Wool & Yarn Global 2016 by wool2yarnglobal

Speciality Fibres

BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2016-2017

Acknowledgements American Sheep Association Australian Wool Testing Authority British Wool Marketing Board Campaign for Wool Canadian Wool Co-Operative Cape Wools South Africa China Wool Textile Association Federacion Lanera Argentina International Wool Textile Organisation Mohair South Africa Nanjing Wool Market New Zealand Wool Testing Authority SGS Wool Testing Authority Wool Testing Authority Europe Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa Art & Design Ely Torres , Polyprint Pty Ltd Melbourne Australia Published by International Trade Publ. (ITP) PO Box 11, Caulfield South Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia info@wool2yarnglobal.com www.wool2yarnglobal.com Editor Victor Chesky Editorial Coordinator Robyn Segal Contributing writers Jessica Lewis Rebekah Malka Michael Chereshsky ITP publications Wool2Yarn Global & Wool2Yarn China www.woolnews.net & www.woolbuy.net Front Cover Dashing Tweeds UK

Welcome to the 2016 issue of wool2yarn global magazine This issue is full of articles about wool treatment and performance yarn, as well as opinion pieces from industry leaders, reports on main wool producing countries, the latest in textile machinery, and more. But we pay particular attention to Performance Yarn as it gains popularity in the sportswear sector. Wool is the ideal fibre for such innovative applications, meeting the expectations of wearers looking for washability, easy drying, water repellence, moisture management, elasticity and resistance to odour, as well as cooling or heat retaining properties. Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retail consumers are demanding greater environmental accountability and traceability, as well as functionality and performance from their garments - wool is the ideal fibre and the retail consumer is slowly but surely getting the message! And as the consumer comes to value and appreciate the environmental credentials and natural attributes that wool garments can offer, these consumers also demand accountability in animal welfare, and therefore, the mulesing issue will not go away - all industry players must continue to work together to address this issue. There is a lot to read in wool2yarn global so please keep this magazine handy and browse through it at your leisure over the coming months. We wish you happy reading and thank the many contributors that have helped us to provide you with such a diverse read. Victor Chesky EDITOR wool2yarnglobal 2016

RedSun Wool

wool2yarnglobal 2016

A SUCCESS STORY SPINNING MORE THAN 50 YEARS

Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles Co Ltd 7 Renmin Road, Miaoqiao Town Zhangjiagang, Jiangsu China 215615 Tel. + 86 512 58461988 Email qhh@lianhongtex.com

120

In this issue Industry News

Viewpoint

12 Global wool outlook

34 Michael Modiano

16 Stucken Group a setback overcome

17 Non-mulesed wool certification from SA

18 Upfront with China 20 Tecnomeccanica in China

21 Measuring instrument of choice in Peru

22 Chargeurs Wool efficient business model

24 Lempriere takes off in Bulgaria

26 IWTO - inspiring excellence along the wool supply chain

28 New design in burrbeaters benefit top makers

32 The Campaign for Wool 10

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the affordable fibre

Wool & Yarn Treatment 36 Fiber lubrication in wool processing

38 Shrinkproof treatments that works

40 New Light at the end of the tunnel

42 Easy care with H2Dry 44 Textile auxiliaries step onto environment stage

46 Plasma wool treatment

48 Chlorine free treatment from Schoeller

50 Bulmer and Lumb dyeing and colour matching

Innovation in Yarn 52 Wool makes a splash in performance apparel

55 Worsted spinning productivity gains

56 Zegna Baruffa - a brand behind the brands

Mohair 72 Mohair SA launches International Design Competition

73 The new Mohair headquarters

74 Masters in Mohair

Logistics 153

Lempriere Global offers door-to-door logistics

154

KES Distri solves logistic headache

60 Peruvian Alpaca yarns shine at Pitti Filati 2016

63 Spinning a new yarn with MSSA

64 Yarn for high performance activewear

66 Indian yarn manufacturer extends its international reach

68 Pashing Woollen - yarn sales grow in 2016

70 Lianhong Textiles extends its reach

Wool in Bedding 168

Eco-friendly wool increased demand from bedding manufacturers

168 124

178

72 190

Textile Machinery

Country Reports

176

PROSINO increases spinning productivity

76 USA

105 UK

148 GERMANY

178

Latest technology from NSC, Tecnomeccanica, and Sant Andrea Novara

American Wool Council unveils new logo

New grading system working for buyers

Offering the best in European wool

78 ARGENTINA

Profile on leading UK wool exporters

156 RUSSIA

184

186

Eco PulsarS attracts attention from spinners Worsted yarn industry focus on Zinser

Wool Testing 190

196

Latest in news from AWTA, NZWTA, WTAE, WTBSA and SGS OFDA - accuracy in fibre measurement

Profile on leading wool and top exporters

84 FRANCE Segard Masurel 170 yrs of service

86 AUSTRALIA Integrity Scheme gains strength Profile on leading Australian wool exporters

122 CHILE Punta tops’ - from Chile with love

158 ITALY

124 NEW ZEALAND

Italian Association elects new president and vice president

Profile on leading NZ wool exporters

140 SOUTH AFRICA Interview with G. de Kock

152 CANADA

Clean-green approach to quality wool

Canadian wool finds new markets

Profile on leading SA wool exporters

100 CHINA Profile on China’s leading top exporters

Russian wool thrown into the mix

164 SPAIN Spanish Wool grows in popularity

166 TURKEY Quality Turkish wool from Akel Tekstil

173 URUGUAY Profiles on leading Uruguayan wool & top exporters wool2yarnglobal 2016

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statistically speaking

he world wool industry produces around 2.1 million tons of wool per year and takes care of more than 1 billion sheep. The value of raw wool exports including greasy, scoured and carbonised is around USD 2.5 billion per year (Source: Woolmark). Slow economic growth around the world will create challenges for the wool industry. Of particular concern is the slowdown in China, the affect of Brexit on the UK, and the slow economic growth in Europe. According to the IWTO Market Intelligence Committee report presented at IWTO Congress in April the wool industry can expect lower world wool production, a reduction in superfine wool, an increase in demand for raw wool, and overall higher prices, particularly for Merino cardings in the next couple of years. Wool outperformed all other fibres in monetary terms in 2015/16. Apparel wool increased in price by 10% and Interiors wool by 5%. This compares with

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Cashmere that was down 17%, cotton down 5%, and polyester staple down 8%. World wool production from main producing countries dropped by 1.5% in 2016 to 1,148mkg clean. 2017 is forecast only marginally higher. Wool textile industry stock levels are pulling back from previous higher levels. It is forecast that by the end of 2016 early stage processing, spinning, and weaving will be below normal levels. Knitting, garment making, interior textiles, are at normal or just below normal levels.

Country Snapshots CHINA China processes an average of 260,000 tons of wool per year. Blankets and carpets currently account for 55% of woollen exports from China. Although China continues to dominate imports of greasy, scoured and wool top from all major wool producing countries its imports have decreased by 9% from Australia, 6% New Zealand, 9% from

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INDUSTRY

Uruguay, and 18% from Argentina. South Africa has increased its exports to China by 10%. The Chinese textile industry has been challenged on a number of fronts including slower economic growth domestically. Labour shortages and wage increases have resulted in an increase in production cost and the competition from such countries as Vietnam, Bangladesh and India are compounding these challenges. The cost of compliance in strict environmental laws is being absorbed by major processors but some smaller companies will struggle to stay competitive. It is estimated that waste water treatment alone could account for as much as 25% to the cost of production. Foreign owned enterprises must comply with even stricter environmental laws than local enterprises. Companies in China are now being rated according to a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;green

indexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; linked to tax incentives and penalties.

market depending on the better performer at any given time.

An over capacity in early wool processing is forcing some smaller companies, and those less financially viable, to close down. In the last couple of years a number of high profile topmakers have closed their doors including Reward-Ning Bo, Xinle, and most recently Australia Harvest. These manufacturers each had an output of approximately 10,000 tons of tops per year, which represents an import of 45,000 tons of greasy per year for each company. These and other closures could shrink early wool processing in China by as much as 10%.

According to Li-Gang Liu, Citibank Chief Economist in China the rise of the middle class will continue to drive consumption, contributing to more than 60% of GDP growth and will continue to rise well beyond 2020. Wool currently accounts for 3.5% of the total textile output. The domestic market consumes over 70% of wool products.

Nevertheless, China remains the biggest importer and processor of wool and is the biggest manufacturer of textile products in the world. The industry in China has managed to switch from the export to domestic

World Wool Production in mkg clean Apparel Wool Countries Australia Argentina South Africa Uruguay USA

2016f 258 28 30 19 7.3

2017f 256 29 30 20 7.4

% Change -0.6% +0.7% +1.6% +3.8% +1.9%

World Wool Production in mkg clean Interior Textile Wool Countries China New Zealand India UK Mongolia

2016f 177 112 39 22 18

2017f 177 112 39 22 21

f - forecast Source: IWTO Market Intelligence Committee 14

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% Change +0.0% +0.1% +0.5% 0.0% +11.1%

AUSTRALIA The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee predicts that shorn wool production in 2016/17 will be at 325 mkg greasy, the same level as its revised estimate for the 2015/16 season. While sheep numbers are likely to be lower this season than in 2015/16, an improvement in average wool cut per head is expected as a result of far better seasonal conditions, thereby keeping wool production unchanged. A key influence on wool production in 2016/17 will be lower opening sheep numbers. The very dry conditions in the western half of Victoria, southeast South Australia, Tasmania, parts of New South Wales and throughout Queensland for much of 2015/16 resulted in a continued turn-off of sheep and lambs across much of Australia. While those decisions will mean fewer sheep shorn in these areas in 2016/17, the improved seasonal conditions are expected to see producers retaining more sheep this season. Australian Bureau of Agriculture and Resource Economics and Sciences (ABARES) predict that wool prices will rise by 7% in 2016/17. Some

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economists predict that prices may increase by as much as 13%. Sheep numbers in 2015/16 were 72 million, approximately 50% of these are merino. Wool production was 322 million kgs greasy (approximately 225 million kgs clean weight). Australian Wool production is down by 7% in 2016. The forecast for 2017 is 256 mkg clean. A positive outlook for lambs’ meat will see sheep numbers gradually increase to around 77 million by 2020/21. This increase in sheep numbers will lift supply but as a result will reduce prices. China takes around 70% of the Australian wool clip, followed by India, Italy, and the Czech Republic. 80% of Australian wool clip is exported in greasy form. 8% is carbonised, and 4% scoured. China buys 80% of 19 micron and finer greasy wool, followed by Italy at 9%, Czech Republic 4%, and India 3.6%. China buys 49% of 20 - 23 micron types, followed by India at 14.5 %, South Korea 13.6%, and Czech Republic 5%. China buys 76% of 24 - 27 micron types, India 6%, Czech Republic 5%, followed by South Korea at just above 3%. China buys 84% of 28 micron and coarser, Czech Republic 10%, and India 3.5%. NEW ZEALAND New Zealand wool export industry found 2016 challenging, mostly due to currency fluctuations and the tightening of wool availability. Sheep numbers decreased 3% in 2015/16. Stronger wool also found it difficult to compete with synthetic fibre, particularly in carpets. It is expected that sheep numbers will increase slightly in 2016/17 to 28.25 million

head. Purchasing from China slowed in Q1 2016 as Chinese manufacturers switched finer wools to address the large uniform tenders announced by their government. New Zealand exported 118,969 clean tonnes of wool to June 2016. China was the biggest buyer taking 46,611 tonnes of greasy wool and 83,079 tons of scoured wool. The second biggest buyer was Italy taking 9,108 clean tonnes. This was closely followed by the UK taking just under 9,000 clean tonnes, a slight improvement over the previous year. India purchased 6,340 clean tonnes. SOUTH AFRICA China continues to be the main destination for South African wool clip. In 2015/16 season it took over 32 million kilos representing 63.9% of the total clip. 31 million kilos were exported in greasy form. The Czech Republic imported just under 7 million kilos representing 14.7%. Italy just over 3 million kilos, representing 12%, 1.7 million of this was tops, 1.6 million was greasy. India, the 4th largest importer of South African wool imports 1.870 million kilos of which 1.8 million was greasy, 4% of the total clip. URUGUAY Total wool in Uruguay for the period July 2015-June 2016 was 26 mkg greasy. Uruguay imports between 15 and 20 mkg of greasy wool from countries including Brazil, Perú, and others for its very well developed topmaking industry. Its total wool exports were 43.7 mkg greasy, of which 27 mkg was wool tops, 10.8 mkg was scoured and 14 mkg was greasy (all in greasy basis).

ARGENTINA Production estimation for 2015/16 season was revised downwards to 42,000 tons greasy. A similar production figure is expected for 2016/17. 30% of Argentine wool is exported as greasy, 8% scoured, and 60% as tops, yarns and by-products. China was the biggest purchaser of Argentine wool in 2015/16 importing 3812,6 clean tons of greasy wool, 693 scoured tons, and 1567,1 tons in tops. Germany was the second biggest destination importing 164,5 clean tons of greasy wool, 270,3 tons of scoured wool, and 4130,3 tons of tops. Italy was the third largest purchaser from Argentina and mostly purchased tops 2935,0 tons. UK Wool production in UK in 2016/17 is expected to remain the same as in 2015/16 at 22 million kg clean. Wool prices have gone backwards for UK wool after the high of 2015/16 decreasing 12% in pounds and 18% in US dollars. How Brexit will affect the wool industry in the UK is anybody’s guess but the lower pound will no doubt assist exporters. USA It is forecast that wool production in the USA will increase by 1.5% in 2017. Although most wool is consumed in domestic production major export destinations are China and India. There are more than 80,000 sheep farms and ranches in the USA producing approximately 7.3 million kg of clean wool clean. Texas is the largest state for sheep farming, followed by California, and Colorado. Source: IWTO, Cape Wools, NZBS, AWPC, FLA, R. Cardellino

wool2yarnglobal 2016

INDUSTRY

a setback overcome with a leap forward

fter more than 150 years of trading the Stucken Group based in Port Elizabeth South Africa and in Bremen, Germany, has experienced its fair share of adversity, success, challenges and opportunities. The fire that destroyed their wool and mohair combing facility and required the relocation of their speciality spinning mill, MSSA, in April last year presented the Group with an opportunity to once again demonstrate its resourcefulness and commitment to their objective of being a globally competitive vertically integrated multinatural fibre business. Today, 15 months on, the Group has re-positioned itself to be able to continue to give their customers what it regards as a key to success – peace of 16

wool2yarnglobal 2016

mind. The new state-of-the-art combing mill and modern spinning mill located in over 7000sqm of new and renovated buildings at Gubb & Inggs in Uitenhage, South Africa is testament to the Group’s commitment to produce and supply products of the highest quality standards that allow their customers and partners to operate with confidence, knowing that one of the key elements of their own success – quality raw material supply – is in good hands. Immediately after the extent of the damage had been determined in April 2015, an experienced and skilled technical team set about the process of rebuilding what was lost. Not only was their mandate to replace the lost capacity but also to ensure that the most modern equipment, production techniques and technical experts

were brought to bear on a project that would last for at least 15 months. Whilst a carefully selected construction team began the physical replacement of buildings and other infrastructure a small team of experts began the process of considering, testing and finally selecting the equipment that would ultimately constitute the new machine park. After a rigorous process, the group partnered with NSC Fibre to Yarn to supply specially modified carding, gilling, combing and finishing equipment for the new combing

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mill whilst Tecnomeccanica Biellese was entrusted with supplying the scoured blending, transportation, by-product and waste management systems that are essential to an efficient production unit. A customdesigned climate control system for both combing and spinning mills was also installed.The new combing mill is expected to be in full production by mid-August 2016 with the spinning mill expected to be at full capacity a few weeks later.

ape Wools recent initiative to provide customers with proof of non-mulesed wool has been available now for about a year. ‘Buyers can verify the authenticity of the Non-Mulesed declarations they receive with their consignments of wool from South Africa by simply logging onto our website’, says Louis de Beer CEO at Cape Wools in Port Elizabeth.

CE A N RT O IFI NCA M TE UL IN ES ITI E AT D IVE

‘Providing reliable certification is in the interest of our exporters. This new non-mulesed wool certification is further proof of the veracity of the wool delivered. The information is freely available to all along the supply chain and right up to a product at its retail destination’, says Mr De Beer. ‘Our sound animal husbandry practices as outlined in our Code of Best Practice also demonstrate the level of care taken by our farmers’.

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With the Stucken Group’s focussed involvement in mohair combined with this exceptional new investment at origin the South African mohair industry is in an excellent position to take advantage of the ongoing trend favouring the use of natural, sustainable and traceable natural fibres.

Non-mulesed wool certification from Cape Wools South Africa

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The Group is insistent however that its people are the key to its success. With the 6th generation of family members now firmly at the helm, an expert production team and a passionate and committed staff, the pursuit of improvement, innovation and progress are what drives the Group’s competitiveness.

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‘by logging onto www.capewools.co.za, the customer can key in the unique reference number and verify that the detailed information contained in his received copy is the same as in the electronic version. If the system electronically rejects the query then your document may have been tampered with’ wool2yarnglobal 2016

INDUSTRY

upfront with China by Victor Chesky

hina continues to be a hub for the global textile industry. It is the largest importer of wool, and in 2015/16 it purchased 80% of the Australian wool clip, 60% from South Africa, 50% from New Zealand, and 27% from Argentina. It is the largest wool processor, largest manufacturer of woollen products, and the second biggest consumer of textiles worldwide. But, is China starting to run out of steam? Some say that China has been relatively quiet and this is true with respect to coarser wool types. Its slower growth, austerity measures in government spending, a tightening up in business credit controls, and the anticorruption campaign has all had an impact. ‘The wool textile industry has not been immune to these current challenges’, says Robert Wang China manager AWTA. There is an over capacity in early wool processing and the most recent casualty is the third biggest top maker in China, shrinking industry capacity by at least 5-7%. This and other closures confirm that a re-alignment will need to occur for the industry to be competitive and to continue to prop up future wool production. ‘Many in the industry will remember that woollen garments

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made from double sided fabric dominated the Chinese domestic market for more than 3 years resulting in a significant short supply of carding wool. In 2015, its popularity started to fade and a stockpile has become a burden for the domestic industry’, he says. Notwithstanding all of this, the Chinese economy with a 6.5% annual growth rate is still far more formidable than anywhere in this world’, says Robert Wang. ‘China will remain the biggest player in both wool production and wool consumption for a long time to come’. ‘Given the current early wool processing capacity in China and the tight supply of raw materials, wool prices should remain high and climb even higher in the new financial year. Last season the Australian wool market saw the indicator well above Aust 1300 cents, something not seen for almost 30 years! Needless to say the main purchasing power continues to comes from China’, Robert Wang comments. A new stimulus was presented to the industry in the second half of 2016 in the form of large orders for corporate uniforms in the government sector, tendered by railway, army, navy and air force departments. ‘This is a positive and much needed development for the wool industry in China’, says Robert Wang. ‘None should underestimate the significance of this move. The combined purchase of uniforms in China could easily see tens of millions of sets of clothing and this has been a main reason for increased demand in Australian merino fleece wool and its gradual and steady price increase’. The jump in demand for long wool, compounded by an historical low supply of wool around the world will see prices across the board firm and even increase in the future.

INDUSTRY

textile machines take off in china

ecnomeccanica Group has just installed a full set of automatic fibre preparation machinery and a card feeding system for a woollen spinning plant at Erdos International Trade Ltd in China. Erdos is a major cashmere spinning company in China and is the world largest exporter of cashmere products in the world, including cashmere yarn and garments. As a leader in cashmere spinning Erdos knew that to continue to retain its place as a leader in cashmere spinning and garment manufacture it requires the latest in technology and we are pleased that they chose us and our sister company Sant Andrea to provide this technology’, says Mario Ploner of the Tecnomeccanica Group. Sant Andrea has been involved in installing the RF5E vertical finishers for other Chinese customers. Tecnomeccanica Biellese has also completed an installation of blending and preparation at Goyo plant in Mongolia, that specialises in wool and cashmere spinning and knitting products. ‘Today manufacturers recognise that to use the latest textile machinery is a commercial necessity. Greater competition

wool2yarnglobal 2016

Mario Ploner Director Sales Tecnomeccanica Biellese with new multi-head drawing frame manufactured by sister company Sant’ Andrea Textile Machines in Novara

and environmental concerns has pushed many companies to manufacture better quality products. ‘At Tecnomeccanica and Sant’Andrea we provide manufacturers with the latest technology options to achieve this and we have also been active in upgrading textile machinery for plants in Mexico, South America, Belarus, and Turkmenistan’, says Mr Ploner. ‘Our installation at Erdos included a completely automatic card feeding process. The equipment generally consists of two storage bins of any requested size and one bin emptier, which removes the blend by cutting it across the stack from the bottom to the top’, he says. ‘Where possible, the bin emptier can be coupled to a feedsystem, which performs the function of conveying the fibres directly into the hopper-feeder via a moving conveyor. This operation ensures optimum fibre opening and blending, with the result of a superior final end product.’ The blend can be fed into the storage bins

SALT via a special system of distribution in order to limit to a minimum the number of ducts needed for pneumatic conveyance, which normally involve cleaning problems for every batch of fibre material. ‘For combing mills where many cards are producing the same lot we have realised a special distribution system with a moving conveyor belt able to distribute wool to groups of 2 up to 6 cards’, he says. “The automatic roller feeders with Silos”mod. AS are designed to store fibres and to automatically feed Hopper Feeders, OE spinning lines or to deliver the blend on to the feed sections of different machines. There is a wide range of models available dependent on the filling height which varies from 250 to 3,000 mm and in different working widths to suit individual requirements. The AST model is equipped with a fibre opening system below the delivery rollers to provide optimum opening of the fibres which are fed into the hopper feeder. These silos are generally used in woollen spinning plants and are recommended to achieve homogenous blends. For more information please contact Mario Ploner at mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

INDUSTRY

measuring instrument of choice from italy to peru

n advantage to OFDA measuring equipment is that it is very portable and can be used in any farm conditions anywhere in the world. Today there are more than 380 of these units in use in 30 countries worldwide. ‘Our testing equipment is internationally recognised and is IWTO-62 accredited’, says Mark Brims, inventor of OFDA technology and CEO of BSC Electronics that manufactures this technology in Australia. Mr Brims recently visited Peru at the invitation of the Peruvian government to assess how OFDA technology can assist Peruvian alpaca growers to produce better quality fibre. Mr Brims introduced alpaca growers to the benefits of using this OFDA technology. ‘It was an easy product to promote’, says Mr Brims, ‘There are clear advantages in speed and accuracy to using OFDA technology’, he says. ‘From Peru to Italy, OFDA should be the instrument of choice’. OFDA2000 and OFDA4000 is a rapid accurate instrument for measuring fibre diameter and length by digital video

Testing Alpaca fibre and sorting it into finer fleece enables Peruvian industry to develop higher value products

image analysis. ‘The Alpaca fibre industry in Peru has great potential to develop some amazing products’, he says. ‘I feel that today the Peruvian alpaca growers are at the same point where the Australian wool grower was some 20 years ago. The industry in Peru must separate the finer fleece from the coarser to be able to develop innovative products in particular for next-to-skin fabric.’

technology is ideally suited to the alpaca growing industry in Peru. ‘It is very portable and can be used in any farming condition and the Peruvian government has already shown interest in making this technology available to alpaca growers. It is a supporting step to better production. If the alpaca industry can sort its fleece and have the right equipment to measure its fineness everyone will be a winner. And any country that wants to enhance the quality of its fibre, whether man-made or natural fibre, will benefit from using OFDA testing instruments’, he notes.

The introduction of testing and comfort measuring technology benefited the Australian wool industry tremendously when it was introduced and this enabled it to better identify and classify its wool, therefore enhancing its ability to produce the best wool fibre in the world. According to Mr Brims OFDA wool2yarnglobal 2016

INDUSTRY

efficient business model results in value-added wool

ithout a doubt, 2015 was a successful year of transition and consolidation for Chargeurs. It has moved to the next level, lifted by faster improvement in its manufacturing and financial performance and by the impetus from a new reference shareholder representing a source of stability and sustained commitment over the long term. In 2015 Chargeurs welcomed new Chairman and CEO, Mr. Michaël Fribourg. Mr Fribourg could see the strong potential for growth at Chargeurs in its manufacturing operations and value creation.

Michaël Fribourg

Federico Paullier

wool2yarnglobal 2016

He began his career in the cabinet office of Renaud Dutreil, Minister for Trade, Craft Industry and Small Businesses and Enterprises (2005-2006), before joining the Inspection Générale des Finances, where he led several advisory and support projects for the French administration and for the Office of the French President. In 2011, he became Special Advisor to the Minister for Industry, Energy and the Digital Economy, serving as co-chief of staff. He joined the ARJIL investment bank as partner in 2013 before creating Colombus Holding with leading investors. Michaël Fribourg founded Columbus Holding with the support of leading French long-term institutional investors – CM-CIC Investissement, EFFI-INVEST II, BNP Paribas

Développement and Harwanne (Covéa Group) – and several French family offices. Born in 1982, Mr. Fribourg is a graduate of EcoleNormaleSupérieure, Institutd’EtudesPolitiques de Paris (Sciences Po) and EcoleNationaled’Administration. He also holds post-graduate degrees in philosophy and economics, as well as a master’s degree in modern humanities. In 2009, he became a member of the Inspection Générale des Finances and is currently a Senior Lecturer at Sciences Po Paris. ‘At Chargeurs Wool we continue to perform in a highly competitive market’, says Federico Paullier, Managing Director Chargeurs Wool. ‘After an exceptional year in 2014, we experienced a more normal year in 2015, while improving our manufacturing performance compared with 2013 when the new business model for Chargeurs Wool was introduced’. ‘Our focus continues to be on providing a high value-added product in our premium wool. We offer customers wool from every producing region, including New Zealand, Australia, Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa and North America. Chargeurs Wool operates through firm contracts, without any speculative trading or open positions’, he says. ‘We continue to specialize in top making and designing wool blends that meet the needs of spinning mills around the world’. In 2015 Chargeurs Wool’s operating profit margin was ¤2.5 million based on revenue of ¤93.7 million. The main region contributing to this profit was Europe with 47% followed by the Americas on 35% and Asia at 18%. 41% of company employees are based in Europe, 41% in the Americas, and 18% in Asia.

INDUSTRY

Hinterveld at premier vision

Chargeurs Wool supplies wool top to manufactures of yarn for technical textiles used in certain leading edge industries such as the premium casual wear and sportswear industries and clientele in high end brand manufacturing. ‘Over the past five years, our wool division has focused on quality, research and inspection laboratories’, says Mr. Paullier. ‘We have also enhanced our model for a sustainable cycle of production and distribution. We continue to deepen our involvement in local communities and regional eco systems’. These developments, which are lifting the division’s business performance, are helping to meet the enduring demand for highquality wool applications in the fast-growing premium fashion wear and luxury sportswear segments. The business leverages its expertise in determining quality, traceability and fiber stability to select the finest greasy wool tops from producers worldwide. ‘We are very aware of customer concern for social responsibility and environmental issues and we ensure compliance in these areas as do our partner combing mills. Employee health and safety legislation and animal welfare are very important to us’, comments Federico Paullier. Our integrated value chain, producers, combing mills and garment-markers, is unique in the global marketplace. That is the key to our profitability.’

interveld (Pty) Ltd is the Stucken Group’s weaving division, producing mohair blankets and accessories, both for stock supported as well as private label services. However, another exciting development for Hinterveld is the supply of beautiful fabric (by the yard) to high-end garment manufacturers, in a style named “Cape Tweed”. Although tweed originated in early 19th-century Scotland, and is marked by its distinct appearance in terms of color and use of wool textures, Hinterveld has found a way to blend an African heritage with traditionalEuropean trends to produce its own distinct style of tweed. “If traditional tweed employs primarily wool, Hinterveld “Cape Tweed” is an expressive combination of classic design, color and texture, using a slightly wider combination of natural fibers,” says Daniel Stucken. “Our tweed is becoming increasingly popular with fashion houses worldwide. It is this distinctive combination of natural fibers (with a special love for mohair) that gives our mill a personality and style. Hinterveld exhibited at Premier Vision (PV) in September 2016 (Paris). We are a relatively young company and our capabilities are still a secret to some markets, and this exhibition opportunity has enabled us to meet many interested buyers with whom we hope to build long term partnerships with.” fabric@hinterveld.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

INDUSTRY

Lempriere opens top making plant in Bulgaria Lempriere has taken another step forward as it opens its own top making facility in Europe. The decision to establish a new wool top plant in Sliven Bulgaria may have initially caused some raised eyebrows but a gap in the supply chain for tops in Europe, the centre of knitting and weaving, will be well filled by the operation of this plant, according to Eric Durand Lempriere Top Export Manager. I asked him why Bulgaria and why now? By Victor Chesky

‘Being located in close proximity to our customers was a big consideration for us’, says Eric Durand who has been in Bulgaria overseeing the plant setup. ‘At Lempriere we decided that it was the right time for us to open our own plant in Europe. We saw it as an opportunity to control the quality of our tops and provide better and faster service to our customers in that region. being close to our customers has been a main consideration. Our focus is on European customers, providing stock service and quick delivery of European manufactured tops.’ ‘Increasing costs and longer delivery time of tops from China, and low manufacturing costs in Eastern Europe made Bulgaria a logical choice’, says Eric Durand. ‘European spinners increasingly prefer tops that are made in Europe. Bulgaria is the newest member of the EU, only joining in 2007 and has the lowest manufacturing and labour costsin the EU. ‘But of course, being a part of the EU we must comply with EU energy, and labour laws and regulations. We have installed a brand new effluent treatment facility to comply with European environmental regulations and we are now working toward providing environmental certification to customers. ‘Achieving a fully operational plant has taken longer than expected’, comments Mr Durand. ‘This has been due in the most part to bureaucracy inherited from communist times, 24

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Eric Durand

that still lingers at the local government level. ‘But by the time this interview is printed we expect to operate at full capacity’, he say. The plant will process 18.5 - 30 micron wool with a capacity of 20 tons per day processing wool from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and North America. It is expected that production will be 75-80% for Lempriere requirements and 20-25% on commission, servicing the knitting and weaving sectors.The plant is located 100 kms from Burgas port facilities for good transport logistics. ‘In 2002 Lempriere embarked on a global sourcing strategy and opened offices in Argentina, USA and South Africa, and followed this up with its acquisition of New Zealand’s largest wool processor and exporter NZWSI in 2011. Opening the plant in Bulgaria was a natural progression’, says Eric Durand. ‘I believe we are demonstrating our commitment to the wool industry with this further investment in Europe’. Lempriere expects its investment in Bulgaria to provide 100 - 120 new jobs that will increase to more than 150 as production gathers traction. Eric Durand can be contacted at Eric.Durand@lempriere.bg

IWTO: inspiring excellence along the wool supply chain As this year’s edition of wool2yarn global goes to press, I approach my two-month anniversary as Secretary General of IWTO. It’s been an interesting sixty days. By Dalena White, IWTO Secretary General

y first meeting in the chair was with the World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) in Paris and as my childhood dream was to become a veterinary scientist, this was particularly fitting for me. The organisation is steadfast in supporting, researching and constantly updating the true standards that keep our animals safe and free from harm and this rings true with my own beliefs. IWTO and OIE have a Memorandum of Understanding in place and the IWTO Guidelines for Wool Sheep Welfare are based on the OIE standards for Animal Welfare. The updated Wool Sheep Welfare Guidelines are scheduled for release in November 2016 (look for them on the IWTO website). Just prior to my one-month point, the British public went to the polls and in an historic referendum voted to leave the EU. The implications of this, for one of our strongest woolconsuming markets, is too soon to tell, although added pressure on retailing wool was not a result we were looking for.

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The better news is that wool is very much present at the trade shows, with creative uses of texture and treatments establishing wool as an all-season fibre. Wool can also be seen in almost all outdoor collections, and modern, trendy “athleisure” brands are including wool in their collections. It is likely, even, that wool will soon be seen in running and fitness sportswear. Developments like these make it exciting to be part of the wool world today.

Confirming wool’s environmental and “wellthness” credentials As a trade association, the role of IWTO is to inspire the industry towards excellence and build on the heritage of this wonderful institution, honouring the many pioneers that spent a lifetime to develop the systems and practices we still benefit from today. One key source of inspiration is the scientific research on wool that’s beginning to emerge from

IWTO’s Working Groups. We began to develop the science behind the sustainability of wool in 2012. Now the results of our research projects are coming out, and 2016-17 will see the publication of numerous studies and discussion papers which fill gaps in the data for Life Cycle Assessment of wool, provide technical guidance for LCA practitioners, and raise general awareness about the complexity of LCA. These are all-important messages wool retailers are asking for, to use as a competitive edge over their competitors. We intend to supply them fast and effectively. We look forward to the publication of the book chapter on wool recycling and reuse, to be published in Springer’s Natural Fibres: Advances in Science and Technology Towards Industrial Applications, and an AWI-funded LCA study on resource use and greenhouse gas emissions, to be published in the Journal of Cleaner Production. As I have personally encountered much better sleep patterns since switching to wool

bedding and sleepwear seven years ago, I am excited by the findings of our study on the effects of textiles on sleep, published in the Journal of Nature and Science of Sleep. The study finds that the amount of time is takes to get to sleep is significantly shortened when sleeping in wool, with trends of increased total sleep time and sleep efficiency compared to cotton sleepwear. Elsewhere, we further the understanding of woolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s effect on the skin, with two independent studies confirming the effectiveness of Merino wool base layers in treating skin conditions, and a third paper debunking the myth of the so-called wool allergy. With this work in place, we can feel confident in the claims we make about wool and begin to channel the news along the supply chain from sheep to shop.

our industry. The Biella Wool Round Table, taking place 28-

Building a strong wool workforce

on Planet Wool throughout 2017.

At IWTO we also strive to inspire the next generation of wool ambassadors, as it is the only sustainable future for

Visit iwto.org for more information, including links to the

29 November 2016, focuses on exactly this. One of IWTOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strategic themes, education and skills development will empower students and young professionals to make careers in the wool textile industry, and build a strong wool workforce. Through an exchange of ideas between education, industry, growers and retail, we will identify opportunities in the wool textile market, both currently and in the near future, and determine areas where skills shortages should be addressed. The outcome will lead to a universal platform for leading textile training institutions, for the benefit of students and industry. Stay tuned for further developments

research outcomes cited above.

wool2yarnglobal 2016

INDUSTRY

new design in burr-beaters benefits top makers

opmakers can benefit from using a new design in burr beaters’, says Mario Ploner of Tecnomeccanica Biellese. The new for woollen cards have been in use by topmakers around the world for the last two years. ‘For some time now woollen mills around the world have found that replacing their Burr Beaters has become more difficult and more costly’, says Mr Ploner. ‘We have developed a new design that lasts longer and is more competitively priced than other models currently available on the market. ‘Our new design is a special cylinder that turns quickly and can be adjusted very closely to the morrel. It fits all existing machinery and is usually tailor made for each machine’. ‘Our Burr Beaters can be constructed for THIBEAU CARDS CA 6 AND CA7 and also for OCTIR and for woollen cards. They are produced in a working width of 2500mm or 3500mm and are dynamically balanced to run up to 1600 rpm.

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Flayers are hardened in a special combination of nickel, chrome and steel to ensure a long life and a perfect result. Wide cylinder has a conical shape to copy the flections in order to achieve a straight surface in the working point against the morrel. We can also supply the spare burrs collector box constructed in sizes according to the existing machine’. The new design has a variable number of knives (from 30 to 46) in the cylinder. They are perfectly straight and hardened in order to remove all vegetable matter from the wool. Each woollen card has 3 or 4 Burr Beaters (Chasseurs) and these must be removed every 6 months. Each cylinder works for 6 months in a clockwise direction and can then be utilized for a further period in the opposite direction. After this double usage grinding will only reduce to a maximum of 1mm on its radius (2 mm in diameter). After 4 grindings the diameter becomes too small and the complete

cylinder must be replaced. All cylinders can be fitted into existing machinery. Tecnomeccanica Biellese can supply cylinders only, as separate parts or they can install the complete bearing. ‘The average life span is a maximum 5 years so if you consider that a top maker working with n.8 cards like the Thibeau CA6 is using a minimum of 24 cylinders every 5 years, this is excellent value for money’, he comments. For further technical information please contact Mario Ploner at: mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

Certificate no.: 2008C0540044 Tested for APEOs and Formaldehyde

INDUSTRY

resurgence in textile and apparel manufacturing in the USA

extile and apparel manufacturing in the USA is enjoying a resurgence. Even companies based in India and China are investing in US facilities, according to a report in the latest issue of Textile Outlook International from the global business information company Textiles Intelligence. This process of “reshoring” may have been triggered partly by concerns over factory safety and by growing concerns over the safety of chemicals and a lack of traceability. Equally, retailers and brands are being taken to task over environmental sustainability. All of these are easier to monitor and control in US factories than they are in far-off developing countries. At the same time, developments in technology—notably automation and robotics—are enabling US factories to cut their costs while proximity to the market provides producers in the USA with a significant competitive advantage over companies based in distant countries in terms of quick response and market knowledge. Reshoring would appear to have the support of the public. Almost eight out of ten US consumers say they would rather buy an American-made product than an imported one. And over 60% of them would be willing to pay 10% more for it. However, the resurgence in manufacturing in the USA has been fairly modest and followed substantial losses between 2005 and 2008.

