Latitudes
Autumn/ Winter 2014/15 ISSUE 39 ÂŁ3.50
16
Atlantic Crossroads 22 ARC Portugal
28 ARC Baltic
ARC Europe 40 World ARC
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BERTHON ARE PROud SuPPORTERS Of THE ARC Berthon are offering the Contest 45’CS FLY for sale. From 2007, a new generation Contest she is a joy to sail in all conditions. From the board of Georg Nissen, Contest build quality is evident from truck to keel, the finish is without compromise. Cruised by her original husband and wife yachtsmen in both the East and West Mediterranean. She is totally blue water prepared yet with a modest number of miles beneath her keel. ARC anyone?
worldcruising.com
LATITUDES
List of Advertisers 6 20 4 14 3 14 54 52 55 35 38 36 44 12 8 47 26 24 46 44 18 32 2 9 46 32 50 56 42 18 14 55 42
Admiral Marine Insurance Ayuntamiento Las Palmas Berthon International Bomarine Discovery Yachts
22
Echomax
Contents
Fischer Panda
7
Gill UK
Foreword by Andrew Bishop, MD of World Cruising Club
GN Espace Hamble School of Yachting
10
Hydrovane IGY Rodney Bay Marina
28
13
16
Lagoon
22 28
Marina de Lagos
33
Malts Cruise Whisky, wildlife and sailing
Nanny Cay
34
Ocean Safety
Mast Climbing Climb your mast safely
Patronato Turismo de Gran Canaria
37
Santa Marta Marina Colombia opens for cruisers
Peters and May
40
PYD
World ARC Concierge sailing
40
48
Home via the Azores Cruising offshore
53
Books & Gear The latest books for bluewater sailors
Marina Santa Marta
watt&sea
ARC Baltic Six nations in six weeks
37
Mobmat
Traveleads
ARC Portugal Sailing south to the sun
MailASail
Saint Lucia Tourist Board
ARC Europe Atlantic crossroads
Mactra Marine Equipment
Rolnautic
Rally News Round up of rallies
Jeanneau
Raymarine
Club News News and events from World Cruising Club and our Corporate Members
Imray
Marlec
Viewpoint
55
noonsite.com News updates from the cruising sailor’s information site
YachtCom & SailCom YB Tracking
5
The Cruising Sailor’s Choice: As a strong supporter of World Cruising Club for many years, Admiral has developed to meet the needs of rally participants, with added benefits not available from other insurance companies. The Admiral plain English policy is backed by Lloyd’s and is one of the most comprehensive and easy to understand yacht policies available. Most importantly, Admiral’s in-house customer focused claims service is supported by a global network of marine surveyors and repair specialists. Along with standard yacht cover, Admiral’s comprehensive policy includes the following benefits:
is exclusive to World Cruising Club rally participants and includes additional benefits:
• Cover for piracy, acts of terrorism and associated risks. • No excess for third party claims. No excess if you are struck by another vessel when moored. • High single article personal possessions limit of £1,000 for unspecified items. • Contribution to accommodation costs if yacht is uninhabitable. • Ability to insure most nationalities.
ARC and ARC+
For your peace of mind, give us a call today on 01722 416106 or complete the online quote form: www.admiralyacht.com
• 12 months for the price of 10. • FREE Yellowbrick cover. • FREE aloft rig inspection in Las Palmas. • Personal visit to Las Palmas to assist with any last minutes amendments. WorldARC • FREE Yellowbrick cover. • FREE aloft rig inspection in Las Palmas or Rodney Bay and Cape Town. • 15 month policy if required. • Search and rescue cover if applicable. • Discounts for those entering both ARC and WorldARC
Admiral Marine Limited, 4 Barnack Centre Blakey Road, Salisbury, SP1 2LP, United Kingdom T: +44 (0)1722 416106 F: +44 (0)1722 324455 E: quotes@admiralyacht.com W: www.admiralyacht.com Admiral Marine Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority.
worldcruising.com LATITUDES
Viewpoint Editor Jeremy Wyatt
Deputy Editor Sarah Collins
Contributors Andrew Bishop Lyall Burgess Joel Chadwick Claire Pengelly Paul Tetlow Rob and Barbara White
Photography Credits Bermuda Aerial Media Andrew Bishop Johny Buraca Suzana Buraca Nina Fletcher Mia Karlsson Cecilie Hammersland Love Hansell Dagmar Hartung Kieran Higgs Photography James Mitchell Claire Pengelly Paul Tetlow Barbara White Jeremy Wyatt Crew of Flomaida II Crew of Folie a Deux Crew of Tulasi Crew of Trillium And to all other yacht crews who submitted photographs!
Cover Image Malisi (Outremer 64) and Tosca (Moxie 61) set out from Bermuda on ARC Europe. Photo: Bermuda Aerial Media
Design Aaron Rudd Creative www.aaronrudd.co.uk
Publisher World Cruising Club 120 High Street, Cowes PO31 7AX, UK Tel: Email:
+44 (0)1983 296060 mail@worldcruising.com
Websites: worldcruising.com noonsite.com oceancrewlink.com
During last summer World Cruising Club launched four new rallies, of which three have now been successfully delivered, with preparations well in hand for the start of the fourth rally from New Caledonia to New Zealand in early November. Such has been the success of these new rallies that three of them are already open to entries for next year. ARC Baltic brought together an international fleet for their six week six countries six capital tour, the highlight of which was without a doubt the visit to Saint Petersburg. To be run again in 2015 the plan is then for the rally to be biennial from 2017. On the eastern seaboard of the United States ARC DelMarVa brought together a group of American sailors for a week-long rally that included for many their first overnight passage, as well as leaving Chesapeake Bay for the first time. This event is an ideal introduction to offshore cruising, helping to encourage potential passage makers looking to extend their cruising horizons. With these additional events World Cruising Club now has 450 yachts participating in our rallies each year; following the increase of events based in North America the participant base has shifted so that we now have an equal number of participants across all our rallies from USA and UK (each at 35% of the total), with 30% from thirty other countries.
“
World Cruising Club is about encouraging sailors to extend their cruising boundaries” Andrew Bishop, Managing Director
Preparation for undertaking offshore passage making is key to a successful and memorable trip. World Cruising Club facilitates this process through sharing knowledge and experience at the increasing number of forums and activities held throughout the year. The Blue Water Open Boat weekend held at the Berthon Marina in Lymington in June was particularly well attended, as were the new forums and seminars in Oslo, Amsterdam and Annapolis. Whilst we get ready for this year’s ARC plans are already being made for ways to celebrate the 30th edition in 2015, with additional activities planned for crews during the rally. And for owners the Entry Fee for 2015 will be held at the same level for the third consecutive year. It is remarkable to be reaching this milestone in the Rally’s history, and I am proud of our achievement, which would not have been possible without the tremendous support of so many, including the sponsors, and well in excess of five thousand owners over the years! This year has been an exciting one at World Cruising Club, and we look forward to consolidating our achievements to date during the year ahead. To those who have supported our rallies this year, thank you. And to those who have participated in the inaugural editions of the new rallies – there is only ever one first edition, and they are special; your faith in our ability to deliver is greatly appreciated.
Andrew Bishop
Managing Director, World Cruising Club
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www.claris.fr - Photos Nicolas Claris
Lagoon supports the ARC Rally
to refer to as the Lagoon attitude: A great ambiance and an unforgettable class organization in terms of preparation and safety. Lagoon is proud to be a partner of the ARC Rally!
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You sail the Atlantic - we ship you home... World leading global boat transport Please contact our dedicated Caribbean Department for prices and further information.
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Peters & May are the approved supplier to the ARC and offer a bespoke and independent shipping service to all participants back home after the event. Our services include industry approved shipping cradles and an in-house team of dedicated Loadmasters to oversee the loading of your yacht from the water to the cradle. We pride ourselves on being flexible, competitive and considerate to our customers’ requirements. Westbound shipments
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
Club News
A round-up of news from World Cruising Club and supporters
Horizon Yacht Charters open new base in St Vincent Horizon Yacht Charters are opening their latest yacht charter base in St Vincent and the Grenadines. Located at the redeveloped Blue Lagoon Marina, the new base will serve clients wishing to cruise the unspoilt Grenadines. The base will opened on 1st October 2014 with a fleet of monohull and catamarans ranging from 37 to 51 feet in length. Luxury crewed yachts as well as bareboat charters will be offered.
end of the island chain, offering clients even more options and flexibility for their sailing vacations with Horizon Yacht Charters.” More information: horizonyachtcharters.com
St Vincent Base director James Pascall stated: “We are delighted to be adding St Vincent to the Horizon family of bases. The Grenadines are one of the great yacht cruising areas in the World and we will now have a charter base located at each
New product from YB Tracking However, unlike other YB trackers, this unit is designed to be permanently mounted and powered by a 12-30v supply, and has a backup battery as well.
YB Tracking have announced their latest version of the YB Iridium tracker - the YB3i. Like all YB products it automatically sends position reports from anywhere on Earth, allowing your friends and family to follow your progress via an online map.
