LampLIGHT ISSUE
12
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SPRING
LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
2019
F O R M O R AY, N A I R N & I N V E R N E S S
I N S I D E
Castle Feature Explore the Castles of North East Scotland Naomi Bunyan FEATURED ARTIST
Let’s Visit Tomintoul BY HEIDI SANDS
Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf? BY ELEANOR WEBSTER
Mountain Minister BY JON MACKENZIE
Fashion Pages CAPSULE WARDROBES
YOUR P U K PIC
FREE COPY
PLUS much more inside...
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Welcome to our Spring 2019 Edition of Lamplight. As we transition from dark nights and snowy mornings into the season of growth and renewal, my mind turned to thinking about how weather and climate can impact on our health. This is probably not very scientific, but I do feel a spring in my step as the days get longer and the hours of sunshine gradually increase. But it’s not just the physical temperature and access to more light. There is something quite uplifting about new growth. Seeing rows and rows of daffodils, tulips and forest flowers all seem to raise my spirits. There is something indefinable about having ones spirits lifted - I guess that you just know when it happens and when it doesn’t! Perhaps just best not to overanalyse and accept it for what it is!
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This issue of Lamplight has some fascinating features another mountain walk from our Mountain Minister, a vibrant artist feature, a look at the castles of the North East and a historical piece on the Wolf of Badenoch. In addition we have a stroll around Tomintoul and a feature on the fashion concept of ‘A Capsule Wardrobe’ - a new one to me but apparently all the rage!
Nairn - Sainsburys, Co-op Forres - Tesco, Co-op, Mackenzie & Cruickshank, Logie Steading, Brodie Countryfare Elgin - Johnstons, Marks & Spencer, Tesco, Aldi, Lidl, Asda Buckie - Tesco, Lidl, Co-op Keith - Tesco, Various other shops Aberlour - Spey Larder, Co-op Grantown - Co-op, Scotmid Lossiemouth - Co-op - Queen St, Co-op - Faroes St
LAMPLIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY: Winterburn Media LTD Unit 15, Horizon Scotland, Enterprise Park, Forres, Moray, IV36 2AB
North East Castles Feature
- Page 6
Brodie Castle
- Page 8
Tel: 01309 690063
Let’s Visit Tomintoul
- Page 13
West Coast Islands
- Page 20
Mountain Minister
- Page 21
The Wolf of Badenoch
- Page 29
Book Review
- Page 35
Innes House
- Page 36
Fashion - Capsule Wardrobes
- Page 38
Featured Artist - Naomi Bunyan
- Page 43
EDITOR: David Nelmes - David@winterburnmedia.co.uk PRODUCTION and ART & DESIGN: Flo Skinner - Flo@winterburnmedia.co.uk Ishbel Ewen - Ishbel@winterburnmedia.co.uk SALES: Susan Innes - Susan@winterburnmedia.co.uk Heather Ward - Heather@winterburnmedia.co.uk ACCOUNTS: Alan Radley - Alan@winterburnmedia.co.uk
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Eden Watermill is a unique Gift Shop and Tea Room, in rural Aberdeenshire. We serve freshly prepared light lunches, home-baked scones, and cakes. Or... why not browse around the shop and our range of gift ideas for all the family! King Edward, Banff, AB45 3LP
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Open Thursday to Monday 11am - 4pm Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday
Find us on Facebook 3
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Acres of gentle Morayshire countryside surround National Trust for Scotland’s Brodie Castle, near to Forres, ancestral home of the Brodie clan for over 400 years, although their family seat has been here since the 12th century. This rose-coloured, turreted castle stands on land confirmed to the Brodies by Robert the Bruce. The castle houses a magnificent collection of furniture, ceramics and artwork, including works by 17th-century Dutch masters and 20th-century Scottish Colourists. It also boasts an impressive library containing over 6,000 volumes. The new Playful Garden at Brodie Castle, which opened last season, is full of excitement for all the family – for the young and the young at heart! Located near to the castle, it explores the Brodie family history in a novel and fun-filled way.
Brodie hosts an impressive and wide range of events Throughout the season ranging from the ever popular annual Daffodil Festival at Easter to a real Archaeological Dig for Families (Dig With Dad on Father’s Day weekend – June 15 & 16 ). Outdoor theatre is a regular summer event and the castle is now the venue for the highly successful Scottish Adventure Travel Film Festival in September. Celebrating the first birthday of Scotland’s largest rabbit sculpture, Brodie Bunny, will be marked with an amazing Brodie 1st Bunnyversary on June 29 at Playful Garden – an event for all the family. Add to all of that events such as Historic Wheels, Jousting, Halloween and Christmas Craft Fairs – it is definitely the place to visit during 2019! (go to www.nts.org.uk/visit /places/brodie-castle/events)
Our Annual Daffodil Festival is a real ‘must see’ for all! Brodie is famous for its National Daffodil Collection which is a result of an intensive 20th century breeding programme by one of the greatest pioneers in daffodil hybridisation, Ian Brodie, 24th Brodie of Brodie and clan chieftain (1868-1943) who raised over 400 varieties of daffodils over 40 years. The National Daffodil Collection at Brodie Castle is now part of the new Playful Garden, with the daffodil theme key to this development. From March until the end of May we are part of the Scottish Rhododendron Festival so come along and discover Brodie Castle’s colourful collection of Rhododendrons in the beautiful shrubbery, and across the wider estate.
Brodie is also a superb wedding venue for those planning their special day. We have a wonderful range of rooms and options available to ensure your perfect wedding at Brodie Castle. Just email us here on brodiecastle@nts.org.uk or call on 01309 641702 and we will be really happy to discuss your requirements.
The Castle, Grounds and Playful Garden are open all year round, so there is always something to see and do whatever the season! There are walks around the estate, the pond and the shrubbery, which are accessible and free to all, showcase the beauty and wildlife of the area. And do enjoy a relaxing snack after your visit at either of our delightful cafes and make sure you look out for that special memento of your visit at our shop.
