SETT
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DISCOVER NEW DESIGNERS w olf a n d b a d g er.com Spr ing / Summe r 2014
www.wolfandbadger.com
FOUNDERS’ LETTER
WOLF & BADGER MAYFAIR 32 Dover Street, London, W1S 4NE | 020 3627 3191 Monday - Wednesday 11:00am - 6:30pm, Thursday - Saturday 11:00am - 7:00pm, Sunday 12:00pm - 5:00pm
WOLF & BADGER NOTTING HILL 46 Ledbury Road, London, W11 2AB | 020 7229 5698
INTRODUCING THE SETT
Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 6:30pm, Sunday 11:00am - 5:00pm
It is a pleasure to introduce the first issue of The Sett - a showcase of just some of the outstanding design talent we work with at Wolf & Badger in our Mayfair, Notting Hill and online stores.
EDITOR’S PICKS THE SAVOY COLLECTION
For over four years we have been presenting the finest independent brands to savvy shoppers seeking unique or limited edition pieces from exciting new labels. As well as customers, we are also proud to welcome stylists, press and industry buyers to our stores to discover new designers.
Wolf & Badger is pleased to have been selected as a luxury retail partner for The Savoy Hotel in London. Visit The Savoy to browse this unique selection of individual items from our independent luxury brands.
From fashion to homewares, accessories to jewellery, we carry a diverse and eclectic range of items, but always with a shared theme of high quality workmanship, innovative design and sourced from an independent designer who deserves support. It is the designer who receives most of the proceeds from each sale. Enjoy reading this first edition and discovering just some of what we have to offer, but remember - whether you’re a stylist, blogger, industry buyer or simply a fashion lover - you can find many more designers and further inspiration in our London stores or online at wolfandbadger.com.
George & Henry Graham (Co-Founders of Wolf & Badger)
THE SETT CONTRIBUTORS
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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
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1. Hester Travel Jewellery Box, £150, Stow London 2. Alpaca Fringe Scarf, £210, Gudrun and Gudrun 3. Reason Teacup & Saucer, £80, Richard Brendon 4. Lombard Blue Chip Boxer, £38, Hamilton & Hare
As a soft introduction to the less-thanordinary retail hub that is Wolf & Badger, our very first issue of The Sett is an attempt to rationalise what we do and why. Lucy Choi talks women in the workplace, Monsieur Fox gives us a guide to being a modern gentleman and Tessa Metcalfe tells us just how much the pigeons simply ‘don’t mind’. The Sett houses quite a menagerie of people and objects, reflective of the range of curiosities we have on offer. As a blossoming business, we rely a lot upon the helpful nature of others. We have been lucky enough to work with some of the most exciting up-and-coming talent in the process of compiling our first issue of The Sett. We also mustn’t forget to extend a huge thank you to the Wolf & Badger designers for their continued support and cooperation, and we look forward to seeing them flourish in the coming seasons.
LILY SILVERTON
LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES
Film Director
Photographer
Lily Silverton is Fashion Features Director at POP Magazine and Editor/Head of Special Projects for thepop.com. She also works independently as a Creative Director and Filmmaker and her clients include Calvin Klein, Diesel, Cartier, From Somewhere and Kitty Joseph. Lily is committed to supporting young emerging designers and is a big fan of Wolf & Badger.
Lauren Michelle Pires is a freelance photographer and nail artist based in London. Lauren studied Graphic Design at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 2011; her grad show lead to her being headhunted by both Louis Vuitton and Topshop. Since then, she’s worked with brands including Agent Provocateur, Nike and ES Magazine, for whom she shoots a regular LFW Backstage feature.
INDIA TRUSSELLE
ALESSIO MATTA
FEDERICO GREGORINI
Stylist
Sassoon Hair Stylist
NARS Lead Makeup Stylist
India Trusselle cut her teeth in the styling world working with celebrity stylists Rene Lou Padora, Cher Coulter, and more recently for Damian and Avigail Collins at Silver Spoon Attire. Now India is forging her own career in the industry working with editorial and commercial clients such as Notion, i-D, PPQ, Samsung and Alfa Romeo, whilst continuing to work within the music industry.
Growing up, hairdresser Alessio Matta always wanted to work at Sassoon after watching videos and reading books about Vidal. Alessio began his career with Sassoon in 2005 in London. Today Alessio works with leading style publications such as, GQ Style, i-D, and The Daily Telegraph, while his collaborations with designers Edeline Lee, Nicole Farhi, YMC and Xander Zhou have achieved critical acclaim.
Federico Gregorini is a NARS Lead Makeup Stylist, fulfilling a position designed to help communicate the philosophies and ideals that François Nars bestowed on the company. Federico has been in the industry for over ten years and has worked with designers such as Celine, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Helmet Lang, Phillip Lim, Thakoon and Roland Mouret.
