Clare Valley A remarkable place The Clare Valley is unique among wine regions. That it has built its fame by producing Australia’s finest expressions of a variety that seems perpetually out of fashion and underpriced is reason enough to take a closer look. And when you do, you’ll discover that there’s a lot more to the Clare Valley than just Riesling. By TYSON STELZER
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Clare Valley A remarkable place The Clare Valley is unique among wine regions. That it has built its fame by producing Australia’s finest expressions of a variety that seems perpetually out of fashion and underpriced is reason enough to take a closer look. And when you do, you’ll discover that there’s a lot more to the Clare Valley than just Riesling. By TYSON STELZER
52 wineshowcase magazine
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here are very few pockets in the wine world capable of growing a great diversity of varieties at world-class standards. Somehow, inexplicably, the Clare produces an incredible array of wines representing exacting varietal correctness, many of which sell at prices that offer great value for money. This remarkable place is the home of dry, medium and sweet Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Semillon, Rosé, Merlot, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon (and its various blends with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec), sparkling and still Shiraz and even fortified Muscat. There is a relaxed, rural atmosphere in the Clare Valley like no other wine region within two hours drive of an Australia capital city. As you head north from Adelaide, sweeping expanses of dull, flat wheat fields rise to a vinous oasis of picturesque, rolling hills, quaint gullies, sweeping skies dotted with galahs and a line of charming little villages and their historic stone buildings defining the way to the township of Clare itself.
Photographs © South Australian Tourism Commission. Photographers Mike Annese, Adam Bruzzone, Vanessa Size.
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Surprisingly, the Clare Valley is no valley at all, rather an elevated plateau of subvalleys carved into the hills by numerous meandering creeks. Its elevation thrusts its vineyards to cool altitudes between 320 and 570m. This is crucial in defining the wine styles at such a warm latitude – this is of one of South Australia’s most northerly fine wine regions. The Clare’s cool evenings bless its wines with crunchy natural acidities, structured spines and distinctive varietal markers. No surprise that the Clare is the home of one of Australia’s finest expressions of Riesling. Classic floral aromas are the signature here, with distinctive notes of lemon and lime that can turn into tropical fruit characters in warmer vintages. The benchmark Clare Rieslings of the great seasons are characterised by the cool signposts of fragrant lemon blossom, nervy lime fruit, restrained
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alcohol and deep-set minerality. Prolonged flavour development over a slow ripening season produces great palate persistence and linearity. These are high-strung, refreshing wines, promising great longevity, ultimately developing toasty, waxy, honeyed flavours with maturity. Shiraz claims the crown as the most distinctive and most famous red grape of the Clare. The slow, even ripening conditions furnished by cool nights and warm days nurture full-bodied wines deep in colour and concentration, with Clare’s signature acid backbone and often lifted, floral aromatics. The ancient, towering gums of the region share their scent with vines located in close proximity and it’s not uncommon to find a characteristic eucalypt or menthol note in some Clare Valley reds. Purists may question the merits of this character, but
is it any less a part of the terroir of the region than the lavender of Provence or the wild ‘garrigue’ of the Languedoc? There are very few places on earth that can claim both world-class Riesling and Cabernet, but the warm days of the Clare make it possible to ripen Cabernet reliably, even in the highest vineyard in the region. Perched on a stark, windswept hillside, Jeffrey Grosset’s “Gaia” vineyard is so elevated that the nearest landmark is a mobile phone tower. This rugged environment produces varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot which blend to produce a distinguished, long-ageing wine. The Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec blend is a regional specialty. The naturally tannic Malbec grape can be a formidable soloist but lends structure and savoury complexity to this duet. The two varieties are somehow more in tune together in
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the Clare than elsewhere and the best examples exhibit tremendous stamina in the cellar. The Clare has at times been known for weapons-grade, high octane blockbusters but its most distinctive and captivating reds are refined and medium-bodied. The unique haven of the legendary Wendouree vineyard in the heart of the region nurtures century-old vines that produce wines with alcohols that remain in the thirteens. Some new generation Clare makers are equally passionate about restraint, and Kerri Thompson’s “Wines by KT Churinga Vineyard Shiraz” is a benchmark glimpse toward of the future of Clare Shiraz. In spite of the diversity of varieties that the Clare has mastered, its producers remain loyal to the styles that have sustained their livelihood for more than a century-and-a-half. There is a resolute
independence among Clare winegrowers, who refuse to sell out to the cycles of popular varieties, instead passionately pursuing Riesling, a variety that seems perpetually out of fashion. In so doing, they craft some of the finest, most ageworthy and best value white wines in Australia. Those of us in the fortunate minority who adore the noble Riesling grape remain eternally grateful. Photographs © South Australian Tourism Commission. Photographers Mike Annese, Adam Bruzzone, Vanessa Size.
below left
Paulett’s Winery.