T: 01309 641702 W: nts.org.uk/visit/brodie-castle E:brodiecastle@nts.org.uk LampLIGHT
The National Trust for Scotland is a Scottish Charity, SC007410
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Spynie Castle also known as Spynie Palace, was the fortified seat of the Bishops of Moray for about 500 years. The founding of the palace dates back to the late 12th Century. For most of its occupied history, the castle was not described as a palace — this term first appeared in the Registry of Moray in a writ of 1524.
Gordon Castle Completed as one of Scotland’s largest houses in the 1770s by the Duke of Gordon, Gordon Castle is the spiritual home of the House of Gordon, one of Scotland’s oldest families.
Cawdor Castle is steeped in intrigue and history. Dating from the late 14th century, built as a private fortress by the Thanes of Cawdor. An ancient medieval tower built around the legendary hawthorn tree. We believe Cawdor Castle is a truly extraordinary place. Whether you are exploring one of the three gardens, adventuring in Cawdor Big Wood or putting on our nine-hole golf course, we hope Cawdor Castle will fill you with happy memories.
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Guided tours of either the Castle or Gardens are available via prior arrangement. Suitable for individuals and groups of up to 12 people and lasting approximately 1 hour, this is a great way to make you visit extra memorable. In addition, private tours can be arranged, and by appointment only, during the closed season from October to April.
Please contact the office on 01667 404401 or info@cawdorcastle.com with any enquiries
What sets it apart is the fact that since it was built, over four and a half centuries ago, it has been the family home of a single family, the Macpherson-Grants.
Drumin Castle
OPEN: 13th April to 6th October Open seven days a week, 10am to 5.30pm
Ballindalloch Castle
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is a ruined tower house near Glenlivet. It is a designated scheduled monument.The lands were granted by King Robert II to his son Alexander Stewart in the early 1370s. It passed from the Stewart family to the Gordon family in 1490. The castle was abandoned in the 18th century and fell into disrepair.
Balvenie Castle
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Inverness Castle sits on a cliff overlooking River Ness in Inverness, Scotland. The red sandstone structure evident today was built in 1836 by architect William Burn. It is built on the site of an 11th-century defensive structure. There has been a castle at this site for many centuries.
Kilravock Castle In the 17th century a 4-storey mansion was added to the 5-storey tower which overlooks a steep drop to the River Nairn. The castle was also remodelled in the 18th century.
Rait Castle
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is a ruined fourteenth century Hall House built by the Cummings family in the fourteenth century. They had acquired the manor at the expense of Clan Mackintosh and this led to a feud between the two factions culminating in a massacre within the castle.
D u ff u s C a s t l e
was a motte-and-bailey castle and was in use from c.1140 to 1705. During its occupation it underwent many alterations. The original wooden structure was replaced with one of stone. At the time of its establishment, it was one of the most secure LampLIGHT
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Balvenie Castle is a ruined castle near Dufftown in the Moray region of Scotland. Originally known as Mortlach, it was built in the 12th century by a branch of the powerful Comyn family and extended and altered in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Auchindoun Castle While there is evidence of prehistoric, probably Pictish earthworks in the grounds of the castle, the remains most visible today are of the castle constructed in the mid-15th century by Robert Cochrane.
Aldourie Castle First recorded as a mansion house in 1626, with later additions including a wing by the famous Scottish architect Sir Robert Lorimer, Aldourie is a classic example of Scottish Baronial architecture.
Drummuir Castle The castle is a splendid example of the Scottish Victorian architectural style. The romantic roof line with its battlements, turrets and chimney stacks is dominated by the stunning 60 foot high central lantern tower, notable for its Gothic tracery.
Castles of the North 15 Inchdrewer Castle (PRIVATE)
34 Carbisdale Castle (PRIVATE)
53 Eilean Donan Castle
16 Craigston Castle (ACCOMODATION)
35 Skelbo Castle (RUINED)
17 Conzie (Bonnie) Castle (RUINED)
36 Dunrobin Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
18 Fyvie Castle (OPEN TO THE PUBLIC)
37 Berriedale Castle (RUINED)
19 Dunnideer Castle (RUINED)
38 Dunbeath Castle (PRIVATE)
20 Kildrummy Castle (RUINED)
39 Castle Greysteil (RUINED)
21 Castle Fraser (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
40 Gunn’s Castle (RUINED)
22 Huntly Castle (RUINED)
41 Dirlot Castle (RUINED)
23 Urquhart Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
42 Castle of Old Wick (RUINED)
24 Beaufort Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
43 Girnigoe Castle (RUINED)
25 Castle Leod (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
44 Bucholie Castle (RUINED)
26 Delgatie Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
45 Freswick Castle (VENUE FOR HIRE)
27 Slains Castle (RUINED)
46 Castle of Mey (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
28 Tolquhon Castle (RUINED)
47 Braal Castle (RUINED)
65 Lews Castle (HOTEL)
29 Craigievar Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
48 Bishops Palace (OPEN TO THE PUBLIC)
66 Calvay Castle (RUINED)
30 Balnagowan Castle (PRIVATE)
49 Brims Castle (RUINED)
67 Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces
31 Mansfield Castle (HOTEL)
50 Borve Castle (RUINED)
32 Dornoch Castle (HOTEL)
51 Castle Varrich (VIEWING POINT)
33 Skibo Castle (PRIVATE)
52 Ardvreck Castle (RUINED)
(OPEN TO PUBLIC)
54 Strome Castle (RUINED) 55 Duncraig Castle (ACCOMODATION) 56 Caisteal Maol (RUINED) 57 Armadale Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC) 58 Dunscaith Castle (RUINED) 59 Invergarry Castle (RUINED) 60 Brochel Castle (RUINED) 61 Caisteal Uisdean (RUINED) 62 Kisimul Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC) 63 Ormacleit Castle (RUINED) 64 Amhuinnsuidhe Castle (ACCOMODATION)
(OPEN TO PUBLIC)
68 Cubby Roo’s Castle (RUINED) 69 Noltland Castle (OPEN TO PUBLIC) 70 Birsay Earl's Palace (OPEN TO PUBLIC)
52 Ardvreck Castle Ruined castle dating from the 16th century which stands on a rocky promontory jutting out into Loch Assynt in Sutherland.