5. Bosworth Rosewood, £120, Finlay & Co
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www.wolfandbadger.com
White dress: Jessica Choay, shoes: Angeline Lee, clutch: Grace Atelier de Luxe, bangles: Tilayo, rings: Ruifier and CF Concept Cover and polaroid. Green cape and trousers: Kith & Kin, shoes: Angeline Lee, necklace: CF Concept
CONTENTS
SP RING/SU M M E R 2 0 1 4 07
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SPRING SUMMER 2014 TRENDS
MONSIEUX FOX
Our guide to perfecting the catwalk looks this season
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A 5-step guide to becoming a modern gentleman
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BEHIND THE SCENES
AKAPELLO
We talk to Director Lily Silverton about Fashion Film
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Mens accessories design duo talk about the art of brotherhood
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INTRODUCING GALET
MENSWEAR TRENDS
The French footwear designer teaches us some life lessons
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This season’s prints get graphical
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LUCY CHOI
SERGE DENIMES
The ladies shoe designer talks women in the workplace
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We delve into designer Ollie Proudlock’s psyche
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TESSA METCALFE
FEBRUARY NEW DESIGNERS
We meet the designer and discuss all things pigeon
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Meet the emerging design talent that joined us this February
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PASSING HAZE
NEW DESIGNER Q&A
We take to The Savoy for a naughty weekend in pictures
Editor: Fran Mullin
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Les Cinq designer Lisa takes us on an imaginary ride around Paris
Art Director & Graphics: Natalie Solomon
Wolf & Badger, 32 Dover Street, London, W1S 4NE
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In House Photography: Emily Cuthbert
Printed in the UK by Polestar
COUTURE HAIR DESIGN ALWAYS READY TO WEAR
TO FinD YOuR nEAREST SALOn viSiT www.sassoon-salon.com
SASSOOn.COM
www.wolfandbadger.com
TRENDS
FLORA & FAUNA Put a spring in your step with pieces plucked straight from the wilderness
1. I Love a Lassie 2. Pomegranate 3. Jock Fairweather 4. Elyona 5. Beautiful Bottoms 6. JohannaN 7. Nyamanti 8. Beautiful Bottoms 9. Tessa Metcalfe 10. Batya Kebudi 11. Paola Balzano 11
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Marni SS14
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Suno SS14
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PALE & INTERESTING Choose a hue to suit your complexion and embrace the dainty loveliness of these airy tones 1. SheBee 2. Sunita Mukhi 3. Luca Michele 4. A-Line 5. Plum London 6. SheBee 7. Judy Wu 8. Dear Frances 9. Penmayne 10. Claire Gaudion 11. Lukas Gschwandtner
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Lanvin SS14
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Vionnet SS14
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Antonio Berardi SS14
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DKNY SS14
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www.wolfandbadger.com
clothes are meant to be seen in motion, fashion film is to some degree the future (especially once it becomes more interactive). One thing I will say is that the industry still doesn’t quite grasp how much money it takes to make a film! How do you use sound/music in your films? How does it add to the character of the piece? In the way that I work, the edit comes first (chronologically) but sound is of paramount importance – it can make or break a film. I don’t get very involved in the process of developing it myself; there are a couple of incredible musicians and producers who I work with (Zoniel, Aaron Audio and Will Skeaping) and I trust them absolutely! How is commercial work different to strict fashion film? It’s not that different if you focus on the end product and enjoy the process. Big brands often have a clear idea of what they want, so sometimes you have to be more intelligent in your methods as a director in getting what you want. Ultimately with both types of film you are selling a product and I think it’s naïve of people to ignore that. I really don’t like it when you can’t see the fashion in fashion films.
What websites do you get inspiration from? Do you get lost on YouTube?
INTERVIEW
LILY SILVERTON
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Thepop.com! Actually I’m a bit of a technophobe in that area, I prefer the real world for inspiration. Once I know what I’m looking for I’ll use Pinterest to moodboard, but that’s about it. I try not to watch too many other fashion films – otherwise I find myself comparing my aesthetic (unfavourably) to someone else’s, which is just not productive. Although I love watching YouTube videos about space, does that count?
Director of Wolf & Badger shor t films
ily always loved fashion, but for a long time held the idea that it wasn’t a ‘real’ career. Originally studying to be a human rights lawyer, Lily realised shortly into an MA that it wasn’t for her. ‘The day I quit I was offered a Fashion Editor position at Arthur and Albert Magazine, so I took it! I had no idea what I was doing – Walter Hugo & Zoniel took a real chance on me. We lived together at the time and I guess they saw something in me that I didn’t!’ Styling led to directing shoots, which then led on to film. From university onwards, Lily worked as a freelance journalist. After several commissions from POP she eventually became Fashion Features Editor (now Director) as well as Special Projects Editor for thepop.com. We spoke to Lily about the future of film in the fashion industry.
What do you think the audience gains from film over print? With fashion film you get to see the clothes in motion, which is obviously how they are supposed to be seen. So I guess you can gain a truer reflection of the shape and fit and are able to empathise more with the image. I am a big fan of print, I’ve just found that film makes more sense to me. What are the difficulties/limitations in translating fashion into film? I don’t feel that there are any major difficulties. In fact there is an openness and fluidity to film that works for me. Photographs can be more forgiving – you can hide/adjust more in post production. But I think taking that one perfect picture is harder than making a film… What’s the most bizarre project you’ve worked on? Actually the A/W 12 Wolf & Badger film was pretty bizarre… filming naked models in the middle of a cold winter night in an unheated (outdoor) swimming pool with some Shetland ponies. I thought it was totally normal (as I wrote it) but it was a bit surreal. How has fashion film been received by the fashion industry? Is the industry waking up to the potential of this trend? I think it’s fairly well received. POP are very supportive and I guess we are industry! I reckon everyone understands now that because
Rose Gold Dragon Cufflink, £105, ONA CHAN
Rhodium Claw Necklace, £290, ONA CHAN
Dragon Claw Ring, £105, ONA CHAN
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Rhodium Dragon Cufflink, £95, ONA CHAN
www.wolfandbadger.com
Do you use social media apps such as Vine? Do you feel pressure to always present considered pieces? I don’t Vine but I use Tumblr and Instagram. I guess I want my images to reflect me and my work, but I don’t feel that much pressure to present something considered. I am not always considered, so it’s fine by me if my pieces reflect that. What new technologies are you most excited about? Robots. What skills/tools do budding fashion film makers need in their arsenal? A creative mind. Patience. Diplomacy. Good team to work with. Maybe fcpx (knowledge of video editing software). What advice would you give to a budding fashion film-maker? Galet SS14
Don’t give up. I’m forever encountering people who have this idea that success comes quickly and easily. It doesn’t. You have to work really, really hard. On that note, get used to working evenings and weekends. Film anything you see that inspires you, so that you build an arsenal of work to draw from. Don’t take yourself too seriously, but always enjoy what you do.
GALET
FIVE THINGS EVERY MAN NEEDS IN HIS LIFE Galet is a playful but classic French footwear brand for men. At the heart of the SS14 slipper collection are hand-drawn, imaginative patterns printed on canvas. These timeless designs are more than just drawings. Each pair of Galet slippers has a surprise cheekily placed amongst the print, designed to be discovered and enjoyed at leisure. The collection is aimed at internationally mobile gentlemen who need versatile shoes that can be worn in the city, at the beach or for cocktails in the evening. By Javier Gogging. Galet is available online and in our Mayfair and Notting Hill stores.
