Wine Press Northwest Winter 2007

01 cover

12/17/07

11:43 AM

Page 1

02 Best Western ad

12/2/07

5:20 PM

Page 2

03 TCVCB ad

12/2/07

5:45 PM

Page 3

04 contents.qxd

12/4/07

11:26 AM

Page 2

WINE PRESS

Vol. 10, No. 4

N O R T H W E S T

Winter 2007/2008

The Royal BC Museum has a large collection of totem poles on exhibit in Thunderbird Park in Victoria.

60

34

70

Sooke Harbour House erected this 3,000-pound totem pole, carved at Blue Raven Gallery by Carey Newman, in September.

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

34 Victoria & Vancouver Island Check out our Wine Lovers Guide for information on wineries, wine shops, wine bars, restaurants and lodging in Victoria and environs.

60 2007 Harvest Report Growers and winemakers dealt with a variety of weather problems for the 2007 vintage.

70 Platinum Judging We judge 258 Northwest gold medal winners to find the best of the best in our eighth annual Platinum Judging.

90 Match Makers Two Northwest chefs pair their dishes with Venturi-Schulze’s 2004 Brut Naturel and Aceto Balsamico.

ON THE COVER The Victoria Government Parliament Buildings that front the Inner Harbour light up the night with more than 3,300 light bulbs.

Page 34.

Photo by Jackie Johnston

6 Wine Nose What’s in your cellar?

8 A Distant Perspective Platinum perspective

10 Market Grapevine ’Tis the season for holiday hedonism

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Crown fit for a sparkling wine

14 Urban Sips What’s your wine sign?

16 19 20 22 98 114

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Wine Shop Directory Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings Tinhorn Creek leads B.C. in many ways

90

05 Masthead

12/6/07

1:58 PM

Page 5

WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Dan Berger, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Mona Perdue, 360-373-2659 E-mail: mperdue@mac.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $10 U.S., $12 Canadian and $15 outside of North America per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site.

Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below.

Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2007 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

5

06 Wine Nose

12/4/07

COLUMN

11:25 AM

Page 6

the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

What’s in your cellar?

A

year or so ago, I received a review copy of a book on how to build your wine cellar. More specifically, it was how this guy puts together showcase wine collections for the rich and shameless in Southern California.

His premise was that your cellar should be filled with the most expensive and famous wines, regardless of their actually quality. It listed one or two Northwest wines, but the rest were California cult wines, Bordeaux First Growths, top Champagnes, vintage Ports and impossible-to-find Burgundies. No $15 Merlots. No Rieslings. Nothing you would drink on, say, a Tuesday night when your idea of cooking is to dial your local pizza joint. In fact, following this guy’s recommendation would leave you with wines you would not actually drink. You’d just show them to your friends and feel superior.

While the book was worthless, it has gotten me to think about what’s in my cellar. My wine collection is more like a collection of friends and memories. It’s a few hundred bottles of mostly obscure wines with a handful of marginally famous labels. The “stars” include a few bottles of Leonetti, a Cockburn Port and a Château Rieussec I found at a wine shop in Spokane. I did have a bottle of 1997 Orneillia, a Super Tuscan I brought home from a trip to Italy. As I recall, it scored well in international wine magazines. I opened it a few years ago for some close friends, figuring it was better to drink it while it was still good.

As one could imagine, my cellar is primarily filled with Northwest wines. As I taste wines in competitions or visit wineries, I buy bottles that have meaning for me. Perhaps they remind me of a favorite memory, such as when I spent a couple of autumn days handsorting Pinot Noir clusters at Penner-Ash Wine Cellars in the Willamette Valley.

Here’s an idea of what I prize: • I have, perhaps, the largest collection in the United States of bottles from Kettle Valley Winery in Naramata, B.C. You cannot get much further off the beaten path than Kettle Valley, but the destination is the reward. I happened by on Sept. 11, 2001. I was in Penticton researching a book and, frankly, I couldn’t stand to watch CNN anymore. I decided to keep my appointment at Kettle Valley and was blown away by the wines. I return annually to purchase a case or two (or three or four). Thus, out of the 24 cases of 2002 Petit Verdot made, I have roughly 5 percent of the total production. If you walked into my cellar, you probably wouldn’t understand why I have so much of this wine — until you tasted it.

• I have several bottles of wines with strong regional interest, such as Reininger, Betz, Bethel Heights, Ste. Michelle vineyard designates, Fidelitas, Penner-Ash, Cougar Crest and Blue Mountain.

• I have a lot of wine for everyday drinking, especially rosés, Rieslings, Merlots, Cabs, etc. You’ll find a fair bit of 6

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Barnard Griffin, Helix by Reininger, Columbia Crest, Snoqualmie and Powers. I supposed that the closer the winery is to my house, the more of their wine I have.

• Tefft Cellars in the Yakima Valley has a dedicated fan base, but it isn’t a big name. Yet I have a whole lot of Tefft because it was the first winery I really got to know (before we started the magazine). Most of my Tefft is older Cabs and a bunch of out-of-the-mainstream wines, such as Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc (the ’97 is pretty killer). My reason for the Teffts in my collection has more to do with the friendships I made there than the collectibility of the wines.

• I love finding obscure Northwest producers whose wines are mind-boggling. I discover them pretty early because many new wineries send us their products for review. When I run into something like Walter Dacon in Shelton, Wash., Cliff Creek in Southern Oregon, Joie in Naramata or Wild Goose in Okanagan Falls, I am thrilled. I know how good they are, and I love sharing them with friends and family.

• After our Platinum Judging each year, I purchase a couple of bottles of the top wines. I hide them in the cellar with plans to stage a “best-of-the-best” vertical, probably in three years after we’ve conducted the competition for a decade. It will be interesting to see how each of these wines we’ve deemed the finest in the Northwest holds up.

• I have a fair number of California wines in my cellar.

First of all, I have a thing for Petite Sirah. Because most of this red Rhône variety in the world is grown in California, I have ended up with wines from Napa, Lodi, Anderson Valley, Sonoma County, Sierra Foothills and a few other regions down there. I happen to adore the wines of Navarro Vineyards in Mendocino County, so I have several bottles of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. I also have a good collection of wines from Cosentino in Napa. Mitch Cosentino is a friend, and I’ve been in his wine club for a few years.

Here’s the bottom line: My wine cellar is not for impressing anyone. It’s about having wines I like drinking and the stories they could tell. I would estimate that I could pop the cork (or twist the screwcap) on 80 percent of the wines in my cellar without worrying about whether it is the right moment or how much of the mortgage that bottle could cover.

It’s about what will taste good that night with dinner. It’s about wines I can enjoy without guilt.

I don’t need some silly book to tell me that.

ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 and via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com. Watch his weekly video wine show at www.winepressnw.com/video/vodcast.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

07 Maryhill

12/2/07

5:49 PM

Page 7

08 Berger column

12/4/07

COLUMN

1:16 PM

Page 8

a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Platinum perspective

A

s a frequent taster of Pacific Northwest wines and outspoken critic of stuff I don’t understand, I’m often seen as an annoying gadfly who (unfortunately) has a big mouth.

That is, I’m outspoken when I detect problems in wines.

Such as when, a year ago after another Platinum Judging, I looked over my notes and blurted out that too many Cabernets were too tannic. I also said similarly unkind things on these pages — no doubt irritating a lot of people in the Pacific Northwest who must have asked who this blaggard was.

I’m no ogre, and there is a kinder side. The good news this holiday season, to warm the hearts of both consumers and winery owners, is my conclusion after the recent Platinum showdown.

A year after my intemperate remarks on the Cabs, I assess the 26 Cabernets and 20 Meritage-type wines we tried. And my general impression is that a lot of good work is being done to make tannin part of a better-balanced scheme, allowing the wines to be consumed a bit earlier without wrecking the short-term aging potential of the wines.

But the really good news comes from the Riesling portion of the judging, 13 wines that I can only call spectacular. In fact, of the 13, my score sheet had nine wines listed with a Platinum vote (!) and three more with Double Gold votes.

It’s true that my fellow judges didn’t all share my enthusiasm for the category, but given my normally curmudgeonly nature about wines, it’s really a statement of fruit greatness meeting winemaking skill.

And it’s hard to dislike almost any of the wines we tasted. If in fact the Riesling Revolution is happening before our eyes, as I firmly believe it is, then how is it possible that a wine as dramatic as is the Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Dry Riesling gets only a Platinum, and not a Double Platinum, as I believe it should have? Or similarly the the San Juan Vineyards 2006, the Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Indian Wells or the Three Rivers 2006? I believe the other judges were exercising more of a curmudgeonly bias than was I. Moreover, note the different areas of Washington from which these wines come. What an affirmation of putting the right grape into the proper soil!

And things will only get better, and not only for the state’s largest winery, which made 868,000 cases of Riesling in 2006 spanning three brands. This fall, Chateau Ste. Michelle hired one of Australia’s greatest Riesling winemakers, Wolf Blass genius Wendy Stuckey, whose Gold Label Rieslings have stunned the Australian wine show circuit for nearly two decades.

8

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Stuckey’s presence will also positively influence other winemakers here. And here’s why.

Almost all Australian Rieslings are bone dry. A few may have traces of residual sugars, but their structures are mainly composed of terrific acidity and low pH levels, to make for wines that are decidedly not to be consumed alone unless you’re an acid freak (which I am). You generally sip them with food.

Here is how Stuckey will impact all of Washington: The Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Dry Riesling, which has been made in the past, was previously not released outside of the winery’s tasting room. The 2006 was sent into the broad market to strategically identify if the demand for a dry Riesling really was there.

Sales indicate that it is. It is too soon to say how many cases of Riesling the Chateau made in 2007, but it surely will be more than in 2006. Some of that will be the Dry Riesling.

How much of that will be released to the broad market is a trade secret at this point.

But my guess is that sales of the 2006 dry version are greater than the sales people had anticipated, and that the trend will continue with the 2007 — which will be finished by Stuckey, a master at the game of harmonizing Riesling.

Assuming that Chateau Ste. Michelle has success with dry Riesling, it should help all Northwest wineries that make this variety. And since all wines can be broken down into component parts, the area’s other skilled winemakers surely will be able to figure out what structure is best for their wines.

(Many already have.)

Another key factor here is enthusiasm for the area’s soil and climate for Riesling by Bonny Doon founder Randall Grahm, who has erected the Pacific Rim winery in West Richland, Wash., to make nine wines — dry Riesling, sweet Riesling, a dessert Riesling to be called Vin de Glaciere, an Oregon Riesling, some vineyard-designated Rieslings, a small amount of dry Chenin Blanc and a Gewürztraminer.

Meanwhile, as Rieslings from New York, Michigan, British Columbia and Oregon filter into the marketplace as well, the rush will be on to view Washington as Riesling heaven.

But from my latest tasting of the Cabernets and Merlots, let’s not put them on the back burner just yet. As the old song goes, “We’ve only just begun.”

See, the curmudgeon has a sunny side!

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer and judge who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (www.

VintageExperiences.com).

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

09 St. Laurent

12/2/07

5:50 PM

Page 9

10 Market Grapevine

COLUMN

12/4/07

1:16 PM

Page 10

market grapevine

BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

’Tis the season for holiday hedonism Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

W

intertime in the Northwest ushers in not only visions of holiday hedonism, but also all manner of winter wonders from farm and field: plump pears and apples; crimson cranberries; hazelnuts and walnuts; rich cheeses; regional shellfish at their prime (scallops, crabs, oysters and mussels); and traditional fowl, game and meat dishes.

Our hedonistic holiday feast begins with Cervelle de Canut (Herbed Goat Cheese with Walnut Crostini), a recipe that appears in my latest book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (John Wiley & Sons, 2007), and comes from chef/owner Pascal Sauton of Carafe restaurant in Portland.

With a wire whisk or in a food processor, whip eight ounces (one cup) of soft, fresh goat’s milk cheese (chèvre) with half a cup of crème fraîche, two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, one tablespoon each minced fresh parsley and minced fresh chives and one-quarter cup of minced shallots. Season to taste with fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spread the cheese on slices of toasted walnut bread, arrange on a serving platter and top with frisée leaves and additional minced herbs and toasted walnuts.

Pair the goat-cheese crostini with a Three Rivers Winery 2004 Ahler Vineyard Syrah ($39) from the Walla Walla Valley for a lush, decadent burst of flavors and textures. With powerful aromas and flavors of dark fruits (blackberry, boysenberries, black cherries), chocolate and coffee, along with hints of white pepper, this dense, well-structured wine enhances the goat cheese and stands up to the tannic walnuts in grand style.

To make Winter Pear, Hazelnut, Watercress and Butter Lettuce Salad, in a large bowl combine six cups of gently torn Bibb lettuce; two cups of watercress (tough stems removed); four small, firm but ripe Bartlett or Comice pears (cored and cut into one-half-inch dice); and one-half cup of chopped, toasted hazelnuts. Whisk together one-quarter cup each hazelnut oil and seasoned rice vinegar with one teaspoon Tabasco sauce, pour over the salad and toss gently.

Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper.

Pair the salad with the Snake River Winery 2006 Arena Valley Vineyard Riesling ($9) from Idaho. Done in a semi-sweet style and with a low alcohol level (11%), this wine is a perfect holiday sipper on its own. But with its tropical fruit nose and flavors of mango and pineapple on the palate; lush, almost viscous mouth feel; and balanced acidity, it makes the perfect partner to our winter salad, as well as Asian food and even chips and salsa.

It’s all about the sauce as we continue our hedonistic feast in grand style with a Cranberry-Walnut Vinaigrette that will 10

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

partner well with many of the seafood, meat and heartier vegetable dishes on your holiday table — salmon, scallops, rock Cornish game hen, goose, turkey, pork tenderloin, Brussels sprouts, broccoli — well, you get the idea!

To prepare the sauce, in a small saucepan, bring half a cup of fresh or thawed frozen cranberries, one-quarter cup of water and two tablespoons of sugar to a simmer over medium heat. Cook four to five minutes, or until the cranberry skins pop, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, cool slightly at room temperature, then place the cranberries in the refrigerator to cool completely. When chilled, place the cranberries in a food processor or blender. Add half a cup of red-wine vinegar and two tablespoons of chopped walnuts and process until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add one cup of canola oil in a thin stream. When the oil is incorporated, season to taste with additional sugar or vinegar, as needed.

Pair the sauce with the protein and/or vegetables of your liking, then crack open a bottle of the Pasek Cellars Cranberry Wine ($10) from Washington State. This festive holiday favorite also enjoys a faithful following year-round.

A fruit wine made from 100 percent Northwest whole cranberries, and with a low alcohol level (11 percent), this rosy-red beauty boasts a light sweetness and characteristic tart cranberry finish that pairs well with so many different foods.

Rum Balls are a classic this time of year, but the wine I’ve chosen to pair them with is anything but conventional! Make the balls, a recipe from The Good Home Cookbook (Collectors Press, 2006) by combining one-and-one-half cups of vanilla wafer crumbs (about 50 wafers that have been pulverized in a food processor) with one-quarter cup each dark rum and honey, plus two cups ground walnuts (about eight ounces) until thoroughly blended. Shape into one-inch balls and roll in confectioners’ sugar until well coated. Store in an airtight container, keeping in mind that the flavor improves with a few days of aging.

Pair the Rum Balls with Sumac Ridge Estate Winery NV Sparkling Shiraz ($30 CDN). Crafted from Syrah grapes grown in the southern-most vineyards of the Okanagan Valley, this rare red bubbly is also Canada’s first sparkling Shiraz and displays lovely aromas of blueberry, cherry, and chocolate that continue on the palate. Anything chocolate is a natural partner, but barbecue dishes, duck, or turkey also pair perfectly. All in all, a magnificent finale to a hedonistic holiday celebration!

BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 17 years. She is the author of seven books including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (John Wiley & Sons, October 2007). Visit her online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

11 Canyon's Edge

12/2/07

5:52 PM

Page 11

12 Swirl Sniff Sip

12/6/07

COLUMN

2:00 PM

Page 12

swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Crown fit for a sparkling wine When I was in British Columbia recently, I tried a sparkling wine that had what the winemaker called a crown cap instead of a traditional Champagne cork. Why?

T

he debate over the best way to cap a wine bottle has even reached sparkling wines. So, the winery that made the wine in question may be caught up in that issue. I don’t recall any sparkling wine spoiled by cork taint, but I don’t doubt it happens. It seems to affect at least 3 to 5 percent of the still wines we taste at Wine Press Northwest and likely more.

And you may have noticed that plastic corks have largely disappeared on sparkling wines. That’s because the plastic has turned out to be permeable to oxygen, which slowly oxidizes wine. Most folks don’t find that any more appealing than a nasty cork tainted by TCA. As a sometime experimenter in sparkling winemaking, I’ve found the plastic corks I can readily buy don’t prevent oxidization of the wine for more than about one year. That certainly won’t do for a vintage bottle you want to stash for a special occasion.

The third possibility is that the winemaker doesn’t turn out enough bottles of sparkling wine to justify the expensive and rather extensive paraphernalia needed to put the classic cork into a Champagne bottle, top it with a steel cap, twist on a wire basket and then coat the top in a tasteful foil wrap to add a little extra curb appeal.

The price of all this effort is many times higher than the humble crown cap we learned to love in the not-so-genteel days when we swigged beer from brown bottles.

The crown cap can be installed in a simple one-step operation using equipment already needed for the second fermentation that sparkling wine requires. (See the wine word section below.) And crown caps are reliable and easy to pull off.

There’s much to like about that.

You trade tradition for simplicity. Much as we are doing with still wines as more and more wineries and wine lovers discover it’s so nice to just twist off that steel cap. No hunt for the corkscrew, and perhaps a bit a ceremony slips away, but the wine? Well, it sure doesn’t smell like a wet dog who’s been snoozing in a soggy cardboard box.

In a recent column, you discussed the limit on the amount of wine a U.S. resident can bring back to the states from Canada. What’s the limit on the amount a U.S. resident can bring into Canada or a Canadian can bring back home?

According to the Canada Border Services Agency’s Web site, www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca, the limit is the same for residents of both Canada and the U.S. — 1.14 liters or 40 imperial ounces, which generally is interpreted as one bottle of liquor or wine per person.

Beyond that, you pay.

12

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

“Travelers have to pay duties, taxes and provincial or territorial fees for any additional quantities of alcohol they bring in, up to provincial or territorial limits,” the CBSA Web site observes. “However, these fees can be much higher than the original price of the product. Travelers must be 18 years old to bring alcohol into Alberta, Manitoba and Quebec. The minimum age is 19 elsewhere in Canada.”

As my last column warned, be up front when you cross the border. “Travelers should not hide goods to avoid paying duties and taxes — that’s smuggling. It can result in severe penalties and prosecution,” the CBSA warns.

Virtually everyone in the two nations’ customs agencies that I’ve dealt with on both sides of the border during the past 37 years has been businesslike, often rather cordial and sometimes helpful. Even during the one time they went through my car from taillight to transmission back in my grad student days.

Wine Words: riddling and remuage

This has nothing whatsoever to do with J.R.R. Tolkien or Bilbo Baggins, the hobbit famous for inadvertently quick wit when asked a riddle.

Instead, it allows us to once again delve into a small lesson in French. Remuage is the French word for the process of loosening the sediment produced during the second fermentation of sparkling wine.

In the English-speaking world, riddling begins once the bottles have been placed into racks (pupitre in French) that allow the bottles to be tilted at an angle that gradually becomes steeper with each riddling.

When a bottle is riddled, it’s given a quick twist, tilted a bit more toward the vertical, and, ideally, the sediment each time slips a little farther down into the neck of the bottle.

Over eight weeks, if done by hand, or perhaps in as little as eight days if automated, the sediment ends up just above the crown cap of each bottle and is then ready for disgorgement — spelled the same in both French and English — once the neck is frozen and the cap is popped off. (The New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia reports that’s reduced to a mere eight seconds when porous yeast capsules are used.)

The next step is to top up the bottle with liqueur d’expedition, recork it and then set it aside for a bit of aging. Voila, we have sparkling wine.

KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 37 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

13 ste michelle ad

12/2/07

5:53 PM

Page 13

14 Teri Citterman

12/4/07

COLUMN

1:22 PM

Page 14

urban sips

BY TERI CITTERMAN

What’s your wine sign?

A

fter being single for most of my life and married for nearly 1/74th of it, I still find I do some of my best and happiest drinking alone. It’s not that I don’t want to drink with others, but sometimes it conflicts with the desperate want for an altered reality in which to deal with those very others.

That aside, wine is of the earth, the air and the water. Mix it up with a bit of fire and you’ve got the perfect astrological concoction to ring in the new year. And what’s a new year without a little guidance from the stars?

If you’re a Capricorn (like the German and I), you know what I mean when I say, “Wound tight with notes of pessimism and caution.” Patient and ambitious, Caps need solid structure, high standards and some level of fiscal oomph.

Unmistakably, a bottle of Pinot. Cooper Mountain 2005 Pinot Noir “Old Vines” is the perfect pairing for a grudging goat. It’s not slick but has a sophisticated French, rustic confidence. With fireworks of black and red berry and alfalfa tip sprinkles, this wine shows rugged earthiness from its igneous rock core.

A natural contrarian, Aquarians are honest and humanitarian, inventive and intellectual. With far-reaching attitudes, they can sometimes be overwhelming, though a rich, textured glass of Walter Dacon 2005 C’est Syrah Beaux can easily soften the edge.

This warming, deliciously winter wine is lean and lush with a deeply hypnotic lively spice balanced with sweet surrender.

Umm-ummm good — it should say it right on the label.

Not a monster of the deep nor a chicken of the sea, Pisces, the fish, is an imaginative, sensitive soul who can be a bit indecisive and mistaken for a sacrificial lamb. And what goes better with fish or lamb — sacrificial, grilled or otherwise — than Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2005 Merlot, a glass of wet asphalt coupled with new car scent. It’s the St. Bernard of wines — blueberry and toasty with a shot of blackberry and a bit of choke-your-cherry on the finish.

Don’t we all wish we had a little Aries in us? Full of adventure, energy and courage, Aries’ wit is as quick as its temper. Though its enthusiasm teeters on impulsive self-indulgence (You say it like it’s a bad thing!) this fervent ram needs a daredevil wine.

Enter Woodhouse Family Cellars 2003 Dussek Syrah with its blackest fruit mixed with black licorice, this dark glass of juiciness stands up and shouts, “Let’s do it again!” — whatever “it” might be.

The bounty of the bull is patience and reliability. Persistent and determined, Tauruses finish what they start. Inflexible, yes. Impulsive, no! The perfect designated drivers, the resentful Taurus may end up dropping off fellow drinkers at precisely the wrong house if rubbed wrong. Slip them a glass of CedarCreek Platinum Reserve 2005 Pinot Noir with supple aromas of Black Forest cake swirling forward. Though subtle and steadfast, this wine takes the bull by the horns.

And then there is Gemini. The twins. Pure schizophrenia.

(After dating a few, I feel qualified to make this assessment.)

Wine for a Gemini needs to be whimsical, witty and light, lest this tense sign gets nervous. Vin Du Lac’s 2004 Chardonnay is a creamy sweet-and-sour balance of vanilla and butterscotch on 14

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

the back of your tongue. Scrumptious — even for the sometimes superficial Gemini.

Cancer, the receptive crab — full of love and emotion, albeit a bit clingy and moody. A Barrister 2005 Cabernet Franc provides a fortuitous steadiness with its plush depth, like a layered sweet plum cobbler and jammy “big boy”-ness. Throw a dollop of whipped cream in your mouth and call it a day.

Leo is generous and warmhearted, broad-minded and expansive with strutting, show-off tendencies. You know who you are. When Leos get a little too full (of themselves), a sturdy Cab will reel them in. Januik Winery’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon overflows with ripe currant, blackberry and chocolate. When the dream of the blue turtles meets the king of the jungle, the contrast can invite supple combustion.

With the eye of a hawk, Virgos have a meticulous sensibility and Capricorn-like standards. They’re full of trivial tidbits because of their anal yet intelligent examinations of all things from all angles. On their quest for perfection, they can be seen as harsh or fussy. In walks the perfect Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Riesling. Crisp and clean, just the way a Virgo likes it, with soft citrus wafting in the air. This mouthwatering wine is precisely balanced, as if a Virgo made it himself.

Romantic and charming, you can spot Libras at a party by the way they hold their bubbly — as well as the crowd. Sociably suave and easygoing, Libra wants to be of the same mind as everyone, lest appear disagreeable. Hard to do even for a supersign, but with a glass of Garry Oaks 2005 Blanc de Noir, it might be possible. This vivaciously dry rosé has a vivid Pinot Noir berry and cherry with Zweigelt sporty spice, perfect for every effervescent occasion — even with the most disagreeable of sorts.

With dramatic determination, Scorpio is the sexiest of the bunch. The “cool factor” of these strong, silent types is just simply out of reach for most of us. They’ve got that hard-toput-your-finger-on magnetism and choose an intricate blend as their drink of choice. A glass of DiStefano’s 2004 Meritage, please? That “should I untie you now” ripeness mingled with chewy tannins makes for a chocolaty cedar, black cherry and berry explosion. Lay it down ’cause this one’s got a few years.

Friends are God’s way of apologizing for our family, and a Sagittarius is a good choice to add to the mix. Sagittarians are positive, good-humored, straightforward and optimistic — to the point of sometimes being blind. While signs like Leo demand “people like me” — with Sags, you just can’t help it.

Their glass is always half full with something bold and elegant.

Northstar 2004 Merlot, muscular with raspberry, chocolate and smoky mocha and a jovial mouth of pure glee, fits the bill.

Cheers to 2008.

With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

15 vancouver playhouse ad

12/2/07

5:54 PM

Page 15

16-19 Calendar

12/6/07

2:23 PM

W I N E C O U N T RY

10

Page 16

activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

By ERIC DEGERMAN Not long ago, the Northwest wine scene pretty much shut down during the winter months.

Well, that can’t be said for the British Columbia vintners who don’t have their ice wine fruit harvested or the organizers of the Okanagan Ice Wine Festival (Jan. 14-19) near Kamloops.

Perhaps it’s global climate change that’s got more and more folks warming up to wine. More likely, though, it’s a sign that our culture is changing. Dare I say, enlightened?

In this regard, that change is for the better because now you don’t have to look hard or far to find a wine-related activity during the sometime dreary days

that prompt birds and thin-blooded humans to head south. Many of these off-season events involve food, and they all are populated by people passionate about wine — and life in general.

So there are more beneficial and healthy aspects to Northwest wine than anti-oxidants. Just don’t call it “The French Paradox.”

1

Go green for the holidays. Are you the type who buys a potted Christmas tree or an artificial tree?

Do you recycle your gift wrap? What about staying within a 100-mile radius for the ingredients to your holiday meal and serving a biodynamic wine? The Oregon Wine Board makes it easy to

find one. Go to www.oregonwine.org, slide your cursor over the “Discover Oregon Wine” and click on the “Sustainability” dropdown. There you will find a list of sustainable, organic or biodynamic producers. There also are the LIVE members (Low Input Viticulture & Enology, Inc.) in the Willamette Valley. See if your favorite winery is a member of the Salem-based group by visiting www.liveinc.org. The Northwest pioneer of this movement, Bob Gross, heads up Cooper Mountain Vineyards.

2

Ring in the New Year at a winery.

At least one Northwest winery is playing host to a New Year’s Eve event. Desert Wind, the new high-end boutique winery/resort in Prosser, offers a four-course meal paired with its wines, accompanied by jazz/swing music from the Goldberg Duo. The $125 per person fee includes a sparkling wine toast at midnight. Here’s the entrée: Butter-Poached Lobster Tail and Braised Beef Short Ribs Potato Puree and Truffle-Scented Baby Vegetables, which is paired with Desert Wind Semillon and Desert Wind Ruah.

Call 509-786-7277 or go to desertwindwinery.com and ask about lodging.

3

Ski one day, golf the next, wine tour in between. And we’re not talking water skiing. It’s one of the reasons why British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley ranks as perhaps THE retirement destination for all of Canada. Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa near the border city of Osoyoos suggests a run down Mount Baldy and a round of golf at Sonora Dunes Golf Course. Mount Baldy typically is open December and into March. And less than a sand wedge away from Spirit Ridge is Nk’Mip Cellars. Visit www.spiritridge.ca.

16

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

16-19 Calendar

12/4/07

3:09 PM

Page 17

W I N E C O U N T RY

4

Bringing the James Beard House to you. Perhaps the United States’ most important foodand-wine figure was Portland native James Beard. Upon his death in 1985, Julia Child promoted the idea of buying his famous home in Greenwich Village and preserving it as a tribute.

It is now the showcase for American chefs, and winners of the James Beard Foundation awards are asked to develop a menu and present it at the James Beard House. Jack Yoss, executive chef at Ten 01 in Portland, will prepare dinner at the famed New York house Jan. 15.

Six days later, he and sommelier Erica Landon offer their same Beard House menu at their Pearl District restaurant. Cost is $125, and the event features wines by St. Innocent and Frances Tannahill. Call 503-226-DINE to RSVP or visit ten-01.com.

5

Raise a glass and get crabby in Oregon. First, there’s the Oregon Seafood and Wine Festival in Portland on Feb. 1-2 at the Oregon Convention Center. The list of Northwest wineries involved is about 50 names long, and they are helping to support this annual multiple sclerosis fund-raiser. One goal is to set the Guinness record for the world’s largest seafood cocktail. Call 360-210-5275 or go to oregonseafoodfestival.com.

Later, this year marks the 31st anniversary of the Newport Seafood and Wine Festival, annually staged the last weekend in February. It will be held Feb. 22-24 and also features a number of Northwest wineries. Festivalgoers can see if they agreed with the judges of the wine competition, which includes a division for amateurs. Advance tickets are available via 800-262-7844 or go to newportchamber.org/swf.

6

Wine, chocolate, Washington. In Washington wine country, Valentines Day is a particularly big event and an early peek at the wine touring season. For example, the Lake Chelan wine group pours out the red carpet on Feb. 8-10 and 15-17. A W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

17

16-19 Calendar

12/6/07

2:01 PM

W I N E C O U N T RY

Page 18

activities

post-touring possibility is The Vogue — A Liquid Lounge in downtown Chelan. If you missed a winery, this wine bar touts itself as offering “all the local wines.” For information, visit thevoguelounge.com. For information on the participating wineries, go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

The Olympic Peninsula and island wineries run their “Tour” over the same two weekends (northsoundwineries.org), while the 50 members of Yakima Valley association (wineyakimavalley.org) concentrate their chocolate festivities over Feb. 16-17.

7

A Classic auction. It’s one of the most expensive tickets in connection with the Northwest wine scene, but the Classic Wines Auction in Portland raises millions each year to benefit area children. Last year, the total was $2.7 million. The weekend leaps off with the Ambassadors Dinner on Feb. 29 at the Portland Art Museum. The auction is

the next night at the Oregon Convention Center. One of the highlights of the weekend will be the presentation of the Oregon Vintner Award (ORVI) to Bethel Heights Winery — the Casteel brothers, Marilyn Webb, Patricia Dudley and Barbara Dudley — for its historic work on behalf of the Oregon wine industry.

Go to classicwinesauction.com.

8

Don’t be too intimidated to call.

These are dark and sometimes lonely months for wineries. Even those that aren’t necessarily open to the public might just open if you ask politely and are the type who buys wine by the case.

For example, it was long believed that Col Solare, the big new star near the summit of Washington’s Red Mountain, would not open to the public. That’s not always true. Tasting room manager Wendi Warner orchestrates the schedule at this joint venture between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Antinori of Italy. Call to

see if she has space. You must pay $25 per person to get in the door. That might seem extreme, but a bottle of 2004 Col Solare goes for $75. Call 509588-2200 or go to colsolare.com.

9

Hang out with growers by the bunch. Yakima used to get it.

Now, the Tri-Cities seems to own it. The annual Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers meeting, convention and trade show will be Feb. 6-8 at Three Rivers Convention Center in Kennewick. It lures growers, winemakers and wine industry insiders from throughout the Pacific Northwest. The list of discussion sessions includes “How to Bordeaux,” “How to TTB,” and “How to flaw wine — NOT!” Seminars require a pass. To see if you can get in, contact the WAWGG office in Cashmere at 509-782-8234 or go to wawgg.org.

10

Platinum and beyond. Each year in October, Wine Press Northwest gathers judges from across the United States to rate many of the best wines in the region.

We call it the Platinum Judging, and in a few pages you can begin to read the 14,000+ words of coverage by editor-inchief Andy Perdue.

The fifth annual Platinum Dinner on Feb. 1 at Seattle’s Columbia Tower Club gives you the chance to judge some of these wines for yourself. And they will be paired with food to make them even better. This time, Braiden Rex-Johnson and I will narrate the event and answer questions about the wines and our competition. Cost is $130. Go to randallpr.com or contact the CTC at 206-622-2010.

On March 7-9, the Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City, Ore., stages its second annual “Wine Appreciation Weekend.” Gracious innkeeper Barbara Sidway has invited me back to serve as the narrator as we focus on Northwest wines and the cuisine of executive chef Pedor Cabrales Torres. Special packages are available by calling 888-434-7374.

What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

18

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

16-19 Calendar

12/6/07

2:23 PM

Page 19

events

W I N E C O U N T RY

January 11-13 Oregon Wine and Food Festival, Salem. This fund-raiser for local children spans three days at the fairgrounds. Call 503-390-7324 or go to excelexpos.com.

14-19 Okanagan Ice Wine Festival, Sun Peaks, B.C. The celebration of the province’s dessert wines returns to this resort. Call 800-807-3257 or go to owfs.com.

22 Taste B.C. 2008, Vancouver. The Hyatt Regency plays host to a fund-raiser for B.C. Children’s Hospital. Provincial wineries, restaurants, cheese and chocolatiers will be featured. Call 604-739-7801 or go to libertywinemerchants.com.

26 A Celebration of Washington Wines, Woodinville. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to serve as the home for this black-tie event to benefit WSU’s viticulture and enology program. Call 509-335-6479 or go to wineauction.wsu.edu.

26 Gifts from the Earth, Seattle. The South Seattle Community College Foundation showcases its culinary arts and wine program by pairing 15 celebrity chefs with 30 state wineries. Call 206-764-5809 or go to southseattle.edu.

February 1-2 Oregon Seafood & Wine Festival, Portland. This multiple sclerosis fund-raiser features 50 wineries and the world’s largest seafood cocktail at the Oregon Convention Center. Call 360-210-5275 or go to oregonseafoodfestival.com.

2 St. Joseph’s Art & Wine, Kennewick, Wash. The 12th annual fund-raiser for St. Joseph’s Parish and School features regional wines, restaurants, artists and musicians. Cost is $50. Call 509-586-3820 or go to stjoesartandwine.com.

6-8 Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers Convention, Kennewick, Wash.

Growers, winemakers and vendors through the Northwest convene at the Three Rivers Convention Center and Toyota Center for the 12th annual meeting and trade show. Call 877-889-2944 or visit wawgg.org.

9-10 and 16-18 Red Wine & Chocolate Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The 10 member wineries on the peninsula and islands pour it on over two weekends and Presidents Day. Cost is $20. Call 800-785-5495 or go to northsoundwineries.org.

10-12 Oregon Wine Industry Symposium, Eugene. This event is nearly a month earlier than last year. Enology, viticulture and business are the focus at the Hilton Hotel and Conference Center. Call 503-228-8336 or go to oregonwine.org/symposium.

16-17 Red Wine and Chocolate, Yakima Valley, Wash. More than 50 wineries in the heart of the Northwest’s oldest grape-growing region pair their wines with chocolate. Reserve ticket is $20. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

22-24 Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, Newport, Ore. The 31st annual event, which was the first of its kind in the Northwest, is scheduled to include more than 60 wineries. Call 800-262-7844 or go to newportchamber.org.

25-March 2 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Vancouver, B.C. One of the world’s largest and oldest wine events is staged a full month earlier this year.

It gathers about 1,500 wines, more than 50 events and includes more than a dozen Northwest wineries. Call 604-873-3311 or go to playhousewinefest.com.

March 1 Classic Wines Auction, Portland. Tickets to this fund-raiser for Portland-area children sell out months in advance. It features winemakers and restaurants on both sides of the Columbia. Call 503-972-0194 or go to classicwinesauction.com.

1-2 Poverty Bay Wine Festival, Des Moines, Wash. Rotarians stage this gathering of more than a dozen Washington wineries, fare and live jazz at Landmark on the Sound. Cost is $25. Call 206-824-9462 or go to desmoinesrotary.org.

7-9 McMinnville Wine & Food Classic, McMinnville, Ore. This 15-year-old event has landed at the aviation museum. Cost is $15. Call 503-472-4033 or go to macwfc.org.