67 Bishop's and Earl's Palaces Ruined Renaissance-style palace near St Magnus's Cathedral in the centre of Kirkwall, Orkney,
29 Craigievar Castle Pinkish harled castle 6 miles south of Alford, Aberdeenshire. An example of the best of Scottish Baronial architecture. 3
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Family Run, Working Farm with a Farm Shop, Coffee Shop and Indoor Play Area
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By Heidi M. Sands.
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‘
Tomintoul is reputed to be the highest village in the Highlands and, whichever way you approach it, you’ll be in no doubt that this is Moray’s pinnacle in more ways than one. Built on a grid pattern to a design laid out by the 4th Duke of Gordon in the late 1770s, Tomintoul started out, as did several other planned villages in the north-east, with dwellings arranged in lanes surrounding a central square. These dwellings were each afforded an area of land, usually a long strip, on which to keep small numbers of livestock and grow produce for the family. In Tomintoul this supplemented income from other sources; the Duke had high hopes for organised employment but as in other similar villages this failed to work and villagers found work where they could. A while later the beauty of the local area and the remoteness of it courted the attention of tourists. Those who passed through and stayed, brought income to the village. Today tourists still come to Tomintoul and on the day I visited German and American voices intermingled with local accents.
No matter how you approach Tomintoul it’s the Square that catches the eye first, and no wonder really, for this is the hub of the village from which streets and lanes begin and end and on which shops, hotels and businesses sit.
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The Square
‘ The first place I visited was the Discovery Centre. The newly revamped museum therein is a delight. Featuring life as it once was in the village, aspects of work, farming, the church, accessibility, distilling and recreation are all examined in some detail. The collection of artefacts features, amongst other things, a horse-drawn cart built by John Edwards around about 1910. With a croft to care for John used the cart to carry goods to and from his home. In the 1920s the same cart was used to carry peat and for general farm work. Today it’s depicted full of the fuel and workaday wear. The old cobbler’s bench is there too, as is his ledger. In the same way as other craftsmen in the village, the cobbler made a living providing a service to his fellow villagers.
A virtual reality facility and children’s area complete the Discovery Centre and on exiting you can’t help but notice the many cottages that frame the village green, a green that is split by the roads that lead in, out and through the village.
The museum also has a section given over to wildlife of the area including Golden Eagles, lapwings and mountain hares. Close by the importance of deer stalking and grouse shooting are examined as being crucial to the local economy both in times past and in the present day.
To the front of the Richmond Hotel is a water fountain, beautifully ornate and presented to the village by Robert Grant MD in 1915 as a memento of his growing up there. It is surrounded by white lion heads from which water may once have flowed. Today the fountain stands dry. Completing the picture on the Square is the Village Store and Post Office, essential to village life and selling, amongst other things, newspapers, magazines and locally produced honey.
One of the most unusual exhibits is the Tomintoul Coat.
Close to the Discovery Centre is the Glen Avon Hotel where lunches, evening meals, coffee and cakes can be had. To the other side of the Centre lies Hotel Square, where dinner was being advertised including the delicious sounding Wild Boar Cutlets. On the other side of the Square, opposite each other, are the Clock House restaurant where I’ve had several outstanding family meals, and the Richmond Hotel, imposing and stone built and overlooking the expansive green.
Just behind the Post Office lies the Richmond Memorial Hall complete with a memorial to the men of the parish who died during two world wars. Taking the main street out of the village square in the direction of the Lecht you can’t fail to notice the Old Fire Station tea room where once fire-fighters gathered and today amongst the teapots and fancy cakes artefacts from its former use are displayed. These include uniforms, jackets and breathing apparatus. Almost opposite lies ‘Spindrift’ selling all manner of outdoor gear, books, maps, gifts, art and prints. Here pewter quaichs sit alongside engraved glasses and Highland Wallart created by John Polak.
Discovered in the rafters of a village house in 2003 the coat is remarkably intact and features a high collar, deep cuffs and mother-of-pearl buttons. Purported to have once been worn by an excise man, this is a rare find.
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When visiting the Highest Village in the Highlands, call into
14/12/2018
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www.clanhouse.org #Livingwithcancer
TOMINTOUL VILLAGE STORE & POST OFFICE Licensed Grocery Store
A family run Store open 7 days per week offering convenience and value on Snacks to Fruit and Veg to Chilled and Frozen. Offering a taste of the Highlands, including quality Meats, Cheeses, Speyside Beers, Wines and local Tomintoul Honey! Toys, Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Books, Gifts & Souvenirs Open daily 8am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. On Sundays 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5:30pm. From November to end of March. We close daily at 5:30pm 16
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CLAN in the community Providing emotional and practical support to people affected by cancer, their family, friends and carers.
Wellbeing and support services are freely available to all, from pre-diagnosis and diagnosis through treatment and beyond at support centres across Moray, located in Elgin, Buckie, Forres and Lossiemouth.
