Wine Press Northwest Summer 2010 by Wine Press Northwest

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 13, No. 2

N O R T H W E S T

FEATURES

26 100 Wine Country Destinations Explore Northwest wine country with these favorites.

42 Ice Wine Our judges reveal the best ice wines in the Northwest.

56 Incubators Walla Walla wineries get a head start thanks to a program funded by the Port of Walla Walla.

64 Orchard House An Idaho restaurant owned by two mothers pairs its food with wines made by neighbors in the Snake River Valley.

Summer 2010 DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose Enjoy our Northwest exploration

8 A Distant Perspective Corkage fees can cost restaurants money

10 Northwest Edge Sip, Savor on Seattle’s Urban Wine Tour

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip So much to explore in Northwest

14 Urban Sips Let’s get naked

16 19 20 72 90

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings King Estate still flying high

COVER STORY This page: Be sure to keep an eye out for wildlife on your way to one of the 100 great Northwest wine country destinations. You never know what you’ll find peeking around the next corner. This bighorn sheep is part of a herd that hangs out on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge near the John Day Dam. On the cover: Vistas such as the one from the Cave B vineyards at SageCliff are among the sights to be seen from the 100 great Northwest wine country destinations. Story begins on page 26. Photos by Jackie Johnston

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1405 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1404 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Editor at-large: Jon Bauer Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Winnie Alberg, Mohamed Awad, Justin Michaud, Kate Michaud, Mike Rader, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Dave Seaver, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Contributing writers: Pratik Joshi, Ingrid Stegemoeller Ad sales: Parker Hodge, 509-585-7257 E-mail: phodge@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2010 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

Enjoy our Northwest exploration

am a proud Pacific Northwesterner. Except for the summer of 1987, I have lived my entire existence in the Pacific Northwest. I was born and raised in Washington, was married in Oregon and worked for a year in Idaho (for what it’s worth, my grandfather lived in British Columbia in his youth). I grew up on the Kitsap Peninsula and have lived briefly in Port Townsend, Wenatchee and Ephrata and spent my college years in Bellingham. I’ve explored nearly every corner of Washington, and my role as a wine writer has taken me throughout Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. In other words: I dearly love our little corner of the world. That’s why I am particularly excited about our cover story this issue, in which we explore “100 Great Northwest Wine Destinations.” Last fall, Eric Degerman, managing editor, and Jon Bauer, our editor-at-large, came up with the concept of choosing 10 categories of places to visit, then selected 10 destinations within each category. We used our own experiences to make many of the selections (I think Eric has the broadest Northwest restaurant knowledge of anyone living, thanks to his longtime Match Makers feature). But we also tapped into the expertise of winemakers, who always know the best places to eat breakfast and get espresso. And we also asked readers of our Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter and our friends on Facebook and Twitter, many of whom helped us fill in the gaps in our knowledge and recommended many of the destinations we have highlighted. The feature begins on Page 26. As you read it, please remember it is not meant to be comprehensive; we’d need a book for that (hmm ... not a bad idea). Rather, it’s a starting point for your opportunity to explore. While we certainly hit the highlights in each category, we also purposefully spread the feature throughout the Northwest. For example, in the category of “Winery Restaurants,” we could have filled all 10 (and more) just in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley, thanks to the dedication of that region’s wineries and chefs. But then we would have overlooked some wonderful on-site restaurants in Chelan, Yamhill County and the TriCities. The same goes in nearly every category. We also purposely stayed out of the big cities. I love Seattle, Portland, Vancouver and Boise, and their restaurants, coffeehouses and hotels earn plenty of praise. But we want you to get out of the city and explore wine country as you look through our destination suggestions. In some cases (Woodinville and Yamhill County, for example), you won’t have to travel much beyond the suburbs. In others, you will need to pack for the weekend. And this is not the end of the conversation, either. We would like your feedback on destinations we missed. We want to know your favorite espresso stand in the Yakima 6

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Valley or special breakfast place on Vancouver Island. We’ll pass these along to our online readers. I would also like to do this again, perhaps picking out new categories as well as revisiting some of those featured here. For example, we started out with a category for golf courses but changed that for picnic locations instead. Have a suggestion for a new category? Pass them along to me, as well. We love exploring the Northwest, and we hope to see you somewhere along the wine trail. ••• In early May, Wine Press Northwest launched a new venture: a weekly wine column. We are making it available to daily and weekly newspapers throughout the Pacific Northwest (and beyond). So far, the following papers are carrying it: The (Tacoma) News Tribune, Daily Olympian, Bellingham Herald, Idaho Statesman, Tri-City Herald, Wenatchee World, Aberdeen Daily World, Bellevue Reporter, SeattlePI.com and Wichita (Kansas) Eagle. If you want the new weekly column to appear in your local newspaper, send a note to the editor — and mention it’s free. ••• Beginning this issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson is changing the focus — and name — of her column. Braiden began writing for Wine Press Northwest in 2000, and the format has remained largely unchanged: She would take four Northwest wines and pair them with four recipes that rely on fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. The column has gone by the name “Market Grapevine” since its inception. Starting with this issue, Braiden is taking her vast food and wine experience and putting it in words. Her new column, called “Northwest Edge,” will feature her “Wow!” moments in wining and dining. In this issue, she explores the Urban Wine Tour in her hometown of Seattle. ••• Two books you won’t necessarily read about in Wine Press Northwest came out this spring. I contributed to both, so I am loathe to promote them too much for fear of appearing self-indulgent. (That said, I don’t get paid royalties on either book, so I do not financially benefit if you purchase copies.) The first is Swirl, Sip and Savor, authored by Carol Frieberg. It’s a terrific book that features small-plate recipes from Northwest wineries. I contributed profiles of about 30 wineries. The second is North American Wine Routes, published by Reader’s Digest. Dan Berger was the project leader on this beautiful volume, and I wrote the chapters on Washington and Oregon. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Corkage fees can cost restaurants money

ith the economy still wobbly and restaurants that survived the horrendous 18-month siege that lasted from late 2008 to early 2010 still on deathwatch, you would think that they’d become more creative. I refer to trying to entice wine consumers into their establishments. To date, I have seen little in the area of revenueraising restaurant promotions, even though these ideas are almost the simplest ones to institute and do not entail computer reprogramming or staff retraining. Luring customers isn’t easy. Announce you have white truffles or caviar and most diners think of the cost and walk the other way. In a weakened economy, even a shared salad isn’t an easy purchase — especially when you add in tax, tip, cost of gasoline and parking. Yet wine is a natural way to market a restaurant, even if it’s not wine itself that is raising revenue. Cooking at home allows the wine lover to properly deal with collected wine. It may be chilled or decanted; the right glassware can be used, etc. But it does require preparing a meal and cleaning up. That’s why wine lovers dine out, and do so on average more than beer or soda consumers. And they typically have significantly larger check totals (the cost of wine vs. a Coke). Yet low- or zero-corkage policies are woefully unavailable in most U.S. cities. Where they exist, they work brilliantly. Imagine a standard bill for a couple on a budget: shared salad ($7), shared appetizer ($6), two modest entrées ($35) and a shared dessert ($5) and you have a total of $53. Add in a bottle of wine ($35) and you’re staring at $88, not counting tax and tip. Even if a corkage charge of $15 were added in, that $53 tab leaps to $68. Eliminate the corkage charge and the bill is manageable. Additionally, a low- or zero-corkage policy means the restaurant has a policy, which eliminates diners’ fears that bringing a bottle in will cause a hassle. (More than once, we’ve asked if we could open our own wine and were told it wasn’t permitted. We usually leave.) Leonard Cohen, owner of two restaurants in California’s Central Coast, opened Ciopinot Seafood Grille in San Luis Obispo and decided to have no corkage charge. His rationale? “I know a lot of people with wine cellars who like to dine out. If I charged corkage, I might scare them off. As it is, people on a budget can come in here on a Wednesday night and share a salad and a main dish with their own wine and be out of here for $25.” Cohen’s comment about Wednesday night is telling. Midweek nights are the hardest nights of the week to fill seats at most restaurants, yet the staff still has to be paid. All 8

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overhead costs are about the same. Ciopinot’s policy is teamed with a reasonably priced wine list that focuses on local Central Coast wineries. Other tales of zero-corkage success: • San Francisco’s famed Fog City Diner, just off the Embarcadero, once struggled with a $15 corkage policy. It was dropped a year ago because, as one waiter said, “it didn’t happen very often that someone brought in a bottle of wine, and when it did, it seemed silly. “Now that we don’t have any corkage, we got a lot more of the wine crowd in here.” (It also helps that Constellation Brands, the world’s largest wine company, has a huge office complex across the street!) Fog City’s small, select wine list is good, but, after all, this is a diner, however upscale it is. • Harry’s Pacific Grill (Temecula and Rancho Cucamonga) is an Asian/fusion place that can get a bit raucous on weekends; there’s still a minor buzz on midweek nights. The no-corkage policy is paired with huge wine goblets that really help to open up wine aromas, and the staff is always interested in what diners bring in. A manager told us the owners want to focus on fresh seafood and an assortment of mixed drinks, so the wine list is modest. We dined there twice and saw numerous diners with their own wines — and two tables had members of the Temecula Valley Wine Society. As for low-corkage, there may be no better example than Café Bizou in both Pasadena and the San Fernando Valley. These most popular restaurants are bistro-esque with tables close together (to maximize space), a good but smallish wine list, and a $2 corkage policy. Both places are busy nightly, with weekends so jammed that diners literally wait outside even in (rare) inclement weather. Low wine prices attract customers. Some 20 years ago, the late, lamented Café Angeli in West Los Angeles ran into financial difficulties. To reduce a vast wine inventory, wine director Dean Gold resorted to a radical policy: He cut prices for the most expensive wines to retail or below! But as the wine inventory was depleted, the numbers of diners declined. Restaurants that don’t do special wine promotions (such as free corkage on Wednesday and Thursday nights) are missing a simple draw that wine lovers will find to their liking. And an unfilled seat at a restaurant is revenue lost. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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northwest edge BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Sip, savor on Seattle’s Urban Wine Tour

ttention Seattle wine lovers and visitors to our fair city! No longer do we have to trek hours away to Yakima or Walla Walla or make the 45-minute jaunt to Woodinville in search of winning wineries, atmospheric tasting rooms and face time with working winemakers. Instead, every Saturday from 2 to 5 p.m., for the reasonable sum of $50, we can take the Urban Wine Tour. Within a postto-post route of a few short miles, we’ll experience four wineries and the Wine Outlet, along with an intriguing array of food-and-wine pairings. Pick up the Urban Wine Tour at 106 Pine, a Northwest-centric wine bar and retail store that opened in early February near the Pike Place Market. The richly hued, intimate slice of a space is the brainchild of Michel Brotman, a successful Seattle retailer for the past 35 years, and buyer Valerie Brotman, his wife of 24 years. The atmospheric store — which offers some of the city’s most interesting and beautifully displayed wines, wine and cooking accessories, wine-related books and glass display cases full of charcuterie and hand-made chocolates — is overseen by beverage manager Shannon Borg, a well-respected Northwest food-and-wine writer and author. Julia Wayne, who writes The Cheese Plate column for Edible Seattle magazine, serves as “cheese guru.” Together, this dynamic duo have crafted fascinating “This & That Pairing Boards” that are served on long, rough-hewn wooden planks. The “Ladies Who Lunch” board pairs Samish Bay Ladysmith Cheese (a cow’s milk cheese from Washington), prosciutto, Pink Lady apple slices, Woodring Orchard’s Tart Cherry Compote, marcona almonds and a Lesley’s 72% Raspberry Heart Truffle with The House of Independent Producers 2008 Chardonnay ($12). As you’d expect, Northwest wines are available by the taste or glass. Themed wine flights include Bright Whites; White & Red, Bordeaux Style; and Pinot Evil. Talk about one-stop shopping! Within the same block, the Brotmans also own and operate Simply Seattle, a popular souvenir shop, and Chocolate Box, which offers sweet treats from the Northwest’s best chocolatiers. Two years ago at Chocolate Box, the Brotmans began offering the Tour de Chocolat, which highlights a handful of Seattle’s leading chocolatiers. The chocolate tours proved so popular, the couple decided to offer wine-themed tours as well. A couple of months ago, one weekday after work, I signed on for an abbreviated version of the Brotmans’ Urban Wine Tour that was offered to the couple’s friends and members of the media. Borg, who led the tour that special evening, told us that on a typical Saturday afternoon, 85 percent of wine-tour participants are locals and 15 percent are tourists. The groups gather at 106 Pine, where they’re greeted with a glass of bubbly along with a general overview of the Washington wine industry. That evening toward sunset, our comfortable 16-person van made its way through rush-hour traffic and, within min10

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utes, we arrived at Ward Johnson Winery, a 600-case boutique winery that bills itself as “Seattle’s Urban-Family Winery.” Once inside, we met winemaker Kurt Johnson, who tasted us through his 2008 Counterbalance Chardonnay, from Washington’s Columbia Valley, and his 2007 Syrah from Red Mountain. For this group of foodies and wine lovers, it was both challenging and fun to see which wine — the brightly acidic, green-apple Chardonnay or the lushly textured, peppery Syrah — paired better with Mt. Townsend Creamery Cirrus, a Camembert-style cow’s-milk cheese. Me? I voted for the Syrah. We didn’t have time that evening for the tour’s customary second stop at the nearby Wine Outlet. But Borg told us this is where owner Richard Kinssies, longtime Seattle wine columnist and founder of the Seattle Wine School, shares his thoughts on the basics of food-and-wine pairing and presents a tasting of local wines. Who knew they were making wine in the shadow of Safeco Field? Our bus headed toward SoDo — the warehouse space south of downtown Seattle — for a stop at 85 Atlantic Avenue. This wine co-op is made up of four urban microwineries, where the talented winemakers share expertise and costly equipment and do everything except grow the grapes. Here we enjoyed meeting the winemakers and tasting and comparing barrel samples, as well as finished wines, from Stomani, Falling Rain and Sodovino Cellars. The tour concludes back at 106 Pine with a spicy chocolate truffle and a glass of raspberry wine to warm the heart, plus a cappuccino or shot of espresso to perk the palate. In a blog posting written on the website shortly before 106 Pine opened, Michel Brotman recounts an epiphany he experienced during the first dry run of the Urban Wine Tour. “The moment during the tour when I tasted some fresh Rollingstone goat cheese along with a glass of sparkling white wine from Masquerade Wine Co. in Kennewick, the entire reason for our store’s concept and the tour exploded into my brain,” Brotman says. “I liked the cheese! The combination of the wine and the goat cheese created an entirely different experience. Wow! I think we’re on to something!” Indeed. Coordinates: 106 Pine is just east of the Pike Place Market between First and Second Avenues. Make reservations for the Urban Wine Tour by visiting the website at 106pine.com or calling 206-443-1106. BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for more than 20 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). and is a regular contributor to The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine and Amazon.com’s Al Dente blog. Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

So much to explore in Northwest We’ve visited several of the Northwest’s best-known areas for wines — Walla Walla, the Yakima Valley, the Willamette Valley and the Okanagan in Canada — and would like to try out someplace new this summer. Any recommendations?

With some 650 wineries in Washington alone, another 400plus in Oregon, nearly 200 in British Columbia and more than 40 in Idaho, you have about 1,300 wineries to choose from and likely more than 10,000 wines. And hundreds of the wineries and thousands of the wines aren’t in or from the areas you mentioned. So it’s not too hard to recommend some impressive areas to visit — for their wines, their restaurants and their friendly people, all of which make wine touring about as much fun as you can have and still write about it in a family-friendly publication. That aside, here are a few places I want to return to — and if I’m lucky, I’ll make it to a couple of them this summer myself. After exploring the Okanagan, I found I wanted to try the wet side of B.C., and my wife and I chose Victoria for a trip a few years ago. I’ll just say that as much fun as we’ve had tasting wines at the nearby wineries we visited on Vancouver Island and on the nearby Gulf Islands, especially Salt Spring, there was so much more to do that we’ve returned twice. If you go, spend a day traveling to Salt Spring and visiting the three wineries there. You’ll find some wines you may never have encountered — an excellent Zweigelt that Garry Oaks Winery calls Zeta and at Salt Spring Vineyards a wine dubbed Millotage made from Marechal Foch and Leon Millot grapes. And give yourself at least a couple days to tour the nearby wineries on the big island as well. We were able to focus on enjoying our tours because we used a tour service, Vancouver Island Wine Tours, and chose not to drive ourselves, which saved both time and trouble. In addition to the wineries, Victoria and the surrounding area offer a wide array of dining choices. Some offer simple and delicious fare, like the Tapa Bar in Trounce Alley, while others serve food as elegantly French as Brasserie L’ecole and Bon Rouge Bistro. The incomparable Sooke Harbour House is less than an hour’s drive to the west. And then of course, there’s the Butchart Gardens and the Abkhazi Garden and the Royal B.C. Museum if you tire of the food and wine. As a bonus, Church and State Wines is right on the road to Butchart, and offers its “Vineyard Luncheon” Wednesday through Sunday, plus wines from both its Victoria-area and Okanagan vineyards. But if the sophistication of Victoria just isn’t your cup of tea, you might try Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, which surrounds Roseberg and is home to wineries that offer a small-town, cozy ambiance for about every palate, with whites ranging from the bone-dry Spanish-style white Albariño of Abacela to the lush, lose-yourself-in-it Zinfandel of Delfino Vineyards, which also offers a cozy B&B. Or you can stop off in Elkton at Brandborg Vineyard & Winery to sip a slightly sweet, floral, spicy Gewürztraminer or 12

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“Love Puppets” Pinot Noir, whose name speaks volumes about the wine. If you go to Brandborg, cross the street kittycorner to Tomaselli’s Pastry Mill and Cafe for dinner or some of the fresh-baked bread to go with your local wine. And if you head north from Elkton to return home, don’t miss one of the Northwest’s oldest wineries, Henry Estate, near Umpqua, founded in 1978 by Scott Henry. You’ll find not only Oregon’s signature Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, but also a surprising Müller-Thurgau and a nice Bordeaux blend. For wine tourists who want something that’s neither city nor country, there’s one of Washington’s finest spots for a resort-style vacation — Lake Chelan. Featured in Wine Press Northwest’s Spring 2010 edition as Winery of the Year, Vin du Lac offers a fine array of both reds and whites. Don’t miss owner and winemaker Larry Lehmbecker’s Cabernet Franc or his Riesling — or anything else for that matter. The south and north shores of the lake are each home to several wineries, where you can have wines of every color from pale whites to lush reds and from every European geography from Tuscany to the Alsace. And when you’re hungry, Lake Chelan’s resort roots can offer up the Italian flavors of Sorrento’s Ristorante inside Tsillan Cellars, the ambiance of a country bistro in Provence at The Bistro at Vin du Lac or the white linen tablecloths of the Winemaker’s Grill in Manson, which shares two doors with Wapato Point Cellars and pairs its estate wines with corn-fed Nebraska beef. Wine words: Vin de pays

After a short absence, it’s time for another French lesson. Vins de pays, literally country wines, were authorized in 1930 to allow the highly regulated French wine industry to specify the canton that a common French wine came from. A canton is simply a designated region that, depending on the country, is the equivalent of, say, a county or township. In France, the designation on a wine label originally was to set standards, including certification that a wine contained a set level of alcohol. In the 1970s, the term began to emerge as a designation for a superior French table wine but not an AOC-designated wine (Appellation d’Origine Controlleé). And here it’s worth quoting what The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, fourth edition, has to say about the two designations: “ ... in practice, (AOC) includes everything from the greatest French wines to the worst; thus it is almost always better to buy an expensive vin de pays than a cheap AOC wine.” Or buy Northwest. It’s likely to be cheaper and better. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 40 years and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 32 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

Let’s get naked

escribe sexy. It’s one of the most elusive wonders. You know it when you see it, and you surely see it when you taste it. Whether it’s the body of a car or the body of a wine — there’s something arousing about certain exposures. With summertime around the corner, warmer weather traditionally means less coverage. So if naked is to sexy as unoaked is to white — well then open your mind and pour yourself a glass, and let’s see where desire ranks among these sultries. Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2007 Naked Chardonnay offers a steely lightness rimmed with caramel-drizzled apple. As it touches your tongue nervously, an explosion of fresh orange peel lights up the night, as you plunge deeply into fresh-cut citrus, lime and green apple. Very crisp, very sexy.

Along the same line, Desert Wind Winery’s 2006 Bare Naked Semillon offers grapefruit on crack, twisted with melon and tropical fruit. Steel in character with delicate sighs, the wine surges with lemon to a clean finish. Next up: If this is the consequence, I’ll gladly accept my punishment. Nefarious Cellars 2009 Consequence is a wicked blend of all things white — Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté and Viognier. It starts with a brilliant puncture of dusty tree, mowed grass and green apple. The ivory velvet converges and BAM! A deep, cold peach-skin ripeness pulls you in. Its off-dry style shows up in layers of cotton candy and honey — neither sweet, nor cloying. Its clean, geranium finish is very sexy indeed. I’m told that this wine is intended for fun and pleasure, and since I’m a big proponent of both, I was ready to have my socks knocked off. Big Daddy 2006 Cab-Syrah rocked the house with intensity — juicy spice and dirty cherry. Super-sized tasters of sweaty blackberry, firm structure and healthy tannins, shows subtle, yet perplexing sarcasm. Bearing a vast similarity to that guy in the corner — the one sporting gold chains on a hairy chest — for some, there is nothing sexier.

In the end, you may not want to spend the rest of your life with Big Daddy, but if you have the next 10 minutes to get your socks rocked, it’ll be worth your while — wild and sexy! Speaking of wild, lunacy laughs in the shape of a wine bottle and — a little crazy can be verrrry sexy. With Basketcase 2006 Syrah (grapes from Washington, made in Oregon), yours may not be the only voice you hear. The drama runs high, but it’s all in the name of liquid love, and that my friend, is very sexy. Basketcase exhales bright cherry and dusty cocoa. Radiant red fruit goes to dark then fades to black for a lingering, uncomplicated finish. Crazy is humanity’s common denominator, and just because you talk to yourself doesn’t 14

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make it so. This wine celebrates “differences,” and I’m all for that. Sexy. Darby 2007 The Darkside may be the savory difference one wishes for among the appeal of sexiness. Delving deep into the bowl, I lift my nose with the daunting scent of pulsating corn nuts – hard and salty and corny. This wine is all about the roasted salt of night with bursts of soy sauce, tanned leather, black currant and black pepper. It unfolds in a mysterious black thread of rich, dark salted chocolate with a puckery middle and a black licorice finish. Very dark. Very sexy. And then we’re back to naked — in a much bigger way. In the over-the-top power-hour, Naked Winery and Orgasmic Wine Co. in Hood River, Ore., walks the ledge. We’re not only poised for the promise of foreplay, but also the pledge of penetration. So quickly, so much could go wrong here, which makes me painfully intrigued, knowing it’s a thin line between sensual pleasure and a ho bag. While these wines run a high risk of not living up to their promises, a pleasant surprise is revealed in Naked Winery’s 2007 Foreplay Chardonnay. It’s elegant in its hollow whiteness, squeezed with fresh drops of lime and lemon, wrapped in a rage of flinty walnut. It resembles something of a good Burgundy, Montrachetesque with the essence of banana, coconut and silky oak smoothness. The finish is slight, but remember, this is simply Foreplay, and impressive at that. Onward! Naked Winery’s 2004 Penetration Cabernet Sauvignon is ruby red full of rosy spice, cinnamon and milk chocolate overtones. “All the better to pour over you, my sweet,” said the Wolf. This wine proposes its mood upon you, whether YOU’RE in the mood or not. Thrusting ribbons of raspberry, blackberry and cherry-ability bounce on your tongue, enrobed in rich leather, chewy tannins and tobacco. No doubt, you’re left thirsting for more to come. As the label says “open up, relax and get penetrated tonight.” Sexy? You decide. I’m not sure what’s exactly happening in the world of wine, but Hard Row to Hoe, just said they’re sending me a bottle of Nauti Buoy and I can’t wait! Cheers!

With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is the author of the latest edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest and the Northwest Wine Journal. She also was the winner of the Napa Valley Wine Writers Editor’s Choice Award in 2007. She contributes to Seattle Metropolitan and writes An Urban Sip Wine Blog www.anurbansip.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

ince I accepted this position that’s focused on drinking wine and playing on the Internet, I hear complaints from hiker wife about how all I do anymore is sit around drinking wine and playing on the Internet. So I need to find some alternatives to that “sitting around” part. My body craves vitamin D delivered the old-fashioned way, and that’s not from a milk carton or the white horse pill that hiker wife forces down my gullet. I must burn some calories so that I may replace them with those beloved “empty calories.” And off we go …

Take a hike. OK, I admit that I learned of this while sitting at home on my computer, but Terra Blanca Estate Winery & Vineyard near Benton City, Wash., offers vineyard walk and tasting tours from April through November — weather permitting. A member of Keith & ReNae Pilgrim’s wine education staff guides you through their Red Mountain blocks. Then you get to taste. There is one tour on Friday afternoon and two more on Saturday. Cost is $15 for the 90-minute excursion, but it’s free to wine club members. Reservations are required. Go to terrablanca.com.

Bowling in wine country. As a child, my lawn games focused on Wiffle Ball and Jarts. Somehow I didn’t shoot my eye out or impale myself. As I grow older, games that can be enjoyed with a glass of wine in my left hand are appealing. If I were as ambidextrous as retired NBA great Paul Westphal, then I could swirl my Schott Zweisel stem with my off hand. Bocce ball seems to be on a roll in 16

the Northwest these days. If I recall, winemaker Gino Cuneo in Carlton, Ore., helped bring the game to Northwest wine country. And this spring, John Stuart at nearby Abbey Road Farm installed a court for guests at his remarkable silo B&Bs. Now Saint Laurent Estate Winery has imported the game to the Wenatchee Valley. Each Saturday, the Mracheks play host to croquet and bocce ball tournaments. The series began Memorial Day weekend and concludes Labor Day weekend. Play runs 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Teams are restricted to four players, and the winning team receives a “Lucky” bottle. No outside food or drink allowed. Learn more at stlaurent.net.

Grabbing some tail in Westport. The imaginative Roberts family at Westport Winery in Aberdeen, Wash., is on point again with its summer rounds of Yappy Hour. Each sunny Sunday afternoon through Memorial Day, the winery invites folks to bring their pets for a two-hour afternoon socialization session. Water bowls are provided. Wine is available for purchase for owners over 21. Each critter must be on a leash, and they are welcome in the garden and on the patio but not in the tasting room. I’m guessing they don’t want Bowser lifting a leg on their lighthouse, either. That said, these folks contribute to several pet causes. A portion of Ancient Mariner’s Pear Wine sales go to the Coastal Animal Rescue and Adoption. Jetty Cat Red benefits the Harbor Association of Volunteers for Animals. Message in a Bottle helps feed the West Coast Search Dogs of Washington. And the blush True North has North Beach PAWS as a friend. Sniff around at westportwinery.org.

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Celebrating Oregon’s Fruit Loop. One of the Northwest’s top winemakers, Charlie Hoppes, told us that if a region grows quality orchard fruit, it can do the same with wine grapes. The Columbia Gorge AVA is another example, and Hood River County honors that with its third annual Fruit Loop Wine Celebration. On June 19-20, several Oregon winemakers throw open their doors to tourists. The Gorge White House — a 1910 Dutch Colonial house on the National Registry of Historic Places — serves as the headquarters. The proprietors pour wines from both sides of the Columbia Gorge. Along the loop are Cathedral Ridge, Marchesi Vineyards, Mount Hood Winery Pheasant Valley, Phelps Creek and Wy’east Vineyards. For maps and information, pick through hoodriverfruitloop.com.

Primos and Port. Ron Bitner led the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Commission for years, and he helped push legislation that paved the way for the pouring of Port-style wines in the Gem State. Now, he’s able to savor that success from the deck of his tasting room, the site for a cigar and Port seminar June 27. One of the fortified wines to be sampled will be his Syrah-based Sevana Red Dessert wine. Sturman’s Smoke Shop in Boise will bring an assortment of cigars and go over cigar etiquette. Cost is $35, and seating is limited. Make reservations via bitnervineyards.com. Long ashes to you.

Feasting in the fields. This marks the second year of the Okanagan Feast of the Fields, one of three celebrations staged throughout British Columbia by the Farm Folk/City Folk group. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY Inspiration for the Aug. 22 event emerged from a movement in Ontario when a respected chef wanted people in cities to visit and support the people who grow their food. In 1995, Domaine de Chaberton in Langley played host to the first B.C. event. Last year’s debut in the Okanagan Valley was a sellout, thanks in part to coordinator Rhys Pender — at age 35 the Northwest’s latest, and youngest, Master of Wine. Folks visited a Summerland farm where they enjoyed a 20course tasting menu. Regional chefs will be back to pair dishes with wine and other adult beverages from the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys. Tickets cost about $90 for an adult, and $15 for children ages 7-15. Those younger eat for free. For the farm location and updates, go to feastoffields.com.

Just swing it. Wine festivals seem to pop up at any moment, sometimes when you least expect it — kind of like that bottle of sparkling wine right after you removed the cage. It’s better to act fast. A young one keeps catching my attention, the second annual Best of Oregon Food & Wine Festival. Proceeds continue to be earmarked for the Doernbecher Children’s Hospital Foundation. This time, it will be held Aug. 14 at The Reserve Vineyards & Golf Club in Aloha, and there will be a limited-field tournament held earlier in the day. Entry fee is $150, which gives you total access to that night’s festival. Tickets to the festival only are $35. Wonder if they allow night putting? Go to bestoforegonfoodandwine.com.

Tomatoes and grapes. Heirloom tomato growers of Grant County unite again for the sixth annual Tomato Fare at White Heron Cellars in Quincy, Wash., bringing their fascinating fruit for tasting and selling. On Sept. 4, chefs from the Wenatchee Valley and beyond will prepare dishes featuring these handpicked, vineripened beauties. Two bands will supply live music; one with South American W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY roots and the other plays the blues. The event at Cameron Fries’ grass amphitheater begins at 4 p.m., and cost is $25. Visit whiteheronwine.com.

A toast to recycling and repurposing. Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden, a young and certified biodynamic operation in Jacksonville, Ore., is earning praise for more than its Rhône-influenced wines. Co-owner Barbara Steele says it’s about “closing all the loops” with responsible use of wine packaging. For example, the Applegate Valley winery recently shipped 1,000 used bottles to The Green Glass Co. in Wisconsin, which transforms them into a series of items — dining table glasses, pitchers, vases and votives — and sends them back to Cowhorn for retail. Cowhorn also joined up with the Ashland Food Co-op to gather used corks for Western Pulp’s recycled packing and planter business in Corvallis. And Cowhorn goes another step by offering to consolidate discarded foil capsules. That material is bound for Rogue Disposal & Recycling in White City, Ore. Get green and go to cowhornwine.com.

Sommelier turns into aqua-man. David LeClaire organizes wine events throughout the Northwest, and one of his biggest is Debuts & Discoveries, a fundraiser for the Seattle Aquarium. On Thursday, Sept. 24, from 7-9:30 p.m., he’s gathered 44 of the region’s younger boutique wineries for a seventh annual pouring at the Emerald City’s tourist attraction on Pier 59. Three chocolatiers and a handful of creameries — including the canned cheese folks from Washington State University — will provide samples. Seattle-based jazz band Ambiance is scheduled to perform. Cost is $40. Swim around at vinolover.com and seattleaquarium.com. ı What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. ı Have a Northwest wine item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events.

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events

W I N E C O U N T RY

June 18-19 Wine Country Celebration, Yakima, Wash. Festivities include winemaker dinners in the vineyards and the Grand Gala Auction and Benefit dinner at the DeAtley Estate. Call 206-285-0514 or go to winecountrywashington.org. 26 Sunshine and Wine, Yakima, Wash. This event is part of the Washington State Wine Competition. Call 509-248-7160 or go to sunshineandwine.com.

July 9-11 Washington Wines Festival, Carnation, Wash. More than 50 wineries participate in this event that assists Camp Korey and the Washington Wine Eductation Fund. Go to washingtonwinesfestival.com or call 206-369-9065. 10 The Oregon Wine and Art Auction, Dayton, Ore. This year, the 18th annual auction will be at Methven Family Vineyards. Go to theoregonwineandartauction.org or call 503-883-0323. 10 Ohme Gardens Wine & Food Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. Ohme Gardens celebrates its 81st anniversary by gathering area chefs and wineries from the Wenatchee Wine Country group. Go to wenatcheewines.com. 14 Rhône Rangers Public Tasting, Seattle. This carnival-style tasting at Pier 66 is called “Guest Chef on the Waterfront”and includes wineries and restaurants. Proceeds benefit FareStart. Go to rhonerangers.org. 16-18 Kirkland Uncorked, Kirkland, Wash. City officials stage the event in Kirkland Marina Park featuring 16 wineries along with food-and-wine pairing workshops. Go to kirklanduncorked.com or call 206-633-0422. 17 Horse Heaven Hills Wine Growers Trail Drive, Paterson, Wash. The 5th annual tour visits wineries and ends with a barbecue at Crow Butte Park on the Columbia River. Go to horseheavenhillswinegrowers.org or call 509-894-4528 22-24 Sun Valley Wine Auction, Sun Valley, Idaho. The Sun Valley Center for the Arts stages its 29th annual charity wine auction. Go to sunvalleycenter.org. 23-25 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, Ore. Global Pinotphiles visit Linfield College for the 24th year. Call 800-775-4762 or go to ipnc.org.

August 13-14 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival, Vernon, B.C. The annual event at Silver Star Mountain Resort blends education and recreation. Go to thewinefestivals.com. 14 Prosser Wine and Food Fair, Prosser, Wash. More than 30 wineries help celebrate the 29th anniversary of the event, which returns to Washington State University-Prosser. Call 800-408-1517 or go to prosserchamber.org. 19-21 Auction of Washington Wines, Woodinville, Wash. The Washington Wine Commission’s 23rd annual benefit is headquartered at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Call 206-326-5747 or go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org. 28 Eagle Food & Wine Festival, Eagle, Idaho. Homegrown wines, foods and restaurants gather this year at BanBury Golf Course. Go to eaglechamber.com. 27-29 Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, Vancouver, Wash. This 12th annual event at Esther Short Park features regional wineries, area restaurants and several topname recording artists. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com or call 360-906-0441. 21 Leavenworth Wine Tasting Festival, Leavenworth, Wash. Wines, art and music at Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort. Call 509-548-5807 or go to leavenworth.org. 28 Southern Oregon World of Wine Festival, Gold Hill, Ore. Del Rio Vineyards blends food, cheese, music and wines from more than 35 Rogue and southern Oregon vintners. Call 541-855-2062 or go to worldofwinefestival.com.

