Wine Times Hong Kong Issue 10

August 2015

Issue 10 FREE

Luis Pato:

Rebel, Icon, Legend

Luis Pato： 叛逆的代表人物

TOP 10

Beach Bars

十大沙灘酒吧

Footprints of WTHK: A Tour to Italy 跟隨WTHK的足跡： 意大利之行

the creativity forge

Drink Up, Hong Kong! 香港飲勝！

Ali Nicol Founder of Wine Times Hong Kong A local Hong Konger who has been working in the wine business for over 15 years. Obviously loves wine and wants to share all the lovely wines with everyone.

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am sure many of you are enjoying the summer sun and that many of you has either been away somewhere exotic or are planning to head off somewhere nice in August. Many of us hate the summer more for its relentless humidity rather than anything else; but with the amount of bars that have airconditioning these days; there are plenty of places where you can go to beat the heat.

Our Top 10 this month is more for those who like the heat and the sun as we have trawled around the coasts of Hong Kong to find our top 10 recommended beach bars – not necessarily for wine drinking, just for overall experience, relaxation and a way to get away from the city on those precious weekends during the summer months.

Away from home, I headed to Italy for a week at the beginning of July to spend five days in southern Italy and a day up north. We wrote every day on the website about or experiences abroad but in this issue we give you a little synopsis of the places and the wines we visited and tasted thanks to Italia del Vino and Grandi Marchi. It was an intense week and was nothing like a holiday, but we had a blast and met some very cool people, ate some amazing food and tried some world class wines.

Our cover story this month features none other than the rebellious,

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pioneering and legendary winemaker from Portugal, Luis Pato.

Maker of some stunning wines that are “not your average Portuguese wines”, we sat down with the highly regarded and respected man for a chat in local Portuguese restaurant Casa Lisboa.

Staying on the theme of Portugal, we also explain to you a little more about Madeira – a different style of wine made on an Atlantic island under the control of Portugal. These wines are superb and although may take a little getting used to, are a breath of fresh air, something different and a style of wine that can almost live forever in your cellars.

We also talk to rock star winemaker Matt Dees from famed Screaming Eagle winery’s little brother winery Jonata. Located in California’s Santa Ynez valley, we talk to Matt about himself, his passion for wine and how he became a winemaker – we would tell you about the wines, but we believe they speak for themselves and suggest you go out and buy some and judge for yourself!

In all, we have another issue packed with interesting things to do, interesting people and some great, world class wines. So grab a glass, turn the page, sit back and relax and enjoy our August issue of WTHK! Cheers!

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信許多人現在正享受着夏日的陽光，而 許多人也選擇在八月份外遊並享受異國 的夏季。不過，許多人同時也非常討厭夏帶來 的雨水和濕氣，但香港幾乎所有酒吧均為冷氣 開放，一定能找到消消暑氣的好去處。 本月的十大專為喜歡和陽光玩遊戲的你而設， 我們為讀者走遍香港從南到北的海灘，搜羅可 以讓人邊喝酒邊看沙灘景的酒吧—或許當中 有些並不是葡萄酒酒吧，但卻是個放輕鬆的好 去處，令你能遠離城市的繁忙勞碌好好享受珍 貴的週末時光。 在七月初，我離開香港展開意大利之行，在南 部待上五天，然後在最後一天前往北部。我們 身在國外的每一天也不忘於WTHK的網站分享 所見所聞，今期的雜誌也會載有此行的「精華 版」，在此我們需向Italia del Vino和Grandi March表達謝意，感謝他們邀請WTHK參與其 中。雖然這幾天的行程非常緊湊，並不是個悠 閒的假期，但這個旅程完滿結束之餘，我們也 認識了新的朋友，吃過一流的美食並喝過世界 級的美酒。 本月的封面人物叛逆、創新、傳奇的釀酒師 Luis Pato，所釀造的美酒佳釀絕非一般葡萄 牙葡萄酒的貨色。我們相約這位備受尊崇的釀 酒師，來到葡國菜餐廳Casa Lisboa與他談天 說地。 另外一篇報道亦與葡萄牙主題有關— Madeira—屬於另一種風格的葡萄酒，產於葡 萄牙管治的一個大西洋島嶼。這種酒很特別， 可能一開始嚐到它是還魚適應，但其口味清 新，而且更可說它是「永遠不老」的酒。 我們也訪問了有性格的釀酒師Matt Dees， 他在Screaming Eagle酒莊的「親生弟弟」 Jonata酒莊工作，致力釀造產自美國加州 Santa Ynez地區的葡萄酒。我們與他舉杯談 天，了解他與他作為釀酒師的一切；至於他釀 造的葡萄酒，我們沒有多談，所謂『一試便知 龍與鳳』，我們建議你自己嚐嚐它便知道了！ 總結而言，我們又出版了另一期內容豐富有趣 的WTHK雜誌，當中不乏酒界的大人物以及世 界級的佳釀，希望你能好好的享受閱讀我們的 八月號！飲杯！ (Christie Chan譯) Contact us via email at md@winetimeshk.com

Contents 目錄

2 Drink Up, Hong Kong!

Hello Wine World 4 走進酒世界

香港飲勝！

7 Baga Off: A Rebel With A Clue!

August’s Wine Events 13 品酒日曆－八月份

是他太瘋癲抑或他人看不穿？ —叛逆分子Luis Pato

17 The Wine Doctor:

Moscato; Something Sweet for Summer 酒博士專欄： 嚐一口夏日的甜—Moscato

Footprints of WTHK: 19 A Tour of Italy

跟隨WTHK的足跡：意大利之行

p7 Rebel by Luis Pato

p19 Footprints of WTHK: A Tour of Italy

24 Winemaker Chat – Matt Dees of Jonata 釀酒師訪問： Jonata酒莊的Matt Dees

Top 10 Beach Bars 29 十大沙灘酒吧

36 Editor’s Review:

Penfolds RWT & Cocktails by Charles Joly at aqua 小編點評：Penfolds RWT及 Charles Joly獨家調製的夏日雞尾酒

NZ Sauvignon Blanc 38 shortage: Is the sky really falling?

紐西蘭Sauvignon Blanc短缺： 這是大事件嗎？

41 Wine Times Macau: Whine-On: 44 Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄：想問就問！

Island Wines: A Taste of Madeira 澳門：島嶼之酒Madeira

48 Recruitment in the wine business 行業人才招聘

p24 Jonata by Matt Dees

p38 Happy Wine Woman

p36 Ocean Drive@aqua winetimeshk.com 3

Christie Chan Editor of Wine Times Hong Kong Almost an alcoholic who thinks the fun part of life starts getting unlocked when you drink. On first impression is not into girly-ness and sweetness; but spirits and liquors.

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chievement unlocked – Christie Chan has been working for Wine Times Hong Kong for ONE year now! I still remember how I felt when I first joined WTHK – small-scaled media corporate founded and led by Ali who is easy-going and passionate about wines as well as a practical person. Still feeling the same, I am happy that Ali and I always work as a team; he does what he does best and I do what I do best. I sincerely hope our specialization will continue to bring good work to our readers and lead WTHK to a brighter future.

Reviewing what work was done last month, again Ali was out of town in early July and headed to Italy for winery visits, while I was here in Hong Kong going to tastings on behalf of WTHK as we don’t want to miss them. I’ve attended the first-ever full vertical tasting of Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 1997 to 2012 at the Ritz Carlton, which was hosted by Penfolds Chief Winemaker Peter Gago. It was a great tasting experience for me as I don’t often get the chance to taste the difference of the wines throughout the years. Another tasting event I’ve gone to was a bit special for me as it was the first cocktail tasting I’ve attended – Curated Menu by 2014 WORLD CLASS™ Champion Charles Joly at aqua. It was a night full of enjoyment that I tasted several awesome cocktails made by Charles Joly and enjoyed watching him and his crew working behind the bar as well as the ever stunning night view of Victoria Harbour on the 30th floor at aqua in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Not only should the best bartenders acquire excellent bartending skills to make great cocktails but also have the charisma to catch the eyes of their customers as if they are on a stage performing. No customers will complain about long wait on their drinks when they are entertained while waiting, right? Attending these two interesting tasting events, I’ve written a report about them so please check what’s on the pages that I’ve shared with you in this issue.

Believe it or not half of summer has gone and it’s time to get to the beaches whenever we can before we’ll be missing the big sun and tanned skin. So I’ve been going to beaches to see if there are great bars or places to drink by the beach and came up with Top 10 Beach Bars in Hong Kong. Check these places out and enjoy drinking and the beach view at the same time, why not?

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然容易又一年，我已在WTHK工作一年了！還記得初這裏 工作的感受：老闆Ali是個容易相處的人，而且真的對葡萄 酒充滿熱誠，因此才創立了這家規模小的傳媒機構，與眾人分享 各款的美酒佳釀。一年後，感覺依舊，我和Ali各自做自己在行 的事，名符其實為一個工作團隊，希望我們能繼續發揮分工合作 的優點，為讀者帶來更多有趣的酒品資訊，而WTHK業務亦會蒸 蒸日上。 回顧上月的工作，Ali於月初又再外出公幹，他到了意大利參 觀了幾個酒莊(詳情請讀讀他所寫的文章)，而我則在香港代表 WTHK參與我們不想錯過的試酒會。幸得Penfolds邀請，我參 與了由Penfolds首席釀酒師Peter Gago主持的垂直品酒會，有 機會嚐RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 1997至2012年份的紅酒，嚐 透了整整16年的變化！而另一 個試酒會則為香港及倫敦高級食 府aqua推出新的夏日雞尾酒， 他們請來2014年World Class™ 調酒大賽冠軍Charles Joly創作 一系列具夏日色彩的雞尾酒。 喝着清新可口的雞尾酒，望着 Charles Joly以及其團隊「有型 地」為賓客調製飲料，再從尖沙 咀海旁位於第30層樓高的aqua 遠眺欣賞着維港夜景，真讓我度 過了一個美好的晚上！最佳調酒 師不只擁有專業純熟的調酒技 巧，更要在調酒時發放令人目不 暇給的魅力，這樣才稱得上為最 佳調酒師吧！如果客人等候飲料 來到已經等了好一段時間，而期 間眼睛一直被調酒師所吸引，相 信被娛樂的他或她也不會多作投 訴的，是嗎？而我出席了這兩場 試酒會，也想與讀者們分享我的 看法，就請你們翻頁到我所寫的 文章，細閱我的分享吧。 不到你不相信，我們的夏天已經過了一半，所以要把握到海灘的 好時機，免得到冬天來臨時才後悔，記掛着大大的太陽和一身古 銅膚色。因此，我為讀者走遍了香港各個沙灘，尋訪位於沙灘旁 的酒吧或餐廳，推介了《十大沙灘酒吧》。能夠一邊享受着陽光 與海灘，一邊喝着喜歡的啤酒、雞尾酒或葡萄酒，何樂而不為？

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Baga Off: A Rebel With A Clue!

是他太瘋癲 抑或 他人看不穿？ —叛逆分子 Luis Pato

Text by Ali Nicol Photography by Christie Chan 譯文、攝影：Christie Chan Images 圖像：Luis Pato winetimeshk.com 7

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any of our readers here at Wine Times Hong Kong tell us how much they rate and love drinking Portuguese wines but the selection of wines from any part of Portugal, with the exception of fortified wines called Port has always been pretty poor in the city. Macau has mainly had the monopoly on Portuguese wines as we have traditionally headed over there for our wine-fuelled weekends at restaurants such as Fernando’s that have always sold Portuguese wines at a more affordable price than they were here in Hong Kong.

But, a recent swing towards more interesting wines and a drop in the interest in the traditionally drunk French wines, the door has opened for Portuguese wines and companies such as Adega Royale are now importing some quality wines from all over Portugal into Hong Kong – and making the prices of the wines extremely affordable too!

One of the great wines they import into the city are the wines of revolutionary winemaker Luis Pato.

Luis makes wines in the Bairrada region of Portugal and is inventive, creative, rebellious and, on the whole a genuinely great man with a wicked sense of humour and, all that being said; a man who takes his wines and his winemaking very seriously.

Luis did not start off with a winemaking background; he has a degree in chemical engineering although he could have a degree in law for all the time he has spent arguing with the “powers that be” of Portuguese wine law-makers.

Consistently looking to make wines from grapes and in a style that contradicts the laws of DO Bairrada, he has often de-classified his wines and withdrawn many from the denomination making them simply Vinho Regional Beiras as opposed to DO Bairrada.

“A rebel? Me? Of course!! But I keep my identity. I am from the 1960’s generation when the revolution was in the streets in France, even in Portugal. So, this asking for freedom is in my origins – in my fermentation, in my skin! I like to keep my freedom, doing what I want to do. But I am the owner; I can’t do bad things!”

Luis popped into Hong Kong and Macau a couple of weeks ago to host a few dinners and see what’s going on in Asia. Wine Times HK took an afternoon out with Luis and tasted some of the range of his wines available in the city.

We caught up in local Portuguese restaurant Casa Lisboa for a quick chat about his wines and get to know more about the man himself.