15 Greatest of the Grape, Canyonville, Ore. This storied event at Seven Feathers Hotel and Casino pairs 14 regional restaurants with 28 Southern Oregon wineries. Cost is $75. Call 541-673-5323 or go to umpquavalleywineries.org.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

19

20-21 WSD

12/4/07

2:15 PM

Page 20

Pacific Northwest Wine Clubs AVALON “RESERVE PINOT NOIR CLUB” Rare & highly rated Pinots: Beaux Freres, Soter, Bergstrom, Shea, Brick House, Sineann.

AVALON “NORTHWEST BIG REDS CLUB” Hard-to-get, highly rated reds: Andrew Will, Owen Roe, Woodward, Betz, Buty.

Informative newsletter each month, personal service, advance notice on popular wines.

Specializing in NW wine since 1989.

WWW.AVALONWINE.COM • 541-752-7418 Avalon Wine, 201 SW 2nd, Corvalis, OR 97333 * CHEERS TO YOU! ™ Wine Club * Award-Winning NW Wines & Gift Baskets. Online sales. 1-877-331-WINE www.WallaWallaWineStore.com ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS WINECLUB **Save 10% off all wine, every day! ** 509-962-8463 • EllensburgWineWorks.com THE OREGON PINOT NOIR CLUB. We taste all the pinot noir in Oregon and send you the best. Monthly wine clubs, case discounts, worldwide shipping, honest advice. If you love great pinot noir, call us soon. 800-847-4474 www.oregonpinotnoir.com • pinotguy@qwest.net OREGON WINE CLUB The finest Oregon wines at your doorstep every month. Call to join or order wine gifts. www.OregonWineClub.net 1-800-WINE CLB • Wine@OregonWineClub.net PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINE CLUB, P.O. Box 2081, Lake Oswego, OR 97035. Each month, we’ll select: two top NW wines (red, white, sweet or a combination). Cost per month averages less than $25 plus shipping.Call 800-288-3008 or join online at www.pnwc.com.

PACIFIC WINE CLUB West Coast & International Wine Clubs for all budgets and palates Tasting Room • Bottle Shop Limited Production • Top Rated Wines 3588 Heathrow Way, Medford, OR. 97504 1-800-792-6410 • www.pacificwineclub.com • VINE TALES WINE CLUB • Distinctive wines from smaller cellars with growing reputations -- offering superior values! NW, international & exclusive offerings. Join the Club!

Get bi-monthly selections delivered! www.vinetales.com 1-888-883-VINE (8463) WINE-BY-COUGARS Anyone can join and enjoy premium award-winning wines with a proud Cougar-connection 509-526-7700 or www.winebycougars.com

Washington Greater Seattle Area ARISTA WINE CELLARS 10 years of expertise in Great finds & Vintage Service www.AristaWines.com Allocated & special collectibles • Best Value in wine clubs • Tools & Gifts for every wine lover • Try before you buy tastings: Every Saturday 1-4:30. Complimentary 320 Fifth Ave. S., Edmonds, WA 98020 Free: 866.430.WINE

CITY CELLARS FINE WINES, 1710 N.45th St., Seattle. (206) 632-7238. Tues.-Sat.11-7; Sundays 12-5. www.citycellar.com. Friday tastings 5-7. “In the heart of Wallingford.”

CORKYCELLARS, 22511 Marine View Dr. S. Des Moines, WA. Open Tue.-Sat. 11-6:30 p.m.

Saturday. tastings: 11-6 p.m. (206) 824-9462 wineinfo@corkycellars.com • corkycellars.com DeLAURENTI SPECIALTY FOOD & WINE, 1435 1st Ave. in Seattle’s Pike Place Market.

Over 1000 wines. Open 7 days! (206) 622-0141 (800) 873-6685 • www.delaurenti.com deVINE WINES, 15224 Main St. in Mill Creek Town Center, featuring boutique NW wines, 425-357-6200 • www.de-vinewines.com

Olympia Area SAVORY FAIRE CAFE & WINE SHOP 135 S. Main St., Montesano, WA Open Mon-Fri: 10:30-3:30. Wine tastings & monthly specialty dinners. Friday wine tasting & tapas 5:30-9pm. www.savoryfaire.com • 360-249-3701 The WINE LOFT, 401 Columbia St. N.W., Olympia, WA 98501. Tues.-Fri. 11-6; Sat. 11-5.

360-754-6208 • www.wineloftoly.com

Tacoma Area WILDSIDE WINE, just off Sixth, Tacoma, WA at 608 A S. Oxford (3 blocks E of Jackson around the corner from JT’s). 253-565-0811

ESQUIN WINE MERCHANTS, 2700 Fourth Ave. S., Seattle. More than 4,000 wines.

Discount prices and free local delivery. Open 7 days a week. 206-682-7374. www.esquin.com

WINE BANK, 7017 27th St W.,University Place, WA 98466. Open Tues-Sat. Saturday tastings.

Wine club; weekly e-mail specials. We ship!

Great wines, great prices, great service!

253-564-1101 • www.winebankup.com

GEORGE’S WINE SHOPPE, 521 156th Ave SE Bellevue, WA in Lake Hills. Customer friendly; wines for every taste! Open Mon.-Sat. 425-644-7723 • www.georgeswineshoppe.com

THE WINE BASKET, 2118 S. 314th St., Federal Way. Wine tastings: Sat: 12-4 • 253-874-3070 Shop online: www.YourWineBasket.com

THE GRAPE ADVENTURE, Kent Wine Bar & Bottle Shop. Wine & beer on top, great cuisine,.

Lunch & Desserts. Unique Gifts; Wine club.

12930 SE Kent-Kangley Rd. Now open daily!

253-631-8400 • www.thegrapeadventure.com MADISON PARK CELLARS, Rare, hard-to-find wines. FREDMADCEL@aol.com (206) 323-9333 THE MET COFFEE & WINE BAR, Renton, WA 232-C Burnett Ave. S. Retail shop & Wine bar.

Premium WA wines, Thurs. eve wine tastings; all-day menu; espresso. Mon-Sat. 425-687-7989 NORTH CITY BISTRO Wine Shop & Wine Bar Seattle. 1520 NE 177th. European wines & wine dinners. 206-365-4447 • ncwshop@qwest.net SEATTLE CELLARS, 2505 2nd Ave., Suite 102, Seattle, WA 98121 Belltown’s premier wine shop.

Open Mon.-Sat. 11 am-7 pm • 206-256-0850 SEATTLE WINE CO., 1950 130th Ave. NE, Bellevue, WA 98005. “Wholesale” to the public.

Mon-Sat. The best wines at the best prices!

425-869-0609. www.seattlewineco.com URBAN VINES, A specialty wine & beer shop in Seattle’s Mount Baker neighborhood, Tues-Sat 3605 S McClellan St, www.urbanvines.com VILLAGE WINES, Tasting Room & Retail Store in the heart of Woodinville Wine Country.

Boutique wines & ales by the glass. Open daily for tasting at 14545 148th Ave. NE, Ste 211.

(425) 485-3536 • www.myvillagewines.com WEST SEATTLE CELLARS, 6026 California Ave. S.W., Seattle. Thurs. free tastings: 5:30-8 (206) 937-2868 • westseattlecellars.com THE WINE ALLEY, Fairwood Shopping Center, 14276 SE 176th St., Renton, WA 98058 Finest wines from the Pacific NW & the world 425-271-4501 • www.thewinealley.com WINE OUTLET, www.seattlewineoutlet.com Quality wines at discounted prices. Open daily.

1701 1st S. • (206) 652-1311 946 Elliott Ave. West. • (206) 285-1129 THE WINE RACK, Auburn, WA Cellar & Tasting Lounge. 4435 “A” St. SE, Suite G. Tastings Daily: $5 • 253-939-3303 • thewinerack.org

Olympic, Kitsap Peninsula, San Juans COMPASS WINES, 1405 Commercial Ave., Anacortes, WA. 360-293-6500; fax: 360-588-1895.

Extensive collection of rare & collectable wines.

Wine storage. Only 2 blocks from the marinas.

Dockside delivery available. compasswines.com HELLAMS VINEYARD downtown La Conner, 109 North 1st St. # 101 (in Limedock Bldg) Daily . 360-466-1758 . hellamsvineyard.com OLYMPIC WINE SHOP, Unique NW wine in Poulsbo Village Shopping Center next to Mike’s Car Wash: 19740 7th Ave. N.E. #G 360-697-9463 (WINE) • www.poulsbowine.com WATER TO WINE, Gig Harbor, 9014 Peacock Hill Ave. Ste 103A T-F:11-7; Sat:11-6; Sun:12-4 253-853-9463 • info@watertowineshop.com THE WINE SELLER, 1010 Water St., Port Townsend. (360) 385-7673 or 888-MAX-WINE (629-9463). Est. 1982. Surprising values as well as rare and older vintages. We ship. Open every day, year-round. www.PTWineSeller.com

Northwest Washington LIBATION STATION, a Fine Wine Shop 110 N. First St. Suite B., Mt. Vernon. Located in old downtown Mt. Vernon, WA. Weekly tastings.

Local & imported wines; 10% off all cases.

360-336-5266 • www.libationstation.com

Southwest Washington OLY’S WINE CELLAR, 402 N. Tower Ave., Centralia, WA 98531. Great NW wines, tastings, gifts, wine art & accessories • 360-736-2857 SALUT! WINE CO.,16020 SE Mill Plain Blvd, Suite 105, Vancouver. Tues-Sat: 10 am-6 pm.

Sunday 12-5. 360-891-5505 • salutwine.com SALUT! CAMAS BISTRO. 212 NW 4th Ave. Friday dinners & wine tasting. 360-833-9429

Spokane HUCKLEBERRY’S Natural Market, Spokane, 926 S. Monroe, (509) 624-1349. The Inland Northwest’s largest selection of the world’s wines. www.huckleberrysnaturalmarket.com

20-21 WSD

12/4/07

2:15 PM

Page 21

VINO! Wine Shop, where you don’t need to know a lot about wine. Join our discount buying club or our “Wine of the Month Club.”

Wine tasting every Friday & Saturday. Join the fun at 222 S. Washington St., Spokane, WA 800-826-5674 • 509-838-1229 • vinowine.com

YOKE’S FRESH MARKETS, Featuring Extensive NW wine selection & world cheeses.

3 locations to serve you in the Tri-Cities. Wine Specialists in all locations. Pasco: 545-5600 & Kennewick: 585-0888; West Richland: 967-8000 or go to: www.yokesfoods.com

WILLIAMS SEAFOOD MARKET & WINES, 10627 E. Sprague Ave.,Spokane. Case discounts! “Seafood our specialty.” 509-922-4868

Columbia River Gorge

YOKE’S FRESH MARKET, Spokane Remarkable NW wine selection & specialty cheese. Argonne & Montgomery • 509-343-8888

GORGE WINE MERCHANTS, Bingen, WA Wine Shop & Wine Bar. Featuring 100 great Gorge wines! 218 W. Steuben St. (Hwy 14) 509-493-5333 • www.gorgewinemerchants.com

Oregon

THE CELLAR WINE SHOPPE, Ocean Shores, 668 Ocean Shores Blvd NW. Open: Thurs-Mon. 360-289-2909 • www.thecellarwineshoppe.com

Greater Portland Area

Central Washington

ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS ** We Ship Wine! ** 509-962-8463 • EllensburgWineWorks.com THE GRAPE Quincy Wine Cellar, Quincy, WA 2 “D” St. SE. Fine wine, select beers, private labels. We ship! Open Mon-Sat.509-787-5170 1

JADE MOON 421 ⁄2 N Pearl St. Ellensburg, WA. Featuring Fine Pacific Northwest Wines & Gifts Open Tues-Sat afternoons.

509-925-1020 KITCHENSINK, 102 E. Pennsylvania, Roslyn.

Kitchen • wine • gourmet foods • wine tastings Wonderful stuff for cooking & entertaining 509-649-3406 • kitchensink@inlandnet.com LONE PINE FRUIT & ESPRESSO, 23041 Hwy 97 between Wenatchee & Chelan, 17 mi N. of Orondo. Regional wines, specialty foods, gifts. www.lonepinefruit.com • 509-682-1514 MANSON RED APPLE MARKET WINES The best local wines of the Chelan Valley in one convenient location: 1610 Wapato Way in Manson, WA near beautiful Lake Chelan.

Daily 6 a.m.-10 p.m. • (509) 687-3168 THE WINE BIN, 206 N. Mission, Wenatchee, WA. Local, NW & world-wide wines. • 509-663-3007

BRENTWOOD WINE COMPANY — Internet fine wine auctions. Titanium Schott Zwiesel crystal wholesale & retail. The Northwest's largest buyer of fine wine. For free appraisal, email wine list: appraisals@brentwoodwine.com (503) 638 WINE • www.brentwoodwine.com CORNELL WINE COMPANY, Portland, 14740 NW Cornell Rd. #90. Open Tues - Sat 10-7 pm.

Tastings: Friday & Saturday (503) 531-3981 mick@cornellwine.com • www.cornellwine.com E & R WINE SHOP, 6141 SW Macadam, Ste 104, Portland, (503) 246-6101. 2,200 different wines in stock. Tues.-Fri. 10-6:30; Sat. 9:30-6.

1-877-410-8654 erwines@earthlink.net GREAT WINE BUYS, 1515 NE Broadway, Portland, OR 97232 Open 7 days a week.

(503) 287-2897 • www.greatwinebuys.com MT. TABOR FINE WINES, 4316 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland. Tues-Sat. Great Friday tastings!

503-235-4444 • www.mttaborfinewines.com OREGON WINES ON BROADWAY, 515 SW Broadway, Portland. 503-228-4655. Select from more than 500 Oregon and Washington wines by the bottle or 30 Oregon wines by the glass/ taste in our wine bar in downtown Portland.

Web site: www.oregonwinesonbroadway.com

BONNIE’S VINE & GIFT, 26 N. First St. Yakima. WA; Open Mon-Sat. 11-8 509-972-2811. cascadewine@nwinfo.net CASCADE WINE CO., West Yakima, WA. 5110 Tieton Dr., Ste. 260 in Glenwood Square.

Open Mon - Sat: 11-8. 509 972 2811 COLUMBIA STEPPE COFFEEHOUSE. 2529 Main St in the Valley Mall, Union Gap, WA NW Wines, Gifts, Deli, Coffee, Tea. Near Macy’s.

Open daily • 509-249-0005 • columbiasteppe.com THE OLD POST OFFICE WINE CELLAR & GALLERY, 245 SE Paradise, Pullman. Large selection: wines, cheeses, beers, gourmet foods 509-338-9463 • opowines.com STEMS, NW wines & gifts, 411 E. Yakima Ave., downtown Yakima, in the Hilton Garden Inn, Tastings: Mon-Sat • 509-452-8800

COLEMAN WINES/JEWELERS, 255 SW Madison Ave., Corvallis. Fine wines & jewelry.

Daily tastings: Mon-Sat • 541-753-3721 SANTIAM WINE CO., 1930 Commercial St. Salem. Specialty wines. We ship! M-Sat 11-6.

503-589-0775 www.santiamwine.com SUNDANCE WINE CELLARS, 2470 Alder St. Eugene. Experience the most comprehensive wine shop in Eugene! Featuring fine wines from around the world and specializing in Oregon & Washington wines. Enjoy our complimentary wine tastings every Friday & Saturday 4:00-6:00 PM. Visit Oregon Wine Merchants, our online store at www.orwines.com. If you prefer speaking directly with one of our wine stewards give us a call at 800-679-4637.

Oregon Coast ALLORO WINE BAR & RESTAURANT, Bandon, OR at 375 2nd St. SE. Italian Coastal Cuisine, featuring Oregon and Italian wines.

541-347-1850. allorowinebar.com THE CELLAR ON 10TH, Astoria. Corner of 10th & Marine Dr. Finest selection of regional wines. Wine bar; weekly tastings; storage; gifts.

(503) 325-6600 • www.thecellaron10th.com E-mail us: thecellaron10th@aol.com GRAPE LEAF, 1269 Bay St., Florence, OR (541) 997-1646 gsisson@oregonfast.net

RENAISSANCE PREMIUM WINES & CIGARS 1320 NE Orenco Station Pkwy; Hillsboro, OR Large selection; wine tastings; wine bar 503-615-8676 • www.renaissancewines.com

TIFFANY’S DRUG, Bandon Shopping Center, Bandon, OR. (541) 347-4438. Over 1000 fine wines. Largest fine wine selection on the Oregon Coast. tiff33@uci.net

TASTE, 8428 SW 22nd Ave., Portland. New shop featuring NW wines. E-mail for specials.

971-235-3290. tastewineshop@yahoo.com

THE WINE SHACK, 124 N. Hemlock, Cannon Beach, (503) 436-1100. www.beachwine.com.

Oregon Coast’s best source of fine wines for over 30 years. Best of Oregon, NW, California and world! Older Bordeaux vintages available.

Southern Oregon Yakima, Tri-Cities, Walla Walla, Pullman

Columbia River Gorge THE WINE SELLERS, 514 State St., Hood River, OR 97031.Extensive selection of domestic & imported wines.Special orders, French bread, gift baskets. 541-386-4647. www.wine-sellers.com

Salem, Corvallis, Eugene

Washington Coast

CHELAN RED APPLE MARKET Wine Dept.

310 Manson Hwy. Chelan, WA. Extensive wine department; huge selection of wines from the Columbia Cascade region; New! on-line sales www.greatwines.biz • 509-682-4521

PONZI WINE BAR, Corner of Hwy 99 & 7th St., Dundee. Sample Ponzi Vineyards current releases plus selections from Oregon’s top vintners. Light fare, Illy coffee, Oregon microbrews, & gifts. Open daily. 503.554.1500.

CHATEAULIN RESTAURANT & WINE SHOPPE, 50 E. Main, Ashland, 541-488-9463.

CIN-CIN! Fine wines in downtown Roseburg, OR at 556 S.E. Jackson St. Italian specialties.

Tues-Sat. • 541-440-9007 • cincinwines.com JACKSONVILLE INN WINE & GIFT SHOP Extensive list of hard-to-find wines. Dinner guests can select from over 2,000 wines (541) 899-1900 (800) 321-9344 • jacksonvilleinn.com

Yamhill County OREGON WINE TASTING ROOM & Bellevue Market, Oregon’s original wine tasting room!

• Tasting Room open daily, 11 am - 5:45 pm • Bellevue Market open daily, 9 am - 6 pm 7 mi SW of McMinnville on Hwy 18 at Bellevue 503-843-3787 • owtr2003@yahoo.com www.oregonwinetastingroom.com

Eastern Oregon GREAT PACIFIC WINES & COFFEE CO., 403 S. Main St., Pendleton, OR. (541) 276-1350 Mon-Thurs: 10-8; Fri: 10-9; Sat: 8:30 am-8 pm

Idaho BOISE CO-OP WINE SHOP, 915 N 8th St. Boise, ID. Fri tastings; over 3000 worldwide wines; case discounts; exceptional wine club; dinners; 208-472-4519 www.boisecoopwineshop.com • MUSIC OF THE VINE • Fine Wine • Quality Food • Live Music 2805 Blaine, Ste 130; Caldwell, ID 83605 (located in The Willows business complex) (208) 454-1228 www.musicofthevine.com YOKE’S FRESH MARKET, Sandpoint, ID Bonner Mall • 208-263-4613

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

1:28 PM

Page 22

WINE NEWS

Winemaker, educator Clarke dies, 57 WAITSBURG, Wash. — A well-respected viticulturist and teacher died Nov. 29 at his home in Waitsburg.

Stan Clarke, 57, was an instrumental part of the Washington wine industry since the 1970s and dedicated himself to teaching the subject he loved.

“He was the most caring, giving person,” said his wife, Carol Clarke.

She found her husband dead of natural causes in their home after he hadn’t arrived at Walla Walla Community College where he worked.

Clarke’s knowledge and dedication to the wine industry brought him much respect in wine circles.

“He was an enormous part of the industry and touched the industry in more ways than most,” said Coke Roth, a prominent wine judge and longtime friend.

Clarke got his start in Washington

22

wine after graduating with a bachelor of science degree in viticulture from the University of California-Davis. He began working for Chateau Ste. Michelle, then helped found Quail Run — now Covey Run — where he was a winemaker and general manager.

Clarke also worked as a Clarke winemaker and general manager at Hyatt Vineyards in Zillah.

“He had a great palate,” Roth said. “He was very creative and broad thinking.”

Clarke eventually decided to get his master’s degree in teaching from Washington State University and taught middle schoolers in the Grandview School District. He stayed active with the wine community, writing columns about wine and judging.

After about eight years, he brought

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

his love for viticulture to Walla Walla Community College, where he helped start the Institute for Enology and Viticulture program.

“He was extraordinarily dedicated to teaching,” said Myles Anderson, the founding program director. “He’s been kind of a giant” in viticulture education.

Friends described Clarke as easygoing, intelligent and endlessly giving of his time.

“He was a mentor to a lot of kids,” said Wade Wolfe, who owns Thurston Wolfe Winery with his wife Becky Yeaman. “He was a very dynamic person. Just a great guy.”

Clarke introduced Wolfe and Yeaman in 1985, Wolfe said. The couples were good friends.

“It’s a huge loss both to the industry and the community,” he said.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

11:49 AM

Page 23

WINE NEWS

Ste. Michelle hires Aussie to take over white winemaking Bob Bertheau didn’t need a headhunter to find his new white winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle.

And he didn’t even have to pay the airfare for the interview.

In fact, Wendy Stuckey flew into Seattle from Australia last summer merely to attend the international Riesling Rendezvous at the Woodinville, Wash., winery and renew her acquaintance with Bertheau. They met in 1993 when she was an intern and he was the assistant winemaker at Chalk Hill Winery in Healdsburg, Calif.

“We reciprocated the visit in 1995 and have stayed in touch over the years, and I have always been a fan of her wines in Australia,” Bertheau said.

“When she attended our Riesling Rendezvous event last June, it led to an unexpected reunion and interesting discussions about Chateau Ste. Michelle and Washington winemaking.”

Stuckey, 45, has been viewed as one of Australia’s best white winemakers and one of the country’s best wine judges. She worked in Fosters Group at famed Wolf Blass Winery for the past 15 years and received credit for some of the company’s top white wines, most notably the Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling. Before joining Wolf Blass in 1992, she made wine at Seppelt, also in the Barossa Valley.

“Having worked with many different Riesling vineyards in Australia over the past 15 years, I developed a passion for the variety,” she said. “I wanted to work in another part of the world where fantastic Riesling is being made.

I am excited about the chance to make different Riesling styles, which we weren’t able to make in Australia, especially ice wine. I am truly looking forward to broadening my personal and professional experience by learning about and making wines from Washington.”

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

23

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

1:34 PM

Page 24

WINE NEWS

Tsillan Riesling tops in Tri-Cities Tsillan Cellars of Chelan, Wash., won best of show for its 2006 Riesling in the 30th Tri-Cities Wine Festival competition in mid-November.

Winning unanimous double gold medals were Barrister Winery for its 2005 Cabernet Franc, Hyatt Vineyards for its 2006 Winter Harvest Riesling, Pacific Rim Winemakers for its 2006 Chenin Blanc and Lost River Winery for its 2005 Syrah.

Complete results are at www.winepressnw.com/medals

Jackson-Triggs scores 10 golds Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate of Oliver, B.C., continued its dominance of the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival judging by winning 10 gold medals in the 27th annual competition.

Sandhill Wines won six gold medals, and See Ya Later Ranch (formerly Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards) won four gold medals.

Complete results are at www.owfs.com

Firesteed wins Oregon State Fair Firesteed Cellars of Rickreall, Ore., won best of show for its 2005 Pinot Gris at the Oregon State Fair in August.

24

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Griffin Creek’s 2004 Syrah from the Rogue Valley won best red, and Orchard Heights’ 2005 Late Harvest Pinot Gris from the Willamette Valley won best dessert wine.

Complete results are at www.oregonstatefair.org

Walla Walla winery closing doors Colvin Vineyards of Walla Walla, Wash., has decided to shutter its doors after eight years.

Owners Mark and JoAnne Colvin built a winery south of Walla Walla, then moved their operation to the Walla Walla Airport two years ago, taking over the building vacated when Reininger Winery moved west of town.

Colvin has produced award-winning red blends, Cabernet Francs, Syrahs and Cabernet Sauvignons. However, it is best known for championing Carménère, an obscure red Bordeaux variety that was considered all but extinct before being rediscovered in Chile. Now, some is planted in Walla Walla, and a handful of wineries are making the spicy red wine. Colvin was the first winery in Washington to make it as a single-variety wine, and famed British wine writer Jancis Robinson once declared it the best Carménère she’d ever tasted.

Colvin did not crush grapes this fall and will stay open until its wine inventory is sold, which it expects to be by spring.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

1:30 PM

Page 25

WINE NEWS

Hinman family starts new Oregon winery The Hinman family was a pioneer in the fledgling Oregon wine industry, launching Hinman Vineyards in 1979.

The label became part of Silvan Ridge, and the Hinman family has not been involved for several years.

Now, Doyle Hinman and his family have launched a new winery called Five H, named for the five Hinman family members involved.

The first wine is a 2006 Riesling using grapes from Balcom & Moe Vineyard of Pasco, Wash.

Hollywood star buys into B.C. winery Hollywood star Jason Priestley has decided to get into the wine business by buying into a winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.

The former Beverly Hills 90210 star is a B.C. native who has since become a U.S. citizen. He and a group of investors are purchasing Black Hills Estate Winery on the Black Sage Bench.

The winery is noted for a red blend called Nota Bene and a dessert wine called Sequentia.

Priestley is an investor in Vinequest Wine Partners, a group put together to purchase Black Hills.

CedarCreek expands vineyard holdings CedarCreek Estate Winery has purchased a 35-acre former orchard in the south Okanagan Valley, which expands the Kelowna, B.C., winery’s holdings to 150 acres.

The land overlooks Osoyoos Lake along the U.S. border, an area known for growing top red Bordeaux and Rhône varieties.

In 2002, the winery bought a 25-acre vineyard near Osoyoos. It bought a 40-acre vineyard near Peachland in 1995. And it planted its estate 50-acre vineyard in 1987.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

25

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

1:25 PM

Page 26

WINE VIEWS

‘Bargain’ Bob goes hunting for Oregon Pinot By ‘BARGAIN’ BOB WOEHLER It wasn’t easy, but with a little bit of Web surfing, ol’ Bargain Bob found some worthy Pinot Noir from Oregon for $20 or less.

At first, I thought it would be as tough as pulling hen’s teeth to find a good bargain Pinot Noir in Oregon. But my search reaped rewards, and I would easily recommend a half-dozen good to outstanding Oregon Pinot Noirs selling

in the $15 to $20 range.

Owen Roe 2006 O’Reilly Pinot Noir, $15:

Named after winemaker David O’Reilly, this Newberg winery has achieved almost cult status among Pinot lovers.

Wonderful oak, cherries and a hint of sage greet you, followed by a luscious, smooth mouthful of cherries and plums with tons of acidity to match well with a variety of foods.

Jezebel 2006 Pinot Noir, $18 (screwcap):

Made by Daedalus Cellars of Dundee, this gem really grows on you. Opening with hints of cherries, forest floor and spice, this one shows off flavors of fresh strawberries, cherries and plums with great acids.

Firesteed 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $18: This wine company, which makes

wines in Oregon and Washington, is known for its inexpensive Pinot Noir.

Brilliant cherry color leads to mostly cherry aromas mixed with oak. The tongue savors more bright cherries, plenty of acids and smooth tannins.

Erath 2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon, $19 (screwcap): Lovely cranberry with a tiny ring

of orange colors. Big cherry and plum flavors are complemented by good oak and cherry aromas. Nice acids for food.

Cooper Hill 2006 Pinot Noir, $16: Made

by Cooper Mountain Winery near Beaverton, this wine is an immediate charmer with brilliant bright cherry color and aromas of violets and white pepper laced with raspberries. Flavors include more raspberries with tons of fruit and a full rich finish. This also is listed as organic, biodynamic and certified sustainably produced.

Evesham Wood 2006, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $18: This release by this

Salem producer shows off cherry candy aromas with some earthy essence.

Flavors are of wild strawberries, cherries and more herbs.

Chateau Bianca 2005 Cellar Select Pinot Noir, $20: Interesting curry spice and

fruity aromas. Flavors include black cherries and more spice. It would be a nice match for Indian curry dishes.

BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.

26

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

1:34 PM

Page 27

WINE NEWS

Oregon updates 30-year-old labeling rules The Oregon wine industry updated its 30-year-old statewide wine labeling rules after a long and often contentious battle that pitted longtime winemakers with those newer to the industry.

Several issues were at the heart of the changes. The most significant was the ability for 18 grape varieties to be blended with up to 25 percent of another grape.

For example, a Tempranillo can now be blended with 25 percent of Zinfandel or Syrah and still be labeled a Tempranillo. This change is the same as federal regulations used in other states, including Washington and California.

Steve Pharo, director of the Oregon Liquor Control Commission, said, “These updated rules clear the way for Oregon’s diverse wine industry to stay competitive in the national and international marketplace. Wine producers from every region of Oregon gave us guidance in creating these rules and compromised when necessary to keep the industry unified.”

Such varieties as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling must contain 90 percent of those grapes to be labeled as such.

David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards in Newberg, said, “With these new labeling regulations, we honor the original intent of the group that developed these standards 30 years ago.

Today’s changes preserve what we accomplished in 1977 but acknowledge the new realities of the industry.”

Earl Jones, owner of Abacela Winery in Roseburg, a supporter of changing the blending rules, said, “Old World wine regions with a warmer or Mediterranean climate have long known that blending leads to more complex, higher-quality wines and have developed reputations based on that principle. In Oregon, we grow some of these same warm-climate varieties, and our goal is to create wines from these grapes that can compete with similar wines from anywhere in the world.”

Also of note: • Oregon wineries may now call W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Pinot Gris by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio.

• Oregon wineries may now call the Rhône variety Durif by its more common name, Petite Sirah.

• A winery may put up to 5 percent of

wine from another region and still label it as from the primary appellation. Prior to the rule changes, a wine from the Columbia Gorge, for example, had to contain 100 percent juice from that AVA. The federal regulation is 85 percent.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

27

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

11:54 AM

Page 28

BOOK REVIEWS

New books celebrate food, cuisine, Northwest lifestyle Menus from an Orchard Table: Celebrating the Food and Wine of the Okanagan, by Heidi Noble, Whitecap, 2007, $35

It’s difficult not to find Heidi Noble’s enthusiasm for food and wine encouraging and intoxicating. Eat her food, drink her wine and read her writing, and you’ll find yourself wanting to hang around Joie, the winery she and her husband, Michael Dinn, have built.

Noble’s new book, Menus from an Orchard Table, is a celebration of what she defines as “Okanagan Valley cuisine,” that is, food using fresh regional ingredients. The book is beautifully illustrated with photos by Chris Mason Stearns.

Noble is a young woman, but she already has a lifetime of experience as a professionally trained chef, a sommeli-

er, a grape grower, a farmer and a winemaker.

She and Dinn used to work in the restaurant business in the Vancouver area and moved to the Okanagan to follow their dream of owning a winery whose products focused on their ability to pair with regional cuisine.

When they moved to the Naramata Bench, they launched the Joie Cooking School and Outdoor Orchard Dinners

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Wine Club

Two Bottles of select

Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our

“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.

503-620-6691 800-288-3008

www.pnwc.com 28

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

22-33 Front of Book

12/6/07

2:23 PM

Page 29

BOOK REVIEWS on their five-acre farm. Participants were able to go to the local farmers market with Noble, come back to the farm, do all the food preparation and eat the meal.

Menus from an Orchard Table includes an essay by Noble on the meaning of regional cuisine, the menus from her Orchard Dinners, profiles of various food and wine producers and dozens upon dozens of amazing recipes.

If you want to gain a deeper understanding of what regional cuisine means, pick up a copy of Menus from an Orchard Table.

Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia, by Braiden Rex-Johnson, Wiley, 2007, $35.

We’ll start with the disclaimer: Braiden Rex-Johnson writes a food-pairing column for us, and Jackie Johnston (who shot all the photos for this book) shoots most of our photos and designs the feature sections. We would like to think we somewhat influenced the direction they took with this book, which explores and celebrates the same regions of the Pacific Northwest we do in these pages.

Yes, we might be a little bit biased about the writing, photography and the subject.

That aside, this volume is a huge undertaking, as Rex-Johnson tackles an emerging style of food preparation known as Pacific Northwest cuisine.

She was inspired by many of the deliciously fresh and simple meals she shared with winemakers throughout the Northwest, who gathered local ingredients and turned them into memorable moments.

She leaves her downtown Seattle condo and travels thousands of miles along quiet backcountry roads in search of those chefs, farmers, winemakers and artisan food producers who W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

29

22-33 Front of Book

12/6/07

2:24 PM

Page 30

BOOK REVIEWS are shaping our region’s food style. The resulting book is stunning.

The only thing to ask is this: Do you keep it on the coffee table or in the kitchen?

WineTrails of Washington: A Guide for Uncorking your Memorable Wine Tour, by Steve Roberts, South Slope Productions, 2007, $20.

This book is quite an undertaking, as it puts together 32 tours through Washington wine country, exploring every corner of the Evergreen State with wineries. With 228 wineries, author Steve Roberts covers about half the wineries in the state — and most that have regular tasting room hours.

Roberts did the research, came up with the itineraries, took the photos, wrote the text and produced this thick (608 pp) book. A ton of work went into this book, and it is loaded with information, including suggestions on where to stay and directions to each winery.

Those who spend free weekends touring Washington wine country will want to have a copy of this in their glove box.

A Chef’s Bounty: Celebrating Oregon’s Cuisine, by William King and Rick Schafer, Arnica Publishing, 2008, $30.

Oregon is blessed with wide-open spaces and plentiful ingredients. It’s also blessed with many talented chefs who have migrated from other regions because they want to work with the fresh seafood, herbs, fruits, vegetables, fungi and meats available on a seasonal basis.

William King, who oversees culinary development for McCormick and Schmick’s restaurants, is the author of two other cookbooks and is nationally acclaimed for his abilities with seafood.

Lifelong Oregonian Rick Schafer took the stunning photography for this collection of about 150 recipes.

The recipes focus on regionality and 30

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

the ingredients available to the chefs from various top restaurants throughout Oregon. Sprinkled throughout is information on various crops, from berries, vegetables and herbs to seafood and meats. Happily, this book doesn’t just focus on the more populous west side of the Cascades. Rather, it makes a grand tour of the state.

Cooking with the Wines of Washington/ Cooking with the Wines of Oregon, by Troy and Cheryl-Lynn Townsin, Whitecap, 2007, $25 each.

Troy and Cheryl-Lynn Townsin continue their gastronomic tour of the Pacific Northwest with these two new books.

Two years ago, we reviewed their book Cooking with BC Wine (Polyglot, 2005), and now they have headed south of the border to collaborate with wineries in Washington and Oregon.

Each of these volumes features about 100 recipes, most of which come directly from participating wineries and are meant to pair with a specific wine. The books also provide basic information about each winery.

These books are loaded with tidbits and amusing quotes. Wine lovers should be sure to add these to their collections of cookbooks.

Wine Types: Discover Your Inner Grape, by Maureen Kelly, Vintage Sentiments, 2006, $11.

Maureen Kelly of Birch Bay, Wash., has developed this fun book that takes the popular Myers-Briggs personality tests and adds a glass of wine. You can take the test in the book or online and learn what you “wine type” is, based on your personality and the perceived personality of various wines.

The Two-Lane Gourmet: Fine Wine Trails, Superb Inns and Exceptional Dining Through California, Oregon and Washington, by Tom Snyder, St. Martin’s Griffin, 2007, $17.

If you prefer your travels to take you on the road less taken, Tom Snyder’s book is just for you. This 250-page book takes you on a journey up the West Coast, stopping at wineries, B&Bs and restaurants in out-of-the-way places.

This isn’t just a guide book. Snyder takes his time, providing anecdotes, insights and conversations with the people he meets along the way. By the time W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

22-33 Front of Book

12/4/07

11:55 AM

Page 31

BOOK REVIEWS same folks.

Wine Across America: A Photographic Road Trip, by Charles O’Rear, Ten Speed Press, 2007, $35.

Since 2002, every state in America has at least one winery. Some, like those of us on the West Coast, have hundreds.

Charles O’Rear, a superb photographer who has captured various wine regions in previous books, sets out to chronicle all of the wine regions in the United States.

The results are deliciously stunning photography of people, vineyards, grapes and buildings. O’Rear’s work helps us to realize that those of us who are in more traditional wine regions than, say, South Dakota, are no more or less blessed with the passion for wine.

Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Guide 2008, Harcourt, 2007, $15.

Respected British wine writer Oz Clarke has put out his annual guide to the world’s wines. It’s difficult to imagine how one captures the entire world of wine in such a slim volume, but Clarke manages to hit the highlights thanks to his in-depth knowledge of Old and New World wine regions. The focus is on Europe, but Clarke gives his props to Australia, South America and the United States as well.