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Back Pocket Joke Every man needs one good joke they can tell well. It’s like an ace in your back pocket and can be the tipping point that lands you the job, gets you the girl, makes you king of the dinner party. Practice makes perfect. If you can’t tell it well, don’t. Clockwise from top left: Wolf & Badger have tea, Camera films scene, Badger has a rest, Lily checks on the composition, Lily coordinating the shoot
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Watch A gentleman wears a watch. Time is precious, right? It doesn’t matter if it’s your grandfather’s vintage Rolex or a bright orange Swatch, you need a timepiece. If it’s not heirloom quality, it should be cheap and fun. Nothing in between will do - mid range watches don’t pack much style and will make you look dull.
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Dinner Jacket Sometimes a gentleman gets dressed up. A bespoke dinner jacket is the ultimate luxury. Whether you’re wearing it to a black tie affair or throwing it over your jeans and crisp shirt, you’ll wear it for the rest of your life and then give it to your son.
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Galet Slippers Shoes matter. Galet slippers look great with everything from a rumpled linen suit to chinos to shorts.
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Pocket Square Because the devil is in the detail.
Dragon Corded Bracelet, £50, ONA CHAN Galet SS14
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www.wolfandbadger.com
What was the biggest life adjustment you’ve ever had to make? I launched my shoe label at the same time that I had my son Thomas. Juggling work and being a mother has been the biggest adjustment. My life before I had my son was dominated by work. Now I find it is really important to balance my friends, my family, my relationship and my work to feel complete.
Lucy Choi
INTERVIEW
LUCY CHOI Born into the house of Choo, Lucy Choi had some pretty large shoes to fill when embarking on her eponymous footwear brand. As a businesswoman and designer in her own right, Choi brings a unique selling point to a market saturated with products at each extreme of the price spectrum. Fran Mullin speaks to her about motherhood, affordable luxury and equality in the workplace… Has running a shoe empire ever tarnished your enjoyment of shoes? Not at all, I’ve always loved shoes, it’s in my DNA. This is my dream job. What is your first shoe memory? When I was young, aged 4 or 5 I used to love trying on my mother’s high heels and trying to walk in those shoes. It was heaven to me. How do you put your feet up at the end of a long day? At home I collect Diptique candles and have around 50 in my bathroom. I love to light them all, have a long bath to relax and allow myself some time to think. What is the best barefoot feeling? On the beach at Langkawi, Malaysia. It is very remote and the one place where I can totally relax. Plus my phone doesn’t work there. What was your very first job? I began my career by spending 8 years working in the financial world. I then joined French Sole in 2002 to help them to build the brand and grow the company both in the UK and internationally. I eventually became the MD and oversaw every aspect of the business including the retail and wholesale business plus the marketing and PR. It prepared me well and I gained a sound knowledge of the mid-price shoe market and its customers.
Notting Hill, £245, LUCY CHOI
and classic. The collection reflects my own personal style and that inner chameleon all girls have.
In your travels, have you noticed any cultural variants in how women wear shoes? Yes, Asia particularly stands out. I have found that Asians are not afraid of colour or to try new things. They tend to be I work just as many hours as I did before Thomas, but I have had quite edgy and experimental with fashion. At the same time, to become more efficient and can work on less sleep. I also don’t they are also are very discerning, savvy customers. Comfort, have the time to waste on negatives. I quality and price are also very front of like a challenge and find I work best mind for them and I’ve noticed they do under pressure, and I’m happy that both not tend to make impulse purchases, as “I think companies babies have happened at the same time! we tend to in the UK. They do thorough My grandmother had her own business research before they purchase. should provide proper and had 7 children, she proved it can be done! To make it work you have to have Do you think heels empower women? work experience; it’s a strong partnership – I truly believe I think heels are very empowering for that behind every business there is a women, particularly for work. They where you learn the most make you stand tall, elongate your legs strong partner! My husband’s support has allowed me to juggle both the birth and make you hold your body better and can decide on of my business and my baby – I honestly which naturally gives you confidence. I don’t know what I used to do with my find shoes empowering, whatever your time before I had Thomas. body image. I challenge you to find a the right career woman who doesn’t feel more confident Do you consider yourself a particularly or attractive when she puts on her for you.” independent person? favourite pair of shoes. Yes. Thanks to my parents’ strong work ethic, we are all very independent and have inherited the Do you think there is still a glass ceiling for women in the entrepreneurial spirit. We are all very hard working, handscorporate world? on and determined. My sister and brother also have their own Nowadays more and more women are reaching the top in the businesses. My other sister Sandra (Creative Director of Jimmy corporate world. I believe that women are able to juggle more Choo) is very driven and has also become very successful in - it’s in our DNA! I also believe that with the right attitude you her own right in the luxury shoe world. can achieve anything. I am close to my Uncle (Jimmy Choo) and learnt many lessons Do you think the same is true of the fashion world? from watching him at work, Traditionally the shoe world especially his strong work ethic was dominated by men but there and values. I learnt early on that are some fantastic female shoe nothing in life comes easy and you designers now. I feel that I too have must give 110%. To succeed you proved myself so far and hope to need a combination of knowledge, continue to do so. experience and financial knowhow and you mustn’t be afraid What would you change about the to get your hands dirty! I learnt world in order to make it a better and absorbed a great deal from place for your children to grow up in? watching him work. From an early I am passionate about education; age, in teens to my 20’s, I saw education opens your mind and how he worked extremely hard your eyes. I would make free and stayed true to his belief in education more available for all. Lucy Choi SS14 himself and in his workmanship. I think companies should provide He inspired me to aspire to follow my dreams and to ensure I proper work experience; it’s where you learn the most and can always deliver my promises. He gave me my values. decide on the right career for you. How do you begin the design process? I get my inspiration from people, places and things. It could be when I’m eating out, walking, people watching or travelling. My husband and I walk around London most weekends, exploring new areas, restaurants and boutiques. I always research the forthcoming trends and colours but really do most of the design when I’m in Hong Kong when I can completely immerse myself in the creative process. How important is having creative control of the brand to you? It’s very important to me as I am the brand. What is the Lucy Choi London USP? The collection is based on the principle that we provide luxurious, affordable shoes without compromising on design, craftsmanship and comfort, for women of all ages and for every occasion. As girls I think we like to play around with our image. Some days you might feel like embracing your inner rock chick, other days you might want something more elegant
Wimbledon, £225, LUCY CHOI
Iris, £198, LUCY CHOI
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Ever toyed with the idea of making childrens shoes? I would love to make children’s shoes as so many of my friends and customers have asked me to. I have just launched a new clutch bag collection and hope to offer children’s shoes in the future. Watch this space. Should one co-ordinate one’s handbag with one’s shoes or is it a fashion faux pas? We have a lot of customers asking for bags to complement our shoes for formal events and for the evening, which is why we have launched our own clutch bag range. It really depends on the individual and their sense of style - so I say go for it! I personally prefer to go for something complementary, rather than matchy matchy which is why all our clutch bags are designed to either co-ordinate with, or complement, our shoes.
