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Pickle and preserves recipes

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The Last Word

The Last Word

IN A PICKLE

This month FRAN STEVENS, aka The Food Wife, is making the most of the abundance of autumn by rustling up chutneys, jams and pickles.

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SPICY APPLE CHUTNEY

Makes approx 1 litre of chutney

With all the cooking apples available at the moment this chutney is the perfect recipe to use up your windfalls. It requires no skill and yet you create the most wonderfully spicy chutney. This has a good kick from the homemade spice mix but you can always adjust this to taste. You do not have to use the combination of chillies I have suggested; by all means just use chilli flakes if you can’t get your hands on dried ancho chillies, for instance.

I used a spice grinder to blitz them all to a fine powder, but with a bit of hard work you could use a pestle and mortar. ✃

Ingredients 400g caster sugar 400ml cider vinegar 2 white onions, peeled and roughly chopped Roughly 1kg apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped 2 handfuls raisins or sultanas 1 inch ginger, peeled and finely chopped

Spice mix ½ dried ancho chilli, roughly torn 1 cinnamon stick 3 cloves Pinch salt 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 2 tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp all spice Method Use a spice grinder to blitz all of the spice mix ingredients together into a smooth powder.

Combine all ingredients (including the spice mix) in a large, heavybottomed saucepan.

Bring to the boil, and then simmer, uncovered for about an hour and a half To two hours, until the mix stays separated for a coupled seconds when a spoon is dragged through it.

Transfer into sterilised jars and keep in the fridge.

This chutney is wonderful with cheese or cold meats. Store in the fridge, especially once opened.

Tromboncino Pickle

Makes approx 2-2.5 litres

About 15 years ago I tried a pickle made from pumpkin that was simply delicious. Sweet and vinegary with a lovely bite. I was thinking about this pickle (as you do) and wondering if I could make my own version with my hardened tromboncino squash this winter (normally a summer squash, used raw). The neck of a tromboncino lends itself perfectly to being cut into the thin rounds for the pickle, with minimum effort (all it needs is to be peeled and thinly sliced). If you don’t have a tromboncino squash, then use a butternut squash or pumpkin, it will just take a little extra effort to cut them into the small rounds (about two inches wide is best).

Over time the pickle will soften and lose its lovely bite so this is best eaten fresh (I am intending to devour mine over the next couple of months).

Ingredients 1.2kg tromboncino neck, peeled and cut into thin (3mm) slices 400g white onion (about 4 medium), peeled and cut into thin rounds For the pickling liquid 3 cups of cider vinegar 3 cups of caster sugar 2 tbsp yellow mustard seeds 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp turmeric

Method Place the prepared squash and onion rounds in a large bowl and cover with the salt and water. Cover with a layer of cling film or a plate, and then place a heavy object on top (I used a cast iron cooking pot but a pan filled with water would work) and leave for about 12 hours (or over night).

Drain the salted water from the squash and onion and then rinse thoroughly under cold running water to wash off any excess salt.

In a large pan heat the vinegar, sugar and spices until the sugar is dissolved and the liquid is just boiling.

Add the rinsed squash and onion and bring the whole thing back to a simmer. Switch off immediately and then ladle into sterilised jars.

BLACKBERRY JAM

Makes 8 jars

There is something very satisfying about picking fruit for free and making something delicious from it. I’m sure it makes it more tasty.

This weekend we went blackberry picking along the canal by our home and managed to collect a hefty haul and I knew exactly what I wanted to do with them. Several passers by stopped to ask what they’d be turned in to; a pie, crumble, jam? That was the winner.

I made this naturally gluten-free and I also ensured it was vegan and dairy free. You will need a large heavybottomed pan, eight jam jars and lids (plus wax circles or other sealants), and a sugar thermometer is useful, but not necessary.

Ingredients 1.75kg blackberries, washed 1.5kg jam sugar Juice of 1 lemon

Method Place the blackberries, sugar and lemon juice in a large, heavybottomed saucepan. Place a saucer in the freezer.

Heat the pan gently so the sugar dissolves into the natural juices of the blackberries. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5-10 minutes (or, if using a sugar thermometer, when it reaches 102°C).

Remove from the heat whilst you test the consistency. Take the saucer from the freezer and put a tsp of the liquid on to it. Leave it to cool and then push you finger in to it. If it wrinkles, it has reached the right consistency. If not, return the pan to the heat for another couple of minutes and test again. Repeat this until you have reached the right consistency, at which point remove from the heat and skim off any scum collected on the top. n.b. If you are not keeping this vegan/dairy-free you could add a small knob of butter at this point to help dissolve any remaining scum. Allow the jam to settle for 10 minutes before ladling into sterilised jars.

Seal appropriately (wax seals, lids etc.) and store in a cool dark place (they should keep like this for several months). Refrigerate after opening.

• thefoodwife.co.uk

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