September 11-12 Umpqua Valley Wine, Art & Music Festival, Roseburg, Ore. Umpqua Community College has added a second day to its annual celebration of wines from southern Oregon. Call 541-440-7700 or go to uvwineartandmusic.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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NORTHWEST WINE

Leonetti owners launch new winery, cattle company BY ANDY PERDUE

One of Washington’s oldest and most successful wine producers hopes to catch lightning in a bottle again with the launch of a new winery and high-end beef cattle company. In April, the owners of Leonetti Cellar in Walla Walla, Wash., announced the launch of Figgins Family Wine Estates and Lostine Cattle Co. “It’s not a second label to Leonetti,” said Chris Figgins, CEO and winemaker for Leonetti Cellar. “It’s not even a sister winery. It’s a stand-alone project.” As he stood above a 32-acre vineyard planted six years ago in the northeastern Walla Walla Valley, he said the goal is to produce a single wine that reflects the quality of the unique location. The first wine, from the 2008 vintage, will be released in fall 2011. Figgins said the exact price has not been set, but he expects it to cost between $80 and $85, about the same as a bottle of Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon. About 900 cases of the first vintage will be produced. Leonetti Cellar was started in 1978 by Chris Figgins’ parents, Gary and Nancy Figgins, and the wines are among the most highly prized in the country. Figgins also announced the launch of Lostine Cattle Co.

Chris Figgins, winemaker for Leonetti Cellar in Walla Walla, Wash., is launching a new winery called Figgins.

Four years ago, Figgins and his father purchased a ranch in Oregon’s Wallowa Valley and decided to raise Scottish Highland cattle. They have distinctively long hair that keeps them warm in winter. They also tend to be naturally leaner than other breeds. They are grass fed on certified organic pastures with no hormones and humanely harvested. “The whole idea is contrary to modern beef production,” Figgins said. “We’re taking the estate winery model and applying it to beef.”

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NORTHWEST WINE

‘Bargain Bob’ sniffs through Cab-Merlot blends under $10 BY “BARGAIN BOB” WOEHLER

The grapes: Cabernet SauvignonMerlot blend or visa versa. The word: We here in the Pacific Northwest are truly blessed because all of our Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes make wonderfully fruity, delicious and smooth wines even when the wineries make a less-expensive blend to move out the door. While favorite vineyards and handcrafted reserves make for some glorious Cabs and Merlot, many times the “lesser” blends — some of them nonvintage — are not to be overlooked. It’s certainly on the radar of ol’ Bargain Bob, who can shop around and find plenty of these blends for less than $10 — most under $8. The match: Pizza, pasta, any kind of red meat, especially hamburger, roast chicken and assorted cheeses. Here are some of the bargains (prices are what I’ve found them for, which are below retail): Snoqualmie 2007 Whistle Stop Red CabMerlot, Columbia Valley, $7: Vibrant black

cherry and currant aromas combine to offer the same sweet fruit flavors. The structure features soft and supple tannins. Hogue Cellars 2007 Cab-Merlot, Columbia Valley, $6: This screwcapped bottle

makes it easy to get at the well-structured drink, which strikes a balance of oak with fruit. The accents are reminiscent of fresh cherries and strawberries.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Barnard Griffin NV Cabernet-Merlot, Columbia Valley, $8: Its beguiling nose of

vanilla and baking spice yields a palate of plum, cherry and chocolate flavors. Columbia Crest 2006 Two Vines Merlot-Cab, Columbia Valley $7: The aromas of

raspberry, black cherry and blackberry carry on through to the palate with a sublime mouthfeel. Bridgeview 2005 Blue Moon Cab-Merlot, Oregon, $10: One of Oregon’s

largest wineries is on the road to the Oregon Caves in the scenic Illinois Valley. This vintage features aromas of cherries and cloves with ripe plum flavors. Ste. Chapelle NV Soft Red, Idaho, $6: Here’s a

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah that’s for those who like less alcohol (10.5%). It’s also slightly off-dry, but good acidity balances the sweet cherry flavor and hint of citrus. Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate NV CabMerlot, British Columbia, $16 CDN: Intense

black currant and spicy pepper aromas marry with the lively plum and blackberry notes. This release is available in a 1.5-liter bottle at provincial liquor stores.

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NORTHWEST WINE

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Pagans seek higher calling with ‘Communion’ BY JON BAUER

Bless them, for they know exactly what they’re doing. And they know not everyone’s going to be happy about it. “I had one guy from Boise who called and threatened me,” admitted Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz, one of three partners in Thirsty Pagans, a very small Walla Walla winery with a very big and slightly twisted sense of humor. What would upset someone in Boise? A glance at the label for Thirsty Pagans’ inaugural release tells you all you need to know: Three monks and a wench happily imbibe around a cask below the word “Communion.” There’s a sermon in the label’s name, Inglis-Chowanietz said, but it’s not intentionally blasphemous. Inglis-Chowanietz grew up Episcopalian, a faith that embraces wine and serves the real stuff, rather than grape juice, as part of the sacred ritual of Communion. But her husband, Rob Chowanietz and his best friend, Crandall Kyle, grew up in more religiously strict households where wine and alcohol weren’t tolerated. So when the three gathered to start their own winery after working elsewhere in the Northwest wine industry, drawing on and rebelling a little from their faiths provided a natural connec-

tion to their feelings about wine and how to celebrate it. Inglis-Chowanietz, a talented painter, designed the label basing it on a Goya print from the 18th century. She sees no contradiction in enjoying wine and celebrating her faith. “Jesus, of course, turned water into wine, so he was the first master vintner,” she said. And while there’s a sly homage to communion wine, Inglis-Chowanietz said, they also meant for people to think about the communion of family and friends. “Absolutely, there’s a dual meaning

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there,” she said. “Communion is about getting together and celebrating life and everything.” The 2005 Communion, Thirsty Pagans’ first release earlier this winter, was limited to 250 cases, priced at $26 and rated “Outstanding!” by Wine Press Northwest. It’s a blend of 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 15 percent Merlot and 5 percent each of Malbec and Petit Verdot, primarily from the Horse Heaven Hills. Before aging in French oak, most of the fruit was crushed in an old basket press at L’Ecole No. 41 in Lowden, Wash., Inglis-Chowanietz said, but the Merlot received some old-school foot-stomping from her and a friend. The monks, no doubt, would approve. Communion’s marketing and sales have been more high-tech. Without a tasting room, almost all of the sales have been through word of mouth, with Inglis-Chowanietz taking orders over their website and Facebook page and delivering wine personally, but that’s offered its own opportunities for communion with new friends. “I just delivered a case to a Lutheran minister who told me he appreciated our sense of humor,” Inglis-Chowanietz said. “He said he was going to serve it to his parish.” Thirsty Pagans: 1111 Blalock Drive, Walla Walla, WA 99362, thirstypagans.com, 509-910-1940.

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NORTHWEST WINE

Northwest cheese plate

Pair Mt. Townsend Seastack with fruity whites, sparklers BY ANDY PERDUE

Matt Day and Ryan Trail started one of the first artisan cheese producers on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula with Mount Townsend Creamery in the historic town of Port Townsend. They make no fewer than eight styles of cheese, with the most famous so far called Seastack. Seastack is a Chaource-style cheese that most closely resembles Humboldt Fog, the famed cheese from Cyprus Grove in California (though Humboldt Fog is made from goat milk and Seastack is a cow milk cheese). It’s a semi-soft cheese with gorgeous earthy, salty flavors. It is rolled in sea salt and vegetable ash prior to being aged. It is named for seastacks, the rock columns found along Washington’s rugged ocean shores. This cheese pairs well with dry, fruity white wines such as Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc or a sparkling wine. Un-oaked Chardonnays, which are in vogue now, also are good matches with Seastack. Co-owner Day enjoys Seastack with sparkling wines as well as something a bit off-dry to act as a foil with the tartness and saltiness of the cheese. “You definitely don’t want anything with tannins,” he said. That rules out most reds, though a W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

suave Pinot Noir is a luscious pairing. Day and Trail launched Mount Townsend in 2005 and produced their first commercial cheese in February 2006. They now make more than a halfdozen different styles of cheese, including Cirrus, made in the style of a Camembert; New Moon, a Jack; Trailhead, a semi-hard cheese; Campfire, a smoked Jack; a Scotch ale washed toma; a washed rind tomme; and a truffled fromage. New Moon has become popular with the interest in the Twilight book series (the second book is titled New Moon). Day said the cheese precedes the success of the book and admits he hasn’t taken full advantage of a marketing opportunity. The Forks, Wash., chamber of commerce (where the books are set) has ordered some of the cheese, he said. Mount Townsend’s cheese are not difficult to find. In addition to the creamery’s retail shop in Port Townsend and its website, the cheeses are sold at Whole Foods, Central Market, Metropolitan Market, Beecher’s and many other locations, including a handful of wineries. They also are sold at various farmers markets in Western Washington.

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Each issue, we feature a Northwest cheese and share pairing tips from regional experts. To suggest a cheese, email editor@winepressnw.com. S U M M E R 2 0 1 0 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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NORTHWEST WINE

Jason Priestley, a star in the show Beverly Hills 90210, is part owner of Black Hills Estate Winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.

Priestley adds star power to B.C. winery BY INGRID STEGEMOELLER

At 21, Jason Priestley’s handsome, chiseled face was wellknown to teenage girls everywhere. The fame brought to him by his role on the hit television show Beverly Hills 90210 also opened the door to a lifelong passion for wine and its culture. “We would go to the Napa Valley all the time,” Priestley said of trips he made with an old girlfriend, whom he credits with introducing him to wine. “I really enjoyed wine, and I wanted to learn more about it. We would be in a tasting room … and a winemaker would walk through and stop and say, ‘Aren’t you that guy who’s on the poster in my daughter’s room?’ “So I had this wonderful education from all of these fantastic winemakers from the Napa and Sonoma and Alexander valleys that I couldn’t have gotten otherwise,” said the now 40-year-old Los Angeles resident. “It really just sort of solidified my future in wine.” The Vancouver, B.C., native is now one of the owners of Black Hills Estate Winery in Oliver, B.C. He and some friends had been looking to buy a winery in the Okanagan Valley, Priestley said. “It’s a real up-and-coming winemaking region in North America and also a very beautiful place that all of us like to go and visit,” he said. 24

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Priestley has been part of the ownership group since it purchased the property two years ago. The winery’s production grew to about 6,300 cases in 2009, he said, and probably won’t expand much more. “I think we’re getting pretty close to our ceiling there,” he said. “We want that winery to be producing really hand-crafted, high-quality wines.” That also means staying true to the area’s terroir, Priestley said, citing the winery’s flagship red, Nota Bene, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, all grapes grown on the winery’s 34 acres along the Black Sage Bench. Priestley’s appreciation for regionality becomes clear when he talks about his favorite food and wine pairings. “I’m a big believer in 100 Mile Diet,” Priestley said. “I find that the local wines that are grown in the region tend to go very well with the foods of the region.” But as for many wine aficionados, Priestley’s enjoyment of well-crafted wines is matched by his appreciation of the accompanying culture. “It’s as much about the wine as it is about the travel and the people that you meet and the food and wine combinations … and the chefs that you meet and the foods that you get introduced to,” he said. “It’s a really all-encompassing experience.” W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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NORTHWEST WINE

B.C. man is Canada’s youngest Master of Wine

Pender, a native of Australia who lives in Cawston, B.C., leads Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) classes in the

Okanagan Valley and conducts staff training. He also serves as a wine writer, judge and wine consultant. Pender also maintains a blog at rhyspender.com. He and his wife have a 4-acre vineyard in the Similkameen Valley. Master of Wine certification has been earned by 281 people worldwide since the program began in 1953. The group of 30 in North America to receive Master of Wine status, include

Washington winemaker Bob Betz and the late David Lake. Pender completed the program in six years. “I am still in the relief stage right now. It is still hard to believe that I have finished and passed,” Pender said in a news release. “Fortunately, the relief stage involves celebrating with lots of Champagne.” Pender’s formal induction is scheduled for November in London.

Pacific Northwest Wine Clubs

WEST SEATTLE CELLARS, 6026 California Ave. S.W., Seattle. Thurs. free tastings: 5:30-8 (206) 937-2868 • westseattlecellars.com

VINO! Wine Shop, where you don’t need to know a lot about wine. Join our discount buying club or our “Wine of the Month Club.” Wine tasting every Friday & Saturday. Join the fun at 222 S. Washington St., Spokane, WA 800-826-5674 • 509-838-1229 • vinowine.com

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

In May, British Columbian educator Rhys Pender, 35, became Canada’s youngest Master of Wine. He joins another B.C. resident, Barbara Philip, as one of only four Canadians to earn the title of Master of Wine.

ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS WINECLUBS We offer 2 wine programs to suit your wine preference and budget. A quarterly Washingtononly wine club, 6 btls $200-250/shipment and a monthly or every-other-month international club 2 btls/shipment. www.ellensburgwineworks.com 509-962-VINE (8463) • VINE TALES WINE CLUB • Distinctive wines from smaller cellars with growing reputations -- offering superior values! NW, international & exclusive offerings. www.vinetales.com 1-888-883-VINE (8463)

Washington Greater Seattle Area CITY CELLARS FINE WINES, 1710 N.45th St., Seattle. (206) 632-7238. Tues.-Sat.11-7; Sundays 12-5. www.citycellar.com. Friday tastings 5-7. “In the heart of Wallingford.” DeLAURENTI SPECIALTY FOOD & WINE, 1435 1st Ave. in Seattle's Pike Place Market. Over 1000 wines & 250 Cheeses (800) 873-6685 • www.delaurenti.com deVINE WINES, 15224 Main St. in Mill Creek Town Center, featuring boutique NW wines, 425-357-6200 • www.de-vinewines.com ESQUIN WINE MERCHANTS, 2700 Fourth Ave. S., Seattle. More than 4,000 wines. Discount prices and free local delivery. Open 7 days a week. 206-682-7374. www.esquin.com GEORGE’S WINE SHOPPE, Kelsey Creek Shopping Ctr., 15015 Main St. Ste 115, Bellevue, WA 98007. Wines for every taste! Open Mon.-Sat. 10-6. 425-644-7723 www.georgeswineshoppe.com NORTH CITY BISTRO Wine Shop & Jazz Club Seattle. 1520 NE 177th. Extensive wine selection. 206-365-4447 • www.northcitybistro.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

THE WINE ALLEY, Fairwood Shopping Center, 14276 SE 176th St., Renton, WA 98058 Finest wines from the Pacific NW & the world 425-271-4501 • www.thewinealley.com WINE OUTLET, www.seattlewineoutlet.com Quality wines at discounted prices. Open daily. 1911 1st Ave. S. • (206) 652-1311 946 Elliott Ave. West. • (206) 285-1129

Olympia Area SAVORY FAIRE CAFE & WINE SHOP 135 S. Main St., Montesano, WA Open Mon-Fri: 10:30-3:30. Wine tastings & monthly specialty dinners. Friday wine tasting & tapas 5:30-9pm. www.savoryfaire.com • 360-249-3701 The WINE LOFT, 401 Columbia St. N.W., Olympia, WA 98501. Tues.-Fri. 11-6; Sat. 11-5. 360-754-6208 • www.wineloftoly.com

Tacoma Area WINE BANK, 7017 27th St W.,University Place, WA 98466. Open Tues-Sat. Saturday tastings. Wine club; weekly e-mail specials. We ship! Great wines, great prices, great service! 253-564-1101 • www.winebankup.com

Olympic, Kitsap Peninsula, San Juans OLYMPIC WINE SHOP, Unique NW wine in Poulsbo Village Shopping Center next to Taprock Northwest Grill 19740 7th Ave. N.E. 360.697.9463 • olympicwineshop@comcast.net

Spokane HUCKLEBERRY’S Natural Market, Spokane, 926 S. Monroe, (509) 624-1349. The Inland Northwest’s largest selection of the world’s wines. www.huckleberrysnaturalmarket.com

WILLIAMS SEAFOOD MARKET & WINES, 10627 E. Sprague Ave.,Spokane. Case discounts! “Treat yourself tonight!.” 509-922-4868 WilliamsSeafoodMarketandWines.com

Washington Coast THE CELLAR WINE SHOPPE, Ocean Shores, 949 Point Brown Ave. NW. Open: Thurs-Mon. 360-289-2909 • www.thecellarwineshoppe.com

Central Washington ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS Bottle shop and wine bar. Themed wine tasting every Friday & Saturday. Artisan cheeses, meats, olive oil and more. WE SHIP! www.ellensburgwineworks.com 509-962-VINE (8463) CHELAN RED APPLE MARKET Wine Dept. 310 Manson Hwy. Chelan, WA. Extensive wine department; huge selection from Chelan & Pacific Northwest • Wine Club • On-line sales www.GreatWinesNW.com • 509-682-4521 GIFTS OF THE VINE, Ellensburg, WA. 421 N Pearl St. Suite 100; Tues-Sun afternoons, Pacific NW wines & gifts; Fri-Sun Tastings giftsofthevine@gmail.com • 509-925-1020 LONE PINE FRUIT & ESPRESSO, 23041 Hwy 97 between Wenatchee & Chelan, 17 mi N. of Orondo. Regional wines, specialty foods, gifts. www.lonepinefruit.com • 509-682-1514 MANSON RED APPLE MARKET WINES The best local wines of the Chelan Valley in one convenient location: 1610 Wapato Way in Manson, WA near beautiful Lake Chelan. Daily 6 a.m.-10 p.m. • (509) 687-3168

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100 Great Northwest Wine Destinations STORY BY E R I C D E G E R M A N , A N D Y P E R D U E & J O N B A U E R PHOTOS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N

he Pacific Northwest provides such a diversity of experiences for wine travelers, from the lush wooded regions of Western Oregon and Washington to the vast, stark steppe-shrub areas of Eastern Washington’s Columbia Valley, from

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the fertile soils of Idaho’s Snake River Valley to the wondrous lakes and hills of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. For this issue, we take on the task of identifying 100 Great Northwest Wine Destinations. Eric Degerman,

Andy Perdue and Jon Bauer, editors of Wine Press Northwest and lifelong residents of the Pacific Northwest, put together 10 categories, then highlighted 10 places in each. We used our experience from traveling through our region, but we

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A robin sings in Cave B’s vineyards near Quincy, Wash. Some of the vines here were planted in 1980, making it one of the older vineyards in the state.

also consulted winemakers, restaurateurs and fellow wine lovers on Facebook, Twitter and our weekly e-mail newsletter to determine which businesses we featured. You will notice we avoided the big

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cities in our region, preferring to get into the suburban and rural areas where the majority of our wineries reside. This isn’t meant to be an exhaustive list. Rather, we would like you to

use these 100 destinations as a starting point for exploring Northwest wine country. When you find other places you want to share with others, let us know via email or on Facebook so we can let others know.

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100 destinations club members rent the estate, especially for weekends.

10 GREAT NORTHWEST DESTINATION WINERIES

2901 Old Milton Highway, Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-522-0200, baselcellars.com C H AT E A U S T E . M I C H E L L E This is the Northwest’s original destination winery. Chateau Ste. Michelle opened in 1976 and annually attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors for tastings, tours, concerts, events and more. Nearly 30 years ago, CSM was the only winery in Woodinville. Thanks to the chateau, this community now is home to more than 50 wineries and tasting rooms. 14111 N.E. 145th St., Woodinville, WA 98072, 425-488-1133, ste-michelle.com. K I N G E S TAT E W I N E RY

Mission Hill Family Estate in West Kelowna, B.C., is an ideal place to look at great architecture in addition to sipping superb wine.

WE ENJOY VISITING WINERIES OF all sizes, but to be a “destination winery,” you have to do things on a grand scale. Here are 10 wineries worth planning a weekend around. M I S S I O N H I L L FA M I LY E S TAT E Vancouver native Anthony von Mandl has created a winery experience unlike any other. The architecture of Mission Hill is nothing short of stunning, as it resembles a Tuscan hill town from afar. Enjoy a meal at the Terrace restaurant, sip John Simes’ award-winning wines, and soak in a wine-country experience like no other. 1730 Mission Hill Road, West Kelowna, B.C., V4T 2E4, 250-768-6498, missionhillwinery.com. M A RY H I L L W I N E RY Atop basalt cliffs, this winery in the Columbia Gorge dramatically overlooks the Columbia River and provides a delicious view of Mount Hood. Owners Craig and Vicki Leuthold have turned their dream into one of the most beautiful wineries in the Northwest. Just below the tasting room is a 4,000-seat amphitheater, where national music acts perform each summer. 9774 Highway 14, Goldendale, WA 98620,

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877-627-9445, maryhillwinery.com. TSILLAN CELLARS Bob Jankelson was inspired by visits to Italy and created one of the most dramatic and beautiful wineries in the Pacific Northwest. Tsillan features 40 acres of vines, waterfalls and Sorrento’s, a stunning on-site restaurant that is open year-round. Everything overlooks Lake Chelan. 3875 Highway 97-A, Chelan, WA 98816, 509-682-9463, tsillancellars.com. DOMAINE DROUHIN OREGON In the 1970s and early ’80s, Oregon was trying to find its place in the wine world. It knew it arrived when famed Burgundian Robert Drouhin built a winery in the Dundee Hills. For years, the winery was rarely open to visitors, but now you can experience an operation that helped change everything. 6750 Breyman Orchards Road, Dayton, OR 97114, 503-864-2700, domainedrouhin.com. BASEL CELLARS E S TAT E W I N E RY This stone and wood lodge overlooks Highway 125 and turns more heads than any other winery in the Walla Walla Valley. Beyond is a swimming pool, tennis court and winemaker Justin Basel’s estate vineyards. Wine

Ed King set the standard for aviation radio just after World War II, and his family launched Oregon’s iconic winery in the Lorane Valley in 1991. Its bucolic 1,033 acres are certified organic, with sheep and raptors providing maintenance. Guided tours and library tastings are available each afternoon. 80854 Territorial Road, Eugene, OR 97405, 541-942-9874, kingestate.com. STE. CHAPELLE Opened in 1976, Ste. Chapelle has helped nurture the burgeoning Idaho wine industry by crafting premium wines at remarkable prices. The winery is named after La Sainte Chapelle in Paris, and the building is modeled after it. There’s plenty of room for picnics, and the winery plays host to summer concerts. 19348 Lowell Road, Caldwell, ID 83607, 208-453-7843, stechapelle.com. T E R R A B L A N C A W I N E RY Keith and ReNae Pilgrim launched Terra Blanca on Red Mountain in the mid-1990s with the idea of creating something special. Their first tasting room was simple with breathtaking views, and the winery facility they finished in 2006 is nothing short of stunning. It provides 18,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor banquet space and relies on several local caterers to provide cuisine equal to the views. 34715 N. DeMoss Road, Benton City, WA 99320, 509-588-6082, terrablanca.com. T H R E E R I V E R S W I N E RY About 6 miles west of downtown Walla Walla, Wash., is Three Rivers Winery. In addition to great wine, Three Rivers offers a relaxing atmosphere, a large tasting room and a concert venue. It’s also the only winery in the Northwest with a three-hole golf course you can play for free. 5641 W. Highway 12, Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-526-9463, threeriverswinery.com.

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10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY PICNIC SPOTS MANY NORTHWEST WINERIES provide excellent locations for picnicing. Here are 10 great locations to put down a blanket and share a meal. DONALD MERCANTILE Few have heard of the town of Donald, so this wide spot on the road in the Yakima Valley is pretty special. Off Exit 44 on Interstate 82 near the town of Wapato is the Donald Mercantile and Piety Flats Winery. This is home to one of the best root beer floats you’ll find, and the picnic tables under the apple trees are perfect for resting and eating while on the wine trail. 2560 Donald-Wapato Road, Wapato, WA 98951, 509-877-3115, pietyflatswinery.com.

Kris Russi owns the Piety Flats Winery with her husband and runs its tasting room out of the historic Donald Fruit and Mercantile building in Wapato, Wash.

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ABACELA

About 10 minutes south of downtown Walla Walla, Wash., is this Ste. Michelle-owned winery that focuses on crafting great Merlot. The winery is set amid vineyards and nearby wheat fields, and the patio provides a stunning view of the Blue Mountains.

Earl Jones searched the United States for the best spot to grow Tempranillo, and the gazebo overlooking his cannon and Cox’s Rock is a prime place for a packed lunch. It’s a relaxing 10 minutes from Interstate 5, five minutes from the Wildlife Safari and provides a nice spot to plan out the rest of your Umpqua Valley tour.

about how family farmers — his father included — were being affected by the changing ways of agriculture. By the end of filming, he returned to the family farm and launched this winery on Lake Chelan. The Evans family has created a wonderful oasis at its winery, complete with wildflowers and a waterfall. The nearby family fruitstand is a great source of food for your picnic.

12500 Lookingglass Rd., Roseburg, OR, 97471, 541-679-6642, abacela.com

37 Highway 97-A, Chelan, WA 98816, 509-682-3243, tunnelhillwinery.com.

1736 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-529-0948, northstarwinery.com. M O U N T B A K E R V I N E YA R D S Here’s the plan: Shop for your picnic lunch at the Farmers Market in downtown Bellingham, Wash. (bellinghamfarmers.org), and at Quel Fromage cheese shop (quelfromage.com), in Old Fairhaven, then make your way up the Mount Baker Highway to Mount Baker Vineyards in the North Cascade foothills. The winery offers a tasting room and picnic grounds among the estate vineyard. 4298 Mount Baker Highway, Everson, WA 98247, 360-592-2300, mountbakervineyards.com. K E T T L E VA L L E Y W I N E RY At the end of a dusty road is this winery on the Naramata Bench that is producing some remarkable wines. The winery is named after the Kettle Valley Railway, which now is a popular bike path. The winery location offers stunning views of the southern end of Okanagan Lake, and there is plenty of room on the lawn for enjoying a picnic. 2988 Hayman Road, Naramata, BC V0H 1N0, 250-496-5898, kettlevalleywinery.com.

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C AT H E D R A L R I D G E W I N E RY

ARBOR CREST WINE CELLARS

The Flerchinger family founded one of the Northwest’s prime winery picnic spots, and owner Robb Bell maintains that tradition among the pine trees. There’s the Columbia River and Mount Adams to the north and Mount Hood to the south.

On a cliff overlooking the Spokane Valley, Arbor Crest Wine Cellars provides a perfect location to enjoy a picnic while touring the Inland Empire. The facility was built in 1924 and became a winery in 1985. A fire this past winter damaged the Cliff House, but the winery remains open and is one of the top wine attractions in the Spokane area.

4200 Post Canyon Dr., Hood River, OR 97031, 800-516-8710, cathedralridgewinery.com. B I T N E R V I N E YA R D S The deck adjacent to the Bitners’ new tasting room is perched over their vineyards and the Snake River Valley serves as a fascinating backdrop. Entertainment comes via their trio of Jack Russell terriers. Enjoy your own nibbles alfresco or bring takeout from the nearby Orchard House. 16645 Plum Road, Caldwell, ID 83607, 208-899-7648, bitnervineyards.com T U N N E L H I L L W I N E RY Guy Evans set out to make a documentary

4705 N. Fruit Hill Road, Spokane, WA 99217, 509-927-9463, arborcrest.com. K R A M E R V I N E YA R D S Trudy and Keith Kramer purchased their vineyard site in the northern Willamette Valley and began planting in the mid-1980s. They have created a winery that produces superb wines and provides a fun atmosphere. The Kramers encourage picnics by providing plenty of outdoor seating. 26830 N.W. Olson Road, Gaston, OR 97119, 503-662-4545, kramerwine.com.

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Lunch is served on the patio of the Dundee Bistro.

Famed author Zane Gray loved to fish here. Now, this Umpqua River lodge is home to some of the Northwest’s premier guest chef/winemaker dinners each spring. It’s closed in January and February. Reservations are required the rest of the year. 42705 N. Umpqua Highway, Idleyld Park, OR 97447, 541-498-2230, thesteamboatinn.com. LOCAL LOUNGE & GRILLE The McWatters family proudly features Okanagan Valley wines and local ingredients at its new casual yet swanky restaurant. There’s outside seating, and across the parking lot is the Summerland Waterfront Resort Hotel and Spa. You can dock your boat just outside the restaurant. 12817 Lakeshore Drive, Summerland, B.C. V0H 1Z1, 250-494-8855, thelocalgroup.ca. THREE RIVERS GRILL

10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY RESTAUR ANTS

more than 100 wines from the Wenatchee Valley area and includes an Italian cheese and cured meat shop.

ONE OF THE JOYS OF WINE TOURING is the cuisine you discover. In the Northwest, we are blessed with talented chefs who recognize the quality of fresh local ingredients and the importance of being in the heart of wine country. Here are 10 restaurants to check out.

In the past few years, Walla Walla has been blessed with a number of top chefs and restaurants. While a few were lost during the recession, several remain. Saffron is one of the most exciting eateries in Walla Walla, thanks to its use of fresh regional ingredients and focus on Mediterranean cuisine. And if you have a hankering for Vietnamese food, Pho Sho is next door.

DUNDEE BISTRO This is the quintessential dining experience in Oregon wine country. The always-progressive Ponzi family launched the Dundee Bistro in 1999 on Highway 99W as it crawls through the town of Dundee, about 45 minutes southwest of Portland. The ingredients are as local as possible (which is not difficult given the wonderful farms throughout the Willamette Valley), and the wine list is vast. 100-A S.W. Seventh St., Dundee, OR 97115, 503-554-1650, dundeebistro.com. VISCONTI’S RESTORANTE I TA L I A N O Chef/co-owner Daniel Carr showcased Washington wineries at his original Wenatchee restaurant years before it was trendy. His Leavenworth location features

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1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Wenatchee, WA 98801, 509-662-5013, 636 Front St., Leavenworth, WA, 98826, 509-548-1213, viscontis.com. SAFFRON MEDITERRANEAN KITCHEN

125 W. Alder St., Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-525-2112, saffronmediterraneankitchen.com. RHODY CAFE

Jim Dey and his Olympic medal-winning sailing wife arrived from the East Coast, gutted a home built in 1895 and transformed it into remarkable two-story restaurant. It spotlights Columbia Gorge wines, and many of its 250 seats are outside with a view of the Columbia River. 601 Oak St., Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-8883, 3riversgrill.com. PICAZO 7SEVENTEEN Is there a hotter chef in Eastern Washington than Frank Magaña? He could stand out in most metropolitan areas, yet he chooses to ply his craft in the Yakima Valley, where he has ready access to fresh ingredients and plenty of winemakers. Expect an amazing experience whether you head to Picazo or happen upon a Magaña-catered event. 717 Sixth St., Prosser, WA 99350, 509-786-1116, picazo717.com. BRICK 29 BISTRO Some Idaho winemakers believe Dustan Bristol’s restaurant beats anything in the state capital. He is the reigning Iron Chef Boise champion, and he earned our 2009 Best Idaho Wine List Award. Ask for his lacquered bacon, which is available for retail but quickly sells out.

Whatcom and Skagit counties can’t boast of many wineries, but they both have restaurants that pay due homage to Northwest wines and celebrate the bounty provided by local farmers and fishermen. The Rhododendron Cafe, at the gateway to Chuckanut Drive, has for 25 years delighted locals and visitors with a menu, refreshed each month, that focuses on a particular cuisine. In coming months, you’ll find dishes inspired by Spain and Portugal, the Caribbean and South Pacific and the Northwest itself. And don’t be surprised by an extensive wine list that favors the Northwest.

What other property would create terroirbased salt for a 100-mile meal? It remains the gold standard among Pacific Northwest restaurants. In fact, Wine Press Northwest now refers its annual wine list competition as “The Herbies” because Ron Zimmerman’s array is unbeatable. All who enjoy Northwest wines should have this on their bucket list.

5521 Chuckanut Drive, Bow, WA 98232, 360-766-6667, rhodycafe.com

14590 NE 145th St., Woodinville, WA 98072, 425-485-5300, theherbfarm.com.

320 11th Ave. S., Nampa, ID 83651, 208-468-0029, brick29.com. T H E H E R B FA R M

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The view from Tendrils Restaurant is just one of its attractions.

10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINERY RESTAUR ANTS THE CONCEPT OF WINERIES running their own restaurants is catching on throughout the Pacific Northwest, with British Columbia leading the way and Washington quickly catching up. Here are 10 winery restaurants to try while visiting wine country. T E N D R I L S R E S TA U R A N T The on-premise restaurant of Cave B Estate Winery and Cave B Inn at SageCliffe pours only house juice. Freddy Arredondo gave up his culinary career to begin making wines for the family operation, and his bottlings complement chef Joe Ritchie’s cuisine because of their high acidity and low alcohol. Don’t miss the beet salad paired with the Sangiovese. 348 Silica Road N.W., Quincy, WA 98848, 509-785-2283, sagecliffe.com.

new winery in Richland, Wash., it knew it wanted to create something special. The result is Taverna Tageris, a beautiful on-site restaurant like no other. There is year-round indoor seating and a seasonal outdoor patio. The food tends toward Mediterranean. The wood-fired oven helps make this a special stop.

Cellars, is in the Yamhill County town of Carlton and is one of the few Oregon wineries with an on-site restaurant. Like the wines, the food is Italian inspired. The Cucina is open seasonally and is available for lunch Fridays through Sundays, with dinners on Fridays and Saturdays.

844 Tulip Lane, Richland, WA 99352, 509-628-0020, tagariswines.com.

750 W. Lincoln St., Carlton, OR 97111, 503-852-0002, www.canasfeastwinery.com.

WINE O’CLOCK

PA S S A T E M P O R E S TA U R A N T

Susan Bunnell runs the Wine O’Clock Wine Bar at Bunnell Family Cellar at the Vintners Village in the heart of the Yakima Valley. This superb full-scale restaurant is just steps away from a dozen wineries, and the food is superb. A speciality is pizza from the wood-fired oven.

Across the courtyard from Nk’Mip Cellars is the restaurant for Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa. It carries a bistro feel and inspired cuisine, starting with phenomenal breakfast offerings and including tapas that spotlights local cheeses and cured meats. From the patio, one can watch nesting osprey and gaze across Lake Osoyoos.