Michael Broadbent’s Pocket Vintage Wine Companion, Harcourt, 2007, $22.

Michael Broadbent is one of the world’s most respected wine people, especially in the Old World, as his lifelong focus has been on European wines for his columns in Decanter magazine for the past three decades. Broadbent became a Master of Wine nearly a halfcentury ago, and his knowledge of French wines likely is unprecedented.

This volume, with a subtitle of “Over Fifty Years of Tasting over Three Centuries of Wine” says a lot about what is inside. He includes thousands of tasting notes from wines he’s tasted over his half-century career in the wine trade.

In this book, his only venture outside of Europe is to California, so those looking for Broadbent’s thoughts on Northwest wines will be disappointed.

— Andy Perdue W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

31

22-33 Front of Book

12/6/07

2:02 PM

Page 32

DVD REVIEWS

Documentary savors, explores regional cuisine Tableland: A Culinary Expedition, by Craig Noble, Pixel One Productions, 2007, $20

Filmmaker Craig Noble might live in the big city of Vancouver, B.C., but his heart and soul are in the small farms, wineries and artisan food producers across North America.

Tableland, a documentary that chronicles Noble’s two-year journey across Canada and the United States, forces us to look at the food on our table in a different light. He explores many themes, from organic and sustainable practices to supporting small farmers.

At the same time, we are inspired to visit more farmers markets, prepare fabulous meals, drink great wine and perhaps even join a local Slow Food convivium.

Noble, whose sister Heidi is coowner/winemaker of Joie Wines in Naramata, B.C. (and whose book we review on Page 28), shows great passion throughout his journey across the continent and back.

If you care about regional cuisine and wine, you will want to watch Tableland.

Uncorked! Wine Made Simple, host Ted Allen, Grape Media, 2007, $50

This slickly produced set of three DVDs is narrated by Ted Allen, who was the food-and-wine guy on the TV show Queer Eye for the Straight Guy. Of the six episodes on the three discs, the first is the least geo-centric, as it explores different wine varieties, how wines are made and why they smell so different.

Episode 2 focuses on the Napa Valley and discusses the famous “Judgment of Paris” tasting in 1976 that put California on the global wine map.

Episodes 3 and 4 stay in California, first going to Sonoma County, then the Central Coast.

Episodes 5 and 6 head to France to learn about the world’s most important wine region.

Each disc includes bonus materials that provide basic wine tips and insights, as well as food preparations and wine pairings.

These are so well done, let’s hope the producers decide to venture into other parts of the wine world for future episodes.

— Andy Perdue 32

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

22-33 Front of Book

12/2/07

6:26 PM

Page 33

34-43 victoria

12/6/07

2:29 PM

Page 34

Wine Lovers Guide to Victoria & B Y K E N R O B E RT S O N

PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

IN THIS DAY OF INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTS AND INTERSTATE HIGHWAYS, SELDOM DO WE CATCH OUR FIRST SIGHT OF A CITY FROM THE SEA. Brilliant sunshine sparkling off the Inner Harbor’s waves and the magnificent silhouette of The Empress Hotel stamped a breathtaking impression on my wife and me as we sailed into Victoria, British Columbia, aboard the MV Coho for our first visit on our 30th wedding anniversary.

The week that followed and our return visit this past summer merely polished this shining city’s luster as we walked its streets and alleyways, whether diving into its quirky breakfast spots or elegantly casual restaurants.

A morning cannot go bad when it starts at color-splashed Rebar with its oats ‘n’

34

Va

34-43 victoria

&

12/6/07

2:30 PM

Page 35

Vancouver Island

groats and sumptuous toast or at Molé with its smoky-sweet bacon and nicely herbed pesto hashbrowns. And every evening was an adventure in New World wines and cuisine, with Vancouver Island and Okanagan white wines so crisp your tastebuds wanted to snap and red wines lush with the fruit of a lingering summer day.

The scenery is as striking as the sharp crest of snowbound Mount Baker from a southeast vista from Oak Bay Harbor and as surprising as the sudden sight of two dappled fawns bouncing across a backroad behind their mother.

Haven’t visited Victoria yet? Well, here’s a guide to its island wineries, its coastal cuisine, its comfortable lodgings and some of the places where you’ll find its most wonderful asset — the warm, friendly people.

35

34-43 victoria

12/6/07

F E AT U R E

2:04 PM

Page 36

victoria

&

vancouver island

WINERIES IN A WINE WORLD WHERE WASHINGTON and Oregon, with their hundreds of wineries and award-winning wines, still are viewed as nouveau kids on the block, where does that leave Vancouver Island and the nearby Gulf Island wineries?

Largely, and undeservedly, unknown outside of British Columbia. And that’s a shame. For a pair of weeklong summer visits to Victoria and the wineries that surround one of the finest Northwest cities for wines lovers offer ample evidence that an adventurous and innovative group of wine grape growers and winemakers are creating a new territory and carving out a unique terroir for New World wines.

Nestled in the Cowichan Valley about 45 minutes north of Victoria and along the Saanich Peninsula — a half-hour’s drive from Victoria — are a string of about 20 wineries.

They are, for the most part, fledgling and still experimenting to find out how to craft fine wines in a land never envisioned in the Old World tradition. But they are building an industry, often from careful experimentation with German vines, many of them various crossbreeds of Riesling, planted and grown in the two areas and on the nearby Gulf Islands of Saturna, Salt Spring and Pender. The varieties are as common as Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir and as exotic as Leon Millot and Zweigelt, both of which you can find on tiny Salt Spring Island.

With meaderies and cideries thrown in, the winery count is perhaps three dozen, with licenses pending for more. They are supplanting former orchards that once supplied the province’s fresh fruit before irrigation came to eastern B.C.’s Okanagan Valley and are carved out of steep, rocky slopes that once were timbered and slope 36

The balsamic vinegar barrels at VenturiSchulze Vineyards are thicker than wine barrels in order to stand up to the long aging process of vinegar.

Andy Johnston is the co-owner and winemaker at Averill Creek Vineyard in Duncan.

down to breathtaking views of the strait between Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland. For its views and ambitions alone, Pender Island’s

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Morning Bay Vineyard and Estate Winery, owned by Keith Watt and Barbara Reid, is worth the 40-minute B.C. Ferries ride from

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

34-43 victoria

12/4/07

12:10 PM

Page 37

victoria

&

vancouver island

F E AT U R E

Hans Kiltz is the co-owner and winemaker at Blue Grouse Estate Winery in Duncan.

Marley Farm Winery, Church & State Wines and Starling Lane Winery are some of the wine producers in the Victoria area.

Swartz Bay. The wineries range from the elegant 50-person tasting bar of Church & State Wines just a short

Alderlea Vineyards in Duncan produces a white blend called Angelique that is peach tinted.

hop from downtown Victoria on the way to Butchart Gardens to such tiny operations as Garry Oaks Winery and Salt Spring

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

Vineyards, each with barely enough tasting space for eight or 10 visitors.

B.C. Ferries will deliver the adventurous to the dock not far from

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

37

34-43 victoria

12/6/07

F E AT U R E

2:05 PM

Page 38

victoria

&

vancouver island

these two Salt Spring Island wineries in about 35 minutes.

One word of advice. Many of the wineries close up their bistros or have irregular hours from November through March. Call ahead to avoid disappointment. And even during the peak season, some of the smaller wineries require visitors to call ahead to arrange a visit.

No matter. For your trouble, you’ll find an array of unusual wines and wineries unlike any place in North America. They’re as funky and freestyle as Marley Farm Winery, with its yellow smiley-face logo tucked under a Bob Marley cap and sporting springy black braids. Its wines are as free-spirited as their kinsman Bob’s Jamaican music, as traditional as Pinot Grigio and as startling as a wine made from kiwi fruit. And the winemakers are as disciplined as Venturi-Schulze Vineyards, where a family operation toils to ensure nary a weed can sprout among the midsummer rows of precisely primped vines. And where one bonus to arranging a visit is a chance to sample and buy balsamic vinegar aged step by step in its own miniature barrels of chestnut, oak, cherry, acacia and ash.

The winemakers arrived from around the globe. Giordano Venturi is from Northern Italy, his wife Marilyn from Australia. Hans Kiltz, who owns Blue Grouse Vineyards with his wife Evangeline, has German ancestors, a trait he shares with much of his wine, which includes Müller-Thurgau and Ortega.

John Kelly of GlenTerra Vineyards sports a Scotsman’s wit as dry as his Pinot Blanc, while Andy Johnston of Averill Creek was born on a Welsh hill farm and worked in vineyards and wineries in Italy, New Zealand and Australia. The high-on-a-hill view from Averill is as breathtaking as a New Zealand vista and his white wines offer a similar crisp nature.

A stop at Cherry Point Vineyards will present wines grown with methods as innovative as the 38

plastic sheeting that wraps the spring vines to protect them from frost and techniques as ancient as the stones piled at the base of the vines to soak up the sun’s heat. Stop into Cherry Point’s excellent winery bistro, and you may discover you’re lunching next to elders of the Cowichan Tribes, the winery’s owners and British Columbia’s largest single First Nation.

Chalet Estate Winery offers an ambitious array of lean, crisp white wines and red wines as hefty as a lush Syrah, plus, if you’re lucky, a chance to see a nesting pair of bald eagles from the back patio. Vignetti Zanata offers the charm of a restored 1903 farmhouse, plus a restaurant and wine bar. At Starling Lane Winery, Jerry and Sherry Mussio welcome visitors to an array of wines from a brut-style sparkler to a blackberry port, all vinted from the grapes grown by the Mussios and two other couples who are their partners. And tucked into the forest of the Cowichan is Echo Valley Vineyards, with a bevy of wines based on familiar German and French grapes from Chardonnay to Gamay Noir.

Visiting all the wineries of the islands, the Saanich Peninsula and the Cowichan Valley was beyond our allotted time. But avid wine lovers will want to try to find time for Alderlea Vineyards, Divino Estate Winery, Godfrey Brownell Vineyards, Honeymoon Bay Blackberry Winery, Malahat Estate Winery, Newton Ridge, Saturna Island Vineyards, Thetis Island, Vicori, and Winchester Cellars. Several meaderies and cideries also are sprinkled through the area north of Victoria.

If you go for a comprehensive tour, you can fend for yourself by driving the winding backroads and figuring out the ferry routes. But be advised if you drive, deer are common along the back-country lanes, and they assume the passing cars will watch out for them.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

For the price of two glasses of wine you can have any bottle on their list opened at Brasserie L’Ecole.

Better yet, find a wine tour guide.

We used Vancouver Island Wine Tours run by Leslie Goodall, a Victoria native. We found her knowledge of the area and of B.C. Ferries, her rapport with the winery staffs and owners, and her lunch suggestions invaluable and well worth her daily fee of $60 to $85 (Canadian) per person, depending on a tour’s length in hours and miles. The price includes tasting samples, pickup and transportation. You buy your own lunch.

She and all the winery owners and staff members we met shared a common trait. They offer a warm welcome and display an adventurous spirit captured in the wines they make.

RESTAUR ANTS I SUPPOSE WE COULD HAVE SIMPLY FOLlowed our noses to a good restaurant in Victoria.

The downtown is full of al fresco eateries where garlic, seafood and grilling meats waft onto the summer sidewalks.

But it really was simpler than fol-

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

34-43 victoria

12/4/07

2:28 PM

Page 39

victoria

&

vancouver island

F E AT U R E

554 Pandora St., Victoria.

FOR LUNCH T H E TA PA B A R

Camille’s features local agriculture and B.C. wines.

Whether you have lunch or dinner, try the pozole chicken soup with white hominy, lime and jalapenos with a glass of Gray Monk Gewürztraminer from the extensive wine list. We ate there several times, sampled an array of tapas and enjoyed them all. Two Washington State University students who were on a wine tour with us also tried it at our suggestion and ended up sitting nearby. They also were wowed by the food, the price and the array of cocktails. Try an El Cosmopolitano.

620 Trounce Alley, Victoria, www.tapabar.ca DOCKSIDE GRILL

lowing our noses. Everyone we chatted with — servers, our wine tour guide, the hotel concierge staff and the winemakers — had suggestions.

My wife and I happily chased down as many of them as our feet and our time would allow in our two weeks of visiting. We ate at all the eateries on this list, a few of them two or three times. And there’s not one I won’t try to visit the next time we’re in Victoria.

Note that many of the winery restaurants are closed January through March. A check of their Web sites or a phone call will yield up-todate information.

FOR BREAKFAST F I R E & WAT E R G R I L L

We tried the buffet at Fire & Water Grill in the Victoria Marriott Inner Harbour where we stayed and found the breads tasty, the bacon crisp, the fruit fresh and its over-easy eggs just right. But as good as it was, here are three places where breakfast is more adventuresome, all suggested by hotel staff.

728 Humboldt Street, Victoria, 250-480-3828, www.marriottvictoria.com

W I L L I E ’ S B A K E RY

Try for a seat on the outdoor terrace. The breakfast fare includes outstanding whole grain breads, several choices for tea and breakfast meats. And the potatoes are perfect.

521 Johnson St., Victoria, 250-381-8414 R E B A R M O D E R N R E S TA U R A N T

It’s vegetarian, with bright colors and oilcloth on the tables to brighten your day. The juice bar offers something for everyone, from vegetables to fruits to herbs and even a bit of olive oil. The breakfast juice options make a great eye-opener.

The oats & groats cereal and the extensive selection of organic breads from Cascadia Wholefoods Bakery will keep you full ‘til lunch.

50 Bastion Square, Victoria, 250-361-9223, www.rebarmodernfood.com MOLÉ

The crisp black pepper bacon, herbed hashbrowns and eggs over easy all were perfect. And the customers, from balding pony-tailed boomer guys to youths so callow their piercings and tattoos likely were still tender, were eclectic and more.

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

We dropped in for a quick lunch here during an afternoon of tasting.

You’ll find a good B.C. wine list, lovely outdoor patio view of the yacht club harbor area, excellent salads, chowder, crabcakes and fish and chips. A fine spot for an afternoon stopover. If the breeze is blowing in, you may want a sweater.

2320 Harbour Road, Sidney, 250-656-0828, docksidegrill@shaw.ca Z A N AT TA W I N E RY R E S TA U R A N T

Sample the wines and lunch on the wraparound veranda of the turn-of-the-century home. The cuisine focuses on country fare, with fresh-baked, whole grain breads, crisp salads. If you stop to try the wines, you won’t be sorry you had lunch as well.

5039 Marshall Road, Duncan, 250-748-2338, www.zanatta.ca C H E R RY P O I N T V I N E YA R D S B I S T R O

We took a break from tasting for a luscious lunch, sampling the generous antipasto plate, the fresh fruit and cheese plate and the Caesar salad. Cherry Point’s wines are, of course, also available. And, if you prefer, there’s also a brunch menu.

840 Cherry Point Road, Cobble Hill,

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

39

34-43 victoria

12/6/07

F E AT U R E

2:06 PM

Page 40

victoria

&

vancouver island

250-743-1272, www.cherrypointvineyards.com B I S T R O L A P O M M E R A I E AT M E R R I D A L E E S TAT E C I D E RY

One of the province’s best-known cider houses includes a fabulous onpremise restaurant featuring more than 30 wines from the islands, the Okanagan and Lower Mainland alongside an array of estate cider offerings.

The incredibly juicy lamb burger with rosemary, served open-faced on ciabatta, requires a knife and will rival any burger you’ve ever had.

1230 Merridale Road, Cobble Hill, 250-743-4293, www.merridalecider.com

FOR DINNER CAMILLE’S

Camille’s is a cozy getaway just two blocks from the inner harbour in Bastion Square. Its basement-andbrick ambiance gives it a romantic and European feel, but this 15-yearold establishment supports Vancouver Island agriculture and wines from B.C. Particular pride is taken in the nightly “Tasting Menu,” a five-course meal featuring local ingredients and paired with five B.C. wines for $75. One page of Camille’s extensive wine list is dedicated to Kettle Valley Winery on the Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley.

45 Bastion Square, Victoria, 250-381-3433, www.camilles.ca F I R E & WAT E R

Fire & Water at the Marriott surprised us with cuisine that stands out from the average hotel fare. We enjoyed maple and smoked lavender salmon for an appetizer, an incredible mushroom soup with truffle oil before the main course and two perfectly seared seafood selections — scallops and albacore tuna, the latter with buckwheat soba noodles. The B.C. wine list at this fish and chop house is extensive and well chosen.

728 Humboldt Street, Victoria, 250-480-3828, www.marriottvictoria.com

40

IL TERRAZZO RISTORANTE

Right behind Willie’s Bakery in Waddington Alley, Il Terrazzo’s old brick building and patio offer just about anything you could ask for in a great Italian restaurant. The waiters are friendly and attentive, the salads crisp and innovative. The bread has but one fault: It’s almost impossible not to spoil your dinner once you’ve nibbled the salted crust and the rosemary, not to mention a slathering of olive tapanade. The wine program claims 1,000 selections from 15 countries. The list of main courses is extensive, from Tonno — that’s a pan-seared ahi filet with a ginger and soy glaze — to Bistecca di Bufalo, as in buffalo steak.

The Fairmont Empress can be seen as the ferry docks in Victoria.

555 Johnson St., Victoria, 250-361-0028, www.ilterrazzo.com B R A S S E R I E L’ E C O L E

The absolute best french fries my wife and I have ever tasted. My sirloin was perfect, and she raved over her medium rare albacore tuna with mashed golden potatoes in creme fraiche with green onions. Our note card about the meal shouts, “Best Meal of the Week!!” And they’ll open any bottle of wine on their extensive wine list for the price of two glasses (which is determined by multiplying the cost of the whole bottle by 40 percent). Take a moment before dinner to order a cocktail. We enjoyed a pair of sparkling wine concoctions.

Sadly, the wine list is quite lacking in Northwest representation.

1715 Government St., Victoria, 250-475-6260, www.lecole.ca WILD SAFFRON BISTRO

The decor makes a bold statement with wood beams, oak plank hardwood floors, brick red walls and open kitchen. The generous wine list features lots of B.C. wines. And the food lived up to the setting. The Wild Saffron lobster bisque was spicy and salty with subtle fish flavors, sherry and cream. The ceviche featured scallops and shrimp with salsa,

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

and our main course of Tuna Nicoise was cooked exactly to our order and served with capers, quail eggs and olives over a bed of lentils. If you have a beer lover along, there’s a brew pub adjacent, all part of the Swans Suite Hotel.

506 Pandora St., Victoria, 250-361-3310, www.swanshotel.com/bistro.php BON ROUGE BISTRO

Bon Rouge was the new kid on the block when we ate there last summer, but they already were getting it right. Inside and out on the patio, the place was bustling. The decor, is, unsurprisingly, rouge. The bread and salads were good, the duck confit and the roasted chicken excellent. The wine list is good for B.C.’s Okanagan wines and most of the world, but short on anything from the rest of the Northwest.

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

34-43 victoria

12/4/07

12:15 PM

Page 41

victoria

&

vancouver island

F E AT U R E

you can arrange facials, body wraps and massages, all for $$95-$150 CDN. Rates: $149 to $1,000 CDN, the latter for the Olympic Suite 463 Belleville St., Victoria, 250-380-4487, www.hotelgrandpacific.com T H E FA I R M O N T E M P R E S S

For visitors arriving at Victoria by ferry on a sunny summer day, it’s hard not to be taken by the dazzling view of the city’s Inner Harbor and the majestic Empress, a four-star hotel that stands barely off the water’s edge.

The 477-room hotel’s striking turn-of-the-century architecture and name both hark back to an elegance that simply captivates visitors.

And it maintains its reputation for setting out an afternoon tea fit for royalty, plus offering “smart casual” alfresco dining at The Veranda and curry buffets daily and Death by Chocolate buffets on Friday and Saturday evenings at The Bengal Lounge. For a more formal experience (at least a sundress for women, collared shirt and slacks for men, but no tie or jacket required these days), try The Empress Room.

611 Courtney St., Victoria, 250-220-8008, bistro@bonrouge.ca

LODGING NO MATTER YOUR BUDGET, IT’S NOT HARD to find attractive lodgings that are handy to downtown Victoria, its restaurants, wine bars, shopping and night life. From the always-elegant Empress to the luxury-on-a-budget Best Western, it’s hard to go wrong.

Here’s a sampling of the city’s scores of fine places to stay whether you decide to pamper yourself or pamper your wallet.

H O T E L G R A N D PA C I F I C

Rated as Victoria’s only five-star hotel, the 308-room Grand Pacific is adjacent to the Parliament Buildings and the Royal BC Museum is close at

hand as well as all the downtown’s fine restaurants, shops, wine bars and night life.

The hotel offers an array of inhouse dining choices, including the “elegant but informal” Pacific Restaurant, which has its own Web site featuring a sound track that’s supposed to tell you it’s a busy, happening place.

Want something a little quieter and maybe even romantic? Try The Mark, the other hotel’s other restaurant. Its Web site features elegant music, blocks of elegant red background and a mouth-watering list of dinners focused largely on West Coast seafood.

For a quick breakfast or lunch, there’s also the Courtyard Cafe, with fresh-baked goods, specialty coffees and deli offerings.

If that’s not enough pampering,

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

Rates: $199-$479 CDN 721 Government St., Victoria, 250-384-8111, www.fairmont.com/empress VICTORIA MARRIOTT INNER HARBOUR

Just behind the Empress in location, but a fine 236-room hotel in its own right, the Victoria Marriott Inner Harbor offers a stellar nighttime view from its higher floors of the harbor and the lighted Legislative Buildings and the Royal BC Museum, to the southwest. Have an urge to splurge? Arrange a suite at the concierge level, with free breakfasts, the best views and an added array of services.

This four-star hotel’s Fire & Water Fish and Chop House is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with adventurous West Coast cuisine and a good wine list.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

41

34-43 victoria

12/6/07

F E AT U R E

2:06 PM

Page 42

victoria

&

vancouver island

We stayed here and found the staff outstanding, particularly the waiters and the concierge desk staff. The waiters knew their menu and wine list well and freely suggested other fine places to eat.

And the concierge staff happily booked reservations, drew walking routes on the hotel’s downtown maps and had a ready list of 20 top sights to see in their city and its environs.

Rates: $142-$369 CDN 728 Humboldt St., Victoria, 250-480-3800, www.marriott.com R O YA L S C O T S U I T E H O T E L

Just moments away from the Port Angeles ferry terminal, the 178-room Royal Scot offers many amenities in its suites, which range from 300 to 600 square feet. It’s rated as a threestar and draws favorable online reviews.

Right at hand is Jonathan’s, described as a family restaurant offering indoor and outdoor seating and outfitted in old Victoria-style decor. Nearby are The Boat House and The Blue Crab, and it’s an easy walk to many other downtown attractions and eateries.

Rates: $172-$239 CDN 425 Quebec St., Victoria, 250-388-5463, www.royalscot.com BEST WESTERN INNER HARBOUR

Here’s another dependable Best Western. It has inexpensive rates and is close to downtown restaurants and night life. Depending on your room, there’s, of course, the Inner Harbour, James Bay or Quadra Park. The 74-room hotel offers the usual continental breakfast and the Harbour House Restaurant, which serves up steaks, lobster and firstrate service, is next door. Also close by is Santiago’s, which offers a tapas menu, and Johnathan’s is just across the street. Also rated three stars.

Rates: $92-$129 CDN, with discounts for AAA, AARP 412 Quebec St., Victoria, 250-384-5122, www.victoriabestwestern.com

42

WINE BARS FINDING GOOD WINE IN VICTORIA IS AS easy as finding fine food. There are several good wine shops, bistros and pubs with wine lists that draw from around the world and a number of establishments where the wine list is the largest part of the offerings alcoholic.

During our time browsing the city streets, we came across several excellent wine shops, including one that’s outstanding for its selection of B.C.’s VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance certified) wines.

And if you’re looking for good wine bars, several of the bistros/restaurants included under our restaurant selections had fulsome and fancy wine lists, especially Vista 18 at Chateau Victoria Hotel, Il Terrazzo and Brasserie L’Ecole.

Falyn McMillen tends bar at Vista 18.

Venison Corn Dogs and black bean hummus are on Vista 18’s tapas menu.

V I S TA 1 8

Vista 18 dominates the 18th floor of the Chateau Victoria Hotel, providing panoramic views of the city, the Cascade and Olympic mountains, and a wine program that features provincial wines. In fact, the wine bar’s house wine list leans heavily on the side of B.C. The dynamic and imaginative tapas menu, available from 3 p.m. to midnight, includes the remarkable Venison Corn Dog, a seasonal item that paired deliciously with a glass of Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer.

Tapas are 2-for-1 on Tuesdays.

IL TERRAZZO

Il Terrazzo offers Super Tuscans, grappa and such exotic and expensive listings as Opus One and Quilceda Creek’s incredible reds for about $300 CDN. We did not find anyplace in Victoria with a wine list that could match Il Terrazzo’s breadth and depth.

B R A S S E R I E L’ E C O L E

Brasserie L’Ecole will open any bottle from its substantial cellar,

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

dominated by French wines, if you order two glasses (except sparkling wines, of course). They figure each bottle contains five pours, so you pay 40 percent of the bottle price.

Unless, of course, you need another glass or two. Brasserie L’Ecole also offers meal service from its bar.

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

34-43 victoria

12/4/07

2:34 PM

Page 43

victoria Ice wines are displayed in The Wine Barrel.

&

vancouver island

standards are virtually every type — sparkling, dry whites, bold reds and ice wines — plus a broad sampler of the varietals for which B.C.’s unique terroir is particularly suited.

Bottles of Ortega, Ehrenfelser, Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine all rest on the shelves here. Want a particular ice wine from the Okanagan? It’s likely there.

If you need a corkscrew or some fancy glassware, they can provide it, plus B.C. and imported gourmet foods. I tracked down a hot salsa for one of my coworkers who never yet met a salsa with too much heat.

Good, but not overwhelming heat was his verdict.

The staff is helpful and knowledgeable and also will offer wine tour information.

644 Broughton Street, Victoria, 250-388-0606, www.thewinebarrel.com OTHER VQA SHOPS

There are several other VQA shops in the Victoria area, but we wandered into only one other, Oak Bay Village Wines, which also had an excellent selection of B.C. offerings.

Here’s an alphabetical listing of other VQA shops we discovered, although we did not have time to visit them all. ıϧCook Street Village Wines,

The Strath Ale, Wine & Spirit Merchants offer delivery service by bicycle.

WINE SHOPS THE WINE BARREL

Our favorite wine shop, hands down, was The Wine Barrel in downtown Victoria. Among its hundreds of wines certified as meeting VQA

242 Cook St., Victoria, 250-995-2665, www.bcwineguys.com ıϧMattick’s Farm, Unit 133 5325 Cordova Bay Road, Victoria, 250-658-3116, vqashop@shaw.ca ıϧOak Bay Village Wines, 2247 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, 250-592-8466, www.bcwineguys.com ıϧTaylorwood Wines, 1185 Mainland St., Vancouver, 604-408-9463, www.taylorwoodwines.com T H E S T R AT H A L E , W I N E A N D S P I R I T MERCHANTS

If you’re downtown, the Strath is easy to find and boasts 16 coolers filled with chilled beverages. It offers wines from many of the Victoria-area and Okanagan wineries of B.C., particularly those who do not submit

➤ F O R M O R E W I N E T O U R I N G ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / T R AV E L

F E AT U R E

wines for VQA ratings — such as Venturi-Schulze and Kettle Valley.

The interior is striking, with wooden racks laden with beverages of every kind, including specialty beers, plus a wide array of snacks. The Strath also claims to have Victoria’s best selection of single malt scotch. As an added bonus, it’s open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

919 Douglas St., Victoria, 250-370-9463, www.strathliquor.com VICTORIA WINE SHOP

For fans of Mission Hill Family Estate, there’s one of its Artisan Wine Shops in downtown Victoria, where visitors can sample and buy this fine Okanagan Valley winery’s offerings. A downtown shop is no substitute for the stunning lake view from the winery itself, but if you need a fix of one of Mission Hill’s wines, here’s the place to find it.

1007 Government St., Victoria, 250-384-9994, victoria@artisanwineshop.ca T H E P E N N Y FA RT H I N G O L D E ENGLISH PUB AND LIQUOR STORE

Just down the street from the Oak Bay VQA shop is this brew pub with extensive pub grub more ambitious than typical pub fare, plus a wine and liquor shop next door of the same name. The wines at the shop include several from the Vancouver Island wineries, plus many more from the Okanagan Valley. In addition, the array of beers is impressive, and there also are some B.C. ciders available. Tastings every Thursday from 4-6 p.m.

2228 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, 250-370-9008, www.pennyfarthingpub.com ı KEN ROBERTSON , a newspaperman for 38 years,

has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash.

Managing editor ERIC DEGERMAN contributed to this report.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

43

44 ... Label ads

44

12/4/07

10:02 AM

Page 44

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

10:03 AM

Page 45

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

45

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:04 AM

Page 46

Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection.

Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA

509-548-1213

509-662-5013

www.viscontis.com

Wine of the Week Sign up for the Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week newsletter, delivered every Tuesday via e-mail www.winepressnw.com

46

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:06 AM

Page 47

Visit our winery overlooking the Columbia!

3400 10th St. SE, East Wenatchee, WA 98802

509-886-4596 Open Thurs., Fri., & Sat. 12-5 & holiday weekends Tours by appointment www.martinscottwinery.com chris.scott@martinscottwinery.com

2006 Restaurant Appreciation Award WA Assn. of Wine Grape Growers

18 B Street S.E., Quincy,WA 98848

(509) 787-3714 "Outstanding Washington Wine List Award" - 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Wine Press Northwest

• Lunch: Mon. - Fri. 11 am - 2 pm • Dinner: Thurs. - Sat. Open at 6 pm (Dinner reservations recommended) www.idlehourcafe.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

47

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:07 AM

Page 48

Tasting room open daily 11-5 687 Hubbard Creek Rd, Umpqua, OR 97486 www.henryestate.com • 1-800-782-2686 winery@henryestate.com

48

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/6/07

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2:26 PM

Page 49

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

49

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:09 AM

Page 50

“Amavi” is derived from the Latin words “Amor,” “Vita,” and “Vinum” ~ Love, Life, and Wine. Our mission is to capture the best of love and life in every bottle of our wine.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

50

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:10 AM

Page 51

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

Don’t miss an issue!

Subscribe to Wine Press Northwest today.

Four issues are just $10 ($12 in Canada) For convenient home delivery, call 800-538-5619 or go to winepressnw.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

51

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:11 AM

Page 52

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Est. 1988 Sunday - Friday 1 - 5 pm, Saturday 12 - 5 pm Closed Wednesday

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

509-526-0676

Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Releases: 2005 Washington State Cuvée 2005 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Enjoy wines made with a charming French accent.

Our friendly staff is here to welcome you in our historic renovated blacksmith shop.

Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM 33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463

52

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:12 AM

Page 53

Discover Idaho Wine Country

20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, ID 83609 Tours & Tastings 12-5 Sat. & Sun. 208-455-8386 • www.koenigvineyards.com Available at fine retailers and restaurants

Don’t miss an issue!

Subscribe to Wine Press Northwest today.

Four issues are just $10 ($12 in Canada) For convenient home delivery, call 800-538-5619 or go to winepressnw.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

53

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:13 AM

Page 54

Chandler Reach Vineyards 9506 West Chandler Rd. Benton City, WA (Exit 93 off 1-82) Visit our new Tuscan Villa & Tasting Room.

Sit on our patio and sip one of our estate Red Wines while taking in the incredible views!

Open: 11-5 Thur.-Sun. & Special Events Private tours by appt.

Sorry, no bus accomodations

509-588-8800

tracy@chandlerreach.com • www.chandlerreach.com

54

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:15 AM

Page 55

EXIT 52 off I-82 at Zillah

Open Winter: Wed. - Sun. 11 am-5 pm

Be sure to join us at Red Wine & Chocolate for Syrah served in Chocolate cups

by Essencia Artisan Bakery & Chocolaterie www.claarcellars.com

509-829-6810

Award-Winning Wines Tasting Room open: Daily 10 am - 5 pm December/January hours: Daily 12 - 4 pm 530 Gurley Rd., Granger, WA 98932

1-866-EATON HILL

Hyatt Vineyards 2020 Gilbert Rd., Zillah, WA 98953

509829-6333 Fax: 509-829-6433

Open daily 11 a.m.5 p.m. www.hyattvineyards.com

Desert Hills Winery Where the fun begins!

Enjoy our award winning wines and new releases in our cozy tasting room.

1208 North 1st St. Yakima, WA (Exit 31 off 1-82 Go 1/2 mi., on right)

Tasting Room hours: Mon.-Fri. 10-4 Sat. 11-5 • Sun. 12-4 or by appt.

www.deserthillswinery.com • 509-453-0503

Wine of the Week Sign up for the Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week newsletter, delivered every Tuesday via e-mail www.winepressnw.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

55

44 ... Label ads

56

12/4/07

10:17 AM

Page 56

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:19 AM

Page 57

Open 11-5 daily March through December Other times by appointment 11975 Smithfield Road • Dallas, OR 800-884-1927 • www.vanduzer.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

29700 SW Burkhalter Rd., Hillsboro, OR Tasting Room open year-round Mon. - Fri. 11-6 • Sat. & Sun. 11-5 Winter hours begin Oct. 1: Daily 11 - 5

503-648-8198

800-625-5665

www.oakknollwinery.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

57

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:19 AM

Page 58

16425 SE Webfoot Rd. Dayton, Oregon (503) 868-7359 Open for tasting 12-5 weekends & by appt. weekdays

58

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:21 AM

Page 59

Join us for our Bimonthly Guest Chef Dinners 26421 NW Hwy 47, Gaston, OR 97119

503-662-4509 Open by appt. & holiday weekends www.adeawine.com

“Consistently delicious wine!” Wine Press NW 26830 NW Olson Rd, Gaston, OR 97119 Winter tasting room hours: Dec.: Fri.-Sun. 12 - 5 • Jan.-Feb. 2: Open by Appt.

503-662-4545 • www.kramerwine.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

59

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:31 AM

WINE NEWS

Page 60

harvest report

From vine to barrel

Grapes await harvesting at Milbrandt Vineyards in Mattawa, Wash.

2007 NORTHWEST HARVEST ROUND -UP

BY ERIC DEGERMAN & ANDY PERDUE PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

ACROSS THE NORTHWEST, THE 2007 VINTAGE WILL BE ONE TO remember — and not for the typical reasons.

Washington started fast but was slowed by cooler weather. Oregon suffered through rain that challenged growers and winemakers to use all their skills. British Columbia cooled down after a fast start to harvest. And many of Idaho’s vineyards suffered winter damage.

WA S H I N G T O N

IT’S NO COINCIDENCE THAT THE HARVESTING OF WINE GRAPES IN Washington continued to climb while apple production slipped.

Late-season projections pegged a record harvest of 127,150 tons in 2007 — a growth of 6 percent. At the same time, apple harvest was to have fallen by 5 percent compared with 2006.

Twenty years ago, that trend would have unthinkable.

But the landscape has shifted in the Washington wine industry.

“Zinfandel in Washington 20 years ago? I wouldn’t have imagined such a thing,” said Rob Griffin, winemaker/owner of Barnard Griffin Winery in Richland. “But certainly 25 to 30 years ago, I wouldn’t have imagined talking about Washington Cabernet.

“Much has changed, attributable primarily because we have learned to grow the grapes properly in our climate, but also undeniably it’s warmer than it was then. Whether it’s a permanent man-made thing or temporary, who the hell knows? I’m pretty happy with the warmth.”

A hot August in Washington more than made up for a cool spring, allowing some winemakers to complete about 60 percent of their crush by the first week in October.

“We were running a week to 10 days earlier than ever on this site,” said Mike Alberg, owner of Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Frenchman Hills. “The sugars came up really fast because of the very high temperatures in August.”

That prompted Alberg to harvest Sauvignon Blanc dur-

60

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Grapes are harvested at Stillwater Creek Vineyard in Royal City, Wash.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:33 AM

Page 61

harvest report

WINE NEWS

A worker shows off the produce at Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards in Pasco, Wash.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

61

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:35 AM

WINE NEWS

Page 62

harvest report

Grapes are harvested at Milbrandt Vineyards in Mattawa, Wash.

Grapes shoot out of the harvester at Milbrandt Vineyards in Mattawa, Wash.

62

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:38 AM

Page 63

harvest report

A truckload of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Wahluke Slope is dumped off at Columbia Crest Winery in Paterson, Wash.

WINE NEWS

ing the first week in September. His first red variety, Merlot, came off in mid-September.

Those who didn’t hold out for more hang time had less to worry about, said Wade Wolfe of Thurston Wolfe Winery in Prosser.