Indeed, the US apparel industry still supplies less than 3% of the US domestic market for apparel in volume terms. Also, US apparel imports continue to be dominated by low cost Asian suppliers, reflecting the fact that cost minimisation continues to play a vital role in sourcing decisions. One of the biggest obstacles to reshoring is a desperate shortage of skilled operatives. Moreover, there are not enough people who can do the training. Most of these people retired long ago without being replaced by younger entrants. There is also a lack of skilled technicians who are able to maintain sewing machinery. To fill the gap, migrants are playing an important role in the reshoring of textiles and clothing. In general, migrants have a younger age profile than that of the US population as a whole and, if motivated properly, they are likely to work harder and more energetically than their older counterparts. Besides, economic migrants are, by definition, motivated by the potential for increasing their standard of living and are therefore willing to put in the hours and effort required to achieve this. Above all, many migrants bring with them the sewing skills they acquired in their countries of origin—particularly those migrants who originate in Mexico or other Latin American countries. However, the availability of migrants as a human resource is likely to be limited by public opinion. The subject of migration raises temperatures in most host countries, and there is evidence that the tide is very much against migration on a significant scale.

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INDUSTRY

superfine merino good for skin health

linical studies have shown the skin condition of young children suffering from eczema can be dramatically improved by wearing superfine Merino wool. Separate clinical trials conducted by the Murdoch Childrens Research Institute and by the Queensland institute of Dermatology are challenging and breaking the significant myths that wool is not good to wear for those with Atopic Dermatitis (AD) and wool is a possible source of allergy. These trials of the skin health benefits of superfine wool base layer garments for AD sufferers have been under way for more than four years and have generated robust data supporting wool as therapeutic in the treatment of AD. Three scientific papers associated with wool and skin health are being submitted for publication in high impact, peer-reviewed dermatological journals and are expected to be published by year’s end. A summary of findings are contained in a one page review. Program Manager of Fibre Advocacy and Eco Credentials with Australian Wool Innovation, Angus Ireland said the trials have been conducted using light weight, 150 gram per square metre superfine Merino wool garments with a micron range finer than 18.6 microns. “More than 65 adults and children have participated in the studies, across a range of climates and the garments have not only been tolerated by the AD sufferers but have helped improve the condition. This was achieved despite virtually all participants from the Brisbane-based study, with its hot and humid environment, reporting they couldn’t wear wool prior to the trial, yet none of them withdrew because of wool intolerance.” The first paper entitled ‘Determining the

Effects of Superfine Sheep wool in Infantile Eczema’ was presented at dermatology conferences in Australia, Brazil and France. This study of children less than three years old employed a cross-over design where they wore superfine Merino wool for six weeks before changing over to cotton, and vice versa. The researchers found when children switched over to wool after wearing cotton, they showed a significant decrease in eczema severity whereas those who switched over to cotton after wearing wool showed worsening of eczema. The study’s lead author Associate Professor John Su from Monash University and Murdoch Childrens Research Institute says the results “challenge our current practice” when advising about the suitability of wool for children with atopic dermatitis. “When comparing with cotton, there are inherent differences in fibre properties, [Merino] wool’s greater ability to transfer moisture vapour and heat than other major apparel fibres enable it to maintain a more stable microclimate between the skin and garment,” said Associate Professor John Su. Rheannan Williams, mother of one of the children in the study, said “Within two to three weeks of wearing wool it was unbelievable...her skin is clear...I would 100% recommend it, it’s amazing”. The second paper, which specifically addresses the myth of wool allergy, will be submitted for publication next followed by the third paper “An assessment of superfine Merino wool as therapeutic in the treatment of Atopic Dermatitis”. Source: AWI wool2yarnglobal 2016

the campaign for wool emphasises environmental excellence by: R. Peter Ackroyd MBE DL

Left to right: Nicholas Coleridge, Chairman Campaign for Wool, R. Peter Ackroyd MBE DL and HRH The Prince of Wales

aunched just over six years ago, the Campaign for Wool is seeking to place greater emphasis on wool’s environmental credentials as economic uncertainties once again loom large over some of the world’s leading per capita wool consuming countries. In the build up to the June 23rd Brexit referendum vote, Marks and Spencer, the UK’s largest corporate user of wool across a large micron range, reported a -9% drop in sales of fashion and household goods from March to May. Burberry, citing China as chief culprit saw already suffering sales drop by a further -3% for the same period. Brexit, continued attacks on conspicuous luxury consumption by Chinese officialdom, unease about the upcoming US election in November and, as if the world had forgotten, the inherent tales of woe coming out of Euroland as more banks in Italy all but fail EU stress tests. In the very early days of the Campaign, HRH The Prince of Wales placed great emphasis on the need to help farmers across the Commonwealth facing an existential crisis as prices of wool plummeted and many were leaving the wool trade in favour of either

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meat production or converting grazing land for the more lucrative business of cropping. Some six years on, the Campaign has had a significant effect on wool prices encouraging many growers to remain in the business. Sheep numbers are increasing in some countries. The natural, renewable and biodegradable story of wool is very much in tune with the current global emphasis on environmental excellence, particularly the growing disquiet surrounding fast fashion and its disposal in landfill. In response to HRH The Prince of Wales’ concerns, representatives from the wool supply chain will meet at Dumfries House in Ayrshire, Scotland on September 9th to review the role of wool in interiors and fashion and to formulate the Dumfries House Declaration, a further commitment to environmental excellence by key global players, including Sir Paul Smith, the new CEO of Marks and Spencer, Steve Rowe, Kim McKendrick of Godfrey Hurst Carpets in New Zealand and a strong Italian delegation led by Paolo Zegna. The UK carpet industry joined forces in April of this year in the first ever all wool floor covering event

held at Chelsea Football Ground in west London. Twenty seven firms showcased the environmental advantages of wool to an audience of carpet retailers mainly from London and the south of England. Supported and organised by the British Wool Marketing Board, the event hosted the Campaign for Wool’s Wool Carpet and Rug Awards ceremony for excellence in wool which saw several key companies in the sector honoured for their achievements in the industry. “The carpet sector showcased some of the very best products available at this new event, showing the true diversity of wool flooring. We also launched WoolRetailer.com to the retail sector - which includes an accredited education programme that will connect quality retailers to consumers. It is a new concept in bringing together our key audiences through one platform and it is proving very successful.” Bridgette Kelly of BWMB said.

The seventh annual Campaign for Wool Wool Week will be held from the 10th of October in London. Much of the activity will centre around a novel idea of creating a Wool Bed and Breakfast in east London. BnBs as they are known, are currently very fashionable in Europe, some charging very high prices for a luxury experience in what is really a private home. The property will be decorated, furnished and stocked with wool products, some rather unusual, again stressing the environmental advantages of wool for lifestyle. The International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) will use the opportunity to illustrate the environmental and ‘green’ credentials of wool through the publication of several fact sheets produced by the Product Wellness and Sustainable Practices Working Groups of the IWTO. Selected journalists will be invited for an overnight stay in the Wool BnB during Wool Week.

Schoeller - always one step ahead

….the sustainable chlorine-free wool treatment

Total Easy Care

wool2yarnglobal 2016

VIEWPOINT

the affordable fibre

few months ago, a client and I were discussing the yarn market. He complained that business was tough and that his sales volumes had suffered over the last year. I was surprised by his comment and pointed out that he was buying more wool tops from us than the year before, did that mean we were supplying a greater share of his annual needs? The answer he replied, was that the average percentage of wool in his wool/synthetic yarns had approximately doubled over the last four years. This was music to my ears. Not only had wool prices increased during this period, but the consumer was ready to buy a product with a greater wool content. The client and I both agreed the most logical explanation was that the consumer, at long last, was beginning to appreciate wool’s intrinsic qualities and happy to pay more for this wonderful and versatile fibre. This story led me to conclude that our industry’s marketing efforts of the last ten to twelve years are paying dividends, and that the consumer’s imagination and appetite for natural fibres has been whetted. Prior to this marketing push nobody at dinner parties would ever ask me to explain this new type of wool called ‘Merino’, or this ‘new’ machine-washable wool. Those asking are often amazed by the centuries-old story of the Merino which travelled from Spain to Northern Europe and from there to the Cape and on to Australia and New Zealand, and are very surprised to 34

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by: Michael Modiano

‘

...wool garment might cost slightly more to purchase, but in various ways it is much better value than other fibres.

’

learn that machine-washable wool has existed for decades. It’s wonderful that wool shows up on the consumer’s radar more clearly and favourably than it used to, that a younger generation used to wearing synthetic and cotton casuals (but not too many suits), have discovered the beauty and practicality of wool via merino base layers and other sportswear. However, those of us with a more in-depth knowledge of wool understand that it outperforms other fibres in so many ways, some of which have yet to be fully appreciated by the consumer. Now that we have started to dispel the myth that all wool is itchy and inconvenient to wash I encourage our industry to embark on the next chapter of wool promotion and debunk other mistaken notions. One of the most common of these is that although desirable, wool is expensive. When confronted by this claim I am quick to point out that a wool garment might cost slightly more to purchase, but in various ways it is

much better value than other fibres. On a basic level, garments made from wool tend to last longer, particularly outer wear such as jackets and coats. This is partly due to wool’s protein structure which makes it elastic and resilient, but also because it is a longstaple fibre whose yarns are therefore stronger. If one divides the cost of a garment by the number of hours it can be worn and still look good, then wool is positively cheap. Of course, in a world of fast-fashion where there is pressure to rotate one’s wardrobe very regularly this does not help, but there are many who prefer to spend less time shopping and positively seek clothes that will last and remain elegant after years of use. These segments tend to be slanted towards those in middle age or retirement, especially males. This presents much opportunity to target female and younger consumers with this message. In this connection it is fair to say that today’s youth are more conscious than any previous generation of the need to be kind to our planet, therefore the concept that certain clothes are more of an investment than a cost should be a valid selling point. Perhaps the story of my client who is now able to blend more wool into his yarns is evidence that this change in perception has already gained traction. I urge the wool-textile industry to pass on the message that wool is good value, and an example of how less consumption can result in greater utility, enjoyment and satisfaction.

THE NATURAL CHOICE

FIVE GENERATIONS OF HIGH QUALITY TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS FROM RAW FIBRE TO FINISHED PRODUCTS Shanghai Stephenson Trading Company is the exclusive distributor in China for the UK based Stephenson Group Limited range of textile auxiliaries. Backed by state of the art production facilities in the UK, we are ‘The Natural Choice’ to meet specific customer requirements for the Chinese markets. Shanghai Stephenson Trading Company is committed to supplying the highest quality products for all aspects of wool and wool blend textile processing.

WOOL TOPMAKING

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Secol HYD – ester based lubricant to optimises fibre length and yields Disperstat IP New – pure antistat. Disperstat KA – pure antistat

Spintek DRI - combined antistatic lubricant for either wet or dry spinning on the woollen and semi-worsted systems

SHRINK RESIST AND SOFT LUSTRE WOOL PRODUCTION A complete range of wetting agents, Shrink Resist Polymers, Softeners, lubricants and antistatic additives for all aspects of production

WORSTED SPINNING Duroslip and Disperstat range of re-combing and spinning lubricants, and antistatic agents to provide optimum processing conditions

WEAVING Durowax range of warp lubricants for wool and also linen yarns, designed to replace the full sizing process. Allows processors to significantly reduce chemical and energy costs

FABRIC AND KNITWEAR FINISHING A full range of biodegradable scouring and milling agents complemented by a range of high quality softeners

QI WEIMIN - 1954977513@qq.com - WWW.STEPHENSONGROUP.CO.UK

wool2yarnglobal 2016

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

the importance of fiber lubrication during wool textile processing The Stephenson Group is a world leader in speciality chemicals, and has been supplying textile processing aids for over 20 years from its research and manufacturing facility in Leeds, North of England.

he main focus of its textile division is intopmaking, spinning, and machine washing sectors for wool and wool blend processing on the worsted, semi-worsted and woollen spinning systems. ‘Lubricantsperform a very important role during textile processing, and in most situations, it is impossible to make a wool top, or tospin the yarn to any level of quality and consistency,without suitable and specifically designed lubricants’, comments Mr Richardson. In the wool topmaking process, the different fibers move quickly on different surfaces and it is necessary to apply the lubricant at the earliest fiber blending stage to avoid fiber damage and to maximize the fiber length and yields. Because of the surface structure of the fiber, coupled with the various types and speeds of modern textile processing

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between the contact surfaces. In many cases the advantages of a good lubricant can be observed visually from the process stages in terms of:

Robin Richardson, General Manager Textile Division Stephenson Group Limited with lubricants ready for delivery

machinery, large amounts of lubricant are needed and this brings more challenges to the lubricant manufacturers. ‘In order to maximize yields, ensure high and consistent quality, and reduce waste, it is important to select the most suitable lubricant for the different types of fiber and different processes’, he says. ‘The lubricant not only improves the processing performance of the blended fiber, but also improves the final yarn quality which brings benefits to the subsequent processing stages.’ The main function of any kinds of lubricant is to reduce the dynamic and hydrodynamicforces

• improved running performance • reduced static charge generation • reduced fly waste • reduced roller lapping • reduced atmospheric dust • reduced roller deposits • cleaner mill conditions • less machine downtime • improved productivity The modern highly efficient lubricants may generate a small static charge, and therefore it is often necessary to incorporate an antistatic additive into the lubricant to overcome this static charge, or to apply the anti-static agent separately to improve its anti-static function. This is particularly important when controlled Relative Humidity (RH) conditions are not available and when the RH

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

is particularly low, such as in cold and dry winter conditions, or very dry hot summer months. The many years of technical expertise from the chemists at the Stephenson Group Ltd have resulted in the development of some of the leading lubricants and antistatic additives in the wool processing industry. As can be seen from the chart, it is also very important to select the correct chemicals as antistatic agent. These must be compatible with, and enhance the properties of the lubricant and to ensure they do not have any negative downstream properties. Synthetic fibers such as polyester, have a much lower regain than wool and when blended with wool can often result in high static generation and high levels of fly waste (which can result in roller lapping and machine downtime). Wool can also have static problems in the dry condition during the high speed processes. ‘Our specially designed lubricants with anti-static properties can ensure the fibers are processed smoothly and efficiently, to maximize fiber yield and ensure high quality and consistent yarns. We have developed a range of different lubricants and antistatic processing aids for different fibers and processes, including worsted, semi-worsted and woollen processes, as well as full range of products for the continuous Machine Wash process for wool’. Stephenson Group products include Secol HYDtopmaking lubricant for the carding and combing process. The careful balance of selected lubricant and emulsifiers allows for the controlled reduction of friction between the fiber and metal so as to reduceto a minimum,fiber breakage during the carding and combing process. As a result of this function, we have seen noticeable increases in the fiber length, and reductions in fiber breakage and noil.

the current high speeds of most modern topmaking companies. Dipserstat IP New and Disperstat KA products from the Stephenson Group Limited can be used as anti-static agents for most fiber microns, and Disperstat IP New in particularly, is extremely effective when processing in conditions of low relative humidity and when used at low application levels. Duroslip SDF New is a recombing and spinning lubricant mainly used for processing dyed tops of wool and wool polyester blends. Whilst protecting the fibers, the controlled levels of lubricant and cohesive properties allow the fibres to move across one another in a controlled manner to produce a high quality recombed top and spun yarn. This results in a smoother yarn and with reduced thick and thin spots and with a lower coefficient of variation. Many customers have commented on the reduced level of fly and roller build up and with reduced roller lapping.If additional static protection is required, Disperstat IP New can also be used. The Stephenson Group Limited has ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 accreditation and all products supplied are fully supported through the REACH process. ‘The global textile industry is currently putting increasing pressure on manufacturers to be more aware of the environment. To ensure these producers meet the requirements of industry standards such as the Bluesign system, we are fully supportive of our customers’, concludes Mr Richardson. For further information on the full range of processing aids, please contact: Mr Robin Richardson robin.richardson@stephensongroup.co.uk For China - Madam Qi Weimin, Tel 18917336997 E 1954977513@QQ.com

Whilst Secol HYD is an excellent lubricant, in many cases it is still necessary to include an additional antistat such as Disperstat IP New or Disperstat KA, particularly when processing in conditions of low relative humidity and when processing at wool2yarnglobal 2016

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

shrinkproof treatments that works

quality machine washable product- across all microns. Our process out performs the new technologies in terms of machine washable and tumble dry performance’.

Albert Chippendale (left) and his son Lewis Chippendale at SPB plant in Bradford

he demand for shrink proofing treatments continue to grow A number of different shrink proof treatments have been launched onto the market in the last couple of years. Most promote enhanced environmental credentials, but according to Albert Chippendale of Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB) in the UK some are just old technology repackaged with new names and untested promises. ‘Some still need to be proven to really work effectively when treating large quantities and using diverse wool types’, says Mr Chippendale. ‘We are continuously working on new processes and assessing new technologies. However we believe that at present we offer the best option for a

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Albert Chippendale has been in the industry for more than 30 years and he has seen treatment trends come and go. He is yet to be convinced that his treatment method can be superseded but comments that ‘we always look to the future and we continue to trial new treatments. We have developed our own process to render the wool, machine washable without the use of chlorine. However, even chlorine treated wool from our plant contains less chlorine than drinking water!’, he points out. ‘Our treatment out-performs other shrink proofing techniques’. ‘Our treatment method continues to be the most frequently used’, he says. ‘And as a shrink proofing process it is still the most effective treatment method for woollen garments and bedding products. Wool parameters can change from sheep to sheep and from season to season and our process is proven to consistently work well with all these changing characteristics. We use our technology because it outperforms any other shrink proofing technique.’ SPB treatment complies with The Total Easy Care (TEC) process and is Woolmark Accredited. Demand by consumers for garments to look new and maintain their shape after repeated washing and drying is growing. ‘The wool we

SHRINK RESISTANT WOOL PROCESSING process for sweaters meet specifications that enable each finished garment to go through a washing cycle some 50 times without any shrinkage occurring and are suitable for tumble drying ’, says Mr Chippendale. SPB plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards. It is registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK and can offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification. SPB also processes wool for a number of bedding product manufacturers that carry the Green Label. (refer SPB article in Bedding Report). ‘Our customers prefer to process their wool with us here in Europe because of our knowledge and experience with European and UK wools’, he says. SPB is cost competitive and provides a quick turn-around service. SPB processing facility is not aligned or linked to any wool company, is privately owned and totally independent. It processes quantities both big and small, from 500kg to 100 tonnes. Traditional markets for SPB products in knitwear include the UK, Western Europe, Scandinavia and North America. ‘We treat wool for hand knitting as well as for high performance apparel such as ski wear. Hand knitting has enjoyed something of a resurgence in America and this is an area of wool treatment that we are expert in, shrink proofing and getting rid of the itch factor’. ‘As a commission scourer we look after our clients consignment from start to finish’, says Mr Chippendale. ‘Our clients receive the right wool handle, right colour, and good washability properties according to their specific requirements.’ For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality.processors@btopenworld.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

New Light at the end of the tunnel for superwash When it comes to superwash treatment for wool tops, you don’t get bigger than XINGUANG. In Chinese this means Newlight, and this is the name known to companies outside of China for this innovative superwash treatment company.

Chris Qu and son Tao Qu inspecting Superwash tops

makes your tops, our customers still prefer to Superwash their tops with us’.

stablished in 2000 this company has a sound reputation in China and internationally for its quality treatments including Basolan, Soft Lustre, and Shrinkproof. It processes on Fleissner and Andar machines over five lines, with the capacity to treat 15,000 tons of tops each year. ‘Today we are the largest Superwash wool top treatment plant in the world’, says Chris Qu, chairman at Newlight XINGUANG Wool Treatment Co. ‘50% of our treated wool is for the domestic market and 50% for export. It doesn’t matter who

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In 2005 Newlight was accredited Woolmark certification in Easy Total Care. The relationship with the Woolmark Company and has continued ever since, and today Newlight operates a product development centre for new innovative products tested by Australian Wool Innovation. In 2015 it gained Oeko-tex 100 environmental protection accreditation. ‘Our customers from around the world choose us for their top treatment needs because we don’t do anything else. We do not make tops, we do not comb wool, we do not finish, our sole focus is wool treatment, and

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

this specialisation gives us added expertise and focus,’ says Chris Qu. Recently Newlight developed new chlorine free Basolan and Superwash wool top treatments. ‘We were the first mill in China to introduce a non chlorine Superwash top treatment. No chlorine is used during this process and therefore there is no harmful ecological effects’, he says. The washable standards specified by the Woolmark Co include wool shrink tests and machine washable standards are met after this treatment. The product also develops excellent anti-pilling properties after this treatment and is of great interest to customers in Europe. According to Mr Qu it is not just the machines that make treatment at Newlight better, it is the combination of its entire system including management, and engineers working with their people on the floor. ‘We treat each order individually, and each customer personally. The untrained eye or the inexperienced hand may not see or feel the difference in top treatment but the fabric manufacturer will’, says Mr Qu ‘He will know if the top has been treated by us or top has been treated elsewhere’, says Mr Qu. ‘Our brand name is associated with quality and a large number of clients inside and outside China - they know us and specifically nominate us for their wool treatment needs’.

irritation, and sweat odour the company has developed anti-bacterial and freshness superwash wool tops. A further innovation developed by Newlight includes permanent soft treatment for wool tops. ‘After conventional Superwash wool tops are dyed, they can lose softness. Our product still achieves good spinning performance and smoothness after dyeing. In addition, our true black pre-treatment is very popular with garment manufacturers. Our special chlorination treatment process achieves a darker, brighter colour’. For more information about wool top treatments at Newlight / XINGUANG please contact Tao - qutaoi@hotmail.com - Or visit the company website at www.xinguangwooltop.com

‘Our customers also rely on our research and development achievements over recent years. We have been working closely with Australian Wool Innovation and in the last couple of years we have developed some exciting new treatments for woollen products’, he says. Some of these products include treatments that provide characteristics in smoothness, coolness, and moisture absorption suitable for underwear, t-shirts, and outdoor clothing. For customers looking for hygienic qualities such as the prevention of infection and skin wool2yarnglobal 2016

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

easy care with H2Dry natural elasticity and garments show their aesthetic qualities to full effect even with intensive use or frequent washing. The special H2Dry treatment lets the skin breathe, so wearing a knitted polo or shirt against the skin is even more comfortable, because the surface of the body is kept dry. And garments dry surprisingly quickly. Moisture management tests are conducted at the Politecnico di Torino laboratories using the international Moisture Management Test method (AATCC 195-2009). Tests demonstrates capacity of Re-Active and K-Wool to transfer body moisture to the outside of a garment.

he importance fabric and garment manufacturers are placing on the use of high performance yarns has increased dramatically in the last couple of years. Such yarns are increasingly being used for travel wear and in the sport wear industry with a particular focus on activewear and next-to-skin wear. ‘Our H2Dry wool treatment is a technical treatment that gives pure wool yarns improved characteristics in breathability, elasticity, and uncrushability’, says Dr. Luciano Bandi managing director for sales and marketing at Zegna Baruffa. ‘Italian luxury brands are increasingly introducing such performance garments into their collections.’ Zegna Baruffa manufactures woollen, worsted, and fancy yarns of natural fibres and noble blends for knitwear, weaving and hand-knitting and supplies yarn to high end fashion labels in Italy and around the world. After treatment ReActive 17.5 micron pure wool yarn – superfine, and K-Wool 19.5 micron pure wool yarn – extra fine fibres maintain their

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‘Whether the patterns are classic or more elaborate, knitwear delivers outstanding comfort and wearability superior to that of ordinary pure wool garments. These properties are well suited for more dynamic and active situations but also for day-to-day occasions’, he comments. Re-Active H2Dry and K-Wool H2Dry also produce crease-resistant garments. A sweater kept in a suitcase on a long journey instantly regains its look of fresh perfection, without the slightest trace of creasing or crumpling. A practical advantage for day-to-day use: garments are always ready to be worn. ‘Those customers that are price driven find that with our strict Italian environmental laws we are already environmentally friendly compliant to a high degree. The chemicals we use in H2Dry are bio degradable and Ecotex Certified. We are pleased to be able to offer this environmental credential as we have many high end customers that insist on this as a priority as well as relying on our ability to provide the best performance yarn possible’.

PURE NEW WOOL

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

extile manufacturers around the globe are under considerable pressure to use Eco friendly wool treatment detergents and lubricants. ‘Obtaining Eco friendly chemical agents at a competitive prices is important for processors of wool and woollen yarn to stay ahead of their competition’, says Mr Zhu Jiankun, the general manager of Jiaxing Mount Chemical Co., Ltd in Zhejiang China. The company is well known to its customers in China and Europe, supplying chemical agents under its ‘Dalis’ brand. ‘Dalis’ has developed and supplies a wide range of processing agents including degreasing detergents, wool lubricant oil, carding oil, antistatic agent, penetrating agent, and softening agents. These are mainly used in wool scouring, carbonizing, carding, top-making, worsted spinning, woolen spinning, semi-worsted spinning, dyeing and finishing, and mercerized wool, machine washable wool treatment, Basolan treatment processing. ‘Our Dalis brand provides Intertek accreditation to assist wool processing in their application of green and Eco-friendly textile auxiliaries. Pollution is a common problem everywhere and we

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Certificate no.: 2008C0540044 Tested for APEOs and Formaldehyde

are providing quality products for sustainability and environment protection. To contain and resolve chemical pollution, it is essential to apply environmental chemicals’, says Mr Zhu. ‘One of our most popular products is EcoDegreasing Detergent X100 series used in wool scouring and wool carbonising and wool dyeing. It is effective in emulsification while degreasing and washing, it is non-alkaline. It does not break down the protein fibre in the wool, or

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

corrode machinery. It is suitable for all kinds of wool scouring and is particularly good in colder climates’, comments Mr Zhu. Eco-Degreasing Detergent X100 series is especially suitable for high quality Australian wool scouring because of its degreasing ability, and outstanding after effect on the appearance and feel of the wool. ‘It is very cost effect and economical’. Eco-Degreasing Detergent X100 series is alkali and acid resistance and is not affected by hard water. And, provide excellent biodegradability, good in post grease recovery processing and effluent treatment. ‘We do not use APEO, formaldehyde, heavy metals,

phthalic acid, or other harmful chemicals. Our Eco-degreasing detergent X100 series clients include companies in Europe, New Zealand, Turkey and Kazakhstan as well as major companies in China such as New Chuwa, Red Sun, Tianyu Wool, and Sunshine Group. ‘Our Eco carding oil, wool lubricant and anti-static agents are widely used in applications for wool carding, top making, spinning, mercerizing wool, machine washable wool and Basolan wool processing, which improve spinnability and yield, reduce production cost’ says Mr Zhu. ‘We are dedicated to ongoing research, development, manufacture and marketing of green Eco-chemical products to reduce pollution, thus improving environmental standards, and to enhance the quality of our customers products, as well as saving energy and costs. We welcome enquires from companies that are interested in using our agents’, he concludes. Please contact Mr Zhu Jiankun at jxmount@163.com www.dalishi123.cn wool2yarnglobal 2016

WOOL & YARN TREATMENT

washable merino without chlorine Environmental protection is one of the key corporate aims of the Südwolle Group. Winning the highly regarded OutDoor Industry Award 2015 in the category of ‘Sustainable Innovators’ acknowledges its environmental commitment to research into Naturetexx® Plasma treatment over some ten years. This dry process treatment uses electricity and air to deliver machine washable Merino wool.

utDoor judges commented that Südwolle Group’s Naturetexx® Plasma that treats wool without using chlorine or other chemicals and is AOXfree, demonstrates a significant advancement in environmentalfriendly solution to wool processing. Naturetexx® Plasma is a genuine alternative to Superwash rather than just a specialty organic niche treatment. In addition to this Gold Award the company has secured GOTS and OEKO-TEX® as well as bluesign® certifications. According to Südwolle Group, this process is an environmental leap forward from the traditional Superwash treatment. As well as machine washability, it also delivers fibre with the same tenacity, better pilling performance and significantly improved ability to absorb moisture. Naturetexx® Plasma is created by holding a strong electric voltage across a non-conducting

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gas - often in low-pressure conditions. The voltage ionises the gas into a more reactive fundamental state. When wool tops are passed through the plasma field, the surface of the fibre reacts with the energized gas, reducing the size of the cuticle scales and removing the felting effect. The plasma process is carried out at atmospheric pressure, and the gas used is normal air. The major input is electricity, without chlorine and without water. Südwolle Group mainly offers Naturetexx® Plasma treated products for customers who require GOTS and bluesign®certification, as well as those companies with a commitment to environmental sustainability. The company expects that demand for this treatment will grow considerably in the next couple of years. Naturetexx® Plasma treated yarns are available in a wide range of counts and blends, perfect for easy-care performance apparel.

A new technology for easy-care Merino. Designed to protect nature.

Naturetexx® Plasma PROTECTS THE ENVIRONMENT No chlorine, just air and plasma. This revolutionary process, powered by renewable energy, is the ecological alternative to chlorine-based chemical treatments for wool.

PIONEERING TECHNOLOGY In the 1970’s a chlorine based treatment was developed to make wool machine washable. Now there is a radical new solution: A plasma treatment which modifies the surface of the individual wool fibres altering the scales on the fibre surface that cause felting.

EXCELLENT WASHING MACHINE PERFORMANCE Naturetexx® Plasma Merino can be machine washed and tumble dried. Because the fibres are permanently modified, it will never wear out.

FOR ALL KIND OF GARMENTS Whereever easy-care Merino is needed, Naturetexx® Plasma delivers all the desirable natural properties. Whether it is socks, underwear, sweaters, insulation – for fashion or for sports.

THE BEST OF MERINO Warm, comfortable, durable and good looking. Moisture controlling and breathable. Natural, renewable and biodegradable.

www.naturetexxplasma.com

Contact us for more information about Naturetexx® Plasma treated Merino yarns. yarns@suedwollegroup.de www.suedwollegroup.de

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stands for “EX-Pollution” ‘EXP is the first wool finishing process in the world to meet the strict criteria of the “bluesign®” and “Global Organic Textile (G.O.T.S)” standards. It also conforms to the EU-Eco Flower and Oeko-Tex standard’, says Kurt Haselwander CEO at Schoeller the Spinning Group. Mr. Haselwander explains that the patented EXP treatment does not change the wool surface as the Hercosett treatment does, and therefore it preserves the inherent characteristics of wool that provide such excellent fibre functionality. Fibre performance such as anti-felting, machine washability including TM31 (1x7A / 5x5A), or tumble drying (TEC) are comparable to those that have undergone superwash treatment. ‘If you think about sustainable wool treatment EXP is the benchmark’, says Mr Haselwander. EXP also brings the possibility to color wool in new brilliant shades particularly brilliant white. This

Enciel Technology was developed together with TMC. ‘Our EXP chlorine-free process uses fewer resources than conventional processes and is carried out reliably at our European manufacturing site. It is a truly all-round sustainable innovation. And we see it as a revolution in treatment. Wool has a scaly surface, and as its fibres do not sit uniformly, they snag when they contact one another’, he comments. ‘A warm, humid environment increases this effect and the wool becomes felted. Wool is treated in order to prevent this from happening. The conventional process previously used involves smoothing these scales and then coating the chlorinated wool fibres with a wash-resistant film. A substantial amount of AOX pollutant is released during this process. The result is environmental pollution and is directly attributable to the wool fibres. EXP completely avoids the use of chlorine and employs natural salts as an oxidization agent. ‘We are working with top makers around the world to introduce this new technology. We are also providing topmakers the opportunity to process their tops using the EXP method on a commission basis at our facilities at TTIin Hard Austria. Customers at retail can be confident that the environmental credentials they increasingly look for can be found in garment with such product labelling’, says Mr Haselwander.

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EXPERTS IN DYEING AND COLOUR MATCHING • Top Dyeing • Package Yarn Dyeing • Top Dyed Yarns • Fibre/yarn testing on site • Fibre Blending • Sythetic tow to top converting

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT US: T: +44 (0) 1274 676321 E: sales@bulmerandlumb.com www.bulmerandlumb.com Bulmer & Lumb Group Limited Buttershaw, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD6 2NE

From left to right: Lee Darvill – Sales Director, Matthew Whitehead – Finance Director, David Midgley – Managing Director, Paul Hamilton – Technical Director, Gareth Jones – Sales Manager.

DYEING

experts in dyeing and colour matching

ulmer and Lumb have been dyeing fibre for almost 100 years. ‘Our reputation is built on careful selection and control of raw materials and on continual investment in new equipment, both of which ensure our processes are amongst the most efficient and balanced in the industry’, says Lee Darvill sales director from the company plant in West Yorkshire, UK. ‘Our integrated business provides an important advantage in monitoring the impact of quality in each subsequent process. All specifications, from incoming raw materials to outgoing tops and yarns, are tailor-made to suit the end use of the product ensuring ultimate performance. The development, assessment and continuity of colour have been fundamental to the success of Bulmer & Lumb dyes. ‘Delivering the highest standards of colour service continues to be a vital part of our business. Inhouse colour ranges have been developed for tops and yarns and we offer a bespoke facility to spinners, knitters, weavers and the retail trade’, says Lee Darvill. Accurate colour reproduction is achieved through close liaison with dyers, colour matchers and laboratory technicians ensuring a fast and accurate response. This blend of traditional expertise combined with hightech assistance helps fine tune colours to the highest standards, a particular important factor when producing tops/yarns for uniforms for ‘mix and match’suitings. The company uses a variety of wool types,

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dependent on the end product, much of which is sourced from the major growing areas of Australia, South Africa and South America. ‘We make every effort to use natural resources and energy in the most efficient way, and recognise the responsibility to dispose of all unavoidable waste as safely as possible’. Bulmer and Lumb is fully compliant with the EEC Directive of Integrated Pollution Prevention Control and is committed to ensuring chemicals and dyestuffs used cause no harm including non-pollution of manufacturing site, watercourses and emissions into the atmosphere. Top dyed products for the manufacture of yarns, are used in the highest quality woven, knitwear and hosiery fabrics. Bulmer and Lumb dyes fine and coarse micron wools, including those that have been previously ‘shrink resist treated’ and made suitable for ‘Total Easy Care’. Top dyed polyesters and nylons are dyed to form blends predominantly with wool. It also dyes speciality fibres including noble fibres such as cashmere, silk, alpaca and mohair. ‘We use the latest techniques in high-density packing with variable flow. Our computer controls are fitted to each vessel, giving the quality required by modern, high speed drawing and spinning machines’, he says. ‘Our modern laboratory, employing colour computed shade matching that produces cost effective dye recipes to meet all shades and colour fastness specifications. Bulmer & Lumb offers fast, efficient and accurate colour reproduction

DYEING

Bulmer & Lumb can accommodate most types of dye packages with soft winding facility available for parallel sided dye packages

through close liaison between dyer and colour matcher. Traditional skills combined with high-tech assistance to fine-tune colour to the highest standard. ‘We provide ‘Bespoke’ development of colours for our customers and make rigorous checks throughout processing’.

Yarn Bulmer & Lumb supplies worsted yarn for weaving, knitwear, hosiery and upholstery yarns. The company offers a count range from NM 8 to NM 52, in 100% wool and wool synthetic blends. It also offers yarn in Wool blends with Noble fibres such as cashmere, silk, angora and mohair. The company supplies customers around the world with natural and synthetic yarns including wool, cotton, nylon, polyester, FR polyester, acrylic, cashmere, mohair, rayon and blends. ‘We have a wide range of yarn available in stock for weaving, hosiery yarns including 100% pre-treated wools and blends with nylon, fast to machine wash specifications’, says Gareth Jones sales manager. ‘Our advanced colour matching element delivers uniform fabrics and suitings that require ‘mix and match’ repeatability’. ‘In the world of international textile manufacturing we are recognised as a specialist dyer of spun and filament yarns’, he says. ‘Our modern dyehouse is equipped with state of the art touch screen controllers reporting to a central computer system. We operate a ‘Bespoke’ computer control system monitoring order input, delivery and invoicing.

