May 2015
Issue 7 FREE
Chapel Down –
A Sparkling Taste of England 舌尖上躍動的英國—Chapel Down
Dude; Gnarly Wines from Australia’s TWO HANDS! 澳洲Two Hands酒莊
TOP 10 er Summ Whites
the creativity forge
Drink Up, Hong Kong! 香港飲勝！
Ali Nicol Founder of Wine Times Hong Kong
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A local Hong Konger who has been working in the wine business for over 15 years. Obviously loves wine and wants to share all the lovely wines with everyone.
s it really the month of May already? My how time flies! It seems just a couple of weeks ago that we were tasting wines at the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens and now here we are staring summer in the face and considering what we will be drinking as the weather warms up! It’s time to dust off the swimming gear and start making the weekend pilgrimages to the beach people – but don’t forget that you can drink wine at the beach so if you are of that persuasion, then check out our Top 10 white wines this month for some inspiration to pair with the sunny Saturday afternoons at the beach. Of course, we took some inspiration for summer whites from the Wines of South Africa tasting that we co-sponsored mid-April at the Park Lane hotel where over 500 people descended on the top floor of the hotel to taste over 120 labels of mostly top quality South African wines. We feel that South Africa is highly under-represented in the city’s bars and restaurants and it was great to see so many people come out and taste the wines. Next time you are out for dinner and looking at a wine list without a South African wine on it, ask the manager or sommelier why!! Also this month, we take a look back at the wines we tasted at the Sevens as, unlike other years we were not there solely for the beer and found that, if you hunt around, there are some good wines to be found during Hong Kong’s most riotous weekend. We also take a look at some sparkling wine from the Chapel Down winery in England – yes England! – where some world class wines are being made and have got the
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French looking worryingly over the baguette on their shoulders! The month of May is shaping up to be another great month for wine events and if there’s anything on it will be on our event pages here and if we find out short notice, it will of course be up on our website! There is HOFEX (a bi-annual trade event) on this year and we will of course be heading there to find some wines to fall in love with and subsequently tell our readers about. It’s not a wine fair per se, it’s for all aspects of the trade but there will be wines there and we are looking forward to seeking out the gems on offer. As you can see from our front cover, we are getting ready for summer and although we will be championing white wines for the coming months, there is no reason not to drink red wines and we think that the wines we are featuring from Australian winery Two Hands are some of the best representations of Aussie wines available in the city at the moment. Times have changed in recent decades and the young winemakers of Australia are making some phenomenal wines these days. Finally we head to Macau for a fine dining Chinese meal at the Conrad hotel’s Dynasty 8 and review some excellent food and wine in a restaurant where the service was outstanding and without doubt will become a regular feature of our Macau dining. So all that’s left to say is have a great month ahead, catch those rays of sunlight and ‘drink up Hong Kong’! Cheers!!
月真的來到了嗎？時光可真會飛逝！香 五 港國際七人欖球賽好像還是幾星期前的 事，而我們現已在大大的太陽底下，想着我們 該喝些甚麼美酒來迎接夏天！趕緊從衣櫃裏把 泳裝找出來，跟沙灘上的俊男美女一起與陽光 為伴。不過在曬日光浴的同時，葡萄酒也可當 你的伴兒。閱讀今期的《十大夏日白酒》，讓 你可在星期六下午出發到沙灘之前作好準備。
說到夏日白酒，我們出席了上月於柏寧酒 店舉行的南非酒展Discover South African Wine，展覽有超市500人次參與，展示了超 過120款南非葡萄酒，我們當然也嚐到一些值 得推介予讀者的美酒。然而，我們認為南非葡 萄酒在香港仍未得到餐廳及酒吧的垂青，因此 看到參與是次酒展的人數眾多，為此而感到高 興。若你在餐廳的酒單上看不見「南非」這個 產國，你該向經理或侍酒師問個究竟！ 今期WTHK雜誌中，我們報道了在香港國際七 人欖球賽上嚐到的葡萄酒，有別於往年，我們 今年不只是為了啤酒而來—如果你願意把眼張 開，其實場內有不少葡萄酒的選擇，讓你可盡 情暢飲，度過這狂歡的周末。我們也介紹了來 自英國的Chapel Down酒莊—沒錯，就是英 國！其所釀造的世界級優質氣泡酒，更令法國 人開始擔心香檳的銷量呢！ 五月份將會有更多品酒活動，密切留意雜誌內 的活動專頁，又或是瀏覽我們的網頁，緊貼 最新的品酒活動資訊。亞太區最大型的食品飲 料及酒店餐飲設備商貿展HOFEX將於本月舉 行(隔年舉辦一次)，我們當然也會到場一探究 竟，希望找到美酒與讀者分享！雖然這次商貿 展不只展示葡萄酒，但只要有機會可試到未曾 試過的佳釀，我們也會落力尋訪的。 光是看到今期的封面，你也知道我們已張開雙 手去迎接夏日了！雖然白酒在未來的幾個月可 能比紅酒更受歡迎一點，但這不代表我們該把 紅酒擱在一邊，因此我們為讀者介紹澳洲Two Hands酒莊，其在年輕釀酒師打理下，所出產 的葡萄酒中，部分更是澳洲之最。 最後，我們嚐到了澳門康萊德酒店中菜館「 朝」的佳餚，其服務質素與食物質素同樣極 高，有望成為澳門高級食府的指標之一。就讓 我們把握機會抓緊享受陽光的日子，舉杯與「 香港飲勝」吧！乾杯！ (Christie Chan譯) Contact us via email at md@winetimeshk.com
Contents 目錄
2 Drink Up, Hong Kong!
Hello Wine World 4 走進酒世界
p7 Two Hands Wines
香港飲勝！
7 Dude, where is my wine?
Editor’s Picks: Drinking 13 Outdoor in Summer time
「喂，我枝酒呢？」
小編推介：夏日露天暢飲好去處
14 Chapel Down – A Sparkling Taste of England The Wine Doctor: 17
舌尖上躍動的英國—Chapel Down
Hot Hong Kong: Storing Wine at Home 酒博士專欄：
p14 Chapel Down
香港炎夏：妥善貯存葡萄酒
19 “Join us for Tasting” May's Wine Events 24 品酒日曆－五月份
26 “Un Giro d’Italia” Discover the Unknown Italy
Top 10 Summer Whites 29 十大夏日白酒
探索未知國度：意大利的葡萄寶庫
34 Champion Sommelier Talks Hokkaido Cuisine
“Serious” Drinking at the 36 Sevens
香港國際七人欖球賽上「認真」暢飲
Panel: Italian Pizzas & Wines 飲食擂台：意大利 薄餅與葡萄酒
侍酒師談北海道美饌佳餚
38 Chef Talk: Frederic Chabbert of Mano 主廚出廳：法國菜餐廳Mano的 Frederic Chabbert
Macau: 41 A Memorable Epicurean Journey at Dynasty 8 澳門：樂而忘返之「朝」旅
44 Whine-On: Ask us whatever you like! Recruitment 48 in the wine business
讀者專欄：想問就問！
p13 Places to go for drinking outdoor
行業人才招聘
p36 “Serious” Drinking at the Sevens
p38 Chef Talk@Mano winetimeshk.com 3
Christie Chan Editor of Wine Times Hong Kong Almost an alcoholic who thinks the fun part of life starts getting unlocked when you drink. On first impression is not into girly-ness and sweetness; but spirits and liquors.
D
ays are hard when you are in sorrow but they fly away without you being aware of when you are in joyfulness, and that explains how April has gone out of my sight. At the beginning of the previous month, I was on holidays travelling to get my summer started earlier than Hong Kong. I travelled to Sabah where I got intimate contact with sunshine and became tanned. Besides the sun and beaches, what else cannot be missed during holidays? Of course wines, spirits and beers! This was my first time travelling to Malaysia and I found out imported beer there is more expensive than in Hong Kong but locally made wines and alcohol can be really low priced (around HKD30 at lowest). Among the beers available in supermarkets and convenience stores there, Guinness is cheaper than in Hong Kong because the country is where they are produced. With such a good deal, I have been drinking it for sure! Here I would like to share a picture I took in a rural area during my trip; nothing related to wine but I really enjoyed the stunning view and landscape. Summer is a season for outdoor activities, getting ourselves into nature, as well as drinking outdoor! This month to embrace summer with our readers, I’ve written a piece to share my favourite spots to enjoy wines, beers, cocktails, spirits, liquors or whatever’s in the summer air! Honestly I’ve been to all the places I recommend and I will come back to them from time to time as they are truly my personal favourites. Please read my report and maybe you will bump into me at one of the places. Don’t forget to greet and say ‘cheers’ by then! Looking forward this month, I will be participating at the HOFEX and it will be my first time at the event. I am so ready to taste all the beautiful and lovely wines and spirits there and share anything nice with you all, so stay tuned! At last, let’s toast to summer with a glass of white or sparkling in our hands! Cheers! 4 winetimeshk.com
謂「開心的時光過得特別快」，這是真的，笑着 所 笑着，轉眼間我已為四月份劃上句號。我想我今 年比一般人提早「放暑假」，因為我在月初到了沙巴 旅行，那邊陽光充沛，我的皮膚也曬得比較黝黑一點 了。不過，除了陽光之外，還有些甚麼能令你的假期 變得更愉快？當然是酒吧！這次是我第一次來到馬來西 亞，發現當地的進口啤酒普遍比香港的要貴，但當地釀 造的酒品(我看到的是約20%酒精含量的「香酒」)價格 卻可低至約HKD$30。而且，我發現當地的Guinness 黑啤售價比香港稍為便宜一點，原來我們在香港喝到 的Guinness黑啤就是 在馬來西亞製造的， 如此「抵飲」，我又 怎能不多喝幾杯呢！ 在此，我想與讀者們 分享沙巴郊區的美景( 圖)，雖然與酒無關， 但我真的很享受看到 平日接觸不到的自然 景觀。 夏天是進行戶外活動 的季節，也是親近大 自然的好時機，這當 然也包括了在戶外露 天的地方暢飲！本月 正式踏入初夏，因此 我決定率先為讀者推 介露天暢飲的好去 處，讓我們可邊抱緊 夏日，邊暢快痛飲！ 每一個推介的地方我 也到過，也真的是部 分我最喜歡的地方， 因此我會時常再到這 些地方暢飲，說不定 你會在其中一處碰見 我。希望你們同樣喜 歡到這些好去處暢 飲，如果真的碰見我的話，可以跟我「鏗杯」呢！ 不得不提的是，我將會首次參與五月份大型的食品飲料 及酒店餐飲設備商貿展HOFEX，準備好為讀者嚐盡各 式各樣的酒品，再把嚐到的美酒分享予大家，所以請密 切留意下一期WTHK。最後，讓我們以一杯白酒或氣泡 酒，為夏日的來臨歡呼！乾杯！
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Dude, where is my wine?
「喂，我枝酒呢？」 Text by Ali Nicol Photography by Christie Chan Images: Two Hands
譯文、攝影：Christie Chan
圖像：Two Hands
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ustralian wines have enjoyed great success in Hong Kong in recent decades and the wines have come a long way since the 1990’s when they were, on the whole pretty badly made and pretty badly received by wine drinkers. Australia can take credit for the ABC movement (Anything But Chardonnay) which rocked the white wine industry in the mid 1990’s as they took a great grape and, essentially killed it with over oaking and other practices that meant the wine didn’t even taste like wine. These days, Australia can hold its head high with pride and is the second most imported country’s wine into Hong Kong and is also second in terms of the value of those wines too. The quality of Australian wines has vastly improved with the new generation of winemakers taking a different approach to wine making than the generation that preceded them – looking for more distinct flavours and a truer reflection of the grape varieties themselves. On the whole, the more fruit forward nature of the wines from Australia makes them perfect wines for the wine novice and for the drinker who likes a glass of wine without having to have food with the wine. The fruity nature of the wines and the distinct lack of heavy tannins make them very approachable and more easy drinking than, for example, the wines of France (Hong Kong’s most imported wines)
and well suited to everyday drinking. One winery that caught our attention recently was the iconic Two Hands winery – arguably making some of the best wines coming from Australia at present. Two Hands wines come from the prominent region of the Barossa Valley and makes wines of poise and elegance predominantly from the Shiraz grape. Founded in 1999 by Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz the two men conspired to make the best possible Shiraz-based wines from prized Shiraz growing regions throughout Australia.
早於廿多年前，澳洲葡萄酒普遍為粗製濫「 釀」，也多被評為劣酒，但來到今天，澳洲葡 萄酒已在香港市場佔一重要席位，這全靠當時 的「ABC運動(Anything But Chardonnay)」 ，所釀造的Chardonnay撼動了90年代中的白 酒市場，尤其將葡萄酒長時間在橡木桶內陳釀 (over oaking)，以及其他有別於一般的釀酒 方法，更令葡萄酒口味異於一般葡萄酒。 在香港，澳洲葡萄酒廣受飲者歡迎，貴為本地 第二大葡萄酒入口國，銷售金額同樣位居第 二。近幾十年來，澳洲葡萄酒質素得以改善， 箇中原因在於更多年輕釀酒師加入行頭，他們 以嶄新的釀酒方法及技術釀酒，更注重釀出口 味獨特、能夠反映葡萄品種特性的葡萄酒，令 不少人對澳洲葡萄酒另眼相看。 整體而言，澳洲葡萄酒偏重果味，非常適合葡 萄酒入門飲者，也適合喜歡「淨飲」，在不配 襯食物下飲用葡萄酒的人。其缺少單寧及偏重 果味的特質，使澳洲葡萄酒比起法國葡萄酒( 本地最大葡萄酒入口國)容易令人接受，也較 為容易入喉，更適合每天飲用。 近日，我們注意到澳洲Two Hands酒莊，其 所釀造的葡萄酒可謂澳洲目前生產中部分最好 的佳釀，主要為Shiraz葡萄酒。酒莊位於著名 的巴羅莎谷產區(Barossa Valley)，由Michael Twelftree及Richard Mintz於1999年創立，二 人希望在澳洲獲獎的Shiraz產區中釀造出最好 的Shiraz紅酒。 他們志在使生長於澳洲的Shiraz葡萄品種變 得更多樣化，於澳洲不同產區如巴羅莎谷 (Barossa Valley)、麥羅蘭谷(McLaren Vale) 、克雷兒谷(Clare Valley)、蘭霍恩河(Langhorne Creek)、帕德塔韋(Padthaway)和希 思科特(Heathcote)種植Shiraz葡萄，並且想 向世界展示其成果。Two Hands酒莊以在這
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Their intention was to create and showcase the diversity of Australian Shiraz and its different regional characteristics making wines from grapes grown in the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Padthaway and Heathcote. These regions go into producing the four ranges of wines produced at Two Hands which are the Picture Series, Garden Series, Single Vineyard Series and Flagship Series. “For the Flagship Series, we go through every single barrel in the winery, taste them, score them and around 0.2% to 0.5% of production goes into this series”, says Pierre-Henri Morel of Two Hands. “It’s all about quality – the very best Shiraz, the very best Grenache and the very best Cabernet. For the single vineyard series we look for blocks that have a unique expression”. “But it’s the Garden Series that is the DNA of Two Hands, this is what we started with and we wanted to show the diversity of Australia through these wines”, Pierre-Henri goes on to say. “We have six Shiraz, coming from six different sub-regions of South Australia. The profiles of the wines themselves are all so completely different depending on which subregion there is because there are different climates, altitudes and micro-climates to take into account”.