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In addition, the YB3i has the option of a dual-mode GSM/ Iridium transmission system, allowing it to use satellite to transmit positions when offshore, and cheaper GSM data when in range of mobile networks. It will be sold alongside the existing YB3 portable tracker, and is available from the end of September 2014. For more information, and pricing, please visit www.ybtracking.com
Peters & May Marks 10 Years Supporting ARC Sailors 2014 sees a milestone for Peters & May, the world’s leading global boat transportation Company, as it will be the 10th consecutive year of their involvement with World Cruising Club’s Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC). Peters & May are proud to have been looking after the transportation needs of ARC sailors since 2005 and to have been part of the World Cruising Club “family” of corporate partners for such a considerable period of time. Over the years, the ARC has grown in numbers, with over 250 boats annually heading across the Atlantic for the 2,700nm passage from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia. Increasingly, yacht owners are opting to ship their boats back to Europe after the Caribbean season, and Peters & May have been able to provide ARC participants with stress free, dock-todock solutions. The Caribbean shipping trade is an area that Peters & May has developed over the past few years. Having established a strong relationship with the ARC, it has allowed Peters & May’s presence within the market to grow. Craig Stanbury, Operations Director Racing Division, comments, “We are proud of our association with such a prestigious event for the last 10 years. Being part of the ARC family and building a mutually beneficial relationship, has been hugely enjoyable and we look forward to continuing our partnership.”
worldcruising.com
The top 10 tips for equipping a yacht for bluewater cruising Discovery Yachts, builders of bespoke ocean-going cruising yachts, have put together their Top 10 Tips for equipping a yacht for bluewater sailing. The information is drawn from the experience of Discovery owners the world over, in addition to the Owner Care Team at Discovery who support them wherever they cruise. The guide covers such essential items as initial design, power management, safety, navigation systems, comfort and practicality on board, spares, support, and final preparations before ‘the off’. It is available in printed format, or as a download from the Discovery website. In preparation for your bluewater adventure, you will find these simples tips invaluable. To download your free copy at www.discoveryyachts.com/2014/08/top-tipsbluewater-cruising
CLUB NEWS
Winterizing your boat is a great time to get your safety equipment serviced Safety equipment providers will, of course, service safety equipment at any time of year however the best time ideally is at the end of the season, when laying your boat up for the winter. This is the most important time to be checking through your safety equipment and making sure that everything is working properly. Flares need to be in date, and liferafts and lifejackets need to be serviced before their due dates too. “We advise customers to get their equipment checked well before they start sailing again in the spring,” says Ocean Safety’s Managing Director Charlie Mill. “It’s important to check that liferafts, lifejackets, extinguishers and man overboard equipment are all in date, and in working order, ready for the following season.” When looking for a liferaft servicing agent try and source one that encourages you to come in and familiarise yourself with your liferaft, as most people have probably never had to open one and have little idea what is actually inside one. Ocean Safety’s Charlie Mill says “Boat owners and crews appreciate one-to-one advice and guidance. It is very interesting for them to see a liferaft being inflated, for example, because hopefully not many of them have ever had to use one.” For more advice on servicing, please don’t hesitate to get in contact with Ocean Safety on: +44 (0) 23 8072 0800
Marina Lanzarote – the newest marina in the Canary Islands opens in Lanzarote Positioned towards the north end of the Canarian island of Lanzarote, the town of Arrecife has long been a strategic port of call for sailors travelling south from Europe. Marina Lanzarote 28º 40.67 N, 17º 40.07 W Dársena de Naos, 35500 Arrecife, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain www.caleromarinas.com/marinas/lanzarote/en/ Tel: +34 648 524649 marina@marinalanzarote.com
With the opening of the new Marina Lanzarote facility within the harbour of Arrecife, the port now boasts a world-class fully serviced marina, making it the ideal landfall for boats arriving in the Canary Islands. The marina is just a short walk from the historic centre of Arrecife, which maintains much of its historical maritime charm with shops and activity centred around the pretty waterfront and two natural harbours. Marina Lanzarote offers sailors both a convenient and welcoming place to recharge and effect repairs, which coupled with good travel connections, accessible berthing rates, a travel hoist suitable for multihulls and superyachts, local shipwrights, a new gym and sports centre all make it an appealing destination.
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RALLY NEWS
ARC Portugal 2015: Great deal at premier marina for double ralliers Marina de Lagos is renowned as the premier marina on the Portuguese Coast, situated close to the Algarve, with modern and secure berthing, boatyard facilities, exclusive shoreside entertainment and proximity to Faro and Lisbon for international flight connections. For two decades the marina has warmly welcomed World Cruising Club rally participants offering services with a smile and generous discounts for longer stays. As a special bonus for yachts that join both ARC Portugal and ARC or ARC+ in 2015,
Marina de Lagos are kindly offering 30% discount on docking fees to this special group of double ARC participants. The offer is limited to five entries, on a first come first served basis, for the period from arrival with ARC Portugal, until date of departure for the ARC; In addition World Cruising Club is offering one ARC Portugal crew fee credit for these special double rally participants. For more information about ARC Portugal - our three-week rally to the Mediterranean - read the report from the rally’s 20th edition in 2014 on page 22.
Rally News ARC Baltic: Back in 2015 The first edition of ARC Baltic concluded in August following six weeks of cruising the capital cities and peaceful archipelagos of the Baltic Sea. Many agreed the rally was “an extraordinary combination of challenging sailing, fabulous scenery, interesting ports, and great company”, summed up by Mike Hempstead, on board Aquila. Read the full report on page 28.
World ARC 2014: ARC New Zealand One of the great benefits of the new annual cycle of World ARC is that crews with more time to spend on their whole circumnavigation can dip-out of the rally to spend longer in the Pacific. Yachts can begin one World ARC from the Caribbean and accompany that group across the Pacific, before leaving the Rally in the western Pacific and then take time out to explore New Zealand, before linking up with the next World ARC passing through Fiji a year later. To support this, World Cruising Club has launched a new route option, ARC New Zealand, which brings together those boats who wish to spend the ‘offseason’ exploring New Zealand. The Rally will gather the yachts together in Noumea, New Caledonia in November and then the group will sail together down to Opua, on North Island of New Zealand. In the following cruising season, these yachts will join together again to make the ‘uphill’ journey back to the Tonga and meet the next World ARC fleet in Fiji.
Following the success of the inaugural edition, the rally will next be held in the summer of 2015, following a revised route visiting historic towns such as Rønne and Tallinn, iconic landmarks including The Hermitage and Winter Palace in St Petersburg and fascinating museums in Mariehamn and Stockholm. Our agent assists with yacht clearances and visa invitations for Russia, and with World Cruising Club staff on hand throughout the rally, participants enjoy this remarkable cruising ground to its fullness. “For us and our family this has been one of our top ten vacation experiences. It has given us more competence and faith in our abilities and we found many new friends who shared the same love for the sea”.
Malts Cruise As you’ll notice from a quick review of our diary on page 15, WCC’s Scottish cruising rally, the Malts Cruise will be taking a year off in 2015. But don’t worry, we will be back in this magnificent cruising ground soon, re-launching the two-week cruise with beautiful scenery and amazing wildlife with a journey of discovery into the world of Scottish single malt whisky.
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RALLY NEWS
World Cruising Club Programme 2014 - 2016 2014
9 November ARC + 2014
Cruising Rally, from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia, with an added stopover in the Cape Verdes worldcruising.com/arc
23 November ARC 2014
29th edition of the world’s most popular cruising rally from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia. worldcruising.com/arc
2015
10 January World ARC 2015-16
Start of 15 month circumnavigation rally via Panama Canal, Australia and South Africa worldcruising.com/worldarc
10 January
Bluewater Cruisers Question Time, UK An introduction to ocean sailing held at the London Boat Show
17-25 January
Boot Düsseldorf, Germany Meet the World Cruising Club team at the international boat show at Düsseldorf Exhibition Center, Germany in Hall 11.
6-8 March
Ocean Cruising Seminar, UK Three day ocean cruising seminar delivered by industry experts, held in Guildford, UK worldcruising.com/training
2015
15 March
Bluewater Cruisers Question Time at HISWA An introduction to ocean sailing held at the HISWA Amsterdam Boat Show. worldcruising.com/training
21-22 March Ocean Sailing Seminar, USA
Two day ocean sailing seminar held in Annapolis, MD, USA worldcruising.com/training
9 May
ARC USA Cruising rally from Tortola BVI to Bermuda then on to USA or directly to Fort Lauderdale via Old Bahama Channel worldcruising.com/arcusa
9 May
ARC Europe Start of west-east transatlantic rally from Nanny Cay, Tortola visiting Bermuda and Azores en route to Europe. worldcruising.com/arceurope
31 May
ARC Portugal Cruise in company from Plymouth, UK across Biscay then day sailing down the Portuguese coast to Marina de Lagos. worldcruising.com/ arcportugal
20 June
ARC DelMarVa A week-long cruising rally around the DelMarVa peninsula, East Coast USA. worldcruising.com/ ARCDelMarVa
6 July
ARC Baltic A 1,800nm voyage of discovery through Europe’s “east sea”, combining days of social cruising with exploring the Baltic’s fascinating culture and history ashore. worldcruising.com/arc_baltic
26 September World ARC South America
Departs Lagos Portugal via Madeira, Canary Islands, Cape Verdes to Brazil. worldcruising.com/worldarc
1 November
ARC Caribbean 1500 ARC Bahamas Cruising rally from Portsmouth VA to Tortola BVI, or Bahamas worldcruising.com/carib1500
8 November ARC + 2015
Cruising Rally, from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia, with an added stopover in the Cape Verdes worldcruising.com/arc
22 November ARC 2015
Celebrating 30 years of the world’s most popular cruising rally from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia. worldcruising.com/arc
2016
9 January
World ARC 2016-17 Start of 15 month circumnavigation rally via Panama Canal, Australia and South Africa worldcruising.com/worldarc
World Cruising Club at Boot Düsseldorf 17 - 25 January 2015
Come and meet the team from World Cruising Club at the world’s largest indoor yacht and water sports show. With more than 1,600 exhibitors from 60 countries spread through 17 exhibition halls, presenting boat premières, new equipment and maritime services, Boot Düsseldorf is the premier Show for sailing enthusiasts. All the top boat builders will be there filling two exhibition halls with more than 50 different cruising and racing sailboats. Other halls feature engines, equipment and marina destinations; so much that one day just won’t be enough to see everything on offer. World Cruising Club are once again at Boot Düsseldorf in Hall 11. This is your chance to meet the representatives of the World Cruising Club in person to ask about our rallies: ARC, ARC Portugal, ARC Baltic, ARC Europe, or our rally around the world, World ARC. We are happy to welcome participants from our previous events as well. In 2014 more than 240,000 visitors attended the Show, with 20% coming from outside Germany, making Boot Düsseldorf, Europe’s main attraction for boating enthusiasts. Visiting the Show is easy, with excellent travel connections via Düsseldorf international airport and train station. Free travel to and from the show venue is provided to ticket holders via the extensive tram and bus network, connecting the city’s many hotels. Boot Düsseldorf runs from 17 - 25 January 2015 from 10.00 to 18.00 hours. For more information about the show and travel connections, see: boat.duesseldorf.com
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
Atlantic Crossroads Which ever way you are headed on the Atlantic, World Cruising Club’s joint ARC Europe and ARC USA rallies will take you there. Head for Bermuda or head towards the Florida coast via the Old Bahama Channel? This is the choice for sailors in the Caribbean in early May.
