real cowboys Paul, Tyson and Tom and cowgirl Jessica of Chinook Pass Outfitters.

With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books.

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a weekend in the gorge

Perfect combination of wine, food, nature

BY A N D Y P E R D U E

With all due respect to stretches of the Oregon and California coastlines, perhaps the most beautiful drive in America is through the Columbia River Gorge.

Fortunately for wine lovers, the Gorge — that 90-mile stretch from Maryhill on the Washington side to Troutdale just west of Portland — is a fast-growing touring destination, thanks to more than 30 wineries, a handful of microbreweries, several restaurants and memorable lodging.

From a viticultural standpoint, two appellations span the Gorge: The southern stretch of the Columbia Valley goes as far south as The Dalles and also covers the towns of Lyle and Maryhill.

The Columbia Gorge also is a bi-state appellation that encompasses Hood

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River, Ore., as well as Bingen, White Salmon and Husum, Wash.

Here is a starting point for your summer Gorge explorations.

Wineries: Wine touring is relatively simple in the Gorge because all the wineries tend to stay close to the Columbia River. You will need to decide which side of the river you want to start on and figure out which bridges you will cross when you want to traverse the mighty Columbia.

Starting in the west, you will find clusters of wineries in Hood River, Ore., and across the Bridge of the Gods in Bingen and Husum, Wash.

In Hood River, Hood River Vineyards is one of the original producers and specializes in gorgeous fortified fruit wines.

Cathedral Ridge (formerly Flerchinger) is crafting one amazing wine after

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another. The Pines 1852 is the winery for a 100-year-old Zinfandel vineyard near The Dalles. Also check out Phelps Creek, Quenett and Pheasant Valley wineries.

Just east of Bingen, the town of Lyle, Wash., is going through a growth spurt with six wineries. Start with Syncline Wine Cellars, led by winemaker James Mantone, who specializes in Rhône varieties.

South and across the river in The Dalles are three wineries. Start with Erin Glenn, which is producing several delicious wines.

Back on the Washington side, don’t overlook Cascade Cliffs on your way to Maryhill Winery.

Food: The biggest towns in the Gorge are Hood River and The Dalles, so they tend to be your best bets for

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meals. Two favorites with the Wine Press Northwest crew are the Sixth Street Bistro and 3 Rivers Grill in Hood River. For a hearty, Americana-style meal, it’s hard to beat Cousins in The Dalles. On the Washington side, Big River Grill in Stevenson is a good bet.

In Lyle, the Lyle Hotel is regionally famous for its winemaker dinners.

Prefer a local microbrew? Full Sail and and Big Horse are in Hood River, while Walking Man is across the river in Stevenson.

Lodging: There is no shortage of places to rest your head in the Gorge.

On the western edge, the Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa offers everything from 78 rooms to mineral hot springs to a restaurant. A spa facility is opening this summer. In Hood River, it’s difficult to beat the Columbia Gorge Hotel.

Across the river are the Inn of the White Salmon and Skamania Lodge. And a number of B&Bs and budget motels

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Maryhill Winery’s vineyards are near the Stonehenge war memorial on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge.

are scattered up and down the Gorge.

More info: It's pretty easy to find information on the Gorge. A good starting point is the Columbia River Gorge Visitors Association, one of the few

groups to represent both sides of the river. Call 800-98-GORGE or go to crgva.org.

AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest.

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activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

Got a problem with gas?

Let me rephrase that. Does the soaring price of petrol have you rethinking some of your summer traveling plans?

It’s already inspired me to tweak my work commute as I’ve begun riding my bicycle to the office one day a week.

One of the beauties I’ve discovered while on my mountain bike is that at one point of my 14-mile sojourn, not much more than the Yakima River separates me from three wineries — Barnard Griffin, Bookwalter and Tagaris.

But for those of us who enjoy the outdoors, golf, concerts and wine, there’s really no reason to ever drive beyond the Northwest.

You are encouraged, though, to invite your friends from California to visit.

Take them to wine country. Have them chip in for gas. And when it’s all over, send them back to Cali.

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Estate concerts. First, there was the Gorge Amphitheater in George, Wash., created in 1985 as a way for Champs de Brionne Winery to perk up sales. The Bryans later closed the winery and sold the amphitheater, but they held onto the vineyard and have since established Cave B Estate Winery near the Gorge parking lot.

These days, Chateau Ste. Michelle (Woodinville, Wash.), CedarCreek (Kelowna, B.C.), Maryhill (Wash.),

Saint Laurent (Malaga, Wash.), Territorial Wine Co., (Eugene), Three Rivers (Walla Walla) and White Heron (Quincy, Wash.) are among the wineries to post their concert listings on our Wine Events page at winepressnw.com.

Among the other prime winery/concert venues are Secret House in Veneta, Ore., Ste. Chapelle in Caldwell, Idaho, and Tinhorn Creek in Oliver, B.C.

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Off-site concerts. In Carnation, the Washington Wines Festival concert weekend (July 11-12) will raise money for the Paul Newmanfounded Hole in the Wall Camps and local project Camp Korey. The concert venue, Carnation Farm, will become Camp Korey — a place for children with serious illnesses to play. A starstudded lineup of Washington wineries is involved in the event that features singers Amy Grant, Vince Gill and Lisa Loeb, as well as celebrity chefs. Go to www.washingtonwinesfestival.com On July 26-27, Woodinville Wine Country presents Wine Notes at Marymoor Park in Redmond. It gathers Woodinville wineries, regional restaurants and national recording artists. Bigname acts include contemporary jazz performers Mindi Abair, Gregg Karukas and Peter White, as well as Tower of Power. Call 425- 205-4394 or go to winenotesconcerts.com.

On Aug. 16, there’s A Case of The Blues in Yakima (yakimagreenway.com), and then Aug. 22-23 is the Vancouver (Wash.) Wine & Jazz Festival. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com for the lineup.

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A very cherry event. When it comes to fruit growers, Williamson Orchards and Vineyards in Caldwell, Idaho, is one of the best in the Northwest. They’ve been growing tree fruit for decades. Their vinifera grapes are less than 10 years old, yet

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W I N E C O U N T RY their Syrah and Viognier already are gems in Idaho.

They continue to grow apricots, cherries, nectarines and pluots — a cross of plum and apricots. Some go to Koenig Distillery. The Williamsons keep much of the fruit for the open-air market next to their tasting room.

Their special event of the summer is June 28 and called “First of the Harvest Party.” It syncs up with cherry harvest and their new wine releases.

“People can eat cherries, enjoy live music, wine and buy fresh local produce,” Beverly Williamson said.

Go to willorch.com/Openhouse.html.

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Loving lavender in the Okanagan.

Wine reviews often list descriptors of flowers and herbs that many urbanites don’t stop to smell.

Well, here’s a great way to grow your wine vocabulary.

The Okanagan Lavender Herb Farm in Kelowna, B.C., stages its “Lavender Discovery Days” over several weekends starting July 5-6. Andrea McFadden’s farm features guided tours and handson workshops, including “Wine Pairing Tips by Quail’s Gate Estate Winery.”

Cost is $5, and every day the farm is open to U-pick options among the 18 varieties of lavender. And you can buy lavender lemonade, lavender scones, lavender ice cream, lavender whipped cream, etc. Call 250-764-7795 or go to okanaganlavender.com.

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Saddle up and head for the Hills. The Horse Heaven Hills Wine Growers stage the third annual Horse Heaven Hills Trail Drive on July 19. It serves as a fund-raiser for picturesque Crow Butte Park near Paterson, Wash.

The Port of Benton operates the park.

The “ride” plus evening BBQ by the river costs $40. Get each of the nine wineries and shops to put their brand on your ticket, and you are entered into a drawing for a case of AVA wines. The list of participants: Alexandria Nicole, Canoe Ridge, Canyon’s Edge, Chateau Champoux, Columbia Crest, Coyote Canyon, Limping Crow Inn, McKinley Springs and Zefina. Call 509-894-4528 or go to horseheavenhillswinegrowers.org.

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A drive for Stan the man. Here’s the latest show of class by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Proceeds from this year’s Northstar Golf Tournament will seed the Stan Clarke Memorial Viticulture Scholarship at Walla Walla Community College.

Clarke was a giant in the Washington wine industry and the beloved director of the college’s viticulture and enology program. He died unexpectedly at his home Nov. 29, 2007.

Last year, the Northstar Tournament raised $8,000 for scholarship funding.

Organizers want $20,000 this year.

The tournament is July 31 at Walla Walla Country Club, and more winemakers than usual are expected to play this year. Entry is $150 and includes a barbecue. Call 509-527-4275 or sign up at northstarmerlot.com.

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Washington Wine Month. Last August, I swung by the state liquor store in Eatonville on my way to Mount Rainier. I knew I would be sav-

ing a lot because August is Washington Wine Month.

The proprietor had a remarkable little array of Washington wines for a small town in Ron Paul country.

I walked out with six bottles of the Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Riesling and six of the Barnard Griffin 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese. Days before, that Riesling received a huge ovation from an international gathering of Riesling winemakers. The rosé won best of class at the San Francisco Chronicle. Full retail would have been about $130. I paid $80.

Mid-July is when the Washington State Liquor Control Board releases the list of Washington wines that will be available at discount in stores during Washington Wine Month. Go to winepressnw.com or liq.wa.gov to get the pdf when it becomes available. And tell them “Bargain Bob” sent you.

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A farmers market with a winery.

Sunshine Farm Orchards and Market near Chelan, Wash., is the

result of a four-generation 100-acre apple orchard turning into a diversified sustainable farm.

Part of the business model developed

by Guy Evans and his father, Denny, was the creation of an estate winery. So Tunnel Hill Winery was built adjacent to Sunshine Farm, where a variety of farmraised products is available.

Guy’s documentary on his father’s challenges, Broken Limbs, received an Emmy nomination after appearing on PBS. Go to tunnelhillwinery.com or sunshinefarmmarket.com

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The Eno-Challenge of Oregon?

Remember the Discovery Channel’s Eco-Challenge? Well, no Mark Burnett here.

Instead, tourism agencies in Salem, Lane County and the Willamette Valley joined with Zephyr Wine Adventures for a new wine tour.

The Oregon Multi-Sport Wine Adventure spans Aug. 10-14 and features activities, education and wine tasting. It is limited to 20 folks, and they will hike, bike and paddle on, through and near Oregon’s vineyards.

One day you will be guided by Iris Hill Winery owner Richard Boyles on a hike through his vineyards to King Estate.

The five-day tour is $1,700. No special fitness or wine knowledge is required, according to Zephyr Wine Adventures President Allan Wright. Go to OregonWineAdventure.com.

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Remember to wipe your feet.

The 18th annual Oregon Grape Stomping competition will be Sept. 20-21 at Willamette Valley Vineyards in Turner.

Cost is $5 per team per heat. The goal is to produce the most juice. And while the event might sound a bit childish, the winning team qualifies for the World Grape Stomping Championship in Santa Rosa, Calif.

I doubt Dan Berger, our California bureau chief, will be staffing that for us.

Call 800-344-9463 or go to wvv.com.

What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

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June 20-21 Wine Country Celebration, Yakima, Wash. Festivities include a concert by jazz singer Steve Tyrell, winemaker dinners in the vineyards and the Grand Gala Auction and Benefit dinner at the DeAtley Estate. Call 206-285-0514 or go to winecountrywashington.org.

21 Sunshine and Wine, Yakima, Wash. This event is part of the Washington State Wine Competition. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com.

July 9 Rhone Rangers Public Tasting, Seattle. This carnival-style tasting at Pier 66 is called “Guest Chef on the Waterfront”and includes wineries and restaurants.

Proceeds benefit FareStart. Go to rhonerangers.org.

12 Ohme Gardens Summer Wine Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. Ohme Gardens brings together area chefs, smooth jazz and nine wineries from the Columbia River Wine Country association. Go to columbiariverwine.com.

14 Uncorked The Oregon Wine and Art Auction, Carlton, Ore. This marks the 16th annual auction, and Ken Wright Cellars is playing host. Call 503-883-0323 or go theoregonwineandartauction.org.

18-20 Kirkland Uncorked, Kirkland, Wash. City officials have established the event in Kirkland Marina Park, featuring 60 wines from 20 wineries along with foodand-wine pairing workshops. Go to kirklanduncorked.com or call 206-633-0422.

24-26 Sun Valley Wine Auction, Sun Valley, Idaho. The Sun Valley Center for the Arts stages its 27th annual charity wine auction. Go to sunvalleycenter.org.

25-27 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, Ore. Pinotphiles from all over the world visit Linfield College for the 22nd consecutive year. Call 800-7754762 or go to ipnc.org.

27 Oswego Wine and Food Festival, Lake Oswego, Ore. More than 15 wineries from the Walla Walla and Willamette valleys will pour at Millennium Plaza Park. Go to lowineandfood.com.

August 7-9 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival, Vernon, B.C. The annual event at Silver Star Mountain Resort has education and recreation. Go to thewinefestivals.com.

9 Prosser Wine and Food Fair, Prosser, Wash. More than 30 wineries will help celebrate the 27th anniversary of this late-day event. Call 800-408-1517 or go to prosserchamber.org.

14-16 Auction of Washington Wines, Woodinville, Wash. The Washington Wine Commission’s 21th annual benefit spans three days and centers at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Call 206-326-5747 or go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org.

22 Idaho Wine Festival, Boise, Idaho. The Treasure Valley Wine Society organizes this fifth annual event now at the Crystal Ballroom, and wineries pour the wines they entered in the state competition. There will be a people’s choice award. Go to treasurevalleywinesociety.org.

22-24 Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, Vancouver, Wash. This 10th annual event at Esther Short Park features regional wineries, area restaurants and several topname recording artists. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com or call 360-906-0441.

23 Leavenworth Wine Tasting Festival, Leavenworth, Wash. Enjoy Washington wines, art and live music. Call 509-548-5807 or go to leavenworth.org.

23 Southern Oregon World of Wine Festival, Gold Hill, Ore. Del Rio Vineyards blends food, cheese, music and wines from more than 35 Rogue and Southern Oregon vintners. Call 541-855-2062 or go to worldofwinefestival.com.

September 6 Rhapsody in the Vineyard, Corvallis, Ore. Willamette Valley wineries will pour during a downtown art walk. Go to downtowncorvallis.org or call 541-754-6624.

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WINE NEWS

Winery delivers with green pedal power The rising price of gasoline is not having much of an effect on Martin-Scott Winery.

Chris Scott, youngest son of owners Mike and Judi Scott, oversees sales and marketing for the East Wenatchee, Wash., winery. And now he has a new title: wine peddler.

Earlier this year, Scott approached his parents about delivering wines around the Wenatchee Valley on a bicycle.

“Since we are such a small winery and all of our customers are in the Wenatchee Valley, I thought it would be a good idea to skip out on this sky-rising gas prices and do it the old-fashioned way,” Scott said.

He turned to Free Ranch Cycles in Seattle, which set him up with a custom-built “Big Dummy” bicycle from Surly Bikes in Bloomington, Minn. The bike can haul up to 200 pounds, and Scott can carry five 35-pound cases of wine per trip.

He had a jersey printed with his new title, “The Wine Peddler,” on the back and now delivers wine anywhere within “a reasonable distance” from the winery.

“How far really depends on the day’s orders,” he said.

“Typically, it’s a 40- to 50-mile round trip. If I have to deliver more than five cases of wine, it can be a full day.”

With the Wenatchee Valley’s typically beautiful weather from spring through autumn, Scott doesn’t mind the ride one bit. And it can even be a bit of a thrill ride for him.

“The bike really wants to boogie on the downhill parts of the trip,” he said with a grin.

For more information on Martin-Scott Winery, call 509-886-4596 or go to martinscottwinery.com.

Chris Scott delivers five cases of MartinScott wine on his bike in the Wenatchee Valley. (Photo courtesy of Martin-Scott)

Vineyards in Horse Heavens to sell off parcels The Horse Heaven Hills can boast of growing some of the finest vinifera grapes in Washington state, and some of the appellation’s prime vineyards are going on the market.

Owners of Aldercreek Vineyard and Windy Ridge Vineyard have informed Wine Press Northwest they are preparing to sell off their combined holdings, which total about 700 acres.

The sites are five miles west of famed Champoux Vineyard, Phinny Hill Vineyard and Quilceda Creek’s Palengat Vineyard.

Windy Ridge Vineyard covers about 500 acres.

Aldercreek, a 220-acre site, is the estate vineyard for Canyon’s Edge Winery.

The Prosser, Wash., winery is owned by the Groth family.

“We are currently in the preliminary development stages of breaking the vineyard up into 20- and 40-acre parcels and creating individual lots for sale,” said Brian Groth, managing owner of Canyon’s Edge. “The first phase will 24

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consist of 19 lots, both planted and ready-to-plant acreages.”

Some clients of Aldercreek and Windy Ridge already have voiced interest in the project. Aldercreek and Windy Ridge sell fruit to 45 wineries in the Northwest.

In the meantime, the Groth family has other holdings nearby. A portion of that land is dedicated to planting new estate vineyards for Canyon’s Edge, Groth said.

John Haw, formerly of Maryhill Winery, is the winemaker at Canyon’s Edge.

And ultimately, additional land will be made available and turned into a destination development, he said.

“We are planning a large processing facility to accommodate the wine village, an airstrip, a retreat center and individual chalets on the ridge of the canyon,” said Groth, who is assisting his parents and their partners in the development planning. “We will be creating a wine village somewhat like what is happening on Red Mountain.”

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WINE NEWS

Ex-Domaine Serene winemaker Rynders to launch own brand Tony Rynders, longtime winemaker for Domaine Serene near Dundee, Ore., has left to begin his own winery and launch a consulting business.

Rynders, a Wisconsin native, worked at wineries in California, Italy and Australia before moving to the Northwest. He worked at Argyle Winery in Dundee before taking a job as assistant winemaker at Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Wash.

In 1998, he moved to Domaine Serene as the winery moved into its new facility in the hills above Dundee.

There, he focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that gained high regard with critics and consumers.

In May, he left Domaine Serene and announced he would be launching his own winery and winemaking consulting company.

“The Northwest is an exciting, dynamic wine-growing region, and a place where winemaking experience is particularly critical,” Rynders said in a press release. “I’ve been fortunate to work with some of the best vineyards in the world and look forward to sharing that expertise with my clients.

There’s room for quality wines in everyone’s cellar, and I’m excited to play a part in their creation.”

Rynders said he’s close to securing a production facility in the northern Willamette Valley and plans to plant a vineyard on property he owns in the Yamhill-Carlton District. Additionally, he is an owner in Octave Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley and plans to release a wine from that project in 2009.

He plans to make about 500 cases this fall for his yet-to-be-named brand and perhaps up to 1,500 cases for clients. He wants to keep his operation small and focus on ultra-premium luxury wines. He’ll also consult on vineyard and winery design.

For more information, go to tonyrynders.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE NEWS

Mortimers to close Boise restaurant Mortimer’s Idaho Cuisine in downtown Boise, one of the first restaurants in the state to showcase Northwest wines, will close effective June 21.

Jon and Shara Mortimer said they will focus their attention on Franco Latino, their restaurant in Eagle, Idaho.

“For those of you who wonder why we are closing after eight years, the answer is simple: Last month, Jon received the worst review of his career

by The Idaho Statesman’s restaurant critic, Guy Hand,” she wrote. “The review made it obvious that Jon is spread too thin and needs to concentrate on one restaurant.

“Although we were devastated by the review, we both agreed with most of the criticism and decided neither of us could commit the time needed to make Mortimer’s what it should be.”

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B.C. ice wine wins best of show at NW Wine Summit For the second consecutive year, a wine from British Columbia has won best of show at the annual Northwest Wine Summit in Oregon.

The winner was Mission Hill Family Estate for its 2006 Select Lot Collection Riesling Icewine.

A year ago, La Frenz Winery’s Merlot from British Columbia’s Naramata Bench won best of show.

The Mission Hill ice wine narrowly defeated Koenig Vineyards; 2006 Cuvée Amelia Reserve Syrah from Idaho’s Snake River Valley. It took the judges five votes to come down to the winner.

The best-of-category winners were: Best red: Koenig Vineyards 2006 Cuvée Amelia Reserve Syrah, Snake River Valley.

Best white: La Frenz 2007 Viognier, Okanagan Valley.

Best rosé: Harbinger Winery Lemberger Rosé, Red Mountain.

Best sparkling: Domaine Ste. Michelle 2001 Luxe, Columbia Valley.

Best fortified: La Frenz NV Liqueur Muscat, Okanagan Valley.

Best ice wine: Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Select Lot Collection Riesling Ice Wine.

Best dessert: Gray Monk Estate Winery 2006 Kerner, Okanagan Valley Best Fruit: Sea Mist Winery NV Cranberry-Raspberry, Oregon.

The best-of-region winners were: Best Washington (tie): Northstar Winery 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley; Reininger Winery 2005 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley.

Best Oregon: Battle Creek 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley.

Best British Columbia: La Frenz 2007 Viognier, Okanagan Valley.

Best Idaho: Koenig Vineyards 2006 Cuvée Amelia Reserve Syrah, Snake River Valley.

Best Montana: Trapper Creek Winery NV Chokecherry Mead.

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Bargain Bob finds Pure pleasure in wine BY ‘ B A R G A I N ’ B O B W O E H L E R

Bargain Bob traditionally gets excited when he finds a wine under $10, so how come he’s all energized by a red wine that costs around $20?

It’s simple. The wine is made by Woodward Canyon Winery’s Rick Small, who has crafted some of the best and longest-lived Cabernet Sauvignon to come out of the Pacific Northwest.

He also makes a second label called Nelms Road. In a blind tasting, it outranked some of his higher-priced Cabs.

Nelms Road 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley $21: This is made from young vines along with some pressed wine from celebrated vineyards such as Champoux and Sagemoor. The wine shows aromas of herbs, spices and vanilla with smooth flavors of currants, loganberries and tasty chocolate.

OK, so $20 is too steep for your

budget. How about $5 a bottle?

That’s what Badger Mountain Vineyards/Powers Winery in Kennewick, Wash., offers in its 3-liter, bag-in-the box Pure Red and Pure White. The box is equivalent of four bottles.

These may not be up to the overall character of the Nelms Road, but both Pure releases are well made, tasty and have the added convenience of being able to keep around for a month without losing much quality. That’s because no oxygen reaches into the plastic pouch inside the box.

Also for those who don’t liked added sulfites, both Pure Red and White are no sulfites added (NSA) wines. Because NSA wines don’t include sulfur as a preservative, the winery tries to keep the wines fresh. And they should be drunk young.

Badger Mountain 2007 Pure White

(NSA), Columbia Valley, $20: A tasty blend of Müller-Thurgau, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. It goes well with lighter foods and as a cocktail wine.

Lots or citrus, clean and tasty.

Badger Mountain 2007 Pure Red (NSA), Columbia Valley, $20: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot showing off some raspberries, spice and a juicy finish.

A 10-minute drive west, Goose Ridge Winery has come out with a second label called Stonecap. It shows promise for both the palate and the pocketbook.

Stonecap 2006 Monson Family Estates Riesling, Columbia Valley, $10: These are screwcap wines. Envision tangerines, tropical and an orchard fruit medley.

It’s well-balanced with 1.6 percent residual sugar. Great for Dungeness crab or salmon.

Stonecap 2005 Monson Family Estates Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $10: Unoaked but not unloved. A great food-friendly Chardonnay with plenty of crispness. It’s bright and flavorful with pineapple and apple characteristics.

BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.

Ste. Michelle wins best white wine in Southern California Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Wash., brought home top honors in May at the Riverside International Wine Competition in Southern California, winning best white wine for its 2007 Dry Riesling, a $10 wine.

Willamette Valley Vineyards in Turner, Ore., won a double gold for its Tualatin Vineyard Pinot Noir and gold for its Estate Pinot Noir.

Maryhill Winery in Goldendale, Wash., won double gold for its Winemaker’s Red, a $15 blend.

Canyon’s Edge Winery in Prosser, Wash., won golds for a Syrah and blend.

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WINE NEWS

U.S. considers new Washington AVA

BY F R A N N Y W H I T E

Upland Vineyards in 1972.

Though noteworthy enough to be included in Washington wine history books, Upland Vineyards near the tiny Yakima Valley town of Outlook, Wash., has been relatively unknown for decades.

Now Upland — which is known for being one of the first Washington vineyards to grow European wine grapes — is attempting to boost customer recognition of its unique winemaking microregion. Vineyard manager Todd Newhouse thinks creating a new viticultural area will do the trick.

Newhouse has submitted papers to the federal government to create the Snipes Mountain American Viticultural Area. If approved, the Snipes Mountain AVA would encompass 4,145 acres between Sunnyside and Granger. Its name comes from the 1,301-foot peak that overlooks much of the area.

“It’s a pretty unique site, not just for Washington, but for the Yakima Valley,” Newhouse said. “It’s so different, climatewise and soilwise, from what’s around it, that it needs to be designated.”

When Snipes Mountain burst out of flat expanses thousands of years ago, it brought with it an abundance of round rocks.

Those rocks help drain fields perfectly for high-quality wine grapes, said soil scientist Joan Davenport of Washington State University Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center in Prosser.

Upland Vineyards was started in 1917

by Washington wine pioneer William B. Bridgman.

His winery was one of four in Washington that started producing wine in 1934, the year Prohibition ended.

But unlike most other Washington wine producers at the time, Bridgman grew such European grape varieties as Semillon and Pinot Noir, according to The Wine Project: Washington State’s Winemaking History by Ron Irvine.

The Newhouse family took over

Today, Upland grows more than 25 grape varieties, including two from Bridgman’s historic European vines. The vineyard has 535 acres in production.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

The family has “just been slowly expanding and branching out,” Newhouse said. “This will be one more tool to ensure that we’ll be able to continue on into the next generation.”

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WINE NEWS

WSU Tri-Cities to taste Washington wine history Washington State University’s regional campus in Washington wine country is playing host to a tasting of the last 20 years of Washington wine.

The event, called “A Taste of History: 20 Years of Washington Wines,” will take place July 17 at WSU Tri-Cities in Richland.

Tickets are $500, and proceeds will support scholarships for the viticulture and enology program and development of a teaching vineyard that was planted on campus last year.

The guided tasting will feature wines from four Washington wineries: Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Winery, Gordon Brothers Cellars and Woodward Canyon Winery. Three have close ties to Washington State University: Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler, Gordon Brothers owner Jeff Gordon and Woodward Canyon owner Rick Small are WSU grads. Columbia Winery was known as Associated Vintners when it was launched in 1962 by several University of Washington professors.

“This unique tasting is a great opportunity to relive the last 20 years of Washington wine and gain an appreciation for the progress we’ve made — and truly appreciate the excellence that has always been there,” said Vicki Gordon of Gordon Brothers. “It shows me that support for Washington State University’s very own V & E program is not only warranted, but long overdue.

“What a fun experience to taste our first reds made in 1986 and 1987, and to find them still full of fruit and other interesting developments in flavor — like caramel,” Gordon said.

Because of the quantity of library wines available, seating is limited to 70.

Doors open at 5 p.m. The classroomstyle tasting starts at 5:30 p.m. and is followed by a reception with the vintners.

Tickets may be purchased online at tricity.wsu.edu/historyofwine or by calling 509-372-7293.

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WINE NEWS

$3.5 million wine village in works near Red Mountain

BY MARY HOPKIN

A $3.5 million project called the Red Mountain View Wine Complex is being developed in West Richland, Wash., by Stacie and Russ Hamilton of Kennewick.

She said they expect to break ground on the initial building by mid-summer.

It will be 18,000 square feet and include space for the Hamiltons’ winery and home, plus five guest rooms, a commercial kitchen and an event center.

They hope the main building will entice other entrepreneurs to build wineries at the site or invest in one of 10 condo-style, two-story units. Those will offer retail space on the bottom floor with a living area on top.

They would like to have five or six wineries on site, as well as other winerelated businesses, such as restaurants, or quaint retail shops.

“We really wanted to incorporate the

mixed use into this project and offer empty nesters the ability, and the security, of living at the business,” Hamilton said.

The village will be just a few miles from Red Mountain, where another wine village is planned, as well as many

other new wineries.

Hamilton said they hope to have their winery, which they still haven’t named, complete by spring barrel tasting. Charlie Hoppes, owner of Fidelitas Wines on Red Mountain, will be the winemaker.

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Andrew Browne, chief executive officer of Precept Brands, has built Washington’s fastestgrowing wine company.

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F E AT U R E

Precept Rising How a Seattle company went from zero to 600,000 cases in five years

BY M A RY H O P K I N PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

A

ndrew Browne, the boyish, energetic 38-year-old founder and chief executive of Washington’s fastest-growing wine company, Precept Brands, admits to being a little lucky. But it takes more than luck to grow a start-up wine company to the largest privately held wine company in Washington state in just five years.

Last year, Browne’s Precept Brands had more than 30 brands and sold more than 600,000 cases.

“You have to put yourself in the position to get lucky,” Browne said.

That’s likely good advice to take from a guy who at 21 was scratching out a living hawking cell phones in Santa Monica, Calif.

His affable charm was earning him more money and opening more doors than the history degree he earned from the University of Washington.

Then one day, he sold a couple of phones to some men who worked for a California wine distributor.

“They came back the following day and offered me a job,” said Browne, seated at a long, heavy slab wood table in a farmhouse at Precept’s Canyon Ranch Vineyard — the company’s first and only vineyard.

Precept bought a 500-acre Prosser, Wash., vineyard, previously called Snipes Canyon Ranch, in January from Keith Klingele, who is now the company’s vineyard manager.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

It’s a project Browne, who leaves the winemaking and grape growing to his hand-selected team of professionals, is excited about.

The picturesque vineyard will allow Browne’s winemakers to work directly with Klingele to grow the grapes specifically for each of Precept’s labels — giving winemakers the ability to have more influence over the wine, from the vineyards all the way to the bottle.

After a handful of years doing sales and marketing for distributors and wineries in California, Browne and his wife were ready to head home. Browne grew up in Spokane, and he was ready to get back to the Northwest.