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們知道許多WTHK的讀者喜歡喝葡萄牙 的葡萄酒，對其評價也不錯，但除了加 烈葡萄酒砵酒(Port)外，其他產自葡萄牙內各 產區的葡萄酒，在城內的選擇卻少之又少。澳 門可謂獨市經營葡萄牙葡萄酒市場，如果要度 一個暢飲無礙的週末，我們會到澳門的法蘭度 餐廳(Restaurante Fernando)，在那裏喝上許 多的葡萄牙葡萄酒遠比香港的餐廳來得便宜。 不過，近來享用葡萄酒的趨勢有所改變，飲者 對傳統常喝到的法國葡萄酒興趣減低，反之 樂於嚐到出奇不意的葡萄酒，這也為葡萄牙 的葡萄酒帶來了商機，本港酒零售商Adega Royale也進口不少產自葡萄牙的葡萄酒，售 價更是非常合理而負擔得起的呢！ 他們進口的葡萄牙葡萄酒當中，由革命創新的 釀酒師Luis Pato所釀造的為上乘之品。他在 葡萄牙Bairrada產區釀酒，是個具創作力、具 創意、叛逆而富幽默感的釀酒師，但最重要的 是，他對他的葡萄酒及釀酒事業非常認真。 Luis並非一開始便投身釀酒事業，他畢業於化 學工程科；或許更可取得一個法律學位，只因 他一直以來與葡萄酒的立法機關爭辯不休。他 嚮往釀造的葡萄酒與DO Bairrada產區相關的 法例規定不乎，於是他常常在葡萄酒分類及 命名上降級和讓步，把他的葡萄酒產地列為 Vinho Regional Beiras，而非DO Bairrada產 區。 「反叛分子？我？當然是吧！然而我認清自 我。我來自六十年代，正值革命年代，當時法 國，甚至葡萄牙的街道上也充斥着革命抗爭。 因此，爭取自由是我的本性──更在我的釀酒 中，在我的皮膚裏！我喜歡我享有的自由，可 以做自己想做的事。但身為擁有者，我不能做 壞事！」 Luis上月來到香港及澳門，舉行了數個葡萄酒 晚宴，也了解到現時亞洲葡萄酒市場的情況。 趁着這個機會，我們邀他到葡國菜餐廳Casa Lisboa與之訪問，並一同嚐嚐其中能在香港購 買得到的葡萄酒，進一步認識他的葡萄酒以及 他本人。 「對我來說，我釀造不出我不喜歡的葡萄酒。 這是不可能的。我以自己種植的葡萄釀酒， 而所種植的葡萄品種由我自己挑選，是我認 為最適合於那片土壤上種植的品種，這運用 到我35年來的釀酒經驗。舉例說，Baga葡萄 比較適合在黏土(clay)或白堊土壤(chalky soil) 上生長，而Cercial葡萄也是一樣，但Maria Gomez葡萄則較適合於砂土(sandy soil)上種 植。選擇在最適合的土壤上種植最適合的葡 萄，這個優化程序乃最重要的一環。」 Luis的葡萄酒容易入喉，與厚身且重單寧的 Dao紅酒截然不同，但澳門不少商鋪卻多擺賣 Dao紅酒吸引旅客選購，而這些葡萄酒往往令

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口腔失望。Luis的葡萄酒呈現出一定的「新世 界葡萄酒風格」，而Luis指這是因為「消費者 喜歡嚐到新鮮感」。 「我會釀造合消費者口味的葡萄酒，但同時 我會掙用傳統的葡萄品種，以及自己喜歡的 方式去釀酒。」Luis說。「例如，以Maria Gomez葡萄釀造的葡萄酒與絕大部分的亞洲 食物也配搭；但我也可以該葡萄釀造出甜酒或 氣泡酒，用以配搭中菜或泰國菜。在我的葡萄 酒中，你可以嚐到當中的多元化，總能與某類 食物配搭──而不一定是葡國菜。」 葡萄牙的葡萄酒經歷的變化不少，從Luis的父 親開始，以較為傳統方式釀酒，所釀葡萄酒也 主要供應予葡萄牙國內市場的需求，或是為了 鍾情於葡萄牙葡萄酒、來自一至兩個年代前的 英國人而釀造。 「我的父親是個傳統種植葡萄的農民，因此我 選讀化學工程科令他大為驚訝。但是現在，我 比他使用更少化學物──我與他的看法有所不 同；現時的人想法總會與以前不同吧。」 在Luis的思想中，傳統仍然佔有一大部分，雖 然不難看到他一直在使葡萄酒變得更多元化及 更創新，以酒莊的風土種植出最好的葡萄，最 終釀造出最好的葡萄酒。他意識到，要釀造自 己及飲者皆喜歡的葡萄酒，他需要把傳統及新 式混合起來。 「我想用傳統的葡萄但以稍為現代的釀酒方式 釀造葡萄酒。」Luis說。「我的家族自18世紀 以來便從事葡萄酒業，因此我們不用刻意接受 有關釀酒學的訓練，我們可從父母釀酒的過程 及方式中學習到傳統釀酒法。」Luis強調這點 同時，說：「我釀造葡萄酒時會保持其傳統， 但也喜歡加入創新元素。這也是我向女兒們指 出的一點：我們一定要具有創意，一定要當走 在前端的人。如果我們不經他人的批評，那將 會是件壞事。」 我們喜歡其中三款葡萄酒(暫時還未嚐到他的 氣泡酒，但指日可待)，Vinhos Velhas 2013 便是其中之一，這款白酒香氣四溢，口感細膩 順滑，餘韻帶有大黃和吉士醬的味道。「這就 像是混合了Chablis及Alsace葡萄的白酒。」 Luis接着說：「但絕不是Chardonnay及Riesling！」 Rebel 2010則可算是近年來一枝具標誌性的 葡萄酒，而且酒標上更盡展Luis外向「過癮」 的性格。這紅酒是款具新世界風格而容易入喉 的Baga紅酒，其單寧結構及果味均很好。它 是枝配搭食物享用的紅酒，但卻容易入喉；幾 乎就如Nebbiolo紅酒一樣的結構與口感(可能 有些人會說是Barolo，但我們不想在此作產區 上的比較)，而整體而言則是款超出預期的佳 釀，使人樂於多喝幾杯。 嚐到Vinha Pan 2011，Luis把它與勃艮地的葡 萄酒相比，但並非比較其風格，而是其生產方 winetimeshk.com 9

“For me, I can’t make wine that I don’t like. It’s impossible. I make wines from my grapes, from my plants; plants that whose varietal I have chosen and who best fit the soils. This is what I have 35 years of experience for. For example, Baga is better on chalky/clay soil, Sercial is the same but Maria Gomez is better on sandy soil. This optimisation, to choose the best grapes for the best places is the most important thing”.

One thing that can be said about Luis Pato wines is that they are very friendly and approachable, a far cry from the heavy, tannic Dao wines that often frequent the shelves of Macau’s tourist shops that allure the wine tourist but disappoint on the palate. The wines show a certain ‘new world style’ to which Luis notes that “consumers are always looking for something new”.

“I do make wines that are suited to the consumer yes, but using my traditional varieties and in a way that I am happy with”, says Luis.

“For example, the Maria Gomez is very good with a lot of Asian food; but I can also make sweet or sparkling wines that are very good with Chinese or Thai food. We have such diversity in our wines, you can always find one kind of food to match with the wine – it doesn’t always have to be Portuguese food”.

Portuguese wines have come a long way from the times when Luis’ father was making wine in a more traditional style, mostly for the internal market in Portugal or for the wealth of British wine lovers who fell for Portuguese wines a generation or two ago.

“My father was a traditional viticultural farmer and when I studied Chemical Engineering he was rather surprised. But nowadays, I use less chemicals than he used – I have a different vision than him; but then people think differently now than they did back then”.

Tradition is still very much a part of Luis’ thought process although it’s plain to see that diversifying and innovating is essential for him to get the best from his terroir and, ultimately, his fruit that goes into making the wines. Luis is fully

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conscious that in order to make the wines he likes and to make wines that he thinks people who drink his wines like he will have to have a blend of traditional and new methods.

“I want to take traditional grapes and make them in a slightly more modern style”, Luis says. “The family has been in the wine business since the 18th century and it’s normal for us to not have oenology training as we can learn through tradition and through how our parents made wine”, Luis highlights, but notes; “I keep it classic, but I embrace innovation. This is what I tell my daughters; we must be innovative, we must be the first ones. If we are not criticised, it’s a bad thing”.

Three of our favourites (we didn’t try the sparkling wines but will do soon) were the Vinhos Velhas 2013 which was wonderfully aromatic white with a creamy mouth feel and a note of rhubarb and custard on the finish. “It’s like a blend of Chablis and Alsace”, says Luis. “But without Chardonnay and without Riesling!”

The Rebel 2010 – an iconic wine these days which highlights Luis outgoing personality on the label – is an easy drinking new world style Baga with a nice tannin structure and good fruit. It’s a food wine, but an easy drinking one; it’s almost like a Nebbiolo (some would say Barolo but we’d rather not make

regional comparisons) in structure and palate weight and is, overall, an exceptionally good wine and a joy to drink.

Finally we tried the Vinha Pan 2011 which Luis compares to a Burgundian wine, not so much in its style but in its production method.

Made from vines that only house three bunches each the wine is made to age. The problem you will find with this wine is that it drinks superbly now, so it may be struggle keeping it in your cellar – but Luis assures us that it truly is well worth the wait.

A man devoted to wine Luis Pato

most certainly is. If there is one legacy that Luis will leave behind it will be that of a man who spent his whole career trying to revolutionise the Portuguese wine industry.

Whether or not he does – or already has – only time will tell, but for now, he is certainly doing the right thing by Portuguese wines and we hope his passion and dedication to making great wines carries on for generations to come.

Luis Pato wines are available in Hong Kong from Adega Royale. For more information contact Grace Fung on grace@adegaroyale.com

式。釀造此酒的葡萄長自只有三枝分枝的葡萄 藤，而且適宜陳擺久釀。但問題就這樣衍生 了：現在享用這酒也很不錯，究竟要把它置在 酒櫃中，還是現在就喝？這真的令人很掙扎！ 不過，Luis向我們保證，這款紅酒一定值得我 們等待。 Luis Pato肯定是個專注於葡萄酒的人，如果 要數他能夠流芳今生的事，那便是他花了一輩 子的時間去革新葡萄牙的葡萄酒業。不管他能 否流芳今生也好，或許還是已經做到，只可以 留待時代的見證。但現在可以肯定的是，他為 葡萄牙葡萄酒的付出確是好事，而我們希望他 對葡萄酒的熱誠、專注可以延續至世世代代相 傳。 Luis Pato的葡萄酒於本港酒零售商Adega Royale有售，詳情可電郵到grace@adegaroyale.com與Grace Fung聯絡。

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Giro d'Italia Veneto Wine Lunch on every Saturday in September Sarde in saor con uvetta, pinoli e polenta bianca Sour sardines with sultana, pine nuts and white polenta Pairing Biancavigna, Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadine Extra Dry • • • ♦ • ♦ • • • Casiunsei con rape rosse, semi di papavero e ricotta salata Beetroot ravioli with poppy seeds and mature ricotta Pairing Ca'Rugate, Soave Classico Monte Fiorentine • • • ♦ • ♦ • • • Baccala' alla vicentina Stockfish with onions, capers and tomatoes Pairing Sodevo, Ribolla Gialla Venezia Giulia or Bollito di manzo con pere e radicchio fritto Poached beef briskets, pears sauce and fried radicchio Pairing Ca'Rugate, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico • • • ♦ • ♦ • • • Finta pesca all’alchermes Alchermes and pastry cream dessert Pairing Ca'Rugate, Recioto di Soave, La Perlara 4 Courses – HK$ 598 5 courses – HK$ 698 All prices are in HK$ and subject to 10% service charge

For booking, please call (852) 2681 2888

email:info@vignetteduvin.com

1. Brunello 1995-2007 Tasting with Ginsberg+Chan / 2. Vino and Pasta by the bay with Vignette du Vin

1. Opus One 2012 Vintage Tasting at Enoteca Central Shop / 2. Summer White Wine Tasting at Schmidt Vinothek / 3. Planeta Sicily Wine Dinner with East Meets West Wines

11th Tue

Raise the Steak Dominus Dinner with Ginsberg +Chan

New Champagne Tasting with Ginsberg +Chan

19th Wed

10th Mon 15th Sat

My Favourite Things Wine Lunch with Cottage Vineyards

27th Thu

6th Thu

Summer Fun BBQ with Schmidt Vinothek

14th Fri

5th Wed 1. Trinité Estate Acaibo ‘The Debut Winemaker Dinner’ with CCF / 2. Grace Vineyards Tasting at Enoteca Central Shop

Summer Red Wine Tasting at Schmidt Vinothek

26th Wed

20th Thu

Summer Red Wine Tasting with Schmidt Vinothek

13th Thu

12th Wed

JM Boillot Batard Montrachet Respective

Spanish Wine Tasting with Amorosso Wines

21st Fri

4th Tue

My Favourite Things Wine Dinner with Cottage Vineyards

Miss Manners Class and Tasting with Ginsberg+Chan

Raboutet Family Wine Dinner at Congress Plus

各品酒活動詳情 可瀏覽WTHK網站 www.winetimeshk. com/events

1.Australian Wine Dinner with Amorosso Wines / 2. Summer White Wine Tasting at Schmidt Vinothek

28th Fri

August's Wine Events

For the full information on all the above events visit our website www.winetimeshk. com/events

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THE WINE DOCTOR - Moscato; Something Sweet for Summer 酒博士專欄－Moscato

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ummer is well and truly upon us (I know this because I recently tried walking around Central in a suit) and the heat and humidity that comes with it is also brings the opportunity to taste and drink a different style of wine. Whilst on my travels around town in the sweltering heat over the last few weeks it struck me that what I really needed to beat the heat and quench my thirst was a nice refreshing glass of Moscato.