Telephone: 01343 544132 elgin@clanhouse.org
Cancer support for all
Next is The Whisky Castle that can’t be missed, filled with all manner of whisky it also sells fine wines, local beers, spirits and liqueurs. Established in 1900 it boasts 500 whiskies and the shelves therein are simply full of the amber nectar ranging from Benromach to the only to be expected 16 year old Tomintoul Next door is the infamous Highland Market where coffee of all kinds, teas and pastries can be sampled along with ice creams, smoothies and paninis – there really is no need to go hungry or thirsty in Tomintoul. Gifts, cards and calendars are also available here along with beautiful handbags and toiletries. Even the children are catered with a range of kiddies’ books. The village wants for nothing as it sports a tennis court, primary school and all the usual village amenities including a fire, police and ambulance station and wandering round the little village streets and lanes that run off the main square you can’t help but be constantly reminded of the age of many of the buildings. New buildings nestle between old cottages and yards and grassy tracks run off to unseen farms and all around lies the beauty of the hills. Tomintoul is home to the Parish Church of Our Lady and St. Michael and its Commonwealth War graves. Sadly the church was locked when I called and a sign informs visitors that this is due to serious structural problems. I can only hope that this is rectified and the doors of this special place are open once more. Not to be outdone The Church of Scotland, designed by Thomas Telford, draws the eye as you enter or leave via the Bridge of Brown end of the main street. This building was one of only thirty-two Parliamentary or Telford churches built between 1823 and 1835 as a result of an Act of Parliament. Each church and its manse had to be built at a cost of no more than £1,500 excluding the cost of the land. Tomintoul’s church cost £750 and the manse £738. Altered and renovated in 1900, the basis of Telford’s church can still be seen.
No matter where you look in the village there is warm welcome and from Bed and Breakfast establishments to hotels and campsites, tourists and visitors are well catered for. The names of the lanes are also a delight, many of which hark back to former times or uses of certain areas. As you walk further out of the village you’ll come across carefully tended gardens and growing spaces and everywhere peace reigns, birds sing and there’s no doubt that this high place of Moray is certainly a lovely place to be. 3
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GS E IN BL EW LA VI AI AV
Making care mean more in Nairn
Offering high quality, personalised nursing care in a homely environment
St Olaf Room Suit e
St Olaf Care Home
Meaningful Activities St Olaf Care Home offers luxury suites along with a range of services, including: s 24-hour nursing care for the elderly and those living with Dementia s Fine Cuisines - Nutritious meals catering for all dietary needs s Large, dual aspect deluxe rooms
s Event and activities programme s Hairdressing and beauty salon s Easily accessible and landscaped gardens s Private resident transport
Contact home manager Liz to arrange a visit on 01667 454 544
Liz MacRae
St Olaf Care Home Manager
Email: stolaf@meallmore.co.uk Web: www.meallmore.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/meallmore
St Olaf Care Home, Cawdor Road, Nairn IV12 5EF LampLIGHT
d e r i p s n i be with
Slimming World MONDAY CULLEN 5.30pm, 7.30pm Cullen Bowling & Tennis Club, Reidhaven Place, Cullen, Buckie, AB56 4RN Call Dawn 07763 032849 ELGIN 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm The Eight Acres Hotel, Morriston Road, Elgin, IV30 6UL Call Lenore on 07795 364354 KINLOSS 6.30pm Kinloss & Findhorn Church Hall, Findhorn Road, Kinloss, IV36 3TX Call Kay on 07768 131676
TUESDAY BUCKIE 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm Buckpool Golf Club, Barhill Road, Buckie, AB56 1DU Call Dawn on 07763 032849 CULLEN 8am, 10am Cullen Bowling & Tennis Club, Reidhaven Place, Cullen, Buckie, AB56 4RN Call Sarah on 07872 474544 DUFFTOWN 5.30pm, 7.30pm Commercial Hotel, Church Street, Dufftown, AB55 4AR Call Janice on 01340 820796 ELGIN 9.30am The Eight Acres Hotel, Morriston Road, Elgin, IV30 6UL Call Lenore on 07795 364354
ELGIN 5.30pm and 7.30pm Elgin City Football Club Ltd Borough Briggs Road, Elgin, IV30 1AP Call Shirley on 07434 164091 HOPEMAN 5.30pm and 7.30pm Hopeman Memorial Hall, Farquhar Street, IV30 5SL Call June on 07730 924178
WEDNESDAY ELGIN 9.30am Elgin City Football Club Ltd Borough Briggs Road, Elgin, IV30 1AP Call Shirley on 07434 164091 ELGIN 6.30pm New Elgin & Ashgrove Public Hall, Land Street, New Elgin, Elgin, IV30 6BN Call Janice on 01340 820796 FOCHABERS 9.30am, 11.30am, 6.30pm The Scout Hall, Christie Place, Fochabers, IV32 7HN Call Sarah on 07872 474544 FORRES 7.30am, 9.30am,11.30am, 5.30pm, 7.30pm Scout Hall, Bank Lane, Forres, IV36 1NU Call Kay on 07768 131676 NAIRN 8am, 10am, 5.30pm, 7.30pm St Ninian Church, 6 Queens St, Nairn, IV12 4AA Call Dawn on 07712 051678
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THURSDAY ABERLOUR 5.30pm, 7.30pm The Fleming Hall Queens Road Aberlour AB38 9PR Call Megan on 07786 516556 ELGIN 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm Harvest Centre Elgin, 10 Greyfriars Street, Elgin, IV30 1LF Call Kirsty on 07595 882258 KEITH 3.30pm and 5.30pm Legion Scotland Keith & District, 63A Balloch Road, Keith, AB55 5EN Call Dawn on 07763 032849 LOSSIEMOUTH 5.30pm, 7.30pm Lossiemouth Community Centre, Coulardbank Road, Lossiemouth, IV31 6JW Call Joyce on 07813 559850
FRIDAY LOSSIEMOUTH 7.30am, 9.30am Lossiemouth Community Centre, Coulardbank Road, Lossiemouth, IV31 6JW Call Joyce on 07813 559850
SATURDAY ELGIN 7.30am, 9.30am New Elgin & Ashgrove Public Hall, Land Street, New Elgin, Elgin, IV30 6BN Call Kirsty on 07595 882258
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Discover the wonderfully diverse West Coast islands of Scotland the easy way with CalMac Ferries. You’ll be guaranteed good travel and connection times, regularity and service on all of our 28 routes. CalMac has been providing passenger ferry services to the west coast and peninsula communities for more than 150 years. Scotland’s west coast islands are magical places that offer something special for every visitor, for example great beaches, breath taking scenery and everywhere you go, a great Scottish welcome. Every island has its own individual character and charm. Irrespective of whether it’s a trip to the islands off the Clyde Coast, the Inner and Outer Hebrides, or Skye and the nearby Small Isles, all count amongst some of Scotland’s finest and most dramatic natural landscapes.