些產區種植的Shiraz葡萄，釀造出4個系列的葡萄酒，分別為Picture Series、Garden Series、Single Vineyard Series以及Flagship Series。 「我們嚐遍了酒莊裏所有酒桶的葡萄酒，為每一款酒評分，而評分最高的0.2% 至0.5%的便是我們的Flagship Series。」Two Hands酒莊的銷售及市場總監 Pierre-Henri Morel指出。「這就是品質──最優秀的Shiraz、最優秀的Grenache和最優秀的Cabernet。而Single Vineyard Series則着重於具獨特個性的 葡萄酒。」 「但Garden Series才是Two Hands酒莊的核心，就如『DNA』一樣， 我們從這個系列開始，也希望藉着這系列來展示澳洲葡萄酒的多樣性。」 Pierre-Henri Morel接着說。「我們生產6款Shiraz紅酒，所採用的葡萄分別生 長於澳洲南部6個不同的小產區。由於各區的氣候、海拔、微氣氛各有差異， 因此釀造出特性完全不同的Shiraz紅酒。」 不過，我們最先注意到的是酒莊的Picture Series，第一次在2014年嚐到其中 的名為Gnarly Dudes的Shiraz葡萄酒。這酒來自巴羅莎谷產區，但卻打破了對 該產區的所有誤解：其2013年份(現時在市面上有售的年份)雖然較男性化，但 同時帶着櫻桃果味的優雅，酸度平衡也不錯。在喝這酒時，我們想到十分適合 在燒烤時享用，也令我們想要嚐嚐Two Hands酒莊其他系列的葡萄酒，而適逢 Pierre-Henri到訪香港，我們當然邀他與之訪談共飲。 一次過嚐到同一種葡萄品種，但被種植於不同小產區的葡萄酒實在意想不到地 有趣！Picture Series的Fields of Joy 2013產自克雷兒谷，其果味濃郁，只帶 點點單寧，令人聯想到這酒是來自舊世界的葡萄酒；同系列的Angel’s Share 2013則產自麥羅蘭谷，其酒體較豐盈厚身，口感柔滑細膩，餘韻長而重，烤
It was the Picture Series that first alerted us to Two Hands wines and, in particular, a wine called Gnarly Dudes which we tasted for the first time back in 2014. It’s a Barossa Valley wine but breaks all misconceptions about the Barossa Valley as although the 2013 vintage (the current vintage on the market) is masculine, it’s also elegant with lovely cherry notes and a great acidic balance. We just think BBQ when we drink this wine and it was the inspiration to taste the full range of wines with Pierre-Henri while he was in Hong Kong recently. Tasting wines comprised of the same grape but from different specific sub-regions is insanely interesting! The Picture Series Fields of Joy 2013 from Clare Valley is very fruit forward with subtle tannins and very reminiscent of an old world wine whilst winetimeshk.com 9
the Angel’s Share 2013 from McLaren Vale is fatter and rounder with a velvety, creamy texture on the palate, a big long finish and screams out for something like a lamb shank or a Portobello mushroom burger. Tasting the Garden Series (which unlike the Picture Series is bottled in cork closure) you get a real idea of the diversity of the regions top-quality grapes. The Samantha’s Garden 2012 from the Clare Valley is delicate with more subtle aromas with a long opulent finish and overall a delicate and neat wine. The Lily’s Garden 2012 from McLaren Vale is big and full bodied but elegant at the same time; a wine that opens up in the glass and is a wine that is well suited to food such as Rib-Eye steak. Finally, the Bella’s Garden 2012 shows 10 winetimeshk.com
stunning fruit and takes all the negative misconceptions of Barossa and throws them in the bin. What this shows is the wines from Clare Valley are more feminine in style, elegant and lighter whilst the Barossa is more masculine and rounded on the palate. What was surprising was that the wines from McLaren Vale were the most bold, most full bodied wines as many people think this is what you would expect from the Barossa. All wines do however have insanely good finishes, something we really look for in a world-class wine and go to show that if you search out the right wines from Australia, there are some incredible wines being produced there and they are wines that are far and away better than the quality found on some of our local
羊膝或波特蘑菇漢堡將會是一流的配搭。 之後嚐到Garden Series(有別於Picture Series，這系列是以木塞封瓶的)，真的能令你 嚐得到種植自不同產區葡萄的優良品質與多 樣化。來自克雷兒谷的Samantha’s Garden 2012，帶有淡淡香氣，餘韻長而豐 富；Lily’s Garden 2012來自麥羅蘭谷，這酒 重身而酒體豐盈，但同時不失優雅，而酒在杯 中待點時間後會變得更好喝，適合配以食物享 用，例如肉眼扒；最後Bella’s Garden 2012 的果味最為濃郁，完全把人們對巴羅莎谷產區 的負評通通拋開。 這反映了產自克雷兒谷的葡萄酒較為女性化， 優雅而酒體亦較輕，而巴羅莎谷的則較男性 化，口味上也較平衡。最令人驚訝的一點是， 產自麥羅蘭谷的葡萄酒才是最重身而剛，而非 許多人印象中的巴羅莎谷葡萄酒。不過，上述 的所有葡萄酒均有令人回味的餘韻，這也是世 界級葡萄酒的特質，亦證明了澳洲也有出產美 酒佳釀，只要你願意多試試看，總會找到比超 市不只好一點點的貨色。
supermarket shelves. What we found cool (aside from the wines themselves!) were the names of the wine; which for the Picture Series are all named after songs or movies. The Gnarly Dudes (now one of our favourite reds from Australia) is named after “The Dude” from one of our all time favourite movies, The Big Lebowski – so there’s no way we cannot love it! In all, Two Hands make outstanding wines and if you are looking for a real taste of Australia then we recommend you try these over your next dinner or at your next BBQ – when we say BBQ we are not talking about a trip to Shek O, we’re talking about great steaks, great food cooked over a proper ‘barbie’ at home with the food eaten
with proper crockery and wine appreciated from proper glassware – it’s the very least wine of such quality deserves. Two Hands wines are available from World of Wines in Hong Kong and more information can be found by emailing C Wong on marketing@worldof-wines.com.hk or by calling +852 2559 1998 Editor's Note: If 'sweet' wines are your thing then give the Cane Cut Semillon "For Love or Money" or the Moscato "Brilliard Disguise" a try this summer.
除了酒本身質素高外，酒莊為每款葡萄酒取名 也極為特別；Picture Series中的葡萄酒是以 歌曲或電影為主題的，出現在封面的Gnarly Dudes(現在已是我們最喜愛的澳洲紅酒之一) ，便是以經典電影《大保齡離奇綁架》(The Big Lebowski)中的主角「The Dude」命名， 連名字都能引起我們的共鳴，我們又怎能不愛 上它呢！Two Hands酒莊釀造出如斯佳釀， 我們推介你可於下頓晚飯或燒烤時，親自嚐嚐 澳洲真正的味道。說到燒烤，這並不是指到石 澳燒烤場的「港燒」，而是以下廚用的燒烤 爐，烤上極品牛扒及新鮮食物，並以精緻的陶 瓷碟端上食物，更要以合適的酒杯盛着美酒享 用。這樣高級的燒烤，不是一般質素的葡萄酒 能夠配得上的！ Two Hands酒莊的葡萄酒於本港酒零售商 World of Wines有售，更多詳情可與C Wong 聯絡，電郵地址：marketing@world-ofwines.com.hk；電話：+852 2559 1998。
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CLOS DE L’OBAC WINE DINNER (21 May, 2015 Thursday) Amuse bouche Blue lobster and Iberian pork medallion over creamy white asparagus Priorat Blanco Kyrie 2009 *** Grilled sliced beef with foie gras curd, marine salad and frozen mustard cream Priorat Miserere 2004 ***
Watercress risotto with burrata cheese and mushroom *** Farmhouse egg yolk resting on a liquid herb salad with cured pork carpaccio and black truffle juice Priorat Clos de l’Obac 2006, 2005, 2003 *** Tuna belly ‘a la plancha ‘, mango and black olives, smoked sauce and galangal *** Roast Organic Rhug Estate new lamb, piquillo and capers condiment, dairy touch ***
Chargrilled French pigeon, pork and mushroom cannelloni, pineapple and liver toast Priorat Clos de l’Obac 1994 *** Textured chocolate with coffee and a whisky ice shard Priorat Dolç de l’Obac 2007 *** Petit fours
HK$ 1,980 per person
Due to the complexity of our dishes, not all ingredients are mentioned in the description. Please advise our staff of any allergies All prices are subject to 10% service charge
For booking contacts please email or call info@vignetteduvin.com 2681 2888 or the restaurant directly: INFO@VASCO.COM.HK 2156 0888
Editor’s Picks:
Drinking Outdoor in Summer time 小編推介：夏日露天暢飲好去處
I never get enough of Hong Kong’s stunning Tapagria, TST skyline as it’s the symbol of affluence under daylight and the magic in night sky. In the centre of busy area Tapagria is a Spanish bar located Text by on the 18th floor of shopping arcade The One where you can enjoy tapas and sangria with a 撰文： full picture of the Kowloon side and far of the Christie Chan Island side under your eyes at a higher altitude. Plenty of choices from wines to cocktails and rather reasonable charge with a balcony that you can stare at the enchanting view for hours. “The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, 維港兩岸的景色總讓我看不夠，在日光下映 tears and the sea.” This quote from Danish 照繁華，在夜空中傾瀉光影。西班牙酒吧Ta- author Isak Dinesen stays in my mind forever pagria位於尖沙咀The One商場的18樓，讓 since the first time I’ve read it because I love being at the seaside. It’s a public 你在吃西班牙式小吃(Tapas)，喝美酒、特式 always area so basically you don’t have to spend a 雞尾酒的同時，可以飽覽九龍並遠眺港島的 penny to hang out. Just bring your own wines, 景貌。葡萄酒及雞尾酒的選擇眾多，價錢屬 beers or ciders to the pier and you may look 合理範圍，而且你可在酒吧的露台坐上數小 for solitude and inner peace looking at the glowing horizon. 時，看着那醉人的景色，更謂物超所值。 Thinking of spending all afternoon drinking beer with snacks? This is the perfect place where you can enjoy the sea breeze and looking at the view of Stanley Main Beach. Seats on the podium allow you to stay in the shade so you don’t have to worry about getting too much sun. There are fridges of beers and ciders (all under $30 a bottle) and a menu of hot food such as fries, pizzas and pastas to choose from. Easily spend the day here but not all you have in the pocket!
「鹹水可以治癒任何事情：汗水、淚水及海 水。」讀過這句由丹麥女作家Isak Dinesen 的話後，它便深深印在我腦海中，因為我喜 歡海邊，看海能使人心情平靜而放鬆。西環 碼頭及堅尼地城海旁一帶為公眾地方，你不 費分毫便可享受美景。只需帶着想喝的葡萄 酒、啤酒或有氣果酒，你可獨坐在海旁欣賞 日落黃昏，也可相邀朋友到這此，一起唱着 Sai Wan Pier 「夕陽無限好」。
想「啤啤佢」？我不 能不推介這個好地 方—Pizza Q！坐在海 邊，在海風吹拂而太 陽又不會太猛烈下， 你可邊望望沙灘，邊 喝冰凍的啤酒，吃剛 炸好的薯條，我只能 想到一個字：「嘆」 ，而且更不需花費甚 多。店鋪裏有幾個雪 櫃，放滿啤酒、有氣 果酒(每枝約$30)等 等的飲料任君選擇， 還有熱食餐牌，提供 薯條、薄餅及麵食等 Pizza Q, Stanley 等。 Tapagria 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
尖沙咀彌敦道100號 The One 18樓 Sunday to Thursday 星期日至四: 12pm - 12am; Friday & Saturday 星期五及六: 12pm - 1:30am
2147 0111 / 2253 7111
This is definitely a hideaway in bustling Tsim Sha Tsui allowing you to be surrounded by plants and purple glowing cubes in a courtyard. The place is rather quiet where you can really have a nice chat with friends. Spacious and comfy seating makes it the best place to catch up with friends who like smoking shisha just like me. Unique cocktails originally mixed by house bartenders and a wide range of wines and spirits available.
天到了，炎熱亦 夏 隨之而來，但這 不代表我們該整天躲 在冷氣房裏，因為有 更好的消暑活動正在 等着你—露天暢飲！ 小編特別喜歡待在海 邊，而冬季的海旁卻 有點太冷了，因此夏 天來臨實在令人興 奮。曾形容自己為「 識嘆」的我，想與讀 者們分享我最喜歡露 天暢飲的地方，讓你 和朋友們可抓緊夏日 的好天氣，一同舉杯 共「嘆」！
Vibes@The Mira, TST Vibes是尖沙咀鬧市中的隱蔽花園，讓你可置 身於青翠之中，而場內發光的紫色正方體燈更 為夜晚營造氣氛。比起同區的酒吧，這裏寧靜 而寬敞開揚，適合與知己細訴生活事，跟我一 樣喜歡吸食水煙的朋友更會愛上這酒吧！在別 處喝不到這裏的調酒師特調的雞尾酒，葡萄酒 及烈酒的選擇也多。
Vibes 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 108 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀彌敦道108號The Mira Hong Kong酒店5樓 Sunday to Wednesday 星期日至三: 6pm - 12am; Thur 星期 四: 6pm - 1am; Friday & Saturday 星期五及六: 5pm - 1am
2315 5599
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race yourself, summer is coming! (Game of Thrones fans will know this line with excitement from watching recently aired Season 5.) As the cold has long gone we cannot wait to hang out in the open air with drinks in our hands and friends by our side. Being a proclaimed “master of chillax” (chill + relax), of course I know where to go so follow me and head straight to hanging loose in an exhilarated mood.