Dinner with the crews of Karina, Altair and Keep It Simple
For those sailing to Europe, Bermuda offers a delightful last blast of Caribbean warmth before the passage across the Atlantic or the jump to the US East Coast. For boats setting out from the US and voyaging to Europe, Bermuda offers a chance to regroup and prepare for the 1800nm ocean crossing to the Azores.
ARC USA’s Old Bahama Channel route proves popular For the boats in ARC USA, the Old Bahama Channel passage is the long way home - 1,000 nm to Fort Lauderdale, then a coastwise trip to the Chesapeake and beyond for those northern-bound boats, but it is statistically an easier route than aiming for Bermuda, with sheltered seas in the lee of the Bahamian islands and favourable current nearly the whole way to Florida. In 2014, it lived up to its reputation, though with a lack of wind, it might just have been a little too easy, as evidenced by the logs sent in, whilst the crews were at sea. “Still, no rain and we continue to be fortunate with weather,” wrote the crew of Nirvana, one of two newcomers to World Cruising Club rallies.
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The ARC Europe start line, Nanny Cay, Tortola.
“
Both ARC Europe and ARC USA are unique in that there is a mix of boats from the USA and Europe either coming home or starting their adventure, and the mixing and mingling of those two groups are what make the rallies special.”
worldcruising.com
ARC EUROPE
ARC Europe and ARC USA crews bid farewell to the Caribbean
“We motor sailed as long as we could last night. We want wind at 050º on the compass, so think ‘050, 050, 050.’ The engine has a nice sound, but the silence of the sails is what we are longing for.” A newcomer to World Cruising Club rallies was the 48’ Hinckley Sou-Wester Dark Star, who met the ARC Caribbean 1500 fleet at the Nanny Cay beach bar during last autumn’s rally. Dark Star was bound first for Annapolis, where she spent some time, and ultimately home to Cape Cod. One of Dark Star’s crewmembers went on to participate in the first-ever ARC DelMarVa rally last June. Welcome to the family!
Safety demonstrations before the start
Nanny Cay - the hub of the BVI Twenty-five of the thirty-five boats sailing with ARC Europe, elected to start from Nanny Cay Marina on Tortola in the British Virgin Islands. Which, combined with the ARC USA crews made for a great atmosphere and some fun parties before the start. Safety demonstrations and seminars also acted as a reminder to crews, relaxed and laid-back after more than 4 months cruising in the Caribbean, that it was time to prepare boats and equipment for open-ocean sailing again. The well run marina at Nanny Cay has been World Cruising Club’s northern Caribbean hub for the last few years, hosting the arrival of the annual ARC Caribbean 1500 in November and the departure of ARC Europe and ARC USA in May. Cruisers are well served, with excellent facilities, docks and haul-outs as well as bars and beaches to enjoy. Conditions for the start of both rallies from Tortola were great. Sunny skies and a strong easterly breeze gusting up to 20 knots sent boats off to a flying start towards Bermuda and Florida. Whilst, at the same time, way to the north, other cruisers were preparing to join the fleet as they set sail from Portsmouth, Virginia.
US boats head east
Happy Hour with the Dark Star crew
It was a wild week for weather during the Portsmouth starters programme! In late April it was 80ºF and humid at Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth, VA, with thunderstorms and tornado warnings after a wet night in the historic waterfront town.
Temperatures soon dipped into the 50’s, but with clearing skies following a frontal passage, Neptune provided the USA-based fleet a great forecast for departure and the fleet took full advantage, making the Gulf Stream crossing uneventful and enjoying a smooth romp to Bermuda. Tosca, a 61-foot custom carbon-fibre fast cruising cat, led the way, making the 650-mile passage in a blazing three days, seeing top speeds well over 20 knots. Seven boats took part in the USA start of ARC Europe this year, headed to a mid-atlantic rendezvous at Bermuda to meet with the Caribbean starters. The Portsmouth fleet consisted of three big catamarans and four monohulls. The smallest yacht was Tiger Lily, a Pacific Seacraft 31. With her study bulwarks and oiled teak interior, Tiger Lily was a classic example of stout offshore cruising boat. Though she never made the Atlantic crossing, electing to sail home from Bermuda after a rough start to Leg 2, she’s considerably expanded her horizons already, and has big plans ahead. In the middle of the fleet were Sojourner, a Shannon 37 cutter from Milwaukee, Athenea, the other big cat, Mariposa, the third catamaran, Persistent Lady, a classic Hardin 45 ketch (with new aluminum spars!), and Happy Destiny, a Jeanneau 43 with a cheerful crew led by Ray Smith that perfectly embodied the boat’s name. The activities in Portsmouth included inspections, safety flare demos, weather briefings and several evening happy hours, where the USA-starters got nicely acquainted with one another before joining the rest of the fleet in Bermuda.
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World Cruising Club Official Travel Partner Specially negotiated airfares for ARC events plus car rental, accommodation, personal holidays and corporate travel For all your travel requirements contact Traveleads
+44 (0)113 242 2202 Or email arcsailing@traveleads.net www.traveleads.co.uk/ARC
New York House | 1 Harper Street | Leeds | West Yorkshire | LS2 7EA | United Kingdom
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ARC EUROPE In 2014, the opposite happened. A low-pressure system situated north of Bermuda as the fleet readied for departure deepened (the same low that doomed Cheeki Rafiki – see side bar), causing the routing for the rally to head south and east, rather than north. For the first several days offshore the fleet experienced headwinds and challenging conditions before things ‘normalized’ as the low dissipated and moved off to the northwest, allowing the high to re-establish itself. While the atypical route slowed down the fleet and added hours to the crossing, in the end it was a minor bump in the road for the rally fleet and a reminder that the pilot charts and long-term weather patterns are always subject to change.
All aboard for the luau! Malisi crew in the Azores
Small boats, big parties Kalimba, the smallest boat in the ARC Europe fleet, arrived just as the Luau on the deck at the Dinghy Club was in full swing in Bermuda, and were offered raucous applause from the rest of the participants as they sailed through Town Cut and into St. George’s. ARC Europe might be a smaller rally compared to the ARC to Saint Lucia, but they still know how to throw big parties! The Luau was a big hit. Crews dressed in their best Hawaii garb, and Lyall Burgess, ARC Europe rally manager who actually lives on the Big Island, passed out leis to folks as they made their entrance. Andy was tending bar, with free Dark & Stormies for all, while Mia Karlsson, dressed festively in grass skirt and tropical shirt, bounced around the room taking photos.
sailing out of ‘The Cut’ in Bermuda
As the Bermuda fleet partied in St. George’s, the ARC USA fleet celebrated their arrival in Florida. Despite a light-wind start, the route ended up being a particularly fast passage – Miles & Anne Poor on Karina, who pioneered the route for World Cruising Club, reported their fastest ever passage. After all the yachts had safely arrived, they celebrated with a group dinner at the Oasis restaurant in downtown Ft. Lauderdale. “The party was great fun,” said Anne Poor. “We gave out the participant plaques from Weems & Plath, and a few awards. Moonshadow received the Weems & Plath Navigators Awards for their well-kept traditional logbook, while the crew on Dark Star earned the Seamanship Award for their excellent passage and beautiful boat!”
An odd year for weather The longest leg of ARC Europe is the 1800nm “jump” from Bermuda to Faial, in the Azores. While the Azores High typically dominates a west-east Atlantic crossing in the middle latitudes, it was an annoying low-pressure system in 2014 that dictated the route planning for most of the fleet. The ‘classic’ route from Bermuda to Faial follows a bending course, sailing first north by east from St. George’s and making time to the 40th parallel, whereby the fleet would turn east, running down that line before diving south again and into Horta. The idea is to skirt along the top of the Azores High, latching on to the prevailing westerlies circulating north of the High’s center.
Cheeki Rafiki search highlights the ‘wilderness’ of ocean sailing Sadly, what most yachts will remember most about the 2014 ARC Europe rally is the search for the missing crew of the Cheeki Rafiki, a member of the World Cruising family as a former ARC participant. When the news first reached the fleet, it became apparent that Malisi, a 60-foot catamaran which was leading the fleet across, was only 70nm from the last known position of Cheeki Rafiki. They quickly volunteered to lead the search once contacted by rally control. Malisi led the charge on what became an enormous international search effort, involving coastguard assets from the US, Canada and the UK, plus several rally yachts and merchant ships. While Malisi sited unidentified debris shortly after their search began, ultimately it proved unrelated. A few days after the USCG resumed their search, a US Navy ship found the upturned hull of Cheeki Rafiki and determined that the liferaft had not been deployed. The yachts keel was missing, an obvious clue as to its demise, and no survivors were found. Malisi’s crew were lauded by both the rally fleet and the international news media for putting themselves on the line in the finest traditions of the sea.