548 Cabernet Court, Prosser, WA 99350, 509-786-2197, wineoclockwinebar.com. T H E C H AT E A U R E S TA U R A N T AT FA I R E L E P O N T W I N E RY Debé Brazil and winemaker/husband Doug helped pioneer the restaurant movement among Washington wineries. Lunch inside the historic fruit packing warehouse — now Chateau Faire Le Pont — is available every day but Sunday. Dinner is five days a week. Linen-covered tables are a dropped napkin away from the winery’s majestic tasting bar. 1 Vineyard Way, Wenatchee, WA 98801, 509-667-9463, fairelepont.net.

B B Q I N T H E V I N E YA R D One of the best meals you will have at a winery is BBQ in the Vineyard at Lake Chelan Winery on the north shore of Lake Chelan. The Kludt family was the one of the first to convert orchards to vineyards in this destination region, and it has created a great family-friendly atmosphere for its outdoor barbecue. It’s open 4 to 8 p.m. daily from May through October. 3519 Highway 150, Chelan, WA 98816, 509-687-9463, lakechelanwinery.com. TAV E R N A TA G A R I S When the Tagaris family decided to build a

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CELLAR DOOR BISTRO One of the original winery restaurants in the Northwest, the Cellar Door Bistro is inside Sumac Ridge Estate Winery in Summerland, B.C. It is open nearly yearround and relies on the abundant fresh ingredients available in the Okanagan Valley. 17403 Highway 97, Summerland, BC V0H 1Z0, 250-494-0451, sumacridge.com. C U C I N A AT C A N A’ S F E A S T W I N E RY Cana’s Feast, formerly known as Cuneo

1200 Rancher Creek Road, Osoyoos, BC V0H 1V0, 250-495-8007, passatemporestaurant.com. K I N G E S TAT E R E S TA U R A N T Amid the huge plantings of organic vineyards are 30 acres of berry patches, gardens and orchards. Executive chef Michael Landsberg gets his pick for the 200-seat restaurant that opened in 2006. Among the memorable touches are jars of estate honey and jams made with wine grapes. 80854 Territorial Road, Eugene, OR 97405, 541-942-9874, kingestate.com. THE SONORA ROOM R E S TA U R A N T Guests of Burrowing Owl Estate Winery’s swanky cottages will see suggestions for familiar wines under each item on the menu, considered by many to be the finest in the South Okanagan. Every bottle emptied in the restaurant gets treated and reused at the winery. 100 Burrowing Owl Place, RR#1 Site 52, Comp 20, Oliver, BC V0H 1T0, 250-498-0620, bovwine.ca.

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100 destinations Gorge vintners pour here for “Warm Up with Wine” events. And via Facebook, you might see whom you will be sharing the inn with.

Black Walnut Inn & Vineyard features an arched gatehouse that leads to its courtyard

172 W. Jewett Blvd., White Salmon, WA, 98672, 509-493-2335, innofthewhitesalmon.com. BIRCHFIELD MANOR C O U N T RY I N N For more than 30 years, the Masset family has set the standard for lodging in Washington wine country. Their cuisine rivals that of any restaurant in the Northwest, and Wine Press Northwest long has honored the wine program. 2018 Birchfield Road, Yakima, WA 98901, 509-452-1960, birchfieldmanor.com. A B B E Y R O A D FA R M B & B You are unlikely to run across a more unusual or fascinating B&B than Abbey Road Farm. Located in Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton District, Abbey Road’s suites are made from converted grain silos. Once inside, you will be amazed at what John and Judi Stuart have created here. This is a working farm, and one of the joys is the fresh goat cheese Judi crafts from her resident herd. The breakfast is one you’ll talk about for years.

10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY B&BS A BED & BREAKFAST MIGHT BE THE PERFECT WAY to enjoy a leisurely vacation in wine country. Oregon’s Yamhill County boasts about 20 B&Bs, and you’ll find many others throughout the Pacific Northwest. Prepare to be pampered with the 10 inns we’ve highlighted here.

10501 N.E. Abbey Road, Carlton, OR 97111, 503-852-6278, abbeyroadfarm.com.

2258 Wine Country Road, Prosser, WA 99350, 509-786-7277, desertwindwinery.com.

Set among 65 acres in the Snake River Valley, it has the feel of a British country mansion. Ste. Chapelle wines and appetizers are available each night. The Coyotes on the Creek downtown tasting room and Sunnyslope area wineries are just minutes away.

A S H T O N W O O D S R E T R E AT With more than a half-dozen wineries, Washington’s Bainbridge Island is a wine-touring experience. Pamper yourself during a visit by staying at the Ashton Woods Retreat. It provides two suites that cater to serenity and indulgence. Looking for a chance to stretch your legs? The 10-acre property has walking trails amid peaceful nature. 5515 N.E. Tolo Road, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110, 206-303-8987, ashtonwoodsretreat.com.

B L A C K WA L N U T I N N & V I N E YA R D

T H E H U C K L E B E R RY H AV E N B E D & B R E A K FA S T

This B&B amid vineyards high in the Dundee Hills is an ideal way to enjoy Oregon wine country. This is a stunning facility with remarkable views of the surrounding valley, with nine suites, impeccable service and a delicious breakfast that will get you revved up for a full day of wine touring.

Ian and Ruth Leslie turned their house into a true and homey B&B experience using delicious huckleberries as their theme. Within 10 minutes, you can be on the good end of a pour at Chateau Faire Le Pont or Saint Laurent.

9600 N.E. Worden Hill Road, Dundee, OR 97115, 866-429-4114, blackwalnut-inn.com.

ity and B&B. The four upstairs suites overlook the Yakima River and provide views of the Horse Heaven and Rattlesnake hills and put you in the heart of Washington’s oldest wine region. Spa services are available.

1453 Okanogan Ave., Wenatchee, WA, 98801, 509-881-9349, thehuckleberryhavenbedandbreakfast.com.

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INN OF THE WHITE SALMON

The Fries family has created a destination winery in Washington’s Yakima Valley that is unparalleled. The Prosser facility includes a vast tasting room, restaurant, conference facil-

Built in 1937, this 16-room, two-story brick building wouldn’t look out of place in Seattle’s Fremont District. Guests can buy wine at the front desk. In the fall and winter,

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WILD ROSE MANOR B E D & B R E A K FA S T

5800 Oasis Road, Caldwell, ID 83607, 208-454-3331, wildrosemanor.com. T H E V I L L A AT H E S T E R C R E E K Hester Creek Estate Winery, one of the Okanagan Valley’s historic wineries, added six Tuscan-theme bungalows to its upscale operations. Vineyards of the Golden Mile are below your patio and pristine shrub-steppe behind. Vegetarians can be accommodated each morning. 13163 — 326TH Ave., Road 8, Oliver, BC V0H 1T0, 250-498-4435, hestercreek.com/villa D E L F I N O V I N E YA R D S G U E S T C O T TA G E Jim and Terri Delfino provide a charming experience at their 160-acre property near the Coast Range with their winery, vineyard and a one-bedroom guest cottage. There’s a hot tub and lap pool to relax in after walking their trails and vineyard rows. A morning basket features homemade pastries and local preserves. 3829 Colonial Road, Roseburg, OR, 97471, 541-673-7575, delfinovineyards.com.

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An indoor pool is one of the many ways to enjoy the mineral water at Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa.

10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY HOTELS IF YOU PREFER HOTELS TO B&BS or economy lodging, Northwest wine country offers many opportunities. Here are 10 locations to rest your feet after a long day of wine touring. BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS R E S O RT & S PA The hustle and bustle of the Portland/Vancouver area might seem hours away, yet it’s little more than 30 minutes from here. Therapy comes in forms other than these namesake springs and includes short trips to the growing array of Columbia Gorge wineries, nearby golf courses and hiking trails. 1252 E. Cascade Dr., North Bonneville, WA 98639, 509-427-7767, bonnevilleresort.com. P E N T I C T O N L A K E S I D E R E S O RT For decades, this community on the southern end of Okanagan Lake has been a vacation destination for those in need of a big dose of sunshine. With the emergence of the Okanagan Valley wine industry in the past decade, Penticton is a great home base for wine travelers. The Lakeside Resort is the top hotel in town and provides expansive views of the lake. 21 Lakeshore Drive W., Penticton, B.C V2A 7M5, 250-493-8221, pentictonlakesideresort.com.

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MARCUS WHITMAN Named after a 19th century missionary who was on the wrong end of the Whitman Massacre, this luxury hotel was built in the late 1920s. It fell into disrepair until it was purchased and refurbished to its former glory in the past decade. It is well known for its beautiful accommodations as well as highly regarded cuisine. 6 W. Rose St., Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-525-2200, marcuswhitmanhotel.com.

GRAND OKANAGAN In the unofficial capital of the British Columbia Interior, this hotel on the shore of Okanagan Lake has long been a favorite for those seeking luxury. Its 390 rooms provide stunning views of Okanagan Lake, and it’s a perfect location for nearby restaurants and wineries. 1310 Water St., Kelowna, BC V1Y 9P3, 250-763-4500, deltahotels.com. HOTEL OREGON

COLUMBIA GORGE HOTEL The Columbia Gorge Hotel has been an Oregon classic since it was built in 1921. It sits atop a cliff above the Columbia River and is luxurious in every sense. After closing in January 2009, it reopened in October under new Northwest ownership. 4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-5566, columbiagorgehotel.com.

This hotel in downtown McMinnville, Ore., is another McMenamin property and can best be described as Old World and a bit funky. The rooms are fairly spacious, and the food is delicious. Head to the roof for an evening drink and a view of the surrounding hillsides. 310 N.E. Evans St., McMinnville, OR 97128, 503-472-8427, mcmenamins.com. C A M P B E L L’ S R E S O RT

WILLOWS LODGE Just across the street from Chateau Ste. Michelle — and a moment’s walk from The Herbfarm and Redhook Ale — is the highly regarded Willows Lodge. In addition to being in the middle of Woodinville’s burgeoning winery scene, Willows Lodge provides an onsite spa, a great restaurant in the Barking Frog and digitally controlled showers. 14580 N.E. 145th St., Woodinville, WA 98072, 425-424-3900, willowslodge.com.

Great-grandsons of the founder recently spent $3 million to renovate the 170 rooms at this historic second home for vacationing families. It’s centrally located downtown on the shores of Lake Chelan, and its Veranda Bistro & Bar has earned Wine Press Northwest’s Best Washington Wine List Award for the past six years. 104 W. Woodin Ave., Chelan, WA 98816, 800-553-8225, campbellsresort.com T H E C O E U R D ’ A L E N E R E S O RT

JACKSONVILLE INN Deep in Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley, the Jacksonville Inn is a charming hotel and restaurant in the historic town of Jacksonville. It’s a European-style hotel with eight luxurious rooms, as well as a wonderful restaurant and wine shop downstairs. 175 E. California St., Jacksonville, OR 97530, 541-899-1900, jacksonvilleinn.com.

One of the Northwest’s most luxurious properties, it overlooks Lake Coeur d’Alene and operates one of the world’s most talkedabout golf courses. Beverly’s on the seventh floor features Northwest cuisine and wines to match. The Coeur d’Alene Resort, 115 S. Second St., Coeur d’Alene, ID 83816, 800-688-5253, cdaresort.com.

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Olive Marketplace & Café in Walla Walla.

10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY BREAKFASTS A FULL DAY OF WINE TOURING CAN go astray in a hurry if you don’t begin with a hearty breakfast. Here are 10 of our favorite starting points in Northwest wine country. OLIVE MARKETPLACE & CAFÉ Tom Maccarone and Jake Crenshaw of T. Maccarone’s bistro in Walla Walla took over Merchants Ltd. earlier this year, moving into a venerable place on Main Street. It’s open for breakfast beginning at 7 a.m. and provides the same subdued and serene atmosphere Merchants offered for more than 30 years. 21 E. Main St., Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-526-0200, tmaccarones.com THE ORCHARD HOUSE This young Snake River Valley diner provides an ideal base coat for a day of wine touring. Choices include beignets, Swedish pancakes, breakfast burrito or migas — a TexMex egg dish. Within three minutes, you can be on the doorstep of a winery. 14949 Sunnyslope Road, Caldwell, ID 83607, 208-459-8200, theorchardhouse.us. TOMASELLI’S PA S T RY M I L L & C A F E Per capita, Elkton — population 200 yet with a handful of quality wineries — ranks as the Northwest’s best hub for wine touring, especially with Tomaselli’s in town for 30

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years. It opens across the street from Brandborg Winery at 6 a.m. and offers more than a dozen egg dishes that span themes of Mexican, Greek and Italian and feature polenta or eggplant. Don’t be in a rush. 14836 Umpqua Highway, Elkton, OR 97436, 541-584-2855, tomasellispastrymill.com

provided great food for a quarter-century. The restaurant overlooks a grass commons area, and there is outdoor seating on those glorious sunny days in Whatcom County. The breakfast menu regularly includes a choice of quiches, bagels, croissants and baked goods. 1208 11th St., Bellingham, WA 98225, 360-647-0092, colophoncafe.com.

R E D F O X B A K E RY Just around the corner from the McMennamin-owned Hotel Oregon in downtown McMinnville, the Red Fox Bakery is a great starting point for exploring the northern Willamette Valley. The focus is on baked goods and coffee, and there isn’t much room for a leisurely breakfast, so this is a great option if you are in a bit of a hurry. 328 N.E. Evans St., McMinnville, OR 97128, 503-434-5098, redfoxbakery.net. D O L C E D E L I & C AT E R I N G It can be a bit difficult to understand Jörg Hoffmeister’s English, but the pastries and smoked meats he and wife Annina create are delectable. Morning offerings include scrambled egg croissant and fair trade espresso. On weekends, there’s smoked salmon eggs benedict. 8710 Main St., Osoyoos, BC V0H 1V0, 250-495-6807, dolcideli.com.

B L U E B E R RY H I L L S The emerging Lake Chelan wine region is a great weekend destination, and the perfect place to start a day of touring is Blueberry Hills Farm in Manson on the north shore. The country-style restaurant looks over eight acres of berries. Breakfasts are hearty, to say the least, boasting “the best Eggs Benedict known to mankind.” 1315 Washington St., Manson, WA 98831, 509-687-2379, wildaboutberries.com. G O O D E A RT H C O F F E E H O U S E If you are in the central Okanagan Valley, Good Earth is a perfect jumping-off point for wine touring. The focus is on great coffee, but you’ll find plenty to eat for breakfast and lunch, too. Fresh-baked goods are the primary offerings in the morning, with sandwiches and soups available for lunch. 102-2949 Pandosy St., Kelowna, BC V1Y 1W1, 250-448-7768, goodearthcafes.com.

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BARKING FROG

Crêpes are a speciality at this morning stop for Yakima Valley winemakers, who use the drive-thru for scones and pastries during crush. Executive chef Roger Hazzard also stages winemaker dinners.

Directly across the street from Chateau Ste. Michelle — and sharing a parking lot with The Herbfarm and Willows Lodge — is the Barking Frog, a restaurant best known for its superb dinners but also a hot spot for breakfast. If you plan to tackle the fast-growing Woodinville wine scene, you’ll want to start here. A full menu ranges from fruit plates to hearty omelettes.

122 N. 16th St., Sunnyside, WA 98944, 509-837-3936, bonvinosbistro.com. COLOPHON CAFÉ In the funky Fairhaven district of Bellingham, Wash., the Colophone Café has

14582 N.E. 145th St., Woodinville, WA 98072, 425-424-2999, willowslodge.com.

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10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY ESPRESSO PLACES YOU’RE IN THE NORTHWEST, SO good coffee is an essential part of the local diet. Remember to avoid drinking coffee or tea immediately prior to tasting wine, as they can mess with your palate. F LY I N G M C O F F E E G A R A G E This hangout for two local colleges ranks among the most fascinating coffee operations in the Northwest. A former Firestone tire station, it’s been home for four years to bustling young barristas flanked by kitschy political gifts, rotating local artwork, wi-fi and a case of pastry that caters to vegans. Beans are prepared three times a week in the garage with the slogan of “Roast like a butterfly, sting like caffeine.” At night, there’s live music, giving a new meaning to garage bands. 1314 Second St. S., Nampa, ID, 83651, 208-467-5533, flyingmcoffee.com.

Mocha art and monster cookies are the fare at the Flying M Coffee Garage.

THE VOGUE You gotta love a place that serves coffee in the morning, local juice at the wine bar in back and encourages winemakers to dance in public. The Cooneys opened their “liquid lounge” in 2005 and continue to serve up some lively joe, espresso and chai. 117 E. Woodin Ave., Chelan, WA 98816, 509-588-5282, thevoguelounge.com. F O RT U N AT O ’ S COFFEE & WINE BAR The big draw here is the wine tastings, but locals also love Fortunato’s for its coffee. Additionally, if you’re hungry, this is a good spot for lunch or dinner, and there’s often live music on the weekends. 17410 133rd Ave. N.E., Woodinville, WA 98072, 425-481-5444, fortunatos.net. A N J O U B A K E RY

WA L L A WA L L A R O A S T E RY If you’re looking for seriously good coffee, this operation amid the cluster of wineries at the Walla Walla Regional Airport is not to be overlooked. It offers no fewer than 20 styles of blends and roasts, and the comfortable cafe is a good place to take a load off. 290 A St., Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-526-3211, wallawallaroastery.com. UNDERGROUND CAFÉ & COFFEEHOUSE This hidden gem is a favorite for travelers on the northern Willamette Valley wine trail. In addition to great coffee, you’ll also find breakfast offerings, sandwiches and more. 1002 N. Springbrook Road, Newberg, OR 97132, 503-554-1843, undergroundcafeandcoffeehouse.com.

COCK & BULL CAPPUCINO BAR It’s not uncommon to overhear some wine industry scuttlebutt inside this stop on the main drag through Oliver. Mochas are made for adults, and you can fill your own cup with drip coffee. The wholesome and imaginative Santa Fe-style breakfast burrito is another reason to stop. 34849 97th St., Oliver, BC, V0H 1T0, 250-498-6261. 10 SPEED COFFEE CO. This highly regarded coffeehouse in the Columbia Gorge is famed for its small-batch roasting and attention to detail. You’ll also find several food options. It has a second location in the town of Mosier, Ore. 1412 13th St., Ste. 300, Hood River, OR 97031, 541-386-3165, 10-speedcoffee.com.

The Knights know dough, launching their country shop just off U.S. 2 in 1995. Caffe Vita coffee is served, and the baked creations are serious, including Fruit Nut Crostini. Call ahead for their pies. The hours seem designed for wine lovers on long weekends — 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Thursday-Monday.

When your wine travels take you to Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, a visit to historic Port Townsend is in order. This coffee shop a few blocks from the ferry dock on Water Street is a favorite for locals and visitors alike.

Whether Rogue Valley wineries or Shakespeare bring you to this Southern Oregon city, seek out Noble for the best cup of coffee in the region. This is the place for self-described coffee nerds.

3898 Old Monitor Highway, Cashmere, WA 98815, 509-782-4360, anjoubakery.com.

215 Tyler St., Port Townsend, WA 98368, 360-379-2630.

281 Fourth St., Ashland, OR 97520, 541-488-3288, noblecoffeeroasting.com.

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TYLER STREET COFFEE HOUSE

NOBLE COFFEE ROASTING

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100 destinations screen TV. On the other side of a bookcase is a club-members-only lounge. 2880 Lee Road, Suite D, Prosser, WA 509-786-3497, alexandrianicolecellars.com. R I O V I S TA W I N E S How many wineries can you pull up to in a boat? At least one, as Rio Vista sits along the Columbia River a few miles north of the turnoff to Chelan. John and Jan Little have created a fantastic little winery that includes a Tiki-style tasting hut next to the river. 24415 Highway 97, Chelan, WA 98866, 509-682-9713, riovistawines.com. O LY M P I C C E L L A R S Olympic Cellars began life as Neuharth Cellars in the 1970s and became Olympic Cellars in the mid-1990s. In 1997, the winery moved to its current location to make way for a new highway. The tasting room is in a refurbished barn and is run by owner Kathy Charlton. 255410 Highway 101, Port Angeles, WA 98362, 360-452-0160, olympiccellars.com.

Wine is poured in the Latah Creek Wine Cellars tasting room.

10 GREAT NORTHWEST TASTING ROOMS IF YOU’RE WINE TOURING, TASTING room ambiance and amenities matter almost as much as the wine. Here are 10 wineries that take special care of their guests. L ATA H C R E E K W I N E C E L L A R S Longtime winemaker Mike Conway launched Latah Creek in 1982, the same year he helped start Hogue Cellars in the Yakima Valley. He and wife Ellena have carved out a fun tasting room and gift shop in what would otherwise be considered a humble location. 13030 E. Indiana Ave., Spokane Valley, WA 99216, 509-926-0164, latahcreek.com.

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Interstate 5, is a great place to taste and enjoy the views. 880 Enchanted Way S.E., Turner, OR 97392, 503-588-9463, wvv.com. I N D I A N C R E E K W I N E RY Few offer a tasting experience as laid-back and friendly as the Stowe family has since 1982, and the continued mom-and-pop feel of the cozy tasting room is charming and refreshing. It’s open Saturdays and Sundays. On those days, it’s “Wine-Thirty!” 1000 N. McDermott, Kuna, ID 83634, 208-922-4791, indiancreekwinery.com. T I N H O R N C R E E K V I N E YA R D S Kenn and Sandra Oldfield developed one of the Okanagan’s most visitor-friendly wineries when they launched Tinhorn Creek in the mid-1990s. The expansive tasting room overlooks the southern Okanagan Valley and Black Sage Bench, and demonstration vineyards provide a fun education. 32830 Tinhorn Creek Road, Oliver, BC V0H 1T0, 250-498-3743, tinhorn.com. ALEXANDRIA NICOLE CELLARS

W I L L A M E T T E VA L L E Y V I N E YA R D S Jim Bernau purchased this beautiful property in 1983 and launched the winery six years later. It has developed into one of Oregon’s largest and most respected wineries. The tasting room, south of Salem on

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While husband Jarrod grows the grapes and makes the wine, Ali Boyle is the namesake of the winery, and their two tasting rooms show her touch. The moment you step in the door of their Prosser tasting room, you forget this is part of a strip mall. There’s a tasting bar, comfortable couches and a big

Skiing first lured Stephen Meyer to the Idaho Panhandle in 1995, but his wines and wife Julie’s well-appointed “Lifestyle Store” fit this fine arts community. The tasting bar was created by local craftsmen. There’s a new kitchen, live music on weekends, and it’s where savvy fans refill their Bistro Rouge magnums. 220 Cedar, Sandpoint, ID 83864, 208-265-8545, powine.com. J B O O K WA LT E R When John Bookwalter took over his parents’ winery in the late 1990s, Bookwalter was a solid, run-of-the-mill operation. The young Bookwalter has changed everything, converting the tasting room into a lounge that features small-plate dishes, regional cheeses and live music. It is now one of the most popular destinations in the heart of Washington wine country. 894 Tulip Lane, Richland, WA 99352, 509-627-5000, bookwalterwines.com. SAINT LAURENT E S TAT E W I N E RY Few wineries in the Northwest provide a more panoramic, spectacular and romantic view, especially from the gazebo perched high above orchards in the Wenatchee Valley and Columbia River. Beautiful gardens and a creek surround the homey tasting room that’s tucked inside a Craftsman-style house. Among the clever gifts are “I Got Lucky at Saint Laurent Winery” T-shirts, a tribute to the Mracheks’ consumer-priced line of wines. 4147 Hamlin Road, Malaga, WA 98828, 509-888-9463, saintlaurent.net.

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10 GREAT NORTHWEST WINE COUNTRY ACTIVITIES WHEN YOU’VE HAD ENOUGH WINE, it’s time to check out what else you can do in wine country. Here are 10 diversions from tasting rooms. W I L D L I F E S A FA R I You’ll see lions and tigers and bears on the 4.5-mile drive through the Wildlife Safari park where more than 500 animals have plenty of room to roam. Plan ahead and you can arrange a special animal encounter such as feeding carrots to the giraffes or having an elephant paint you a picture or wash your car. There’s also a petting zoo, a train to ride, a cafe and a gift shop to check out. 1790 Safari Road, Winston, OR 97496, 541-679-6761, wildlifesafari.net.

Four-year-old Sanurra was born at Wildlife Safari as part of its cheetah breeding program. and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, you can’t do better than driving to Hurricane Ridge. The park road from the visitors center in Port Angeles takes 45 minutes (and a $15 parks fee). 3002 Mount Angeles Road, Port Angeles, 98362 WA, 360-565-3130, http://tinyurl.com/NPSHurricaneRidge.

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If you want an Oregon wine country experience like no other, see it from a hot-air balloon. Vista Balloon Adventures near Newberg has been providing balloon rides for more than a decade. A three-hour ride includes a brunch after the flight, and prices go down if you have a larger group.

After 22 years in Seattle, founder Nina Ummel decided to expand with the Yakima Valley Spa Retreat in downtown Yakima. Massage, skin and nail care are yours to enjoy before or after wine touring. If in need of a body care remedy, try their Wine Collection.

Darigold is a huge producer of dairy products in the Northwest, and the Dairy Fair just off Interstate 82 in the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside is a great side trip, especially if you have children. About 150 million pounds of cheese are produced here annually, and you can take a self-guided tour to see how.

Marina Way, Penticton, BC, V2A 1H5, 250-492-4090, casabellaprincess.com.

Wine, Walla Walla and golf are akin to a holy trinity for some Northwest oenophiles. The quality of this public course is outstanding, selected as home to the 2010 Northwest Open in just its second year of operation.

About 95 percent of Olympic National Park is designated as wilderness and is best explored by foot. But if you’re looking for panoramic vistas of craggy mountaintops, wildflower- and subalpine-covered hillsides

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399 E. Yakima Ave., Suite 183, Yakima, WA 98901, 509-225-4772, ummelina.com. O R E G O N C AV E S

DARIGOLD CHEESE TOUR

At 84 miles long and as deep as 700 feet in some spots, the waters of British Columbia’s Okanagan Lake are a major influence upon grape growing from Vernon to Penticton and home to the mythical Ogopogo. The paddlewheeler Casabella Princess calls Penticton its home port. She offers wine dinner cruises on the lake during the Okanagan Wine Festivals and partners with Naramata Bench wineries in the summer.

HURRICANE RIDGE

509-682-9500, innamoratacruise.com.

V I S TA B A L L O O N A D V E N T U R E S

23324 S.W. Sherk Place, Sherwood, OR 97140, 503-625-7385, vistaballoon.com. OKANAGAN LAKE CRUISE

I N N A M O R ATA One of the best ways to experience Lake Chelan is aboard the Innamorata, a 56-foot yacht once owned by Dean Martin. It’s now owned by Shelly Ward and Danny Lockhart, who operate dinner cruises featuring Chelan wines and private charters.

400 Alexander Road, Sunnyside, WA 98944, 509-837-4321, darigold.com. W I N E VA L L E Y G O L F C L U B

On Highway 12, turn north at Cougar Crest Estate Winery. 176 Wine Valley Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362, 509-525-4653, winevalleygolfclub.com.

If your wine tour takes you to Southern Oregon’s Rogue and Illinois valleys, then plan some time to visit the Oregon Caves National Monument near Cave Junction. It has been a national monument for more than 100 years, and this amazing site is home to one of the few marble caves in the world. 19000 Caves Highway, Cave Junction, OR 97523, 541-592-2100, nps.gov/orca. CHELAN SEAPLANES A 20-minute aerial tour of Lake Chelan’s vineyards ranks among the Northwest’s most breathtaking wine-related activities. Each seat in the DeHavilland Beaver float plane comes with a headset and a remarkable view. Contact your favorite winery in the area and you might be able to arrange for the winemaker to point out each vineyard. 1328 W. Woodin Ave., Chelan, WA 98816, 509-682-5555, chelanseaplanes.com.

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER

Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection. Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA

509-548-1213

509-662-5013

www.viscontis.com

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WINE COUNTRY: DESTINATIONS

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories:

Sweet & Superb Rare and difficult to make, ice wines are special treats in the Pacific Northwest BY ANDY PERDUE

Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON Best Buy! A wine that is $15 or under.

erhaps no wine is more sensual, more remarkable or more difficult to make than ice wine. Imagine dragging yourself out of bed at 2 a.m. in the middle of December when the temperatures are well below freezing. Imagine trudging through snow to harvest grapes that are as hard as marbles. Imagine lugging the heavy bins back to the winery and slowly pressing the grapes as thick nectar drips out. Imagine waiting weeks or months for fermentation to be completed. This is nothing more than a snapshot of what it is like to make ice wine, the stunningly sweet dessert wine found primarily in the world’s northern climes. Fortunately for those of us living in the Pacific Northwest, we have fairly easy access to one of the world’s rarest of wines, thanks to British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, where a fourth of Canada’s ice wines are made. In Washington, a few ice wines are made when conditions provide the opportunity, and some wineries produce faux ice wines by freezing the grapes after harvest. An ice wine is the perfect way to end a great meal with friends or family, either with dessert or on its own. The Wine Press Northwest crew was in for a treat when it judged 49 ice wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. It has been five years since we conducted an ice wine judging, so tasting through so many examples was an enjoyable chore.

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Not surprisingly, about 20 percent of the entries earned our top “Outstanding” rating. A bit surprising, however, was that a B.C. wine was not No. 1; instead, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine finished first in our blind judging. Washington’s oldest winery makes ice wines only when conditions allow, and it has made just five in its 87-year history. Bob Bertheau, Ste. Michelle’s head winemaker, has been involved in three of them. “When you make an ice wine, it’s one of those crystal clear nights,” Bertheau said. “It’s always clear and always cold.” His first ice wine harvest came on Halloween 2003, and his second came on Halloween 2006. He remembers 2006 clearly because the Ste. Michelle crew made five dessert wines in one 48-hour period, all from the estate Horse Heaven Vineyard near Columbia Crest in Paterson. “We saw the cold temperatures coming,” Bertheau said. “We had some beautiful botrytis we wanted to get out first.” Botrytis, known as “noble rot,” is a fungus prized for making certain styles of dessert wine. In this case, it was the rare Eroica Single Berry Select, a $250 Trockenbeerenauslese-style wine. So a crew handpicked the clusters affected by botrytis, then went through again when freezing temperatures hit and harvested the frozen grapes.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. CDN: Canadian dollars.

Ernst Loosen, the famed German winemaker who collaborates with Bertheau on the Eroica wines, was on the phone constantly during the freeze, making sure conditions were perfect. The juice was more than 40 brix at harvest, and the final wine was 26% residual sugar. It was the first ice wine under the Eroica label. In 2008, conditions again presented themselves for an ice wine harvest at Ste. Michelle. Bertheau said these grapes were picked during the second week of December, when temperatures dropped to minus-7 Fahrenheit and warmed up to zero by the time harvest began around mid-morning. That wine has not yet been released. Ice wines are almost always bottled in 375 milliliter bottles, and they are generally low in alcohol. They can range in price from $20 for “cryo” versions to more than $100 in Canada. Our judges for this competition were Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; Dave Seaver, Wine Press Northwest tasting panelist; and Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor. It was conducted May 20 at the Clover Island Inn in

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Kennewick, Wash. Here are the results.