The majority of drinkers of Moscato are, undoubtedly women but this does not exclude men from partaking in the sweet goodness that comes in every bottle. Moscato is in fact only the Italian name for the drink that is lightly sparkling, low in alcohol, extremely addictive and comes from the Muscat family of grapes.

This family of grapes actually include hundreds of different varietals and while I won’t bore you with the extensive list of names that the grapes go by – there are over 200 varietals in the family - I will tell you that the most important varietals are Muscat Blanc (used in the production of Moscato d’Asti) and Muscat d’Alexandria (used in the production of vin doux naturel in France and in other sweet wines around the world from California to South Africa to Australia).

But why is Moscato such a great drink for the summer? Well, for starters it’s slightly sweet – some can be really very sweet – which makes a nice change from the bitterness of drinks such as beer or more acidic white

wines. It’s not sugary sweet however, so you can drink it throughout the afternoon and its low alcohol percentage (usually 5%) allows for drinkers to appreciate the wine in greater quantities that one could with other, more highly alcoholic wines.

The ubiquitous junk trips that take place over the summer months are not only a way to relax in the sunshine and forget about life in the city but also seem to give revellers carte blanche to start drinking early morning and continue this throughout the day and into the evening. This usually leaves even the most hardcore drinkers with ‘sea legs’ by the end of the day but should you be sipping Moscato throughout the day the effects of its lower alcohol on you will be lessened.

Moscato is a hugely aromatic wine that gives off floral aromas that are alluring in the glass. On the palate it is semi sweet or sweet and is refreshing with hints of ripened grapes, a touch of honey and a bouquet of white stone fruit dance around the mouth. Normally reserved for after dinner, it is the perfect drink for afternoon sipping in the sun.

I suggest this summer seeking out a good Italian Moscato – there are plenty around from retailers both in shops and online here in the city. Enjoy a touch of sweetness on your weekend afternoons while soaking up the summer sun at the beach or on the junk and I am sure that this is a wine that will make summer 2015 all the more memorable.

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陽的威力真的不能不佩服(穿着整套西裝 在中環走動時我便知道)，而夏天所帶來 的高溫和濕度可能會讓你想喝點不一樣的葡 萄酒。對我而言，消暑降溫的方法有許多， 其中一個便是喝一杯清新怡人的Moscato。 毫無疑問，喜歡喝Moscato的多數為女 性，但這不代表男士不可以嚐到瓶中的一點 甜。Moscato這個名稱本是個意大利文，意 指氣泡少而低酒精含量，並以Muscat葡萄家 族的葡萄所釀造的葡萄酒。 這葡萄家族中的成員品種很多，但我不想列 出整個沉悶而冗長的列表—足足有200個品 種。我只會向大家介紹一些最重要的品種， 包括Muscat Blanc(釀造出Moscato d’Asti) 和Muscat d’Alexandria(釀造出法國的vin doux naturel(天然甜酒)和其他產地從美國加 州到南非和澳洲的甜酒)。 為甚麼夏天特別適合喝Moscato？對入 門者而言，這酒的口味稍為帶甜，而部分 更是非常甜，相對帶苦味的啤酒或是酸度 較高的白酒，它是另一個討喜的選擇。然 而，Moscato的甜並非出自糖分的「死甜」 ，因此你可把它喝上一整個下午，而且其酒 精含量低(通常只有5%)，比起較高酒精含 量，可以提高喝的份量並慢慢品嚐。 夏天總是參與一個接一個的海上派對，因為 你可以好好享受陽光，暫時離開忙碌的城市 生活，還可以從早喝酒喝到晚！對於喝得較 多的人來說，在船上難免會腳步浮浮，不 過，如果你整天都在喝 Moscato的話，那你 可能會走得站得更穩吧。 Moscato的香氣四溢，杯中的花香甜味令人 難以抗拒，而味道則屬於半甜或甜，口味清 新帶熟透的葡萄果味，帶有一點蜜糖的甜， 以及許多白肉有核果的果味。人們通常在晚 飯後享用Moscato，在午後的陽光下享用同 樣寫意。 我建議讀者們找到一枝好的Moscato在夏天 享用—無論在香港的酒品零售店鋪或網購平 台都不乏選擇。就讓這點甜為我們在夏天的 陽光底下帶來更多好時光，製造更多愉快的 記憶！

(Christie Chan譯)

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Footprints of WTHK: A Tour of Italy Campania, Puglia, Calabria and Liguria

跟隨WTHK的足跡： 意大利之行－ Campania, Puglia, Calabria和Liguria產區 Text by Ali Nicol Photography: Ali Nicol & Camilla Conforti

譯文：Christie Chan 攝影：Ali Nicol & Camilla Conforti

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gain, this year the very kind people at Italia del Vino and Grandi Marchi sponsored a few of us Hong Kong wine writers to tour the splendour of Italy and as I, jet-lagged and bleary-eyed watch the sun in its entire resplendent orange blazoned glory rise above the houses of the beautiful city of Rome on the first of my six day trip around the vineyards and wineries of Calabria, Liguria, Campania and Puglia reality sets in and it’s time to taste a few wines!

Day One kicked off with seminars and wine tastings hosted where we learned more about the wineries that make up the two sponsoring consortium. Kicking off the mornings proceedings was Dean Lapthorne of Trento DOC’s Ferrari winery who talked about the wonderful sparkling wines they make there. Ferrari winery is a stunning place and having visited it last year, it’s easy to close your eyes and picture the Dolomites as you sip his excellent wines.

In fact, we tasted our way through 30 wines before lunch including some excellent wines from some very good friends; Anna Abbona of Marchesi de Barolo hosted a tasting of her Cannubi Barolo 2011, Carmen from Casa Vinicola Sartori showed off her Corte Bra Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2008, Ermes Scardova presented his

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Medici Ermete Concerto Lambrusco 2014 from Emilia Romagna to get things started; whilst afterwards Michael from Alois Lageder showed off his Porer Pinot Grigio 2013 from Alto Adige, Giorgio from Umani Ronchi presented his Cumaro Conero Riserva DOCG 2011 – the first tasting of this wine for Hong Kong people ever. Tancredi Biondi Santi then hosted us to taste the Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and there were also some excellent wines from Jermann, Mastroberadino, Donnafugata, Banfi, Gaja, Ca del Bosco and Pio Cesare.

Post-tasting we were airport bound headed south to Calabria where by morning we were soaking up the sun and the heat in the vineyards of Cantine Librandi. After being greeted by sons Paolo and Raffaele accompanied by father Nicodemo at the refurbished farmhouse that doubles as a reception centre, dining room and agricultural museum we dived into a chilled glass of Spumante before taking a tour of the museum and then heading for a rustic lunch in the museum paired together with a range of their fantastic regional wines.

After leaving the winery and a 3 hour drive later we made it to the town of Taranto which is near Bari and, although somewhat decrepit

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talia del Vino與Grandi Marchi再一次慷慨 地邀請香港的酒評人來到意大利，參觀酒莊 之餘更飽覽意大利的富麗堂皇。絢麗燦爛的橙 色渲染整個天空，映照着美麗的羅馬城市，而 受時差折磨、兩眼昏花的我隨即展開了這趟為 期六天旅程，準備參觀Calabria、Liguria、Campania及Puglia產區中不同的葡萄園及酒 莊，品嚐各酒莊釀造的佳釀。 在旅程的第一天，聽了主辦酒莊的介紹，嚐 過他們釀造的葡萄酒後，了解到更多有關 贊助機構的資訊。來自Ferrari酒莊的Dean Lapthorne先拔頭籌，為我們介紹這間位於 Trento DOC產區、釀造出不少美妙氣泡酒的 酒莊。我去年曾到訪那處，酒莊四周的壯麗景 色令我印象深刻，喝一口他們的酒，讓你輕閉 雙目就能想像到置身於Dolomites般。 光在午飯之前，我們已嚐到30款葡萄酒，當 中包括好朋友給我們嚐到的佳釀。Marchesi de Barolo酒莊的Anna Abbona主持了一個 試酒會，讓大家嚐到其酒莊的Cannubi Barolo 2011；Casa Vinicola Sartori酒莊的Carmen向我們展示了Corte Bra Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2008；而Ermes Scardova則介紹了產自Emilia Romagna產 區的Medici Ermete Concerto Lambrusco 2014。於同一個早上，Alois Lageder酒莊的 Michael讓我們嚐到他的Porer Pinot Grigio 2013，而Umani Ronchi酒莊的Giorgio也展 出其Cumaro Conero Riserva DOCG 2011 ，更是首次有香港人嚐到的葡萄酒。之後， 我們邊聽着Tancredi Biondi Santi的講解，邊 喝着他的Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2007，還有許多釀自Jermann、Mastroberadino、Donnafugata、Banfi、Gaja、Ca del Bosco以及Pio Cesare酒莊的優質 佳釀。

試酒會完結後，我們乘車到機場前往南部 的Calabria的Cantine Librandi酒莊，溫熱 的陽光把我們喚醒，正是遊走葡萄園的好時 機。Nicodemo和兩位兒子Paolo及Raffaele 接待我們到一間翻新過的農家小屋中，這裏除 了是接待中心外，同時也是餐室及農業博物 館。在好好參觀這個地方之前，我們當然先要 嚐嚐一杯冷凍的Spumante吧。我們在參觀過 後吃到一頓具鄉村風味的午飯，並配搭一系列 的由該酒莊當地釀造的美酒。 我們吃過喝過便繼續旅程，經過三小時的車程 後，我們到達毗鄰Bari的Taranto小鎮。雖然 在進入該小鎮的路上，看到已經倒閉的工廠， 讓人認為這是個破舊的小鎮，不過來到鎮內的 中心地帶，予人感覺較為具古色古香的漁村風 情，而且專營海鮮的餐廳及酒吧林立。我們在 此度過兩個晚上，在第三天的清晨便出發到 Puglia產區的Castello Monaci酒莊──在我曾 到訪過的酒莊當中坐擁最壯麗景色的酒莊之 一。 瑰麗奢華也形容不了這酒莊；與擁有該酒莊的 第四代家族成員Luigi Seracca Guerrieri、掌 管酒莊的主席及家族元老Vitantonio Seracca Guerrieri，以及釀酒師兼釀酒學家Leonardo Sergio打過招呼後，我們便在帶領下到酒窖 和酒莊各處參觀。在短於廿年的時間裏，Castello Monaci酒莊從20,000枝的葡萄酒產 量，躍升至今天的二百萬枝。酒莊由僧侶們於 1492年創立，但從前的貞潔、謙遜及服從性 已被今天的王族傳統所取代。 產自Puglia產區的葡萄酒很吸引人，原因在於 區內的風土，加上地勢平坦，高溫且陽光充 沛，使釀出來的葡萄酒比起較冷氣候地區的葡 萄酒更帶點甜，形成其極為容易入喉而合眾人 口味的特質。在如斯美景下喝着這樣的美酒， 以及參觀附近的雄偉古堡，構成了這趟旅程最 難忘的部分回憶。 在回到Taranto小鎮途中，我們停車到了由 Zonin集團擁有的Masseria Altemura酒莊。 我喜歡懂得「玩」的釀酒師，而Antonio Cavallo必定是其中一個──你會想與他夜夜笙 歌！參觀過酒窖後，晚餐時間不僅只有美食的 份兒，我們還喝上一枝又一枝的葡萄酒，多得 難以清算！在回程的90分鐘內，巴士車廂內 的氣氛頗為寧靜，因為不少人在車上經已倒頭 大睡了！ 太陽初升，我們出發前往Campania Montefusco的Terredora酒莊。這酒莊成立於1994 年，當時Walter帶着兒子Lucio、Paolo和 女兒Daniela另起爐灶，從家族經營的Mastroberardino酒莊走出來成立了Terredora酒 莊，藉以重新復興當地的原生葡萄品種，包括 Aglianico、Fiano、Falanghina和Greco di Tufo葡萄。 Daniela負責接待我們到他們家小巧有致的酒 莊，她整天都把笑容掛在臉上，是個百分百典 winetimeshk.com 21

型的意大利女人，而且比起旅程中遇到的其他 意大利人，她的口音算是最易聽得懂的了。好 客的她也當上我們的導遊，帶領我們參觀酒莊 和超冷的酒窖，然後再慢慢品嚐Campania產 區的美酒──相信許多香港人對其釀造葡萄酒 的品種聞所未聞，更不用說是否曾經嚐過。嚐 過一系列的美酒佳釀，以及在下午踏足過酒莊 的葡萄園後，我們便繼續路程前往Naples待 上一夜。 來到旅程倒數第二天，我們乘車往北經Florence到Liguria和Cantine Lunae，嚐到我認 為是此行中最佳的葡萄酒。Liguria是著名生 產白酒的地區，而Cantine Lunae則以Vermentino葡萄釀造的白酒聞名。身為一個喜愛 白酒多於紅酒的愛酒者，我簡直置身於天堂中 品嚐到甘露──這些葡萄酒美得使我銀包裏的 鈔票全都進了其店鋪的收銀機裏！雖然我不願 離天堂而去，但我們行程中預留了時間到酒莊 附近的水療中心舒展一番，於是帶着醉的腳步 到達那處，在泳池中享受在意大利最後一夜的 日光餘暉。 當我醒來知道旅程來到尾聲，依依不捨地出發 前往米蘭參加2015年世界博覽會。米蘭世博 的場地大得難以形容，能夠親身到場感受實在 令我感到興奮，各個展館分別展示世界各地的 飲食文化及生活方式，讓與會者能在多個文化 中交流薈萃。場地佔地廣，展館多元化而令人 感興趣，需要多於一星期的時間才能把每個展 with run down factories as you enter the town, the centre is a rather quaint, fishing village-esque place with plenty of seafood restaurants and a plethora of wine bars to choose to have a drink in. We were to spend two nights here and the dawn of day three saw the group heading off to Puglia and to one of the most stunning wineries I have ever visited – Castello Monaci.