“September cooled off and we had a very cool, cloudy, showery October that definitely slowed down the picking,” Wolfe said.

Harvest for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Riesling ran into November.

For example, Bob Bertheau, head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle and the world’s largest producer of Riesling, made the call on Evergreen Vineyard near Quincy around Halloween.

Derek DesVoigne, a young winemaker for Baer Winery in Woodinville and his own Cuillin Hills label, said, “It’s going to be a big bruiser of a vintage, but people are going to make great wine from it. The guys who have vineyards scattered all over Eastern Washington will do really well because they are going to be able to roll in a little finesse from other sites. It depends on where your cards are played.”

The often-pessimistic Griffin, who buys primarily from the state’s hottest appellations — Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and the Wahluke Slope — gushed over the grapes for his 31st vintage in Washington.

“For heat summation, it was as average a year as we could ever hope to have, but we’re seeing very high acidity, which I like,” the native Californian said. “It takes me back to my early days in Washington, when our high acids were one of the things that always distinguished us.

“And the intensity of fruit character seems to be very high across the board,” he continued. “I think this has the makings of an exceptional year. I know every winemaker will tell you that almost every year, but it’s really out there this year. We’ve got good stuff.”

OREGON

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DECADE MAKES. TEN YEARS AGO, THE Oregon wine industry struggled through the last of three challenging vintages in a row, harvests were interupted by Mother Nature that caused grapes to arrive at less-thanoptimal ripeness.

From 1998 to 2004, winemakers and grape growers in the Willamette Valley enjoyed good weather and vintages that didn’t present the issues they faced from 1995 to ’97. Now, they’ve had to battle rain in two of the past three years.

The difference, however, has been the hard work of the Oregon wine industry, which uses viticultural practices meant to wring every bit of ripeness out of the Willamette skies.

“This is when Oregon shines,” said Dai Crisp, who runs Temperance Hill Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills appellation and also makes wine under his Lumos label. “I think the fact that you will see some beautiful wines from a difficult year is a testament to the tremendous effort of the

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

63

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:40 AM

WINE NEWS

Page 64

harvest report

industry. Over the years, we have learned to be better growers and more detail-oriented in the vineyard.

“Additionally, winemaking sophistication is higher,” he added. “We’re able to make better decisions in the vineyard that result in higher-quality wines.”

In other words, those who have put in the sweat equity figuring out how to get the most out of their grapes during relatively easy seasons will be rewarded this year.

In the Willamette Valley in particular — where the vast majority of Oregon’s wine industry is — rain that normally arrives around mid-October showed up a month early.

Harry Peterson-Nedry, who launched Chehalem Wines in 1990, said those who showed patience were rewarded.

“Rainfall has been the prime mover this harvest — but with less impact than we would have guessed just from rainfall amounts,” he said. “Fruit is largely nicely ripened, but with reduced sugar levels, which will equate to lower alcohol levels.

“As always, experience tells us not to freak out about dreary rain days, but to drink another cup of coffee, continue to pick on flavors and jump only when botrytis seems ready to show.”

Tim Wilson, wineView a slideshow with more harvest maker for photos and a harvest blessing at: Benton-Lane WineCountryCreations.com/harvest Winery in the southern Willamette Valley, actually sounded relieved.

“More classic Oregon, with some elegance and less overblown California-style alcohols and flavors,” he said.

“We had to pick around the rain quite a bit, but everything was really clean coming in, and flavors are really good.”

Weather also affected Southern Oregon wineries, which enjoyed early bud break and an even summer that didn’t cause sugars to spike. But when rains arrived in September, ripening stopped for two to three weeks, said Terry Brandborg of Brandborg Vineyard & Winery in the Umpqua Valley.

“I am looking forward to well-balanced wines that may be lighter in style but should show good varietal character with less alcohol.”

Winemaker Ray Einberger catches a glass of fermenting wine during a pump-over at Columbia Crest Winery in Paterson, Wash.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

BRITISH COLUMBIA OFFICIALS BOAST OF 136 WINERIES IN THE province, another 14 licenses pending, and more plantings coming into production.

And while 2007’s figures might not quite match the size of the previous vintage in per-acre terms, the new vineyards entering production will mean even more B.C. wine will be available.

“This was an interesting year,” Michael Dinn said with a big blink of his eyes.

The winemaker and co-owner of Joie Wines on the

64

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:41 AM

Page 65

harvest report

WINE NEWS

Naramata Bench noted that the record harvest of 2006 directly influenced the 2007 vintage.

“We had some major frost that occurred last November, so there was some pretty significant winter kill here in the valley,” Dinn said. “In 2006, it was a bumper crop, so we were expecting a smaller crop (in 2007), but it turned out to be only about 10 percent down from last year.”

And much of the fruit came in quite early. Mission Hill winemaker John Simes began crushing Sept. 5, his earliest ever. The last Cabs were harvested Nov. 1.

Dinn noted, “We had a wet June, big heat in July and a moderate August, so everything moved along to the point where it was probably — in many cases — the earliest harvest that wineries have ever seen in terms of start. But in the last two weeks of September, it turned quite cold.”

Many winemakers who gambled on an Indian summer to provide some ripening heat came away disappointed.

“The rains came, the temperature dropped, and the praying to the sun gods started,” reported Jay Drysdale, Vintner Quality Alliance liaison for the British Columbia Wine Institute. “Almost six weeks went by with not enough dry time between the rains to pull in the grapes. The late summer never came, and many grapes were brought in for salvage reasons rather than optimal ripeness.”

Marilyn Venturi, microbiologist of Venturi-Schulze Vineyards in Cobble Hill, won’t ever forget this vintage.

“The 2007 season was neither the coolest, nor the wettest in our 20 year history here in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island, but we found that, in combination with the lower than average hours of sunshine, it was our most challenging to date,” she said.

Still, many wines may benefit, Drysdale noted. He used Bill Eggert, winemaker of Fairview Cellars, to make his case.

“The style will be less of the huge wine (high alcohol) and more finesse and balance,” Eggert said.

Drysdale, who operates the Toasted Oak Wine Bar and Grill in Oliver as well as the adjacent government wine shop, predicts some red varieties fared better.

“There have been some very exciting reports about Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Merlot this vintage, with some apprehension towards Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah,” Dyrsdale said.

IDAHO

IN MANY WAYS, 2007 WILL BE A GOOD TO GREAT VINTAGE FOR wineries in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. Weather during harvest cooperated at unprecidented levels, and grapes arrived in good shape.

However, 2007 will be remembered for strange and mysterious winter damage that cut the fledgling wine region’s crop by as much as half.

Chuck Devlin, winemaker for Ste. Chapelle, the Gem State’s largest winery, can’t put his finger on how key vineyards were damaged last winter.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

65

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

11:42 AM

WINE NEWS

Page 66

harvest report A worker uses a flashlight to make sure he doesn’t pump too much wine into a barrel at Columbia Crest Winery in Paterson, Wash.

A worker takes a barrel sample at Columbia Crest Winery in Paterson, Wash.

66

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

60-67 harvest

12/4/07

2:47 PM

Page 67

harvest report Barrels of wine are stacked up at Columbia Crest Winery in Paterson, Wash.

The only thing left in the vineyards at the end of harvest at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley are a few bunches of grapes that missed getting picked and have turned into raisins.

WINE NEWS

“We had a substantial amount of winter damage, especially in Riesling as well as Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay,” said Devlin, a California native who hadn’t seen the likes of this in his eight vintages at Ste. Chapelle. “The really weird part about it is Riesling and Cabernet Franc are the hardiest varieties we have, and they were the worst hurt.”

And the damage wasn’t necessarily across the board. While the Riesling on the hill above his winery had no problems, Devlin got nothing from Skyline, a key vineyard.

“It was pretty bad,” he said.

The frightening part is nobody can quite figure out what happened. There were no wild temperature swings that could have damaged the plants, and even outside experts — Wolfe among them — have examined the vineyards and come up with no answers.

“We would love to know what happened so we can prevent it in the future,” Devlin said.

Those vines that didn’t produce this year already have been retrained and should provide a fairly normal crop in 2008.

What did come in thrilled Devlin.

“Yields were down, but quality was up,” he said. “We had a long, warm autumn, so we could wait as long as we wanted without a lot of pressure from the weather.”

To make up for shortfalls, Devlin did bring in Riesling from Washington’s Columbia Valley.

This vintage also will be the first in which Ste. Chapelle will be able to use the new Snake River Valley AVA on its label, for those wines that came from the appellation. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine

Press Northwest. Email him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. Read his blog, The Wine Knows, at www.winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is at: WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

67

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

12:01 PM

Page 68

Western Washington’s Great Wine & Hospitality 121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.

360-748-0432 • www.widgeonhill.com

O•S Winery Formerly Owen-Sullivan Winery

Opulent, voluptuous, concentrated red wines Open by appt • 206-243-3427 • www.owensullivan.com

68

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

11:59 AM

Page 69

Explore Puget Sound Wine Country

Family owned & operated winery producing fine wine using estate organically grown & Yakima Valley grapes.

Winter Hours: Sales by appt.

Spring Opening: March 29th Saturdays 12-5 pm Shipping available www.lopezislandvineyards.com winery@lopezislandvineyards.com

360468-3644

San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA

360-378-WINE Winter hours: December: Open 11-5 pm Thurs. thru Mon. Jan. & Feb.: by appointment Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

69

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:07 AM

Page 70

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

70

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:08 PM

Page 71

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

BEST OF THE BEST IN THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Platinum Judging S T O RY B Y A N D Y P E R D U E PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

THE EIGHTH EDITION OF OUR ANNUAL Platinum Judging turned up many surprises and discoveries, as well as a return to the top for producers whose wines have made their way there before.

Our panel of international wine judges sorted through 258 wines that already have earned top medals at more than 30 competitions we monitor throughout the year.

The judges handed out eight Double Platinums, wines all could agree on. Four of these wines tied for the best wines of the competition. An additional 25 wines earned the Platinum award, 95 won Double Golds, and 100 garnered Golds.

At the top were four very different wines. Dunham Cellars’ 2004 Syrah earned that spot for the second time in our competition’s history (it also did it in 2003). Maryhill Winery’s 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese wowed our panel with its superb fruit and balance. A Merlot from a new winery, Otis Kenyon in Walla Walla, Wash., was a stunner. And a Siegerrebe — a cool-climate wine grown on San Juan Island — also rose to the top.

As categories, the judges were especially appreciative of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Syrah categories. Other trends we would like to point out: ı Barnard Griffin of Richland, Wash., our 2006 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year, earned a Double Platinum and Platinum for two reds under $20. ı Vin du Lac, a Chelan, Wash.,

winery, earned a Platinum for its Cabernet Franc for the third consecutive year. ı Domaine Ste. Michelle of Paterson, Wash., won a Platinum for its Blanc de Noirs sparkling rosé for the third time in four years. ı Saviah Cellars of Walla Walla won two Platinums, including one wine that won the award last year, too. ı Gray Monk Estate Winery in Okanagan Centre, B.C., won two Platinums. The winery had never won a Platinum before. ı Chateau Ste. Michelle won two Platinums, both for the wine it’s now most famous for, Riesling. ı Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate of Oliver, B.C., a perennial Platinum winner, won three more this year. ı Thurston Wolfe, a boutique winery in Prosser, Wash., won two Platinums. ı Young wineries that haven’t earned Platinums until this year include: Sweet Cheeks, Gamache Vintners and Merry Cellars. ı Ste. Chapelle, Idaho’s largest producer, earned the Gem State’s first Platinum with a Riesling Ice Wine.

Our judges for this competition were: Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist and a longtime Northwest wine writer and newspaperman; Coke Roth, member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel, international wine judge and Washington grape grower; Dan Berger of Santa Rosa, Calif., an international wine judge, writer, author and Wine Press Northwest columnist; and Parks Redwine of Atlanta, Ga., owner of the Northwest Wine Summit competition and an international wine broker and collector.

Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman, editors of Wine Press Northest, moderated the judging. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair facilitated and oversaw the process.

On to the results. ı

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

W I N E R AT I N G S All wines are tasted single-blind, meaning the judges know the variety or style but not the producer. All red wines are decanted prior to judging.

Double Platinum The judges deem the wine a unanimous Platinum. This occurs rarely, and such wines should be considered especially collectible.

Platinum The best of the best, a Platinum shines above all others because of its superior qualities and should be highly sought after.

Double Gold An exquisite wine with superb varietal characteristics. Among the best wines in the Pacific Northwest.

Gold A delicious wine that shines under the scrutiny of multiple professional judgings and must not be overlooked.

Best Buy A red wine that is $15 and under or a white or rosé wine that is $10 and under.

Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted as CDN, which is Canadian dollars.

BEST OF THE BEST Dunham Cellars $45 2004 Syrah, Columbia Valley This should be no surprise to anyone who has followed the career of winemaker Eric Dunham. This is the third time in our eight best-of-the-best competitions that a Dunham Syrah has earned a Platinum — with two of them being unanimous Double Platinums. The grapes come from Dunham’s favorite source, Lewis Vineyard in Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills.

The resulting wine reveals aromas of ripe plums, leather, chocolate, cola and a trace of dried herbs, followed by elegant, complex flavors of dark fruit and black pepper with beautiful balance. This has a bit of oak showing, but it’s carried off with charm.

Gold (NWS) — 1,686 cases Maryhill Winery

$14

2006 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley We’re quickly coming to the conclusion that Sangiovese makes some of the best rosés in Washington, and this superb wine gives us no reason to doubt that thinking.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

71

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:10 AM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 72

platinum

Craig Larson is Maryhill’s new winemaker, and he’s nailed this wine perfectly in his first vintage with the destination winery in the Columbia Gorge. This offers bright aromas of fresh and baked cherries with a sweet spice component, followed by bold and harmonious flavors of raspberries and cherries. It’s deliciously dry with plenty of acidity and utterly flawless. A textbook example of what rosé’s potential is in the Pacific Northwest.

Gold (SFI) — 1,375 cases Otis Kenyon Wine $40 2005 Seven Hills Vineyard Reserve Merlot, Walla Walla Valley This small producer in the Walla Walla Valley is off to a stunning start. This is just Otis Kenyon’s second vintage — and its first release of Merlot. Yet it managed to earn its way into the competition by scoring high in our Merlot judging, then tied for our top spot with a wine that uses grapes from Seven Hills, a vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. It opens with rich, bright aromas of cherries, sweet spices, violets and

72

blackberry jam, followed by robust flavors of ripe plums, huckleberries and a whisper of sweet herbs. The oak is substantial without overwhelming the fruit. An opulent wine to pair with a fine cut of meat.

Outstanding (WPNW) — 90 cases

San Juan Vineyards $15 2006 Siegerrebe, Puget Sound This winery on San Juan Island often purchases grapes from Eastern Washington, but it also grows its own fruit on its estate vineyard.

Siegerrebe, an Austrian variety that grows well in cooler climates, is nearly impossible to make as a dry wine, yet San Juan Vineyards has managed just that. The aromas of spicy pears, white peaches and apples intrigued our judges, and the deliciously fresh fruit flavors beguiled them. This wine delivers wonderful food-pairing potential, including seared scallops, crab cakes, pasta tossed with grilled vegetables and drizzled with olive oil or sautéed prawns.

Gold (Wash) — 522 cases

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

DOUBLE PLATINUM Barnard Griffin $17 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Annually, this wine is compelling in every sense of the word. It’s superbly made, eminently approachable yet so nicely priced (and can be found for $5 or $6 less than this price if you know where to look). How does owner/winemaker Rob Griffin do it? He buys grapes from top vineyards he’s discovered throughout the vast Columbia Valley during three decades of Washington winemaking. It opens with aromas of sweet herbs, black currants, black pepper and faint green herbs.

The focused flavors include ripe plums, black olives and black currants. Its refined tannins offer youthful approachability, but cellaring for two years will pay further dividends.

Gold (RIWC, Chron) — 5,269 cases

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:08 PM

Page 73

platinum

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $34 CDN 2004 SunRock Vineyard Shiraz, Okanagan Valley It should come as no surprise that our top wine from British Columbia is from Jackson-Triggs, a perennial Platinum winner the past several years. What might be more surprising is it isn’t an ice wine. J-T and other Okanagan Valley wineries are proving Syrah can thrive north of the border, something unthinkable just a halfdecade ago. This opens with aromas of ripe, dark fruit, white pepper and violets, followed by plentiful flavors of blackberries and plums. It’s concentrated without being overripe and reveals fascinating notes of tarragon and is backed with ample tannins. A wine to enjoy now or tuck away for up to a halfdecade.

Double Gold (SFI), Gold (ACWC) — 500 cases Saviah Cellars $30 2005 Syrah, Red Mountain Owner/winemaker Richard Funk is making a habit of showing up at the top of our blind competitions. This youthful Syrah comes from grapes

from the Ranch at the End of the Road Vineyard on the Red Mountain bench, a source he has used since his inaugural 2000 vintage. No reason to mess with success. This shows off lush aromas of blackberry jam and molasses, followed by rich, jammy flavors of blackberries, black olives and Rainier cherries.

Our judges loved the balance and thought this has the structure to cellar for at least a half-decade.

Gold (Wash.)

— 224 cases Spangler Vineyards $30 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Southern Oregon Since taking over the old La Garza Cellars a few years ago, Patrick and Loree Spangler have turned their Umpqua Valley operation into one of the best in Southern Oregon. It opens with aromas of spicy oak and ripe, dark fruit, followed by flavors of black cherries, raspberries and dark chocolate. The tannins are firm without being assertive, and the solid acidity offers balance through the ample finish.

Best of Show (WOW) — 167 cases

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

PLATINUM Chateau Ste. Michelle $12 2006 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley Washington’s oldest winery not only makes more Riesling than any other winery in the world, but it also produces some of the finest.

Known affectionately around the Woodinville, Wash., winery as “Baby Eroica,” this Riesling uses grapes from some of the cooler regions of the Columbia Valley and is made in the “trocken” style. It opens with steely, minerally aromas, hints of limes and even hints of dried raspberries. On the palate, this Germanicstyle Riesling offers flavors of green apples and is bold without being heavy. Double Gold — 25,000 cases (IEWC) Gray Monk Estate Winery $16 CDN 2006 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley Some of the Northwest’s finest Gewürztraminer comes from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. In part, this is

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

73

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:11 AM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 74

platinum

because the region’s northerly climes are able to retain more natural acidity. Our judges were astonished by this wine’s near perfection, thanks to beautiful aromas of rosewater and lychee and luscious flavors of grapefruits, lychee and a faint herbal note. This would pair beautifully with mild Thai dishes.

Gold (Indy) — 2,300 cases Sweet Cheeks Winery $12 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley This young winery in the southern Willamette Valley is off to a great start, thanks to this gorgeous Riesling made from Sweet Cheeks’ estate vineyard. It offers spicy aromas of stone fruit, slate and hints of lime, along with opulent flavors of minerality and orchard fruit. Its mouth-filling flavors are balanced with bright acidity and make an easy-to-like, crowd-pleasing white wine to pair with a variety of Asian or Mexican dishes.

Gold (NWS, WCWC) — 1,028 cases Chateau Ste. Michelle $14 2006 Indian Wells Riesling, Columbia Valley

74

The warm climate of Washington’s Wahluke Slope would not seem to provide the proper conditions for a grape normally associated with cooler regions of the world. Yet winemaker Bob Bertheau shows his talent with Riesling by crafting a wine that shows off more juicy, tropical notes than his other Rieslings. This offers aromas of sweet orange blossoms and spices, followed by flavors of ripe peaches, Mandarin oranges, ripe pears and sweet apples. Its 2.65% residual sugar is perceptible but is expertly balanced with ample acidity. A great wine to pair with chicken tikka masala.

Gold (NWS) — 16,000 cases Covey Run Winery $22 2005 Reserve Semillon Ice Wine, Yakima Valley It should be considered an upset that the best ice wine in our competition did not come out of British Columbia. But the fact is Covey Run has been making superb ice wines in Washington’s Yakima Valley for many years.

Technically speaking, this wine was from the 2004 growing season. However, the grapes were harvested Jan. 5, 2005, so the U.S. gov-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

ernment says it must be labeled as a 2005 wine. Semillon, a grape associated with the great Sauternes dessert wines of Bordeaux, has served Covey Run well here. It opens with fresh, clean aromas of apples, citrus and apricots with hints of limes and minerality. On the palate, this wine is plenty sweet at 21.4% residual sugar, but superb acidity balances this and allows the flavors of figs, limes, dates and orange zest to shine through. Serve with a plate of rich cheeses. Best Ice Wine (NWS), Gold (Wash., PR) — 920 cases Saviah Cellars $32 2004 Une Vallée, Walla Walla Valley For the second consecutive year, a wine has won consecutive Platinum medals. This Walla Walla Valley red blend earned a Platinum from our judges a year ago and repeated the feat this year. Kudos to owner/winemaker Richard Funk for crafting a wine that continues to offer greatness as it evolves. It’s a Cab-dominated Bordeaux-style blend using grapes from four vineyards in Washington’s Columbia Valley. It shows off spicy aromas of sweet oak,

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:12 AM

Page 75

platinum

black olives and leather, followed by flavors of ripe dark fruit and black tea.

Outstanding (WPNW) — 229 cases Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2006 Autumn Gold, Okanagan Valley The latest version of this white blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc is a hit once again with our judges, just as it is in the tasting room of this Okanagan Falls, B.C., winery.

Winemaker Hagen Kruger proves his mettle once again with white wine varieties in this lusicous blend. From the beginning, it beguiles the nose with aromas of sweet spices and rosewater, leading to flavors of oranges, grapefruits, lychee and rosewater. It tastes surprisingly dry and would pair well with pahd Thai, grilled prawns or seared scallops.

Gold (OWF) — 800 cases Barnard Griffin $17 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin was a young man when he showed up in 1977 to make wine in Washington’s Columbia Valley. After realizing the potential of

Washington wine country, the California native had no thoughts of returning south.

Instead, he’s built his reputation on producing stunning wines at fair prices. This brilliant Merlot is from his main “Tulip” line and is broadly distributed. It opens with rich aromas of cherries, spices and black tea, followed by elegant, well-structured flavors of ripe cherries. Gentle tannins provide enough backbone without getting in the way of the massive fruit. A complete wine that will pair with pasta dishes, grilled meats or sautéed mushrooms. Gold (RIWC) — 6,185 cases Gamache Vintners $28 2004 Syrah, Columbia Valley Brothers Bob and Roger Gamache have been growing wine grapes in the Columbia Basin for a quarter century, and they launched their eponymous winery with the 2002 vintage with longtime Washington winemaker Charlie Hoppes. Now, they’ve purchased land on Red Mountain to expand their acreage into one of the Northwest’s most sought-after wine-growing regions. This is a luscious and sexy Syrah that

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

opens with aromas of blackberries, spicy oak, a hint of tobacco and even black corinthian leather. On the palate are lush flavors of ripe dark fruit, chocolate and such spices as rosemary, thyme and mint. It’s a complex red with — 375 cases an extensive finish. Gold (GHA) Gray Monk Estate Winery $17 CDN 2006 Late Harvest Kerner, Okanagan Valley This winery north of Kelowna, B.C., captured two Platinums in this judging.

Kerner is an unusual variety, a white grape that is a cross between Trollinger (a red grape) and Riesling. Though this is a late-harvest wine, it’s not overwhelmingly sweet at just 1.6% residual sugar. It offers aromas of ripe apples and peaches, followed by pretty, delicate flavors of green apples. “This is about as good as Kerner gets,” noted one judge.

Gold (NWS, Indy) — 1,064 cases Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $42 CDN 2005 Proprietors’ Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley This wine is a legacy to Bruce Nicholson, Jackson-Triggs’ original

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

75

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:13 AM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 76

platinum

winemaker, who returned to his native Ontario after the 2006 harvest. Quite simply, he developed into the finest producer of ice wines in the Pacific Northwest — and perhaps North America. This wine has his signature all over it, thanks to aromas of lush, bold honey and baked apples, followed by flavors of baked apricots sprinkled with cinnamon and drizzled with honey. Amid all the sweetness is amazing underlying acidity that forces all the goodness in this wine to rise up and not just taste like syrup. Gold (NWS) — 600 cases Merry Cellars $32 2005 Carmenère, Walla Walla Valley We love it when everything comes together. Such is the case with this unusual Bordeaux variety that is grown in small quantities in the Walla Walla Valley. Merry Cellars is in Pullman, home to Washington State University, and owner Patrick Merry plays up this connection to the Cougar faithful. We aren’t sure whether he realizes “Carmenère” originates from the French word for “crimson,” a fact that should play well with WSU fans who bleed crimson

76

and gray. The wine is loaded with aromas of black cherries, black pepper and fresh Santa Rosa plums, while the flavors reveal bold, peppery flavors of ripe dark fruit and anise.

Double Gold (Wash.)

— 86 cases Ste. Chapelle $22 2005 Skyline Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine, Idaho Leave it to Chuck Devlin to craft a wine that earns the Gem State its first Platinum in our competition’s eight-year history. Idaho’s largest winery makes a whole lot of Riesling, though this ice wine from one of the Snake River Valley’s signature vineyards is on the rare side. The judges were attracted to its fresh approach, with aromas of limes, oranges and apple pie and creamy flavors of peaches, apricots and poached pears. A trace of minerality and ample acidity provided complexity and balance. Gold (SD) — 4,000 cases Vin du Lac Winery $30 2005 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker is making ridiculously good

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

wines at his Lake Chelan, Wash., facility. He brings home a ton of awards each year, none more than for this Cabernet Franc. Two years ago, the 2003 vintage earned a Double Platinum and was our No. 1 wine. Last year, the 2004 repeated with another Platinum, and now this release has risen to the top again. A lot of folks probably want to know Larry’s secret to consistency at an extremely high level. This wine opens with harmonious aromas of black currants and integrated oak, followed by broad flavors of black fruit and varietal greenness. Moderate tannins provide structure and ageability. Gold (PR) — 142 cases Whidbey Island Winery $22 2003 Composition, Yakima Valley Greg and Elizabeth Osenbach have been quietly doing their own thing in Langley, Wash., since starting their boutique operation more than 15 years ago. They rely on grapes from their own vineyards on Whidbey Island, and they’ve purchased red grapes for half their wines from the Yakima Valley. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc,

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:13 AM

Page 77

platinum

Malbec and Syrah is a superb red with generous aromas of of black cherries, spices, violets and black pepper. The palate is rewarded with flavors of ripe dark plums, blackberries and boysenberries. Expertly balanced tannins and acidity will provide aging potential at least through the end of this decade. This is perhaps the finest wine yet from the Osenbachs. Double Gold (Wash.) — 300 cases Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Blanc de Noirs, Columbia Valley For the third time in the last four years, this rosé bubbly has earned a Platinum. This Pinot Noir-based sparkler is so delicous and so affordable — something definitely worth celebrating. This opens with aromas of roasted almonds and carmelized sugar, followed by full, bright, dry flavors of strawberries, citrus and pie cherries. It’s deliciously crisp on the midpalate and has broad food applications.

Might we suggest such pre-dinner appetizers as sushi, caviar or raw tuna with a drop of wasabi.

Gold (RIWC, IEWC, TC) — 20,081 cases

Best Buy!

Kiona Vineyards Winery $10 2006 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley In the New World — especially our West Coast — this classic French grape has been much maligned. Perhaps if more people tasted a Chenin Blanc this good, it could make a comeback. The Williams family has long championed this white wine, both in the form of a dry table wine and a dessert wine.

This is an off-dry style with aromas of melons, apples, pears and peaches, followed by flavors of sweet herbs and fresh apples. It’s a tasty crowd-pleaser with plenty of acidity. Pair it with sushi, seared scallops, fresh crab legs or a caesar salad. Gold (Wash.)

— 700 cases Best Buy!

Thurston Wolfe $15 2005 Dr. Wolfe’s Family Red, Washington Entering its third decade, this small Yakima Valley winery is hitting its stride in a big way.

Winemaker Wade Wolfe crafted this blend of Primotivo, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel into an eminently approachable red that reveals aro-

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

mas of sweet herbs, spicy red fruit and hints of oak. Juicy flavors of ripe black fruit and black pepper are backed with ample acidity and modest tannins. This is built to drink now with grilled meats or a gourmet pizza.

Gold (WCWC) — 750 cases Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $45 CDN 2005 Grand Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Jackson-Triggs crafts two tiers of Riesling ice wine, the Proprietor’s Reserve (black label) and Grand Reserve (gold label). This is the upper tier, and it offers aromas of of baked apples topped with toasted almonds and honey, followed by luscious flavors of poached pears. All of the ample sweetness is backed up with amazing acidity to keep it from seeming too over the top. Gold (NWS, ACWC) — 450 cases Maryhill Winery $36 2004 Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel, Columbia Valley A few years ago, Maryhill entered one of its first Zins in a wine competition in Sonoma County that included about

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

77

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:14 AM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 78

platinum with salivating aromas of black cherries and chocolate, followed by dense, bold flavors of black cherries, raspberries, chocolate and anise. Well-managed tannins provide structure without getting in the way of all the fruit.

Gold (Finger Lakes) — 626 cases L’Ecole No 41 $24 2004 Syrah, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Marty Clubb has made his reputation as a Bordeaux house, thanks to his superb Cabs, Merlots, blends and Semillons. Yet his Syrahs have gained serious fame in the past decade. This red from the broad Columbia Valley is no exception. It takes in grapes from six top vineyards: Milbrandt, Willard, Goose Ridge, Candy Mountain, Stone Tree and Bacchus, all of which were less affected by this vintage’s rough winter than L’Ecole’s native Walla Walla Valley. This is a classic Washington Syrah, exhibiting aromas of sizzling bacon alongside blackberries and ample oak. Its voluptuous flavors provide ripe plums, blackberry jam and black cherries. The alcohol (14.8%) shows up, but there’s plenty of fruit to balance it. Gold (NWS) — 2,649 cases

200 California Zinfandels. Much to the judges’ chagrin — and our delight — the Maryhill wine was awarded the No. 1 Zin. The Goldendale, Wash., winery now makes two levels of Zinfandel, and the gold rush has not slowed one bit. This offers aromas of raspberries and black pepper, followed by flavors of sweet red and black fruit, loads of chocolate and a complex blend of spices. “It’s as good as or better than a lot of California Zins,” our Sonoma County judge declared. Double Gold — 800 cases (GHA), Gold (RIWC, NWS) Portteus Winery $24 2005 Petite Sirah, Rattlesnake Hills Paul Portteus has been making wines and growing grapes since the mid-’80s and has been a champion of this Rhône variety that is just starting to gain a foothold in Washington. It opens with lush, dense aromas of plum sauce and blackberries, followed by bold flavors of spicy plums and ripe dark fruit. Underlying herbal notes provide complexity and moderate tannins provide balance and structure.

“This is about as good as P.S. gets,” remarked

78

one of our judges. Gold (Wash.)

— 200 cases

Thurston Wolfe $25 2004 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington Weighing in with its second Platinum of the competition, this winery has crafted a superb Cab from a Horse Heaven Hills vineyard. It is loaded with aromas of black currants, blackberries and mint, followed by dark, dense and intense flavors of rich fruit and ample tannins. Despite its boldness, this red is polished and classy. Drink it now with a marbled steak or tuck it away for — 220 cases several years. Gold (Dallas) Helix by Reininger $22 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley It doesn’t seem right to call a wine this good a “second label,” but that’s what it is. The Helix wines from Reininger Winery in Walla Walla are lower in price and rely on grapes from the broader Columbia Valley (while the Reininger wines focus on Walla Walla Valley fruit). We loved this wine’s youthful exuberance and explosive nature. It opens

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Tamarack Cellars $20 2005 Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley Owner Ron Coleman’s signature red blend includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Carmenère and Malbec. Its greatness regardless of vintage reveals the genius of blending to provide complexity and approachability. This offers aromas of smoky bacon, chocolate-covered cherries and mild oak, followed by darktoned flavors of black cherries and espresso.

Firm acidity and tannins wrapped in dark chocolate provide all the necessary balance.

It’s a beautiful blend that is stunning enough for Sunday prime rib yet humble enough for Tuesday night delivery. Outstanding (WPNW) — 7,136 cases

DOUBLE GOLD Three Rivers Winery $15 2006 Biscuit Ridge Vineyard Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Walla Walla Valley Three Rivers co-owner Duane Wollmuth owns this vineyard on the eastern edge of the Walla Walla Valley, and the grapes go toward one of the Northwest’s finest dessert wines. This offers refreshing aromas of apples, pears, lychee and grapefruits, followed by fresh flavors of apples, citrus and cloves. Late-harvest Gewürztraminer is one of the most difficult wines to get right, yet winemaker Holly Turner has it nailed. Gold (Indy) — 862 cases Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2006 Riesling, Okanagan Valley We’ve come to count on the Kruger family to make some of the Northwest’s most superb Rieslings in their Okanagan Falls, B.C., facility.

This is a beautifully balanced white that

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:15 AM

Page 79

platinum shows off bright aromas of citrus, vanilla and cloves, along with zesty flavors of lemons and juniper berries. Pair this with any number of dishes, including Thai, Vietnamese, Indian or — 1,000 cases Mexican. Gold (ACWC)

spice aromas, along with notes of dark fruit, chocolate and hints of new leather. On the palate are lusciously deep flavors of jammy berries, plums, blueberries, black olives and — 887 cases molasses. Gold (NWS)

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $34 CDN 2004 SunRock Vineyard Meritage, Okanagan Valley In the past two years, some of Jackson-Triggs’ finest reds have come from this vineyard in the southern Okanagan Valley. This Bordeaux-style blend offers aromas of red currants, bing cherries and a hint of oak, followed by flavors of bold, dark fruit and mint. This is a serious wine built on a delicate platform of oak that provides layers of complexity and plenty of aging potential.

Double Gold (SF) — 250 cases

Best Buy!

Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Frizzante, Columbia Valley Getting married? This is a perfect wedding wine because it’s sweet enough to satisfy irregular wine drinkers yet plenty sophisticated for the snobs. This is DSM’s sweetest sparkler at 4.3% residual sugar. The sweetness is propped up by the luscious bubbles, giving this wine an even more celebratory note. It opens with bright, slightly floral aromas that lead to delicious fresh fruit flavors. This could be dessert unto itself or could pair with any number of dishes. One inspired match could be nopalitos con huevos. Gold (Dallas) — 25,000 cases

Chateau Ste. Michelle $39 2005 Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling, Columbia Valley This reserve dessert wine is a sweetie with a whopping 22.4% residual sugar, but it has the acidity to prop up all the flavors. Winemaker Bob Bertheau used grapes from the Horse Heaven Vineyard, and the fruit was infected with botrytis (noble rot), giving it even more complexity. It offers luscious aromas of honeysuckle and apple pie and flavors of honey, flowers and poached pears sprinkled with sweet spices. Best Riesling (Finger Lakes) — 950 cases

Maryhill Winery $20 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley A three-time winner of gold in 2007, this affordable Cab uses grapes from nearby Tudor Vineyard as well as fruit from the Wahluke Slope. It shows off refined aromas of ripe cherries and hints of oak, followed by rich, dark, delicious flavors of bold, intense fruit. It has the structure to age a few years, but it is oh so good right now. Best of Show — 1,000 cases (Wash.) Gold (GHA, NWS) Wild Goose Vineyards $23 CDN 2006 Mystic River Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley This vineyard near Oliver, B.C., is one of winemaker Hagen Kruger’s favorites, especially for this variety. In fact, Wild Goose now makes three white wines under the Mystic River moniker. This is a classic Gewürztraminer, thanks to aromas of lychee, rosewater and fresh orchard fruit and flavors of grapefruits and tropical fruits, all balanced with surprisingly bright acidity and a dollop of sweetness. Gold (NWS) — 200 cases Zerba Cellars $28 2005 Syrah, Columbia Valley Zerba Cellars, the Oregon winery whose 2003 Syrah topped our Platinum Judging last year, continues to be a producer to be reckoned with. This Syrah uses grapes from estate vineyards on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, along with grapes purchased from the Yakima Valley. The resulting wine shows off beautiful

Canoe Cove $13 CDN 2005 North Bluff Red, Okanagan Valley Canoe Cove, a second label for Domaine de Chaberton near Langley, B.C., uses grapes from the southern Okanagan Valley for this red blend. It offers aromas of chocolate, spices, black cherries and pomegranates, along with round, jammy flavors of black raspberries, blueberries and black currants.