Pizza Q Stanley Main Beach, Stanley 赤柱正灘平台
12pm - 11pm daily 每天營業 2682 9878
winetimeshk.com 13
Chapel Down – A Sparkling Taste of England 舌尖上躍動的英國—Chapel Down Text by Ali Nicol
譯文：Christie Chan
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od’s sweet England, the land of crumble, cream teas and opportunity where people take bleak joy in the rain falling on their fish and chips, whose population are perennial apologisers and who would really rather not cause a fuss. The country that has given the world such delights as cricket, Morris dancing and warm beer also currently proudly boasts some of the world’s finest sparkling wines. “Now, now dear boy” I hear you say as you choke back the tears of laughter as your sides split thinking what the French might think reading this; it’s true (and for a Scot to admit the English are good at anything is about as surprising as the French bathing on more than one occasion annually)! Global warming and the nutrient rich soils have made the south of England one of the most prime spots for grape growing for the production of sparkling wine; the area is only 60-odd miles north of the region of Champagne and has the same soil make up as the world’s most famous sparkling wine region. One such winery in Kent – the Garden of England – is called Chapel Down and is England’s largest producer of sparkling wines and is giving the French a run for their money and has them cautiously looking over their shoulder as the quality from England is compared to that of France and as some producers furiously scramble to buy up land in England’s winemaking heartland. The English have a tendency to be satisfied with adequacy; there’s no need to be fantastic and they are a cynical bunch, but there is nothing adequate or cynical about the wines coming from Chapel Down – they are actually quite fantastic, award winning wines that are making many 14 winetimeshk.com
sparkling wine drinkers sit up and take notice of an emerging wine that pleases the palate as much as it does the wallet. English products are the world’s best on the whole and command prices that reflect the quality of the produce and this is no different from Chapel Down wines. A bottle of Chapel Down will cost you about the same as an average, mass produced recipe Champagne from one of the large producers – but the
到天主的庇佑，英國是片充滿着餅碎、 受 奶茶、機遇的福地；英國人會淡淡地笑 着雨點灑在別人的炸魚薯條上，而口邊總掛上 「對不起」三個字，說話亦婉轉得很，常把短 句變成長句才把話說出來，而事實上寥寥數字 便可充分表達其意思。這個國家與世界分享了 它的板球、傳統莫里斯舞蹈(Morris dance)、 暖啤酒，最近更把其釀造出部分世上最優秀的 氣泡酒共諸同好。讀到這裏，你可能正在一邊 忍着笑，一邊在想法國人看到這段文字會有何 想法；說真的，要一個蘇格蘭人承認英國人幹 得好，與法國人一年中不止為一個場合而洗澡 般詫異！
在全球暖化下，土壤肥沃的英國南部成為其中 一個主要的葡萄種植區及氣泡酒產區，此區域 位於法國香檳產區的北面，距離只有60多英 哩，有着釀造出世界知名的氣泡酒同樣的泥 土。在被喻為英國的花園的肯特郡(Kent)，有 一名為Chapel Down的酒莊，是英國最大的 氣泡酒生產商，其所釀造的氣泡酒被法國人視 為競爭對手，有些生產商更瘋狂搶購該產區的 土地，以求在英國葡萄酒心臟地帶佔有位置。 英國人較為重「量」，只要數量夠多便心滿意 足，而憤世嫉俗的他們也不求出色出眾。不 過，Chapel Down酒莊的葡萄酒卻完全沒有 以上的特質，這些優秀高質、屢獲獎項的佳釀 得到了飲者的目光，不僅使其味覺愉悅，更使 其銀包甚感輕鬆。英國製造的產品可說是世界 上最好的，其價格也常反映出「一分錢、一分
貨」，而Chapel Down酒莊的葡萄酒也不例 外。一枝Chapel Down葡萄酒的價錢相等於 一枝質素中等且為大量生產的法國香檳，然而 其性價比一定高於香檳，所帶來的愉悅感也難 以估量。
value for money is infinitely higher and the pleasure derived is immeasurably more so. There are five Chapel Down sparkling wines available in Hong Kong from importer Victoria Wines; The Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut NV, Pinot Reserve 2008, Three Graces 2008, Blanc de Blancs and Rosé Brut and they are all distinctly different in their own characteristics. In fact, the recent birthday of Queen Elizabeth II celebrations in Hong Kong and Macau were toasted with Chapel Down sparkling wines so if they’re good enough for the Queen, they they’re most certainly good enough for us mortals! My favourite is the Three Graces 2008, an eclectic blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier which is intense with bready, yeasty notes and a mouth full of complexity. It’s a bit posh and punches above its weight and if you like vintage Champagne then you will like this too. Most people’s favourite is the Vintage Reserve Brut with its lemony, zesty and vibrant character that literally tastes like a sunny summer day in England and when drinking you can close your eyes and just imagine yourself out in the garden chilling on your summer holidays. I know rosé is still rather passé here in Hong Kong but the Chapel Down Rosé Brut is a beautiful
香港酒零售商Victoria Wines有售5款特 質均不同的Chapel Down氣泡酒，分別為 The Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut NV、Pinot Reserve 2008、Three Graces 2008、Blanc de Blancs以及Rosé Brut。事 實上，最近在香港及澳門的英女皇誕辰慶祝活 動上，Chapel Down氣泡酒便是所選用的祝 酒。要是這些酒對英女皇來說已經夠好，那對 我們凡人來說也肯定夠好了吧！
wine made from 100% Pinot Noir. It’s fruit forward and refreshing with a touch of complexity and another perfect summer wine. Chapel Down really does “make an occasion special” as it says on the bottle and is a much better alternative to the boring Champagnes on the market at the moment. If you want to taste the wines from Chapel Down then don’t miss the Victoria Wines consumer portfolio tasting at Armani Aqua on May 15th from 6:30pm to 9:30pm of you can buy them online from www. victoriawines.com.hk
在5款氣泡酒之中，我最喜愛的是Three Graces 2008，優雅地混合了Pinot Noir、Chardonnay 和Pinot Meunier葡萄品種，帶有強 烈的麵包、酵母味道，層次也來得豐富。如果 你喜歡陳擺的香檳，你也會喜歡這酒的。許 多人鍾情於Vintage Reserve Brut的檸檬、清 新、有活力的口感，就如嚐到英國夏日的和煦 陽光一樣，你甚至可以閉上雙眼，幻想置身於 花園中享受着夏天的假期。我知道在香港並不 流行喝rosé，但由100% Pinot Noir葡萄釀造 的Chapel Down Rosé Brut卻是一瓶美酒， 其偏重果味及口感清爽的特質，加上少許層 次感，同樣使它成為另一適合夏天飲用的氣泡 酒。 一如酒標上所寫道，Chapel Down酒莊的 葡萄酒的確能「讓這一刻變得獨一無二」 (“make an occasion special”)，也是相 對於現時市面上司空見慣的香檳以外更好的 選擇。如果你也想嚐嚐Chapel Down酒莊的 葡萄酒，不要錯過Victoria Wines為顧客而 設、於本月15日晚上6時半至9時半在Armani Aqua舉行的夏日酒品試酒會，或是在其網站 上www.victoriawines.com.hk購得佳釀。
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THE WINE DOCTOR - Hot Hong Kong: Storing Wine at Home 酒博士專欄－香港炎夏：妥善貯存葡萄酒 by Maurizio Galli
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A passionate wine aficionado and educator who believes in a non-pretentious approach to wine. Having a soft spot for obscure and exotic wine regions, he quickly gained a reputation of wine nerd under Red Mill’s umbrella.
ong Kong summer is here and as you all know very well, it’s gonna be hot! Really hot! Unfortunately for us wine lovers, heat is the number one enemy of wine. Why? Well wine is highly volatile and for better or worse it’s influenced by the surrounding environment. Long story short: extreme environmental heat can pretty much “cook” your wine. Let’s get the nerd part out of the way and let’s say that generally speaking wine needs to be stored in a cool environment so that it doesn’t develop too quickly. At higher temperatures, wines start aging in the bottle at an unnatural and accelerated pace, with the ultimate result of tasting terribly sour with pretty much no fruit flavour left. In extreme temperatures the dormant yeast in the wine can reactivate and start re-fermenting the wine. In this instance, the wine feels unnaturally fizzy on your palate due to the CO2 (carbon dioxide) released in the process and sometimes the pressure can even make the corks pop out the bottle. Wine should rest and be stored at a constant temperature, always! Minor fluctuations are acceptable, but should be kept under control. The ideal temperature for storage is kind of an open debate but it should be between 10 °C and 15 °C no matter whether it’s red wine, white wine, rose or bubbles. Although most wines can usually hold up to 20°C quite ok it’s not an ideal temperature for long-term storage as the aging would still happen too quickly. Hong Kong and its crazy 30+°C makes this challenging but there is no reason to panic. First, your everyday plonk that only sits around the house for few days would not be noticeably affected. Second, every other wine that you own that will be kept for several months or even years needs special attention, and this can only be achieved by artificially create ideal constant temperature and environmental storage conditions. The most economical and space saving solution for the majority of us living in shoe box sized apart-
ments is to get a wine fridge. These are sold everywhere in Hong Kong and come in different sizes and formats for different needs. Some of them even have different temperature zones so that you can separate wines that needs to be kept at storage temperature from those at serving temperature such as chilled white wine. However temperature control needs to be combined with controlled humidity and light protection and good quality wine fridges just provide all that creating the artificial environment to best preserve wine medium to long term.
Controlled Humidity: The ideal environmental humidity should stay between 70% and 75%. Low humidity can make the cork dry out and lose its vacuum seal and break when you pull it out of the bottle. Too high humidity mostly creates esthetical problems: mold can start growing on the labels and labels start detaching from the bottle. Light protection: Prolonged exposure to UV light can be as damaging to wine as hot temperature creating similar problems of accelerated aging. Thus it’s important to keep wines in a dark place, especially for wines bottled not using dark glass. Most wine fridges are provided with a UV screen on the glass door to prevent light damage. In one sentence it’s like creating the right environment so that the wine can sleep without being disturbed till it’s ready to be popped. Try a few nights of bad sleep and you also will be as bitter as spoiled wine.
天到了；你必定知道香港的夏天有多炎熱 夏 吧？正確來說，是非－常－炎－熱！對愛 酒者而言，炎夏來臨並非好事，因為高溫正正是 葡萄酒的死敵。為甚麼？葡萄酒的揮發性高，容 易受到周遭環境影響而變好或變壞。容許我長 話短說：環境中的異常高溫會「煮熟」你的葡萄 酒。 一般而言，葡萄酒需被貯存於陰涼的環境，好讓 葡萄酒的變化只限於低幅度。當葡萄酒被置於較 高的溫度之下，葡萄酒在瓶內的陳釀過程會以非 自然的速度加快，最終會變得極為酸澀，果味亦 全部消散。在極端的高溫下，葡萄酒中處於休眠 狀態的酵母會被喚醒，再次開始進行發酵，在這 種情況底下，瓶內的二氧化碳會隨之增加，喝酒 時你能感覺到有微微的氣泡在舌頭上跳動，或有 時候瓶內的氣壓更足以令整個木塞彈飛。 葡萄酒應該一直被放置及貯存於恆溫環境下！溫 度可以有微微的波幅，但一定要在控制之下。雖 然最理想的貯酒溫度廣被討論多時，但不論是 紅、白酒、玫瑰紅酒，還是氣泡酒，其溫度範圍 該在10°C至15°C之間。不過，儘管許多葡萄酒 能抵禦近20°C，可是長遠來說，仍然會加快葡 萄酒的陳釀過程。香港的夏日氣溫經常達到瘋狂 30°C或以上的高溫，要好好貯存葡萄酒並不是 易事，但你也不用擔心。第一，你每日常飲用的 「平酒」只會在家中待上數天，氣溫對其影響根 本難以察覺；第二，其他你已打算存放數月或數 年的葡萄酒，而這只能透過人為設定適當的恆溫 環境去貯存葡萄酒。 大部分香港人住在蝸居內，最實惠而省地方的貯 酒方法，便是購置一個酒櫃。因應各人的不同需 要，市面上有着不同大小、形式的酒櫃任君選 擇，而且亦不難購買得到。有些酒櫃的內部更分 開了不同溫度的區域，讓你可分別存放不同種類 的葡萄酒，例如可將白酒冷藏至理想飲用溫度。 除溫度之外，濕度及光源的控制對貯酒亦非常重 要，而一個好的酒櫃便能夠營造一個合適的人工 環境，使葡萄酒能夠在中長期被好好貯存。 濕度控制：理想的環境濕度範圍為70%至75%。 濕度過低會令抽乾木塞水分，使其真空封瓶的作 用失效，直到開瓶時整個木塞也會「粉身碎骨」 ；相反，濕度過高很可能會破壞酒的美感，酒瓶 上的酒標有機會發霉，又或是不再貼服地黏在瓶 身上。 光源控制：葡萄酒過度曝露在紫外光下，與處於 高溫下情況相同，兩者均會加快陳釀過程。因此 葡萄酒需被貯存於暗室之中，尤其非以深色玻璃 酒瓶盛着的葡萄酒。多數酒櫃具備防紫外光的塗 層，避免讓葡萄酒直接受到陽光照射。 以一句作總結：為葡萄酒製造一個適合的環境， 讓它在被開瓶前好好睡一覺。如果你連續幾天晚 上也睡得不好，你也會像變了質的葡萄酒一樣— 「苦瓜乾的嘴臉」！ (Christie Chan譯) winetimeshk.com 17
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“Join us for Tasting”
Panel: Italian Pizzas & Wines 飲食擂台：意大利 薄餅與葡萄酒 Let’s rock wine tasting in a way other than with the “professionals”. Here we present to you our “keep it real” tasting panel, where we invite our readers to join us to taste wines and give real honest feedback. Each month, we will take wines from a particular country or area and take you out for dinner with your friends and all you have to do is tell us and our readers what you think of the wines and simply enjoy a delightful dinner! This issue, we invited our wine friends to Pizzeria Jacomax in Sheung Wan (G/F, Shop C, 88 Commercial Building, 38-42 Wing Lok Street) to pair what maybe Hong Kong’s best pizzas with Italian wines - which of course sounds totally legitimate! Many ltalian wines are made for food so here check out our pizza party and what our panel thought of the food and wine pairings...
有別於一貫刻板的專業酒評，WTHK每期的飲 食擂台將邀請讀者與我們一同嚐盡美酒佳餚， 讓他們寫下最真實的感受及酒評，並親身告訴 所有讀者。我們每月會挑選一個國家或地區的 葡萄酒，宴請讀者和朋友們邊享用晚餐邊品嚐 美酒，並即席寫下和分享對酒品的想法。 今期《飲食擂台》邀約我們的酒友，到上環的 薄餅店Pizzeria Jacomax，為意大利的葡萄 酒，配上可能是全香港最美味的薄餅，聽上去 已覺得合情合理！許多意大利葡萄酒被釀造為 餐酒，而意大利薄餅也是幾乎沒有人會抗拒的 美食，所以這個薄餅派對簡直是樂滿「fun」 ！現在就來看看我們的第一身意見... 譯文、攝影：Christie Chan
Text by Ali Nicol & Christie Chan Photography by Christie Chan
ALL WINES SUPPLIED BY BNS ASIA LTD 葡萄酒由BNS ASIA LTD提供 www.bns.com.hk
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Colour: Ruby Red Aroma: Fresh red fruits Palate: Dry, with good body and acidity Why do I like it? Tastes better and better after each sip I take! Best food pairing: Pepperoni and Salami
TOP 1
Nicolis Valpolicella Classico 2013
Colour: Ruby Red Aroma: Bright fresh red fruit Palate: Dry with subtle tannins, good acidity matched by fresh fruit and some minerality Why do I like it? Intriguing match of Barbera and bubbles! Best food pairing: Prosciutto and Fungi Pizza
酒色：寶石紅 香氣：非常清新，充滿紅果果香 味道：各方面均平衡，新鮮櫻桃，酒體不厚 不輕，口感很好 為何喜歡？這酒是枝美酒，入口清新，享用前最 好稍稍冷藏一下，其口感更佳 最佳食物配搭：松露油薄餅
「意大利葡萄酒入口商，葡萄酒傳教 士，考究世界上精美東西的欣賞家，總 比瑟縮於大機構的角落裏工作要好！」
TOP 2
Tre Monte Doppio Rosso Barbera Frizzante 2013
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Colour: Ruby Red Aroma: Very fresh, plenty of red fruits Palate: Rounded, fresh cherry, fruity with a medium body, good mouth feel a nice smooth finish Why do I like it? Nice, fresh and really excellent when served slightly chilled Best food pairing: Truffle Oil Pizza
“Italian Wine importer, wine evangelist and appreciator of the finer things in life such as actually having one rather than working in a corporate cubicle!”