Gareth Jones (left) and Lee Darvill

Bulmer & Lumb’s laboratory pilot dyeing machines are capable of accommodating most types of dye packages. It provides automatic bar-coding, check weighing and dispensing of dye, as well as radio frequency drying and hot ovens, depending on type of yarn to be dried. It also offers softwinding if required and rewinding of yarn after drying to give optimum package for the next process. Modern gilling and combing machinery provides a unique system of colour blending through clean, clear and level sliver for efficient spinning operations. ‘Our unique production of ‘bumps’ after the final finisher gill operation, provides for subsequent press packed bales ready for despatch. Sales Tops/Yarns: Lee Darvill leedarvill@bulmerandlumb.com Gareth Jones Gareth.jones@bulmerandlumb.com Yarn Dyeing: David Lambert david.lambert@bulmerandlumb.com

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YARN INNOVATION

wool makes a splash in performance apparel by: Jessica Lewis

igh performance apparel is the fastest growing sector of the textile industry. According to some estimates, by 2019 this market will be worth $1.78 billion. Wool is increasingly being used in high performance apparel and garment manufacturers are turning to Merino wool for cutting-edge performance in their garments. The natural crimp in Merino fibre creates insulating air pockets that are soft and ideal to wear next to skin. Keeping warm when cool, and cool when hot, are great natural attributes that together with its natural elasticity mean these garments retain their ‘as-new’ appearance for longer and offer extra resilience. They also absorb and release moisture vapour, and are better resistant to odour, all ideal in sportswear and garments for the busy 21-century consumer. The Woolmark Company (TWC) is leading in development of 52

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performance wool apparel. TWC presented a wool sourcing guide dedicated to sportswear at ISPO, which included 25 fabrics developed by Mira Corp, using the LincSpun technology. TWC’s Wool Lab Sport, part of the Spring/Summer 2017 edition of The Wool Lab, presents a collection of the world’s most inspiring and technically advanced wool fabrics and yarns suitable for base, mid and outer-layer apparel. Designers and manufacturers are connecting their technical skills, expertise and passion, to advance the natural benefits that make wool the

ultimate performance fibre. There are two main streams for activewear - sportswear and protective clothing. Sport apparel is the biggest segment and will continue to grow rapidly due to a growth in fitness consciousness, rising income levels in developing countries. The growing popularity of sports apparel for women and the trend towards stylish and comfortable sportswear is a factor to this growth. Due to this demand, yarn manufacturers are developing new and innovative yarn for fabric used in activewear. The consumer demands eco-friendly fibre and functionality, fashion and style from their garments - and Merino wool is an ideal fibre that ticks all the boxes. Yarn manufacturing companies such as Südwolle Group, Schoeller Spinning Group, Bruffa Zegna, and many others are embracing this new phase in yarn production, developing new and innovative yarns for high

YARN INNOVATION

The featured suit designed by Dashing Tweeds and tailored by Davies and Son of Savile Row includes elasticated ‘action’ shoulders for ease of movement, whilst reaching for the handlebars and a new mud splash flap which fastens up from the rear of the jacket and includes an extra hi vis panel. The Lumatwill cloth reflects car headlights at night, and by day, the 3M fibres look like elegant silver threads with an elegant faint pinstripe three button blazer jacket and trousers

performance fabrics from woollen yarn and blends.

performance yarns and apparel. Pitti Filati picked wool as a

The Baruffa H2DRY process makes K-WOOL and WOOLAND yarn, a total easy care combination yarn of wool and polyamide, creating a new performance yarn. Südwolle Group also brings a range of elite performance yarns to the market, combining the traditional benefits of merino wool with state-of-the-art spinning technology. The Schoeller Spinning Group, supplier of innovative yarns, offers a wide range of performance yarns in merino and merino wool blends.

fibres. Products on offer from Italian, German, Scottish,

Recent ISPO and Pitti Filati exhibitions have featured a wide range of high

it’s hot and warm when it’s cold - that’s what we’ve been

major example in the latest performance yarns from natural Japanese and English specialist spinners showcased why woolen yarn, used in garments, are as easy to care for as those from manmade yarns. Pitti exhibitors demonstrated to buyers such qualities as washability, easy drying, water repellence, moisture management, elasticity and resistance to odour, cooling or heat retaining properties. Craig Vanderoef, senior director for Global Running Apparel and Customisation with Adidas in Germany, spoke at the 2016 IWTO Congress in Australia. ‘Sport wear has traditionally been dominated by synthetic fibres’, he said. ‘But characteristics of natural fibres like wool provide exactly what our products need. Wool keeps you cool when trying to do with synthetic fibres forever’. wool2yarnglobal 2016

YARN INNOVATION

Austrian manufacturer launches new yarn type ‘Our participation at IPSO Munich gives us the opportunity to showcase our new and innovative products to this expanding market’, says Kurt Haselwander CEO. ‘We will launch a new type of yarn with some convincing technical possibilities. It is not only an evolution, it will be a little revolution’, he says. Every year more than 2,600 international exhibitors present their latest products in outdoor, ski, and action wear, as well as in performance sportwear, and more. Visitors number over 80,000 from some 110 countries.

The quality of textiles for fashion, sports and technical fields of application is essentially dependent on the quality of the primary material used - the yarn. ‘Our product mix policy is concentrated on the high value of these products and on their functionality. With our innovative developments, we are on the cutting edge of any new trend and our customers are the beneficiary of this in their textiles. At ISPO we will launch a new yarn technology. It will be easier to get perfect wool garments with convincing performance’.

Schoeller is the recent recipient of the EU Ecolabel for its high ecological standards. As a manufacturer of innovative and sustainable textiles, Schoeller’s products are environmentally friendly and of the highest quality.

The impact that intelligent textiles is having on the retail sector is huge. Its gathering momentum is particularly evident in efficient sportswear, first and second layers, outerwear and useful accessories for winter sports. And eco labelling is as important to consumers to day as is its efficiency. Retail consumers are better informed and know exactly what they want and expect from their garments.

This Ecolabel distinction demonstrates the high ecological standards, quality and product safety that Schoeller has achieved in its products. ‘During the production process, we focus on ease of care and skin-friendly properties. As a result, we have found that sustainably produced textiles and materials are highly popular’, says Kurt Haselwander. An extensive testing process by the Consumers’ Information Association of Austria (VKI) selected two Schoeller products made of 100% fine merino wool of various yarn counts for children’s and baby clothes. 54

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The Schoeller Spinning Group is a global supplier of yarns with a particular focus on worsted yarn. ‘Our yarns are made from pure Merino wool, as well as Merino synthetic fiber mixtures, and yarns for coarse to super fine milling(14.5µ). We offer a large range of products and work in close collaboration with our customersand brands. We firmly believe that spinning together will yield the best solutions.We offer industrial yarns, traveltex yarns, technical yarns, functional yarns, hosiery yarns, and yarns for hand knitting

YARN INNOVATION

worsted spinning preparation units deliver productivity gains NSC is a well known supplier of preparation units for worsted spinning. ‘It is our aim to provide our customers with the latest technology to optimise their productivity. And we do this while meeting safety, quality, and production requirements’, says Patrick Strehle Commercial Sales Director at nsc fibre to yarn. ‘Our GV20 vertical gill, FM20P horizontal rubbing frame, and FMV40 vertical rubbing frame achieves this and more,’.

GV20 vertical gill

GV20 vertical gill is a high speed vertical drafting machine designed to produce light slivers to feed rationally before fine yarn spinning. It is available with manual or automatic delivery and 2 or 4 heads with a pinned or apron control drafting system. ‘It is an essential element of fine yarn preparation units’, he says. It is available with two or four heads with a pinned or apron control drafting system.

Type A: long drafting system with control barrels on wide apron Type B: short drafting system with double apron Type C: short drafting system with control barrels on apron

It has a high production level and balances fine and very fine yarn spinning lines. It is available with manual or automatic delivery and produces light sliver down to 2 ktex at high speed up to 500 m/min, perfectly adapted to the third and fourth passage of the preparation line. The FM20 horizontal rubbing frame reaches a speed of 220 m/min with a rubbing speed up to 1200 cycles / min. The elaborate design and the precise adjustment of the drafting, rubbing, and winding-up elements as well as an efficient suction ensure attractive operational costs and products of excellent quality. FM20P

is reliable, flexible, and highly productive. It is equipped with a double apron drafting system. It works well on fine count yarns and its man/machine dialogue is achieved by a touch type screen terminal provides access to counting, tachometry, display functions and enables adjustments and assistance to diagnosis. It is available with 4, 6, or 8 cans Ø 500 x 100mm with two or four ends. It is an ideal machine for wool and long staple chemical fibres. FMV40 vertical rubbing frames are high speed finishers that are particularly gentle on fine fibres. As a spinning preparation finisher it rubbed rovings in the count range of Nm 0.66 - 6. It runs entirely automatic bobbin doffing and three interchangable types of drafting. It delivers up to 275 m/min with only one rubbing level. The machine is controlled by a touch type screen terminal giving access to production counter, speed and machine faults diagnosis. This FMV40 is particularly favoured by customers in China’, says Mr Strehle as it is fully automated. ‘It is available with 12, 16, 20 or 24 heads with automatic doffing. For more information please contact Patrick Strehle at patrick.strehle@nsc.fr wool2yarnglobal 2016

YARN INNOVATION

a brand behind the brands The catwalks in Milan, Paris, and Shanghai is all about the glamour, and the genius of the likes of Armani and Louis Vutton. But there is more behind this glamour - it starts with the fibre - the beautiful merino wool. But it is the yarn that makes the fabric beautiful, luxurious, or casual, as required. It is the yarn that makes the fabric feel and drape the way the designer wants and enables the Armanis of this world to design fashion magic - and it is the yarn manufacturing company that is the brand behind the brand.

by: Victor Chesky

egna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia is one such brand, and as a leading Italian company producing top-quality yarns for the fashion industry since the 1850s. I asked Alfredo Botto Poala company president and Dr. Luciano Bandi managing director for sales and marketing what makes Zegna Baruffa a preferred supplier of yarn to high end fashion labels. ‘Quality is always in fashion’, says Dr. Bandi. ‘We belong to a small but exclusive club of companies that still produce high quality yarn in Italy today. It must be said that there are only a few companies left in Italy that can identify their product as truely ‘made in Italy’. Superior quality at any cost has been our 56

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precious raw materials including extra-fine wool, silk and cashmere. ‘Many yarn manufacturers today can produce good yarn, but only within a specific range or yarn type. Very few can offer a wide range of yarn types that are consistently superior. This is why our wide range of yarns is preferred by many high end fashion labels including Armani, Louis Vutton and Ermenegildo Zegna’, says Dr Bandi.

company position from day one and this has not changed. The company is vertically integrated and manufactures woollen, worsted, and fancy yarns of natural fibres and noble blends for knitwear, weaving and hand-knitting. All yarns are made of

‘All production facilities for dyeing, spinning, and research is based in-house at our plants in Lessona Biella, Borgosesia and Vigliano. We are in control the entire production process. Our ‘made in Italy’ mantra spells quality, creativity, environmental

YARN INNOVATION

Dr. Luciano Bandi and Alfredo Botto Poala in front of a photo of the company workers and the factory that dates back to 1850

credentials, and a social conscience when it comes to looking after our workers. Zegna Baruffa’s entire production line is handled by its own staff, and this allows them to provide their customers flexibility in delivery time and in all aspects of its production. ‘This flexibility is very important to the high end brands that we service. Fast changing trends in the garment industry require us to make changes as they are needed and our close working relationship with brands makes this possible’, he says. Today the company presents four collections per year in its 3 yarn brands - Baruffa, Chiavazza, and Botto Poala - so constant change and innovation is what they aim to achieve. All product lines are authentically “natural” because the choice of raw materials favours fine and noble fibres. The Baruffa Cashwool® is exclusively spun using Extrafine Merino Wool of a medium fineness of less than 19,5 micron. This yarn is wool2yarnglobal 2016

YARN INNOVATION

the company’s leading product and is available in a range of 300 colours and in-stock service. ‘Chiavazza offers luxury yarns with an emphasis on quality Pure Cashmere with a colour chart of 165 variations. Its 2016/17 collection retains its emphasis on softness and lightness’, says Paola Rossi, colour and style co-ordinator. ‘And when it comes to our Botto Poala label we produce worsted yarn from superfine merino wools and pure cashmere and high quality silk for knitwear, weaving, and knitting. In our exclusive yarn selections we make yarn using the finest wool in the world sometimes using merino as fine as 13.75 microns’.

Pure Cashmere with 160 colour variations. Soft touch and lightness are its main features. Chiavazza CASHWOOL resilience extreme colour brightness and fastness and softness are essential features of this yarn

As to the future, Dr Bandi foresees a growth in customer expectation in garment performance at multiple levels. ‘In the future a garment may be expected to perform in different situations from morning to night from jumping on a scooter in the morning, working in the office all day, and then going for dinner in the evening. This performance will be expected in everyday wear as well as sportswear. Good performance means elasticity, minimal wrinkling and tearing, and a garment that is easy to look after’. ‘We are investing in research for such new products. We are passionate about forward momentum in creating such innovative performance products. Our H2DRY wool treatment is a step in this direction. This technical treatment gives pure wool yarns improved characteristics in breathability, elasticity, and uncrushability’, says Dr. Luciano Bandi. ‘And one day we will have a jacket and suit that will check our blood pressure, heartbeat, and GPS and who knows what else and it will still need to be comfortable and feel good, and function in any climate’. ‘Italy is the only country in Europe that remains with such a strong textile tradition. We rely on our 166 years of expertise, creativity and passion that translates into our beautiful yarn,’ Dr Bandi concludes.

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YARN INNOVATION

Michell´s Alpaca yarns shine at Pitti Filati 2016

he passion of working with Alpaca and the creativity of its designers has enables Michell to create yarns that are truly special. ‘Our latest Alpaca Yarn Collection presented at the end of June 2016 at Pitti Filati for the A/W 17-18 was very well received’, says Juan Pepper Commercial Manager at Michell. ‘Our aim is to change fashion for style, and by style we mean by providing yarns of the highest quality, both classic and fantasy, so that designers can create knits which are unique and luxurious’, he says. Alpaca has been valued for its fibre since pre-Incan times due to the properties and quality of its hair. Michell has been processing this historic fibre for nearly 85 years and today it is a leading exporter of Alpaca tops and yarns in the world. ‘Our yarn collections are inspired by the magical Andean Heritage and the softness, texture and sumptuousness of Alpaca fibre. If you want to make a very unique garment, with a strong statement, then you should have a close look at our latest yarn collection’, says Raul Rivera, Marketing Manager. The Andean Heritage A/W 17-18 Michell Alpaca Yarn Collection features three lines of Yarns: Puna, Quechua & Chala. Under each line, the company presents a wide range of classic and fancy yarns that are soft, bulky and yet light, with in-trend colours from solid shades, heathers, melanges, colour injection to hand painted shades for

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Alpaca grazing in the Peruvian Highlands at the Mallkini Farm

industrial knitting and hand knitting. Each collection uses the finest, luxurious Alpaca qualities: Gold Alpaca (19/20mic), Baby Alpaca (21/22mic) and FS Alpaca (25/26mic). It also includes a wide range of blends of Alpaca with other natural fibres, such as Cashmere, Silk, Yak, Merinos, Linen and Merinos, as well as blend with manmade and synthetic fibres. ‘We present a comprehensive line of yarns and colours though the new collection, but we like to work closely with customers to design unique yarns – blends, count, colours and presentations according to their personal specifications,’ says Raul Rivera. Part of the Michell Collection includes the “Eco Alpaca and Blends Yarn Collection A/W 17-18”, aimed for those customers looking for either classic or fancy yarns 100% natural and using natural shades only. The Eco Collection is guaranteed 100% natural and undyed. Michell’s “Apu Hand Spun Yarn Collection A/W 17-18” features three unique yarns that are 100% hand spun in different weights and textures and these are hand dyed by artisans in 3 different techniques. For stock service yarns, Michell’s Alpaca Stock Services A/W 1718” is available through its head office in Arequipa(Peru), as well as in Lima and Cusco. It presents new colours and eight different qualities, three of these are new for the upcoming season. For the hand knitting market there are 2 qualities under stock service with Michell´s labels Indiecita and Laja. For those looking for the ultimate hand knitting experience, Michell has launched a limited edition Vicuña by Michell yarns for hand

YARN INNOVATION

Michell Machine Knitting & Hand Knitting Alpaca Yarn Collection A/W 17-18

Michell launched the A/W 17-18 AlpacaYarn Collections at Pitti Filati

knitters who love to knit with the most exclusive and finest animal fibre in the world. ‘To achieve the highest quality yarn Michell has pioneered a genetic and Alpaca breeding centre. Mallkini farm covers over 3,000 hectares of land and runs more than 4,000 Alpacas of the Huacayo and Suri types’, says Derek Michell, Group Director. ‘Mallkini is the biggest privately funded Alpaca breeding project in Peru. Michell Group is committed to teaching Alpaca farmers about how to improve existing breeding programmes in Puno’s Highland communities. A clear demonstration of social responsibility is evident to anybody visiting this beautiful farm.

A wide range of yarns offered by Michell´s Stock Service: - Baby Alpaca · 2/16nm, 2/28nm, 4/9nm, - FS Alpaca · 2/16nm, 3/10nm - Baby Silk · 2/30nm - Caraveli · 1/5nm - Caraveli Brushed · 1/5nm - Grosso Fancy Chaine 1/2.5nm - Laja 1/3nm - Ica · 3/12nm, 2/28nm

MIchell`s work in social responsibility includes the Elementary School called Mirasol, which was founded in 2007 to board children from 1st to 6th grade. The school aims to provide better education and nutrition for the children of the Alpaca shepherds. Today the Mirasol School hosts 50 children from Mallkini and surround areas in the Puno Region, main Alpaca breeding region in Peru. Today, Michell is a fully integrated textile group that starts from breeding and operates all the way through to the retailing of the finest Alpaca and Vicuña garments under its brand Sol Alpaca. To find out more about Michell yarns and its divisions, please visit the company web site www.michell.com.pe or contact Juan Pepper at jpepper@michell.com.pe

Limited edition Vicuña by Michell yarns for hand knitters

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YARN INNOVATION

working in partnership with carpet manufacturers

anspin yarn is well known for its high yield by carpet manufacturers. It is one of a very few yarn manufacturers that started in the 1950s and is still producing yarn today. ‘We are not just an average yarn supplier’, says Christian Eli sales manager. ‘We have close relationships with carpet manufacturers enabling us to better understand what yarn will best suit their needs. We offer more than just yarn - we offer partnerships and spend a lot of time understanding our customers and their products. We are often involved in developments together with our partners already from the early stage of an idea and this enables us to create the optimal yarn best suited to a particular carpet.’ In its early days Danspin was particularly big in the manufacture of synthetic yarn. By 1988 under new management it became a public company. In 1997 Lars G Pedersen took the reign as managing director and the company converted to private ownership. The company took a new direction as it focused on and specialised in woollen yarn production. Twelve years ago all yarn and dyeing production shifted to Lithuania. ‘We chose this region for its reliable workforce and 62

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‘This is not just about price - we provide a full package. It is about yield, helping to develop new and exciting products, individual attention in offering new ideas and designs to our clients’, says Christian Eli

close proximity to our main buyers in Europe’, says Mr Pedersen. ‘Today carpet industry trends and colours change seasonally so being near customers for quick delivery is important’. At a time when yarn manufacturers were shrinking Danspin was able to keep reinvesting back into the company and into production and quality control.’Our yarn has a very high yield. Less yarn is needed to produce more. There is little or no waste and the outcome is a high quality product,’ says Christian Eli. Danspin’s Lithuania factory is 32,000 sq metres in size and employs some 370 people. It processes 8 million kilos of yarn per year. 6 million of this is woollen yarn and a further 2 million is blends. The company predominantly uses New Zealand wool for higher end carpets. It exports its yarn within Europe, and to USA, and Asia. Danspin has the facility to dye 75 tons of yarn per week. It does not commission dye. Its modern dye house provides a wide range of styles including heather effects. Danspin is one of the few spinning mills in the world to be selected to offer Wools of New Zealand’s Laneve traceable wool fibre. Laneve partners are selected to be part of trusted value chains that offer an impeccable standard of quality,

value and customer service. ‘Size does matter when it comes to yarn production for the carpet industry’, says Mr Eli. ‘When manufacturers supply carpet to such sectors of the industry as cruise ships, casinos, hotel chains, and other big commercial enterprises, working with a yarn manufacturer with the ability to deliver quickly and consistently is of prime importance. We also offer a smoke resistant treatment to our yarn that is particularly attractive to carpet manufacturers in this sector. There is no margin for error or in delivery delay. Our customers know that we can deliver.’ ‘As a service to our customers we use the Mtuft machine to creates small and innovative carpet samples for clients to view and consider. Each sample is designed and produced as a one off exclusive sample. The customer knows that the sample is exclusive to them and as we do not manufacture carpet ourselves there is no conflict of interest,’says Christian Eli. ‘We have established a long term commitment to yarn manufacturing’, says Lars Pedersen. ‘Our partners come to us with specific ideas and we can take these ideas to develop a yarn that will achieve their objective’.

YARN INNOVATION

spinning a new yarn the Stucken Group’s MSSA continues to diversify

ohair Spinners South Africa (MSSA) is a worsted spinner specialising in mohair and mohair blended yarns but offers other natural fibre blends such as wool, silk, alpaca and linen. MSSA’s semi-worsted, compact spinning and fancy twisting has truly made it one of the world’s most flexible natural fibre spinning plants in the world. As a result of the fire in 2015, MSSA made the decision to restructure the mill to add a coloured spinning section. The Group’s dyeing facility, Speciality Yarn Dyers (SYD), has recently undergone a major investment in upgrading its

hank and package dyeing equipment as well as adding top dyeing to its repertoire in order to service the spinning in its newest venture. MSSA has maintained its philosophy over the years of supplying yarns to a wide variety of niche markets whilst avoiding the larger and more competitive commodity sectors. This approach has proven successful and allowed the Group to continue investing in its value adding processing and hereby remain at the forefront of technological advancements and producing quality products so that customers ‘keep coming back’. wool2yarnglobal 2016

YARN INNOVATION

Hans G. von Schuh, Managing Director Sales at Südwolle Group

yarn for high performance activewear

onsumers are demanding better performance from their garments and that includes outdoor and leisurewear. They expect these garments to perform on multiple levels including regulating and responding to body temperature, moisture absorption, and comfort. In response to this challenge innovative performance garments are being developed using extraordinary yarns from Merino fibre and blends. Südwolle Group brings a range of elite performance yarns to the market, combining the traditional benefits of Merino wool with stateof-the-art yarn spinning technologies.’I think no other company offers more variety in types of yarn for both weaving and knitting than Südwolle Group’, says Hans G. von Schuh, Managing Director Sales at Südwolle Group. ‘Today our customers require an individual approach for their yarns and each of our brands focus on a specific market segment. This enables us to provide a specialised service to different sectors of the textile industry’. For the flat knitting sector, Südwolle Group’s BIELLA YARN specialises in worsted pure wool and wool blend yarns. ‘Modern processing enables us

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to produce yarns of outstanding performance’, says Hans G. von Schuh. ‘By combining Merino wool with other natural or synthetic materials we create a variety of products for special applications’. Flat knitting yarn innovations from BIELLA YARN in sport fashion includes its Chinook Nm 2/30-2/48, a 45% extrafine Merino wool with 55% anti-shrinkage using COOLMAX® ALL SEASON technology and conventional spinning. COOLMAX® ALL SEASON achieves good moisture management and wicking performance. It also enhances the natural moisture management that wool provides. ‘By bringing sports innovations into the fashion space we are making urban garments more practical, and suitable for warmer weather’, says Hans G. von Schuh.

For the circular knitting market Südwolle Group offers three performance yarns under its YARN IN MOTION brand. Sumner Nm 80/1 is 50% Tencel and 50% wool TEC single yarn. Its properties in cool and dry performance for S/S season are excellent. This fine and very soft yarn is cooler and stronger than 100% Merino. It is designed for lightweight fabrics, demanded by performance brands. The Tencel mix offers faster drying than 100% Merino, and since Tencel is produced from renewable eucalyptus fibres, it is a 100% renewable, biodegradable yarn available in S&Z for seamless use. Weaving yarn innovations by the brand SüDWOLLE include its SRP Gallipoli Nm 76/2, 80% wool and 20% Linen Super, Siro-Spun. This wool/linen blend adds the benefits of linen to a woolen base. The yarn delivers a fine, rustic looking effect to the fabric for a point of difference and linens cool performance, making this ideal for the S/S season. Südwolle Group products have all corresponding certifications such as OEKOTEX®, ISO 9001:2000 or bluesign®. ‘Research and development are key elements in promoting brand focus and customer satisfaction’, comments Hans G. von Schuh. ‘To assist and engage with our customers worldwide all our production facilities are equipped with “small development centers”, which

YARN INNOVATION

are under the umbrella of our central Product Management and Innovation department’. These centers operate in Germany (headquarters), Italy, Poland, Bulgaria, Romania and in China and actively support Südwolle Group’s customer based approach wherever customers are located. One example proving substantial results in research is the game-changing Naturetexx® Plasma treatment that is AOX free and treats wool without chlorine or other chemicals. It only uses electricity and air to deliver machine washable Merino.

Continous Filament Care

Merino Fibre Covering YARN IN MOTION’s Chamonix Nm 60/1 86% Wool 14% Nylon Filament Core-Spun. Advanced Core-Spun spinning technology wraps Merino around a filament core for durable and elastic fabric

Woolwarm Nm 2/30-2/48

Chinook Nm 2/30-2/48

90% extrafine Merino wool antishrinkage, 10% Corebrid Acrylic, conventional spinning. Heating generation under light exposure. Unique property of converting sunlight into heat.

45% extrafine Merino wool anti-shrinkage, 55% COOLMAX® ALL SEASON technology, conventional spinning. Goodmoisture management and wicking performance, bringing sports innovations into fashion.

Mistral Nm 2/30-2/48

Sumner Nm 80/1

Chamonix Nm 60/1

Indiana Nm 60/1

50% Tencel, 50% wool TEC, Single yarn. Fine soft yarn, cooler and stronger than 100% Merino for lightweight fabrics in performance brands. Faster drying than 100% Merino, 100% renewable, biodegradable.

86% wool, 14% Nylon filament, Core-Spun. Advanced CoreSpun spinning technology wraps Merino around a filament core for durable and elastic fabric. Increase in strength, for next to skin.

60% wool mercerized, 40% Nylon 66 Cordura, Single yarn. Extra tough Corduraadds significant strength and durability for high-tenacity fabric. In a fine yarn, lightweight, durable fabrics like a second skin.

Faenza Compact Nm 40,5/1

SRP Gallipoli Nm 76/2

Cord-Wool Nm 76/2

100% Super Kid Cape Mohair, Single yarn, compact. Mohair yarns give natural sheen and a cool, dry hand, perfect luxury for the summer season. Natural anti-crease properties.

80% wool, 20% Linen Super,SiroSpun. The yarn delivers a fine, rustic looking effect and linens cool performance, ideal for the S/S season.

60% Wool X-Care, 40% Nylon 66 Cordura, Siro-Spun. Extra tough Cordura yarn perfect for high-tenacity fabric and travel suits. X-Care treatment without chlorine use, serious ecological credentials and a machine washable fabric.

Moses Nm 30/1

Marin X-Compact Nm 28/1

SafiellaExtrawash Nm 48/1

30% wool TEC, 70% COOLMAX® ALL SEASON, THERMOLITE® ALL SEASON, Single yarn. Temperature and moisture regulation, easy dry.

90% wool TEC, 10% Nylon, Single yarn. X-Compact yarns: high performance in terms of wear resistance and high elasticity, less hairiness and less pilling.

100% wool mercerized, Single yarn. Yarn with resistant and soft wool feel, with minimal pilling, rubbing low abrasion and reduced felting.

45% extrafine Merino wool anti-shrinkage, 55% TERMOLITE® ALL SEASON technology,conventional spinning. Permanent lightweight warmth performance.

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YARN INNOVATION

Indian yarn manufacturer extends its international reach

ndia is the second biggest buyer of Australian wool importing around 17 million kgs and is the largest consumer of Australian scoured wool. Modern Woollens is a major spinning company in India and is a large user of Australian wool. It is the flagship company of the Modern Group, and was started in 1973 as a unit for spinning carpet yarns. It is a vertically integrated manufacturer of all wool and wool-blended worsted yarn and wool tops. Its marketing office is in Mumbai and manufacturing plant in Bhilwara Rajasthan. Modern Woollens is currently one of the biggest manufacturers of wool and blended worsted yarn from India. ‘Our products are exported to more than 25 countries across the globe including Europe, Latin America, Far East, Middle East and African countries. 80% of our turnover comes from export markets, which in itself speaks to our quality standards’, says Mr Rajesh Ranka Chairman of Modern Woollens. The company offers its customers Australian merino raw white and dyed re-combed wool tops from 17 micron to 25 micron, as well as Polyester/ 66

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or normal wool from count Nm 24 to Nm 80 in single and double fold knitting twist.

Wool blended dyed re-combed tops for its yarn production. It is a major exporter of wool grease to Europe, China, and Japan. ‘We operate the most modern European machinery including scouring from Peitrie McKnaught U.K, carding from Thibeau, combing & gilling from N. Schlumberger France, for our production of wool tops. We have a total capacity of 240 tons per month of wool top production and our in-house tops dyeing plant is well equipped with a capacity of 120 tons per month’. The plant in Bhilwara produces yarns to the specification of each individual spinner. ‘In the last year we have added about 1200 spindles and balanced preparatory machines to enhance our production capacity from 1800 tons to 2100 tons of worsted yarn’. Modern Woollens offers 100% wool ECRU (raw white) and top dyed yarns made from Australian merino wool with a count range of: Nm 14 to 120 in single and double twist for weaving, knitting and hosiery. It also offers Polyester/Wool Blended Yarns in ECRU (raw white) and top dyed yarns made from Australian merino wool and polyester from count Nm 24 to Nm 120 in single and double twist for weaving shawl. The company also offers Wool/ Nylon blended ECRU (raw white) and top dyed yarns made from Australian merino super wash shrink resist treated

‘Our other products include all wool ECRU (raw white) and top dyed crepe yarns made from Australian merino wool, and Wool / Silk (85:15), Wool / Alpaca (60:40), Wool / Poly / Alpaca (40:20:40),Super wash wool [TEC] process specialty yarns in count range 32 NM to 120 NM for weaving and knitting. ‘Our laboratory mainly tests yarn for evenness UT-3, ClassimatUsterTensorapid for strength and elongation and other wool top testing. We are Interwoollab and Oeko-tex 100 accredited.’ ‘We have been achieving a greater global reach and continue to extend our footprint in global markets and maintain our good reputation with customers around the world’, says Rajesh Ranka.’Our export growth is due to a variety of products that we can offer to our customers at a very competitive price’. For more information about products available from Moderns Woollens please contact Mr Sujeet Kumar, vice president , marketing at exports@modernwoollens.com

WOOLLENS (A UNIT OF MODERN THREADS (I) LTD.) 5, Bhima Building, Sir Pochkhanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai-400030 Tel- +91-22-24928622 / 23 • Fax- +91-22-24910220 • Email- Exports@Modernwoollens.com Factory: Hamirgarh Road, Dist. Bhilwara, Rajastan-311001, India. Tel- +91-1482-241801/804 • Fax- +91-1482-242288 • Email- Infomum@Modernwoollens.com

YARN INNOVATION

yarn sales & production capacity grow Sales and capacity have been growing for Pashing Woollen this year. ‘Strong orders have been very encouraging’, says Mr Rene Leung, company director, from the head office in Hangzhou, a well-developed local textile hub in China. ‘We have increased production for both the domestic market and for export to customers in USA, Japan, and Europe.’

ashing specializes in the production of all types of woollen and knitted products, conventional yarns such as 8-90 NM/2 woollen yarns, semi-worsted wool yarns, cashmere yarns, rabbit hair yarns, blended silk and cashmere yarns and Shetland wool yarns, and specially blended yarns of any combination of acrylic, cotton, linen, modal and Tensel fibres. The company produces 15,000 tons of yarn each year, much of production going to developing countries such as Vietnam and Bangladesh. Sales to Europe and USA are mostly as finished garments, and we are also interested in developing relationships with companies in these countries to buy our yarn’, says Mr Leung. ‘Our yarn is very competitively priced and of excellent quality’. ‘We have sophisticated spinning machines from Italy and Japan and operate 11 production lines for wool and spindles for semiworsteds. Around 90% of our production is exported and we 68

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certified from the International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology for its knitted sweaters and yarns and is Woolmark and Woolmark Blend licensed by the International Wool Secretariat (IWS).

are proud to be a yarn supplier to famous brands such as Burberry, Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Esprit, Gap and others’, he comments. ‘We employ between 500-600 people. Our team members are professional and skilled in technology, business and management. We are focused on quality recruitment, personnel training, and creating an effective system to attract new talent to our expanding yarn and garment manufacturing business’, says Mr Yong Shi, General Manager, who oversees company production. ‘We have developed our two production bases in Xinchang, Zhejiang province and have set up branches in Shanghai, Europe and New York. We combine production and trade, specialize in design, sales of all kinds of yarn and knitted garments for the domestic and overseas markets’, he says. The company runs its own independent testing laboratory and is Oeko-Tex® Standard 100

50% of all Pashing knitted products are made on Stoll machines and cover gauge from 1.5gg to 16gg. ‘In this we have advantages in pattern making, quality and output. Our yearly knitwear output is around 2,000,000 pieces, mainly going to Europe, USA and Japan. Our garments go to retail customers Khujo, Bebe, Macy’s, Century, Marc Jacobs, Elisabetta Franchi, Patrizia Pepe and more. And we have sufficient space to expand our work force to cope with the growth of our business. We apply strict quality controls to every step of production and welcome enquiries from customers around the world interested in our products from yarn to garment’, says Mr Shi. For more information please contact Gina Jiang gina@pashing.cn

LOOKING FOR A BETTER DEAL ON YARN, FABRIC OR GARMENTS

WE CAN HELP

Woollen Yarns • Semi-worsted Wool Yarns • Cashmere Yarns • Rabbit Hair Yarns Blended Silk & Cashmere Yarns and Shetland Wool Yarns • Specially Blended Yarns any Combination of Acrylic • Cotton • Linen • Modal and Tensel fibres annual production of 2 million sweaters •2,000 tons of various types of yarns

Hangzhou Pashing Woollen & Fashion Co., Ltd 12/F Winner Mansion International, No. 998 Binhe Road, Binjiang District, Hangzhou, China Telephone: +86 571-28912233 • Fax: +86 571-28916718 • Email: pashing@pashing.cn

YARN INNOVATION

domestic and international market grows

iangsu Lianhong Textiles, a vertically integrated Chinese company has experienced tremendous growth in manufacturing of textile products for the domestic and export markets. It is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, knitted garments and wool tops. Based in Zhangjiagang, a port city in the Yangtze Delta it is listed among the Top 10 Enterprises in China’s Woollen and Worsted Spinning Industry and its cashmere yarn is recognised in the Top 10 Brands in China’s Cashmere Yarn Industry. ‘Our customer base has been changing both domestically and abroad, requiring better and better quality. We have realigned our production to meet this demand in better quality all the way through our production pipeline from early wool processing to finished garments’, says Mr Xiaogang Zha, company president. ‘We have achieved this with the support of local government and the innovative work of our employees, both playing a crucial role in the

Mr Xiaogang Zha company president

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growth of our business.’ The company employs more than 950 people, including 200 technical personnel. Lianhong Textiles is fully integrated from scouring wool to knitting garments. The company has an annual production capacity of 6,000 tons of wool tops, 3,500 tons of woollen yarn, 1,000 tons of semi-worsted yarn, 3,000 tons of worsted yarn and 2.5 million knitted garments. Its yarn list includes cashmere yarn, wool yarn, lambswool yarn, silk/cashmere yarn, angora/ nylon yarn, viscose/cotton yarn, wool/ acrylic yarn, and wool/nylon yarn. Its

knitwear products include cashmere sweaters, cashmere shawls, cashmere scarves, cashmere gloves, cashmere/ silk sweaters, cashmere/cotton sweaters, etc. These products are exported to all parts of the world. Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles is ‘Woolmark’ and ‘Woolmark Blend’ licensed and ISO9001:2008 Quality Management System certified, it is also Oeko-Tex Standard 100 accredited and ISO14001:2004 Environment Management System certified. ‘Our production mostly uses Australian wool. We comply

YARN INNOVATION

for Lianhong Textiles

Woollen Carding

Wool Top Making

with environmental, quality, and health standards required by our international customers. We are well positioned to meet the challenges of the future. We remain focused on innovation, research and development,’ he says.

factory has 4 preparation lines from NSC and Sant’Andrea, 20,000-spindle spinning frames from Zinser and 20 winders from Schlafhorst. The knitting factory is equipped with 123 computerized flat knitting machines from Stoll.

Lianhong Textiles has 3 lines from Thibeau and NSC and 2 lines from Octir and Sant’Andrea. The woollen spinning subsidiary has 15 lines from Kyowa and 6 lines from Gaudino and has become the largest woollen yarn production base in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. The worsted spinning

‘70% of our production is in wool, 30% in other fibre including cashmere. Traditionally our production was based on around 21 micron, but recently we have seen demand in finer microns and we are now producing a greater number of products between 17.5 and 19 micron according to

customer demand. Cashmere fibre is limited in quantity making the yarn produced that much more exclusive. Our cashmere yarn is appealing to international brands and accounts for a significant part of our business. We welcome enquiries from customers interested in our products,’ concludes Mr Zha. For more information please contact Heinrich Zhang Email: heinrichzhang@lianhongtex.com Tel: +86-512-58416016 www.lianhongtex.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

MOHAIR

Mohair SA launches first International Mohair University Design Competition

Top entries for the MUD competition on the ramp at the Donghua University

yarns and/ or mohair fabric and materials that were a compulsory element of the competition brief. The competition was divided into two categories; Knitwear and Worsted / Semi-worsted / other.

The winning entry from Donghua University

ith the launch of the Mohair University Design (MUD) Competition in 2015, Mohair South Africa (MSA) has continued to drive future growth within various universities across the globe – and the design competition is about to go up a notch. Future designers and fashion game-changers have been battling it out for first place since the launch of the MUD Competition last year - and now the stage was set to showcase the overall winner at this year’s world-renowned Donghua Fashion Show in Shanghai, China in April 2016. The funds that each university received through MSA ensured that each MUD participant could purchase various mohair

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The 2015/2016 international competition includes: • Mode Gakuen University – Nagoya, Japan • Bunka Fashion College – Tokyo, Japan • Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University Port Elizabeth,South Africa • Nottingham Trent University (NTU) – Nottingham,United Kingdom • Elizabeth Galloway University – Stellenbosch,South Africa • DonghuaFashion school – Shanghai, China With ten of the best designs chosen from the participating universities (Excluding NTU), the selected garments were showcased at the annual Donghua Fashion Show in Shanghai, China in August. One representative from each university was sponsored by MSA to attend the prestigious event; where the overall winner was announced. The NTU textile department ran their own independent competition to design new textiles in mohair. Deon Saayman of MSA added “It’s been such an incredible journey so far! The raw talent that we have seen throughout this competition is impressive. We are so glad to stand behind young students who are so passionate and creative. It’s also great to witness mohair being put to the test; a true testimony for this durable, locally (and internationally) loved natural fibre of the world.”

MOHAIR

The new Mohair headquarters

ohair South Africa celebrated the launch of the new Mohair Headquarters early in 2016. South Africa, but more specifically the Eastern Cape centred on Port Elizabeth, has long been the leading producer of the best quality mohair clips of the world.

and those keen to find out more about this unique fibre from across the globe and has received a very positive response. The customers love the range of products offered in store and many have returned. Please feel free to visit or contact Mohair South Africa for more information on +27 41 5811681 or visit the website www.mohair.co.za.

