LampLight Summer 2016

THE NEW QUARTERLY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MORAY & NAIRN

/DPS/LJKW ISSUE 1

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Editor’s Letter A big welcome to the first issue of Lamplight - the new quarterly lifestyle magazine for Moray and Nairn.

Lamplight has been long in the planning - we first wanted to launch a lifestyle magazine a few years ago but never quite had sufficient resources within the company. There is obviously a financial element to launching a magazine but it also design and layout time as well!

It has been quite a journey - we spent weeks contemplating the name (hope you like it!) and just as long putting together the editorial.

We have attempted to give a broad range of interesting pieces aimed at male and female, old and young - again - we hope you enjoy it! My particular favourite (although quite challenging) is the article on Art and Dementia.

Lamplight will be quarterly going with the seasons (this is the Summer Issue) so the next will be Autumn and will be out on the streets in the first week of September in the same pick-up locations.

Lamplight would not be possible without the support of local businesses who have taken out adverts in the magazine, so please mention Lamplight when you contact the companies!

Contents moray’s own beth sands - Mountain Biking

- Page 7

rid your lawn of daisies and dandelions

- Page 12

high 5 eating places - The best food around

- Page 16

Art and dementia - An artists impression

- Page 23

hunter and the bear - A Music Profile

- Page 28

summer Fashion - This year’s ladies fashion

- Page 36

LAmpLight is pubLished by:

Winterburn mediA Ltd ComrAiCh, Woodside FArm, KinLoss, iV36 3uA - teL: 01309 690063

editor

dAVid neLmes david@winterburnmedia.co.uk

design teAm

AListAir dAVidson - alistair@winterburnmedia.co.uk tAmsyn diCKson - tamsyn@winterburnmedia.co.uk

sALes

susAn innes - susan@winterburnmedia.co.uk

mountain minister - Out & about in the Highlands - Page 41 the great moray Flood 1892 - Local History

- Page 44

Walk around Archiestown - Short but interesting - Page 50 All material contained within the LampLight magazine is subject to formal copyright restrictions and therefore the reproduction of any listings, editorial, advertiser artwork or any other content, without the publishers prior consent, will be considered a breach of copyright.

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Moray’s own Beth Sands World’s top 10 challenges

7

Puffing Along

By A Correspondent.

Twenty-two year old Moray woman, Beth Sands, recently faced the challenge of a lifetime, taking part in one of the top-ten most difficult mountain bike races in the world.

The Strathpuffer, started in 2005 as a local one-off event for a few brave souls, has grown to become one of the most highly contested mountain bike challenges of its kind in the world. It takes place each year in January in the , near Strathpeffer in Ross-shire and is a 24 hour mountain bike race that is as tough as it comes. Not only do competitors have to cope with around 18 hours of darkness, they also have to deal with whatever weather a Scottish winter can throw at them. From gales to temperatures as low as minus 10 degrees, the Strathpuffer has seen it all in its short history. Riders have to cope with mud, rain and ice and more often than not they have only head torches and bike lights to illuminate the way.

In amongst the solo riders this year Beth Sands was one of only 16 women taking part. This is a sport where men out-number the ladies by a long way and ladies that take part in mountain biking of any 8

kind are a tough breed indeed. Along with the solos; pairs, quads and teams of ten make up the numbers in the ‘Puffer and as well as ladies, under 16s also take on the challenge. It’s to the men though that the top places and records generally go.

So revered is the ‘Puffer that it took three years for Beth to actually gain a place in the race, only being offered the chance to join the 2016 event late in 2015 when more places became available. Beth, a seasoned mountain biker who has successfully completed the women’s only Ride Like a Grrl event twice and the Smugglers Soiree held at Glenlivet a couple of years ago, regularly rides and trains from her home on Speyside. Not only does Beth ride mountain bikes though; she rides horses for a living, being one of the very few freelance equine grooms in the area.

Fitness is all-important for the ‘Puffer and Beth’s base fitness is up there with the best. If you stop to consider that the competition at Contin is as much about mental stamina as it is physical and that the mind sapping darkness is probably the most difficult obstacle to overcome, then mental stamina becomes allimportant.

The 11km course includes fire-roads and single track paths through the forest with several large stone slabs to catch riders out, particularly in the dark and if iced over.

The route climbs to Loch na

Crann and drops in a series bends, swings and turns throughout the forest before returning to the ‘dibbing’ in area, where the whole thing begins again. The idea is that the person, pair or team who completes the most laps in the 24 hours takes top place in their particular section.