Tre Monte Doppio Rosso Barbera Frizzante 2013
♛TOP 2
酒色：寶石紅 香氣：新鮮怡人的紅果果香 味道：口感乾澀，帶有微微 單寧，酸度適中，襯托着 鮮果及一點礦物味 為何喜歡？Barbera葡 萄與氣泡—美妙的 結合！ 最佳食物配搭： 意大利熏火腿蘑 菇薄餅
♛TOP 1
“Wine lover who enjoys good food and wine”
Viberti Giovanni Piedmont Chardonnay 2012
「葡萄酒友，享受美食與佳釀」
Colour: Pale Straw Aroma: Lots of green apple aromas Palate: Clean on the palate, fresh and easy drinking Why do I like it? Just loving it; could finish off the whole bottle myself easily Best food pairing: Diavola Pizza (spicy Pepperoni)
Op Chhelia ui
酒色：寶石紅 香氣：新鮮紅果類果香 味道：口感乾澀，酒體、酸度均為佳 為何喜歡？這酒每一口都比之前更好喝！ 最佳食物配搭：意大利辣肉腸和意大利熏火腿
酒色：冷色系的稻黃 香氣：濃郁青蘋果香氣 味道：口味簡單而口感清新， 而且容易入喉 為何喜歡？就愛喝這酒； 單我一個人就可輕易地喝 完一整枝 最佳食物配搭： Diavola薄餅(意 語：惡魔，即香辣 口味)
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♛TOP 1
Tre Monte Campo di Mezzo Sangiovese 2013
Colour: Red Aroma: Very fresh; a fresh ripe plum with foresty floral undertones Palate: Smooth and punchy at the same time Why do I like it? Easy drinking and no nonsense. Best drank with feet up on the sofa watching your favourite soap opera! Best food pairing: Almost any pizza and all of the ones from today
e le son ma “Fluctuating between oenologist and alcoholic” 「徘徊在葡萄酒專家與酒鬼之間」
酒色：酒紅色 香氣：非常清新；主調為新鮮 熟梅，也帶有森林花香的氣息 味道：口感順滑，同時 也為口腔帶來衝擊 為何喜歡？這酒容易入 喉，最好懶洋洋地躺 在沙發上看肥皂劇！ 最佳食物配搭： 幾乎所有口味的 薄餅，而今天 吃到的所有也 適合
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TOP 2
Tre Monte Doppio Bianco 2013
Colour: White Aroma: Fresh blueberry and strawberry Palate: Like strawberries in the glass Why do I like it? It’s fresh and makes an excellent ‘quick fix’ wine. A naughty lunchtime wine! Best food pairing: Ham Pizza
酒色：白酒 香氣：鮮藍莓及士多啤梨果香 味道：就像喝一杯士多啤梨一樣！ 為何喜歡？這酒口感清新，最適宜「速戰速 決」。它也是枝很好的餐酒，可令沉悶平凡的 午飯變得有樂趣！ 最佳食物配搭：火腿薄餅
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♛TOP 1
Tre Monte Doppio Bianco 2013 Colour: White, straw colour Aroma: Awesome apple, pear and citrus notes with a hint of yeasty aromas Palate: Dry and fresh with light bubbles. Flavours are mostly apple and citrus with a great balance and complexity – great as an aperitif Why do I like it? It’s refreshing, bubbly, dry and versatile Best food pairing: Napoli Pizza as the saltiness of the anchovies beautifully counter balances the acidity in the wine
io z i ur lli a M Ga “WTHK’s Wine Doctor and a self proclaimed wine geek”
「WTHK『酒博士』，自稱葡萄酒 怪傑」
♛TOP 2
Tre Monte Doppio Bianco 2013 Colour: Pale Gold Aroma: Refreshing citrus fruits Palate: Tiny little bubbles with delightful acidity from citrus fruits and a short finish Why do I like it? I like those lovely baby bubbles! Being dry and having nice acidity score too. Best food pairing: Prosciutto and Funghi Pizza
TOP 2
Tre onte Campo di Mezzo Sangiovese 2013
酒色：帶稻黃的白酒色 香氣：宜人的蘋果、梨及柑橘類 果香，並帶有一點酵母香 Colour: Beautiful 味道：口感乾澀而清新，帶有 and youthful ruby 微細氣泡。口味主要為蘋果 red 及柑橘類水果，整體平衡 Aroma: Plum, but with 而層次豐富，十分適合 red and black fruit with 作為餐前酒 an encompassing 為何喜歡？這酒清爽 herbal aroma 怡人，我喜歡它的乾 Palate: Dark red fruit, 澀、氣泡，並適合 very elegant tannins, a slight 各種場合 hint of strawberry jam Why do I like it? It’s well 最佳食物配搭： balanced and a well rounded 拿坡里薄餅； red wine 當中鯷魚的 Best food pairing: Ground beef 鹹味與酒的 and Sausage Calzone 酸度形成 的對比 酒色：美而有活力的寶石紅 甚佳 香氣：梅果香，但也有紅果及黑果類果香， 當中也有一點香草味 味道：深紅果類味道，具優雅的單寧， 亦有一點點的士多啤梨果醬的甜 為何喜歡？這是枝酒各方面皆 平衡、平均的美酒 最佳食物配搭：免治牛肉及香腸 薄餅餃
♛
TOP 1
Divola Pizza or anything a little bit spicy
酒色：像是凋謝的小黃花 香氣：清新蘋果的果香 味道：口感清新順滑，酸度怡人 為何喜歡？我喜歡這枝白酒可在配或不配食物下 飲用，既可「淨飲」，也可作餐酒 最佳食物配搭：與Divola薄餅十分配搭， 相信與微辣的食物也很配合
“WTHK’s Editor and a happy girl who prefers drinks over food”
「WTHK編輯，經常『無厘頭』大 笑，喜歡喝多於吃」
tie ris n Ch Cha
酒色：冷色系金色 Viberti 香氣：清新的柑橘類果香 味道：微小細緻的氣泡， Giovanni 加上來自柑橘類水果的 Piedmont 酸度，可口宜人， Chardonnay 而餘韻不長 2012 為何喜歡？我喜歡酒 中的「BB氣泡」！ Colour: Like withered 口感偏向乾澀， goldenrod 而且酸度剛好， Aroma: Fresh apples 為這酒加分 Palate: Smooth and 不少 refreshing with adorable 最佳食物 acidity 配搭： Why do I like it? This is a 意大利熏 white that I would drink with or without food and that’s great 火腿蘑 for both foodie and non-foodie 菇薄 Best food pairing: Perfect with 餅
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♛TOP 2 ♛
TOP 1
Tre Monte Doppio Rosso Barbera Frizzante 2013
NicAli ol “WTHK’s Founder; generally found propping a bar up somewhere miles away from civilisation in order not to be been testing his palate in places he shouldn’t be!” 「WTHK創辦人；通常在找尋隱蔽的酒 吧，在不該喝酒的地方喝酒」
Nicolis Valpolicella Classico 2013
Colour: Red Aroma: Black and red fruit forward aromas, touch of herbs and spices Palate: Great fruit, great weight on the palate, subtle tannins, great food wine Why do I like it? It makes me think of eating food when I drink it – and that’s what wine was designed for! Best food pairing: Truffle Oil Pizza
Colour: Ruby Red Aroma: Fruit forward, bursting with 酒色：酒紅色 aromas of summer 香氣：偏重黑果、紅果類 berries, 果香，也帶點香草及 rather delightful! 辛料香氣 Palate: Tastes of Alpine 味道：果味濃而有質 strawberry, reminds me 感，具微微單寧，可 of drinking in the sun, crisp 為一枝不錯的餐酒 acidity that most certainly should work well with food – 為何喜歡？喝的 or without it! 時候會想吃東 Why do I like it? It reminds me 西，這就是葡 of weekends and holidays in the 萄酒存在的 sun 目的！ Best food pairing: Prosciutto and 最佳食物 Fungi Pizza 配搭：
酒色：寶石紅 香氣：重果味，杯中溢滿夏日 莓果香味，甚為怡人！ 味道：我嚐到森林草莓，幻想在陽光底下喝這酒， 酸度清脆爽口，容易與食物配搭起來，不配也可！ 為何喜歡？這酒令我聯想到與陽光 一同度周末及假期 最佳食物配搭：意大利熏火腿 蘑菇薄餅
松露 油薄 餅
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May's Wine Events For the full information on all the above events visit our website www. winetimeshk. com/events
各品酒活動詳情可 瀏覽WTHK網站 www. winetimeshk. com/events
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10 11 12
Sileni Wine Tasting at Enoteca Elements
17 18 19 Institute of Masters of Wine Masterclass with Berry Bros & Rudd
24/31 24 winetimeshk.com
Institute of Masters of Wine Masterclass with Berry Bros & Rudd
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(Public Holiday – Buddha’s Birthday)
WTHK turns 4 years old today!!
Ca’Rugate Italian Wine Dinner at Ciak
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(Public Holiday – Labour Day)
HOFEX Trade Fair
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HOFEX Trade Fair
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Feudi di San Gregorio Wine Dinner with Sarment at 8 ½ Madison Wine & Pont des Arts Launch Event
50&50 and Capannelle Signature Portfolio Vertical Tasting
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A Glimpse into Burgundy 2012 with Ginsberg+Chan (FREE)
HOFEX Trade Fair 10 Italian Wines; 1 Night at The Flying Winemaker
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Feudi di San Gregorio Tasting at Sarment Lounge German Wine Tasting with Chilled Wines
Victoria Wines Grand Tasting at Armani Aqua
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HOFEX Trade Fair Hidden Gems of Italy with Ginsberg+Chan (FREE)
Delicious Burgundy Tasting with Ginsberg+Chan (FREE)
13 14 15 16 AIX Rosé Event with EMW Fine Wines Banfi Day: Grand Tasting at Ciak
Banfi Wine Dinner at Ciak
Banfi Wine Dinner at Grissini
Sands 11th Anniversary Tasting at Sands Macao
“Camera Eats First” Winemaker Dinner with Cottage Vineyards at Doppio Zero
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Institute of Masters of Wine Masterclass with Berry Bros & Rudd
Clos de l’Obac Premium wine dinner with Vignette du Vin
Saturday Sips: Pessac Leognan with Ginsberg+Chan (FREE)
Baron Edmond de Rothschild Wine & Cheese Tasting
Saturday Sips: Summer Rosés with Ginsberg+Chan (FREE)
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Ginsberg+Chan 1st Annual Trivia Challenge
Pre-Summer Wine Tasting at Corney & Barrow Tasting Room
California Wines Mega Event at the Conrad Hotel
Valle dell’Acate Sicilian Winemaker Lunch at SEPA with Cottage Vineyards Rosé Revolution at Hullet House winetimeshk.com 25
“Un Giro d’Italia” Discover the Unknown Italy 探索未知國度：意大利的葡萄寶庫 Text by Ali Nicol & Marco Bianchi 譯文：Christie Chan
I
taly makes some of the world’s best wines from the multitude of indigenous grapes that grow on its fertile soils; in fact, Italy has the largest number of indigenous grape varieties from which wine is made worldwide. In total, there are 377 different varieties alone, many of those having different clonal types thus making Italy arguably one of the most diverse wine making countries in the world. In this monthly feature, we will take a look at the grapes specific to each region and highlight some of the wines that are crafted from each variety. This month, we look at some of the regional grapes of the northern Italian region of Emilia Romagna. Emilia Romagna is one of Italy’s largest wine regions with approximately 60,000 hectares under vine and made famous by its cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano), its salumi Parma, fast cars and Balsamic vinegar from Modena and, of course, its wines – made famous primarily by the production of the famed sparkling wine Lambrusco. 1. Lambrusco The Lambrusco family of grapes includes a whole range of clonal grape varieties but the most important two are Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce. Both are red grapes that form the backbone of Lambrusco production with the Grasparossa lending its inky purple colour and aromas of violets, strawberries, plums and cherries to the wine whilst giving it the tannin (it’s the most tannic varietal of the Lambrusco family) and robustness to make it an excellent wine to pair with food. The Lambrusco Salamino is known for its deep ruby 26 winetimeshk.com
colour, purple-edged froth and exceptional fragrance lending a delicate bouquet, fruitiness and elegance to the blend. 2. Uva Longanesi Uva Longanesi is a little known grape which has recently been rediscovered and revived in the last few decades. Not so affectionately known as “Burson” – meaning the Big Bore – it takes it’s name and nick-name from the grapes saviour, Antinio Longanesi who pioneered the re-growth of the grape in the 1950’s; there are now 200 hectares of the grape grown in Emilia Romagna, primarily in the areas of Ravenna: Bagnacvallo, Lugo, Russians, Godo Fusignano and Cotignola. Wines made from the varietal show intense cherry and cocoa flavours in a fruit forward style of wine with grippy tannins and a full bodied structure. 3. Malbo Gentile Malbo Gentile is found on the hillsides of Emilia Romagna as it favours a higher altitude and a cooler climate to retain its acidity in the grape. This acidity is balanced out by the naturally high sugar content of the grape and coupled with the late ripening and thick skins, the variety has become well suited to air drying creating a unique style of grape that shows rich black fruit characters of blackberry, raspberry alongside aromas of rich fruit with delicate rose petal undertones. Due to the highly tannic nature of the grape, it is almost always oak aged which can help soften the wines and make them more approachable. The grape is sometimes used in the blends for sparkling Lambrusco as it lends colour and tannin to the blend and is often compared to having the same nuances as the Malbec grape varietal.
意
大利的土地上生長着眾多的原生葡萄品種，釀 造出部分世界上最好的葡萄酒，事實上更是擁 有最多原生葡萄品種的國家，其葡萄酒更供應到世界 各地。在數字方面，在意大利的土壤上可找到377種 葡萄品種，當中更有多種無性繁殖的複製葡萄(clonal grapes)，因此有說意大利是最多樣化的葡萄酒產國。 在這兩版專頁上，我們會為讀者介紹來自不同國家產 區的葡萄品種，並且推介釀自該些葡萄品種的酒品。 今期WTHK帶大家到意大利北部產區艾米利亞 - 羅馬 涅(Emilia Romagna)，認識生長於該區的葡萄品種。 艾米利亞 - 羅馬涅是意大利其中一個最大的葡萄酒產 區，種植葡萄的農地面積約為60,000公頃，更因該區 出產的帕馬森芝士(Parmigiano Reggiano)、帕爾瑪 火腿(Parma)、跑車以及產自摩德納(Modena)的意大 利香醋(Balsamic vinegar)，當然更少不了葡萄酒—因 釀造Lambrusco氣泡酒而聞名。
1. Lambrusco葡萄
Lambrusco葡萄品種家族有着一系列無性繁殖的複製 葡萄，當中最重要的兩款便是Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro和Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce葡萄品種。兩者均為紅酒萄葡，佔了大部分 Lambrusco產量，Grasparossa葡萄品種使酒的顏色 有如墨水般漆黑的紫色，有着紫羅蘭、士多啤梨、梅 果和櫻桃的香氣，同時也讓酒變得更具單寧及力量， 使之成為頂尖的餐酒；而Lambrusco Salamino則可 釀出深寶石紅的酒色，以及使瓶中頂層氣泡染成紫紅 色，也帶有突出芳香、果味的優雅氣味。
2. Uva Longanesi葡萄
Uva Longanesi葡萄是鮮為人知的品種，近幾十年來 被人重新發現而復興。別名為「Burson」，意思是 大口徑，雖然這名字不太動人，但其正式名稱和別名 也是因其「救世主」Antinio Longanesi而命名，他 於50年代提倡重新種植Uva Longanesi，現時佔了 艾米利亞 - 羅馬涅產區的200公頃耕地，主要在拉溫 那(Ravenna)地區，包括Bagnacvallo、Lugo、Russians、Godo Fusignano以及Cotignola。這種葡萄 品種具有濃郁的櫻桃及可可味道，屬於偏重果味的風 格，酒體厚身而其單寧沉穩。
3. Malbo Gentile葡萄
這種葡萄生長於艾米利亞 - 羅馬涅近山地區，其海拔 高及較清涼的氣候適合該種葡萄生長，使其酸度充 足。這種葡萄本身含糖量高，中和了其酸度並使之平 衡，加上其遲熟及果皮厚的特性，使它能在空氣乾燥 的環境下生長，形成獨特的葡萄風格，充滿黑果類如 黑莓、木莓果味，果香濃郁而帶點玫瑰花香。由於這 葡萄單寧較重，因此多在橡木桶中陳釀，使酒變得沒 那麼剛烈，令人更容易接受。釀造Lambrusco氣泡酒 時，也可混合這種葡萄在其中，主要為取其顏色和單 寧，其香氣與Malbec葡萄相似而與之對比。
Best Examples of Italian native grapes
Learn more at AIS: AIS sommelier courses are available at Italy Small Vineyards. For more information contact fay@ italysmallvineyards.com
1. Lambrusco
Ca Montanari Opera 02 Lambrusco di Modena
Certified organic. Bone dry, aromas of raspberry, black cherry, sage and violets. Easy drinking and low alcohol (11%). Best paired with food such as salami, cheese with Balsamic vinegar but can also be drunk easily on a hot summer’s afternoon.