The building welcomes visitors from across the globe to follow the progress of creative products and designs from shearing shed door to the catwalk floor. Apart from the operational side, the Mohair Headquarters offers a new addition, the Mohair retail store, Studio Mohair was also launched in March 2016. According to blogger Toni Mills in his post (https:// bushpigpost.wordpress.com/2016/03/23/ trials-and-tribulations-of-a-photojournalist-4/), â&#x20AC;&#x153;judging by the merchandise on display in the showroom it will be an instant success. Socks, scarves, blankets, skeins of mohair and even a very special duvet, which is climate savvy according to one of the upper echelon in attendance.â&#x20AC;&#x153;

The Mohair Building Exterior The Mohair library, adjacent to Studio Mohair where visitors interested in the history of Mohair can facilitate research

The building resembles a beautiful synchronisation between the rustic farm aesthetics and modern clean lines, while the illuminate Mohair Mark proudly heralds its positioning as the Mohair capital of the world. The main purpose of Studio Mohair is to introduce the Mohair products produced by the manufacturers to potential buyers and expose them to the versatile uses of the fibre. Situated in a high traffic area just minutes away from the Port Elizabeth airport, the Shop is in a perfect position. Since the opening of the shop, it has been visited by people with an affinity to Mohair wool2yarnglobal 2016

MOHAIR

Masters in Mohair by Siobhan Momberg

time and decline of formality in everyday life. Due to the casualization of the daily wardrobe the latest trend in the fashion world being “athleisure”, where workplace dress codes are beginning to accept, and in some cases tolerate a more casual/informal appearance in the office.

Deon Saayman, MD Mohair SA, Siobhan Momberg, NMMU Textile Design Master student & Mr Bruce Cadle NMMU Principal Lecturer & Programme Leader: B Tech and Postgraduate Studies.

Mohair Bursary student, Siobhan Momberg researched the Mohair fibre for her Masters’ Degree in Textile Design. The “Hybrid” Garment research aims to identify the “need” for adaptable/ multifunctional garments that are designed to accommodate corporate environments as well as recreational and social activities. The aim is focused on the immediacy of these “hybrid” garments, and the minimal time taken to adapt and or transition between the selected environments. The practical component aims at demonstrating the immediacy of the “hybrid” garment while keeping comfort, style and functionality in mind. The “hybrid” garment would be a variation of the latest fashion trend “athleisure”. Athleisure is the contemporary merge between sport/ leisure and everyday life of the individual. This trend explains the apparent “blurring” of class and status in terms of the rise of leisure 74

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“Sports couture has taken the functionality out of sports clothes and transformed it into hyper chic”. - Craik (2005: 161) Craik (2005: 174) suggests that “the wheel of fashion may have turned full circle with the sports obsession redrafting our ideas about clothing, dress and bodily performance in general”. And in addition this realization of the individual as a whole is the main reason why this “athleisure” trend has more room to expand, allowing functional as well as aesthetics requirements in certain fields to be further explored and incorporated into possible variations of the trend. The significance of this study is to identify a need for the “hybrid” garment, and to promote the importance of adaptable/ multifunctional clothing in a culture where consumer demands for comfortable, functional and stylish garments are rapidly growing as the consumers’ lifestyles are getting busier. The hybrid garment will focus mainly on the marriage between functionality and professional aesthetics. “From sportswear, fashion has learnt to protect and equip the body, while from fashion, sportswear has learned to decorate the body and tailor clothing to follow its shape...

MOHAIR

the combined sense of utility, functionality, performance and transformability inherent in sportswear is moving fashion forward” – Quinn (2002: 199) This is where the proposed “hybrid” garment will feature, as it will be adaptable to both corporate environments as well as recreational environments, with the focus on the immediacy of the garment and its ability to effortlessly adapt to each specified field whilst consuming minimal time. The hybrid garment is designed in such a manner that it upholds the professional image encouraged by corporate wear but yet transitions with ease to facilitate recreational and social activities, thus allowing the working individual to look the part in the office and out. The research will discuss certain fabrics and fibres and construction methods that will be necessary in the making of these garments

in order to meet the bodies comfort as well as hygienic requirements in order for the “hybrid” garment to be not only functional but also practical. Mohair due to its resilient and lustrous properties will form a large part of the actual make-up of the garment, as well as a possibility of incorporating a mohair blend into a fabric which would be more suitable to a “sports” type fabric; however this fabric will first have to be tested theoretically and physically. I am looking forward to the outcome of the “hybrid” garment as I feel that if the construction and designing of the garment goes to plan, that the “hybrid” Garment could be the start of a new trend meets lifestyle. I feel very confident about the adoption of mohair into this sector of fashion, as it could be a whole new area for mohair in the fashion industry. wool2yarnglobal 2016

USA

American Wool Council unveils new logo

s American consumers embrace the natural magic of homegrown wool, the American Wool Council has adopted a new look that brings the industry’s image up to par with the products being created everyday with this innovative, sustainable fiber. A division of the American Sheep Industry Association, the American Wool Council developed a new logo after months of consultation with the Sterling-Rice Group of Boulder, Colo. American wool is vigorous enough to support the U.S. military on the frontlines of battle, yet elegant enough to grace red carpets and magazine covers. From the most comfortable socks imaginable to outdoor apparel capable of standing up to the toughest conditions, modern-day American wool is an all-natural product that can even be worn next to the skin. It was imperative to develop a logo that captured such strength and refinement in one recognizable mark. “It’s vital for the wool industry that consumers recognize the versatility of American wool – it truly is Nature’s Magic,” said ASI Director of Wool Marketing Rita Kourlis Samuelson. “When you look at wool and its values, you come back to a natural, premium product that performs at a high level in a variety of circumstances. It can 76

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be sophisticated and beautiful, but it can also be innovative and dynamic. American wool is known for its unparalleled loft and versatility.The benefits of wool simply can’t be matched by any other natural fiber.” The American wool logo will be featured on product tags, as well as in advertising to the international wool trade community. The logo will also appear in promotions for wool consumers. The American Wool Council will offer two logos, one for products made in America and one for products made elsewhere using American wool. Soon to come is a new consumeroriented website at AmericanWool.org. “The American spirit is alive in the fiber, fleece and fabric of natural American Wool,” states an international advertisement featuring the new logo. “This is where happy, healthy sheep are raised to thrive in vast, open ranchlands. It’s where bold shepherds and ranchers are genuine stewards of the earth – constantly seeking sustainable ways to ensure the future of this invaluable industry. This is America, where innovation is celebrated, tradition is respected and high performance reigns.” ASI is an equal opportunity employer. It is the national trade organization supported by 45 state sheep associations, benefiting the interests of more than 85,000 sheep producers.

this land is

WOOL’S LAND

The American spirit is alive in the fiber, fleece and fabric of natural American wool. This is where happy, healthy sheep are raised to thrive in vast, open ranchlands. It’s where bold shepherds and ranchers are genuine stewards of the earth—constantly seeking sustainable ways to ensure the future of this invaluable industry. This is America, where innovation is celebrated, tradition is respected and high performance reigns.

Unparalleled Loft / Exceptional Versatility / Never Mulesed

American Wool Council, a division of American Sheep Industry Association

USA

demand for American wool grows

raditionally American wool has been mostly consumed by its domestic market. But with increasing prices for Australian, New Zealand, and South African wool it has been gaining more attention from processors around the world, and in particular in China. American wool is versatile and suitable for many applications. It is well-known for use in woven apparel, sweaters, hosiery and upholstery. It is also used to make insulation, hand-made rugs, tennis balls, bedding products and clean-up pads for oil and chemical spills. American wool is not mulesed. These sheep, that have never been mulesed, come from a smoother bodied animal that is less likely to suffer fly strike problems. ‘Our goal is to supply our international buyers with the best quality wool to meet their specific processing needs. Our team is very knowledgeable in US wool and its processing suitability, and we also offer our clients extensive services in shipping and logistics’, says Rick Powers division manager at Lempriere USA. Lempriere

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USA offices, located in the south eastern city of Charleston, South Carolina and in Texas, provide ready access to the entire diverse USA wool clip. The Lempriere team has great experience with international top making and scouring as well as more than a decade of successful raw wool marketing to overseas merchants and processors. U.S. sheep producers traditionally harvest wool during the spring months. In fact, more than half of American-produced wool is shorn and sold during April, May and June. The average weight of a fleece in the United States is just over 3kg. However, there is a variation from state to state; for example, an average fleece produced in North Carolina and Iowa weighs 2.2kg while an average fleece produced in Nevada weighs 4.4kg. ‘Our wools provides for almost every type of manufacturing operation from weaving applications to value based woollen manufacturers. Quality wool is the key for us at Lempriere USA. We know the farmers, the fibres, the brokers, and where to source the best wool for each application.’ Lempriere USA can be contacted at wool@lempriere.com.au

ARGENTINA

Patagonia wool continues to please top makers The Argentine government elected last year has introduces a number of economic reforms, including the removal of restrictions in foreign exchange and customs duties, and devaluing the Argentine peso, now floating freely on international currency markets. I asked the Lempriere team in Buenos Aires what effect do they expect this will have on exports of wool from Argentina. by Victor Chesky

‘Our special blend has been in strong demand. This ´GT´ (‘Good Topmaking’) is a blend that represents the best selection of wool in all categories. It comes from our pure fleece and is of the best quality. We strongly recommend it to our existing customers as well as to new ones, as it is ideal for top making. Due to our good The most common sheep breeds reputation and reliable deliveries, in Argentina are Australian Merino we have been the main exporter and Poll Merino, producing fine fibre from 16 microns. These of greasy wool since Lempriere opened the division in wool types have excellent processing capability, and are often Argentina’, says Mariano Guerra, Lempriere senior wool purchased as greasy wool by processors in China, Uruguay, the trader. Czech Republic and India. Wool buying in Argentina is exclusively a private practice. ‘We source most of our wools from the Patagonia region’, says ‘There is no auction system and as such it is extremely Mr Ulrich. ‘This region is the home of some of the best quality important that buyers develop a close working relationship wool in Argentina and is contamination free and completely with wool growers’, says Claudio Ulrich. ´Most of our free of foot and mouth disease. And of course Argentine suppliers have been working with us for decades. We know farmers do not mules their sheep so our wools are nonthe farms and the farmers, and this gives us access to mulesed’. good wool year after year. We know what wool is available Lempriere Argentina exports merino wool in 19.5 – 20.5 and delivery can be made quickly and easily’, he says. micron but can also provide up to 22 micron if required. It also Jorge Tanco, Lempriere senior wool buyer comments supplies Rio Gallegos crossbred wools in the 26 – 29 micron that ‘although all greasy wool is sorted at farm, using the range. “Prolana” national policy. ‘We sort the wool again after ‘These changes will benefit not just the wool industry here, but all exports from Argentina’, says Claudio Ulrich- Managing Director Lempriere Argentina. ‘And of course the devaluation of the peso makes our wool very competitive, and a good alternative to wool from other countries.’

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ARGENTINA

purchase, as it arrives at our warehouse. This further sorting provides extra assurance that quality is maintained and customers receive exactly what was ordered.’ More than 90% of the wool grown in Argentina is exported and although the industry has resisted exporting its wool in greasy form, such exports have been increasing every year. China has been a dominant buyer, purchasing over 40% of production, followed by Germany and Italy.

‘We have linked our business in this region to our network of Lempriere offices worldwide. For many years we have worked to establish a solid reputation as a greasy wool exporter. Our expertise in scoured wool and wool tops gives us an important advantage over our competitors and colleagues around the world’. For more information about buying wool from Lempriere Argentina please contact Claudio Ulrich at culrich@lflsa.com.ar or Mariano Guerra at E: mfguerra@lflsa.com.r Cel +54911 5793 1108

tops and scoured wool dominate exports for Unilan Argentine finer wool grades are well known for their whiteness and soft touch and are in demand by manufacturers of luxury fabrics. The broader wool grades cover an ample specter of products, from hosiery to knitwear, upholstery, carpets, rugs and non-woven goods. The increased interest in Argentine wool is non-mulesed and this has added to its popularity with manufacturers of luxury products around the world.

nilan is one of the oldest Argentine wool company’s and has been exporting greasy wool, scoured and tops since 1953. ‘We have come a long way since those early days and they have not all been easy’, says Diego Jones Managing Director at Unilan. ‘There have been many changes to our economy and we have suffered through inflation, devaluation, and crises. You name it we have been through it! We have been through much but our company is still going’, he says.

Unilan management team from left Diego Jones, Alan Bialobroda, Americo Pezzini and Gaston Saban

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Argentine wool production is currently estimated at 42,000 tons, and due to a rise in greasy wool exports wool combers have been forced to reduce production from 100% capacity. ‘This has been a negative issue faced by other countries around the world and many mills have closed.

ARGENTINA

‘Nevertheless we continue to believe in this lovely and loyal fibre and we continue to invest in our mill. Last year we installed one of the most modern scouring plants available, undating some of our older machinery. It has been a good investment, we have some good results, with better productivity and quality as well as a reduction in costs ‘, says Diego Jones. ‘Our company policy is based on customer service and we offer consistent quality to all our product range’, he says. The plant incorporates facilities that include a warehouse for sorting greasy wool and a well equiped laboratory for raw material and quality control. ‘We have agents in offices around the world and this enables us to be on the ground and available to our clients whenever needed. We have a well-defined logistics service and

Unilan top making plant in Chubut

delivering on time is something we take very seriously’. We welcome enquiries from companies from around the world that are looking for a reliable supplier of greasy or scoured wool, lanolin, and wool tops from Argentina. We are interested in building long term relationships with buyers’, concludes Mr Jones. Diego Jones can be contacted at jones@unilan.com.ar

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ARGENTINA

organic wool top from Argentina gains traction ‘Argentine organic wool top and non-mulesed wool is as good as some of the world’s best’, says Marco Gallia Director of Fuhrmann Argentina. ‘Our plant in Chubut Province Argentina processes the finest Argentine wool and we have been supplying weavers around the world with high quality Argentine wool top for many years’. The company continues to be the biggest exporter of organic top from Argentina.

‘Our production is fully compliant with the requirements of today’s environmental certifications and traceability from farm gate to finished top and we expect that this demand will continue to grow.’ Fuhrmann selects its wool direct from farms that run more than 180,000 sheep and provide proof of full traceability for more than 500,000 tons of wool per year. All tops are fully certified and use non-mulesed wool. The company’s processing plant provides a local focus for a large number of Argentine fine wool growers. This facilitates good communication and a sharing of information that assists with 82

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Marco Gallia

improved wool growing practices, classing and clip preparation. ‘We have customers all around the world with particular spinning and weaving requirement. The tops that we produce are keenly sought after. If you are looking for high quality tops with excellent environmental credentials and full traceability you should talk to us’, he says. The Fuhrmann plant operates a modern wool combing machinery. It processes approximately

5 million kgs of tops per year ranging from 16 - 30 microns. 80% of production is in the 16 - 23 micron range and a further 20% is in the 24 - 30 micron range. It mostly process Argentine wool but also sources some wools from Australian and New Zealand. ‘Our fine Argentine merino wools can challenge some of the best fine wools around the world. We would be keen to tell you more’, says Mr Gallia ‘ And we welcome enquires from spinners and weavers that wish to use our quality Argentine wool’. Fuhrmann Argentina can be contacted at info@fuhrmann.com

INDUSTRY

J. Press Japan capitalises on Rambouillet Merino

Argo International, a Japanese company expert in procuring the best fibre for individual clients recently facilitated the collection of the finest US Rambouillet Merino for a well-known apparel brand in Japan. ‘We were approached by Mr. Mikito

Takeshima, Brand Director of J.Press to source a specific fibre for their menswear merchandising department. Their instruction was to find the best fibre from USA, to match the brand concept for their fine quality fabric’, says Aki Ogura CEO Argo International in Nagoya. ‘The Rambouillet is known for its superior, long staple, dense, fine wool and so it was an obvious choice’. ‘We have good contacts and can collect the best quality USA Rambouillet fine Merino and arranged for the greasy wool to be sent to India to be combed and spun by Jaya Shree. The yarn was then sent

to Japan to be woven for J. Press’s “Historical collection”’. J. Press began on the grounds of Yale University 114 years ago and has been a fixture of the campus ever since. Jacobi Press believed in quality and US Presidents, statesmen, scholars, and captains of industry continue to select J. Press for their wardrobes. ‘It takes generations of thoughtful refinement and an unwavering commitment to dress men to an Ivy League standard’, says Mr Takeshima. ‘The gentlemen that step out of our New England stores are expertly fitted in hand-crafted clothing that holds true to the “Classic American” yet remains well suited to their contemporary lifestyle’.

Huntsman grants licence for reactive super black dyes The Textile Effects division of Huntsman Corporation has entered into an agreement with Jihua Group under which Huntsman Textile Effects will grant a sole licence to Jihua Group to manufacture, to sell and market Huntsman’s patented reactive Super Black dyes in China. Huntsman and Jihua will be selling the Super Black products under their respective trade names. Huntsman has also awarded Jihua Group the right to sub-licence its patented Super Black dyes in China. Commenting on the agreement, Rohit Aggarwal, President of Huntsman Textile Effects said, “We are very

pleased to be partnering with Jihua Group on an exclusive basis in China for our patented reactive Super Black dyes. The partnership with Jihua Group will significantly enhance our competitiveness in China. “Jihua Group is a market leader in China for the manufacture of dyes and intermediates with state-of-theart facilities. With the increasing regulatory focus on environmental compliance, Jihua Group is a trusted partner who share our belief in sound environmental and ethical practices.” he says. Mr. Shao Bojin, Chairman of Jihua Group said, “Huntsman is an

industry leader known for true innovation. We are therefore extremely honoured to enter into this strategic agreement with such a global leader. This partnership will allow Jihua to complement our strengths in manufacturing and backward integration with Huntsman’s extensive global reach and technological innovation.” The agreement announced today will set the foundation for the two parties to enter into further talks for a more extensive and broader strategic cooperation. Source: Huntsman Textile Effects wool2yarnglobal 2016

FRANCE

170 years of service to the wool industry

Back row: Christine Gilbert (left) and Caroline Renard. Front row from left Luigi Costantino (trading manager), Laurent Camus, and Corinne Dupire

egard Masurel has been operating since 1846, and is one of the oldest wool trading houses in the world. Today it is still a major stakeholder in wool trading and early stage processing with branches in France, Belgium, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa. The European branches’ core business is to service the needs of customers in Europe and the Mediterranean region, whether it is greasy, scoured, carbonized or wool tops, as well as by-products and wool grease. ‘We source our products from our sister companies and reliable partners around the world. Our customer base is spread across the full spectrum of the textile industry including fashion, home textiles, carpets and rugs, and technical textiles’, says Laurent Camus, CEO of Segard Masurel’s European operations in Tourcoing, France. ‘Substantial stocks held in Europe enable our French office to quickly deliver to customers around Europe and

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neighbouring countries’. ‘Another aspect of our business in Europe is to source and export French and European wools. We buy European wool for our own topmaking, as well as for other customers. Over the years, our team has developed privileged business relationships with woolgrowers, through a network of dealers in all types of wool across Europe. These partnerships enable us to develop the quality of our products and to continually better match supply and demand’, says Laurent Camus. ‘Our knowledge of products, along with our logistics know-how allows us to satisfy the needs of our clients all over the world. Whatever your need is, our multilingual staff will be there to help you in the best possible way!’. For more information, please visit www.segardmasurel.com or contact wool@segardmasurel.com

GREASY • SLIPES • SCOURED • CARBONISED • WOOL TOPS & NOILS

AUSTRALIA

65 years and 20 million kgs later by Victor Chesky

Getting Fox & Lillie Australia directors Jonathan Lillie and James Lillie together in the same room at the same time is not an easy task - but we managed to meet up for a chat at their Melbourne office and talked about the reduction in the Australian wool clip, mulesing, and everything else in between. Fox & Lillie is one of Australia’s oldest wool trading company, founded more than 65 years ago, and is one of the biggest exporters of Australian wool. It is a diverse and global business that has steadily expanded and diversified with annual sales in excess of 20 million kilos per annum.

of types in greasy, tops, open tops , scoured and carbonised wool. In contrast to the early days of our business, our clients are now largely situated around the globe. We are a wool industry one-stop shop. Clients can source all their Australian wool requirements from us,’ he says.

James Lillie (left) and Jonathan Lillie

urrently we offer one of the most comprehensive ranges of wool types in Australia, for both the worsted and woollen industries’, says Jonathan Lillie. ‘Our father and grandfather started the business over 65 years ago exclusively operating in the carding wool sector and selling to local mills and local exporters. Over the years as opportunity and necessity arose, our business changed into a full service export business selling a complete range

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‘Both the reduction in the Australian clip, as well as a luke warm demand from wool consuming countries, is of concern’, comments James Lillie. ‘However one very important factor for all of us in the industry is that woolgrowers are enjoying strong returns on their wool enterprises. It has been a very long time since wool prices have stayed at the levels they are today, in real terms, for more than a year or two. The current good prices have lasted for about 5 years to date. We are optimistic that at these prices the decline in the size of the wool clip in Australia will stop. The only poor performer on the price front has been fine wool. We believe that as growers move from finer to coarser wool types the resulting production rebalance will improve the fortunes of fine wool growers in the future.’ The Fox and Lillie Group sources wool from selling centres throughout Australia and buys wool from the other major wool producing countries including South Africa, New Zealand,

Delivering wool is not easy We manage on time any time

Whatever the fineness, length or style, greasy, carbonised, scoured or tops,

we can deliver

FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED SINCE 1948

www.foxandlillie.com.au www.flrural.com.au Level 4, 166 Albert Road, South Melbourne, Victoria 3205, Australia Phone: + 61 3 9696 1544 • Fax: + 61 3 9696 2340 • Email: trading@foxandlillie.com.au

AUSTRALIA

and Argentina. ‘Our wool broking and direct buying operation, Fox and Lillie Rural P/L (FLR), direct accesses the farmer and enables us to provide them with a full suite of services. We utilise a large proportion of the wool collected by Fox and Lillie Rural in our export orders and continue to promote wool as an exclusive “niche fibre”, by regularly assisting our growers in making the correct production, quality and marketing decisions each season,’ James added. ‘The market knowledge and insights we gain in our export business is passed onto our wool producer clients in real time via our FLR representatives throughout Australia and our social media platforms.’ ‘And interest in non-mulesed wool is on the increase’, Jonathan Lillie comments, ‘particularly from our customers in Europe. Our direct buying enables us to source wool from farmers that have ceased mulesing. Paying a premium for nonmulesed wool will encourage more farmers to change their practice in the future. We believe that it is important that the Australian wool industry moves to completely address animal welfare issues. Consumers of the world increasingly ask for ethical and environmentally sound products. Wool must tick all those boxes.’ Fox & Lillie Rural can also organise complete processing of batches direct from farm to overseas mills with its direct mill contracts. ‘We provide our clients with real time market feedback,

direct selling opportunities and classing advice to maximise clip value’. ‘For export customers that require traceability our supply chain starts with our large number of known and trusted professional wool growers’, James Lillie continues. ‘Traceability and transparency are at the top of our agenda. The trail direct from the farm doesn’t finish until the garment is on the hanger at retail level, with a tag that certifies its unbroken journey. With our two connected businesses, FLR in wool grower services and F+L in export, we are in the unique position to offer our woolgrower and export clients alike, the capacity to link their businesses. Consumer preferences requesting more information on environmental and animal welfare issues continue to drive the desire by our export clients to know more about the source of their wool.’ The company also part owns a specialised wool processing plant in China, run in partnership with local interests. OTCL is an open top processing plant in Zhangjiagang. This 10,000 square meter factory mostly processes Australian wool but also sources wool from New Zealand, South Africa, and Europe to increase the type range available to its customers. It offers tops from 15.5 - 30 micron and from 40hm to 55hm in super color and discoloured including the option to Superwash and Basolan treat the wool.

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AUSTRALIA

reduction in Australian clip will see prices firm Shorn wool production in Australia for 2016/17 season is forecast to be 320 mkg greasy, a slight reduction on the previous year. This is expected to keep wool prices for Australian wool firm in most types according to Angus Hooke manager of the trading division at Lempriere Group. This reduction in the Australian wool clip and expected increased demand from China, as uniform tenders progress to production, will see demand in the 19.5 micron range firm.

empriere Group is one of the oldest wool companies in the world. Founded in 1857, today it is one of world’s largest wool merchant. It has offices in China, Argentina, South Africa, and New Zealand and supplies wool to some of the most famous brands including Ermenegildo Zegna and Burberry. This year Lempriere Group started production at its own wool top making mill in Bulgaria. The company has a longstanding relationship with Chinese based textile group Shandong Ru Yi who took a 51% shareholding in Lempriere wool trading division in 2012. This year Shandong Ru Yi increased its shareholding to more than 70%. Angus Hooke, wool trading manager at Lempriere in Melbourne, has confirmed it is business as usual and we are now presented with exciting opportunities to grow our current business and develop further our global sourcing. ‘We offer our customers a competitive wool buying structure to deliver them with low cost solutions for all their wool fibre needs. This structure is streamlined in buying, funding, processing and manufacturing, logistics, and administration’, says Angus Hooke. ‘We buy greasy wool as a principal and sell it to our customers either as raw wool, scoured wool, or wooltops depending on customer requirement. In Australia Lempriere Group exports around 7% of the Australian wool clip. Last season it exported over 111,557 bales, the majority being merino fleece. ‘Lempriere Group has always been known as a supplier of the finest Australian wool, in the range of 19 microns and finer, with customers that include luxury brands, but we also recognise that our customer interest has broadened to include coarser types as well’, says Angus Hooke. ‘In response we now supply wools from 15 - 24 microns and also offer crossbred wools and wools for the carding market. And we provide complete traceability and certification for each movement of the wool from grower through to the customer.’

Angus Hooke

‘We are supplying a broader range of wool types and our focus on traceability from sheep to shelf is our strength’, he says. To supply a wider range of microns Lempriere Australia buys 20% of wool privately through established farming channels around Australia. It is also a main buyer at auction. ‘Size does matter and we are consistently one of the five top buyers in Australia’, he says. ‘As one of the world’s largest wool merchants and processors our objective is to provide solutions to any customer specification’. ‘Customers more than ever are demanding to know where the raw materials in their products have come from. Our diverse buying channels that include direct from farm and auction buying we offer our customers complete traceability from sheep to shelf ’. Angus Hooke can be contacted at Angus.Hooke@Lempriere.com.au wool2yarnglobal 2016

AUSTRALIA

™

INTEGRITY SCHEME

he SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme was launched in March 2015. At the time of writing, the scheme boasts 464 farms accredited across Australia. ‘This Scheme allows our very important suppliers to stand out from the crowd – in the very best way’, says Andrew Blanch, Managing Director of New England Wool (NEW). ‘It encourages sustainable environmental and ethical production, full traceability and the highest levels animal welfare and wool quality. New England Wool has also been the main purchaser of SustainaWOOL™ branded lots, and if suitable, the purchasing percentage is in the realm of 80%. The Scheme emanated from NEW’s shareholder companies in Italy, Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico, and was designed and is now managed by NEW on their behalf. Both companies are very proud of the scheme and are always looking for ways to improve, strengthen and utilize the system to cater for the needs of the market now and in the future. ‘The critical mass of SustainaWOOL™ raw material now heading to our shareholders in Italy will allow them to use the scheme as an effective tool in their conversations with their esteemed clients’, Mr Blanch comments. ‘Now, more than ever, the discerning consumer is requiring a “story” and the ability to trace the raw material back to its source. They also want to be reassured that the wool is grown and harvested with animal welfare and environmental best practice in mind’.

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Integrity Scheme gains strength ‘The best quality wool has always been of fundamental importance to our production’, says Fabrizio Botto of Reda. ‘We buy wool from Australia because it produces the best wool in the world and we need this type of wool to continue our innovation and to grow our business. This Scheme will reinforce the Australian woolgrower’s commitment to excellence and provide a strong backdrop for our clients looking for a traceable supply chain’. It is important to note that the Scheme is not only about the welfare of the animal and care for the environment. It is also about the quality of the wool and its preparation at the highest possible standards. The SustainaWOOL™ scheme is backed up by a rigorous and independent auditing program through a partnering with the Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX) auditing team. The scheme also supports a number of quality pillars including Registered Wool classers and the Code of Practice as the minimum in wool classing standards. The scheme demands the completion of the National Wool Declaration (NWD) by all woolgrowers, identification and traceability of each animal and each bale of wool, and most importantly, respect for the animal throughout its life, including shearing, transport and other management practices.

AUSTRALIA

SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme auditor (left) with Andrew Blanch, New England Wool (centre) and Tony Gall (right), owner of accredited property “Wilsons Creek”, Uralla NSW

Davide Fontaneto of Vitale Barberis Canonico comments that ‘we believe strongly in this scheme. It is a natural progression for us to promote sustainable wool production from the most professional woolgrowers from Australia. The concept that growers look after their stock and their farms is an important story that needs to be told. The scheme is also a strong response to the needs of the consumer and our direct clients. They want quality, traceability and the highest standards of animal welfare and environmental care. SustainaWOOL™ is a solid answer to any of their concerns’. It is a requirement for farms to be accredited under SustainaWOOL™ to take part in the various initiatives offered by NEW on behalf of its shareholders. These initiatives include various contracts and grower groups formed by Reda and VBC that require SustainaWOOL™ accreditation as a prominent basis for involvement. The price of wool purchased via these contract initiatives has averaged between 10-25% above the auction market over the past 5 years of their availability. ‘Not once has the physical auction price risen to the levels offered in these contracts’, says Mr Blanch. ‘NEW and its’ shareholders

Trained auditors check, clarify and document all aspects of the SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme “Grower Checklist” on-farm

wish to offer as much financial support to the very best wool growers and these incentives and close grower interaction will continue into the new 2017/18 season. NEW also uses a higher limit at auction on all suitable lots offered from SustainaWOOL™ accredited farms’. ‘Not enough focus or energy has been placed on promoting the sustainable nature of the wool production systems in Australia, not only for high quality superfine wool but also Australian wool in general’, says Mr Blanch. “SustainaWOOL™ provides professional woolgrowers in Australia with the opportunity to show the world just how well they look after their stock and the environment”. For more details visit www.newenglandwool.com.au wool2yarnglobal 2016

AUSTRALIA

special wool blends for spinners and weavers Some 90% of the world supply of wool that is 19.5 micron and finer is grown in Australia and is extensively used in knitwear and fine quality cloth. Segard Masurel Australia has been supplying Australian wool to spinners and weavers for almost 2 decades. ‘As the merino wool clip contracts and cross bred wools increase in value we are finding that our customers rely on our ability to source the right wool for their production even more’, says Len Tenace Managing Director at Segard Masurel Australia. ‘Our customers have the best access to quality Australian merino and crossbred wool for the worsted and semiworsted and woollen sector’. Segard Masurel Australia strength lies in supply of Australian merino lambs’ wool with very low VM, as low as 0.1 VM. The company focuses on scoured types, speciality carbonised wool types between 15.5 - 17.5 micron, and special blends for specific clients. ‘While our core business is in carding wools, we have 92

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diversified into superfine fleece, and tops,’ says Len Tenace. So, if you are a spinner in the woollen sector and blending wool with cashmere fibre we can really help. We are very good at sourcing wool for special blends, and we provide batch advice and blending advice, particularly for new clients’. Segard Masurel Australia exports Australian greasy and processed products to most countries around the world. Its main markets include Europe, UK, China, Japan, and the USA. The company is part of the Segard Masurel Group with offices in France, Belgium, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa. As well as buying wool from all three major Australian wool selling centers the company has a country buying operation that allows it to source wool direct from farms. It operates a private wool brokering business through warehouses in Hamilton, Coleraine and Stawell in Victoria. ‘We can provide certainty and reliability to our customers because we understand their quality requirements and time constraints that wool processors operate under today. We provide a personal service and take the time to work with our clients, and as part of the Segard Masurel Group we service some of the world’s most famous fabric brands both large and small’. Segard Masurel Australia can be contacted by email at wool@segardmasurel.com.au

Actively Supporting Quality and Sustainable Wool Production www.newenglandwool.com.au

AUSTRALIA

Australian wool processing becomes more competitive company. Our knowledge and experience enable us to take the initiative. We don’t just sit and wait, we are proactive in procuring the right wool on behalf of our clients’. VWP offers a varied range of scoured and carbonised types to suit the requirements of spinners and weavers. From lambs to full fleece merino crossbreds and downs wool, the company can supply a product to suit any requirement.

Left to right: David Ritchie (General Manager), Myungjin (Jim) Kim (Chairman), and Paul Ferronato Senior Wool Buyer

‘The cost of labour, energy, water treatment, and transportation has risen considerably in Asia. These factors together with the quality and cost efficiency that we offer our customers gives us the edge in providing the best possible processing solutions for users of Australian wool’, says Paul Ferronato Senior Buyer at Victoria Wool Processors (VWP), the largest domestic wool processor in Australia. ‘Woolen system operators should ask their Australian greasy wool suppliers if it makes better financial sense to import wool carbonised in Australia rather than greasy wool. We believe it does’, says David Ritchie General Manager at VWP. ‘The lower value of the Australian dollar has had a significant impact on cost effectiveness for wool processing in Australia. Early stage wool processing is more competitive in Australia today than it has been for a long time, and this is why we have been working 7 days a week.’ VWP core business is processing carbonised and scoured Australian wool and this has been its focus for over 30 years. It exports this processed wool worldwide with a particular emphasis on markets in Europe and Asia, particularly in Korea and Japan. Environmental credentials and certifications are becoming more important, particularly for European yarn and fabric manufacturers. ‘Wool processing in Australia delivers the best results in environmental credentials and at the best possible price’, says Paul Ferronato. ‘We consult with each of our clients before buying the most appropriate wool for their particular needs, and know what type of wool will process better on their machinery, advising them accordingly. VWP’s is more than just a commission wool processing 94

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Wool buyers at VWP operate in all wool centres in Australia and offers a full commission scouring or carbonising service tailored to each customer, and forward and prompt shipping and logistic services to all parts of the world. The company employs Chinese, Korean, Italian, Spanish and Vietnamese speakers, making communication easy for its customers in any part of the world, complementing existing agents based in Europe and Asia. ‘VWP processed wool is not blended with wool from any other country. It is 100% Australian wool’, says Paul Ferronato. ‘Wool processed by us in Australia also ensures that processing waste stays in Australia and is not a cost or pollutant problem to the buyer’. ‘Our expertise and our advanced carbonising plant enable us to carbonise from the finest merino wool to the coarsest downs wool. Using clean Australian water combined with the latest in processing technology, our wools are well known for cleanliness, strength and consistency’, says Paul Ferronato. ‘We can work directly with spinners to develop specific types most suited to their needs’. Paul Ferronato can be contacted on PaulF@vwp.com.au

AUSTRALIA

understanding each customer is the key

he slowing economy in China, the world’s second largest economy, is not all gloom and doom for us’, says Ken Welsh of Techwool Trading, one of the largest exporters of Australian greasy wool. ‘Europe, and in particular Eastern Europe, as well as India, are well placed to provide alternative processing. Processing companies in these countries are much closer to the customer base, have a well educated labour force, and have experience in working with wool’, he says. ‘Europe is familiar territory for us. We have proven over many years that we can service the European market, and we know how to do this within traditional European wool types’. ‘We understand the different requirements that exist for companies processing wool in China, India, and Europe as these are our main

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Ken Welsh (India) Brendon Miller (Europe)

destinations’. ‘Our facilities all over the country provide for a well-run operation with good stocks and fast logistics and handling’, says Ken Welsh. ‘We export in excess of 300,000 bales each year and supply all standard types from fine to medium Merino fleece wools, crossbred fleece, and blend types as well as skirting and carding types’. TWT traditionally values greasy wool by style, top length, tensile strength, and background colour. TWT will source non-mulesed wool and provide a certificate of origin for customers in Europe that require this type of wool and level of traceability. TWT supplies wool to over 100 combing, carding and carbonizing mills worldwide. ‘Some clients buy 2 3 containers each year, while some will buy this quantity every month. The strength of our company is that we look after all our customers, big and small’, says Ken Welsh.