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DISCOVER LAS PALMAS DE GRAN CANARIA DESCUBRE LAS PALMAS DE GRAN CANARIA
HISTORY
SHOPPING
TASTE
City of sea and cultures LPAvisit.com
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The Azores – the jewel of the Atlantic The Azores really are a destination unto themselves, and not just a refueling stop on the way across the North Atlantic. It is sad to see the high number of visiting yachts that stop for just one night to refuel, drink a gin & tonic at Peter’s Café Sport and carry on. They are missing out! ARC Europe crews are always pleasantly surprised by the beautiful islands and the friendly people that live there. Leaving Horta, crews enjoyed a day-sail (really a ‘motor’ in 2014) to Terceira spotting whales and dolphins en route. The marina in Terceira is at the foot of the colourful city of Angra do Heroismo, a UNESCO World Heritage city, and crews were taken on a guided walking tour by local guide Paulo. A passionate man from the island, he explained a lot of the important history (did you know Angra was twice the capital of Portugal?) and gained access to some buildings’ interiors that would otherwise have been off-limits.
ARC EUROPE
The street bull running fiesta is always interesting to see. A completely unique pastime found only on the island of Terceira, the ‘Tourada a Corde’ takes place almost every night for a couple of months and is hosted by different villages and parishes around the island. The crew arrived in a fleet of Mercedes taxis, shortly before the first cannon signaled the bull was out on the streets, and most of the crews found high ground to watch from. It wasn’t long before the bravado kicked in and there were crews out on the street with the local guys getting their adrenalin flowing. An overnight downwind trip brings crews to the cosmopolitan city of Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores. Well-dressed locals come down to the cafes and restaurants to look out over the marina and the cruise ships and yachts berthed there. After the smaller islands of Faial and Terciera, it has the feeling of a busy place, but once out in the surrounding countryside it is soon evident that this is also a beautifully quiet island. The two weeks in the Azores finished at Santa Maria, where the fleet regrouped for a medieval themed farewell pig roast before the final 900nm passage to Portugal.
Shenanigan & Webster enjoying a cocktail on the far side of the pond after a successful crossing.
Boats also had the option of a northern route towards the UK and Ireland, which five skippers opted for.
For some, the start of a Grand Adventure; for others, a trip home How do you sum up such a big and varied rally like ARC Europe / USA? In short, you can’t. You might think that with two fleets, starting from two different ports and sailing in two opposite directions with two very distinct goals in mind, would make for a haphazard and poorly defined event. Well, you would be wrong. Both ARC Europe and ARC USA are unique in that there is a mix of boats from the USA and Europe either coming home or starting their adventure, and the mixing and mingling of those two groups are what make the rallies special. While the USA fleet is excited to welcome their European guests into their own home waters – sharing charts and cruising guides, local knowledge and offering car rides and homes ashore – the ARC Europe fleet is just as excited to share their own experiences with the adventurous sailors from the USA bound for European waters. In the end, it is the Spirit of the Rally that always rings truest in trying to sum up the events. While Moonshadow in the USA fleet were recognized for their navigational prowess in Florida, and Ken from Kristy Sue gallantly sailed home to New England via Bermuda by his lonesome as the only ARC USA yacht to take the classic offshore route, it was the crew of Webster who made the biggest impression on the European side for their constant banter, parties on the dock and general enthusiasm for their cruising mates in the rally fleet. For rally staff and sailors alike, it is this unbridled enthusiasm and unbreakable spirit that makes the rallies such a special thing to be a part of.
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
Sailing South to the Sun
World Cruising Club’s annual trans-Biscay rally takes cruisers to Algarve coast of Portugal
The sail south begins Full of anticipation, final hours of preparations were underway on the docks of Plymouth’s Mayflower Marina. “Tomorrow is the big day. We head out at 9. Be great to start after all the preparations. Our first big ocean crossing! Bayona, here we come!” read Orion’s excitedly typed log. They were feelings shared by many of the crews as they arrived at the Skippers’ Briefing on the eve of the start of the 20th edition of ARC Portugal. On the morning of 1st June, under a light layer of clearing cloud with a moderate breeze from the WNW, the boats pointed their bows to the southwest and the crews bid a fond farewell to Plymouth, and to the rally hosts, Mayflower Marina.
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Salmo Salar sailing south
“
We were promised an adventure and how true! The Bay of Biscay displayed all her moods, majestic and splendid” Orion
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ARC PORTUGAL Alice & Keith of Spirit III, in Oeiras
Unexpected destinations Further trials were ahead for the ARC Portugal fleet resulting in some unexpected landfalls on their passage south. The low pressure system predicted in the pre-start weather forecasts moved faster than expected resulting in high winds and big seas just as the fleet was approaching Cape Finnistere. Rather than fight the winds, many skippers chose to divert to ports along the Galician coast to wait out the front, seeing wind speeds in excess of 35 knots in the process. In all, the fleet ended up at seven different ports from Gijón to Bayona.
“We were promised an adventure and how true! The Bay of Biscay displayed all her moods, majestic and splendid” Orion
Rally spirit ARC Portugal is first and foremost a cruising rally, however a group start off the Royal Plymouth Corinthian yacht Club line provided a spectacle for the crews afloat and well-wishers ashore, and a hint of competition to add to the fun. First across the line, accelerating on the wind, was the J/46 Garretty, closely followed by First 405, Spirit III, whose crew were optimistically and loudly blasting out the song “We are the Champions” as they crossed the start line. Hapatoni, complete with canine crew member “Hudson the Beagle” were close on their tail, as indeed a beagle should be! The start created a fine sight as the fleet headed across Plymouth Sound, and out through the western entrance of the breakwater, towards the open sea.
Not far into the passage, Ca Canny came into difficulties after they started their engine in a patch of light airs off Ushant and caught a rope around their propeller. For two decades, crews in ARC Portugal have displayed exemplary rally spirit in such scenarios and this year was no exception. “Out of the blue we got a call from Robert on Zoonie who had heard about our predicament and offered to tow or escort us into Brest if needed,” Ca Canny’s log reported. With assistance at hand, the Ca Canny crew worked the rope cutter and folding propeller to free the issue, then lowered a waterproof camera overboard and saw from the pictures that the rope had gone and the prop was fit and ready to go. The gallant crew of Zoonie stayed close through most of the night just in case and were suitably rewarded with a case of beer.
As the fleet came together again in Bayona, albeit a few days later than planned, plenty of stories from their Biscay crossing were shared over a few welcome drinks at the Monte Real Club de Yates, the rally’s gracious hosts.
Dynamics of the fleet ARC Portugal attracts cruisers with a variety of different intentions and pursuits. The different walks of life and experience of individuals sharing one goal always makes for great dynamics within the fleet and is just one of the lures of joining any rally, let alone one that sails south to warmer climes! The diverse fleet included Richard Daglishs’ Salmo Salar a well-kept Moody 40. The oldest yacht in the fleet built in 1965, Richard and his crew used the rally as an opportunity to sail Salmo on her last adventurous trip on which she coped extremely well, before resting in her new home port of Marina de Lagos.
“During the first blow in mid-Biscay, her high flared bow and 18 ton displacement coped well with the confused seas.” Brian - Salmo Salar Brother and sister duo Keith and Alice Sammons entered ARC Portugal with their yacht Spirit III, a Beneteau First 405. Unsure of their future sailing ambitions, the rally enabled them to discover if offshore sailing was suited to them and the boat whilst seeing some amazing sights en route.
“Last night after crossing into deep water, the phosphorescence was like our own private disco with some inquisitive dolphins providing some additional light displays, seemingly wearing funky green neon...!” Brent, Mia and Nir of Porcellum ready to set off from Plymouth
Keith - Spirit III
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Distances Bayona 230 miles Madeira 121 miles Azores 777 miles Lagos, Algarve 99 miles Canary Islands 709 miles
worldcruising.com Shiraz leaving Povoa de Varzim
ARC PORTUGAL For Rob and Barb on their Oyster 406 Zoonie, the rally south was the start of their exciting Azorian circuit, taking time with the rally exploring Portugal on the way, Zoonie turned north to the Azores after their arrival in Lagos.
“The Rally officially came to an end on the Wednesday evening with a lovely meal, prize-giving and nightcaps on each others’ boats. The weather is all fair for a departure to Santa Maria in the Azores on Monday” Barb – Zoonie It is a surprise to some how many canine companions are seen in World Cruising Club rallies and ARC Portugal was no exception this year. Becoming the fleet pet, Hudson a young beagle on board Mark and Debs’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45, patrolled the pontoons in every port meeting and making new friends along the way.
Brent Williams, crew and his brand new catamaran Porecellum, a Lagoon 39, saw ARC Portugal as a voyage of discovery. For Brent this was the perfect opportunity to shake down the boat testing both themselves and the catamaran in coastal and offshore conditions. All this whilst discovering new ports, cultures and sailing amongst the safety and camaraderie of the fleet were his main attractions for joining the rally. Following ARC Portugal, Brent’s ambitions were to cruise the Mediterranean before prepping the boat for crossing the Atlantic and exploring the Caribbean. The reason for joining a rally is not always solely to broaden horizons, test a boat or challenge a crew. For John and Chris on Seclusion, a Moody 38, it was all of these and more, having recently married, ARC Portugal was also their honeymoon getaway sailing south towards the sun!
Discovering Portugal Following a week of high winds that had caused the dispersion of the fleet, opposite conditions of barely a breath of breeze greeted ARC Portugal on the morning of the start of Leg 2 from Bayona to Povoa de Varzim. During the 55nm leg, the crews crossed borders and time zones for an evening arrival in the heart of Portugal’s vinho verde wine region. Day sails with start and finish lines made the remainder of the fleet’s journey south to Marina de Lagos entertaining as Steve’s log from yacht Ca Canny rightly captures:
Newlyweds John & Chris on Seclusion
“Please bear in mind that this is a rally and not a race. A fact that seemed to escape our skipper shortly after we had a radio message from Seclusion on the VHF saying “watch out behind we’re coming through!”. Instantly Geoff’s knuckles turned white on the helm and orders were barked to pull sheets (ropes), slacken things (who knows why) and then raise the gennaker (that we’d agreed that morning we wouldn’t because it was all too much hassle).” Steve - Ca Canny As winds began to be more favourable, so the start lines became more colourful; “At midday yesterday in Povoa de Varzim a northerly breeze allowed for a colourful downwind start of spinnakers and cruising chutes as they made their way to Porto, a short 12nm passage.” Each stopover on the rally route offers some great tours and crew dinners giving an insight into the culture and cuisine of Portugal.