Lucy Choi London is available online and in our Mayfair store.
Zinnia, £198, LUCY CHOI
www.wolfandbadger.com
INTERVIEW
LETTERS FROM POPS By Tessa Metcalfe
TESSA
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ME TCA LFE
orn and bred in Hackney, Jewellery designer Tessa Metcalfe spent her childhood observing the curious life of her neighbour, the street pigeon. With help from her delightfully willing father Hugh (or ‘Pops’), Tessa has amassed a collection of various birds that have met their end by natural means. Through a combination of taxidermy and casting prowess, Tessa produces a series of bejewelled pigeon feet, grasping precious stones of various size, shape and value. These birds of a fantasy underworld have, in Tessa’s conception, developed the needs and desires of man, and now spend their days scavenging for items of value. A quirky narrator and modern day Dionysus, Tessa’s pieces transport you to wherever their soft grey wings can carry you. Tessa Metcalfe is available online and in our Notting Hill store.
THE PIGEON DON’T MIND By Tessa Metcalfe
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very city has its own pigeons, they have different attitudes, builds, plumage. It’s obvious once you think about it. American pigeons are much bigger, of course. In Los Angeles they are huge, glossy, chilled out pigeons, basking in the sun all day. In New York they are sassy and street-wise. But the London ones are my favourite. They are the smaller variety, and they vary depending on which part of town you’re in. West, they look healthy, of course, they eat well, probably prefer sparkling water too. And the fancy white ones are more common. East pigeons have a bit more character, might have a limp or one wing that doesn’t quite tuck away neat. They look like they sit in the corner of the pub and have a good story to tell. South of the river their feathers are almost oily, they have a survival mentality and hang around in gangs. It’s each for their own in Central. The nifty quick pigeons that thrive often with a missing toe or two, a reminder of a lucky escape a couple years back. People walk straight past them, don’t even notice the feathered grey city dwellers that tidy up the crumbs we leave. They silently go about their business as we rush around below. Meeting up on a favourite ledge to catch the last rays of sun long after the streets below fell into shade. Warming their clawed feet atop the air conditioning outlet. Merrily sharing a crust off a cheese and pickle sarnie. Or meeting up in the park on the weekend to excitedly fly away when the children run into their group, just to convene a couple of feet away to play the game again mind. WHAT? There’s not much wildlife left in the city, but the pigeon don’t mind. They have all they need, they are content. They remind us that everything’s fine. Tomorrow is another day, and there is always a crumb left at the bottom of the bag.
Top: Tessa’s pieces in the studio, above and right: Tessa working on one of her pieces, below: her dog, Meatball, at the studio
Gold Pigeon Foot Pendant, £100, TESSA METCALFE
can tell it’s from him before I’ve opened it. Of course his hand writing is distinctive, all capitals, always in biro, but there’s more than that. The envelope is unusual, often fashioned from a page in newspaper elaborately folded to feature his article of choice. Or I can tell by his unconventional placement of the address, for no apparent reason. I have had the postman ring my doorbell to hand deliver these letters before, for no reason other than curiosity. The strange parcels have indistinguishable lumps and bumps and angry ‘DO NOT BEND’ in his trademark scrawl across the front. They often contain the feet of his latest roadkill find. He usually eats the rest so I don’t get much to taxidermy but the feet. I’ve had pheasant, red-legged partridge, a bunny or two, fox tails. Just the usual, run-of-the-mill correspondence really.
Topaz Claws of Engagement, £310, TESSA METCALFE
Single Claw Ring with Silver Nails, £55, TESSA METCALFE
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Ruby and Amethyst Claw, £115, TESSA METCALFE
Jacket, shirt and skirt: A-Line, bag: Liliyang, sunglasses: Heidi London, shoes: Angeline Lee, earrings: Hirotaka
PASSING
HAZE
There is something very romantic in spontaneity. Fling everything that glistens into a bag and go wherever the mood takes you. Styling by India Trusselle. Photographs by Lauren Michelle Pires.
Lace jumpsuit: Funlayo Deri, shoes: Angeline Lee, necklace: Miquella, earrings: CF Concept, rings: Myriam SOS, CF Concept and Yumeko Yamada Opposite page. Black jacket: Garderobe, necklace: Fraser Hamilton
White dress: Jessica Choay, shoes: Angeline Lee, clutch: Grace Atelier de Luxe, bangles: Tilayo, rings: Ruifier and CF Concept Red velvet jacket: Euphorik, white shirt: Garderobe, lapel pin: Ambra Fine Jewellery. Opposite page. Silk pyjamas and underwear: Beautiful Bottoms, necklace: Zeckie. Pink striped boxers: Hamilton & Hare. Photographer’s Assistant: Alec McLeish, stylist’s assistant: Jaime Jarvis, hair by Alessio Matta at Sassoon, make-up by Federico Gregorini using NARS Cosmetics, models: Sophia G at Select and Harry G at Next. With special thanks to The Savoy for its hospitality.
www.wolfandbadger.com
INTERVIEW
5 STEPS TO BEING A MODERN GENTLEMAN by Monsieur Fox
AKAPELLO
and the art of brotherhood
More than anything else, a gentleman is defined by his attitude and behaviour. Here’s what I think is most important…
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Confidence goes a long way… “Don’t confuse confidence with cockiness, be assured in the presentation of yourself. Look people in the eye and speak clearly. Act like you should be there and people will assume you should be. You have no idea how many times I’ve been somewhere that I wasn’t meant to be and ended up getting in and having a great time of it. Be kind to people, above and below you. Being mean spirited just shows insecurity, fear and smallness.”