‘We travel regularly to advise customers anywhere in the world regarding the wools best suited to their production, and in particular, if there are cheaper wool types that can perform the same or better to fulfil their production needs we can advise accordingly. This hands-on approach ensures we provide uniform deliveries of wool that will process consistently time after time. ‘We purchase direct from the farm and at auction and guarantee consistent supply from Australia’s best wool clips all year round. Our company team has extensive and traditional knowledge in wool classing at the heart of Australia’s wool supply and is well equipped to expertly match types and blends to individual processing needs, ‘he concludes. For more information please contact Ken Welsh or Brendon Miller at exports@techwool.com.au

AUSTRALIA

Wen Qingnan (left) and farm manager Matt Hodge

Sheep farm in Yenodon

Tianyu experiment ‘We must try to generate growth in both wool production and consumer demand for woollen products’, says Mr Qingnan Wen, Chairman of Tianyu, one of the biggest top makers in the world. Mr Wen maintains that the industry faces two main issues - it must work harder to create a more favourable view of wool as a preferred fibre to the retail consumer, and this preference must be established for current and future fashion trends. The second issue, he further maintains, is that wool growing must be profitable to ensure that farmers stay in wool production, and increase production. So, Mr Wen is putting his money where his mouth is and using his sheep farm in Victoria to demonstrate that wool growing can still be a profitable business, and that the promotion of wool fibre is a necessary follow on. Our sheep farm in Yenodon, between Ballarat and Melbourne, is ideal for us to run this experiment, and if successful, we hope it will be copied by other farms in Australia. We aim to improve pasture quality and sheep management, particularly at lambing season. We are investing in better pastures and better sheep management on the one hand, and together with a local tourist operator, we plan to roll out activities promoting wool to Chinese tourists visiting Australia’. Mr Wen believes that the fatality rate is too high during the lambing season and is a barrier to greater profitability. The survival rate in Australia is 85%, in China it is an average of 95%. ‘If the weather is bad, there is little shelter we need to improve survival rate by providing more care and greater individual attention to the ewes during the lambing season. We hope to significantly reduce lamb mortality’, he says. He also notes that the soil has changed in the last 50-100 years, and that no improvement has been made to pastures, 98

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and he believes that the grass is no longer sufficiently nutritious, and this affects the quality of wool that is grown. ‘If the land does not naturally recover it needs to be looked after’, says Mr Wen. ‘Improvement to both land and grass must be made at the same time. This means that while we re-soil and fertilize the pastures, we must also improve grow grass suitable for dry conditions’. In the last 12 months farming pastures at the Yenodon farm have been re-soiled and newly fertilised, and a study into the most suitable grass fit for the climate is being investigated to achieve better feeding pastures. Mr Wen believes that if the implementation of these farming practices will result in better quality wool and profitability other farmers will take note. He plans to run seminars and invite neighbouring farms with a view to sharing with them his new farming practices. ‘Marketing and promotion can be part of the farm experience’, says Mr Wen. ‘Five jumbo jets land into Melbourne from China every day and we are setting up a joint venture with a local tourist organisation to promote farm excursions for Chinese tourists to visit our farm and see for themselves the beauty and benefits of wool. This visit would be free to the 80, 000 visitors we expect will come through our property every year.’ ‘If only 10% of these Chinese tourists fall in love with wool, and on their return to China, tell their friends, we will make a significant impact’, he says. ‘We aim to educate the China consumer about wool - its versatility in fabric for summer and winter, and need not be expensive. The woolgrower and retailer may be at different ends of the supply chain, but a more cohesive approach should be taken by all in the wool chain, and Mr Wen’s new venture aims to do just that.

CHINA

Tianyu - looking forward The wool industry in China is finding it tough. The woollen sector is not doing well, and as demand for double-faced fabric has come to an end, this has put additional pressure on textile manufacturers. However, according to Mr Wen Chairman at Tianyu ‘we expect the worsted sector to improve due to forthcoming government uniform tenders and for Australian wool prices to be firm because of a shortage of supply. I asked Mr Wen about where he sees wool production and demand in 2017. by Victor Chesky

‘This squeeze on wool production is a concern. However, with demand still low, the smaller production is not yet affecting prices, and is not yet being felt through the chain’, says Mr Wen. ‘We expect wool prices to be firm in 2017 because of this low production’. Tianyu is the biggest wool industrial group company in China. Its business covers greasy wool import, storage, wool scouring, wool combing, wool top treatment, wool tops sales and export. It employs 700 people and 80% of the wools it processes are from Australia. The 100

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company has a scouring capacity of 80,000 100,000 tons each year, 35,000 is for its own tops, - the balance is on commission for other mills. Topmaking accounts for 18,000 - 21,000 tons each year - mostly 21 micron and below, with Superwashing production at 5000 tons per year. The company is working on chlorine free treatments and looking to introduce this very soon. The company was one of the first in China to implement a wastewater treatment facility and today is one of the few companies in

CHINA

China to comply with all environmental laws. ‘Our environmental laws in China are stricter than they are in Italy’, comments Mr Wen. ‘We have invested RMB$100 million in environmental protection projects. ‘There are many very good reasons why companies around the world buy our tops’, says Mr. Wen. ‘Our management team is young, passionate, and energetic. We supply excellent quality wool top to high-end European brands’, he says. Tianyu can produce tops from 14.5 - 22.5 microns. ‘Our customers know that when they give us any type of specification and we can make it for them. We have the infrastructure and expertise to produce according to any specification for the international market. Our customers also appreciate that we have stock available, all year around, for delivery on demand. There are no delays in shipment’. Mr Wen comments that demand for finer micron tops is slowly increasing both on the domestic Chinese market and internationally. Tianyu production is split between 45% for domestic consumption and 55% for export. The future at Tianyu is clear to Mr Wen. ‘Our people are our most valued asset. We focus on our work place ethics and skills. Training has always been an important aspect of our business and we pay particular attention to skills training, team building and company culture building. This, and our investment in the latest plant machinery will ensure that we continue to be an industry leader’, concludes Mr. Wen. For more information about woollen products offered by Tianyu www.tianyu-wool.com E info@tianyu-wool.com.

IWTO wool facts... The wool industry is: • Producing around 2,1 million tons of wool per year • Taking care of more than 1 billion sheep around the world, with the highest focus on animal welfare • 78% of the world wool production is taking place in IWTO member countries • There is almost 816,000 tons of fabric (wool and other wool blends) produced yearly by the global wool industry, of which 92% is produced in IWTO member countries

The wool industry is: • Over 900,000 tons of raw wool (greasy, scoured, carbonised) trade yearly, with IWTO members accounting for 87 % • The value of raw wool exports (greasy, scoured, carbonised) from IWTO members is around US$ 2.5 billion yearly (source : Woolmark) • The value of wool tops exported from IWTO Countries is around US$ 1.2 billion yearly (source: Woolmark) • 92% of the world production of wool tops is manufactured in IWTO member countries • Over 2 million tons of yarn (wool and other fibres) produced in the world yearly, of which IWTO Member Countries account for 72 % • 90% of all worldwide fabrics containing wool are produced in IWTO member countries • The total retail value of sales of wool products is around US$80 billion yearly (source : Woolmark) • IWTO is representing an industry with more than 200,000 commercial farms and several million small-hold farms worldwide, and more than 4,000 wool & textile manufacturing companies.

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investment in latest technology pays off for china top maker Installation of new textile machinery is paying off for one of the biggest topmakers in China. According to Mr Shao Wei Yang, Director at Zhejiang Red Sun Wool & Textile Co ‘the introduction of new machinery has brought greater stability in the quality of our tops and has enabled us to increase capacity to 18,000 tons per year.’

ed Sun now produces a greater variety of types for worsted, semi-worsted, Basolan and open-tops, mostly in 19.5 microns.

‘Our customers are now able to buy a wider variety of wool tops from us and do not need to source it from anywhere else. It is more economical, more convenient, and our customers find it more practical than shopping around. Red Sun offers wool tops of various specifications ranging from 15.5 to 32.0 microns including nonmulesing wool tops. Its product range includes

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open tops, broken tops, sliver tops, Superwash & Soft Luster tops, Basolan tops, mohair tops, Lincoln tops, and more, suitable for high-class worsted, semi-worsted and woolen textiles manufacturers. It also supplies noils and Lanolin all year around. Red Sun operates an advanced testing centre that is equipped with the latest testing and measuring instruments such as ALMETER fibre length instrument, Sirolan-Laserscan and a Swiss-made Uster yarn evenness tester.

CHINA

Superwash line kept busy with demand from customers in China and Europe

‘Very few Chinese mills have been upgrading to new textile machinery, and even fewer have been doing it as quickly as Red Sun’, he says. ‘We have invested in a new scouring line, tailor made for our own production, as well a as new NSC ERA machines and GC wool gill boxes.’ ‘This machinery upgrade will ensure that our customers receive consistent quality in the many types of top we offer. Large batches will be of consistent quality throughout our production process’, Mr Shao Wei Yang . As well as new ERA and GC machinery Red Sun operates an OCTIR (3.5M) fully-automatic wool comber from Italy, Thibeau (3.5M) wool comber from France and world-leading GC14, GC15 wool gill boxes and PB32, PB33 combers, and an Italy-made OMMI fully automatic teaser system, Tecnomeccanica combined wool storage system and Superwash & Soft Luster wool tops system manufactured by CMT, as well as a Basolan production line and operate highly efficient Lanolin collecting system.

Mr Shao Wei Yang with new GC gills installed last year

Red Sun also operates the most advanced water treatment plant in China and is have ISO 9001 Quality Management System Certification and ISO14000 Environment Management Certification. ‘A sustainable future is a high priority for us’, says Mr Shao Wei Yang. ‘We produce excellent tops with an eye to environmental considerations. We are among the world’s best in energy saving, environmental protection, and production efficiency.’ ‘Our investment in the most advanced machinery, together with the most skilled and creative management team, with unmatched passion for wool, enables us to offer the most suitable wool to our customers’, says Mr Yang. ‘We have great flexibility in our supply and we welcome contact with companies that are interested in doing business with us’. For further information about the variety of products available from Red Sun please contact Vivian Huang at import-sfy@redsunwool. com or Nick Chen at cyg@redsunwool.com www.redsunwool.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

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the people who make it happen

The first time I attended a Nanjing Wool Market Conference in the early 2000’s there were some 150 attendees including only a handful from outside of China. Today the numbers have swelled to over 600 delegates and over 100 of these are international delegates. Under the Chairmanship of Madam Yang and General Manager Mr Jian Chen the conference has moved from domestic Chinese industry issues to become a fully international conference with presentations and participation from industry leaders worldwide. by Victor Chesky

WM is known to most wool importers to China as their first port of call for advice and assistance in doing business in China. NWM membership includes woolgrower cooperatives, traders, primary processors, and spinners of wool, and allied fibres all over China, as well as foreign membership.

planning to establish new relationships or planning to set up joint ventures with companies in China are welcome to consult us at NWM or China Wool Textile Association (CWTA)’, says Madam Yang. We are always pleased to assist any company that wishes to do business with our members.’

Today NWM is part of the SDIC, a much larger organisation that is involved in trading in wool, cotton, timber, steel, and chemicals and many other commodities. In addition to hosting the NWM Conference, NWM is responsible for providing training to the early wool processing industry in China. It works closely with AWI, AWEX, and AWTA in training wool classers, wool shearers, and providing educational resources to local wool growers.

‘We also welcome international delegates to our annual conference’, says Madam Yang. ‘It is a major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China and is attended by executives of all major Chinese wool buying and processing companies’. ‘The conference provides an excellent opportunity for all international delegates to meet with China’s biggest wool buyers, all in one place. It also offers exhibition space for companies wishing to exhibit their products. The Conference is open to delegates from all around the world. Speakers at the Conference offer insight into the China wool industry and its future plans. It offers an excellent opportunity for delegates to mix with current and new clients’, she says.

It also plays an integral liaison role with the international wool community and chairs the Joint China Australia Wool Working Group and Joint New Zealand China Wool Working Group. It is also involved in arbitration and trade dispute settlements, and offers financial services including Bills of Exchange and Letters of Credit. ‘Foreign companies 104

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To contact Nanjing Wool Market njwoolmarket@163.com

UNITED KINGDOM

n total contrast with the previous eighteen months the 2015-16 selling season, which finished in June 2016, saw very volatile market conditions in both clearances at auction and prices achieved. This was largely driven by currency fluctuations of the ÂŁ, Euro and US$, coupled with the continued slowdown in economic activity in China, our major export market. In particular between June and September last year the NZ$ depreciated by 18% against the US$, which resulted in New Zealand wool being significantly cheaper in China and this led to a similar percentage reduction in our auction price. The effect of this, together with the continued subdued demand for carpets within the UK, resulted in a near 15% reduction in the average sales auction price, as compared with the previous season. Within this overall change we continue to have two distinct markets. Comparatively, the fine and medium wools have been selling well on the back of continued interest within the knitting market, whereas for the carpet wools the market it is more difficult, especially within the UK, with retailers imposing very tight price points and with the increasing use of polypropylene. The year to 30 April 2016 saw the clip handled by the BWMB marginally increase to nearly 30mkg and we would anticipate that in the near future it will remain at these levels. As previously reported, we have enhanced our quality control and assurance processes to ensure that our buyers have confidence in the

then we will roll it out to cover other sectors and other markets.

product we are presenting at auction, and we will extend that assurance along the wool pipeline, to the manufacturing and retail sector, by introducing Platinum and Gold certification of British Wool products giving consumers the knowledge that these products contain 100% and 80% British Wool respectively. In respect of the Boardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s marketing initiatives, we still strongly support the Campaign for Wool (CfW). The CfW is a generic wool campaign; its aim is to raise awareness amongst consumers about the unique, natural and sustainable benefits offered by wool. Encouraging collaboration between an international community of woolgrowers, major fashion designers, retailers, manufacturers, artisans and interior designers, the Campaign has been instrumental in educating consumers about the versatility of wool, and driven by the widespread media coverage and retail promotion, has created an increased demand for wool products. In March 2016 we introduced a new internet site - woolretailer. com to allow consumers to find retailers within their area selling wool products. Initially this will be targeted at carpet retailers within the UK and

What will the 2016-17 season be like for the BWMB? We start the new season with minimal stock and, therefore, prices and auction clearances will reflect changes in demand conditions. Trading positions will initially be dominated by the decision on BREXIT. In the short to medium term wool and the entire fibre supply chain should benefit from a weaker currency, one that was arguably too strong for the export community. Now the BREXIT decision has been made, we, as an industry, have to move forward and capitalise on the positive outcomes, of which I am certain there will always be some. Finally, this is my last report as CEO of the BWMB, a position I have held for the last 23 years. May I take this opportunity to thank all the many contacts I have within the industry for your friendship, help and support. My successor is Joe Farren, an outsider to the industry from a business consulting and investment background. He is planning on visiting first hand as many participants in the industry as possible, both at home and abroad, and I am sure you will make him as welcome as you have me. One final observation - wool now accounts for about 1% of global fibre consumption and, if the industry is to prosper in the future, all sectors of the industry producers, processors, manufacturers and retailers have to work together. It is more essential now than it has ever been. Ian Hartley BWMB wool2yarnglobal 2016

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UNITED KINGDOM new british wool labels promote unique performance of british wool The British Wool Marketing Board is owned by the sheep farmers of the UK and sits between the wool producer and the textile industry providing British wool for sale by auction across the year and promoting it through its Shepherd’s Crook licensee programme.

i Tim Booth

By Bridgette Kelly

n July this year, the British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) launched its Premium Label Partnership which heralded the arrival of the new Gold Label and includes the pre-existing Platinum Label. This paves the way for manufacturers and brands to clearly highlight higher levels of British Wool within products and promote quality and origin stories. British Wool has historically used its Blue label on product and licensed British Wool partners internationally can use the iconic sign of British sheep farmers - the Shepherd’s Crook - to highlight that within the wool content there is at least 50 percent of British Wool. This must be grown on British sheep breeds in the United Kingdom. Many of these partners are actually using more than that according to Tim Booth, marketing manager of the BWMB. The new Gold label will define a level of 70% of the wool blend is British Wool and the Platinum defines 100% of the wool is British Wool. These two labels will rest under the new Premium Label Partnership - which effectively creates an audit ring around the product’s wool chain detailing supply partners from scouring through to finished product. “We have had growing interest from textile manufacturers for a higher specification label that promotes quality fibre content.” Booth said, adding, “We feel that these new labels and the Premium Label Partnership will encourage greater interest in the way manufacturers decide on yarns and fibres as the Gold and Platinum labels allow them to market the fibre content as part of its justifiable value and

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quality credibility. British Wool is recognised across the world for having the most varied and versatile wool clip - there are over sixty different breeds. Also it is particularly regarded for its unique strength and is often used in smaller quantities within the blends of softer, less robust wools to provide the crispness and structure that these wools cannot provide. Whilst not recognised on the product - it is often used in many carpet and fabric blends in this way and for this reason. Making decisions on the type of wool or wool blend used is a critical decision for spinners and manufacturers; it affects the texture, the product’s price and its ultimate performance. British Wool grown on breeds in the UK is the main wool choice in woven carpet for contract and commercial ranges - such as those found in casinos and hotels as it has a natural bounceback caused by its crimp and robust bulk which persistently resists pressure. This long lasting appearance retention, good structure in products such as upholstery, bedding and mattresses are primary reasons the industry choose British Wool. But they also look to British Wool for its natural colour ways that can be used in undyed products - popular with the rising eco-agenda. “We want to work with the textile industry - we know that our fibre and its unique attributes can make a critical difference to their products. These new labels are there for the industry to help support their quality control and to market the added value that British Wool makes to the product and to the end consumer.” Find out more at britishwool.org.uk

BRITISH WOOLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PREMIUM L A B E L PA R T N E R S H I P

70% or more British Wool

100% British Wool

The British Wool Premium Label Partnership Manufacturers that wish to define a higher level of British Wool content within their product can now apply to the BWMB for premium label partnership using the new gold and platinum labels.

Choose Quality... A higher level of British Wool content within the product will allow the unique fibre characteristics that are found in British Wool from British sheep breeds to perform to optimum levels.

GREAT... British Wool www.britishwool.org.uk marketing@britishwool.org.uk @britishwool British Wool Marketing Board Pinterest.com/Britishwool

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British wool grading system made easy for buyers The British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) grades wool to internationally recognised standards, the purpose of which is to ultimately add value. The United Kingdom is unique in that it has more native breeds of sheep within its shores than any other country in the world. In addition to this there are numerous cross breeds and continental breeds. The six main grading categories are fine wool, medium wool, cross wool, lustre wool, hill wool, and mountain wool.

he Wool graders employed throughout BWMB depots are all highly skilled having firstundertaken a five year apprenticeship. Each individual fleece is graded into ‘types’ rather than specific breeds, to ensure that the global markets are provided with fleeces possessing the unique characteristics required to suit the end users requirements. ‘We will start 2016/17 selling season in July with virtually no stock’, says Mark Powell Chief Operating Officer. ‘Since joining

Mark Powell

annually. BWMB has overseen the training of over 1,000 shearers each year for the past five years and collects wool from more than 40,000 producers. Its national network handles 30 million kgs of wool at 11 grading depots.

BWMB takes responsibility for any issues with wool packed still in its original packaging and labelling. Wool packed in non BWMB packaging is the full responsibility of the wool merchant.

BWMB in 2000 the entire selling system has been developed and computerised. With the recent 10% to 15% drop in the value of £ Sterling against US$, British wool represents exceptional value at the moment and is, of course, still of the highest quality. ‘Our excellent clip presentation certificate is part of our quality control process and recognises, in particular, the cleanliness of the wool, standard of fleece rolling and overall presentation of the wool from farm to depot inwell packed containers’, he says. The Board will handle and auction separately wool from farms with organic status. However, we have been advised by the Soil Association that the Board must receive farm organic status certificates

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The sales auction system provides the only sales venue. There are usually 18 auctions per year and the system is fully computerised. There are no private sales and all merchants and customers are treated equally. Quality control ensures that every fleece is individually graded to international standards and tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe for independent certification. It should be noted that BWMB does not engage in selling wooldirect so all sales of UK wool are conducted through registered merchants and wool deliveries are their responsibility.

UNITED KINGDOM

WOOL PRICE SCHEDULE CATEGORIES FINE WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Charollais, Clun Forest, Dorset, Hampshire, Shropshire, Southdown, Suffolk and their crosses. Grade numbers range from 203 to 291 MEDIUM WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Beltex, Bleu du Maine, Border Leicester, Halfbred Scotch/Welsh, Lleyn, Romney, Texel and their crosses. Grade numbers range from 305 to 399 CROSS WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Masham, Mule, Scottish Greyface and their crosses. Grade numbers range from 403 to 491 LUSTRE WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Bluefaced Leicester, Devon & Cornwall Longwool, Whiteface/Greyface Dartmoor, Lincoln/Leicester Longwool, Teeswater, Wensleydale and their crosses. Grade numbers range from 503 to 592 HILL WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Cheviot, Exmoor Horn, Hill Radnor, Lonk, Shetland, Beulah/Welsh Hill Speckled Face and their crosses. Grade numbers range from 600 to 699 MOUNTAIN WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Blackface, Dalesbred, Rough Fell, Swaledale, Welsh Mountain and their crosses. Grade numbers range from 707 to 791

New CEO for British Wool Marketing Board

he British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) has appointed a new Chief Executive Officer. Joe Farren, 44, from Cawood in North Yorkshire officially took over the reins at the Board on Wednesday 1st June following the retirement of Ian Hartley who has been leading the organisation for the last 22 years. The BWMB is the UK’s last remaining agricultural commodity board, making the wool sector unique. Representing over 40,000 producers, the Board offers real strength in the global market place, giving producers a voice that in turn allows them to maximise the value of their wool. A graduate of Balliol College, Oxford in Modern Languages and English, Joe is also a qualified barrister. He spent the first part of his career in the City advising on company mergers and acquisitions. In 2004 Joe joined SIG Plc, the FTSE 250 Yorkshire headquartered multinational distributor of building and home improvement products, where he was Head of UK and Ireland Business Development. From 2013, he was a director with LDC, the private equity arm of Lloyds Bank. He is part of a farming family and Joe and his wife have farms in Yorkshire and Aberdeenshire. Ian Buchanan, Chairman, BWMB said, “We welcome Joe to the

BWMB in this high profile and important position at a crucial time not only in agriculture but also in the wool sector. We look forward to working with Joe, ensuring we continue to serve the best interests of our producers and in maximising the value of their wool. On behalf of UK wool producers I also thank Ian Hartley for his hard work, commitment and contribution to the BWMB and the wool industry and wish him well for a long and happy retirement”. Joe Farren commented, “I am delighted to have joined the BWMB. I am determined the Board will continue its good service to wool producers. The Board will also seek to continuously improve the efficiency with which it handles their wool, to manage the auction process effectively so as to maximise prices for producers and to promote wool strongly on the global stage as the preeminent fibre, being aesthetically attractive, high performance and environmentally friendly.” wool2yarnglobal 2016

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Wool - still a core business Buying and selling wool should be a simple and transparent process for both buyer and seller,’ says Jo Dawson Chairman of H. Dawson Wool (HDW). ‘This has been our core business for over 128 years and continues to be so’. H. Dawson Wool is a central player in more than just wool trading, it is also involved in fibre product innovation, technical development, sustainability, and traceability’. I caught up with Jo Dawson, and Managing Director Graham Duffield, at their head office in Bradford and asked them about H. Dawson’s focus on traceability and transparent selling. by Victor Chesky

‘Traceability is a major consideration for buyers today’, says Jo Dawson. ‘We know that buyers, particularly in the fashion and outdoor clothing sector, must be able to demonstrate traceability of the raw material they use. At H. Dawson Wool we have straightforward and transparent relationships with growers and suppliers to ensure that this traceability is evident in every link of the chain.’ The company is supported by offices in China, New Zealand, Italy, India, and South Africa that are strategically located to ensure a smooth and cost effective supply of fibre of any origin. This international network provides for the best and most consistent global communication about market conditions between the company trading team and its customer base. ‘We offer our customers the most flexible and appropriate natural fibre solutions at prices that give them true 110

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value when processed into yarn and fabric. Our long history in wool trading and the breadth of wool knowledge and skills within our team enable us to source wool from an unparallel global supply base, matching our clients requirements for the wool most suitable to them’. ‘We add value to wool and to the wool industry as a leading supplier of wool as an eco product. We offer our customers the most flexible and appropriate natural fibre solutions at prices that give them true value when processed into yarn and fabric’, says Mr Dawson. The company sources wool from over 40 countries with a customer base in over 50 international destinations. It has a diverse customer base with manufacturers of carpets, apparel, furnishings, performance wear, and building products. According to Graham ‘sourcing the right wool at the right price, with excellent delivery options has placed us as a supplier of choice to many buyers. This is what sets us apart from many other companies in the wool industry’. ‘We are not just a supplier of wool; we are innovators and problem solvers. If a customer is looking for a particular blend we will create this for their particular requirement’, he says. ‘We understand the current trends that affect demand for particular wool types and our experienced traders and sourcing teams can source the right wool for the right product, 365 days a year.’ Graham Duffield can be contacted at graham.duffield@hdawson.co.uk

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economy of scale and security of supply

Tim Holgate (left) and Daniel Isbecque

he last wool season saw high clearance rates at the auction floor for British wool throughout the year. It has been a challenging year with the slowdown in China and the currency fluctuations in the Euro and US dollar. Not withstanding this, Curtis Wool Direct has managed to maintain its activity by being attentive to its customers and meeting their expectations, according to Joint Managing Director, Tim Holgate. ‘Our company buys some 50% of the British clip each year. We also source wool from selected farms all over Europe’, he says. ‘We are the biggest exporter of UK wool and size does matter. As wool is a seasonal industry some smaller merchants may not always have sufficient stock to supply all year around. We do have stock on hand for our customers all year round, and can

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always deliver quickly, competitively, and with consistent high quality. ‘We are big enough to supply any order, and yet we can still offer a very personal service to our customers big and small. Under one roof we run a seamless operation that works well as an integrated system for both us and our customers,’ says Mr Holgate. Curtis Wool Direct is a registered buyer and licensee of The British Wool Marketing Board. It specialises in exporting and processing British, Irish, Norwegian, European, New Zealand, and Real Shetland Wools. It supplies wool to all parts of the textile industry worldwide including carpet, hosiery, cloth, hand and machine knitting, bedding and the non-woven sector.

Suppliers of the world’s premier wools Wool Scourers and Exporters of all types of British, New Zealand, Norwegian, Real Shetland and all other origin Wools Suppliers of all types of shrink resist wool and tops Speciality Topmaker

Lawrence House, Dowley Gap Business Park, Bingley BD16 1WA Tel: +44 (0)1274 563444 Fax: +44 (0)1274 518720 daniel@curtiswool.co.uk tim@curtiswool.co.uk martin@curtiswool.co.uk simon@curtiswool.co.uk wools@curtiswool.co.uk

www.curtiswooldirect.co.uk

British Wool Sales 2015/16 BW1 BW2 BW3 BW4 BW23 BW5 BW24 BW6 BW25 BW7 BW26 BW27 BW8 BW28 BW9 BW29 BW10 BW30 BW11 BW12 BW13 BW14

7th July 28th July 18th August 1st September 20th September 2016 22nd September 4th October 2016 October 2016 18th6th October October2016 8th 20th November 22nd November 2016 10th November 13th24th December 2016 November 10th January 2017 15th December 24th January 2017 12th January 26th January 16th February 1st March

2015 BW15 2015 BW16 2015 BW17 BW18 2015 BW31 14th February BW19 2015 BW32 7th March BW20 201528th March BW33 201511th AprilBW21 BW34 BW35 20159th May BW22 BW36 20156th June BW23 BW37 4th July BW24 2015 BW38 25th July BW25 2016 BW26 2016 BW27 2016 BW28 2016

15th March 2016 12th April 2016 10th May 2016 7th June 2016 2017 BW39 15th August 2017 5th July 2016 2017 BW40 5th September 2017 20162017 201726th July BW41 19th September 201716th August BW42 3rd October 20162017 20176th September BW43 17th October20162017 201720th September BW44 7th November 20162017 2017 BW45 21st November 2017 4th October 2016 2017 BW46 12th December 2017 18th October 2016 8th November 2016 22nd November 2016 13th December 2016

British Wool Sales 2016/17

Suppliers of the worlds premier wools Lawrence House, Dowley Gap Business Park, Bingley BD16 1WA Wool Scourers & Exporters of all types of British, New Zealand, Tel: +44 (0)1274 563444 • Fax: +44 (0)1274 518720 Norwegian, Real Shetland and all other origin Wools. Speciality Topmaker. daniel@curtiswool.co.uk • tim@curtiswool.co.uk • wools@curtiswool.co.uk Suppliers of allwww.curtiswooldirect.co.uk types of shrink resist wool and tops. Wool Carpets rpets #Naturally aturally GLOBAL TESTING WOOL CARPET FOCUS GROUP

UNITED KINGDOM

CWD markets its own brands - Real Shetland, Viking Wool from Norway, and is a supporter of the recently formed Wool Carpet Focus Group. ‘We are also involved in promoting wool further down the supply chain’ says Mr Isbecque. ‘We have supported the Campaign for Wool since it was first launched in 2010 with HRH Prince Charles as Patron.’ ‘Our customers worldwide rely on us as a one stop shop for all raw materials from greasy wool and scoured wool to combed tops from 16 - 40 micron and we continue to source new supply lines.”

David Gisbourne managing director Haworth Scouring Company

‘There has been very strong demand for European wools and British wools across the wide range of types offered this last season’, says Tim Holgate. As wool production continues to decrease worldwide he sees continued volatility in the markets. CWD offers long term fixed price agreements to help customers manage these fluctuating prices. ‘Our recent acquisition of Laurence Pierce (Wool Merchants) in Ireland will ensure that our Irish wool supply is secure, and that our customers will benefit from our ability to supply high quality Irish wool throughout the year, “ says Daniel Isbecque, Joint Managing Director. ‘We already buy more than half the total British wool clip via British Wool Marketing Board auctions and this latest acquisition will also make us one of the largest suppliers of wool from Ireland’. 114

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CWD’s greasy wool and scoured wool processing facilities at Haworth Scouring (HSC) and Haworth Combing Company operate just outside Bradford in the UK. HSC has a weekly capacity to scour 1,000,000 kgs of wool and has continued to invest regularly in scouring equipment that can scour wool from any origins. It also operates a modern effluent treatment facility. ‘Owning and operating our own scouring facility provides control over quality and direct management of all supply logistics, an essential requirement which enables us to deliver a very diverse range of quality wool types on time, even at short notice, to customers worldwide,’ says Daniel Isbecque. CWD invests heavily in environmental performance within it scouring and combing operation. ‘All our processed wool is Enco Certified, an environmental quality mark recognised by manufacturers of apparel, bedding, carpet, and technical textiles.’ Haworth Scouring Co and Haworth Combing Co are both accredited ISO 9001 Quality Management System, ISO4001 Environmental Management System and ISO5000 Energy Management System, and also process wool under Soil Association and GOTS accreditation. Curtis Wool Direct Limited tim@curtiswool.co.uk; daniel@curtiswool.co.uk

UNITED KINGDOM

Irish wool gains international profile Irish wool company Laurence Pierce Wool Merchants joined Curtis Wool Direct (CWD), based in Bradford in 2015. ‘This recent acquisition’, says Daniel Isbecque, Joint Managing Director at CWD ‘has complemented and expanded the group’s wool processing and trading activities very well, strengthening the group’s offer to a wider range of customers’.

customers receive only the highest quality Irish wool. Based in Rathdrum, the business is ideally located to collect the best wools and prepare them efficiently and competitively for the international market, with China being a dominant buyer of its wool. The company now handles some four million kilograms of wool each year and this figure is expected to rise with the benefits coming from its affiliation to CWD.

Originally established in the mid 1800’s Laurence Pierce specialises in the sourcing, classification, sorting and sale of high quality Irish fleece wools. Over many years, the company has developed close relationships with woolgrowers across Ireland, buying wool direct from the farm gate and operating with a highly efficient network of collectors. Under the continued management of Vincent Pierce, the company’s team of highly experienced wool classers and sorters ensure that their

Tim Holgate, joint managing director of CWD commented that, ‘the Laurence Pierce business enhances our ability to provide our wool traders access to sufficient raw material to keep our customers around the world supplied with the highest quality product. We have a reputation for delivering the right quality of wool and combed tops at the right time and at the right price. We will benefit even more from economies of scale that this acquisition brings and we expect to add to our competitive competence in the world markets.’

‘Today, Irish wool is found in many different mediums. From carpets to clothing, accessories to craftwork, knitting yarn to bedding and we continue to market Irish wool for a variety of applications’.

For more information please contact Vincent Pierce at vincent@wool.ie; Daniel Isbecque at daniel@curtiswool.co.uk; Tim Holgate at tim@curtiswool.co.uk

30 years at BWMB - Ian Hartley retires by Victor Chesky

Ian Hartley, CEO at British Wool Marketing Board, has been threatening to retire for some time now and those in the industry that know him have been pleased that his going has taken such a long time.

promotional role within the industry and has been an active member in many of its activities in the UK and at international events.

Ian was responsible for the independent wool trading subsidiaries of the BWMB and joined the Board as Deputy Managing Director in 1991, becoming Managing Director in 1995, and then CEO. He is an economics graduate and Chartered Accountant, with a background in the textile industry.

Ian was responsible for the setting up of Wool Testing Authority (Europe) Limited and, until his retirement, has been overseeing its operation. Wool conferences will never be the same. His ready humour, knowledge of the industry and personal charm will be missed by the many that have come to know him over the years.

BWMB is a founding member of the Campaign for Wool and Ian has been very involved in it and has been Chief Financial Controller since its inception. He is a firm believer in its

I personally wish him well and know that his wife, children, and grandchildren will appreciate the extra time he will now has to spend at home with them, but of course there is always the pull of the golf course. wool2yarnglobal 2016

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making it better every year by Victor Chesky

The name Standard Wool UK, synonymous with wool trading and processing, has been in this business for over 200 years. Today the company operates trading and scouring facilities in West Yorkshire, UK, right through to operations in Chile, China and New Zealand. It is a global group committed to sourcing, processing and supplying superior quality scoured wool and tops. We catch up with Paul Hughes Snr in Bradford:

Paul Hughes Senior

r Hughes comments that a key to the longevity of the company and its successful trading is its diversification within the wool industry, from producing and selling Merino and Crossbred Tops to producing and selling NZ and UK Scoured wools for carpet/bedding production. ‘Ensuring that our clients around the globe can fix raw material supply with confidence and an emphasis on quality is at the heart of our business.’Says Paul Hughes Snr, ‘We are forward thinkingwith strong financial backing, this allows us to trade wool on a global scale and to invest in our UK Scouring Plant and Chilean Combing Plant for the future.’

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‘This cannot happen without the passionate team around us,’ says Paul Hughes Jnr. ‘We see the industry changing, in the last 5 years we have seen people reaching retirement age within our company, however this has not stopped our progress, it actually brings about new and exciting energy to our business units, a younger generation have been able to benefit from our group structure, given time to train, visit our subsidiaries and learn from the skills and talent we have,’ says Paul Hughes Jnr. ‘Globally our clients may no longer have the luxury of a wool buyer and production manager, this can put added pressure on the client who has to work a dual role, therefore our honest approach and up

UNITED KINGDOM

most confidentiality means we are able to offer advice to our clients to ensure they have the correct quality at the correct price,’ says Paul Hughes Jnr. Standard Wool UK remains one of the largest buyers of British wool at auctions operated by the British Wool Marketing Board with customers in more than 30 countries. It markets its wool through a centralised trading hub in Bradford UK and has a global customer base spanning the carpet and woollen cloth trades. It uses the facilities of its scouring division, Thomas Chadwick & Sons, for orders big and small. Thomas Chadwick & Sons produces around 25 million kilograms of scoured wool every year. It is accredited ISO9001:2000 Quality Management accreditation in Wool Trading and Processing as well as ISO14001:2004 Environmental Management accreditation. Another distinguishing feature is the company’s accreditation by the Soil Association – an endorsement for recognition of the company’s environmentally friendly practices, permitting the scouring of organically grown wools. ‘We supply clean fibre whilst retaining fibre style and structure and customer feedback is very good’, says Mark Andrews, Production Director. ‘All wash water we use at the plant is soft fresh pure well water ideal for ensuring a clean efficient wash but also maintaining the natural structure and characteristics of the fibre - unlike some wool scours which continuously recycle the same water. The weakness of such systems is caused by the build-up of ammonia and other contaminants which affect the final product in terms of odour and cleanliness’. The New Zealand Standard Wool UK office is near Christchurch and sources New Zealand slipe, Greasy, and ScouredWool for exports to all processing countries. It buys

Richard Moore and Andrew Jones

Paul Hughes Junior

Gary Doherty from Standard Wool NZ

wool directly from private wool merchants and from the auction floor. For more information please contact Paul Hughes Junior pshughes@standard-wool.co.uk wool2yarnglobal 2016

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wool exporter offers wide range of wool types

here are more than 60 different sheep breeds in the United Kingdom, more than in any other country. There is a diverse choice in colours including creams, greys, browns and blacks. British wool is particularly suitable for carpet because of its high crimp, strength and bulk. It is also suitable for bedding products and upholstery cloth and its finer wool is increasingly being used in knitting yarns and apparel. ‘Each breed presents different characteristics that are suitable for these different applications ‘, says Graham Sugden of GS Wools. ‘We understand these different wool types and we can provide advice to customers in relation to their varying needs.’ ‘Volatility in wool prices, restricted supply, and an appreciation of a fluctuating British pound are all factors that influence wool buying patterns and we can keep our customers upto-date in this ever shifting trade environment’.

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GS Wools is registered with the British Wool Marketing Board to buy wool at auction. It also has strong relationships with European farmers, and can source other European wools quickly. The company specialises in top making wools, carpet wools, and wool for bedding products and exports these British and European wools to China, India, South America and South East Asia. Graham’s son Tom joined the family business last year. ‘Providing personal service to all our clients is at the centre of our ethos at GS Wools. We are passionate about creating trusting relationships, with an emphasis on ensuring we deliver an excellent service’, says Tom Sugden. ‘Our company is not large and our margins are small so we can deliver quality wool at very competitive prices. We tailor orders to individual customer needs and work closely with them. We pride ourselves on our specialised experience and knowledge within the wool industry.’ ‘We are always open to enquiries from buyers that are interested in tapping into our expertise in British and European wool’. Mr Sugden can be contacted on graham@gswools.com

Know how...

to communicate to more than 10,000 buyers in 60 countries

wool 2yarnChina Speciality Fibres 中国羊毛与纱线

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wool2yarnglobal is published once each year in

wool2yarnChina is published once each year in

September. This English language publication is circulated to over 5600 wool and textile companies in more than 60 countries worldwide. It is the most cost effective way to reach new clients and your existing cutomer base.

September. This Chinese language publication is circulated to over 5000 companies including importers of wool and speciality fibres, manufacturers of wooltop and yarn, spinners, weavers, and fabric and carpet manufacturers in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Readership includes major importers of wool and speciality fibres, manufacturers of wooltop, and woollen yarn, spinners & weavers, fabric & carpet manufacturers, leading garment manufactures including major brands and retail chains.