Italian Small Vineyards有提供 AIS侍酒師課程，詳情請電郵到 fay@italysmallvineyards.com
Available at: Enoteca Italiana
經證實為有機葡萄酒。口感極為乾澀，具木莓、黑櫻桃、鼠 尾草、紫羅蘭香氣。低酒精含量(11%)而容易入喉。與莎樂 美腸、芝士和意大利醋十分配搭，也可於炎夏的下午輕易喝 掉整枝。
209 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong +852 2362 1488 info@italysmallvineyards. com
2. Uva Longanesi
Monteverdi Restaurant
Azienda Agricola Randi Burson 2010 Ravenna Rosso
Intensely fruity, floral and grassy perfumes define this ruby red wine. Medium tannins grace the palate while notes of cherry, plum and liquorice excite the taste buds with a graceful acidity on the finish. Great wine for white meats with flavour such as turkey, rabbit and veal – exceptional with wild boar. 這酒在寶石紅酒色下散發着濃郁的果香及花草香。味道帶有 櫻桃、梅子和甘草，具中度單寧，餘韻酸度適中，令味蕾惦 記這酒。適合配以味道較濃的白肉，例如火雞、兔肉及小牛 肉，山豬更甚。
3. Malbo Gentile
Ca Montanari Opera 02 Malbo Gentile Rosso Emilia IGP
6a-8 High Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong +852 2559 0115 armando@monteverdirestaurants.com
Carpaccio Pasta Pizza & Vino Shop 307, 3rd Floor, iSQUARE, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong +852 2328 5202 info@carpaccio.com.hk
DiVino Patio Ristorante Bar Pizzeria
Shop 11, 1/F, BRIM28 Causeway Centre, No. 28 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong +852 2877 3552 info@divinopatio.com
DiVino Wine Bar & Restaurant Ruby colour with blueberry, floral and herbaceous notes on the nose. Smooth and elegant on the palate with a juicy, fruit forward palate and a finish of ripe berries. Integrated tannins fall away leaving a subtle acidity on the finish. Fresh and crisp; can be drank with simple pasta and tomato dishes or just on its own watching the sun go down at the end of a long day. 眼晴看到寶石紅色，鼻子嗅到藍莓、花香、草本植物的香 氣，口裏的優雅順滑感伴隨着果味濃郁的口味，餘韻留下熟 莓果味，在單寧消失後剩下微微的酸。其口感清新爽口，適 合簡單地與麵食或含蕃茄為材料的菜式配搭，或於辛勞工作 後邊看着日落邊喝着這酒。
73 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong +852 2167 8883 info@divino.com.hk
Spasso Italian Bar Restaurant Terrace
G5-8, 12-17, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui East +852 2730 8027 info@spassoristorante-bar. com.hk winetimeshk.com 27
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TOP 10 er Summ Whites
十大夏日白酒 David Aristargos 2013 (Swartland, South Africa) A gem of a discovery at the recent “Discover South Africa” event at the Park Lane hotel, this wine is made by David and Nadia Sadie who are part of the ‘new generation’ of young inspirational winemakers in the Swartland region of South Africa. This wine is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Clairette and Rousanne and absolutely divine! Amazing fruit flavours make it more like a glass of Cape sunshine than a one dimensional wine, this is going to be a wine we may be drinking for years to come as although it’s fresh and fruity now, it has cellaring potential and will be very interesting to watch over time. Available from Vincisive in Hong Kong – www.vincisive.com.hk $250
這是近日在柏寧酒店舉行的南非葡萄酒展Discover South Africa上嚐到的美酒，由紮根於南非Swartland地 區的「新生代」釀酒師David和Nadia Sadie釀製。這酒 混合了Chenin Blanc、Viognier、Clairette及Rousanne 葡萄品種，絕對是一枝絕美的葡萄酒！其果味香得令人 驚奇，就像喝下一杯開普敦的陽光一般，不似是單向葡 萄酒。現在喝這酒會嚐到它的清新果味，但它也有着可 陳擺的素質，因此將會是款多年也想喝到的葡萄酒，試 試其中有趣的變化。 本港酒零售商Vincisive有售 www.vincisive.com.hk $250
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 2012 (Languedoc, France) A wine hailing from a region of France that makes more wines than are produced in Australia, the Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc is an eclectic blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Petite Manseng and Viognier from arguably the best producer in the region. Contrary to the mass-produced wines of the Languedoc, Mas de Daumas Gassac make wines in a boutique style that are a true representation of the grape varieties. There is a touch of sweetness on the palate that makes it appealing to both sexes and it’s a wine that would be perfect just sitting out on the patio during a sunny weekend afternoon. Our favourite white wine from France at the moment!! Available from Altaya Wines in Hong Kong – www.altayawines.com $360
這酒產自法國最受人歡迎的產區，其出產的葡萄酒甚 至比整個澳洲出產的還要多──Languedoc。它混合了 Chardonnay、Chenin Blanc、Petite Manseng和Viognier葡萄，能夠混合出這樣別樹一格的，令人有理由相 信其酒莊可能是該區最佳的生產商。Mas de Daumas Gassac酒莊與一般位於Languedoc的酒莊不同，非以大 規模生產的形式釀酒，反之以精品酒莊形式經營，其釀 造的葡萄酒能夠真正反映出葡萄品種的特質。酒在口腔 中帶有一點甜味，不論男女也會喜愛這種甜度。幻想在 一個放晴的周末下午坐在露台上，享受着陽光及這酒實 是完美。這是我們目前最喜愛的法國葡萄酒！！ 本港酒零售商Altaya Wines有售 www.altayawines.com $360 winetimeshk.com 29
Top 10 Summer Whites Portal da Calcada Vinho Verde DOC Reserva 2013 (Vinho Verde, Portugal) We think that Hong Kong is desperately missing quality Portuguese wines – probably because the city cannot compete with the prices of the wines in Macau – but this wine is available and we love it!! Vinho Verde may have a stigma of cheap and weedy but this Reserva is far from that! A wine with a great body arguably made for food but is easily drinkable without it. We can see ourselves sitting on the coast of the Algarve drinking this wine with some grilled sardines and fresh seafood such as clams. Not your everyday grape varietals (Loureiro, Arinto, Azal and Trajadura) the wine shows citrus, grapefruit and apple notes making it super-refreshing and definitely one for the summer. Available from Adega Royale – www.adegaroyale.com $100
Marqués de Caceres Deusa Nei Albariño 2012 (Rias Baixas, Spain) Albariño may not be everyone’s first choice of white grape but those that have never tried it are missing out on something special! Additionally the Spanish region of Rias Baixas is probably one of the hardest to pronounce too! But, it is the epicentre of Spanish white wine production and for us makes wines that are just designed for sitting out in the summer sun. Crisp, fresh, refreshing, citrus notes lend the wine perfectly to all kinds of fresh and simple seafood but the wine is really one that you can just sit and drink all day with friends. There is a touch of sweetness that makes the wine highly addictive but it’s not sweet not does it have a high sugar content; it’s just a wonderful fruity addictive white wine! Available from Kedington Wines in Hong Kong – www.kedingtonwines.com $110
我們覺得香港市面上有質素的葡萄牙葡萄酒選擇不多， 可能因為在價格方面難與鄰近的澳門競爭吧，但這酒不 僅在港有售，我們更愛喝它！釀自葡萄牙Vinho Verde的 葡萄酒可能蒙上便宜而難以入喉的污名，但這枝Reserva 卻完全不同！其酒體厚度適中，可能是為配搭食物而釀 造的餐酒，但同時也可輕易獨酌。躺在阿爾加維的海 邊，吃着烤沙甸魚、蜆等新鮮海鮮，喝着這酒，實是樂 事。這酒並非由常喝到的葡萄品種混合而成，其組合為 Loureiro、Arinto、Azal和Trajadura葡萄，帶有柑橘果 類、西柚及蘋果味，感覺清新至極，必然是夏日之選。
Albariño可能不是你的首選白酒，但從未嚐過這種葡萄 的可真的「走寶」了！順帶一提，西班牙的Rias Baixas 產區可能是眾多葡萄酒產區中最難發音的一個！可是， 這區是位於西班牙生產白酒的中央位置，也是釀造出適 合在夏日戶外享用的白酒產區。口感清新爽口，柑橘果 類令人心曠神怡，跟各種簡單煮法的海鮮配合不過，但 同樣也適合不配搭食物，可與一眾朋友喝上一整天。這 酒帶有一點甜，使人禁不住想要多喝幾杯—請放心，它 的甜並非高糖分的那種甜，只是充滿果味而極吸引人的 美酒！
本港酒零售商Adega Royale有售 www.adegaroyale.com $100
本港酒零售商Kedington Wines有售 www.kedingtonwines.com $110
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十大夏日白酒 Villiera Bush Vine Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Stellenbosch, South Africa) Now there’s no secret that we are not fans of Sauvignon Blanc here but this South African Sauvignon Blanc is not like the typical one dimensional Sauvignon Blancs from other ‘New World’ wine producing countries. It’s a wine to put on ice and sit and drink while you watch the world go by – or just watch all the beautiful people wearing next to nothing on the beach! It’s got some stunning fruit characters but not the intensity that is found in other Sauvignon Blancs; it’s much more elegant and does not tire out the palate with uninspiring fruit flavours. There are more stone fruits such as peach and pear that makes this crisp refreshing white one of our certain favourites. Without a doubt South Africa’s best Sauvignon Blanc and one that will really go down well this summer. Available from Wine N Things in Hong Kong – www.winenthingshk.com $132
我們對Sauvignon Blanc沒有特別熱情愛戴是個公開的秘 密，但這枝釀自南非的Sauvignon Blanc卻不像一般單向 的新世界Sauvignon Blanc。如果要為這酒設一個最佳享 用的場合，我會把酒放在冰桶裏，邊喝邊看世界流動， 又或是看點更好看的景色—美女如雲的沙灘。這酒的果 味突出，但並非一般Sauvignon Blanc的那種濃烈，而是 更加優雅，不致令口腔只剩下沉悶果味。有核果類成為 口味的主調，例如香桃和啤梨，口感亦清新宜人，難怪 我們喜歡上這枝南非最佳的Sauvignon Blanc，夏天白酒 名單上的確少不了它！ 本港酒零售商Wine N Things有售 www.winenthingshk.com $132
Cordero di Montezemolo Arneis 2012 (Langhe, Barolo, Italy) The Italian region of Barolo is better known for its red wines but the region also makes some quality whites from the indigenous white varietal Arneis. Most certainly not everyone’s first choice of grape and more likely that many have not heard of it or tried it before but this wine is a great wine for summer foods. It’s perfect for fresh salads, chicken and cold pasta salads whilst the acidity in the wine makes it great with dishes such as tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella. The wine is quite intense and has notes of peach and has a floral backbone of white flowers. Quite a complex wine and not one for quaffing, this is most definitely a food wine and should be treated with a certain amount of respect. Available from Sarment in Hong Kong – kim.yeung@ sarmentwine.com
意大利Barolo產區的紅酒比白酒較為聞名，但這區也 出產一些以Arneis葡萄釀造的高質素白酒。這種葡萄顯 然不是眾人的首選，而且許多人也未曾嚐過，甚至聽也 未聽過，但這酒很適合夏天食物，例如田園沙律、烤雞 沙律或冷麵沙律，而酒的酸度也與蕃茄和水牛芝士很配 搭。這酒散發着香桃及小白花的香氣，層次較為複雜， 不宜大杯大杯地吞下去，反之是枝餐酒，該為它配上好 的食物才算是懂得賞識這酒。 本港酒零售商Sarment有售 kim.yeung@sarmentwine.com
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Top 10 Summer Whites Herdade da Marotiera Cem Reis Viognier 2013 (Alentejo, Portugal)
Espelt Vailet Macabeu Garnacha Blanca 2014 (DO Emporda, Spain)
Maybe you are beginning to realise that at Wine Times we are fans of Viognier – and that there are very few ‘commercial’ styles of wine on this list! But, the Cem Reis is one wine that we could not leave off this list as it’s packed full of tropical fruit notes that remind us of being on holiday (and we will be soon!!). There’s pineapple and passion fruit on the palate of this exceptionally easy drinking wine but is balanced out with fine acidity and a rich minerality. Wines from the Alentejo region of Portugal are really yet to be discovered in Hong Kong but we think that once you’ve tried this you’ll be won over and start looking for more gems from this exceptional Portuguese region.
Another gem from Spain but from different grape varietals (Macabeu and Garnacha Blanc) this fresh wine is exactly what we expect from a ‘beach wine’. This is the kind of wine you can drink by the case and is perfect for parties, picnics and junk trips. Nothing complicated about it at all it is easy drinking, youthful and fun. It has a lovely palate of crisp fruit and is one that refreshing and will ‘beat the heat’ this summer. There are hints of pineapple on the palate but the overriding fruit character is fresh green apple. This is a no nonsense wine that you and your friends will enjoy quaffing all afternoon; so what are you waiting for? Go and book that junk trip and order a case of this wine!