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Be Focused… “Focus on what makes you happy, what makes you enjoy the time you have. Don’t try and do too many things at once, you end up not doing any of them very well.”
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Don’t Settle… “Don’t waste time with people who waste your time. Don’t accept something that’s not what you want. Don’t accept the rules as they are, question and break them to find out what your own rules are. Surround yourself with people who push you to become more like the person you want to be.”
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Say Less, Do More… “If there’s one thing I’ve learned it is to stop talking about myself. Ask questions, be present and intelligently interested. Forget your phone, checking your messages, etc. Be where you are and participate more fully with the people you’re with. You’ll soon realize how much you’ve been missing, plus when other people aren’t putting in their fair share, then refer to No.3 and seek out new people. You’ll find that you get more done because you spend less time talking about all the things you’re ‘gonna do’.”
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Life is Uncertain… “By its nature, life is uncertain and unpredictable. One of the biggest decisions you need to make is how much risk you’re comfortable with taking and then go after what you want with the full understanding it could all blow up in your face at any moment. Enjoy the ride.” Monsieur Fox is available online and in our Mayfair store.
The Francois £195, MONSIEUR FOX
Philip and Toby Albert-Corban
Brothers Philip and Toby Albert-Corban are the pivotal force behind menswear accessory brand AKAPELLO. With the slogan ‘Pax Vita Amare’ (Peace Life Love), these bright young things give us an insight into how they drive a developing business whilst maintaining such ambient ideologies.
You’ve spoken about timelessness in your designs. If you were offered eternal life, would you take it?
Philip: “Function. A product is rendered useless unless it functions correctly. A thing is essentially what it does and the trick in design is to work from the function backwards. When you do so, you find yourself answering the needs of the user in the best and most elegant way possible.”
Philip: “No. As the well-known saying goes ‘time is the most valuable commodity’. Knowing that we have an allotted time is what brings about creativity and drive in people. We live in a society obsessed with speed and getting things done quickly. The race to bring about an idea is what makes life so thrilling. Although, it would be interesting to witness how society changes over the millennia. There’s a Chinese proverb we quote to each other, ‘all good things take time’. What one creates in this life can be passed on to generations, and to have something appreciated across decades, or even centuries, is how we hope to see AKAPELLO. I think this is the true way that ‘eternity’ or ‘timelessness’ can be obtained.”
How important is being handmade in the UK to you? What do you gain from not outsourcing to factories beyond our borders?
You’re not only business partners but brothers. How do you make decisions without the ability to obtain an absolute majority?
Toby: “Our manufacturing process ensures that an item reaches a level of detail that can only be obtained by hand, such as: the riveted edges on our wallets, the hand stitched piping on our gloves, and the hand-rolled hems on our silks. We also have a deepseated appreciation for the fact that Great British manufacturing institutions were once the hub of world-renowned production.”
Toby: “This is what I like to call ‘The Art of Brotherhood’. We are 1 vote. Whether I make 60% and Philip makes 40%, in the end it is a complete, mature creation.”
What do you think is more important when designing a product - form or function?
Philip: “Neither Toby nor I studied fashion; we thought it would be more educational for us to understand the process behind how a product is made. We get to visit our manufacturers as regularly as we’d like and speak to them on a one-to-one basis. We value these one-to-one communications as they are essentially the key to our products being as made as well they are.”
Monogram Pocket Square £35, AKAPELLO
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What’s next for AKAPELLO? Toby: “Next for AKAPELLO is continuous progression until we are at a level of satisfaction. Knowing my brother and I, we will work until we reach this level, and then start something new the next day.” Interview: Fran Mullin Akapello is available online and in our Mayfair store.
Monogram Pocket Square £35, AKAPELLO
Monogram Pocket Square £35, AKAPELLO
www.wolfandbadger.com
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TRENDS
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Raf Simons SS14
Exaggerated prints are all the rage this season; wear them big and wear them aplenty
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1. All Seeing Eye, £55, Serge DeNimes 2. Golden Compass Tee, £50, Prints of Paradise 3. Yellow Monogram Bowtie, £65, Akapello 4. Cosmati Envelope iPad Cover Rubino, £200, Mark Giusti 5. Mosaic Tie Palatina, £75, Mark Giusti 6. Mosaic Pocket Square Gatsby, £65, Mark Giusti 7. Blue Monogram Bowtie, £65, Akapello 8. Glass Eye Tee, £50, Prints of Paradise 9. Peacock Neck Print Sweatshirt, £75, Serge DeNimes 10. Mosaic Bow Tie Romanza, £65, Mark Giusti
Xander Zhou SS14
GRAPHIC
Krisvanassche SS14
3
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What book changed your life? Run Baby Run by Nicky Cruz.
How do you define success? For me, success is achieving my own personal goals, many of which are focused around my business. How do you achieve a work/life balance? I’m finding a really good balance at the moment due to ‘Dry January’. I have partied quite a lot over the last few years, but now I find more joy in my work. I always say that in order to be a success, you have to not only love what you do but live it.
What qualifies you for your job? My passion for creativity, that has played a strong role throughout my life.
QUICK FIRE Q & A
OLIVER PROUDLOCK
FOUNDER OF SERGE DENIMES
What is the best lesson you’ve learnt so far? That success won’t come without hard graft. What do you wish you knew 10 years ago? There is no designated time for anything in your life. Time is not a restraint. What are you most jealous of in others? I feel jealously is bad for the soul. I try my hardest to not be envious of others.
Butterfly Neck Print, £55, SERGE DENIMES
Girl Smoking Rio, £55, SERGE DENIMES
What’s your least favourite word? Moist. What’s your most treasured possession? My glasses. I have had them since I was 13, and without them I can’t see!
What is home to you? My Mum’s house in the countryside.