He got the opportunity to work for Columbia Winery, where he met Dan Baty, owner of Corus Estates & Vineyards, which owned Columbia Winery, Covey Run and Paul Thomas in Washington and Ste. Chapelle and Sawtooth in Idaho.

Baty saw enough potential in Browne to turn the Corus reins to Browne, who, at just 28 years old, became president of the company.

Then in 2001, Corus sold most of its wineries to Constellation Brands, the world’s largest wine company, for $52 million, and Browne stayed with Constellation as vice president of Northwest sales and operations.

But working in a corporate setting was too confining for Browne, a pas-

sionate, creative businessman who is always looking for a new venture.

“Andrew wasn’t happy, and it was kind of like his wings had been clipped,” said Alex Ootkin Evans, Precept’s vice president of marketing.

Evans worked with Browne at Columbia Winery and also made the transition to Constellation after the Corus sale, staying with the company even after Browne left in 2002.

“I’d learned a lot at Columbia,” Browne said. “And I knew I wanted to build a new company that could be sustainable for the long term.”

And he knew he wanted to do it with the trusted team he had built at Corus.

“There are five of us who work extremely well together,” Browne said. “It’s a good team, and there’s a lot of mutual admiration.”

Browne, with his mentor Baty as a partner, called the co-workers, who included Evans, to see if they were willing to help him build his new company: Precept Brands.

She was working in the marketing department at Constellation’s California headquarters when she got the call from her former boss.

“He offered me less money and more work,” Evans said.

But she also trusted Browne enough to know whatever he was going to do would be special and she would have plenty of creative freedom.

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precept brands

In 2003, Browne launched Precept. The company’s business plan reached out to the everyday wine consumer, offering modestly priced, quality wines.

In the beginning were Avery Lane and Sockeye which offered a wide selection of wines; Pavin & Riley, a Merlot-only label; and Barrelstone, a Syrah-only brand. Out of the last 150 wineries to have been bonded in Washington, Precept was the first to focus completely on selling wines for $15 or less.

With just a handful of employees and by contracting to have wines made by others in the classic

European négociant style, the company shipped nearly 70,000 cases of wine to 15 states in the first seven months and made the first of many winery acquisitions, purchasing Washington Hills in Sunnyside from Harry Alhadeff.

Browne repackaged Washington Hills, and the following year the company’s business more than doubled. In four years, the Washington Hills brand has grown by nearly 500 percent, Evans said.

Browne will be the first to tell you he’s not a wine expert. His talent lies in marketing, an essential key in creating a successful winery, espe-

cially in Washington, where the number of bonded wineries has topped 500.

First, you have to get the right wine in the right package, Browne said. Then, you have to get that wine into the consumers’ hands — and hope it leaves a big enough impression to keep them coming back.

The hard part for small wineries is getting the wine to the consumer.

And that’s where Browne is finding his niche. He has built a portfolio of quality wines through partnerships and buyouts that appeal to a wide audience. The company’s growing

PRECEPT METEORIC RISE 2002

JUNE 2003

Andrew Browne and his business partner combine their collective 50 years of Washington winemaking and branding experience and start Precept Wine Brands.

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Pine & Post wines launchs.

FEB. 2006

Precept listed as No. 25 in Wine Business Monthly’s list of Top 30 U.S. wine companies.

APRIL 2006

Wine Enthusiast awards Pine & Post 2004 Merlot and 2004 Chardonnay 87 points and Best Buy ratings.

Pendulum, a delicately balanced red blend and a joint venture with Allen Shoup, is announced (owned 100% by Precept in 2008).

S E P T. 2 0 0 6

Precept partners with Charles Smith and The Magnificent Wine Co. to bring outstanding Washington wine into everyone’s home with House Wine and Table Wine.

Joint venture partnership between Precept and the Monson family of Goose Ridge in Richland, Wash., debut the 2002 vintage of Sol Duc, a $50 ultra-premium Columbia Valley blended red wine.

Charlie Hoppes is the winemaker.

DEC. 2006

Wine Enthusiast names Pine & Post 2004 Chardonnay as one of the Top 100 Best Buy Wines of 2006.

FEB. 2007

Precept acquires Waterbrook, Walla Walla’s fourth-oldest winery.

Ships 70,000 cases in 2003 (June – Dec.).

S E P T. 2 0 0 4

Avery Lane featured on cover of Wine Press Northwest with article on “Great Northwest Value Wines.”

DEC. 2004

Washington Hills cask wines launched.

SPRING 2005

Washington Hills cask wine recommended in Family Circle magazine to more than 4 million readers.

JAN. 2006

Acquires Washington Hills.

APRIL 2005

Washington “lifestyle” wines introduced: Sweet Pea (apple wine) and Wrangler.

The Puget Sound Business Journal lists Andrew Browne as one of the Newsmakers of 2005 for being an innovator: “leaders notable for their creativity or striking advancements.”

O C T. 2 0 0 3

DEC. 2004

FA L L 2 0 0 5

DEC. 2005

DEC. 2003

MARCH 2005

“Precept International Vineyards” launches with a focus on selling wine outside the U.S.

First case of wine ships; Precept sells in 15 states; total number of employees: 5.

First wine company out of the last 150 bonded in Washington to focus completely in the Under $15 category with the launch of Pavin & Riley, Avery Lane, Barrelstone & Sockeye.

JUNE ’03-DEC. ’04

JUNE 2005

47 “Best Buy” ratings for wines under $15.

Ships 200,000 cases in 2004.

“Precept Prestige Portfolio” launchs, a new channel management division representing Precept’s ultra-premium wines to the broad market; designed to further Precept’s expansion by focusing on the high-end wine segment.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 O O 8

Precept is listed as No. 22 in Wine Business Monthly’s list of Top 30 U.S. companies.

J U LY 2 0 0 7

House Wine listed as the No.2 Hottest Small Wine Brand of 2006 according to Wine Business Monthly.

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precept brands portfolio makes it much more attractive to distributors, which traditionally don’t want to carry brands that sell only a few hundred cases of wine a year.

That gives Dave Minick, founder of Willow Crest Winery, and Harry Alhadeff, who started Washington Hills and Apex, a better chance at finding shelf space at supermarkets throughout the nation.

The two have entered into partnerships with Precept Brands, and their labels are among the Precept portfolio.

Minick produces more than 8,000 cases of Willow Crest a year, but get-

DEC. 2007

ting it to consumers has always been the trickiest task, he said.

“I’m a one-man show,” said Minick, who entered into a partnership with Precept in April. “I’m the vineyard manager and the winemaker.”

And he has a tasting room in Prosser to run.

“If I tried to do the marketing, I’d run out of daylight hours,” said Minick. “There are better uses of my time.”

That’s why the co-ownership with Browne works so well for him.

“Andrew is definitely a visionary, and he came up with a concept I felt

Precept launches a $500,000 Northwest advertising campaign for Waterbrook Winery, including TV, radio, print and online ads. Additional campaigns are launched for Pine & Post (print & radio) and House Wine (billboards/wallscapes & print).

Pine & Post Chardonnay is recommended as No. 10 of Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Best Buys of the Year for the second consecutive year.

Real Simple Magazine recommends Watebrook 2005 Mélange as “What to Sip” for the holidays.

JAN. 2008

FEB. 2008

Precept purchases Canyon Ranch Vineyard (previously Snipes Canyon Ranch), a 500-acre property between Prosser and Benton City in the Yakima Valley. Plans are made to expand the vineyard from 150 acres to 400 acres.

Precept Vineyard Estates will be the Precept division, managing all vineyard properties including Canyon Ranch Vineyard. Keith Klingele, former property owner, will continue to manage the site.

Precept forms a joint venture partnership with David Minick and Willow Crest Winery in Prosser, Wash.

Precept forms a joint venture partnership with the McClaskey family and Red Door Cellars in Oregon.

Precept is listed as No. 21 in Wine Business Monthly’s list of Top 30 U.S. companies.

MARCH 2008

Waterbrook Mélange is rated as one of the top 20 Washington Red Wines in Food & Wine Magazine Pine & Post Chardonnay is recommended as the No. 1 Value Wine in Food & Wine

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

strongly about,” Minick said.

Precept isn’t a partner in Minick’s vineyards but owns half of Minick’s Prosser winery and tasting room.

Minick said now Willow Crest will focus on estate-grown, predominantly white varietal wines, including Pinot Gris and Riesling. He’ll also make small lots of Chenin Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Port, rosé, Chardonnay, Merlot, Mourvedre and late-harvest wines as tasting room exclusives.

Browne struck a similar deal with Alhadeff, buying half of the Apex label, four years after buying Washington Hills.

Magazine’s Great American Wines Under $15 and is featured live on NBC’s Today.

Real Simple Magazine recommends 2005 House Wine Red. Magnificentwine.com ecommerce web site is launched

Waterbrook 2004 Merlot is the No.1 Value Merlot in the Seattle Times’ Best Washington Wines of 2007.

F E AT U R E

APRIL 2008

Precept Wine Brands forms a joint venture partnership with Harry Alhadeff and Apex Cellars (including Apex, Apex II & Bridgman).

Precept announces the groundbreaking of Walla Walla Wine Works; its new stateof-the art winery in Walla Walla, Wash.

WWWW will produce 250,000 cases annually and is scheduled to open for harvest 2008. Waterbrook will be the winery’s flagship brand and the site (on Highway 12 in Walla Walla) will include a visitors center and provide Washington wine education.

2006 House Wine White receives 89 points and a Best Value rating from Wine Spectator.

To date Precept Wine Brands has: • More than 25 brands in its portfolio.

• 10 established partnerships.

• Sold 600,000 cases in 2007.

• Total number of employees in North America: 35.

Precept wines are sold throughout the United States and in Canada, Japan, Taiwan, Australia, New Zealand and the United Kingdom.

Precept Wine Brands is Washington’s largest privately owned and its thirdlargest wine producer.

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precept brands

“He’s done an impressive job of growing that label, and he’ll be able to take Apex to a new level,” Alhadeff said.

Alhadeff started Washington Hills in 1988 with highly respected winemaker Brian Carter, and the brand grew into a favorite with Washington wine lovers.

“For Apex to grow, it would have required a lot of capital in infrastructure and distribution,” Alhadeff said.

“Small brands have an extremely difficult time getting any focus from distributors.”

They have few choices, Alhadeff explained. Small winery owners can find a small distributor that handles a small portfolio of high-end wines sold in small amounts to wine retailers or restaurants. Or they can go with large distributors, which are dominated by the big players “who won’t sell any of your product,” Alhadeff said.

Minick and Alhadeff said their partnerships will allow them to grow their wineries while also growing Precept’s portfolio — allowing them to sell more wine to a wider audience.

Most of the wines in Precept’s portfolio are from Washington, but Browne hasn’t overlooked customer demand for Australian and Spanish wines. They created a Spanish brand, El Paseo, and bought Shingleback, an Australian winery that offers Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Browne also forged a partnership with Charles Smith, owner of K Vintners in Walla Walla, to market the popular wines Smith created under the Magnificent Wine Co. label, which include House Wine, Red Table Wine, White Table Wine, Steak House and Fish House.

And Browne bought Waterbrook Winery, one of Walla Walla’s oldest wineries. As part of the deal with Eric Rindal, he retained winemaker John Freeman, who has become the company’s head winemaker.

Browne said the partnerships 38

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 O O 8

Precept has entered into are as much about the people involved as the product they make. And Precept’s success is the result of the people working with him.

“Success is based on all the critical parts of the organization — everyone in the organization. We have good leaders, not just on the executive level, but on the ground as well,” he said.

When he finds good people, he gives them the opportunity to succeed and get lucky — similar to the opportunities presented to him by Baty, he said.

Not everyone thrives in Precept’s working environment, Browne admitted. Browne doesn’t micromanage people. He hands them the ball, heads them toward the goal, and then expects them to figure out how to get there.

Then, he’ll throw another ball.

He’s always looking for another opportunity or thinking about

another idea and often his management team has to rein him in, he said.

“This is not a top-down organization,” Browne said. “I like that they will tell me when I’m out of line or going too fast.”

Right now, they might accuse him of moving fast.

While the company’s new vineyards are being planted in Prosser, construction on a $10 million winery project has started. In April, the company broke ground on Walla Walla Wine Works, a new 53,000square-foot winery and production facility being built on 70 acres near Walla Walla.

Waterbrook will be the flagship wine for Walla Walla Wine Works, but the tasting facility also will feature many of Precept’s other Washington labels, including Pendulum, Shimmer Wines and The Magnificent Wine Co. wines, and likely other new ventures.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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precept brands

F E AT U R E

PRECEPT’S MANY FACES WA S H I N G T O N :

Gabriela Jimenez puts together a grow tube to protect a grape vine seedling at Canyon Ranch Vineyard in Prosser, Wash.

Freeman will manage the production facility, which will be large enough to store 8,000 barrels of wine, hold 55 tanks and have its own crush pad and bottling line.

The winery is expected to be complete in time for harvest this fall. It will include a 5,000-square-foot tasting room and a visitors center focused on consumer education featuring information about the Walla Walla wine region and the state’s wine industry and growing areas.

Miller said the visitors center will open in December and will have private meeting rooms and a large patio and feature catered receptions and a retail tasting room to showcase the premium wines produced at the facility.

The landscaped grounds will feature walking trails, fish ponds and sprawling patios with views of the Blue Mountains. The winery will incorporate ecologically friendly practices and low-energy use.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

“Walla Walla has a huge national footprint in the wine industry, and it’s important that we share its rich heritage with the public,” Browne said.

Miller said the company will keep Waterbrook’s downtown Walla Walla tasting room open.

Right now, the company has no vineyards in Walla Walla, but that’s not out of the question, Browne said.

“Making wine is about the vineyards and the land, about blending and crafting. It’s about the winemakers and the growers,” Browne said.

“That’s why we have great plans to continue to develop more worldclass vineyards in Washington state in the years to come.” ı MARY HOPKIN covers the wine industr y for the TriCity Herald newspaper in Kennewick, Wash., and is a frequent contributor to Wine Press Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

Apex Avery Lane Barrelstone Big Sky Grizz Huck Magnificent Wine Co. Pavin & Riley Pendulum Pine & Post Rainier Ridge Shimmer Sockeye Sol Duc (made with Goose Ridge) Sweet Pea Washington Hills Waterbrook WAWA Willow Crest Wrangler AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND:

Fauna Outback Chase Red Knot Screwed Shingleback Sinplicity The Gate EUROPE:

Bloom Ciao Bella El Paseo Red Beret Solo Struktur SOUTH AMERICA:

Pinot Black Sauv White

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN AREA

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER

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WINE COUNTRY: GRANT COUNTY

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WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA

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WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA VALLEY

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Northwest Riesling Washington takes the lead in resur recting an old favorite.

BY ANDY PERDUE

R

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

iesling was an early favorite in the Pacific Northwest and brought a certain level of fame to Washington wineries in the 1960s and ’70s. Yet since the ’80s, the noble grape of Germany and Alsace declined in popularity as Chardonnay fever gripped the West Coast.

For the past decade, those who pined for the refreshing flavors of Riesling have declared a coming Riesling renaissance of sorts in Washington, and those predictions have come true, led by the state’s flagship winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Today, Ste. Michelle crafts upward of 650,000 cases of Riesling annually, making it the world’s largest Riesling producer. As a company, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates tips the scales at nearly 1 million cases of Riesling, including Columbia Crest and Snoqualmie Vineyards.

Hogue Cellars, a longtime Yakima Valley winery, produces nearly 200,000 cases of Riesling, and its fellow Constellation wineries in the Northwest — Columbia, Covey Run and Ste. Chapelle — collectively account for another 300,000 cases.

Not to be forgotten is the Randall Grahm-owned Pacific Rim Winemakers, which relocated to West Richland, Wash., from Santa Cruz, Calif., last year, building a multimillion-dollar facility behind Red Mountain capable of producing 300,000 cases of Riesling. In 2007, Pacific Rim made 135,000 cases, almost all of it Riesling.

“Washington has the potential to make some of the very best Riesling in the world — and to do so with some scalability,” said Nicolas Quillé, general manager and winemaker for

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Pacific Rim. “The scalability factor is important because it provides credibility and awareness and allows wineries to invest in Riesling safely.”

Quillé pointed out that Washington already is the largest Riesling producer in the United States and has the seventh-largest Riesling acreage in the world, about one-third of Germany’s Mosel-SaarRuwar region, the world’s largest.

“Riesling might be one of the grapes that can give Washington a true differentiator in the wine world,” he added. “Could it be our New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc?”

Bob Bertheau, head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle, could not agree more. In fact, with so much of his volume wrapped up in one variety, he’s staking his reputation on it.

When he came to Washington five years ago, he had little experience with the grape.

“It’s been an amazingly steep learning curve,” he said. “Riesling really does lead the way for Chateau Ste. Michelle.”

Last fall, Ste. Michelle scored a coup with the hiring of Wendy Stuckey, hailed as Australia’s finest Riesling winemaker. Her title is white winemaker, which means much of her time will be focused on Riesling. Today, Ste. Michelle makes no fewer than eight different Rieslings.

“The excitement is that the variety is red hot,” Bertheau said. “It’s the fastest-growing variety in our portfolio. It is wonderful for people just getting into wine, but also for the connoisseur, it’s turning Riesling on its ear in terms of knowing it’s a truly world-class variety.”

W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Best Buy A wine that is $10 U.S. or Canadian and under.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted.

CDN: Canadian dollars.

Meanwhile, Pacific Rim’s approach to Riesling is different than other wineries’, as one might expect when the iconoclastic Randall Grahm is involved. The winery produced seven different Rieslings in 2007, three of which are released so far. The vast majority of the juice comes from Washington, but Pacific Rim also imports some Riesling from the Mosel in Germany, which is blended in. It also makes a Riesling from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Three decades ago, Riesling accounted for 23 percent of the white wine in Oregon. Today, it’s under 5 percent, but we’re seeing a resurgence as wine lovers migrate to wines that pair well with fresh Northwest cuisine. Leading the way is Bridgeview Winery in the Oregon’s Rogue Valley, which makes 40,000 cases, followed by Willamette Valley Vineyards with nearly 25,000 cases. Yet dozens of Oregon wineries are producing smaller amounts of Riesling, far more than we anticipated. And the quality tends to be extremely high.

In British Columbia, at least 30 wineries are making Riesling, and the Okanagan Valley’s northern climes provide steely acidity along

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with fresh fruit flavors, giving winemakers a distinct natural advantage.

In Idaho, most Riesling grapes are gobbled up by Ste. Chapelle, by far the Gem State’s largest winery.

But a few other Idaho producers are making Riesling in small amounts.

After Wine Press Northwest conducted a comprehensive blind judging of 116 Pacific Northwest Rieslings in May, one theme quickly emerged: Wineries that have focused on Riesling for years stood out. Looking through our results, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Pacific Rim, Hogue Cellars, Kiona Vineyards Winery and Wild Goose Vineyards earned multiple “Outstanding” ratings.

Bertheau and Quillé attribute that success to focus and knowledge.

“These wineries have had years to figure out the vineyards to grow Riesling in,” Bertheau said. “New wineries often are exploring new areas. And over the years, you learn how to handle aromatic white juice.

There are protective anaerobic 48

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methods for preserving the wine’s character. That anaerobic handling is extremely important.”

Quillé agreed: “Knowledge is a great asset, and all the wineries you have mentioned have been making Riesling for many years. I also think that to make great wine, you have to specialize and you need a significant percentage of your production invested in one variety. No wineries can achieve greatness without focus.”

In this competition, a common theme with the judges was balance of sugar to acidity and how these two elements brought out fruit and mineral components.

Our judges were Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor; Coke Roth, a lawyer, grape grower and former longtime wine distributor; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor; and Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest editor-in-chief.

Here are the results:

OUTSTANDING Best Buy!

Chateau Ste. Michelle $10 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley No worries about finding the top wine in our competition, as this is the highest-production Riesling in North America. Referred to by winemaker Bob Bertheau as “our everyday Riesling,” this luscious wine is loaded with complexity that belies its price and quantity. It opens with aromas of orange blossoms, tangerines and zingy lemons, followed by delicious off-dry (1.95% residual sugar) flavors that include juicy pears and apples. Beneath all of this is breathtaking minerality followed by perfect balance. (12% alc., 556,000 cases) A to Z Wineworks $13 2007 Riesling, Oregon With the purchase of Rex Hill Vineyards in 2006, A to Z has grown into Oregon’s largest winery in a short period of time. While operating Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Bill Hatcher never saw much Riesling. In fact, this is just A to Z’s second release of Riesling, yet Hatcher and his crew nailed this one perfectly. It’s a fairly dry wine at 0.94% residual sugar and opens with aromas of white pepper, slate, limes and Honeycrisp apples. On the palate are flavors of clean, bright apples, tropical fruits and citrus. It’s a gorgeous wine with steely minerality through the lengthy finish. (12.5% alc., 2,677 cases)

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Arcane Cellars $16 2007 Wheatland Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley This relatively new winery near the Wheatland Ferry along the Willamette River in Yamhill County has come out of the gates with a stunning Riesling.

Winemaker Jason Silva has crafted a wine with aromas of white pepper, apples and spices from a hint of botrytis. On the palate are luscious flavors of orchard fruit and bright, mouth-watering acidity. The 2.7% residual sugar barely shows up. Pair with scallops, crab or halibut. (11.5% alc., 95 cases) Best Buy!

Hogue Cellars $10 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley For more than 20 years, this wine has been the bread and butter of Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Wash.

The winemaking team, led by Co Dinn, blended 11% Gewürztraminer into this Riesling, providing some of the underlying complexity.

It shows off aromas of honeysuckle, minerality and apricots, followed by a bushel of fresh fruit flavors, including peaches, apples and sweet Meyer lemons. Bright acidity balances the 1.75% residual sugar and leads to a memorable finish. Pair with everything from curries to seafood. (11.8% alc., 69,000 cases) Love & Squalor $18 2007 Eola Hills Vineyard Riesling, Willamette Valley Matt Berson, assistant winemaker for Ransom Wine Co. in Portland, runs this label on the side. This is his second

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release, and it’s a doozy, thanks to minerally aromas of river rock and slate alongside zesty notes of lemons, crisp apples and herbs. The palate is loaded with bold, luscious acidity (would you believe 2.83 pH?) balanced with a bit of sweetness (1.8% residual sugar). This shows off tons of fruit, including sweet apples, peaches, mangoes and pears, all the way through the flinty finish. A stunning, breathtaking wine. (11.3% alc., 115 cases) Chateau Ste. Michelle $75 2006 Eroica White Riesling Ice Wine Horse Heaven Hills In 2006, a Halloween night freeze meant ice wine for Ste. Michelle. These grapes were harvested in 14degree temperatures from the Horse Heaven Vineyard near Columbia Crest, and it’s the first ice wine from the international collaboration between the Woodinville, Wash., winery and Ernst Loosen of Germany. This shows off amazing aromas of baked apples, candied oranges and white peaches, followed by round, luscious flavors of poached pears, mangoes, sweet spices, honey and apple pie. A great dessert wine. (7.5% alc., 530 cases) Pacific Rim Winemakers $19 2007 Wallula Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley In just the first vintage at its new facility behind Washington’s Red Mountain, this Randall Grahm winery is showing its prowess.

The grapes come from sustainably farmed Wallula Vineyard in the eastern Horse Heaven

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Hills, a dramatic locale on cliffs above the Columbia River. It’s a dry wine at 0.9% residual sugar and shows off aromas of lychee, nectarines, tangerines and Fuji apples, followed by bright, delicious flavors of orchard fruits. This is a clean, approachable, expertly made wine whose fruit carries through to the lengthy finish. (12.3% alc., 3,900 cases) Magnificent Wine Co. $15 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Charles Smith made his mark in the Washington wine industry with K Vintners, a Syrah house in Walla Walla. Now his Magnificent wines are setting the Northwest on fire with their low prices and high flavors. This Riesling proves the wines are more than gimmicks, thanks to aromas of orange oil, Pink Lady apples and flinty notes, followed by flavors of tangerines, fresh-cut apples, minerals and sweet tropical fruit. (13.5% alc., 2,600 cases) Pontin Del Roza $12 2007 White Riesling, Yakima Valley Scott Pontin runs this family winery, which has been a solid producer in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser since 1984. Pontin, it would seem, has a special touch with Alsatian-style whites, as he also offers a Pinot Gris that is among the Northwest’s best. This Riesling is loaded with complexity, thanks to aromas of fresh-from-the-tree apples, lychee and delicate floral notes, followed by bright, ripe, delicious flavors of tropical fruit and apples. This is definitely off-dry at 3% residual sugar, but

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it’s superbly balanced with bright acidity.

(11.7% alc., 800 cases) Silvan Ridge $18 2007 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley This Eugene, Ore., producer reached into the Prosser, Wash., area for its Riesling, using grapes from Airport Ranch Vineyards. It’s bone dry and offers aromas of peaches, apple blossoms and lychee, along with notes that reminded us of ambrosia fruit salad. On the palate are flavors of nectarines, pears and tangerines. The fruit is luscious, backed with steely acidity. We would pair this with a spicy Tex-Mex dish. (13.8% alc., 311 cases) Kiona Vineyards Winery $13 2007 Reserve Dry Riesling, Red Mountain One might not consider hot, dusty Red Mountain as the ideal location for Riesling, a cool-climate grape. Yet the Williams family has been farming this land since the ’70s and knows a bit about its character. This impresses from the first whiff, with aromas of lychee, tropical fruit, pears, nectarines and even candy.

On the palate, a line of minerality makes its way through flavors of ripe, juicy fruit. Layers of sweet herbs, lemons and quince provide underlying complexity. (13% alc., 700 cases) Evergreen Vineyards $16 2007 Spruce Goose Riesling, Willamette Valley This operation near McMinnville, Ore., is home to Howard Hughes’ wooden folly, the H-4 Hercules. Unlike the Spruce Goose —

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made with birch, by the way — this Riesling is flying high with aromas of minerals, honey, lime, apples and lychee. It’s a delicious and beautifully balanced white with flavors of apples, quince and lemons. Startling acidity balances the 1.8% residual sugar through the lengthy finish. (13% alc., 825 cases) Chehalem $24 2007 Corral Creek Riesling, Chehalem Mountains Owner Harry Peterson-Nedry continues his quixotic quest for great Riesling in the heart of Pinot Noir country — and with great success. This comes from his estate Corral Creek Vineyards, where he has 23-yearold Riesling vines planted in wind-blown loess soil not unlike Eastern Washington (though a heck of a lot cooler). This is a dandy wine with aromas of slate, apples, pears and anise, which lead to crisp flavors of orchard fruit and tons of acidity and minerality. (12% alc., 109 cases) Wild Goose Vineyards $20 CDN 2007 Stoney Slope Riesling, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Hagen Kruger is just one generation removed from his parents’ European roots, and his touch with Germanic white varieties is uncanny. Year after year, the Kruger family brings an embarrassing number of medals home to its Okanagan Falls, B.C., winery. The grapes for this wine come from 25-year-old vines adjacent to the winery. It opens with spicy aromas of vanilla, apples, lychee and even a whisper of classic petrol, followed by loads of lush fruit, including

apples, peaches and mangoes. A licorice note on the finish left us intrigued, and the amazingly steely acidity begged for scallops or curried shrimp. (13.3% alc., 500 cases) Patit Creek Cellars $16 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley This winery has been best known for Merlot in its relatively short history. It’s now under new ownership and has relocated to Walla Walla from Dayton, Wash. The changes seem agreeable, as this Riesling is a stunner. It’s a dry wine using grapes from Charbonneau Vineyard along the Snake River in Walla Walla County. It opens with aromas of fresh-cut Honeycrisp apples, followed by huge flavors of tangerines and minerals. Steely acidity provides terrific balance for a wine that will pair well with a variety of foods. (12.9% alc., 250 cases) Mercer Estates $15 2007 Riesling, Yakima Valley If you know a bit about Washington wine history, then this new winery’s instant success should not surprise you. The Hogue brothers made their name with Riesling. Five years after selling the eponymous winery, Mike Hogue still had the itch, so he launched this operation. He even lured Hogue winemaker David Forsyth away, and the result is another great Riesling. This shows off minerally, even dusty notes in the nose alongside tropical fruit and citrus zest. On the palate are deep, complex flavors of orchard and tropical fruit, all backed with mouth-watering acidity. (12.5% alc., 7,265 cases)

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Chateau Ste. Michelle $22 2007 Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley Since the first release in 1999 of this international collaboration between Washington’s oldest winery and Ernst Loosen of Germany, this wine has only gotten better as Loosen and CSM winemaker Bob Bertheau have dialed in their vineyard sources. This is, perhaps, the most famous Riesling in America, and it is consistently astonishing. This release opens with delicate aromas of apples sprinkled with cinnamon, blossoms and mangoes, followed by juicy flavors of fresh-cut apples, peaches and hints of apricots. The minerally acidity balances the somewhat sweet (2.15% residual sugar) flavors. (12% alc., 24,250 cases) Pacific Rim Winemakers $17 2007 Selenium Vineyard Vin de Glaciere Riesling, Columbia Valley Count on the incomparable Randall Grahm to come up with a name like this. You see, he can’t call it “ice wine” because the grapes were frozen postharvest, thus the fanciful title. This is a sensual — dare we say sexual — dessert wine, thanks to aromas dripping with honey-covered apricots and hints of minerality. On the palate, this wine shines, thanks to flavors of apricots and baked apples. It’s plenty sweet at 16% residual sugar, yet impressive acidity provides tremendous balance, making this more than simply a sweet, syrupy wine. Enjoy this with a plate of fruit and nuts or a cheesecake adorned with nothing more than fresh raspberries. Or from a navel. (10.5% alc., 7,000 cases)

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Best Buy!