The race begins at 10am on the Saturday with a Le Mans style run to the waiting bikes and ends at 11am the following day with a prize giving shortly after. Each solo rider must ‘dib’ in at the end of a lap with teams and pairs doing similar, each lap is accurately timed with the fastest riders being able to complete early laps in a little over 30 minutes. As time wears on lap times get longer and through the night as the darkness takes its toll, riders may opt to sit out for several hours taking time to rest or eat.

Following the drive from Moray to Contin, Beth and her back-up team consisting of mechanical help, cook and organiser and supporter, set up camp. Setting up at the Puffer is almost as important as the race itself and to the untrained eye can look a bit like organised chaos. Those who need flat ground for caravans and the like are directed to the area closest to the official marquee, everyone else who is able to, is directed to park on the course and there mobile homes rub shoulders with 4x4s, horseboxes, vans, tents, awnings and innumerable home-made shelters. This sprawling ‘village’ provides a temporary home for the mass of riders and supporters throughout the race. It’s here that generators hum throughout the night, home-made heating devices belt out heat and flames and cooking out of doors takes on a new meaning; for food and its production is all important for riders who rapidly use up energy and need refuelling and

re-hydrating every couple of laps or so in order to continue riding.

The 2016 ‘Puffer was no different to other years with entrants being required to register on the Friday evening or prior to the race briefing on the Saturday morning. The briefing over; with a quick reminder to look out for your fellow riders, cyclists were piped to the start and at 10am on the dot began the run to the assembled bikes.

9

Those first off the mark included lorry mechanic, TT motorcycle ace and occasional TV presenter Guy Martin who was in training for his Tour Divide debut later in the year. Having cycled the 400 plus miles from his base near Grimsby to the ‘Puffer didn’t stop the inimitable Mr. Martin from putting in a creditable 15 laps in the ensuing Puffer but precluded a podium finish, something he’d managed several times in recent years.

Beth wasn’t far behind the main crowd and started the race with her characteristic smile. Training had clearly paid off for Beth with the ride up the fire-road towards the top of the track presenting few problems. Always a steady rider and mindful of her bike, Beth maintained a good pace throughout the first lap thoroughly enjoying the downhill section and the new line of descent through the trees to the dibbing in area. Then the real fun began.

Riders spaced out and due to warm weather following a few frosty days in the run up to the ‘Puffer the ground began to soften, mud appeared and on the newly created sections a cement like substance began to create problems for many of the riders. Beth commented that if you’d let go of your bike in some areas, the going was so difficult that the bikes would have stood up by themselves. Many riders took to walking or running the most difficult sections and the queue at the bike-wash grew longer and longer as riders washed chains and gears clear of thick, glutinous mud, grit and debris in order to keep going. Many riders swapped to second or back-up bikes with most needing running repairs. Conservative riding enabled Beth to ride on without this.

As darkness fell Beth got her second wind and found riding in the dark easier than in the daylight. ‘Not being able to see more than 20 yards in front of you helped you forget about the mud and the camaraderie between the riders kept me going,’ she said. At 10pm, a full 12 hours into the race fireworks marked the halfway point, spurring riders, including Beth, on.

A steady stream of bike lights showed just how many riders were still out, a stream that continued relentlessly throughout the night. Just prior to midnight and following an accident to a fellow rider, Beth decided to call it a day and with 5 laps of the 11km course under her belt, took a well-earned rest, on this her first ‘Puffer attempt.

As dawn broke on the Sunday morning the solos and teams still riding put in their last few laps before the cut-off point at 11am.

Keith Forsyth, overall solo winner managed to still look fresh as he completed his final and 28th lap to take top spot, and almost as suddenly as it had begun the 2016 Puffer was over.

Beth’s response to her first ride in the epic race was enthusiastic. ‘It was fantastic I wouldn’t have missed it for the world, the best part was riding shoulder to shoulder with Guy Martin, something I never thought possible. He holds the British record for outright speed on a bicycle at 110mph, so to be there riding with the likes of him was a personal highlight for me. Will I be back next year? I most certainly hope so.

Mountain bike riders are amongst the friendliest group of people I’ve come across, couple that with the ‘Puffer and you have perfection on two wheels,’ she ended.

All rights reserved. © Heidi M. Sands. 2016.

10

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LampLight’s choice of must vist evenings out 16

by Alto - The roving diner

The Red Lion

FORRES In my opinion, one of the tastiest spots in Forres

Forres has many tasty eating venues, so why have

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So next time you’re looking for somewhere different for lunch or dinner, pop into Pattaya and enjoy the true taste of Thailand.