While you are on board While you are on board why not take advantage of our wide range of hot and cold snacks and meals - all prepared freshly on board and using locally sourced produce. Don’t forget to buy a few souvenirs too in our onboard shops.
CalMac Adventures A selection of day trips and mini cruises. Departing from Oban, Mallaig, Uig/Skye, and Ullapool as well as Wemyss Bay (for Bute) Kennacraig (for Islay) and Ardossan (for Kintyre and Arran) Take your pick from a short trip of a couple of hours, or a make a full day of it.
Further information Our website at www.calmac.co.uk offers a wealth of information about the routes and islands we serve – including detailed information on timetables, fares, day trips as well as updates on service status.
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T HE
MOUNTAIN OU O UNT U NT NTAI NTAIN TAIN A IN N
MINISTER
Not
walking
in
sunshine
By Rev. Dr Jon Mackenzie
Scotland
is
known
for
it.
Hill walkers have been trained by it to
best weather I have had on the hills has been
become a people of prayer: ‘please don’t rain,’
in October: cool mornings give way to bright
‘please stay dry,’ ‘please let those dark clouds
clear days, and the colours are phenomenal;
stay over there.’ It is as if they all belong to a
as if the hills are made of iron and have well
cult called the ‘Church of Meteorology.’ I was
and truly rusted over another long wet
walking this October, which means,
summer. Given the choice, I prefer to walk
weather-wise, I was pushing the limits of
when the weather is ‘good,’ a term I use
Scotland’s summer! Nevertheless, some of the
loosely in Scotland.
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I planned to bag a collection of five Munros not too far north of Glasgow, called the Arrochar Alps, and ideally I would have liked to be accompanied by dry, clear weather. Life is rarely ideal. I had three days set aside to walk as it takes about four hours to drive to Arrochar and I was not keen on making three return journeys. On Day One the weather looked promising and I had the relatively easy Ben Vorlich to tackle, a hill that rises up from Loch Sloy. Things were looking up from the start as one of the Hydro workers responded kindly to my outstretched thumb and gave me a ride to the start of the ascent. A new path had recently been completed and the ascent was sharp and steep, like climbing stairs. In no time at all I reached the long outstretched ridge and the easy traverse to the summit. Although it rained briefly on the way down, the fast, passing cloud made for some amazing panoramic photographs, as cloud often adds atmosphere to a scene. I really enjoyed climbing Ben Vorlich; there are great fissures of rock splitting away from the ridge, leaving jagged outcrops and chasms and caves. Definitely one to go back and explore over a few days.
Cobbler,’ an iconic hill that falls just short of Munro status. The ring of three included Ben Vane, Beinn Ime and Beinn Narnain, the last of which I cannot help call ‘Narnian.’ Stepping through a wardrobe to reach the summit would certainly be easier than walking! The weather held all day. It was cloudy on all three summits but a hundred foot off the tops and visibility improved drastically. Between Ben Vane and Beinn Ime, I stumbled upon a mass grave … of sheep. Just as most people like to bring back a souvenir from their trips, I am quite partial to a skull or two. If it wasn’t
The weather on the second day was favourably forecast which was music to my ears, as I was climbing three Munros and passing under the shadow of ‘The
great fissures of rock splitting away from the ridge , leaving jagged outcrops and chasms and caves.
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for the fact I had to carry them, I would have taken more than one, but one sufficed. There is nothing like a pile of bones and horned skulls in a valley of shrouded mist in the middle of nowhere to create a certain ambience! Four Munros down and one to go. Unfortunately, the weather for the next day was not looking favourable in the slightest. In fact, the morning forecast was indicating heavy, persistent rain, although it was due to pass around eleven o’clock. Should I call it a day and come back another time? Did I want to drive four hours home only to drive back again? I decided to ‘suck it up,’ head out and get wet, and hope things
would improve at the eleventh hour. When I left the hotel heading for Beinn Bhuidhe, it was not raining. I parked on a bend in the road between Inverary and Tarbet and prepared to set off down the long, private road that runs well into Glen Fyne. The first rain drops fell as I locked the car door and the heavens opened. There are few things more frustrating than walking for an hour down a perfectly good road in heavy rain knowing that you have a perfectly good car parked at the end of it. By the time I reached the marker in the road which was the signal to start going up, I took shelter in an old
shieling. I was already so wet I was close to turning back, but then I would have been soaked for nothing. I pressed on. About three quarters of the way up, the path petered out, visibility was limited and I could feel water in my boots. Not wanting to get lost in such abysmal conditions I angrily decided to turn back, but at the last moment I saw a faint trace of the path and decided to continue. Eleven o’clock came and went. It was still raining heavily. Twelve o’clock, one o’clock, no break in the clouds, no relief from the rain. I finally made it to the summit, touched the top and immediately descended to get out of the biting wind. I sat in a soggy dip,
I angrily decided to turn back , but at the last moment I saw a faint trace of the path
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took off my boots and poured out the water; took off my socks and wrung them out too. All I wanted to do was get back to the car and with the last half mile to go, the rain stopped and the sun came out, and I slowly squelched my way back, soaked to the skin. It would have been so much easier to give up half way through or not even attempt Beinn Bhuidhe that day, but the fact I had reached the summit felt great … afterwards, when I was warm and dry. Call it what you will, perseverance, tenacity, endurance, ‘true-grit,’ it does not really matter, what does matter is the reminder that there are many things
in this life that are unpleasant for a period of time but afterwards, they yield rewarding results. We can look back at something that was very unpleasant at the time and actually be glad we experienced it now it is over. In the New Testament book of Hebrews, the author says, ‘no discipline seems pleasant at the time, but painful. Later on, however, it produces a harvest of righteousness and peace for those who have been trained by it.’ Even the Lord Jesus Christ endured the cross before returning to glory; he knows what it is to suffer. No-one is immune from all suffering or escapes all hardship, but those who have a living relationship with Christ can confidently say with the psalmist, ‘weeping may last through the night, but joy comes with the morning’ (Ps. 30:5). For an eternal morning will one day dawn, when crying, mourning and pain will be no more, for those who trust in the Lord now and look forward to dwelling with him forever.