Kiona Vineyards Winery $10 2007 Riesling, Washington Kiona’s standard bearer for Riesling is made in the classic Washington style. It shows off fresh, delicate aromas of rosewater, pears, peaches and apples, followed by delicious flavors of pears and Pink Lady apples. A fair bit of residual sweetness (2.5%) is tempered by the ample acidity. A twist of lime and hints of peppermint provide nice complexity on the finish.

(12.5% alc., 8,000 cases) Best Buy!

Hogue Cellars $10 2007 Late Harvest White Riesling, Columbia Valley One of the beauties of Riesling is the often quick turnaround time.

Take this wine, for example: Harvest finished in late October, and the wine was finished and in the bottle before New Year’s Day. This wine makes up 20% of Hogue’s total production, and it’s a dandy, thanks to aromas of apple blossoms, rosewater, peaches and honey and flavors of fresh apples and tropical fruit. Ample acidity disguises the 4.5% residual sugar, causing this wine to seem less sweet than it is. (12% alc., 122,000 cases) Icicle Ridge Winery $23 2007 Royal Ladies of the Autumn Leaves Riesling, Washington Easily the most fanciful name for a wine in our competition, this Riesling comes from a small, up-and-coming

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producer in tiny Peshastin, Wash., near Leavenworth. This shows off classic aromas of minerality, white peaches, lychee and passion fruit, followed by bright, bold flavors of ripe orchard fruits. It’s a rich wine with bold, mouth-watering acidity. (12.2% alc., 500 cases) Best Buy!

Bridgeview Winery $9 2006 Blue Moon Riesling, Oregon Bridgeview, one of Oregon’s largest wineries — and surely its biggest Riesling producer — has been crafting this off-dry Riesling in a popular blue bottle for several years. It’s a luscious wine from start to finish and offers enticing aromas of fresh apples, apricots, spices, vanilla and minerality. On the palate are fruit-laden flavors of peaches and apples with hints of citrus around the edges. Solid acidity balances the 1.5% residual sugar. (12% alc., 40,000 cases) Chateau Ste. Michelle $18 2007 Indian Wells Riesling, Columbia Valley Indian Wells is a vineyard on Washington’s Wahluke Slope, a 13-mile-wide bench north of the Yakima Valley. This wine includes grapes from throughout that region, and its name honors the longtime relationship with that vineyard. One of the smaller lots of Riesling for Chateau Ste. Michelle, this is a consistent gold medal winner vintage after vintage. This new release provides aromas of lychee, oranges, rosewater and passion fruit, followed by flavors of limes, peaches and apples. The sweetness

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(3.7% residual sugar) is tempered by impressive acidity, giving this wine the ability to pair with curries, Thai dishes or spicy Mexican fare.

(11.5% alc., 6,500 cases) Pacific Rim Winemakers $11 2007 Sweet Riesling, Columbia Valley The label leaves little doubt what kind of Riesling this is. With its 6.5% residual sugar and low 9% alcohol, this is a delicious white wine to be enjoyed all summer long. It opens with aromas of fresh apples, lychee, spices, oranges and something that reminded us of a mountain meadow after a spring rain. On the palate are lush flavors of ripe oranges, peaches and apricots. It has plenty of acidity to prop up the sweetness. (9% alc., 36,000 cases) Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 God’s Mountain Vineyard Riesling, Okanagan Valley South of Penticton, B.C., on a cliff overlooking Skaha Lake is an eclectic B&B called God’s Mountain Chalet. In addition to the accommodations and stunning views is a vineyard, which the boys at Wild Goose take full advantage of. This is a stunning white with aromas of lime, clover honey, lychee and traces of minerality, followed by flavors of grapefruits, Fuji and Gala apples and hints of licorice on the finish. Its steely acidity is tempered with 1.5% residual sugar. (12.8% alc., 500 cases) Woodward Canyon Winery $25 2007 Dry White Riesling, Columbia Valley Since launching his iconic operation in 1981, Rick Small has gained most of his reputation with world-class Cabs and blends. Yet he also has built a following with various white wines, including Riesling. His source for this dry wine is DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley.

It opens with aromas of tangerines, tropical fruit and a twist of lemon, followed by clean, slatelike flavors that include peaches and apples. Great acidity delicately balances the flavors, providing abundant food pairings.

(14.1% alc., 267 cases) Poet’s Leap $20 2006 Riesling, Columbia Valley After leaving Ste. Michelle — where he got the Eroica project launched — Allen Shoup started Long Shadows, a winemaking operation built on the premise of bring the world’s top winemakers to Washington. Armin Diel, owner of one of the elite Riesling producers in Germany, is the winemaking partner for Riesling, and Poet’s Leap has quickly gained fame. In fact, under blind tasting conditions, our judges picked this out as Germanic in style, thanks to its aromas and flavors of slate, Granny Smith and Honeycrisp apples and even a hint of petrol. A delicious and dry wine that lives up to its reputation. (12.9% alc., 1,879 cases) Hogue Cellars $18 2007 Genesis Riesling, Columbia Valley Hogue’s highest-priced Riesling — part of its

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Genesis line — rounds out the Prosser, Wash., winery’s line of great Rieslings. This is, by far, the smallest-production Riesling made by the behemoth winery, and it takes advantage of grapes from the relatively cooler Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of minerals and orchard fruit, followed by bright, bold flavors of fresh-off-the-tree apples and pears with hints of oranges. The ample acidity balances the residual sugar (1.6%), giving this plenty of length. (13% alc., 4,130 cases)

EXCELLENT See Ya Later Ranch $17 CDN 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley The winery formerly known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards pays tribute to the ranch owner who once lived on the property and his beloved dogs. This superb Riesling reveals aromas of fresh peaches, white pepper, citrus oils and minerals, followed by flavors of lush fruit, including peaches, apples and apricots.

Would pair beautifully with pasta tossed with grilled sausage. (13.5% alc., 4,700 cases) Vitis Ridge $12 2007 Riesling, Willamette Valley This is a label for Silverton Cellars, a winery northeast of Salem, Ore., using grapes from the estate Meridian Vineyard. It shows off delicate “come-hither” aromas of peaches, honeydew, nectarines and lychee, along with juicy flavors of apples and citrus. The 2.6% residual sugar brings out the fruit, yet the underlying acidity balances the sweetness. (12% alc., 168 cases) Brandborg Vineyard and Winery $16 2007 Riesling, Umpqua Valley California escapee Terry Brandborg took advantage of luscious and ripe grapes from Bradley Vineyard in tiny Elkton, a town in the northern Umpqua Valley. It opens with aromas of ripe peaches, oranges and a hint of river rock, followed by clean, stony flavors of minerals, apples and pineapples. (13.1% alc., 354 cases)

winemaker for Maysara in the McMinnville AVA. The 38-year-old died of a heart attack just before harvest in 2004, but his legacy lives on, thanks to friends and family. This beautiful dessert wine reveals aromas of honey, apricots and raspberry lemonade, followed by luscious flavors of baked apples and honey, yet it has ample acidity to prop up the 13.4% residual sugar. (10.1% alc., 90 cases) Best Buy!

Chateau Ste. Michelle $10 2007 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley This wine, known affectionately around the Woodinville, Wash., winery as “Baby Eroica,” won best white wine this spring at the prestigious Riverside International Wine Competition in Southern California. It’s easy to see why it’s so well liked, as it shows off aromas of apples, tropical fruit and slate, followed by clean, bright flavors of Granny Smith apples and lychee. (13% alc., 37,000 cases) Best Buy!

Montinore Estate $10 2007 Almost Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley This longtime northern Willamette Valley winery consistently produces delicious and affordable wines. Alas, it’s often overlooked amid the hundreds of Oregon wineries. This slightly off-dry (1.1% residual sugar) Riesling opens with aromas of fresh-cut Golden Delicious apples and a whiff of Nellie & Joe’s Famous Key Lime juice. On the palate are stylish flavors of Granny Smith apples and oranges, all backed with racy acidity. Pair with curried chicken. (12% alc., 3,826 cases) Montinore Estate $12 2007 Estate Reserve Riesling, Willamette Valley The Marchesi family has operated this Forest Grove, Ore., winery since 1982 and relies on its 265 acres of estate grapes. This luscious Riesling shows off aromas of mangoes, apricots and white pepper, followed by bright flavors of sweet lemons and apples. Its steely acidity provides plenty of backbone and broad food applications. (12% alc., 54 cases)

Anam Cara Cellars $22 2007 Nicholas Estate Riesling, Chehalem Mountains Nick and Sheila Nicholas prove our high rating in the Spring issue for their Pinot Noir was no fluke, following up with a classy and luscious Riesling. This is the third harvest from young vines in the Chehalem Mountains AVA and opens with aromas of apple blossoms, honey, lime and flinty notes.

On the palate are delicate flavors of flowers and traces of steely lemon notes. A perfect wine to pair with oysters. (11.9% alc., 200 cases)

Three Rivers Winery $19 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Best known for her powerful reds, winemaker Holly Turner also crafts several delicious white wines, including this Riesling. She selected fruit from Willard Farms in the Yakima Valley and Sagemoor in the Columbia Valley, blending in 23% Sauvignon Blanc for complexity.

The resulting wine reveals aromas of honeysuckle and Honeycrisp apples, followed by delicious flavors of fresh-off-the-tree apples and beautiful balance. (11% alc., 650 cases)

Brooks Wines $25 2005 Tethys Late Harvest Riesling, Willamette Valley Jimi Brooks launched his eponymous winery in 1998, two years after he started working for WillaKenzie Estate as assistant winemaker. Brooks also served as

Martin-Scott Winery $12 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley This small producer near East Wenatchee, Wash., relies on grapes from its own vineyard as well as fruit from the Wahluke Slope. Winemaker Mike Scott has crafted a beautiful Riesling

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riesling with aromas of smoky flint, oranges and honeysuckle, followed by gorgeous flavors loaded with notes of mangoes, peaches, oranges and apricots. Its acidity balances the 4.5% residual sugar. (10.1% alc., 92 cases) Kiona Vineyards Winery $15 2007 Late Harvest White Riesling, Yakima Valley Long a favorite with customers of this pioneer Red Mountain winery, this luscious and sweet Riesling delivers with aromas of apple blossoms and rich flavors that include honey, lime, tart pineapples and citrus. It’s amazingly tasty, and the 9% residual sugar is backed up with ample acidity. (10% alc., 750 cases) Lawton Winery $18 2007 Riesling, Chehalem Mountains This winery near Newberg, Ore., planted its Riesling vines in 1987 and opened its winery 11 years later. This Riesling offers delicate aromas of floral notes, spices, minerality and pineapples, followed by juicy flavors of apples and other orchard fruit. The sweet entry shows off the 2.2% residual sugar, yet the acidity balances everything from the midpalate through the ample finish. (11.5% alc., 95 cases) Mt. Hood Winery $18 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Steve Bickford has crafted a beautifully balanced Riesling in his Hood River, Ore., winery. This opens with clean, minerally aromas, followed by flavors of fresh-cut apples. The 2.37% residual sugar is backed by bright acidity to create a wine with depth and breadth.

It’s easy to imagine sipping this on a warm summer day. (12% alc., 175 cases) August Cellars $14 2007 Riesling, Washington The Schaad family began farming land near Newberg, Ore., during World War II and continues to farm wine grapes, walnuts and Italian prunes.

The winery name honors August Schaad, who emigrated from Germany in the late 19th century. The grapes for this wine came from north of the Columbia River and show off aromas of apple blossoms, lychee and even bananas, followed by luscious, mouth-watering flavors of oranges, mangoes and sweet apples. (12% alc., 300 cases) Waterbrook Winery $12 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley One of the Walla Walla Valley’s oldest and largest wineries also is one of the few that focus a lot of attention on white wines. This wine shows off aromas of apples, minerals, citrus and a hint of petrol, followed by yummy flavors of Granny Smith and Fuji apples, along with peaches and limes. The 1.77% residual sugar helps bring out the luscious fruit flavors. (11% alc., 6,010 cases) Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Hagen Kruger’s largest-production Riesling is

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off-dry with 2% residual sugar, though you’d hardly notice with Wild Goose’s typically bright acidity. This delicious sipper opens with aromas of lychee, orange blossoms, sweet spices and limes, followed by round, luscious flavors of oranges, apples, apricots and sweet lemons. (12.7% alc., 1,000 cases) Dunham Cellars $26 2007 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Best known for his Cabs, Syrahs and blends, winemaker Eric Dunham has a deep love for Rieslings, too. Our reigning Northwest Winery of the Year relies on fruit from its favorite vineyard for this wine, which shows off aromas of mineral dust, apples and orange blossoms and flavors of orange juice, tart apples and hints of anise. Thanks to bright acidity, we’d never guess it had 2.4% residual sugar. (13.4% alc., 529 cases) Amity Vineyards $17 2006 Wedding Dance Riesling, Willamette Valley While you might well want to serve this at a wedding, this wine from longtime winemaker Myron Redford takes its name from the Wedding Dance iris, a flower cultivated exclusively at a Salem, Ore., nursery.

This intriguing wine opens with aromas of apples, spices, sweet herbs and petrol, followed by flavors of gooseberries and citrus.

Its 4.6% residual sugar is well balanced with ample acidity. (11.2% alc., 533 cases) Best Buy!

Hinman Vineyards $10 2006 Riesling, Washington/Oregon This longtime Oregon label is made by Silvan Ridge in Eugene. This vintage relies on grapes from both sides of the Columbia River, with 54% coming from Washington vineyards. A dab of Müller-Thurgau (8%) provides complexity. It opens with aromas of minerals, lychee, peaches and lemons, followed by flavors loaded with orchard and citrus fruit. A delicious and well-balanced wine. (12% alc., 3,263 cases) Lazy River Vineyard $18 2006 Private Lumpkin Riesling, YamhillCarlton District The Lumpkin family operates this young producer near the berg of Yamhill, Ore. It has planted 5 acres of Riesling, of which nearly 2 are in production.

This dry wine offers stony, flinty characteristics, with aromas of peaches, limes and quince. On the palate are flavors of apricots, tart apples and minerals. It’s a bold, clean, steely wine that would pair well with crab, scallops or pasta with a white sauce. (12.8% alc., 225 cases) next: $12 2006 Riesling, Washington This new label for King Estate near Eugene, Ore., uses grapes from Washington for this particular Riesling (it also makes one from Oregon, though we didn’t try it). It provides aromas of river rock, quince, limes and apples, followed

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

by juicy flavors of ripe apples, white peaches and minerals. (13% alc., 2,065 cases) Tildio Winery $15 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley The husband-wife team of Milum and Katy Perry continue to live the dream of the good life, as they manage their small winery and vineyard near Manson, Wash., producing some of the finest wines in the state. This delightful Riesling opens with aromas of dusty apples, spices and lychee, followed by lush flavors of ripe mangoes, Fuji apples, peaches and apricots. It’s fairly dry at 1.35% residual sugar.

(12.7% alc., 183 cases) Milbrandt Vineyards $13 2006 Traditions Riesling, Washington This is the first vintage for the Milbrandt brothers, who have planted some of the most significant vineyards on Washington’s Wahluke Slope. With their winemaking facility near Mattawa and a new tasting room in Prosser, Milbrandt is taking off. This Riesling offers aromas of apples and limes, followed by delicious flavors of papayas and mangoes. (12.5% alc., 7,500 cases) CedarCreek Estate Winery $18 CDN 2007 Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley American ex-pat Tom Di Bello crafts some of British Columbia’s finest wines at this Kelowna operation. This Riesling offers aromas of apple blossoms, pears and a slice of lemon, followed by flavors that lean toward oranges, peaches and a lemon-lime finish.

(13.4% alc., 1,044 cases) Chateau Ste. Michelle $14 2007 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Ste. Michelle’s oldest vineyard is best known for Cab and Chardonnay, but it also has a lot of Riesling, which winemaker Bob Bertheau loves. He made this wine somewhat sweet at 3.21% residual sugar, but it also has tremendous balance of fruit and acidity, showing off peaches, apples, oranges and limes. (12% alc., 4,500 cases) Best Buy!

Columbia Crest $8 2006 Two Vines Riesling, Columbia Valley Not all the Riesling in Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is made in Woodinville, as this large-lot wine proves. Winemaker Ray Einberger and crew in Paterson, Wash., have crafted a wine with gorgeous aromas of dusty apples, apricots and honey, followed by flavors of sweet limes and tropical fruit. This was left fairly sweet at 3.51% residual sugar, but that’s balanced with loads of bracing acidity. Enjoy with a plate of kung pau chicken. (11.5% alc., 101,000 cases) Best Buy!

Snoqualmie Vineyards $10 2007 Winemaker’s Select Riesling, Columbia Valley This sweeter (6.5% residual sugar) Riesling has quickly gained a following with consumers who enjoy refreshing whites on

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warm summer evenings. This release shows off delicate aromas of apple blossoms, fresh-cut melon and a hint of honey, followed by well-balanced and ripe fruit. (10.2% alc., 9,000 cases) Chehalem $21 2007 Reserve Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley When Harry Peterson-Nedry started his winery in 1980, Riesling made up 23% of the state’s white wines. Today, it’s 3%, but if he has any say, Riesling will rise again. This reservelevel wine offers aromas of minerals, tangerines and spiced apple cider, followed by bright, even dusty flavors of slate alongside oranges dusted with cinnamon. (12.7% alc., 619 cases) Lemelson Vineyards $20 2006 Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley Winemaker Eric Lemelson has made his mark in Oregon with Pinot Noir, yet he shows his versatility with this fairly dry (1.2% residual sugar) Riesling. It opens with aromas of white pepper, peaches and minerality, followed by luscious flavors of apples, citrus, quince and sweet peaches. (11.8% alc., 558 cases) Best Buy!

Barnard Griffin $8 2007 White Riesling, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin has been making wine in Washington for as long as anyone, showing up at Preston near Pasco in 1977. He’s seen Riesling rise and fall in popularity — then rise again. This luscious example is loaded with aromas of tangerines, dried pineapples and apricots, followed by flavors of fresh-cut apples and oranges. (11.7% alc., 3,000 cases) Flying Fish $13 2007 Riesling, Washington Click Wine Group of Seattle has added Riesling to its line-up. Winemaker Gordy Hill put this wine together using Columbia Valley grapes. It shows off aromas of apples, oranges and grapefruits, followed by flavors of peaches, limes and apricots. (12% alc., 7,800 cases) Viento Wines $15 2006 Columbia Gorge Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Gorge Rich Cushman has been making Northwest wine for a couple of decades. He has a deep interest in grapes grown in and around the Hood River, Ore., area. This Riesling is loaded with fruit, from the aromas of fresh nectarines and oranges to the flavors of apples with notes of peaches and limes. (10.7% alc., 345 cases)

this a real treat. Enjoy in a hot tub, swimsuit optional. (12.3% alc., 39,000 cases) Claar Cellars $13 2007 White Bluffs Riesling, Columbia Valley The Whitelatch family has been farming on the White Bluffs above the Columbia River for decades. The focus of Claar Cellars has been Riesling since the winery launched in 1997. This is off-dry with 4.4% residual sugar, and it shows off aromas of limes, lychee and tropical fruits, followed by flavors of slate and glaceed apricots. (12% alc., 900 cases) Amity Vineyards $18 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley This longtime producer blended Riesling grapes from its estate vineyards and Sunnyside Vineyards near Salem. The result is a luscious white with aromas of petrol and spiced apples, followed by flavors of white peaches, apples, limes and a note of basil on the finish. It is off-dry at 1.48% residual sugar, but the pH of 2.94 helps it seem much more dry. (12.1% alc., 399 cases) Best Buy!

Airlie Winery $10 2005 Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley One of the oldest wines in our competition comes from this Monmouth, Ore., winery.

Winemaker Elizabeth Clark has crafted a sophisticated Riesling similar to dry Australian versions. It opens with aromas of Granny Smith apples, followed by flavors of quince and apples. (11.1% alc., 484 cases) Gamache Vintners $18 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Longtime Columbia Basin farmers Roger and Bob Gamache made the successful transition to winery owners in 2002. Riesling is a new variety for the winery and was crafted by longtime Washington winemaker Gordy Hill. It opens with aromas of peaches, oranges and limes, followed by bright orchard and citrus flavors.

(12.5% alc., 400 cases) Nefarious Cellars $18 2007 Stone’s Throw Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Dean and Heather Neff planted their vineyard in Pateros, Wash., in 1998. In 2004, they bought property in Chelan and launched Nefarious Cellars. Heather handles the white winemaking, and this Riesling provides classic aromas and flavors of freshcut apples and ripe pears. (13% alc., 220 cases)

Best Buy!

Snoqualmie Vineyards $8 2007 Naked Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Joy Andersen has been producing the “Naked” line of wines for a few years now.

The focus is on grapes grown organically, and the production for the Naked Riesling has reached an all-time high. It’s an off-dry wine with 2.8% residual sugar, yet the sweetness is tempered by bright acidity. Aromas and flavors of Fuji apples, limes and peaches make

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Best Buy!

Sawtooth Winery $8 2006 Riesling, Idaho The Snake River Valley’s high-elevation vineyards and volcanic soils are just about perfect for Riesling. This charming wine shows off gravelly notes in the nose alongside aromas of dried pineapples. Flavors of apples, orange oil and ripe pears lead to a long, satisfying finish. A delicious cocktail or brunch wine. (12.3% alc., 3,300 cases)

Naches Heights Vineyard $18 2007 Riesling, Columbia Valley Phil Cline runs this exciting operation near Yakima, Wash., and winemaker Jean Claude Beck has crafted a dry Riesling that is loaded with fruit. It opens with aromas of spicy apples, peaches and mineral notes, followed by lush flavors of apples, apricots and limes. (13.2% alc., 200 cases) Steppe Cellars $18 2006 Dry Riesling, Rattlesnake Hills This wine’s dry style allows the fruit to shine, starting with aromas of apples, pears and peaches, followed by flavors of peaches, oranges and limes. A clean minerality defines the structure of this wine, making it a perfect foil for clam chowder. (13% alc., 240 cases) Jones of Washington $15 2006 Riesling, Wahluke Slope The Jones family launched its winery a couple of years ago, locating the operation in the Columbia Basin town of Quincy. This dry Riesling opens with aromas of apricots, rose petals and peaches, followed by flavors that include ripe peaches and a hint of vanilla. (12.5% alc., 400 cases) Claar Cellars $16 2007 White Bluffs Late Harvest Riesling, Columbia Valley Claar’s dessert Riesling is a honey of a wine at 9.5% residual sugar. It opens with aromas of sweet spices and oranges, followed by flavors of peaches, oranges and cinnamon. (11.5% alc., 247 cases) David Hill Vineyards & Winery $12 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley This Forest Grove, Ore., winery owns perhaps the oldest Riesling vineyard in the Pacific Northwest, as these vines were planted in 1965. This reveals aromas of fresh orchard fruit, oranges and jicama. On the palate are flavors of ripe apples, nectarines and limes. The 2.4% residual sugar barely registers, thanks to the terrific acidity. (12.4% alc., 466 cases) San Juan Vineyards $15 2007 Riesling, Yakima Valley The grapes for this Riesling come from Smasne Family Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, providing aromas of honey, apple blossoms and slate. On the palate are terrific flavors of minerals, freshcut apples and limes. (13.7% alc., 202 cases)

RECOMMENDED Honeywood Winery $14 2006 White Riesling, Willamette Valley Oregon’s oldest winery has crafted a delicious, off-dry (3.5% residual sugar) Riesling with delicate aromas of apple blossoms and well-balanced flavors of apples and ripe pears.

(11% alc., 840 cases) Five H $12 2006 White Riesling, Columbia Valley Three decades ago, Doyle Hinman started

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riesling Hinman Vineyards. After years of working for other wineries in Western Oregon, Doyle and his family have launched this Riesling-only winery. He employed a method called “sussreserve” in this wine, in which unfermented Riesling juice is added to the finished wine.

The result is a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of apples, blossoms and spices.

(11.5% alc., 1,545 cases)

pair well with shellfish. (13.2% alc., 100 cases)

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Namaste Vineyards $18 2006 Tranquility Vineyard Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley The fifth release of Riesling from this Dallas, Ore., winery is a dandy, thanks to aromas and flavors of Fujis, lychee and sweet spices. (12.5% alc., 279 cases)

Cave B Estate Winery $22 2007 Cave B Vineyards Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Freddy Arredondo has crafted an off-dry Riesling with aromas and flavors of sweet apples and juicy pears. If you time your visit to the winery, you may be able enjoy a glass of this while hearing music performed at the Gorge Amphitheater.

(12.6% alc., 247 cases)

Henry Estate $12 2006 Select Harvest White Riesling, Umpqua Valley Southern Oregon producer Henry Estate left a bit of sweetness (3.5% residual sugar) on this alluring Riesling, which provides aromas and flavors of ripe apples and luscious peaches. (10.5% alc., 913 cases)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $23 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley This young winery in McMinnville didn’t go far for its Riesling grapes: Hyland Vineyard in the nearby McMinnville AVA. This reveals Germanic petrol notes along with bright apple notes. (12.2% alc., 216 cases)

Illahe Vineyards $18 2007 Riesling, Willamette Valley Longtime grape grower Lowell Ford runs this vineyard and winery in Dallas, Ore. This Riesling provides aromas and flavors of minerals, apples and pears. It shows off bright acidity alongside 1.5% residual sugar. (12.5% alc., 60 cases)

Joie Wines $21 CDN 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley Former restaurateurs Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn moved to the Naramata Bench and have crafted a wine that shines in context, which in this case would be a plate of seared scallops. This is a fairly spicy Riesling, with aromas and flavors of Granny Smith apples and sweet lemons. (11% alc., 672 cases)

Brooks Wines $25 2006 Ara Riesling, Willamette Valley Grapes for this wine came from four vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley. The resulting wine shows off intriguing dusty mineral notes and racy flavors of tart apples.

(13.1% alc., 291 cases)

Gray Monk Estate Winery $16 CDN 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley Our reigning B.C. Winery of the Year crafts luscious white wines. This wine shows off the telltale steeliness of Okanagan Valley whites with bright green apple and underlying herbal notes. (12.4% alc., 1,400 cases)

Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery $15 CDN 2006 Estate Collection Riesling, British Columbia These grapes came from near the town of Cawston in the little-known Similkameen Valley and offer aromas and flavors of fresh peaches and mangoes. (13% alc., 700 cases)

Vitae Springs Vineyard $20 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley Earl and Pam VanVolkinburg gained a deep appreciation for Riesling while stationed in the Mosel while serving in the U.S. Air Force. Today, they are fulfilling their dream at their vineyard near Salem, Ore. This shows off aromas and flavors of fresh-cut apples and peaches with bright acidity and good length. (11.5% alc., 125 cases)

Methven Family Vineyards $20 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley The Methven family farms its estate vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills, where these grapes came from. It offers clean, minerally notes on the aromas and lush apple flavors. (13% alc., 248 cases)

Carpenter Creek Winery $13 2007 Signature Series Riesling, Washington Jeff Hammer launched this Skagit Valley winery with a focus on European-style wines. This well-balanced Riesling opens with aromas of apples, melon and white pepper, followed by flavors of apples and hints of tropical fruit. (11.2% alc., 520 cases)

Columbia Crest $11 2006 Grand Estates Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ray Einberger brought the grapes for this wine in early, just after Labor Day, then crafted a wine loaded with aromas and flavors of apples. (12% alc., 12,500 cases) Willamette Valley Vineyards $12 2007 Riesling, Willamette Valley A cool vintage in Western Oregon meant lengthy hang time for these grapes. It’s a spicy wine with aromas and flavors of sweet, fresh apples and bright acidity. (10% alc., 23,500 cases) Carpenter Creek Winery $17 2007 Dry Riesling, Washington This Riesling from a Western Washington winery reveals intriguing aromas of minerals and late and flavors of bright, crisp Granny Smith apples. This offers terrific acidity and should

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Wind River Cellars $15 2006 Silvertooth Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Gorge This wine comes from estate grapes in between Mount Adams and Mount Hood, and it shows off aromas and flavors of orange blossoms, apples, peaches and mangoes. A delicious wine with good balance.

(11% alc., 520 cases) Troon Vineyard $18 2007 River Guide White, Applegate Valley This new release from a Southern Oregon producer is primarily Riesling with a bit of Gewürztraminer and Viognier blended in. It offers aromas and flavors of peaches and apples with bright acidity. (10.5% alc., 724 cases) Two Mountain Winery $15 2007 Riesling, Rattlesnake Hills This fairly new producer in the western Yakima Valley town of Zillah has gotten into the habit of crafting delicious wines. This Riesling offers aromas and flavors of minerals and fresh peaches. (13% alc., 255 cases)

La Frenz Winery $19 CDN 2007 Small Lots Riesling, Okanagan Valley Aussie native Jeff Martin has built a reputation as one of British Columbia’s best and most innovative winemakers. This Riesling came from 30-year-old vines on the Naramata Bench and Mount Boucherie and offers spicy aromas of apples and candied ginger. (11% alc., 250 cases) Wine Country Farm Cellars $15 2006 Riesling, Dundee Hills Joan Davenport runs a bed and breakfast high in the hills above Dayton, Ore., in Yamhill County. Grapes from her estate vineyard go into her wines. This reveals aromas of sweet spices and flavors of Red Delicious apples.

(12.1% alc., 160 cases) Argyle Winery $25 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley Winemaker Rollin Soles has a passion for Riesling, which he feels has a bright future in the Willamette Valley. This reveals aromas of minerals and vanilla bean and clean, bright flavors of fresh apples and pears. (13% alc., 635 cases) Capstone Cellars $12 2007 Riesling, Yakima Valley Winemaker Roy Bays brings grapes from the Yakima Valley to his Longview, Wash., winery, often from the state’s finest vineyards. This Riesling shows a bit of sweetness and fresh fruit, including aromas and flavors of apples and peaches.

(10.8% alc., 125 cases) ı ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON, a freelance photojournalist, is a regular

contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site: WineCountryCreations.com

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Rolling fields of grapes?

BY J A N A L I E N PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

T

he Palouse region of southeastern Washington and Idaho has long been known for its rolling fields of wheat and lentils, rival university towns and unforgettable sunsets.