It is also circulated to all delegates (600+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool Market Conference, the major international conference for the wool and textile industry in China.

Where you advertise makes a difference - Advertising in these two publications will reinforce your company position as a preferred supplier to existing customers, and to new buyers in 60 countries. For more information or to book your advertising space for the 2017 issues contact us at info@wool2yarnglobal.com or visit us at www.wool2yarnglobal.com wool2yarn Global and wool2yarn China are published by International Trade Publications, Melbourne Australia.

UNITED KINGDOM

Dashing Tweed team (from left to right) Holly Pressdee, Design Studio Manager, Guy Hills company CEO and Kirsty McDougall Fabric Design Director

The Modern Urban Knight rides a bicycle

Michael Chereshsky

hen it comes to clothing, consumer expectation has changed dramatically in recent years. Garments need to perform on so many levels including comfort, durability, and flexibility, in both leisure and formal wear. Tweed jackets do not usually come to mind when contemplating a bicycle ride but this is exactly what a UK tailoring company has come up with - to the delight of the modern urban man wanting to stay in shape and get to his next appointment still looking fresh and uncrumpled. Dashing Tweeds is a London based menswear company specializing in creating modern urban woven textiles using Merino and UK wool. ‘We are bringing tweed to town and by combining modern sportswear with the traditional we are creating a whole new

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concept in tailored wear for men. We aim to make tweed sportswear modern and urban and our cycling range is the embodiment of this ethos’, says Guy Hills founder and director at Dashing Tweeds. ‘This range of clothing is designed with cycling in mind, but we know that the time spent cycling to meetings in the city is only a small part of the day. We have adapted highly evolved features of tailoring such as the twisted seams of riding breeches, the action shoulders of shooting jackets, and the cuff details of the Household Cavalry coats. Our desire is to tailor elegant clothes that function on and off the bicycle with no effort’, he enthuses. Dashing Tweeds exhibited in the Cycle Revolution exhibition at the Design Museum

UNITED KINGDOM

Dashing Tweeds suits on the catwalk at Ningbo Fashion Week in China

in London this year. Always on the lookout for innovations to display, the museum was fascinated by Dashing Tweeds Lumatwill fabric and the cycle suits it has tailored in its urban reflective tweed. ‘They loved our stories of modernising traditional tweed sportswear with new designs inspired by townscapes and the inclusion of high tech retro reflective 3M yarns which are woven with fine Merino wools’, says Guy Hills. ‘The Lumatwill cloth reflects car headlights at night, and by day, the 3M fibres look like elegant silver threads. We have cycle blazers, more casual bomber jackets as well as reflective tailored trousers, capes and caps and we are constantly working on new cloth designs and each season we add something to the cycle range’.

include elasticated ‘action’ shoulders for ease of movement, whilst reaching for the handle bars and a new mud splash flap which fastens up from the rear of the jacket and includes an extra hi vis panel. When not illuminated by head lights the suit simply looks like an elegant faint pinstripe three button blazer jacket and trousers, which can be worn with nonchalance around town.

The featured suit designed by Dashing Tweeds and tailored by Davies and Son of Savile Row

Guy Hills can be contacted at Guy@DashingTweeds.co.uk

Dashing Tweeds has a boutique store on 26 Sackville St, London. Bespoke tailoring originated in Savile Row, just a stone’s throw away from Dashing Tweeds. It is a must visit destination offering some of the finest and most wonderfully eccentric tailored clothes in London.

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Standard Wool Punta Tops favoured by knitwear manufacturers

ool spinners around the world have a wide choice in wool top available to them. Wool top manufacturers must provide the most appropriate parameters, be cost competitive, and have the right environmental accreditation. Punta Tops offered by Standard Wool UK subsidiary company in Chile is well known to spinners around the world. ‘Our knowledge in Chilean wools and our sourcing expertise enable us to make a versatile top for a variety of applications. We process and supply long tops, noil, and high grade wool grease for a diverse international customer base’, says Dean Sugden General Manager Standard Wool Chile (SWC). Standard Wool UK has been a major force in Chile for more than 200 years and is a major buyer of Chilean Corriedale and Merino fleece wools. Its scouring and combing plant is in Punta Arenas in the heart of the Magallanes region. Sourcing Wool from over 450 Wool Producers, we buy most of our raw material directly from the farmers by private negotiation. SWC buys 60%-70% of the entire Chilean clip each year. At the start of every wool season the company wool buyers take the time to visit the individual farmers of Patagonia. ‘This is something that is often

overlooked, but we believe that valuing the wool on a visual basis rather than only looking at a test certificate is very important’, says Dean Sugden. The most important wools in terms of quantity and quality are produced in the south of the country. It is generally 19.5 - 30 microns of snow white colour and is especially popular for knitwear manufacturers. ‘The original and best Punta Arenas Super Fleeces Top has a soft handle, super strength, low vegetable matter and exceptional length and meets Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - Product Class 1’, says Mr Sugden. We are Interwoollab accredited for length and micron given further assurances to the Wool Spinner. The processing plant is equipped with French carding and combing machinery and has a 2.4m wide Andar 6 bowl scouring line and has the capacity to process 4 million kilos each year with a modern effluent treatment system. The company’s Alfa Laval wool grease recovery plant delivers excellent quality wool grease which is exported to clients all around the world. ‘Standard Wool now incorporates the IWTO Guidelines for Wool Sheep Welfare in purchase contracts with Wool Producers and actively promotes good animal welfare practices, as the largest buyer in the region it is important we deliver the message’ Says Paul Hughes Jnr. ‘We bring togetherour knowledge in local wools and technological innovation, operational flexibility and forward-thinking attitudes to deliver the best in scoured wool and wool tops’, says Mr Sugden. Dean Sugden can be contacted at dsugden@ standardwool.co.uk

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STANDARD WOOL WHERE WE LEAD, OTHERS FOLLOW. WITH OVER 200 YEARS INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE, STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY AND SERVICING MORE THAN 30 COUNTRIES WORLD WIDE, ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOT SURPRISING MORE AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE TURNING TO US FOR ALL THEIR WOOL REQUIREMENTS. WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK

STANDARD WOOL (UK) +44 (0)1274 756600 STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing) +86 25 5807 1182

PASSIONATE ABOUT WOOL

NEW ZEALAND

NZ wool exporter launches integrity brand

ew Zealand wool exporter Bloch & Behrens (B&B) has introduced a new flagship brand for New Zealand wool that is marketed under the brand Wool Integrity NZ™. This brand gives customers every assurance that the wool supplied to them has been grown and scoured ethically and is fully traceable back to the farm on which it was grown.

Having operated in New Zealand since 1949, and with roots dating back to 1856, B&B is one of the oldest New Zealand wool export companies. Now exporting New Zealand wool to over 30 countries worldwide, B&B is the only GOTS certified wool exporter in New Zealand. General Manager of B&B, Palle Petersen explains, ‘B&B is the export arm of PGG Wrightson Wool, the biggest wool brokers in New Zealand. This relationship allows us to take wool through every stage of its journey from farm to scour and beyond to our customers worldwide, retaining full control and transparency throughout the entire process.’ ‘We pride ourselves on our reputation for excellence in the market place’, he says,‘so it made sense to create a flagship brand that embraces the high quality standards for which B+B is renowned. It encapsulates our integrity in dealing with all our customers and farmer suppliers. Combining these long held values with the procurement capabilities of our parent company makes for a very powerful brand which we are proud to bring to the market.’ Only farms that adhere to the Integrity Programme qualify for the Wool Integrity NZ™ brand. ‘We guarantee that wool under this brand has been grown to best practice standards and that strict animal welfare codes have been followed relating to all aspects of the care of the animals’. B&B’s relationship with each farm, together with specialised record keeping, ensures that every farm lot and each consignment can be traced back to where the wool was grown. ‘When wool is delivered to one of our wool stores, we draw samples mechanically from each farm lot. This enables us to determine the suitability of each lot for any consignment. In addition, each farm lot is independently sampled and tested by NZWTA or SGS Wool Testing Services. Any deviation from 124

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specification results in the wool being rejected from that consignment’, says Palle Petersen. ‘We personally manage the selection and movement of wool from the farm gate to our customers’, says Palle Petersen, ‘and we guarantee that each farm lot in any consignment will meet the specification of the scoured type ordered and delivered. We also guarantee that no inferior wools are blended into any lot.’ Wool under the Wool Integrity NZ™ brand is scoured using only NPEO free 6 mole detergents and no bleach is added to enhance colour readings. This results in a pure, natural product that remains stable throughout further processing and manufacture which provides customers with optimal processing results. ‘B+B works with a range of spinners around the world, so any carpet or upholstery manufacturer interested in our Wool Integrity brand is able to purchase yarn through one of our approved spinner partners, which includes both woollen and semi-worsted spun yarns’. Complementing this service is B&B’s European office located in Copenhagen, managed by Hans Bering. Hans provides on-the-spot service to the customers in that part of the world. Any finished product made using B&B Wool Integrity NZ™ branded scoured wool is eligible to carry the Wool Integrity NZ™ brand free of charge. Whether you are a carpet manufacturer or a producer of home textiles, including upholstery or bedding products, Wool Integrity NZ™ branded scoured New Zealand wool will provide an additional added-value endorsement to your product. For more information, contact Palle Petersen Email: bbnz@blochwool.com

BLOCH & BEHRENS WOOL (NZ) LTD

Servicing the wool industry, adding value from farm to market.

• • • • •

Greasy and Scoured New Zealand wool. New Zealand Wool Tops. New Zealand’s only GOTS certified Wool Exporter. Supplier of Ecolabel certified NZ Lambswool. Subsidiary of largest NZ wool broker, PGG Wrightson Ltd.

Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd General Manager: Palle Petersen PO Box 9024, Tower Junction, Christchurch 8149, New Zealand P +64 3 343 9100 E bbnz@blochwool.com Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd – Europe General Manager: Hans Bering Langs Hegnet 86, 2800 Lyngby, Denmark P +45 20 40 74 72 E bbeurope@blochwool.biz

www.pggwrightsonwool.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND

changes strengthen NZWSI by Victor Chesky

New Zealand Wool Services International Ltd’s (NZWSI) recent ownership adjustment has added more strength to the group’s operations. The acquisition of J S Brooksbank has made NZWSI New Zealand’s largest wool exporting group and reinforced the company’s strong market position. I caught up with John Dawson in Christchurch and Chen Yuhui, China manager to talk about how the changes will affect the company.

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season with extreme internal and external shifts has meant we have had to stay light on our toes. The expansion of ownership by

NEW ZEALAND

Left to right: Nathan Arthur and Bruce Reid wool buyers, and Malcolm Ching

recognises that to meet expectations at retail around environmental aspects, source of material and guarantees of product integrity, this continued investment is critical.

Shandong Ruyi of the Lempriere wool group of which NZWSI and J.S. Brooksbank are a significant part, has been seamless and it is business as usual. Continued refinement of our wool sourcing systems has provided added flexibility, allowing NZWSI to concentrate on its core activities, while being able to expand access to wool supply. This is providing opportunities to better service clients as J.S Brooksbank concentrates on the greasy wool sector and NZWSI on the scoured sector. This balance, combined with strong supply networks and a wide customer base continues to be the strength underpinning our ability to meet client’s requirements” comments John Dawson. NZWSI, as the only New Zealand Wool Exporter with wool scouring investment,

WSI backs these aspects up with its own brand of excellence, Purelana ™and Red Band label. “These brands are about quality, consistency and reliability,” says Chen Yuhui from the WSI office in Nanjing. “The Red Band is an easily recognised red strap attached to the bales, quickly identifiable as being sourced from WSI when in the customer’s warehouse. It imparts a level of confidence to processors that each bale within the delivery will perform consistently, as it’s backed up by stringent selection criteria and in-house testing, providing technical data within 48 seconds of each bale being tested. Careful monitoring of each bales results minimises range fluctuations, providing more even deliveries”. Purelana™ is a well-established brand, particularly in China, backed up by Red Band and is applied to a wide range of WSI’s scoured wool types covering interior textiles to apparel. All deliveries are supported by WSI’s guarantees, technical support team and full test data. wool2yarnglobal 2016

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NZ scourer achieves EU Ecolabel compliance

ew Zealand’s Cavalier Woolscourers Awatoto site has been confirmed EU Ecolabel compliant. ‘We offer our customers the highest level of environmental certification and labelling and this is a very important aspect of our customer service’, says Tony Cunningham COO. ‘The EU Ecolabel logo makes it simple to know that a product or a service is both environmentally friendly and good quality’. Cavalier Woolscourers operates processing plants in Napier and Timaru and has the capacity to process 100 million kgs of greasy wool and speciality fibre every year. Both plants use ANDAR processing lines and computer controlled greasy blending systems. These systems include multiple greasy wool openers, which are individually set for each style and length of wool. These enable the

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company to reduce the effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%. ‘New Zealand has the cleanest brightest scoured wool on the planet’, says Tony Cunningham. ‘Our processed wool has the lowest levels of fibre residue anywhere in the world. We have layers of processes to detect contaminants throughout the washing cycle; visual checks by experienced technicians, and automated scanning and detection equipment such as metal detectors. Our processing achieves a maximum yield with world-leading technology and pre-scour treatment results in less entanglement of finished product, less felting and consequently a higher percentage of product suitable for market’. ‘Wool that has not been washed to specification presents a cost to manufacturers in money and time, and the possibility of

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Tony Cunningham

product defects if pollutants go undetected’, says Tony Cunningham. ‘Our scoured wool is consistent in quality, and uniform length and colour, which makes it an ideal fibre for any textile product’.

else in Asia’, says Tony Cunningham. The company does not trade wool on its own account. It is a stand-alone commission wool scourer and therefore has no conflict of interest with any customers.

After scouring, every bale is tested for moisture content, residual grease, colour and weight. Cavalier is accredited with both SGS New Zealand and the New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA).

The company is accredited with ISO 9001, Global Organic Textiles (GOTS) for “100% Organic Scoured New Zealand Wool” also Environmental Choice, EC – 47 – 11 which in the worlds first dedicated woolscouring environmental standard. ‘We rate ourselves as the most quality conscious commission scouring company in the world’, he says.

‘We provide a very personal service for each customer’, says Tony Cunningham. ‘We offer a tailored wool processing service that is extremely cost competitive. We are the only New Zealand wool scouring company that has been specifically set up with highly modified and fine-tuned ANDAR “Top Master Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool to exacting quality standards.’ ‘We have the skills and machinery to provide one-stop-shop service and are as competitive in price as any scourer in China or anywhere

‘We lead the way with World Best Practices for environmental issues such as low water usage, energy usage and recycling. All wash water is fresh pure natural water from artesian ground wells onsite, not recycled water that has been stripped with acid and polymers’, he comments. ‘Eco Labelling Certification is another confirmation of our adherence to strict environmental practices’. wool2yarnglobal 2016

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Segard Masurel NZ strong presence in Europe

ool exporters have been facing global challenges. Currency and tightening supply have been the most critical factors in buffering the challenges. New Zealand wool industry has not been immune. Wool production has decreased by 4-5% and wool exporters have been exposed to a volatile New Zealand dollar. Access to the best wool supply becomes more important’, says Peter Whiteman Managing Director at Segard Masurel New Zealand. ‘Our strength is in our diverse buying options. 50% of the wool we buy for our customers comes directly from farms and 50% of the wool we buy is from auction. We are involved in buying direct from an established network of farmers. This enables us to supply any New Zealand wool type, from the finest in 16 micron to the coarsest in 40 microns. Segard Masurel NZ is one of the biggest exporters of New Zealand wool worldwide. It is part of the long established international Segard Masurel group of companies with offices in New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, France and Belgium. ‘We hold stock in Europe for customers that are used to the quick service we have been providing for decades. Our straight forward approach to customer service has been maintained over time’, says Peter Whiteman. ‘We can make deliveries in hours not days from various warehouses in Europe’. Segard Masurel NZ has been the biggest buyer 132

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at auction for the last 3 years. It is also a large private buyer of greasy wool and slipe in both the North and South Islands. Private buying has the added advantage that the company will see every bale that it buys, not just the samples. The pipeline is shortened and this is reflected in cost and speed. When exporter, farmer and manufacturer work together it has to be good for all parties concerned’, he says. ‘Proximity to the wool supply allows us to select the best wools for our customers. This approach enables us to react to the changing trends in both the knitting and carpet sector. We can respond quickly to the buying patterns of our clients in Europe, India, and other countries’. Segard Masurel New Zealand employs its own buyers in both Islands, as well as buyers at auction. Communication with customers is immediate - buyers on the ground can quickly and efficiently action specific orders. ‘Customers rely on the flexibility to vary their orders and we can provide for adjustments to changing buying requirements’. However, the auction system is still necessary to provide clarity and transparency. ‘Farmers still like the option to auction’, he says. ‘It is a straightforward method of sale that provides for payment on the day. We provide a selling catalogue at every North Island auction, ensuring farmers a three way choice - direct buying, forward buying contracts, and the auction system’. Companies interested in contacting Segard Masurel NZ can do so by email wool@segardmasurel.co.nz

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find your way to quality NZ wool

ew Zealand wool is sought after internationally for its resilience and exceptional whiteness. These attributes make it particularly receptive to dye, a crucial factor for use in high-end carpet and fabrics for both interior design and apparel fashion houses. ‘New Zealand wool is naturally very white and free of black fibres, making it easier for manufacturers to produce dense and uniform colour’, says John Marshall & Co’s Peter Crone from his office in Christchurch NZ. ‘It is a sustainable fibre, farmed outdoors and naturally long and strong. And this is why our New Zealand wool is considered the premium eco-friendly fibre for many applications.’ John Marshall & Co exports New Zealand wool to customers worldwide. It is a member of Council of New Zealand Wool Exporters, and is a strong supporter of the Campaign for Wool. It is among the top 10 wool companies in New Zealand exporting crossbred greasy wool, scoured wool and slipe wool, and wool tops. It sources wool through the auction system as well through its established direct buying channels. The company is well known as an exporter of high quality New Zealand Merino wool. ‘Our Merino wool comes directly from a selected group of growers in the southern region of New Zealand. They all produce wool from the same bloodline. These sheep produce high quality merino wool that is well received by top makers in Europe and China,’ he says. ‘We have been sourcing wool from these same woolgrowers for many years, and this gives us considerable direct buying

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capacity. Our personal relationships are a great advantage. We can guarantee supply of excellent quality New Zealand Merino wool. While the quantity of New Zealand merino wool has dropped over the last 10 years the quality has not’, he says. ‘Our fleece wool is non-mulesed and we can provide full proof of traceability direct from the farm’. ‘We can supply any New Zealand wool type that a client may require. When our clients ask for a particular wool type they know that is what we will deliver. They can count on consistently receiving the best delivery from us with the parameters they require. Good quality wool, good environmental practices and a reliable service are what we are all about at John Marshall & Co’, says Peter Crone. In recent years John Marshall & Co has developed its Joma Wool brand for applications specific to manufacturers of mattress and bedding products in America, Asia and Europe. ‘About 10% of our wool each year is used to produce our high-end Joma Wool. This specially processed wool has extra crimp and an increased bulk of 40% to 50% that further enhances its natural resilience. Each fibre of this wool functions as a miniature spring and the vertical alignment of the fibres and crimp work together to create a cushion under the body that facilitates air circulation.’ ‘We are always on the look-out for new and innovative applications for New Zealand wool. So, if you are a manufacturer with some new ideas we would be very happy to work with you to develop new products using New Zealand wool’, comments Peter Crone. For more information, please contact Peter Crone at peter@joma.co.nz or info@joma.co.nz

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

NEW ZEALAND

whiter and brighter lambs’ wool from NZ

here are well held expectations that New Zealand sheep numbers will stabilise in 2017/18 after a decline experienced over many years. ‘This is coming off a very low base’, says Michael Inkson Managing Director of JL Crichton from his office in Christchurch New Zealand. ‘However, it is possible that by the end of the season there will be a shortage of some specific wool types’. J.L. Crichton offers a large range of both scoured wool and greasy wool to meet individual client and product requirements. Its

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range of types includes wools for products and applications in carpets, hand knitting, wool spinning, non-woven, and bedding and baby wear. The company is particularly well known for delivering specific wool types including combing slipe, and greasy and scoured lambs’ wool. ‘Although we are well known as a supplier of scoured wool, in the last few years we have developed a strong greasy wool clientele’, says Michael Inkson. ‘We don’t trade

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every wool type, we are very selective, and so the wools we choose are very white, with low VM, and a lower CV in length and micron. We can offer a range of colour, micron, and length, and our standard is consistent’. ‘We always suggest customers place their orders earlier in the season to receive the best quality wool. If an order is not placed early it is more likely that some specific wool types will not be available later in the season. We strongly recommend that if you know that you will require a specific type, an early order will ensure that you get the wool you need’, he says. ‘Future contracts will ensure that we can store wool for our customers until needed’. JL Crichton has been exporting New Zealand wool to manufacturers for more than 60 years. The company has developed long-term relationships with manufacturers in the non-woven and bedding products. All JL Crichton wool is tested prior to sale, at an accredited testing facility, which provides objective measurements of commercially

Michael Inkson, Mark Hunter, Anna Kilpatrick

important characteristics. The characteristics tested include yield, condition (moisture content), fibre diameter, colour, length, strength, and bulk. For more information - www.crichtonwool.co.nz or - wool@crichton.co.nz

standing the test of time

n today’s competitive and sometimes volatile market, wool buyers around the world need a wool supplier that is large enough to source the right wool, but provide a personal and competent service. ‘We are one of the biggest buyers of wool at auctions in New Zealand and can offer a variety of wool types at industry competitive prices’, says Peter Christensen of Fuhrmann in New Zealand. The company offers all types of New Zealand wool including merino wool, greasy and scoured crossbred wool, slipe wool and all types of lambs’ wool. ‘Excellent

communication with our customers globally helps us to ensure we source the right wool for the right application’, says Peter Christensen. ‘Europe is the second biggest market for our wools after China. We have been supplying wool to the international market for many years and we are very familiar with all requirements’. Fuhrmann has been trading wool since 1735, and is the oldest wool trading company in New Zealand. ‘We have stood the test of time and being part of the G. Schneider Group, with its large international network, this is certainly an advantage for us’, says Peter Christensen wool2yarnglobal 2016

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Jeffrey Losekoot

Fuhrmann NZ team left to right: Helen Cameron, Louise Tabb, Tara Richards, Peter Christensen, Steve Finnie, Phil Deacon

‘We buy NZ wools for the entire global G. Schneider Group including our Group mills in China, Italy, Argentina, and Egypt. New Zealand sheep numbers have been dropping in recent years. ‘This reduction in numbers is a result of the drought experienced in the Canterbury area, the main sheep producing region in the South Island. The drought has caused reduced feed availability to the animals that forced farmers to sell stock. However, some recent indicators suggest that some farmers are returning to sheep farming, as the dairy industry declines in profitability’, says Steve Finnie. ‘In 2016/17 sheep numbers are expected to stabilize at 26 -27 million’. ‘Our emphasis has always been on quality’, says Steve Finnie. ‘And this is why we personally appraise every lot of wool prior to buying, to ensure customer orders are exactly fulfilled. Meeting the changing requirements of our customers is fundamental to the Fuhrmann NZ business model around the world’. Fuhrmann New Zealand is represented in Europe by Jeffrey Losekoot Sales Director of 138

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G. Schneider Group, and is based in Biella Italy. ‘It is important to be able to react quickly to changing market conditions. Fuhrmann, as one of the largest NZ wool exporters, has access to a wide variety of wool types and can supply wool for fabric industries, carpet manufactures as well as bedding products, fancy yarn, felts, lamb’s wool for upholstery and knitting yarns. New Zealand is well known as a major producer of carpet type wools but it also offers some of the finest wools in the world. Lindis Ridges farm has produced wool measuring 10.65 microns. ‘We source the finest New Zealand merino wool for Italy’s famous fashion houses such as Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna’, says Helen Cameron, Schneider NZ manager and wool buyer. ‘Finer wools don’t necessarily go to auction so our established and long standing relationship with merino wool growers enables us to quickly source the best available for our mills’, says Helen Cameron, Schneider NZ manager and wool buyer. Fuhrmann NZ Email: fuhrmann@fuhrmann.co.nz or Jeffrey Losekoot at jeffrey.losekoot@gschneider.com

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Cape Wools welcomes new chairman by Victor Chesky

George de Kock, new chairman at Cape Wools has been a board member for 8 years and is no stranger to the wool industry. He is a 6th generation grain and wool farmer and a strong advocate for positive social impacts the industry can play in local communities. He has provided housing for a number of families on his farm, donated land for a local school, and is a passionate supporter of sustainable environmental practices. During my recent visit to Port Elizabeth, I spoke with Mr de Kock about the challenges facing South African woolgrowers.

‘We are focused on stimulating wool production in South Africa through good farming practices. Wool prices have been good in the last couple of years so farmers are shifting their focus from mutton sheep, to an emphasis on wool production.’ ‘Our aim is always to keep the quality of our wool to the highest standard, and achieving this comes down to preparation at the farm level. Quality depends on the breed, and the fibre length is important too’, he says. ‘We have been introducing a twice yearly shearing program to achieve short length wool. This has proved a financial benefit to farmers as shorter wool has been in demand and selling well.’

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In South Africa we grow our wool ethically and responsibly and this attaches further value to the exceptional quality of our apparel wool’, he says. The average clip achieved by 30% of farms is 10 bales per clip, but some big dedicated wool farmers could achieve up to 400 bales per year. Meticulous classing has always been an important aspect of the wool harvesting process. One of the most important criteria of the Code is for the classer to obtain evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line. Thus, minimum variation around properties such as micron, length, strength, vegetable matter (VM), yield, quality and appearance, is critically important.

‘We have been working with Australian Wool Innovation in past-the-farm-gate and genetic work to further improve our farm practices, wool handling and preparation. At Cape Wools we are also a big supporter of the Campaign for Wool and its wool promotion activities.

‘And as far as mulesing is concerned, this is not practiced here’, he says. South African wool has a very low CVH and very regular length and is suitable for top and yarn manufacturers. The majority of fibre ranges from 17 - 24 microns with more than 98% of the clip finer than 24 microns. It is known for its excellent colour and measures between 60 - 69 Y units on the brightness scale. These attributes also make it ideal to blend with Australian wool.

Mr de Kock points out that ‘in South Africa we don’t a have guaranteed levee or government assistance. This lack of commercial leverage on the international stage, together with a tight budget, means we must work smart to make sure that our members are well served’. ‘I believe our Code of Best Practice reflects well on our ability to sell a very good product.

We continue to develop strong education programs particularly in shed preparation pre shearing, and shearing. We believe that our South African farmers must have a passion for wool at the farm level. Working to maintain this passion into the next generation of South African wool growers is a priority for us.’

wool2yarnglobal 2016

www.simonsays.co.za | 8611

Cape Wool has been produced from Merino sheep at the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa since 1789. South Africa provides a fantastic natural environment for raising Merino in a caring fashion. South African Merino Wool is globally acclaimed for exceptional quality apparel wool and well classed for the international markets.

Tel: +27 41 484 4301 capewool@capewools.co.za | www.capewools.co.za

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clean-green approach to quality wool

he South African Merino sheep produce wool most suitable for a range of garments and textile products. It has been bred to produce finer wool, and the majority of the clip is between 18 and 21 microns. The good fibre diameter and fibre length distribution characteristics in South African wool top make it suitable for spinning into any conceivable commercial yarn count required by the apparel industry. It is ideally suited for soft against the skin products in fabric or knitwear.

‘South Africa has a reputation for delivering a well-classed clip to the international wool textile markets’, says Louis de Beer CEO Cape Wools. The availability of a wide range of microns and staple lengths, ensure that South African wools can be processed into a large and diverse range of fine wool apparel products on either the worsted, semi-worsted or the woollen system. ‘Due to their inherent high staple strength, low within-sale-lot variation in staple length and low VM content, combing fleeces produce excellent tops characterised by low short fibre values and low CV (%) of Hauteur values. And South African exporters are skilled in designing appropriate blends to meet client specifications for a wide range of intermediate products. South African wool is non-mulesed and a new verification certification is available to all buyers. ‘This is something that is being well received by buyers who are increasingly focused on sourcing verifiably non-

Fine wool grower classes wool into 22 different lines to obtain evenness for any measured properties within an individual line minimum variation around properties such as micron, length, strength, vegetable matter (VM), yield, quality and appearance, is critically important.

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mulesed wool’, says Louis de Beer. ‘Mulesing is of concern to the entire industry and negative publicity about mulesing is often indiscriminate, and will damage the entire wool industry. Retail customers, may be put off wool altogether, irrespective of where it comes from and whether it is mulesed or not.’ ‘Our standards in animal welfare keep improving and so too does the quality of our wool. Virtually the entire South African clip is tested and certified by the Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa, an Interwoollabs accredited testing house, of which we as an industry and very proud.’ The South African clip is predominantly a merino clip. Between 65 - 75% of this clip comprise fleece wools with the balance being made up of locks, belly wools, and lambs’ wool. It is high yielding, with more than 60% of the clip yielding at least 60% clean. Seed contamination is limited, with more than 80% of the clip normally exhibiting very low levels (2% or less). Much of the South African clip is shorn by hand. Many producers prefer hand shearing to machine shearing for animal welfare concerns. Shearing times are flexible and producers can react very quickly to market signals. Long wools (60 mm and above) normally comprise more than 65% of the clip, while shorter qualities are well suited to the fine woollen apparel trade and represent the remainder of the clip. Wool clip preparation includes strict measures for shearing shed management and quality assurance procedures on the farm to avoid any unwanted material entering the wool in the bale, and ongoing shearer training courses are also structured around shed management procedures to ensure clip quality.

SOUTH AFRICA

history and expertise on their side

he Greasy Wool Trading department at Stucken & Co in Port Elizabeth is backed by over 150 years of experience and expertise in wool. Ably managed today by Vince Knapton – who himself has worked with wool for more than 40 years (32 of which have been with the Stucken Group), and supported by Werner Gerber, greasy wool trading remains integral to the Group’s activities in South Africa. The Group’s unwavering commitment to quality and reliability is expressed in meticulous appraisal standards and ensuring that buyers’ requirements are matched with the most appropriate selection of wools on offer in a professional and personal way.

natural attributes of a soft handle and high staple strength. In addition, the virtual absence of mulesing in South Africa allows Stucken & Co to provide buyers with an assurance of sustainability and a reliable alternative source of high quality merino wool.

The growing trend for traceability and sustainability by today’s users and consumers of wool has increased the demand for South African wool around the world. The ongoing commitment of South African wooI growers to adhere to the guidelines and standards of the Code of Best Practice and exceptional classing standards enhance South African wools’

With the support of the Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa all wool deliveries are backed with IWTO test certificates adding independence and integrity to wool shipments from South Africa. To satisfy your South African wool requirements go to www.stucken.co.za or contact us at vince@stucken.co.za or stucken@stucken.co.za

The dominance of the Chinese wool industry has resulted in more than 70% of the Cape clip being exported to that country in recent years. With their partner HANSCENT in China, the Stucken Group’s joint venture company STUCKENLINK, based in Shanghai,has a dedicated team in place that is well positioned to service this very important market for wool.

Vince Knapton (left) and Werner Gerber

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South African wool stands out for its environmental credentials Mulesing is virtually unknown in South Africa. Companies concerned about mulesing can buy South African wool with a new Verification Certificate, issued by Cape Wools to authenticate non-mulesed wool.

Standard Wool SA is the biggest exporter of South African wool. All of its exported wool is tested by an independent IWTO-accredited laboratory (Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa) and IWTO test certificates are used as a basis of trading as per the international norm.

Mark Wright (left) and Paul Lynch

ccording to Mark Wright joint managing director at Standard Wool SA ‘The consumer at retail level is increasingly interested in the story behind wool. Buyers of fabric and garments want to know where the wool has come from, and they want to know about the welfare credentials of the producers’, he says. ‘Using South African wool for their production means that they can be confident that providing this certification will eliminate any issue for them further down the processing pipeline in terms of mulesing’. 144

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The company has increased its exports to Europe, and in particular to India. ‘Although China remains the main destination for our wools we are working closely with India to develop this market further and encourage an increase in exports of our wools to this expanding market,’ says Ken Craig. Ken has many years experience working for BKB, the biggest wool broker in South Africa and has been with Standard Wool SA for the last two years. ‘We maintain effective communication with our customers around the world and respond quickly to any inquiries’, continues Ken Craig. ‘Our core business has a very strong focus on quality aspects of wool supply and this includes valuing wool and selecting the right wools for the specific needs of any customer.’ South African merino wool has earned a reputation for uniformity, softness and high

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staple strength. ‘Users of South African wool know that our wools do not have the same specifications in yield and vm as Australian wool, but if used correctly South African wool will perform just as well or even better’, comments Paul Lynch. ‘Our customers also know that our wool prices are always competitive and we ensure that the correct wool is bought for each individual client, and is bought at the right price. We are a large enough company to guarantee supply, but we are not too big and do not compromise on quality or service.’ For more information please contact Paul Lynch at paul@standardwool.co.za or Mark Wright mark@standardwool.co.za or Ken Craig ken@standardwool.co.za

Ken Craig

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from farm to wool tops and garment manufacturers. ‘We are proud to be able to provide genuine, full and verifiable traceability for non-mulesed wool tops on demand. We can even supply tops made of wool coming from one single farm for special projects’. It can also offer tops made of wool from various origins such as South America, Europe, Australia, etc., sourced from its sister companies or through reliable partners. ‘We can sell forward as well as for prompt delivery from our stocksheld both in South Africa and Europe’, he concludes. For more information, please contact wool@smza.co.za or visit www.segardmasurel.com

egard Masurel South Africa is part of the long-established and internationally respected Segard Masurel group - also established in Australia, New Zealand and Europe. ‘Through our wool broking arm, our international trading division and our combing plant, Cape of Good Hope Woolcombers, we are able to follow and control the wool process literally from the sheep’s back up to first stage production’, says Olivier Segard. ‘Through the broking division we offer South African wool farmers in-depth analysis of their clips, as well as providing information and insights into global trends in the wool industry. We offer assistance with shearing, and we also provide the wool farmer with two options for marketing wool – either through the auction system, or via our direct buying scheme’. The company supplies wool tops and associated by-products to spinners, weavers

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Cape of Good Hope Woolcombers offers commission combing service The Segard Masurel combing mill, Cape of Good Hope Woolcombers, is the only sliver top combing mill in South Africa, and is able to offer commission combing at internationally competitive pricing. Double combing and bleaching options are also available. The mill is ideally located in Uitenhage, near Port Elizabeth, the wool hub of South Africa. The company uses environmentally-friendly detergent (NPEO free), and is Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 certified. The factory laboratoryis ISO 17025 certified and INTERWOOLLABS accredited. Combing results can also be verified independently by the Wool Testing Bureau, the IWTO accredited testing house for the South African wool industry. For more information, please contact wool@cghwc.co.za or visit www.segardmasurel.com

SOUTH AFRICA

processors favour South African wool

outh African wool is known to processors around the world as a well classed clip offering a wide range of fine wool for worsted and semi-worsted products. 75% of the clip comprises fleece. The fibre diameter range is between 17 - 24 microns with 98% of this measuring finer than 24 microns. Lempriere Group office in South Africa is one of the largest buyers of South African wool from farms and at auction. Main export markets for the company are China, India, Europe and the Americas. Strong ties to the grower ensure consistent and reliable supply in terms of both quality and quantity. Lempriere Group has been sourcing, processing, and exporting wool for over 150 years and Lempriere South Africa, established 7 years ago in Port Elizabeth and is an integral component of the Lempriere Group’s global supply network.

practices. South African sheep are nonmulesed and on request Lempriere South Africa can offer non-mulesed certification. All wools purchased by Lempriere South Africa are tested by an Interwoollabs accredited wool testing house. South African wool is soft to handle and is ideal for next to skin fabric and knitwear and at Lempriere we offer competitive supply based on our customers processing requirements’, says Angus Hooke. ‘We also offer greasy and semi-processed wool from other regions on the continent, including Namibia and Kenya. Angus Hooke can be contacted at angus.hooke@lempriere.com.au

‘We have customers from around the world that are interested in South African merino wool’, says Angus Hooke of Lempriere Group from head office in Melbourne. ‘And as the sheep in South Africa are shorn more frequently, around every 9 months, it is a very attractive alternative to processors that are looking for a steady supply of quality merino wool all year round’. ‘Our customers want to know where the raw materials in their products have come from, and our diverse buying channels that include direct from farm and auction buying offer them complete traceability from sheep to shelf ’. Meticulous classing of wool has always been a very important aspect of wool preparation for the South African wool industry. A large percentage of the South African clip is still shorn by hand and this is appreciated by producers that insist on good animal welfare wool2yarnglobal 2016

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Organic certification and traceability offered in German wools this year. German farmers are producing better quality wools due to strengthening farming practices and preparations. ‘I see this trend in better quality increasing, and in particular in the 26 - 30 micron range’, says John Semmelhaak director at Friedrich Sturm Wool, the largest exporter of German wool. ‘The East and South of Germany produce 3000 - 4000 tons of wool every year - and about 70 % of this is at the finer end. ‘German wool has been very consistent in quality regarding low VM, length and colour’.

John Semmelhaak

ermany has seen some very good wool seasons in the last few years with total production reaching 7000 tons

This, according to Mr Semmelhaak opens up opportunities for German wool to be used in not only carpet wool, but to extend its use into more exclusive markets such as tweed fabric.