Opulent is an understatement and we were greeted by 4th generation proprietor Luigi Seracca Guerrieri, winemaker and oenologist Leonardo Sergio and president and patriarch Vitantonio Seracca Guerrieri which was followed by a guided tour of the winery and cellars. Less than 20 years ago Castello Monaci made just 20,000 bottles but these days their expansion allows for a production of approximately 2 million bottles.

The castle was founded by monks in 1492 but what stands there today is more fit for royalty rather than those that practice chastity, humility and obedience.

The wines of Puglia are very appealing due to the terroir

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of the region and the hot, flat topography and high levels of sunshine which gives the wines a little more sweetness than wines from cooler climates which make them extremely easy drinking and very approachable and it must be said that the wines of Castello Monaci, together with the stunning scenery and tour of the grandiose castle made for one of the most memorable parts of the trip.

On the way back to Taranto we stopped off at the Zonin-owned Masseria Altemura. I love a winemaker who knows how to have fun and winemaker Antonio Cavallo is most certainly one that does; the kind of guy that you want to go out drinking all night with! After a tour of the cellars we sat down for a wonderful dinner and a whole lot of wine! Suffice to say the bus trip back to the hotel that night was a rather quiet one with many of the troupe nodding off during the 90 minute journey!

Morning saw us head to Campania and to the Terredora winery in Montefusco. Terredora was set up

in 1994 when the Mastroberardino family split up and father Walter and his sons Lucio and Paolo along with daughter Daniela left the original Mastroberardino winery and founded Terredora further south with a view to reviving the indigenous grapes of the region – Aglianico, Fiano, Falanghina and Greco di Tufo.

Upon entering the small, compact family winery we were greeted by the effervescent Daniela who is your quintessential typical Italian lady – larger than life with a permanent smile on her face and an accent that could possibly be the most pronounced accent we heard during the whole trip so far.

Most hospitable she was and after a lovely tour of the winery and their exceptionally cold cellars we headed to taste some of the wines that are so proudly Campania and are made from grape varietals that most in Hong Kong will not have heard of – let alone tried – before. A great selection of wines was served and, after a tour of the vineyards in the afternoon we were back on the road and this time heading to Naples for the night.

The penultimate day of the trip saw us head north to Liguria via Florence and to Cantine Lunae where, for me anyway, the best wines of the trip were served and tasted. Liguria is best known for its white wines and Cantine Lunae for its whites made from the Vermentino grape.

Being more of a white wine lover than a red wine lover, I was as close to oenological bliss as I ever have been tasting their outstanding whites – wines that were so good that most of my budget disappeared into the cash registers of their wine shop! Although hesitant to leave, we were due to check in to a spa near the winery so, somewhat inebriated we checked in and headed straight for the pool to soak up the last vestiges of sunshine on our final night in Italy.

to describe in words just how big the place is. Pavilions from pretty much every country in the world show off food, lifestyle and drinks; the culture of each destination.

They’re huge, interesting and diverse and it would take more than a week to be able to visit each and every one in its entirety.

Luckily my partner in crime had been there before so we headed to Brasil for what turned out to be one of the most eclectic post-wine lunch walks on a floor that basically left you unable to walk for minutes afterwards; followed up by a scenic trip to Bahrain, a lush courtyard of almost all the tropical fruit trees you can think of. Strange, but mindblowingly interesting! Sadly then it was off to Malpensa Airport and with just enough time for a couple of glasses of sparkling Ferrari Perle 2008 I was back on the plane and Hong Kong bound once more.

Did I have a great time? Sure! Did I make some great new friends? Hell yes! Taste some great wines? A lot of the time! Do I want to move to Italy and live the Italian lifestyle?

Sure, I had just better start making some money!! Anyway, a big thank you to Faye and Camilla, without whom this trip would have not been possible and without whom I would have no great memories and at least one or two great friends for life less.

幸好，我的「老死」早已在米蘭世博先睹為 快，在他的資訊下我們在吃過一頓不拘一格的 葡萄酒午餐後來到巴西館，走在路上的頭數分 鐘可謂舉步維艱！我們展開到Bahrain之旅── 一個種滿熱帶果樹的綠色後花園。有點古怪， 但卻令人嘆為觀止！歡樂的時光過得特別快， 轉眼便要啟程前往Malpensa機場踏上歸途， 在喝過兩、三杯Ferrari Perle 2008氣泡酒後， 我便上機再轉機回到香港。 問我這趟旅程愉快嗎？當然！問我認識到新朋 友嗎？那還用說！嚐到美酒佳釀嗎？許多！那 我想到意大利定居，過着意大利人的生活嗎？ 當然想，只是我需要先賺到一筆錢！不管如 何，還是要感謝Faye和Camilla，要不是她們 的話，這次的葡萄酒之旅根本不成行，而我也 不會有這麼美好的回憶以及認識到一、兩位摯 友。

Waking up on the last day of a trip knowing you are heading home is always somewhat depressing but we were off to Milan for a few hours to go to Expo 2015 Milano. Arriving at the Expo brought new-found excitement and in fact it is so hard

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Winemaker Chat – Matt Dees of Jonata

釀酒師訪問：Jonata酒莊的Matt Dees Text by Ali Nicol

譯文：Christie Chan Images 圖像: Jonata

“Since Jonata’s debut releases a few years ago, this has been one of the most impressive newcomers in the Santa Barbara region”; Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate 2010.

M

att Dees is the winemaker at Santa Ynez winery Jonata which is best known for being the little brother of “California First Growth” Screaming Eagle. Since 2004, Matt has been crafting world class wines from the 600 acres they own making California wines with finesse rather than bravado; a wine style that bucks the trend of making big, fat, full bodied wines in California.

With Matt behind the label, he brings experience from vintages at Staglin in Napa and Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand as well as a degree in Soil Science from University of Vermont. Although he doesn’t have a degree in oenology, it’s soils that excite him most and the soils of Jonata were almost not to be with one well known agronomist telling the group before they planted their vines that the soils were really “only good for asparagus”.

It did not take long for it to become clear that the decision to plant Syrah, Sangiovese and Bordeaux varietals was the right one and a dedication by both founder Stan Kroenke and Matt himself found the wines being heralded by some of the most revered wine critics in the world; the likes of Robert Parker, Antonio Galloni and Stephen Tanzer included in said list.

Most of Matt’s wines are in small, limited production and the majority of the wines are sold to their

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mailing list in the US. Luckily, here in Hong Kong we have an allocation of many of them and they are available through One Red Dot Fine Wines; who also hosted Matt in Hong Kong recently so we took the chance to grab a coffee with him in the Conrad hotel and find out more about what makes the man himself tick.

Wines from Jonata are available in Hong Kong from One Red Dot Fine Wines – for more information please contact Anne-Sophie Roposte by email on anne-sophie.roposte@ onereddot.com

「自Jonata酒莊的葡萄酒幾年前首 次推出市面，立即成為其中一個位 於Santa Barbara產區令人印象深刻 的新酒莊。」—Robert Parker，載 於2010年的《The Wine Advocate 2010》

M

att Dees是位於Santa Ynez山谷Jonata 酒莊的釀酒師，此酒莊的名氣來自它的 「哥哥」—加州第一個酒莊Screaming Eagle。從2004年開始，Matt在其佔600英畝的 土地上釀造出世界級的葡萄酒，以務實多於冒 險的態度重新打造加州的葡萄酒—有別於一 般厚身、雄渾的加州葡萄酒。 作為Jonata酒莊的軍師，Matt具備十足的資 歷，他曾於Napa產區的Staglin酒莊及紐西 蘭Hawkes Bay產區的Craggy Range酒莊工 作，更於美國佛蒙特大學(University of Vermont)的土壤科學科取得學位。雖然他並非畢 業於釀酒學，但他對土壤學最感興趣，而Jonata酒莊的土壤更是個挑戰—一個知名的農 學家曾形容這地「只適合種植露筍」。 後來，酒莊決定種植Syrah和Sangiovese等波 爾多葡萄品種，不用多久，酒莊釀造出來的葡 萄酒便獲得來自部分最受人尊崇的酒評人的好 評，當中包括Robert Parker、Antonio Galloni和Stephen Tanzer，證明了創辦人Stan Kroenke和Matt的決定是正確的。大部分由 Matt釀造的葡萄酒均以小規模的方式生產， 產量供應有限，主要郵寄予在美國的訂單。幸 而我們在香港也可以經酒零售商One Red Dot Fine Wines購得這些佳釀，而且他們最近邀請 到Matt到訪香港，我們趁機邀他與之訪談， 到港麗大酒店的咖啡廳聊聊他的釀酒理念。 Jonata酒莊的葡萄酒於本港酒零售商One Red Dot Fine Wines有售，詳情可電郵到 anne-sophie.roposte@onereddot.com

WTHK: WTHK: How did you become a winemaker? 你是如何成為一位釀酒師的？

Interview Time 訪談時間

MD: Well, I grew up in Kansas City; which is no fine wine growing Mecca! I was always the kid playing baseball where the ball would fly over my head because I was always picking up bugs! I’ve been a soil geek since the day I was born! I then went to university in Vermont which is about as far as from good terrior as you can get! When you start making wine in a region like that, you have to do it for the love of the process and love of the product. From about age 18 or 19 I started making wine – so before I was legally allowed to drink!

MD：我在美國Kansas City長大，一個沒有優質葡萄 酒生產的地方！小時候的我在打棒球時，總會讓球在 頭頂上飛過而接不住它，因為我在忙着把煩人的蟲子趕 走！而我一出生就注定是個「土壤迷」！之後我便到了 Vermont州的大學讀書，地理位置與優良風土的所在地 距離甚遠呢！當你在如此的一個區域釀造葡萄酒，你需 要先愛上整個過程，也要對葡萄酒抱有熱愛。我在大約 18、19歲時開始涉獵釀酒，當時還未到達喝酒的合法 年齡呢！ WTHK: So how did you end up in California? 為甚麼最後在加州落腳？ MD: One day I looked up and said ‘what and I doing here?

I need to be somewhere called California!’ I moved to Australia to study but realised that winemaking isn’t something you learn at school – I am much more hands on and like to chart my own path. I tasted a wine when I was back in New York – Staglin Family Vineyard 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon. They made the mistake of putting their phone number on the back of the bottle so I called them repeatedly and said “hey I’d like to come out and interview for a job”. They laughed and said ‘we have no job’ and I said ‘well I already have my ticket’ – so I showed up the next day! They gave me a job in the vineyard!

MD：有一天我問自己：「我在做甚麼呢？我要到一個 叫做加州的地方！」我移居到澳洲學習釀酒，發現釀酒 並非能在學校裏學到的知識；我更想憑着自己的雙腳， 走出自己的路。我人在紐約時，曾嚐到一款葡萄酒— Staglin Family Vineyard 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon。 酒莊作了一個不明智的決定，在瓶身背面的酒標印有酒 莊的電話號碼—我重重複複致電到酒莊說：「我想來到 你們的酒莊面試找工作。」接電話的人發出笑聲，向我 說：「我們沒有工作提供給你」，然而我說：「我已經 訂了機票」；於是隔天我便來到了酒莊！他們讓我在其 葡萄園裏工作！

WTHK: And then you joined Jonata in ’04 and been there since? 你之後在2004年加入了Jonata酒莊，一直在此工作嗎？ MD: Yeah, I joined Jonata in 2004 and have grown with the vineyards and came on board to make the first wines. On the property we now grow 11 varietals and we also have Pinot Noir and Chardonnay off the property. It’s such a blessing – at Jonata, we really just focus and concentrate on what really matters; making a wine that shows where it’s from and where it’s grown.