Now, winemakers strive to make a name for its budding wine culture.

Echoing the Northwest wine industry’s growth, four wineries have opened their doors in the region since 2004, joining the region’s pioneer — Camas Prairie Winery of Moscow, Idaho.

Amid the buzz, locals are enjoying new tasting rooms and wine bars that now dot the region.

With its unique combination of

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agrarian and academic expertise, this four-city region is positioned to become one of the Northwest’s newest wine destinations.

“With the five wineries here and the consumer’s increased interest in wine, I think it’s a great time for everyone to be doing what they’re doing,” said Patrick Merry of Merry Cellars Winery in Pullman, Wash.

About 30 miles south is the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley. It’s significantly downhill. The elevation drops by 1,600 feet, and temperatures are an average of 7 degrees warmer.

This combination explains why it was home to a thriving grape-growing and wine-producing region more

than a century ago.

More than 40 grape varieties were planted, but the wine industry withered under Prohibition.

Fortunately, this new influx of winemakers is returning the valley’s lands to their once-prolific roots.

One could call it a case of “the more the merrier.”

M E R RY C E L L A R S P U L L M A N , WA S H .

THIS 2,400-CASE OPERATION IS affixed in the historic, marblefloored Old Post Office building in downtown Pullman.

A native of Montana, Patrick Merry broke from family roots in the hydraulics industry to enroll in Washington State University’s graduate program in computer science.

Meanwhile, his love for winemaking outgrew its hobby status, so he decided to take time off from his studies to complete WSU’s enology program.

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His first commercial vintage was 2004, and he continues to dabble in home beer brewing.

“I’ve decided that I’m not going to start any new hobbies,” he said with a smile, “because the last one I started ended up here.”

His interpretation of a 2005 Carménère, crafted with fruit from the Seven Hills Vineyard, created a fan base for this obscure Bordeaux variety.

“I feel that people are looking for something a little different, and Carménère certainly is nothing, if not that,” he said.

To meet his customers’ demand, Merry tripled production of the variety during the past three vintages.

He’s also shown savvy with vineyard-designate releases of Merlot and Semillon from Stillwater Creek Vineyards in the Frenchman Hills near Royal City, Wash. Fruit from Pepper Bridge and Les Collines in the

Walla Walla Valley goes into a red blend Merry coined as “Crimson,” a tribute to one of WSU’s school colors.

Summer is the height of wine tasting season, and it’s also when the Palouse becomes awash in vibrant shades of green and gold, making it an ideal time for alumni to rediscover the beauty of their former stomping grounds.

“It’s not what they remember,” Merry said. “There’s a lot to do here, in addition to the wine experience.

We have a lot of good restaurants, art galleries and artisan shops and wonderful tourism activities — Hells Canyon is just south of the valley — and an afternoon drive through the Palouse is quite nice.”

C A M A S P R A I R I E W I N E RY M O S C O W, I D A H O

STU SCOTT, THE PATRIARCH OF Palouse winemakers, taught business classes at the University of Idaho for several years, so he knows

that more wineries will mean more wine tourism.

“It’s been very difficult,” Scott said. “Nobody comes to Moscow, Idaho, for the wine. Now they get here, and it’s a pleasant surprise to find there is a local winery and a good local winery, so that’s nice.

“But we’re now trying to develop the wine industry in this region. We now have a total of five. Now five’s not quite enough, but if we had 10 wineries, we could be a wine destination.”

His 2,300-case production includes award-winning sparkling wines, gold-medal meads, delicious fruit wines and unbelievably inexpensive Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Lemberger from Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills.

Scott began making wine in Moscow in 1983. His history of success and consistency earned him

Much of the Palouse region is planted with wheat, but some farmers are now planting grapes instead.

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Patrick Merry, left, and his assistant winemaker, Shane Moore, of Merry Cellars Winery in Pullman, Wash., are happy about the growing interest in wine from the Palouse region.

Wine Press Northwest’s 2007 Idaho Winery of the Year.

He points out the five Palouse-area wineries support each other with their knowledge, skills and equipment.

Together, they enjoy the increasing support of local residents and restaurants.

“You have, right now, all small producers that are in the business because they love what they’re doing, and it shows in the wines,” he said.

Each step of the winemaking process will continue to be performed by themselves for many years. Scott said those qualities help make the Palouse wine experience a pleasant change of pace.

“Wine can be done at the artisan level or at the production level,” he said. “Coming to the Palouse, on the other hand, you’re going to interact, in an awful lot of cases, with the winemaker. And I think that adds a lot of value.”

B A S A LT C E L L A R S C L A R K S T O N , WA S H .

RICK WASEM AND PARTNER LYNN DEVLEMING BELIEVE in the future of local fruit.

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An antique wine press adorns the cellar at Camas Prairie Winery in Moscow, Idaho.

“There are a lot of people in the planning stages as well as a couple of vineyards already in the valley, but we’d like to see more people planting vineyards,” Wasem said.

Wasem, DeVleming, and three partners met at the 2002 Grape Symposium — a joint WSU Master Gardeners/Walla Walla Community College symposium staged in Clarkston. Soon after, they founded Clarkston’s first winery.

Today, Basalt Cellars has grown into a 1,500-case winery on the banks of the Snake River.

Their 2005 Perimeter Red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Champoux and Milbrandt vineyards, Cab Franc from Sagemoor, Merlot off Pepper Bridge and Wasem’s vineyard in Clarkston, with a touch of Petit Verdot via Elerding Vineyard. Their 2005 Verhey Vineyard Malbec recently medaled at the Seattle Wine Awards.

Only recently did Wasem discover that winemaking and grape growing has been a part of his family tree for 200 years.

“I think there’s something in my blood that’s driven

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Sixteen-year-old Hans Hansen punches down grapes at Clearwater Canyon Cellars in Lewiston, Idaho.

Bottles of wine line one of the walls at Wawawai Canyon Winery in Pullman, Wash.

me to this industry,” he said.

DeVleming, though, hasn’t always shared his passion.

“I picked grapes in France when I was 21,” she said. “I was broke and I hated wine.”

“They paid us $15 a day plus two liters of wine, but I never took the wine because I didn’t like it,” she explained, laughing. “I didn’t start liking wine until I was in my 40s — and it became a passion at 40 — so I’m a late bloomer.”

WAWAWA I C A N Y O N W I N E RY P U L L M A N , WA S H .

PULLMAN NATIVE BEN MOFFETT SAW POTENTIAL IN his family’s Wawawai Canyon Vineyard in the hills above the Snake River, so he began crafting his own wine.

“It was hard at first because our fruit from the canyon was very big, acidic and tannic, and tended to take a lot of aging,” he noted.

While attending the Viticulture and Enology program at Walla Walla Community College, he met partner Christine Havens, who was a sculptor at the Walla Walla Foundry until the bottom dropped out of the art

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F E AT U R E

Rick Wasem pours wine at Basalt Cellars in Clarkston, Wash.

market following 9/11.

Her touch with orchids shows in the winery’s art-filled tasting room. They strive to craft their 600 cases to be different from big, jammy profile and vineyard-designate, single-variety reds.

“There’s a part of me that likes something a little less obvious, a little more subtle, so we really go for notes of cedar and earthiness,” Havens said. “I think there’s something seductive about a blended wine. This year was really fun because we brought in several small lots — a ton of Carménère, Malbec and a couple of tons of Barbera — so we really like to play.”

This spring, Wawawai Canyon released a 2006 Walla Walla Valley Sangiovese, as well as 2005 Vintners Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from the Columbia Valley, and a new blend — Volare — that takes Roussanne and Viognier from Snipes Canyon in the Yakima Valley.

They debuted their first estate wine — a Sauvignon Blanc.

At this point, Havens designs all of Wawawai Canyon’s labels. She does plan to produce “artist series” labels,

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QUICK FACTS S U M M E R TA S T I N G ROOM HOURS

Nectar restaurant in Moscow, Idaho, focuses its menu on local ingredients and regional wines.

which will showcase the work of Palouse artists on their small-lot, limited-release wines.

“It’s more than just, ‘I’m a producer, you’re a consumer,’ ” Moffett said. “For us, it’s much more relationship-based.”

C L E A RWAT E R C A N Y O N C E L L A R S LEWISTON, IDAHO

WINEMAKER COCO UMIKER AND HER PARTNERS AT Clearwater Canyon Cellars welcome the area’s new embrace of wine and vineyards.

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Basalt Cellars, Clarkston, Wash: Wednesday-Saturdays, noon - 5 p.m. www.basaltcellars.com.

Beamer’s Hell’s Canyon Boat Tours depart from a dock just a few hundred feet from Basalt Cellars’ front door. Full-day, halfday and dinner cruises are available and are a “can’t miss” in warmer months. www.hellscanyontours.com.

Camas Prairie Winery, Moscow, Idaho: Monday Saturday, noon - 6:30 p.m.

Downtown Moscow at 110 S. Main. 800-616-0214, www.camasprairiewinery.com.

Clearwater Canyon Cellars, Lewiston, Idaho: Housed in a new building near the foot of the Lewiston Grade. Closed summers. Open Saturday 1-5 p.m. Oct. 1-Dec. 24. www.cccellars.com.

Merry Cellars, Pullman, Wash.: Monday - Saturday, 1-6 p.m., Friday open until 8 p.m. Visit Aug. 22-23 during the National Lentil Festival in Pullman when the winery introduces its summer releases. www.merrycellars.com.

Wawawai Canyon Winery, Pullman, Wash.: Friday - Saturday, noon 7 p.m., Sunday noon5 p.m. Housed in a picturesque space shared with Prairie Bloom Nursery, look for their sign on Highway 270 between Moscow and Pullman. www.wawawaicanyon.com.

W H E R E T O S TAY

The Palouse can become frustratingly crowded during university event weekends. Call ahead for accommodations during the school year.

The Hazelton House Bed & Breakfast, Pullman. This stately home celebrates its 100th birthday this year. It has great presentation, and the owners are responsive and helpful. The Hazelton House B&B, 210 NW Olsen St., Pullman, Wash. 509334-0408, www.hazeltonhousebb.com.

MaryJane’s Farm Bed and Breakfast, Moscow.

For a more rustic experience, try one of the surprisingly comfortable wall tent accommodations at MaryJane’s Farm. Open from May 1-July 15, each wall tent is equipped with a full-size bed, woodstove, towels and some unique amenities. Enjoy a bottle of

“When it comes to style,” she said, “what ends up in the bottle is a reflection of all of us.”

Umiker hails from a family of former wheat and barley farmers in the Lewiston Valley and is working on a doctorate in food science with an emphasis on wine microbiology.

She began making wine as an undergrad and gained hands-on experience at Whitman Cellars.

In 2004, she and her soil-scientist husband, Karl, partnered with three other couples to establish Clearwater

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palouse your favorite Palouse wine under the stars at your personal fire pit and savor MaryJane’s organic breakfast the following morning.

Accommodations sell out quickly. MaryJane’s Farm B&B, 1000 Wild Iris Lane, Moscow, Idaho, 888-750-6004, www.maryjanesfarm.com.

Cliff House Bed and Breakfast, Clarkston.

Experience a commanding view of the Snake River and Lewis & Clark’s campsite via the bedroom suites at this unforgettable and convenient location. The Cliff House B&B, 1227 Westlake Dr., Clarkston, Wash., 509-758-1267, www.cliffhouseclarkston.com.

W H E R E T O E AT

Nectar, Moscow: This hotspot focuses on local ingredients and regional wines. Owners Nikki and Brett Woodland purchase ingredients from the Moscow Farmers Market and Eaton’s Natural Beef, a local producer of hormone- and antibiotic-free, grass-fed beef. Nikki graduated from the Western Culinary Institute in Portland and worked at both Luna and Mizuna Restaurant and Wine Bar in Spokane. Nectar, 105 W. Sixth, Moscow, Idaho, 208-882-5914.

Swilly’s, Pullman: A mainstay on the Palouse for more than 20 years, Swilly’s is a cozy, bistro-style restaurant with Northwestinspired dishes, good coffee and a balanced wine list. Reservations are recommended during Palouse event weekends. Swilly’s, 200 NE Kamiaken, 509-3343395, www.swillys.com.

Sycamore Street Grill, Clarkston. Owner Pat Morrison was one of the original partners at Basalt Cellars and offers several of their wines. Sycamore Street Grill, 900 Sixth St., Clarkston. Wash., 509-751-0881.

WINE SHOPS

Old Post Office Wine Cellar & Gallery, Pullman: In the same building as Merry Cellars, the “Gallery” upstairs features excellent food pairings and an impressive wine list heavily weighted toward the Northwest. Old Post Office, 245 SE Paradise, Pullman, Wash., 509-338-9463, www.opowines.com Wine Company of Moscow: This is where Muscovites go for the largest selection of quality wines. It’s around the corner from Camas Prairie Winery. 113 East Third, Moscow, Idaho, 208-882-6502.

Canyon Cellars, which produces 275 cases.

She and Karl also operate a 3-acre vineyard on their family’s land where they grow 10 varieties of wine grapes.

The partners at Clearwater Canyon craft a Malbec, Merlot, Viognier and a blend called Renaissance Red. The business plan is to reach 600 cases by 2009 — and the focus will be local.

“Our mission and goal is to make premium wines from grapes grown here in the valley,” Umiker said. “Although

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F E AT U R E

Among the sights that greet wine lovers to Moscow’s night life are a neon wine bar sign at Camas Prairie Winery and a rather stiff sommelier outside a downtown restaurant.

we do source some of our grapes from outside the valley, we’re each year trying to increase the amount of grapes grown locally, and that’s really what we want to do — bring back the tradition of great winemaking from local grapes in the LC Valley.” ı J AN A LIE N is a freelance writer and native of the Palouse. She lives along the Puget Sound and remains passionate about Northwest wine, buying local and the WSU Cougars. This is her first article for Wine Press Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

Maryhill Winery 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA

Tasting Room Open daily 10-6 • Gold medal wines • Huge Gift Shop selection www.maryhillwinery.com

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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Gary Figgins shares some laughs along with barrel samples out of his wine cave.

MORE INFO LEONETTI CELLAR

➤ Address: 1875 Foothills Lane, Walla Walla, Wash. ➤ Web site: leonetticellar.com ➤ Wines: Leonetti produces four wines, all red: Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese.

See Bob Woehler’s column on Page 114 for more. ➤ Hours: Leonetti is not open to the public. The waiting list is five to eight years. To sign up, go to the Web site.

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PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

Leonetti Cellar Celebrating 30 years of winemaking in Walla Walla

W

ho would have thought that a machinist at Continental Can Co. in Walla Walla, Wash., would launch a winery that not only would help define a statewide industry but also ultimately transform a town best known for wheat farming and a state penitentiary?

Certainly not Gary Figgins, founder of Leonetti Cellar, which crushed its 30th vintage last fall. His first tastes of wine came as a child when his maternal grandfather gave him watered-down reds made in the basement.

“Grandpa made wine for home use, about five barrels per year,” Figgins said.

Figgins continued the family tradition, making wine at home beginning in 1970, then launching Leonetti Cellar with the 1978 vintage.

In 1982, Figgins entered his first wine, the 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon, in the Tri-Cities Wine Festival and won a gold medal. Soon, Wine & Spirits magazine got wind and requested samples, as it put on a competition that tried to determine the best wines in the nation.

“That wine took the best Cabernet in the nation,” Figgins said. “We knew it was a good wine, but we had no idea. That pretty much launched us.”

The award landed Leonetti on the cover of the magazine, and the phone started ringing — and it really hasn’t stopped since. Even Julia Child wrote a letter, stating how amazed she was that a wine from Washington could be that good.

When that ’78 Cab was released, Figgins and his wife,

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Nancy, started a list of customers, primarily of doctors and lawyers in Walla Walla who they thought would buy their wines. After the Wine & Spirits article came out, the list grew quickly. Today, about 2,400 people are on “The List,” with another 800 to 900 on the waiting list.

Through the years, Figgins made Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and blends. By 1984, he focused entirely on reds. In 1995, he added Sangiovese to the mix, a nod to his Italian heritage. And in 2000, he launched the Reserve, a Bordeaux blend that is his most expensive wine.

By 1989, Figgins retired from Continental Can. He and Nancy built a new winery building, borrowing a little money for the roof. The loan was paid off early, and they’ve never borrowed a dime since, spending only what they could afford. In recent years, they’ve built a stunning facility with underground caves where barrels of Leonetti wines age.

The success also brought difficulties. Because Leonetti wines became so highly sought after, wine lovers would show up at the Figgins home at all hours, hoping to purchase bottles, taste samples or tour the facilities. This created a bunker mentality for the Figgins family.

“We had to start blocking maneuvers,” Figgins said.

“We had to keep our sanity, keep people at bay.”

Figgins erected literal and figurative walls and gates to keep away the crowds.

“We hoped people would respect that it was our home, that we couldn’t let everyone come in.”

Putting up the barriers had another effect: It created an aura of exclusivity, making Leonetti wines seem impossible to obtain.

“In some ways, it kept potential business at bay,” Figgins said. “People who wanted it would spend time on the waiting list and finally get on. It sorted out those who were serious and those who weren’t.”

Today, Figgins feels good about the strategy, as Leonetti has a customer

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leonetti

base he can count on to buy his wine each year. It also leaves him happier.

“It was stressful in the ’80s and ’90s,” he said. “I am more relaxed these days.”

Through the years, Leonetti has a well-earned reputation for making some of the state’s finest and mostexpensive wines. This year, the Reserve retailed for $125, putting it among the highest-priced wines in the Pacific Northwest. Yet compared with cult wineries in Napa or the

First Growths in Bordeaux, Leonetti still is relatively affordable. Half of the wine’s production goes to distributors, when Figgins could sell it all to customers on The List. Part of this is a nod to those he’s done business with through the past three decades. Part of it is second nature.

“If you’re a true entrepreneur, you feel it could all evaporate any minute,” Figgins said. “It’s always in the back of your mind. We came up the hard way, scraping to get by. We had to do this on a shoestring in the

early years, and that sticks with you.”

Dramatically raising prices to Napa and Bordeaux levels isn’t likely to happen.

“That doesn’t create friends,” he said. “It’s all about giving quality, moving prices up gradually and not thinking you’re a cult winery that can charge $375 to $500 per bottle.

We have world-class quality and are on top of the heap in pricing in Washington. We’re very comfortable with that. I look at the ridiculous

Leonetti: The Next Generation THROUGH ITS FIRST 30 YEARS, LEONETTI CELLAR HAS earned its reputation as Washington’s best winery by never settling for anything less than the best. And as the second generation takes over the winery, that focus could not be in better hands with Chris Figgins.

Figgins, 34, joined the family business in 1996 after graduating from Washington State University with a horticulture degree. He began to get into wine in college and was considering what direction to go for a career.

Ultimately, he called his dad and said, “What if I get a horticulture degree? Could we plant our own vineyards?” Today, he’s the winemaker.

While he’s undoubtedly his father’s son, he’s no clone. He spends much of his time tending the three estate vineyards, and he’s much more visible than his parents ever were.

“I think it’s a mix of personality and youthful energy,” he said. “It’s also a bit of the maturation of our business.

I want to give back to our industry, so you see me saying yes to speaking at Taste Washington and making more appearances.”

He also is starting to see what his parents went through, as people ask more and more from him.

“In the last five years, I’ve learned to say ‘no’ more often. Mom has been good at helping me learn this.”

He’s also going in directions his parents likely didn’t

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consider. He’s the vineyard consultant on Éritage, a project that will include private residences, vineyards and wineries. At least as significantly, he’s teamed up with NFL great Drew Bledsoe on a vineyard and winery project called Double Back. Bledsoe and Figgins attended Walla Walla High School and WSU together.

“This is not your typical celebrity wine project,” Figgins said. Rather, Bledsoe deeply respects wine and sees this as his second career after football. The first wine will be released in 2010.

Figgins has no plans to change Leonetti, though he isn’t standing still, either.

“I really like the direction we’re going now, and we’ll keep Leonetti focused on the four wines we’re doing.

We are going to add some new projects.”

His idea is to create sister wineries under the name Figgins Family Wine Estates. The focus will be similar: small lots, ultra-high quality and focused on Walla Walla Valley fruit. He anticipates crushing a little fruit this fall for it.

“Like Leonetti, we want to go very slowly,” he said.

“We don’t want to do the Mondavi thing (and grow too quickly). We want to manage growth and keep quality very high. We can’t afford to do less than a perfect job.

The standard has been set. We have to achieve absolute quality.”

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leonetti prices today in Bordeaux and shake my head.”

Figgins also is pleased to see his success spread to others. As wineries opened in the Walla Walla Valley in the ’80s and ’90s, they realized they could do very well when Leonetti opened to those on The List.

“A lot of Leonetti customers with discretionary income and a fine palate would come to town and buy others’ wines, too,” Figgins said.

What was known as Leonetti

Weekend now is called Spring Release Weekend and is the biggest retail weekend of the year for wineries.

“The bad part is we can’t get out to visit our friends because we’re so tied up with our deal,” Figgins said.

Even during the holiday barrel tasting weekend in early December, Figgins has trouble getting to more than a couple of wineries. Part of this is his reluctant status as a celebrity winemaker, so everybody wants to corner him and chat. That

F E AT U R E

makes him uncomfortable because he doesn’t want to take the focus away from the winery he’s visiting.

“There’s no need to feel like we have a higher status because we happen to spoil perfectly good grape juice a little better than others,” he said with a hearty laugh. ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

Chris Figgins discusses the soil of Leonetti’s vineyards with supervision from his dog Shotgun.

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

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635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY Tamarack Cellars 700 C St. Walla Walla, WA (at the airport)

Hours: Mar.-Nov. Thurs. & Fri. 12-4 Sat. & Sun. 10-4

509-526-3533 Current Releases: • 2006 Firehouse Red • 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon • 2006 Cabernet Franc • 2006 Sangiovese • 2005 Sagemoor www.tamarackcellars.com Vineyard Reserve

Get acquainted with Walldeaux Smithie at Forgeron Cellars Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM

Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Releases: 33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla

06 Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc 06 Walla Walla Valley Merlot 06 Columbia Valley Sangiovese 05 “Vineyard Select” Cabernet Sauvignon

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www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463

840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both.

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

Friday 1 - 5 pm • Saturday 12 - 5 pm Sunday 1 - 4 pm

509-527-8400

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

www.fivestarcellars.com

509-526-0676

Est. 1988

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WINE COUNTRY: SPOKANE

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John Stuart said an Oregon Liquor Control Commission ruling prevents his latest business venture, AgriVino Wine Center, from operating as he envisioned.

AgriVino’s aggravations A bittersweet opening — and partial closure — for Oregon’s new tasting gallery

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

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ohn Stuart’s ultimate goal for wine lovers was to offer them an experience they can’t enjoy at gas pumps in Oregon — self-service.

His AgriVino Wine Center near Carlton opened May 5 to the thrill of almost everyone who is part of the north Willamette Valley wine industry.

However, the Oregon Liquor Control Commission instructed Stuart that his cutting-edge business model for wine tasting is unlawful.

After more than two weeks of operation, Stuart said he learned of the decision Friday, May 23 — the beginning of perhaps the biggest weekend in Oregon wine touring.

“It’s unbelievable, and I’m obviously outraged,” Stuart said.

“What’s more is the indication that the OLCC basically set us up.”

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On June 5, Stuart decided his showpiece facility would remain open — only without the high-tech Enomatic wine preservation system.

“I will just eat it and move on down the road,” Stuart said. “We will still be here as an event center. It will probably take about a month to dismantle the system.”

He intended for his patrons to select from as many as 56 regional wines. They were available at the push of a button, delivering a 1-ounce pour. A personalized access card limited patrons to 10 such pours in a two-hour visit.

“It’s just a shame,” said Joe Dobbes, one of Oregon’s most respected winemakers. “He would have been essentially an unpaid concierge for the 200 wineries within a half-hour drive of

him. It would have been the epicenter of the Oregon wine industry.”

More than 25 wineries were on the waiting list to be featured in the tasting rotation, Stuart said.

But Christie Scott, an OLCC spokeswoman, said only Stuart’s servers were permitted to push the delivery button.

“In my discussions with staff, I have learned that our Salem office told Mr. Stuart on two separate occasions that the self-serve option of the Enomatic wine preservation system would not be allowable under the current statute,” Scott said via e-mail. “Both these conversations happened back in summer of 2007 before Mr. Stuart had ever applied for a license.”

Stuart calls that “a falsehood, and I will pay for the polygraph tests.”

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Central to AgriVino’s self-serve wine tasting concept is a hightech machine by Enomatic.

He claims he never received a hint of concern from the state until May 2, three days before he opened his $350,000 operation.

“I would have never spent what I did if I did not have the belief that the OLCC was in full knowledge of my plan,” said Stuart, who accused the OLCC of “file padding” — fabricating documents.

I N S P I R AT I O N F O R W I N E G A L L E RY

Five years ago, Stuart and his wife, Judi, left Las Vegas and found refuge in rural Yamhill County. They purchased Abbey Road Farm and painstakingly transformed three grain silos into a remarkable bed & breakfast experience within an 82-acre working farm. Judi’s artisan goat cheese is served at breakfast.

“Each day began with a similar question from guests, ‘Gee, where do we go? There are 200 wineries within a half-hour drive of here,’ ” Stuart said.

“My typical retort was, ‘Gee, what do you like?’ ” he said. “That really began the process of examination.”

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Argon gas, computers and the dazzling array of world-class wineries would have allowed AgriVino visitors to define their palate and discover what characteristics of wine they enjoyed.

“The thing we wanted to promote was you taste the wine here, then as you made selections and wanted to be guided out to the wineries, you met with our concierge, who would provide maps and arrange visits at the wineries and restaurants,” he said.

The focus was on the wineries of the north Willamette Valley, with 48 of the 56 tasting stations devoted to the Stuarts’ neighbors.

“It would have helped so many people,” Dobbes said. “I’ve got one of my wines in there right now, but you know what was going to happen? John’s staff would say, ‘Here’s what you like, so go see Joe. And when you are in Dundee, go stop by and see Argyle because you like their wine, too.”

Orchestrating it was Todd Steele,

who left a managerial position at historic Nick’s Italian Cafe in McMinnville to lead Stuart’s project.

The goal was to serve new releases and library wines, with Pinot Noir from Oregon taking up most — not all — of the AgriVino tasting stations.

“One eight-station unit would have displayed the iconoclast wines of the world,” Stuart said. “Our theory is that if you are able to compare those against the wines of the north Willamette Valley, what you will discover is that while there are wonderful wines around the world, the best wines in the world are from right here.”

Enomatic systems span the world and the West Coast, including one operated by wineries in San Luis Obispo (Calif.) and Cineotopia — a restaurant/theater in Vancouver, Wash.

Clarke’s Restaurant in Lake Oswego put theirs behind the bar in July 2006.

“Our machines were the first in Oregon and we LOVE them,” Laurie Clarke said via e-mail. “I know that

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agrivino

Todd Steele sets up one of the Enomatic stations with wines priced from $1.85 to $11 per one-ounce pour.

Each customer gets a card that, together with the computer system, keeps track of the samples poured and money left.

(Enomatic) had to lobby the Washington liquor control people to get the self-serve units at Cinetopia/ Vinotopia approved. Those units are in a special room with a ‘no minors’ posting on the doors, and I believe they have to have an employee in there at all times monitoring their use.”

Cineotopia owner Rudyard Coltman, who also is an attorney, was contacted by phone but declined to comment.

On Dec. 4, 2007, the Washington State Liquor Control Board issued a letter to an Enomatic distributor allowing the system to be sold. The last line reads, “Customers are not allowed to serve themselves in any manner.”

Susan Reams, WSLCB communications consultant, told Wine Press Northwest that an agent would revisit Cineotopia. “If the customer is pushing the button, they are not supposed to,” she said.

A key feature Stuart employed at AgriVino was embedded in the plastic card each visitor used to access the 78

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stations that once were horse stables.

The card stored tasting information that Stuart’s members would have been able to retrieve via the Internet.

The Stuarts also turned a corral into a 300-seat amphitheater, with singer Kenny Rankin as the opening act on July 5. The show will go on, Stuart said, as will the events center and commercial kitchen.

A C O S T LY B AT T L E

AgriVino’s supporters didn’t expect the OLCC to budge.

Another Willamette Valley winemaker, who asked not to be identified, said, “Right now, the wine industry has a very brittle relationship with the OLCC.” Scott said her agency’s duty is merely to enforce laws passed by the state Legislature.

“It is the specific application of a self-serve station that violates Oregon Revised Statute 471.360 that anyone mixing, selling or serving alcohol for on-premise consumption must have a valid service permit,” Scott said. “In

the proposed application, the service permit holder would not be serving the alcoholic beverage, it would be the individual patrons who dispense the alcohol themselves.”

AgriVino’s business model was designed for one sommelier, a concierge and a single “floating” monitor (each a licensed server). It was too costly and inconvenient for each guest to be escorted, Stuart said.

“These are 10 1-ounce pours of wine, not 10 shots of tequila,” Stuart said. “And thus far, the average total per person was only 4.3 ounces. This was not a place to get drunk.”

Stuart pointed out Oregon allows adults to pour themselves a glass of beer from a pitcher or wine from an opened bottle at a restaurant table.

“In (the self-pour) situation, the service permit holder is selling the bottle or pitcher and serving the bottle or pitcher directly to the patron,” Scott said. “What follows is known as a self-pour, not a self-serve.”

At AgriVino, Stuart said, “The wine

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agrivino

... and customers select the wine they’d like to try and a 1-ounce taste is poured.

The key card goes into a slot in the machine...

is purchased at the station. You now have the ability to go get your wine.”

Besides, he said OLCC officials have told him “the statute is not applied uniformly across the state.”

Stuart calls that “unconstitutional.”

Ironically, Section 39 of the state Constitution notes it should “encourage the use and consumption of lighter beverages and aid in the establishment of Oregon industry.”

One option for Stuart would have been to follow the lead of Brian McMenamin, who successfully lobbied state legislators to legalize brewpubs in 1985.