So for now, come rain or shine, pain or pleasure, sorrow or laughter, that day on Beinn Bhuidhe is a helpful reminder that it is not only sometimes necessary, but often also good, to persevere.
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W h o d e st roy e d E l g i n Cat he dral
?
This question, asked of fifty members of the public in Elgin High Street recently, elicited the following replies: 3 p e o ple said: S e arch me 7 p e o ple said: No ide a 1 p e rso n said: Batm an 3 9 pe o ple said: T h e Wolf of Ba denoc h Well, there would appear to be no doubt. The Wolf did it. But who was The Wolf of Badenoch; and was this ‘bogey-man’ in fact responsible for the destruction of the once magnificent edifice which has graced the fair town (formerly City and Royal Burgh) of Elgin since the thirteenth century; and which is yet, even in its ruinous state, a truly impressive medieval monument? Shall we endeavour to sort fact from fiction - try to create a balance between the written history and the popular myths passed by word of mouth and penned by romantics over the centuries? Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan and Lord of Badenoch 1343-1405, an illegitimate son of Robert 11 of Scotland, was the stuff of which legends are made. Appointed by his father as Justiciar of Scotia, or the Crown’s Chief Law officer in Northern Scotland, Alexander had considerable power and was granted land and property commensurate with his status. From his stronghold on Lochindorb he effectively ruled over a great part of Scotland, having Crown authority from Inverness to the Pentland Firth; but the King’s Lord Lieutenant was a reprobate who recklessly abused his authority and chose to operate outside the law. With his private cateran force he terrorised the country, burning, wrecking, raping and looting at will. Landowners, large or small, who refused to comply with his ‘protection’ terms were imprisoned or murdered, and ‘relieved’ of their land and property. And one of those landowners who was reluctant to meet the extortionate demands was Alexander Bur, Bishop of Moray, an eminent ecclesiastic who chose to defy the King’s representative and whom the avaricious Lord Lieutenant had accused of usurping his judicial authority. The enmity which developed between the Lord of Badenoch and the powerful priest responsible for having the king’s rather indulged son excommunicated because of his lawlessness and marital infidelity, was to have far reaching consequences. In the Spring of 1390 the rebel earl, seeking revenge for being – in his
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Landowners, large or small, who refused to comply with his ‘protection’ terms were imprisoned or murdered, and ‘relieved’ of their land and property.
eyes - so slighted by Alexander Bur, whom he described as an ‘upstart prelate’, set fire to the town of Elgin, causing the poor inhabitants to flee for their lives into the surrounding countryside; sacked our great cathedral and razed to the ground two monasteries, St. Giles Church and The Hospital of Maison Dieu. And for good measure the renegade incendiary and his riotous gang of outlaws, set ablaze the town of Forres, St. Laurence Church there, and the priory at Pluscarden – all of which institutions came under the aegis of The Bishop of Moray.
T h e C a thed ral i n 1 5 3 8
Bishop Bur protested strongly to Alexander’s brother – just lately become Robert III on the death of his father – but the new King, having witnessed ‘Big Alexander’ doing penance and promising to repent, absolved him of his crimes and caused him to be received back into the Church. Unfortunately, the repentance was only temporary, and the errant lord continued his reign of terror. Incidentally, it is probable that the heinous acts of 1390 earned Alexander Stewart the soubriquet ‘The Wolf of Badenoch’; but there is no record of the appellation being used in his lifetime. And so, Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan and Lord of Badenoch did burn Elgin Cathedral, causing extensive damage to the church and its precincts; but he was not the first incendiary. Nor was he the last. In the West Tower of Elgin Cathedral may still be seen evidence of the first ‘Great Conflagration’ of 1270 ignited by an unknown arsonist only a few years after the completion of the Episcopal See. The cathedral, described by The Chartulary of
Moray as ‘The mirror of the country and the glory of the kingdom’ was rebuilt and significantly enlarged; but in addition to the outrage perpetrated by ‘The Wolf of Badenoch’ a century later, this grand structure would suffer several further indignities. On 3rd July 1402 Elgin was again set alight when Alexander of Lochaber, brother of Donhnall of Islay, Lord of the Isles, in a fit of pique against his brother and Bishop William of Moray burned much of Elgin and ‘spulzied’ the quite recently renovated cathedral, causing great damage and making off with many treasures. Alexander of Lochaber was ex-communicated; but after doing penance and proffering gifts he too was absolved. During the following relatively uneventful hundred or so years Elgin Cathedral was once again repaired and greatly extended; reaching the zenith of its glory in the 15th century. But the glory days were over when, in 1560, with the Reformation and the end of the Pope’s authority over the Scottish Church, the congregation abandoned the cathedral in favour of the Parish Church of St. Giles, taking with them the bells, much of the furniture and the plate. In 1568 the cathedral was stripped of its lead roof by order of the Privy Council and sold to maintain the soldiers of Regent Moray. Without this protection the building deteriorated. In 1637 the rafters over the choir were blown down, and in 1640 ardent Covenanters tore down the great rood screen and used it for firewood. The tracery of the West window was
T h e ma in wes t p o rtal b ef o re th e Reformation
the rebel earl, ŸåƋ Āųå ƋŅ ƋĘå ƋŅƵĹ of Elgin, causing t he poor inhabitants to āåå üŅų ƋĘåĜų ĬĜƴåŸ into the surroundi ng countryside; sacked our great cathedral and razed to the ground two monasteries
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This eyesore may have become a per manent blight on the landscape were it not for the ent erprise of a local shoemaker demolished some time between 1659 and 1660 by the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell. And on Easter Monday 1711 the central tower collapsed. But the final affront was perpetrated against Elgin Cathedral by the population of Elgin. Local builders used the building as a quarry, employing finely carved stones from the fallen masonry on various building projects in town. And for more than a hundred years the townspeople used the cathedral as a dumping ground. This eyesore may have become a permanent blight on the landscape were it not for the enterprise of a local shoemaker, the doughty John Shanks, who, in around 1824, single-handedly cleared away around 3000 barrowloads of rubbish and rubble. John’s work inspired others to aid in the clearing up. Members of the Morayshire Farmers Club provided wagons and labour to convey the detritus to the Order Pot at the East end of the
19t h -c e n t u r y de pi c t i o n o f t h e bu rn i n g o f El g i n C a t h e dra l
town into which all (including perhaps valuable architectural remnants?) was unceremoniously dumped. Notable among the supporters of John Shanks, whose labours had exposed much of the foundations of the cathedral, including the elevation at the altar and the steps at the West Gate, was one Isaac Forsyth, a local entrepreneur, bookseller, historian, founder member of Elgin Museum, and all-round polymath. This renowned citizen of Elgin was instrumental in having the humble shoemaker appointed Keeper of Elgin Cathedral with a fine new cottage in the grounds. Incidentally, both John Shanks and his mentor, Isaac Forsyth, are buried in the churchyard of their beloved cathedral - in a suitable position perhaps to keep a close eye on the conservation work inspired by them and still going on apace today, under the auspices of Historic Environment Scotland.