Oliver Proudlock
What last made you laugh? I laugh every day. The Serge team in the office are always on top form. We work hard and play hard, which I feel is very important.
What’s next? The new Serge collection is doing really well, and from a design point of view I am now focusing on creating a whole complete range by A/W 2014. In terms of the brand, I plan to focus on wholesale this year, and push the brand to stores here in the UK as well as the rest of the world. End goal is for Serge DeNimes to be a recognised and respected fashion brand all around the world.
Serge DeNimes is available online and in our Notting Hill store.
SDN LDN Cross, £52, SERGE DENIMES
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White Flowers, £55, SERGE DENIMES
www.wolfandbadger.com
FEBRUARY QUARTER
DISCOVER NEW DESIGNERS Throughout the year we add a curated selection of the world’s best undiscovered luxury brands to our Wolf & Badger stores in Mayfair, Notting Hill and online. We are proud to showcase and sell on behalf of the designer, with each brand benefiting directly from the vast majority of sales proceeds. Be the first to discover and support our latest selection of fashion, jewellery and accessory designers. Find just some of our new brands below, with many more in-store and online. From far left: A-Line, Carmin, Azade, Docks Rio, Ella Valentine
A
A-LINE
E
A-Line was founded in September 2013 by designer Anne-
After a career in advertising, Anouk de Jonge decided to
Sophie Köhler. A-Line re-imagines the silhouette of the
follow her dream of launching her own brand and set up Ella
contemporary woman through clean, flattering cuts which
Valentine, in 2010. From the onset, Anouk has designed the
ELLA VALENTINE
complement a woman’s character and femininity. Anne-Sophie takes inspiration from her French and German roots, whilst embellishing her designs with a British sense of structure and tailoring. Set in the heart of Shoreditch A-line supports the local culture, partnering with East London photographers, models and creatives. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
AIKA ALEMI Kept awake at night with the design ideas of skirts and dresses, Aika Jaxybai formed the luxury womenswear brand Aika Alemi with her sister Nursula. With inspiration drawn from their own Kazakh heritage the garments are made from
C CARMIN
natural silks and cottons. The designer’s love of nature is
Having spent several years in the corporate world, French
reflected in the relaxed but elegant creations.
born and Chelsea based Albane Chevallier-Chantepie
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
decided to use her skills to develop her passion for design,
D
DEAR FRANCES
After studying at Central St Martin’s, womenswear designer Celine Der Torossian returned to her native Lebanon to start her brand, Azade. Inspired by underwater life, Celine designs her pieces like a ‘second skin’ to fit and flatter the female body. She uses simple and minimalistic cuts and then
from natural elements, soft light, fine lines and the romantic world. Growing up in Sydney, the designer then spent time in Milan and Paris before moving to London. The change and growth in these cities has influenced the collection, from the romantic essence of Paris, the urban edge of London and artisanal detail of Milan. All Dear Frances shoes are handmade in Italy, using the finest Italian leathers. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
handbags are timeless pieces crafted using only the finest
DOCKS RIO
quality materials. Each handbag is exclusively stitched by
Docks Rio is a luxury shoe brand, made in Brazil. Passionate
craftsmen. The handbags are made in a French workshop
about Rio de Janeiro, the designers are inspired by its vibrant
recognised for its remarkable know-how and the quality of
and colourful lifestyle. Docks Rio use an innovative product,
its work over many years.
Tilapia leather which is both sustainable and ethical for its
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
handcrafted shoes. The result is a totally authentic collection that reflects the charm of Brazilian style and delivers a
uses modern fabrics such as neoprene to create modern, geometrical shapes.
CHARLIE NOBLE
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
Stylish, fun and robust, Charlie Noble leather products are
in close collaboration with her Italian manufacturer, custom dyes are often made-to-order to achieve the perfect colour of leather. Ella Valentine’s ethos is design follows function. First and foremost a product needs to do its job, seamlessly, flawlessly and tastefully. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
The debut collection from Dear Frances takes inspiration
and in 2012, she created Carmin fashion label. Carmin luxury
AZADE
Ella Valentine pieces from her London design studio. Working
future of sustainable luxury. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
self-declared ‘British made fun’. Named after a particularly eccentric 19th century British merchant captain, Charlie Noble pieces are hand crafted in the UK from robust Scottish Highland leather and British weaved cotton. Assembled in London’s East End, the collections are, typically, traditional, charming and spirited. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
Left: Dear Frances, Right: Charlie Noble, Far right: Eskay W London
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ESKAY W LONDON Eskay W London was founded by London College of Fashion graduate SK Wong. Inspired by the quality and lines of vintage womenswear, the brand incorporates innovative design to produce garments for day-to-day wear, with a touch of couture magic. Each piece is hand tailored and beautifully finished to ensure the uniform quality and craftsmanship that this contemporary name is committed to. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
www.wolfandbadger.com
Clockwise from top left: Galet, Jock Fairweather, JohannaN, Lennon Courtney, Lukas Gschwandtner, Les Cinq, Luca Michele, La Carioca, I Love A Lassie, Ilene Steele
J
G
JOHANNAN JohannaN is a contemporary Swedish jewellery brand
GALET
that creates beautiful, unique and often unisex pieces.
Galet is an unmistakably playful and classic French footwear
The collections are inspired by a mix of traditional craft
brand for men. These two philosophies have been woven
history and northern Thailand. Johanna is also committed
together to create an original and iconic canvas loafer. At
to sustainability and the concept of slow fashion, meaning
the heart of their signature footwear are the hand-drawn
that her pieces are designed to be treasured for a long time.
imaginative patterns. These timeless designs ensure that
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
the loafers are truly versatile and guarantee everlasting amusement. Handmade in France, only the highest quality craftsmanship and materials are used.
JOCK FAIRWEATHER Jock has been designing shoes since he was six years old. Jock
Available online and in our Mayfair & Notting Hill stores.