MD：是的，我在2004年加入了Jonata酒莊，在其葡 萄園種植葡萄，並釀造出首批葡萄酒。現時我們在酒 莊內種植11種葡萄，而不在酒莊範圍內也有種植Pinot Noir及Chardonnay。這是個祝福—在Jonata酒莊， 我們真的只專注集中於重要的事上，釀造出能夠反映 產區風土的葡萄酒。 WTHK: Do you have a favourite grape varietal to work with? 在你的釀酒生涯中，你有一款最喜愛的葡萄品種嗎？ MD: For me, nothing comes close to Cabernet Franc. It’s a bear; it’s an absolute bear! I mean I love it; and in retrospect I hate it! It’s awful – it tastes terrible in the vineyard!

It’s like a wrestling match; I mean it grows well, it doesn’t get rot and it’s a pretty tough grape – but the ripening; I find that so fascinating. It has a tiny ripening window so you have to get it right. If you get it wrong, it’s like jalapeno juice or prune juice – but if you get it right it’s like lavender and pencil shavings which are very true in the wine.

MD：對我而言，沒有一種能與Cabernet Franc相比 的葡萄。它是一隻熊，絕對是一隻熊！我的意思是我 愛這個葡萄品種；回顧起來我卻討厭它！在葡萄園 中嚐到它，其口味差極了！就像是個摔角比賽般； 我的意思是這種葡萄能好好生長，不會腐壞而生命 力強—但在葡萄果成熟時，我感受到當中的奧妙。其 葡萄果成熟時期短暫，因此你需要在適當時機收成， 如果收成時機選擇錯誤，那麼它便會像墨西哥辣椒 ( jalapeno)或洋梅(prune)的果汁—不過當選擇了適當 的時機收成，它便會像薰衣草及鉛筆屑一樣。 winetimeshk.com 25

AIS Launches Sommelier Program in Hong Kong

I

意大利侍酒師協會(AIS)課程現正招生 大利侍酒師協會(Associazione Italiana Som意 melier；AIS)是一個於1965年7月7日在米蘭 成立的非牟利機構，並在1973年4月6日正式得到意

talian Sommelier Association, ‘AIS’ (Associazione Italiana Sommelier) is an Italian non-profit organization founded in Milan on July 7th 1965, officially recognized and legally acknowledged by the Italian government on April 6th 1973. The Italian Sommelier Association is part and founding member of the Worldwide Sommelier Association (WSA) and is one of the oldest and the largest sommelier association in the world, featuring more than 30,000 members in Italy alone. One aim of the Italian Sommelier Association is to qualify the sommelier’s role and profession, therefore adding value to wine, traditional specialties and gastronomy culture. Its aim is also to promote the introduction of its didactic approach in hospitality related schools, as well as to endorse the sommelier’s professional role, international recognition and esteem.

With the increase in popularity of Italian culture in the city especially in the wine industry, Hong Kong’s largest Italian wine supplier Italy Small Vineyards will soon be offering courses from AIS – The Italian Sommelier Association – to interested members of the trade and public starting at the end of February in an intense course based over 6 weeks that will result in the attaining of the AIS Level 1 certificate. This course focuses on Wine Production Knowledge and Wine Tasting Technique and takes approximately 45 hours of classes split into 10 classes with 2-hour duration and 5 full-day intensive classes.

The course itself focuses on the need for wine expertise, professionalism and enthusiasm. Students will learn this through wine knowledge and tasting skills making them fully prepared for a professional wine tasting and food pairing as a sommelier. More specifically, students will explore five key areas: proper wine appreciation and tasting skills, wine growing and making and the skills involved in such, grape varieties, the international and regional wine world and food and wine pairing. The completion and passing of the course means that students will receive the Certificate of Sommelier and be able to have the title “Sommelier”. AIS exclusively teaches a three-level certified sommelier course which leads to the achievement of an AIS Professional Sommelier Diploma.

AIS Sommelier programs are available from Italy Small Vineyards in Hong Kong. For more information contact Marco Bianchi on aishongkong@italysmallvineyards.com

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大利政府的認可，而協會也是創立全球侍酒師協會 (Worldwide Sommelier Association；WSA)的成 員之一。AIS是全世界歷史最悠久及規模最大的侍酒 師協會之一，僅在意大利便有30,000名會員。協會 的其中一個目的是為了認可侍酒師的專業資格，為葡 萄酒、傳統的專業及美食文化增值；也為了在服務性 行業相關的學校推廣專業訓練，加強侍酒師的專業水 平，以致得到國際認可及尊重。 隨着意大利文化在香港愈來愈流行，尤其在與酒相關 的行業，全港最大的意大利葡萄酒供應商Italy Small Vineyards現正為有興趣的業內或公眾人士，提供意 大利侍酒師協會(AIS)的課程。報讀人士修讀為期六 星期的課程後，即取得AIS Level 1的認可資格，而 這課程重點為葡萄酒生產的學問(Wine Production Knowledge)和品酒技巧(Wine Tasting Technique)， 上課總時數為45小時，分別由10節為時兩小時的課 堂及5天全日的密集課堂組成。 而AIS課程的重點在於葡萄酒的專門、專業，以及對 葡萄酒的熱誠，透過學習葡萄酒知識和品酒技巧，報 讀人士可以全面裝備成為提供專業品酒及美食配搭意 見的侍酒師；具體而言，他們可從五個領域探索相關 知識，包括正規的葡萄酒賞析、品酒技巧、葡萄種 植、釀酒學(例如有關葡萄品種、地區性或國際性葡 萄酒等知識)，以及美食與葡萄酒的配搭學問。完成 整個課程而取得合格成績之學員，將獲得侍酒師的 專業資格(Certificate of Sommelier)，正式取得侍酒 師的頭銜。此外，AIS也提供分三個等級的侍酒師課 程，學員修畢課程後可取得AIS專業侍酒師的文憑證 書(AIS Professional Sommelier Diploma)。 Italy Small Vineyards現正於本港提供AIS的相關課 程，詳情請電郵到aishongkong@italysmallvineyards.com與Marco Bianchi聯絡。

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TOP 10

Beach Bars

十大沙灘酒吧 Bistro One (Club One)

16 Beach Road, Repulse Bay +852 8209 9822 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 12nn-10pm

“Spacious!” 「寬敞舒適！」

Repulse Bay 淺水灣

Limewood Shop 103/104 The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay +852 2866 8668 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 12nn-11:30pm/ Fridays & Saturdays till midnight

“Cocktail paradise!” 「雞尾酒天堂！」

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Top 10 Beach Bars

Beach Club 鬼佬小廚 Stanley Main Beach, Stanley +852 5118 4294 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 10am-10pm

“Beach view from above!” 「居高臨下的沙灘景！」

Stanley Main Beach 赤柱正灘

Shek O 石澳

Cococabana G/F Shek O Beach Building, Shek O Beach +852 2812 1826 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 12nn-11pm

“Nice hang out lunch!” 「吃頓悠閒午餐！」

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十大沙灘酒吧

Windsurfing Centre & Outdoor Cafe 長洲滑浪風帆中心露天茶座

1 Hak Pai Rd, Cheung Chau +852 2981 8316 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 10am-6pm; Closed on Wednesday

“Hidden secret place!” 「隱密諧和！」

Koon Yam Wan, Cheung Chau 長洲觀音灣

Concerto Inn Palm Tree Pigeon & Seafood Cafe 浪濤軒

28 Hung Shing Ye Beach, Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island +852 2982 1668 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 8am-10pm

“Green garden & beach view all in one!”

「集後花園和沙灘景色於一身！」

Hung Shing Ye Beach, Lamma Island 南丫島洪聖爺灣

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Top 10 Beach Bars

Lantana 40 Cheung Sha Lower Village, Lantau Island +852 5465 5511 Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday 11am-9pm/ Fridays & Saturdays 11am-10pm

“Top place for families and kids!” 「最適合一家大小！」

Cheung Sha Beach, Lantau Island 大嶼山長沙海灘

Mavericks Pui O Beach, Lantau Island +852 5662 8552 Opening hours: Fridays 5pm-11:30pm/ Saturdays, Sundays & Public holidays 11am-11:30pm

“Good vibes! A hub for surfers & skaters!”

「氣氛一流！滑浪及滑板愛好者的聚腳地！」

Pui O Beach, Lantau Island

大嶼山貝澳海灘

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十大沙灘酒吧

Silvermine Bay Beach, Lantau Island 大嶼山銀礦灣海灘

Silvermine Beach Resort

Blue Horizon Café

銀鑛灣渡假酒店 海天一色 Silvermine Beach Hotel, Silvermine Bay, Mui Wo, Lantau Island +852 2984 6863 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 7am-12am

“Quiet place for a drink and a book!” 「寧靜地享受一杯酒和一本好書！」

The Faith Casual Dining & Seafood Oyster Bar Golden Beach, 18.5 Miles, Castle Peak Road, Tuen Mun +852 2451 2099 Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 11:30am-1am

“Rare in the New Territories!”

「新界罕有之選！」

Golden Beach, Tuen Mun 屯門黃金泳灘

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Editor’s Review:

Penfolds RWT & Cocktails by Charles Joly at aqua

小編點評：Penfolds RWT及Charles Joly獨家調製的夏日雞尾酒 Text & Photography by Christie Chan

撰文、攝影：Christie Chan

Images 圖像：Penfolds、aqua

P

enfolds首席釀酒師Peter Gago於7月9日在 香港麗斯卡爾頓酒店，主持了首場Penfolds RWT Barossa Shiraz的垂直品酒會，而我代表 WTHK參與了這場品酒會，一次過嚐到了整個 RWT系列從1997年至2012年共16個年份的佳 釀。 RWT是「Red Winemaking Trial」的簡稱，原 本為一個Penfolds於1995年進行的實驗項目， 但自2000年推出了1997年份的RWT紅酒，這個 系列不再只是個「實驗」，而是廣受飲者喜愛 的Penfolds葡萄酒系列之一，因此這個名稱亦 一直源用至今。RWT系列是高質澳洲葡萄酒的 示範，Peter亦向我們指出，其葡萄園裏的老葡 萄藤均以人手採摘，從而避免過度採摘葡萄。

P

enfolds Chief Winemaker Peter Gago hosted the first-ever full vertical tasting of Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz at The Ritz Carlton on July 9 and I was invited on behalf of WTHK to this exclusive tasting which featured the entire RWT collection of 16 vintages from the 1997 inaugural release through to the 2012 vintage.

The initials RWT stand for ‘Red Winemaking Trial’ which was a project that Penfolds began to work on in 1995, but obviously it’s no longer a trial project once the 1997 vintage was released in May 2000; the collection soon gained popularity with drinkers all over the world. The RWT collection is a fine example of Australian Shiraz and Peter pointed out that they always handpick the old vines to prevent over-extracting, showing the delicacy in making these wines.

Tasting 16 vintages from 1997 to 2012, I preferred the odds – in terms of numbers; the 2001 vintage and 2009 vintage. Our frequent readers may know that I’m a girl

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that prefers drinks over food and that’s what I like about the 2001 vintage – can be drunk alone without food. It has the aromas of dark fruits and smooth tannins with a medium length; it allows you to think about what you’ve drunk.

But it’s still good with simple small food like cheese and baguette so maybe this pairing would be nice for a sleepless night when you want something to cheer you up and lead you into sweet dreams.

I still remember my thought about the first sip of Shiraz in my life when I was a 19-year-old with almost zero knowledge about wines: “It’s so fruity…girls would like it but it’s too fruity for me.” The taste of the 2009 vintage reminds me of this piece of memory as it is a 100% typical Australian Shiraz – distinctively fruity, easy-drinking and full bodied.

The fruit, tannins and acidity reaches a good balance and it’s versatile without or with any kind of food. Though personally I don’t prefer drinking fruity wines but this one is just too classic to dislike and forget.

從1997年一直到2012年，我總共嚐到了16 個年份的紅酒，所喜愛的年份恰巧也是單數 的：2001年和2009年。WTHK的忠實讀者可能 會記得，我是個愛喝多於吃的人，而這也是為 何我喜歡2001年份的原因—可以「淨飲」。這 酒帶有黑果香氣和順滑的單寧，其中長度的餘 韻會讓我思考一番所喝下的一口紅酒。不過， 將此酒配上小吃也很不錯；我想，如果在一個 失眠的晚上，吃上一點芝士與法包，再喝上一 杯這樣的紅酒，我的心情該會變得輕鬆，令我 更容易進入夢鄉吧。 我還記得第一次喝到Shiraz紅酒的時候，當時 我只有19歲，對葡萄酒認識不多，心想：「果 味很重…女生應該會很喜歡這種紅酒，但對我來 說，它太重果味了。」嚐了一口RWT的2009年 份便讓我喚起了這段記憶，因為它是款非常經 典的澳洲Shiraz紅酒—鮮明的重果味、容易入 喉的特質以及酒體較為厚身。酒中的果味、單 寧以及酸度巧妙地混在一起，恰到好處，而且 配搭美食與否也可。雖然個人來說我偏向不喝 果味重的紅酒，但這一款Shiraz紅酒實在經典得 讓人無法不喜歡或忘記。 —— qua餐飲集團與全球最大型的國際調酒比 賽World Class™合作，邀來2014 World Class™年度最佳調酒師Charles Joly特調別具 夏日風情的特色雞尾酒，獨家於香港及倫敦的 aqua在7月6日至8月31日期間限定供應。我受

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qua Restaurant Group partnered with the champion of worldwide bartending competition 2014 WORLD CLASS™, Charles Joly, introducing drinkers a series of summery cocktails exclusively at aqua in Hong Kong and London from July 6 to August 31. I was invited to the cocktail tasting held on July 7 at aqua in Tsim Sha Tsui which Charles Joly himself made the five cocktails for guests, shown in the image accordingly from left to right Biarritz, South Pacific, Ocean Drive, The Provençal and The Garden of England.