Dobbes said, “My hunch is the rest of the Oregon wine industry would have been very supportive.

We’ve gone to the Legislature in the past and had success.”

OLCC agents urged Stuart to begin that process last summer and even suggested contacts, Scott said.

“If they had told me six months ago there was a problem, I would have started the process,” Stuart said.

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F E AT U R E

A M AT T E R O F D E B AT E

Stuart shared with Wine Press Northwest copies of e-mails he exchanged with OLCC representatives, as well as what appear to be contradictory internal OLCC memos.

One indicated the OLCC was aware of AgriVino’s patron self-serve plans in the summer 2007 and deemed it a violation. However, another OLCC email interpreted Stuart’s approach as “self-pour,” thus within the statute.

In November, Stuart contacted Wine Press Northwest with news of his Enomatic purchase. The OLCC licensed AgriVino for April 1, but Scott wrote, “The paperwork Mr. Stuart submitted for his license application in March 2008 did not identify the Enomatic wine-preservation system or a self-serve practice.”

Stuart contends he completely filled out the application. He said there is no category to indicate a self-serve approach, but he adds the OLLC was aware of his plans based on its multiple visits to AgriVino.

So Stuart hired a private investiga-

tor and retained an attorney. On Memorial Day weekend, he served his guests and posted signs informing them of his battle with the OLCC. He was interviewed on the May 31 broadcast of Dobbes’ statewide syndicated Vine Time radio program on KXL in Portland.

Ultimately, though, the litigation and the bad blood would have been too costly, Stuart said.

“I did not want to add to the discord that you learned exists between the OLCC and the great folks in the Oregon wine industry,” he said.

According to Stuart, the state said AgriVino could re-open — as a bar.

“I’ve owned bars before, but this is not the right setting, and I don’t want to go back on my word with the county,” he said. “I’ve got friends in Vegas who are opening a bar. They may be interested in my equipment.”ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO

“BEST RED WINE” ~ 2008 Northwest Wine Summit www.koenigvineyards.com • 208-455-8386 20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, ID 83607 Open Fri., Sat. & Sun. 12-5

Bitner Vineyards 16645 Plum Rd., Caldwell, ID 83607

208454-0086 Open: Weekends Noon-5 www.bitnervineyards.com

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WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

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El Gaucho’s Grilled New York Strip with Cherry Demi-Glace and Melted Roquefort Cheese is paired with the Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée.

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE

Primo pairings Northwest chefs match salmon and steak – even cigars – with Frenchman’s Gulch Ketchum Cuvée.

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

EL GAUCHO P O RT L A N D

ONE STEP INSIDE THE EL GAUCHO in downtown Portland transports you back to the halcyon days of the sophisticated nighttime steakhouse of the 1950s with low ceilings, candle lighting and servers in black tie.

There’s table-side service of Bananas Foster or flaming swords of shish kabobs. Ambiance includes a piano player and booths surrounded by famous bottles of red wine.

Diners Club card is accepted.

What’s missing from this scene? Power brokers conducting business, seeking seclusion in a darkened corner puffing cigars as they close deals.

In fact, they can exist at this self-described “retro-swanky” establishment on the corner of Broadway and Stark.

They are sequestered in the cigar lounge in back.

“We’ve had this cigar lounge since we opened the restaurant,” said executive chef Michael Macfarlane. “It has always been true to the things we consider to be ‘El Gaucho’ — great steaks, great wine, great cigar, great service.”

El Gaucho originated in Seattle in 1953 and closed in 1985. Regional restaurateur Paul Mackay, whose background included managing 13 Coins, Yarrow Bay

Grill, Metropolitan Grill, Flying Fish and the original El Gaucho, revived and relaunched it in Seattle’s Belltown in 1996. The Portland location — adjacent to the historic Benson Hotel — came next in 2000, followed by Tacoma (2002). Mackay Restaurants plan for the next El Gaucho to open this fall in Bellevue, Wash.

At least for now, Portland’s El Gaucho stands out for one thing, aside from maitre d’ extraordinaire Sherwood Dudley. It is the only cigar-friendly restaurant in the group after Washington state voters banned indoor smoking.

Oregon fires up its version of the law Jan. 1.

General manager Todd Moore said, “To the best of my knowledge, we will fall within the criteria of acceptability when the smoking ban goes into place. We will be one of the very few, if not the only, cigar room in Portland proper.”

As pleased as Moore and Macfarlane are with that possibility, the real pride centers on the steaks and their preparation.

“Certified Angus beef means never, ever having to apologize for your product,” Macfarlane said.

“There are approximately two criteria to be a USDA prime steak, there are 10 criteria to be a certified Angus beef steak.”

And whether you

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Frenchman’s Gulch $20 2005 Ketchum Cuvée, Washington —550 cases produced, 14.3% alcohol ach issue, Wine Press Northwest sends wine to two chefs with a passion for our region’s wines. The chefs are asked to match a recipe to the selected wine.

And according to judges at the 2008 Northwest Wine Summit, this stands out as one of the year’s best releases.

Steve “Mac” McCarthy buys Washington grapes and escorts them to his winery in Ketchum, Idaho. It’s an arduous task, and gold medals don’t come easily at the Mount Hood competition. But the really tough part comes when Mac tries to sell them to the transplanted Californians he shares Sun Valley with.

“I think my wines are made for those who appreciate Northwest wine and cuisine, but there’s a large element of people from New York and California who live here, and — well — they don’t have the same makeup as wine drinkers in Portland, the Willamette Valley and Washington state,” McCarthy said.

There’s a double-edged sword most Idaho wineries face. Price their wines much above $20 and they scare away the inexperienced. Price them affordably, as most Idaho wineries do, and the uneducated believe the wine must be plonk.

However, the wealthy wine drinker likely is unaware that some of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in Ketchum Cuvée came from Matador Ranch, which contributes to Quilceda Creek’s “100 point” reds.

Quilceda Creek purchased the Horse Heaven Hills vineyard starting with the 2006 vintage and renamed it Palengat.

“The Cuvée is nothing glamorous on my part,” McCarthy said. “It’s just grapes from the vineyard, and I just keep the focus on the fruit. The Cuvée is our biggest production and it gets more of the lesser — or neutral — barrels.”

The blend starts off as a 60/40 split of Cabernet Sauvignon, mostly from the Horse Heaven Hills, and Merlot.

“Then it evolves into what is tasting best,” he said.

The Cab Sauv (52%) is from Aldercreek in the Horse Heaven Hills, Dwelley in the Walla Walla Valley and the erstwhile Matador. The Merlot (28%) is from Dwelley.

The Cab Franc (28%) is all from Chandler Reach near Red Mountain.

We rated it “Outstanding” in our Spring 2008 issue, noting its cordial cherries, cedar, pencil shavings, slate and earth aromas.

Tremendous balance is wrapped around the chocolate, cherries and tar flavors.

E

Frenchman’s Gulch Winery, 360 9th St. E., Suite 9, Ketchum, Idaho, 83340, 208726-0118., www.frenchmansgulch.com.

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“Steak and big Northwest reds are profiled quite prominently.

It’s like peanut butter and chocolate. Two great tastes that go great together.” El Gaucho’s exec-

— M I C H A E L M A C FA R L A N E

utive chef Michael Macfarlane tries out a Davidoff Aniversario No. 2 cigar paired with Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée.

request an eight-ounce filet mignon or the Flintstoneesque 50-ounce porterhouse, each El Gaucho steak will be dry-aged for 28 days and charbroiled over Kingsford briquettes.

“It’s not convenient,” Macfarlane said. “We’ll go through six to eight bags a night, and each bag is a double 40-pounder, but we do it because of the quality. You just don’t get the caramelization and nice char any other way.”

Macfarlane, 41, graduated from Portland’s Lincoln High School and played a year of college football at Eastern Oregon before focusing on his culinary career. Stints included Salty’s on the Columbia, Elephants Deli and another of Portland’s famed steak spots — the Ringside.

He then spent a decade in Miami Beach restaurants, where he gained business acumen, learned to scuba dive and met his wife, who grew up near Buenos Aires.

“I kind of ran with a large group of Argentineans and Uruguayans, so it was a big beef culture,” Macfarlane said.

Family ties brought him home in 2006, and he “landed very well by scoring this gig,” saying with a smile.

Moore continues to oversee the wine program, and he offers some well-establish Pinot Noir from Oregon and bold Washington reds.

There are some up-and-comers, too, including Left Coast Cellars, Roxy Ann, The Four Graces and Troon from Oregon as well as Cougar Crest, Watermill and Zerba from the Walla Walla Valley.

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“Steak and big Northwest reds are profiled quite prominently,” Macfarlane said. “It’s like peanut butter and chocolate. Two great tastes that go great together.”

One expects a mouthwatering steak and pairings with big reds when visiting an El Gaucho property, and Macfarlane did not disappoint with the Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée.

“There were hints of cherry and berries, but cherries stuck in my mind more than the berries,” Macfarlane said. “It was like Cherries Jubilee. There was nice balance and acidity to the wine, so I added the blue cheese for a creamy note. And we took those flavors and pulled it into the cigar.”

Several years ago, Moore participated in our Match Maker featuring the Benson Hotel’s London Grill. This time, rather than assist with the food pairing, Moore selected the cigar. And his choice of a Davidoff Aniversario No. 2 ($25), proved to be spot-on. Its mild Connecticut shade wrapper makes perfect sense for an afternoon conversation or this wellbalanced wine.

“I picked up on the cherries and raspberries with some good leather notes,” Moore noted. “On the second pass, I pulled out some plums and cedar, then more leather.

I thought it would be perfect with a nice, light cigar. So I leaned toward the Davidoff Aniversario No. 2, which has creamy and nutty flavors.”

It was a remarkable pairing. Moore first toasted the foot with a gas flame. Then, rather than relying on a match or lighter to ignite the cigar, he lit a “spill,” a strip of the cedar used to line the cigar box. It allowed me to blow a cloud with just the right draw.

After a puff or two, I returned to the Ketchum Cuvée. What stood out in the glass at this point was cedar in the aroma and cherries in the flavors. But most remarkable was discovering that smoking this Davidoff enhanced the acidity in the wine.

Then, Moore made a rather ironic comment.

“My second choice for the cigar pairing was the Arturo Fuente

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Grilled New York Strip with Cherry Demi-Glace and Melted Roquefort Cheese Serves 4

4 cups of Cabernet Sauvignon ⁄2 cup minced shallots 1 cup fresh Bing cherries, pitted and halved 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped 3 cups veal stock 2 red onions, sliced thin 1 ⁄2 cup butter plus 1 tablespoon, separated use salt and pepper, to taste 4 16-ounce New York Strip steaks, cut 1 1⁄2- to 2-inches thick 1 ⁄2 pound vein blue cheese such as Gorgonzola, Roquefort or your favorite 1

1. Simmer the wine, shallots, cherries, thyme, rosemary and carrot until the liquid reduces to 1⁄4 its original volume.

2. Add the veal stock and reduce until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

3. Purée the ingredients and put through a fine mesh strainer. Set aside.

4. While the sauce is simmering, in a separate pan, sauté the red onions with 1 tablespoon of butter over mediumlow heat until dark, sweet and caramelized.

5. Preheat grill or charbroiler to medium-high heat and season steaks with salt and pepper. Grill to your satisfaction with 8 minutes on each side — the target for medium rare. Using thick-cut steaks makes it easier to achieve medium-rare while still getting a nice char and some caramelization on the outside without overcooking the inside.

6. Place steaks on a metal tray and place blue cheese on top. Then place the steaks in a broiler just long enough for the cheese to begin to bubble.

7. While the cheese is melting, reheat the cherry sauce and whisk in 1⁄2 cup of butter for richness. Taste, then season with salt and pepper.

8. Pool the cherry sauce on four plates. Place each steak on the sauce and top with caramelized onions.

Hemingway Short Story,” Moore said.

This 4-inch perfecto from the Dominican Republic ($7) features a Cameroon wrapper. Arturo Fuente began producing a series of cigars honoring the Ernest Hemingway back in 1986.

And the great American writer committed suicide in a house just a short walk from Frenchman’s Gulch Winery in Ketchum, Idaho.

El Gaucho, 319 SW Broadway, Portland, OR, 97205, 503-227-8794, www.elgaucho.com.

PRIMO GRILL TA C O M A

MANY RESTAURATEURS ACROSS the United States saw more of their tables go empty in the months after 9/11.

The terrorist attacks produced the opposite effect for Primo Grill in Tacoma.

Indeed, Charlie McManus and wife, Jacqueline Plattner, continue to enjoy the sweet smell of success — a mouthwatering whiff of alder smoke that wafts over the rejuvenated Sixth Avenue District neighborhood.

“I think after 2001, the whole local

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movement became stronger,” Plattner said. “People started to ask, ‘What have you got that’s local?’ So we started to press for selling local.

And that’s been the trend for the last several years.”

That regional concept comes as second nature for McManus. He has lived in the Puget Sound since emigrating in 1979 from war-torn Belfast, Northern Ireland, at age 19.

Little did he know that great Washington wine would become a part of his heritage.

“When I came to the States, I stayed with the Camarda family,” McManus said. “Chris Camarda now owns Andrew Will, one of the great wineries in Washington state, but he and his brother were working at Il Bistro in Seattle and got me a job as a dishwasher.”

In time, McManus worked his way up to executive chef at the Pike Place landmark, and he also can thank the Camardas for Plattner.

“I was dating his cousin, Lawrence, who was working as a waiter at Il Bistro,” she said with a smile. “And he brought me into dinner at Il Bistro, and Charlie was the chef. That’s how we met.”

There’s a dash of an Irish left in McManus’ voice, but his culinary focus is straightforward Charlie McManus seasons an Alaskan king salmon filet before preparing it on a wood-fired grill at Primo Grill in Tacoma, Wash.

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPES Alder-Grilled Alaskan King Salmon with Ruby Port Sauce Serves 2

1 4 1 1⁄2 2 1

tablespoon minced shallots ounces ruby Port ounces red wine vinegar ounces heavy cream tablespoon unsalted butter salt and pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon minced chives 2 7-ounce Alaskan King salmon filets, no more than 3⁄4-inch thick olive oil

cooking.

7. Use a pastry brush to apply a thin coat of olive oil on the salmon. Season with salt and pepper.

8. Grill the salmon for approximately 2 minutes, then turn for about 90 seconds to score the flesh. Flip, then cook for another 3 minutes until just cooked.

Serve over Ruby Port Sauce accompanied by Roasted Asparagus (see recipe, below).

Roasted Asparagus Serves 2

To prepare the Ruby Port Sauce, combine the shallots, Port and vinegar in a small, nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Reduce by half and turn the heat to medium low.

2. Add the cream and cook for 2 minutes.

3. Whisk the butter into the sauce and season with salt and black pepper.

4. Garnish with the minced chives.

The sauce can be set aside and kept warm on a double boiler.

5. Prepare the grill, preferably using alderwood.

6. Heat the grill so there is a bed of coals appropriate for very high heat 1.

Mediterranean, using fresh Northwest ingredients in his open kitchen that showcases a woodburning oven and grill.

“There are no convection ovens, no sauce pots, no steamers, no deep fryers,” he said. “We’ve pared it down to this very simple grill-oriented operation. We cook with olive oil and lots of fresh herbs, and our food is very wine friendly because it has big, bold, simple flavors.”

Ingredients feature meat from Lopez Island Farm and Walla Walla’s Thundering Hooves, as well as organic poultry from Stokesberry Sustainable Farms in Olympia.

And Washington wine has been a staple at Primo Grill from the beginning.

“Northwest terroir is something people feel familiar with,” Plattner said. “Our guests have been to the 88

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10 ounces asparagus extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper, to taste 1. Heat a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and then add the asparagus.

2. Cook the asparagus until it is bright green but still crisp, about 3-5 minutes.

Tip: If the asparagus is thin, salt and pepper after cooking to avoid wilting because salt draws out moisture. If the spears are thick, salt them at the start of cooking. Salt helps break down the fibrous texture of thick stems.

the west side, but the focus is Walla Walla. Offerings include Abeja, Buty, Forgeron, Rulo, Woodward Canyon and Yellow Hawk.

A share of the credit goes to one of Plattner’s regular customers — Tacoma philanthropist Howie Meadowcroft.

“I mentioned to him that I was traveling to Walla Walla for the first time, and he said, ‘You must meet my sister, Jane,’ and that’s how it started,” Plattner said. “Jane Robison and her husband, Jim, are the best docents for Walla Walla. They introduced me to every single winemaker I know, and I am very grateful to them.”

Plattner and McManus also enjoy serving up goodwill to the community through both the Primo Grill and Crown Bar, their nearby pub.

“Charlie is out there with his shiny head,” she said. “He does cooking classes. We do a lot of charitable work, and we’ve been in the newspaper frequently about our relationships with local businesses and farmers.”

They fund an art scholarship at Tacoma Community College and

“We cook with olive oil and lots of fresh herbs, and our food is very wine friendly because it has big, bold, simple flavors.”

—CHARLIE MCMANUS

wineries, so they know what the flavor profiles are. And most of the winemakers we feature make foodfriendly wines.”

Winemaker dinners staged by McManus at Primo Grill since its debut in 1999 include L’Ecole No. 41, McCrea, Nicholas Cole, Reininger and Tamarack.

It is Plattner who oversees a wine list that hones in on the Northwest.

There is Pinot Noir from Oregon’s A to Z and St. Innocent, but Washington reds dominate. DeLille, McCrea and Novelty Hill represent

partner on the Phyllis McGavick/Charlie McManus culinary arts scholarship at Clover Park Technical College. That is seeded in part by the sale of McGavick Winery Merlot at their two North End restaurants.

“We were the only independent, well-financed restaurant that had opened in this neighborhood in a long time,” McManus said. “We’re still a mom-and-pop operation with working owners, and after nine years, I’m still on the line in the restaurants five nights a week. I real-

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M AT C H M A K E R S ly enjoy the process and meeting with our customers.”

When it comes to the Match Maker, husband and wife teamed up to pair Alaskan king salmon with the Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée.

The teetotaling McManus picked up floral aromas from the Cabernet Franc along with ripe berries and tobacco. As always, he relied on Plattner to educate him of the wine’s flavors, weight and finish.

“As a restaurateur, to open a bottle of wine and have it so approachable right away is a plus point,” she said. “It’s delicious with cherries and berries with silky tannins and a silky and long finish. I’m looking forward to hopefully adding it to our list.”

Precise and simple preparation left the fish moist and flavorful, and what native Northwesterner isn’t a sucker for alder-smoked salmon? The grilling also played upon the tobacco that McManus nosed in the wine.

Most remarkable was the lithe and skillful transition between food and wine, particularly the complete absence of the metallic finish that often occurs with fish and red wine.

“The ruby Port sauce is a rich sauce, and it’s got a bit of cream in it that works well with the fat content of the salmon,” he said.

Primo Grill’s Alder-Grilled Alaskan King Salmon, Ruby Port Sauce and Roasted Asparagus paired with Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée.

Primo Grill, 601 S. Pine St., Tacoma, WA., 98405, 253-383-7000, www.primogrilltacoma.com ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press

Northwest’s managing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is at: WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: PROSSER

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WINE COUNTRY REAL ESTATE

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting.

Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures.

Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate.

The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist and veteran wine judge in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief.

Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity.

The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Competitions To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Oregon State Fair, Northwest Wine Summit, Okanagan Fall Wine Competition, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Northwest Wine & Food Fest, Capital Food & Wine Fest and Greatest of the Grape.

Red wines Cabernet Sauvignon Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2005 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 543 cases, $32

Excellent. This estate site produces remarkable

wines for the Boyles at their expanding operation in Prosser, Wash. Rainier cherries, cranberries, cedar and green peppercorn aromas transcend into a tongue-coating drink of dark Bing cherries, modest tannins and nice acidity.

(14.8% alc.)

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, $24

Outstanding! It doesn’t appear to matter where Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels gets the fruit for her Cab, but the pedigree here includes Bacchus, Dionysus, Katherine Leone, Stillwater Creek and Wahluke Slope Vineyard. The pretty nose contains Bing cherries, allspice, sandalwood and chips of candy cane. Dusty cherries, brambleberries and juicy plums fill the mouth. A surge of tannin will make it prime for a steak topped with veined cheese, or enjoy it during the next administration. (13.8% alc.)

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Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2004 Wahluke Slope Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope, 403 cases, $28

Outstanding! This site has been in the Mielke family for years and makes this bottling deserving of its vineyard-designated status. Sweet oak aromas of cherry wood, sandalwood and vanilla are joined by black currants, black pepper and earthiness. Expansive fruit sweeps across the boldly structured palate with delicious plums, dusty cherries and boysenberries. (13.8% alc.)

Bonair Winery 2004 Morrison Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 93 cases, $30

Excellent. Gail Puryear’s roots are deep in the

Yakima Valley, and this vineyard — planted in 1968 — is seen as the oldest in this young AVA. It’s uncommon to see a Northwest Cab exhibit such a pleasing level of cassis, and it’s joined by sweet oak tones, raspberry and crushed leaf. Cassis carries into the flavors with a creamy entry and supple tannins that should pair well with Beef Bourgogne and truffles.

(13.9% alc.)

Canyon’s Edge Winery 2005 Aldercreek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 870 cases, $16

Recommended. This estate vineyard continues to

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gain prominence among winemakers in the Northwest, and here’s some home-grown proof.

Elegant black fruit and vanilla aromas include anise and green peppercorns. On the palate, it is dense, creamy, straightforward and easy to like with blackberry jam and plum flavors.

(13.3% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 167,500 cases, $16

Outstanding! Four years after his first vintage in Washington, head winemaker Bob Bertheau decided now is the time to release this. Who can argue? It’s a depth-defying structure with all the cherry, sweet spice and toasted oak notes as pie-cherry tartness dives into a big splash at the finish. (13.7% alc.)

Claar Cellars 2005 White Bluffs Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 221 cases, $19

Excellent. Winemaker Bruno Corneaux skillfully

balances notes of barrel and berries in this release from this Pasco, Wash., winery.

Cranberry and blueberry aromas include Tennessee red cedar spice and fresh tar. There are more sweet oak and delicious blackberry jam flavors amid the medium structure, with slightly chalky tannins and blueberry candy in the farewell. (13.6% alc.)

Corvus Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 98 cases, $52

Excellent. Steve Lessard, winemaker for

Whitman Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash., steps outside for a moment for this solo project. It’s all Cab and all from Red Mountain Vineyard. Floral notes feature violets with cherry pipe tobacco, black plums, soy sauce and peppermint. Plums carry on through with flavors of Chukar Cherries and a hint of savory on the rich midpalate. He nailed the tannins, and there’s nice acidity for long life. Even the vessel itself is memorable — a massive bottle weighing in at 1,200 grams. That’s 2.65 pounds of glass.

(13.0% alc.)

Eaton Hill Winery 2004 Konnowac Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 115 cases, $23

Outstanding! Gary Rogers has made wine for the Stears family spanning 20 years, and his barrel programs are unique and diverse. The color of the capsule sets their releases apart. Gold denotes 18 months in oak, which in this case is Hungarian. A pop of the cork unleashes black plums, currants and pine notes. Creamy blackberries make for a lush yet bold entry, which leans into the midpalate with black cherry liqueur and a perfectly balanced finish. And it’s easy to finish the bottle. (14.5% alc.)

Fielding Hills Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 194 cases, $38

Recommended. This Cab from estate RiverBend

vineyard near Mattawa, Wash., features spicy dark red fruit from start to finish with pleasing structure along the way. (14.1% alc.)

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WINE REVIEWS

Hogue Cellars

Horse Heaven Hills, 379 cases, $55

the seeds and the juicy acidity. A ribeye or peppersteak served with sautéed onions and mushrooms will be a match for the assertive tannins. (14.7% alc.)

Recommended. Fanciers of fine cooperage and

Heymann Whinery

Wahluke Slope weathered this vintage and produced a wine with aromas of cherry and showing just a bit of age with leather and alfalfa components. Inside, it’s abundantly rich with fruit, particularly blackberries and Bing cherries.

A sense of earthiness is revealed on the midpalate, followed by a structure of cherry chocolate that overrides the maturing tannins.

(14.8% alc.)

2005 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

fantastic fruit will fawn over this as barrel notes cast a broad shadow. The theme in every direction is candied cherry, rich Dutch chocolate and tobacco tones with ample acidity and balanced tannins. (14.9% alc.)

Foxy Roxy Wine Co. 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $22

Excellent. Rhonda Davis’ vineyard operation in

the Frenchman Hills is realizing early success with its winery near Othello, Wash. The cherry, sandalwood and white pepper aromas are nothing to sneeze at, and the juicy red currants and cherry flavors maintain their elegance because they aren’t burdened by tannin, oak or alcohol.

(12.5% alc.)

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 68 cases, $21

Outstanding! Go ahead. Make fun of their spelling, but this Centralia, Wash., outfit has a serious side, seen with this production from Harold Pleasant’s vineyard in Prosser, Wash.

Cassis, blueberry, tobacco leaf and anise aromas take form on the palate with nice elegance.

The fruit is jammy yet balanced by restrained tannins and alcohol, even-handed barrel management and a pinch of black pepper in the finish. (12.5% alc.)

Hip Chicks Do Wine 2006 Windy Ridge Vineyard Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 173 cases, $20

Goose Ridge Vineyards 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 96 cases, $50

Outstanding! Charlie Hoppes creates this

reserve bottling with bold but food-friendly strokes, setting the table with aromas of red fruit, red peppercorns, bell pepper, crushed walnut and dark chocolate. The palate punches early and often with blackberries, including

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Excellent. This method of fermentation works for many Pinot Noir producers in the Willamette Valley, so these wacky women in Portland gave it a go with Cab. Nearly a year in older French oak produced a rather rustic wine. Black cherries, plums and blackberry aromas are joined by hints of Coffee Nips and Milk Duds. There’s plenty of acidity and tannin, too. And yet, it works, and you’ll keep working the glass. (13% alc.)

2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,742 cases, $30

Excellent. Fruit from Fries Vineyard on the

Koenig Vineyards 2005 Bitner Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Snake River Valley, 242 cases, $20

Excellent. Greg Koenig long has made wine for

Ron Bitner, past leader of the Idaho Wine Commission. And the soft-spoken Koenig gets to keep some of Bitner’s crop, which allows him to display aromas of black cherry, coffee, green bell pepper and mint. It’s as juicy as can be with nice concentrated flavors of cherries, rhubarb, coffee and more mint. The tannin structure allows it to stand up to duck and lamb.

(14.5% alc.)

Maryhill Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,400 cases, $18

Excellent. The timing seems right for this 2004

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Camas Prairie Winery

a plate of chicken molé with Spanish rice and salsa. (13.8% alc.)

2005 Champoux Vineyard Merlot

Claar Cellars

Washington, 230 cases, $15

Outstanding! Stu Scott continues his streak of receiving our top rating, regardless of the price. This veteran Idaho vintner imports grapes from this mecca in the Horse Heaven Hills to produce a Bordeaux-style, food-friendly edition that opens with aromas of plums, mince meat, black cherries, cloves and chocolate. It’s more of the same on the entry with striking balance and pleasing blueberry tartness in the finish. (14.1% alc.)

Canyon’s Edge Winery 2002 Aldercreek Vineyard Sage Brush Red Horse Heaven Hills, 1,800 cases, $14

Excellent. The lead of Merlot (70%), backed by Cabernet Sauvignon

(15%) and Syrah (15%) shows off a food-friendly mix of fresh raspberries, mint, toasted oak and earth scents similar to a stroll into the shrub-steppe. The trip continues with more ripe berries, bittersweet chocolate and nutmeg. Its wealth of acidity and tug of tannins suggest

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2005 White Bluffs Cab-Merlot Columbia Valley, 840 cases, $13

Recommended. Last year marked the 10th anniversary for this estate

overlooking the Hanford Reach, and it continues to earn its reputation for consumer-friendly wines. The expressive blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) is loaded with red fruit aromas and baked chocolate-chip cookies, and delicious fruity acidity akin to boysenberries, marionberries and cranberry juice makes this a friend to roasted turkey breast. (13.7% alc.)

Hauer of the Dauen 2004 Blessed Innocence Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 450 cases, $12

Excellent. It’s not red and not even a rosé. Rather, Carl Dauenhauer

describes this as a white Pinot Noir that is off-dry (1.8% residual sugar). And the family operation guards the details of its production.

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Oak overtones are joined by pears, peaches and peach blossom aromas. It’s peach on the palate with more orchard fruit, yet balanced by ample acidity. While this presentation might confuse some, most will find it mighty enjoyable. (12.4% alc.)

Hauer of the Dauen 2003 Reserve Gamay Noir Willamette Valley, 176 cases, $14

Recommended. A potpourri of rose petals and

violets includes black pepper, blueberries and cherries. Its light body, subtle acidity, delicate tannins and low alcohol will match up with alder-planked salmon this summer.

(12% alc.)

Hoodsport Winery 2006 Cab-Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,318 cases, $7

Recommended. Winemaker Jon Zimmerman

reached into the Roza Hills and came out with an enjoyable and rather fun yet complex drink with notes of blackberries, red currants, forest floor, chocolaty oak chips and red pepper flakes. There’s a memorable chocolate note in the finish. (13.4% alc.)

Hoodsport Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, $7

Recommended. This vintage was produced by

William Ammons, overlord of the Roza Hills Vineyard, and the aromas are of ripe plums, cherries, huckleberries, chocolate and black pepper. On the pleasant palate, it’s a sweet medley with josta berry (a gooseberry/black currant hybrid), huckleberry and blueberry in a piquant finish. Suggested fare includes spicy meat balls with sun-dried tomato egg noodles, feta and olives. (13.9% alc.)

Maryhill Winery

pie cherries, Red Vines licorice and chocolate aromas. The palate features cherries, raspberries and plums. Enjoy this with homegrilled burgers or a T-bone. (13.5% alc.)

nins and a nice finish of bittersweet chocolate.

Open wide and say, “Ahhh...” (13.5% alc.)