“Porto itself was a highlight, such a vibrant and atmospheric place, all of the crews packed into six tuk-tuks weaving through the busy streets. We were also treated to a tasting session at the Churchill’s port lodge.” Tim & Nicky - Remedy of Mylor
Barb and Rob of Zoonie, in Sines
Tim and Tina put aside life on land and have put their efforts into their new floating home Shiraz, a Bavaria 42. With plans to charter her in the Mediterranean, ARC Portugal was a safe and fun delivery trip south to their new cruising grounds. Along the way Tim and Tina had friends and family join at the various stopovers and have made lasting friends to continue cruising with.
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ARC PORTUGAL
Debs, Mark and Hudson the Beagle on Hapatoni in Oeiras
Crews of Salsus & Spirit III enjoy the TukTuk tour of Porto
Continuing the rally spirit, it was announced that a number of the fleet sailing south to the Mediterranean or beyond would do so together, extending their experience of the previous weeks.
“Portugal is displaying all her finery and we are loving the gentle breezes, gorgeous weather and enchanting towns. Santiago was a joy! Porto fun on the tuk-tuk tour and great port wine. Peniche a nice break and now, Oeiras! Greg is really looking forward to the sardine crew BBQ tonight!” Jane - Orion
Arrival in numbers As the fleet progressed towards Lagos, so the temperature noticeably increased making the chance to sail with a fresh breeze very welcome. Due to the shorter distances of each leg after crossing Biscay, the crews would almost always be sailing in each other’s company and as a result the fleet’s arrival into the various marinas was always a spectacle.
The start of new adventures The fleet’s arrival in the final port of the rally, Marina de Lagos was a milestone. Having planned their trip over the last few years, arriving in Lagos was a real accomplishment for the crews and for the majority, the start of new sailing adventures. The friendships formed on ARC Portugal are evident throughout the duration however the extent of such isn’t always recognised until the end of the rally. A final presentation and prize giving reflected on the achievements and fun memories of the weeks sailed together, making for an entertaining evening to finish a very enjoyable rally.
“
How to condense the last few weeks into one log entry� It’s been chock full of experiences, with some wonderful sailing, great people and busy days in port.” Tim - Remedy of Mylor
Nikita and Zoonie come alongside
The routine of calling the rally control team via VHF on their approach became very familiar. A response of berthing instructions including location, fender positions and lines were given before a rally ‘yellow shirt’ indicated the desired berth, ready to take lines and on more than one occasion be that extra roving fender. From a relatively empty harbour, the ARC Portugal fleet always transform their destination into a vibrant, colourful setting with all yachts dressed overall with flags. Along with the colour of the full pontoons comes the atmosphere created with dock parties and sunset rendezvous a regular occurrence.
“The social side of the rally is fab both on and off the water and we are enjoying making new friends!” Alice & Keith - Spirit III
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
Haapasaari Island Mariehamn Kökar
Helsinki
St. Petersburg
Tallinn Stockholm
Gotska Sandön Visby
Kalmar
Møns Klint
Bornholm
Kiel
Six Capitals in Six Weeks Exploring Europe’s east sea with ARC Baltic Skippers’ Briefing in Kiel
World Cruising Club’s (WCC) newest rally, ARC Baltic was launched in September 2013, and immediately proved popular with the six country, six capital in six weeks rally reaching its entry limit within 24 hours of registration opening. Intended to combine discovery of the culture and history of the region, with a voyage to Russia and back, cruising through the islands and skerries of the Finnish and Swedish archipelagos, ARC Baltic was always going to be more than just a sail in company.
Flexibility is key Led by Baltic veteran Hans Hansell aboard his Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49 Working on a Dream, and supported by WCC yellowshirts Joel Chadwick and Cecilie Hammersland, the rally fleet gathered at the Schilksee Marina in the famous German port of Kiel. Twenty-seven yachts from ten different nations, all keen for an adventurous summer cruise.
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ARC BALTIC Overcoming challenges and difficulties
The fleet rafted in Rønne, Bornholm
During the fleet’s 200 nautical mile passage to the medieval town of Visby on the Swedish island of Gotland, winds were not particularly favourable. It was a tiring passage of gusty winds and short steep waves typical of the Baltic. With these challenges the passage created a variety of boat problems including engine failures, rudder complications and damage to sails. This said, it is at these moments that the rally benefits become apparent. Thanks to fellow sailors and the rally organisation, help is never far away, whether it is a tow in to harbour, knowledgeable advice, ordering spare parts for your arrival or an extra pair of hands helping with docking.
As with all WCC rallies flexibility is key and a day prior to the start of the inaugural ARC Baltic, the forecast of strong easterly winds forced the combined decision to change the destination of the first port and bring the start forward 12 hours. With the majority of the fleet departing Kiel after a welcome dinner at the Kieler Yacht Club, the first ARC Baltic was underway and headed to the Danish island of Bornholm, some 170 nautical miles east.
“By lunchtime Tuesday the whole fleet had arrived in Rønne Harbour on Bornholm, all berthed together and looking great with all their flags flying in the sunshine. The winds are increasing and it looks like a good decision by the rally team to leave Kiel early and beat the gale.” Paul & Elaine - Jennie B
Rally atmosphere & shore side activities
A tour to Northern Europe’s largest medieval fortification Hammershus Castle and chance to try the locally smoked herring was just a small taster of what crews would experience for the rest of the rally. The gathering of the fleet in Rønne gave crews an opportunity get to know each other more fully. Yachts of all shapes and sizes from Johnathan Martins Southerly 32 Ballygown Bay to the impressive 60ft Chuck Paine designed Whimbrel owned by Paul and Tina Bragg were dressed overall with rally flags and bunting. In this colourful setting the first of many crew barbeques and dock parties warmed up. Despite everyone’s efforts, the impressive fillet from Capraia III set a high cooking standard for the rest of the rally. Halstein of Capraia III prepares his fillet
“After having given up all hopes, I found it very reassuring to hear from WCC in the UK. They were actively involved in looking for possible alternatives for us to continue our adventure.” Erik – Santa Maria
Remote cruising - Baltic style The first opportunity to discover real Baltic cruising was the fleet’s visit to the island of Gotska Sandön with its beautiful white sand beaches providing a sense of the tranquillity and remoteness. Over the centuries the island has been inhabited mostly by fisherman and seal hunters, but is renowned locally as the home Peter Gottberg, an 18th century wrecker and pirate.
“We had a wonderful 50 mile spinnakerup sail north to Gotska Sandön, an island national park with a large seal population. We anchored off to NE point at around 5 pm for a few hours to explore the island and go for a swim.” Ted & Jane – Longbow of Argyll
Despite its commercial nature, Rønne with its large harbour situated on the western coast of Bornholm was the perfect stopover for the fleet given the prevailing weather conditions.
“Rønne is the quaint capital town of the island with some lovely shops and restaurants. We visited the nearby beach and had a swim in the Baltic which was refreshing and surprisingly not at all bone achingly cold.” Richard & Tina - Jubilare The picturesque countryside and small attractive fishing villages of Bornholm were made easily accessible by the abundance of bike rentals and cycle paths across the island.
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15 “We’ve just returned from seeing ‘Swan Lake’ at the small theatre in the Hermitage, and had earlier today done a rally tour to several famous landmarks. The tour was amazing and the ballet was brilliant.” John & Sue - Jumbuck
Yacht Jubilare Scandinavian Mooring
“A city of contrasts - that’s the best way to describe it. A big sprawling, confusing, amazing and impressive place. It has been an experience not to be missed which we will long remember.” Paul & Elaine - Jennie B
On arrival it was a case of ‘spot who has their dinghy inflated’ and radio them to kindly ask for a lift ashore, normally in exchange for a cold beer. The beaches, forests, historic village and seal sanctuary made for a relaxing visit before crews returned by dinghy or braved a swim. Then the spinnakers were re-hosited en route to the Estonian capital, Tallinn.
Anticipation and excitement Arriving at Tallinn there was sense of excitement at reaching into the old Eastern Block. Situated in the 1980 Moscow Olympics marina, the aura of Estonia’s soviet dominated period surrounded the fleet. The mooring was typical Baltic style; picking up a mooring buoy and going stern or bow to the dock. It was evident that the fleet had managed to improve their skills since some ‘interesting’ first attempts following departure from Kiel. Discovering Tallinn medieval past as a Hanseatic trading city was the real delight of the stopover. Crew’s made the most of their time there including a guided tour around the beautiful old town surrounded by its historic city walls. Even the rain could not dampen the rally atmosphere which had evidently grown over the previous week. A crew dinner set in a medieval cellar located in the old town’s main square was chance for new crew members to mingle and meet the rest of the fleet, before starting the passage to Russia.
The Winter Palace in Saint Petersburg
Receiving detailed information about destination ports is customary on WCC rallies and departing Tallin was no exception. An informative briefing describing the approach and entry procedures to Russia was then followed by a historical presentation, providing cultural context to the places visited.
“As usual the WCC team were well prepared with all the information we will need for clearing into Russia. Hans the skipper of our lead boat also gave a fascinating talk on the complicated history of wars and alliances in the Baltic over the last few hundred years.” Paul & Elaine - Jennie B
The second half of the rally provided a different experience to the first. Contrasting to the organised chaos of Saint Petersburg were the welcoming and tranquil bays, narrow channels and picturesque anchorages of the Finnish archipelago, which set the tone for an delightful cruise west for the remainder of the rally.