What interests me most in these cocktails is they are made with Cîroc vodka which is derived from grapes. This is something totally new for me as I never knew vodka can be made from grapes!

Among the five cocktails, Ocean Drive and The Garden of England are my top picks simply because they really taste like summer and stand out under the theme. Mixed with Cîroc vodka, Sauternes, champagne vinegar, white grapes and carbonated water, Ocean Drive is a frizzy drink with both sweetness and sourness that you’d like to drink in the happy hours right before dinner as aperitif. Read again what’s in the drink and you will find out it’s literally full of grapes. How can I not love it? No way!

My other top drink is The Garden of England which is a mix of homemade thyme liqueur, Yuzu and Cîroc vodka with fresh rosemary as garnish. All these ingredients make it extremely fresh and delightful for

summer no matter in the daytime or at on a night out. Drinks with fresh herbs are always aromatically alluring so the name of this drink speaks for itself as if you are in a garden drinking it.

Summer in Hong Kong is not always sunny and if the typhoon and rain upset you, why not get back your summery good mood by having one of these drinks? Aqua, Armani/Aqua and Armani/Privé in Hong Kong will be serving this series of cocktails until August 31. For more details, please visit www.aqua.com.hk or call 3427 2288.

到邀請於7月7日到位於尖沙咀的aqua，嚐到 由Charles Joly親自調製的五款雞尾酒，包括 Biarritz、South Pacific、Ocean Drive、The Provençal以及The Garden of England。 最令我感到有趣的是，這五款雞尾酒均以Cîroc 伏特加調製，而Cîroc伏特加是從葡萄來提煉 釀造的。這對我而言是新的知識，我並不知道 原來伏特加可以葡萄釀造出來的！而在這五 款雞尾酒當中，我最喜歡Ocean Drive和The Garden of England，因為兩款均絕對切合主 題，真的能讓你嚐到夏天的味道。Ocean Drive 混合了Cîroc伏特、Sauternes甜酒、陳年香檳 醋及白葡萄汁，並加入二氧化碳，是杯酸酸甜 甜的有氣雞尾酒，最適合於歡樂時光時當作晚 飯前的開胃酒享用。再仔細看看這款雞尾酒的 成分，你會發現所喝到的整杯都由葡萄釀造， 因此我又怎能不愛上它呢？ 我的另一款「醉愛」The Garden of England 由自家製百里香甜酒、柚子和Cîroc伏特加調 配而成，再以沾有蕁麻酒的新鮮迷迭香作為裝 飾。這款雞尾酒中的所有成分使它口味極為清 新，不論日與夜也可喝上一、兩杯這樣的夏日 特飲。任何含有新鮮香草的雞尾酒，都會散發 着吸引人的清新香氣，而這款雞尾酒也「酒如 其名」，使你在喝它時猶如身處於一個小花園 一樣。 香港的夏天並非時常陽光普照，風光明媚，如 果颱風暴雨令你心情變壞，何不嚐嚐這個系列 的雞尾酒，找口屬於夏日的好心情？香港的 aqua、Armani/Aqua及Armani/Privé將會供應 這些雞尾酒至8月31日，詳情請瀏覽www.aqua. com.hk或致電3427 2288查詢。 winetimeshk.com 37

NZ Sauvignon Blanc shortage: Is the sky really falling? 紐西蘭Sauvignon Blanc短缺：這是大事件嗎？ Simone Madden-Grey Guest Columnist

Simone, aka the Happy Wine Woman, is originally from New Zealand and is passionate about introducing people to (and drinking) NZ and Australian wines. Read more at www. happywinewoman.com

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ecent reports in the press suggest a shortage of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc may be imminent due to the comparatively small 2015 harvest and while quality has been assessed as very good, quantity is down from the previous year.

So should the dedicated Sauvignon Blanc drinker be stockpiling bottles in preparation for a looming shortage?

To put things in perspective, 2014 was a record vintage so the decrease in 2015 is perhaps not as extreme as it appears; rather it brings harvest volumes in to line with previous years. While the 2015 Sauvignon Blanc harvest was down 30% at 216,000 tonnes, compared with 310,240 tonnes in 2014, the 2014 harvest was a bumper crop.

It represented a jump of more than

30% from the previous year of 2013.

Thus, in context, the differential between the more consistent Sauvignon Blanc harvests of 2013 and 2015 is only 6%.

Nevertheless the current situation combined with the growth of New Zealand as a quality wine-producing nation provides an ideal time to explore what else New Zealand has to offer for the Sauvignon Blanc drinker. While bulk production may face challenges in meeting supply for the coming year many smaller producers I spoke with indicated they have sufficient stocks and do not expect difficulty in meeting demand.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has come a long way since the first expressions in the 1980’s with Cloudy Bay blazing the trail that put New Zealand wine firmly on the

Text by Simone Madden-Grey 譯文：Christie Chan

Images 圖像：Kevin Judd、 Pegasus Bay Winery

最

近有報道指紐西蘭Sauvignon Blanc白 酒即將面臨短缺，起因於這種葡萄在 2015年的收成相對去年較少，不過葡萄質量 卻獲好評。那麼，鍾情於Sauvignon Blanc的 飲者應該囤貨，從而在短缺來到之前作好準備 嗎？ 從另一個角度來看，2014年是個破紀錄的年 份，因此2015年的收成下降或許並未如想像 中極端，反而與過去幾年的產量相約。Sauvignon Blanc於2015年的收成較去年下降 30%至216,000噸，相對於2014年的310,240 噸，2014年是大豐收的一年，比2013年的產 量上升超過30%。由是觀之，以Sauvignon Blanc的恆常產量而言，2013年與2015年的 收成差別只有6%。 然而，上述情況加上紐西蘭作為葡萄酒出產國 的增長，現在正是探視紐西蘭的好時機，看 看這國還可供應怎麼樣的葡萄酒予Sauvignon Blanc的飲者。當大型生產商可能面對葡萄收 成減少的挑戰同時，有小型生產商則向我指 出，他們未有預期遇到產量供應低於市場需求 的困難。 80年代紐西蘭Cloudy Bay地區出產的Sauvignon Blanc聲名大噪，更令紐西蘭穩佔葡 萄酒世界的一席位，自此紐西蘭Sauvignon Blanc幾經變卦。市場上廉價的選擇多不勝 數，但亦有更多優質美酒被推出市場，與 Sauvignon Blanc葡萄失收似乎「打個和」。 生產商採用lees contact、lees stirring、barrel and bottle ageing技術，為紐西蘭Sauvignon Blanc創建了新的風格。 平常Marlborough產區的「Savvy」(非常愛 喝Sauvignon Blanc的飲者會稱之為Savvy)可 能會較難找到，也許是時候嚐嚐同一產區較小 型的生產商的葡萄酒，例如曾於Cloudy Bay 酒莊工作的Kevin Judd，現建立了自己的葡 萄酒品牌Greywacke，還有主理Mahi Wines 酒莊的Brian Bicknell，以及Ara Wines酒莊的

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international map. While there are a variety of lower priced examples on the market there is an increasing number of high quality Sauvignon Blancs being released, bringing previous detractors of the grape back into the fold.

Producers are using techniques such as lees contact, lees stirring, barrel and bottle ageing to offer a new dimension to the wines produced throughout New Zealand.

With the news that your usual Marlborough “Savvy” (an affectionate term used by the dedicated Sauvignon Blanc drinker) might just be a bit harder to find perhaps it’s time to look at what smaller producers in the region are doing, such as Kevin Judd, previously of Cloudy Bay, who now produces Sauvignon Blanc under his own label, Greywacke, or Brian Bicknell at Mahi Wines and Jeff Clarke at Ara Wines to name but a few.

In fact, Kevin Judd confirms he does not expect supply issues to have a big impact on Greywacke.

While 2015 volume may be down, the 2014 harvest was large enough to produce additional volumes ensuring minimal effect on supply for the coming year.

South of Marlborough in Waipara, Paul Donaldson at Pegasus Bay confirms their Sauvignon Blanc supply is healthy and there are no issues with supply for the foreseeable future. They produce a Sauvignon Blanc under the Main Divide label as well as the Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Blanc, which is blended with Semillon. The Pegasus Bay blend looks to Europe for the stylistic template with 1-2 years bottle age before release, which means that the latest release to the market is 2013.

Further north in Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand’s second largest area under vine for Sauvignon Blanc, the story is similar for quality wines. The vintage although smaller than 2014 is of excellent quality and producers are looking forward to releasing wines with good concentration and varietal expression. Any gap in supply will come from earlier

vintages and Warren Gibson, winemaker at Trinity Hill in Hawke’s Bay confirms their style of Sauvignon Blanc is made in such a way as to benefit from a year or two in bottle meaning the release currently on the market is the excellent 2013 vintage.

In reality nearly every wine region in New Zealand produces Sauvignon Blanc with plantings to be found from Central Otago in the South Island to Wairarapa (much easier to say after a glass or two of Savvy!) in the North Island and on up to Waiheke Island. Quality winemaking in New Zealand is easily found and the key to survival in this time of perceived shortage is to seek out those smaller producers who are less affected by the decreased harvest volumes, as well as exploring the plethora of styles on offer from regions across the country.

The clever Sauvignon Blanc drinker will seek out some of these examples with additional complexity from earlier vintages should one’s usual supply being thin on the ground, while the clever producer will have held back stock from earlier vintages to be released in the coming year, ensuring supply is met.

And for those imbibers ready to chart new frontiers, New Zealand produces a variety of white wines in addition to Sauvignon Blanc, in particular Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling – most definitely something for everyone!

Jeff Clarke等等。 事實上，Kevin Judd表示他預期葡萄供應不 會出現問題，對他的Greywacke酒莊影響不 大。2015年的產量或會減少，但靠去年2014 年的大豐收，額外生產葡萄酒，確保來年的供 應受到最小的影響。 Paul Donaldson在位於Marlborough產區南 部Waipara地區的Pegasus Bay酒莊工作，他 指，並酒莊的Sauvignon Blanc葡萄供應健 康，在可見將來並無任何供應問題。他們釀造 的Sauvignon Blanc混合了Semillon葡萄，分 別屬Main Divide系列及Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Blanc，後者的葡萄組合與歐洲風格相 約，於瓶中陳釀一至兩年才推出市面，因此現 時市場上的最新年份為2013年。 而位於北邊、紐西蘭第二大種植Sauvignon Blanc葡萄的Hawke’s Bay產區，釀造優質 美酒的生產商的情況也相差無幾。產量雖較 2014年為少，但其品質比去年更優良，預期 能釀造出濃度高而更具葡萄特性的美酒。他 們同樣會以去年的供應來填補短缺，而該產 區Trinity Hill酒莊的釀酒師Warren Gibson指 出，他們釀造的Sauvignon Blanc需要在酒瓶 內待上一至兩年才推市場，因此目前市面上買 得到的年份為2013年。 現實中，紐西蘭幾乎每個產區也生產Sauvignon Blanc，從South Island的Central Otago產區到North Island的Wairarapa產區 (喝了一兩杯Savvy後，這個詞的發音可能沒那 麼繞口吧！)，以至到Waiheke Island也是。 紐西蘭出產不少優質佳釀，面對這次的葡萄短 缺，我們可放眼於較不受影響的小型生產商， 以及嚐嚐產自各個產區形形色色的美酒。 當供應相對減少，聰明的Sauvignon Blanc飲 者會選擇份外具複雜層次的較陳年份，而聰明 的生產商則早已囤積起足夠的供應，確保能維 持來年的產量以應令需求。 至於勇於嘗試的愛酒者，紐西蘭生產的白酒 除了Sauvignon Blanc之外，還有Chardonnay、Pinot Gris及Riesling──總有一款合你 口味！ winetimeshk.com 39

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Island Wines: A Taste of Madeira

澳門：島嶼之酒Madeira Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 在 譯文：Christie Chan 攝影：Ali Nicol Images 圖像：Justino's / Palatium Fine Wines

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adeira is something that not many people in Asia know about, let alone drink and it is often overlooked in favour of more commercially viable wines as after dinner drinks such as Port or the sweet wines of France and Italy. In fact, it is often confused with Port but the only thing the two have in common is that they are both fortified wines - that is where the similarities stop.