Stimson Estate Cellars 2004 Merlot

Sawtooth Winery

Washington, 59,000 cases, $11 (1.5 liters)

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Excellent. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates began

Idaho, 1,400 cases, $13

Recommended. One of Idaho’s largest wineries

continues to serve as an ambassador for quality and affordability. Pie cherries, blueberries, green tea, espresso, bacon, green peppercorns and pleasing tar notes abound in this food-friendly drink. (13.5% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery 2004 Merlot Idaho, 900 cases, $15

Recommended. Despite what has been said in

the movies, folks continue to seek out smooth Merlot, and Brad Pintler has one for them.

This features dark fruit notes of cherry jam with creamy caramel, toast, Montmorency cherries and alfalfa in the background. (14.1% alc.)

Silver Lake Winery 2005 Syrah Rattlesnake Hills, 600 cases, $10

Excellent. A few years ago, the business model

shifted at this Woodinville, Wash., winery, and the shareholders should be pleased. Here is an unmistakable Washington Syrah with smooth blackberries, bold dark plums, allspice and bacon fat notes with remarkable length and chocolaty tar in the finish.

Winemaker William Ammons suggested beef tenderloin, lasagna or lamb. (13.5% alc.)

Steppe Cellars NV Big Sage Red Yakima Valley, 122 cases, $10

offering these 1.5 liter bottles in 2002, and we don’t see any reason for them to stop. This street-legal Merlot (75%) is very, very quaffable with a remarkable bit of elegance. It’s focused on cherries, raspberries and plums with oak notes of tobacco leaf and espresso.

One could drink it all day long, but it’s priced to drink every day. And it’s often available for less than the MSRP. Try with salmon.

(13.5% alc.)

Three Rivers Winery 2006 River’s Red Columbia Valley, 2,892 cases, $13

Recommended. Very few Walla Walla, Wash.,

wineries seek this price tier, yet Holly Turner leads this bargain blend with Syrah (48%) and fills it in with Cab Sauv (23%), Cab Franc (18%), Malbec (9%) and Petit Verdot. It’s big on black fruit with hints of crushed herbs and chalkboard dust. Good acidity allows for a wide range of everyday food applications.

(13.6% alc.)

Waving Tree Winery 2005 Estate Barbera Columbia Valley, 60 cases, $15

Recommended. It’s uncommon to see this great

Italian grape in the Northwest — and rare to experience it at such a price. Black raspberries, blackberries, sarsaparilla and rich chocolate tones create a luscious and smooth structure in which bright acidity wins out over tannin. (13.7% alc.)

Waving Tree Winery

on the bottle, and he makes quite a statement with this blend of Cab Sauv (47%), Merlot (28%), Syrah (15%) and Cab Franc. Barrel scents of mocha, tobacco leaf and S’mores include black currants, sweet hay and earth.

It’s fruit-forward on the palate with pie cherries and more currants, capped by a tug of tannin in the finish. (14.2% alc.)

Outstanding! This young Sunnyside, Wash., winery is a rising star because of the work by winemaker Anke Freimuth-Wildman. Lots of red fruit — Bing cherries, strawberries, pomegranate and cassis — wafts out with a touch of herbs and some milk chocolate. And it’s nice, juicy and balanced with a blend of Bing and pie cherries leading to nice creaminess on the midpalate. Modest tannins give it a bit of staying power, joined by a good finish of acidity and mocha. Available only at the tasting room. (13.9% alc.)

Powers Winery

Stimson Estate Cellars

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon

Waving Tree Winery

Columbia Valley, 4,700 cases, $14

Washington, 83,000 cases, $11 (1.5 liters)

2006 Estate Sangiovese

Excellent. It’s difficult to believe this label in

Outstanding! One can sometimes find this at a

Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, $15

Kennewick, Wash., is already 15 years old, but the quality continues. Greg Powers blended Coyote Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Cougar Vineyard Syrah (5%) Desert View Vineyard Sangiovese (5%) and Goose Ridge Malbec (5%). The result is a sweet, smooth and medium-bodied drink with

drug store, and this line of magnums can be just what the doctor ordered for your checkbook. Remarkable complexity oozes in the nose with ripe blackberries, Montmorency cherries, raspberries, chocolate and moist earth. Bing and sour cherries are offered on the palate with green peppercorns, supple tan-

Excellent. Are you a Pepper? Those who enjoy

2006 Winemaker’s Red Columbia Valley, 16,000 cases, $11

Recommended. That’s Craig Larson’s signature

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2005 McKinley Springs Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 235 cases, $15

Excellent. Terrance Atkins need not range too

far from his Goldendale, Wash., winery for these grapes, and he has produced an expressive and interesting Cab. Cassis, blackberry and black pepper aromas leap from the glass. A swirl brings in plentiful cherries and dark fruit. There’s a ton of tannin, but the fruit keeps up with it, so enjoy this with a grilled ribeye. (13.7% alc.)

the aromas and flavors of Dr Pepper should relish this. Perhaps among those 23 secret sensations are loganberry, blackberry and black cherry liqueur, along with a juicy cherry midpalate and skilled oak management.

(13.5% alc.)

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release, and it’s a reward for those who love nosing black fruit and fresh-ground espresso.

Inside, it’s a big, black, juicy job with a bold and focused palate of black currants and plums and structured with beveled edges. (15.5% alc.)

Nelms Road 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

leads with Stillwater Creek and is backed by Horse Heaven Hills sites Alder Ridge and Champoux. Dark fruit aromas are joined by cloves, black pepper and fudge with walnuts.

It’s thick, lush and hedonistic on the palate, leading with plums and molasses, then more chocolate in the tasty finish. (14.1% alc.)

Washington, 4,314 cases, $21

Novelty Hill

Excellent. Northwest sommeliers show their

2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

savvy when they list this second label for Woodward Canyon because it includes pressed wine from celebrated Champoux and Sagemoor vineyards. A perfumy reception of raspberries and cloves waves you in for a bright presentation of loganberries and cherries. There’s a tartness on the midpalate for food applications with some warm cherries and chocolate in the finish.

Rick Small suggests drinking within five years and enjoying with roasted chicken and sustainably grown potatoes. (14.7% alc.)

Novelty Hill 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 4,108 cases, $25

Excellent. Mike Januik’s all-star cast of sources

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Columbia Valley, 442 cases, $28

Excellent. The estate site for this Woodinville,

Wash., showpiece winery reveals blueberry and blackberry among big barrel notes of tobacco, toast and vanilla. The approachable drink is reminiscent of blackcap raspberry jam with ample acidity and drying tannins that will pair nicely with St. Louis-style baby back ribs. (14.2% alc.)

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 485 cases, $16

Recommended. This long-respected winery in

Sandpoint, Idaho, maintains its quality work with fruit from Coyote Canyon in the Horse

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Heaven Hills and Pleasant Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Enticing aromas of graham crackers, blueberries, black cherries, allspice and blackberries lead into a bold entry of the same dark fruit with bright acidity, a weighty midpalate and assertive tannins. (13.7% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Snake River Valley, 250 cases, $25

Outstanding! Winemakers likely will say their most prized product is their reserve Cab. Brad Pintler has reason to boast here. Sweet oak spices mingle with aromas of light cherries and red plums. It’s an honest and stylistic drink with more plums and sweet cherries for a texture that’s thick without being ponderous. Nicely balanced tannins and terrific acidity will marry well with flank steak marinated in garlic, spice and a cup of wine — although you may not want to sacrifice it from this bottle. (14.5% alc.)

Tefft Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 200 cases, $20

Excellent. Owner/winemaker Joel Tefft enjoys tra-

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recent releases dition, and this Cab is crafted in a food-friendly Old World manner. Cassis, blueberry and cedar aromas are joined by hints of molasses, leaf and barnyard. Pie cherries and more cassis carry into the mouth. Notes of crushed leaf on the midpalate — a sign of Cab Franc (5%) — and Thai chili sauce, amid a balanced structure should make this a nice match for meatloaf or lasagna. (13.0% alc.)

Three Rivers Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 1,900 cases, $21

Recommended. Five vineyards — Ahler, Bacchus,

Martinez, Katherine Leone and Aldercreek — set the table for this tantalizing Cab. It’s chockfull of chocolate and red fruit tones, with currants, juicy cherries, maple and Bosco syrup.

(14.5% alc.)

Whitestone Winery 2005 Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 160 cases, $32

Outstanding! Michael Haig’s picturesque vineyard near Wilbur, Wash., overlooks the waters backed up by Grand Coulee Dam. And there’s a lot to look at in this glass. Aromas include hints of black cherry jam, raspberries, vanilla and a freshly brewed dopio sprinkled with dark chocolate. A tilt brings in a wealth of supple

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black cherries and more raspberries. There’s an equilibrium of assertive acidity with a nice grip of tannin in the finish, opening the flood gates on all sorts of food applications. (14.0% alc.)

WINE REVIEWS

Pinot Noir Honeywood Winery 2004 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 700 cases, $24

William Church Winery

Excellent. Oregon’s capital city is home to the

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $32

Excellent. A growing number of Woodinville,

Wash., wineries tap into the Frenchman Hills, and the Balsleys filled this wine with fruit from Conner-Lee and Stillwater Creek vineyards.

Rainier cherries, strawberries, licorice and cinnamon notes put a charge into this. Silky tannins are backed by more sweet fruit and oak in the finish. (13.9% alc.)

state’s oldest winery, and here’s a Pinot loaded with fresh fruit outside and in. Aromas of raspberries, strawberries and pie cherries are backed by a scrape of vanilla bean. What awaits is a brightness of juicy strawberry and black cherry flavors with pleasing acidity and tannins in the background. Serve with wild salmon and a berry chutney. (11.0% alc.)

Honeywood Winery 2006 Pinot Noir

Woodward Canyon

Willamette Valley, 392 cases, $24

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 353 cases, $39

Recommended. Plums, black currants, a bar of

Hershey’s with Almonds and fresh-roasted coffee are embedded in this bold byproduct of Woodward Canyon Estate and DuBrul (Yakima Valley) vineyards, which includes Syrah (15%) and Cab Franc (7%). Pleasing chocolate forms the farewell. Rick Small notes this wine “will benefit from additional cellaring and should continue to develop for six years or more.” (14.4% alc.)

Outstanding! Mistletoe Vineyard, along the eastern flank of the Coastal Range, takes center stage in this tasty release. Hey, how about a nice Hawaiian Punch? Smack in the nose are strawberries, black cherries and cinnamon, but there’s more in the background with bay rum, violets and black pepper. On the palate, it’s very tasty with a nice presentation of the same fruit, throwing red currants and cranberries into the mix. In the background lies acidity over tannin, which is what many want in a Pinot Noir.

(13.7% alc.)

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Lake Chelan Winery 2006 Estate Pinot Noir

Sauvignon (20%). That grip fades quickly, overtaken by juicy acidity. Suggested fare includes lamb, duck or salmon. (13.7% alc.)

Columbia Valley, 402 cases, $28

Outstanding! Ray Sandidge helped raise the quality of winemaking in Prosser, Wash., and now he’s doing the same around Wenatchee. A nosing hints at strawberries and cherries with peppermint, vanilla, leaf tobacco and coffee.

Red fruit spills out in rich fashion, interrupted briefly by tannins from the infusion of Cabernet

Van Duzer Vineyards

blackberry flavors include toast and leather with a velvety touch, yet with enough tannin to even more greatly reward a bit of patience. (13.5% alc.)

Merlot

2005 Estate Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 7,000 cases, $30

Outstanding! Violets, blackberries, plum chutney, straw and a whiff of spicy/sweetness akin to H P Steak Sauce set the table for this deliciously structured Burgundy from Jim Kakacek. Huge

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2005 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills, 521 cases, $24

Outstanding! Jarrod Boyle continues to display talent in the vineyard and in the cellar.

Currants, coffee, cranberry, mocha and molasses aromatics transcend into a rich jammy berry bowl with more molasses and chocolate that lead to a zippy rather than gripping finish. (14.3% alc.)

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,684 cases, $18

Excellent. The estate Wahluke Slope Vineyard

received backing from Bacchus, Stillwater Creek and Dionysus sites for this straight Merlot. Inviting oak and dark berry aromas portend of what awaits. A beautiful entry comes with boysenberries and blackberries, sweeping across a broad and smooth structure. Licorice is in the midpalate and the tannins are akin to a nip of blackberry seed. Kristina Mielke van Loben Sels projects 10 years of life for this.

(13.8% alc.)

Ash Hollow 2005 Estate Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 450 cases, $26

Outstanding! Winemaker Steve Clifton creates a winner from this stellar bounce-back vintage in the Walla Walla Valley. Blueberries, cherries, freshly ground allspice, cranberries and cocoa powder fill the nose. Then come more blueberries and huckleberry flavors with more edgy blueberries and huckleberry in the flavors with pie cherry acidity, balanced tannins and oregano in the finish. Pair this with flank steak or roasted duck. (14.2% alc.)

Capstone Cellars 2005 Boushey Vineyards Merlot Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $23

Excellent. Longview, Wash., winemaker Roy

Bays values his long-term relationship with famed grower Dick Boushey, and he’s particularly excited about this release because a third of these grapes came via one of the new ENTAV clones, “The French say this is the best Merlot clone yet,” co-proprietor Joel McNelly said. It bodes well for the future. The result is a pretty easy-drinking Merlot laced with buckets of black fruit, black licorice, bittersweet chocolate and a ton of acidity. (13.4% alc.)

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 155 cases, $26

Recommended. This Hood River, Ore., winery fea-

tures Reid Vineyard and the collaboration in the glass starts with rose petals, black fruit, allspice and toasted oak aromas. It’s a big and sinewy Merlot with flavors of blueberries, raspberries, black strap molasses and Ovaltine. (12.5% alc.)

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recent releases Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 123,000 cases, $16

Recommended. Scents of cherry harvest can be found through this release, which incorporates a nice dose of Syrah (16%). It’s a lighter-style and easy drinker with Bing cherries, cocoa power and tea, so try this with wild salmon. (13.5% alc.)

Claar Cellars 2005 White Bluffs Merlot Columbia Valley, 240 cases, $19

Excellent. This operation by WSU Cougars shows a crimson element in this release, starting with dark cherries, a scoop of Ferdinand’s blueberry ice cream, plums, green peppercorns and bittersweet chocolate. It comes off as a more masculine Merlot in the mouth with more chocolate and cherry acidity that allow this freshman to fully mature by its senior season. (13.8% alc.)

Dakota Creek Winery 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 180 cases, $20

Excellent. Winemaker Kenneth Peck took har-

vests from Elephant Mountain near Yakima and Clifton Hill in Mattawa to his winery in Blaine, Wash. He emerged with expression, kicking open the doors to aromas of strawberry fruit leather, black cherries, vanilla, chocolate, coffee, root beer and bacon. The delivery is sweet with more strawberries and juicy cherries in pleasing balance, yielding to tannins that stand up at attention in the finish with a shot of espresso. (14.2% alc.)

Fidelitas Wines 2005 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills, 97 cases, $50

Excellent. For the first time, this Red Mountain

winery casts its spotlight on Paul Champoux’s Merlot, and it gets two thumbs-up. Aromas include black plums, black pepper, huckleberry, fresh-cut celery and Costa Rican coffee. It’s big on berries on the palate, particularly loganberries. Bold tannins and this vineyard’s legacy make this age-worthy. (14.9% alc.)

Flying Fish 2006 Merlot Washington, 15,000 cases, $15

Excellent. Winemaker Gordy Hill’s addition of

Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), Syrah (10%) and

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Cab Franc (1%) leads to a Merlot with a softer texture and sweet undertones of raspberries, black cherries and chocolate. The supple structure should serve it well alongside wild salmon, and a portion of every bottle sold is donated to Ocean Conservancy. (13.9% alc.)

Goose Ridge Vineyards 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 528 cases, $25

Recommended. This drinks like some expensive

Walla Walla reds with its expression of oak as espresso, cocoa powder and tar are found amid the blackberries, rich plums and green peppercorns. Enjoy while young. (14.8% alc.)

Olsen Hills 2006 Estate Merlot Columbia Valley, 224 cases, $19

Outstanding! The winery is young, but the vineyards have been in the family for decades, and this classic Washington Merlot is built for longevity. Licorice, black cherry and a whisper of cranberry guide the senses to a round, creamy and smooth entry of a cherry compote.

Tannins are pushed way in the back, and it finishes with a great piece of fine chocolate with more cherries. This is available only at the tasting room. (14.2% alc.)

Lopez Island Vineyards

WINE REVIEWS

mature with anise in the finish. (14.4% alc.)

Silver Lake Winery 2003 Grand Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 256 cases, $30

Recommended. Sagemoor and the estate Roza

Hills sites, with contributions of Cabernet Sauvignon (9%) and Syrah (4%), offered William Ammons the ability to create aromas of raspberries, chocolate mint and Kingsford briquettes. Good dark flavors of blackberries and cassis are structured in a rustic and food-friendly fashion. Suggested fare includes grilled sausages and stuffed bell peppers. (13.2% alc.)

Silver Lake Winery 2004 Reserve Merlot Rattlesnake Hills, 1,251 cases, $17

Outstanding! Winemaker William Ammons again targets an Old World-style offering with success. He gathered fruit from Roza Hills, Elephant Mountain, Smasne and Milbrandt vineyards for a plummy and berry Merlot with baker’s chocolate, bell pepper and smoky undertones. Narrowly focused tannins and good acidity carry into cocoa on the finish. Enjoy with a steak, grilled pork loin or artisan cheese.

(13.9% alc.)

Tefft Cellars

2005 Crawford Vineyards Merlot

2005 Merlot

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, $17

Rattlesnake Hills, 500 cases, $16

Outstanding! Vintners in the San Juan islands continue to import fruit from this Yakima site and export remarkable wine. In this case, Brent Charnley captures much of what Merlot drinkers hope for. Aromas of cherries, chocolate brownies, sage and cedar lead to the same sensations on a lush entry of tasty berries, embraced by supple tannins in the farewell. (14.8% alc.)

Excellent. Approachable in a variety of ways, this

Novelty Hill

Whitestone Winery

2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot

2005 Lake Roosevelt Shore Vineyard Merlot

Columbia Valley, 478 cases, $25

Columbia Valley, 160 cases, $28

Outstanding! When Mike Januik began his asso-

Excellent. This site near Wilbur, Wash., has been

ciation with this estate site in the Frenchman Hills, others soon followed. This delicious drink shows why. Blueberries, blackberries, chocolate, allspice and a piece of Coffee Nip candy factor into the bouquet. More of the berries await with a beautifully smooth entry, then there’s a pinch of green peppercorn in the midpalate and a framing of tannin. It’s luscious and

in production since 1994, but this vintage marked the first time the Haigs retained all their crop. The result centers in red-toned fruit with cinnamon, tobacco, parsley and chocolate aromas. Lush is the entry of strawberries, Rainier cherries and raspberries. A balanced structure allows espresso and fresh strawberries to hang in the finish. (14.6% alc.)

Yakima Valley vintner showcases cherries, allspice, sarsaparilla and tar notes in the aromas.

It’s backed on the palate with bold blackberries and dark plums that stand up to up-front tannins. Anise, herbs and pie cherries on the midpalate are pulled through by good acidity that bodes well for a pork chop. (13% alc.)

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Woodward Canyon Winery 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,022 cases, $39

Excellent. Estate fruit from the Walla Walla Valley

is blended with Merlot from Red Mountain’s Klipsun Vineyard, and the power play shows.

It’s fully loaded with raspberries, Chukar Cherries, Starbucks coffee liqueur and chocolate notes. Delicious now, but it’s long-lived and a keeper. Rick Small issued a note that, “It will require some patience.” Don’t worry. Many believe his wines cellar better than anyone’s in the Northwest. (14.5% alc.)

Syrah Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2005 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Block 17 Syrah Horse Heaven Hills, 273 cases, $42

Recommended. It’s Syrah from the Sara Lee clone

and a bit more with other Rhône varieties such as Grenache (13%), Roussanne (7%) and Viognier in the mix. Sweet blueberries, crushed leaf, moist earth and cigar box aromas funnel into more blueberries on the tongue, with pleasing Craisin tartness on the midpalate and lightly chalky tannins. (14.5% alc.)

Capstone Cellars 2005 Boushey Vineyards Syrah Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $28

Excellent. This Longview, Wash., winery has a

long-standing relationship for some of this coveted crop. Justice is done, and it’s definitely Syrah, with purple fruit, inviting oak and pleasing spice aromas. Creamy and rich are the flavors of bold boysenberries, blackberries and Bing cherries. Amazing amounts of acidity vs. tannin make this nice now, and it will be interesting over time. (13.4% alc.)

Carpenter Creek Winery

Valley’s Elephant Mountain Vineyard. Sweet chocolate and sizzling bacon aromas give way to flavors of dark cherries with chocolate. A creamy midpalate shows off nice acidity before the tannins step in and stretch out the fruit some more. Enjoy with spaghetti slathered by a rich meat sauce and sun-dried tomatoes.

(14.9% alc.)

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2005 Opulence Syrah Washington, 225 cases, $40

Excellent. Fruit from McKinley Springs Vineyard

in the Horse Heaven Hills supports the reserve release by this North Idaho winery, which lives up to the proprietary name. Rich black fruit notes and the variety’s sometimes tell-tale bacon aromas transcend into a pleasing, dark and juicy drink with more of the same flavors joined by supple tannins and bright acidity.

(14.7% alc.)

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah

2004 Syrah Washington, 531 cases, $28

comes an intriguing Syrah featuring nice older fruit in the form of dusty cherries and raspberries with the leaf, and a malted milk shake.

Tannins arrive early on, met by citrusy acidity in the midpalate that bodes well for further aging.

(13.7% alc.)

Excellent. In a sense, this is winemaker Warren

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2005 Sarah Lee Syrah Washington, 134 cases, $36

Excellent. Perhaps no other Northwest winery

displays as much diversity with this Rhône red, and few do it as well as this young and vibrant Idaho operation. This release is named after the winery’s matriarch and devoted to the Yakima

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Goose Ridge Vineyards 2004 Syrah Columbia Valley, 500 cases, $25

Excellent. This Richland, Wash., winery continues to expand, which means more Syrah such as this will be available. Expressions feature bacon fat, blue fruit, coffee, green peppercorns, fresh green beans and cherry cola in every direction. There’s a definite focus of wild blueberries with the smoothness of chocolate syrup, and ample acidity for aging. (14.2% alc.)

2004 Reserve Syrah

a ton of time driving from Idaho’s “Lake City” to Washington wine country, and the investment consistently pays off. Frenchman Hills fruit creates a sense of cruise control, igniting the senses with a burmashave of fruit as black raspberries, blueberries and Rainier cherries filter in through the sunroof along with hints of rose petals and cedar. The intake continues with a lean and clean mixture of more brambleberries and cherries. There’s no smoking of the tires, despite the wine’s high octane. Instead, chocolaty tannins and shiny acidity make for a smooth ride home that lasts for miles. Choose a well-marbled Angus New York steak over roadkill. (15.2% alc.)

Recommended. Out of Mount Vernon, Wash.,

Outstanding! Chateau Ste. Michelle alum Melanie Krause heads out on her own at home in Idaho, debuting in eye-catching fashion. With two barrels from Sawtooth and Skyline vineyards, she has crafted an expressive bowl of blueberry jam, smoky bacon and silky milk chocolate. It dazzles in the finish with lingonberries and a late burst of tannin. (13.9% alc.)

Excellent. The Wades and their RiverBend Vineyard produced a smoky and sensual Syrah that’s also big on blueberries and Bing cherries with alfalfa for complexity. The plush and juicy structure carries the brambleberries through to the long finish of rich chocolate.

(14.1% alc.)

Goose Ridge Vineyards

Coeur d’Alene Cellars

Snake River Valley, 44 cases, $27

Wahluke Slope, 156 cases, $40

Outstanding! Winemaker Warren Schutz spends

Washington, 420 cases, $18

2006 Syrah

2005 Syrah

Washington, 183 cases, $36

2004 Signature Series Syrah

Cinder Wines

Fielding Hills Winery

Schutz’s “declassified” Syrah program, but the all-star assemblage of Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills), Stillwater Creek (Frenchman Hills), Rob Andrews (HHH) and Boushey (Yakima Valley) vineyards is no slouch.

Beautiful barrel aromas of coffee and caramel are joined by raspberry and black pepper. The dark and lovely drink is very cherry with supple tannins and espresso grounds in the finish.

Suggested food includes dishes featuring salmon or bacon that incorporate Asian spices.

(15.1% alc.)

Columbia Valley, 98 cases, $40

Excellent. One of Washington’s top hired guns,

Charlie Hoppes, makes the wines for the Monsons. And this limited production features dark black cherries, coffee, soy sauce, charcoal and Hershey’s chocolate with sturdy tannins and good acidity that will allow them to age.

(14.6% alc.)

Kana Winery 2005 Syrah Yakima Valley, 120 cases, $31

Outstanding! Those looking for hedonism and who want it now in their Syrah should contact this vibrant winery in downtown Yakima. Treeripened cherries, plums, vanilla, cardamom and green peppercorns filter into a plush entry of plums and ripe blackberries. Look for peppermint in the midpalate. It’s a penetrating drinknow Syrah that’s smooth as could be. Enjoy it with duck breast or sweetbreads. (15.9% alc.)

Kalamar Winery 2003 Syrah Yakima Valley, 87 cases, $30

Excellent. This diminutive winery in Bonney Lake,

Wash., continues to offer pleasure-seeking Syrah, loaded with mountain berries, cigar leaf, mocha and vanilla aromas and flavors. Sturdy tannins carry into a nice sweet chocolate finish.

(14.9% alc.)

Coeur d’Alene Cellars

Koenig Vineyards

2005 Switchback Red

2005 Three Vineyard Cuveé Syrah

Washington, 225 cases, $25

Snake River Valley, 280 cases, $20

Excellent. Clonal selection is the buzz around

Excellent. Some of the best Syrah in Idaho

this Syrah bottling as it focuses on the Joseph Phelps clone within the Elephant Mountain Vineyard near Konnowac Pass in the west end of the Yakima Valley. A dense nose of black cherries, black currants and black plums whisks around lightly charred and chocolaty oak.

Chewy cherries and blackberries smooth out sweetly on the midpalate in thick fashion with moderate tannins. (14.3% alc.)

comes from this winery and the Williamson, Hells Canyon and Albers sites. There are huge berry aromas among the reserve barrel tones of toast and roasted coffee beans. It’s smooth as silk from start to finish on the palate with strawberries and blueberries. In comes a pinch of peppercorns on the midpalate and it’s loaded with acidity. Look for this to get even better in the next two years. (14.1% alc.)

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recent releases Novelty Hill 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,909 cases, $22

Outstanding! State-of-the-art facilities in Woodinville, Wash., and a dab of Cab (2%) helped Mike Januik add to his legacy with this wine. There’s a hint of toasted oak, but it’s mostly black cherries and sweet herbal notes in the aromas. Creamy, smooth and dense is the entry to the palate with stretched flavors of blackberries, caramel and light chocolate, sized up with magnificent balance. Cook yours rare.

(14.4% alc.)

Novelty Hill 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 489 cases, $28

Recommended. Brambleberries, graham cracker,

green peppercorns, tobacco and Buzz Bean notes abound in this zesty release with foodfriendly acidity. (14.4% alc.)

Olsen Hills

cherry candy and mocha. The smooth entry centers on berries and black pepper with intensity and firm acidity. It’s got some shoulders and may not appeal to everyone, but it stood out to us. (14.3% alc.)

Eleven Winery

Red Mountain, 3,267 cases, $20

2005 Windy Ridge Vineyard Malbec

Recommended. Phelps clone fruit helped

Horse Heaven Hills, 121 cases, $27

owner/winemaker Keith Pilgrim capture aromas of blackberries, Bing cherries, green peppercorns and Kingsford briquettes. Blackberries and pie cherries spill on the palate with an amazing amount of acidity and a remarkable absence of tannin. Enjoy this with charbroiled buffalo burgers. (13.5% alc.)

Columbia Valley, 1,226 cases, $24

Excellent. Winemaker Holly Turner tapped into

Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C’est Syrah Beaux

Yakima Valley, 402 cases, $30

Columbia Valley, 300 cases, $38

Recommended. An inviting nose of plums, cher-

Outstanding! Lloyd Anderson’s drive for success with his top-flight wine meant vineyards in four AVAs. And this winemaker from Shelton, Wash., holed out in his combination of Destiny Ridge (60%), Red Mountain’s Ranch at the End of the Road (17%), Elephant Mountain (13%) and Boushey vineyards. Sweet and inviting American oak, backed by black fruit and tobacco aromatics, makes you want to get after this wine. Next comes a punch in the mouth with a velvet glove from black and blue fruit.

Blackberry with the seed and boysenberry jam on toast came to mind. It’s rich and tongue coating, but skillfully backed by nice acidity.

(14.6% alc.)

Sleeping Dog Wines 2004 Syrah Yakima Valley, 115 cases, $18

Recommended. Sometimes alcohol can run wild

with Syrah, but not this time for Larry Oates in Benton City, Wash., in the blending of Buoy and Rivers Bend grapes. Bing cherries, stewed plums, crushed filberts and dark chocolate are flushed out in a medium body that finishes with remarkably rich chocolate. (13.9% alc.)

Walter Dacon Wines 2006 C’est Syrah Belle

Silver Lake Winery

Columbia Valley, 450 cases, $30

2005 Roza Hills Vineyard Reserve Syrah

Recommended. The building blocks are similar to

Rattlesnake Hills, 440 cases, $17

his more expensive Beaux, but Lloyd Anderson shows stylistic differences by using French oak and co-fermenting with Viognier (6%). Aussie Black Licorice, cherry/vanilla soda, leather, pine and some peach blossom lead the bouquet.

Black raspberry and boysenberry flavors are met by a pinch of cracked pepper and some sage on the midpalate. Still, there’s a theme of smooth elegance. (14.6% alc.)