OUTSTANDING Chateau Ste. Michelle $60 2006 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley Eroica is the international collaboration between Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle and Germany’s Dr. Loosen. Since

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Eroica’s inception in 1999, this is the first ice wine under this label. The grapes came from the estate Horse Heaven Vineyard near Columbia Crest when temperatures dropped to 14 degrees on Halloween 2006. It’s a stunningly complex wine with aromas that range from orange zest, clove, lychee and peaches to candied ginger, lemon basil and anise. On the palate, this wine opens with gentle flavors of honey, cloves, grapefruits, citrus and peaches. It’s a layered and delicious wine with notes of lavender on the finish and a

sweet 26% residual sugar. (7% alc., 530 cases) Inniskillin Okanagan $60 CDN 2007 Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley Sandor Mayer has been the winemaker at Inniskillin Okanagan near Oliver, B.C., since 1996 and also oversees the winery and vineyard operations. His skills from vineyard to cellar help his wines to be consistently among the finest in Canada. This luscious dessert wine is loaded with aromas of apricots, spices, honey, grapefruits and even candy

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corn. On the palate are bold, sweet (21.5% residual sugar) flavors with rich notes of honey, apricots and poached pears. Huge viscosity is backed with ample acidity, providing a rich and perfectly balanced wine. (9.5% alc., 1,980 cases) Pentâge Winery $35 CDN 2009 Slow Vineyards Icewine, Okanagan Valley This fascinating wine is crafted by owner Paul Gardner from a blend of Semillon, Muscat, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and

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Viognier. In fact, it is a field blend, meaning the grapes were harvested, crushed, pressed and fermented together rather than in separate lots. The resulting wine provides gorgeous aromas of lemon sorbet, cloves, Lemonhead candy and apricots, followed by huge, delicious flavors of apricots and peaches. It’s a richly structured wine that is loaded with impressive acidity, a viscous mouth feel and a lingering finish. With 19% residual sugar, it’s plenty sweet without being com-

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pletely over the top. (10.5% alc., 65 cases) Ponzi Vineyards $24 2007 Vino Gelato, Willamette Valley The Ponzis have been producing great wines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley for more than four decades, and this delectable dessert wine is a favorite. It’s a blend of Muscat and Riesling, with the latter coming from 40-year-old estate vines. The clusters were frozen at harvest, then the wine was aged six months after a slow fermentation. The resulting wine offers

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gentle aromas of honey, cloves, citrus and pears, followed by rich flavors of Texas pink grapefruit, starfruit and candied citrus. It’s a bold wine with plenty of acidity backing up the 16% residual sugar. (11.8% alc., 345 cases) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $53 CDN 2007 Proprietors’ Reserve Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley Long considered among the finest producers of ice wine anywhere on the planet, Jackson-Triggs continues to uphold its tradition with this superb Riesling sipper. Derek Kontkanen took over crafting J-T’s ice wines when Bruce Nicholson departed for Inniskillin in Ontario at the end of the 2006 vintage. This opens with aromas of oranges, cloves, apples and even a hint of petrol, followed by luscious flavors of oranges, lemons, grapefruits and apple pie. It’s a big wine with loads of sweetness (22% residual sugar) backed with impressive acidity. (9% alc., 800 cases) Nk’Mip Cellars $60 CDN 2009 Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley This Osoyoos, B.C., winery’s claim to fame has been that it is North America’s first aboriginal-owned winery. Yet winemaker Randy Picton’s deft touch with seemingly every wine he crafts is overshadowing Nk’Mip’s backstory. This dessert wine opens with intriguing aromas of golden raisins, apricots, oranges and peaches, followed by rich, luscious flavors of oranges, poached peaches and other fresh-picked orchard fruit. It’s ultra-sweet at 25.8% residual sugar, yet ample acidity ably brightens the wine. (10% alc., 209 cases) Elk Cove Vineyards $36 2008 Ultima, Willamette Valley Secondgeneration winemaker Adam Campbell heads our 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, and this sweet sipper is a blend based on Riesling from the cool Willamette Valley. It is an opulent wine with 19% residual sugar. It opens with aromas of honey, apples and peaches, followed by lush, sweet flavors of poached pears and fruit cocktail. The structure is beautiful and balanced. (9% alc., 496 cases) See Ya Later Ranch $50 CDN 2008 Ehrenfelser Icewine, Okanagan Valley Ehrenfelser is a fascinating variety that was created in 1929 in Germany as a cross between Riesling and Silvaner. In the Northwest, it is most often found in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, where it makes beautiful dry and sweet wines. See Ya Later Ranch — formerly known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards — has made an Ehrefensler ice wine for years, so it’s of little surprise that this scores so well. It’s a “wow” wine with aromas of oranges, quinces and lemon zest, followed by bold, luscious flavors of oranges, poached pears, blood oranges and lavender. It’s plenty sweet at 27.7% residual sugar. (9.5% alc., 500 cases) Scatter Creek Winery $25 NV Frost-Tease, Washington Rather easily, this is the most interesting and unusual wine in our judging. Scatter Creek, a tiny winery north of Centralia, Wash., is owned by winemaker Terril Keary. This wine is a blend of 85% Riesling ice wine, 10% cranberry and 5%

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boysenberry. It shows off an alluring nose of honey, sweet spices, flowers, fruit syrup and raspberries, followed by rich, spicy flavors of honey, pears, sweet apples and tangerines. Compared with many ice wines, it’s fairly modest in the sweetness department with 14% residual sugar. (13.5% alc., 120 cases) Smasne Cellars $28 2008 Upland Vineyard Muscat Ice Wine, Snipes Mountain Robert Smasne is quickly becoming one of Washington’s most prolific winemakers. Based in the Yakima Valley, Smasne crafts wines for 14 different labels, including his eponymous winery. The grapes for this blend of Muscat of Alexandria and Orange Muscat come from Snipes Mountain, one of Washington’s newest and smallest appellations. The resulting wine opens with aromas of yellow pears, honey, lemon zest and a hint of nuttiness, followed by rich flavors of Alberta peaches, roses, vanilla, pears, honey and tangerines. The 21% residual sugar is expertly backed with beautiful acidity. (12% alc., 48 cases)

EXCELLENT Pacific Rim Winemakers $17 2007 Vin de Glacière Selenium Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley By far the largestproduction ice wine of our competition, it’s also one of the finest. This Riesling dessert wine comes from Randall Grahm’s operation in West Richland, Wash., and winemaker Nicolas Quille has crafted a gorgeous sipper. He keeps it amazingly crisp by harvesting the grapes at 22.5 brix, then freezing and pressing the fruit. The finished product is 16% residual sugar. It’s a fascinating wine with aromas of honey, cardamom, pears and apples, followed by flavors of poached pears, sweet lemons and Texas pink grapefruits. (10.5% alc., 16,000 cases) RoxyAnn Winery $35 2008 Night Harvest Viognier, Rogue Valley This Medford, Ore., producer is one of the leading wineries in the emerging Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon, and this sweet Viognier (26.1% residual sugar) further solidifies John Quinones’ reputation as a top-flight winemaker. This opens with succulent aromas of French toast, flan, baked peaches and vanilla bean, followed by bold, rich, spicy and — dare we say — lusty flavor of ultra-ripe peaches and apricots. It’s a luscious wine backed with plenty of acidity. (9.9% alc., 175 cases) Ste. Chapelle $20 2007 Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Snake River Valley The Gem State’s flagship winery has been crafting ice wines for more than a decade, and veteran winemaker Chuck Devlin has it down to a science. In fact, he has a natural advantage over most because the Snake River Valley’s leading grape is Riesling, and its high altitude provides greater natural acidity. This opens with aromas of honey, spices and orange zest, followed by lush flavors of poached apples, juicy oranges and cardamom. Its 18% residual sugar is backed with

plenty of pep. (10% alc., 1,675 cases) Willamette Valley Vineyards $20 2007 Sweet Müller-Thurgau, Oregon This cross between Riesling and Silvaner was Germany’s most-planted variety as recently as two decades ago and still remains No. 2 to Riesling. It is planted in cooler areas of Washington, Oregon and British Columbia. This dessert wine was made in a cryo style, meaning the grapes were frozen after harvest, a method typical in Oregon’s temperate climate. It shows off a gorgeous nose of honeysuckle, ripe Golden Delicious apples and lemon zest, followed by plush flavors of apples, peaches and sweet limes with plenty of crispness on the finish. This clocks in at 13.7% residual sugar. (13% alc., 77 cases) L’Ecole No. 41 $24 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Semillon Ice Wine, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Marty Clubb loves the Semillon grape like nobody else in the Pacific Northwest. The owner of our 2003 Northwest Winery of the Year crafts no fewer than four styles of the classic Bordeaux variety. This comes from his estate vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, and it opens with aromas of orange zest, honey, peaches and apricots. The sweet (19% residual sugar) flavors are smooth, rich and well balanced and reminded us of fresh, creamy caramel. (13% alc., 106 cases) Rio Vista Wines $40 2008 Gewürztraminer Ice Wine, Columbia Valley John Little is the owner and winemaker of this fascinating operation on the Columbia River north of Chelan, Wash. His is the only tasting room in the Northwest that caters to boaters. He trudged through kneedeep snow to hand-pick these grapes, and the results were worth the effort. It opens with aromas of cloves, lychee, bananas, sandalwood and rosewater, followed by lovely flavors of peaches and tangelos. At 19% residual sugar, this offers luscious depth and breadth. (11% alc., 20 cases) Jones of Washington $25 2009 Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley The Jones family has been involved in Columbia Basin agriculture for more than a half-century, and Jack Jones began planting wine grapes 13 years ago. He and son Greg now run their eponymous winery with a tasting room in the Basin town of Quincy, Wash. This is their first ice wine, and it is beautiful, opening with classic aromas of pears, peaches and apricots. On the palate, the flavors include notes of fruit cocktail, white peaches and Braeburn apples. Good acidity backs up the 21% residual sugar. (11.5% alc., 50 cases) Kiona Vineyards Winery $25 2008 Ice Wine, Red Mountain The Williams family pioneered Red Mountain viticulture in the 1970s, carving vineyards out of sagebrush. For many years, they have crafted an ice wine that is primarily made from Chenin Blanc, using a block that consistently freezes late each autumn. This version is 100% Chenin and opens with aromas of pineapples, lemons and honey, followed by delicious flavors of

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ICE WINE FACTS BY THE NUMBERS

We judged 49 ice wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Here are a few of the stats: iϧ The judging represented 45,292 total cases of wine. One wine represented 16,000 cases. iϧ The average residual sugar was 19.7%. The highest was 33%. The lowest was 8%. iϧ The average alcohol was 10.9%. iϧ The average price was $37. The most expensive was $100. The least expensive was $15. iϧ Seventeen different appellations were represented in the judging, including: Chehalem Mountains, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Idaho, Okanagan Valley, Oregon, Rattlesnake Hills, Red Mountain, Rogue Valley, Snake River Valley, Snipes Mountain, Umpqua Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, Willamette Valley, Yakima Valley and Yamhill-Carlton District. ICEWINE VS. ICE WINE

On most ice wines from British Columbia, you might notice the spelling as “icewine.” This is a trademarked term that means the wine was made under specific conditions. In the United States, ice wines are termed “ice wine” or given a fanciful name, regardless of whether the wine was made traditionally or not. Under Canadian rules, an icewine can be made when the grapes are frozen on the vine with temperatures reaching at least minus-8 Celsius (about 17 degrees Fahrenheit). They must use grapes from within approved viticultural areas, and the grapes must be at least 32 brix when they are harvested. When bottled, the finished wine must have at least 10% residual sugar. One rule that might be thought of as quirky is that the grapes must be driven from the vineyard to the winery in the shortest route possible. This is because at least one enterprising winemaker picked his grapes and drove them to the top of a mountain pass to make sure they were plenty frozen. In the United States, no such rules exist, though many peaches, pineapples and apricots. It’s plenty sweet at 26.8% residual sugar and is backed with ample acidity. (9.6% alc., 1,500 cases) Henry Estate $35 2002 White Riesling Ice Wine, Umpqua Valley Easily the oldest wine in our judging, this rare natural ice wine from Southern Oregon is a beautiful sipper. It opens with aromas of honey, toasted hazelnuts, pears, apricots and fresh linen. On the palate are plush flavors of apricots, oranges, peaches and sweet spices. It weighs in at 21% residual sugar and is backed with impressive

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wineries adhere to the Canadian rules because they realize they will help make the finest examples. That said, many ice wines are made in the “cryo-extraction” method, meaning the grapes are picked, then frozen post harvest. Some wineries will even choose to freeze the juice after the grapes are pressed to bring out the nectarlike qualities. You will notice that many of the “cryo” ice wines reviewed here have names such as “Vin Glacé,” “Vin de Glacière” and “Frost-Tease” to differentiate them from natural ice wines. PA I R I N G I C E W I N E S W I T H F O O D

There is perhaps no more difficult food pairing than with ice wine. The first rule of thumb is to avoid sweet desserts, which will detract from the sweetness of the wine. In fact, most ice wine producers will tell you that the wine is better as dessert rather than with dessert. This is what Bob Bertheau, winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle suggests. He adds that if you are planning a dessert, serve it after the ice wine with coffee. Ice wines should be served chilled, though not necessarily ice cold. Bertheau prefers ice wines to be served at about 50 degrees. If they are too cold, the delicate aromas tend to be muted and the wine just isn’t quite as enjoyable. Chill ice wine in the refrigerator but take it out about 30 minutes before serving to allow it to warm slightly. If you are set on pairing ice wine with food, here are some suggestions: iϧ Cheeses, especially blues, are wonderful with sweeter wines. iϧ Foie gras. This is a classic pairing with Sauternes and works well with ice wine. iϧ Crème brulée. This works especially well with ice wines made from Riesling and Ehrenfelser. iϧ Fresh fruit. Everything from melons to berries to tropical fruits can pair nicely with ice wines. iϧ Nuts. Toasted walnuts, pine nuts and almonds can work, especially if paired with fresh grapes or other fruits.

acidity. (9% alc., 225 cases)

alc., 28 cases)

Pentâge Winery $35 CDN 2008 Slow Vineyards Icewine, Okanagan Valley Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie turn to Slow Vineyards on the Naramata Bench each year for this ice wine made from five grapes: Semillon, Muscat, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. It opens with aromas laces with grapefruits and tangerines, followed by a rush of sweetness (19% residual sugar) backed with fascinating orange, peach, tangerine and clove flavors. It’s loaded with plenty of acidity to back all the flavor. (10.5%

Dunham Cellars $19 2008 Lewis Vineyard Late Harvest Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Eric Dunham loves this vineyard near Rattlesnake Ridge in Washington’s Columbia Valley. He leans on the site for Cab, Syrah and this luscious dessert wine. It is made in the cryo style, with the grapes frozen post-harvest. The aromas open with notes of flowers, oranges, peaches and a hint of petrol, followed by sweet (23.1% residual sugar) flavors of peaches, apricots and oranges. The structure is as compelling as the flavors, thanks to refined acidity backing all the fruit

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Bob Bertheau, left, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s head winemaker, collaborates with Ernst Loosen, right, the famed German winemaker, on the Eroica wines. and sugar. (9.5% alc., 750 cases) Covey Run Winery $20 2006 Reserve Semillon Ice Wine, Yakima Valley Kate Michaud oversees winemaking for one of the Northwest’s largest producers, a winery known as much for its quality as its value. This wine shows off intriguing aromas that include crème brulée, Thai basil, hazelnuts, oranges and limes, followed by flavors of oranges, peaches, fresh figs and minerality. Its sweetness (16.5% residual sugar) is backed with right-on acidity, giving this plenty of balance. (11% alc., 7033 cases) Inniskillin Okanagan $70 CDN 2008 Dark Horse Estate Vineyard Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Sandor Mayer loves this 23-acre vineyard near Osoyoos, B.C., and relies on it for several wines. This vineyard-designated ice wine unveils attractive aromas of honeysuckle, lemons, apricots and pears, followed by lush flavors of peaches, honey, apricots and citrus. Piercing acidity backs up the 22.2% residual sugar. (9.5% alc., 200 cases) Willamette Valley Vineyards $25 2008 Sweet Hannah, Oregon Crafted by one of Oregon’s largest wineries, this seduc-

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tive dessert wine is made in the “cryo” style, meaning the grapes were frozen post-harvest. This opens with luscious aromas of ripe pears and Key lime pie, followed by charming flavors of fruit cocktail, delicate lemon-lime notes and light syrup. It’s not overly sweet at 12% residual sugar and has plenty of bright acidity. (13% alc., 57 cases) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $30 2008 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Syrah Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills Red ice wines are rare, though not unheard of. This is one of the few we’ve tasted from Washington, however. Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle harvested the grapes at 38 brix, then fermented the juice to 14.7% residual sugar. The resulting wine shows off aromas of cherries and cranberries, followed by luscious flavors of plums, cloves, cinnamon, strawberry fruit leather and a touch of chocolate on the finish. (13.9% alc., 136 cases) Heaven’s Cave Cellars $39 2006 Make The Dash Count Icicles Riesling Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills Founder Hope Moore is building a gorgeous wine facility in the Horse Heaven Hills, scheduled to be completed this fall. It is

only fitting it should have a wine this lovely in it. This natural ice wine opens with aromas of pears, peaches, honey and spice, followed by succulent flavors of pears and honeysuckle. It’s bold with rich sweetness (15.4% residual sugar). (12.03% alc., 175 cases) Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery $40 CDN 2007 The Lost Bars Vidal Icewine, Okanagan Valley Wade Stark oversees winemaking for this operation owned by Mission Hill Family Estate. He moved to the Okanagan from Ontario in the late ‘90s and has been at the helm of Prospect since 2006. This luscious ice wine opens with aromas of poached pears, vanilla bean and rhubarb, followed by rich flavors of honey and citrus. It’s plenty sweet at 19% residual sugar and is backed with solid acidity. (9.5% alc., 1,200 cases) Apolloni Vineyards $22 2009 Dolce Vino Viognier, Oregon Owner and winemaker Alfredo Apolloni is a firstgeneration American whose roots reach back to Italy, where his family has made wine for more than 150 years. This winery in the northern Willamette Valley focuses on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and a

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ice wine Super Tuscan style blend. This superb dessert wine is made from Viognier and shows off aromas of mangoes, kiwis, peaches and even fresh-shucked corn niblets. On the palate, this reveals considerable brightness, thanks to moderate sweetness (13.7% residual sugar) and notes of orange zest. It’s a deliciously pleasing wine. (13% alc., 248 cases) Mission Hill Family Estate $50 CDN 2006 Reserve Vidal Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Vidal is a hybrid grape variety that was developed in the 1930s in France. Its thick skin and winter hardiness make it a superior grape for producing ice wines, especially in the Ontario region. A bit is crafted in the Okanagan Valley, as well, and this is a delicious example. It opens with aromas of orange sherbet and a distinctive and alluring earthy note. On the palate are flavors of orange zest, wintergreen, tangerines and lemons. It’s a sweet wine (22% residual sugar) with complex layers. (9% alc., 700 cases)

RECOMMENDED Mission Hill Family Estate $80 CDN 2005 SLC Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley This wine from one of British Columbia’s most notable producers is part of the Select Lot Collection. The grapes for this ice wine come from the southern Okanagan Valley, and they were harvested in December 2005. This opens with aromas of apricots, apples and hot cross buns, followed by bold, fresh, round flavors of honey and butterscotch. It’s plenty sweet at 25.2% residual sugar. (9% alc., 1,250 cases) Best Buy!

King Estate $15 2007 Signature Collection Vin Glacé Pinot Gris, Oregon Oregon’s flagship winery has produced this dessert wine for many vintages. The grapes are frozen post-harvest, resulting in a wine that is plenty sweet (17.5% residual sugar) with ample acidity. It opens with aromas of apples and cloves, followed by rich, focused flavors of fresh pears dripping with light honey. (8.5% alc., 3781 cases) Inniskillin Okanagan $100 CDN 2008 Discovery Series Tempranillo Icewine, Okanagan Valley A red ice wine is rare enough, and one made from the Tempranillo grape is incredibly unusual. This comes from one of B.C.’s top ice wine producers, and winemaker Sandor Mayer displays his penchant for experimentation. It reveals aromas and flavors of honey, cherries and spices with a plush mouth feel, thanks to the 21.8% residual sugar. (9.5% alc., 240 cases) Covey Run Winery $20 2006 Barrel Aged Semillon Ice Wine, Yakima Valley Winemaker Kate Michaud has crafted a fascinating and most unusual wine, as most ice wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel while this was aged in oak. It offers gentle aromas of honeysuckle and sweet spices, followed by sweet (16.5% residual sugar) flavors of honey, pears and

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even cherries. (11% alc., 100 cases) Upland Estates $24 2008 Ampeli Muscat Ice Wine, Snipes Mountain Todd Newhouse is the third generation in his family to tend to these vines, which were planted in 1917 in the Yakima Valley. Robert Smasne makes the wines in nearby Grandview, Wash. This opens with aromas of peaches and apricots, followed by lush, round flavors of ripe pears and apples. It’s plenty sweet at 24.7% residual sugar. (10.7% alc., 90 cases) Pontin Del Roza $35 2008 Ice Wine, Yakima Valley Owner/winemaker Scott Pontin oversees this family operation just north of Prosser, Wash., where he is best known for crafting superb white wines. This natural ice wine is made from estate Pinot Gris and shows off aromas of limes and oranges, followed by rich, viscous flavors of honey and limes. Its 19% residual sugar is nicely balanced with plenty of acidity. (11.5% alc., 30 cases) Masset Winery $45 2008 Semillon Ice Wine, Columbia Valley Winemaker Greg Masset harvested these grapes when it was just 2 degrees out, and the yield was a minuscule 30 gallons of juice per ton. It reveals aromas of honey, spices and apricots, followed by fresh, sweet (22% residual sugar) flavors of ripe pears and apples. It’s nicely balanced with bright acidity. (12% alc., 130 cases) Inniskillin Okanagan $53 CDN 2008 Vidal Icewine, Okanagan Valley This wine from the rare Vidal grape — in B.C. anyway — reveals aromas of zesty lemon and honey, followed by bold, rich flavors of lemons and oranges. Its ample sweetness (22.3% residual sugar) is backed with solid acidity. (9.5% alc., 1700 cases) Abacela Vineyards & Winery $30 2009 Blanco Dulce, Umpqua Valley Winemaker Andrew Wenzl used estate Viognier to craft this delicious dessert wine, one of the youngest in the competition. It opens with aromas of poached pears and vanilla, followed by rich flavors of apples, pears and honey. The 15% residual sugar is backed with good acidity. (16.9% alc., 91 cases) Ste. Chapelle $20 2006 Winemaker’s Series Cabernet Franc Ice Wine, Idaho Veteran winemaker Chuck Devlin crafted a rare red ice wine from naturally frozen grapes in the Snake River Valley of southern Idaho. This reveals aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries and honey. It has a bold entry and a rich midpalate, thanks to the 17% residual sugar. There’s even a touch of tannin on the finish of this luscious wine. (9% alc., 273 cases) Horizon’s Edge Winery $19 2008 Brittney’s Butterfly Chardonnay Ice Wine, Rattlesnake Hills David Padgett purchased this longtime Yakima Valley winery in 2000 and has specialized in various dessert wines since. This ice wine made from Chardonnay is a favorite among fans, and we can see why. It is not overly sweet at 12.8% residual sugar, and the alluring spiciness on

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the nose leads to luscious flavors of ripe apples and pears on the palate. (12.6% alc., 210 cases) Tertulia Cellars $38 2008 Late Harvest Semillon Ice Wine, Columbia Valley This Walla Walla, Wash., winery has crafted a superb dessert wine from the somewhat rare and often misunderstood Semillon grape. It opens with aromas of apricots, cloves and honey, followed by bold flavors of sweet lemons and oranges. It is plenty sweet at 23% residual sugar (12.9% alc., 43 cases) Pheasant Court Winery $22 2005 Vice, Willamette Valley This winery near Corvalis, Ore., crafted this Viognier dessert wine from grapes frozen after harvest. It opens with aromas of apricots and honey, leading to flavors of apricots and peaches. It’s fairly light in sweetness at 8% residual sugar and is backed with impressive acidity. (15% alc., 73 cases) Long Shadows Vintners $84 2008 Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley Winemaker Gilles Nicault crafted this wine from grapes harvested when it was just 3 degrees out, then the wine was fermented in neutral barrels. It opens with aromas of honey and hints of classic petrol, followed by rich, honeyed flavors of oranges and limes. It was the sweetest wine in our judging at 33% residual sugar. (8.4% alc., 98 cases) Cave B Estate Winery $35 2008 Semillon Ice Wine, Columbia Valley Winemaker Freddy Arredondo crafted this dessert wine from grapes frozen on the vine. It opens with luscious aromas of honey, cloves and poached pears, followed by round, sweet flavors of honey and ripe orchard fruit. It’s modest in its residual sugar at 12.5% and is smooth and easy-drinking through the impressive finish. (15.5% alc., 280 cases) Anam Cara Cellars $22 2008 Nicholas Estate Gewürztraminer, Chehalem Mountains This winery in the northern Willamette Valley uses estate grapes for its dessert wine. The grapes were frozen after harvest, resulting in a wine that shows off aromas of cloves, honey and citrus, followed by bright flavors of fresh pears and poached apples. It’s plenty sweet at 20% residual sugar and backed with solid acidity. (9% alc., 365 cases) Sumac Ridge Estate Winery $60 CDN 2006 Pinot Blanc Icewine, Okanagan Valley For decades, Sumac Ridge has been one of B.C.’s hallmark wineries and is one of the few to make ice wine from Pinot Blanc. This is a fascinating wine with aromas of vanilla and cream soda, followed by plush flavors of pears, lemons and orange zest. The 26.4% residual sugar is backed with bright acidity. (10% alc., 500 cases) ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA

360-378-WINE Summer Hours: Open Daily 11 am - 5 pm Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com

121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.

360-748-0432 • www.widgeonhill.com

O•S Winery

Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines Located in South Seattle Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.oswinery.com

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Newly Hatched Walla Walla wine incubators B Y P R AT I K J O S H I

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

Five Easter-egg-colored barns serve as a starting point for fledgling wineries in the Port of Walla Walla.

ive years ago, Joel Waite became so enamored of Walla Walla, Wash., he moved across the country to become a winemaker. He enrolled in Walla Walla Community College’s enology program, worked as an assistant winemaker at Maryhill Winery for about a year, then began hunting for a location to launch his own winery. In September 2008, Waite opened CAVU Cellars at one of the Port of Walla Walla’s new incubator buildings. A month later, Chris Kontos and his winemaking brother

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Cameron also moved in with Kontos Cellars. The port’s five buildings — all 1,600 square feet and designed for start-up wineries — have created a near-instant community of aspiring winemakers. “It makes the whole area a destination,” Waite said. The proximity of five fledgling wineries to one another makes them a great spot for wine lovers seeking boutique wines, said Andrew Lodmell, winemaker and co-owner of Lodmell Cellars, one of the three early tenants.

As winemakers, they compete for business, but being near each other allows them to complement each other, too. “It’s our little community of winemakers that people are beginning to discover,” Lodmell said. “It’s such a supportive environment to grow in,” said Kontos, who also is a wheat farmer north of Walla Walla. The hassle of dealing with liquor laws was puzzling, he said. “But thanks to our (winemaker) neighbors, we were able to weave our way through the maze a lot quicker.”

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Denise Slattery, co-owner of Trio Vintners with husband Steve Michener, said, “We are in different stages of our business. We are competitors, but we also work well together. It’s a unique setting.” Even as the five wineries band together to promote the region at the Walla Walla Regional Airport, they also are working on their exit strategies. Trio plans to “graduate” from the incubator in the next few months and open a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla. Slattery and her husband recently bought out the third partner, Tim Boushey, who

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wanted to pursue wine distribution opportunities in Western Washington. The purpose of an incubator facility is to help new wineries get started, said Jim Kuntz, the port’s executive director. The port is making the incubators available for up to six years at moderate rent, which starts at $1,200 a month and gradually increases to $2,200 in the sixth year, Kuntz said. Once the winemakers establish themselves, they are expected to go out on their own. Incubator winery owners have a recipe for growth, but no one’s talk-

ing about making big money soon. “We don’t want to overextend,” Slattery said, adding Trio is happy making 1,000 cases a year. It’s one of the few Zinfandel producers in the state, Slattery said, and it also makes Sangiovese, Syrah, Carménère, Mourvèdre and Grenache. Its wines are priced from $15 to $26. Since getting started at the incubator in 2006, Trio has been growing slowly, relying on selling half of its products through the tasting room. Despite the economic slowdown, Trio’s sales remain steady. Trio aggressively uses blogs and social

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incubators Denise Slattery, winemaker/owner of Trio Vintners laughs with a visitor.

Kontos Cellars

James Waite, owner and manager of CAVU Cellars.

networking sites to reach young wine drinkers. Kontos Cellars is primarily being discovered via word of mouth and publicity through the port. While Chris manages the winery, Cameron (assistant winemaker at Forgeron Cellars) makes the wine. “We always had an appreciation for wine,” said Chris, whose father, Cliff, is co-owner of Fort Walla Walla Cellars. “We like Bordeaux-style wines and like to showcase single varietal wines.” Kontos has released nine wines, mostly in the $22 to $36 range. The winery recently released its 2009 Gossamer White and 2007 Petit Verdot. Sales help cover costs, he said. But not making a profit immediately isn’t bothering the Kontos brothers. “No one planned on making money for a few years,” Chris said, adding he plans to stay at the incu58

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A buddha watches over the barrels at Adamant Cellars.

bator for about four years. “(The incubator) allows us to invest time and energy growing our business rather than servicing debt.” Incubator winemakers are planning to have music concerts in the summer to draw wine lovers, he said. Most visitors to incubator wineries at the Port of Walla Walla tend to be “more adventurous wine tasters,” Slattery said. “They’re interested in finding the next rising star (among winemakers).” Trio recently released its 2009 Tres Rose, a blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre, and its 2007 Sangiovese from Morrison Lane Vineyard in Walla Walla and Boushey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The 2007 Sangiovese Riserva — made with Boushey grapes — was released exclusively to wine club members. Trio will release its 2007 Mourvèdre, of which 150 cases were produced, in the fall.

Waite of CAVU opened his winery to the public in April 2009, releasing several wines including Barbera and a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot — all within the $22-$30 range. “Sales during the spring release weekend doubled over last year,” Waite said. Waite, a private chef in Washington, D.C., came to Walla Walla to attend a family wedding and decided to make Walla Walla his home while embarking on a new career as a winemaker. His parents invested $400,000 of their money in his business venture and became partners with him, Waite said. He named his winery CAVU to honor his father, James, a former pilot. CAVU stands for Ceiling And Visibility Unlimited, an aviation term meaning, “It’s a great day to go flying.” He’s begun using social media to

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VISITING T H E I N C U B AT O R S

Rosé is poured at Lodmell Cellars

connect with customers and build his brand. “It seems Twitter and Facebook are paying off,” Waite said. Often new winemakers focus on obscure varieties such as Petit Verdot and Barbera instead of Merlot or Cabernet to stand out from others, said Coke Roth, a former wine distributor and longtime international wine judge in Richland, Wash. It’s an element of novelty, he said. “But establishing a reputation is a lot harder than making wine.” What keeps attracting people to the wine business is the romance associated with it, he said. For many, it’s like indulging in a process that’s both “science and art” at the same time, he said. Many winemakers may have to work a long time before quitting their jobs, Roth said. Trio’s Steve Michener is a nurse at St. Mary Hospital in Walla Walla,

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ıϧA D A M A N T C E L L A R S 600 Piper Ave., Walla Walla, 509- 529-4161; adamantcellars.com Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday and by appointment. ıϧL O D M E L L C E L L A R S 598 Piper Ave., Walla Walla, 509-525-1285; lodmellcellars.com Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and by appointment. ıϧT R I O V I N T N E R S 596 Piper Ave., Walla Walla, 509-529-8746; triovintners.com Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. weekends and by appointment. ıϧC AV U C E L L A R S 602 Piper Ave., Walla Walla, 509-540-6352; cavucellars.com Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. ıϧK O N T O S C E L L A R S 594 Piper Ave., Walla Walla, 509-386-4471; kontoscellars.com Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekends and by appointment. while Denise teaches wine marketing at Walla Walla Community College. This is working out to be perfect, said Slattery, who’s excited about Trio’s move out of the incubator. “Now, we’ll be able to focus on our relationships with growers and vineyards, on winemaking and also distribution.” And she hopes that’ll help Trio garner more attention from wine aficionados. Andrew Lodmell of Lodmell Cellars evolved from being a grape grower to a winemaker in barely six years, after first planting grapes in 1995. After 2001, he was concerned that grape buyers might cancel their orders, so he began dabbling in winemaking to let people know

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about the quality of the grapes he was offering. As a winemaker he wants to express the fruit that comes out of the vineyard, he said. Winemaking is a natural extension of his understanding of the soil and grapes. Lodmell said he’s still building his wine market. He said he’s bought pumps and tanks and is now investing in French oak barrels. “If you’ve got a good product, it’ll eventually reach people. You’ve got to be patient.” Devin Stinger, who gave up his job as an aerospace engineer to be a winemaker, started Adamant Cellars with his wife, Debra, in October 2006. “Business has been pretty decent,” said Stinger, who’s trying to reach out to a wider audience beyond the tasting room. Marketing has been the greatest challenge, he said. And if he were starting his business today, he would keep a lot of spare cash handy, he said. Getting into the mass market isn’t easy, because most people don’t buy wines that cost more than $30, Stinger said. They need to like your wine and be comfortable with the price point, said Stinger, who also works as full-time business analyst for a Walla Walla company. “We want to get out of the incubator in two years. That’s the goal. We want to do it smartly,” Stinger said, adding he’s happy with the progress he’s making. He makes about 1,000 cases a year. Each winery wants to provide its tasting room visitors a unique experience to lure them back. It’s important to get the people engaged, Slattery said. “More they try, more they’ll buy.” ı PRATIK JOSHI covers business and the wine indus-

tr y for the Tri-City Herald in Kennewick, Wash. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

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33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com â&#x20AC;˘ 509-522-9463

We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

Amavi Cellars

3796 Peppers Bridge Rd., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com Now also open in Woodinville, behind the Hollywood Schoolhouse!

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

225 Vineyard Lane - off Mill Creek Road Open Friday afternoons and Saturdays Or by appointment.

509-525-4724 For more info please visit: www.wallawallavintners.com

840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both. Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

509-527-8400 www.fivestarcellars.com

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm • www.pepperbridge.com Now also open in Woodinville, behind the Hollywood Schoolhouse!

Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Red & White Blends Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

Marshal’s Winery World-class wines, great selection with small production quality * Syrah * Cab Franc Rosé * Zinfandel * Lemberger * Tempranillo Tasting Room Open daily: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 150 Oak Creek Rd, Dallesport, WA 1/4 mile E of Hwy 197 & Hwy 14 interchange

509-767-4633 Fax: 509-767-2194

For Sale - contact via email - marshalswinery@gorge.net www.marshalswinerywa.com

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COLUMBIA GORGE

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WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO

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M AT C H M A K E R S Spicy Cioppino Style Pasta paired with the Fujishin Family Cellars 2008 Viognier.

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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE

Lasting friendships The Orchard House Restaurant bears fruit for Snake River wineries, tourists BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

— here’s no pretense, and it’s not fancy. Yet in many ways, Sherri McCoy and Kris Thompson created a wine country restaurant unlike any other in the Northwest. And they’ll readily offer with endearing naïveté that it wasn’t by design when they opened in 2008. “It’s a little bit embarrassing,” Thompson said with a smirk, “but it has turned out to be such a wonderful surprise and a huge deal for us.” It starts with their location in the heart of the Snake River Valley, a 45-minute drive due west of Boise. Diners look to the east across Sunnyslope Road and see Idaho’s largest winery — Ste. Chapelle. Step out the backdoor of the kitchen and there’s Bitner Vineyards up the hill on Plum Road as well as blocks belonging to Williamson Vineyards. On the other side of Apricot Lane and beyond the orchards just off Grape Lane is the home of Koenig Vineyards & Distillery. “Winemakers are here for breakfast and lunch, and sometimes they’ll bring in their families for dinner,” McCoy said. “We see them a lot.” Support is a two-way street, judging by The Orchard House’s wine list. “It’s a 100 percent Snake River AVA, and it’s mostly the CALDWELL, IDAHO

wineries right around here,” Thompson points out. More than 20 wineries are represented, which accounts for more than half of Idaho’s vintners. Only two bottles on the list are sold for north of $30. “We try to keep our prices by the bottle low so that if the winery isn’t open, we have enough of a selection that wine tourists can still get some of that winery’s wine,” Thompson said. If you ask for directions, wait staff will supply a wine touring map and pass along some information about the wineries. “It’s nice when one of our guests has a question about wine and we know the winemaker,” McCoy said. “We can tell them where the winery is at and something about the wine. We couldn’t do that if we were selling wine from Europe. I like that part of it.” Thompson added, “But it’s the same thing for the orchards. If we need apples, we talk to one of the guys who come in for coffee in the morning and we buy a box of apples from him. When the pears are coming off, we’re making pear pie or poached pears.” Once upon a time, their building was home to Weston Winery. It’s also been a boat repair shop and served as migrant

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Fujishin Family Cellars $15 2008 Viognier, Snake River Valley —150 cases produced, 14.2% alcohol artin Fujishin graduated from the College of Idaho with a business degree, then returned to the family’s 400acre farm near the Oregon/Idaho border. But winemaking was boiling in his blood, perhaps the legacy of a greatgrandfather who created saké inside a backyard shed in Japan. These days, as the assistant winemaker for Greg Koenig, Fujishin plays a key role in the building of wines for several wineries in Idaho — including Koenig Vineyards, Bitner Vineyards, Williamson Vineyards and the emerging 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards. Last year, Fujishin began to flash his skills with the first releases under his own label, which he debuted at the Savor Idaho festival. Each of those offerings — Merlot, Viognier and a dessert Chardonnay — received Excellent ratings from Wine Press Northwest. That 2008 Viognier, off Bitner Vineyard, shows its versatility by complementing The Orchard House’s Spicy Cioppino Style Pasta. Fujishin allowed his Viognier to go nearly bone-dry (0.2% residual sugar), while the stainless-steel fermentation and aging — with just two weeks on the lees — offers huge amounts of tropical fruit and develops the mouth feel. “It’s meant to emulate the traditional style of the Rhône Valley Viognier,” Fujishin said. “By picking at a later maturity, it provides slightly higher alcohol to carry the floral character of Viognier on the nose.” And Fujishin kept close tabs on these grapes because Koenig’s winemaking facility is only a few hundred yards down the slope. “Bitner Vineyards holds acidity late in the season and provides strong stone fruit character as the wine matures, combining with tropical notes early on,” Fujishin said. Weather and harvest conditions of 2008 also worked in his favor. “It was a slightly warmer year, and the vintage of Viognier came off before the fall rains that diluted some of the later-picked varietals,” he said. “That timing provided for accentuation of the delicate character of the Viognier into a slightly more robust wine with a bit of Chardonnay character.” Fujishin’s wines are on the list at The Orchard House. He also sells them on weekends at Coyotes Fine Wines on the Creek tasting room in downtown Caldwell.