“Spent the rest of Monday and Tuesday winding our way through the stunning Finnish Archipelago. Thousands of islands, many with a wooden holiday home, jetty and flagpole, and many more totally uninhibited.”
An experience not to be missed
John & Sue – Jumbuck
The sail and approach to Saint Petersburg through Russian territorial waters is an experience in itself. Sharing the 70 mile controlled approach with cruise liners and cargo ships whilst being monitored and periodically contacted by the Russian coastguard creates a sense of excitement as well as anticipation of what is to come. In fact the clearance at Kronstadt Island went smoothly with assistance from Vladimir Ivankiv, the local agent organised by WCC.
The hottest day in Helsinki for 51 years met the fleet in their new found home of the rocky inlets and skerries. Moored on the small island of Bleckholmen, home to the largest and oldest yacht club in Finland, the Nyländska Jaktklubben (NJK), a visit to the marina sauna didn’t seem necessary! Barbeques, tours, informative presentations about the archipelago and a crew dinner in the magnificent yacht club left fond memories of the city and eagerness to see what was next.
‘We checked into Russia at Kronstadt helped by Vladimir who did a great job. It was a painless process which only took about 20 minutes including having the boat searched.” Paul & Elaine – Jennie B The hustle and bustle of Saint Petersburg on the water and ashore added to the experience for the fleet’s visit. A busy schedule of tours, dinners, ballets and operas entertained skippers and crews for their stopover in Russia.
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An unexpected heatwave
“After the second night the fleet saluted Helsinki harbour with all flags up as we sailed around the inner harbour together – the parade was most spectacular.” Erik – Santa Maria
Rewarding yet dangerous The weather continued to shine on the fleet as they ventured through the narrow channels of the archipelago making one ask ‘are we in the Baltic or the tropics?’ It was a test of navigation too, with one or two boats grazing their keels on the way, but the fleet could enjoy the reward; sailing in the archipelago was simply beautiful.
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ARC BALTIC Peaceful anchorage in the archipelago
“Meandering through the well-marked channels of the archipelago with a new vista at every turn requires attention to pilotage but is fascinating. The pleasure of waking up in a flat calm anchorage with tendrils of mist drifting across the water is hard to beat.” Paul & Elaine – Jennie B
“Lots of sheltered anchorages to choose from although you do have to watch out for rocks - we gave Mother Finland a gentle kiss at one point!” Paul & Elaine – Jennie B Stopping at the Åland capital Mariehamn, the marina is marked by one of Gustaf Erikssons’ historic Windjammers, Pommern, providing an intriguing link to the towns sailing past. In Mariehamn a dock party on a narrow pontoon made for a great evening before boats left to pick routes through the small channels of the archipelago en route to Stockholm.
Sweden at its finest Moored in the small KSSS Marina in Saltsjöbaden close to the centre of Stockholm, the fleet enjoyed a tour to the impressive Wasa Museum; a fascinating discovery of the Swedish naval past and of course to finish the day another crew barbeque overlooking the glorious sunsets in the archipelago.
The penultimate stopover at the Swedish town of Kalmar has an approach through the Kalmar Sound. Building headwinds separated those showing perseverance to sail and those content to motor. The town boasts an impressive Renaissance castle which was strategic defence point of the Swedish border from the twelfth century and of which a guided tour took the fleet deeper once again into the Baltic’s past.
“Kalmar itself is a very pretty historical town, with an impressive castle. We like it so much we may indeed spend one more night here.” John & Sue - Jumbuck The picturesque town and marina offers great facilities. This, combined with a new found love for the Baltic and the forecast of the tail end of hurricane Bertha’s stronger winds, meant some of the fleet decided to finish their time with the rally in Kalmar. Indeed several intend to stay for the winter.
Making it possible to sail Scandinavia The tail end of hurricane Bertha brought tough conditions as the fleet attempted their last passage of ARC Baltic 2014. The challenging conditions created impressive electrical storms causing some damage to yachts skippered by Andy Oliver and John Perryman who subsequently agreed that “electrical storms are only impressive from a distance.” The challenges encountered when sailing only add to the achievement of arriving in a port and for the fleet, this combined with the accomplishment of sailing to six countries, six capitals, in six weeks made the arrival in Klintholm Havn on the island of Mön, Denmark a celebratory occasion. On return from a tour to Copenhagen (the final of the six capitals) crews were treated to a full buffet of locally smoked fish and meats for an evening of farewells, laughter and reminders of their achievements. Over the six weeks of the rally the fleet of 27 boats explored, shared knowledge and made lasting friendships which was evident when many continued to sail together following the end of the rally.
“Thank you World Cruising for arranging ARC Baltic Rally! And even an greater thank you to the rally team who has made it possible for so many to experience sailing in Scandinavia. Without their commitment and willingness to help it had been much harder for many of us to have time to enjoy the stops.” Tommy & Annita – Tomanita II
Dock party in Mariehamn
Farewell dinner & presentation
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MALTS CRUISE
Malts Cruise During the two week Malts Cruise, our happy band of sailors got to explore the islands, lochs and anchorages surrounding Skye and the Inner Hebrides islands, learning about the delights of single malt whisky and discovering the region’s unique culture, amazing wildlife and superb scenery.
The band in Plockton
Dolphin encounter Plockton Bay
Setting off the Oban, boats initially headed north up the Sound of Mull, to Tobermory, before spreading out to explore the Small Isles - Muck, Eigg, Canna and Rum. A barbecue of locally caught venison was one of many highlights at the stopover on Rum, as well as the chance to look for the island’s rare Sea Eagles in their natural habitat on a guided wildlife walk. A dose of strong wind meant a day at anchor, then a real mixed bag of wind and sunshine followed as boats crossed the tip of Skye and headed south again. Once consolation for the calm days was the excellent wildlife encounters they allowed; many crews saw large pods of dolphins, groups of minke whales, as well as playful seals in the anchorages.
At anchor in Dunvegan Bay
BBQ at Plockton
Complimenting the organised tours of distilleries at Oban, Tobermory and Talisker, crews also had a chance to join an informal “nosing” - a tutored tasting of a range of single malt whiskies to experience the depth of taste and flavour they have. Malts Cruise will be taking a break in 2015 with the next edition planned for July 2016. Skua (Jeanneau 42i), Kyle of Lochalsh
Whisky nosing on board Spray of Wight
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
Mast Climbing Fears?
Consider self-ascending as an option by Clare Pengelly Many of us dread the prospect of going up a mast. It is a task to be avoided and procrastinated over until it can no longer be avoided. We often make a whole host of excuses: “ We haven’t got the right crew or enough crew on board today” “ It’s too windy, rainy, sunny, hot or cold” “Maybe the problem can wait” Do these sound familiar? They did to me. I have been up masts many times, but always on modern boats, fully crewed, winched up by one crew-member with another controlling a safety line. But now on my own boat, I am often at the boat alone or with just one crew who may never have been involved in mast climbing before. What seemed simple before seems daunting now. With the right knowledge and equipment, mast climbing even alone can be done with confidence, and it is not at all hard, really that’s true. Set up correctly it is not hard to climb a mast yourself – I would say much less hard than having to wind someone up using a winch. I actually felt safer pulling myself up than relying a person and a winch, and the descent was much smoother too.
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“
I actually felt safer pulling myself up than relying a person and a winch, and the descent was much smoother too.”
worldcruising.com
MAST CLIMBING sunshine degraded by UV, or has chaffed unnoticed perhaps simply against the rigging over winter? Barney suggests using a dedicated specialist rope for mast climbing. Likewise with bosons’ chairs and harnesses, choosing a harness for comfort while working aloft is different to the needs of an agile rock-limpet.
How? I went on a mast-climbing course run by Barney Green of Higher Safety. While his day job is height safety in the construction industry, where 5 days and 500 hours are required just to gain a basic qualification, in 4 hours he taught us to climb a mast safely and with confidence. We started with the equipment. The equipment is not climbing equipment, but selected equipment used for professional industrial roped access all over the world. While rock climbers just need a rope to catch them, the best rope for falling is a stretchy one. Being stopped from falling by a rope with no stretch, like a halyard, is at best uncomfortable but at worst can be dangerous depending on the length of fall. Then there is the state of the rope to be considered; how much do you trust a halyard that has been out in the
School of Yachting
With equipment discussed and best options identified, it was onto the practical session. Using a well fitting comfortable sit-harness, a dedicated line of the right strength and stretch, along with a few pieces of well chosen equipment, (again there are many on the market, but some are much better suited to mast-ascending and descending than others for reasons that may not be immediately apparent in the shop), I was ready to go. Yes there is a technique to learn, but with a 4:1 mechanical advantage and webbing steps to comfortably stand up on while I pushed the ascender further up the rope, it was an easy climb, amazing! While of course it would be possible to read up on the subject, choose your own gear and work out your own technique, in 4 hours I went from “not knowing” to “knowing and confident”, and it doesn’t get better than that.
For more information contact Barney Green at Higher Safety E. info@highersafety.org W. www.highersafety.org/special-courses
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SANTA MARTA MARINA
Santa Marta Marina
Tucked into one of the most beautiful coastal areas of the Caribbean, Marina Santa Marta is a jewel on Colombia’s Caribbean coast.