Madeira is a fortified wine made on the islands of Madeira which are an archipelago belonging to Portugal.

The wine is found in four main styles; dry, semi dry, sweet and semi sweet and there are five major grape varietals that are used in the production of Madeira; Tinta Negra, Sercial, Boal, Verdelho and Malmsey (Malvasia). There is also one more called Terrantez which was thought to be extinct up until the mid 1960’s when it was rediscovered.

bottle of Madeira) is the lack of labelling. The wineries instead opt for a more classically painted bottle with simply the vintage (if appropriate), name of the winery and grape. This is for a number of reasons but none more so than the fact that Madeira, because it is already oxidised and is meant to (and has the capability to) age for a long time; with labels on the bottles they could eventually disintegrate and thus one would not know what they are drinking!

But how is Madeira actually made?

The first choice is what grape variety to use as each varietal is, on the whole used for a different style of wine in terms of sweetness – the level of sweetness is also

亞洲，只有少部分人知道Madeira酒是何 物，曾經嚐過的更是少之又少。這種酒常被 視為商品化的葡萄酒，也被視為與砵酒或法國、意 大利的甜酒一樣，適合於晚飯後飲用。事實上，不 少人也經常將Madeira酒與砵酒混淆，但兩者唯一 的共通點為同樣是加烈葡萄酒—僅此而已。 Madeira酒是釀造於葡萄牙Madeira群島的加烈 葡萄酒，分別具4種風格：乾澀、半乾澀、半甜和 甜；而用以釀造Madeira酒的葡萄有5種：Tinta Negra、Sercial、Boal、Verdelho和Malmsey(Malvasia)葡萄，還有一種名為Terrantez的葡 萄以前也是其中一員，可是該葡萄品種一直被認 定為經已絕種，直至1960年代中重新發現它的足 跡。 人們對Madeira酒需求較大的情況常出現於美國， 當英國人喝砵酒，那麼美國人便喝Madeira酒，這 是因為Madeira群島曾經是駛經大西洋到美國的航 海路線的航點之一。這酒更是美國人在1776年7月 4日慶祝美國獨立的祝酒—就如以當時「異教徒英 國人」所喝的砵酒來祝酒一樣。 Madeira酒最先引人注目的地方是(也是確認那瓶為 Madeira酒的有效方法)：沒有酒標。酒莊選擇於瓶

Madeira has always been drunk more so in the United States; England has Port where as the US has Madeira. This is because the islands of Madeira have been traditional stopping points for voyages across the Atlantic to America. Only recently the Americans (and maybe the Iranians) toasted the success of their agreement on nuclear proliferation with a glass of Madeira.

Additionally, it was also the drink used to toast the declaration of Independence on July 4th 1776 – as if they were going to toast with the Port that the ‘infidel British’ were drinking at the time!

The first and most striking thing (and a sure way of recognising a

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determined by when the winemaker stops the fermentation. Then, as with all other fortified wines, a still base wine is made and to that is added grape brandy.

Then the magic happens! The process that Madeira goes through to get its distinctive flavour is called the “estufagem” process and this is where the wine is, quite literally, cooked. The wine is heated up in either stainless steel tanks (for the cheaper Madeira) or in the barrel in specially heated sauna-like rooms where the wine will eventually oxidise and take on the nuances we expect from Madeira.

One benefit of the oxidation of the wines is that they can then last for a very long time once opened. A bottle of Madeira can survive open for about a month – unlike Port which should be treated like, and consumed in the same style as a good red wine. The cooking of the wine allows for this longevity these days, but was originally formed so that the wines could survive on the upper decks of the ships that used to transport goods across the Atlantic to America.

The Levada vineyards of Madeira are some of the steepest in the winemaking world and thus this means that all of the grapes that go into making Madeira must be handpicked. This is a very expensive process and adds to the cost of the wines production. There are no terraces in the vineyards and thus pickers have the hazardous and arduous task of risking life and limb each and every year to get the grapes from the vines to the winery.

Climatically, the region is, especially in the summer months, very hot – but it has been known for there to be all four seasons in one day there!

Traditionally, Madeira is drunk as an aperitif on its own or after dinner; Pedro Lobo of Palatium Fine Wines Macau tells us also that a good cigar is always a happy companion with Madeira after dinner. It can be used in cooking but this is normally reserved for desserts – but it has been known to be used as a reduction or to go into sauces for entrees. To enjoy Madeira to the fullest, one should drink the wine

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at 12 to 13 degrees and from a small-ish glass (smaller than a white wine glass for certain). One could use a Port glass but what is needed is a more closed rim to keep the aromas in the glass. Madeira should be sipped slowly and appreciated over time and the fact that it does not evolve in either the glass or the bottle means that you are going to get a consistent taste each and every sip.

Wine Times Macau caught up with Pedro from Palatium Fine Wines at the Tenis Civil recently to taste four Madeiras, expand our horizons, broaden our knowledge and get a tutored taste of what we were going to write about. We still remember the first Madeira we ever tried back in 2009; it was an exquisite bottle of 1880 Terrantez Reserva from D’Oliveiras which was medium dry on the palate and still as fresh as the day it was bottled (almost!) over 120 years ago. But we were to taste slightly younger vintages with Pedro and, starting with the driest, the Broadbent Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old. This, on appearance was wonderfully golden in colour and alluring in the glass whilst the aromas were nutty. On the palate there is high acidity but this is perfectly balanced by the 50 grams of residual sugar and the mouth feel is sexy, rounded and creamy.

身簡單地油漆上酒的年份(如有)、酒莊名稱及葡萄 品種。這個做法的原因有很多，不過最主要原因為 Madeira酒已經過氧化，原意是要進行長時間的陳 釀(酒本身也能夠讓你這樣做)；如果酒瓶上印有酒 標，經過年月的洗禮後也會脫落，最終便無法得知 你正在喝些甚麼！ 但Madeira酒是如何被釀造的？首先要決定的便是 以何種葡萄釀酒，因為整體來說，不同的葡萄品種 用以釀造不同甜度風格的Madeira酒；而釀酒師決 定葡萄酒發酵時間的長短也可以影響酒的甜度。與 其他加烈葡萄酒一樣，它是以基酒加上葡萄酒白蘭 地而釀成。 之後便到了展示魔法的時刻！釀造Madeira酒的過 程中，有一項名為「Estufagem」的程序使酒的味 道變得如此特別—Madeira酒真可被指為被「煮」 過的酒。這種酒要在不鏽鋼的酒缸或酒桶內進行加 熱，原理就像桑拿房一樣，於是酒便會在容器內氧 化，釀造出屬於Madeira的氣味。 氧化葡萄酒其實也有好處，其中一個便是酒開瓶之 後可以擺放一段長時間，而開瓶後的Madeira酒可 以維持一整個月也不變質，與砵酒大為不同，飲用 時需待它如一枝好的紅酒。Madeira酒在加熱後的 壽命更長，可以把它放置在船上溫度較高的上層甲 板，方便來往大西洋及美國之間的航海貿易。 部分Madeira 群島Levada的葡萄園位於釀酒世界 中最斜的山坡，因此所有用以釀造Madeira酒的葡 萄必需以人手採摘，變相令生產成本增加。由於葡 萄園並無梯田，所以每年收成葡萄時，採摘葡萄的 農工需要非常吃力地爬上山坡，更冒上跌斷手腳甚 至生命的危險，才能把葡萄運回酒莊釀酒。這地方 的夏天特別熱，然而天氣卻能在一天裏有着四季的 變化。 傳統習慣上，Madeira酒不需要在配搭食物下飲 用，可當作餐前酒或飯後酒；而澳門酒零售商

Next up was the Boal 10 Years of from Justino’s which had a dark caramel colour to it – a bit like the colour of Bourbon or of a light coffee. This wine had a much bigger body to it and was a touch sweeter on the palate with 80 grams of residual sugar. It was rather like an espresso to be honest and we thought we could possibly substitute coffee in the mornings for a dram of this! This is certainly a more masculine wine and would be considered semi sweet with a huge long finish that showed dried fruit, nuts and honey.

Lastly, the Cohelita 1995 from Justino’s which is, obviously vintage Madeira that is predominantly made up from Tinta Negra. This had the highest levels of sugar out of all of the wines with just under 100 grams. We were expecting something akin to a thick, viscous Pedro Ximenez but we were surprised at how delicate it was.

There is some noticeable sweetness but it’s well integrated with the acidity and although a delicate wine, it has a finish that is wicked and a ‘juicy’ wine – one that you keep going back to drink!

Thirdly we had the Terrantez from Henriques and Henriques which has been aged in barrel for 20 years. The colour was golden brown and the high acidity that was to soon be on the palate was very evident on the nose. This is an intense wine and certainly one for the discerning connoisseur and the finish is stunning; you just have to give it 30 seconds after you have swallowed and the nutty nuances come flooding back into the mouth.

Pair this with some nice fatty ham and we think you’d be pretty close to vinous heaven!

Next time you get the opportunity to taste or to drink Madeira don’t pass up the chance. They are extremely intriguing wines that do not disappoint and, as they can last forever they make great gifts too for loved ones birth years, wedding anniversaries etc. There aren’t many suppliers of it in the region but in Macau you can contact Palatium Fine Wines by email on palatium. wine@gmail.com or call +853 2875 0782 or visit their website www. palatiumwines.com

Palatium Fine Wines Macau的Pedro Lobo向我 們指，一枝好的雪茄與Madeira酒是晚飯後「嘆一 嘆」的極佳配搭。這種酒也可以被用作烹飪之上， 不過在製作甜品上就更為普遍，但其實更廣泛地被 用作濃縮煮汁之上。要把Madeira酒享受得淋漓盡 致，最適合把它冷藏在12至13℃下，並以把它倒 進小酒杯內飲用(一定要比白酒杯小)。你可以砵酒 杯享用Madeira酒，但最好使用一個杯口更小的酒 杯，能將更多酒的香氣困在杯內。享用此酒時需慢 慢小口小口的細意品嚐，因為酒不會隨着時間而在 瓶中或杯中產生變化，因此你每口也會嚐到同樣的 味道。 Wine Times Macau邀得Palatium Fine Wines的 Pedro，到餐廳Tenis Civil與之共嚐四款Madeira 酒，讓我們可以對這酒增廣見聞，從專家的口中 知道更多相關知識。猶記得初次在2009年嚐到的 Madeira酒，那是D’Oliveiras酒莊釀造的1880 Terrantez Reserva的佳釀，屬於半乾澀的風格， 而且杯中的酒與接近120年前封瓶前的口味還差 不多呢！不過，我們跟Pedro會喝些年份較新的 Madeira酒，從最乾澀的Broadbent Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old開始喝起。把這酒倒出來，只 看見杯中美妙的金色，更散發着堅果的香氣；口味 方面，這酒的酸度高，但酒中剩餘的50克糖分完美 地中和了它的酸，而口感細滑完整，給人一種性感 的感覺。 下 一 款 嚐 到 的 便 是 J u s t i n o’s 酒 莊 的 B o a l 1 0 Years，其酒色為深焦糖色，有點像Bourbon酒的 酒色或淡咖啡。酒體較為厚身，酒中剩餘的80克 糖分也令口味變得較甜一點。說真的，這酒就像特 濃咖啡一樣，我們認為它甚至可以代替早上喝的咖 啡呢！這款Madeira酒風格較雄渾，但屬於半甜類 型，其餘韻長而具乾果、堅果和蜜糖味。 第三款是Henriques and Henriques酒莊釀造的 Terrantez，這酒在酒桶內經陳釀20年之久，其色 澤為金啡色，酒香與實際上同樣反映其高酸性。這 款酒為感覺較烈，十分適合眼光獨到的行家們鑑 賞。酒的餘韻令人為之驚嘆，把酒喝下並待30秒， 香氣會溢回到口腔之中。如果配以肥美的火腿肉一 同享用，相信你距離葡萄酒天堂不遠矣！ 最後，我們嚐到Justino’s酒莊的Cohelita 1995 ，明顯的是款按年份釀造的Madeira酒，並主要以 Tinta Negra葡萄釀造。這款酒含低於100克的糖 分，是四款Madeira酒中含糖水平最高的。在我們 想像中這酒的酒體較重，會像Pedro Ximenez葡萄 般出現黏黏的「掛杯」，但它卻帶給我們驚喜—它 的甜酸混和得恰到好處，可口非常，而且其餘韻也 充滿怡人果味，令你想不斷舉杯續喝！ 親愛的讀者，不要錯過嚐到Madeira酒的機會，它 不會讓你失望，而更是可口的美酒，加上其耐存的 特質，你可以買到各個釀造的年份，配合親友的出 生或結婚等紀念年份，可當作是一份很好禮物。 本港供應Madeira酒的零售商不多，但如果你來到 澳門，可電郵到Palatium.wine@gmail.com或致 電到+853 2875 0782與Palatium Fine Wines聯 絡，另外也可到www.palatiumwines.com瀏覽其 網站。

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Whine-on: Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄：想問就問！

Have any doubts or questions about wine? Send us an email at md@winetimeshk.com or leave a message on our Facebook page at facebook.com/winetimeshk and we will bust the answer for you! 你有任何關於酒的疑問嗎？請寄電郵到md@winetimeshk.com或在我們的 Facebook 專頁facebook.com/winetimeshk留言，隨便發問！我們樂意為你解開 每個疑難！ Q1: What exactly is terroir? – Amanda; Central Answer: Good question Amanda as it is a term that us wine people use very frequently without really considering whether people understand the terminology of it or not. Terroir is a French word and has no real simple English translation – hence why we use it for all languages. People speak of how the terroir of a region affects the taste and quality of the wines as it is the terroir that has a very important effect on the vines that the grape grows on. Essentially terroir is a combination of the climatic conditions (rain, sun, temperature at day and night, wind etc) and the soils that the vines grow in. It is more like a simple expression for ecosystem but as the French have coined the phrase terroir then this is the universal word used in the wine industry. Admittedly, it’s one of the most important factors in making wine and without the perfect conditions; without the perfect terroir, it’s very hard to make a very good wine.