This wine takes advantage of its ripe fruit and is loaded with charm. Gold (NWS) — 900 cases

Dusted Valley Vintners $35 2004 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley The folks behind this Walla Walla Valley winery are proving to be some of the top Syrah producers in the Northwest, as they show with each release. This reserve-level red is a blend of three vineyards from three appellations: Horse Heaven Hills, Yakima Valley and Wahluke Slope. It opens with Côte-Rôtie-like aromas of sizzling bacon and molasses with hints of tar and ripe dark fruit, followed by focused flavors of blackberries and plums with a hint of rosemary. Gold (Wash.) — 125 cases Benton-Lane Winery $60 2005 First Class Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The top Pinot Noir in our judging comes from one of the most respected producers in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Winemaker Tim Wilson expertly blended seven clones of Pinot Noir from BentonLane’s estate vineyard to craft this complex red. The result is a wine with aromas of sweet spices, raspberries and cherries, followed by lush flavors of complex fruit, a hint of moist earth and a whisper of sweet herbs. Modest tannins provide balance without getting in the way of the fruit. Gold (NWS) — 1,334 cases Hawks View Winery $17 2005 Cranberry, Coos County If you don’t think fruit wines can be serious, then take a long look — and taste — of this cranberry wine from the southern Oregon coast.

Winemaker Terry Luce searched cranberry

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

bogs along the coast for the sweetest fruit he could find, then crafted a wine that took our judges by surprise. The aromas are fresh, clean and loaded with cranberry notes. The flavors are sweet yet tart — just like a good cranberry. The purity of fruit is expertly balanced with bright acidity. “The varietal character goes beyond expectation,” noted one — 50 cases judge. Gold (NWS) Morrison Lane $32 2003 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley This tiny producer in Walla Walla has quickly earned a reputation for top-quality red wines produced from estate grapes. This luscious red is co-fermented with 5% Viognier in the Côte-Rôtie style. The resulting wine offers aromas of sweet herbs, ripe plums and violets, followed by elegant and distinctive flavors of dark ripe fruit and beautifully balanced tannins and — 243 cases acids. Gold (Wash.)

Best Buy!

Oak Knoll Winery $7 NV Niagara, American Niagara is a North American variety, known as “labrusca” in wine circles. It’s often used for white grape juice but also is made into wine. This is a stunner that uses grapes from Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington, thus the “American” designation. It is intense on the aromas with juicy grape notes and distinctive flavors. It’s off-dry with 2.8% residual sugar and should be quite popular with picnics or brunches.

Best White Wine (PR) — 10,000 cases Reininger Winery $32 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Former mountain-climbing guide Chuck Reininger now fulfills lofty expectations for his fans with each release. This Cab is a blend of two top Walla Walla Valley vineyards, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. The resulting wine offers charming aromas of oak, blackberries, chocolate and coffee, followed by flavors of black cherries, subtle oak and chocolate-covered tannins. Even under blind conditions, one judged pegged this as “Walla Walla style.” Gold (NWS) — 1,148 cases Revelry Vintners $20 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This young Issaquah, Wash., winery has developed a stylish bag-in-a-box container for its wines. Thus, for this price, you get the equivalent of two bottles of Cab. This awardwinner offers dark, smoky aromas of rich fruit and flavors of black currants, black olives, dark chocolate and black tea. Gold (SD) — 1,250 cases Cardwell Hill Cellars $28 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This winery west of Corvallis, Ore., uses fruit from its estate vineyard to craft a luscious and elegant Pinot Noir, and owner Dan Chapel is serious about sustainable growing practices.

This opens with charming aromas of violets,

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

79

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:09 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 80

platinum

THE JUDGING HOW IT’S CONDUCTED

W

ines are eligible for our Platinum Judging by winning a gold medal in any of about 30 competitions we track throughout the year. Wines that earn an “Outstanding” in any of our three peer-group judgings throughout the year also are eligible.

For the eighth annual Platinum, we received 258 wines, our most ever. More than 400 wines were eligible. Some wineries choose not to enter this competition for many reasons, the most common of which is they are out of the wine.

Because the wines already have won gold medals, they could be awarded a Platinum, Double Gold or Gold here. To earn a medal, a wine needs votes from three out of four judges. If all four judges deem a wine a Platinum, then it is awarded a Double Platinum.

The judging was moderated by Andy Perdue, editor-in-chief. It was conducted Oct. 25-26 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

ELIGIBLE WINE COMPETITIONS

These are the judgings we monitor for gold medals. The abbreviation is used throughout the reviews to indicate where the gold medal was won.

ACWC: All-Canadian Wine Competition. A national wine competition held each summer in Windsor, Ontario.

CHRON: The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition is held each winter in Cloverdale, Calif. It is the largest competition of raspberries, strawberries and sweet spices, followed by flavors of ripe cherries dipped in chocolate. This wine manages to balance a gentle approach with plenty of complexity — 2,475 cases and length. Gold (NWS) CedarCreek Estate Winery $45 CDN 2004 Platinum Reserve Meritage, Okanagan Valley Longtime Washington winemaker Tom Di Bello headed north to this Kelowna, B.C., winery several years ago and has been turning out one award-winning wine after another since his arrival. This Merlotdominated blend of Bordeaux varieties shows off aromas of spicy blueberries, cherries, leather and oak, followed by rich, dark flavors of blackberry jam, chocolate, black tea and — 422 cases anise. Gold (SF) Chateau Ste. Michelle $30 2004 Orphelin Red Wine, Columbia Valley If complexity can be found with blending, then there’s no doubt winemaker Bob Bertheau has a winner on his hands. This red wine has no fewer than 10 grape varieties in it, from Syrah to Cinsault to Touriga to Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a luscious wine with aromas of cherries, spices and mint, followed by delicious flavors of black cherries and hints of chocolate. Tannins provide structure while staying in check. Gold (IEWC) — 12,000 cases

80

American wines.

DALLAS: The Dallas Morning News Wine Competition is held each winter in Texas and is one of the largest judgings in North America.

FINGER LAKES: Finger Lakes International Wine Competition: Held each spring in upstate New York.

FLA: The Florida State Fair International Wine & Grape Juice Competition is held each winter in Tampa.

GHA: The Grand Harvest Awards is an international competition conducted each winter by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine.

IDAHO: The Idaho Wine Festival competition is conducted each summer by the Treasure Valley Wine Society.

IEWC: International Eastern Wine Competition: Conducted by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine. Held in upstate New York.

INDY: The Indy International Wine Competition is held each summer at the Indiana State Fair. It is one of the largest wine competitions in North America.

L.A.: The Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition is held each spring in Pomona, Calif. It is considered one of the most prestigious judgings in North America.

LBGC: The Long Beach Grand Cru international wine competition is conducted by Dan Berger each summer in Southern California.

MONTEREY: Monterey Wine Competition, an international wine competition held in King City, Calif.

NWIWC: New World International Wine Competition, held each

Col Solare $75 2003 Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley One of the most expensive wines in the Ste. Michelle universe also is one of its finest. This international collaboration between Ste. Michelle and Antinori is a Bordeaux-style blend dominated by 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows off aromas of ripe cherries and even cranberries, followed by bold flavors of cherries and ripe plums. The tannins are still a bit assertive, so tuck this away for a couple of years. Gold (Chron) — 946 cases Best Buy!

Flying Fish $15 2005 Merlot, Washington Entrepreneur Peter Click of Seattle started Click Wine Group with wines from Australia and now produces this delicious Merlot from his own backyard. It’s nicely priced, and the wine is darned good, too, thanks to aromas of blueberries and spices and flavors of blackberries, chocolate and blueberries. Supple tannins provide structure without interfering with anything. There’s a lot to like about this Merlot. Outstanding (WPNW) — 7,500 cases Gamache Vintners $28 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley The Gamache brothers grew the grapes for this gorgeous Cab at their estate vineyard near Basin City, Wash., then the wine was crafted by Ste. Michelle alum Charlie

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Hoppes. The result is a wine with aromas of dark fruit and toasted oak and intense flavors of black cherries and black olives. Sweet tannins and balanced acidity give this food-worthy structure. Gold (NWS) — 333 cases Merry Cellars $30 2005 Twilight Hills Red, Washington Owner/winemaker Patrick Merry crafted this Bordeaux-style blend using grapes from top vineyards, including Stillwater Creek in the Frenchman Hills and Les Collines in the Walla Walla Valley. It’s a Merlot-dominated red that reveals black and blue fruits on the aromas and loads of blackberries, black tea and black licorice on the palate. It’s a complex wine with plenty to offer. Gold (Indy) — 103 cases Oak Knoll Winery $12 2005 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley This northern Willamette Valley winery shows how Pinot Gris should be made, as it has crafted the top example in our judging. It provides complex aromas of fresh pears and limes along with grassy and floral notes, followed by bright, crisp flavors of pears, limes, star fruit and even a hint of clove. This has bold acidity to accompany all the flavors. No oak here, just pure, delicious Pinot Gris. Gold (RIWC, Dallas) — 2,425 cases Snake River Winery $26 2005 Arena Valley Vineyard, Idaho Owner

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:16 AM

Page 81

platinum winter in Southern California.

NWS: The Northwest Wine Summit, held each spring at Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood, is the largest judging of Northwest wine.

OREGON: The Oregon Wine Competition is held each August in Salem and is part of the Oregon State Fair. It is an Oregon-only judging.

OWF: The Okanagan Fall Wine Festival Judging is held each fall in Penticton, B.C. It is open to British Columbia wines.

PR: Pacific Rim International Wine Competition: Held each spring in San Bernardino, Calif., this is part of the National Orange Show.

RIWC: The Riverside International Wine Competition is conducted by Dan Berger each spring in Southern California.

SEATTLE: The Seattle Wine Society Competition is a Northwest wine judging held each summer.

SD: San Diego International Wine Competition, held each spring in Southern California.

SFI: San Francisco International Wine Competition. Held each summer in San Francisco.

TC: Tri-Cities Wine Festival. A Northwest wine competition held each November in Pasco, Wash.

WASH: The Washington State Wine Competition is held each June in Yakima. It is the only judging of Washington wines.

WCWC: The West Coast Wine Competition is conducted each spring by Vineyard & Winery Management in Santa Rosa, Calif.

WINEFEST: Hilton Head WineFest is an international wine competition held each winter in South Carolina.

Scott DeSeelhorst has crafted a wine in the style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. His blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvédre may be unusual in the Pacific Northwest, but it would be right at home in the southern Rhône Valley. It opens with aromas of dark fruit and moist earth, followed by balanced flavors of red fruit and a hint of oak. The tannins are seamlessly resolved, providing food-worthy — 225 cases structure. Gold (Dallas) Tamarack Cellars $28 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley Ron Coleman launched his Walla Walla winery in 1997 with Merlot in mind. Through the years, he has branched into many varieties, yet his Merlot continues to be one of the state’s finest. This is a great example, starting with aromas of bright cherries and chocolate, followed by nicely balanced flavors of Rainier cherries and ripe red plums. This is an easy wine to like — and even easier to drink.

Outstanding (WPNW) — 1,442 cases Three Rivers Winery $21 2006 Riesling, Yakima Valley This Walla Walla Valley winery is best known for its delicious reds and luscious dessert wine, but winemaker Holly Turner obviously is onto something with Riesling, as this was a threetime gold-medal winner in 2007. She produced a Germanic-style white with aromas of slate and limes and steely flavors of minerals

W O W: The World of Wine competition is part of a festival in Medford, Ore. WPNW: Wine Press Northwest conducts three peer-group judgings of Northwest wines each year. Those rated “Outstanding” are eligible for the Platinum. In 2007, we judged red blends (spring), Viognier (summer) and Merlot (fall).

W W C : The National Women’s Wine Competition features many of the top female wine judges in North America.

TA S T E T H E W I N E S

There are many opportunities for you to try some of the top wines from the Platinum Judging.

• Fifth Annual Platinum Wine Dinner, Feb. 1, Columbia Tour Club, Seattle. Some 15 top wines will be enjoyed during this multi-course dinner at the top of the Northwest’s tallest building. Cost: $130. Call 206-622-2010.

• Sixth Annual Platinum Dinner, April 12, Yakima. This event is put on each year by the Yakima Enological Society. Go to www.yakimawine.org.

• Yoke’s Fresh Markets in Eastern Washington and North Idaho will have many top wines from the Platinum Judging on special display at select stores.

P L AT I N U M C O O K B O O K

Want some great recipes to try with the award-winning wines from the Platinum Judging? Download our new Platinum Cookbook with recipes contributed by Northwest wineries and members of the Wine Press Northwest crew. Go to www.winepressnw.com/newsletters/platinum

and sweet lemons. The 4% residual sugar nicely rounds out the fruit but doesn’t taste overly sweet, thanks to bright acidity. Gold (Wash., LBGC, IEWC) — 280 cases Whitestone Winery $28 2002 Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard Merlot, Washington Before the Grand Coulee Dam was built in the 1940s, grapes were grown in the area. Roosevelt Lake, created behind the dam, covered the region until the Haig family decided to plant vineyards on the lakeshore in 1994. By 2001, the family decided to launch Whitestone Winery in the nearby town of Wilbur. This wine, from the Haigs’ second vintage, is a rich, spicy Merlot with aromas of dark fruit and a bit of oak. On the palate, the flavors are loaded with notes of blueberries and huckleberries. This is a substantial wine with tannins to match. It could be served well by tucking it into the cellar for a couple of years. Gold (Indy) — 170 cases Barnard Griffin $14 2006 Semillon, Columbia Valley Few Northwest wineries consistently make this noble white wine whose origins are in Bordeaux. Rob Griffin, however, is dedicated to the variety and crafts some of the best around. He gets the grapes from Caroway Vineyard east of the city of Kennewick. It opens with telltale aromas of fresh figs and citrus, followed by flavors of pears, apples,

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

apricots, figs and lemon zest. This would pair beautifully with fresh crab, seared scallops or grilled chicken. Gold (RIWC) — 870 cases Barnard Griffin $11 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Rob Griffin has become convinced that a rosé may be the best use of this variety in Washington. It’s difficult to argue with success, since this may be the only rosé in the state that has a cult following. Its gorgeous aromas of cherries, vanilla and even a hint of almonds lead to clean, bright flavors of pomegranates, Rainier cherries and cranberries. Everything is propped up with food-friendly acidity to give this plenty of zip and length. Best rosé (RIWC, — 2,936 cases Monterey), Gold (Chron) C. R. Sandidge Wines $50 2003 Tri*Umph, Yakima Valley Ray Sandidge has made wine around the world, and he gained his reputation with Washington wines while working for Kestrel Vintners in Prosser. Now on his own, Sandidge continues to craft beautiful wines, with a focus on blends and Syrahs. This Cab-dominated Bordeaux-style blend reveals aromas of black cherries, sweet spices and chocolate, followed by focused flavors of dark fruit. The tannins are in check, allowing the elegant — 256 cases fruit to shine. Gold (NWIWC)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

81

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:10 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 82

platinum

DiStefano Winery $28 2003 Domenica, Washington Owner Mark Newton and winemaker Hillary Sjolund have crafted a glorious Merlot-dominated blend that offers aromas of spicy dark fruit and flavors of black cherries and mint. Well-managed tannins don’t add undue weight to the palate, making this a red to enjoy any time in the next three years with a fine cut of beef.

Outstanding (WPNW) — 467 cases Elkhorn Ridge Vineyards & Winery $30 2005 Pinot Noir 777, Willamette Valley The “777” refers to the clone of Pinot Noir used in this particular wine. This is one of the so-called “Dijon” clones introduced to Oregon since the early ’90s. It often is thought of as the best of these new clones, and that pedigree certainly shows here. This wine opens with aromas of darker-toned fruit, followed by rich, spicy flavors. This wine has some density while still retaining its delicate characteristics. Double Gold (SF) — 300 cases Best Buy!

Harbinger Winery $15 NV Dynamo Red, Washington After surviving a plane crash in the rugged Olympic National Park, Sara Gagnon decided she’d better get on with her dreams, which included launching her own winery. So she left nearby Olympic Cellars and started Harbinger.

This fun blend offers aromas of red-toned fruit and sweet herbs, followed by fruit-driven flavors of cranberries, rhubarb and ripe cherries. This is made and priced to drink early and often. Gold (Wash.)

— 140 cases Helix by Reininger $22 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley Reininger’s Helix line of wines must be a lot of fun for winemaker Chuck Reininger, as it allows him to stretch out across the vast Columbia Valley to use grapes that would never fit into his Walla Walla Valley program. Of course, it also means a lot more miles on his pickup because he ends up driving to the Frenchman Hills, Wahluke Slope and Horse Heaven Hills to keep an eye on grapes. This Merlot is a blend of four vineyards and offers aromas and flavors of blueberries and ripe cherries. Its elegant tannins provide just the right amount of structure.

Gold (Dallas, Finger Lakes) — 1,106 cases Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $42 CDN 2006 Proprietors’ Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley This was the last wine Bruce Nicholson touched before he left this Oliver, B.C., winery for his native Ontario. It’s a good legacy, thanks to intense aromas of honey and apricots and lush flavors of baked fruit, spices and tons of sweetness. There’s just enough acidity to prop up all the residual sugar in this gorgeous dessert wine.

Gold (NWS) — 600 cases

82

Best Buy!

Kiona Vineyards Winery $12 2004 Lemberger, Red Mountain The Williams family pioneered grape growing on Red Mountain and also has championed this somewhat rare Austrian variety since the early 1980s, when it was dubbed “Washington’s Zinfandel” by various writers. This red wine opens with dark, dense, even brooding aromas that lead to bold flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and even blueberries. A whisper of mint offers intriguing complexity, and modest tannins give this youthful approachability.

Gold (Wash.)

— 1,800 cases Lake Breeze Vineyards $17 CDN 2006 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley After several ownership changes in the past decade, this winery on B.C.’s Naramata Bench seems to now be steady and is making stunning wines, starting with this Gewürztraminer.

It opens with classic aromas pink grapefruits, minerals and rosewater, followed by flavors of bright citrus and delicate stone fruits. This dry wine will pair well with turkey or duck.

Gold (NWS, ACWC) — 450 cases Maryhill Winery $36 2004 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Owners Craig and Vicki Leuthold have done everything right since opening their winery in 2001.

Between the views of the Columbia Gorge and Mount Hood, their amphitheater and their wines, the Leutholds have been on a roll. This highly regarded reserve Cab is a big wine with aromas of black currants, chocolate and leather, followed by dark flavors of ripe black fruit. The up-front tannins melt away by midpalate, ushering in a plush finish. Double Gold (GHA), Gold (RIWC, NWS) — 510 cases Robert Karl Cellars $20 2004 Claret, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Joe Gunselman has a tiger by the tail with this Cab-dominated blend. Each vintage for the past few years has garnered one top award after another, yet the wine remains blissfully affordable. This version is completely from Horse Heaven Hills fruit, a good choice considering the region’s reputation for growing Cabernet. This reveals aromas and flavors of black tea, black currants, blackberries and a slight herbal note. Firm tannins dictate opening this while a well-marbled steak is — 1,600 cases on the grill. Gold (NWS) San Juan Vineyards $14 2006 Riesling, Yakima Valley This Friday Harbor, Wash., winery’s first release of Riesling is a good one. Using grapes from the Smasne Brothers Vineyard, this relatively dry wine shows off aromas and flavors of sweet apples and hints of vanilla and even caramel.

Gold (Wash.)

— 608 cases Willamette Valley Vineyards $12 2006 Riesling, Oregon This Turner, Ore.,

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

winery is probably best known for its awardwinning Pinot Noirs and Pinot Gris, but it’s also developing into one of Oregon’s largest producers of Riesling. This appealing white shows off aromas of fresh-cut apples and flavors of oranges, apples and nutmeg. It’s offdry and hedonistically enjoyable.

Gold (LA, NWS) — 21,000 cases Abacela Vineyards & Winery $25 2004 Port, Southern Oregon In the New World, most Port-style dessert wines are made with whatever grape happens to be available. Not so at Abacela, which prides itself in growing grapes that are rather obscure. Take this wine, for example, which is made with Bastardo and Tinta Roriz, two Portugese varieties that aren’t planted in too many other places in Oregon besides the estate vineyard near Roseburg. The wine is superb, with rich aromas of raisins, plums, cherries, black pepper and chocolate, followed by well-integrated flavors of dark chocolate and black fruits.

Gold (NWS) — 192 cases Alexandria Nicole Cellars $18 2006 Viognier, Columbia Valley Jarrod Boyle has his fingers in every aspect of this Prosser, Wash., winery. He runs the winery, manages the estate vineyard in the nearby Horse Heaven Hills and makes the resulting wines. He crafted this luscious Viognier just as it should be, in stainless steel, allowing the fruit flavors and aromas to shine. This opens with elegant notes of orange Creamsicle and tropical fruits, followed by flavors of mangos, papayas, oranges and other exotic fruits. A terrific example of this northern Rhône white variety. Outstanding (WPNW) — 1,203 cases Barrister Winery $25 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Spokane winery is owned and operated by two local attorneys who are turning out some of Washington’s most stunning red wines.

This Merlot uses fruit from several Columbia Valley vineyards, and the complexity shows up immediately. Aromas of exotic spices and Rainier cherries give way to flavors of mint, spices and ripe red fruit. Graceful tannins do nothing more than offer balance to the layers of fruit, then build to a crescendo through — 258 cases the lengthy finish. Gold (NWS) Best Buy!

Columbia Crest $11 2003 Grand Estates Shiraz, Columbia Valley Ray Einberger oversees production of Washington’s largest winery. How he and his staff manage to balance mass quantities with high quality is one of life’s great mysteries. This Syrah opens with aromas that reminded us more of Côte-Rôtie than Barossa, thanks to notes of bacon and focused black fruit. On the palate, the fruit virtually explodes with flavors of plush cherries, black olives, molasses and blackberry

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:10 PM

Page 83

platinum jam. It comes off as much more complex than its price tag, no doubt.

Double Gold (Wash.)

— 24,000 cases DiStefano Winery $36 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Mark Newton started his professional life as a nuclear engineer before his passion led him to begin making sparkling wine then moving on to Bordeaux- and Rhône-style wines he now focuses on. This boldly structured Cab opens with smoky aromas of black cherries, chocolate and even toasted walnuts, giving way to dense flavors of black fruit balanced with fairly assertive tannins that mellow toward the finish. A nicely balanced, well— 890 cases crafted red. Gold (SF) DiStefano Winery $22 2005 Viognier, Columbia Valley In our Summer issue, we called this, “one of the finest Viogniers you’ll likely come across.” Six months later, that opinion hasn’t changed.

This white wine opens with aromas of sweet oranges, traces of limes and hints of starfruit, pineapples and mineral tones, followed by flavors of tropical and citrus fruits. Viognier is naturally soft in acidity, yet winemaker Hillary Sjolund manages to keep everything in balance here. Outstanding (WPNW) — 169 cases Griffin Creek $35 2004 Syrah, Rogue Valley Willamette Valley Vineyards has championed the Rhône’s most famous red from this Rogue Valley vineyard for several years, and winemaker Forrest Klaffke continues to make one of the state’s finest. This starts off with aromas of coffee, tar, blackberry jam and even a hint of ripe strawberries. All of this gives way to juicy, opulent flavors of fresh raspberries, cinnamon and ripe plums. Enjoy with prime rib, duck or — 318 cases barbecued ribs. Best Red (Oregon) Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $9 CDN 2006 Proprietors’ Reserve Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley Thanks to its northerly climes, British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is able to produce some of the Northwest’s most steely Rieslings. This is from one of the province’s largest wineries, and it shows off aromas of apples, starfruit and apricots. On the palate are flavors of spices, green apples and limes. This is a seriously good white wine that could be enjoyed with pork, chicken or — 6,000 cases shellfish. Gold (OWF) Joie Wines $19 CDN 2006 Muscat, Okanagan Valley The husband-wife team of Michael Dinn and Heidi Noble are former restaurateurs who decided early on to make wines they wanted to consume with fresh regional ingredients. As we judged this wine, we were led to think about what we might want to eat, and the ideas ranged from Thai to mild curries, thanks to this Muscat’s beguiling aromas and flavors. It shows off notes of rosewater, spices and aro-

mas on the nose and fresh orchard and citrus fruit on the palate. Gold (ACWC) — 669 cases Joie Wines $18 CDN 2006 Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley We would be lying if we told you we didn’t find the trend to make Chardonnay in stainless steel somewhat refreshing. It certainly is with this white wine from British Columbia’s Naramata Bench. It opens with aromas of fresh pineapples and apples and flavors of pineapples, pears and apples. So that’s what Chardonnay tastes like!

Gold (NWS) — 160 cases LaVelle Vineyards $15 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley In Germany, Rieslings tend to be high in acidity and fruit and low in alcohol. In the New World, we get a bit more sunlight than Germany, so our Rieslings can tend to be riper, fruitier and higher in alcohol. This Riesling from a longtime Elmira, Ore., producer offers some of the best of both worlds, with lower alcohol (10.7%) along with salivating aromas and flavors. It starts with notes of minerals, green apples and mowed grass on the nose, followed by flavors of pineapples and green apples with some sweetness around the edges. Best White (NWS), Gold — 513 cases (LBGC, GHA) Maryhill Winery $32 2004 Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This rising star on Washington’s side of the Columbia Gorge stayed close to home with this wine, using grapes from the nearby Tudor and Gunkel vineyards to craft a wine worthy of Chianti Classico. This opens with big aromas of cranberries and Rainier cherries, followed by dense flavors of red plums, bright cherries and black raspberries. Gold (NWS, Chron) — 513 cases O•S Winery $38 2004 BSH, Columbia Valley The winery formerly known as Owen-Sullivan had to change its name a couple of years ago because a winery with a similar name protested. But that hasn’t changed the winemaking or style of this Seattle producer. This is a Cabdominated blend whose initials let you know it’s as solid as a brick house. This is an intense wine with complex aromas of black cherries, walnuts and black currants, followed by focused flavors of ripe black cherries and — 525 cases black tea. Outstanding (WPNW) Robert Karl Cellars $29 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Joe Gunselman reaches into four vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills for this big red wine that is mostly Cab (86%) but also blends in a bit of the four other main red Bordeaux grapes. It opens with complex aromas of sweet herbs, black olives, dark fruit and a whisper of smoke, followed by broad

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

flavors of ripe plums, blackberries and a touch of toastiness. A well-balanced, well— 725 cases crafted wine. Gold (NWS) Saint Laurent Winery $18 2004 Merlot, Wahluke Slope Frankly, we aren’t sure winemaker Craig Mitrakul is old enough to drink — even after we checked his driver’s license. But he’s the fresh face of this new kid on the block, a winery downriver from Wenatchee, Wash., whose estate vineyards are on the venerable Wahluke Slope.

This is a complete Merlot with aromas of Bing cherries and blueberries and easy-going flavors of cherries. The seamless tannins provide a velvety mouth feel, making this a wine that goes down easily. Gold (LA, Wash.) — 815 cases Saviah Cellars $35 2004 Big Sky Cuvée, Columbia Valley Eastern Washington’s wide-open spaces perhaps inspired winemaker Richard Funk to name this red blend after his native Montana.

The grapes come from two top Washington vineyards: Stillwater Creek and Champoux.

It’s a Merlot-dominated blend that reveals aromas of swet spices and black cherries and complex flavors of blueberries, blackberries and cherries. Sweet tannins balance structure and finesse. Outstanding (WPNW) — 318 cases Sweet Cheeks Winery $15 2006 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley This winery near Eugene, Ore., relies on fruit from its 65-acre estate vineyard planted to four varieties, including Pinot Gris. This shows off fresh aromas of pears, apples and tropical fruit and bright flavors of ripe pears, fresh-cut apples and mouth-watering acidity.

Gold (NWS) — 1,378 cases Three Rivers Winery $21 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Winemaker Holly Turner blended Cabernet Sauvignon from seven vineyards across the huge Columbia Valley. This complexity shows up in the glass with aromas of sweet herbs and dark fruit, followed by intense flavors of black currants and black cherries. Well-managed tannins provide structure without getting in the way of the wine.

Gold (Dallas) — 2,067 cases Volcano Vineyards $28 2004 Aguila Vineyard Syrah, Rogue Valley This winery in downtown Bend, Ore., is run

by Scott and Liz Radcliff, who also feature wines from other Northwest producers in their tasting room, an interesting and unique concept. This is a sturdy Syrah with aromas and flavors of blackberries, cola, molasses and ripe plums. It’s a well-crafted, well-balanced — 196 cases wine. Gold (Chron) Arrowleaf Cellars $15 CDN 2006 Bacchus, Okanagan Valley This unusual white grape variety, a cross of

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

83

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:11 PM

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

Page 84

platinum

Silvaner, Riesling and Müller-Thurgau and named for the Roman god of wine, can result in delicious wines when grown in cooler climates. Arrowleaf, which is located next to the much larger Gray Monk Estate Winery north of Kelowna, B.C., has turned out a delicious Bacchus. It offers aromas and flavors of of flowers, sweet spices, pears and tropical fruits. An easy-drinking wine to enjoy with a — 1,000 cases picnic. Gold (ACWC)

Pend d’Oreille Winery $20 2004 Merlot, Washington Owner/winemaker Steve Meyer relies on grapes from Washington’s Columbia Valley for this delicious Merlot in his Idaho Panhandle operation. This shows off aromas of dark fruit, black olives, a hint of sweet herbs and a good dose of oak, followed by flavors of bold black cherries. The moderate tannins give this a silky finish. Best of Show (Idaho) — 415 cases

Blasted Church Vineyards $26 CDN 2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley Named after a church in Okanagan Falls, B.C., that needed to be moved in 1929 and was literally blasted off its foundation, dismantled and moved 16 miles down the road, this winery is all about whimsical labels and serious wines. This Merlot is a class act, thanks to aromas and flavors of spicy oak, black cherries and black tea. Its gentle tannins lead to a lengthy farewell. Outstanding (WPNW), Gold (ACWC) — 650 cases

Portteus Winery $24 2005 Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills Count on Paul Portteus to continue pioneering different grape varieties in the western Yakima Valley.

The longtime grape grower and winemaker has crafted a luscious Malbec in a somewhat cooler region. This red wine opens with aromas of black pepper, blackberry jam, plum sauce and spicy oak, followed by full flavors of black currants, black raspberries and blackberries. Gold (Wash.)

— 220 cases

Dunham & Froese Estate Winery $16 CDN 2006 Night Hawk Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley This new producer is off to a fast start with a Pinot Blanc that shows off aromas of ripe melons, fennel root and mild oak. On the palate are rich, clean flavors of honeydew and sweet spices. Enjoy with crab cakes or — 200 cases scallops. Gold (OWF) Eaton Hill Winery $32 2003 Konnawac Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley Tucked away in the Yakima Valley, Eaton Hill quietly is producing some superb wines that tend to fall well below most wine lovers’ radars. Now is the time to discover what Eaton Hill is up to. This vineyard-designated Cab reveals aromas of sexy chocolate and opulent dark fruit, followed by flavors of black cherries, sweet spices and dark chocolate. This is a sensual, hedonistic wine. Best of Class (PR), Gold — 238 cases (GHA) Best Buy!

Glenugie Winery $10 CDN 2005 Gamay Noir, Okanagan Valley Located just north of the border in Langley, B.C., Glenugie Winery gets some of its grapes from the Okanagan Valley. This Gamay is spot on, thanks to aromas and flavors of dark fruit, black pepper and a hint of oak, coffee and chocolate. Gold (ACWC) — 500 cases Helix by Reininger $22 2004 Syrah, Columbia Valley Winemaker Chuck Reininger relies upon Syrah grapes from three distinctive vineyards for this affordable red, including Clifton Hill and Stone Tree on the Wahluke Slope and Patina in the Walla Walla Valley. The wine opens with aromas of black cherries, leather and spicy oak, followed by deep flavors of blackberries and plums. A polished, well-made wine. Gold — 672 cases (Chron)

84

Snake River Winery $18 2005 Arena Valley Vineyard Barbera, Idaho Best known in the northwest corner of Italy, Barbera is now having some success in the Pacific Northwest. This red wine from Idaho’s Snake River Valley reveals aromas of dark fruit, black pepper, chocolate and coffee, followed by flavors of black plums, blackberries and black tea. After tasting this example, our judges thought more Barbera should be planted in this region. Gold (Dallas) — 235 cases Three Rivers Winery $39 2003 Red Meritage, Columbia Valley This particular Bordeaux-style blend from one of Walla Walla’s showcase wineries has earned its way into our Platinum Judging for the second consecutive year. It continues to shine, thanks to aromas of sweet spices and dark fruit and flavors of broad, expressive blackberries and good structure for pairing with grilled meats. Gold (Finger Lakes) — 613 cases Vin du Lac Winery $18 2006 Vie! Viognier, Columbia Valley Vin du Lac has developed into one of Washington’s top wineries in a short period of time, thanks to one great wine after another. This Viognier topped our judging of the variety last summer. Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker used grapes from the Yakima Valley and Lake Chelan to craft a white wine with surprising acidity. It offers aromas and flavors of oranges, white peaches and pineapples.

Outstanding (WPNW) — 300 cases Vitis Ridge $12 2006 Early Muscat, Willamette Valley This Silverton, Ore., winery is making several delicious wines. This white variety is somewhat rare amid the various versions of Muscats, though it has a good following in Oregon.

This opens with aromas of rosewater and melons, followed by flavors of lychee, pas-

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

sionfruit, rosewater and citrus. It’s deliciously balanced. Gold (Oregon) — 103 cases Wild Goose Vineyards $19 CDN 2006 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley Winemaker Hagen Kruger continues his mastery of this German variety, crafting a white wine with distinctive aromas of lychee and sweet spices and flavors of Texas pink grapefruit, cloves, lychee and nutmeg. Bright acidity is the hallmark of Okanagan Valley Gewürztraminers, and this certainly has it.

Gold (ACWC) — 800 cases Basel Cellars $32 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Visitors to this winery south of Walla Walla tend to be amazed by the stunningly beautiful and castle-like facility. They are equally pleased with the winery’s offerings. In a year when few grapes were available in the Walla Walla Valley, Basel was able to obtain grapes from Ste. Michelle’s historic Cold Creek Vineyard for this Cab. This opens with aromas of black plums, berries and oak and dense flavors of black cherries, black pepper and dark chocolate. Gold (LBGC) — 580 cases Canoe Cove $25 CDN 2003 Cab-Merlot, Okanagan Valley Canoe Cove, a second label for Domaine de Chaberton Estate Winery in B.C.’s Fraser Valley, uses grapes obtained from the Okanagan Valley for this Bordeaux-style blend. It’s an elegant wine with aromas of raspberries and blackberries and rich flavors of black cherries, dark chocolate and a hint of — 1,500 cases black tea. Gold (NWS) Best Buy!

Columbia Crest $11 2004 Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley Washington’s largest winery also is the state’s largest producer of Merlot. Winemaker Ray Einberger relies on fruit primarily from the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope for this supple red. It opens with perfumed aromas of cherries, raspberries and mocha, followed by rich flavors of bold black cherries and blackberries. It’s a great wine at a stunning price. Double Gold/Best Merlot (Wash.), — 140,000 cases Gold (RIWC) Covey Run Winery $13 2005 Winemaker’s Collection Chardonnay, Columbia Valley If you’re looking for a big, round, boldly flavored Chardonnay, here you go. Winemaker Kerry Norton (who has since moved up the company ladder to Columbia Winery) crafted a wine that opens with aromas of butter and tropical fruits, followed by flavors of ripe apples, pineapples and a buttery midpalate and finish.

Best of Class (PR) — 4,121 cases Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards $20 2002 Tradition, Columbia Valley Jeff Gordon has been growing wine grapes on

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

11:23 AM

Page 85

platinum cliffs above the Snake River in Eastern Washington for a quarter-century, and he relies on those estate grapes for all his wines.

This New World blend of Cab, Merlot and Syrah reveals aromas and flavors of sweet black fruit, chocolate and sweet spices. Mild oak adds complexity without getting in the — 470 cases way of all the fruit. Gold (SF) Kermode Wild Berry Wines $28 CDN 2006 Blackcap Raspberry Port, Fraser Valley Fritz and Bob Sprieszl run this fruit winery in B.C.’s Fraser Valley, relying on many of the edible wild berries available in their area. One of several wines made by Kermode, this is a gorgeous fortified wine. It opens with rich aromas of raspberries, followed by flavors of raisins, plums, blackberries and chocolatecovered cherries. It’s a well-made wine that will appeal to the most serious Port lovers.

Gold (ACWC) — 102 cases Kestrel Vintners $20 2005 Old Vine Estate Chardonnay, Yakima Valley Kestrel’s estate vineyard contains some of Washington’s oldest vines, some dating back to 1972. This intriguing wine reveals aromas of Jonagold apples, pineapples and bananas, followed by ripe flavors with impressive acidity and a nice hint of sweet butter.