Below middle Below right
Skilly Valley.
Pikes Winery.
tyson stelzer Tyson Stelzer is the author and publisher of eleven wine books. He writes freelance articles for Wine Spectator, America’s largest selling wine publication, Decanter, the UK’s most prominent wine magazine and, in Australia, Gourmet Traveller Wine, WBM, Vintage Cellar’s Cellar Press and Selector. He pens a wine page every month for Style Magazine and is a benchmark wine reviewer for WBM100. He is a contributor to Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine Third Edition, which names him as the most prolific writer in the world on the topic of screw caps. As an international speaker, Tyson has presented at wine conferences in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Japan and the United Kingdom. He is a regular judge at wine shows in Australia including The National Wine Show of Australia, The Royal Melbourne Wine Show and The Sydney Royal Wine Show. He is a co-creator with UK wine writer Matthew Jukes of The Great Australian Red Competition. He coauthors the annual guide, Taste Food & Wine with Matthew Jukes. The book was the winner of the Award for the Best Food and Wine Writing in the Australian Food Media Awards in 2008. Tyson was a finalist for the International Wine and Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year 2006 and for the Best Wine/Food Guide Book in the Le Cordon Bleu World Food Media Awards 2010. Issue 3 | may 2011 55
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ituated in the northern Mt Lofty Ranges, South Australia’s Clare Valley was settled in the late 1830s, with the first vineyards planted and wines produced in the early 1840s. The same features that make the Clare Valley inherently beautiful are also the foundation of Clare’s famed vineyards. The climate features a warm to hot summer, but cooling afternoon breezes play a major role in slowing down the ripening process. Some of Australia’s finest Riesling is grown in the Clare Valley, and the region also produces many other wine styles, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
Regional Checklist Clare Valley ’s history as a winemaking region going back 160 years. The region has a diversity of soil, aspect and altitude. The resulting wines reflect this diversity. The region is currently home to about 50 wineries. Renowned for production of premium dry Riesling. The climate features a warm to hot summer, but cooling afternoon breezes play a major role in slowing down the ripening process. One of the most picturesque wine regions in South Australia.
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Clare Valley Regional Tasting
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About two hours north of Adelaide, South Australia, the Clare Valley is home to about 50 wineries.
Climate
Wines
Vital Statistics
The weather data for the region points to a far warmer climate than is the case – cool afternoon breezes are the key and play a major role in slowing down the ripening process.
Riesling The Clare Valley is renowned as a premier producer of dry Riesling styles. The wines are characterized by juicy citrus characters, minerality and long, fine natural acidity. The best examples have been proven to age for 20-plus years. While many parts of the Clare Valley have been proven to make great Riesling, there has been a focus by many producers on the subregions of Watervale and Polish Hill River. The vineyards of Watervale are predominately grown on limestone and produce a juicier Riesling, whereas the vineyards around Polish Hill River are grown on mainly slate, producing more tightly focussed wines.
Map Coordinates 33 50oS
Furthermore, altitude and position within the Valley, as well as aspect, lead to considerable variations in individual site climate. Overall, however, the climate is moderately Continental, with cool to cold nights and warm to hot summer days. The rainfall is winter-spring dominant, while relatively low humidity (and summer rainfall) means a low incidence of fungal disease.
Soil Soils of the Clare Valley range from classic terra rossa red topsoil over limestone in the Watervale district to the broken slate of Polish Hill River. The vineyards at the northern end of the valley are planted in deep fertile alluvial ground, where there is little or no need for irrigation. Vineyards in the Skillogalee Valley, to the west of the main valley, are planted into sandy loams with varying amounts of degraded quartz. Typically the soils from most areas of the valley are free-draining and hold enough water to only require the smallest quantities of supplementary irrigation during the hottest months.
Shiraz The Clare Valley produces Shiraz that has fragrance, power, structure and finesse. Typical fruit characteristics are red berries, spice and chocolate. The wines are underpinned by powerful yet soft tannins and the best examples have long cellaring potential.