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INTERNATIONAL TRADE PUBLICATIONS

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GERMANY

‘We source this very special type of wool from selected German farms. The clip is not large but we are looking at adding value to this type of wool. This wool could be specially sorted and organically certified, with traceability back to the farm. We recognise that there is a growing market in organic certification, quality and style and would be interested in establishing a joint venture arrangement with a suitable manufacturing company to partner with us in developing this to an exclusive finished product and we are working intensively on full scale marketing projects’, he says.

In the last few years wool exports have grown by 20% each year for Friedrich Sturm and John Semmelhaak attributes this to company transparency in dealing with customers big and small.

The carpet manufacturing sector already recognises German wool for its specific characteristics. But German wool can do much more than that. It is already finding its mark in special upholstery applications.

‘Despite the limited availability of our wool it has found its place in many markets around the world as a very good alternativeand supplement to the traditional NZ, Irish and UK wool. But we are looking further than this for additional value added applications for German wool’. John Semmelhaak can be contacted at jrs@frsturm.de

Mr Semmelhaak travels frequently to farms throughout Germany and to importers of wool worldwide. This hands-on approach ensures that support to growers regarding collection, logistics, and sorting remains transparent from farmer to manufacturer. ‘We offer our clients the highest level of security for our wool. Every lot is sorted to client specification and it is tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE).When we export German wool to our clients they know that it is 100% German wool. We do not sell blended wools’, he points out.

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diverse stock options from the heart of Germany by Victor Chesky

Frank Meyer

he competitive European wool and speciality fibre market has seen its share of ups and downs over the years. Stucken Melchers, based in Bremen, has been servicing customers for over 150 years, supplying European wools from all over Eastern and Western Europe, particularly German wools, as well as South African, Australian, and South American scoured and carbonised wools and wool tops. I asked Frank Meyer company director how the market has changed over the last couple of years and what highlights he sees for the coming year. ‘Our company may be 150 years old but we see ourselves as a modern fibre trading company,

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offering an all-encompassing service in supply and distribution of high quality raw materials’, says managing director Frank Meyer. ‘We have seen a real increase in demand for the South American wool tops we import. In particular we have seen an increase in demand from Eastern Europe and we expect to grow this market further in the future. ‘We have also seen an increase in demand in European wools within Europe, as well as in sales beyond the EU. Our customers know that German wools, in particular, are ideal to blend with other wools for use in hand knitting and machine knitting. It is generally a very good wool for products that require coarser types.’ ‘Our strength is the large and diverse range of fibre we hold in stock and our ability to deliver very quickly to our customers large and small’. The company operates a number of warehouse facilities in both Eastern and Western Europe. It can hold stocks of wool and speciality fibres close to client locations. In Italy and other European locations deliveries can be made on the same day as the order is placed. Stucken

Ralph Behnke with South African scoured wool

Melchers also markets a range of Stucken Group wool and mohair products from its processing and spinning operations in South Africa. According to Ralph Behnke ‘we have experienced a strong demand for carbonised wool, particularly for the felting industry. We have been supplying the felting industry for many years and can deliver the most appropriate wool for their product requirement’, says Mr Behnke. ‘We are experiencing growing interest in our speciality fibres and we offer a diverse stock range including silk, cashmere, camel, rabbit hair, angora, mohair, and other speciality fibres. We are Oekotex-100 certified for mulberry silk, tussah silk, camel wool, yak wool, and cashmere’, says Frank Meyer. ‘This year we have experienced a lot of interest in tussah silk. There is a return in interest from buyers of angora, but this is limited to the very high end market’. For more information about the products available from Stucken Melchers Frank Meyer can be contacted at meyer@stuckmel.de wool2yarnglobal 2016

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Canadian wool - high elasticity properties finds demand

lthough Canada’s three million pounds of raw wool production is a fraction of world production, Canadian wool has developed a niche in the market because of its high elasticity. This elasticity or springiness enables wool to retain its original shape. Canadian wool is blended with wool from other countries with less of this desirable characteristic. Only 10% of Canada’s production is consumed domestically, and the remaining 90% is exported to Britain, France, Germany, Spain, Japan, United States, China and India. Canadian wool ranges from 22 – 35 microns with the bulk of production being between 29 -31 microns. ‘Wool prices in Australia, South Africa, and New Zealand have been rising - blending with Canadian wool is a cost effective, quality option sought by many wool processors across the global looking for sound economical solutions to maintaining production standards’, says Eric Bjergso general manager at Canadian Co-Operative Wool Growers (CCWG). It has been serving Canadian sheep producers since 1918 and provides the Canadian wool grower with services in international wool marketing and collecting and grading. ‘Our usual practice is to shear in the spring before lambing. An expert shearer using power equipment similar to barber clippers only larger, can shear a sheep in less than five minutes, rolling off the fleece in one piece’, says Eric Bjergso. Fleeces are sacked and shipped to CCWG for grading and marketing. Wool is weighed on arrival at the CCWG warehouse and then graded and core tested. The raw wool is inspected

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by hand and classified by average diameter and length of the fibre, colour, lustre and crimp (tight, natural wave). The graded greasy wool is packed in 600 pound bales and shipped to world markets. All wool types are objectively measured after grading. ‘We believe that this gives us an essential edge. Accurate measuring for each wool lot offered for sale is appreciated by our customers. They know they are receiving a well prepared and better quality graded wool that results in a higher market value for their product’. For more information contact Mr Eric Bjergso Email: ericb@wool.ca

WOOL LOGISTICS

global logistics door-to-door

xporting wool and other natural fibres can be complex due to government restrictions and regulations in many importing countries. Without the correct knowledge the experience can be very costly. ‘Using a logistics company with a sound knowledge of local laws is very important’, says Jack Ohanian General Manager at Lempriere Global Logistics (LGL) head office in Melbourne. ‘There can be pitfalls for the international exporter unfamiliar with the different legal structures, taxations and port fees, customs protocols, and communication and language issues’. LGL provides wool logistic services for wool of all origins in the world, and is not restricted to Australia and China. ‘We use all modes of transport including air, sea, rail and road. Last year we handled over $1 billion of merchandise providing an integrated door- to- door service’, says Jack Ohanian. The company offers global freight services with a global network, bonded global warehouse hubs, agriculture logistics, marine insurance & house bills of lading. It focuses on key areas in cash flow efficiency, variable cost structure, and supply chain solutions.

analysis, 360 degree process checks, lead time analysis, and potential risks and disruption analysis’. ‘We offer the most advanced and reliable technologies, with an interactive / live international information and documentation system providing reporting including Management & KPI reports.’ ‘An area of particular interest to wool exports is China. We provide our customers with confidence to enter this market. We have been working in China for over 20 years and provide logistics services both from and to China. We also have a global network of offices and agents in Australia, New Zealand, China, USA, South Africa, India, and Argentina to assist exporters with all their logistic requirements in all of these countries’, Jack Ohanian concludes.

‘We see ourselves in partnership with our clients, offering knowledge and experience to provide confidence to them when entering global markets and offer logistics health checks, and trade documents’, he says. ‘Our new health check service offers our clients a complete analysis of the supply chain, finding opportunities to improve system inefficiencies and decrease costs. There are many critical areas in a business that may need better attention. This includes logistics process audits, logistics structural audits and recourse audit, as well as cost benefit

Jack Ohanian

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expertise in transporting wool and tops to Europe Europe has a complex bureaucratic system in customs and tax issues. The importation of wool and natural fibre into Europe can be very complicated for companies outside the European Union. ‘The rules and regulations are increasingly complicated and choosing the right transportation channels for your wool can save a lot of time and unnecessary costs’, says Harry Starkus director Kes Distri, a logistics company providing secure and hassle free logistic services to more than 100 companies around the world.

Left to right: Jonas Hüneke, Harry Starkus, Martin Konkel

ased in Bremen Germany the company provides logistic services to exporters of greasy wool, as well as importers of tops and yarn, and traders and wool merchants from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, China and South America and many other countries. Long time managing director Thomas Fuhrmann has now retired but is keen to let his clients know that he is still available to them for any advice and information. Jonas Hüneke has been with the company for five years and Martin Konkel for the last 17 years and will take over Thomas’s customers, providing the same good service. 154

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‘When an exporter entrusts us with their wool we manage sea transportation, customs clearance, delivery to our bonded warehouse, and secure storage,’ says Jonas Hüneke. ‘The customs department in Bremen is familiar with wool imports, and with our assistance all custom and duty tax is made easy, as it is something we do every day. According to Harry Starkus, ‘in the long run it is cheaper and less problematic to import wool

WOOL LOGISTICS

via Bremen and truck it to its final destination whether that be in Italy or further afield into a growing Eastern European market.’ KES DISTRI is owned by IPSEN LOGISTICS, a large shipping and logistics company based in Germany. This ownership gives KES DISTRI greater financial security and the ability to offer competitive cargo and container services to and from anywhere in the world. ‚We focus on developing concepts tailored to the specific requirements of our clients and KES DISTRI is an important part of this strategy‘, says Harry Starkus. ‘We offer prompt delivery, from one bale to 60 and more. Our experienced team can take control of all your logistical needs, avoiding long delays and additional costs for storage at customs depots’, says Martin Konkel, who liaises with customers around the world. As well as safe secure transportation services KES DISTRI also offers storage facility and on the spot selling to customers. Today smaller quantities and prompt delivery has become the norm in supplying customers in Europe. ‘This is why many of our customers utilise our centrally located warehouse in Bremen as a retail floor to store their wool top and yarn. Importers /owners can view their wool in our warehouse via our website and monitor their remaining stock. Sales from their stock can be made in bigger or smaller lots as required.’ KES DISTRI is accredited with IWTO testing houses and can perform core tests at its warehouse facility. Testing certificates are delivered directly to nominated parties. KES DISTRI is also GOTS certified for storage and processing of organic products. ‘Cheaper services may be available elsewhere but our customers come back to us for the extra value and competency that we provide’, says Mr Starkus. ‘Our company has been in the business of transporting wool and natural fibres for over 40 years and we are more than just a transport fibre company - we bring buyers and sellers together.’ For more information please contact martin.konkel@kes-bremen.de Tel: 0049 421 690777 03 harry.starkus@kes-bremen.de Tel: 0049 421 690777 01 jonas.hueneke@kes-bremen.de Tel: 0049 421 690777 19

a member of:

IPSEN LOGISTICS Power beyond cargo

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open the door to Russian wool of warehouses as collection points where the wool is sorted for export, and for domestic customers. The Group is the biggest exporter of wool from Russia with its customer base in Europe, India, and China. ‘Wool processors are under pressure from high prices for Australia, UK, and New Zealand wool’, says Mr Puzanov. ‘Due to the lower Rouble Russian wool is very competitively priced’, he points out, ‘and more companies are now buying Russian wool’. Puzanov Group collects and exports around 2,000 tons of greasy wool and up to 300 tons of feather and down material annually. ‘We can supply merino wool, semi-fine wool, semi coarse wool, wool tow, wool clip (hide-shorn), and scoured wool’, says Sergey Puzanov.

Sergey Puzanov

he best merino wool in Russia is grown in the south of Russia. It is estimated that there are some 23,000,000 sheep. There is a variety of wool types and it is predominantly 19 to 32 microns. Wool growing in Russia is dominated by individual farmers running 300 – 1000 sheep, or large farming cooperatives with 25,000 – 30,000 sheep. Today only 60% of Russian sheep are merino breeds and as in most other countries dual-purpose sheep farming is favoured. It is competitively priced and can be tested by international testing houses.

‘Wool is delivered direct from farms and sorted by our experienced staff. We pay particular attention to sorting wool, based on client requirement, and we use the best packing materials to ensure there is no contamination’, he says. ‘Our staff in Russia has many years of experience in the wool industry, most having spent their entire working life with wool and sheep. Because of this we have a good ability to source wool quickly and sometimes to very specific and particular client specification.’ Puzanov Group has offices in China, India, and Russia and can supply a variety of wool top through its office in India. We welcome enquiries from companies that are interested in finding out more about Russian wools’, Mr Puzanov concludes. Sergey Puzanov can be contacted at serjio@puzanov-group.com

‘We have many wool processing customers globally that use Russian merino wool. It is a good wool for blending with other wools, and for use on its own for a variety of products’, says Sergey Puzanov director at Puzanov Group. ‘Russian wool is also used widely for hand knitting.’ Puzanov Group sources its wool from this best merino wool growing region. It has a number 156

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60% of Russian sheep is merino producing good quality merino wool

ITALY

Left to right: Marco Schneider, Elena Schneider, Pier Carlo Buscaglia (MD of Verrone), and Giovanni Schneider

Strong nod to ‘made in Europe’ By: Victor Chesky

Travelling through Europe earlier this year visiting leading top and yarn manufacturers I couldn’t fail to notice a ground swell in demand from spinners and weavers for European made tops. I asked G. Schneider Group CEO Giovanni Schneider and Jeffrey Losekoot, Commercial Director what is driving this demand and how will it shape demand in the coming season.

‘Because of the devaluation of the Euro European production costs are coming down. So processing closer to the customer base in Europe makes perfect sense’, says Giovanni Schneider. ‘There is also recognition from the retail consumer, particularly when it comes to fashion, that the made in Europe label is synonymous with quality and style. Quick delivery from locally based processors is also a very important factor in being in Europe. And of course European processing has excellent 158

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environmental credentials, increasingly important to yarn, fabric and garment manufacturers’. G. Schneider Group is a fully integrated company with processing plants in Argentina, Egypt, Italy, China, Mongolia, and Iran. It also operates wool and speciality fibre buying offices in all natural fibre producing countries including Australia and New Zealand. It sources and processes different fibres from New Zealand carpet wool to the finest and rarest

ITALY

vicuna from Peru and Argentina. The Group has a total processing capacity of 20 million tons of wool tops per year and 300 tons of dehaired cashmere. ‘Our processing plants operate in parts of the world where our customers are and that puts us in an ideal position to deliver to their specifications promptly. We offer our customers a variety of products, quality consistency, and excellent service,’ says Jeffrey Losekoot. ‘This diversity sets us apart from others.’ ‘Our plant in Egypt has been operating since 2011’, says Mr Losekoot. ‘It is ideally located to service customers in Europe, Turkey and India with a delivery turnaround time, sometimes as quick as one week.’ This facility processes tops of 18 - 22 microns and has a production capacity of 5 million kgs of tops and 2 million kgs of carbo wool per year. The Italian plant in Biella, Pettinatura di Verrone, manufactures superfine wool tops and other precious animal fibres. It meets the quality standards of the most specialized and demanding clients around the world, and supplies to the most famous brands and labels around the world. The Biella plant has an average production of 4000 tons of superfine wool top with an average fineness of 16,5 micron with a capacity to process as fine as 10 micron. The plant processes greasy merino wool from Australia and New Zealand. It also processes cashmere and camel tops, mohair tops, and dehaired vicuña and guanaco. Progetto Lana, sister company based in Prato, specializes in the recovery and upgrade of textile by-products. ‘We retrieve them and through handcrafted processes we generate new fibre that is used primarily by the carded textile industry,’ he says. ‘There has been significant expansion and demand in Asia for better quality tops using

Left to right: Tetsuya Motohiro of Motohiro Japan and Jeff Losekoot with 18.5 micron wool processed at G. Schneider and Motohiro joint venture plant in China

finer wools’, comments Mr Schneider. ‘Our wool combing and a carbonizing plant, in the heart of the textile centre of Jiangyin, China, has a processing capacity of over 5.5 million kgs of top per year. Opened in 2004 it runs as well as any mill in Italy’. It is fully automated with 80 workers rotating 3 - 4 shifts every 24 hours. Last year the plant worked with mostly super fine wool specializing in fine merino wool with an average of 19.5 micron. But it has the capability to process as fine as 13.5m. It is not unusual for the company to fulfill orders as small as 5 - 10 tons for specific clients needing 15.5microns but 25 tons is more usual production batch. ‘Although demand in 2016/17 is somewhat subdued with a warmer than expected winter in Europe, retailers have had stock in shop unsold. Spinners are generally cautious in buying forward’, comments Mr Schneider. ‘But we do see positive developments coming from the car industry as it introduces wool into its interior upholstery fabric, and that is a very good thing. An increased use of wool in sport apparel is a further positive sign for demand’. Jeffrey Losekoot can be contacted at - jeffrey.losekoot@gschneider.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

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extensive stock offered to topmakers and spinners

Giovanni Zedda (left) and Piercarlo Zedda

iella has the world’s largest concentration of industries dedicated exclusively to the production of highquality and luxury wool fabrics. ‘Biella is where most wool fabrics begin their journey’, says Piercarlo Zedda at Pantex and newly elected president of Italian Wool Trade Association. ‘To produce this top quality fabric, that will be used to create the best garments in the world, you need to start with the best fibre. At Pantex we offer a variety of wool stock that includes standard types from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America , and Europe as tops, open tops, wool blends, carbonized wools, carbonized wool blends, and carbonized noils as well as combing woolwastes, spinning wool-wastes and weaving wool wastes. As a one-stop-shop we have warehouse facilities in the heart of Biella, Italy with representation throughout Europe. All Pantex wool is brought to the plant and tested and classified. Long term contracts are available as well as one off buying from its

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warehouses. The company has been trading for over 40 years. ‘We have our own laboratory accredited with Interwoollabs. We provide traceability assurance for all our greasy wool and we process it all here in Italy. We are also accredited with Associazione Tessile e Salute and we participate in the textile and health project funded by the Italian Ministry of Health. This is aimed at protecting the health of people, guaranteeing to the end consumer the safety and the transparency of the textile-clothing products they receive.’ ‘Most of our clients have been coming to us for more than 30 years and because of our standard types, most of them don’t even ask for a sample - delivery goes straight through because the quality of our wool products is so consistent. ‘We are seeing more customers from Europe and interested in our products, comments Mr Zedda. Piercarlo Zedda and Giovanni Zedda can be contacted by email at pantex@pantex-spa.it

ONE-STOP-SHOP FOR BUYERS OF WOOL & TOP

PANTEX S.p.A.

SETTING THE STANDARD IN QUALITY

T O P S

O PE N TO P S SCOURED & CARBONISED WOOL RAW & CARBONISED WOOL

N O I L S A N D WA S T E S

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ITALY

new president and vice president elected for Italian Wool Trade Association

Left to right: newly elected President Piercarlo Zedda, retiring President Mario Ferrarone and newly appointed Vice-President Giovanni Schneider

talian Wool Trade Association (IWTA) has elected Piercarlo Zedda as President. Mr Zedda is joint director of Pantex and

Vice president of IWTO. Giovanni Schneider was elected Vice President, following in the footsteps of his grandfather. The Association is in its 96th year. Today there are 30 members and it has attracted members from not just Italy but from Switzerland, UK, Germany, France and Turkey.

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The first meeting of the Biella Association of Representatives and Merchants of Textile Raw Materials was held in 1920 under President Silvio Reda and Chief Executive Guglielmo Ferrarone. Since that time the Association has had many Presidents including Giovanni Schneider snr from 1956-1959 and long servicing president Eugenio Scola, from 19842007. A new president is elected every 2 years with a maximum tenure of six years.

ITALY

Italian agent offers variety of stock

e supply scoured wools from New Zealand, scoured and carbonised wools from Australia and customers can contact us for their particular requirement types. I would be very happy to speak with new customers to help them determine the most suitable wool for their requirements’, says Mauro Delorenzi of Grey Stone Wools. The company is well known as a supplier of all wool and wool top of all origin, as well as noble fibres. ‘We are always interested in establishing contact with exporters of wool and speciality fibre and manufacturers of tops and noils from around the world.’

Mauro Delorenzi

Mr Delorenzi has recently been elected onto the executive committee of the Associazione Nazionale del Commercio Laniero (Italian Wool Trading Association). He will hold his position for the next two years. Grey Stone Wools is based in Biella and is a long standing member of this Association. ‘We play an active role in Italian wool trade and our company provides a quick and reliable supply of tops, open tops, scoured and carbonised wools from all origins as well as noble fibers such as dehaired cashmere and dehaired cashmere tops and angora from our office in Biella.’ ‘We can assist customers by sourcing the fibre they need for manufacture of any type of product including coarser types to finer types and in most instances we can deliver within days if prompt delivery is required.’ For more information Mauro Delorenzi can be contacted in Biella Tel. 039 015 8497172 E. mauro@gw-srl.it wool2yarnglobal 2016

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SPAIN

tapping into spanish wool

Pablo Cuesta (left) and Juan Antonio Cuesta view wool delivered to their Salamanca warehouse

rices for Australian, South African and other quality wools have been steady at relatively high levels and as a result some buyers have turned their attention toward other sources. Spanish wool offers a good alternative

for wool processors everywhere. ‘Although the characteristics of Spanish merino are different to Australian and South African merino wool it does offer alternative advantages to processors worldwide’, says Pablo Cuesta, joint director at Lanas Cuesta. ‘Our Spanish wool has been gaining in popularity with customers around the world and we have been responding to this increased demand. Our handling procedures in relation to shipping and transportation are well established, enabling hassle free and speedy delivery’, he says. Lanas Cuesta exports greasy wool, scoured wool, noils and wool top to Europe, Africa, Asia and America. Company directors Juan Antonio Cuesta and Pablo Cuesta are well known to the European wool trade and have some 30

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SPAIN

years of experience in trading and processing European wools. The company works with all kinds of wools, but principally Spanish wool from 22 microns up to 37 microns, and specializes in Spanish merino wool from 22.5 to 23.5 microns with a length of between 56 to 60 mm. It exports wool that is 100% pure wool and can also supply French and Portuguese wool if required. ‘Currently our main export product is greasy merino wool in the range of 23-24 microns. We always provide test certificates to our clients from Wool Testing Authority Europe. These tests include micron, yield and vegetable matter information’, says Pablo Cuesta. Lanas Cuesta sources its wool direct from

farmers and farm co-operatives, predominantly from the south of Spain, as well as sourcing wool from the Salamanca region where good wool is grown. It has warehouses throughout Spain with experienced and dedicated staff who classify the wool. ‘When a customer requires a specific wool type, that we may not have in stock, we can source this wool for them as required’, says Mr Cuesta. ‘We can also arrange for wool washing services on behalf of our customers’. ‘We welcome enquiries from wool buyers that are interested in tapping into our experience in the wool trade’, says Pablo Cuesta, joint director. For more information about the products and services offered by Lanas Cuesta please contact Pablo Cuesta at lanascuesta@lanascuesta.com

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TURKEY

cost effective solution from Turkey Turkey is an established wool producing country. Recent figures show that there are currently around 34 million sheep in Turkey. The Greasy Equivalent KG from Turkey this past season was 430,579, up 0.2% on the previous season of 404,506, a change of 26,073 or 6.4%.

urkish company Akel Tekstil has supplied Turkish and Romanian scoured wool to international customers for many years. Its greasy and scoured wools are in the 22 - 40 micron range. ‘We produce good quality scoured wool and compete in both quality and price with the best processors around the world’, says Omer Ozden joint director. ‘We are the only Turkish company to supply 20.2 micron scoured wool, approved by an accredited wool testing house report.’ ‘We have been supplying scoured wool to Italian, Portuguese and Belgium manufacturers for many years’, says Baris Gelenbe of Akel Tekstil from his Istanbul office. The company also supplies manufacturers of top, bedding covers and mattresses, as well as fake fur products, and fabric, carpet and rugs manufacturers. ‘We have the knowledge and expertise to advise our customers on the best wools for their particular manufacturing needs’, says Mr Gelenbe. ‘We can supply these wools, some of which are used for blending to reduce cost.

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Akel’s scouring plant in Usak is kept busy with a steady flow of Turkish and Romanian wool as well as a variety of European wool and wools from Australia, New Zealand and Britain. The wool is sorted and processed on commission, as well as for the company’s own use. The company has a scouring capacity of 25 metric tons per day with two scouring lines. The scouring lines now have 8, 2 metre wide pools and dust machines. The result is a better quality output. AKEL has the capacity to supply 3500MT scoured wool & 5000MT greasy wool per annum. Large warehousing facilities complement this scouring facility. ‘We can transport orders to clients with ease and speed whether they are in Europe, the Middle East, USA, or Asia because Turkey is so well located. It is close enough that we can also travel quickly to clients to see first-hand what machinery is being used and what product is being manufactured, to clearly determine the best scoured wool for each individual client and each individual order’, says Mr Gelenbe. ‘We are happy to send small shipments if needed and work with customers both big and small. The wool we deliver is always as per sample and we stand by the quality of our wool’. To find out more about the wools supplied by Akel Tekstil please contact Baris Gelenbe at woolakel@gmail.com/wool@akelwool.com

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BEDDING

SPB

niche markets choose for quality bedding products

omentum for wool in bedding around the world, and in particular in South Korea is on the increase. ‘Our South Korea customers choose our wool as a best choice option for their bedding’, says Albert Chippendale Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB) Bradford UK. Wool treated at SPB processing plant is destined for use in high end bedding products including mattresses, duvets, and pillows around the world and to well established markets around the world. Trends include wool waddings for mattresses

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and wool balls for bedding which are in high demand from manufactures who value the ease of use and added resilience for fillings in doonas and quilts. SPB has been treating wool for use in bedding products using a tried and proven method for many years and the veracity of its success is clear. ‘We know European wools and we know how to get the best out of European wools. Sending wool to Asia is not the most cost effective way to achieve the best result in treated wool’, maintains Mr Chippendale.

SPB is a commission processing company with a long established and loyal clientele. ‘Our customers are exacting in their requirements and their ongoing business points to our ability to deliver a quality product to this sophisticated niche market. Customers can send their wool to us for treatment with confidence that their wool will be processed to their specification. We have a quick turnaround time and customers usually receive their product back within days’, he says. SPB uses Superwash treatment for tops and loose wool. The company was one of the first companies in the UK to receive approval under stringent European legislation as an integrated pollution prevention and control plant. ‘We have developed our own process to render the wool machine washable without the use of chlorine. However, even chlorine treated wool from our plant contains less chlorine than drinking water!’, he points out. ‘Our treatment out-performs other shrink proofing techniques’. This system eliminates inconsistencies in earlier wool shrink proofing processes. The superior results include improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties and reduced pilling, especially for fine sweaters, hosiery, underwear and knitting yarns. A finished product made from shrink resistant wool can exceed the equivalent of 50 domestic washing cycles without any deterioration due to compacting or felting and can prolong its life considerably. ‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are also registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK. Our products are independently tested and certified by OEKO TEX. This independent system for textile products from all stages of production from fibre to yarn to fabric is particularly important for bedding manufacturers as many of our products are used in children’s bedding. ‘We offer a personal service to our customers and welcome enquiries from companies big and small’. For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality.processors@btopenworld.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

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BEDDING

counting sheep with Nishikawa living

ot many companies can say they have been in business since 1566. Nishikawa Living Japanese bedding manufacturer based in Osaka is such a company, with more than 450 years of experience in futons and other bedding products. Pioneers in the use of wool Nishikawa Living creates innovative products in comfortable sleep and home relaxation, including pillows, blankets, and baby products that are functional and fashionable. ‘Our high end futons sell for 2.5 million Japanese Yen per piece. The product uses rare down feathers from Iceland. These feathers are used to keep eggs warm during the incubation process and only a small quantity is available each year. ‘We also use very fine merino wool 100% yarn of 2/120nm 16.5mic, for warp and weft, for this duvet fabric and we believe we are the first in the world to achieve this quality. We preserve our proud tradition in superb quality and have evolved our product line to include home furnishings and made to order seating systems for the disabled’, says a company spokesperson. Attractive home furnishings can also be functional tools and Nishikawa Living is using its expertise to assist an aging population achieve the best level of sleep and comfort possible. ‘We have developed new technology in our mattresses to reduce pressure and help good blood flow that will provide the best balance and hold a better natural posture during sleep. We have also made some change in material, anti-sweat foam is one

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example’, says Nishikawa Living spokesperson. Nishikawa Living’s design department develops its wide variety of home relaxation products with advanced technical features. It strives to achieve products that go beyond the traditional concept of bedding products and it is grabbingthe attention of hospitals and hotels looking for products withfunctionality and health benefits. The company’s laboratory is used to study factors affecting quality of sleep, including light, sound, pressure, temperature, and humidity. ‘These factors that can prevent good sleep are overcome with good design and good quality products. This is the basis for our motivation and innovation at Nishikawa Living’. The companyuses Australian Pol Dorset carbonized wool in their wool futon/quilt and is collected from sheep raised at their farm just outside Melbourne. Argo International, Japanese wool agent, has consulted and sourced this wool for Nishikawa Living as well as material for the 100% merino wool duvet fabric. Argo International is a gateway for wool and speciality fibre companies from outside Japan to establish connections with Japanese manufacturers. ‘We work closely with manufacturers of the finest fabrics, manufacturers of industrial textiles, bedding manufacturers, and manufacturers in the cosmetic and chemical industries’, says Aki Ogura, President of Argo International.

BEDDING

Wool’s “breathability” & insulating properties key to better sleep

ioneering research conducted by the University of Leeds (UK) reveals that wool bedding boosts the chances of a good night’s sleep by 67%. The study commissioned by The Wool Room and conducted by the University of Leeds Performance textiles and clothing research group, led by senior lecturer Ningtao Mao, pitted commercially available feather/down duvets against polyester and wool to examine their thermal insulation properties and moisture management, factors essential to keeping us cool and preventing a disturbed night’s sleep. Wadding samples of each duvet were pre-conditioned under two environments: in the cooling down phase from a temperature of 70C and in the warming up phase of an environment of 17oC and 45% relative humidity – considered to be the ideal settings for the average bedroom. In both environments, it was found that the wool duvet performed significantly better at managing moisture over an 8 hour period than both polyester and feather/down duvets. Moisture management was tested by measuring the water vapour resistance of each sample of wadding, a higher score indicates a fibre that traps moisture, leaving it unable to escape and causing a build-up of heat with subsequent waking. Feather/down wadding allowed the least amount of water to escape, with

wool allowing 43% more moisture transmission than polyester and a massive 67% more than feather down duvets. When testing thermal insulation, wool was found to reach 35.1oC, the optimum temperature for sleep, faster than feather/ down and polyester bedding. It was also found to maintain this temperature constantly while feather/down and polyester took far longer to reach 35.1oC and were unable to maintain this, regularly reaching 36.1oC and above. Sweating Guarded Hot Plate technology allowed the wadding to be tested in conditions that mimic the human body during the night. When applied to a typical night’s sleep, higher temperatures lead to increased moisture levels produced by perspiration. The maximum sweating rate that can be coped with by wool wadding is higher than both tested polyester and feather down, meaning that wool can diffuse a larger amount of moisture across an 8 hour period. Overall, wool was found to let the most moisture escape and remain at a consistent optimum temperature when compared to feather/down and polyester duvets. Testing at two different temperatures also allowed the conclusion that these benefits are down to the fibre properties and structures of wool rather than the thickness of the duvets. wool2yarnglobal 2016

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reach decision makers in all sectors of the textile industry Advertising in wool2yarnglobal & wool2yarnChina magazines: • business to business trade directories - readership over 38,000 in more than 60 countries worldwide • protect your market share and reinforce your position as a preferred supplier to your existing clients • attract new business - by promoting your company and its products to this targeted readership • cost effective way to reach new clients and your existing customer base • place an advertisement and a Company Profile article - to tell buyers why they should buy from you and not from your competition • these magazines are kept and referred to by our readers as a buyers’ guide for their purchasing needs for the year ahead • published only once each year (September) - don’t miss this once a year opportunity - book your advertising space now

If you require any further information please contact: Victor Chesky at victorch@bigpond.com

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URUGUAY Rantex holds its position amongst major exporters of Uruguayan wool

hina remains dominant as a purchaser of greasy, scoured, and wool tops from Uruguay. ‘The export environment for Uruguayan wool to China has been a challenge this year’, says Richard Seizer, President at Rantex. China has slowed its buying especially in coarser wool types between 26-30 microns, that in previous years was under extreme demand and is the main production in Uruguay (corrediale breed). ‘However, during recent months we have seen reasonable demand for our finer wool types in 22.5 micron and finer, and at increasing prices’, he says. This season the demand from Europe and Eastern Europe has been more positive. ‘At Rantex we have a good reputation for providing a quick and personal service, quality products and an extensive knowledge and experience in Uruguayan wool’. The company exports around 50% of all Uruguayan greasy and scoured wool and buys direct from farmers, Consignee Houses and local traders. The Rantex premises include a warehouse and scouring facility with a capacity of 30 tons of greasy wool per day. The wool is being classified and sorted fleece by fleece. The result is grading by style and micron in a wide range. The micron achieved is between 19 to a maximum of 33 / 35 micron.

Richard Seizer (Centre), and MaximilianoSeizer and Alejandro Seizer inspecting scoured lamb’s wool in their new office in Montevideo

‘Our individual approach and way of processing is something that is not usual these days, but is certainly appreciated by our clients’, says Mr. Seizer. Rantex can class, sort and press pack around 35 tons of greasy wool per day. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client whether they require greasy or scoured wool. We are very competitive on the world stage’.

September / October to April / May to be certain that they receive the wool that they require’. Rantex also operates a grease extraction facility, adding wool grease to its list of export products and complies with effluent treatment protocols according to Uruguayan regulations. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client, whether they need greasy or scoured wool, while maintaining environmental considerations’.

The availability of most wool types in Uruguay is seasonable, so at the end of each season there is often little wool left. ‘We work to ensure customers get the wool they need all year round so we do urge them to be aware that it is better to place their orders early in the season

‘Companies interested in importing greasy wool, scoured wool and wool grease from Uruguay are welcome to contact us’, says Richard Seizer. wool@rantex.com.uy

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demand grows for high quality Uruguayan wool

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ruguayan greasy wool continues to be in demand from buyers around the world. Estancias Puppo exports greasy wool directly from the farms to customers in China. Other main destinations are Europe and India.

‘We repack the wool at our warehouse into export bales’, says D´jalma Puppo. ‘We do not blend different categories. The classification has already been made at the farms and the different categories are exported as they come from the farms’.

‘Our customers appreciate that the wool they receive come directly from farms,’ says D´jalma Puppo. Estancias Puppo only exports wools awarded as “green label”.

‘An important characteristic to highlight in Uruguayan wools is that the sheep are not mulesed and this provides an alternative increasingly sought by high quality end users’.

The green label is a mark of distinction in shearing and sorting work, in accordance with the code of practice laid out by SUL (Uruguayan Wool Secretariat).

Estancias Puppo exports greasy wool from 17 – 25,5 microns. According to D´jalma Puppo VM is very low, below 0.3%, because the sheep graze on natural pastures with an average

URUGUAY

Schlumberger dry yield of 77%, no coloured or dark fibres and no contaminants of any kind. ‘Although we are exporting large volumes, we still run a family company with a personal touch when dealing with our customers, big or small. We take particular care with contracts and we manage the tracability of each wool order’. ‘Our shipments are usually arranged within a week of selling contract confirmation as wool for export is already in stock at our warehouse’. ‘We are very interested in promoting knowledge in our wools’, says D´jalma Puppo. ‘We welcome buyers from Asia and Europe to come and visit our farm, see our beautiful countryside, and natural wool production for themselves’.

D’jalma and Margarita Puppo with wools (17 to 25.5 mic) low VM and non-mulesed

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Dr. Pietro Prosino

Prosino - ring specialist

ROSINO’S mission is to increase productivity in spinning by using its high quality spinning rings, comments Dr Pietro Prosino, CEO PROSINO / Borgosesia Rings, from the company head office in Italy. Rings are one of the most important components on a spinning machine. Their geometric precision and their surface quality, on which the traveller runs, are crucial for achieving an optimal performance. The hardness of the ring and the quality of the raw material used to manufacture the rings also significantly affect their life span. When, due to wear and tear over time, the geometry of the ring is altered and the surface has lost its initial characteristics (e.g. level of roughness), the coefficient of friction between ring and traveller starts to change (especially between rings). The tension differences that are generated require an increase in weight of the traveller with increased possibility of breakage and less control over the spinning process. For this reasons PROSINO manufacture rings with maximum ring life, constant yarn tension, minimum level of yarn imperfections and hairiness, and minimum level of yarn breakages during the spinning process. ‘Keeping frame performance at the highest level and maintaining optimum yarn quality standards is fundamental 176

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to profitable yarn production’, says Dr Pietro Prosino. ‘Our Steel Conical Rings provide extra strength and speed and are a solution to reduce yarn breakage, reduce yarn hairiness, and provide a longer lasting life to our customers machinery and therefore reduces additional cost in the long-run.’ PROSINO started to manufacture spinning rings in 1946. Today it supplies to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) companies including ZINSER, COGNETEX, and GAUDINO. It also supplies spinning rings to top end spinners such as Sudwolle-Safil, Zegna Baruffa, Reda, XinAo and many others. Daniel Lippuner CEO of Saurer Group (owner of the Zinser brand) , world leader in spinning machinery says, ‘customers often request a certain brand of ring. Very often they demand Prosino rings because they value their quality and durability’. Roberto Aponi, CEO of Cognetex, a major supplier of spinning machines in the worsted sector says, ‘I entrust entirely PROSINO when it comes to spinning rings’. PROSINO has a yearly production of 9.000.000 rings. It specialized in spinning ring manufacturing and marketing for any frames operating in the market for long and short staple fibre. It provides spinners with custom made

products, technical coatings, and engineering solutions for all types of yarn. ‘Many spinning mills around the world rely on our quality products’, comments Dr Prosino. ‘Our Steel Conical Rings have been used for decades by the most prestigious of textile machinery manufacturing companies. They can perform for years under high alternate traveler loads.’ ‘The exceptional performance of our rings continues to be achieved because of the latest innovation in manufacturing and close co-operation with yarn manufacturers all around the world. This has resulted in the development of a special conical/concave running path with an extremely smooth surface, in order to allow the best ring/traveler contact. The special low-roughness polish finish assures a consistent performance’, he says. Longtime customer REDA has relied on PROSINO rings for many years. ‘We have always opted for Prosino rings because we need a stable and reliable supplier. Prosino has always demonstrated an ability to listen to the needs of yarn producers and develop high quality rings that meet their requirements’, says Francesco Botto Poala, REDA CEO. The raw material used in manufacturing PROSINO spinning rings is 100Cr6 ball bearing steel. PROSINO supplies a complete range of ring holders and ringrails for the short and long staple segment, as well as sintered metal rings for technical textiles including carpet, fiber glass, synthetic fibers. The “4+4” Lubrication System ensures that the right amount of lubrication is released, not too much and not too little. This specific“4+4”micro holes lubrication system, ensures that every 45° the traveler finds the perfect amount of oil – brought on the ring surface by 100% selected wool wicks – in order to run smoothly for a number of years. ‘Best performance in manufacturing is our goal, and we have been working on it for over 70 years. We offer a continuously evolving range of products. Our client base appreciate the reliability, flexibility and innovation that our rings provide’, says Dr Prosino. For more information Dr Prosino can be contact at pprosino@prosino.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

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GN8 intersecting for the finest of fibres

innovation offers high productivity in spinning preparation ‘Demand from our customers to improve worsted spinning for wool and any kind of woollike fibre such as cashmere and silk has led us to develop our new GC40 chain gills and GN8 intersecting machine’, says Patrick Strehle director of commercial sales for nsc fibre to yarn.