Excellent. Rare is the reserve Syrah available at

this price, but William Ammons brings this to life with a theme of blackberries, chocolate and toasted oak. It’s deliciously smooth with berries, plums and sun-dried tomato acidity. Pair with a plate of spaghetti, a bowl of stew or braised lamb shanks. (13.7% alc.)

Steppe Cellars 2006 Syrah

Widgeon Hill Winery

Columbia Valley, 146 cases, $19

2003 HRP Ranch Area 51 Syrah

Outstanding! Winemaker Anke-Freimuth Wildman

Yakima Valley, 94 cases, $22

tapped into Airport Ranch in the Yakima Valley and her husband’s StoneTree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for an impressive debut vintage at this new Sunnyside, Wash., winery. A sweet oak nose includes blackberries, vanilla creme,

Recommended. The legacy of Rhett Mills’ late

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

but expect to see more from this AVA.

2005 Syrah

2004 Klingele Vineyard Syrah

ries, red pepper, espress and tar carries on through to the flavors and a finish of hanging tannins and fresh-brewed coffee. Ray Sandidge suggests serving it with a hunter’s quarry or aging well into the next decade. (13% alc.)

Excellent. Vineyard-designated Malbecs are rare,

Three Rivers Winery

C.R. Sandidge Wines

Recommended. It’s all estate and all Syrah with

Malbec

2002 Estate Vineyard Syrah

some minerality, citrus, straw and dark fruit aromas. The medium body features notes of boysenberries in cream. It’s available only in the Prosser, Wash., tasting room. (14.2% alc.)

Columbia Valley, 271 cases, $23

not lost on the palate. However, the focus turns to homemade cherry pie and the juicy filling, its acidity sweeping over the tannin in a sweet style. (13.5% alc.)

Terra Blanca Vintners

Windy Ridge, Weinbau, Ahler and Boushey vineyards for Syrah and Martinez Vineyard for Cabernet Sauvignon (2%) to produce a rush of plums, pie cherries and sassafras. Red currants, green peppercorns and mint leaf make their way into a midpalate of good acidity. There is a wealth of tannins in the finish, along with some leaf tobacco notes. (14.9% alc.)

2006 Estate Syrah

WINE REVIEWS

father continues to show well as Joel, the winery’s founder, crafted this from Harold Pleasant’s Ranch in Prosser, Wash. Raspberry fruit leather, forest floor and bacon aromas are S U M M E R 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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Blackberries, blueberries, Rainier cherries and a sprinkling of both red pepper flakes and cocoa powder will catch your breath. The entry is smooth and sweet with Chukar Cherries and boysenberries, a structure accented by a bit of seed tannin. That leanness in the finish merely shows off the acidity that invites food. (12.9% alc.)

Goose Ridge Vineyards 2005 Reserve Malbec Columbia Valley, 96 cases, $40

Recommended. Just four barrels of this were

made, making it a true reserve. Blueberries, toast, chocolate, cigar ash and red pepper flakes waft up. Black cherries, plums and blackberry pie flavors give way to more toasty oak in the finish. (14.3% alc.)

Lopez Island Vineyards

cinating flavors of black raspberries and even candied orange peel. It’s a lighter-bodied wine that should pair well with pasta or salmon.

(13.3% alc.)

Maryhill Winery 2004 Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 2,400 cases, $18

Excellent. Upstream from the Columbia Gorge,

this winery shines with rosé made of this Italian grape, and there’s a lot to like with this red version, too. Candied cherries, fruit leather, spiced apple, pipe tobacco and white pepper fill the nose. It’s big and spicy on the palate as more strawberry fruit leather and spiced apple await in the mouth along with a blast of Big Red chewing gum in the warm finish. (14.5% alc.)

entry of ripe black cherries and spice. Enjoy now with flank steak, London broil or game.

(13.5% alc.)

Zefina Cellars 2004 Sangiovese Horse Heaven Hills, 350 cases, $20

Outstanding! Winemaker Rob Chowanietz began his era at the Alder Ridge facility with this vintage, and the native of British Columbia produced a stunning wine. Scents of boysenberries, chocolate and a zesty cranberry reduction sauce lead into a pleasing palate of juicy purple fruit and a spoonful of strawberry jam. There are accents of leather, coffee and more chocolate, and the focus is on acidity rather than tannin. (14.5% alc.)

Cabernet Franc

2005 Crawford Vineyard Malbec

Stina’s Cellars

Yakima Valley, 30 cases, $20

2005 Sangiovese

Eaton Hill Winery

Recommended. Little more than one barrel was

Columbia Valley, 217 cases, $25

2005 Eaton Hill Vineyards Cabernet Franc

set aside for this single variety bottling. It’s rare to see this Bordeaux building block on its own at this price. Marionberries and dusty black cherries penetrate the senses, along with black pepper, cedar and allspice tones. Firm tannins and solid acidity strike a nice balance. (14.2% alc.)

Excellent. Winemaker Perry Preston’s expression

Yakima Valley, 60 cases, $14

Sangiovese Barking Frog Winery 2006 Sangiovese Washington, 127 cases, $28

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Ron Helbig does

things differently from his Newberg, Ore., neighbors, starting with a glass “cork” and driving to the Yakima Valley for Crawford and Chandler Reach fruit. The final product stands out with very expressive notes of black currants, cranberries, cherry cobbler and dried strawberries. A smooth entry and luscious midpalate shine alongside the enormous acidity.

(15% alc.)

Marchetti Wines

preserves the high-toned fruit character and food-friendly acidity. It’s abundant with hints of red currants, pie cherries, pimento, juniper and paprika. The palate is focused on black cherries, cherry tomatoes and crushed leaf. (13.4% alc.)

Walter Dacon Wines 2006 Sangiovese Red Mountain, 188 cases, $30

Excellent. Owner/winemaker Lloyd Anderson

bought this fruit from Ranch at the End of the Road, the highest-elevation block on Red Mountain. Aromas feature cherry fruit leather, raspberry, peppermint candy and a visit to a caramel corn shop. There’s a depth of fruit in the flavors, starting with a cut into a cherry pie with blackberries in the midpalate and strawberries in the finish. The structure is typical of this Tuscan grape — bright acidity over tannin.

(14.9% alc.)

Waving Tree Winery 2005 Sangiovese-Cabernet

2006 Sangiovese

Columbia Valley, 219 cases, $20

Columbia Valley, 25 cases, $26

Excellent. Legally, this Super Tuscan-style blend could be classified as a straight Sangio because there’s just 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of Bing cherries, cardamom and cooked bacon drop into an opulent

Excellent. This Olympia, Wash., winery has craft-

ed a delicious, food-friendly Sangiovese. It opens with aromas of black pepper, spices, sweet herbs and strawberries, followed by fas-

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Outstanding! Someone searching for a classic example of this overlooked, food-friendly grape can stop in Granger, Wash. It’s varietally correct with red currants, cherries and sweet herbal and grassy aromas. And winemaker Gary Rogers nailed the palate, too, with red-toned fruit of pie cherries and strawberries, a bit of crushed leaf, bright acidity and very little oak tones. Delicious from stem to stern, this wine shows why people love French-made Bordeaux because it’s not overly alcoholic and wonderful with food such as red meat, lamb and salmon.

(13% alc.)

Fielding Hills Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope, 119 cases, $30

Outstanding! The Wades seem to have no trou-

ble ripening any of their estate RiverBend fruit and sent out a charming and well-made wine from their East Wenatchee winery. Dusty cherries, sweet berries, earthiness and Baker’s chocolate aromas sing into a mediumbodied drink of Bing cherries and vanilla.

(14.1% alc.)

Hillside Estate 2006 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, 750 cases, $23 CDN

Recommended. Bill and Kathy Carpenter are cele-

brating the 25th anniversary of this Naramata Bench winery. And estate chef Peter Young won’t have difficulty with this wine. Raspberry, rhubarb and dark strawberry notes stand out, accented by crushed leaf and sarsaparilla.

Things pick up on the palate after the easy entry. (12.8% alc.)

Hip Chicks Do Wine 2006 Smith Canyon Vineyards Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 98 cases, $24

Excellent. The “Chicks” continue their forays into

Eastern Washington, sourcing this time from the Columbia Basin. Cherry, raspberry, currant and dark chocolate tones mingle along an elegant and balanced palate with a modest finish that should pair nicely with a bowl of beef burgundy stew. (12.5% alc.)

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recent releases Wind River Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills, 350 cases, $25

Excellent. The view from Joel Goodwillie’s little

slice of heaven in Husum, Wash., between Mount Adams and Mount Hood, looks even better with a glass of this rather hedonistic Cab Franc. Black fruit, sarsaparilla, yams and toast aromas carry on through in a tasty and juicy offering that’s also shows strawberry/rhubarb compote but restrained alcohol. (13% alc.)

Red blends Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2005 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Destiny Red Horse Heaven Hills, 223 cases, $45

Recommended. Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) leads

this classic Bordeaux blend with Cab Franc (13%), Merlot (11%), Petit Verdot (7%) and Malbec. The estate assemblage shines the light on blueberries, black raspberries, chocolate and cherries tones, backed by solid balance. (14.6% alc.)

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2005 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Quarry Butte Red Horse Heaven Hills, 1,184 cases, $20

Excellent. Jarrod Boyle chose estate Cabernet

Sauvignon (48%), Merlot (38%), Malbec (7%), Syrah (4%) and Cab Franc for what blended out into aromatics of blackberries, cedar, black cherries, vanilla, smoky oak and black pepper.

A rock-solid entry of boysenberries, blueberries and blueberries is accented by some minerality and moderate tannins. This is easy to drink now, if you can still find some. (14.6% alc.)

WINE REVIEWS

(60%) with Syrah (40%). The results are whiffs of red peppercorns, cherry wood, dried strawberries, black cherries and chocolate. There are more cherries on the medium-bodied palate with some anise, good acidity and mild tannins, capped by bittersweet chocolate.

Foxy Roxy Wine Co. 2005 Vixen Red Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $18

Recommended. The name, combined with Rhonda

Davis’ eye-catching polka dot label, targets the chick market. And yet, it’s an impressive foodfriendly wine. Aromas of currants, golden raisins, moist earth and garden herbs funnel into a flush drink of dark plums with more currants. Lofty acidity, smooth tannins and low alcohol all bode well for a dinner date with Mr. Big. (12.5% alc.)

Hip Chicks Do Wine NV Drop Dead Red Washington/Oregon, 500 cases, $20

Excellent. Portland pair Renee Neely and Laurie Lewis don’t seem to mind straddling the Columbia River for wine, evidenced by this blend — Merlot (38%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%) and Cab Franc — that’s 67% from Washington. Boysenberries, black cherries, cedar, gun metal and crushed walnut aromas give way to flavors of plums and more cherries.

There’s a general sense of juicy richness throughout and a flick of black pepper at the end. (13% alc.)

Hip Chicks Do Wine 2006 Wine Bunny Rouge Oregon/Washington, 500 cases, $16

Ash Hollow

Recommended. It took some hopping around the

2005 Nine Mile Red

Northwest come harvest time as the Rogue, Columbia and Yakima valleys contributed to the mix of Merlot (38%), Malbec (26%), Sangiovese (17%), Cab Franc (13%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Working a Rabbit’s worm brings out a rather shy nose of huckleberries and oak, but it’s prolific and rich on the palate. Chocolatecovered cherries, huckleberries, blueberries and cherry cola flavors scurry about in fun fashion.

(13% alc.)

Walla Walla Valley, 1,010 cases, $22

Outstanding! This Walla Walla winery taps into both estate vineyards, the large eponymous site west of town and Bella Terra. The resulting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) and Merlot by winemaker Steve Clifton is a cheery greeting reminiscent of pitted Bing cherries among garden-fresh greens and then chocolate. On the attack, it’s sour cherry candy with smooth blueberries and chocolate flavors in mouth-filling fashion. Juicy acidity soon follows, then the tannins give it some traction. (14.5% alc.)

Kana Winery 2005 Workingman’s Red Columbia Valley, 495 cases, $16

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Cab-Merlot Columbia Valley, 406 cases, $18

Excellent. Michael Sebastiani grew up with a his-

torical wine background, so he knows how to create food-friendly balance by taming alcohol.

And yet, he does it in a fruit-forward manner. In this case, it’s a 50/50 split that’s big on blueberries, blackberries and black cherries with trailing hints of black licorice, soy sauce and chocolate.

(12.5% alc.)

Eleven Winery 2005 La Ronde Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 71 cases, $24

Excellent. Matt Albee and his young winery on

Bainbridge Island, Wash., took the savvy step of sourcing from this sometimes-underrated appellation and backing Cabernet Sauvignon W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Recommended. Here’s an unusual blend of

Zinfandel (45%), Malbec (30%) and Petit Verdot that is intended for everyday enjoyment. Dark strawberries, spicy cherries, violets, green peppercorns and sassafras come together on a juicy entry for a good drink. This will be ideal with flatbreads. (15.7% alc.)

Lopez Island Vineyards 2005 Crawford Vineyard Cabernet-Merlot Yakima Valley, 240 cases, $23

Excellent. The name of this release might be con-

fusing, but there’s nothing clumsy with the winemaking. Cab (70%) is joined by Merlot (15%) and Malbec (15%) to form an enjoyable drink. It prominently displays sweet fruit notes of blackberries, raspberries and cherries, as well as 24 months in oak with nuttiness, toast and baker’s chocolate. (14% alc.)

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Lake Chelan Winery 2004 Maximum I Meritage Columbia Valley, 202 cases, $45

Recommended. The blending of estate Cabernet

Sauvignon (64%) from Rivers Bend in the Yakima Valley with Merlot off Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope is dominated by dark chocolate cake with raspberries, plums, green peppercorns and bold tannins. Enjoy with duck or goose. (13.8% alc.)

Olsen Estates 2006 Rouge Coteaux Columbia Valley, 156 cases, $37

Excellent. More Rhône blends are being made,

and here’s another example with Cinsault (33%), Mourvedre (27%), Grenache (27%) and Syrah (13%), all from this Yakima Valley estate.

Aromas of brambleberries, including blackberry cheesecake, transcend into more sweet purple fruit on the palate. There’s bright acidity and great texture with just a sliver of tannin and a dab of sweet marionberry in the finish. (14.2% alc.)

Page Cellars 2005 Libra de Carta Columbia Valley, 250 cases, $30

Recommended. This Woodinville, Wash., winery

took fruit from Shaw, Red Mountain Vineyards, Conner-Lee and Milbrandt sites for a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Merlot (10%) and Cab Franc that’s cherry-based with juicy blackberries and cranberries. Hints of kitchen spices and portabello mushrooms, along with good acidity, make this a versatile food wine. (14.3% alc.)

(42%) and Sangiovese (29%) — and Cab Sauv (29%). Cassis, strawberries, black raspberries, fresh green beans, cola and allspice smoothly simmer in a medium body on through to a finish of oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. (13.9% alc.)

Stina’s Cellars 2005 Montage Recommended. From the Tacoma suburb of

University Place comes a bold and expressive blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (30%) and Cab Franc. Tinges of blueberries, red currants, Boylan Cane Cola, plums and anise are carried by racy acidity and met by assertive and chocolaty tannins. (14.9% alc.)

TimberRock Winery NV Trio Red Wine Washington, 300 cases, $18

Excellent. Idaho vintner/veterinarian Kevin Rogers isn’t afraid to seek a second opinion from Washington winemaker Robert Smasne.

Consider the operation a success. Phinny Hill in the Horse Heavens provided all of the Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (34%), Syrah (10%) and even some Carmenere (1%).

The aromatics include spicy plums, raspberries, green peppercorns, thyme and grape Jolly Rancher candy. Flathead Lake blackcap raspberries fill the mouth, along with plums and cardamom notes. Its slightly chalky structure will go great with a meaty lasagna.

(13.9% alc.)

Other reds

Columbia Valley, 850 cases, $36

Kana Winery

Recommended. A sketching of an alert logger is

2005 Les Vignes de Marcoux Vineyard Old Vines Lemberger

2005 The Spellbinder

Yakima Valley, 317 cases, $20

Recommended. Back in the day, these vines, plant-

ed in 1979, were holdings in the historic Red Willow Vineyard on the western edge of Yakima Valley’s agricultural zone. Now, they produce a smooth and sweet wine with mild tannins and big acidity. Descriptors include notes of black currant jam, cherries, five star spice and Red Man chewing tobacco. (15.8% alc.)

Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, $18

Marchetti Wines

Excellent. Trey Busch of Basel Cellars fame

2007 Tempranillo

struck out on his own, and this blend should him get on restaurant wine lists. It leads with two food-friendly varieties — Cabernet Franc

Recommended. Owner/winemaker Rich LaRosa

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2006 Petit Verdot Columbia Valley, 88 cases, $23

Excellent. This year marks the 100th anniversary

of the Olsen family in Prosser, Wash., and you’ll have to visit its new tasting room to grab this impressive bottle. Sweet aromatic fruit reminiscent of huckleberries, plums and Jolly Rancher grape candy includes hints of gun metal and cedar. On the attack are really ripe strawberries, cherry pipe tobacco and hints of stewed plums and pepper. Tannins with a bit of grip accent this wine’s pleasing length. (14.2% alc.)

Pentâge Winery 2006 Gamay Okanagan Valley, 125 cases, $25 CDN

sary of Paul Gardner’s estate Vintage Ridge Vineyard, and it consistently produces one of the best Gamays in the Northwest. The nose includes dusty black cherries, homemade coldpacked President plums, fresh-brewed coffee and vanilla bean. Blueberries, vanilla and fresh cherry juice bring the natural food-friendly acidity to life. (13.5% alc.)

C.R. Sandidge Wines

Sleight of Hand

Olsen Hills

Excellent. This vintage marked the 10th anniver-

Recommended. “The freeze” created a moribund vintage in 2004, but Rick Small’s vineyard lots returned for a blend of Merlot (68%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Cabernet Sauvignon (11%) and Petit Verdot. Those devoted to French press coffee will enjoy the dark toffee and rich, dense blackberries that comes with an early plunge into this sturdily built wine. However, it is arguable that wines from this Lowden legend age better than anyone else’s in the Northwest. Small predicts 10 years or more.

(14.4% alc.)

displayed on the bottle, and there’s a brawny quality to this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (31%), Malbec (18%) and Syrah from Kestrel, Klingele and StoneTree vineyards.

There are definite woodsy aromas, but it’s backed by mountain berries, chocolate and a bite of blackberry seed in the finish. Suggested fare includes chicken cacciatore. (13.7% alc.)

Recommended. A few years ago, a best-of-class award in California with this grape raised the winery’s profile. Coffee and chocolate fiends will lap this up. Big Zin notes of berry candy mix with leaf tobacco. That coffee gets a warmup in the finish with a side of tiramisu. (15.5% alc.)

2005 Estate Red Wine

2003 Tri*Umph Red Wine

2004 Whistle Punk Red Wine

2005 Zinfandel

Woodward Canyon Walla Walla Valley, 453 cases, $59

Outstanding! Ray Sandidge created one of the most costly wines among the Lake Chelan group, and this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Malbec (28%) and Merlot from Kestrel and Klingele ranks among the best. Dusty cherries, white chocolate, vanilla bean and earth accents evolve into a tasty group of plums, Maraschino cherries and coffee. It’s very juicy and very lush with broad acidity and terrific tannins. (13.9% alc.)

Maryhill Winery Columbia Valley, 2,300 cases, $18

Yakima Valley, 217 cases, $28

C.R. Sandidge Wines Yakima Valley, 256 cases, $50

Italian immigrant. LaRosa prefers Old World methods to make food-friendly wines. This Tempranillo opens with aromas of rhubarb and finishes with satisfying flavors of creamy cherries. It’s a round, balanced wine. (13.5% alc.)

Columbia Valley, 25 cases, $28

learned winemaking from his grandfather, an

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 0 8

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2006 Tempranillo Umpqua Valley, 736 cases, $24

Outstanding! This red Spanish grape thrives in

Southern Oregon, and Stephen Reustle also found success with it. Sweet oak aromas mingle with hints of black cherries, violets and blueberries. Next come cranberries, more blueberries and cherries with the slightly drying tannins one associates with this grape soon after bottling. The cranberry acidity provides a solid footing for food pairing. (13.1% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Petite Sirah Southern Oregon, 222 cases, $35

Excellent. Patrick Spangler fought the law and

won the right to go the P.S. route. No longer must he label this wine as Durif. His relief produced an aromatic reward of plums, black currants, black walnuts and Bing cherries. It’s more of the same sweet fruit on the big, yet plush, palate that showcases acidity rather than tannin. Grill up a tri-tip or teriyaki-marinated flank steak. (12.4% alc.)

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recent releases Starling Lane Winery 2006 Maréchal Foch Vancouver Island, 266 cases, $24 CDN

Outstanding! The three estate vineyards seem to be in supreme command of this often-unappreciated French hybrid, named for the final leader of World War I Allied forces. Chocolate-covered cherry and espresso aromas spill out in dress uniform across the palate. Its smooth structure gains refinement as added notes of pie cherry acidity in the midpalate are joined by hints of fresh chocolate-chip zucchini bread. And there’s a cherry gum drop awaiting in the finish. (13.5% alc.)

Waving Tree Winery 2005 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Nebbiolo Horse Heaven Hills, 99 cases, $40

Recommended. Few in the Northwest outside of

candy corn, caramel corn, lemons, limes and orchard blossoms. The flavors focus on citrus fruit with more lemons and limes, sweet green tea in the midpalate and orange rind in the finish. (13.9% alc.)

Recommended. Michael Dinn and Heidi Noble

Columbia Valley, 234 cases, $13

Recommended. Inviting vanilla and toast aromas

are joined by bananas, jicama, fresh-mowed grass and pears. The attack is an easy approach of peaches and pears, followed by more jicama and balancing hint of lime acidity.

(13.5% alc.)

David Hill Winery & Vineyards 2006 Estate Reserve Chardonnay

Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery

2005 Grenache

2006 Townsend Jack Unoaked Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 225 cases, $25

Okanagan Valley, 2,000 cases, $13 CDN

Recommended. This small winery in Goldendale,

Outstanding! A sister winery of Mission Hill, this

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2005 Connor-Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 377 cases, $18

Excellent. Spokane vintner Kristina Mielke-van

Loben Sels expends a lot of effort in the Columbia Basin, and this vineyard rewarded her with grapes that help produce a sweet bouquet of poached pear, toasted nuts, Orange Peanut candy and lemons. There’s a rich burst of orange oil on the palate with blanched almonds on the creamy midpalate and 7Up acidity in the finish. Suggested fare includes scallops, halibut, swordfish or poultry. (13.8% alc.)

Bonair Winery 2005 Chateau Puryear Vineyard Chardonnay Rattlesnake Hills, 96 cases, $20

Excellent. Admirers of fruit-forward Chardonnay

will not be disappointed here. There’s just a hint of oak with aromas of pears, pineapple, apple and lemon. It’s nice and creamy in the mouth with tropical fruit and ample acidity.

(13.1% alc.)

Cancilla Cellars 2006 Select Dijon Clones Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 200 cases, $26

Excellent. Estate grapes from Clones 76 and 95

allowed owner/winemaker Ken Cancilla to produce a versatile Chardonnay that begins with W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

strive for wines that pair with food, and this is yet another solid example. It’s no fruit bomb, particularly in the aromas that highlight grassiness and fresh-cut potato alongside orchard fruit. Apple and pears lead the flavors, then joined by more herbal notes, minerality and honeydew melon. Its food-friendly acidity leads to thoughts of antipasto and appetizers of melon and prosciutto. (13% alc.)

Willamette Valley, 283 cases, $18

Waving Tree Winery

Chardonnay

Joie Wines Naramata Bench, 1,320 cases, $21

2006 White Bluffs Chardonnay

Recommended. Expectations of oak are realized

White wines

mas. A swirl brings in a sweet and creamy entry with more orchard fruit and pineapples, backed by butterscotch and lemony acidity. (14.5% alc.)

2007 Unoaked Chardonnay

Claar Cellars

the Columbia Gorge area work with this Piedmont grape, so any single bottling attracts attention. And this warrants more than some others because of the Tootsie Roll theme inside and out. Backing emerges in aromas of zesty citrus, sarsaparilla and black cherries. The structure comes with bright acidity and edgy tannins. (13.8% alc.)

Wash., offers a Rhône released with light cherries, fresh dill, toasted oak and red peppercorns. (13.6% alc.)

WINE REVIEWS

as a result of 11 months in barrel, but there’s much more in the aromas, including fresh linen, candy corn, starfruit, sliced almonds, citrus and caramel. Flavors continue with butterscotch, artichoke hearts and light tropical fruit acidity. Enjoy with a seafood fettucini served with a cream sauce. (13.8% alc.)

Left Coast Cellars 2005 Estate Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 80 cases, $31

Recommended. Smoky aromas along with lemons and coriander transcend into flavors of Granny Smith apples, bananas and citrusy acidity in the finish. Enjoy with chicken salad, lemon chicken or cod in a Hollandaise sauce. (14.4% alc.)

Nk’Mip Cellars 2006 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay

release is a tribute to the Osoyoos Arid Biotic Area and the now extinct white-tailed jack rabbit. Fortunately, there’s a fair amount of these bottles produced in British Columbia because it opens with inviting aromas of orchard fruit and blossoms, then a bit of almond. It’s rich on the palate with citrus and tropical fruit, then a hint of Bananas Foster and caramel at the midpoint.

Delicious acidity keeps it hopping all the way.

(13% alc.)

Okanagan Valley, 783 cases, $25 CDN

Recommended. North America’s first Aboriginal-

owned winery pursues a California-style Chardonnay that showcases with French oak and surlie aging. Buttery and vanilla aromas include hints of herbs, sand and lemons. It’s creamy and round in the mouth with lemon curd flavors, late acidity and lemon pith in the finish.

(13.5% alc.)

Stoller Vineyards 2005 Chardonnay

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2006 Dry Rock Chardonnay

Dundee Hills, 420 cases, $28

Okanagan Valley, 1,000 cases, $15 CDN

Excellent. Few, if any, wineries in the Northwest

Excellent. This production of estate fruit is per-

create a smaller carbon footprint than this, but winemaker Melissa Burr is not left wanting for tools. Fruit off Corton Hill, a former turkey farm site, allowed her to express a reserve-style Chardonnay with aromatics of tropical fruit, French toast, vanilla and citrus. Sweet pineapple and orange flavors dominate, and there’s a wealth of acidity that stretches this well beyond a cocktail wine. (13.5% alc.)

fumy with sweetened lemons, rosewater, grass and orchard fruit. It’s more citrusy on the flavors with a backing of peaches and nectarines. A baseline of acidity and grapefruit pith should make this a match for sea bass and fruit salsa.

(13% alc.)

Goose Ridge Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay

Riesling

Columbia Valley, 1,300 cases, $18

Recommended. Those who warm up to buttery

Chardonnays will thoroughly enjoy this.

Blockbuster oak with vanilla and butterscotch aromas carry into similar flavors with a nice herbal note in the midpalate and ample acidity.

(14.1% alc.)

See our extensive Riesling report beginning on Page 50.

Pinot Gris Hauer of the Dauen 2006 Estate Pinot Gris

Hogue Cellars

Willamette Valley, 587 cases, $12

2005 Reserve Chardonnay

Recommended. This wine is shot full of apples,

Columbia Valley, 800 cases, $22

Excellent. Winemaker Co Dinn and Co., reserved

this lot from Sunnyside Vineyard in French oak and stirred on the lees for 14 months with delightful results. Fresh butter, pear, pineapple, honey and toasted almond are among the aro-

starting with the enticing aromas that include nice citrus and floral notes. Fuji apple flavors get sweeter as you dive deeper, with some tangerines and apple peel in the finish. It’s not a classic Pinot Gris, but rather a delightful summer sipper. (12.3% alc.)

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Kramer Vineyards

just a flash of sweetness. (12.7% alc.)

2006 Pinot Gris

Sonoran Estate Winery

Yamhill-Carlton District, 200 cases, $14

Recommended. Trudy Kramer’s expression of her

state’s most-favored white centers on fruit, starting with hints of lychee, Juicy Fruit gum, peaches, peach, a pine needle and celery. Its balanced palate is focused on lychee, Anjou pear and star fruit flavors. (14.6% alc.)

Left Coast Cellars 2006 Estate Pinot Gris

2006 Gewürztraminer British Columbia, 600 cases, $17 CDN

Recommended. This small winery in Summerland,

B.C., strives for tradition in the release, even going so far as to use a blue bottle from Germany. Sweet oranges, lemons, grapefruit and sandalwood notes bubble forth in a slightly off-dry style. (11.8% alc.)

Willamette Valley, 800 cases, $15

Steppe Cellars

Recommended. Burgundy is the stated style of

2006 Gewürztraminer

this winery in Rickreall, Ore., and there’s a sense of French oak at the start, but Bartlett aromas and Jonagold apples quickly join in and stick through to the finish. It will be quite appealing this summer with its sweetness (1% residual sugar) and acidity. (13.7% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery 2006 Pinot Gris Snake River Valley, 400 cases, $13

Recommended. Estate fruit initially gives way in

the aromas to barrel notes of vanilla, butterscotch and toast before orchard fruit arrives.

The sweet lemon entry in the mouth is partnered with pineapples and mango, followed by lime, mint and Granny Smith apples for easy sipping. (13.8% alc.)

Van Duzer Vineyards 2006 Estate Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 1,600 cases, $18

Yakima Valley, 183 cases, $16

Outstanding! Anke Freimuth-Wildman grew up in Germany, but she’s working wonders at this young winery in Sunnyside, Wash. There’s no mistaking this for another variety because of the classic grapefruit, lychee and clove aromas.

It’s sweet on the entry, and there’s lovely balance of that same fruit with grapefruity acidity.

Enjoy it this on the patio, but try to save a bottle for Thanksgiving dinner. (12.8% alc.)

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2007 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, 659 cases, $19 CDN)

Recommended. Dried apricots, gooseberries,

pears, citrus and melon aromas turn into more tropical flavors with ripe papaya and tangerine acidity. It’s easy to get into this glass, and the lemon zest finish keeps you coming back. (13% alc.)