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Can

lead us to a better understanding of

Dementia

by Louise Innes

“Dementia is a syndrome, usually of a chronic or

vivacious, fun loving and much-loved Grandmother on

progressive nature, caused by a variety of brain illnesses

my maternal side currently suffering.

that affect memory, thinking, behaviour and ability to perform everyday activities beyond what might be

From experience, one of the hardest things for families to

expected by normal ageing.� While the dictionary

accept is observing how dementia leaves the sufferers

definition defines what dementia is, it does not tell you

the same externally, however, perpetually different

what it is not, and contrary to the common perception,

internally with the fading of a lifetime of precious

dementia is not a thief of memories. It does not, in itself,

memories occurring slowly before your eyes.

erase memories, they are forever there, trapped most of the time with sufferers sadly losing the power of recall.

I note that the Arts, be it poems, music, dance and visual art are all pivotal in facilitating the process of unlocking

Unfortunately dementia has played a large part in my life

memories. One example comes from my observations in

over the years with four of my father’s siblings having

care homes where the usual blank faces of sufferers,

succumbed to the condition, along with my once

engage with those around them, even for a few brief 23

moments, when they hear a song or a poem. For the

decided to deepen my research into dementia and to

observer, it is a pleasure to witness that brief spark in

express the horror that is dementia through my art, not

their loved ones. While it may not have an everlasting

only from a family members point of view, however,

affect and can never reverse the downward and

more importantly from the sufferer’s viewpoint.

inevitable spiral of their condition, it may, even for a short, time assist loved ones to understand and empathise with the sufferer in order to facilitate their

Progression of Dementia

engagement within their ever changing new world.

(Innes 2015)

During one of my regular visits to my Grandmother, I

Whilst acknowledging that the distressing effects of

took one of her old family photo albums with me, which,

dementia are undeniably heartbreaking, they afford the

on reflection, was a subconscious attempt to assist her

artist a plethora of unexplored ideas and possibilities

with the ability to access memories and to keep her spirit

with which to work from. My aim was to produce a body

alive. It evoked a positive response and we spent a lovely

of work to create a platform from which to express and

afternoon reminiscing and sharing many happy stories. It

encourage communication and awareness along-with

was at that point I realised how powerful pictures could

aiming to assist the understanding and acceptance of the

be, recalling happy memories and allowing my

torment that is dementia.

Grandmother to be transported back to her

24

pre-dementia diagnosis, even if it was only for a few

My secondary aim was to invite the viewer to become

precious moments. That afternoon moved me so much I

part of the dementia journey, to unnerve them, allowing

for an opening into their own personal world of inner contemplation, reflection and understanding.

By portraying the horror and progression of dementia, I aimed to create an element of uncertainty and stirring of imagination, causing both confusion and intrigue in equal measures. My work portrays how the horrendous condition of dementia can take a beautiful family photo, a memory and slowly twist and irrevocably contort and confuse it until the memory is barely recognisable. The techniques, materials and processes used represent my experience of the fragility and vulnerability of the

Fading memories2

sufferer, the loss of their identity, dignity and memory

(Innes 2016)

whilst representing the dichotomy of being the same person, yet forever different.

Fading memories1

I have recently completed my 3rd year in BA Hons Fine Art Textile, at Moray School of Art. For my Honours year I am planning developing the topic of dementia along with expanding my work to cover articles which no longer have a perceived use in Society.

I am proud to have had some of my work selected for the New Highland Contemporary 3, Seamen’s Hall, Nairn Book and Arts Festival which starts on Monday 30th August 2016 until 4th September 2016

(Innes 2016)

Louise Innes

Fading memories3

(Innes 2016)

25

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conditions apply, participating dealers only or visit peugeot.co.uk ALAN MILNE LTD is acting as a credit broker and is not a lender. ^Representative 4.9% APR on 108 and 2008 Crossover over 37 months. **Representative 0% APR on 208 over 37 months. Excludes New 208 GTi models. To finance your purchase we will introduce you to Peugeot Financial Services, provider of Peugeot’s innovative finance package - Just Add Fuel®. A guarantee may be required. Finance provided by and written quotations available from PSA Finance UK Ltd t/a Peugeot Financial Services, Quadrant House, Princess Way, Redhill, RH1 1QA. †The first year Road Fund Licence (RFL) is provided with the car. Where vehicle tax is payable after the first year the Dealer will provide customers with a cheque for the value of years 2 and 3 RFL (based on current rates). The customer must always apply for years 2 & 3 RFL. Just Add Fuel® is subject to status. *Minimum age 18, maximum age 75. Drivers are required to install the Telematics Box & consent to Data capture & transmission to qualify for insurance. All drivers must hold a full UK licence & meet eligibility criteria including limits on driving convictions & claims. Insurance subject to cancellation if you receive four warnings for poor driving. Excesses apply. 3 years motor insurance is provided and underwritten by U K Insurance Limited which is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. Payments will vary according to age, post code and annual mileage. Customer deposit may be required.