Unlike many Chardonnays, this wine has broad food-pairing possibilities. Gold (Chron) — 322 cases Lost Mountain Winery $23 2005 Boushey Vineyards Sangiovese, Yakima Valley Steve and Sue Conca craft some luscious reds high in the hills above Sequim, Wash. Their grapes come from some of Eastern Washington’s finest vineyards, and they prefer to keep the sulfites in their wines low. This Sangiovese opens with aromas of bright red fruit, followed by youthful flavors of black cherries and black pepper. Gold — 126 cases (NWS) Tualatin Estate $16 2006 Semi-Sparkling Muscat Frizzante, Willamette Valley This is by far one of the the most fun styles of wine made. It’s bright, thanks to the bright bubbles. It’s sweet, thanks to the 12.3% residual sugar. And it’s easy to drink, thanks to the low 6.4% alcohol.

It shows off aromas and flavors of rosewater, citrus and apples and is deliciously light and refreshing. This is one of at least three such wines made in Oregon — and frankly, there should be more. Gold (Oregon) — 1,220 cases Tualatin Estate $28 2005 Tualatin Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This Willamette Valley vineyard and producer owned by Willamette Valley Vineyards, has been a reliable producer of Pinot Noir since the ’70s. Its distinctive style reveals aromas of darker fruit, such as black cherries, and its flavors include notes of dark, rich fruit and hints of mild chocolate.

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

It’s a medium-bodied wine that will pair well with veal or duck. Gold (Oregon) — 400 cases

the muscular side, but the ample fruit more than keeps up with it. Gold (NWS) — 316 cases

Waterbrook Winery $45 2003 WB Primarius Meritage, Columbia Valley Seattle’s Precept Brands acquired this longtime Walla Walla winery a year ago, and it is one of the stars of Precept’s portfolio. This is a high-end Bordeaux-style blend that is predominently Cab but also includes big percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It shows off aromas of blueberries and blackberries and flavors of dark cherries, blueberries and dark chocolate. It’s beautifully balanced between acidity, tannin and oak and is delicious from beginning to — 356 cases end. Outstanding (WPNW)

Best Buy!

Cowan Vineyards $16 2004 Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley This fairly young, family-owned vineyard and winery in Prosser, Wash., is crafting some silky red wines. This Cab Franc from estate grapes shows off notes of dark fruits and black olives, followed by flavors of dried cherries and leather. An underlying complexity provides a sexy characteristic that makes this wine espe— 311 cases cially enjoyable. Gold (NWS) Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $22 CDN 2006 Optimum Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley Walter and Gordon Gehringer began their family winemaking operation in 1985 after studying at Germany’s top universities, and their hallmark has been superbly made white wines. This Pinot Gris reveals aromas and flavors of fresh orchard fruit and bal— 430 cases anced acidity. Gold (ACWC) Best Buy!

Snoqualmie Vineyards $8 2006 Winemaker’s Select Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker Joy Andersen has Riesling lovers talking with this beautiful white wine. It’s pretty sweet at 5% residual sugar, and its modest alcohol and good acidities boost the aromas and flavors of minerals, pears, apples and sweet spices.

Double Gold/Best Riesling (SF) — 34,000 cases Spangler Vineyards $24 2005 Sundown Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon This vineyard-designated Cab Franc shows off aromas and flavors of blackberries, green olives and black raspberries. This red has good density and plenty of ripe fruit. Double Gold/Chairman’s Award — 320 cases (RIWC) Three Rivers Winery $50 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Holly Turner uses grapes from one of Washington’s finest vineyards for this Cab that is superb now and will only get better with some cellar aging. It opens with aromas of classic black currants and plums, followed by flavors of harmonious black fruit and bittersweet chocolate. The tannins are on

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

Thurston Wolfe $15 2005 Lemberger, Horse Heaven Hills Wade Wolfe has championed this grape for a couple of decades, and he’s been behind some of the best in the Yakima Valley during those years. This is a superb example, thanks to aromas and flavors of black cherries, plums and blackberries. The moderate oak is wonderfully integrated and the midpalate is bright and spicy. Pair with grilled meats or pasta dishes. Gold (Dallas) — 172 cases Vin du Lac Winery $20 2005 Barrel Select Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Larry Lehmbecker used grapes from historic Upland Vineyards in the Yakima Valley and his own estate Michaela’s Vineyard in Lake Chelan for this lusicous Chardonnay. It offers aromas and flavors of sweet oak, pineapples, butter and vanila. Gold (NWS, PR) — 396 cases Columbia Gardens Vineyard & Winery $15 CDN 2006 Garden Gold, Okanagan Valley This proprietary white blend shows off bright and distinctive aromas and flavors of gooseberries, minerals, lychee, grapefruits and various orchard fruit notes, along with such spices and cloves and coriander. Gold (ACWC) Best Buy!

Covey Run Winery $9 2004 Quail Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Covey Run has developed into one of the Northwest’s great bargain wineries, but it doesn’t sacrifice quality, as is evidenced with this Cab. It offers aromas and flavors of black cherries, chocolate and black currants. The tannins do not overwhelm the fruit but rather provide superb balance. This is priced and crafted for everyday enjoyment.

Gold (NWS) — 27,500 cases Best Buy!

Maryhill Winery $12 2005 Winemaker’s Blend, Columbia Valley This Bordeaux-style red blend is nicely priced and also is beautifully made it shows off aromas and flavors of blueberries, black currants, black pepper and toasted walnuts. Gold (GHA) — 6,167 cases

GOLD Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $45 CDN 2006 Grand Reserve Riesling Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Gold (NWS) — 450 cases Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2006 Classic Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC)

Spindrift Cellars 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Gold (NWS)

$14 CDN — 2,550 cases $38 — 108 cases

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

85

70-87 platinum

12/6/07

2:11 PM

Page 86

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

platinum

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Albariño, Southern Oregon Gold (NWS)

Starling Lane Winery 2005 Wild Blackberry Port, Vancouver Island Gold (NWS)

Three Rivers Winery 2006 White Meritage, Columbia Valley Gold (WCWC)

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2005 Bordheauxd Red, Columbia Valley Gold (NWS)

Dunham Cellars 2005 Four Legged White, Washington Gold (NWS)

Lone Canary 2003 Proprietor’s Reserve, Yakima Valley Gold (Dallas)

Sweet Cheeks Winery 2006 Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley Gold (IEWC)

Three Rivers Winery 2004 Red Meritage, Columbia Valley Gold (WCWC)

Vin du Lac Winery 2004 Barrel Select Malbec, Yakima Valley Gold (NWS)

$23 — 633 cases $23 — 110 cases $19 — 884 cases $26 — 425 cases $19

Chateau Ste. Michelle $26 2004 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Gold (NWS, Wash.)

— 12,000 cases Columbia Gardens Vineyard & Winery 2006 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley

Best Buy!

Covey Run Winery $8 2005 Quail Series Morio Muscat, Columbia Valley Gold (NWS) — 3,000 cases Gray Monk Estate Winery $16 CDN 2005 Chardonnay Unwooded, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC) — 4,600 cases

—2,378 cases $30

Hoodsport Winery 2005 Merlot, Columbia Valley

$17 — 2,000 cases

Outstanding (WPNW)

— 169 cases $20 — 693 cases $39 — 388 cases $35 — 100 cases

Arrowleaf Cellars $16 CDN 2006 The Snow Tropics Vidal, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC) — 500 cases

L’Ecole No 41 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley

Double Gold (GHA)

Gray Monk Estate Winery 2006 Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley Gold (Indy)

Hawks View Winery NV Wild Blackberry, Oregon Gold/Best nongrape wine (NWS)

Lang Vineyards $25 CDN 2006 Signature Series Optima, Okanagan Valley Gold (Indy) — 278 cases Merry Cellars $30 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley — 127 cases

Gold (Indy)

Sky River Mead NV Semi-Sweet Mead, Washington

$14 — 2,000 cases

$28 — 1,330 cases $17 CDN — 2,900 cases $20

Gold (NWS)

Saint Laurent Winery 2003 La Bohème, Wahluke Slope Gold (Chron, Indy)

Saint Laurent Winery 2005 Chardonnay, Wahluke Slope Gold (Indy)

Saint Laurent Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope Gold (NWS, Wash., GHA)

— 875 cases $35 — 200 cases $18 — 329 cases

— 223 cases

Double Gold (Wash.), Outstanding (WPNW)

— 304 cases

Gold (Chron, Dallas)

Gold (RIWC)

Barrister Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Double Gold (TC), Gold (NWS)

Chateau Lorane 2005 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Oregon Gold (NWS)

Baer Winery 2003 Arctos, Columbia Valley

$34 — 217 cases

Outstanding (WPNW)

Barrister Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Gold (WCWC)

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2006 Viognier, Columbia Valley Outstanding (WPNW)

$25 — 395 cases $25 — 206 cases

Erath Vineyards $30 2005 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Gold (Chron) — 6,871 cases Firesteed Cellars 2005 Pinot Gris, Oregon

$10

Gold (Oregon)

$28

$32

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley

86

$18 CDN

Saviah Cellars 2005 Une Vallée , Walla Walla Valley

Terra Blanca Winery & Estate Vineyard 2002 Block 8 Reserve Syrah, Red Mountain

Willamette Valley Vineyards $18 2006 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Gold (NWS) — 16,000 cases

— 150 cases

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate $33 CDN 2004 Sunrock Vineyard Merlot, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC) — 500 cases Pentage Wines 2006 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley

$36 — 1,771 cases

Gold (NWS)

Gold (LBGC)

Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2003 Syrah, Washington

$15 CDN

Gold (ACWC)

L’Ecole No 41 $37 2004 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Gold (NWS) — 517 cases

San Juan Vineyards 2004 Syrah, Yakima Valley Gold (Wash.)

$38

Maryhill Winery 2004 Syrah, Columbia Valley Gold (INWC)

$20 — 1,345 cases

— 645 cases $16

Best of Class (LBGC), Gold (Indy)

— 825 cases $25 — 62 cases

San Juan Vineyards 2004 Cab-Merlot, Yakima Valley

— 5,100 cases

Sawtooth Winery 2005 Reserve Chardonnay, Idaho Gold (Idaho)

Maryhill Winery 2006 Viognier, Columbia Valley Gold (LBGC)

Saggi 2004 Red Wine, Columbia Valley Outstanding (WPNW)

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

$15 — 728 cases

$16

— 21,000 cases $25

Best Buy!

Gold (NWS, Indy)

Maryhill Winery 2006 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley

$19 — 560 cases

$18 — 3,700 cases $45 — 633 cases

$15 — 150 cases

Starling Lane Winery 2005 Pinot Noir, Vancouver Island

$24 CDN

Gold (NWS)

— 50 cases

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2004 Claret, Southern Oregon Outstanding (WPNW)

$35 — 243 cases

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

70-87 platinum

12/4/07

12:30 PM

Page 87

platinum Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2005 Dry Rock Merlot, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC)

$16 CDN — 950 cases

Northstar Cellars 2003 Merlot, Columbia Valley

Del Rio Vineyards 2004 Merlot, Rogue Valley

Pavin and Riley 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Double Gold (Chron)

Sandhill Winery 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain Gold (NWS)

$41 — 9,137 cases

$10

Spring Valley Vineyard 2004 Frederick, Walla Walla Valley Outstanding (WPNW)

Tildio Winery 2004 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley Gold (NWS)

Volcano Vineyards 2004 Aguila Vineyard Merlot, Rogue Valley Gold (NWS)

Williamson Vineyards 2004 Syrah, Idaho Gold (PR)

Winter’s Hill Vineyard 2004 White Gold Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills Double Gold (GHW), Gold (NWS, Dallas)

Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2004 Intuition, Columbia Valley Gold (NWS)

Outstanding (WPNW)

$20

Double Gold (Chron), Gold (Wash.)

E.B. Foote Winery 2004 Perfect a Trois, Columbia Valley Best Washington Wine (NWS), Outstanding (WPNW)

$24 — 248 cases

Evergreen Vineyards $32 2004 Del-Mar Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley — 295 cases

Gold (Indy)

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Cuvée Brut, Columbia Valley Best Sparkling Wine (NWS)

Chateau Ste Michelle $18 2004 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley — 20,000 cases

Outstanding (WPNW)

$28 — 149 cases

Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

$23 — 5,700 cases

Gray Monk Estate Winery 2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC)

$16 CDN — 5,100 cases

— 1,550 cases

$50

Spangler Vineyards 2006 Viognier, Southern Oregon Outstanding (WPNW)

$16 — 344 cases

Three Rivers Winery 2004 Ahler Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Gold (Wine Fest)

$39 — 233 cases

— 987 cases $20

Troon Vineyard 2006 River Guide White Gold (NWIWC)

— 124 cases $26

Double Gold (Indy)

$18 — 195 cases $25 — 142 cases $45 — 175 cases

$10

$18 — 1,100 cases

Whitestone Winery NV Pieces of Red, Columbia Valley

— 128 cases

$20 — 412 cases

Winter’s Hill Vineyard 2006 Dry Rosé, Dundee Hills Gold (NWS)

$16 — 340 cases

Cliff Creek 2004 Syrah, Rogue Valley Gold (NWS)

$35 — 685 cases

DiStefano Winery 2003 Sogno, Columbia Valley Gold (WWC)

$29 — 644 cases

E.B. Foote Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Gold (NWS)

$18 — 218 cases

— 5,000 cases

Chateau Ste. Michelle $24 2004 Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Best of Class (LBGC) — 2,500 cases Claar Cellars 2003 White Bluffs Merlot, Columbia Valley

— 16,731 cases

Best of Class (PR), Gold (Dallas, IEWC)

Best Buy!

Bridgeview Vineyards 2003 Merlot, Southern Oregon

$25

— 2,500 cases

Sonoran Estate Winery $25 CDN 2004 Intimate Gamay Noir Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley Gold (NWS) — 95 cases

Chateau Ste. Michelle $18 2005 Indian Wells Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Gold (RIWC) — 34,000 cases

Gold (PR)

Gold (NWS, Dallas)

Best Buy!

CedarCreek Estate Winery $40 CDN 2004 Platinum Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC) — 704 cases

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Kermode Wild Berry Wines $20 CDN 2006 Himalaya Blackberry Port, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC) — 845 cases

Gold (RIWC, SD, GHA)

Anam Cara Cellars $30 2005 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains Gold (NWS) — 678 cases

TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

$17

Seven Stones Winery 2005 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Gold (ACWC)

$25 CDN — 150 cases

Best Buy!

Ste. Chapelle 2003 Winemaker’s Series Syrah, Idaho Gold (NWIWC)

$9 — 2,000 cases

— 252 cases $12

Terra Blanca Winery & Estate Vineyard 2005 Viognier, Yakima Valley Gold (Finger Lakes)

$15 — 1,506 cases

— 191,540 cases Best Buy!

Rocky Creek Winery 2005 Pinot Noir, Vancouver Island Gold (NWS)

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2004 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley Gold (Indy)

Terra Blanca Winery & Estate Vineyard 2002 Syrah, Red Mountain Gold (Finger Lakes)

$20 CDN — 150 cases $23 — 600 cases $20 — 3,267 cases

Vin du Lac Winery $28 2003 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley Gold (NWS, Wash.)

— 205 cases

➤ F O R M O R E W I N N I N G W I N E S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / M E D A L S

Afternoon Wine Co. (Snake River Winery) 2005 Northwest White, American Gold (Dallas)

Granite Creek Estate Wines 2005 Gamay Noir, Okanagan Valley Gold (NWS)

$10 — 540 cases $25 CDN — 300 cases

AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest. Read his blog, The Wine Knows, at www.winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

87

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:26 AM

Page 88

Marshal’s Winery World-class wines, great selection with small production quality Taste our new release!

2004 Cab Franc

“It’s Phenomenal!”

Tasting Room Open daily: daylight to dark and then some 150 Oak Creek Rd, Dallesport, WA 1/4 mile E of Hwy 197 & Hwy 14 interchange

509-767-4633 Fax: 509-767-2194

Excellent case discounts • Shipping available www.marshalsvineyard.com • marshalswinery@gorge.net

Maryhill Winery 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA

Tasting Room Open daily 10-6 • Gold medal wines • Huge Gift Shop selection www.maryhillwinery.com

88

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

1-877MARYHILL

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:27 AM

Page 89

“Outstanding Washington Wine List ’02, ’03, ’04, ’05, ’06” — Wine Press Northwest.

Imaginative NW cuisine in a casual and relaxed atmosphere.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

89

90-95 Match Makers

12/4/07

12:20 PM

Page 90

M AT C H M A K E R S

Sablefish Brined with Venturi-Schulze Aceto Balsamico, Topped with VenturiSchulze Brut Naturel-affected Sabayon

90

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

90-95 Match Makers

12/4/07

12:21 PM

Page 91

M AT C H M A K E R S WINE

Brut & Vinegar

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards $32 CND 2004 Brut Naturel, Vancouver Island —125 cases produced

Northwest chefs use VenturiSchulze’s Aceto Balsamico and Brut Naturel as inspiration

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards $49 CND NV Aceto Balsamico, Vancouver Island —165 cases produced

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

SOOKE HARBOUR HOUSE SOOKE, BRITISH COLUMBIA

THE CASE COULD BE MADE THAT EDWARD Tuson deserves to be leading the life of one of those rock star celebrity chefs.

Instead, he’s well-grounded with deep roots on Vancouver Island and in control — for the most part — of the remarkable and everchanging menu at the famed Sooke Harbour House.

It’s a lifestyle choice, one of substance over style. And while he’s tucked away on the beautiful British Columbia coastline, being the longtime executive

chef at one of the world’s most acclaimed boutique resorts provides him as much fanfare as he wants.

“I’m not a city person,” he said, relaxing on a garden bench and gazing at the Olympic Mountains across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. “I did the city thing, but not for very long. I was born on the island in Nanaimo, and I’ve been all over the world. But I come back here and go, ‘It’s really beautiful here.’ I don’t think I’ve ever taken that for granted.”

For Tuson, 43, there’s no better way to appreciate his island than to tour on his Ducati or one of three high-performance Suzuki motorbikes. All it takes is a rightturn from the driveway of his nearby farm, which he shares with his girlfriend and his pigs.

“I’m a motorcycle freak,” he said, voicing particularly pride when talking about the 1989 Suzuki GSX-R 750 he’s restored. “Out here, you live on the gateway to roadrace heaven. All the roads are windy. If I lived in the city, I’d get a million tickets and have to drive 11⁄2 hours to get to a windy road. Here, I can go for a little ride of 30 to 45 minutes before work and have a blast.”

His professional surroundings call for a much more leisurely pace. In fact, Sinclair Philip demands it. The

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

It’s all in the family at Venturi-Schulze.

Everything is grown on their Cobble Hill vineyard in the Cowichan Valley of Vancouver Island, and the exacting care patriarch Giordano Venturi exerts on the winery begins each morning with his jog — which is three times around their 20-acre vineyard.

This Match Maker project seemed to be an ideal fit for the Sooke Harbour House because Giordano, the winemaker; his wife/microbiologist, Marilyn; and stepdaughter/vineyard manager, Michelle Willcock Schulze, adhere to “natural sustainability.” They eschew irrigation and use no herbicides or pesticides.

The 2004 Brut Naturel features a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Gris and Kerner, and this sparkling wine is guarded by an unpretentious crown cap rather than cork.

“Our Brut Naturel is unique in that I add nothing when I disgorge the bottles, so it has no residual sweetness and no added sulfites,” said Marilyn, a native of Australia.

“I am not aware of any other bottle-fermented wine in North America that has zero residual sugar.”

It is a serious sparkler, bone-dry with notes of pears, freshly baked bread, crushed walnuts and light citrus.

Now, the tale of their intense balsamic vinegar carries a bit of romanticism.

Giordano emigrated to Canada from Modeno, Italy, so he crafts vinegars by tradition, slowly simmering juice — primarily from Madeleine Sylvaner — over an open fire. He ages this nectar up to 17 years in Italian barrels made from acacia, ash, cherry, oak and chestnut. However, the “mother barrel” dates to 1970 and each 250-milliliter bottle carries a drop or two of her legacy and others via the solera system. Of the vinegars he recently added to the nursery, he said, “These won’t be my problem.

They will be Michelle’s.”

And she earned top marks in her first winemaking course from UC-Davis.

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards, 4234 Trans Canada Highway, Cobble Hill, B.C., 250743-5630, venturischulze.com.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

91

90-95 Match Makers

12/6/07

2:12 PM

Page 92

M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Sablefish Brined with Venturi-Schulze Aceto Balsamico, Topped with VenturiSchulze Brut Naturel-affected Sabayon Serves 4

4 5-6 oz. pieces of sablefish (a.k.a. black cod) 1 ⁄2 cup water 1 ⁄2 cup Venturi-Schulze Aceto Balsamico 1 ripe Anjou, Bosc or Bartlett pear, peeled and julienned 1 medium-sized carrot, peeled and julienned 2 tablespoons sunflower seed oil or grape seed oil 3 egg yolks 2 ounces non-alcoholic pear cider 1 1⁄2 ounces Venturi Schulze Brut Naturel 1 ⁄8 cup walnuts, toasted in oven on a baking sheet at 325 °F for 6-7 minutes and lightly crushed 1. Place sablefish, balsamic vinegar and water in a small, non-corrosive bread pan. Marinate the fish for 12 hours in a refrigerator. Turn the fish over after 6 hours.

2. Remove from the marinade and place on a plate lined with paper towels.

Place the fish flesh-side down and refrigerate until ready to use.

Preheat oven to 400 °F Fill a medium-sized pot two-thirds with water and bring to a boil.

5. While the water is coming to a boil, mix the pear and the carrot in a small bowl. Pour 2 tablespoons of sunflower or grape seed oil into a large skillet and warm over medium high heat.

6. Preheat the oil in the skillet for 3-4 minutes before placing the sablefish, flesh side down, in the skillet; then put it directly in the preheated oven. Cook the fish for 7-9 minutes or until it starts to flake.

7. To prepare sabayon, place the egg yolks, pear cider and the Brut in a medium sized stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over the now boiling water.

Whisk vigorously for 3-4 minutes or until soft peaks form. Then remove from heat.

8. For the plate presentation: Remove the fish from the oven and place each piece of fish in its own bowl, then spoon 2 tablespoons of sabayon onto each piece, place a small amount of the carrot and pear salad on top of the sabayon and sprinkle with toasted walnuts. Serve.

ambiance and concept he and coowner Frederique Philip first began to cultivate at Sooke Harbour House in 1979 is refined to the level that Sinclair served as the first Canadian president in the Slow Food movement — the largest culinary organization in the world. It is dedicated to encouraging local farmers, fishermen and foragers.

“In many ways, Sooke Harbour House is an example of what Slow Food can be in North America,” Sinclair said. “About 95 percent of our food is regional, primarily from Vancouver Island. We have a greenhouse. Our garden is certified organic, and we employ a large garden staff.

We raise some of our own animals.”

Guests come to appreciate the peaceful and comfortable surroundings of the seaside property as well as the effort and the pace of the six92

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

3.

4.

course dinner. If your company is right, you are welcomed to stretch the meal to five hours. Guests of the resort take comfort in knowing their bed is a few steps away.

“We appreciate the food that we eat, and we take time to eat that food,” said Philip, nicknamed “His Slowliness” by some in the food community. “We encourage conversation amongst people and a rebuilding of not only our relationships but also the maintenance of the community we live in — both the social community and the food community.”

Regional wines have earned the centerpiece on the table, and Philip’s restaurant staff features a

long list of certified sommeliers.

“When we do our food-and-wine pairing meals, it’s generally all B.C. wine,” Tuson pointed out. “We’re here to showcase B.C. food and B.C. wine.”

Food critics are among the believers. The Toronto Globe and Mail referred to the Sooke Harbour House as the nation’s best restaurant. Gourmet Magazine rated it “Best Restaurant in the World for Authentic, Local Cuisine.”

Philip, the wine director, notes, “At least 85 percent of the wines we sell come from British Columbia.

Our Northwest region produces some pretty extraordinary wines and as good as any in the world.

When you travel to Italy or France, they drink the wines of their regions and cook with the wines of their region. What grows together goes together.”

That’s why the two acres of garden are at the heart of the resort, offering sanctuary for guests and producing the palette for Tuson and the wine staff, led by Jean-Nicolas Choquette.

“What’s interesting is that you learn to use a plant from the flower to the root,” Tuson said. “You can manipulate things in the garden to get flavors and textures of things we’re not allowed to use here.”

“We’re here to showcase B.C. food and B.C. wine.”

— EDWARD TUSON

Years of research allow Philip to grow alternatives for various reasons. Exhibit A is citrus fruit.

Something as simple as a tuberous begonia stem provides the same acidity a lemon imparts to a dish.

“You won’t see a lemon in any of the traditional French cuisine or in any of the recipes until the 1980s,” Philip said. “Lemons from California or Mexico come in by truck or plane, which are major sources of

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

90-95 Match Makers

12/6/07

2:12 PM

Page 93

M AT C H M A K E R S Tuson especially enjoyed incorporating the brut. “Sparkling wine makes great sabayon because the bubbles inflate the eggs,” he said.

Nothing in this remarkable dish outshined the rest, which is critical when working with the satiny and subtle sablefish. Tuson properly played up on the pear aspects, used the creamy and tender walnuts as bridge, performed as a maestro in balancing the vinegar, and made it all delectable, intriguing and light.

Sooke Harbour House, 1528 Whiffen Spit Road, Sooke, B.C., 800-889-9688, sookeharbourhouse.com.

ZEPHYR GRILL & BAR Edward Tuson

global warming.”

Only a two-year stint as a chef globe-trotting through Asia interrupted Tuson’s 12-year career at Sooke Harbour House.

“One of the reasons I’ve stayed here for so long is Sinclair trusts what I do,” Tuson said. “I have creative freedom within the parameters; the menu is changing all the time, and you never get bored. You are not a robot here.

“Sinclair will phone down and say, ‘I think we should use more of this’ or ‘Maybe we should grow this,’ or ‘Why don’t you do this?’ ” Tuson said. “ ‘Use more seaweed and try it in as many ways as we can’ is an example. I’ll go, ‘OK, why not?’ ” However, Tuson draws the line at dandelion greens.

“They are the most hideous things that grow here because they are so bitter!” he said.

Wine director and chef collaborated on this unique Match Maker project, which features two products — sparkling wine and a balsamic vinegar — from Venturi-Schulze Vineyards, perhaps Vancouver Island’s most famous winery.

What the chef and supervisor arrived at was sablefish brined in vinegar, topped with a brut-affected sabayon, and accompanied by julienned pear, carrot, microgreens and chopped walnuts.

The Venturi-Schulze 2004 Brut Naturel “is very dry and very crisp,” Tuson said. “I like the aspect that it’s dry, but then I like dry wines. And our sablefish, which is a fatty fish with lots of oil in it? The brut cuts right through the fats. And when I marinated the fish, I found that the vinegar actually firmed up the fish. I was shocked. Usually, vinegar is going to break down something or burn it.”

Tuson focused his attention on the pear notes of the wine.

“I thought the best way to make the dish work as a whole was to put some of the brut in the sauce, keep the pear raw and keep the dish light,” he said What confirmed the overall concept was simple experimentation.

“I drank the wine with each of the components by themselves,” Tuson said. “If it works with all of these things segregated, I was safe. It was pretty exciting.”

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

K E N T, WA S H .

NICK MUSSER WEARS THE CHEF’S JACKET at three restaurants in two states and three cities.

Such is the life of the corporate executive chef.

“The benefits are that the hours are better, and the days you work are much better,” he said.

In other words, nights and weekends off.

However, here’s a recent look into his calendar: ■ Ste. Michelle Wine Estates winemaker dinner one week at new Zephyr Grill & Bar at Kent Station.

■ Holiday cooking class at the original Zephyr in Livermore, Calif.

■ Children’s cookie decorating class in Seattle at the sister property, icon Grill.

There’s also promoting Aroused Americana Cooking, his new cookbook.

“That is all me. The family and I are going to Europe next year on frequent flier mileage,” he said with a chuckle.

It doesn’t take much Web research to realize Musser is an iron chef with a heart of gold, a 21st century Renaissance man who would make most men appear inferior.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

93

90-95 Match Makers

12/4/07

12:24 PM

Page 94

M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Walnut Fried Brie with Balsamic Glazed Pears Serves 2

2 4 1 ⁄4 1 1 ⁄4 1 1 1 1 3

1

firm red Bartlett pears tablespoons unsalted butter cup Venturi-Schulze Aceto Balsamico pinch of salt plus 1⁄2 teaspoon, divided use pinch of ground pepper cup flour 5-ounce wedge of Brie cheese egg tablespoon of milk cup walnuts, finely chopped cups of soybean oil for frying

1. Peel pears and cut in half. Core and slice each half into 6 slices.

2. Place the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and melt completely.

3. Place pears in the pan with a pinch of salt, and turn heat to medium low. Cook pears slowly, stirring constantly until pears are just cooked or about 30 minutes. It’s OK to let the butter brown a little as they cook.

4. When the pears are just slightly soft, deglaze the pan with the balsamic vinegar and continue to cook, mixing the pears often, until the vinegar reduces to a slightly thick syrupy glaze. Set aside.

5. Mix 1/2 teaspoon salt and pinch of pepper with the flour. Use this flour mixture to dust the Brie until completely coated on all sides.

Knock off any excess.

6. Beat egg and milk in a small bowl. Dip Brie into the egg coating completely. Roll the Brie in the chopped walnuts, making sure to cover completely. Set aside.

7. Bring the cooking oil to 350°F over medium heat in a deep-sided sauté pan or in a deep fryer.

Carefully drop the Brie into the oil.

8. Fry until golden brown on all sides, or about 3 minutes.

9. Drain and place directly onto a serving platter. Pour warm glazed pears over the brie and serve with fresh slices of baguette.

94

Musser, 42, plays viola in two companies. His community involvement includes Fare Start, Taste of the Nation and the Multiple Sclerosis Society. He regularly appears on Seattle television cooking shows. He takes his son, Xander, 5, and their golden retriever Astro hiking, fishing, skiing and camping.

All the while he’s been a pillar of support for his wife, Erin, who publicly battles MS. Is it any wonder why he was chosen as Redbook Magazine’s Husband of the Year in 2001?

“We were all over the radio and TV at the time, and I’ll admit it was good for my career, but the exposure also has helped my wife and other people with MS,” he said.

And this seemingly well-orchestrated career all began in Boise as a boy in the kitchen with his mom.

“I tell people my sister had the Charlie Brown cookbook that I was very enamored with,” he smirked. “I remember making little jam tarts with pastry dough. I completely destroyed the kitchen to make this one simple dish, and I never looked back.”

For years, though, his goal was to play the viola in a symphony or be a conductor, studying both at Boise State University. To make ends meet, he worked in Boise restaurants. A move to Seattle led Musser to McCormick & Schmick’s where his brash interview with acclaimed chef Christine Keff led to a long business relationship. He followed Keff to the Yarrow Bay Grill, then to Flying Fish.

“I can’t thank her enough for what she did,” Musser said. “Eventually, she told me that I really need to hone in on my own style of cooking and develop that.”

It explains his transformation from fusion and Pan-Asian cuisine to a

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

return of sorts to the traditional American comfort food of his youth.

“My folks used to always tease me for putting corn in my mashed potatoes and mixing it up. Now, people are paying me for it,” Musser said with a laugh.

In 1998, the icon Grill was about to open in downtown Seattle, and ownership recruited Musser to be the face of their new restaurant. His 10-year anniversary with the company is near, the past six years working

“We really try to support the local wineries because they appeal to our clientele, particularly in Kent”

— NICK MUSSER

for Randy Tei and Rick Winders.

Their concept of a neighborhood restaurant seems to fit nicely at Kent Station, described as a “mixed-use urban village.” That explains why free wi-fi is available and lunch is offered from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

And when it comes to the wine list at Puget Sound-area restaurants, he’s Washington first and foremost.

“We really try to support the local wineries because they appeal to our

Nick Musser

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

90-95 Match Makers

12/6/07

2:12 PM

Page 95

M AT C H M A K E R S Walnut Fried Brie with Balsamic Glazed Pears paired with Venturi-Schulze Vineyards’ Brut Naturel

clientele, particularly in Kent,” he said.

There’s an abundance of Ste. Michelle products, but there’s also a mix of midsize producers such as Bookwalter, Canoe Ridge, Duck Pond, Goose Ridge and Sagelands.

And it’s easy to spot prized boutique wines by Matthew Cellars, Sparkman Cellars and Townshend Cellar.

Checking in with Oregon Pinot Noir is Benton-Lane, Duck Pond, Erath, Firesteed and Silvan Ridge.

Wednesdays are particularly inviting for wine lovers because bottles are half-price. And Musser’s list of winemaker dinners in the past year has included Nicholas Cole Cellars and Ste. Michelle, so his acceptance as a Match Maker for the VenturiSchulze Brut Naturel and balsamic vinegar was a snap.

He arrived at Walnut Fried Brie with Balsamic Glazed Pears, which appears on his menus seasonally. It’s approachable, versatile and zeroes in on the pear and nutty notes of the Brut Naturel as well as incorporating the balsamic vinegar.

“The brut was dry and it was good, but I had to be careful because the dish couldn’t be too sweet or you’d lose the wine, so I brought the pear in a little unripe,” he pointed out.

“And it was obvious that someone went to a lot of care and effort on the balsamic vinegar. There’s a sharp tang to the vinegar, so that’s why I balanced it with the cheese, but it still allows the nice wood and full body of the vinegar to show.”

Because sparkling wines of this sort are dry, Musser’s dish works either as an appetizer or a light dessert. And because the recipe calls for pears on the crisp side, seasonality is not an issue.

Zephyr Grill and Bar, 240 W. Kent Station St., Kent, WA, 253-854-5050, zephyrgrill.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com.

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com.

➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

95

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:28 AM

Page 96

NW Winecast Every Tuesday, watch the only online video show dedicated to Northwest wine winepressnw.com/video/vodcast or the iTunes Store

The Best Deal in Wine Country Four issues for $10 ($15 in Canada)

Call 800-538-5619 96

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

44 ... Label ads

12/4/07

10:30 AM

Page 97

Once you get a taste of Sun Mountain ... you’ll never want to leave

800-572-0493 • Winthrop, WA sunmountainlodge.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

97

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:14 PM

Page 98

recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting.

Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures.

Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate.

The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity.

The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.

Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Competitions To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Oregon State Fair, Northwest Wine Summit, Okanagan Fall Wine Competition, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Northwest Wine & Food Fest and Capital Food & Wine Fest.

(39%), Stillwater Creek (29%), Conner-Lee (13%), Katherine Leone (13%) and Red Mountain Vineyard (6%) produces a luxurious drink. First, it’s cherry, spice and blackstrap molasses from French oak barreling. The payoff is a smooth mouth feel of cherries and boysenberries that trail into an endearing finish of tart raspberries and bittersweet chocolate.

Gamache Vintners 2004 Gamache-Champoux Vineyard Select Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 150 cases, $40

Excellent. The 50/50 on the bottle denotes not

only that it’s an even split of Gamache and Champoux fruit, but also that these cousins have enjoyed a combined 50 years as grape growers. There’s a greeting of sweet oak, violets, plums and plum sauce aromas. A pie cherry entry is fleshed out on the midpalate by more plums, then finished by Green & Black’s chocolate.

Olympic Cellars Winery 2004 Dionysus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 155 cases, $23

Outstanding! This vintage marked Benoit Murat’s debut at this Port Angeles, Wash., winery, and these reds portend great things for the future.

He tapped into one of the state’s most storied sites for a very gracious wine that opens with pie cherries, light strawberries, cedar, violets and toasty oak imparting almond and chocolate aromas. Cherries and brambleberries stream across a palate so balanced that tannins merely add to the finish of cherries jubilee. Enjoy this with a thick porterhouse.

Smasne Cellars

Red wines Cabernet Sauvignon Cathedral Ridge Winery 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 173 cases, $38

Outstanding! Our reigning Oregon Winery of the Year quadrupled the production of this bottling of Bangsund fruit, splashed in some Syrah (9%), lowered the price and still matched our rating of the 2004 version. Heady are the aromas of plum sauce, a cherry cough drop, moist earth, peat, blueberries and brown sugar. Then comes a bite of Hostess cherry pie and more ripe plums with luscious chocolaty tannins and a dusting of cocoa powder. It’s yummy, yet a bit low on acidity, so enjoy now.

Chateau Faire Le Pont 2004 Elerding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 170 cases, $35

Excellent. This site in the Horse Heaven Hills

offers deep aromas of plums, smoke, chocolate and cherries. The structure is soft as velour with complex flavors ranging from juicy Bing cherries, ripe blackberries to V8 juice and a stream of chocolate that runs through to the end.

98

Eaton Hill Winery 2005 Eaton Hill Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $23

Excellent. Look for this Cab, which is under gold

foil, and take note of spicy 16 months in American oak, which imparts hints of NECCO Wafer candy, toast and sarsaparilla. The oak doesn’t outshine the violets and dark cherries outside or inside. Plums and blackberries join in with mild tannins, good acidity and a taste of chocolate in the finish. Pair this lamb, venison, lasagna or beef.