Altitude 400 – 500 metres (1312 -1640 feet) Heat degree days, October - April 1770 Growing season rainfall, October - April 200 millimetres (7.9 inches) Mean January temperature 21.9 C (71.42 F) Relative humidity, October - April, 3pm 37% Harvest February - April Source: WINE AUSTRALIA
Cabernet Sauvignon The Clare Valley makes a distinctive regional style of Cabernet with dark berries, chocolate, a juicy mid-palate, cigar box and long fine tannins being typical characters. Cabernet Sauvignon from Clare can be particularly long lived. Cabernet Malbec blends are also considered a regional speciality. Semillon Semillon grown in Clare shows lemon and/or tropical fruit characters. The wines have good fruit concentration and are rich in character with juicy acidity. The best examples can develop further richness with time in bottle.
Photographs Š South Australian Tourism Commission. Photographer Mike Annese.
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Clos Clare Watervale Riesling 2010
Crabtree Watervale Zibibbo 2009
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2010
Leasingham Classic Clare Riesling 2006
This forty-year-old, dry-grown vineyard infuses a mineral backbone to the pear, apple and guava fruit of this wine, even in a warmer vintage like 2010.
Slightly sweet and slightly sophisticated, this is a refreshing alternative to moscato because it’s not nearly as sweet. Light ginger, lemonade and musk stick characters will work well with spicy Thai cuisine.
The 30th release of Polish Hill is laced with gorgeous Linden blossom, lime sorbet and not-quite-ripe pear flavours, supported by scintillating minerality and epic persistence.
Spectacularly structured Clare riesling, rippling with minerality and set for a long life. It’s developing into the toasty, complex style of mature Clare riesling.
A broad collection covering a spectrum of different wine styles from the Clare Valley. These wines have been reviewed by our judging panel and writers and have been selected to highlight the various styles and grape varietals available from the region. 58 wineshowcase magazine
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Mount Horrocks Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
O’Leary Walker Claire Reserve Shiraz 2006
Quintessential Clare cabernet, loaded with red fruits and notes of capsicum, coffee, eucalypt and mint. Supple, ripe tannins are supported by dusty oak structure.
A maelstrom of powerful black fruit, liquorice and dark chocolate swells to a crescendo and the glides into a delightfully calm, consummately controlled finish.
Pikes The Merle Riesling 2010
Tim Adams Pinot Gris 2010
A flagship riesling of purity, concentration and structure, layered with kaffir lime fruit and green pepper and a very fine, chalky minerality, contributing mouthfilling texture.
It looks, smells and tastes pink, with subtle pomegranate and pink grapefruit nuances, tempered by well-defined, mineral acidity and soft residual sweetness.
Photographs Š South Australian Tourism Commission. Photographer Mike Annese.
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Tim McNeil Watervale Riesling 2010 Dry grown and hand picked from the heart of Watervale, this is a bargain riesling that strikes a great balance between zesty lime and lemon fruit and fleshy white nectarines and ginger.
Wines by KT Melva Riesling 2010
Wilson DJW Riesling 2010
The Clare’s most progressive young maker crafts beautifully textured, mineral rieslings. Fresh and lively, Melva maintains lovely breadth of white stone fruit and pink lady apple nuances.
Generous youthful fresh citrus aromas, Great length and depth of flavours with a nice crisp acidic zing. A delicious focused wine Showing true Clare characters.
Kilakanoon Oracle Shiraz 2008 Bright woody aromas layered with bright fresh berries underneath with a hint of vanilla. It has a beautiful ripe savoury palate with plenty of succulent sweet shiraz fruit to carry it through for a lingering finish.
Photographs Š South Australian Tourism Commission. Photographers Mike Annese, Jacqui Way, Vanessa Size.
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Over 200 cellar doors right on your doorstep.
Isn’t it about time you visited Adelaide, Australia’s wine capital? The city is surrounded by wine regions, with the Barossa, McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills all just a short drive away. Even closer is Magill Estate, home of the iconic Penfold’s Grange. All up, over 200 cellar doors within about an hour of Adelaide. The first step of your journey is to log onto southaustralia.com
kwp!SAT10828
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The last of seven Jesuit winemakers, Brother John May SJ, is a passionate advocate of Sevenhill and the Clare Valley through his involvement in the winery’s day-to-day activities and as a tourism ambassador for the region.