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Routine servicing included only. Excludes wear parts. All offers available on qualifying vehicles ordered and registered between 01/05/16 and 29/06/16 or until such time as they may be withdrawn by Peugeot at its complete discretion. Calls maybe recorded for training purposes. Calls charged at local rate. All information correct at time of going to press. Visit peugeot.co.uk for full product details.

26

hair & beauty

Here at Venus Hair & Beauty we offer a full range of professional treatments from precision cutting, colouring and put-ups to our more specialised hair smoothing systems and hair replacement solutions.

Our Beauty Room hosts an array of luxurious beauty treatments from Hot Stone Massage, Dermalogica Facials and Chocolate Therapy to the basic necessities of waxing, eyelash-lifts and advanced nail-care.

We also pride ourselves on being one of Scotland's approved TRENDCO hairpiece and wig fitting agents for both Private and NHS clients and our most recent endorsements of non-surgical hair integration and fusion systems for those with thinning or patchy hair loss.

Client care and confidentiality is a core to our attentive and professional approach. For this reason we offer a private consultation room to all NHS and Private clients seeking advice and assistance from us in choosing and customising a hair replacement solution to suit them.

Our dedicated team will always take the utmost care to customise and style your new hair so that you feel comfortable and confident when you leave our small friendly salon.

For further information on any of our hair or beauty treatments please call us on 01343 551010.

36 grampian road, elgin iv301xn tel: 01343 551010 venushairbeauty.co.uk free parking wheelchair access

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HUNTER & THE BEAR

28

TUNE

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School friends, Will and Jimmy started playing music together in University playing pubs and clubs in Newcastle. They spent this summer writing in the Highlands of Scotland and moved to London in September to give music a go professionally.

They are currently building a website which should be live soon, along with Twitter and Youtube channels. For now, they are going 'old school' and playing as many live shows as they can.

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New Members Welcome The Green, Hardhillock, Birnie Road, Elgin, IV30 8SX Tel: 01343 542338 29

Folk-rock four-piece, Hunter and The Bear made an eagerly

release. The band is vulnerable yet strong. The act has upped its

awaited return to The Drouthy Cobbler earlier this year as part

ante but Hunter and the Bear is still rising. The group’s potential

of a national headline tour. Having earned their stripes on stage

is unlimited, but the future is now for the next significant band

through extensive touring in 2014, and 2015, including

to come out of the UK.' Ed Condran

supporting Eric Clapton and performing at T in The Park, Cornbury, Belladrum and Larmer Tree, the band are excited to be setting off on a stretch of dates that will see them performing up and down Britain.

Inspired by artists such as The Band, Dire Straits and Bruce Springsteen, Will & Jimmy started to write and perform as a duo with Jimmy playing lead guitar, mandolin and backing vocal whilst beside him Will on the rhythm guitar and singing lead vocals. Having started the band in Newcastle, where they were studying at University, they moved to London in 2012 to bring their own brand of power folk to the huddled masses. Gareth Thompson, drums and Chris Clark, bass, completed the line up in 2014, to bring you a live set up you don't want to miss.

'Hunter and the Bear has reached a new echelon with its latest 30

Future Moray dates will be shown when available on the Drouthy Cobblers website: www.thedrouthycobbler.co.uk

Relaxed, refined dining.

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Debut EP “Dusty Road” (featuring favourites “Forest On The Hill” and “Taliesin”) earned high praise and the follow-up EP “Before I Came Home” was preceded by single “Pick Me Up.” In 2015, the band played Reading and Leeds Festivals and new EP entitled “Wildfire” was released in the summer, containing standout tracks “Burn It Up” and “Since September.” Now on their second headline Uk tour.

With support from The Black Feathers

32

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42

While visiting Malawi in April 2015, my companions and I set off to

petrol costs in getting to remote Scottish destinations and food and

climb Mount Michiru. When we told native Malawians of our plan,

drink for the journeys, it actually becomes quite expensive. ‘Ah, but

they looked at us with a quizzical glance: ‘Why?’ they all asked one

the rewards’ I hear you say … well, is that including the sore feet, lost

after another. The very idea of climbing a mountain for ‘fun,’

toenails, sunburnt, rain-whipped, wind-lacerated face, being soaked to

‘exercise’ or ‘to enjoy the view’ was deemed absolutely ludicrous.

the skin, shivering, cold damp sweat, waking up in the middle of

Although the pastime (some would say obsession) of ‘bagging

nowhere, having had no sleep, too cold and stiff to function, with the

Munros’ in Scotland is well known, Malawi is not Scotland, in fact it is

nearest Costa a good fifty miles away, and swarms of midges feasting

nowhere near Scotland, and the thought of climbing a hill for any

on every bare millimetre of exposed skin … Ah, yes, ‘the rewards,’

other reason than to pray or get somewhere, is the height of

you’re quite right!

madness.