I
graduated from the London College of Fashion’s Cordwainers
I Love a Lassie takes a bite out of nostalgia with a range of
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
course in 2010, where he established skills in craftsmanship and design. After refining his footwear skills with established footwear designer Kat Maconie and business, and design skills through work with a luxury brand, Swiss Luxury Beliefs, Jock Fairweather created his own brand. The Jock
LENNON COURTNEY Together Sonya and Brendan have 35 years experience in the fashion industry, widely regarded for their unique personal style, their collaboration is distinctive yet understated. Irish designed, it includes a full knitwear range produced by leading craft-makers and producers in Dublin. Their designs are informed by a shared philosophy that focuses on developing clothes and styles that are uniquely tailored to the shape of modern women. Collections and key pieces are based on an analysis of body shape and lifestyle needs each season. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
LES CINQ Number Five is the number of freedom, dynamism and change, and French accessories brand Les CINQ has taken inspiration from this when designing its collections of leather gloves and bags. The brand uses a combination of high quality Italian leather and distinctive French tailoring to create its elegant pieces and always keep an active, self confident woman in mind. Available online and in our Mayfair & Notting Hill stores.
Fairweather design style is targeted specifically at mature,
I LOVE A LASSIE
feminine and sophisticated women.
LUCA MICHELE
hand in an Edinburgh workshop and bears the traditional
L
LA CARIOCA
pieces a contemporary and sleek feel.
Edinburgh Castle hallmark.
Accessories designer Ange Marie has newly launched her
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
brand La Carioca, which reflects her French and Brazilian
contemporary jewellery inspired by life’s little treasures. Handcrafting precious tokens into necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings, each design is cast in solid silver. The jewellery is designed by Arlene Katorza, who has been selling her hand-made designs from jewellery boutiques for more than twenty years. I Love a Lassie jewellery is finished by
heritage. The inspiration for this collection was Alice in Wonderland and all the prints have been drawn and painted
ILENE STEELE JEWELLERY Ilene Steele Jewellery comprises a range of rings using a unique design method that positions the stones so that they are angled towards the wearer, in a setting that looks beautiful from all angles.. The Ilene Steele Jewellery ‘Wave’
with ink and watercolours. The scarves and are all printed exclusively in small quantities in Como, Italy and then hand rolled and finished in London. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
Luca Michele is a London fashion label founded by Italian born brothers. After graduating and both working for top fashion houses, they came together to create their eponymous brand. Their designs are sophisticated whilst also being distinctive. Much of their inspiration comes from a keen interest in the modern technological society which gives their
LUKAS GSCHWANDTNER Motivated
by
his
passion
for
craftsmanship,
Lukas
Gschwandtner has been designing and creating handbags since he was 12 years old. The designer is currently attending the Vienna Institute for Fashion in Schloss Hetzendorf, where he draws inspiration for the purism, simplicity and fine
Collection infuses themes of ocean waves and the intricacies
details that define his style. The unique, handmade bags are
of sea life by using cuttlefish in a casting process that creates
made from high quality leather and recycled, cleaned furs.
unique form and wave patterns on each ring band.
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
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www.wolfandbadger.com
LISA TRAVERSO
LES CINQ “I started Les CINQ as when I moved to Paris my life became rolling on two wheels. Discovering the city by bike is a feeling that can be compared with no other. Throughout the years I have observed women riding bikes and noted a common way of living shared between them. In the morning I wake up with a fresh carrot, apple and ginger juice, and then run around Paris with my bike for work. I constantly need adrenaline so board sports are my main drug. I recently got a dirt bike, on a nice terrain it’s a real rush! Cycling finds its roots in France. What is surprising is that bicycles were only commercialised in the early 1900s, that’s in the time of our great-great grandparents. It is crazy to think that its evolution has been over such a short period of time. Today we are rediscovering this heritage thanks to urban facilities like bike rental and bike paths, for which Paris was a first mover with Vélib’.
M
M.N ALOUSH M.N Aloush is a family business founded by the Abothnain family. The Abothnains have always had an eye for fashion and art of all types. In 2005 they embraced their love of drawing and sketching and applied it to their interest in fashion design. After years of development, the Abothnains formally named their brand: M.N Aloush. They have used their Middle Eastern background and culture to inspire their signature style. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
MAGPIE ACCESSORIES Established in 2008 by designer Kathryn Sillince, Magpie Accessories is a luxury accessories label with an ethical sensibility. Along with her team she handcrafts luxury leather handbags and accessories in her designer’s Yorkshire studio out of the finest locally sourced leathers. The brand has a strong ethical awareness and only works with tanners that share their ethical vision, while everything is sourced locally to reduce their carbon footprint. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
Les Cinq SS14
Our collections are designed for use in an urban context. Our gloves are not only functional, but are meant to be as much a part of the outfit as a bag or a piece of jewellery. The number 5 represents freedom, dynamism and change. Les CINQ represents women that share a certain philosophy. Freedom of choice is inherent to someone extremely independent in mind and soul. Choosing what we wear is taking pride in, and conscious of, our image. Dynamism is energy and has to do with travel and sports; these daily situations determine our daily wardrobe. Change because such women can adjust quickly to pretty much anything coming their way.”
N
NAYLA ARIDA
MERYN
Nayla Arida is a Beirut born born jewellery designer. She
After several years of working with leather, designer Beth
developed her skills and grew her passion for jewellery by
Sparrow launched Meryn, a men’s accessories brand in 2012.
working in various workshops in Lebanon before starting
Having always supported the ethos of ‘Made in England’,
her own brand. Her artisan creations form a colourful world
Meryn now work with a collection of small producers and
which has been inspired by nature and is expressed through
manufacturers across the country, who handcraft each Meryn
18ct gold pieces embellished with semi-precious and precious
product using only the very best quality Italian leathers and
stones.
solid brass fittings. Meryn brings together British design and
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
manufacture with quality materials in order to make products
Clockwise from top left: Nayla Arida, Magpie Accessories, Paola Balzano, Penmayne of London, M.N Aloush
P
PAOLA BALZANO Paola Balzano is a high-end womenswear label founded in 2012 by Italian/Taiwanese designer Paola Balzano. Made in Italy, traditional tailoring is given an Oriental twist, inspired by the designer’s Asian origins. Architectural shapes
that will develop character and grow in beauty as they age. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
Les Cinq is available online and in our Mayfair and Notting Hill stores.