Available from Palatium Fine Wines (Macau) – www.palatiumwines.com $200
可能你慢慢就會知道WTHK其實是Viognier白酒的「fan 屎」！這種酒中屬商業化的只有少數，而Cem Reis就 屬於多數，因此我們不能不推介呢！這酒有着滿滿的熱 帶果味，令人聯想到輕鬆的假期(我們快要去度假了！) 這枝帶有菠蘿和熱情果味的白酒非常易飲，而酸度恰好 又帶礦物味，使整體平衡。葡萄牙Alentejo產區的葡萄 酒，算不上為香港人熟悉，不過當你嚐過這產區的酒 後，相信你會想要再試更多來自這區的葡萄酒。 澳門酒零售商Palatium Fine Wines有售 www.palatiumwines.com $200
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Available from Finessa in Hong Kong – www.finessa. com.hk
同樣來自西班牙，但這枝白酒由另一些葡萄品種 (Macabeu與Garnacha Blanc)所釀製，其清新口感肯定 了它是屬於沙灘的白酒。這一款酒你可以喝上一箱共12 枝，不論是派對、野餐，還是「船P」，這酒也十分適 合，因為它容易入喉，是青春有趣的種類，想也不用想 就可以把酒喝下去了。這酒的口感爽脆，果味清新，主 要為青蘋果，也尾隨點點菠蘿，相信可以擊退炎夏的熱 力。這是枝「不要想，只要喝」的白酒，可讓你與朋友 們「鏗杯再鏗杯」。還在等甚麼？現在就預訂遊艇，更 少不了一兩箱這款白酒，來辦一個海上派對吧！ 本港酒零售商Finessa有售 www.finessa.com.hk
十大夏日白酒 Sartori Marani di Verona 2012 (Verona, Italy)
Ixsir Altitudes White 2013 (Bekaa Valley, Lebanon)
Hailing from the city of Verona – the city of love if you are into the romance of stories such as Romeo and Juliet – this is a wine that one can easily fall in love with. Made by renown Amarone producer Sartori, this is a wine we fell for upon visiting the winery last summer and even though it was a horrible rainy day, we still found the sunshine that’s present in the glass through the gloomy weather than marred our visit. Made from the indigenous Garganega grape, the Marani has aromas of ripe fruit and honey with a palate that is sexy smooth and leaves a long tropical style finish. Again, as an Italian wine it is best paired with food – but doing that is easy as it’s available in C!ty’super stores around the city; so when you are there picking up the groceries for dinner tonight, swing by the wine section and pick up a bottle or two of Marani – you won’t regret it and may even fall in love with it yourself!
Lebanese wines are steadily increasing in popularity in the city these days as much for their ability to match with a varied array of foods as they are for their easy drinking nature which is seen in this excellent Ixsir Altitudes White. A blend of Muscat, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon this eclectic mix of grapes that often go into making sweet wines give this wine an intensity that is matched by no other white we have tried from Lebanon. The aromas are like a bunch of fresh mixed flowers and on the palate the wine is tropical. Not one to be consumed quickly, this is a proper wine that should be sipped slowly through the afternoon but definitely worthy of a second or third bottle as you watch the sun go down across the bay and contemplate what to do for dinner. Overall, an outstanding white wine. Available from Red Mill in Hong Kong – www.redmillhk.com $220
Available from C!ty’super $138
來自意大利浪漫之都維羅納(Verona)，也許你也會像羅 密歐與茱麗葉的相遇般愛上這枝白酒。這酒產自著名釀 造Amarone紅酒的Sartori酒莊，我們去年夏天曾到訪酒 莊，一試便愛上了它。猶記得當天下着大雨，但杯中的 陽光把壞天氣都遮蓋了，鬱悶的情緒一掃而空。這枝白 酒由當地原生Garganega葡萄所釀造，入口滿戴熟果、 蜜糖的香甜，口感性感地順滑，餘韻長而給予人熱帶感 覺。再重申一點，意大利葡萄酒最好在配搭食物下享 用—這可容易了，因為它在C!ty'super超市有售，你可在 選購晚餐食材時，順道到酒架上挑選一、兩枝Marani， 你定不會後悔的，更可能會愛上它！ C!ty'super有售 $138
在香港，黎巴嫩葡萄酒的人氣逐步提升，主要因為 其容易入喉的特質，能夠配上各種類型的食物，而 Ixsir Altitudes White就反映了其特質。這白酒混合了 Muscat、Viognier、Sauvignon Blanc及 Semillon葡 萄，像是甜酒的葡萄組合，令這酒在其他黎巴嫩白酒面 前更顯得無與倫比。酒的香氣就像一束混合着不同品種 的鮮花，而味道則為熱帶果味。這酒不宜匆匆地飲用， 反而該於一個下午慢慢細意品嚐，或許你更會喝上第 二、三枝去迎接日落，想想為晚飯作何打算。簡而言 之：高質優秀的白酒。 本港酒零售商Red Mill有售 www.redmillhk.com $220
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Champion Sommelier Talks Hokkaido Cuisine 侍酒師談北海道美饌佳餚
A
s the Chef Sommelier of a famous Michelin-starred restaurant in Hong Kong and Champion Sommelier HK 2006 John Chan knows good food, and this extends past European continental cuisine. In particular, John is well-versed with the delicacies of Hokkaido, Japan, a destination he frequents regularly. But, other than just the most well-known foods (king crab, Hokkaido hairy crab, sea urchin and ramen) John told me that western dishes there are far more wonderful and splendid than what we could ever imagine. 為米芝蓮兩星餐廳的首席侍酒師兼2006 身 年香港侍酒師冠軍得主，陳裕康(John Chan)的飲食品味當然無庸置疑。John喜歡到 日本北海道尋訪美食，他向我指出除了長腳 蟹、毛蟹、海膽和拉麵之外，北海道的飲食文 化多元化的程度，遠超乎我所想像，其中西式 餐飲更是精彩。
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Conway: What kind of delicacies do you like the most in Hokkaido? 北海道有哪種美食是我們不能錯過的？ John: Hokkaido, richly endowed by nature, is a land of plenty. In addition to seafood, their vegetables are excellent; for example, the red fleshed melons from Yubari and the green fleshed melons from Furano are lovely specialities with very high levels of sweetness. Corn is another specialty adored by all. Corn from Hokkaido is so sweet, it can even be served as one of the main ingredients for dessert, something unfathomable for Hong Kong chefs. Potatoes and asparagus are also popular. John：當地環境得天獨厚，天然資源非常豐富，除了一 般海產外，蔬果更是不能錯過的一環，例如來自夕張的 赤肉蜜瓜和富良野的綠肉蜜瓜。這兩種蜜瓜的甜度都非 常高，肉質細嫰，品質一流。粟米亦同樣出色，它的甜 度之高甚至可作甜品的主要材料，這是香港廚師不能想 像的。此外，馬鈴薯和露筍等，同樣不能錯過。 Conway: Hong Kongers like visiting Hokkaido in Winter or Summer because of the beautiful snow scenes and flower fields. What about you? Which is your favourite season? 港人多選擇冬季到北海道賞雪，又或是在夏季賞花，你 又喜歡甚麼時候的北海道？ John: Actually winter is not a good season for travelling in Hokkaido because the days are too short. Driving on a dark snowy night is very dangerous for those who do not know the environment well. For me, I like going to Hokkaido in June because it is the best season for those melons aforementioned and for many of the fruits. John：事實上冬季是當地的淡季，因為除了賞雪之外， 旅遊活動都因天氣關係有很大的限制。我最喜歡6月的北 海道，因為那時是蜜瓜和其他特產的當造期，可讓我大 飽口福。 Conway: You told me once that western cuisine in Hokkaido is also very exciting, please elaborate. 以我所知，你十分欣賞當地的西餐，可以向我們介紹一 下嗎？ John: French and Italian cuisines do very well there as they have good, fresh ingredients. Most of the chefs doing western cuisine in Hokkaido are Japanese who have trained in France or Italy, so they are as good as foreign chefs. Although the prices for a meal in some of those restaurants inside hotels may be a bit more expensive, many of Hokkaido’s Michelin-starred restaurants charge very reasonable prices, with many charging even lower prices than those of similar venues in Hong Kong. Nowadays, this is more so because the Japanese yen has dropped a lot, making spending in Japan much more affordable. As for wine lists, although they are not as large as those in Hong Kong, Burgundy listings there are far wider than those for other kinds of wine since the Japanese have a special fondness for this wine region. Thus, you may find on your travels there some rare Burgundies or old vintages. John：北海道的法國菜和意大利菜十分出色，原因是材 料新鮮、選擇繁多。那邊的餐廳多由日本廚師主理，他 們的手藝絕不遜於法、意廚師。價錢方面則豐儉由人， 由於近日日圓匯率低企，所以有不少高質素低價格的上 好選擇。葡萄酒的選擇則稍不及香港，但由於日本人偏 好勃艮地口味，所以勃艮地酒的選擇均十分齊全，甚至 可找到不少珍貴年份。
Conway: Any recommendations on dining establishments for us? 可否為我們推介你的心水餐廳？ John: Sure. You can find one at Lake Kussharo. In a hotel named Sora, the French restaurant inside is one of my favourites, as both the food and the environment there are outstanding. The restaurant is famous for its hearty stewed and braised dishes, but the seafood there is also superb. As for atmosphere, with a large grassland area as big as our Hong Kong Stadium located just in front of the restaurant, the experience is unforgettable. I am amazed that I can enjoy such top quality cuisine amongst such scenery. One time I had lunch there, I saw a reindeer appear on the grasslands right before my eyes. Another French restaurant I suggest is Saveur located in Sapporo. Their game dishes like venison, bear meat or wild boar are cooked to perfection. Last time, I tried their Beef Rossini (beef tournedos panfried in butter, served on a crouton, and topped with a hot slice of fresh whole foie gras briefly pan-fried at the last minute), the Chef instead of placing onto the beef a whole piece of foie gras, simply shaved on some thin flakes onto the piece of Wagyu beef from Takachi. The foie gras, on impact with the hot beef simply melted all over the meat’s surface, soaking directly into the substance. There are no words that can capture this divine experience! John：位於屈斜路湖的一家酒店Sora，這間餐廳無論食 物抑或環境，絕對是夢幻一般的選擇。餐廳擅長法國的 鄉村菜式，例如煲或燴，魚的處理亦非常出色。餐廳前 面是一幅面積有如香港大球場的大草原，上次我到餐廳 用膳，有一隻野生馴鹿曾在我面前經過。另外，札幌市 內一家名為Saveur的法國餐廳，處理黃麖、熊肉和野豬 等野味也十分出眾。上次嚐過的鵝肝拼牛扒，大廚在十 勝和牛上刨了點鵝肝茸，鵝肝受熱力所迫而溶入到牛肉 之中，那種滋味實在難以形容。 winetimeshk.com 35
“Serious” Drinking at the Sevens 香港國際七人欖球賽上 「認真」暢飲
Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 譯文：Christie Chan 攝影：Ali Nicol
T
he Hong Kong Rugby Sevens is infamous around the world for its party atmosphere and although it is better known for its consumption of beer there is also approximately 10,000 glasses of wine consumed over the event too. This year, with our press pass in hand we headed out into the crowds to see if we could find some decent drops of wine that were worth fighting our way through the melee in the South Stand for and to our surprise we managed to find a good few glasses both inside and outside of the stadium that made this year’s Sevens most memorable. Starting on the Friday night, we headed up to the Executive Level and into one of the exclusive boxes for a taste of some wines from the U.S.A. The wines in fact come from Californian winery Ca’del Grevino and over the course of the evening we were fortunate enough to taste three of their wines; the White Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Of the three the Chardonnay was our favourite as it has a great balance of fruit and 36 winetimeshk.com
acidity and, whilst looking down on the sports below and the humidity rising, it was the perfect way to kick off our favourite sporting event. Saturday is the day where alcohol consumption is at its highest and also the day when the South Stand comes alive in all its fancy dress glory – in fact this year a record was set for the stand being completely full before 8:30am! We always think it’s advisable to avoid the area on the Saturday and best to observe from a distance! However one area that cannot be avoided – and where we headed to after a long day cheering on Scotland – was the Louis Roederer Champagne tent located in the Indian Recreation Club just opposite the stadium. Bargain priced Louis Roederer Champagne was on offer and while DJ’s spun some wicked tunes, it was easy for 7pm to suddenly become 1am and we realised we had consumed rather a lot of the bubbly stuff! The Sunday is amusing as it takes a while for many revellers to make it there and the stadium seems half
到世界各地最具歡樂派對氣氛的體育賽 數 事，必定有香港國際七人欖球賽的份 兒。雖然被海量消耗的是啤酒，但場內觀眾同
時也喝下了約10,000杯的葡萄酒。WTHK今 年以傳媒身分進場，為讀者尋找值得你於南看 台上「左穿右插」，跟狂熱觀眾混戰一番後才 買得到的葡萄酒──而我們在場內場外也嚐到 了，可真是一個驚喜。 一連三天的賽事中，我們先在星期五晚上獲 邀到廂房層的其中一個包廂內，嚐到了釀自 美國加州Ca’del Grevino酒莊的葡萄酒， 整晚嚐到了共3款美酒，分別是White Riesling、Chardonnay及Pinot Noir。當中，我 們最喜愛的就是果味酸度平衡的Chardonnay，而在又濕又熱的環境下喝到一口清涼， 於欣賞賽事的同時，也能擁有味覺上的享受。 星期六一向是消耗酒精最多的一天，也是觀眾 以奇裝異服「盛裝上陣」的一天，而本屆賽事 的星期六更破了歷屆的紀錄：觀眾席於早上 8時半前已爆滿！我們常認為星期六避免坐在 擠人的區域，最好在遠距離觀賞賽事，不過， 有個地方是不能錯過的──Louis Roederer帳 篷！它位於場館對面的印度遊樂會，現場有DJ 打碟把氣氛推得高漲，而Louis Roederer香檳 亦以優惠價發售，樂而忘返的我們在離開時才 發現已是凌晨1時，更喝下了不少香檳呢！ 星期日的賽事日是有趣的一天，因為不少觀眾 在昨日整天狂歡後，個個也費了不少氣力才到
empty until past lunch time. Taking the opportunity to roam around a little while the stadium was a little quieter, we headed to the Jebsen box to taste a New Zealand from Sacred Hill Winery that, in all honesty was the perfect remedy for the excesses of the night before and, with the sun shining down on us was a rather refreshing way to start the day. We give New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc quite a lot of stick on our website, but this was a most welcome glass at a most opportune time! So, this year we managed to prove that Hong Kong’s biggest party is not just all about beer – although many rugby fans would disagree; some say it’s all about the rugby, some say it’s all about the atmosphere and some say it’s all about the beer… we think it’s all of the above but also about making new friends and finding new wines! The Sevens 2015 will be remembered for some great wines that we tried and yes, we can remember who won; so congratulations to Fiji on yet another success and we look forward to making new discoveries in 2016! Thanks to Elite Step Asia Limited for making our Sevens weekend possible and thanks to all who took the time and effort to make the great wines we tasted over the course of the weekend available.