Fujishin Family Cellars, 217 S. Kimball Ave., Caldwell, ID, 83605, fujishinfamilycellars.com.

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M AT C H M A K E R S Facebook friends who are drawn by the food and familial approach. The women post several times a week and back that up on Twitter, offering a sense of transparency with a homespun appeal that makes their “friends” feel a part of their famChristopher Dawson trained at Le Cordon ily. Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Portland. On May 17, for example, “Taking housing before the transformation applications today… one person put into a 65-seat restaurant more than a reason for leaving ‘got fried.’ LOL! decade ago. Assuming it’s a type-o :)” Outside, there’s also seating for 65 Indeed, the two women go on the deck under shade trees and beyond ownership. They describe along the tiny creek. themselves as the “bookkeepers, Inside, there’s still the feel of a marketers, landscapers, remodelers, country diner and you won’t find dishwashers, repair/maintenance workers, servers, bakers, cooks, white linen. That combination — managers, janitor and team leaders.” and an anonymous tip — led Guy Yet after two years, which includFieri of The Food Network to the ed many 80-hour work weeks, there Orchard House for his Diners, seems to be little tension at The Drive-ins and Dives program. Orchard House. McCoy and “We’ve been filmed, and I think Thompson first used their friendship we’re on a schedule to be featured, as a base to build a partnership in a but we’re kind of nervous about it,” drive-through coffee shop. McCoy said. “We grew up in the area and met Fieri’s tipster likely is among the in high school 25 years ago in a Orchard House’s nearly 800

Surrounded by farmland, The Orchard House has no problem sourcing local produce for its dishes.

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restaurant, oddly enough,” Thompson said. “Two years ago, we were looking for something different. I drove by and saw this restaurant was for sale. It wasn’t necessarily what we were planning to do, but we saw the opportunity.” A satisfying breakfast menu created an almost instant following. Much of that credit is heaped on McCoy’s son-in-law, Rubio Izaguirre Jr., who continues to whip up the omelets, RECIPE Spicy Cioppino Style Pasta Serves 4-6

2 1 3 1 1 1⁄2 1 1⁄2 1 2 ⁄4 2 1 ⁄2 15 2 1 ⁄2 1

tablespoons extra virgin olive oil medium shallot, minced Thai red peppers, sliced Spanish chorizo, diced cups clam juice cups vermouth 14-ounce can tomato paste 14 1⁄2-ounce cans, diced, or fresh tomatoes, diced cup fresh basil, chopped tablespoons dried oregano cup sugar peeled, deveined shrimp cups large dice halibut cup clams out of shell or in shell (choice of presentation) 16-oz. box dried penne pasta Sour cream Parmesan cheese

In a large sauté pan, combine olive oil, shallots, peppers and chorizo at medium-heat heat. Cook until shallots begin to sweat and peppers are aromatic. Add clam juice and vermouth, and cook until reduced by half. Add tomato paste. When paste is blended in, add tomatoes, basil, oregano, sugar, shrimp, halibut and simmer over low-medium heat for 30 minutes. In the final 10 minutes, add the clams to prevent them from overcooking. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve over penne pasta cooked al dente. Garnish with a dollop of sour cream, Parmesan cheese and basil leaf.

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M AT C H M A K E R S beignets, Swedish pancakes and migas — a Tex-Mex approach to scrambled eggs. It might be impossible to find a bigger cup of coffee elsewhere in Northwest wine country, and the Orchard House’s midday rush requires a two-angle attack because of a growing appetite for lunch orders to go. “We’re building 100 boxes at a time for winery tour buses,” McCoy said. “Catering is something that we hadn’t really given much thought to until now. ” While offering a comfort food element, the dinner menu now features the growing influence of new chef Christopher Dawson, who has two winemaker dinners scheduled this year. “Last year, we would hire a guest chef to cook the wine dinners and work with our staff, but we had such a high demand to extend our hours, we now are open seven days a week and at night for dinner,” Thompson said. Dawson, 30, recently arrived after attending Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Portland. His inspiration, however, began in St. George, Utah, at his grandmother’s side. “I remember sitting on the floor with a bowl when she was making pudding or

Locals and wine tourists alike flock to The Orchard House for breakfast.

The Orchard House Restaurant carries wine from 20 Snake River Valley wineries.

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cookies,” Dawson said. “As soon as I was tall enough to reach the stove, I started making eggs.” For years, he and his family would turn to grandmother for recipes. Now, he’s the one gladly handing down ideas, and the blues guitarist appreciates sharing the kitchen with McCoy and Thompson. “It’s really nice to work for women; there’s no one yelling and screaming,” Dawson said with a chuckle. “It’s pretty calm here.” McCoy and Thompson make sure Dawson and Izaguirre work with local ingredients as often as possible. Dawson brings some of his own herbs to the restaurant, but his bosses maintain both an herb and vegetable garden on the grounds. Gaston’s Bakery supplies their buns. Whatever else the Orchard House staff doesn’t bake comes from Harvest Classic Bakery. Tri-City Meats down the road in Meridian provides protein for many of the valley’s top chefs. Orchard crops come from Robison Fruit Ranch, Symms Fruit Ranch and Williamson’s Fruit Ranch. Watson’s Sunnyslope Farms and Webster Ranch Natural Farm

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Pomegranate Honey-Glazed Salmon Serves 4

4 ⁄2 1 ⁄2 1 2 2 1

cups pomegranate juice cup sugar cup all-natural honey tablespoon minced garlic tablespoons cayenne pepper eight-ounce sockeye salmon fillets

In a two-quart saucepan, add pomegranate juice and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer for 50 minutes. After reduced, let cool for 20 minutes. In a separate bowl, add honey, garlic, cayenne pepper and 1⁄2 cup of your cooled pomegranate glaze. Mix together and serve over salmon. supply much of their produce. Table grapes make their way from Dance’n Hill Vineyard. Honey is buzzed in from Frerichs Farms, which is just up the road. And then there’s Dr. Steven Ollie, a family practitioner who acts as a middleman of sorts. “Really nothing beats a vineripened tomato, and his 80-yearold neighbor grows tomatoes,” Thompson said. “They are awesome, so we buy them and it helps her because it’s a little bit of income for her.” And while the salmon for one of Dawson’s Match Maker dishes isn’t local, the Alaskan commercial fisherman/guide who caught the sockeye spends most of the school year living in Nampa. “What Kris has at her restaurant is actually what I eat on my table,” said Pat Robbins, whose set gill-netting operation on the Alsek River runs June through August. “We’re selling all that we can catch, so I don’t really know that I need the promotion.” Dawson’s Match Maker

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productions highlighted a staple on the menu — Honey Glazed Salmon with the Bitner 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, and his own pasta dish with the Fujishin Family Cellars 2008 Viognier. “I love to make something plain turn into something beautiful,” Dawson said. “And I have a passion for fresh herbs. I have a huge herb garden at my home — savory, thyme, sage, tarragon, lavender, marigolds, lemon thyme, marjoram, chives, oregano. I even grew the Thai peppers for this dish.” The fruit-forward aspect of the Fujishin Viognier led Dawson to both contrast and complement it with his Spicy Cioppino-Style Pasta. “We didn’t really have anything spicy on the menu, so I was looking to do something like this,” he said. “I made it for my family first to make sure no one would die.” Zesty sauces also provide a creative outlet for Dawson, which allowed him to showcase Robbins’ salmon and the Bitner Chardonnay with his own sweet and tangy sheen of pomegranate and honey, backed by minced garlic and cayenne. Both wines are featured on Thompson’s wine list. And Fujishin is such as regular at The Orchard House he’s been known to have three meals a day at the neighborhood restaurant. “I never would have imagined I would know as much about wine as I do,” Thompson said. “And my 19-year-old son, who is working here, is so interested in winemaking. And Sherri’s 13-year-old son is, too.” The Orchard House, 14949 Sunnyslope Rd., Caldwell, Idaho, 83607, 208-459-8200, www.theorchardhouse.us. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s managing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest.

WINE Bitner Vineyards $16 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Snake River Valley —211 cases produced, 13.2% alcohol t’s ironic that the president of the Winegrape Growers Association of America knew next to nothing about wine grapes when he started in 1981. Ron Bitner chuckles while sharing the story that he honestly never heard of Chardonnay until he first planted some on the hillside below his home along the Sunnyslope region of Caldwell, Idaho. During the next three decades, the world-renowned entomologist developed relationships with many of the state’s top winemakers who tap into his 15 acres in Canyon County. However, his partnership with Greg Koenig runs deepest. While Koenig grows his list of clients, he continues to craft award-winning wines for his friend and neighbor since 1997. That’s when Bitner began to hold back some fruit to start his own winery, which Wine Press Northwest named as its 2009 Idaho Winery of the Year. While done in a reserve style, Koenig’s handling of some of the state’s oldest Chardonnay blocks is neither over the top in barrel treatment nor sur lie aging. “In the case of the Chardonnay, the Bitner version sees slightly less time in French oak barrels after fermentation than (the Koenig) wines, and the lees aren’t stirred,” Koenig said. “This results in a less creamy texture, but the fruit is brighter and the citrusy/mineral components are more pronounced. That being said, our version of this wine is very similar, and I really try to let the vineyard shine through without too much intervention outside of the new oak.” Those factors showcase the acidity, and the alcohol also is kept in check. Both features are critical to pairing with food and for cellaring, and this 3-year-old Chardonnay is showing no signs of age. Historically, there’s a double significance to the 2007 vintage. It marked the first under the designation of the Snake River Valley American Viticultural Area as well as the 10th anniversary of Koenig making wine for Bitner Vineyards. “That was a ripe year, which in this vineyard means more balanced wine,” Koenig said. “In cooler vintages, the wine is very tightly wound with lots of acid and lemon-like flavors. In 2007, the vineyard produced wines with more tropical aromas and bigger Chardonnay flavors without losing its hallmark citrus/mineral. It’s a lot like 1998 and 2000 — two of my favorite Bitner Chardonnays.”

Bitner Vineyards, 16645 Plum Rd., Caldwell, ID, 83605, 208-899-7648, www.bitnervineyards.com.

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Pomegranate Honey-Glazed Salmon paired with Bitner Vineyards 2007 Reserve Chardonnay

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “blind,” meaning the tasting panelists don’t know the producer. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

Reds Cabernet Sauvignon Barnard Griffin 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 6,500 cases, 13.7% alc., $17

Outstanding! Last fall, the 2007 vintage of this wine earned a rare Double Platinum from Wine Press Northwest. Well, its little brother is coming of age. While not a big wine, there’s lots of complexity, starting in the nose of boysenberry, black currants, vanilla bean, pink peppercorns and cedar. Black cherry and more boysenberry and vanilla flavors make for a dang smooth wine that’s supported by blueberry acidity, late tannins and lingering black fruit in the finish. Often, this wine can be found at grocery stores and liquor shops for less than $15.

Barnard Griffin 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 288 cases, 14.6% alc., $40

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Rob Griffin

describes this as “deftly balanced,” and there’s no disputing the coalescence of Sagemoor and Alder Ridge berries. Classic Cab hints of cassis are joined by raspberry jam, boysenberry, brown sugar and chocolate cake. That same black fruit gathers up blackberry for density on the palate, which brings integration, supple tannins and a wonderfully long finish of currant jam.

Barrister Winery 2007 Sagemoor Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 210 cases, 15.2% alc., $33

Excellent. When it comes to the three major

Bordeaux varieties, few in the Northwest match the level of quality of these two Spokane members of the bar. There’s a very plummy note to the aromas, along with boysenberry, juniper berry and barrel accents of chocolate and root beer. Its blackberry jam and plum flavors show the signs of Syrah (10%), yet there’s a rush of acidity and the good grip of Cab tannin.

Canyon’s Edge Winery

Kennewick’s bustling Southridge area. The offering of cassis, Rainier cherries, raspberries and chocolate features sandy tannins, ample acidity and a structure akin to a Bordeaux style.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 150,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

Outstanding! It’s mind-numbing just how much quality and diversity go through this Woodinville, Wash., tasting room. In this case, part of Bob Bertheau’s “secret sauce” is the addition of Syrah (15%). Beautiful oak imparts notes of Theo’s chocolate and Tully’s coffee amid hints of cassis, cherries and forest floor. Sweet and integrated tannins provide structure to the overall smoothness and lingering finish of chocolate and cherries.

Dumas Station Wines 2006 Minnick Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 95 cases, 15.3% alc., $60

Excellent. A century ago, this Dayton, Wash., prop-

erty began producing apples for the world. Now, it’s beginning to create wines that stand out in a world-famous valley. Jay DeWitt and Doug Harvey collaborated for a bottling that’s big on blackberries, espresso and Nestle Crunch aromas, joined also by complexity of red pepper flakes, cedar and bell pepper. Smooth and seamless is the structure with blackberries, cassis, a cafe mocha and marionberry acidity with firm tannins.

Hightower Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 272 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Excellent. The 10th anniversary of the flagship from

this Red Mountain boutique winery has its foundation on estate fruit, assisted by Alder Ridge (18%) and Pepper Bridge (9%). Wonderful aromas send out whiffs of cassis, Chukar Cherry, blackberry, lavender, vanilla bean and cedar. There’s a nice fruit core on the palate with more blackberry and cherry, supported by firm and frontal yet integrated tannins, and coffee in the finish.

Kestrel Vintners 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley, 2,096 cases, 13.9% alc., $22

Horse Heaven Hills, 970 cases, 13.3% alc., $24

Excellent. One of Prosser’s largest wineries goes

Excellent. This multi-generation operation contin-

beyond estate fruit (29%) and into McKinley Springs (32%), Elephant Mountain (21%) and

ues to grow, adding a second tasting room in

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Olsen Estate for this Cab, resulting in a theme of black cherry, blackberry, plums, coffee and a slice of bell pepper. Enjoy with prime rib or a T-bone.

Kestrel Vintners 2007 Winemaker Select Two Ton Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 280 cases, 13.9% alc., $40

Recommended. A block in which Cabernet

Sauvignon vines are clipped to one cluster per shoot makes for 16 clusters per vine — aka two tons per acre — leads to notes of cassis, blackberry, pencil shavings, chocolate, alfalfa and saddle leather.

Mercer Estates 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 4,473 cases, 14.5% alc., $23

Excellent. A stately effort, David Forsyth pulled

from McKinley Springs, Desert Wind and Zephyr Ridge — vineyards he knows like the back of his hand from his decades at Hogue Cellars. The nose only could sell this wine, rich with cassis, dusty cherries, tar, crushed oregano, chocolate and eucalyptus. Payday comes in mouth-filling boldness from Bing cherries, plums and pomegranate as the fruit evolves amid the frontal tannins. Further reward will come from cellaring, but enjoy now with prime rib or a Hershey Kiss.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 290 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Outstanding! Here’s one of most expensive releas-

es of the more than 30 created at this winery on the gateway to Mount Baker. Big yet mature oak tones don’t shout over the black cherries, adding hints of Graham cracker, smoky portabella mushroom and western red cedar. Similar yields show in the drink that feature chocolate, cherry and mint, backed by a slice of coconut and walnuts toasted with brown sugar. Nice acidity and firm tannins stretch out the charming farewell.

Patterson Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 182 cases, 14.9% alc., $32

Excellent. John Patterson and his father launched their winery in Monroe, Wash., before moving it to Woodinville in 2007. This production from Kiona Vineyards fruit offers dusty cherry and cedar, chalkboard dust, leaf tobacco and portabella aromas. It’s sweet black cherries and chocolate between the lips, polished by acidity and stretched out by leather and late tannins.

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2006 Berghan Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 97 cases, 14.4% alc., $28

Recommended. Plums and cherries, violets and

lavender, tobacco and coffee match well. Chalky tannins and balanced acidity carry the structure toward a bite of a Kit Kat bar as a capper.

Riverhaven Cellars 2007 Riverrock Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 300 cases, 14.2% alc., $34

Excellent. Here’s another winery that’s popped up in the Walla Walla Valley, only this one has more control than most young wineries because Dana Dibble is part-owner in the winery and manages his own vineyard. The nearly flawless nose feaW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases tures black currant, plum, cinnamon toast, tobacco leaf and cocoa. It goes down easy with black cherries and marionberry, statuesque tannins and chocolate-covered blueberries in the finish.

Upland Estates 2007 Old Vine Cabernet

clones from 10 vineyards. Cherry cola, cranberry, white strawberry, apricot, orange zest and toasted almonds lead the aromas. Montmorency cherry, cranberry and dried fig flavors come with good acidity that belongs at an Easter Sunday table with ham.

Snipes Mountain, 99 cases, 13.7% alc., $28

Anne Amie Vineyards

Excellent. Simply called Cabernet, it’s Cabernet

2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 3,671 cases, 13.6% alc., $35

Wines of Substance

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2008 Cs Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Limited Release Fringes Pinot Noir

Washington, 1,750 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Washington, 200 cases, 13.9% alc., $30

Excellent. A number of the state’s top vineyards

Outstanding! Rich Wheeler, director of vineyards for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, scours the fringes of the state for grapes worthy of the CSM wine club. Bob Bertheau transforms this into a youthful but athletic Pinot Noir with an intense blackberry nose that includes cranberry, Bing cherry, coffee and green peppercorn. Dark fruit softly penetrates the palate with more blackberry and black cherry flavors, great acidity, managed tannins and a bittersweet chocolate sendoff. Suggested fare includes roasted chicken, salmon fettuccine and pork tenderloin.

Pinot Noir Anam Cara Cellars 2007 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir

Recommended. Strawberry, cranberry, pie cherries,

apricot and white chocolate tones include hints of cloves, crushed hops and hickory-smoked meat that should lend this wine nicely to a smorgasbord. Suggested fare includes a chunk of sockeye salmon or wild mushroom soup.

clones to 1.5 tons per acre, these are the rewards. The experience begins with aromas of fruit punch with apricot, cherry cola and mulberry, accented with hints of cedar, roasted meat, lilac blossom and lawn grass. Juicy raspberry, president plum and Van cherry flavors and juicy tannins invite your return. Enjoy on its own, with a cheese plate or smoked ribs.

Anam Cara Cellars 2007 Heather’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 70 cases, 13.4% alc., $65

Excellent. The pride of Nick and Sheila Nicholas

shows in this release — named for their daughter. Hints of strawberry, blueberry, cassis and pie cherries gain complexity from cocoa powder, Earl Gray tea and smoked paprika. Sophistication and approachable describe the palate with delicious flavors of strawberry freezer jam, blueberries and Lakewood Black Cherry Juice. Raspberry acidity, a touch of minerality and restrained tannins help describe the structure.

Anam Cara Cellars 2007 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir

2008 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir Willamette valley, 894 cases, 13.5% alc., $48

Recommended. Cassis, pie cherry and boysenber-

ry notes include crushed mustard seed, teriyaki and cedar accents amid a finish of cola, pomegranate and supportive tannins. 2007 Pinot Noir Wahluke Slope, 53 cases, 14% alc., $24

Recommended. Two barrels of Clone 777 estate

fruit highlight notes of cherries, pink peppercorns, chocolate and cedar, finished with blueberries, white strawberries and young tannins.

Kramer Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District, 325 cases, 12.8% alc., $18

Chehalem Mountains, 280 cases, 13.4% alc., $45

Excellent. When you crop well-tended Dijon

Elk Cove Vineyards

Ginkgo Forest Winery

Sauvignon (96%) and Cabernet Franc (4%), and vines dating to 1973 contributed the majority. The history lesson opens with pie cherries, cassis, watermelon, eucalyptus and leather aromas. It’s black currants on the palate with cranberries, bittersweet chocolate and the Cab Franc arrives with some leafiness.

— Dwelley, Pepper Bridge, Phinney Hill, Sagemoor, Dwelley, Seven Hills, Portteus — take a role in this Cab that’s warmed front to back by opulent oak. Results show a theme of softened Bing cherries and warm boysenberries, deep dark chocolate and a bold finish.

WINE REVIEWS

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2007 Black Jack Pinot Noir

Recommended. Late rains in 2007 hamstrung many Pinot Noir producers in the Willamette Valley. Canned cherries, rhubarb, rose hips and candela leaf tobacco describe this drink, an example of a trying vintage. However, the lower alcohols and higher acidity will make this better over time.

Kyra Wines 2007 Pinot Noir Washington, 388 cases, 14.2% alc., $18

Recommended. A product of Evergreen Vineyard near Quincy and Blue Lake Vineyard near Omak, this stands tall with juicy cranberries, dusty cherries, a slice of peach and bittersweet chocolate.

Mission Hill Family Estate

Willamette Valley, 189 cases, 13.8% alc., $45

2007 Reserve Pinot Noir

Outstanding! If you’re a card player and Pinot

Okanagan Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $22 CDN

Noir lover, the bottle is worth owning simply for its striking label. You won’t be gambling on the vineyard’s Block 21 juice though, as this ranks with the best productions by Jason Bull for his bosses in Forest Grove, Ore. The nose is stacked with black cherries and coffee as hints of caramel, pineapple juice, rose petal and cedar get shuffled in. Cherries and coconut pay out on the balanced palate, followed by pomegranate, oregano, saddle leather and coffee.

Outstanding! A winner of multiple golds in 2009, what might be John Simes’ best effort with this variety is just beginning to reach its prime. The panoply of its perfume includes cranberry, dried strawberry, cassis, vanilla bean, cola, rose petal and charcoal briquette. Silkiness awaits with cherry and plum, accented by raspberry acidity and made decadent by chocolate truffle in the finish. Oak and tannin serve merely as accents.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery

Ponzi Vineyards

2007 Reserve Pinot Noir

2008 Tavola Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 464 cases, 13.8% alc., $38

Willamette Valley, 3,991 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. Those who dismiss Oregon Pinot Noir

Recommended. One of the largest releases each

from the 2007 vintage should pay closer attention to this winery. Ripe aromas of strawberry and poached cranberries gain complexity from hints of forest floor, cedar, mint and caramel. The same fruit returns to the palate with an easy approach, backed by cherry juice acidity, candied ginger and warm chocolate.

Chehalem Mountains, 1,100 cases, 13.4% alc., $33

year, it required contribution from the Aurora and Estate vineyards. Dark chocolate and black cherry aromas funnel into flavors of ripe brambleberries and blueberries with midpalate sweetness..

Stoller Vineyards 2007 JV Estate Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 5,810 cases, 13.3% alc., $25

Excellent. Here is the largest offering by this

Elk Cove Vineyards

Recommended. Does JV mean “junior varsity”

Newberg, Ore., boutique. Raspberry is a theme throughout, along with notes of strawberry fruit leather, smoky cherry, rose petals and moist earth. It’s smooth and subtle on the attack with graceful oak and shiny acidity. Pair this with cedar-planked king salmon or lox.

2008 Five Mountain Pinot Noir

wines? In a sense it does because these are junior vines and go under screwcap. Terroir from the appellation shows with high-toned red fruit aromas, rose hips and smoke, but there’s a silkiness to the palate with dark black cherries, vanilla and tar.

Anne Amie Vineyards 2008 Cuvée A Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.3% alc., $25

Excellent. Indeed, it’s quite a collage with six W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Willamette Valley, 517 cases, 13.5% alc., $48

Excellent. This Campbell family vineyard, planted

in 1978, boasts a view of five peaks in the Cascades, and the view over a glass of this looks nice, too. Black cherry and dried strawberry lead the aromas, with cinnamon, cedar, toasted walnut and milk chocolate falling in behind. Bing cherries and cranberry steal the show on the palate, supported by dusty tannins, hibiscus and milk chocolate at the end.

Stoller Vineyards 2006 SV Estate Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 1,578 cases, 14.3% alc., $40

Recommended. Pulling the cork on this more

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expensive “Senior Vines” release unlocks aromas of dusty black cherry, cassis, rhubarb, minerality and some oregano. Entry brings more black cherry and boysenberry flavors, giving way to Montmorency cherry tartness and lingering cranberry acidity.

Vin du Lac of Chelan NV Red Café Pinot Noir

Vineyard, and if this wine were sold in Walla Walla, Greg Lipsker and Michael White could fetch twice this price. Vine-picked raspberry, smoky cedar, chocolate, vanilla and crushed leaf aromas emerge. The drink reveals flavors of blackberry jam, chocolate covered cherries and more raspberries. Smooth tannins merely add support, as does the saddle leather and allspice.

Canyon’s Edge Winery

Excellent. Our 2010 Northwest Winery of the Year

2005 Aldercreek Vineyard Reserve Merlot

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Hannah Vineyard Pinot Noir

Horse Heaven Hills, 280 cases, 13.9% alc., $36

Excellent. Winemaker John Haw’s association with the Groth family began in the late 1990s when it began to ramp up its vineyards. This vintage marked the beginning of his winemaking influence, and it shows in this offering that starts with aromas of smoky cherry, Dr Pepper and chocolate chip cookie dough. The theme plays out on the palate, along with blackberry, baked raspberry, integrated tannins and more chocolate.

Willamette Valley, 104 cases, 13% alc., $40

Canyon’s Edge Winery

Outstanding! Smaller lots lend themselves for

2005 Merlot

more expression such as this from Forrest Klaffke. Van cherry, apricot, orange peel, sarsaparilla, cedar, pink peppercorns and crushed leaf aromas evolve into almost identical flavors. Hints of tangerine provide nice acidity, and there’s little in the way of tannin as this finishes with a bit of milk chocolate. Suggested fare includes duck confit or a beet salad.

Horse Heaven Hills, 788 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Willamette Valley Vineyards

Recommended. Devotees of toasty oak will partic-

2008 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 12,190 cases, 13% alc., $25

Recommended. It’s certified sustainable in virtually

every direction, all the way down to giving you a small kickback for taking your bottle to the winery. There’s reason to return with its classic high-toned red fruit character of pie cherry and cranberries. It is accented by rhubarb compote, smoky cedar, rose hips and wealth of age-worthy and food-friendly acidity.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Tualatin Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 340 cases, 13% alc., $40

Excellent. One of Oregon’s most venerable vine-

yards, first planted in 1973, doesn’t seem to be slowing down. Pomegranate, macerated raspberries and chokecherry tones blend well with those of citrus, cinnamon, green peppercorn and sagebrush.

Merlot Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 450 cases, 14.3% alc., $26

Excellent. This packs a nose full of raspberry, plum, Red Vines licorice, vanilla extract, cedar and sliced bell pepper. Inside the plush mouth feel of Merlot one expects in the form of plums, cherries and cassis. There’s a pinch of green peppercorn spice, light tannin and lingering farewell of cherry and coffee.

Barrister Winery 2007 Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 271 cases, 14.8% alc., $25

Outstanding! The fruit is derived from Dwelley

Syrah Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Jet Black Syrah Columbia Valley, 319 cases, 14.4% alc., $25

Columbia Valley, 345 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

takes only his second swing at making a Pinot Noir, and he’s produced a hit that spans two years. Smoky cherry, clove, moist earth, chocolate and vanilla help describe the aromas. The run batted in comes home with flavors of black cherry and black currant. A sense of pomegranate gives it lip-smacking acidity, and while it’s not silky, white chocolate oak makes it smooth.

swirl in a structure of filled with finesse, including fresh-roasted coffee and chocolate.

Recommended. Red currants, poached plums,

macerated blueberries keep the juicy acidity pushing bittersweet chocolate tannins along.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 160,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $16

ularly enjoy this because while there’s strong toast, there’s plenty of fruit to support the barrel program. Black cherries, blueberry and serviceberry tones include lime peel and eucalyptus. Coffee-like acidity and tea tannins add punch.

Recommended. Behind this sleek-looking black label are deep purple tones of marionberry, plums, bacon fat, coconut, cedar and devil’s food cake. It’s profuse and plummy with backing from boysenberry, then comes a delivery of blueberry acidity. Go glamping, and bring some barbecue.

Amavi Cellars 2007 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 270 cases, 14.1% alc., $34

Recommended. Penetrating aromas of pomegranate,

Bing cherry and vanilla are met by cinnamon toast and saddle leather. Boysenberry and blackberry are loaded on the palate with lots of bittersweet chocolate and some orange peel in the finish.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Syrah Columbia Valley, 450 cases, 13.8% alc., $18

Excellent. Kristina Mielke van Löben Sels has entered her second decade as winemaker at this family-owned winery in Spokane. Two years in French oak shows with whiffs of chocolate and Graham cracker, backed by plums, strawberry fruit leather and freshly cracked black pepper. Dark berry flavors, ripe strawberry and rich plums make this exceedingly expressive, capped by vanilla bean and chewy, chocolaty tannins.

Capstone Cellars

Otis Kenyon Wines

2006 Boushey Vineyard Syrah

2007 Merlot

Yakima Valley, 200 cases, 13.4% alc., $28

Walla Walla Valley, 230 cases, 14.2% alc., $30

Excellent. This Longview, Wash., winery continues its successful association with esteemed grower Dick Boushey in this bottling. Light oak doesn’t get in the way of the delicate bouquet of blueberries, plums and cedar. Lovely structure across the palate begins with pomegranate followed by blue fruit acidity of marionberry and boysenberry, pushing the tannins to the background.

Excellent. It’s tough to go wrong with Seven Hills

fruit, and Dave Stephenson shepherds those berries into a toasty presentation. Raspberry soda, black cherry, and horehound pick up barrel hints from chocolate and fresh-ground coffee. The sweet palate gathers earmarks of black cherry, juicy marionberry and anise, and then Ovaltine and wintergreen flag the farewell.

Cinder Wines

RoxyAnn Winery

2008 Syrah

2007 Merlot

Snake River Valley, 400 cases, 14.1% alc., $27

Rogue Valley, 502 cases, 15% alc., $26

Outstanding! Melanie Krause continues to succeed

Recommended. This lot of estate fruit had few

with Rhône varieties in Idaho, and she stays focused on three vineyards for her Syrah — Sawtooth, Skyline and Williamson. Her practice of fermenting some of her lots directly in new American barrels is apparent in the nose with blackberry, stewed plums, root beer, nutmeg, anise and cedar. Flavors feature president plums and boysenberry in a juicy, rich and quaffable fashion. Acidity wins out over tannin across the palate, and there’s a warm mocha in the end.

issues with ripeness, making for hedonistic wine with dark strawberry, black cherry and stewed plum features. Bright acidity and bold tannins combine for a rewarding drink.

Wines of Substance 2008 Me Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,700 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Outstanding! A Walla Walla triumvirate of Jason Huntley, Greg Harrington (Gramercy) and Jamie Brown (Waters) created this sleek concept derived from the periodic table and priced below most Walla Walla wines — including their own labels. A group of well-known vineyards made for a Merlot that offers aromas of blueberry, cherry, violets, tarry oak and roasted meat. The cherry jam and brambleberry flavors

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Griffin Creek 2007 Syrah Rogue Valley, 248 cases, 13.5% alc., $38

Outstanding! Lakeside and Fortmiller vineyards

have some history of producing worthy Syrah, and this continues the tradition. Aromas include black cherry, cassis, pomegranate, vanilla bean, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases anise and Dr Pepper. Cassis and supple blueberries fill the front of the drink, and there’s skilled weight to the tannin/acid balance. Suggested pairing includes lamb with a blackberry compote.

Hightower Cellars 2007 Murray Syrah

blueberry acidity, fine-grained tannins and marionberry jam in the finish.

RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Syrah Rogue Valley, 630 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

family dog will lead the greeting party. His happy face appears on the bottle, which brings notes of strawberry fruit leather, blackberry and pie cherry acidity. Chocolate lovers can truly enjoy the finish.

Excellent. This Medford, Ore., winery resides within a historic orchard, and you’ll be hard pressed to find a bigger fruit bomb of a Syrah. Blue fruit aromas are joined by a punch of cherry and raspberry, yet there are accents of rose petal, moist earth, chocolate and tobacco. Blueberry and boysenberry gush in the mouth with huge acidity, backed by vanilla bean and late tannins.

Kettle Valley Winery

Seia Wine Cellars

2007 Syrah

2007 Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah

Naramata Bench, 207 cases, 14% alc., $35 CDN

Horse Heaven Hills, 367 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Recommended. Fascinating tones of president

Recommended. A lighter-style Syrah, its fruit struc-

plums, canned pie cherries, allspice and rhododendron tones swirl amid perfumy barrel notes of cherry wood and cedar.

ture is one of blueberry, mincemeat, dried strawberry and Jolly Rancher grape candy, finished by a drink of Cherry Vanilla Coke.

Kestrel Vintners

Sleight of Hand Cellars

2006 Kestrel View Estate Vineyard Syrah

2007 Levitation Syrah

Yakima Valley, 980 cases, 13.8% alc., $22

Columbia Valley, 340 cases, 14.9% alc., $40

Excellent. There’s a heady assortment of telltale

Outstanding! There’s no hocus pocus here as Trey

Syrah aromas with blackberries, blueberries, black pepper, mincemeat and gun metal, backed by pleasing vanilla via oak and some crushed leaf. Pleasing richness comes with easy-drinking flavors of juicy boysenberry and plums. The structure shows more acidity than many of its kind, perhaps the influence of Mourvèdre (9%) and Malbec (6%), and oak influence returns with the chocolate finish.