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Jesuit link grows export network The Clare Valley’s oldest winery is reaching out to the New World.
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ustralia’s Sevenhill Cellars, known as Ignatius Cellars in the United States, is expanding into the New England area through its Jesuit connections. In addition to the US market, Sevenhill’s wines are exported to China, Korea and Switzerland. The winery, located in South Australia’s Clare Valley, was founded by the Jesuits (Society of Jesus) in 1851 and is the oldest in the region.
Ignatius Cellars’ Inigo label is being promoted through New England’s Jesuit communities, with the wines to be featured at the annual fundraising gala dinner of the New England Province of the Society of Jesus. Another notable achievement for the Inigo wines is their listing at New York’s acclaimed Veritas Restaurant, which is world-renown for its contemporary American cuisine and prestigious wine cellar. Veritas’ wine list includes a number of reserve wines from the private cellar of the restaurants’ founder and partner, Park B. Smith.
The Jesuits’ connection with Sevenhill began when two young Austrian priests arrived in South Australia in 1848. Little did they know that their pioneering spirit and work ethic in a new land would lay the foundation for the enduring craft of winemaking under the banner of Sevenhill Cellars and Ignatius Cellars in the US. The Jesuits came to Australia as chaplains to a group of 150 Austrians, which sought a new life in Australia after fleeing the religious and political oppression of Europe. The immigrants, mainly farmers, landed in Adelaide, now the capital of South Australia, and travelled about 140 kilometres north to the Clare Valley where they settled after being impressed with the fertile quality of the land. The Jesuits were equally impressed with the area’s agricultural potential and they purchased 100 acres of land, taking up residence in 1851 and naming the area Sevenhill after the Seven Hill district of Rome.
It was their determination to provide sacramental wine to the parishes of Australia’s emerging colonies that began Sevenhill Cellars with the planting of vines, followed by construction of a winery, a Jesuit residence and secondary school for boys (the College) and St Aloysius’ Church. These historic buildings remain in active use today and form the centerpiece of Sevenhill’s popularity as a tourist destination where visitors not only enjoy the wine experience in a busy cellar door, but also take the opportunity to appreciate its unique spiritual and historic character as the birthplace of the Jesuits in Australia. Still wines have become a significant part of the winery’s operation, with its diverse portfolio recognised for the distinctive style that has given the Clare Valley wine region an international reputation. The success of its premium wines enables Sevenhill to continue the original mission of providing sacramental wine to churches in Australia and other countries, retaining a much-treasured facet of its winemaking heritage.
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Clare’s ability to produce wines of great integrity is linked to its favourable climate and topography for growing grapes. The region receives good winter/ spring rain, with an annual rainfall of 700 millimetres at Sevenhill, and the valley’s elevation (400 metres above sea level) ensures cool nights, a critical factor during the hot summer months of the ripening season and harvest. Sevenhill combines these natural advantages with modern winemaking skills and highly prized vineyards. The winery’s 72 hectares of vines produce high-quality fruit that is rich and concentrated, qualities that flow through the wines’ elegant character. These wines are readily identifiable through their connection to Sevenhill’s (Ignatius Cellars’) Jesuit heritage. The Inigo range honours St Ignatius, the Jesuits’ founder and his tireless work to improve the lives of others. Inigo wines are highly acclaimed for expressing classic Clare Valley single 64 wineshowcase magazine
The Inigo range honours St Ignatius, the Jesuits’ founder and his tireless work to improve the lives of others.
varieties, including Riesling, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot. Saints are elegant wines made from small parcels of exceptional fruit. Winemaking for the St Aloysius Riesling focuses on preserving the vineyard’s pristine character, with bottle ageing before release, while the St Ignatius is a stylish blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc in the style of Bordeaux. Refined flavour and structure mark this sophisticated wine.
Orders please telephone +618 xxxx xxxx or email: xxx@xxx www.xxxx.com
Residing Jesuits are actively involved in Sevenhill’s development in partnership with lay staff who share the ethos JESUIT WINES – EXPERIENCE THE DISTINCT of building the Jesuit Mission to support works of charity and compassion STYLE OF AUSTRALIA’S CLARE VALLEY in Australia.
Ignatius Cellars proudly presents Inigo - a line of J produced varietal wines from the internationally re Clare Valley region - and newly available in the United States.