抵大球場，直到午飯後觀眾席 才坐滿了人。趁着早上場內氣 氛較靜，我們決定到處遊走， 途中在Jebsen攤位上喝到了 來自紐西蘭Sacred Hill酒莊釀 造的Sauvignon Blanc。對於 昨晚多喝了的我們而言，這酒 實在是最佳的「良藥」，在陽 光普照下喝着它更感清新。雖 然WTHK網站上載有不少對紐 西蘭的Sauvignon Blanc負面 評價，但它卻是這一刻最受人 歡迎的一款白酒！ 這一年，我們親身見證了在香 港最盛大的派對上並不只有 啤酒，儘管許多球迷對此不 認同，有人會認為欖球才是 主角，也有人認為場內氣氛才 是最重要，更有人認為一切只 關乎啤酒。不過，我們會選擇 「以上皆是」，同時也是認識 新朋友、嚐到葡萄酒佳釀的好 時機！我們將會記住香港國際 七人欖球賽2015中嚐到的好 酒，也會記得捧盃隊伍的光榮 ──恭喜斐濟隊！除了寄望各 隊伍下屆能全力以赴發揮出超 水準外，我們也期望在場館上 找到更多的美酒。 本年度賽事得以順利進行，有 賴Elite Step Asia Limited所 作的努力，也感謝所有花盡時 間心思去釀造在場上嚐到的美 酒，造就了這個精彩的周末。
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Chef Talk: Frederic Chabbert of Mano
主廚出廳：法國菜餐廳Mano的Frederic Chabbert
Mano
Address: G/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Road Central 地址：中環皇后大道中139號The L. Place 地下 Tel: 2399 0737
Text by Ali Nicol
譯文：Christie Chan
G
reat chefs that cook their own food in Hong Kong are few and far between these days with more ‘celebrity’ chefs putting their names to restaurants without ever having set foot in the kitchens which go by their name. One that is still found on the pass or behind the stove creating sumptuous delights is French Chef Frederic Chabbert who, after leaving the illustrious Petrus in the Island Shangri-La, has transformed Mano (Ground Floor, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong) from a coffee shop into a destination that many in Hong Kong are flocking too and whose reviews both online and by word of mouth have the insatiably hungry Hong Kong public literally queuing for a taste of his magic. Now a trendy brasserie-style of eatery, Frederic has put his mark on the menu which now serves both intimate lunch and dinners in a la carte and 38 winetimeshk.com
tasting menu formats. Voted in the Top 20 Restaurants in the city by Tatler here in Hong Kong recently, the brasserie serves food that “reflects the chef’s personality” whilst also accommodating the huge lunch rush that takes place in the area – serving set lunches for $280 plus 10%. Wine Times wanted to speak to the chef who is the latest “talk of the town” and find out more about his life in the industry and how he first became inspired to be a chef. So, in between the madness of lunch and dinner service we sat down with the whimsical Frenchman to talk wine, cooking and how it all got started. Mano is open for lunch from Monday to Friday from 12pm to 3pm and 10am to 5pm on Saturdays. Dinner is served Monday to Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. For inquiries and reservations call +852 2399 0737
香港，比起掛名開一間又一間的餐廳， 在 但卻從未踏進過該些餐廳廚房半步的「 名廚」，真正的為食客設計餐單，以個人風 格去煮出美食的好廚師少之又少。但是，你仍 可找到一位在爐頭埋頭苦幹的好廚師—法藉 廚師Frederic Chabbert。他在離開香格里拉 酒店之下赫赫有名的法國菜珀翠餐廳(Petrus) 後，將位於中環、本為咖啡店的Mano搖身一 變成為許多食客不惜「大排長龍」的食肆，不 論網上食評或食客間的口碑都對其讚不絕口。
餐廳以小酒館形式經營，而餐牌經過Frederic 改良後，供應午餐或晚餐，食客也可單點各款 美食。Mano近日被香港及澳門高級餐飲指南 Tatler選為全港二十大頂尖食府之一，並指「 其菜式能反映廚師的個性」。有不少的中環上 班族也會於午飯時間「醫肚」，其午市套餐為 $280，另設加一服務費。 WTHK想與這位開辦這間「城中熱話」的餐 廳廚師聊聊，讓讀者可了解Frederic的廚師生 涯。在午飯及晚飯還未來到，廚房裏還是風平 浪靜之際，我們與他坐下來，談談他對葡萄 酒、廚藝的看法，也與我們分享他的個人經 歷。 Mano星期一至五午市時間為中午12時至下午 3時，星期六、日則為上午10時至下午5時； 星期一至六晚市時間為晚上6時至11時。查詢 或留座請電+852 2399 0737。
WTHK: What advice would you give young people aspiring to become a chef? 對於有意投身飲食業的年輕人，你會給予甚麼建議？ FRED: Don’t watch it and believe what’s on TV because this is not what’s really happening. Try to work in a small place like this first and see if you have the feeling for it. You must start at the bottom these days. Too often kids come in and tell you what they want to do; you have to pick the salad first, then we’ll see if you can make it or not. I remember my first internship when I was 13; I was already in cooking school but too young to work properly so I went to the Alsace for one month to a place which was really old school but had two Michelin stars…it was very tough I tell you. WTHK: Let’s begin by telling our readers a little about yourself… 為了讓讀者先了解你，請你介紹一下自己。 FRED: When I finished cooking school I headed to London for a couple of years and worked for a chef who had worked with Alain Ducasse in Monaco before. I spent two years in London and loved it but asked my chef if he could send me to Monaco – which he did! I spent four years there which was great but hard work! From there I headed for almost two years to San Francisco to work as a sous-chef where I was then hired as a head chef by Shangri-La in Kuala Lumpur. From there I ended up here in Hong Kong – where I worked for the Shangri-La for 8 years. Fred：當我在廚藝學校畢業後，我到倫敦跟一位曾於摩 納哥與名廚Alain Ducasse(擁有三間米芝蓮三星餐廳) 合作的大廚工作，兩年間，我熱愛我的工作，也很享受 在倫敦的時間，但有次我向該名大廚提出希望到摩納哥 學習的意願，而他替我實現了！我在那裏辛勞工作4年 後，轉而到美國三藩市當了兩年副總廚，及後被香格里 拉集團聘請到吉隆坡擔任總廚。輾轉之間，我來到了香 港，在這裏為香格里拉集團工作了整整8年。 WTHK: What was the inspiration to become a chef? 你如何受啟發想要成為一名廚師？ FRED: If you are French you are cooking from birth!! But, seriously, I always wanted to be a chef; there’s nothing too exciting about how it happened honestly – it didn’t appear out of the sky and neither did I wake up one day with an epiphany; there’s no crazy story about how it happened! I was not very good at school and found that I was good at cooking so there you have it! I also hated mathematics!! Fred：如果你是法國人，自出生起你便懂得下廚！但真 的，我一直以來都想要當廚師；然而老實說，我成為廚師 的經過並沒甚麼特別—肯定不是「天外天」的故事；也 不是天主顯靈，指示我要當廚師的故事；實在不是個有趣 動人的故事！我小時的學校成績不算好，又發現我廚藝不 錯，之後發生的你也猜到了吧！我還真討厭數學！ WTHK: Long hours, short holidays, big stress: Is it all worth it? 工時長、假期短、壓力大，這一切都值得嗎？ FRED: Sometimes, yes! Sometimes, no! But it all depends; I am lucky to get to try fantastic wines from fantastic vintages and you can see your guests enjoying the whole food and wine experience; sometimes, it can be kind of magical. Fred：有時候，值得！有時候，不值得！一切也說不 定；我幸運地能嚐到各個年份的美酒佳釀，能夠看到客 人非常享受食物與葡萄酒的結合，有時候，這就如神奇 的魔法般。
Fred：既不要看也不要相信從電視上看到的，只因現 實世界並非那般。試在一間小餐廳工作看看，想清楚自 己是否喜歡這樣的工作。「由低做起」是今天簡單的道 理；有些年輕人來到我們這裏，告訴我們他們想做些甚 麼，然而你必需由揀沙律菜開始，然後我們會評估你是 否適合在廚房裏工作。我還記得我初次當實習生時的情 形：當時我只得13歲，正在就讀廚藝學校，由於我太過 年輕，還不能擔任正式的工作，我只好到阿爾薩斯(Alsace)一家舊風格但獲米芝蓮兩星的餐廳實習，過了那 難捱的一個月… WTHK: What does wine add to a good meal? 葡萄酒對一頓美味的飯起了甚麼作用？ FRED: For the French wine is an integral part of the meal. Personally, I can eat without drinking but if it’s a proper meal with the family and there is no wine, then we might as well have a sandwich! But it does depend on the style of food – for example if you have Beef Bourguignon then without wine the meal is not complete; it’s missing the exciting part! Fred：對法國人而言，葡萄酒是一頓飯不可或缺的部 分。個人來說，我可以吃飯時不喝酒；但如果與整家人 坐下來吃一頓正當的飯，而餐桌上沒有一枝葡萄酒，大 概我們只是在吃三明治吧！但是，這視乎食物的烹調方 法，如果吃紅酒燉牛肉時不配上紅酒，這頓飯便變得不 完整，也缺少了令人興奮的元素！ WTHK: Do you have a preference for a style of wine yourself? 你對何種風格的葡萄酒有所偏好？ FRED: Right now I think I am in a transition period – mid life crisis!! No seriously, I like Australian wines but only when they are very good and luckily I have Antoine here – my maitre d – to help me with finding them. I love American wines because I learned how to appreciate them while I was in San Francisco. I was a lover of Bordeaux when I was younger but now I am more into Burgundy. But I heard this is more normal for men; to start with Bordeaux because they want something more powerful and then move away to Burgundy. But really, I enjoy any kind of wine as long as I think it’s good! Fred：我認為現在的我正處於過度期──中年危機！不 是的，我喜歡澳洲葡萄酒，但必需要是頂尖優質的，而 幸運地我們的餐廳經理Antoine與我並肩工作，替我們 找到不少澳洲佳釀。我也愛喝美國葡萄酒，因為我待在 三藩市時學懂如何欣賞葡萄酒。在我年輕的時候，我曾 是Bordeaux的愛好者，但現在較喜歡Burgundy。但 我聽說，這對男人而言乃正常現象，先喜歡較具力量的 Bordeaux，然後再轉向到Burgundy。不過，只要葡萄 酒合我口味，任何種類的我也很享受！ winetimeshk.com 39
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Macau:
Text & Photography by Ali Nicol 譯文：Christie Chan 攝影：Ali Nicol
M
acau is getting more and more renowned for its culinary food scene, as much for the quality of its Portuguese food these days as for its plethora of international styles of cuisines that are available in some of the world class hotels that the former Portuguese colony offers. One thing about the Macau dining scene that is setting it apart from some of Hong Kong’s top restaurants is its service inside the restaurants and being greeted at the door of Dynasty 8 in the Conrad hotel one immediately gets the feeling that you are in for a truly special and memorable experience. Happy friendly and smiling staff escorted us to our table for what would turn out to be one of the finest Chinese meals had in the region in a long time. Dynasty 8 is, essentially, Chinese fine dining. It’s hard to say that there is a regional speciality to it as it incorporates the full flavours of all the regions of China on a menu that makes one’s mouth water just thinking about ordering. The internal décor is lavish and reminiscent of old China
A Memorable Epicurean Journey at Dynasty 8
澳門：樂而忘返之「朝」旅
but with welcoming warmth and a feeling of luxury that immediately makes one comfortable as soon as soon as one is seated. The restaurant also boasts 8 private dining rooms whose décor represent 8 dynasties; Qin, Han, Sui, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing. Perusing the wine list, it would be hard to not go crazy as it’s full of some amazing wines and excellent from both the old and new world. The most striking thing considering that one is in a five star hotel is the prices – they are not earth shattering, in fact, they are probably 15+% cheaper than they are in Hong Kong and this gives you the opportunity to push the boat out a bit and order something special. The necessary Bordeaux is present, but there is a great range of other French regions from the Languedoc to the Rhone with a great selection in both red and white. Of course, Portugal features on the list too with reds from the Dao and Douro alongside simple whites from Vinho Verde and more complex whites from Alentejo. Wines from Italy, Spain, New Zealand, Australia and the
Dynasty 8 朝
Address: Level 1, Conrad Macao, Cotai Central 地址：澳門金沙城中心康萊德酒店1樓 Tel. 電話: +853 8113 8920 門餐飲業的發展艷光四射，葡國菜餐廳 澳 的質素愈見趨升，酒店內的多國菜餐廳 亦愈開愈多。其中一點與香港不同的是，香港 餐飲業人員的服務態度與質素遠不及澳門；一 踏進於康萊德酒店內的中菜館「朝」(Dynasty 8)，你便立即受到帶位員殷勤的接待，讓你 感覺自己是位特別的賓客，將會體驗到一次難 忘的用餐經驗。彬彬有禮且笑容可掬的侍應生 領我們到座位上，我們亦準備好享受一頓久未 嚐到的高級中菜。
基本上，「朝」是高級的中菜館，但難以細分 是中菜中的哪個地方的菜，全因餐牌上囊括了 中國南北東西的地方菜式，只是讀讀餐牌，想 想點叫哪一道菜已經令人垂涎三尺。餐廳室內 的裝潢以古代中國作為主題，盡顯奢華貴氣， 加上熱情有禮的招待，使食客心情加倍愉快。 餐廳設有8個私人包廂，分別以中國歷史上8 個著名朝代來命名，包括秦、漢、隋、唐、 宋、元、明、清。 從侍應生手上接過酒單，難以不因其選擇之多 而感到興奮，當中包括了舊世界及新世界的優 winetimeshk.com 41
America’s are also top of the range and compliment what is an exceptional wine list with a wide range to choose from. But, it’s the food we were really there for having heard such good things from fellow gourmands that have visited Dynasty 8 and spoke ever so highly of the cuisine available there. We started off with some Roast Pork Belly (MOP82) which was juicy and succulent and an outstanding way to kick off the meal and was swiftly followed up by a cold dish of Marinated mixed seafood – red jelly fish head, sea cucumber, sea conch, prawns and cuttlefish – in vinegar (MOP98) which was strangely good (it’s not normally something we would eat) but goes exquisitely with a nice glass of crisp fresh white wine. If you are a crab lover then the Crisp Fried Crab Claw with Five Spices and Garlic Pepper (MOP298) is a dish that’s not to be missed. A huge claw, packed with meat adorns the plate and is honestly one of the best crab dishes we have had in a long time; there’s just enough spice to give it a kick, but not so much that you are left gasping for water or so much that it kills the flavours of the wine you are drinking - or the crab itself for that matter. Switching from white wine to red wine means a slight shift in dietary requirements thus we decided to give something Cantonese a try. We went with the Wok-fried Diced Wagyu Beef with Goose Liver and Beijing Leeks (MOP488) which we found delicious with tender, perfectly cooked beef complimented by flavoursome goose liver and a great match to the pair of wines from Spain and Portugal respectively. Following up the beef was Deep Fried Cumin Spiced Braised Lamb Shank with Crispy Fried Garlic (MOP200) which was an outstandingly well cooked dish which managed to retain the crispiness on the outside but the meat was still juicy and succulent on the inside – an absolute delight and yet another dish that pairs beautifully with wine. In fact, many of the dishes on the menu are super wine-friendly and overall make for a memorable food and wine experience.
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One factor that made the experience complete was the service which was nothing short of impeccable. Staff there speak a multitude of languages including English which is great as they are able to recommend and explain each dish in your preferred language as well as recommend wines to go with your food. Good service is so hard to find these days and when received is a breath of fresh air – so a big hand has to go to the staff at Dynasty 8 whose service competency made the night as memorable as the food and wine did. In all, if fine Chinese dining is your thing too then we can highly recommend Dynasty 8. For a culinary journey of China’s finest food look no further. The prices reflect the quality of the products and the cuisine most certainly, but that’s not to say that value for money cannot be found at Dynasty 8 – one of our most memorable Chinese dining experiences? We think so and will be returning there again for sure. Restaurants whose food (especially Chinese) that are mind-blowingly good at pairing with wines are certainly our thing and Dynasty 8 has nailed that – thus, we cannot wait to hop back on the ferry for another fantastic culinary journey through the foods of China and the wines of the world.