Busch built a wine that’s unmistakably Syrah, and he did it with three of the finest vineyards in the state — Les Collines (50%), Lewis (44%) and Portteus. Out come aromas of blackberry, blueberry, smoked meat, Costa Rican coffee and star anise. Tasting is believing as blackberry and blueberry notes continue with richness and complexity. There’s lingering tartness from boysenberry and chocolaty tannins. Open sesame!

Magnificent Wine Co.

Sovereign Cellars

2007 The Originals Syrah

2007 Syrah

Columbia Valley, 2,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $22

Red Mountain, 25 cases, 13.8% alc., $28

Excellent. The concept with this line is 100% of the

Outstanding! Free-run juice from Kiona Vineyards laid the foundation for a supreme effort from Olympia winemaker Dennis Gross. Strong chocolate oak aromas are backfilled with raspberry jam, blackberries and Red Vines licorice. It’s a substantial drink with more dark chocolate on the entry and long brambleberry flavors. Food-friendly tannins should pair nicely with a char-grilled porterhouse.

Red Mountain, 249 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Recommended. If you visit the winery, Murray the

variety, and they’ve stayed true with identifiable Syrah notes of blueberry and smoky bacon fat aromas, joined by plums, cola, moist earth and sage. Boysenberry continues onto the flavors that include blackberry jam on toast, with lots of midpalate acidity and a good tug of tannin in the end.

Red Sky Winery 2005 Syrah Washington, 196 cases, 14.9% alc., $30

Stag’s Hollow Winery

Excellent. Winemakers dealing with Boushey Vineyards and Klipsun Vineyards know they won’t have trouble with ripening, and this young Woodinville, Wash., winery took advantage. It offers aromas of dense blackberries and blueberries, a fresh sprig of mint and chocolate cake hot out of the oven. The drink is akin to a slice of cherry chocolate cake drizzled with blackberry syrup, backed by earthiness and a cup of coffee.

2008 Syrah

Riverhaven Cellars 2007 Riverrock Vineyard Syrah

Okanagan Valley, 310 cases, 14.8% alc., $28 CDN

Excellent. British Columbia’s Corkscrew Trail is

producing some of the province’s top wines, and this classy tasting room is excelling with Rhône varieties. Co-fermented with 9% Viognier helps bring out big boysenberry aromas with gamy meat, gunmetal and alder smoke. Very juicy is the entry with more boysenberry and sweet blueberry, making for a lighter styled Syrah with racy acidity, backed down slightly by a finish of Belgian chocolate.

Walla Walla Valley, 150 cases, 14.4% alc., $28

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Outstanding! Deborah Hansen of Cougar Crest receives the credit for making the 2007 wines grown in the cobble of Milton-Freewater, Ore., by this fledgling winery. It’s loaded with plums, black cherries, violets, chocolate, coffee and cedar and roasted meat. Big black cherries carry on in the complex mouth, where there’s

2007 Oldfield’s Syrah

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Okanagan Valley, 527 cases, 14.6% alc., $35 CDN

Excellent. American expatriate Sandra Oldfield

increased production of this wine by 60 percent over the previous vintage, and her estate Diamondback Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench contributed 84% to the end product.

WINE REVIEWS

Fascinating notes of minerality add to the aromatics of plums, black cherry, hazelnut coffee and molasses. It’s cherry and chocolate on the chewy entry, followed by chalkboard dust tannins and tight acidity that help focus the cherry flavors down the middle of the tongue.

Upland Estates 2007 Syrah Snipes Mountain, 72 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Outstanding! Hired gun winemaker Robert Smasne and grower Todd Newhouse turned quickly into a winning team. Blackberry fills the nostrils along with cherry jam, coffee, a chocolate brownie and herbal tea. It’s a big, rich, mouth-coating wine that presents expressive boysenberry, blueberry and cherry flavors. Zesty acidity and well-managed tannins make it all fit.

Vale Wine Co. 2008 Syrah Snake River Valley, 48 cases, 14.5% alc., $27

Outstanding! John Danielson’s effort with Syrah is another example of what Idaho can do with Rhône varieties. Black cherry, smoked meat, black pepper, tobacco, leather and chocolate aromas are matched on the palate. Marionberry and cherry jam provide pleasing tartness and setting the stage for sweet tannins.

Walter Dacon Wines 2007 C’est Syrah Magnifique Yakima Valley, 240 cases, 14.8% alc., $42

Outstanding! Top spots such as Boushey, Elephant

Mountain and Ranch at the End of the Road allowed Lloyd Anderson to create one of the most expressive wines of the year. Bright red strawberries, raspberry, vanilla, root beer and candy cane aromas expand into a hedonistic spill of dark fruit across the mouth. Blackberries and blueberries mix with allspice for a feel of bubbling pie thanks to subdued tannins late acidity.

Cabernet Franc Abacela 2007 Cabernet Franc Southern Oregon, 251 cases, 14.3% alc., $27

Recommended. True to the variety, it’s cassis and

plum with underlying tobacco leaf, pencil lead and green peppercorn aromas. It’s plumy, cherry and chalky on the palate with leather notes in the background and blueberry tartness.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 352 cases, 13.8% alc., $18

Excellent. Cropped at 2 1/2 tons per acre and harvested Oct. 19 made for exceptional drink that maintains the variety’s leafy quality. Chukar Cherry, berry compote, cola, cinnamon and massive chocolaty oak aromas still allow fresh herbs to filter through. There are more black cherries and mint on the entry with raspberry jam and brassy tannins. The van Löben Sels pair this alongside beef tenderloin in a huckleberry-Cab reduction sauce.

Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley, 143 cases, 14.7% alc., $42

Recommended. Black cherry, blackberry, shaved

Baker’s chocolate, alder smoke, steak juice,

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

leaf and pie cherries. In typical Precept Brands fashion, it’s built and priced for everyday enjoyment.

vors and acidity as oak influence is pushed aside. Consider serving with a marinated flank steak featuring thyme.

Excellent. Kristina Mielke van Löben Sels gath-

Avery Lane Winery

Dusted Valley Vintners

2007 Merlot

2007 Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Four Vineyards Merlot

ers up fruit from four prized vineyards — Bacchus, Conner Lee, Dionysus and Klipsun — and creates a bargain. Blueberry, boysenberry jam, cherries, tar and Oreo cookie aromas delve into juicy blueberry and bittersweet chocolate flavors.

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2007 Wahluke Slope Vineyard Sangiovese Wahluke Slope, 420 cases, 13.6% alc., $15

Recommended. Estate fruit came off the vine on

Washington, 3,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

Recommended. Toasty oak influences the nose

and body with sweet milk chocolate notes, backed by black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and blueberries. It’s a lighter in style with wellintegrated tea tannins.

Chandler Reach Vineyards NV 36 Red Wine

Oct. 9 to preserve the grape’s key component — acidity. While the aromas feature raspberry freezer jam, white strawberry, coffee and Worcestershire sauce, there’s a lot of finesse on the palate with berry compote, cordial cherries and ample acidity. Suggested pairings include honey-glazed pork tenderloin or a tomato-based pasta.

Yakima Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.8% alc., $14

Avery Lane Winery

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Syrah

Washington, 2,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

Columbia Valley, 30,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Recommended. Legally, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon

Excellent. It’s rare to find Syrah such as this in

(75%), but the addition of Syrah (19%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Lemberger help bring out components of strawberry-filled hard candy, purple blackberry, raspberry with the

this category. Whiffs of dusty chocolate, black cherry, Jolly Rancher grape candy and tobacco leaf. There’s enjoyable elegance on the palate with boysenberry and marionberry fla-

beet juice coffee fill the nose. On the palate, it’s blueberry jam, loganberry, and Dr Pepper flavors with bittersweet chocolate tannins and Craisin-esque acidity on the chase.

Griffin Creek 2007 Cabernet Franc Rogue Valley, 296 cases, 14.5% alc., $38

Excellent. A whiff of cigar leaf is often a giveaway

you’re in the presence of Cabernet Franc, such is the case brought by this other label of Willamette Valley Vineyards. However, there’s fruit and oak to support that herbaceousness with notes of plums, black cherry and smoothness of chocolate. Look for light tannins and cured meat in the finish.

Marchetti Wines

Recommended. Priced for everyday enjoyment,

it's also built to last. Abundant oak tones of vanilla bean, roasted coffee and malt surround black cherry aromas. Flavors feature deep rich chocolate and cherries, raspberries and Craisins, backed by bold tannins and brown sugar.

tradition with this lesser-appreciated, foodfriendly Bordeaux variety. It’s sweet cherry, strawberry fruit leather, fresh raspberry, allspice and tar in the nose. The drink shows balance with a return of raspberries, cassis and pie cherry, finished with a pop of cherry tomato.

Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $15

Outstanding! One of the stated goals of our 2010 Washington Winery of the Year is to “make the best $15 bottle of Washington wine on the shelf.” Well, they validated their seat at the table with this illustrious screwcap offering that’s almost overflowing with strawberry jam, blueberries, smoky and coffee. The involvement of Syrah (7%), with dabs of Grenache and Cinsault, make it easy on the approach and balanced from start to finish.

Eaton Hill Winery 2005 Eaton Hill Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 92 cases, 13% alc., $14

Excellent. Hand-harvested estate fruit from one

of the loftier blocks in the appellation makes this quaffer a bargain. There's a fruit punch tone to the aromas with cherry, blueberry and strawberry, but there's complexity from hints of cocoa powder, cedar and celery leaf. Those berries run right through from start to finish in the mouth with bright tannins and pleasing tartness. light oak aromas are followed by lots of pie cherry and blueberry flavors with just a bit of tannin. This will be great with artisan pizza.

Wedge Mountain Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 48 cases, 13.5% alc., $22

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2006 Proprietor’s Limited Release Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley, 119 cases, 15.4% alc., $17

Excellent. A wealth of oak brings white chocolate

chips to the front of the nose with black cherries, crushed leaf and leather joining in. Ripeness is apparent on the palate with plums and black Bing cherries, a titch of juicy raspberry and some late notes of crushed leaf carry into a rich finish of bittersweet chocolate.

Recommended. Charlie McKee in Peshastin,

Wash., took fruit from Harold Pleasant in the Yakima Valley and turned out a food-worthy wine typical of this variety. It’s unmistakably Cab Franc as crushed leaf and high-toned red fruit aromas leap out. There’s a focus of acidlaced raspberry and boysenberry in the flavors, with more herbal notes. Pair this with Mediterranean fare or poultry rubbed with Italian seasoning.

Sangiovese

2008 Cabernet Franc

OS Winery

Columbia Valley, 12 cases, 14.6% alc., $28

2007 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc

Excellent. Indeed, Rich LaRosa released the

Horse Heaven Hills, 210 cases, 14.6% alc., $28

Barrister Winery

equivalent of a half-barrel from his Lacey, Wash., shop. Light aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry, black cherry and cedar comes through in full force on the palate. There’s a nice grip to the structure, yet acidity lies over the top.

Recommended. Here’s an expression of Cab

Red Mountain, 149 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Marshall’s Winery

Franc that exudes richness, abundant black fruit and little of the leafiness one expects to find. There is, however, a brightness to the acidity, a rabbit punch of tannin, some pepper and milk chocolate in the back end.

2005 Cabernet Franc

Stina’s Cellars

Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

2007 Cabernet Franc

Excellent. One of the Columbia Gorge’s early

Columbia Valley, 69 cases, 14.6% alc., $20

winegrowers, Ron Johnson, continues his solid

Recommended. Dusty raspberry, blueberries and

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2008 Kiona Vineyards Sangiovese Excellent. It’s the first bottling of this lively Italian grape for this two Spokane attorney, and they appear to be a quick study. Their trademark with reds is opulent oak, and they indeed poured this into new French oak for 15 months, which explains the chocolate and Triscuit aromas, but there’s lots of cherry jam to sniff, too. And there’s a luscious entry of cherry to the palate, which continues to gather tones of strawberry fruit leather, fresh bell pepper and mouth-coating W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2006 Ginkgo Red Wine Wahluke Slope, 454 cases, 13.9% alc., $12

Recommended. A neighborhood blend of

Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah (38%) and Merlot allows for notes of cooked cherries, blueberry and plums with pleasing allspice, vanilla and light oak accents.

oak, light on the pocketbook and bright on the palate. It shows lots of black cherry and blueberry notes with pencil lead and mineral points. There’s leanness of raspberry in its acidity and ample tannins to pare with meats such flank or round steak.

Maryhill Winery 2008 Winemaker’s Red

Glen Fiona Winery

Columbia Valley, 27,452 cases, 13.8% alc., $14

2007 Syrah

Recommended. This edition carries newcomer Richard Batchelor’s signature on the label and the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (30%), Syrah (20%) and Cab Franc ranks as the winery’s largest bottling. Smoky oak, cassis, green peppercorns and tobacco leaf aromas evolve into rich and redeeming flavors of blackberry, cherry, chocolate and mint.

Columbia Valley, 585 cases, 13.9% alc., $15

Excellent. A fascinating nose of blueberry, light

cherry, cola, fresh beet juice and coffee only gets better on the tongue with huge blackberry and blueberry flavors and acidity with baking spice in the finish.

Hogue Cellars 2007 Red Table Wine Columbia Valley, 5,201 cases, 13.9% alc., $10

Recommended. This blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon (44%), Merlot (35%), Syrah (20%) and Malbec features blueberries and Rainier cherries amid light oak, pencil lead and minerality. It’s so smooth and easy going that late tannins arrive right in the nick of time.

Lone Canary Winery NV Bird House Red Columbia Valley, 584 cases, 14% alc., $15

Outstanding! This Spokane winery changed

ownership, closed its tasting room and plans to move across town, but before doing so, it hatched another top rating with this bargain back-blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese from Preston, Willard and Aldercreek vineyards. Light oak allows the Syrah to exudes aromas of boysenberry, blackberry and steak juice, while Cab contributes the black currant. Smooth, rich and bold flavors of more currants and boysenberry are balanced by juicy acidity and finished with hints of chocolate and blackberry liqueur.

Magnificent Wine Co. 2007 House Red Wine Columbia Valley, 60,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Outstanding! Charles Smith of K Vintners created

the concept for these wines, and Precept Brands across town in Walla Walla now promotes them. In this instance, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah (12%) with drops of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot. The results is an easy-going, drink now bottle of boysenberry milkshake with chocolate-covered cherries and juicy cranberries and pomegranate in the finish.

Magnificent Wine Co. 2008 Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 13,000 cases, 13% alc., $13

Excellent. Obviously, these folks don’t suffer

from triskaidekaphobia as 13 seems to be a sweet spot for this wine that’s light on the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2007 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 600 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

Excellent. Randy Finley operates one of the

state’s most established wineries in Western Washington, and he relies on fruit east of the Cascades for the majority of his production. He’s released a straightforward and honest Cab loaded with high-toned red fruit of Rainier cherry, raspberry and cranberry that’s not overly oaked and wears its acidity well.

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2007 Barrel Select Merlot Yakima Valley, 404 cases, 14.3% alc., $15

Recommended. Black currant, cherry taffy, moist

earth, cigar leaf and roasted meat tones carry into a finish of dusty tannins that will pair nicely with a helping of Shepherd’s Pie.

Pine & Post 2007 Merlot Washington, 15,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Excellent. It’s right on the border of Merlot

(75%) with Cabernet Franc (14%), Lemberger (4%), Syrah (4%) and Sangiovese in tow, and Hal Landvoigt’s team built a very mellow Merlot. There’s delicious boysenberry, raspberry and black cherry tones throughout in a straightforward fashion.

Renegade Wine Co. 2008 Red Wine Columbia Valley, 1,400 cases, 14.1% alc., $14

Recommended. A second label for Walla Walla’s

Sleight of Hand Cellars, this blend of Syrah and Grenache gets a lively dose of Sangiovese. The accents of blueberry and boysenberry run throughout, along with hints of plum, fresh caramel, green peppercorns and shaved Belgian chocolate. It’s a tablefriendly wine because it’s loaded with acidity.

Scatter Creek Winery 2007 Daves Rajin' Red Wine Columbia Valley, 170 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

Outstanding! Don’t judge Terril Keary’s wines by low-budget labels. This blend of Syrah (60%), Merlot (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon struck gold at the Capital Food & Wine Festival in part because of its reliance on free-run juice and brief time in French oak. That combination yields aromas of fresh raspberry juice, Rainier cherries, and sarsaparilla and timothy hay. Next is a huge entry of fruit punch flavors, joined by red currant and white pepper.

Silver Lake Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

Rattlesnake Hills, 5,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $9

2007 Barrel Select Syrah

Recommended. This 60/40 blend of estate fruit

Yakima Valley, 254 cases, 15.5% alc., $14

produces tones of bright cherries, plums, vanilla, light toast and vanilla, and the package is firmly wrapped in tannin.

Excellent. Such an effort with this variety at this

price point from a small, family-owned operation deserves praise. Crawford and Lonesome Springs Ranch fruit made for black fruit and huge black pepper aromas with a whiff of fresh-baked brownie. It’s a hedonistic drink featuring flavors of Chukar Cherry, dark raspberry with a cup of espresso as you head out the door.

Pine & Post 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Silver Lake Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 5,740 cases, 13.8% alc., $11

Recommended. Black cherries, cassis, vanilla,

rose petals, green peppercorns and crushed leaf notes do most of the talking. The midpalate and beyond shows pleasing tartness and roasted coffee.

Washington, 10,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Wines of Substance

Recommended. Few folks probably know that

2008 Sy Syrah

these recession-resistant wines are created in Walla Walla. While it’s not a sinewy Cab, there is some complexity in store for the consumer, starting with aromas of strawberry fruit leather, watermelon, lavender and a sprig of thyme. Balance shows on the tongue with blueberries, more watermelon and dried cherries, finished with a piece of Golden Graham cereal.

Washington, 1,900 cases, 13.7% alc., $15

Excellent. The folks at Waters Winery and

Gramercy Cellars claim some of their Syrah lots didn’t measure up to Walla Walla standards, which led them to declassify juicy and create this label a couple of years ago. The consumer wins with a bowl of blueberries and Rainier cherries in a medium structure. Notes of black pepper, smoke, and sarsaparilla stretch it out.

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milk chocolate. It closes with orange zest.

Canyon’s Edge Winery

stage for the rich blackberry flavors throughout, joined by tasty tannins, then notes of cedar and cassis in the finish.

2006 Sangiovese Horse Heaven Hills, 392 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Pend d’Oreille Winery

Excellent. The approach taken here is one of a

2006 Kestrel Vineyard Sangiovese

Super Tuscan style because of the influence of oak. Big black cherries, chocolate fudge and smoky tobacco fill the nose. Cherries bring lots of ripeness to the jammy drink, along with vanilla and more chocolaty oak.

Washington, 135 cases, 15.4% alc., $28

Kyra Wines 2007 Pheasant Vineyard Sangiovese Wahluke Slope, 133 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Recommended. The Baerlochers’ estate fruit, and

Kyra’s light use of oak, creates a food-friendly offering of cherries, cassis, cracked black pepper, bay leaf and tobacco.

Angel Vine

2007 Sangiovese Recommended. Dense and smoky oak surrounds

Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Walter Dacon Wines

2008 Sangiovese

cedar and black licorice tones to the nose of plums and cassis. Such deep color provides a

2008 Avery Vineyard Zinfandel

Excellent. This summer, Stephen Meyer marks his 15th anniversary of winemaking in Sandpoint, Idaho, but he’ll be the first to tell you that relationships with Yakima Valley growers have been a cornerstone to his longevity. Here he created balance and preserved Sangiovese’s vibrant acidity while offering notes of cherries, currants, cherry tomatoes, crushed herbs and Milk Duds.

Red Mountain, 208 cases, 14.9% alc., $31

Excellent. Spicy Hungarian oak adds smoke,

Angel Vine Outstanding! This vineyard near Maryhill Museum is helping to gain fame for this small Zin-focused winery in Carlton, Ore. Black currants, plums, raspberry, red licorice, spiced apple and juniper berries send your mind racing. Those currants and plums allow this to ride widely across the palate like a Studebaker, showing remarkable balance of acidity, tannin and alcohol for this variety. Grill a New York strip rubbed with Montreal seasoning and serve it with this gold-medal winner at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Marchetti Wines Columbia Valley, 12.4% alc., 15 cases, $28

Zinfandel/Primitivo

the black cherry, red currants and cranberry approach, but the fruit provides abundant acidity. Serve with planked salmon or a puttanesca.

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2008 Les Collines Vineyard Zinfandel Wallla Walla Valley, 420 cases, 14% alc., $22

Excellent. A legal threat prompted this tiny Oregon winery to change its name from Three Angels, but its devotion to this Croatian variety is unwavering. There’s a brightness to the bouquet of boysenberry, strawberry, cranberry and cassis, along with barrel notes of chocolate, sandalwood and

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recent releases steamed milk. Boysenberries build on the palate, joined by more cassis, chocolate and blood orange acidity that overrides the tannin structure.

Angel Vine

blackberry, finished by coffee and an eye-popping sense of Death By Chocolate.

Ferraro Cellar 2007 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel

2008 Stonetree Vineyard Zinfandel

Columbia Valley, 66 cases, 14.1% alc., $24

Columbia Valley, 75 cases, 15.2% alc., $20

Excellent. The Gunkel family sells fruit to some of

Outstanding! Ed Fus grows Pinot Noir in Oregon’s

the largest wineries in the Northwest, but they continue their association with one of Oregon’s smallest. Dick Ferraro doesn’t disappoint with this rather oaky Zin, which opens with cherry, molasses, Bosco chocolate, sandalwood and char. In the mouth, it’s unctuous with black cherries, stewed plums, cured meat and dark roasted espresso flavors and textures.

Eola-Amity Hills, but his primary passion and pursuit remains Zinfandel, and he’s finding success in various places. Here, it’s Tedd Wildman’s site on the Wahluke Slope that helps make for mouthwatering piquant aromas of raspberry, cherry, cranberry, peppered beef jerky, tar and anise. It’s a razzy and very cherry drink with zesty pomegranate acidity, pink peppercorn and chocolaty tannins to pare with meaty lasagna.

Maryhill Winery

WINE REVIEWS

to its nose with plums, cassis, blackberry, cherry cola, vanilla and fresh fig. Dark fruit plies its way to the smooth and balanced palate, joined by Montmorency cherry acidity and some crushed leaf. Chocolaty tannins give it length.

Abacela 2008 Estate Dolcetto Umpqua Valley, 281 cases, 12.9% alc., $20

Excellent. Here marked Andrew Wenzl’s first vin-

tage as head winemaker at Abacela, so this bodes well for the future. Black cherry, red currant, blueberry and Italian herb aromas lead to blueberries and more currants in the tongue-coating drink. The preservation of acidity and minor influence of oak make it very lively and rather Italian.

2007 Zinfandel

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars

Angel Vine

Columbia Valley, 3,600 cases, 15.3% alc., $22

2007 Wahluke Slope Vineyard Petite Sirah

2008 Zinfandel

Recommended. Strawberry, Bing cherry, rose

Wahluke Slope, 140 cases, 13.8% alc., $32

Columbia Valley, 420 cases, 14.8% alc., $20

petal, cracked wheat and smoky oak aromas lay the foundation for one of the Northwest’s largest offerings of Zin. Inside, there’s mellow balance of black cherry, raspberry acidity and a pinch of tannin in the finish.

Recommended. This Spokane, Wash., winery celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2009, and here marks its first bottling of the variety from this site. It shows tones of rich boysenberry, Montmorency cherry and orange zest, with ground cloves, chocolaty tannins and bright acidity.

Excellent. Assembling fruit from four sources in

Washington — Avery, Coyote Canyon, Les Collines and Stonetree — makes for a solid chassis built with parts of Primitivo (18%) and Petite Sirah (6%). Aromas of coffee, cedar and green peppercorn accompany hints of raspberry and boysenberry from the French and Hungarian barrels. Flavors turn more toward blueberry, blackberry and black currents, backed by charry oak and ample tannin.

Angel Vine 2008 Primitivo

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Zinfandel

Barnard Griffin

Red Mountain, 68 cases, 15.3% alc., $30

2008 Grenache

Recommended. There’s a strawberry note typical of

Columbia Valley, 128 cases, 14.8% alc., $25

the variety, along with notes of flat cherry taffy, Red Hots candy, smoky leaf tobacco and saddle leather. It’s a lighter style with pie cherries and red currants, lots of cinnamon and assertive tannin.

Recommended. Boysenberry jam, baked black

Columbia Valley, 210 cases, 15.2% alc., $20

Other reds

Excellent. Part of the romance surrounding this

Italian descendent of Zinfandel is that it might have been poured at The Last Supper. Coyote Canyon in the Horse Heaven Hills and Stonetree on the Wahluke Slope fruit provide aromas of macerated cherries, milk chocolate, roasted coffee, toffee, orange zest, Wheat Thins cracker, red peppercorn and homemade pizza sauce. Plush is the palate with rich black cherries, boysenberry, Raisinette, mace and

cherry, cinnamon, caramel and cedar notes are wrapped up in warm oak before a flourish of pie cherry and cranberry in the finish.

Barnard Griffin 2007 Reserve Petit Verdot

Abacela

Columbia Valley, 157 cases, 13.9% alc., $35

2007 Malbec Umpqua Valley, 380 cases, 13.6% alc., $22

Outstanding! Fanfare continues to grow for this minor Bordeaux variety, and many may not know that Earl Jones was one of the first in the Northwest to bottle Malbec on its own. This ranks among the best — and least expensive. There’s still some adolescent

Outstanding! Commonly — and sparingly — used as a blender by many, Richland, Wash., winemaker Rob Griffin turns in a well-tamed Petit Verdot. Cassis, black cherry, all spice, earthiness, malted barley, chocolate brownie and lime peel show up in nose. A purple fruit with plums and boysenberry impart richness on the

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attack, which is filled up with chocolate, tar and late acidity to pair with crispy duck.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Cinsault Yakima Valley, 350 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. A fascinating drink that’s pure Cinsault

flaunts aromas of strawberry juice, lime, milk chocolate and smoky cedar. It’s delicate and juicy with more strawberry, Rainier cherry and cranberry flavors as the oak is virtually transparent. The winemaking team suggests serving it slightly chilled, and we suggest pairing it with Chinook salmon or roast pork in a cherry Port sauce.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Malbec Wahluke Slope, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Recommended. Here’s one of the larger produc-

tions of Malbec in the Northwest, and it’s loaded with dense oak, Chukar Cherry and lingonberry notes that coat the glass and the mouth, capped by a brashness of tannins.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope, 700 cases, 14.4% alc., $25

Excellent. Members of the Vintage Reserve Club

get first crack at this, and thankfully there’s some scale to the production. Blueberry, boysenberry, Van cherry and smoked meet aromas are joined by hints of tar and cedar. The drink is not bashful but rather big with a similar fruit and oak profile, yet there’s great acidity and managed chocolaty tannins. Enjoy with St. Louisstyle ribs or tomato-based pasta or pizza.

blueberry, cola nut, a Cinnabon roll, chili powder, coffee cigar leaf, hibiscus, saddle leather and sun-dried tomato. A tilt brings in mouth-filling black cherry, blackberry and meaty flavors. The oak, acidity and tannin strike an accord as the drink is finished with coffee and chocolate.

Northwest who grow this grape or makes wine with it spells it as “Lemberger.” Then again, Ron John is his own man. It’s creamy and juicy, laced with raspberry and red currants that give it a rustic complexity. Enjoy with beef shoulder roast rubbed with Montreal seasoning.

Kettle Valley Winery

Otis Kenyon Wines

2007 Malbec

2007 Carménère

Naramata Bench, 250 cases, 14% alc., $35 CDN

Horse Heaven Hills, 100 cases, 14.1% alc., $36

Excellent. Few in Canada bottle this Bordeaux

Excellent. If fans of traditional, food-friendly and

variety on its own, and here’s a trail to follow. Nearly two years in French oak lead to aromas of black cherry, pomegranate toasted walnut, red licorice rope and mint dental floss. Rich cherry and oak influences carry on through to the palate with enjoyable sweetness, orange peel in the midpalate, and well-textured tannin.

leafy Cabernet Franc are bored, then hook up with this obscure Bordeaux variety. Wines featuring “Carm” are not for the faint of heart, including this one off Phinney Hill Vineyard. Whiffs of sagebrush, black cherry, salumi, Zoom cereal and Ovaltine stop you cold. The mouth-filling palate is traditional but a bit rustic with blackberry jam, lavender, pepperocini and chocolaty tannins.

Kramer Vineyards 2008 Barbera Walla Walla Valley, 100 cases, 13.8% alc., $28

Otis Kenyon Wines

Excellent. Willamette Valley winemaker Trudy

2007 Malbec

Kramer purchased this on the bulk market, gave it nearly a year in oak and emerged with a charmer. It opens with black pepper aromas, chased by raspberry, boysenberry, plum, Cherry Vanilla Coke, gamy meat and mint leaf. So easy is the drink that there’s almost a viscosity to it on the palate, which is filled with boysenberry, pomegranate and pie cherries. It doesn’t match the acidity of Italian Barbera, but there’s enough to pair with wild boar or a hearty stew.

Horse Heaven Hills, 70 cases, 14.1% alc., $36

Kramer Vineyards

2008 Malbec

Excellent. Don’t bother looking long and hard for

this small release, and don’t get too attached to it if you own some as this Walla Walla winery doesn’t have Malbec in production any longer. So the swan song comes with huge penetration of blackberries and cordial cherries, a grind of tannin of the midpalate and a blend of cocoa powder and licorice in the farewell.

Spangler Vineyards

2007 Carmine Big Red

Southern Oregon, 192 cases, 13.2% alc., $28

Willamette Valley, 100 cases, 13% alc., $30

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Excellent. Patrick Spangler reached into KT

Excellent. A UC-Davis professor created this variety

2006 Limited Release Petit Verdot

muscular tasting room offering, and it features black cherries, marionberry, orange zest, malted milk balls and espresso. The package is wrapped in brambleberry acidity with chocolaty tannin and finished with Turkish coffee.

from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carignane, and Trudy Kramer has established a niche and nice tradition with it. Strawberry, raspberry, Rainier cherry and cinnamon aromas include cinnamon, alder smoke and green peppercorns. It brings Montmorency cherries, cranberries and huge acidity to the table, making it suitable for babyback ribs or alder-planked salmon.

El Corazon Winery

Latah Creek Wine Cellars

Vineyard and Sundown Vineyard to create an alluring wine that starts with fruit aromas of pomegranate, Rainier cherry, cola, lime and fig, followed by savory sage and cigar leaf. Figs and pie cherries hop back on for the ride into the palate, which is laced by pomegranate acidity. Chocolaty tannins make this supremely drinkable, and Spangler builds his wines with low alcohol and high acidity for dining now and cellaring over time.

Columbia Valley, 350 cases, 14% alc., $30

Recommended. The power of PV shows in this

2006 Winemakers’ Reserve Red Petit Verdot

Spangler Vineyards

Walla Walla Valley, 75 cases, 14.1% alc., $32

Washington, 340 cases, 13.5% alc., $30

2007 The Terrace Petite Sirah

Outstanding! It’s not easy to stand out in Walla Walla — especially when your total case production is 350 — yet Spencer Sievers is emerging. Access to Seven Hills fruit helps. A wine for the intrepid, it’s akin to Cabernet Franc with savory leafiness in the aromas, backed by dried cranberry, persimmon, cinnamon, a ballpark pretzel, rose petals, black pepper and cinder. It drinks like a young Pinot Noir, boasting more cranberry, pie cherries and more leafiness within a light structure. Pair with a shoulder roast rubbed with Montreal seasoning.

Excellent. Alice Vineyards, a Taggares-owned vine-

Southern Oregon, 217 cases, 13.8% alc., $35

yard on the Wahluke Slope, gave the Conways well-hewn building blocks. Massive aromas of fresh-picked boysenberries and raspberries are joined by cherry cola, Graham cracker, wheat toast and saddle leather. There’s a nice carriage of brambleberry on the supple and plummy palate. It is easy on the oak, acidity and tannin.

Recommended. Those looking for the hammer-

Marchetti Wines

2007 Alice Vineyards Malbec

2008 Tiger’s Blood Carménère

Kestrel Vintners 2007 Winemaker’s Select Mourvèdre Yakima Valley, 275 cases, 13.7% alc., $40

Outstanding! Fruit from Olsen Vineyard’s site on the Roza in the Yakima Valley builds the backbone for the amazingly expressive wine co-fermented with Grenache (16%) and Syrah by Flint Nelson. The nose alone is sweet, spicy, savory and smoky with black cherry, plums,

head tannin structure typical of this variety may be disappointed. There’s more balance in store with mouthcoating plums and blackberries, dried fig and Graham cracker notes, while blueberries and huckleberries provide acidity.

Tagaris Winery

2008 Tempranillo

Wahluke Slope, 1,600 cases, 13.5% alc., $34

Columbia Valley, 15 cases, 13.4% alc., $28

Excellent. Tattooed vintner Frank Roth makes his

Recommended. This tiny winery near Washington’s

state Capitol offers a big oak/high-acid production focused on blackberry, strawberry, cardamom and cherry taffy with feathery tannins and a cranberry farewell.

mark with one of the Northwest’s biggest bottlings of Malbec. Ripe blackberry, cassis, Van cherry, vanilla and allspice aromas transition into a mouth-filling and balanced drink of Rainier cherries, blueberry acidity and expressive tannins.

Marshal’s Winery

Upland Estates

2008 Limberger

2007 Malbec

Columbia Valley, 100 cases, 13% alc., $20

Snipes Mountain, 74 cases, 13.6% alc., $28

Recommended. Virtually everyone in the

Excellent. This AVA near Sunnyside, is the sec-

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recent releases ond smallest in Washington, and Todd Newhouse only has winemaker Robert Smasne working with small lots. That attention shows in this wine, which features lively raspberry, pie cherry and pomegranates. There’s also chocolate and a cup of espresso on the entry, with some allspice for complexity.

Red blends

old site — a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon — is filled with notions of raspberry, light plums, blackberry with the leaf, cherry vanilla cola, chocolate and black pepper. An attractive mouth feel brings in flavors of more blackberries, boysenberries, lingonberries and plums, backed with bittersweet chocolaty tannins.

Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2008 Faye

Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

2007 Legends Four Horsemen Red Wine

Recommended. A blend of Syrah (50%),

Walla Walla Valley, 450 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Tempranillo (25%) and Malbec produces a light and zesty structure with lots of blueberry, juniper berry, pie cherry and peppery notes. Enjoy with lean meats or veal Parmesan.