Eaton Hill Winery

2004 Smasne Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 45 cases, $42

Excellent. This is the serious label for Robert

Smasne’s Prosser Wine Company operation, and the family’s longtime vineyard allowed him to produce a wine with a bouquet of black cherries, black currants, cola and perfumy oak. A tilt allows you to take in big flavors of more cherries, cola and currant. A balanced structure allows wild chokecherries and cranberries to flourish in the finish. Enjoy this with grilled meats.

Pinot Noir

2005 Konnowac Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Amity Vineyards

Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $23

2006 Eco-Wine Pinot Noir

Recommended. This Granger, Wash., winery is

Willamette Valley, 871 cases, $23

getting ready to celebrate its 20th anniversary, and winemaker Gary Rogers put this super-ripe Cab under Hungarian oak for 15 months. It’s very quaffable with hedonistic notes of cherry liqueur, blackberries, blueberries vanilla and creamy Bosco chocolate syrup, but there’s a stream of boysenberry acidity to keep the sweetness in check through the moderate finish.

Outstanding! Myron Redford was credited with Oregon’s first organically grown, no-sulfiteadded Pinot Noir in 1991. Fifteen years later, it’s also Salmon Safe certified. Credit must go to the Pinot producing vineyards — Croft in Monmouth and Stater in Dundee — as well as Meadow Vineyards in Junction City for the Maréchal Foch (5%). So fresh and tasty is this whole-cluster style that upon introduction it might be confused with raspberry, boysenberry or huckleberry wine. Myron suggests black beans, pastas, fish or picnic fare, and it’s worthy of approaching as you would a nouveau Beaujolais.

Fidelitas Wines 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 715 cases, $30

Excellent. A treasure trove from Champoux

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/4/07

2:57 PM

Page 99

recent releases Apolloni Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 447 cases, $29

Recommended. Estate sites named Filippo, Olivia

and Flaminia planted with Pommard and Dijon clones 113, 114, 115, 667 and 777 come together for a Burgundian style ready-to-drink Pinot loaded with raspberries, pie cherries and blueberries. Accompanying acidity and earthy undertones make for broad food applications with juicy steaks and lighter fare.

Carabella Vineyard 2005 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains, 1,150 cases, $39

Excellent. Mike Hallock’s blend of clones Dijon

115, 114, 113, Wadenswil and Pommard off Parrett Mountain serves up an elegant and fruity Pinot. There’s cherry, raspberry, fresh-cut celery and light oak in the nose. Then comes a very smooth entry of cherries and raspberries with a hint of oak and a near absence of tannin.

Chehalem 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir Oregon, 570 cases, $60

Recommended. Owner/winemaker Harry

Peterson-Nedry relies exclusively on grapes from his estate Ridgecrest Vineyard on Ribbon Ridge. It opens with deep aromas of leather, coffee, minerally earth and dark fruit. On the palate are flavors of black cherries and black-

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

berries. It’s a wine with darker tones and a fair bit of oak still showing. This is a seriously good wine that still needs to stretch its legs. No doubt this will continue to evolve in the bottle.

WINE REVIEWS

Kramer Vineyards 2003 Pinot Noir Estate Yamhill-Carlton District, 350 cases, $18

Recommended. Vines nearly 20 years old and a

Dobbes Family Estate 2005 Grande Assemblage Cuvée Pinot Noir Oregon, 1,391 cases, $24

Excellent. The affordable Pinot Noir from wine-

maker Joe Dobbes takes in grapes from throughout the Willamette Valley. The result is a complex wine at a nice price. It opens with aromas of cherries, spicy chocolate, moist earth and even a hint of smoky bacon. On the palate are flavors of bing cherries, cranberries, black licorice, blackberries and dark chocolate. This is a big wine with full-bodied flavors and a lengthy finish.

Jovino 2006 Pinot Noir

wealth of oak produced a base coat of blackberries and heavy toast in this release that includes tart cherries and a finish of NECCO Sweethearts candy.

Maysara Winery 2005 Delara Pinot Noir McMinnville, 500 cases, $50

Outstanding! It’s the pride of Momtazi Vineyard and translates from Persian to mean “capture one’s heart.” Boysenberries, blueberries, Jolly Rancher strawberry candy and anise funnel into bright and fun flavors of raspberries and cranberries that drink as a nouveau style at the moment. It’s truly a captivating wine.

Maysara Winery

Oregon, 1,541 cases, $19

Excellent. Here is a new label for winemaker Joe

Dobbes. As he explains it, this will be available primarily to restaurants, which found the “Wine

by Joe” label too whimsical and the Dobbes Family Estate too high-end. Thus, he’s found the middle ground with Jovino. This fresh, young Pinot Noir opens with aromas of black cherries, black raspberries and a bit of sweet oak, followed by easy-drinking flavors of dark, delicious fruit that leads to a lingering finish.

2004 Delara Pinot Noir McMinnville, 500 cases, $50

Recommended. This hot vintage presented chal-

lenges for those preferring high-acid, foodfriendly wines. Here’s one via Pommard clones with impressive acidity and almost nonexistent tannins, backed by notes of deep cherries, blackberries, black licorice, vanilla and hint of coffee and a clean divot off a freshly mowed practice tee.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

99

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:14 PM

Page 100

recent releases

Maysara Winery

Pleasant Hill Winery

Wine by Joe

2005 Jamsheed Pinot Noir

2005 Courting Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

2006 Really Good Pinot Noir

McMinnville, 4,000 cases, $25

Oregon, 60 cases, $25

Oregon, 8,568 cases, $18

Excellent. A blending of each block of Momtazi

Vineyard produced inviting results and a sense of terroir, starting with its deep purple color, spicy aromas with sweet oak notes, pie cherries, blackberries and loganberries. There’s a deepening on the palate with more blackberries, blueberries, loganberries and a bit of sour cherry candy. Supple tannins continue on to a smooth finish and a dash of pepper in the end.

Outstanding! Larry Lindvig lives in Carnation, Wash., yet he imports Pinot Noir clone 115 fruit for an amazingly whole-cluster style of wine with bright fresh aromas and flavors of cherries and cranberries leading the way. It’s smooth enough for salmon but with plenty of structure for a sirloin.

Stangeland Vineyards & Winery

Maysara Winery

2005 Stand Sure Vineyard Pinot Noir

2004 Estate Cuveé Pinot Noir

Eola-Amity Hills, 245 cases, $25

McMinnville, 1,200 cases, $32

Excellent. Leo and Ervina Anderson’s site stands

Excellent. Todd Hamina crafted this wine before

at 800 elevation, and this Salem, Ore., winery first began making a vineyard designate bottling from it in 2001. Skill shows on both ends of this lively red, opening with aromas of cordial cherries, rose petals, cranberries, baking spice and black pepper. More cranberries await on the palate with sour cherry candy and lots of acidity mixed in. Green peppercorns appear in the finish.

recently leaving to launch his own label, and here’s an excellent advertisement. Expressions of pie cherries, saddle leather, brown sugar and a bit of barnyard lead into flavors full of cherries, blackberries, sweet herbs, baker’s chocolate and violets. Bright acidity and moderate tannins transcend into a farewell of more blackberries.

Outstanding! Looking to take the stuffiness out of your Oregon Pinot? This would do it, thanks to its cute little cartoon label and unpretentious pricing. On top of that, it’s darned tasty. This opens with aromas of bright cherries, white pepper, vanilla, olives and raspberris, followed by flavors of bright red fruit. Its bright acidity and racy tannins provide near-perfect balance for a wine made in a fresh style. Yeah, it’s really, really good.

Merlot Fidelitas Wines 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, $25

Excellent. Charlie Hoppes took fruit from such

top Columbia Valley vineyards as Stillwater Creek (42%), Conner-Lee (34%), Goose Ridge (12%), Weinbau (6%) and Birch Creek (6%) and brought it back to his new “shackteau” on Red Mountain. The results are spicy black

Eastside’s Finest Wine Shop Join our new wine club!

15% discount on single bottles; 20% off same wine cases + twice-yearly winemaker event invitations!

Only $40/year • OVER 3000 DIFFERENT WINES TO CHOOSE FROM • WINE GIFTS, ACCESSORIES & RIEDEL GLASSWARE • OPEN DAILY • COMPLIMENTARY TASTINGS EVERY FRIDAY & SATURDAY • FRIENDLY, KNOWLEDGEABLE AND ENTHUSIASTIC STAFF

FINE WINE & CIGARS At Redmond Town Center • 425-869-0869 • finewinesltd.com finewine2@finewinesltd.com

100

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

2:14 PM

Page 101

recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 ($18 Canadian) and under.

Covey Run Winery Columbia Valley, 27,500 cases, $9

medium-bodied flavors are rich with notes of dark plums, black cherries and chocolate. Assertive tannins back up the flavors and have us thinking about opening it with a grilled ribeye.

Recommended. It’s all 100% Cab Sauv and 80% of it went into French

Pavin & Riley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

oak for a year, and there’s a lot of expression with bright strawberries, raspberries, boysenberries, green peppercorns, fresh-cut hay, vanilla and cedar. The structure and the price make this an easy sell.

2005 Shiraz Columbia Valley, 2,000 cases, $10

Recommended. The name would suggest a fruity Aussie version of this

Covey Run Winery

Rhone grape, and this isn’t far off the mark. Blueberries, black raspberries, truffles and spicy cherries with tart blackberries make this a modest and easy everyday wine.

2005 Lemberger Columbia Valley, 2,400 cases, $8

Outstanding! The appellation could read “Horse Heaven Hills” with famed Destiny Ridge (58%) and Champoux (42%) making up this easy-to-like wine. It’s all about ripe strawberries and Bing cherries with vanilla, leather and violet notes. There’s complexity and balance with pleasing tannins, a chocolaty midpalate and smooth cherry pie farewell.

Indian Creek Winery 2005 Star Garnet Idaho, 300 cases, $14

Outstanding! Several vintners in Idaho thank Bill Stowe for helping show them the way, and here’s a remarkable example of his knowledge with this blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah and Petit Verdot from Woodriver and his own Stowe Vineyard. The result is a luscious and hedonistic offering of bright cherries, blackberries, plums and chocolate that’s virtually absent of tannin. Enjoy this now with a Mexican dish featuring molé sauce.

Northwest Cellars

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2004 Whistlestop Red Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, $10

Excellent. Joy Andersen’s widely distributed blend of Cab (70%) and

Merlot (30%) will blow your mind, starting with a nose of rosehips, persimmon, black cherries and chocolate malted milk balls. Inside it’s rich and juicy, highlighted by black cherries and chocolate. The result is a fairly big wine, but well done and should pair well with barbecued meats.

Sockeye Wines 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, $12

Recommended. New winemaker Hal Landvoigt used expressive oak to

bring out a rich and jammy drink of blackberries and chocolate that’s not overwhelmed by tannin and joined by enough acidity that barbecued salmon is a possibility.

2004 Merlot

Waving Tree Winery

Yakima Valley, 1,050 cases, $13

2005 Estate Syrah

Excellent. This Kirkland, Wash., operation makes wines with the idea

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $15

that you will want to order some with personalized labels. Additionally, it is making its products available through wine retailers with beautiful Northwest-centric scenes on its labels. This Merlot from Washington’s oldest wine-growing region is superb, thanks to aromas of black pepper, raspberries, moist earth, black cherries and black olives. The

Excellent. Terrence Atkins produces another approachable red from his

cherries, toasty oak and crushed leaf in the nose, matched by a rich black cherry entry that carries through in good character to a robust finish.

Zenas Wines 2005 Del Rio Vineyard Merlot Rogue Valley, 50 cases, $28

Excellent. This new winery in Carlton, Ore., shrewdly tapped into one of the state’s top sites for Bordeaux varieties. A breeze of blueberries, dried cherries, almonds, vanilla and crushed herbs turns into a rich mouthful of delicious ripe President plums, fresh-picked raspberries and black cherries. It’s medium bodied with taut tannins that should lend itself to duck confit or a filet mignon topped with Oregonzola.

Syrah

Goldendale, Wash., winery. Fascinating hints of rose petal, rhubarb, juniper, coffee and toasted oak lead into flavors of strawberry and rhubarb with French roast coffee. And smooth tannins make this a particularly easy drink.

the early 1970s, Sagemoor has been supplying grapes to Washington’s top wineries. This youthful Syrah from a Spokane, Wash., producer reveals aromas of blackberries, black tea, vanilla, dark chocolate and smoky oak. On the palate are complex layers of dark, bold fruit.

This is a full-bodied wine that will pair well with a steak topped with sautéed mushrooms.

Cathedral Ridge Winery

Seia Wine Cellars 2005 Alder Creek Vineyard Syrah

2005 Syrah

Horse Heaven Hills, 220 cases, $30

Columbia Valley, 230 cases, $38

Excellent. Rob Spalding expanded his vineyard-

Outstanding! Three Columbia Gorge sites —

designate Syrah program, and oak aficionados particularly enjoy his debut off this site. Textures match aromas of black cherries and cranberries, finished by vanilla spice and Good and Plenty candy.

Bangsund, Bailey and Kortge — get sorted into this celebration of brambleberries. Toasty and chocolaty notes join the raspberries and blackberries aromas lead into a full-bodied glass of more berries, dusted with cocoa powder and a mint leaf. There are plenty of tannins, but plenty of fruit in support.

Seia Wine Cellars 2005 Clifton Hill Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope, 92 cases, $30

Barrister Winery

Nefarious Cellars

2005 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah

2005 Syrah

Columbia Valley, 357 cases, $27

Horse Heaven Hills, 350 cases, $27

Recommended. Bacchus Vineyard is part of the

Excellent. The Neffs are off to a nice start at the

Sagemoor farm north of Pasco, Wash. Since

winery in Chelan and Dean, the red winemaker,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

tapped into Windy Ridge Vineyard for a berry bomb of delicious proportions. Blackberries, blueberries, pomegranate, licorice and a chisel of minerality aromas set the table for a mouthful of blackberry compote flavors that stretch to the end. A wealth of berry acidity, chocolate and licorice stretch out the finish.

Excellent. Rob Spalding bought Rhône grapes off

Clifton Hill for the third time, and this one’s a charm. Red fruit aromas are backed by cola, coffee and toasty oak. Flavors feature a tart cherry entry and raspberry jam notes from the

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

101

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:14 PM

recent releases

midpalate on back with modest tannins. Enjoy now with marinated flank steak.

Sequel Cellars 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,489 cases, $55

Recommended. Australian native John Duval of

Penfold’s Grange acclaim got to crisscross Eastern Washington for Syrah from the Horse Heaven Hills (Alder Ridge, Wallula Vineyards) and Red Mountain, then added a mere 4% of Cab Sauv from Sagemoor’s Dionysus Vineyard. There’s a lot of oak and earthiness in the nose, along with black cherries, bacon and Olympic Peninsula black truffles. Bing cherries and raspberry acidity splash around the palate with bold tannins on the entry and in the finish.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2004 Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,200 cases, $23

Recommended. One could call this a Rhône blend

because Joy Andersen includes Mourvédre (18%), and the note of bacon backs that up.

Adding to that are aromas of cherry fruit leather,

102

Page 102

bay leaf and saddle leather, a legacy of the 20 months in French and American oak. Dark red fruit flavors of currants, plums, pie cherries and pomegranates mingle with racy tannins and bright acidity, then spill into a finish of toasty oak and blueberries. Consider this a nice complement to a holiday spread featuring turkey or duck.

Cabernet Franc Barrister Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley, 850 cases, $25

Outstanding! Between our ratings over the years

and the medals this wine wins vintage after vintage, this Cab Franc should be one of the most sought-after reds in Washington. Already, this wine has earned a gold medal from the Northwest Wine Summit and a double gold and best of class from the Tri-Cities Wine Fest. We think it’s pretty good, too. It opens with suave aromas of walnuts, minerally earth, black plums and black pepper, followed by big, focused flavors of black raspberries, black currants and bittersweet chocolate. From the juicy

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

entry to the smooth, lengthy finish, this is a complete — and great — wine.

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, 1,644 cases, $33

Outstanding! This bottling is among the most

popular in the province each year, and this vintage is no exception. Cherries, vanilla, tobacco and dried basil aromas carry into bold cherry flavors with plums and black raspberries. Firm acidity, moderate tannins and a nice leanness present varied food applications, starting with alder-planked salmon. On the other hand, there’s a voluptuous side to this wine that makes this worthy of quiet contemplation.

Olympic Cellars Winery 2004 Alder Creek Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills, 155 cases, $23

Outstanding! Kathy Charlton owns what she calls “Washington’s Working Girl boutique winery.”

So here’s a Cab Franc that’s a chocolate lover’s dream, starting with aromas of raspberry-drizzled chocolate cake, slate, minerality,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

2:15 PM

Page 103

recent releases blackberries and toasted oak. It’s very rich, bold and provocative in the mouth, too. Blackberries, fudge and rich Belgian chocolate seem to hang on all night long.

Bitner Vineyards

Zenas Wines

as a bee both as a globe-trotting entomologist and longtime spokesman for the Idaho Wine Commission. Time is one reason he’s had his friend Greg Koenig make his wines. Talent is the other, shown in this easy-going blend of Merlot (67%) and Petit Verdot (33%). Palate matches aromas with Bing cherries and oak spice. Smooth tannins are reminiscent of Pinot Noir, and the Petit Verdot shows off pleasing spice in the finish.

2005 Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rogue Valley, 180 cases, $26

Excellent. Zenas Howard settled in Oregon’s

Applegate Valley in 1856. His descendants recently entered the wine business, and they are off to a showy start. This is 100% Cab Franc and it seems fully loaded with bright red fruit, particularly fresh raspberries and whole berry Oregon coast cranberry sauce. The addition of cherries, a pinch of cloves and thyme on the palate, with all that acidity, earns this a spot at the dinner table with a holiday turkey or game hen.

Red blends Airfield Estates 2005 Aviator Red Yakima Valley, 300 cases, $22

Outstanding! This new winery in Prosser, Wash., features a hangar-like building as a tribute to the pre-World War II air base that was sold to the Miller family and planted to grapes in the 1970s. The blend of Syrah (40%), Merlot (35%) and Cab Sauv comes across as a complete wine. Black fruit compote, cola, French vanilla bean, a drizzle of chocolate and spicy cherries only begin to describe the approach. Bold plums and cola on the entry are met in midpalate by tannins that are sturdy without being over the top. No doubt this screwcapped release, piloted by Marcus Miller, is taking off in the tasting room.

2004 Merlot-Petit Verdot Reserve Idaho, 70 cases, $16

Excellent. For years, Ron Bitner has been busy

Brian Carter Cellars 2004 Abracadabra Columbia Valley, 612 cases, $20

Outstanding! It’s titled “a magical red blend” and almost too good to be true. The potion of Syrah (42%), Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Merlot (18%) and Malbec — nearly all of it via Outlook Vineyards in the central Yakima Valley — comes laden with black cherries, black berries, smoky dark chocolate and Brier Rabbit molasses. There’s weight on the palate but remarkable acidity and a long cherry candy finish.

Brian Carter Cellars 2001 Solesce Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $58

Outstanding! Few in the Northwest are as

WINE REVIEWS

focused on blending and cellaring as Brian Carter, and this beautiful Bordeaux assemblage combines Cab Sauv (47%), Merlot (38%), Cab Franc (12%) and Malbec (3%). Berry bowl aromas include inviting oak spice and pipe tobacco, and there’s a rich delivery on the palate with blueberries, raspberries, blackberries and loganberries. A wealth of acidity and sweet tannins grabs you at the end, where there’s a sense of sweet pipe tobacco.

Brian Carter Cellars 2004 Tuttorosso Red Wine Yakima Valley, 294 cases, $30

Outstanding! It translates to “all red,” and this blend of Sangiovese (58%), Cab Sauv (34%) and Syrah (8%) is all-appealing. Notes of earth, oak, herbs and fresh-cut hay find favor among aromas of strawberries and cherries. There’s a bold entry of dark cherries and strawberries with an earthy midpalate, mild chocolate chip tannins and terrific acidity. It’s an excellent food wine that brings thoughts of beef stir fry or fajitas incorporating red bell peppers and onions.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2005 Rock Star Red Columbia Valley, 100 cases, $44

Outstanding! Bangsund Vineyard in The Dalles, Ore., gathers plenty of heat to produce all of this pleasing 50/50 split of Cab Sauv and Syrah. It’s a fruit bomb that’s layered with fresh plums, silky black cherries, tart pomegranates

Barnard Griffin Winery 2004 Vino Rosso Columbia Valley, 196 cases, $19

Outstanding! Consumers and critters both benefit from Rob Griffin’s blend of Barbera (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon as $1 from each bottle goes to the Humane Society in the Tri-Cities, Wash. A spicy nose includes black cherries, raspberries and vanilla, and there’s more of that Italian spice on the palate with black cherries and blueberries. It’s a big, mouth-filling wine with considerable tannins, but the fruit keeps it on a long leash. Available only at the winery.

Barrister Winery NV Rough Justice Columbia Valley, 480 cases, $19

Excellent. No doubt the owner/winemakers of this

Spokane operation — both attorneys — have seen some rough justice handed out through the years. This New World red blend won’t be too tough on you, however. It is made from Cab, Syrah, Merlot and Cab Franc from several top vineyards in the Columbia and Walla Walla valleys. It opens with aromas of black licorice, black cherries, molasses and French press coffee, followed by rich flavors of blackberries, black currants and dried cherries. The tempered tannins give way to a smooth, moderate finish.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

103

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:15 PM

Page 104

recent releases

and racy raspberry acidity. Since this marks the second straight year of garnering our top rating, it’s earning a reputation as one of the Northwest’s most attractive blends.

Chester-Kidder 2004 Red Wine Columbia Valley, 1,797 cases, $50

Excellent. Long Shadows overlord Allen Shoup

and conductor Gilles Nicault, his talented resident winemaker, annually collaborate on this bold blend of Cab Sauv (58%) and Syrah (29%) from the Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain, with Wahluke Slope sites contributing Cab Franc (Weinbau) and Petit Verdot (Stone Tree). Hines blend tobacco, blackberries and chocolate malt factor into the aromas. Spicy currants, more berries and malt flavors are cast into sizable frontal tannins and a wealth of acidity. Time should tame the tannins a bit or enjoy now with braised meat dishes such as osso buco or a rich lasagna.

Dakota Creek Winery 2005 Firefighter Red Columbia Valley, 144 cases, $17

his own labels. Family vineyards allowed him to a produce a lighter, approachable blend of Cab Sauv (64%) and Syrah featuring pie cherries, raspberries, chocolate and toast aromas from 18 months in oak. A variety of cherries drop on the palate, along with blueberries and raspberries with a decent bit of acidity and tug of tannin on the midpalate. Past that point, it turns easy drinking with sweet boysenberries and berry acidity that will pair nicely with pasta.

O•S Winery 2005 Klipsun Vineyard M Red Mountain, 325 cases, $32

Recommended. The M stands for Merlot (70%),

the rest is Cabernet Sauvignon. With it possessing the power of Klipsun, there are many miles ahead for this big delivery of sweetened Montmorency cherries, strawberry fruit leather, blackberries, oak and red peppercorns. The tannins have some grip, but the bright acidity and finish of cranberries bode well for the future.

Pleasant Hill Winery

Recommended. This small producer near the border town of Blaine, Wash., uses grapes from vineyards throughout Eastern Washington. This blend of Merlot, Cab and Syrah honors firefighters in north Whatcom County, and a portion of the proceeds goes to the firefighters association. It’s a delicious little wine with aromas of licorice, plums, blackberries and sweet herbs, followed by bold flavors of blackberries, marionberries and cherries. Moderate tannins give it youthful approachability.

2004 Carnation Red

Farm Boy Wines

Pleasant Hill Winery

2005 Red Table Wine

2004 Il Fascino Rosso

Yakima Valley, 220 cases, $18

Columbia Valley, 70 cases, $22

Outstanding! Robert Smasne long has consulted

Excellent. Boeing Wine Club grad Larry Lindvig

around the state and now is devoting time to

produces a very berry “Red Fascination” from

Oregon-Washington, 90 cases, $16

Excellent. Maréchal Foch, a French hybrid, isn’t

the easiest wine to market, which may explain the proprietary name for this particular blend of Foch from Meridian Estate Vineyard in Silverton, Ore., with Syrah (25%) off Gilbert Vineyards on Washington’s Wahluke Slope.

Descriptors included a nice hint of oak, smooth cherries, cola, violets, a bit of earthiness and racy acidity. Remarkable is the absence both of tannin or foxiness.

Syrah (44%) and Petit Verdot (23%) from the Wahluke Slope’s Gilbert Vineyard, Grenache (25%) from Snipes Canyon in Prosser and a dose of Cab Sauv (8%) via the cooler Elephant Mountain near Yakima. Brownies coated with raspberry syrup is the lasting image from this full-bodied and plush offering.

Pleasant Hill Winery 2005 Lemberger-Syrah Columbia Valley, 75 cases, $16

Excellent. Lemberger (75%) from Prosser’s

Carter Vineyards meshes nicely with Syrah from Gilbert Vineyards on the hot Wahluke Slope, and they elicit notes of raspberries, blackberries, currants and anise. Hershey’s chocolate tannins and lots of acidity should make this a fine candidate for a slab of beef.

Saggi Cellars 2005 Red Wine Columbia Valley, 796 cases, $45

Excellent. The Italian project within Long

Shadows Vintners showcases Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari for this Super Tuscan blend led by Alder Ridge Vineyard Sangiovese (45%), then Cab Sauv (35%) and Syrah (20%). French oak influence of 16 months shows nicely just behind raspberry aromas. The entry is a smooth one of blueberries and juicy black cherries, framed by medium tannins that grip but don’t overwhelm the pomegranate and chocolate finish. There’s plenty of acidity to show this wine is built for the long haul.

Wedge Mountain Winery and Vineyard 2005 Trois Chevaux Rouges Columbia Valley, 100 cases, $20

Recommended. Charlie McKee was stationed in

Italy as a Marine some 50 years ago, yet he knows how to make a Bordeaux blend. He lined up Merlot (64%), Cab Sauv (24%) and Cab Franc for a tremendously food-friendly lightly oaked red in an Old World style with raspber-

Experience the Northwest’s Best Wine Store • Over 4,000 wines • Discount prices • Free local delivery • We ship UPS • Call for free mailer • Private wine lockers • Secured access • Climate controlled • Convenient location

2700 Fourth Avenue South Seattle, WA (206) 682-7374 • (888) 682-WINE www.esquin.com

104

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/4/07

3:00 PM

Page 105

recent releases ries, cherries, green peppercorns and black olives. Its hallmark is great acidity, so reach for some tomato-based Italian dish.

Pheasant Valley Winery

Woodinville Wine Cellars

Excellent. Much of the Northwest’s best Zin

2004 Ausonius

comes from either side of the Columbia River separating Oregon and Washington. This Hood River winery goes upstream and across the river to the Gunkle site near Maryhill, Wash. Fresh strawberries, black cherries and a hint of earthy truffles set the table for an explosion of red currants, Rainier cherries and cranberries, backed by dark Swiss chocolate. Wonderful acidity, reduced tannin and moderate alcohol make this a great seafood wine.

Columbia Valley, 293 cases, $35

Outstanding! Named for a 4th century Roman philosopher who wrote in Latin and owned a vineyard in Bordeaux, this is a blend of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec from Conner Lee and Stillwater Creek vineyards. It’s a superb blend with aromas of plum sauce, black licorice and sweet herbs, followed by full-bodied flavors of dark berries. There’s plenty of structure, thanks to ample acidity and rich tannins. Thus, you have a choice of cellaring it for three or four years or popping the cork with a marbled steak.

Other reds

2006 Zinfandel Columbia Valley, 216 cases, $22

2005 Malbec Columbia Valley, 190 cases, $35

Excellent. Bold and black notes permeate the

many edges of this blend of Conner-Lee (75%) and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Blackberries, blueberries, a hit of blackstrap molasses, black pepper and some minerality filter out from the glass. Smooth flavors of black cherries and blueberries are met by a bold tannin structure on the finish that gives it some bite with pleasing acidity. Enjoy with a ribeye.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

continues to shine with a Bordeaux variety that is gaining traction with Washington winemakers and consumers. This is a superb, hedonistic red with aromas of blackberries, plums, mocha, black olives and blueberries.

On the palate are big, bold, dark flavors of chocolate-covered cherries. Supple tannins made this wine even more hedonistic. We can imagine enjoying this with barbecued ribs.

White wines Chardonnay Balsamroot Winery

Pleasant Hill Winery

2006 Unoaked Chardonnay

2005 Les Collines Vineyard Zinfandel

Columbia Valley, 140 cases, $18

Walla Walla Valley, 70 cases, $20

Recommended. This new winery in Chelan,

Excellent. Western Washington winemaker Larry

Fidelitas Wines

WINE REVIEWS

Lindvig shows off the work of Walla Walla vineyard manager Shane McKibben. Very ripe black cherries, dark blackberries and spice scream into a sweet molasses midpalate and chocolate torte finish. Anyone can check the weather readings at this young vineyard via lescollines.com.

Wash., uses estate fruit off the north shore of the lake, and the focus is on that fruit.

Pineapple juice, melon and a tickle of Sprite in the nose drip into a medley of citrus and tropical flavors. A big burst of acidity arrives just before a finish of end-of-the-season apples, saffron and more pineapples. We could see pairing this with a shrimp salad.

Tildio Winery

Carabella Vineyard

2005 Malbec

2005 Dijon 76 Clone Chardonnay

Columbia Valley, 146 cases, $25

Willamette Valley, 365 cases, $28

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Katy Perry

Recommended. Use of classic Dijon clones is

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

105

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:16 PM

Page 106

recent releases

prompting Oregon’s deepening embrace of Chardonnay influenced by French oak. This example showcases notes of sandalwood, clarified butter, caramel, bubble gum and a medley of tart apples and a bit of coconut in the finish.

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 303 cases, $17

Excellent. Fruit, fruit and more fruit. This wine out

of Hood River, Ore., hints at starfruit, dried pineapple, lemon chiffon and orchard fruit. Next arriving is a rich palate of tropical fruits, pears and creamy vanilla with a good crisp finish to pair with halibut or cod.

E.B. Foote Winery 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 175 cases, $12

Recommended. Sherrill Miller ushered Milbrandt

Vineyards fruit into French barrels and the results are pleasing from her Burien, Wash., winery. Orchard fruit and oak lead the way with hints of pear, apple, toast and butter throughout. Pineapple and creamy notes of apple butter show up in the finish, and there’s ample acidity for balance.

Kramer Vineyards 2004 Dijon Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 224 cases, $15

Outstanding! Barrel-fermented and barrel-aged

Recommended. This wine honors the memory of Ian Peterson-Nedry, son of winery owner Harry Peterson-Nedry, who died in 1996 at age 19.

This is crafted in the style of white Burgundy, with aromas of casaba melons, minerals, toffee and citrus and flavors of apples, pears and tangerines. This is a big, fruit-driven white with a round mouth feel.

Chardonnay fits in with the style that much of the north Willamette Valley wants to focus on, and this is a very tasty example because there’s a lot of fruit, too. Butterscotch and vanilla aromas, along with a pinch of moist earth, are followed by pineapple and papaya notes. There’s more expressive tropical fruit in the flavors, while sweet pink grapefruit and peaches lead the way.

Fresh-cut apples and facial powder arrive in the finish. Great acidity makes this more than a cocktail Chardonnay, so think about it with fresh Dungeness crab dipped in warm butter.

Chehalem

Olympic Cellars Winery

2006 INOX Chardonnay

2005 Dionysus Vineyard Barrel Select Chardonnay

Chehalem 2004 Ian’s Reserve Chardonnay Oregon, 384 cases, $32

Willamette Valley, 2,626 cases, $19

Recommended. It’s not an acronym, but rather

Columbia Valley, 155 cases, $12

an abbreviation of inoxidable — the French term for stainless steel. Grapes from Stoller, Temperance Hill, Bethel Heights, Corral Creek and Ridgecrest come together for a fruit-forward Chardonnay focused on Bosc pears, Fuji apples and candied ginger with citrusy acidity to cleanse the palate well for food.

Recommended. The label tells of the oak, and

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Pheasant Valley Winery

2005 Cold Creek Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 3,600 cases, $25

Recommended. The big influence of 70% new

French oak shows immediately that this was made in a reserve style, with dried pineapple and bananas arriving in the nose. It’s not as oak-driven on the palate with flavors of fresh pineapple and pleasing Navel orange acidity.

Nine months of sur lie aging round this out for a suggested pairing with seafood risotto.

there’s no denying its influence here. It starts on the aromas, which include hints of nice spice, citrus and Graber olives. Fresh-cut pineapple is featured in the flavors and there’s ample acidity to back up the charry oak, which still allows a Golden Delicious apple to fall into the finish.

2006 Chardonnay Columbia Gorge, 300 cases, $20

Outstanding! This Hood River, Ore., winery has been producing superb wines since opening its doors three years ago. This Chardonnay is one of the best we’ve tasted in a while, thanks to grape sources that include Celilo, McDuffee and Larsen vineyards. This opens with aromas of sweet herbs, orchard fruits, lemon zest and minerals, followed by bright, zippy flavors of lemons and pineapples. It’s a rich, smooth white with a rounded midpalate.

Tildio Winery 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 146 cases, $20

Outstanding! Katy Perry, former winemaker for Ste. Michelle and Tsillan, launched this boutique operation in the Lake Chelan area. The wines so far have been nothing short of superb.

She and her husband, Milum, have been planting vines on their eight-acre estate. This Chardonnay is a fantastic example of her handiwork. It opens with aromas of lemon, fresh apples and pineapple cake, followed by zesty flavors of bright citrus. Zippy acidity provides brightness and gives this white wine foodfriendliness for a wide range of dishes.

Willow Crest Winery 2006 Sunflower Series Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 250 cases, $30

Excellent. Longtime vintner David Minick pays tribute to a friend with this series by donating half the price of each bottle to the Sarcoma Foundation of America, making this extra special. Tangerines, honey, clover and nice Hungarian oak aromas spill across the palate with flavors of pineapple and maple syrup over peaches. The midpalate features a remarkable toasty butteriness, then crisp lemon acidity from Sauvignon Blanc (14%) finishes it off.

Riesling Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Eroica Columbia Valley, 27,000 cases, $22

Outstanding! Of the eight vintages in this Riesling’s

history, this is likely the best of Bob Bertheau’s four years with Ernst Loosen. You get the sense of walking past Bruce’s Candy Kitchen in Cannon Beach, Ore., as they make saltwater taffy and praline pecans, but there’s heaping amounts of orchard fruit with steely minerality.

And those are just the aromas. Think of apple crisp made with Golden Delicious, followed by a long citrus finish, giving this very appealing wine wonderful balance. Residual sugar of 1.5% makes this a nice accompaniment to Asian food, crabcakes or ahi tuna nachos.

Chehalem

Pleasant Hill Winery

2006 Reserve Dry Riesling

2006 K.B. Walker Vineyards Chardonnay

Willamette Valley, 781 cases, $21

Columbia Valley, 60 cases, $15

Recommended. Harry Peterson-Nedry blended

Recommended. As the story goes, this site near

grapes from two vineyards, Corral Creek and Stoller, to produce this steely Riesling from western Oregon. It shows off aromas of minerals, baked pears and cloves, followed by flavors of limes, apples and tropical fruits. The bright acidity shines from first sip through the ample finish, making us think about Asian or Tex-Mex dishes to pair with it.

Othello, Wash., began more than 20 years ago with the help of the late Walter Clore. Granny Smith apples and canned pineapples go into this wine, which hints at oak but went through stainless steel and no malolactic.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Naked Chardonnay

106

offering off the Horse Heaven Hills features a level of acidity rarely seen in Chardonnay. The nose includes a wisp of Heath Bar toffee, and the fascinating complexity focuses on ripe pear that gets carried through to the finish.

Columbia Valley, 4,500 cases, $12

Elk Cove Vineyards

Excellent. Envision sticking your nose into a

2006 Riesling

fresh-cut apple, and that’s the start of this quite quaffable drink without any real edges to it. This

Outstanding! Hand-harvest family fruit gave Adam

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Willamette Valley, 1,040 cases, $19

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

2:17 PM

Page 107

recent releases Godlee Campbell the tools to produce a particularly expressive Riesling. Fresh apple, dates, figs and casaba melon aromas are met by a tart entry of apples and yellow grapefruit, lime and tangelos. There’s a bit of sweetness (less than 1% residual sugar), but a nice edge of acidity, then a remarkable sense of savory or umami in the finish.

Namasté Vineyards 2006 Tranquility Vineyard Dry Riesling Willamette Valley, 266 cases, $15

Excellent. The cooling effect of the Van Duzer

Corridor near McMinnville, Ore., shows in this refreshing and complex Riesling that leans more off-dry than dry. Aromas of lime, marshmallow, fruit salad and petrol are reinforced on the palate with a big blast of lime acidity, followed by apple and river rock.