And so, to return to the question: Who destroyed Elgin Cathedral? Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan and Lord of Badenoch, aka ‘The Wolf of Badenoch’, one of the most rapacious villains of Scottish history, did, in 1390, set much of Elgin ablaze and greatly damage its magnificent cathedral; but this infamous criminal must not be held solely responsible for the destruction of the Episcopal See. In fact, as we have seen, many and varied were the indignities inflicted on ‘The Lantern of the North’ and many and varied were the culprits.
But rather than apportioning blame and thereby risk rekindling old flames, why don’t we just ‘let sleeping dogs (or wolves) lie’ and simply rejoice and proudly boast of the great spectacle that is Elgin Cathedral.
3
The Cathedral now
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BOOK CLUB Adult Non-Fiction
I talk too much
Adult Non-Fiction
By Francis Rossi
War Doctor By David Nott
For more than twenty-five years, David Nott has taken unpaid leave from his job as a general and vascular surgeon with the NHS to volunteer in some of the world's most dangerous war zones: Afghanistan, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Darfur, Congo, Iraq, Yemen, Libya, Gaza and Syria. But he has also volunteered in areas blighted by natural disasters, such as the earthquakes in Haiti and Nepal. Realising that doctors on the ground needed to learn how to treat the appalling injuries that war inflicts upon its victims, David, with his wife, Elly, set up a foundation to train doctors in the art of saving lives threatened by bombs and bullets.
Rossi reveals the truth behind one of the biggest rock bands of all time, as well as the personal highs and lows of a career spanning over 50 years break-ups, make-ups, groupies, band politics, court battles, the tragic death of Rick Parfitt This is Francis Rossi as you have never seen him before.
Adult Fiction
To Kill the Truth By Sam Bourne Someone is trying to destroy the evidence of history's greatest crimes. Academics and Holocaust survivors dead in mysterious circumstances. Museums and libraries burning. Digital records and irreplaceable proofs, lost for ever. Former White House operative Maggie Costello has sworn off politics. But when the Governor of Virginia seeks her help to stop the lethal spiral of killings, she knows that this is bigger than any political game.
Adult Non-Fiction
The Five
By Hallie Rubenhold Annie, Elizabeth, Catherine and Mary-Jane are famous for the same thing, though they never met. They came from Fleet Street, Knightsbridge, Wolverhampton, Sweden and Wales. They wrote ballads, ran coffee houses, lived on country estates, they breathed ink dust from printing presses and escaped people-traffickers. What they had in common was the year of their murders: 1888. The person responsible was never identified, but the character created by the press to fill that gap has become far more famous than any of these five women. The author attempts to set the record straight, presenting the real stories of The Five.
Junior Fiction
Kid Normal By Greg James and Chris Smith After a dramatic jailbreak at a top secret prison, the planet's most dangerous supervillains are on the loose! Luckily Murph Cooper and the Super Zeroes are on hand to chase them down. But though they manage to bring in a whole host of baddies, they can't find their nemesis Magpie anywhere. Little do they know that he is close by, and he's linked up with another old enemy. The super smarmy Nicholas Knox is back!
Adult Fiction
You Know You Want This
Junior Fiction
The Taking of Annie Thorne By CJ Tudor
By Kristen Roupenian A compulsive collection of short stories about sex, dating and modern life. These are stories of women's lives now. They also happen to be horror stories. In some, women endure the horror. In others, they inflict it. Here are women at work, at home, on dates, at the doctor's, with their families and with their friends. Here are women grappling with desire, punishment, guilt and anger. Funny, furious, sly and explicit, this collection takes a long, hard look at the messed-up power dynamic between men and women HUK TLZZLZ P[ \W ZVTL TVYL °
One night, Annie went missing. Disappeared from her own bed. There were searches, appeals. Everyone thought the worst. And then, miraculously, after forty-eight hours, she came back. But she couldn't, or wouldn't, say what had happened to her. Something happened to my sister. I can't explain what. I just know that when she came back, she wasn't the same. She wasn't my Annie. I didn't want to admit, even to myself, that sometimes I was scared to death of my own little sister.