質佳釀。這是一間五星級酒店內的 中菜館，但其價格卻令人難以置 信—絕不是驚天殺價，事實上還比 同等質素的香港餐廳更便宜15%或 以上。趁着這樣的好機會，應點叫較 為特別的貨色，嚐嚐較少見的葡萄 酒。Bordeaux紅酒可謂每間餐廳的 必備，這裏也不例外，但它更供應許 多來自法國其他產區的葡萄酒，從 Languedoc到Rhone的紅、白酒任 君選擇。當然，酒單上也少不了葡萄 牙的葡萄酒，備有從Dao到Douro產 區的紅酒，同時也有從層次較為簡單 的Vinho Verde白酒，到較為複雜的 Alentejo白酒。產地選擇還包括意大 利、西班牙、紐西蘭、澳洲以及美國 等，範圍如此廣泛的酒單實在值得一 讚。 然而，美食才是我們的主角，暫且勿 讓葡萄酒搶盡風頭。由於身邊曾嚐過 「朝」的食評人無一不豎起拇指，才 吸引了我們到此一嚐真偽。我們先點 叫了宮廷脆皮火腩(MOP82)，肉質嫩 滑多汁，作為前菜會令人食指大動； 接下來的冷盤涼拌海鮮(紅蜇頭、海 參、螺片、蝦、墨魚仔)(MOP98) 是道有趣的菜式(我們平常不會吃這 樣的菜式)，配上一杯清新爽口的白 酒，味道將會更佳。 如果你愛吃蟹的話，原隻椒盬蟹鉗 (MOP298)是你必然之選，蟹鉗不單 巨型而肉質厚實，加上擺碟精緻美 觀，算得上是近來吃蟹最佳菜式之 一。蟹鉗辣度適中，剛好點綴了蟹肉 的鮮味，不致辣使你要灌水去沖淡辣 味，亦不會使你飲用葡萄酒時而不知
其味。 喝過白酒，當然是紅酒出場的時候， 也代表着所點叫的菜式該隨之而變 化。我們決定嚐一道廣東菜—鵝肝京 蔥和牛粒(MOP488)。和牛粒肉質細 嫩，鵝肝則味濃可口，整道菜分別與 西班牙及葡萄牙的紅酒也甚為配搭。 緊隨其被端到桌上的是紅燒小羊腿配 香蒜炸小茴香(MOP200)，火喉恰到 好處，肉質外脆內軟，又是一道能配 上美酒的佳餚。事實上，餐牌上的大 部分菜式也能輕易配上葡萄酒，讓你 能吃得開心之餘，也能喝得高興。 不得不提的是，對於締造這次愉快難 忘的用餐經驗，餐廳無可挑剔的服務 簡直是功不可沒。侍應生能操幾種語 言，當中包括英語，以客人聽得懂的 語言為其推介菜式與葡萄酒的配搭。 優秀的服務質素可謂「萬綠叢中一點 紅」，在此向當晚為我們服務過的員 工表示謝意，不僅美食令我們留下深 刻印象，你們的服務更讓我們留下美 好回憶。 若你特別偏好高級中菜，我們向你高 度推薦「朝」，其各式各樣的地方菜 讓你歷盡中國全境，而且其價格真實 地反映食物的質素，但這不代表其非 物有所值；是否其中一頓令人回味的 中菜體驗？是的，我們也肯定會再次 光臨。能夠如此輕易且完美地配上美 酒的中菜，絕對是我們的「那杯茶」 ，而「朝」確確實實做到了。我們恨 不得立刻跳上駛往澳門的渡輪，吃着 中國四方的菜，喝着世界各地的葡萄 酒，再度享受如此美妙的餐飲體驗。 winetimeshk.com 43
Whine-on: Ask us whatever you like! 讀者專欄：想問就問！
Have any doubts or questions about wine? Send us an email at md@winetimeshk.com or leave a message on our Facebook page at facebook.com/winetimeshk and we will bust the answer for you! 你有任何關於酒的疑問嗎？請寄電郵到md@winetimeshk.com或在我們的 Facebook 專頁facebook.com/winetimeshk留言，隨便發問！我們樂意為你解開 每個疑難！ Q1: How is ice wine made? – Pinky; Causeway Bay Answer: We guess you are a lover of sweet wine then Pinky!? Ice wine is rumoured to have been invented by the Romans although there is little evidence to back that up. In fact, its origins can be legitimately dated back to 1794 and to the town of Franconia in Germany. Ice wine is made from harvesting grapes while they are still frozen which means that the water in the grape is frozen. The sugars however do not freeze and thus they are more concentrated because there is no water mixed in with them. This concentration of sugars leaves a very sweet liquid that is then fermented to make ice wine. The most famous ice wines are found in Canada and Germany but there are rules and laws that go with the manufacturing of ice wine such as the grapes must be harvested at a temperature below -7°C. Additionally, to make a good ice wine you have to have a good balance of acidity from the fruit otherwise the wine will be too sickly sweet and unbearable on the palate – in the industry we call this “cloying”.
冰酒是如何釀造出來的？—Pinky；銅鑼灣
答： 我們猜這位讀者是甜酒的「擁躉」吧。有傳冰酒源於 羅馬人，但實質資料仍待查證，不過在歷史上，冰酒 確實地出現在1794年的德國小鎮法蘭哥尼亞(Franconia)。釀造冰酒需要收成結了冰的葡萄，亦即代表葡萄 內的水分結成冰，而當中的糖分卻未被凝結，加上不 會與已結成冰的水混和，大大濃縮了糖分。因此，葡 萄汁液變得更甜，用以發酵釀造冰酒。世界知名的冰 酒多數來自加拿大及德國，而有規定標明釀造冰酒的 葡萄，需在-7°C或以下的低溫下收成。另外，釀造冰 酒也講究葡萄的酸度平衡，否則酒會變得甜得難以入 口，行內稱這為「Cloying(發膩)」。
Q2: Can wines age in a screw cap? – Anna; Happy Valley 以扭蓋封瓶的葡萄酒可以陳擺嗎？—Anna；跑馬地
Answer: Good question Anna. In fact, many people believe that only wine sealed in cork can age well but in fact this is not true. Wines sealed with a screw cap will age but because there is less ability for the wine to oxidise then they will in fact age slower than wines sealed in cork (because the cork is in fact porous and allows a certain amount of air through it as the wine ages). Screw cap wine is generally thought to be made for wines that are meant to be drunk young and indeed this is often the case, however, in the 1970’s when the experiments were first done with screw cap on white wines in Australia, the whole point of the exercise was to see how wines could survive under screw cap. On the whole, a wine that is aged with a screw cap seal probably ages slower and thus will taste younger and fresher when it is opened. This allows you to enjoy the wine the way the winemaker intended it to be – with more fruit characters. 44 winetimeshk.com
答： 這是一個好問題。許多人認為只有以木塞封瓶的葡萄 酒才可以好好陳擺，但事實上這是不正確的。以扭蓋 封瓶的葡萄酒也有其陳釀過程，只是比以木塞封瓶的 葡萄酒較慢，因為以扭蓋封瓶的葡萄酒較不會與空氣 接觸，難以進行氧化，相反木塞中的細小氣孔能讓葡 萄酒與空氣有更多接觸。以扭蓋封瓶的葡萄酒被認為 需即時飲用，而情況亦多為這樣。不過，在1970年代 於澳洲進行的一個實驗中，研究以扭蓋封瓶白酒的陳 釀過程，發現酒經過陳擺後的確有變化，但由於過程 較慢，因此開瓶時仍較能保持其果味及清新感。這也 可讓你享受到釀酒師的精心設計──嚐到果味較濃的特 性。
Q3: Why do people swirl the wine in the glass before drinking it? – Mike; Tai Kok Tsui 為甚麼人們喝酒前習慣搖一搖酒杯，讓葡萄酒在酒杯中打轉？—Mike；大角咀
Answer: Well Mike, it certainly isn’t to look professional! For many people who taste wine, it becomes a force of habit whilst you hold the wine glass. As the centre of gravity is high up it is easy to swirl the wine while it is in your hand. What swirling the wine does is expose more of the wine to the air thus making the wine “open up” if it is a little bit closed. It also acts to allow the aromas to dissipate into the air meaning you can get more of the aromas from the wine as the wine is swirled around the glass. In fact, many in the industry believe you do not need to swirl the wine in the glass if the smells are already very pronounced – but it seems that the force of habit makes them still do it. But, fundamentally, it is really just to allow all those lovely aromas into the air so you can get more of them into your system and begin to understand what fruit characters the wine will have. Smelling a wine also give you an idea of whether the wine may be corked so you do not end up pouring out the wine and soiling all the other glasses around the table.
答： 這個習慣一定不是為了裝作專業！許多人嚐酒之前， 都有這個慣常動作。當酒杯在你手中時，其重心升 高，較容易搖晃酒杯。此動作主要為了讓葡萄酒與空 氣有更多接觸，從而使其產生更多變化，更可以散發 出更多酒的香氣。事實上，業內有許多人認為，如果 酒本身的香氣已非常明顯，根本無需再晃動酒杯中的 葡萄酒，而他們仍然這樣做只是因為其已成為慣常動 作。不過，搖晃酒杯可以讓你嗅覺接收到更多酒的香 氣，更清楚酒的果味特性。除此之外，嗅嗅酒香也可 助你判斷葡萄酒有否壞掉，使你不必把酒倒出來進行 判斷，免去了清洗酒杯的麻煩。
Q4: What is the best way to learn about wine? – George; Tai Po 哪種學習葡萄酒知識的方法最為有效？—George；大埔
Answer: We always like to think the best way to learn about anything George is to experience it for yourself. Teaching yourself about wine however can be difficult if you are starting from scratch and also can be an expensive endeavour as you may end up buying a whole bunch of wine that you don’t like! The best way to learn about wine in a restaurant is to ask the sommelier what he recommends and he will base the wine choice on the food you are ordering or he / she will ask you of your preference of tastes and pick a wine accordingly. But, in reality, the best way to learn about wine is to go to a wine class or seminar and learn more about it from a professional educator or experienced Master of Wine. There are many wine schools here in Hong Kong that offers wine education that comes with a qualification at the end of it. You can choose to do one of the levels of the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust (WSET) so for complete beginners you can start at level 1 which gives the basics about wine, but for those that have a little experience, we recommend doing the level 2 course – once completed you will have a much better understanding of the greatest drink on earth!
答： 我們常常認為不論學習何種知識，最佳的方法就是親 身體驗。不過，由零開始去自學有關葡萄酒的知識似 乎太有難度，需要付的「學費」也可能太貴了──你或 會買下一大堆你不喜歡的葡萄酒！在餐廳裏，如果你 想要知道更多葡萄酒知識，可以問問在場的侍酒師， 他可因應你點叫的食物而為你建議配搭的葡萄酒，也 會因應你個人喜好而推介不同風格口味的葡萄酒。但 是，最有效的學習方法還是修讀專業的課程，可以親 自聽到品酒經驗豐富的專業人士講解評論葡萄酒。香 港也有不少葡萄酒賞析課程，部分更在你修畢後頒發 證書，例如WSET 品酒資格課程及考試。你可以選擇修 讀五個不同程度中之一(5 Levels)，入門人士可選擇修 讀Level 1，而我們建議具有一定品酒經驗的人士，可 以選擇修讀Level 2。完成課程後，你定會對世上最好 喝的飲品有更多的認識！
Q5: What does it mean by “acidity” in wine? – James Wong; Central 葡萄酒的「酸度」指的是甚麼？—James Wong；中環
Answer: Nice one James, quite a technical question! Acidity in wine is very important as it is what balances out the sugars in the wine. If there is no acidity, the wine will just be a sugary, fruity drink with nothing the keep the palate fresh after you have swallowed the wine. Acid is actually an aspect of the taste of the wine which many people will describe as the wines “sourness”. The acidity in wine is picked up by the taste buds on the side of the mouth – the same taste buds that pick up salinity in food and drinks. Without good acidity, the wine will not be properly balanced and you are less likely to enjoy the wine. On the whole, Italian wines are made with high acidity as wines with high acidity are better with food – and we know how much the Italians love their food and wine. On the whole, white wines hold more acidity than red wines and, in fact, it’s the high acidity in white wine that corrodes your teeth – unlike red wines that can stain your teeth! So if you, like us are big fans of white wine in the summer, just be aware of how much you drink and be sure to always brush your teeth after a long afternoon of white wine drinking in the sun!
答： 這是一個頗為技術上的問題！酸度對葡萄酒十分重 要，可以中和酒中的糖分。如果葡萄酒欠缺了酸度， 酒只會是極甜、富果味的，並不會在你口腔內留下餘 韻。酒的酸度由舌頭上兩側的味蕾去接收，同時也接 受食物飲料的鹹味。如果葡萄酒的酸度平衡不佳，你 很可能不會享受喝它。整體而言，意大利葡萄酒的酸 度比其他產國較高，原因在於酸度高的酒比較適合作 為餐酒，而意大利人就是非常喜歡吃喝的一群。另 外，白酒的酸度通常也比紅酒高，實際上，白酒的酸 度可使你蛀掉了牙，而紅酒卻使你染有牙漬！如果你 跟我們一樣，在夏日時喜歡喝上許多許多的白酒，緊 記要注意口腔健康，在享受過整個下午的白酒後，趕 緊把牙刷一刷！
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Recruitment in the wine business 人才招聘
Sales Executive
Sales Manager
Responsibilities:
Responsibilities:
營業代表 Madison (China) Limited -
Collaborates with sales and marketing teams to effectively achieve Company goals Enters, updates and maintains daily sales activities and client/ customer information into Sales database Manages and updates interaction of Sales force and CRM Pitches clients and customers to decide, buy and use the company’s products Plans an effective sales targeting approach to the assigned sales territory Prospects and cold-calls on businesses and organizations Regularly follows up on inbound leads and sales inquiries Responds to customer/client inquiries, suggestions, complaints and other details, by phone, online video conferences and email Suggests and implements a closing business strategy relative to sales
Requirements: -
Education: WSET Level 2 or above Experience: 1 to 2 years of related sales experience ;1-2 years of software/technology sales experience will be a plus Reference and character certificates from previous employers Strong communication and interpersonal skills Ability to work in a fast-paced and highly growing business Customer focused approach and ability to learn and adapt to needs and changes quickly
營業經理 Continental Wines Ltd - Achieve personal sales targets - Develop new sales channels and distribution networks - Look after existing client base as well as developing new customers
Requirements:
- At least 2 years experience in the wine industry - Good command of spoken and written Cantonese and English - Passionate about wine, with good wine knowledge - holder of WSET certificate preferred - Dynamic & creative - able to work in a fast-paced working environment under pressure - Good organisational skills – ability to comply with targets & deadlines - Good team player - Sound knowledge of wine business and an existing sales network - Proficiency in MS Office We are hiring for the position of Sales Executive who will bring us new clients on a monthly basis. Madison is in its expansion phase and seeking to enlarge its sales team. Interested parties please send detailed CV and your current and expected salary to info@continentalwines.com.hk in word or pdf format.
We are hiring for the position of Sales Executive who will bring us new clients on a monthly basis. Madison is in its expansion phase and seeking to enlarge its sales team. Energetic, enthusiastic and well-organized team players are welcome to apply and become a member of our growing corporate sales team. We offer competitive salaries and huge growth prospects. E-mail us with your CV at hr@madison-wine.com or fax your CV to us at 29732317
Admin Assistant JD 行政助理 Wine and More Ltd
Responsibilities: -
Responsible for ensuring smooth daily office operations Handle customer enquiries and provide excellent customer services Liaise and coordinate with various parties Personal assistant duties to the company CEO Other ad hoc duties assigned by the supervisor
Requirements: -
Fluent in English and Cantonese Proficiency in Microsoft Office softwares; Any skills on Photoshop/Illustrator a strong plus Organised, proactive and can work under stress Willing to learn and ability to multi-task Some working experience preferred; but fresh graduates are also welcome Interested parties please send detailed resume with your expected salary to fay@italysmallvineyards.com in MS word or PDF format. All applications will be treated in the strictest confidence and personal data collected will be used for recruitment related purpose only.
Looking for staff? Contact us at md@winetimeshk.com and we will add your search to our job page. 48 winetimeshk.com