Nefarious Cellars 2006 Stone’s Throw Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley, 120 cases, $18

Recommended. The first estate vineyard to enter

production for this young Wenatchee Valley winery comes through with an off-dry Riesling loaded of autumn orchard fruit, featuring golden plums and caramel apples, that’s quite fascinating for its savory and sweet (2.3% residual sugar) finish. Pair this with shellfish or baked chicken.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Poet’s Leap 2006 Riesling Columbia Valley, 1,879 cases, $20

Excellent. Armin Diel of Germany’s famed Schlossgut Diel checks back in with what currently is the only white wine in the Long Shadows group. The historic Dionysus Vineyard north of Pasco, Wash., is the largest single factor (29%) in this release. A keen nose can detect the oak spice — 3% was fermented in French casks — but the dusty apple and pear aromas are much more obvious. A drink is akin to a bite of a fully ripened fresh Bartlett pear and the late lingering acidity can be likened to a Granny Smith apple.

WINE REVIEWS

rating for a second straight year for his work with Clark Ziegler Vineyards, and the percent of estate fruit (10%) continues to increase. One suspects the 6% Chardonnay accounts for some of the butter rum Life Savers, toasted marshmallow, straw, candy corn and fig aromas. It shines in the mouth with a salivating entry of acidity, Golden Delicious apples fresh off the tree and some grassy herbal tones for complexity. Unlike the previous vintage, there’s no hint of residual sugar, so try this with halibut served with a mango chutney or glazed ham.

Carabella Vineyards 2006 Pinot Gris Chehalem Mountains, 1,750 cases, $16

Viento Wines

Recommended. This Wilsonville, Ore., winery con-

2006 Columbia Gorge Vineyard Riesling

tinues to show well with its dedication to Burgundian varieties, and there are some French oak undertones. Inviting couscous, filberts, caramel and cotton candy aromas are met by flavors of Honeycrisp apples, toasted pine nuts and enjoyable roundness.

Columbia Gorge, 345 cases, $12

Recommended. Think of a basket full of apples

and pears and you’ll get the picture of this production, which marked the 25th vintage for these vines. A nice sweet orchard fruit entry with zingy lemon/lime flavors makes this a crowd pleaser.

Chehalem 2006 Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris

Willamette Valley, 2,790 cases, $19

Recommended. Generally speaking, the grapes

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2006 Pinot Gris Columbia Gorge, 680 cases, $18

Outstanding! Michael Sebastiani receives our top

for this wine are the same as those for Chehalem’s reserve-level Pinot Gris. What differs are winemaking styles. This is made in more of an Alsatian style with bright mineral

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

107

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:18 PM

Page 108

recent releases

and fruit notes, and it is released sooner than the reserve. This particular wine reveals aromas of sweet herbs, pumpkin pie spice and a hint of caramel, followed by bright fruity flavors of apples, oranges and a hint of lemon-lime in the finish. A perfect wine to pair with chicken, pork or even mild Asian dishes.

Chehalem 2006 Reserve Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 721 cases, $24

Excellent. Owner/winemaker Harry Peterson-

Nedry championed the Chehalem Mountain appellation, which finally got approval this year, and he is a tireless promoter of Oregon wines.

This reserve-level Gris uses fruit from three vineyards, including Ridgecrest (Ribbon Ridge AVA), Stoller (Dundee Hills) and Corral Creek (Chehalem Mountain). It opens with round aromas of apples, melons, pears and apricots, then gives way to flavors of ripe orchard fruits and some toffee and caramel notes from barrel aging. It is delicious from the smooth entry through the lingering finish. We’d like to try it with seared ahi with a simple lemon and butter sauce.

Dobbes Family Estate 2006 Pinot Gris V Willamette Valley, 505 cases, $18

Outstanding! Joe Dobbes continues to put his

focus on the fruit, and a Pinot Gris more captivating than this will be difficult to find. The theme is citrus, all the way from lime zest to blood oranges dusted with cardamom, but some freshly sliced apples show up, too. It’s an endearing combination of dryness and fresh citrus that should pair especially well with grilled halibut.

Illusion 2006 Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 60 cases, $11

Recommended. This young winery in Black

Diamond near Seattle is building a new facility in the Columbia Gorge town of Lyle. It produces a variety of wines from the Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley and Yakima Valley, where this crisp white originated. This Pinot Gris opens with aromas of sweet herbs and candy-coated almonds, followed by flavors of green apples and orange sherbet. Pair with shellfish or pasta in a mild white sauce.

King Estate 2006 Signature Collection Pinot Gris Oregon, 76,000 cases, $16

Recommended. If you don’t think King Estate doesn’t carry the message of Oregon Pinot Gris to the masses, then just look at the production level of this wine. Nobody makes more Gris than this Lorane, Ore., producer.

About one-third of the grapes came from estate vineyards, while the rest were from growers throughout the Willamette Valley. It opens with aromas of minerals, watermelons, basil and even a hint of fresh strawberries. On the palate are flavors of honeydew melons and ripe melons. The rounded mouth feel comes from five months of aging on the lees, which provides a certain richness through the finish.

Left Coast Cellars 2005 Estate Grown Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 900 cases, $18

Recommended. This new winery near Newberg,

Ore., already controls some of its vineyard sources, and it shows with this Pinot Gris.

Notes of Lemonhead candy and Juicy Fruit gum, joined by lime and jalapeño, are mirrored on the palate. Those factors, including some acidity and a touch of bitterness in the finish, should reward those serving lightly seasoned halibut or sole with dill and lime.

Maysara Winery 2006 Pinot Gris

peaches, apricots, cotton candy, Golden Delicious apples and citrus fruit. A quaffable entry of pears and pineapple leads the flavors, followed by balanced acidity, some quince paste and food-friendly tartness in the finish.

Montinore Estate 2006 Entre Deux Vineyard Estate Reserve Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 1,206 cases, $18

Recommended. This north Willamette Valley pro-

ducer relies on grapes from an estate vineyard for this reserve-level Pinot Gris. It shows off aromas and flavors of apples, pears, minerals and sweet spices. Pair this with grilled chicken or pasta tossed with vegetables and drizzled with olive oil.

Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. 2006 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 1,200 cases, $15

Recommended. Winemaker John Jarboe crafts

Territorial’s wines in a 12,000-square-foot former coffee warehouse in Eugene, Ore. This Pinot Gris blends grapes from four Willamette Valley vineyards and shows off aromas and flavors primarily on the citrus side, with oranges and limes, along with a whisper of creamy caramel. Modest acidity makes this an easydrinking white to enjoy with a cheese plate or with appetizers.

Vercingetorix 2006 Pinot Gris Oregon, 204 cases, $18

Willamette Valley, 2,000 cases, $20

Recommended. A spicy and tart Pinot Gris makes

for a delicious dining companion, and such is the case from this McMinnville, Ore., winery, which used 100% sustainably farmed fruit.

Savory spices, grassiness and dusty apple meet up with some sweetness in the midpalate, then tart pear in the finish. Enjoy with linguine tossed with grilled vegetables, Caribbean chicken or a Caesar salad.

Montinore Estate 2006 Pinot Gris

Recommended. No, we don’t know how to pro-

nounce the name of this winery, either, so we’ll call it “VX” like everyone else does. The name, apparently, is in honor of a Celtic man who battled Caesar in France around 50 B.C. and used a “scorched earth” method during his fights, sparing only Burgundian vineyards. This wine opens with aromas of oranges and a hint of vanilla, followed by flavors of lush, sweet apples, oranges and a hint of grapefruit. A touch of residual sugar rounds the edges. Enjoy this with raw or baked oysters or Thai cuisine.

Willamette Valley, 7,884 cases, $13

Vin du Lac of Chelan

Excellent. Few folks in the Northwest consistently

2006 Lehm Michaela’s Vineyard Pinot Gris

excel across the board with whites to the extent that this operation in Forest Grove., Ore., does.

There is a hint of sweetness in the nose with

Recommended. Larry Lemhbecker’s “Lehm” label,

Chelan County, 100 cases, $20

in this instance, features the vineyard near their

Climate Controlled Self-Storage rentals with 24-7 access.

Dometic “Silent Cellar” wine cabinets for home storage.

Unique Wine Accessories and Necessities.

Steel Racks, Wood Bins, WineSafe Luggage & Lead-Free Crystal.

306 SE ASH ST. & MLK

503/231-1121 WWW.PORTLANDWINE.COM

108

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

2:19 PM

Page 109

recent releases Lake Chelan winery that’s named for partner Michaela Markusson. Lime, petrol, dusty sweet herbs and bubble gum notes are joined by melons and a food-friendly citrus pith finish.

WillaKenzie Estate 2006 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 4,830 cases, $18

Recommended. Estate fruit from the Yahmill-

Carlton District and a record yield produced a smooth yet bright Pinot Gris that’s guarded by screwcap. An inviting nose of vanilla, toast and apricots leads into a drink of pears and Granny Smith apples, shinning acidity and a lingering finish of lemons and lime.

er Katy Perry, and she’s done a great job of capturing the essense of this fickle grape while retaining all-important balance. This wine opens with aromas of sweet spices, jasmine flowers, minerals and fresh-squeezed orange juice. On the palate is an explosion of fruit flavors, including oranges, apples, papayas and pineapples. It has good weight, solid acidity and a round mouth feel. It is made from estate grapes grown near Lake Chelan. We think it would pair with lighter dishes, such as grilled chicken or pasta

WINE REVIEWS

tossed with grilled vegetables and olive oil.

Gewürztraminer Balsamroot Winery 2006 Antoine Creek Vineyard Dry Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 80 cases, $15

Recommended. This site near Pateros, Wash., sits

on the banks of the Columbia River near some basalt columns. It helped new Chelan winemak-

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 21,000 cases, $15

Excellent. A fascinating nose of tangerine, orange

blossoms, cotton candy and jasmine lead into flavors of more tangerines. Red Delicious apples and melon on the midpalate are swarmed by a flash of citrus acidity and tart starfruit on the finish. Enjoy with salmon, other gifts of the sea, picnic salads or a cheese plate.

Wine By Joe 2006 Really Good Pinot Gris Oregon, 3,000 cases, $13

Excellent. Whimsical, yes, but we agree with the winery’s description of this lively Pinot Gris that’s under screwcap. Fresh pear and apple aromas are joined by a dusting of facial powder. What commands your attention is the great citrus entry in the mouth, featuring lemon and cooked apples. Exploding acidity carries on through to the finish. You’re not done there, because 90 cents per case of Wine By Joe goes to American Foundation for Suicide Prevention.

Viognier Gamache Vintners 2006 Velida Estate Viognier Columbia Valley, 300 cases, $18

Recommended. The name of this barrel-fermented

release by these longtime growers is a tribute to mother and grandmother, and there are hints of a skilled baker in this. Aromas of stone fruit, butter rum, caramel, lemon peel and banana Laffy Taffy lead into flavors of more baked fruit and a fascinating biscuit fresh from the oven with butter and honey. There’s even a sense of savory spice in the warm finish.

Parma Ridge Vineyards 2006 Soft Viognier Snake River Valey, 48 cases, $13

Recommended. Former airline pilot Dick Dickstein

decided to make his home in southern Idaho and plant a vineyard on a former apple orchard overlooking the Boise River. He grows everything from Viognier to Zinfandel on his 9.5-acre property. This luscious Viognier shows off aromas of brown sugar, white pepper, ripe oranges and minerals, followed by flavors of sweet lemons and oranges.

Tildio Winery 2006 Viognier Columbia Valley, 24 cases, $20

Excellent. This is a new wine for owner/winemakW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

109

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:20 PM

recent releases

er Judy Phelps to produce an easy-drinking wine with inviting lychee, orchard blossom and orchard fruit aromas, joined by apple and lemonade flavors.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2005 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, 2,237 cases, $15 CDN

Outstanding! California expatriate Sandra Oldfield makes one of Canada’s top-selling whites and this is still worth searching for — thanks in part to the protection provided by a screwcap. Very floral is the entry with Juicy Fruit gum, rosewater, grassiness and a lime edge. What awaits are slightly off-dry flavors with enjoyable gooseberry, apple pie, cinnamon spice and impressive acidity that will pair nicely with seared scallops, ahi tuna tartare or Chicken Biryani.

Upland Estates 2006 Gewürztraminer Yakima Valley, 137 cases, $14

Excellent. Within a year after Prohibition ended in

late 1933, a man named William B. Bridgman opened one of the most important wineries in Washington history, Upland Winery. His opera-

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation (PS Form 3526) 1. Publication Title: Wine Press Northwest.

3. Filing Date: 10/1/07. 4. Issue Frequency: Quarterly. 5.

Number of Issues Published Annually: 4. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $10. 7./8. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 333 W. Canal Dr., Kennewick, WA 99336. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Address of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Rufus M. Friday, Andy Perdue, Eric Degerman, 333 W. Canal Dr., Kennewick, WA 99336. 10. Owner: The McClatchy Company, a Delaware Corporation, 2100 Q. Street, Sacramento, CA 95816. Stockholders of record holding 1% or more of the total amount of stock of The McClatchy Company are: The Estate of James B. McClatchy, William Ellery McClatchy, William K. Coblentz and Gary B. Pruitt, as trustees of the trust for the benefit of Charles K. McClatchy, trust for the benefit of James B. McClatchy, trust for the benefit of William Ellery McClatchy and trust for the benefit of Sue M. Stiles; Estate of James B. McClatchy; Molly Maloney Evangelisti; Betty Lou Maloney Trust; Brown McClatchy Maloney; Kevin Sorenson McClatchy; and Adair Rideout McClatchy (all c/o The McClatchy Company, P.O. Box 1579, Sacramento, CA 95852-0779); Fred Eychaner, 1645 W. Fullerton Avenue, Chicago, IL 60614-1919; and Cede & Co., c/o The Depository Trust Company, P.O. Box 20, Bowling Green Station, New York, NY 10004-9998. 11. Cede & Co., c/o The Depository Trust Co., P.O. Box 20 Bowling Green Station, New York, NY 10004-9998 12: Tax Status: Has not changed during the preceding 12 months. 13. Publication Title: Wine Press Northwest. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 9/4/06. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Average No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies: 12,329/12,000. b. Paid and/or Requested Circulation. (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscription Stated on Form 3541: 2,087/2,483. (2) Paid In-County Subscription: 218/258. (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Non-USPS Paid Distribution: 2,256/2,648. (4) Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS: 31/39. c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 4,592/5,428. d. Free Distribution by Mail. (1) Outside-County as Stated on Form 3541: 1,725/1,972. (2) In-County as Stated on Form 3541: 124/131. (3) Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS: 192/179. e. Free Distribution Outside the Mail: 1,047/1,040. f. Total Free Distribution: 3,088/3,322. g. Total Distribution: 7,680/8,750. Copies not Distributed: 4,649/3,250. i. Total: 12,329/12,000. j. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 59.8%/62.0%.

110

Page 110

tion was in the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside, and it stayed open until 1972.

Bridgman was one of the first in Washington to champion European wine grapes being planted in the Yakima Valley. Now, this new winery with a similar name has opened in nearby Prosser, and it’s started with this German variety. This first release opens with aromas of honey drizzled on baked apples and sprinkled with cinnamon. Flavors of grapefruits and cloves meld with slight sweetness and hints of minerals. We suspect Bill Bridgman would approve, too.

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Fidelitas Wines 2006 Semillon Columbia Valley, 504 cases, $20

Excellent. Charlie Hoppes is big on blending, so

he sources from throughout the Columbia Valley, and the first whiff of this is reminiscent of pineapple upside-down cake as well as freshcut apples and wintergreen. There’s more pleasing pineapple on the palate joined by apple, crisp pear and dried apricots. Refreshing mouth-watering acidity allows a hint of vanilla to peek out from the background.

Columbia Crest Winery 2006 Grand Estates Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 12,500 cases, $11

Outstanding! No wonder celebrity chef Bobby Flay signed up with these folks. Lead white winemaker Keith Kenison created an amazing array of entry points, starting with enticing aromas of Meyer lemon, lime, grapefruit, marshmallow and pear. The very pleasant mouth feel features more of that citrus and orchard fruit, focusing in fresh Bartlett pears. It’s a marvelous melding of flavors, complexity, balance and finish.

Woodinville Wine Cellars 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 600 cases, $18

Outstanding! They took the rich tropical and

pear features from Artz Vineyard on Red Mountain (56%) and melded them with the orangy acidity from Stillwater Creek Vineyard for an appealing drink. Mango, papaya and guava flavors are firmed up with a surprising level of acidity. Suggested pairings for this voluptuous Sauv Blanc include lobster, crab and grilled chicken.

Other whites Farm Boy Wines 2006 Black Muscat Yakima Valley, 235 cases, $12

Outstanding! The Norman Rockwell-esque label of a child and his Lab puppy depict future winemaker Robert Smasne and Betsy watching the family work their Yakima Valley homestead. The wine’s appearance is more white than most Black Muscat offerings, and there’s a complexity that many lack. Honeysuckle, gooseberry, apples, peaches, rosewater and minerality filter through the nose. The entry is sweet (2.3% residual sugar) and pleasant with strawberries, black cherry candy, apples, pears and tangerines. A twinge of bitterness in the finish adds to the balance of this Upland Vineyard wine.

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

Apolloni Vineyards 2006 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley, 490 cases, $14

Excellent. Alfredo Apolloni takes a vibrant and

Italian direction toward releases at his young winery in Forest Grove, Ore. There are pleasing minerality, river stone and fresh bread aromas, followed by a mouthful of lemon/lime zestiness, fresh pears and nice spark in the finish to pair well with Thai food.

Elk Cove Vineyards 2006 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley, 1,040 cases, $19

Excellent. The Campbells went beyond their

Estate and Mount Richmond sites to include fruit from prized Meredith Mitchell Vineyard in McMinnville and Tukwila Vineyard near Dundee. Apple, orchard blossom and orange notes in the aromas transcend to racy flavors of pineapple, grapefruit and a twist of lemon. That citrusy acidity lends this to fresh crab, shrimp cocktail or traditional Caesar salad with anchovies.

Wine By Joe 2006 Really Good Pinot Blanc Oregon, 1,000 cases, $12

Recommended. Joe Dobbes is indeed a good Joe,

and this release is quite friendly, starting with the easy-to-use screwcap. It’s filled with apricots, peaches, pears, pineapple and grapefruit from front to back. Additional notes of coriander and cardamom spice combine with grapefruit pith in the finish and present a wine with lots of food possibilities.

Icicle Ridge Winery 2006 Muscat Blanc Washington, 250 cases, $25

Excellent. Leavenworth, Wash., winemaker Don Wood particularly shines with sweet wines, and he has reason to be rather proud of this Muscat. Aromatics include rosewater, lychee, cloves, cane sugar, lilacs and apples. It’s a drink of sweet peaches and apricots with more rosewater and cane sugar undertones, then just enough grapefruity acidity to add balance.

White blends Fidelitas Wines 2006 m100 White Wine Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, $18

Recommended. The m100 stands for Charlie Hoppes’ Grandma Mary, who died at age 100.

Enjoy this secret blend of Semillon, Viognier and Roussanne in good health alongside linguine and clam sauce because it’s full of citrusy acidity along the lines of Meyers lemon, joined by hints of juniper and apples with the peel. The grapes come from Gamache, Stillwater Creek, Rosebud and Evergreen vineyards.

Smasne Cellars 2006 Bunk House White Yakima Valley, 82 cases, $25

Outstanding! Robert Smasne nearly could label this blend as Viognier (73%), but there’s Chardonnay filling out the rest. He came up with a fascinating equation and almost two difW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

2:21 PM

Page 111

recent releases ferent wines. Intriguing floral notes include bright lime, facial powder, rosemary and a bit of oak. Get inside and it’s buttery, round and rich before turning full of tongue-tingling orange, tangerine and “limon.” It’s quaffable on its own, but there’s also that food-friendly finish.

syrup, chocolate, maple and coconut. The alcohol (19%) is well-integrated and dangerously hidden behind fruit and residual sugar (10%).

Dessert wines Airfield Estates

Vin du Lac

2006 Riesling Ice Wine

2005 Les Amis Columbia Valley, 300 cases, $15

Recommended. Here’s a friendly blend of Riesling

(67%) with Muscat (33%) using fruit from Upland in Sunnyside, Antoine Creek in Pateros as well as estate. Floral, citrus and buttery sur lie aging notes come out in the aromatics, following by rosewater, brisk grapefruit and lime flavors that carry ample acidity to balance the residual sugar of 1.3%.

Port-style

Yakima Valley, 474 cases, $28

Outstanding! This family of Yakima Valley growers near Prosser has been harvesting grapes for 40 years, so it knew what to do when the temperature hit 12 degrees Fahrenheit.

Candied apricots, sweetened lemon, pears, cloves and honeysuckle aromas run smack into many of those same flavors and more — baked apples — and there’s tremendous acidity to balance the 16% residual sugar and Karo syrup consistency.

Thurston Wolfe

Elk Cove Vineyards

2004 JTW Reserve

2006 Ultima White Wine

Washington, 157 cases, $15 half-bottle

Willamette Valley, 460 cases, $36

Excellent. Wade Wolfe was one of the

Excellent. Complex and salivating aromas from

Northwest’s early Port-style producers, and he remains one of the best. This reserve features Portuguese varieties (Touriga and Souzao) from Lonesome Spring Ranch near Benton City, with Cabernet Sauvignon (Destiny Ridge) and Petite Sirah and Zinfandel off Zephyr Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills. It opens with delicious flavors of plums, cherry cough

these grapes of Riesling (60%), Gewürztraminer (32%) and Muscat — some of the vines are nearly 30 years old — include peaches, spicy apricots, honeysuckle and minerality. It’s definitely for dessert at 23% residual sugar, and the flavors feature huckleberryinfused honey, cloves and apricots with French vanilla ice cream.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WINE REVIEWS

Kiona Vineyards Winery 2006 Ice Wine Yakima Valley, 1,498 cases, $25

Outstanding! These Red Mountain pioneers annually produce some of the Yakima Valley’s top dessert wines, and while the quality is no different, the complexion has changed. It’s two percentage points shy of being called Riesling (73%) because of the blending of Chenin Blanc (27%). Alluring aromas focus on apricots, honey, clove and oranges. On the palate, it’s fresh peaches, glacéed apricots and baked pears with cinnamon and dripped with honey.

Adroitly managed acidity allows those flavors to drape across the tongue. One judge called it “a Marlene Dietrich wine. Sexy from afar and sexy up close.” Residual sugar is 19%.

Sleeping Dog Wines 2006 Sweet Aurora Buoy Vineyards Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley, 70 cases, $19

Excellent. Her name is Aurora. Winery dog is her

game. And she’s got a sweet disposition. That is how this dessert drink by Larry Oates, a winemaker in Benton City, Wash., got its name.

And it’s a wine worth fetching. A sniff brings in hints of creme brulée topping, bananas, pears, apples and mandarin oranges. Lap up the sweet apple entry (8% residual sugar), apricots and more oranges, as well as cinnamon and vanilla. Enjoy this with French vanilla ice cream as well as a fruit plate.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

111

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

WINE REVIEWS

2:22 PM

Page 112

recent releases

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $10 ($12 Canadian) and under.

Columbia Crest 2004 Two Vines Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 400,000 cases, $8

Excellent. It’s by far the largest production of Chardonnay in the

Northwest, but it’s not light on structure. There’s a huge tropical theme throughout of pineapples and banana, a sign of the delicate use of oak aging and malolactic fermentation. At the end, there’s a sense of sweetened yellow grapefruit.

from the folks who make Claar Cellars. Aromas of big-time Ambrosia salad with apple cider and a hint of vanilla from five months in neutral oak. Inside is an entry of grapefruit zest following by pineapple with mouthwatering acidity and a satisfying finish.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Nearly Naked Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 3,500 cases, $10

Excellent. It’s almost 100% organically grown, hence “nearly naked,” but

Covey Run Winery

you can close your eyes and imagine pink grapefruit, fresh oranges, lychee, rosewater and sweet lemons. A fair mount of sugar (2%) and relaxing acidity make this a delicious cocktail sipper.

2005 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 21,953 cases, $9

Recommended. This variety’s food applications often go underrated, and

here’s a version loaded with pairing-friendly acidity. Citrus, Thompson seedless, candy corn and talcum powder aromas don’t really set you up for the big blast of citrus flavors. Grapefruit, lemon and lime acidity carries all the way through to the finish. Enjoy with a Mexican seafood dish that features lime.

Kramer Vineyards 2004 Müller-Thurgau Yamhill-Carlton District, 350 cases, $8

Recommended. Trudy Kramer tends to release this German favorite later

than most, but there’s still plenty of fresh limes, lychee, rosewater, sweet grapefruit and apples swirling inside and out of this tasty sipper.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Naked Riesling Columbia Valley, 7,800 cases, $10

Excellent. Joy Andersen grabbed these certified organic grapes from the

Horse Heaven Hills earlier (Oct. 3) than some took Riesling elsewhere, but she maintained delicious sweetness (3% residual sugar). Expect a nosefull of ripe orchard fruit and squeezed oranges, chased by citron and baked pear flavors with ample acidity and a hint of cinnamon.

Washington Hills Winery 2006 Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 2,112 cases, $8

Ridge Crest

Recommended. Alluring spicy grapefruit, spiced peach, wintergreen and

2005 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 262 cases, $10

Excellent. Looking for a very fruit-forward Chardonnay? Here’s a bargain

Rosés Farm Boy Wines 2005 Rosé Columbia Valley, 125 cases, $12

Outstanding! Rosés made from Sangiovese or

Cabernet Franc in the Northwest often excel.

So Robert Smasne tapped into Stone Ridge Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for both varieties in a 68%/32% blend, respectively, and produced one of the best dry rosés released in 2007. It possesses beautiful color with ripe strawberries and cranberries dominating every aspect. He found tremendous balance and

cinnamon include a sweet savory note with lychee in this off-dry (2.3% residual sugar) release that’s dependable, affordable and widely available.

sent out a very smooth wine without any sharpness.

Maysara

Hip Chicks Do Wine

McMinnville, 1,500 cases, $16

Third Edition Riot Girl Rosé Yakima Valley, 100 cases, $13

Recommended. Their slogan for this touch off-dry

blend of Sangiovese (71%) and Malbec is “not quite red, not quite white, full of desire.” Well, she’s ready to go with a honey glazed ham or other light fare. White strawberry, a whiff of alder smoke and cranberries are the hallmarks of this crisp and balanced blush produced by a pair of fun-loving gals in Portland.

2006 Roseena Rosé Excellent. A Persian would know that Roseena

means “a woman who smells naturally of roses,” and this salmon pink blend of Pinot Noir (50%) and Pinot Blanc (50%) is a charmer.

Aromas of cotton candy, plums, strawberries and blueberries arrive on a silky palate. The splash of residual sugar is balanced beautifully with a lot acidity on the back end, which makes a great match for chicken on a beer can or spicy Asian foods.

Tefft Cellars 2005 Dolcetto Rosé Yakima Valley, 70 cases, $11

Recommended. Joel Tefft in Outlook, Wash., has

an affinity for Italy, and here’s another tasty example with a refreshing rosé featuring pink grapefruit, Bing cherries, peaches, rhubarb and ample acidity.

Willow Crest Winery 2005 Sunflower Series Vita Rosso Yakima Valley, 200 cases, $30

Excellent. This Prosser, Wash., winery sends out

an atypical rosé blend of Syrah (40%), Sangiovese (20%), Malbec (20%) and Merlot (20%) with typical results from David Minick. It’s heavy on pleasing cherries, beginning in the nose along with a hint of coffee, slate, plums,

112

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

98-113 Recent Releases

12/6/07

2:22 PM

Page 113

recent releases pomegranate, cinnamon and a rub of Crayon.

Those charming cherries enter the palate with chocolate, ripe plums and pleasing acidity.

Enjoy with a slice of savory Italian roast beef.

Minick donates $15 from each bottle to the Sarcoma Foundation of America, and the $2 fee charged at the winery to taste the Sunflower wines also goes to this cause. This series is prominently featured on the foundation’s home page at curesarcoma.org.

Domaine Ste. Michelle

Domaine Ste. Michelle

NV Blanc de Blancs

NV Frizzante

Columbia Valley, 32,640 cases, $12

Columbia Valley, 25,000 cases, $12

Excellent. A Chardonnay-based bubbly with just

Oregon, 915 cases, $12

a drop of residual sugar (1%) makes this a nice change of pace to a still Chardonnay.

The effervescence brings out aromas of freshbaked bread, pears and limes. Light and foamy bubbles fill the mouth with rich tropical fruit, more fresh bread and great acidity. It’s a very celebratory drink. Suggested food includes creamy dishes, cheesecake, Brie and shrimp.

Recommended. Fun and unpretentious is what

Domaine Ste. Michelle

Wine By Joe 2006 Muy Bueno Jose’s Rosé Table Wine

this wine is about, starting with the humorous play on Joe Dobbes’ name. And he doesn’t ruin his reputation with this blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and even some Syrah, resulting in a drink full of strawberries, raspberries and even some grapefruit tartness.

It’s strawberry though that hangs on for the full ride.

Working Girl Wines 2006 Rosé The Riveter Horse Heaven Hills, 300 cases, $14

Outstanding! Bordeaux-born winemaker Benoit

Murat arrived at Olympic Cellars in 2004, but he obviously knows his way around famed Champoux Vineyard and the rows of Lemberger there. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, nectarine and rose petal jump right in step with the same flavors, framed by pleasing lemon/lime acidity. He struck a fine balance as nice tartness is equal to the bit of residual sugar (1.65%). Enjoy with a cheese plate.

Sparkling wines Cave B Estate Winery

Outstanding! Rick Casqueiro has entered his second decade heading up Ste. Michelle’s sparkling wine house in Paterson, Wash., and this Italian Spumante version strikes the perfect balance of fun and serious. Honeycrisp apples, sweetened lemons, almond and caramel aromas shoot out of the glass. Candied apples, tropical fruit, pistachio and tremendous acidity impart complexity and terrific length to surround the sweetness (4.3% residual sugar) of a fabulous brunch wine.

NV Brut Columbia Valley, 191,540 cases, $12

Recommended. Elegant bubbles in the glass

carry forth yeasty and toasty notes with orchard fruit. The balanced froth spills out pleasantly soft across the palate, joined apples, pears and a pinch of blueberry before a clean finish that’s nearly dry (1%). Suggested food includes garlic fries, fresh crab and cheese dip with artichokes.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Noirs Columbia Valley, 20,081 cases, $12

Outstanding! Pinot Noir use gives meaning to

the French term “white from red,” yet there’s still the enticing pinkish hue. Indeed, aromas of white strawberry, yeast, wedding cake and a blade of grass set the stage for gorgeous flavors of strawberries and raspberries. Majestic mousse gives it full body and the subtle residual sugar (1%) stretches out the finish of cranberries and strawberry/rhubarb compote.

Suggested food includes fresh fruit, salmon and Asian fare.

2006 Cave B Vineyards Blanc de Blanc

Domaine Ste. Michelle

Columbia Valley, 240 cases, $25

NV Extra Dry

Excellent. Rusty Figgins continues to collaborate

Columbia Valley, 51,919 cases, $12

with Alan Pangborn of Moonlight Sparkling Wine Cellar on this mature French-style sparkler crafted of 100% Chardonnay from the proposed Ancient Lakes appellation near Quincy, Wash. Nice yeast, toasted pine nuts and fresh Wonder bread aromas find favor with rich and tasty flavors of Winesap apples, a piece of caramel and yellow grapefruit on the dry finish.

Excellent. Don’t be misled, but “extra dry”

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WINE REVIEWS

sparklers actually carry more residual sugar — 2.3% in this case — than most of the rest. That crowd-pleasing sweetness, hints of caramel apples, Rainier cherries, cranberry, tropical fruit, a drop of honey and gobs of bubbles give this broad appeal to wedding parties. Suggested food includes Mexican, Thai, sushi and smoked salmon.

W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

113

114 Vintage Musings

COLUMN

12/4/07

11:56 AM

Page 114

vintage musings

BY BOB WOEHLER

Tinhorn leads B.C. in many ways

T

he pleasure of visiting Tinhorn Creek Winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley begins the moment you step inside the front door because some nice person is there offering you a glass of wine.

It’s their way of making you want to visit the tasting room, and just a few more steps away are some of the best wines in Canada and a panoramic view of the Okanagan Valley.

While the name conjures up Jack London and the Yukon gold fields, Tinhorn Creek is not a rustic affair. Rather, it is a grand winery on the west side of the valley just south of Oliver, a town that proclaims itself “the wine capital of Canada.”

Just beyond the view to the north is one of the most scenic vistas in all the Okanagan — McIntyre Bluff — a glaciercarved cliff jutting above Highway 97 along the Okanagan River. It rivals the Columbia Gorge scenic views near Crown Point outside Portland.

So with all that natural beauty surrounding them, Kenn and Sandra Oldfield — along with co-owners Bob and Barb Shaunessy — began to create Tinhorn Creek Winery.

Kenn Oldfield, originally from Ontario, moved to Alberta to work in the oil industry before deciding he wanted a change in careers. He was taken by the fledging wine industry in the Okanagan Valley, so he began a vineyard and went to the University of California at Davis for an education in viticulture.

During the next three years, he planted 150 acres of vineyards and oversaw the construction of the winery, outdoor amphitheater and barrel room.

He then started searching for a winemaker, and he found a wife, too. At Davis, he met Sandra, who moved to Oliver in 1994 to make Tinhorn Creek wines. They soon got married.

Today, they are raising two children and operate one of the most successful winery partnerships in Canada.

Sandra, who has a masters in oenology from Davis, has watched the production go from 1,000 cases that first year to more than 35,000 cases. She’s also developing a premium line of wines to join the regular mix. Along the way, she studied Canadian history and became a Canadian citizen in 2002.

In the meantime, the longtime football fan has forsaken her San Francisco 49ers for the B.C. Lions.

To reach Tinhorn Creek, just south of Oliver on Highway 97, head west on Road 7 passing lush vineyards while driving up the hillside to the winery.

The vista and wineries are grand, but the wines make this place special, particularly including a fine lineup of Merlot, Gewürztraminer and Kerner. And aside from the ice wine, the bottles are guarded by screwcap.

In fact, Tinhorn Creek is credited with pioneering this alternative closure in Canada.

114

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • W I N T E R 2 0 0 7 / 2 0 0 8

2006 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN: Strawberry and cherry candy aromas and flavors are met by bold acidity and good tannins that should stand up to a marinated steak.

2005 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN: This wine placed sixth overall and rated “Outstanding” in Wine Press Northwest’s judging of 120 Northwest Merlots — even though the wine was months away from its commercial release. Inviting aromas of strawberries and bramble berries include a hint of cedar. Flavors are tasty and silky smooth with more strawberries, a bit of raspberries and a food-friendly finish.

2003 Merlot, Okanagan Valley: There is a nice softness to this Merlot, and it shows big cherry and berry aromas with great balance.

2001 Merlot, Okanagan Valley: Marionberry comes to mind when sniffing and sipping this red. Smooth and tasty like jam with pretty good oak underpinnings.

2006 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $16 CDN: Hints of lemon curd and grapefruit tickle the nose. Barrel fermentation gives it added body with a hint of strawberries.

2006 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $23 CDN: The influence of French oak is subtle and pleasant, but there are plenty of apple and pineapple aromas and flavors. Good acidity makes it with food-friendly.

2006 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley, $16 CDN: This is finished dry with inviting rosemary and citrus notes that are joined by dominant grapefruit flavors and outstanding acidity.

2003 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley: There’s an amazing absence of oxidation, particularly with regards to the use of cork. It opens with a nice greeting of yellow grapefruit aromas, startfruit, lemon curd and fresh-ground coriander. For flavors, start with a spoonful of Yoplait Original Lemon Burst yogurt. The acidity is a bit soft on the entry, but it builds to pleasing levels and carries a segment of sugared grapefruit to the finish.

2005 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, $18 CDN: Cedar and oak notes are joined by cherry cobbler aromas. It’s smooth in the mouth with more cherries, but the body is sturdy enough to stand up to beef.

2005 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $17 CDN: Spicy aromas with black pepper give way to a palate dominated by plum flavors and warm yet food-friendly tannins.

2006 Kerner Ice Wine, Okanagan Valley, $25 CDN (half-bottle):

Kerner is a 20th century German cross of Riesling and Trollinger, and Oldfield crafts this as well as anyone in the Northwest. “Rich tropical and tree fruit aromas rise from the golden wine swirling in the glass with 26 percent residual sugar,” is how she described this vintage.

BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

115 Esquin ad

12/2/07

5:55 PM

Page 115

116 U-Line

12/2/07

5:57 PM

Page 116