NAZANIN ROSE MATIN
and sinuous silhouettes, combined with the softness and
Drawing inspiration from her rich Persian heritage, Nazanin
grace of draping, characterise Paola Balzano’s feminine
combines her diverse background with her passion for the
and sophisticated style. With great attention to detail and
natural world to create a collection of beautifully printed
finishing she uses high quality fabrics and manufacturing to
scarves.
create luxurious clothes with timeless elegance.
Nazanin grew up within a joyful and natural
landscape, where her father was a passionate horse rider
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
and her mother a painter and these are reflected in her prints. Each scarf is carefully printed, crafted and hand rolled in Italy. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
PENMAYNE OF LONDON Penmayne of London was launched in 2013 by Claire Howeson, a solicitor, who left the law to follow her passion for all things hats. Creating beautiful fur felt fedoras and trilbies, Penmayne believes a great hat strikes the perfect balance between style and wearability. Quality sits at the very core of the brand. All hats are made in Britain from 100% rabbit fur felt, shaped by hat blockers in Luton, the heart of the hat making industry since the 17th Century, and hand-finished at the Penmayne studio, Battersea, London. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
Les Cinq SS14
Left: Nazanin Rose Matin, Above: Meryn
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www.wolfandbadger.com
Clockwise from top left: Plum of London, Seven Boot London, Wagner Arte, Robertson Jessel, Zashadu, SheBee, Rich Jewellery
R
RICH JEWELLERY The combination of contemporary design and unparalleled ancient craftsmanship form the emphasis of this fine jewellery
P
brand. Each item is defined by its hand chosen and pavé set diamonds to create a distinctive piece with a magnificent
S
finish. Taking inspiration from eternal iconic designs and
SEVEN BOOT LANE
symbols, white gold teams black and white diamonds across
Seven Boot Lane was established in 2012. An antidote to the
an array of rings, pendant necklaces and earrings to form the
modern consumer’s throwaway mentality, Seven Boot Lane
luxurious RICH brand.
creates beautiful boots that stand the test of time. The boots
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
are crafted using beautiful Spanish natural hand-finished
PLUM OF LONDON
leather and the finest quality hardware. Its distinctive design
Plum of London is an ethically sourced, British made
handwriting provides a refreshing take on today’s favourite
knitwear brand. The company has a strong ethos and strives
boot profiles, from bikers to flats, cowboys to Chelseas.
to be sustainable and eco-friendly. Its contemporary designs
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
are the result of collaborations with up and coming knitwear designers. All pieces are made from the highest quality grade Royal Alpaca, which is renowned for being both luxurious and practical. Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
ROBERTSON JESSEL
SHEBEE Ann Spence learned how to make necklaces and jewellery
For more than fifty years Robertson Jessel & Co has stood
as a child. While working as a writer and portrait painter,
for the finest craftsmanship. Even in these days of modern
she continued to create pieces, only to discover increasing
technology every piece is still handmade in the time honoured
demand for her jewellery. She founded SheBee in 2011. Ann
POMEGRANATE
traditional way. All of its pieces are made to stand the test
grew up in the metropolitan areas of New York, Chicago,
Pomegranate is a husband-and-wife jewellery brand based in
of time and become your constant companion for many
London and Rome, surrounded and inspired by the high
London. They draw inspiration from a mutual love of India
years. All products are hand crafted from only the very finest
art of these cities. Her true love is folk art, and the SheBee
and Indian jewellery, and work hard to create a muted East
vegetable tanned leathers and individually made by skilled
collection is a meeting point: where folk meets chic.
meets West aesthetic. They incorporate age-old techniques:
artisans.
Available online and in our Mayfair & Notting Hill stores.
kundan setting, jadau set beads and mosaics of diamond
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
W
WAGNER ARTE
slices, re-inventing them into contemporary, wearable forms. Available online and in our Mayfair & Notting Hill stores.
Wagner Arte is a family business based in Romania that specialises in jewellery and porcelain. The starting point
PRITCH LONDON
of the brand was a desire to tell small stories on porcelain. This has now developed into a handmade jewellery range
Pritch London is a womenswear brand which designs pieces
that combines silver and gold with precious gemstones to
that are first and foremost wearable, but also eye-catching
create delicate earrings, imposing necklaces and spectacular
and distinctive. They create dramatic statement pieces for
bracelets.
a fashion forward and modern women. Pritch is committed
Available online and in our Notting Hill store.
SOUL BY DENNIK LI
Z
Soul by Dennik Li believes in the value of simple things and
Zashadu is a Nigerian based accessories brand. The brand
that simplicity and minimalism are the success of elegant
works with local materials including vegetable dyed leather,
style. It is inspired by modern art, contemporary lifestyle,
chrome dyed leather and rough cut precious stones. All bags
architecture and people. As a result the creative team is a
are made at its workspace in Lagos by a team that uses
group of professionals specialising in fashion design, graphic
traditional techniques passed down over generations. Their
design, photography and fine arts. The concept of the brand
mission is to explore the tension between quiet elegance and
is a minimalistic look, high quality, natural fabrics and
unabashed glamour, avoiding the use of superfluous fittings
affordable prices.
and fixtures in order to give precedence to the leathers.
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
Available online and in our Mayfair store.
to delivering the highest level of quality and as a result collections are primarily handmade and produced in Italy. Available online and in our Mayfair store.
Left: Pritch London, Above: Pomegranate, Above right: Soul by Dennik Li
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ZASHADU
DISCOVER NEW DESIGNERS
O V E R 14 0 I N D E P E N D E NT B R A N D S FA S H I O N, J E W E L L E RY & H O M E W A R E S Visit u s in Ma yf a ir, N ot t in g H ill & Online w w w. w o l f a nd ba d g e r. c o m WOLF & BADGER MAYFAIR 32 Dover Street, London, W1S 4NE | 020 3627 3191 Monday - Wednesday 11:00am - 6:30pm, Thursday - Saturday 11:00am - 7:00pm, Sunday 12:00pm - 5:00pm
WOLF & BADGER NOTTING HILL 46 Ledbury Road, London, W11 2AB | 020 7229 5698 Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 6:30pm, Sunday 11:00am - 5:00pm