There are rewards, however. Great, memorable, life-enriching and

For those who don’t know what a Munro is, it is a Scottish hill on or

soul-refreshing rewards, but they’re not without cost. It’s the cost and

over the height of 3000ft, first compiled and listed by Sir Hugh

hardship however, that make the rewards all the more satisfying. To

Munro in 1891 (Hence they are called Munros). The list occasionally

drive to the top of Ben Alder (if that was possible!) would be an

changes due to more accurate ways of measuring them, shifts in land

incredible safari ride, and you would end the drive with superb views

mass, and of course, human error, but when I started out and climbed

from the summit, but there would be little achievement in that. If,

my first Munro, there were 284 of them, and since that number is

however, you ‘walked in’ from the A9 for three hours before even

divisible by two and four, I like to keep that tally for no other reason

reaching the mountains, and then you’ve traversed the wild

than mathematical simplicity.

Canadian-like atmosphere of the Alder Estate, followed by the

If I’m honest however, it’s not only Malawians who ask with

thigh-throbbing ascent to the summit, for no other reason than ‘you

perplexed expressions and inquiring, furrowed brows, as to why

could,’ the sense of satisfaction and achievement is incredible. There

anyone ‘in their right mind’ would spend their time and energy

is more than just a sense of achievement involved, however.

climbing a hill (or Scottish Mountain, as they’re officially designated),

In a world that seems to be getting increasingly small, densely

for no other reason than to climb right back down again. There’s no

populated, loud and fast-paced, I’ve found the greatest antidote is to

money to be made from it, in fact, in terms of quality walking gear,

wander in the wild places; to walk for two days straight and not see a

single person, to listen to a bubbling brook for no other reason than

(ESV). OK, I admit, I like to get out for the exercise, for simply getting

it’s pleasant, to stop and stare and take in the vast, uncompromising

away for the day, for the cementing of friendships, for the

wilderness that is no slave to alarm clocks, mobile signals, deadlines,

indescribable views which no camera (of mine at least) can ever seem

fads or fashions. Above all, the great outdoors starts recalibrating a

to do the panorama of beauty any justice. But the Malawians were

true perspective of ourselves; our smallness in the great expanse of

right on one thing. The hills are a great place to pray and be reminded

open country, our frailty in the shadow of towering mountainsides,

of God’s presence and involvement with his creation.

impenetrable buttresses, and weather that can kill our bodies as easily

Back in civilization with all the trappings of comfort and ease one

as it thrills our minds, and the sheer transience and ephemerality of

quickly becomes self-reliant. There is definitely a difference between

our passage through time in comparison to the ageless slopes and

being in the security of my home, with the central heating on,

ridges and the unchanging valleys and vales that we leave no trace

electricity and hot water, and a warm comfy bed to fall into at the

upon, but which stamp their presence, colours and majesty on our

end of the day, and spending the night alone on the hill. No comforts,

mind’s eye for the rest of our days. As the Psalmist once wrote: 11 My

no fridge, no bathroom, and perhaps most strangely of all, no people

days are like the evening shadow; I wither away like grass. 12 But you,

(sometimes within a ten mile radius). Instead of security there is a

Lord, sit enthroned forever; your renown endures through all

sense of vulnerability. The elements, the solitude, the walls of the

generations. Psalm 102:11-12 (ESV).

tent flapping like a duck trying to take off from water, and often just

You see, as a Christian minister, the wilderness is the place that most

as wet! There, in the wide and wonderful expanse of God’s creative

easily reminds me of the Lord’s presence and glory over his creation;

handiwork, it’s me and Him; and that’s a profound experience to have.

it’s so immediate, intense, all-encompassing and inescapable. This is

It’s a journey well worth making, where the ‘long walk in’ is often

what the Apostle Paul would write in his first letter to the Church in

painfully bad for the back and legs, but nourishingly good for the

Rome, when he speaks about the created order of the universe: a

mind and soul. In that sense, the Malawians are right, it is a good

truth that it so evident it leaves all people without excuse. For since

place to go and pray, because, thankfully, the Scottish hills are not

the creation of the world, God’s invisible qualities—his eternal power

‘alive with the sound of music’ but rather, they hold that delightful

and divine nature—have been clearly seen, being understood from

peace of nature and are filled, instead, with the majesty of the

what has been made, so that people are without excuse. Rom. 1:20

life-giving, Creator God.

43

The Muckle Spate

The Great Flood of 1892 44

So far, this winter of 2015/2016 has been dominated by stories of

from the south, new roads and new bridges were opening the flood

destruction caused by serious flooding. News reports pour into our

gates to admit ideas from a world beyond. Some young people had

homes through various mediums showing the devastation caused by

joined a growing exodus to start a new life in Nova Scotia on the other

inundations of water – the misery of the affected and afflicted.

side of the ocean.