Outstanding! The red sweepstakes winner at the

Capital Food & Wine Festival is so good it’s scary. Tony Lombardo’s blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Syrah (6%) and Petit Verdot features black cherries, figs, cracked green peppercorns, pencil shavings and a flirtation of milk chocolate. Blackberry and dark cherries come through smooth and balanced as tannins merely flow into a finish of cola, more pepper and star anise.

Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Nine Mile Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 1,100 cases, 14.1% alc., $22

Excellent. Justin Michaud, who has since joined Kendall Mix at Goose Ridge, crafted this blend of estate Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc. Raspberry, plum, a fresh cup of mocha, Graham cracker, tobacco and saddle leather aromas ease into flavors of sweet raspberry and Rainier cherry. Tannins akin to bittersweet chocolate chip give way to a pleasing finish of purple boysenberry and anise.

Barrister Winery NV Rough Justice Columbia Valley, 1,323 cases, 14.9% alc., $20

Excellent. When it comes to vineyard sources, it’s seems to be no-holds barred for these two members of the bar as Bacchus, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Weinbau berries were poured on the crush pad for their entry-level wine. Warm and smoky oak wraps around blackberry, black cherry and cassis aromas with root beer and leather. There’s a big burst of berries creates a thickness and leads to tight tannins. Coffee and bittersweet chocolate leave a finishing trail from the blend of Merlot (35%), Syrah (28%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon

Canyon’s Edge Winery

Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars

Cinder Wines 2007 Cab-Merlot Snake River Valley, 250 cases, 13.1% alc., $27

Excellent. Four of Idaho’s top spots for grapes —

the Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) from Fraser and Williamson backed by Merlot off Eckerts and Skyline — play roles in the delivery of boysenberry, raspberry, blueberry and moist earth tones. The juicy structure and bright tannin structure are capped by a cup of Flying M House Blend.

Glen Fiona Winery 2006 Parallel 46 Walla Walla Valley, 223 cases, 13.9% alc., $25

Yakima Valley, 343 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. Woodinville winemaker William

Excellent. A blend of the five major Bordeaux vari-

Ammons continues to elevate the program of this Walla Walla property that struck gold with Syrah more than a decade ago. He blends Syrah (72%) with Cinsault (19%) and Counoise, and the nose is rather delicate with Rainier cherries, cocoa powder and cigar leaf. Consumers are paid in double with an enjoyably austere drink of sweet cherries, red raspberry, citrus peel and bittersweet chocolate. Enjoy with a juicy and bloody steak.

eties leads with Cabernet Sauvignon (37%) and Cabernet Franc (24%) shows with cassis and cherry fruit aromas, joined by cinnamon, toffee and cedar accents. Those fruits approach the palate softly then broaden out with enjoyable juiciness and food-friendly bits of crushed oregano

Chandler Reach Vineyards 2006 Monte Regalo Yakima Valley, 650 cases, 14% alc., $22

Excellent. Len Parris sells fruit to some of the top

wineries in Washington, but obviously not all of it his leaving his winery near Red Mountain. Translated from Italian, it means "Mountain’s Gift," and the offering of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (23%) and Cabernet Franc unleashes notes of blackberry, ripe Bing cherries, cola and vanilla bean with just a tug of tannin in tow.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Limited Release Austral Wahluke Slope, 950 cases, 14.7% alc., $32

Excellent. Red winemaker Joshua Maloney branches out on his own for some of these blends designated for Ste. Michelle’s wine club. His expression with Rhône varieties Mourvedre (54%), Grenache (35%) and Syrah exudes big smoky cherry, vanilla bean, steak juice and freshly brewed mocha. Creamy cherries and juicy raspberry pour out in the mouth with shiny acidity, green tea tannins and a chocolate finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Horse Heaven Hills, 1,800 cases, 13.8% alc., $18

2006 Limited Release Boreal

Outstanding! John Haw’s winemaking talents

Columbia Valley, 700 cases, 14.4% alc., $30

helped launch Maryhill to fame, and his control of the program at this Prosser-based winery is beginning to show. This blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Syrah (15%) and Cabernet Franc is supreme and opens with blueberry soda, mincemeat pie, cherry, milk chocolate and cedar aromas. Your mouth may mistake it for chocolate raspberry ice cream with a cherry on top and a spring of mint. Structurally, everything is in its place.

Excellent. This expression by Joshua Maloney —

Capstone Cellars

2007 Limited Release CSM

Bob Bertheau’s right-hand man when it comes to red wines — is focused on Syrah co-fermented with Viognier (3%). Pure vanilla extract waves like a banner in the nose with blackberry, coffee and Chocolate Orange Sticks by The Nut Factory near Spokane. On the attack, raspberries join the blackberry with more milk chocolate and dose of cherry cough syrup.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2006 Solstice Vineyards Unicus

Wahluke Slope, 597 cases, 14.8% alc., $30

Yakima Valley, 200 cases, 13.4% alc., $27

Recommended. Not long ago, the abbreviation stood for Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.

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Here, it’s CS (51%), S (42%) and Malbec married for lots of cherries, chocolate, coffee, molasses and mint. The juicy and boldness bodes well for the cellar or backyard grilling.

2007 Gordon

2006 Sagebrush Red Wine

Excellent. Roy Bays’ work with this nearly 40-year-

WINE REVIEWS

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2004 Tradition Columbia Valley, 461 cases, 13.5% alc., $30

Excellent. That harsh winter of 2003 thinned the

crop for this family of WSU Cougars, who married Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) and Merlot (43%) with Syrah. It’s aging gracefully, giving off some bottle bouquet in terms of cassis, dried cherries, plum jam, crushed leaf and saddle leather, while the oak imparts vanilla extract and portabella mushroom. The dividend of time shows in the smooth approach to the palate with delicious black cherries, blackberries, cedar and a long finish of mocha coffee.

Hightower Cellars 2007 Murray Cuvée Columbia Valley, 522 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Excellent. The entry-level label of this small family

operation on Red Mountain is named after their yellow Lab. The mix of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (26%) and Cabernet Franc is no mongrel either with scents of Bing cherries, blueberry, Tennessee red cedar, green peppercorns and fine-grained sandpaper. It stays on point with a carton of black cherries and more blueberries. Waiting is a treat of molasses cookies in the finish. Lingering acidity should make this delicious with beef shoulder roast from the Kittitas Valley.

Hightower Cellars 2007 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 199 cases, 14.2% alc., $28

Recommended. It would be street-legal to label

this blend of Merlot (75%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, and this famed vineyard makes it easy to find accents of rich strawberry and plum. Behind are hints of coffee, tobacco, green peppercorns and Triscuit crackers. Richness and acidity in the structure gives way to a finish of steak juice and a Keebler’s Fudge Stick.

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Hightower Cellars 2006 Red Wine Red Mountain, 234 cases, 14.2% alc., $55

Excellent. Neighborhood vineyards Shaw (44%),

Kiona’s 1975 block (34%) and Artz (11) made this 10-barrel lot come to fruition for Tim and Kelly Hightower. It’s a nose-filling assortment of fruit accents of strawberry, blackberry, cherries and raspberries, backed by cedar and chocolate. Rich on the mouth is the arrival of black cherry and strawberry jam, showing lots of acidity. Smooth tannins gather in prominence, yielding in the finish to barrel notes of star anise, chocolate-covered almonds and coffee.

Hogue Cellars 2007 Genesis Meritage Columbia Valley, 25,300 cases, 14.4% alc., $16

Excellent. Effusive tones of huckleberry and blue-

berry make this first vintage of Genesis Meritage particularly fascinating and fruity throughout. Well-integrated oak and enjoyable acidity allows this to cut right through a fatty steak. And the screwcap makes the blend from Andrews, Rowell, Zephyr Ridge and Fries vineyards easy to get at.

JoieFarm 2008 PTG Okanagan Valley, 780 cases, 13% alc., $30 CDN

Recommended. Last year’s debut vintage of this

Pinot Noir and Gamay sold out, and there’s no reason why the current version shouldn’t. The tribute to a Burgundian wine known as Passetoutgrain is full of blueberry and pomegranate juice. Cloves, white pepper and tannins peek out a bit in the finish, but the acidity carries the wine and makes it highly food friendly. Enjoy with roasted quail in a reduction sauce.

of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (36%), Malbec (5%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot. Nearly two years of French oak develops the nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry, allspice, toasted marshmallow and tobacco. Boldness builds on the palate that opens with black cherry, juicy blackberry and raspberry fruit leather. Tannins impart nice grip and team well with coffee and blueberry in the finish.

Red Sky Winery 2006 Sunrise Washington, 98 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Excellent. This vintage marked the beginning of

Carol Parsons as head winemaker at this female-operated winery in Woodinville. Impeccable fruit sources — Conner Lee, Pepper Bridge and Chelle den Pleasant — create the formula of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%) and Merlot. Dense black cherries, rhubarb compote, toasted coconut, vanilla bean and bittersweet chocolate tannins create enjoyment. And the screwcap makes for a sleek package.

RoxyAnn Winery 2007 Claret Rogue Valley, 2,851 cases, 14.6% alc., $28

Outstanding! Devout cyclist/winemaker Gus Janeway got this rolling before leaving to focus on his own winery, and it never spins out of the control. Plums, pomegranate, dusty blueberry and cherry aromas include chocolate, vanilla bean and cedar. What follows is a velvet glove with more blue fruit and plums. Its dense, rich and round, yet a lingering grip of tannin merely adds life to this drink that virtually flawless.

Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 Archimage Walla Walla Valley, 295 cases, 14.5% alc., $40

Robert Karl Cellars

Excellent. Trey Busch continues to grow his proj-

2007 Claret

ect in Walla Walla with proprietary blends, including his tribute to St. Emillion in Bordeaux with this blend of Merlot (54%) and Cabernet Franc (46%). There’s some influence of oak with hints of coffee, but it doesn’t slow down the aromas of boysenberry, blueberry, pomegranate, cherry and chalk. Blueberry and pie cherry tartness shines nicely above the tannins, and chocolaty oak accents create a lingering finish.

Horse Heaven Hills, 1,600 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Excellent. One of the most consistent and classic

wines in the Northwest each year is Dr. Joe Gunselman’s affordable assemblage. Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (20%) Cabernet Franc (14%), Petit Verdot (14%) and Malbec impart black cherries and smoky coffee, cedar and bittersweet chocolate. It’s an easy drinker with those cherries and pomegranate, which gives is lots of acidity. The wealth of oak and finegrained tannins lends it opulence.

Sleight of Hand Cellars 2007 Illusionist Columbia Valley, 295 cases, 14.1% alc., $40

Patterson Cellars NV WoodsLake Due Anni Washington, 1,100 cases, 14.9% alc., $17

Recommended. This second label for Patterson

Cellars in Woodinville, Due Anni means “two years” in Italian, a reference to the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah from the 2007 and 2008 vintages. Cherries, currants and raspberry juice up the structure of a broadly shouldered wine. Duck confit or pork ribs would be make good company.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2006 Reserve Red Wine Walla Walla Valley, 340 cases, 14.1% alc., $75

Excellent. Arguably the assertive wine in their

respected lineup, it doesn’t disappoint in the blend

Excellent. Trey Busch continues to show consis-

tent excellence at producing high-acid blends, and this mélange is Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Petit Verdot (20%), Malbec (16%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot (5%) with Syrah filling in the gap. Boysenberry, cassis and plums stay smooth and well ahead of the French oak.

mon toast and coffee accents. There’s a rich entry with black fruit, yielding to marionberry acidity and an Aussie black licorice finish. The screwcap makes it easy to get at, too.

Spangler Vineyards 2007 Claret Southern Oregon, 294 cases, 13.7% alc., $28

Excellent. Again, Patrick Spangler creates wines for his enjoyment, which means they will be welcome at the dinner table and built for the long haul. His blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%), Cabernet Franc (34%), Merlot (7%) and Malbec allows the Cab Franc to emerge with its hightoned red fruit and bay leaf accents. Cassis and blackberry create finesse on the midpalate, and fine-grained tannins fill out the frame.

SuLei Cellars 2007 Beet Red Walla Walla Valley, 155 cases, 14.1% alc., $19

Recommended. Tanya Woodley’s winery is on

Beet Road, hence the name for this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (67%) and Syrah. Blackberry, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, green peppercorns and assertive tannins will fit nicely alongside a juicy buffalo burger. And those who buy the wine will be contributing to the Stan N. Clarke Memorial Scholarship Fund at Walla Walla Community College.

Tagaris Winery 2006 BoarDoe Wahluke Slope, 1,600 cases, 14% alc., $34

Recommended. Alice Vineyard contributes four

Bordeaux varieties for that blend that ranges in straightforward notes of cherry, raspberry, boysenberry jam, chocolate and fresh-picked green bean. Suitable pairings for this would include wild boar or venison.

Tagaris Winery 2006 Red Roan Wahluke Slope, 1,600 cases, 14% alc., $34

Excellent. Syrah (79%) leads its Rhône relatives Mourvèdre (11%) and Counoise into this mix that produces spicy aromas of cinnamon, green peppercorn, cocoa and coffee beans to go with black cherry and cigar leaf. Pomegranate charges into the palate with trailing support from more cherries, sweetened plums and blackberry.

Tefft Cellars NV Villa Toscana Rattlesnake Hills, 154 cases, 12.5% alc., $19

Excellent. It’s made to emulate a Super Tuscan by

blending Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Indeed, the drink is a quaffer with Rainier cherry, raspberry, citrus and jasmine tea.

Wedge Mountain Winery

Sleight of Hand Cellars

2007 Trois Chevaux Rouges

2007 Spellbinder

Columbia Valley, 98 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Columbia Valley, 988 cases, 14.3% alc., $19

Excellent. Wenatchee Valley winemaker Charlie

Excellent. The entry-level wine at this eclectic

McKee names his blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc for three horses that from afar appear to be red. He crafted this in a Bordeaux style with tones of cassis, pie cherry and cranberries, backed by bay leaves, saddle leather and drip coffee. It is constructed to accent acidity rather than tannin.

winery turns Cabernet Franc (42%), Cabernet Sauvignon (21%), Syrah (14%), Merlot (12%) and Sangiovese into another versatile food wine. Strawberry fruit leather, dark cherries, blackberry and boysenberry notes make for a sense of being at the breakfast table with cinna-

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Whites Chardonnay

Kestrel Vintners 2008 Falcon Series Estate Old Vine Chardonnay

WINE REVIEWS

creamy Chardonnay, which closes with butterscotch and banana.

Yakima Valley, 886 cases, 13% alc., $20

Riesling

Recommended. Abundant oak and orchard fruit

plays out in delicious form with sensations of mom’s baked apple pie, only there’s surprising lemony crispness in the finish.

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Recommended. Its style may barrel some over,

Mission Hill Family Estate

but there’s a fair amount of finesse inside to appreciate. Inviting oak aromas include dried pineapple, orange, apricot, green apple and banana, and there’s delicious and easy integration of the fruit, wood and acid.

2007 Reserve Chardonnay

Excellent. Green apple, racy lemon zest, diesel notes and the drop amount of residual sugar (0.8%) give this a Germanic feel and should pair nicely with ahi tuna or authentic Mexican food.

Barnard Griffin 2008 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 152 cases, 13.2% alc., $20

Cinder Wines 2008 Chardonnay Snake River Valley, 250 cases, 13.9% alc., $17

Excellent. Melanie Krause strives for balance of

fruit, oak and acidity, and she’s on the beam with this bottling that starts with tropical tones as well as apples, apricot, orchard blossom and light oak. A sweet entry awaits with pineapple and creamy banana. Acidity comes up quickly, catches some butterscotch and lingers with toast, apple and citrus pith in the finish. Enjoy with pumpkin bisque.

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 Chardonnay Washington, 397 cases, 14.3% alc., $20

Recommended. The presence of new French oak

doesn’t rob the crop of nectarine, Granny Smith apples, lime and dried apricot in the nose, while adding Corn Pops and vanilla. Butterscotch shows up on the entry to the palate but gives way to flavors of Apple Crisp and kumquat.

Okanagan Valley, 2,800 cases, 13.5% alc., $19 CDN

Outstanding! Vines in the southern end of the

Okanagan Valley and a blend of new American and French oak gave John Simes and his team the palette for a masterpiece. Hints of lovely spring orchard blossoms, pear and apple gain fascinating complexity from marshmallow, butterscotch and fennel. Golden Mile pears and nectarines push their way forward onto the fleshy palate with creamy butterscotch in the middle and a burst of lemon crispness in the finish.

Patterson Cellars 2009 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 161 cases, 14.1% alc., $21

Excellent. Grapes next to the Gorge at George made a brief appearance in French oak, but it was long enough to make for a well-managed Chardonnay that can please both sides of the aisle. Pears, starfruit and apples sidle up to butterscotch aromas and some underlying minerality. Toasty tropical fruit flavors turn into Anjou pear on the rich midpalate, followed by a crisp finish.

Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Reserve Chardonnay

2008 Old Vines Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 205 cases, 14.1% alc., $30

Recommended. Walla Walla’s Wisconsin boys

tapped into Kestrel View’s 1972 plantings and developed an oak lover’s Chard. Aromas range from Bananas Foster to marzipan and candy corn with some apple and Asian pear. That orchard fruit is more apparent on the palate, building with pineapple and unsulfured apricots, Grapefruit, juice and all, shows at the end.

Excellent. Luisa Ponzi’s reserve style shows skill-

ful restraint with oak, allowing estate vineyards Aurora and Dion to express themselves. Whiffs of nectarine, grapefruit, cinnamon, clove, apple blossom, lemon pepper and lima bean are among the many descriptors. The palate plays out with pear and Golden Delicious apples, and there’s a hint of a sweet biscuit before nice crispness and lemongrass take over.

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards

Dundee Hills, 417 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

2008 Reserve Chardonnay

Excellent. Melissa Burr’s deployment of screwcap signals a fresh and fruit-forward approach to Chardonnay, and there’s a harvest of apples and pears from the “Junior Vines” on this eco-driven estate. Fresh grapefruit, lemon and kumquat flavors provide crispness and lengthy tartness.

Recommended. Organically farmed fruit under-

goes an extensive barrel program of new French and American oak. The top 10 of 16 barrels made it into this stylistic release that exudes baked pear, canned corn, caramel and heavy toast notes. Its structure is rich and creamy with a lemony finish.

Stoller Vineyards 2007 SV Estate Chardonnay Dundee Hills, 623 cases, 13.7% alc., $28

Hogue Cellars

Recommended. Fruit from “Senior Vines” in a chal-

2008 Genesis Chardonnay

lenging vintage receives a cork closure and French oak, which remains in the background of Asian pear, melon and steely aromas. The barrel looms large inside, where sweet tropical fruit flavors vie with butterscotch.

Columbia Valley, 15,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $16

Excellent. For those looking for creaminess but

no oak in their Chardonnay, here’s one to seek. Gala apple, lemon zest and the outer cut of a pineapple stand out in the aromas, backed by butterscotch and vanilla. Cream arrives on the palate with more apple and ripe pineapple. A burst of orange in the finish provides rewarding acidity. Suggested fare includes Caesar salad and fish tacos. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Limited Release Waussie Riesling Columbia Valley, 650 cases, 13% alc., $17

Excellent. White winemaker Wendy Stuckey

moved to Washington from Australia in 2007, and this is her contribution to the “Little Guys” project. The aromas spotlight apples, pear, blood orange, lemon, slate and a hint of green banana. It’s slightly spritzy on the palate with peaches and pears, backed by blood orange acidity. At 0.7% residual sugar, it’s the driest of any Riesling in the company’s portfolio. Heck, they even let her put it under screwcap.

Kettle Valley Winery 2008 Riesling Okanagan Valley, 200 cases, 9.8% alc., $26 CDN

Recommended. Harvest of this fruit ended Nov. 1, and the results are hints of dried apricots, peaches, Golden Delicious apple, jasmine, a piece of Bit o Honey and late minerality. It’s remarkably low in alcohol and just a touch off-dry.

2009 Estate Riesling Snake River Valley, 75 cases, 12.8% alc., $20

Recommended. Green apple, peaches and apri-

cots take center stage, but there’s support from mango and lemony acidity.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Dry Riesling Chelan County, 300 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Recommended. Estate fruit combines with some

Stoller Vineyards 2009 JV Estate Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 13.9% alc., $23

Okanagan Valley, 1,206 cases, 13.8% alc., $18 CDN

Vale Wine Co.

Willamette Valley, 825 cases, 14% alc., $30

Dusted Valley Vintners

2008 Riesling

Vale Wine Co.

across the lake at Tsillan Cellars to create an array of descriptors that include dried mango, pear, lemon and jasmine. Larry Lehmbecker projects that this terroir-driven wine will improve in the next 2-3 years.

Wines of Substance 2008 Re Riesling Washington, 13.5% alc., $20

Outstanding! Aromas produced by this young label in Walla Walla run the gamut of kiwi, center cut of the pineapple, jasmine, lime peel, celery stalk and burnt sugar. There’s more sweet pineapple and mango on the entry, but Granny Smith apple and grapefruit in the midpalate give it the sense of exploding acidity. A piece of butterscotch in the finish makes it a very complex Riesling. Enjoy with white fish or shellfish.

Pinot Gris

2009 Chardonnay

Anne Amie Vineyards

Snake River Valley, 112 cases, 13.8% alc., $16

2009 Pinot Gris

Recommended. Lemon, sandalwood, Italian herbs

Willamette Valley, 3,400 cases, 13.5% alc., $19

and sweet oak flash in and out of this slightly

Recommended. A refreshing absence of oak allows

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for aromatics of pineapple, cinnamon-sugared apple, quinine and fresh-picked cotton. On the supple palate, think of biting into lemon meringue pie, followed by more apple and dried pineapple.

CedarCreek Estate Winery 2009 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 4,184 cases, 14.1% alc., $18 CDN

Recommended. Pear, starfruit, a hint of minerality

and grapefruit are presented in a dry style with pleasant tartness and mouthwatering acidity.

assumed command of the winemaking for Willamette Farms of Oregon’s winery, and he’s made an immediate impact. A boost of Riesling (3%) allowed him to develop scents of freshpicked Bartlett pear, Honeycrisp apple, cotton candy, lemon and some minerality. it’s an elegant, simple and well-balanced drink of Bosc pear, apples, kiwi fruit, tangerine and a squirt of lime.

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Pinot Gris Chelan County, 220 cases, 13% alc., $20

King Estate

Excellent. Larry Lehmbecker straddles the oaky and

2008 Domaine Pinot Gris

fruit-forward styles with this blend of Michaela’s Vineyard and Fallon Vineyard. On the nose, there’s clementine, kiwi, lemon peel, jasmine, along with the oak influences of angel food cake and butterscotch pudding. It’s clean and austere drink of Asian pear, unsweetened lemon, some yeastiness and a flake of purple SweeTart candy.

Oregon, 3,900 cases, 13 alc.%, $25

Excellent. Purity of organic fruit allows this to

shine from the start to finish with pineapple, starfruit, dried apricot and orange oil with some candy corn, minerality and celery in the background. Pleasing weight earns this a spot before or during the meal.

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

2009 Pinot Gris

Amavi Cellars

Okanagan Valley, 1,100 cases, 13.5% alc., $18 CDN

2008 Semillon

Recommended. The Patio at Lake Breeze serves its

Walla Walla Valley, 499 cases, 13.9% alc. $20

food with these wines while you overlook Okanagan Lake. Bartlett pear and apricot aromas are joined by lots of grapefruit, melon and lingering starfruit. See if the seared scallops are in.

Excellent. Jean François-Pellet crafted a deli-

Ponzi Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 14,000 cases, 13.6% alc., $17

Excellent. Fanfare for their handling of Pinot Gris

has grown so since their first plantings of the variety in 1978 that 12 vineyards were cast into the production. Luisa Ponzi links this vintage to those in 2002 and 2006 for the acidity created. Aromas feature whiffs of grapefruit, lemon/lime, apple, gooseberry, fresh-sliced strawberries and wet stone. Honeydew melon and sugared lime make it delicately sweet on the palate, backed by citrusy acidity. Enjoy with grilled chicken, poached fish or a cheese plate.

cious and elegant drink to help christen the deck of their new tasting facility on Pepper Bridge Road. There’s a sense of pear pie on a Graham cracker crust and brown sugar in the nose, a gift of French oak treatment, along with tangerine and pineapple. Pear and pineapple make their way on the viscous entry to the mouth, where the tartness of Sauvignon Blanc (11%) and late minerality add complexity.

Challenger Ridge Vineyard and Winery

Recommended. There’s no shortage of citrusy and

mouthwatering acidity, backed by underlying flintiness, freshly laundered linen, pillow mints and a scoop of lemon sorbet.

Viognier Abacela 2009 Estate Viognier Umpqua Valley, 295 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Excellent. One of the first grapes to come off the

Fault Line Vineyards reaps quick rewards. Orange Creamsicle, dusty apple, orchard blossom and lots of river rock notes fill the nose. Huge complexity awaits the drinker with Asian pear, jasmine and lemon curd flavors. For this variety, there’s a remarkable amount of acidity and some orange pith bitterness in the finish. Thankfully, its screwcap should hold this still for a couple of years.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2009 Crawford Viognier Yakima Valley, 13.5% alc., $20

Excellent. Inviting notes of lychee, orange

Creamsicle and talcum powder turn very complex in the mouth with a tropical cocktail feel. Sweet orange flavors, light cream and late citrus make this quite a quaffer. 2009 Viognier

Recommended. Barrel fermenting and some surlie

Snake River Valley, 400 cases, 14.1% alc., $17

aging of this lot from Prosser’s Stepping P Vineyards exudes tropical tones of pineapple and citrus fruit with lemongrass, subtle oak and pleasing weight in the mouth.

Outstanding! It’s no surprise this took Best Idaho

2009 Falcon Series Old Vine Sauvignon Blanc

Rogue Valley, 3,545 cases, 13.9% alc., $17

Columbia Valley, 580 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Recommended. This bottling pays the bills at this

Recommended. A theme of stone fruit, jasmine,

expanding winery in Medford, Ore. Unlike many in the Willamette Valley, it’s a fruit-forward Pinot Gris with lots of dusty pear, starfruit, jicama, apple and citrusy aromas and flavors that are capped by sweetened lemon juice.

starfruit and minerality takes a very steely approach, courtesy of the Smith-Cerne Vineyard near The Dalles, Ore. A squeeze of lime in the midpalate provides ample acidity.

Kettle Valley Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Reserve Pinot Gris

British Columbia, 650 cases, 13.5% alc., $24 CDN

Rogue Valley, 255 cases, 14% alc., $20

Excellent. Our 2009 B.C. Winery of the Year does-

Recommended. A blend of Pleasant View and

n’t restrict itself to Okanagan Valley fruit as the bulk of these grapes hail from the Secord Vineyard in the Silmilkameen Valley. Inviting aromas include pineapple, pear, apple blossoms and air-popped popcorn. Its clean and tasty flavor profile features oranges with Golden Delicious apple, subtle acidity and a touch of lime peel.

Lake Breeze Vineyards 2009 Seven Poplars Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Pinot Gris

Okanagan Valley, 400 cases, 13.7% alc., $22

Willamette Valley, 91 cases, 12.9% alc., $18

Recommended. This Naramata Bench winery

Outstanding! Jason Silva of Arcane Cellars

denotes this as its top tier and drops 30% of the

Chelan County, 190 cases, 13.6% alc., $20

Cinder Wines

Kestrel Vintners

VX Vercingetorix Vineyard

2008 Lehm Sauvignon Blanc

Yakima Valley, 132 cases, 13.7% alc., $18

2008 Pinot Gris

Thirkel vineyards, the surlie aging in French oak shows with fresh popcorn in the aromas, backed by pear, lemon pepper, freshly sliced zucchini and river rock. McIntosh apple, creamy lemon, honey nougat and pear flavors bring easy enjoyment, ushered along by bold acidity that carries into canned corn notes.

Vin du Lac of Chelan

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

RoxyAnn Winery

fruit in barrel fermentation. Gooseberry, tomcat, lemongrass, fresh-cut celery and green apple accents provide lingering tartness and mild acidity.

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Wine at the Northwest Wine Summit. Fascinating aromas start with pineapple upside down cake, blood orange, cottage cheese, alder smoke and crème brûlée. There’s tremendous presence in the mouth with tasty pineapple and apricot. Clove and fresh-sliced cucumber show the midpalate, then it’s finished with a slice of Key Lime pie, right down to the slices of the peel and a touch of balancing bitterness in the back.

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 L’Artiste Viognier Washington, 195 cases, 14.1% alc., $24

Excellent. Four vineyards in four appellations in

Washington — Lonesome Springs, McKinley Springs, Milbrandt’s Clifton and Stillwater Creek — each contribute 25% of the fruit for this graceful effort from our reigning Idaho Winery of the Year. Sliced lemon, apple blossoms, ginger, fresh linen and pencil lead begin to describe the aromas. It’s nicely weighted on the palate with lemon cream and coconut, whisked along by grapefruity acidity.

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 Viognier Washington, 693 cases, 14.2% alc., $20

Recommended. While it shares the same vineyard

sources as the L’Artiste, this bottling shows more influence of oak and surlie aging with hints of tropical fruit, butterscotch and alder W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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smoke. Racy acidity, creamy mango and citrus pith accents should lend this to herb-rubbed chicken or a bowl of Vietnamese pho.

crisp aromas and flavors make for a good drink, which gains favor from sliced apricots and lemony acidity. Enjoy with chicken salad.

to keep it going and growing.

Dusted Valley Vintners

Walter Dacon Wines

Alexandria Nicole Cellars

2008 Viognier

Yakima Valley, 350 cases, 13.9% alc., $26

Yakima Valley, 327 cases, 14.8% alc., $22

2009 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Shepherds Mark White Wine

Excellent. The quest for acid-laced whites leads

Recommended. This scaling of Elephant Mountain

Horse Heaven Hills, 471 cases, 13.7% alc., $20

in-laws Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson into Kestrel View and Lonesome Spring Ranch for a full-on Viognier that speaks volumes. It whispers mango, lemon and a twist of lime before delivering quenching blasts of pear, grapefruit and Key Lime. Drink a glass of this as a refreshing alternative to gin and tonic.

Vineyard attains dusty orchard fruit, mango and jasmine for a ride that’s steely, then sweet with some orange bitters in the finish.

Excellent. Jarrod Boyle’s annual expression with

Fraser Vineyard 2009 Viognier Snake River Valley, 180 cases, 14% alc., $17

Excellent. Bill Fraser’s vineyard at 2,700 feet ele-

vation produced notes of apricots, Orange Julius and lemongrass in a flavorful fashion. His use of oak creates a sense of silkiness on the midpalate, but grapefruit acidity and pith wring out that creaminess.

Hogue Cellars 2008 Genesis Viognier Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, 14.7% alc., $16

Excellent. Lead winemaker Co Dinn treats this

Viognier to some oak, unlike the Genesis Chardonnay. What that does is create a sense of baked Key Lime pie in the nose and a lemon meringue pie on the palate. There’s a skill to the balance among acidity, creaminess and oak

Rio Vista Wines 2009 Antoine Creek Vineyards Viognier Columbia Valley, 66 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Recommended. John Little’s winery is a short boat

ride downstream from Wells Dam on the Columbia River, and Ed Haskell’s vineyard is nearby. The collaboration features citrus fruit flavors, some midpalate creaminess then a return of citrus in the finish.

RoxyAnn Winery 2008 Viognier Rogue Valley, 1,091 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Other whites Abacela 2009 Estate Albariño

Anne Amie Vineyards

Outstanding! Earl Jones continues to commit

2009 Cuvée Amrita

more acreage to this Iberian variety, and his team delivers a big victory. By eschewing oak, winemaker Andrew Wenzl allows for a crosscurrent of fruit to gush, and the amazingly complex aroma profile includes quince, dusty apple, Circus Peanut candy, orange and pineapple. Of course the annual hallmark of this wine is its bracing acidity and flaky minerality on the entry. And yet there’s peach, pineapple, apple and French vanilla flavors and a remarkable lemon cream in the farewell.

Outstanding! A delicious and fascinating deck wine, its blend of Chardonnay (44%), MüllerThurgau (29%), Viognier (15%) and Pinot Gris comes via the estate Twelve Oaks and Chateau LeBeau in Sherwood, Ore. Dusty apple, jasmine, lemon/lime, vanilla and honeysuckle aromas are revived on the palate. Flavors are like a box of Froot Loops with sprightly acidity that slices through with lingering lime and minerality

Anne Amie Vineyards

2008 No. 6 White Washington, 235 cases, 13.1% alc., $16

Excellent. Barrel Room No. 6, Kimber Gates’

Recommended. Scharf Vineyard in Polk County

tasting facility a short walk from the famed North Idaho resort, reopened this summer, and here’s a delicious wine for a warm day. The blend of Viognier (53%), Semillon (36%) and Riesling offers up aromas of Juicy Fruit gum and a banana milk shake along with tangerine and some oak toast. On the palate is a delicious and delicate presentation of Mandarin orange, pears, apple, grapefruit and strawberry.

delivered all the fruit for this oak-influenced drink with aromas that touch on starfruit, gooseberry, grapefruit, apple, cola nut, filberts, vanilla, flannel and sandpaper. Similar tartness shows with grapefruit and Golden Delicious apple flavors, but there’s complexity with vanilla cream and crème brulee in the finish. Enjoy with rotisserie chicken.

CedarCreek Estate Winery 2009 Ehrenfelser

Rio Vista Wines

Okanagan Valley, 1,481 cases, 13.8% alc., $18 CDN

2009 Estate Sunset on the River

Recommended. A cross of Riesling and Silvaner, it

Columbia Valley, 98 cases, 12.5% alc., $20

offers notes of Granny Smith apple, lychee nut and lime in a dry style with delicate acidity.

Recommended. A blend of Pinot Gris and

2009 Gewürztraminer

Sleight of Hand Cellars

Excellent. Longtime winemaker Tom DiBello left

2008 The Magician

this hugely aromatic Gewürz as a legacy. It provides scents of yellow grapefruit, gooseberry and lychee, then delivers a steady stream of grapefruit and tangerine to the tongue. Its residual sugar is 0.9%.

Willamette Valley Vineyards

Excellent. There’s a balance of fruit and oak in the

2008 Gewürztraminer

aromas with pineapple, apricot, mango, oranges and light toast. Oranges and bananas on the creamy palate make it a delicious drink, while ample acidity balances the residual sugar (1.2%). Any pretense is removed because the Spanglers put this in the alternative Zork closure.