Excellent. The Van Duzer Corridor cooling

Wild Goose Vineyards

effect is real, and the bright acidity is evident in this refreshing and fruit-forward offering.

The near 50/50 blend of clones 146 and 152 produces aromas of grapefruit, lemon, pear, vanilla and light herbal notes. Pleasing pear and peach flavors are joined by lemon, Granny Smith and kiwi fruit accents. (13.1% alc.)

2007 Mystic River Vineyard Gewürztraminer

Gewürztraminer

Okanagan Valley, 1,000 cases, $23 CDN

Excellent. The Krugers note this five-acre parcel

was “rehabilitated with a chainsaw” in 1999, and the operation has been a success. Yellow grapefruit, lychee, spearmint leaf, honey and apple blossoms burst on the tongue with citrusy acidity. Pair this with a number of spicy foods, ranging from Tex-Mex to Asian dishes influenced by wasabi. (13% alc.)

Cathedral Ridge Winery

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

2006 Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 219 cases, $17

Excellent. Michael Sebastiani gathers much of

his fruit within a short drive of this Columbia Gorge winery, and Oak Ridge Vineyard on the Washington side of the big river is one of the best-known sites for this Germanic white.

Aromatics include apple blossoms, lime, honey, some minerality and tell-tale lychee.

The entry is not sweet but crisp and balanced with flavors of lime and firm mangoes.

Pineapple juice shines in the round midpalate, yielding to food-friendly tartness in the finish.

(12.5% alc.)

Fidelitas Wines 2006 Semillon Columbia Valley, 504 cases, $20

Outstanding! Charlie Hoppes chose fruit from

Stillwater Creek overlooking Royal City, Wash., and Rosebud near Mattawa to produce scents of baked apple pie, figs, orange blossom and lemons. It’s round, rich, lush and delicious with more apples and citrusy acidity.

(13.8% alc.)

Steppe Cellars 2006 Semillon

Sleight of Hand

Yakima Valley, 192 cases, $16

2006 The Magician

Excellent. The Mother Block Vineyard of Five

Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $16

Recommended. Few folks in Walla Walla pay

much attention to Gewürztraminer or screwcaps, but Trey Busch does with his new label.

Out of thin air arrive apple blossoms, green apples, apricots and pineapple. Then, presto, tropical flavors follow with Mandarin orange and

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Acre Farms in Prosser, Wash., allowed this young winery in nearby Sunnyside to fill an aromatic palette with dabs of tropical fruit, lemongrass, limes and a hint of toast. There’s more toast inside with a creamy entry, then Meyer lemon acidity takes control to create possibilities for seafood or chicken. (14.4% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S P R I N G 2 0 0 8

Viognier Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Reserve Viognier Horse Heaven Hills, 212 cases, $25

Outstanding! The Boyles continue their history of turning out top-notch Viognier with this dazzling drink of fleshy orchard and citrus fruit. Apricot, peach and pear aromas, along with sweet herbs, carry into a rounded palate with Asian pear and grapefruit flavors, then a twist of lemon in the finish. It’s very balanced, quite complex and will be enjoyed with a Waldorf salad or Mediterranean chicken.

(13.8% alc.)

Cinder Wines 2007 Viognier Snake River Valley, 230 cases, $17

Excellent. Many see Idaho’s future in Rhône

varieties, and Melanie Krause might agree.

Grapes from Sawtooth, Rocky Fence and famed Williamson vineyards produce aromas of pears, apples, cinnamon and a slice of fresh celery. Flavors funnel into more orchard fruit with a touch of honey, a sign of the 25% malolactic fermentation, and ample acidity. (13.5% alc.)

Koenig Vineyards 2006 Williamson Vineyard Viognier Snake River Valley, 250 cases, $15

Recommended. Greg Koenig makes wine for the

Williamsons, and they sell him grapes. His own version shows off huge marshmallow aromas with tangerine and butterscotch. There’s more butterscotch, tangerine and grapefruit on the flavors, spotlighted by shiny acidity. Enjoy with baked macaroni and cheese or a green salad accented by citrus. (13% alc.)

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2007 Viognier Umpqua Valley, 154 cases, $19

Outstanding! Stephen Reustle’s retreat in Southern Oregon includes some remarkable plantings, and he combined his Noah’s and Jezreel blocks for a memorable Rhône representation. Banana taffy and Orange Peanuts candy aromas include lemons and orange peel.

There’s more of the same on the mouth in a ripe, creamy and delicious fashion with foodfriendly tartness. (14.5% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery 2005 Viognier Idaho, 875 cases, $13

Excellent. Rare it is to see this Rhône white

priced so nicely. Often viewed as alternative to Chardonnay, this Viognier is akin to a Burgundy with its toasted oak and butter rum theme. It’s full-flavored with tropical fruit, ripe apple and honeydew melon and appealing acidity. (14.7% alc.)

Tucker Cellars 2007 Viognier Yakima Valley

Outstanding! Randy Tucker’s reputation includes

playing host to some of the best bashes in the Yakima Valley, and it will be difficult for him to W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases hold any of this back. Classic orange Creamsicle aromas and flavors include Texas pink grapefruit acidity for balance. It’s a textbook example of Viognier and others should drink a bottle of this to see how it should be done. (14.4% alc.)

White blends Hip Chicks Do Wine NV Vin Nombril Belly Button Wine Willamette Valley, 77 cases, $12

Recommended. Portland’s tandem of distaff vint-

ners combined Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat for an intoxicating drink. Apples, pears, peaches and honey aromas spin into a tasty and fuzzy Juicy Fruit flavors. Serve with a Sunday brunch. (12.5% alc.)

Joie Wines 2007 A Noble Blend Okanagan Valley, 2,440 cases, $22

Excellent. Winemaker/co-owner Michael Dinn

takes particular pride in this Edelzwicker style, incorporating Gewürztraminer (27%), Kerner (23%), Pinot Blanc (22%), Pinot Gris (22%) and Ehrenfelser from the southern Okanagan Valley.

This trip to Alsace starts with Granny Smith apples and Anjou pears with a slice of celery and grapefruit. The orchard fruit spills out across the palate before giving way to Meyer lemon in the midpalate. A hint of sweet and sour mix in the finish leads to thoughts of scampi or baked halibut served with a salsa.

(12% alc.)

Kana Winery

starts with apples, citrus and artichoke flavors.

Six months of sur lies aging imparts notes of toast on the palate, leading to Asian pears in the finish. (13.5% alc.)

mertime fare. (14.5% alc.)

Joie Wines 2007 Re-think Pink Okanagan Valley, 1,460 cases, $19

Other whites Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2007 Gruner Veltliner Umpqua Valley, 539 cases, $22

Recommended. This Austrian grape is extremely

rare in the Northwest and a pursuit of passion for Stephen Reustle, a New York businessman who found sanctuary in Umpqua, Ore. In fact, it is believed that his 2005 vintage was the first of its kind in the U.S. Lemons squirt in all directions from this release, starting in the nose with Juicy Fruit, apple blossoms and sense of dusty orchard fruit. On the palate, it is focused on lemon curd and lemon meringue filling with a sublime structure for delicate white fish — or merely as an aperitif.

(14.9% alc.)

Tucker Cellars 2007 Muscat Canelli Yakima Valley, 350 cases, $13

Outstanding! Randy Tucker continues to stay dialed in on this aromatic grape. Passionfruit, lychee, pineapple, caramelized sugar, orange blossoms, diesel, river rock and an evergreen forest on a spring day are in the nose.

Ambrosia salad and lychee flavors lead to a zippy finish of acidity. This is a fun wine that’s meant to be enjoyed at its freshest. (11.7% alc.)

Rosé

2006 Cuvée Blanche

WINE REVIEWS

Outstanding! Those craving instant attention at a summer party will bring a bottle of this striking wine, topped with sleek screwcap. The blend of Pinot Noir (56%), Gamay (26%), Pinot Gris (10%) and Pinot Meunier makes for intoxicating aromas of strawberries, apricots, blueberries, Timothy hay and alyssum. Delicious are the flavors with strawberries, rhubarb and cherries swirling amid a quenching structure at just 1.02% residual sugar. Try serving with a slice of rhubarb pie. It’s quickly earned its reputation as one of the Northwest’s best rosés. (12.5% alc.)

Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Blanc de Noir Okanagan Valley, 800 cases, $19 CDN

Excellent. Skin contact is minimal in this blush of

Merlot and Pinot Noir, but there’s plenty of color to dress up the glass. The aromas show the fruity approach in strawberry and rhubarb, light raspberry, apricot and watermelon. Early season raspberries, strawberries and cranberry flavors are joined by a bit of leafiness for complexity and food applications with this dry, bright and crisp offering. (13.9% alc.)

Dessert wines Late harvest Barking Frog Winery 2006 Syrah Dulce

Columbia Valley, 630 cases, $18

Canyon’s Edge Winery

Yakima Valley, 96 cases, $40

folio at this rising winery in downtown Yakima, Wash. Here’s a rare Rhône assemblage of Roussanne (61%), Viognier (33%) and Marsanne. It is fruit-focused with tropical and orchard aromas that include freshly mowed grass. A smooth approach of papaya, pineapple and peach flavors are balanced by good crisp acidity. Serve alongside halibut and a peach salsa. (14.6% alc.)

2005 Aldercreek Vineyard My Sisters My Friends Rosé of Syrah

Excellent. Count this small operation in the

Kana Winery

Excellent. Blends form the backbone of the port-

rosés feature this Rhône variety, and this off-dry bottling from winemaker John Haw is all about rose petals, strawberries and raspberries with summer-sipping acidity. (12.5% alc.)

Willamette Valley among the growing number of wineries shining with Crawford Vineyard fruit.

This cryogenic “ice” wine heats up with aromas and flavors of strawberries, pineapple juice, kiwi fruit and a flick of cinnamon bark. It’s thick, luscious and balanced alongside 16% residual sugar. (12% alc.)

Carpenter Creek

Horizon’s Edge Winery

2007 Rosé

2005 Nouveaux-Riche Muscat Canelli

2006 Katie Mae

Washington, 300 cases, $18

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, $12

Yakima Valley, 569 cases, $14

Recommended. Jeff Hammer coaxed an amazing

Excellent. One of the most uniquely Northwest

Recommended. Referred to as a “Northwest-style

amount of color from this blush of Pinot Gris (88%) and Siegerrebe (10%) by letting the Pinot Gris macerate on the skins for several days and adding Pinot Noir (2%). The result is a delightful drink. Imagine a striped Popsicle strawberry, rhubarb and cherry, yet it’s dry and remarkably balanced for a pairing with glazed ribs. (12.8% alc.)

wineries also deals in some of the region’s top dessert wines. This late-harvest release from Zillah, Wash., is a walk through Yakima Valley orchards, breathing in apples, apricots and white peaches, as well as some citrus. Clean and crisp, a sip is akin to biting into a Pink Lady apple, joined by lemon curd in the midpalate and acid-balanced residual sugar (9%).

(10% alc.)

blend,” Ben Grossman and Scott Southard arrived at Riesling (61%) and Pinot Gris (39%) to create an introduction of pineapple, pear, apple aromas with coconut and sweet pea hints. The drink is pretty pleasing and a touch off-dry with more pineapple, pear and apple, along with sweet fresh corn from the Pinot Gris, which came off Naches Heights Vineyard.

(12.9% alc.)

Lost River Winery 2006 Rain Shadow Columbia Valley, 380 cases, $15

Recommended. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (60%)

and Semillon from Spring Creek, Wahluke Slope, Inland Desert and Les Collines vineyards opens with hints of dried pineapple, apple, lemon peel and Cheerios. Easy drinking W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Horse Heaven Hills, 780 cases, $11

Recommended. A fair number of quality Northwest

Hillside Estate 2007 Rosé

Maison de Padgett Winery

British Columbia, 250 cases, $17 CDN

2005 Singing Toad Late Harvest White Wine

Recommended. The combination of summers on

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, $24

the Naramata Bench, an estate bistro with outside seating and Kelly Symonds’ winemaking means this will sell rapidly. Dried strawberry, peaches, cherry juice and watermelon accents in this dry and balanced sipper from Merlot and Syrah will go well with most sum-

Excellent. David Padgett doesn’t mind singing the

virtues of “The Toad,” a well-presented blend of Gewürztraminer, Muscat Canelli (35%) and Chardonnay. Late-harvested apricots, toasted biscuits, dandelion, a whiff of botrytis turn into a spoonful of peach ice cream on the entry with

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green tea, Bit O Honey candy and fresh yeast in the finish, which shows off 11% residual sugar. (9% alc.)

Novelty Hill 2004 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Late Harvest Semillon Columbia Valley, 240 cases, $18

Recommended. This sweeping Frenchman Hills

site rarely suffers from frost, and the cold definitely concentrated the notes of apricot, honey and apples in exceedingly rich fashion. Acidity shows up in the finish with tastes of vanilla ice cream, butterscotch topping and Bit O Honey candy. (8% alc.)

Ponzi Vineyards 2006 Vino Gelato Willamette Valley, 212 cases, $30

Outstanding! Second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi froze Early Muscat (60%) and Riesling from Alloro and estate vineyards, respectively, then built something beautiful. The pungent nose of apricots, honey, jasmine and lychee is met by more honey and apricot flavors, figs, quince paste and tangerine acidity that skillfully balances the residual sugar (14%).

A suggested pairing is ricotta cheesecake.

(11% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery

your lips for this treat not often seen in the Rhône Valley — an ice wine harvest that took place Nov. 1. In addition to the fruit punch, blueberries and mint, there is a strong undercurrent of currant jam and strawberries along the full run of the palate.

It’s indeed sweet (20% residual sugar), but good acidity keeps it from turning cloying.

(13.2% alc.)

Carpenter Creek Winery 2006 Semillon Ice Wine Yakima Valley, 240 cases, $24

Excellent. Jeff Hammer was among the many

who enjoyed a successful ice wine harvest in 2006. And among the many appealing entry points to this easy drinker are peach, apricots, a slice of celery and nuttiness to balance the sweet honey tone (17% residual sugar). (13% alc.)

Foxy Roxy Wine Co. 2006 Chenin Blanc Ice Wine Washington, 125 cases, $40

Recommended. StoneRidge Vineyard near

Othello, Wash., produces these sweet pebbles for customers and its own estate winery. Figs, honey, nuttiness and grassiness come through in very expressive and drinkable fashion at a high sugar level of 22% residual sugar. (13% alc.)

2005 Reserve Late Harvest Gewürztraminer Idaho, 300 cases, $15

Horizon’s Edge Winery

Recommended. Brad Pintler grew up in the vine-

2005 Brittney’s Butterfly Chardonnay Ice Wine

yards of the Snake River Valley, and it shows in this lifting of the glass. Candied ginger, pineapple, honey, dandelion, apricots and peach aromas carry into similar flavors and Bartlett pears in a light syrup with the residual sugar at 10%.

(11.5% alc.)

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, $24

Steppe Cellars 2006 Late Harvest Riesling Rattlesnake Hills, 152 cases, $16

Outstanding! After 25 years of growing Riesling for others, the Harrisons opened a winery with German-born Anke-Freimuth Wildman as the winemaker. Here’s their first vintage, and it’s a winning combination, starting with aromas of orchard fruit, slate, honey and minerality. Fruity flavors seem to match that of an ambrosia salad with a Tom Collins mix of citrus in the midpalate to balance the residual sugar (5%).

Enjoy this with a cheese plate or very light dinner dessert. (12% alc.)

Tefft Cellars 2005 Chenin Blanc Saints Wine Rattlesnake Hills, 89 cases, $22

occasion. (11% alc.)

Napeequa Vintners 2007 Smasne Vineyard Gewürztraminer Ice Wine Yakima Valley, 118 cases, $24

Recommended. Tasty marbles were picked in January 2007 but stemmed from the 2006 vintage, so the label is a bit sticky. Regardless, this diminutive winery in Plain, Wash., north of Leavenworth, cranked out a tantalizing dessert, opening with aromas of perfumy butterscotch, homemade peanut brittle and a hint of botrytis. Pears and apricot dominate the sweet flavors (12.0 residual sugar), but orange and lemon citrus add some balance before the crack of peanut brittle in the finish. (14.6% alc.)

Port-style Eleven Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Port Washington, 101 cases, $21

Recommended. There’s a bit of romanticism asso-

ciated with a Port-style wine that comes for winery near saltwater, and this hails from Bainbridge Island. Aging in neutral oak for 18 months produced aromas of plump raisins, stewed plums, molasses, brown sugar and cedar. On the palate, it’s much like a turbocharged Cab with its dark fruit, Dagoba chocolate and rich midpalate. Residual sugar sits at 9.7% (19.3% alc.)

Recommended. David Padgett owns/operates

Horizon’s Edge Winery

Horizon’s Edge as well as his nearby namesake winery, and this is the wine formerly known as “Risqué” Chardonnay. He stays true to the variety with peaches, apples, freshly mowed clover and toasted hazelnut aromas. The rich entry smacks of orchard fruit and clover honey, maple nut arrives in the midpalate, and lingering acidity helps to balance the residual sugar (16%).

(10% alc.)

NV Wishful Thinking Port

Koenig Vineyards 2006 Windridge Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine Snake River Valley, 390 cases, $20

Outstanding! For more than five year, Greg

Koenig has made this ice wine from this 30year-old Caldwell, Idaho, vineyard, and it’s difficult to imagine he’s made a more delicious one.

It’s peachy keen with mouth-coating butterscotch and caramel, then it’s joined by mango, cinnamon and palate-cleansing blood orange acidity to adroitly address the residual sugar (23%). (11.1% alc.)

Yakima Valley, 100 cases, $19

Excellent. David Padgett in Zillah, Wash., put so

much thought and ingenuity into developing his Port program that he won’t answer questions about the process. The results are memorable, though, with dark chocolate, caramel and black walnut tones similar to a Snickers bar — but it’s for adults only. (19.5% alc.)

Maison de Padgett Winery Smoking Gun Coffee Port Yakima Valley, 100 cases, $19

Excellent. This is another Port-style wine that proprietor David Padgett won’t talk about in regards to the winemaking process. So don’t ask questions — that’s him on the label holding a gun — just enjoy the matching aroma and flavors of hazelnut coffee, caramel, toast and Kahlua. It will warm the cockles of your feet and go well amid the coffee course after dinner. (19% alc.)

Excellent. Joel Tefft’s tribute to Italy shows nicely

Maison de Padgett Winery

in this Vin Santo-style dessert wine, which he aged in French oak for 25 months. Strong is the theme of apricots, grassiness, farm-fresh peas and flint. And it’s packaged with medium viscosity. (15% alc.)

2006 Funky Monkey Pinot Noir Ice Wine

Tefft Cellars

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, $24

NV Cabernet Port

Outstanding! Make that freaking amazing! One

Rattlesnake Hills, 100 cases, $20

Northwest winery prices its Pinot Noir ice wine beyond $100, but David Padgett could not care less. His 3-acre plot gives him all he needs with aromatic strawberries, raspberries, peach, cola and apricots. Exceptionally rich flavors of raspberries and strawberry shortcake deliver from start to balanced and delicious finish (16% residual sugar). This wine and the label are certain to liven up any

Excellent. Most Port-style wines come in half bottles. Not this one, and that’s a good thing.

Blueberries, strawberries, cedar, NECCO Wafer candy, vanilla extract and golden raisins fill the nose. Blue fruit fills the front of the mouth, followed by hints of cherries, currant liqueur and rich dark chocolate. And there’s not too much of a good thing at just 6% residual sugar. (18% alc.)

Ice wine Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2006 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Syrah Ice Wine Horse Heaven Hills, 73 cases, $38

Excellent. If you like fruit punch, then smack

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $10 and under.

Cinder Wines Idaho, 66 cases, $10

creaminess on the midpalate. Then comes a burst of pineapple and citrus acidity. Enjoy this with lemon halibut in a Beurre blanc. (14.5% alc.)

Recommended. Owner/winemaker Melanie Krause focused this crisp

Silver Lake Winery

2007 Rosé

Syrah-based rosé on fruit from Eckert Vineyard, a 3,500-foot elevation site near Thousand Springs. It is perfumy and inviting with notes strawberry, raspberry and woodruff. The pleasing mouthcoating on the midpalate is brushed away by a pinch of tannin, then food-friendly acidity. Suggested fare is summer barbecue, salad or sushi. (13.9% alc.)

Columbia Crest 2005 Two Vines Chardonnay

2006 Chenin Blanc Rattlesnake Hills, 1,552 cases, $8

Recommended. The estate Roza Hills Vineyard crafted the building

blocks for a summer sipper that kicks off with aromas of apple blossoms, rose petals, Juicy Fruit, mint and rosemary. It’s off-dry at 4.8% residual sugar and focused on more guava and passionfruit, followed by tannin/acidity balance akin to sweet tea with lemon. (12.3% alc.)

Silver Lake Winery

Columbia Valley, 295,000 cases, $8

Excellent. Look for this standby’s new label, and it’s a remarkable feat to

produce so much as such quality. There’s a little oak, but a lot of pleasing pears, pineapple and apple. The rich entry achieves balance via citrusy acidity and minerality, then it’s packaged up with more pineapple. (13.5% alc.)

David Hill Winery & Vineyard

2006 Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, 1,436 cases, $8

Recommended. Fully loaded with citrus, dried pineapple and apple aro-

mas, it’s even more approachable in the flavors of pineapples and Golden Delicious apples wrapped in a creamy and rich texture. (13.7% alc.)

2006 Estate Sweet Simplicity

Snoqualmie Vineyards

Willamette Valley, 580 cases, $10

2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Recommended. Jason Bull continues to revive this Forest Grove, Ore.,

Columbia Valley, 19,500 cases, $7

operation with talent and ingenuity. Who else in the Northwest does dessert with Semillon (68%) and Sylvaner (32%)? A whiff brings in cotton candy, softened pears and images of Karo Syrup over popcorn.

Pears reappear on the palate with bananas and the residual sugar (8.5%) doesn’t rear up until the finish. Pair this with poached pears.

(10.5% alc.)

Excellent. Joy Andersen continues her success with this white

Washington, 150,000 cases, $11 (1.5 liter)

2005 Chardonnay Idaho, 4,400 cases, $8

Outstanding! Brad Pintler balances oak, tanks and surlie aging in amazing fashion from his Sawtooth and Skyline sites. It does open with oak, but it’s overtaken by inviting apple, lemon and tropical aromas. Tropical fruit takes over in the mouth, yielding briefly for melted butter and

NV Windfall Port Oregon, 70 cases, $20

Outstanding! Pinot Noir Port-style wines are gain-

ing a following, and here’s a good reason why.

Winemaker Jim Kakacek’s dessert wine exhibits classic Port aromas using older oak, showing dried cherries, nutmeg, cinnamon oak, while avoiding raisiny overtones. Rich cherry syrup with a dash of anise is finished with a dollop of milk chocolate. The structure broadcasts strong acidity to balance the residual sugar (7.9%) and it’s nicely framed by tannin. Enjoy this very smooth friend with a good book on the first day of winter. (18% alc.)

Fruit Forbidden Fruit 2007 Impearfection Fortified Asian Pear Similkameen Valley, 300 cases, $22 CDN

Excellent. Certified organic pears shine in every

direction of this bottling from Cawston, B.C. Fresh oranges and lemons accent the aromas.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Stimson Estate Cellars 2003 Chardonnay

Sawtooth Winery

Van Duzer Vineyards

Bordeaux, creating a wine that hints at Jonagold apples, pears and pineapples. Bright acidity and citrus pitch in the finish will go well with scallops, scampi or smoked salmon. (13.8% alc.)

Excellent. Essentially, this wine costs $5.50 per bottle because it is sold as a magnum. That makes an ideal companion for summer gatherings. It’s definitely Chardonnay with toasty oak and vanilla, only there’s a strong backing of pineapples, apples and minerality. Oak returns in the finish with honey and pleasing acidity for a chicken dish.

(13.5% alc.)

There’s nice sweetness on the palate with a bit of citrusy acidity to make this a summer sipper, but the food applications include Asian cuisine or cheesecake. (13% alc.)

raspberries with a bowl of Cheerios. (13.5% alc.)

Hoodsport Winery NV Stella Raspberry

Heymann Whinery

Washington, 951 cases, $15

Cranberry Fruit Wine

Outstanding! This is not the first time this win-

Washington, 150 cases, $16

Outstanding! And wow! Berries from bogs in

Grayland, Wash., shine for adults thanks to this Centralia winery. It’s undeniably 100% cranberry, and the berry’s healthy acidity makes for a delicious wine because it balances residual sugar (3.5% in this case). Enjoy this with chicken or turkey or by itself. You will be hardpressed to find a better fruit wine. (12% alc.)

ery has tickled our fancy with raspberries.

Rather than source Willamette raspberries from Oregon, this Puget Sound winery contracts locally for this cordial wine. As usual, there’s pleasant balance struck at 7.5% residual sugar, and a touch of chocolate and pinch of seed tannin in the background. (13.9% alc.)

Lopez Island Vineyards NV Organically Grown Raspberry Wine

Heymann Whinery

Washington, 210 cases, $15

Raspberry Chardonnay Washington, 110 cases, $15

Recommended. It’s no mistake, this winery adds

the “h” for effect, and it has chosen to blend 10% Chardonnay. Raspberries and nectarines are found in the aromas and flavors, and the Chardonnay gives it a creamy sensation akin to

Outstanding! Brent Charnley rounded up raspberries in the Snohomish Valley from Ginnifer Broer, who managed to rescue some of her canes from winter floods. Praise be to them both for this spectacular nectar (5.75% residual sugar) that smells like a raspberry tart and tastes like raspberry pie. (10% alc.)

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BY BOB WOEHLER

Three decades of Leonetti Cellar

T

he first time I met Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar some 30 years ago, he was coming out of the basement of his Walla Walla, Wash., home carrying a bottle of homemade Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was a 1975, and when I tasted, it blew me away. It was gorgeous and every bit the equal of the Chateau Ste. Michelle 1975 Cab that was drawing rave reviews across the country.

I knew Gary was onto something. So did he.

I thought of that first meeting when I led the Wine Press Northwest crew on a visit to Leonetti Cellar this spring to help Gary, his wife, Nancy, and son, Chris, observe the winery’s 30th anniversary.

So much has happened over the past 30 years to Leonetti Cellar, and almost all of it has been good.

Gary, a machinist working for Continental Can Co. in Walla Walla, grew up around wine from his Italian Leonetti side and decided with National Guard buddy Rick Small of Woodward Canyon fame to make homemade wines.

“When I went commercial, all I was hoping for was not to mess up,” Gary said.

His mother, Virginia Leonetti Figgins, is 89 and “really proud of what I’ve done and loves my wine.”

Gary said he was hoping for success when he first ventured into the wine business but had no idea that it would be as big as it has turned out.

I fondly remember that first visit when the winemaking facility was housed in a small garage behind their home on the outskirts of Walla Walla with wheat fields and the picturesque Blue Mountains looming up behind.

The Wine Press Northwest crew — Andy Perdue, Eric Degerman, Hank Sauer, Jackie Johnson and Coke Roth — was on hand with me for a nostalgic look at what has become one of the most famous wineries in America.

It’s mind boggling that Leonetti will sell the bulk of yearly releases over a two-day weekend each spring for prices between $80 and $125 per bottle.

That’s a far cry from the $11 a bottle I paid to purchase the 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon, which later was voted by Wine & Spirits magazine as “the best Cabernet produced in America.”

It was that notice and later accolades that gained Leonetti its reputation as a sought-after producer of great Pacific Northwest Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots.

Standing this spring on a hillside looking down at what that fame has brought, I was impressed by the pastoral scene of vineyards, grass, a pond and attractive winery buildings, all of which are near the initial garage winery.

Like the wines produced in these buildings, all are firstclass, impressive facilities.

Chris used his background of agriculture and engineering to help in the vineyards and to design the winery with its 114

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impressive cave-like cellar that is so clean, you could eat off the floor. Since 2001, Chris has taken over the winemaking duties.

Consistently gaining praise for their wines over the years, the Figginses’ biggest challenge now is to make sure as many folks as possible get to buy the wines, as there is a waiting list to get on their wine buying list.

Gary has always had a great sense of humor regardless of his fame and is a down-to-earth guy. Back in the late 1980s, famed Napa Valley pioneer Robert Mondavi created Opus One with Baron Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Chateau Mouton, their silhouetted profiles facing away from each other is on the label. It is one of America’s most prestigious and expensive wines. So Gary and grape-growing friend Maury Balcom decided to create their own noncommercial wine called Opus 7-5/8, which was both guys’ hat size. It was a Pinot Noir, and they had their silhouetted profiles not facing away but nose to nose. The bottle label turned out to be a collectors item. I can’t vouch for the wine inside.

Serving Leonetti wines has always been a way to say to friends that they are something special.

In addition to Leonetti’s three new releases, Gary opened a couple of older wines to celebrate the 30-year anniversary.

Leonetti 1985 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley: Like a nicely aged Bordeaux, this shows off aromas of leather and dark currants. The flavors are berry-like, and there’s still plenty of tannin and fruit left for more aging.

Leonetti 1989 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington: Slight herbal aromas are backed up with bits of bittersweet chocolate. The flavors are delicious and youthful with cherries and raspberries.

And now on to the new releases: Leonetti 2006 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $65: A blend of premium Walla Walla and Columbia valley grapes with lavender and violet aromas. The flavors are fresh and fruity and very smooth. Think ripe Bing cherries laced with milk chocolate.

Leonetti 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $80: Big and chewy with great tannins for great aging potential.

Vanilla and black currants aromas with a hint of mint. The flavor profile ranges from cranberries to touch of licorice.

Leonetti 2005 Reserve, Walla Walla Valley, $125: A classic blend of 63 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Petit Verdot and 17 percent Merlot. Plums and spice aromas make this big wine a great keeper to lay down for a few of years.

Complex and very drinkable now with smooth tannins ripe black fruit, spices and herbs.

BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.

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