甚麼是風土(terroir)？—Amanda；中環

答： 問得很好。許多酒評人都喜歡用到「風土(terroir)」 這個名詞，但卻沒有考慮到大眾到底明不明白行內術 語。「Terroir」本是法語，而且沒有簡單直接的英語 翻譯，因此在任何語言中也使用着這個法語名詞。人 們常問到風土如何影響葡萄酒的口味及品質，因為風 土對葡萄藤的生長有重要的影響，直接影響到葡萄的 質素。基本上，風土等於氣候(雨水、陽光、日間與夜 間的氣溫、風等等)，加上種植葡萄的土壤。就像是簡 單表達生態系統的意思，而法國人採用了風土一詞， 使葡萄酒世界裏的所有人也照樣使用這詞。風土是釀 造葡萄酒中一個重要的因素，因為欠缺了好的風土， 難以種植出好的葡萄藤，於是難以釀造出好的葡萄 酒。

Q2: Why is acidity important in a good wine? – Derrick; Lamma Island 為甚麼酸度是決定葡萄酒好壞的重要因素？—Derrick；南丫島

Answer: We here at Wine Times love acidity in wine; it’s what gives you that crisp, refreshing mouth feel on the palate and that makes you want to drink more of the wine. Acidity is important as without it there is no balance to the wine. A wine’s acidity may be described as citrus, as this is the most common trait a wine can be found to have – but there is also fruit acidity in red wines which comes in the form of berry flavours. Acidity is important to both red and white wines and is a major part of a wines ability to pair with food.

A good balance between sugar and acidity is essential and this is what qualifies a wine to be good by most in the industry. Acidity is also very important in wines that are intended to age – that is, wines that do not have good acidity or are not balanced will not age well and are meant to be drunk young.

44 winetimeshk.com

答： 我們WTHK喜愛葡萄酒中的酸度；酸度賦予了葡萄酒清 爽、清新的口感，而且令你想要多喝一點。酸度十分重 要，欠缺了酸度的葡萄酒根本不能平衡各方面的口味。 而葡萄酒的酸度可被形容為帶有柑橘類果味，這是葡萄 酒常見的特質，但紅酒當中則會以莓果味來形容。酸度 對紅、白酒同樣重要，因為它決定了葡萄酒能夠配搭些 何種食物，而酸度與糖分的平衡同樣是美酒佳釀必不可 少的特質。對於可以陳釀的葡萄酒來說，酸度尤其重 要，也就是說，欠缺平衡或酸度的葡萄酒不能好好被陳 釀，而是被設定為即時飲用的。

Q3: Should you always store wines lying down? – Lap Kan; Kwai Chung 應該把葡萄酒「打橫」存放嗎？—Lap Kan；葵涌

Answer: Great question! Everyone loves a good wine cellar and as you walk into a wine cellar the first thing you will notice is that most, if not all bottles of wine are lying down. Actually, when it comes to wine storage, whether you lie a bottle down depends on the time you are intending to leave it for. A wine that you are drinking within a day or a week does not necessarily need to lie down as lying a bottle down is usually for wines that are meant to be aged for months, if not years. Lying the bottle down allows the cork to come in contact with the wine and stops the cork itself drying out and thus making it harder to open as the cork will be too dry. Additionally, when you lie a bottle down the air pocket moves away from the cork allowing it to remain moist and this also gives the sediment that forms over time to rest at the bottom of the bottle – if you do lie a bottle down, do remember to stand it up for some time before opening and decanting so that the sediment falls back down to the bottom of the bottle.

答： 好問題！當你走進酒窖時，總會看到絕大部分的葡萄 酒瓶也是「打橫」擺放的。事實上，在存放葡萄酒方 面，決定把葡萄酒瓶橫放還是豎放，視乎你想把它存 放多少的時間。如果你打算在幾天內或一星期內開 瓶，那麼你也無需刻意把葡萄酒瓶橫放，因為橫放多 適用於陳釀數個月或數年的葡萄酒。葡萄酒瓶橫放 時，酒瓶的木塞會接觸到葡萄酒，使木塞免於乾得難 以開瓶。另外，如果你把酒瓶橫放，木塞會保持濕潤 而在酒中留下沉澱物，因此在你開瓶之前，你需要把 它豎立起來一段時間，使沉澱物留在酒瓶的底部，然 後才開瓶傾析。

Q4: Are high alcohol wines the same as Port wine? – Jeremy; Tai Koo 高酒精含量的酒就是砵酒嗎？—Jeremy；太古

Answer: We hear this question – or this statement – quite a lot in the wine industry. The simple answer to this is “no”. Port wine is a red wine that has been fortified with a grape spirit; that is, it is a regular wine that has had extra alcohol added to it. This was done in days of old to preserve the wine on its journey from the Douro Valley to the United Kingdom (the world’s largest consumer of Port wine).

Therefore, by adding a grape spirit the alcohol levels of the Port will rise to approximately 18 to 20% ABV. A high alcohol wine is just a high alcohol wine; there are many weather conditions that can lead to a high alcohol wine and there are still many winemakers making wine in a high alcohol style – primarily in California.

However, these wines have not had any grape spirit added to them for fortification and thus, high alcohol wines are just simply wines with high alcohol (usually caused from over ripe grapes which can happen easily in a hot summer of you are not checking your vines carefully each day).

答： 我們在行內也時常聽到這個問題或說法，而簡單而 言，兩者均不相同。砵酒是經加烈的紅酒，所使用的 烈酒也是以葡萄釀造，也就是說，它是款正常的葡萄 酒再加以額外的酒精。這種做法比較古老，以前的人 要把酒從葡萄牙Douro運到英國(最球最大砵酒消耗國) ，因此需要這樣的保存方法。加入葡萄烈酒的紅酒， 其酒精含量會提升到大約18至20%。高酒精含量的葡 萄酒就只是高酒精含量，原因可以關係到氣候或其他 因素，與砵酒並不劃上等號，而且有不少釀酒師刻意 釀造出高酒精含量的葡萄酒作為其風格，例如美國加 州的葡萄酒。然而，一般加州葡萄酒並沒有加入葡萄 烈酒，而只是因為以過熟的葡萄所釀造，因此有着較 高的酒精含量。

Q5: What are the best wines for spicy food? – Jenny; Kowloon City 哪種酒是辛辣食物的最佳配搭？—Jenny；九龍城

Answer: Ahhh, we love spicy food here at Wine Times and have many different theories as to what styles of wines work best with spicy food.

However, we must first say that although we are true wine lovers, now and again the best pairing for spicy food is actually beer – but we are not going to promote beer!! We think it depends on the levels of spice and the style of spice; for example, the difference in spice between say Thai and Indian food is quite apparent. With spicy Indian food, as it is on the whole much heavier than lighter Thai food then we suggest red wine and one that may have a touch of spice to it too – Shiraz is what we like to drink with a good lamb curry and if chicken is your thing, then a oaked Chardonnay we find usually does the trick! For Thai, either go with an easy drinking style of white such as Albariño or go with something with a touch of sweetness such as Alsace or German Riesling. There are no laws so drink what you want; just don’t drink anything too expensive with super spicy food – the chili will kill the wine!

答： 我們WTHK也喜愛吃辛辣食物，對於配搭何種葡萄酒 為最佳組合，坊間眾說紛紜。然而，雖然我們真的非 常喜愛葡萄酒，最能與辛辣食物配搭的始終是啤酒— 但我們不會慫恿讀者多喝啤酒！我們認為，辛辣食物 與葡萄酒的配搭視乎其辛辣程度，舉例說，泰國菜與 印度菜的辛辣有明顯的區別。比起泰國菜，印度菜辛 辣而濃味，因此我們建議配以同樣帶點香辛的紅酒— Shiraz紅酒配搭咖哩羊肉，或是具橡木味的Chardonnay白酒配搭咖哩雞，兩個配搭均是我們常吃的！至 於相對較清淡的泰國菜，我們建議喝較容易入喉的白 酒，例如Albariño，又或是帶點甜的Alsace或German Riesling。美食與葡萄酒的配搭中並無一定要跟從的法 則，就喝你想喝的吧；只是在吃辛辣食物時不要喝上 貴價的葡萄酒，因為太過辛辣會令酒變得淡而無味！

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Jobs provided by

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Recruitment in the wine business 人才招聘

Find out more wine job vacancies at www.winejobshongkong.com/ 請瀏覽以上網址查詢更多職位空缺

Wine Sales Assistant Manager – On Trade

Marketing Assistant

Responsibilities:

Responsibilities:

葡萄酒營業助理經理 Kerry Wines Limited -

To work with existing international key account customers and to develop new customers.

To achieve assigned sales and revenue targets.

To assist in the formulation of business strategies and action plans.

To assist the Director of On Trade Sales to increase market penetration rate.

To work closely with Marketing team to prepare marketing presentation materials, and launch business promotional programs.

- To assist in analyzing sales data for the purposes of formulating strategic sales and marketing plans.

- To assist in assess industry and competitive trends and implications on the business continuously through market intelligence and research.

- Any other duties assigned.

Requirements: -

Good sales track records.

Level II qualification from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust is a plus.

Sales experience in retail industry; wines & spirits industry is preferable.

Self-motivated; able to work independently and under pressure; result orientated; good sales, communication, presentation and interpersonal skills.

- Good command of both written and spoken English.

Candidate with less experience will be considered as Wine Sales Executive – On Trade.

Remuneration will commensurate with qualification and experience. Interested parties please forward your full CV with expected salary to Human Resources Manager, 30/F, Kerry Centre, 683 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong. Please mark “APPLICATION” on your envelope or e-mail to : kwlhr@kerrywines.com

市場推廣助理 Kerry Wines Limited -

Develop and design marketing materials Assist in copywriting, editing and graphics reproduction to enhance the professionalism of materials Provide administrative and clerical support on business development and marketing aspects Assist in brand promotion and brand building Help to coordinate and implement marketing and promotion events Perform any ad hoc duties as assigned

Requirements: -

Bachelor degree in Marketing / Business Management, English Studies, Translation or related discipline 1-2 years of relevant experience preferable in wine industry Excellent command of written and spoken English Knowledge in using design software (Photoshop, AI) Experience in copywriting, editing, and translating product catalogs or brochures is an advantage Pay attention to details and meticulous Good interpersonal skills, independent, self-motivated, and willing to learn

Remuneration will commensurate with qualification and experience. Interested parties please forward your full CV with expected salary to Human Resources Manager, 30/F, Kerry Centre, 683 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong. Please mark “APPLICATION” on your envelope or e-mail to : kwlhr@kerrywines.com

Sales & Operation Executive 銷售及營運代表 Riepenau Fine & Rare Asia Limited

Responsibilities:

Sales Executive

營業代表 Brix Hong Kong Limited

Responsibilities: -

To perform daily operation activities in our retail shops; Provide professional customer service and good shopping experience to customers; Maintain the shop tidiness and quality presentation

Requirements:

- 1-2 years of retail experience and have WSET certificate is an advantage - Good team player, responsible, strong interpersonal and communication skills - Good command of English - Less experience will be considered as Sales Assistant - Immediate available is highly preferred We offer competitive package including commission, medical insurance, annual leave & training subsidies. Career development plan will be provided to our staff including customer service training & WSET Level 1 to 4 wine course training.

Interested parties, please apply with detailed resume and expected salary to HR & Admin Dept. by fax to 2327-0262 or email to recruitment@ponti-tdg.com for interview.

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Provide sales supports and assist daily operation of showroom.

Process sales order and follow up delivery.

Perform warehouse stock take and inventory updates.

Basic website content maintenance.

Daily general administration.

Requirements:

- Diploma or above, with WSET certificate/ wine knowledge is an advantage.

- Proficiency in MS Word, Excel & Mac Mail is a must.

- Excellent interpersonal communication skills - Proficient in English, Mandarin and Cantonese.

- Immediately available If you are interested in this position, please send your resume directly to cherry.shen@emw-wines.com for recruiting process.

Looking for staff? Contact us at md@winetimeshk.com and we will add your search to our job page.

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