The new, full service Marina Santa Marta, offers cruisers a comfortable base for discovering the dramatic landscapes, wild coastlines, isolated beaches and Spanish colonial and indigenous heritage that the region has to offer, whether visiting as a live-aboard cruiser or staying as a permanent berth holder. Situated on the northeastern coast of Colombia, Santa Marta is a natural first port of call for boats heading west en route towards Panama from Trinidad or the ABC Islands – Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao. Good transport connections mean it is easy to get to Colombia’s other major coastal cities, Baranquilla and Cartagena, or safely leave a boat and travel inland to explore the jungles and mountains of Colombia and Ecuador. Dramatic improvements in the security situation over recent years have seen rapid grow in tourism to the country, and this stunning coastline has opened up to cruisers keen to sample the region’s many charms. The city of Santa Marta is the second oldest colonial settlement in the Americas; its well sheltered bay first attracted the Spanish Conquistador Rodrigo de Bastidas in 1525, and still offers a welcome haven for today’s maritime visitors. A popular tourist resort for Colombians, the city offers a mix of historic and cultural
attractions combined with delightful beach-front living, with numerous open-air waterfront cafés and restaurants to enjoy. Just 40km inland the coastal plain gives way to the dramatic peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, an isolated mountain range separated from the main Andes chain. Reaching an altitude of 5,700 m (18,700 ft) it is the world’s highest coastal range and covers an area of around 17,000 km2 (6,600 sq mi). As well as dramatic scenery and diverse flora and fauna, the region boasts the historic ruins of Teyuna, a pre-Hispanic city 650 years older than Machu Picho. Known as Ciudad Perdida (lost city) in Spanish, the site was rediscovered for science in 1972, and is now a popular hiking destination. The 6 day (44km) return trek culminates in a climb up some 1,200 stone steps through dense jungle, before emerging into the ruins covering a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, and a network of tiled roads and small circular plazas.
Marina Information Marina Santa Marta Carrera 1, No. 22-93, Santa Marta, Colombia Location 11”14’34.45”N / 74”13’04.91”W Email operaciones@marinasantamarta.com.co Telephone +575 421 5037 Website www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en VHF Ch. 72 / 16 Among Colombian marinas, Marina Santa Marta is the only one that offers state-ofthe-art amenities for yachts up to 41m (135ft) LOA. Facilities include floating docks, a fuel-dock, hot showers, sensor-activated bathrooms, a laundry room, a captain and crew lounge and a mini-market. A boatyard and several restaurants are brand new additions to the marina.
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SANTA MARTA MARINA
“
Arrived at Santa Marta Marina on Nov 1st 2013 and stayed until midJanuary 2014 whilst we travelled extensively in Colombia and Ecuador. The staff at the marina were courteous, friendly and very helpful at all times, and facilities were excellent with showers, laundry, lounge Extending northeast from Santa Marta is the beautiful and clean toilets.” coastal Parque Nacional Tayron. Peter and Helen S/V Common Crossing, Tayana 48
Encompassing some stunning Caribbean beaches, the National Park stretches along a coastline of rocky headlands and coves whose distinctive boulders and jagged outcrops offer an inspiring vista.
Tourist Attractions
Climate Climate varies according to altitude. The coast is tropical, hot and humid; Santa Marta has an average of 29°C (85°F), but with a cooling sea breeze most evenings whilst the Sierra Nevada area ranges from hot to glacial in the snowcapped mountain peaks. NE trade winds cool the coast during the winter, while the summer has much lighter winds. Hurricanes rarely reach as far south as Colombia. Colombian Met Office forecasts www.cioh.org.co/meteorologia/PreCaMaritima.php
Security Visits to major cities and other popular tourist destinations are not usually a problem, however local advice should be sought before travelling to remote jungle areas inland, especially close to Venezuela.
Santa Marta is the top tourist destination in Colombia, thanks to its scenic surroundings and its cultural and historical heritage. The city has excellent tourist infrastructure with modern hotels and restaurants. The Fiestas del Mar (Ocean Festival) takes place every year in July, combining concerts, water pageants and much more. The nautical fair organized by Marina Santa Marta – Expomarina, has many national and international participants and a memorable opening party.
Don’t miss... • Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
Tayrona National Natural: surrounded by virgin nature, these crystal clear beaches and spectacular corals are some of the most beautiful in the world. Taganga: a typical fishing village located ten minutes from downtown Santa Marta. It is very popular due to its beautiful landscape, viewpoints and restaurants. More information www.lonelyplanet.com/colombia/ Pilot Books www.noonsite.com/Countries/Colombia Admiralty Charts 2267: Ports on the North Coast of Colombia 1276: Bahia Santa Marta to Punta Canoas 1277: Punta Canoas to Isla Fuerte Electronic Charts Navionics Gold Charts - Caribbean & Americas, from £150 Garmin BlueChart - Caribbean Regular - G2 Vision from £220
• Basilica Cathedral of Santa Marta
The Beaches Santa Marta Bay: the historic center of the city is just meters from the bay; enjoy a stroll along the promenade Paseo de Bastidas.
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
World ARC 2014-15
Every day stepping out from the hotel is different
World ARC 2014-15 recently made landfall in Mackay, Australia. This is a significant milestone in the fleet’s circumnavigation as crews have crossed the entire Pacific Ocean and made it to the halfway point in the Rally. In reaching Australia, and before the fleet head out to free-cruise Queensland’s beautiful Whitsunday Islands, it is time to reflect on the last few months, travelling through the western half of the Pacific. In a recent survey, one of our participants referred to what World Cruising Club offers on World ARC as ‘concierge sailing’. It is a title to be proud of and the analogy seems a good one. Rally Control aim to be that person, always available, who can point you in the right direction to make the most of ‘your stay’. Those people, with a smile, who can just make life a bit easier, so ‘guests’ finish their stay with a richer experience than they might have had.
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The view from on board Folie a Deux
Leaving Port Vila, Vanuatu
“
One of the great things is how you have the constant company of great people around you... but at the same time... the scenery is constantly changing and keeping things fresh and interesting.”
worldcruising.com
WORLD ARC
The fleet on moorings in Niue
But to comment further the analogy, the lives of the World ARC yellow-shirted “concierges” is certainly far easier when the neighbourhood is as rich in interesting things to do, with spectacular things to see and friendly people to meet. This could not be truer for our stopovers in the western Pacific, and as a result the crews were really pleased with each of the places which they visited. The World ARC crews are always spoilt in some of the remotest Pacific places which they visit. The atoll of Suwarrow has no inhabitants for most of the year and is 500 nautical miles from any other significant land. “Firefly is anchored in the lee of Anchorage Island in the Suwarrow lagoon. It is stunningly beautiful and feels like we are miles from anywhere - and we are! … we were wondering if we could stay here for ever!” Paul & Susie, Firefly. And owing to the limited number of moorings at Niue, the next stopover on the route, Rally Control had to request that a few boats stayed there longer too. “We were made to slum it for another two days in one of the most remote and awesomely beautiful places on the planet!” David, Skyelark of London
The remote rock of Niue is equally isolated, although it does have a population of about 1000 people and a weekly flight schedule to Auckland. There’s not much industry on the island and so the visit of World ARC always makes a real difference. Keith Vial, the Commodore of the Yacht Club and his team had helped craft another great programme. “What a warm welcome at the High Commissioner’s home in Niue. Drinks and snacks on the veranda, a welcoming talk, and insight into life on the island. Then, a Rally buffet dinner with dancing and singing with the locals and high school students. Food in great variety with local dishes in abundance. It was a festive night ashore for all!” Charlie, Celebrate From Bora Bora it had been a ‘Hop, Skip & a Jump’, through Suwarrow and Niue to arrive in the Vava’u group of the Kingdom of Tonga. Here the programme was designed to bring the fleet back together before yachts sailed their own cruising plans throughout the rest of Tonga and into Fiji.
One of the events on the programme was a trip to the Ene’io Beach Botanical Gardens, hosted by their founder Haniteli Fa’anunu. The group learnt about different species found in the Pacific and, as an acknowledgement of World ARC’s close association with Ene’io Beach over several years, witnessed the unveiling the ‘World ARC Way’. This development represents a sponsorship commitment by World Cruising Club over the next three years. The cruising area in Vava’u is an excellent one and popular with charterers from New Zealand and Australia. The weather is mostly kind and predictable and the shorelines, above and below the water, are also extremely interesting. There are numerous caves and coral gardens which can be snorkelled or dived on.
“
We were made to slum it for another two days in one of the most remote and awesomely beautiful places on the planet!” David, Skyelark of London
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worldcruising.com The ceremonial exchange of gifts in Tanna, Vanuatu
“We drove our dinghy right into Swallow’s cave, which is an impressively large cave with many alcoves of stalactites and stalagmites, and of course, swallows! The light at sunset shone into the cave with a blue and orange glow which was just magical! We jumped off the dinghy and snorkelled every corner of the cave with underwater lights, finding many fish and geologic formations that made it a special memory”
WORLD ARC Although most of the crews leaving at this stage, had slowed down since Tonga, they did manage to just make it to Musket Cove Resort in western Fiji for one last party. It was actually a great four day programme and with such a small but perfectly suited island, easy for crews to catch up with one another and / or say their farewells before leaving. The Tonga to Fiji leg of the Rally is another free cruising period so all crews could choose where and when they wanted to sail. A popular choice was to check in at Savusavu on the easterly island of Vanua Levu before wandering west to the principal island of Viti Levu, the capital Suva and the excellent facilities at Vuda Point and Port Denarau Marinas. The fleet really warmed to Fiji – the friendly locals and the quiet, beautiful anchorages.
“The incredibly warm hospitality is everywhere, even in the most stressful cities like Nadi and Suva… but the quiet anchorages near small islands, owned by the village, are the best places.”