Today we blame and explain nature’s tantrums in scientific terms.

Climate change, building on flood plains and neglected dredging are

So it was, late on the Lord’s Day, of August the second, the wind swung

among listed causes. Morayshire itself is no stranger to flood,

round to the northeast, riffling the waters along the funnel of the

traversed as it is by networks of rivers and tributaries draining from

Moray Firth. Squally showers began to fall. Old fishermen and farmers

the Cairngorms to the sea. But the worst flood in Scotland’s history

alike felt the first stirrings of unease. By Monday of the third, the

and far beyond, happened in 1829 here in Moray, largely explained in

weather’s temper blackened into a malevolent gale, whipping up a

those days as a calamity from the hand of God, and likened to

maelstrom of driving rain and discharging it in torrents over the hills

Noah’s flood.

and plains. Cloud lowered to meet land. All through that day the air was so filled with water and spray that those outside could do nothing

A long hot Summer

but to breathe it in. No roof could keep it out, no window facing northeast withstand it. Fishing boats dared not venture from their harbours. Farmers realised if this were to continue the harvest was about to be ruined.

That year a summer sun shone hot from a July sky onto the Moray plain just as it had done all summer, wilting newly planted shrubs and trees. Haymaking was over. Littering the farmyards were golden stacks, covered and weighted down providing winter fodder for stock and hiding places for cats and kits, broody hens and rats. Wheat, bere barley and oats swelling in the fields, ripening near complete, would soon make their own stacks. A good grain harvest meant no-one would go hungry during the long dark months ahead, even without the new fill-belly crop, gaining in popularity every year, the potato, harvested in the autumn.

In a tradition stretching back beyond memory, the men of Moray and

By mid-afternoon the major rivers had all started to rise and swell.

their families besides, from the Spey to the Nairn, from the highlands

With the wind shrieking like a demented demon, and water seeping and

and plains, prepared for harvest. As they sharpened their sickles,

dripping through every chink and crevice, houses began to flood from

amongst other things they talked of the latest outrages and extrava-

the force of rain alone. Animals went unfed. In the hills above the

gances of Georgy Porgy, King George IV. Little did they know he

plain, people began to abandon their dwellings. As the gloom of the

would be dead in less than a year, and “good riddance” would be the

day faded to night, a tumult of water thundered down all the major

general consensus. And then there were the rumours of new-fangled

water courses of Moray, the worse affected being the River Findhorn.

machinery that could each do the work of a dozen men. Once almost

At the Broom of Moy at the mouth of the Findhorn, all houses were

cut off from the rest of the nation by the rugged Grampians, lairds

swept away and their occupants drowned.

45

The rain finally stopped late that morning after which the floods began

In the light of day

to subside leaving in their wake destruction and destitution. For wily opportunists there was a bonanza of salmon stranded in pools together with mountains of driftwood to be collected for burning. But many were left without shelter, belongings or the means to feed or

As that dreadful night of August 4th gave way to day, the full extent of

provide for themselves. A Central Committee for the Flood Fund had

the devastation became apparent. All watercourses and tributaries up

to be quickly established for the relief of cases of utter destitution,

in the hills had been affected. Gushing torrents reinforced by all

the parish of Forres alone recorded as having one hundred and eighty

manner of debris and detritus undermined river banks, cutting new

eight. One of their lasting legacies was the minting of silver medal-

channels and spilling far beyond their normal limited courses. Two

lions as an Honorary Reward for those who were judged to have shown

flood stones at Randolph’s Leap are still a testament to the water

Courage and Humanity in the disaster. Each member of the boat crews

being fifty feet above its normal height. Resonating with news reports

who braved the dangers of the floodwaters to rescue those in need

of today, occupants of flooded properties were forced to seek shelter

were awarded a medal engraved with their name.

in garrets and attics. The Spynie loch, to the north of Elgin, drained nineteen years previous, was again filled to capacity. Twenty square

A few years later, a lengthy light-hearted poem in the vernacular, titled

miles of the fertile Forres plain was under attack by a thrashing,

the “Muckle Spate”, describing the floods, was written by David Grant.

foaming brown monster. Five fishing boats sailed from Findhorn across

In it he describes at length the nature of the debris swept away by the

the floodwaters rescuing a stranded population in dire peril.

floods. An example is as follows:

Much of the new infrastructure: turnpike roads, harbours and especially bridges, that had so recently transformed and opened up these northerly lands were smashed, broken and washed away during the afternoon and night of the third and fourth: Bishopmill, Findhorn, Forres and Fochabers to name just a few. Imagine the chaos nowadays if those bridges were to suddenly become impassable with no warning. In those pre-electricity days mills provided the power for all industry – there were threshing mills, flour mills, mills for the textile industry, the brewing industry to name a few examples.