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‘We expect this new technology to be very well

process fibre in the range of 18 - 25 microns.

received by manufacturers worldwide as it is so

The GC40 chain gills are used for converting -

versatile. It can be used in defelting, blending,

stretch breaking defelting - dyeing - blending

combing, recombing spinning preparation,

combing - recombing spinning preparation

semi worsted process for wool, cashmere, any

- semi-worsted process for wool, long staple

long staple chemical fibres as well as flax tow,’

chemical fibres and flax tow. It uses high

comments Patrick Strehle. It is dedicated to

performance drafter speed of up to 600m/

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min, and offers a high level of productivity and textile quality, as well as optimal textile control at high speed. It utilises a cleaning system, drafting head with a light moving assembly, and low maintenance costs. ‘Our GN8 intersecting machine has been designed to process any wool or wool-like fibre’, says Mr Strehle. ‘It is particularly adapted to process delicate, fine and short fibres such as cashmere, silk, and any kind of fibres with low cohesion’. The GN8 offers a revolutionary intersecting design based on the latest technology in chain gill drives combined with the universal drafting head in the GN series. The GN8 head sits in a double pinned field with fallers driven by double threaded screws giving a mechanical speed up to 2,000 drops per minute. It can be equipped with an electronic auto leveller RE type. Lines with GN8 intersecting are particularly adapted to units with small lots.

Patrick Strehle with machinery being assembled for delivery to a customer in Eastern Europe

nsc fibre to yarn offers a complete range of long staple roller cards including worsted cards, semi-worsted cards, and flax cards. The new cards have a new frame with a totally new concept. ‘We have developed very sturdy frameworks. The reinforced structure of the roller has a large working width. It works quietly and is equipped with double safety controls on the feeding drives’, says Mr Strehle. This card also offers a high capacity volumetric feeder hopper with oscillating stripper, feeding rollers with variable speed drives, and removable undergrids. The drive control provides for a speed adjustable from desk control. This latest machine has a very high production capacity. It combs at more than 50kg per hour for a 21/22 micron wool and in recombing 2.5 - 3 kg per hour for grey wool. It guarantees a high quality of combing and is very gentle to the fibre. It can increase productivity by 25%.

Long Staple Card

‘This machine achieves a high degree of productivity and efficiency and provides easy maintenance and access. It is very compact and simple to use, robust and reliable. It also has a very easy maintenance program,’ he says. According to Mr Strehle the latest innovation introduced into the textile machinery industry allows manufacturers to stay one step ahead of their competition. The new machines provide excellent quality output, and the cost savings offered in energy consumption provide an attractive option to wool processors. ‘We provide fast installation service for all of our machines’, he concludes. For more information please contact - Patrick Strehle at patrick.strehle@nsc.fr wool2yarnglobal 2016

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RF5E vertical finisher takes centre stage at ITMA

ant’Andrea Textile Machines exhibit the new electronic finisher RF5E and a completely new 2m blending machine at the October ITMA Shanghai. ‘The major changes in the new RF5 machinery is the gearbox that is now fully electronic’, says Marco Ploner, who recently joined the company as managing director. ‘All machines are now completely electronic and there are no manual parts. The adjustments to speed can be made at just the press of a button, without stopping the machine’. The RF5E vertical rub apron finisher prepares the long fibres for spinning. Its working speed and excellent mechanical reliability make the RF5 series the leading equipment in terms of efficiency and quality results. The RF5E finisher is available in two versions. The RF5a version is recommended for medium/fine and extra-fine counts, for wool

The increase in the drafting values significantly improve the evenness of processed material. The lower sleeve on the intermediate rollers improves the fibre control and prevents lappings, even at high speed (up to 400m/min)

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and noble fibres. The RF5b version is suitable for medium/large counts in wool and synthetic fibres. If you have an RF5 this can now be equipped with a high-accuracy electronic traversing device. The device works by varying the twister’s traversing speed as a function of the bobbin’s diameter. The allows for optimal winding and results in maximum bobbin cohesion and compactness. In addition, the perfect roving crossing prevents loosening and therefore avoids the formation of marriages during unwinding in spinning. In case of roving breakage or incorrect winding the delivery control photoelectric cells stop the machine. The machines can be fitted with an optional count detector. To achieve optimal operation and improve machine productivity the pergola-type creel is located in a frontal position, away from the

TEXTILE MACHINERY

The elastic nipping drafting assembly allows high drafting values with Ulster evenness

operating area. The RF5E is safe and practical to operate. The machine controls are adjusted from the same position. The frontal creel reduces working distance and has international safety standard compliance. When a door is open the machine may only work in ‘jog’ mode, using the nearest pushbutton.

RF5E also provides large delivery bobbins and special equipment for cashmere wool. For further information contact Silvio Givone silvio.givone@santandreatm.it

‘Another exciting development in the new vertical finisher that we are working on’, says Silvio Givone Sales Director, ‘is the increased number of bobbins that will be accommodated. There will be an increase of 4 bobbins to 28 bobbins, up from the 24 bobbin machine currently available’, he says. ‘At Sant’Andrea we pay attention to the details’, he says, ‘and that really does make a difference. Our design provides for double rubbing for the perfect combining of the delivered sliver, eliminating any false draft, as well as simple maintenance that the modular working sections provide, and independent and interchangeable rubbing heads. The

Marco Ploner Managing Director of Sant’ Andrea Textile Machines

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Combs produced for NSC machinery

combs for all machines The textile machinery industry for combing, preparation, and twisting of wool and synthetic fibres has been moving forward with steady innovation to enhance the quality of production, saving in energy, and to meet the stringent demands that textile machinery manufacturers work under today.

lthough there is a variety of combs available in the market Coppa Biella combs have been used in all types of machines for over 50 years. The Coppa Biella factory, in Biella Italy, manufactures combs that are made from the highest quality steel using highly accurate processes and the most modern machines. The company manufactures combs for NSC, Sant’Andrea, OKK, and Cognetex machines. Manufacturers around the world can order combs specific to the machinery they have at their plant. ‘We can make combs to specific order for individual machines’, says Mario Ploner, ‘and we will delivery anywhere around the world’. 182

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‘We work closely with leading textile machinery manufacturers to produce the best performing and the longest lasting combs for any machinery, but in particular, for linen and woollen fibres. Such collaboration has cemented Coppa Biella’s position as a preferred supplier to all manufacturers of textile machinery for spinning preparation for long fibres.’ Head-treatments are carried out by the most up-to-date technology and the product undergoes the most rigorous tests. This guarantees that Coppa Biella products have longevity, durability, minimum maintenance and simple needle replacement. For more information: commerciale@coppabiella.it

staying ahead of your competition

SRL

rrespective of how successful your business is today communicating with new buyers is important to stay ahead of your competition. It is also important to constantly remind your existing customers that continuing to buy from you, not your competitor, is a benefit to them as well. If telling 5000 companies around the world about what your company can offer sounds like an impossible task advertise in wool2yarn global and reach them all. This magazine is circulated to buyers in more than 58 countries worldwide. It is a trade directory that is published once each year (September). Member of Beppe Ploner Group

It is circulation to 5000 textile companies including importers of wool and speciality fibres, wool processors and topmakers, manufacturers of yarn, carpets and rugs, spinners and weavers, cloth and garment manufacturers including major brand names and major retail chains. Many of these companies keep this publication and refer to it for their purchasing decisions over the coming year. The next issue of wool2yarn global will be published in September 2017. Companies wishing to find out more about advertising opportunities should contact Victor Chesky, Editor by email at victorch@bigpond.com or visit www.wool2yarnglobal.com wool2yarnglobal 2016

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spinners attracted to 30% power use reduction needed, customer can save up to 30% on their power costs, a 10% increase in productivity, a smoother winding process and overall superior package and yarn quality are alsoachieved.

Mauro Moro

co PulsarS automatic winder attracted a lot of attention at the latest ITMA. This new automatic winder is the latest innovation in spinning technology. It is manufactured by Savio, a leading supplier of winding, twisting and rotor spinning machines. Savio operates manufacturing plants in Italy, Czech Republic, India and China. ‘To maintain competiveness and to reduce running costs, spinning mills need to look at the latest innovations in textile machinery’, says Mauro Moro Commercial Director at Savio based in Italy. Savio’s core business in winding technological includes the Eco PulsarS, an innovative sustainable automatic winding machine, and Multicone, a state-of-the-art drumless digital yarn layering technology that includes the Volufil Multicone automatic winder for continuous shrinkage, bulking and heat setting. ‘The Eco PulsarS ticks so many boxes. It saves up to 30% in power, reduces yarn waste, air conditioning costs and noise inside the spinning room. It is fully automatic offering substantial savings in labour costs,’ says Mr Moro. ‘It is also sustainable and eco-green.’ Suction represents 75% of the total energy usein the winding machine. EcoPulsarS’s solution to the individual and independent suction unit per spindle represents a real break-through versus the conventional system. Each unit operates at optimum suction values without influencing the rest of the spindles. In addition, independent suction systems are provided to the auxiliary devices for fully automatic machines. This means no more compromises in balancing the suction as in conventional centralized systems, where the fan is permanently in operation. As suction is generated only when

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Production of waste is another important issue for spinning mills. EcoPulsarS’s waste collection and separation is endowed with an innovative cyclonic system. Every single suction fan collects its spindle yarn waste and dust in a dedicated suction box. When required,the individual spindle waste is roomed through a centralized pneumatic transportation, to guarantee the cleaning with the lowest energy consumption. The waste collection system provides the separation of the yarn from dust, allowing a great eco-green advantage. Therefore yarn waste can be recycled and reused inside the spinning production process, improving the collection and handling in order to reuse as much as possible. A reduction in noise is another key advantage. The individual suction per winding head, which operates only when needed, contributes to a sensible noise reduction in the winding room, versus the conventional suction system in the continuous operation. Spindle and bobbin feeding systems independently set the level of suction required. Suction is generated as needed and used without losses. The new Controlled Cut System, Yarn Tension Control System, Waste Collection & Separation System and Upgraded Splicing Solutions, each contribute to the overall reduction of noise and process downtimes. ‘The rising energy prices, affecting fuel and electricity, have caused soaring costs, thus reducing the competiveness of textile products in some domestic markets’, says Mr Moro. ‘Eco PulsarS automatic winder goes a long way in reducing these costs’.

Member of Beppe Ploner Group

TEXTILE MACHINERY

the worsted yarn industry and Zinser: a perfect symbiosis machine that is prepared for compact spinning and can be retrofitted without difficulty. The Zinser 451 Impact FX provides the customer access to the entire world of compact spinning. Additional options such as FancyDraft, FancyDesigner, CoreSpun and SiroSpun, enable new yarns to be added to the product portfolio at any time.

The Zinser 451 series of machines has been a market leader in worsted yarn spinning for many years. Ralph Knecht, General Manager of Saurer Zinser comments that the benefits of the Zinser 451 family of machines are by no means the product of chance. ‘They are the result of a targeted, customer-oriented product development process. We set our development engineers clear targets. Zinser machines give our customers unique and measurable benefits. The challenges that face our customers today – and above all tomorrow – form the blueprint for our product development. Our aim is to offer our customers sustainable and efficient solutions and to create a perfect symbiosis between the worsted yarn industry and our textile machines.’ ‘Zinser 451 is a flexible family of machines that is always able to offer worsted yarn spinning mills the optimal solution – no matter what the individual requirements,’ says Ralph Knecht. The worsted yarn industry is not an easy customer for a textile machinery manufacturer. While some spinning mills process acrylic for hard-wearing knitting or carpet yarns, others use the finest cashmere to create superior compact worsted yarn for big-name fashion labels. ‘Our customers include not only commodity spinning mills that work with high volumes and low margins, but also Italian wool spinning mills that manufacture unrivalled quality products for a very small circle of exclusive customers on Zinser 451 Impact FX machines. With the different models in the Zinser 451 family, every worsted yarn spinning mill is able to find the ideal solution.’ The basic machine is the Zinser 451 for conventional ring spinning. Based on the Zinser 451, the 451+ ring spinning machine is a conventional worsted yarn ring spinning 186

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‘Today’s worsted yarn spinning mills must be able to respond quickly to market and fashion trends,’ says the General Manager of Saurer Zinser. ‘The Zinser 451 is so flexible that our customers are always a step ahead of the competition in their respective markets. Worsted yarn spinning mills throughout the world, such as Südwolle Group, Erdos Cashmere Group, Indorama Holdings and many others have worked for years with the Zinser 451. ‘The drive concept of the Zinser 451, the unique and proven drafting system, and the optimal spinning geometry ensure absolute precision and a consistently reproducible yarn quality. This also applies to compact spinning, which is used primarily for quality yarns. The Zinser 451 Impact FX is a self-cleaning compact technology unaffected by wool grease, textile lubricants, and finishing agents. Maximum process reliability and top quality are therefore guaranteed – even with dyed combed yarns’, continues Mr Knecht. With its intuitive menu navigation, the EasySpin touchscreen is user-friendly and forms the ideal interface between human and machine. All lot data can be set and stored centrally. The configuration can easily be copied to other machines via a USB stick. ‘Shorter changeover times, less downtime for maintenance, cleaning and error rectification ensure that Zinser offers more net profit in every shift and creates a perfect symbiosis with operating personnel’, states Ralph Knecht. Fully automated linked systems are also the solution of choice in the worsted yarn industry in situations where maximum productivity and maximum quality are required. ‘With winding machines from Schlafhorst, Zinser is the only one-stop supplier of linked system solutions for the worsted yarn industry. The linked system solution of ring or compact spinning machines from Zinser and Autoconer winding machine from Schlafhorst guarantees that the spun yarn quality is retained completely in the package’, he concludes.

WOOL TESTING

taking the guess work out of fabric comfort measurement

redicting comfort and softness in woollen fabric used to be guesswork. Now fabric manufacturers can accurately measure these qualities using two scientifically developed testing machines to do this job. The Wool ComfortMeter and Wool HandleMeter have been developed by the Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) and the CSIRO, the Australian government research body. ‘After a decade of research this new technology is now available for commercial use’, says a Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) spokesman in Melbourne. For the first time the wool industry has developed a scientific and objective method of measuring the comfort of fabric. Wool ComfortMeter and Wool HandleMeter have now been in use by manufacturers in China and in Europe for over a year’. The Wool ComfortMeter counts the number of fibres protruding from a fabric. These fibres have the potential to cause that prickly feeling and the resulting itch factor that can put off consumers from wearing woollen garments. The Wool HandleMeter overcomes the subjective judgement traditionally associated with a fabric’s ‘handle’ or its smoothness, softness, warm feel, dry feel, hairiness, tightness and perceived weight. The Wool ComfortMeter can be used by a retailer to test existing products or as part of their innovation and development process by specifying a preferred Wool ComfortMeter score to the supply chain partners. Retailers can monitor the consistency of a garment’s comfort quality by testing batch samples and comparing against the acceptable Wool ComfortMeter score, thus ensuring consistent quality in shipments and even from one season to the next. The biggest growth in the woollen

sector is next-to-skin garments and in particular, active sportswear. In areas of medical and babywear products the attributes of comfort is also extremely important. Ensuring that this next-to-skin garment is not prickly and is comfortable to the skin for long periods of time manufacturers will need to rely on more scientific testing procedures to measure fabric comfort. Yarn, fabric, and garment manufacturers are urged to invest in this new technology that is specifically designed for superfine and ultra fine merino wool. It will provide product consistency to retailers and manufacturers in quality across multiple batches. And more importantly, the objective data will allow the retailer to specify to the supplier, the exact comfort level required in their garments. HOW TO SPECIFY A COMFORT LEVEL

COMFORT COMFORT LEVEL DESCRIPTION LEVEL

Luxurious comfort

Wearer trials conclude 90% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin. A product in this range will provide the wearer with the indulgent comfort experience expected from a luxury brand offering. Wearer trials conclude 80% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin.

Premium comfort

A product in this range will provide the wearer with a premium wearer experience, suitable for leading high street brands and retailers offering premium quality.

To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a score of WCM 450 or lower.

To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score between 450 and 510.

Wearer trials conclude 70% of consumers find garments in this range comfortable when worn next-to-skin.

Everyday comfort

The product provides a comfortable, entry level garment for consumers wishing to experience the elite attributes of a Merino wool garment. Garments in this range have been associated with a minor sensation of prickle but from our research possibly not enough for the consumer to not like the fabric.

To source products that satisfy this comfort level specify a WCM score between 510 to 600.

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ITALY

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The Wool ComfortMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to develop and market next-toskin wool garments which are scientifically proven to offer a more comfortable wearer experience.

The Wool HandleMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to measure key garment handle attributes which means better next-to-skin wool knitwear products.

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WOOL TESTING

integrity and quality in wool testing by Victor Chesky

Major international wool buyers rely on wool testing certificates to purchase the appropriate wool for their processing needs. Today woolgrowers can receive a premium price for better quality wool and processors can buy specific wool types for their production. I caught up with Ian Ashman, Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) Raw Wool general manager in Melbourne to talk about the impact of wool testing and in particular, the importance of Objective Measurement.

Ian Ashman (left) with Research & Technical Manager David Crowe and Laboratory Controller Tome Spasevski (right) at the AWTA Laboratory in Melbourne

‘Our principle business has always been the certification of greasy wool for trading’, says Ian Ashman. ‘For more than 50 years we have been providing assurance to wool trading globally’. ‘The cost of purchasing wool with the wrong parameters can cost dearly during processing’, says Ian Ashman. ‘’Today the wool processing industry relies on wool testing certificates to ascertain how wool will perform during processing. Wool buyers and processors also rely on wool testing certificates to determine the value of individual farm lots. The value of measurements is clearly reflected in the 190

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premiums and discounts that are now paid, based on these measurements,’he says. Most processors today use a more diverse mix of combing wool types. It is essential that all lots purchased are tested for Staple Length and Strength. This is even more important in skirting types where the variability within sale lots will be higher than fleece types. Prices for these wools are high as demand increases and objective measurement tests become even more essential. Unlike core testing for yield and fibre diameter where bales are sampled using a core tube to cut

For Results you can Trust

WOOL TESTING

through the wool in the bale, Staple Length and Strength measurement utilises from full length wool staples and this initial sampling process takes place early on in broker stores. These measurements determine the value of combing wool and predict the average fibre length, which will be achieved after processing. This length is known as Hauteur. Also predicted is the variation of top fibre length (known as Coefficient of Variation of Hauteur or CVH).Research and trials over a 30 year period has shown that Hauteur is closely correlated to the staple length and staple strength of greasy wool. The overall benefit of objective measurements to the wool industry is great and what is certain is that they have transformed the way the industry operates and is indeed dependent upon these measurements. The certification process that AWTA undertakes includes supervision of all samples from the time they are taken from the bales

and is trusted by both the buyer and seller. AWTA is an independent wool testing house, IWTO licensed and is Interwoollabs accredited. ‘Buyers and sellers of Australian wool require a quick return of certified test results. At AWTA we offer three different levels of service to meet customer needs. The Express Service issues 95% of certificates the following morning of sampling, Fast Service issues 95% of certificates within 3 days of sampling, and the Normal Service issues all certificates within 5 days of sampling’. To achieve this quick service AWTA testing laboratories operate in Australia day and night, 5 days a week. Sampling is conducted in 38 cities and towns throughout Australia and many of these sampling locations are in remote locations across Australia. AWTA has introduced a number of additional services including electronic certification. ‘This certification provides an additional level of assurance and security to all sectors of the wool industry. Purchasers that use this electronic system can check the authenticity of the wool measurement certificates that they receive’, he says. The AWTA website provides a variety of information to users of Australian wool to assist them in understanding testing methods and technical aspects of Australian wool. The website includes information on testing raw wool, scoured and carbonised wool and speciality fibres such as Mohair, Alpaca and Cashmere. It also provides information on sampling, testing and certifying the yield, fibre diameter, and vegetable matter content, staple length and staple strength of greasy wool before it is sold. ‘The overall benefit of objective measurement has been great. It is clear that it has transformed the way the wool processing industry operates and relies on the information these measurements provide’, Ian Ashman concludes.

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WOOL TESTING

research in length and strength for crossbred wools provides benefits

he characteristics of length and strength are key factors in the price paid for greasy Crossbred wool because they are relevant to processing performance. Recent research at New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA) has shown that objective staple length and strength measurements can be performed on Crossbred wool using the same instrumentation and methodology as is currently applied to greasy Merino wool. The use of this test provides the industry with a reliable and cost-effective means of determining these key staple characteristics. ‘Work done at NZWTA has demonstrated that objective staple measurements of greasy Crossbred wool can be used to predict the processed length as determined by the Length after Carding Test on commercial consignments of scoured wool’, says Phil CranswickCustomer Services Manager at NZWTA. The trial used consignments

comprising almost 17,000 bales and covered a wide range of wool types seen in New Zealand wool. Models for predicting the Barbe and Hauteur lengths of scoured wool, as determined by the Length after Carding test have been developed. Predictions of Barbe and Hauteur were within 4mm of their actual measurements on approximately 80% of consignments. The models were proven to be robust through a cross-validation process.

Phil Cranswick

This information provides commercial exporters and processors with greater confidence that Crossbred wool purchased using objective measurements of staple length and strength can reduce the risk in meeting product performance specifications. This application has demonstrated considerable value to the Merino industry for many years and this added value can now be expected for the Crossbred sector.

ew Zealand Wool Testing Authority Trade Diaryis published each year and is used to connect the various sectors of the local industry and is widely used by a range of customers around the globe. It includes dates and rostered volumes of national wool auctions; a comprehensive list of NZWTA and wool industry contacts to assist local and international communications; and trends in testing statistics of New Zealand wool. It can also be accessed in electronic format via a smartphone, PC, iPad or tablet. ‘Customers can create a shortcut link to any page of the NZWTA website directly onto their smartphone. This provides instant access to all local wool industry contacts, latest testing statistics, NZWTA news, annual sale roster dates and its new MyWTA internet portal to access test results. To get your free copy please contact NZWTA on testing@nzwta.co.nz

WOOL TRADE DIARY 2016 – 2017

22 Bridge Street, PO Box 12065 Ahuriri, Napier 4144, New Zealand Phone: +64 6 835 1086, Fax: +64 6 835 6473 Email: testing@nzwta.co.nz Website: www.nzwta.co.nz www.nzwta.com

Setting the Standard in Wool and Textile Measurement

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setting the standards in testing and textile measurement by fax or email, to ensure they are genuine certificates. This process can be accessed on the website by entering the test number and the verification code from the copy of the certificate’, says Duane Knowles Chief Executivefrom the company laboratory in Napier.

Duane Knowles

esting certificate verification has been a popular service offered by New Zealand Wool testing Authority (NZWTA) through its website. ‘Our certificate verification has been well accepted with customers accessing it through our website. Purchasers of wool can verify the certificates they have been sent

A further initiative being rolled out by NZWTA is its MyWTA internet portal that enables wool testing customers to access their test results 24 hours a day, 7 days a week from their PC’s, smart-phones, iPads and tablets. The portal includes functionality designed to make it easier to follow tests through the laboratory and access results of completed tests. Seeing test results as they become available, printing and downloading certificates and invoices, initiating check-tests, re-issuing certificates can all be done in real time from anywhere that has internet access. The portal will maintain security so that only a client can access his or her own details. NZWTA is IWTO Licensed and Interwoollabs accredited, and offers sampling, testing and certification for the wool industry by performing core testing of greasy and scoured wool; staple length measurement on greasy wool; fibre length on scoured wool; fleece measurement on individual animals; and for the textile industry, providing a comprehensive range of tests covering fibres, fabrics, carpets, flammability and wool grease. ‘We have been making innovations to our website including a number of video presentations to illustrate a better understanding of the wool testing process’, says Duane Knowles. ‘We invite users of New Zealand Crossbred wools to view our website at www.nzwta.co.nz’.

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OFDA 4000 offers testing advancements to top makers

buyer can judge his activities safely and with confidence by improved feedback on fiber characteristics and processing performance; and furthermore, the spinning mill manager can systematically introduce remedial action instead of proceeding by trial and error.’

Mark Brims (right) at OFDA stand ITMA Milan 2015, with OFDA agents, L to R Livio Zuccolini, Herbert Hornik, and Girish Masand

he fibre and textile industry relies more and more on accurate measurement for the fibre it uses in its products. The instruments that can provide accurate measurement quickly and sometimes under difficult on-farm conditions, has allowed the wool, alpaca, cashmere, and other luxury fibre industries to better grade, and develop some amazing products as a result. OFDA4000 - measuring the fibre length directly provides a different view of your product than measuring hauteur, which is actually cross section biased length. Short fibre content can be very different when measured by length rather than by hauteur, and previously unexplained processing results may be resolved with the new measurements OFDA2000 and OFDA4000 technology provides testing equipment that is playing a vital role in both on-farm testing of greasy fibre and of top. Today there are more than 390 of these units in use in 30 countries worldwide.

‘The digital video technology of OFDA4000, allows the user to manage long thin places and short fibre content that affect product quality and profits. Now users can analyze not only the raw material, but also the entire spinning process’, says Mark Brims. The OFDA4000 can measure most fibre types, including wool, cashmere, mohair, silk and many synthetic fibres. OFDA4000 is the first instrument to measure length by direct optical means and as it does not use a capacitance based sensor it is able to accurately measure blends of different fibre types and different fibre diameter. Calculated Hauteur values are also provided for compatibility with previous technology. Optical length measurement is recommended for more accurate short fibre content and adjustment of processing machines to provide the best quality product.

‘The OFDA4000 is the world’s first instrument that measures length and diameter profile of fibres in top form’, says Mark Brims, inventor of OFDA technology and CEO of BSC Electronics that manufactures this instrument in Australia. ‘In one measurement using 1 minute of operator time, the values of diameter, diameter profile, curvature, length, hauteur and barbe can be determined.’ OFDA4000 is specifically recognised for measuring diameter and hauteur in test method IWTO-62.

According to Mark Brims the OFDA4000 offers a lower overall purchase and operation cost. ‘Cost size, and the weight of the system is lower than the 3 instruments that it replaces. And of course the system includes the latest software with full control via internet and is PC / Windows compatible. Five years free support via internet is included.

‘For textile mills, research institutes and arbitrators, the OFDA 4000 opens a world of possibilities never before available’, he says. ‘The

Mark Brims can be contacted by email at info@ofda.com

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BSC Electronics

WOOL TESTING

SGS introduces a new generation of automated tuft sampling equipment

n order to carry out staple length and strength testing on a lot of greasy wool, the grab sample taken from that lot at the broker’s store, needs to be sub-sampled into a series of at least 60 tufts. From these tufts individual staples can be prepared for testing.

out either by machine, or by hand using

Tuft sampling procedures are specified in IWTO test method 7, and can be carried

to comply with the test method, and which will

standardised procedures. Whilst machines have been widely used for some years in Australia, South Africa and New Zealand, these are of proprietary design and not available on the market. SGS has produced a new design become commercially available. The machine

Talk to 5000 buyers in China wool2yarnChina magazine is used by wool and textile companies around the world to advertise their products and services to the woollen industry in China. ‘This Chinese language publication is circulated to over 5000 major importers of wool and speciality fibres in China’, says Victor Chesky, Editor. ‘It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market to wool processing and topmaking mills, spinners and weavers, carpet and garment manufacturers, and government agencies and ministries in China.’

wool2yarnChina is also distributed to all delegates (600+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool market Conference, the major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China. A number of copies are also distributed to textile enterprises in Hong Kong and Taiwan. ‘This magazine provides exporters the opportunity to communicate to buyers in China, in their own language, breaking down any language barrier,’ says Mr Chesky. ‘For companies seeking new export business, advertising in wool2yarnChina will introduce their company to this targeted decision maker base in all sectors of the wool industry in China. For companies that have established customers in China, advertising

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in wool2yarnChina will reinforce their position as a preferred supplier to these existing customers, and will also introduce their company to new buyers.’ ‘wool2yarnChina is published in September each year and is a buyers’ guide that is used by our readers in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan as a reference tool for the following 12 months. If your company is interested in advertising in the 2015 issue of wool2yarnChina please contact us’. Mr Chesky can be contacted by email at victorch@bigpond.com

www.wool2yarnchina.com

WOOL TESTING

conveys the grab sample under a computercontrolled system that allows up to 9 tufts to be taken on each ‘stroke’. Whilst nominally designed to take 7 strokes over the sample, the machine counts the number of viable tufts and is capable of altering the sampling pattern to take an extra stroke of 9 tufts, should this be required. The tufts are separately deposited on a belt that is rolled to allow up to 12 samples to be accumulated before being sent to the laboratory. At the laboratory, the belt is unrolled across 4 staple preparation stations. Jeremy Wear, SGS’s Wool Testing Services’ manager, describes the machine as easy to operate, quiet, fast, and because it uses the latest in pneumatic and motor control technology, can be installed on a single phase

Automatic Tuft Sampler in operation

electrical supply. Whilst the machine is over 7m long to allow multiple samples to be laid out, the design allows the whole assembly to be easily folded to fit in a standard 20’ container for transport. Re-erection on a new site takes a matter of minutes.

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Wool Testing Bureau SA offers comprehensive range of testing services has direct benefits for buyers and processors, who can use the information to predict the processing performance of the product they purchase. Predictions, by means of the TEAM 3 formulas, allow mills to optimise raw wool inputs to meet the required specifications in the top’.

ll the wool sold at auction in South Africa is tested and certified by the Wool Testing Bureau (WTB). Samples are taken from all bales at wool broker sites under full time supervision by WTB to confirm the integrity of test certificates. During the testing process IWTO Regulations and Test Methods are followed closely to ensure accurate and consistent results. The main certified tests include yield and micron, fibre diameter, vegetable matter content and staple length and strength. ‘The number of yield and diameter tests for the 2015 season increased by 1.8% to 91600 tests’, says Wian Heath WTB Managing Director from the company head office in Port Elizabeth. ‘The adoption rate for staple length and strength tests has remained relatively stable at 60% of all lots tested. The application of additional objective measurements 200

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The Company is accredited to ISO 17025, which is a requirement for recognition as an IWTO Licensed Laboratory. ‘We are actively involved in IWTO to ensure the correct application of the latest technical standards relating to wool testing and certification within the Company and the local industry. Participation in proficiency testing programs such as Interwoollabs and the ILRT group enables the harmonisation of test results with other major international Test Houses’, he comments. WTB provides clients with electronic certificates to simplify and speed up the documentation process related to the sale and export of wool. These documents are available as encrypted, digitally signed PDF files. Buyers and processors can confirm the authenticity of certificates by using the online verification service available at http://verify.wtbsa.co.za. ‘We also offer a comprehensive range of top, yarn and apparel testing services in accordance to accredited test methods. These services include, amongst others, conditioning testing and fibre length testing’. Efforts to expand the income base of the Company into other areas have begun yielding positive results. Utilising the skills and equipment required to serve the textile industry has enabled the expansion of the customer base into the automotive and the fast moving consumer goods sectors.

Accuracy Efficiency Integrity

041 583 2195

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WOOL TESTING

testing UK and European wools

ool Testing Authority Europe Ltd (WTAE) is the Northern Hemisphere’s main wool testing laboratory and the only one to be fully licensed by the IWTO and hold full ISO 17025 accreditation from the UK Accreditation Service (UKAS).

Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Wool Authority CibynTesting Industrial Estate Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Cibyn UnitedIndustrial Kingdom Estate Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 United Kingdom Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 email : info@wtaeurope.com Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 wtaeurope.com email : info@wtaeurope.com wtaeurope.com

The laboratory is a member of the Independent Laboratory Round Trial Group (ILRT) which includes AWTA, NZWTA and WTB. An intensive program of round-trial testing within this group ensures that testing is controlled and harmonised across the World’s main wool testing laboratories. Wool shipments originating from across Europe and beyond are tested in the WTAE Laboratory facility based in Caernarfon, North Wales. The WTAE IWTO Certificates issued after testing are guarantees of wool quality, giving the buyer full confidence in the processing performance of the wool in the shipment. In addition to European testing, during the 2015-2016 season, WTAE tested every sale lot offered for sale at auction by the British Wool Marketing Board, a Farmer-run organisation. In total, 4,158 samples representing 28,788,802kg of UK wool were processed by the Laboratory, with an average lot size of 6,923kg and an average of 19 bales per lot. Of this total 11% of the lots were classed as Fine, 27% as Medium, 24% as Cross-Bred, 2% as Lustre wool, 14% as Hill wool, 18% as Mountain wool and the remaining 4% as Lamb’s wool. ‘For additional information on WTAE’s activities please go to our website: www.wtaeurope.com or contact us directly on info@wtaeurope.com where we will be pleased to assist you in any way possible’.

Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS). Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. United Accreditation Service (UKAS). MemberKingdom of the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. group of laboratories the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) Member of Interwoollabs. group of laboratories Member of Interwoollabs. 202

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Buying & selling wool made easy online

uying and selling wool is being made easier with online platform - www. woolbuy.net. This 24 hour interactive website is simple to use and free to all.

financial transactions between buyers and sellers’, says Mr Chesky. ‘When you make an enquiry or buy wool you communicate directly with the seller, there are no other parties involved’.

woolbuy.net now has over 5780 registered users and feature over 120 listings of wool, tops, and yarn from all over the world’, says Victor Chesky CEO International Trade Publications (ITP). It is very easy to simply login and see what you can buy, or login and list your wool for sale.

International Trade Publications is an independent publishing house. ‘We do not buy or sell wool, so users of this site can be assured that there is no conflict of interest. International Trade Publications also publishes a monthly online newsletter www.woolnews.net and international trade magazines including wool2yarnchina.com and wool2yarnglobal.com

‘This website facilitates direct links between buyers and sellers. We are not a party to any

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advertising always pays in good times and in bad he old saying goes that when business is good it pays to advertise. When business is bad you must advertise.

wool 2yarnChina Speciality Fibres 中国羊毛与纱线特种纤维

纱线－品牌背后的品牌

One thing is for sure, if buyers have never heard about your company it is unlikely to they will buy your product. And if your sales people tell you that you don’t need to advertise because they can do all the selling that is not true. They simply cannot contact 20,000 people, but advertising in trade magazines will. Advertising is important not only to promote your product to new markets but to reassure your existing customers that buying from your company is the right choice.

英国羊毛的新标签南非马海毛公司推出首届国际设计大赛秘鲁羊驼毛纱在Pitti Filati交易会绽放光彩

羊毛用于高性能服装从粗花呢服装到现代运动服装 2016-2017年羊毛购买商指南

Magazines are where consumers go to for ideas and inspiration. Magazine advertising is targeted and engages readers in very personal ways. Magazine advertising can bring new customers to your door, protect your existing customer base, and build brand awareness of you products. To successfully market your product to your customer base you must let them know what products you have to offer and how quickly you can deliver. To get this message across you must have a profile that your customers and potential customers can see and easily access.

wool2yarn global and wool2yarn china are published once each year and advertising in both of these publications will connect you to all major wool consuming markets every year. wool2yarn global is an English language publication that is circulated to 5000 wool and textile companies in over 60 countries worldwide. It is circulated by direct mail to all major importers and exporters of wool and speciality fibre, wool carbonisers, topmakers, spinners, weavers and fabric, garments, and carpet manufacturers. wool2yarn china is circulated to over 5000 wool importers, wool processors (scouring and carbonising), topmaking mills, spinners and weavers, and fabric and carpet manufacturers in China. It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market. wool2yarn china is also distributed to all delegates (500+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool Market Conference, the major international conference for the wool and textile industry in China attended by all leading Chinese companies from greasy wool importers and processors to garment manufacturers. For more information visit us at www.wool2yarnglobal.com

Been seen, Be recognised – connect with Buyers Everywhere Advertise in www.woolnews.net and reach over 2500 wool and textile companies in more than 56 countries worldwide, and at a fraction of the cost of other traditional advertising medium. An advertising icon in www.woolnews.net will link your company to new buyers worldwide and at just the click of a button our readers can view your company details and be in touch with you in a matter of seconds. Check this out at

http://www.woolnews.net/advertise-with-us/

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Established in 1957 by Mr Jo Modiano, G. Modiano Limited is based in London. It has grown to become one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest wool trading and processing companies. It sells greasy wool, wool tops, including Superwash and Basolan treated, noils and wastes. It also supplies wool grease from its factory in Nejdek, Czech Republic.

G. Modiano Ltd. Broad Street House, 55 Old Broad Street, London EC2M 1RX Email trading@gmodiano.com Telephone +44(0)20 7012 0000 gmodiano.com

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