Willamette Valley, 89 cases, 13% alc., $18

Rattlesnake Hills, 110 cases, 13% alc., $18

Recommended. Orange Creamsicle and apple W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Gewurztraminer, it’s a serving of apricot, freshcut Golden Delicious apples and blood orange in an off-dry delivery at 1.6% residual sugar.

Okanagan Valley, 2,842 cases, 13.5% alc., $18 CDN

Southern Oregon, 215 cases, 13.2% alc., $20

2009 Viognier

Coeur d’Alene Cellars

Willamette Valley, 500 cases, 13.6% alc., $20

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Tefft Cellars

Willamette Valley, 1,050 cases, 13.4% alc., $16

2008 Pinot Blanc

excel with Rhône varieties. Huge tropical fruit aromas grab some hints of Muscat, starfruit, Uncola and lemon Starburst candy. Pears and pineapple fill the surprising dry palate, joined by vanilla creaminess and topped with a slice of maraschino cherry. 2009 Viognier

Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier ranks as a Northwest trendsetter for white Rhône blends. Tangerine, orange oil, fresh fig and lavender aromas also come through to the sweet entry on the palate. Pear butter and vanilla cream add richness, and there’s acidity to balance it.

Umpqua Valley, 1,148 cases, 13.6% alc., $18

Excellent. This portion of Oregon continues to

Spangler Vineyards

White blends

Outstanding! If you smell grapefruit, then you’re likely on the trail of Gewürztraminer, and such is the harbinger of this delightful bottling by Forrest Klaffke. The drink zeroes in on lightly sugared yellow grapefruit and succulent gooseberry and orange acidity for complexity and crispness, and sweetness — just 0.6% — isn’t an issue. Tualatin Estate’s plantings include six acres of Gewürz, but this marked the first bottling since 2003. A sip of this prompts requests

Columbia Valley, 495 cases, 12.7% alc., $17

Excellent. When Trey Busch launched his small

winery in Walla Walla, he began by bottling this in screwcap. That makes it easy to get at this easy-to-like blend of Gewürztraminer (85%) and Riesling. Aromas of pears, apple, honeysuckle, lemon curd and coconut milk send the mind spinning. There’s a continuation of that orchard fruit, deliciously balanced with lingering grapefruit and lemon acidity, finished dry (0.8% residual sugar) with citrus pith.

Stag’s Hollow Winery 2008 Viognier-Marsanne Okanagan Valley, 45 cases, 13.8% alc., $25 CDN

Excellent. Klin House Vineyard in nearby Penticton, B.C., gave Dwight Sick what he needed for a delicious drink that showcases Viognier (83%) but not too much of the new French oak

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employed. Pink grapefruit, orange Creamsicle, fresh linen, gooseberry and chalkboard dust fill the nose. It’s unsweetened pink grapefruit on the entry, a bit of orange oil and honey wax in the midpalate, then spritzy acidity from tangerine and lime brighten the backend.

from Milbrandt Vineyards to make it a pink. Aromas include strawberry, rhubarb, blueberry and slight whiff of the white Bordeaux variety’s telltale “tomcat.” Blueberry and strawberry return in the flavors, joined by strawberry. There’s a tich of sweetness, but the acidity holds it up as its finished with a hint of Red Delicious apple.

Fruit wines Heymann Whinery NV Cranberry Wine Washington, 412 cases, 12% alc., $14

Abacela

2009 Rosato Pinot Noir Rosé

2009 Estate Grenache Rosé

Willamette Valley, 1,033 cases, 13.3% alc., $17

Umpqua Valley, 289 cases, 13.2% alc., $14

Recommended. Its shade of salmon comes with

Excellent. Particular blocks are targeted for this

dried strawberry, cherry, watermelon and apricot notes delivered inside cleansing acidity. Cherry skin provides just a bit of tannin.

Outstanding! Three years in a row Centralia, Wash., vintner Bob Heymann has received our top rating for this delicious fruit wine. Impeccable color gets your juice flowing. Next come succulent aromas of ripe strawberry and then deep cranberry. Sweet berries leap out of the glass, balanced by Sauvignon Blanc-ish acidity. Terrific tartness completes this dangerous package for adult and conjures up thoughts of Thanksgiving turkey.

Tefft Cellars

Hoodsport Winery

Rosés

pink and perfumy sipper that opens with pomegranate, Rainier cherry, persimmon, cinnamon and vanilla aromas. Boysenberries and citrus spill onto the palate with bright acidity and a resumption of the pomegranate and cherry. There’s no show of tannin, making this quite quaffable, with a bite of Cameo apple in the finish.

Anne Amie Vineyards 2009 Cuvée A Midnight Saignée Rosé of Pinot Noir

Ponzi Vineyards

2009 Rosato d’Sangiovese

Washington, 600 cases, 12% alc., $13

Recommended. A delicious adult version of Hawaiian Punch, it’s loaded with strawberry, sweet cherry and grapefruit notes. At 2.5% residual sugar, it’s made for serving cold and quaffing.

Recommended. One of the Northwest’s most pop-

Willamette Valley, 500 cases, 13.2% alc., $15

Recommended. While not vibrant on appearance,

it’s filled with strawberry and tangerine tones and skillfully balances the sweetness (0.57% residual sugar). The finish is extended with raspberries and Hermiston watermelon. Enjoy with a cheese and fruit plate.

Cinder Wines 2009 Rosé Table Wine Snake River Valley, 180 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

Vin du Lac of Chelan 2008 Lehm Michaela’s Vineyard Rosé of Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 87 cases, 12.8% alc., $15

Excellent. Larry Lehmbecker developed an ideal

ingredient for his café with this dry, barrel-aged pink. Showy aromas include strawberry, peach, president plum and hydrangea blossom. There’s a depth of fruit and good mouth feel in the medium body with strawberry, apricot and pineapple, pushed through by strong acidity.

Recommended. This rosé of Syrah is presented

dry and features strawberry jam, cranberry, plums, watermelon, nectarine, a piece of peppermint and lots of acidity. Enjoy with ceviche.

Kestrel Vintners 2009 Falcon Series Rosé Yakima Valley, 580 cases, 13.9% alc., $12

Recommended. A wide-ranging blend of

Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo looks lovely and comes off a bit shy in the nose. When it comes to the drink, it’s easy to like with a fuller expression of plums, Hermiston watermelon, huckleberry and dried strawberry. And at less than 1% residual sugar, it’s not too clingy.

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese Columbia Valley, 450 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Excellent. Typically, pinks don’t show this well at

this age. Here’s an exception from Scott Williams. Aromas are reminiscent of strawberry/rhubarb jam, sugared ruby red grapefruit, a candied apple and cherry Jolly Rancher candy. The delicious and lightly structured drink is of fruit punch and a watermelon Jolly Rancher. While off-dry, serve cold and with a ham sandwich or convert a white Zin lover.

Lone Canary Winery 2007 Cuvee Rosé Columbia Valley, 256 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

Recommended. Mike Scott left this Spokane win-

ery last year, and his work with Sauvignon Blanc ranked among the most diverse in the Northwest. Here, all it took was 3% of Barbera

NV Raspberry Wine

Rattlesnake Hills, 114 cases, 12% alc., $22

Sparkling wine Kramer Vineyards NV Semi-Sparkling Müller-Thurgau Oregon, 65 cases, 10.5% alc., $15

Excellent. The Kramers make several batches of

this each year, carbonating each one in highpressure tanks for a week at a time. Those bubbles burst with lychee, peaches, apricot, mango grapefruit and a flake of minerality. There’s a delicious orchard fruit/Uncola approach to the flavors, only the light frothiness makes this adult drink easier to manage. It’s nicely balance with just a drop of sweetness (1.5%).

Kramer Vineyards NV Semi-Sparkling Pinot Gris Oregon, 130 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Recommended. It’s processed in the same man-

ner as the Müller-Thurgau, only Pinot Gris does not offer the aromatics or tropicality. Instead, this features starfruit, Asian pear, tangerine and lemon with a hint of bread yeast. And the residual sugar (0.75%) is half that of the M-T.

Tualatin Estate 2009 Semi-Sparkling Muscat Frizzante Willamette Valley, 1,964 cases, 6.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Evaluating this release each year comes with perhaps the biggest challenge a wine judge faces — how do you avoid swallowing? The folks at Willamette Valley Vineyards craft this in such a fun style, it’s nearly impossible not to come back for a satisfying sip. Huge tropical notes include lychee and honeysuckle, joined by tangerine, apricot and pear juice. That itsy bit of fizz keeps it interesting time and again.

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ular fruit wines stays true to form with raspberry and vanilla cream textures. It’s smooth and balanced, showing less sweetness than in years past, bringing green tea tannin in the finish. Enjoy chilled on the patio or served with a fresh-baked brownie.

Dessert wines Eaton Hill Winery 2003 Orange Muscat Yakima Valley, 125 cases, 15% alc., $24

Outstanding! A fascinating little drink, it’s showing some age with caramel and almond tones, and there a bit of heat. Yet the product of Emery & Sons and Rogers vineyards remains true to the variety with tones of orange, apricot and spice character. The drink is smooth, not overly sweet at 4% residual sugar and succulent because of its bright acidity.

EdenVale Winery 2003 Late Harvest Viognier Rogue Valley, 403 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Excellent. Few folks in the Northwest make dessert from this white Rhône variety, and this is likely one of the first efforts. Seven years hence, it doesn’t appear to be slowing down. Rich aromas remain captured, including pineapple butterscotch, glacéed apricot, honey and hazelnut. Its flavor profile is a menu of desserts — crème brûlée, orange sherbet, pineapple upside-down cake, butterscotch and honey. Only in the finish of caramel does the alcohol and age show.

Horizon’s Edge Winery 2007 Late Harvest Muscat Canelli Rattlesnake Hills, 210 cases, 13.2% alc., $13

Excellent. Widely believed to be the world’s old-

est variety, David Padgett’s bottling of estate fruit yields delicate notes of tangerine, grapefruit, honeysuckle and sugar cane with a creamy mouth feel and late acidity to balance the residual sugar (10%).

Maison de Padgett Winery 2008 Funky Monkey Winter Harvest Rattlesnake Hills, 210 cases, 12.2% alc., $18

Excellent. Some of the Northwest’s best dry rosés are made with Sangiovese, but using the Italian grape for dessert is virtually unheard of. In the hands of David Padgett, though, all that’s funky W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Anne Amie Vineyards 2009 Cuvee A Estate Muller-Thürgau Willamette Valley, 950 cases, 13% alc., $14

Outstanding! A legacy of its days at Chateau

Benoit, these now 30-year-old vines still create arguably the Northwest’s finest Müller-Thurgau. The fresh and inviting nose is loaded with lime, lychee nut, yellow grapefruit, fresh-squeezed orange juice and lilacs. Its clean, linear and fruit-forward approach continues, joined by honeydew melon and lip-smacking kumquat, about it is the moniker. There’s a vibrant reddish-pink to the color while tantalizing strawberry, boysenberry, cherry and cranberry aromas get pushed by fragrant Muscat Canelli (20%). It’s a delicious drink of cherries and cranberries that carries a residual sugar of 14%.

Patterson Cellars 2009 Late Harvest Roussanne Columbia Valley, 137 cases, 11.5% alc., $22

Excellent. A mid-November harvest off Willard

Farms near Prosser, Wash., three months of used French oak and Sauterne yeast gave John Patterson the tools for a fascinating dessert. There’s a kaleidoscope of descriptors including apricot preserves, baked pear, grilled pineapple, some brown toast, butterscotch and honey. Orange zest acidity and orange marmalade bitterness keep the residual sugar (18%) in balance. Try serving this with peach cobbler.

Ste. Chapelle 2008 Late Harvest Cabernet Franc Snake River Valley, 550 cases, 9% alc., $10

Recommended. Late harvest can come early in

Idaho, and these were pulled off Oct. 7. That resulted notes of strawberry rhubarb jam, syrupy plums, apricot and tangerine. With the red hue and residual sugar of 18%, you entertain thoughts of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

Ste. Chapelle 2008 Late Harvest Riesling Snake River Valley, 550 cases, 10% alc., $10

Excellent. Chuck Devlin took the Riesling one

day later than his Cab Franc, and the results are even more impressive. He stays true to the variety with apple, pear, apricot and honeysuckle tones. The acid balance gives the impression of eating sweet apple pie and lemon chiffon pie. Devlin points out that dessert wines are intended to be your dessert, so make sure your the dish you are pairing for dessert is less sweet than the wine.

orange and Granny Smith apple. There’s just a touch of yeastiness, harkening to four months on the lees, yet it’s dry (just 0.6% residual sugar) and refreshing. Suggested pairings include Asian, Creole or Mexican fare.

Avery Lane Winery

ticking Jonagold apple, lemon, grapefruit, white pepper and a hint of butterscotch. Flavors of Golden Delicious apples and honeydew build on the palate, and the addition of Sauvignon Blanc (10%) lends a tangy crispness of grapefruit and some lemon pith for the finish.

2007 Chardonnay

Barnard Griffin

Washington, 3,000 cases, 13% alc., $10

2009 Riesling

Outstanding! Again, here’s proof one does need

Columbia Valley, 7,130 cases, 11.9% alc., $10

to do a lot or spend much to produce a likeable Chardonnay. The greeting begins with nose-

Excellent. Tried and true sites Caroway, Crawford and Balcom & Moe allow Rob Griffin

sugar (14%). This should be delicious with a slice of Canadian bacon and pineapple pizza that’ comes with a white sauce.

Port-style

flavors of blackberry jam, cherry and amaretto, and the sugar (4%), alcohol and acidity strike an accord. Enjoy it with a brownie or a slice of chocolate cherry cake.

Maison de Padgett Winery

Abacela

NV Smoking Gun Coffee Port

2007 Estate Port

Yakima Valley, 210 cases, 19.2% alc., $19

Umpqua Valley, 514 cases, 19% alc., $25

Excellent. Made from coffee, it exudes aromas of,

Outstanding! One could call this the Northwest’s

yes, coffee, but also toasted filberts, smoky almonds and vanilla bourbon. It’s a smooth cafe mocha on the palate and hints of Nutella on toast in the finish. The addition of spirits was not heavy handed as the alcohol does not overwhelm, but it might be too sweet for some.

most honest Port-style wine for a variety of reasons, starting with Earl Jones’ adherence to Portuguese varieties Tempranillo (53%), Bastardo (19%), Tinta Amarela (13%), Tinta Cáo (9%) and Touriga Naçional (6%). The experience opens with mature aromas of blueberry, black cherry and dark toast. Fruit, oak and alcohol already are adroitly integrated on the palate with rich blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and Belgian chocolate flavors. And this is doubled the production of the 2006 vintage.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Muscat Port Willamette Valley, 141 cases, 18.2% alc., $28

Excellent. Vines first planted in 1965 merely add

to the fascination with this unusual yet delicious drink that may require some education because Port-style wines created from white grapes are rare in our region. There’s just a hint of charred whisky barrel in the background, which mostly covered up by honeysuckle, orange peel, grapefruit and Spanish almond aromas. It’s akin to crème brulee between the lips and a broad mouthcoating drink of honey and attractive vanilla, cleansed slightly by grapefruity acidity. The final reward is a nibble of fig in the finish.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2005 Estate Pinot Noir Port Willamette Valley, 80 cases, 18.2% alc., $38

Recommended. Four years of life in French oak

Horizon’s Edge Winery NV Wishful Thinking Port Yakima Valley, 210 cases, 19.5% alc., $19

Outstanding! No one in the Northwest develops as many different after-dinner drinks as David Padgett in Zillah, Wash. We’ve counted six between his two labels, but he could have come up with another since this. This is akin to a liquefied chocolate bar as the nose is reminiscent of a Mounds with a slice of strawberry. Across the lips it’s a Tootsie Pop then an Almond Joy in the finish, and there’s no bite of alcohol. A glass of this in the evening might lead to a tap on your honey’s thigh and more than just a Hershey’s Kiss.

Kettle Valley Winery NV Starboard Port-style Naramata Bench, 160 cases, 19% alc., $24 CDN

Recommended. Bordeaux varieties Malbec and Petit Verdot off the estate King Drive block supply power to this French oak influenced sipper. Plum, cassis, rich toffee and dark chocolate are found in the aromas and flavors. Pie cherry acidity overtakes the alcohol until giving way to bittersweet chocolate tannins. The sugar sits at 10.5%.

shows with heavy accents of toffee over the top of black cherry, cracked black pepper, cedar and baked brownie.

Willamette Valley Vineyards

Washington, 464 cases, 11% alc., $25

Gingko Forest Winery

Excellent. Aging on the lees for 26 months made

Excellent. The Roberts’ unique blend of

2008 Late Harvest Syrah

Gewürztraminer, Riesling and pineapple juice sails through the nostrils and between the lips with added notes of apricot and lemon cream. Acidity from the Riesling balances the residual

Outstanding! Dense aromas include black cherry, brown sugar, caramel, raisins, fennel and absinthe. It’s a rich, smooth and delightful with

Westport Winery NV Pineapple Express

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Wahluke Slope, 19.1% alc., $22

2007 Quinta Reserva Pinot Noir Port Style Oregon, 108 cases, 18% alc., $50

for some majesty not normally associated with Port-style wines made from Pinot Noir. Black cherry, strawberry, vanilla and orange peel aromas re-emerge on the tongue. There’s a lot of sweetness (9.3% residual sugar), late tannin and nice acidity leading to a finish of coffee.

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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

to continue his widely acclaimed success with this grape. Peaches and apple aromas include orange oil, minerality and fresh linen. There’s a rush of the same tasty orchard fruit to the palate with tangerine acidity and Gala apple peel in the finish. Residual sugar sits at 1.2%.

Canyon’s Edge Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills, 440 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

Recommended. The aromatics tilt toward juicy

pineapple and Golden Delicious apple with citrus notes, grassiness and just a hint of gooseberry, but there’s a supreme production of gooseberry on the palate. It’s backed by fair bit of creamy orange, a snap of celery and a lengthy finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley, 48,000 cases, 13% alc., $9

Recommended. The Oct. 10 freeze ended ripen-

ing in Washington wine country, but this foodfriendly and sophisticated style is focused on acidity, instead of sweetness (0.8% residual sugar.) Distinctive Riesling qualities show with green apple, peach, petrol and river rock with a squirt of tangerine. Granny Smith apple and tangerine acidity make for a mouthwatering finish and a rapid return. Enjoy with mild cheese, crab or curries.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Harvest Select Riesling Columbia Valley, 60,000 cases, 11% alc., $9

Excellent. A new style of Riesling emerges from

the variety’s biggest champion in the New World. It shoots for a sweet spot of 11% residual sugar, which is 10 times more than the Dry Riesling, but just a drop behind the Columbia Valley. An invitation of tropical fruit and Pink Lady apple aromas funnels into fruit cocktail flavors in a medium syrup. Succulent acidity drizzles into a finish of pears and Fee Brothers Cherry Bitters.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Limited Release Viognier Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 13% alc., $15

Outstanding! If the Vintage Reserve Club and

might remind some of Tommy Tutone’s song to Jenny. Could she be as tart as a Granny Smith apple and sweet as a white peach? Both are signs of arguably the most successful wine in the Northwest, yet there’s more to the story with a swipe of chalkboard dust, a whiff of petrol and skipping a river rock. The pour brings guava and some mango on the entry, and then is fast-forwarded to Pink Lady apple and Bosc pear with more minerality and acidity that loiters.

Banana's Foster, caramel apple and sweet potato pie. There’s richness to the palate with more apples while its Riesling heritage shows with notes of petrol and minerality. There’s just a hint of residual sugar (3.6%) in the finish.

Covey Run Winery

creates these wines, and this one takes you by surprise. The rich golden hue carries aromas of starfruit, gooseberry, orange peel and yellow grapefruit. Rather than tart or unripe, the palate shows pleasing and rounded flavors of sweetened citrus and starfruit.

2008 Fumé Blanc Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 13% alc., $9

Outstanding! Kate Michaud is responsible for some of the largest lots in the Northwest, and her attention to detail shows with this absolutely stunning Sauvignon Blanc. She worked with Art denHoed, Buoy and Smith vineyards to unleash classic aromatics of gooseberry, lychee and honeysuckle with enjoyable notes of wheat grass. Succulent flavors of orange, grapefruit and lemon make this tasty and refreshing with a high-acid, lowoak profile that marries the fruit and the herbaceous quality of the variety while keeping it nearly bone dry.

2008 Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 1,109 cases, 11.8% alc., $11

Excellent. Silver Lake's William Ammons also

Hyatt Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris Rattlesnake Hills, 378 cases, 13.1% alc., $10

Excellent. The label reads “Pinot Gris,” but the

additions of Muscat Ottonel (10%), Viognier (9%) and Riesling make this an especially showy glass. It’s peachy and floral, backed by apricot, vanilla and orange Creamsicle. A thin line of lemony acidity strikes a balance, giving way to some late tartness.

Covey Run Winery

Hyatt Vineyards

2008 Riesling

Columbia Valley, 65,000 cases, 12% alc., $9

Rattlesnake Hills, 4,318 cases, 11% alc., $10

Excellent. Here’s another case for Washington

Outstanding! Andy Gamache continues to be one of the region’s most underrated winemakers for producing quality, quantity and value. Cool conditions at the end of the season allowed him to elicit aromas of Golden Delicious apple, apricot, peach, lychee and pear butter. The entry is sweet is akin to a peach melba, joined by more apples and apricots with tangerine-like acidity that continues to churn the flavors and balance the residual sugar (5%).

showing itself as one of the world’s leaders for this German variety, both in scale, quality and value. Gala apple, slate, minerality and lemon aromas lead to more orchard fruit and a big blast of tangerine acidity from the midpalate on through. It’s a mouth-watering finish to the sweetness, which is at 2.1% sugar.

Covey Run Winery 2008 Reserve Late Harvest Riesling Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 12.2% alc., $12

Kestrel Vintners

Recommended. This bottling is focused on the

NV Fifth Edition Pure Platinum

Jones family’s Two Gun Vineyard near Quincy, and there’s a reward of glacéed apricots, Jonagold apple, jasmine and Bit o’ Honey. Late acidity and a mere 3.8% residual sugar allows gives this more vibrancy than one would expect from a dessert wine.

Yakima Valley, 3,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $12

tasting room sales don’t, then the estate Summer Concert Series will drain the supply of this dry. Fruit from Goose Ridge Vineyard near Red Mountain made for a wide array of fruity aromas that include starfruit, kumquat, apple, pear and citrus, but there’s a thread of minerality and fresh linen in the background. Kumquat slices on the palate with Fuji apple, ushered along by fascinating spritzy lemon/lime acidity, then finished with quinine. Enjoy with Orange Chicken or lightly breaded tilapia.

Dusted Valley Vintners

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2007 McGuire Vineyards Riesling

2008 Boomtown Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,800 cases, 13.7% alc., $13

Excellent. A crack of the cap unloads a snootful

of green apple, banana, Bosc pear, cantaloupe, lime, some minerality and a Circus Peanut. Its steely and crisp approach shows more of the apples and lime, along with nectarine and acidity that really gets the juices flowing.

Eaton Hill Winery

2009 Riesling

Yakima Valley, 190 cases, 14% alc., $10

Columbia Valley, 647,275 cases, 12% alc., $9

Recommended. A baker could delight in drinking

Excellent. Looking at the size of the production

this wine with its hints of mom’s apple pie,

Hoodsport Winery

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 1 0

Excellent. Flint Nelson sticks with this fragrant

and delicious blend of Gewürztraminer (52%) and Viognier from Kestrel View, Outlook and Stone Ridge vineyards. Aromas are huge with grapefruit, lychee, orange Creamsicle and orchard fruit. The drink is a complex and mouth-filling entry of fruit cocktail that continues to deliver Creamsicle and grapefruit. Spritzy acidity allows for dry and trailing finish, despite the residual sugar (1.3%).

Kyra Wines 2009 Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley, 364 cases, 11% alc., $13

Recommended. Kyra Baerlocher points out the

Oct. 10 freeze pinched her ultimate hopes for this vintage. Still, there’s an appealing production of peaches and canned pear, along with varietal character of sugar cane and grassiness. Nice tartness and residual sugar of 2.55% adds to its yumminess and deck applications.

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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Lone Canary Winery Columbia Valley, 629 cases, 13% alc., $10

the palate. The barrel treatment of the primary lot from Sagemoor Vineyard (40%) shows only in the finish.

Recommended. The bulk of the fruit came in on

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

Sept. 12 from the Milbrandts’ Northridge block, which allowed Mike Scott to highlight notes of starfruit, citrus, river rock and freshcut grass, while preserving the crisp acidity.

Magnificent Wine Co. 2008 Fish House Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 12% alc., $13

Recommended. Fresh-cut Golden Delicious

apples, pineapple and yellow grapefruit aromas show a continuation in the mouth of unsweetened grapefruit. What follows are flavors of Asian pear and pineapple that finish in a flurry of lime sorbet and oak tones.

Magnificent Wine Co. 2008 Fish House Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 5,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Excellent. It’s bone dry and grassy showing

Granny Smith apples and gooseberry tones. A spoonful of fresh-squeezed lemon and gooseberry pie make it brassy on the palate and a good foil for steamed mussels.

Magnificent Wine Co. 2008 House White Columbia Valley, 30,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $13

Excellent. The base of Chardonnay (78%) gath-

a crisp lemony structure that finishes dry.

Rio Vista Wines 2009 Estate Riesling Columbia Valley, 128 cases, 12.7% alc., $15

2008 Barrel Select Chardonnay

Recommended. Notes of Golden Delicious

Yakima Valley, 418 cases, 13.7% alc., $13

Excellent. A rush of floral aromas includes hon-

eysuckle and pineapple with barrel notes of banana and vanilla. There’s a big hit of sweet canned peaches on the entry, a piece of butterscotch on the midpalate and Gala apple in the finish.

apple, peach, lime and river rock are carried along by Granny Smith apple acidity for easy drinking at this winery on the banks of the Columbia River near Chelan, Wash.

Samson Estates Winery 2008 Riesling

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

Columbia Valley, 120 cases, 12% alc., $15

2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Gewürztraminer

Excellent. This winery in Everson, Wash.,

Red Mountain, 155 cases, 14% alc., $15

Excellent. Washington state’s smallest appella-

tion doesn’t devote much of its prized vineyards to this German white. Here's a success story that opens with a big hit of lychee, a whiff of scraped vanilla bean and grapefruit and quince aromas. Sweet tropical fruit flavors make for a delicious drink that’s accented by orange and cloves in the finish. Adding a bit more Marsanne (12%) may have better balanced the residual sugar (1.4%).

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Viognier Yakima Valley, 833 cases, 13.7% alc., $15

shows off many of this German variety’s finer points, opening with notes of jasmine, apple blossom, lychee and apricot. Golden Delicious apple leads the box full of orchard fruit flavors on the palate. There’s a fascinating nibble of nasturtium blossom in the midpalate, then a dash of lime juice to balance the tiny amount of sweetness.

Scatter Creek Winery NV Peach Breeze White Wine Yakima Valley, 220 cases, 12% alc., $13

Outstanding! Terril Keary deviates from the norm at times in his tiny Tenino, Wash., winery, and yet he delivers. Here, he takes Yakima Valley Chardonnay (88%) and adds peach juice, most of it after two weeks and with some French oak additions for a touch of creaminess. Peaches and apricots dominate the senses, backed by some tangerine, lemon and Fuji apples. It's a rich, rewarding and fanciful drink that carries a touch of sweetness (1.8% residual sugar).

ers aromatic complexity by blending in Riesling (11%), Muscat (5%), Gewürztraminer (5%) and Pinot Gris, which provides hints of green apples, pears and grapefruit spice. There’s nice lemony tartness and a lingering finish for summertime fare and enjoyment.

Recommended. An assortment of entry points to

Maryhill Winery

Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery

2008 Pinot Gris

2007 Rosetta Blanc

Upland Estates

Columbia Valley, 5,528 cases, 13.2% alc., $15

Yakima Valley, 214 cases, 13.9% alc., $13

2008 Gewürztraminer

Recommended. Stainless steel fermentation

Recommended. A nose-filling blend of Viognier

Snipes Mountain, 130 cases, 13.2% alc., $14

(66%), Chardonnay (20%), Gewürztraminer (10%) and Muscat makes for tones of pear, lemon/lime, banana, petrol and clarified butter with starfruit tartness. Serve well chilled.

Recommended. Pink grapefruit, green apple,

helps focus this drink on tones of apricots and crisp nectarines with pleasing tartness akin to grapefruit and lemon.

Mercer Estates

this bottling starts with green apples and pears poached with cloves and nutmeg, then follows with jicama and a Kettle Brand baked potato chip. A drizzle of Limeade adds brightness.

marshmallow and cinnamon splash about in an off-dry style.

Vale Wine Co.

2008 Riesling

OS Winery

Yakima Valley, 2,403 cases, 12.7% alc., $14

2009 Champoux Vineyard Riesling

Excellent. David Forsyth ranged no more than

Horse Heaven Hills, 238 cases, 9.8% alc., $15

five miles from his new Prosser, Wash., winery for these grapes from Cruz, Pontin and the estate Brooks vineyards. It shows a steely approach with notes of Granny Smith apple, firm nectarine, sugar cane, minerality, river rock, petrol and beeswax. The residual sugar of 1.3% is whisked clean.

Recommended. It’s rare to see vineyard-desig-

Recommended. Peach, apples, kumquat show

nated wines from Paul Champoux’s coveted blocks in this category. Red Delicious apples, gooseberry, jasmine and orange blossom aromas expand on the palate with huge mouthwatering tangelo acidity to balance the residual sugar (2%).

Widgeon Hill Winery

Mercer Estates

Pine & Post Winery

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

2007 Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 7,504 cases, 12.9% alc., $14

Washington, 15,000 cases, 13% alc., $8

Recommended. Peach and lychee aromas are

Recommended. Mouthwatering tones of fruit

joined by gooseberry jam and diesel, a combination that continues in pleasing tartness onto

cocktail, McIntosh apple and peach taffy make for an approachable drink with showy oak and

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2009 Dry Riesling Snake River Valley, 132 cases, 13.9% alc., $14

off some diesel and tropical notes in a dry fashion that closes with lemon and honeydew.

2007 Viognier Yakima Valley, 38 cases, 13.5% alc., $12

Recommended. Orange oil, lemon, petrol and

toasted oak aromas merely wink at the wideeyed appreciation of acidity that's akin to blood orange and yellow grapefruit with a slice of candied ginger. Enjoy with a green summer salad accented with chunks of grapefruit and yellow raisins.

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vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

King Estate still flying high

ing Estate Winery near Eugene, Ore., presents a regal presence that offers a realm of opportunities for wine lovers. There are, of course, the wines, featuring Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, but also an expansive country winery complex. Also featured are a visitor center and the King Estate Restaurant and tasting bar. The restaurant features gourmet food that not only can be paired with current releases but also library wines. All of this is surrounded by 1,033 acres that includes 465 acres of organically grown grapes, reported to be the largest such block in Oregon. It all happened because Ed King Jr., who grew up on a wheat farm near Dodge City, Kan., left the farm and eventually created King Radio in Kansas, which supplied electronic navigational and communication equipment for civilian and military aircraft. What does this have to do with wines in Oregon, you ask? Well, Ed King Jr. and his son Ed King III both had a love of fine wines. In 1984, father and son sold King Radio and Ed III moved to Eugene to secure an MBA at the University of Oregon. In 1990, when the Oregon wine scene was ramping up for unprecedented expansion, Ed III, along with his father, started planning King Estate on land not far from Eugene. They had the money to do a first-class job, and the result is King Estate, in which the father is chairman of the board and the son the CEO. While starting out making Pinot Noir — the traditional wine of choice for many Oregon wineries — King Estate also quickly jumped aboard the Pinot Gris bandwagon and is believed to be not only the largest producer of this variety in Oregon but also perhaps the country. There has been a steady expansion of the wine portfolio since the beginning, with current winemaker Bill Kremer and assistants John Albin and Lindsay Kampff. Beside both a Domaine (reserve) Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, King Estate also makes a Signature (regular) Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. It also has branched out into other labels and varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. King Estate also produces a Riesling and a Pinot Gris dessert wine called Vin Glacé. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are bottled under the label NxNW — which means “North by Northwest” and is a nod to their aviation hertiage — and include grapes from Washington’s Columbia Valley. The Riesling is labeled as “next.” There also is a “next” Pinot Noir. Finally, King Estate is jumping up and down over a new line 90

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of value Pinot Noirs and Pinot Gris under the Acrobat label. Both are under $20. I asked Wine Press Northwest editors Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman, along with longtime wine judge Coke Roth, to assist me in tasting four vintage Pinot Noirs along with a selection of other current King Estate wines. King Estate 1996 Pinot Noir, Oregon: Still holding up well after 14 years. Nice bouquet of pie cherries and earth with a touch of caramel. Delicate flavors of tart cherries and blueberries with bright acidity and sturdy tannins. “The 1996 was considered a poor vintage, but in retrospect this one is holding up better than some of the more exalted Oregon vintages,” Perdue remarked. King Estate 1998 Pinot Noir, Oregon: Starting to show some age, or as I like to say, aging gracefully, with the original raspberry, cherry and plum characters fading a bit. There are still some cinnamon and black pepper components. King Estate 2002 Pinot Noir, Oregon: Strawberries come to mind with the aromas followed by the same for flavors. There are also some intriguing herb characteristics, licorice and supple black cherry flavors. Good breadth for a classic Oregon Pinot Noir. King Estate 2004 Pinot Noir, Oregon: Starting to mature but is holding up well. Think leather aromas and rhubarb cherry pie flavors. King Estate 2008 Signature Pinot Noir, Oregon, $27: Straight forward, tasty and smooth, opening with leather, Van cherries and unripe strawberries. There is also some red licorice. next 2008 Riesling, Washington, $12: Grapefruit, gooseberries and Fuji apples hallmark a crisp, balanced riesling. Acrobat 2009 Pinot Gris, $12, Oregon: Nice sweetness with ample acidity offering pears, citrus and some melons. King Estate 2008 Pinot Gris, $17, Oregon: Smooth and approachable. Starfruit, pear, apple and some lively citrus. King Estate 2008 Domaine Pinot Gris, $25, Oregon: Big and juicy, a real palate pleaser. Pineapple, mango with nice intensity yet great balance to match with all kinds of seafood. NxNW 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $25: Made from a host of top Eastern Washington vineyards. Smooth with chocolate, berries and light tannins. NxNW 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $18: Sweet oak and black pepper aromas yield to boysenberry jam flavors backed by sturdy tannins.

BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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