These were especially vulnerable to the flooding with the mill leads, machinery, buildings and products all being carried off. It was reported a huge mass of machinery was swept nine miles downriver from the Faille fulling mill. Elsewhere a whole shearing shed with the year’s shearing of wool was carried off. Produce from the land, whether harvested or not, was destroyed, with soil eroded and washed away. Animals, both wild and domesticated, suffered dreadfully being either chilled, drowned or swept away.

46

s, m lu er m m ti n’ a , ck a th s, ot “An' div An' rantle trees wi' cruikiss,e an' saut, An' backets, baith for a buiks;” An' racks for plates an' eers, fl n' a s, il a fl n' a , ns fa rn a b n' A An' canasses an' secks; doors themsel’s, An' cheeks o' doors, an' ecks; Wi’ broken ban's an' sn

‘The Highland Flood 1892’

Sir Edward Landseer

Should such a calamity befall us today in this age of plastic, the debris

Back to the beginning of 2016, we can feel a measure of protection

and detritus would inevitably be considerably different: cars, caravans,

against such a cataclysm as described, by several modern flood

wheelie bins and road cones would likely to feature large.

alleviation schemes which have recently been engineered at great expense: £21m Forres (Burn of Mosset); £45m Forres (River Findhorn and

We owe a debt of gratitude to one Sir Thomas Dick Lauder of

Pilmuir); £86m for Elgin. Llanbryde and Rothes have also benefited.

Fountainhall, 7th Baronet (1784-1848) and friend of Sir Walter Scott. Sir

However, in December 2015, the news from other parts of the UK with

Thomas collected a great many accounts of the flood from all

their own flood schemes has amply demonstrated that we are still far

affected locations and incorporated them into a book entitled “The

from immune.

Great Moray Floods of 1829”, still in print. Married at Edinkillie Church and owner of the Relugas Estate next to the Findhorn, he naturally

Almost two centuries ago, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder summarised the

focuses to a great extent on that area. Furthermore, he describes

event, “Before, a Garden of Eden; after, a desolate wilderness. He

some of the consequent flood alleviation schemes at the time

further succinctly observed, “Nature can seldom be regulated or

following the disaster, together with the accompanying difficulties.

controlled in one way, without running riot in some other”.

Famous for his portrayals of Highland scenes, some years after in 1860, artist, Sir Edward Landseer (1802-1873), depicted the disaster in his painting “The Highland Flood”.

47

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Let’s Walk Around u Archiestown A few miles from Aberlour lies the village of Archiestown. It straddles the B9102 en route to Knockando and although small, Archiestown offers a warm welcome to those who visit.

Archiestown has a rich history. In 1760 Archibald Grant of Monymusk engineered the building of a small gathering of dwellings on the otherwise bleak and somewhat boggy moorland at Ballintomb. In line with other landowners, Archibald Grant was keen to improve his estate and for him Ballintomb was no different than anywhere else. He hoped to provide work and lodging for anyone who would come to his ‘planned village’ and would go on to name it Archiestown, after himself.

Following in the footsteps of improving landlords before him, Archibald and his advisors laid out a typical planned village with a square in the middle, a main lane running through the centre along which the homes and businesses would sit, smaller single track lanes running off, allowing access to plots of land at the rear of the dwellings and buildings. Further plots of land of up to several acres were available on the edge of these planned villages, enabling villagers to undertake growing or agricultural practices of their own.

Villagers from all walks of life and professions were encouraged to settle in Archiestown with the offer of good schooling for village children, an adequate water supply and stone for building. Flax was planted and a linen and weaving industry encouraged; an industry recognised and remembered today by the image of the blue flax flower on signs that welcome visitors to the village.

Settlers came from far and wide to populate Archiestown and included were families with all manner of surnames, many of which still exist in the area today; Ogg, Mackie, Anderson and Dunbar to name but a few. The setting up of a planned village meant that tradesmen and women were needed to service the needs of other villagers and travellers; a trip to Elgin was not generally easy nor frequent, so villagers needed to be able to shoe their own horses, bake their own bread, butcher their own meat and grow their own crops. Agriculture was important to the village and the area in general.

Farming and forestry form the backbone of Archiestown’s surrounding area today and although cows no longer wend their way along Archiestown’s main street, cattle are still raised on the farms and horses still graze the fields and use stables within the village.

Sadly, most of the shops and former trades no longer exist with most villagers finding employment out-with the village boundaries.