Young Fiction
Pog
By Padraig Kenny Tin David and Penny's strange new home is surrounded by forest. It's the childhood home of their mother, who's recently died. But other creatures live here ... magical creatures, like tiny, hairy Pog. He's one of the First Folk, protecting the boundary between the worlds. As the children explore, they discover monsters slipping through from the place on the other side of the cellar door. Meanwhile, David is drawn into the woods by something darker, which insists there's a way he can bring his mother back ...
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Innes House is a 17th century Scottish country house set in the Moray countryside. Surrounded by a beautiful landscaped walled garden and a marquee that encloses the memorial garden, this venue is not only stunning, but unique. Family owned, lived in and run, we take pride in helping you to create the wedding of your dreams. Our close knit staff will welcome you & your guests, and help you to plan a day that you will never forget.
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You can opt to get married in our gardens where we have 3 areas that you can choose from, or inside in one of our ballrooms.
The marquee is attached to the house and creates a dining area, whilst the ballroom next to it becomes your dance floor in the evening. You and your guests can dine in the marquee around the fountain and enjoy the delights of dining outdoors whilst under cover. The summer house turns into a fully functioning bar, also inside the marquee. After a good night's sleep in one of our en-suite bedrooms, you can have a relaxing breakfast in the Red ballroom, with views across the gardens and rolling countryside.
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f i v e
s t e p s
What is a capsule wardrobe? A capsule wardrobe is a limited collection of clothes that coordinate well and can be worn in a number of different ways to cater for multiple occasions. The items should be made up of separates and include a handful of seasonal pieces you can change with the unpredictable Scottish weather.
Why is it a good idea to have one? If you want to spend less time and money on clothes but still look good then a capsule wardrobe is for you.
Step 1:
Select Your Base Colour First, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to decide if you want to use navy or black as your base colour. Black and navy are the two most commonly seen colours in capsule wardrobes. Black is an all-around great base to use because it goes with so many other colours. If you would rather not use black, then navy goes well with several other colours as well.
Select Your Neutral colours When you select these essentials, make sure they are all neutral colours, like black, white, gray, chambray or beige. Chambray is a type of material that looks like denim but is soft. It comes in light blue, medium blue or dark blue shades. All these colours coordinate well with each other.
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Step 2:
Step 3:
Choose Your Accent Color Is your favorite colour salmon pink, olive green, navy blue or burgundy? Go ahead and add a few tops or bottoms in your favorite colour.
Add A Few Patterned Items and Layers
Step 4:
Now, add 1, 2 or 3 patterned items. They can be tops, bottoms, skirts or dresses.This type of top will go with nearly everything in your wardrobe. If you choose a floral top or trousers, make sure the colours in the top, trousers or skirt coordinates with your accent colour and your base colours.
Step 5:
Choose your Shoes and Accessories Now, that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve completed creating the majority of your capsule wardrobe, you can add your shoes and accessories. The number of pairs of shoes you choose and the types of shoe depends on your lifestyle. For accessories, choose one or two handbags. Add a statement necklace or one or two scarves to complete your capsule.
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Naomi Bunyan FE AT U RE D AR TIST In 2017 I moved from England up to Scotland, the drive behind this move was lifestyle, enjoying our children, and rekindling my relationship with art. I have always played with the idea of having a narrative in the background of each piece of art I produce. From detailed scenery, to hazy, blurred images that both confuse and intrigue the viewer. I love colour and started to work with colours in a playful way, abstract blocks of colour pulled together by a more precise definite outline. The expressive use of colour allowed me to be more confident with my painting, and not be so concerned with accuracy, or getting the piece to be photo-realistic. At art school I would spend days on a portrait, painstakingly striving for the most accurate portrayal that I could achieve. I have loved exploring the wildlife here and painting what I see as each animal’s personality. (image 5) “Glorious Osprey” is one of the first pieces I painted when we moved up here. I was struck by the blues of the sky, and the
( IMAGE 1) EL E PHANT LOVE 3
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sea, and how even on a miserable day you can see colour. I have seen so many beautiful birds of prey, gliding, sitting, watching. This particular piece is exciting and full of graceful movement, capturing the essence of this bird. (image 6) I love to paint in acrylic because I think the colours can be so vibrant, and crisp. When I decide on the colour background I try to picture the colours I want to use for the animal and how the background will enhance the look of the animal. (image 1) I truly love painting the elephants. I feel a connection with them, especially when it is a mummy and her calf. They are so humble and beautiful. I really want to express the relationship of the elephants with each other, and give a sense of love and joy. I know
Highland cow... makes for a happy painting, to be enjoyed every time you look ³$ > + ³ !³§ ³$ ³ $ ´ # ³ # ³Œ' ! ³' ' !³§ >
they are not â&#x20AC;&#x153;Scottish wildlifeâ&#x20AC;?, but they are so wonderful to paint.
(IMAG E 2 ) H AIRY CO O
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F EATU R ED A R TIST
I love to paint in acrylic because I think the colours can be so vibrant, and crisp. NAOMI AT WORK
I want the viewer to be drawn in by their eyes.
(IMAGE 6) HARE
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I was struck by the blues of the sky, and the sea, and how even on a miserable day ' ´³ 6 ´ #> (IMAGE 3) STAG ALMIGHTY
(image 4) Wolves are animals that
(image 2) Highland cow is potentially
give so much away with their eyes.
controversial, but I adore painting this
Their look can be intense and
beauty. There is so much movement that I
intimidating. They are also so beautiful,
can describe, just with the direction of his
and painting them is very fulfilling. I want
hair. Being free to use any colour for each
the viewer to be drawn in by their eyes.
strand is liberating and so enjoyable. He
(image 3) The stag is an animal I felt a little wary about painting initially as he is so iconic. But, with my individual use of colour I think I have made him my own. Opting to use purple, not brown, orange not ochre. One is still looking at a stag but he is full of colour and wonder.
makes for a happy painting, to be enjoyed every time you look at him. I am so passionate about colour and he really displays my passion.
i Naom (IMAGE 4) WOLF PAIR
(IMAGE 5) GLORIOUS OSPREY 3
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