Thankfully, though, there is still a village shop and post office supplying necessary supplies to those villagers that need them.

50

Although the school has long gone, many of the older buildings are still in evidence and their mellow stone brings character to the village lanes. The Archiestown Hotel is probably the largest and most recognisable building in the village today and provides refreshment and complete repast for those who choose to visit or to stay for longer. On one side of the village square sits the village hall.

Recently refurbished, it provides a meeting place for all manner of groups, including the village council and the local toddlers. The village fete takes place each year during the summer and in recent years has been held on the playing field rather than in the aforementioned village square.

Standing at 747 feet above sea level Archiestown can sometimes be snowbound during colder winters. This is nothing new for the village and although snow-ploughs are in evidence, the smaller lanes and entrances take manpower to clear. Neighbours mean everything at times like these and Archiestown is strong on this aspect of traditional life.

One of the most delightful aspects of Archiestown is the village walk and a wander around the village is within the capabilities of

most walkers, it’s a couple of miles of mostly level lanes and easily accessible paths along which to meander and is to be recommended.

Begin your walk outside the Archiestown Hotel where there is ample parking and to which you can return at the end of your walk for refreshment. You’ll notice the newer properties intermingled with the older houses around the square and in the middle is the war memorial that each November draws villagers and clergy to honour those who laid down their lives in two world wars. Here too, is recognition of the village prowess in the ‘Best Kept Village’ competition; stunning floral displays are testament to the dedication of green fingered villagers. Before leaving the square, take a look at the information board outside the hotel, it provides interesting facts for walkers and visitors alike.

earlier. There are sometimes horses and ponies in the fields along here; a form of mobility that earlier villagers would have known all about and appreciated for their ability to provide much needed transport and real horse-power around the village in the days before the internal combustion engine took their place.

Walk back to the High Street and turn right when you meet, it taking time to admire the older properties and more named lanes; Craigroy, McQibbans, Bakers, Chapel and Souters. Cross the road and proceed up a flight of steps to the Hotel from where you started the walk. For those who prefer to travel by public transport a bus stop is located at the front of the Hotel.

For more information visit www.archiestown.com and www.archiestownhotel.co.uk

aking South Lane at the bottom end of the hotel car park our walk Taking begins by passing farm buildings. To the right as you walk there are fantastic far reaching views over the surrounding countryside towards Ben Rinnes and delightful village gardens encourage you to peek over walls to appreciate what lies within. If time allows, explore the tiny lanes on your left that lead toward the High Street; these make up some of Archibald Grant’s original and formal layout. Our walk continues to the end of the lane, passing stables on your left where chickens sometimes scratch and take dust baths. As you round the corner, stop to admire Rose Villa an impressive cream-boarded house with a turret like entrance; it’s amazing what treasures this small Speyside village hides.

All rights reserved © Heidi M. Sands.

War Memorial

Walk on towards the High Street and, taking care, cross over. Here you’ll leave Smiddy Lane for Schoolhouse Lane; lanes with names reminiscent of trades and pastimes that long ago took place there. As you continue along you’ll pass the entrance to North Lane and just after here turn right onto the village playing fields. Complete with children’s play area and a delightful pavilion, this is a perfect stop off point for anyone with children. It’s here, that in recent years the village fete has taken place and with all manner of attractions including a vibrant craft fair, archery, face-painting, a bottle stall, tombola, barbecue and teas. It’s easy to see why the village fete is still an important date on the calendar for villagers.

The Old Manse

Archiestown Hotel The Old St. Andrews

If you wish to join the village walk, the entrance to the playing field is where to begin, but for our purposes we will walk on, re-joining North Lane at this point. Walk up-hill, passing a stunning Monkey Puzzle tree in the garden of Woodlea, before coming out behind the village hall at the top end of the village square. Alongside you on your right is the house named Old St. Andrews, one of the oldest in the village being built in the 1760s, and across the square lies the equally impressive Old Manse. Here, you can either turn left and head back to the hotel or, if you fancy joining the village walk from this end, you can turn right.

If you take the village walk option you will not be disappointed.

Passing cottages and open farmland as you walk, the wind turbines on the Ballindalloch Estate can be seen. Here, turn right onto a track that can be wet underfoot at times of heavy rainfall. Reaching the reservoir affords more splendid views of the surrounding countryside dominated by Ben Rinnes; a fact that hasn’t gone unnoticed, for here, a thoughtfully placed bench bids you sit and take in the view awhile.

Walk on when you are ready and, arriving at the gate, take the right-handed path, downhill under the rowan trees. Keep on this same path until you come to the children’s play park that you visited

Old Manse

Old St.Andrews

Village Hall

Rose Villa

H

Hotel Start/Finish

X

War Memorial

Playpark 51

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