After the Fiji rendezvous and the sad farewells to the 10 boats which left the fleet there, the majority of the fleet continued on to Vanuatu. The winds were expected to be uncomfortably high for the next passage and so the competitive start was abandoned to allow crews to decide for themselves when they should depart. In hindsight it was a good call, with most crews very content with their decision. Some of those who stayed in Musket Cove a bit longer got to see over 50 knots on their windex. There’s a huge contrast in what’s found at the start and finish of the Musket Cove to Tanna, Vanuatu leg. The luxurious Fijian resort is great but it could not be more different from the basic surrounding of Port Resolution in Tanna. The two places are worlds apart and the only common theme is really the friendliness of the people. The friendly warmth of the villagers of Port Resolution is felt as soon as one steps ashore and it was reciprocated and developed during the next few days of the stay; goods were exchanged, generators were fixed, fresh fruit and walking tours were offered. Frankly there are very few places on the route where the World ARC fleet is welcomed in quite this special way. It is an exceptional experience and the memories of the experience will stick in each crew member’s mind for many years.
Dagmar & Christoph on Flomaida
Russ & Laurie Owen, Nexus Tonga was also the place where several crews in the Rally changed down a gear to continue some of the Rally route at a slower pace. This is one of the great benefits of the new, annual cycle of World ARC. Crews with more time to spend on their whole circumnavigation can begin one World ARC from the Caribbean and accompany that group across the Pacific, before leaving the Rally in the western Pacific. The crew can then take time out to explore this part of the World, before linking up with the next World ARC passing through.
The Rally fleet in Port Resolution, Tanna
To support this, World Cruising Club launched a new rally, ARC New Zealand, which brings together those boats who wish to spend the ‘off-season’ exploring New Zealand. The Rally will gather the yachts together in Noumea, New Caledonia in November and then the yachts will sail together down to Opua, on North Island, New Zealand. The arrival there is timed to coincide with the annual Opua Cruisers Festival which will showcase what is available to the visiting yachtsmen. In the next season, these yachts will join together again to make the ‘uphill’ journey back to Tonga and meet the next World ARC fleet in Fiji.
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worldcruising.com To deepen the experience on Tanna, the crews were fortunate to also visit the Mount Yasur volcano. An impressive gurgling volcano which throws its lava into the sky to the delight of the visitors which line its crater at dusk. It is again a memorable experience and well noted on the Rally ‘Top Five’ highlights.
WORLD ARC Mount Yasur volcano on Tanna
“Before getting there we could hear the volcano. It was the most foreboding sound I have ever heard in my life. Nothing you see on TV can prepare you for the sound of what you’re hearing. Two deep rumbling staccato type sounds in quick succession, repeated every few seconds. The sort of sound you might hear watching a science fiction movie… The red hot rocks and lava would then rain down in front of us. A sign at the beginning of the walkway did say ‘think safety.’ Yeah!!” Brian Fox, American Spirit II World ARC also continued its support to this remote community with financial help for local projects. Building on other past sponsorship, World ARC 2014-15 participants concentrated their support to improvements at the infant and junior school in the village and through this generosity, building work has already started the first of two new structures which will really benefit the learning and living environment for the children and their teachers. The Rally can only stop in Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu, for less than a week but it is always a pleasant and friendly gathering at the Waterfront Marina. It is also a useful place to provision after the remoteness of Tanna. However, with the strict Australian agricultural protection measures looming, crews must be disciplined about what
and how much they buy. That said, there are no shops on the 1000+ mile journey to Australia and crews always over-budget, leading to an ‘eating marathon’ during the journey. “Fruit and vegetables had to be eaten or taken from us when we arrived. This lead to panic from our crew who, when they weren’t sleeping were trying to eat everything on board!” Tim & Clare Hagon, Ghost
“One of the great things is how you have the constant company of great people around you, to talk to, to help fix your boats, to go on trips with but at the same time, outside the group, the scenery is constantly changing and keeping things fresh and interesting”.
The World ARC fleet now have several weeks to free cruise in Australia until Darwin, where the fleet regrouped again before setting off to cross their second ocean – the Indian Ocean.
Every day stepping out from the hotel is different. World Cruising Club would like to thank all those along the route which help support World ARC: Bora Bora: Mai Kai Marina, Comité de Tourism Niue: Niue Yacht Club, Niue Tourism, New Zealand High Commission, Vava’u, Tonga: The Tongan Visitors Bureau, Eneio Beach Botanical Gardens, The Aquarium Café, The Mango Restaurant, Tropicana Café, Bellavista Café, Tropical Tease Fiji: Copra Shed Marina, Curly Carswell, Vuda Point Marina, Port Denarau Marina, Musket Cove Resort & Marina, Fiji Rum, Vanuatu: The Waterfront Marina and Restaurant, Vanuatu Tourism Office Mackay: Mackay Marina Village, Mackay Tourism, Clarion Mackay Marina Hotel. And thanks also to all the authorities of Customs, Immigration, Health, Quarantine and Ports, who have dealt so efficiently and cheerfully with all our clearances in and out of each country.
The crews of Kathea, Chika-Lu & Nexus enjoying the welcome in Tanna
A colourful welcome to Port Resolution
The fleet was joined by a few more boats that started their adventure from Australia, making a fleet of twenty two yachts.
Suwarrow: miles from anywhere!
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LATITUDES
Autumn/Winter 2014/15
An Ocean Cruise Portugal to the UK via the Azores
Rob and Barb White joined ARC Portugal 2014 for a sail south to Marina de Lagos. Following the rally, the couple continued cruising on their Oyster 406 Zoonie, venturing to the remote Atlantic outpost of the Azores before heading back to Falmouth, UK. Barbara shares their experience of the “ocean cruise” home to the UK. The harbour at Santa Maria
Before taking part in ARC Portugal this year Rob and I had already decided to return home aboard our Oyster 406 Zoonie, via the Azores, on completion of the Rally. To come home northwards, the reverse way we had travelled in the rally, would probably present us with head winds and current against us. So to use the same winds by sailing in a westerly direction to the Azores and to compensate for the South going current by sailing north of our track, seemed a workable idea. Then to return home from the Azores we would eventually have winds to the west of north and a favourable current.
Barb & Rob White
“
The water sparkled with phosphorescence, shoals of fish were darting under the hull and millions of pale orange jellyfish were captured in the green starboard light.”
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worldcruising.com
HOME VIA THE AZORES I came off watch at midnight knowing I might miss the first sighting of Santa Maria and of course I did. At 3.00am I laughed as Rob was more interested in the sea around us than the lights of Santa Maria.
Picturesque houses on the steep slopes
The water sparkled with phosphorescence, shoals of fish were darting under the hull and millions of pale orange jellyfish were captured in the green starboard light. Shearwater sped ghostlike through the beam of Zoonie’s white steaming light. In the mizzling rain the light of Ponta do Castelo flashed as the beam passed through the rain it made what looked like smoke rings. Vine terraces rose up the steep cliffs, held in place by substantial rock walls and the earthy smell of the land mingled with the cigarette smoke from a lone fisherman in a tiny open boat.
The Rally itself was an excellent shakedown cruise. We all had to deal with a gale halfway across the Biscay and as we approached Cape Finisterre. We also suffered engine fade due to the fuel line having become blocked with paint flakes, a displaced black water tank that leaked after it shifted in the gales and a non-functioning chartplotter, not finally fixed until Lagos, where the Sopramar boatyard got our chart-plotter working and managed to clear the air lock in the black water tank so it could be emptied. We sailed for the Azores on the 3rd July and once clear of the funnelling winds off the Algarve coast we shook out the reefs and moved into the Atlantic. The wind settled to an agreeable northerly Force 5, but Rob had two items of news for me. First a Force 6 was coming and second the automatic bilge pump was operating. A thick creamy emulsion of diesel and water was filling the bilge; the inspection hatch on the fuel tank had become cross-threaded when it was replaced in Bayona in June.
The radar went on so we could keep lookout from below whilst we worked; the boat hove-to and virtually motionless, Rob unscrewed and rescrewed down the hatch, bedding it properly this time. It took nearly two hot smelly hours to clean up the mess. By evening the F6 had arrived and although it was uncomfortable Zoonie made good progress. The next morning we were surrounded by common dolphins and shearwater birds swooping along the troughs hunting for small fish and shrimp, on an easing wind. We were approaching half way and had sailed almost all of it. The sea was a beautiful lapis blue and the temperature was rising as we sped towards Santa Maria, the most easterly of the nine Azores islands. Gradually the wind dropped to 7 knots from the west, head on, and we started the engine. Our progress needed to be kept up as we were on a schedule, the batteries could do with a charge and some hot water for showers was nice.
After clearing in with customs and the marina, there were numerous other boat jobs to command our attention on our first day in Vila do Porto marina, Santa Maria’s only port and the oldest town in the Azores. Next day we rented a car and drove easily through the arid side of the island past grazing cattle and tethered goats, hedges of bamboo protecting pineapple and maize crops from the wind. Then suddenly we came across the Monte das Flores, stopped the car in a stand of pine and eucalyptus trees and emerged to the smell of scented oils and the sound of birdsong. Along the way, the pretty road borders were planted with pollarded maple trees, blue and white hydrangeas, purple blue agapanthus and orange crocosmia and both the roads and borders were carefully maintained. Around the coast, picturesque terracotta tiled homes, restaurants nestled on steeply rising slopes between the coast and rock escarpments. One of these was Maia, where warm and friendly Aida served us bowls of her father’s fish soup, which was delicious and made from the day’s catch, plus her own home grown herbs and vegetables.
The wind veered two days before our arrival and we were able to sail, with the Hydrovane doing the steering, under a beautiful blue sky; the stuff of real cruising. Our watch system means we each have two hours rest before midnight and then we each do a three hour watch, the lucky person who comes off at 3.00am can sleep till they wake naturally. Ponta do Castelo, Santa Maria
Aida’s delicious fish soup
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HOME VIA THE AZORES
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Local fishing boats, Santa Maria
We covered 1220 miles on the final leg, anchoring off the Visitors Yacht Haven after 10 days at sea and we would do it all again.”
At the end of each car day we stocked up at the municipal market for delicious local produce and wandered around the charming town, trying various bars and restaurants. The town is well supplied with small shops and a few supermarkets, and is a peaceful haven for the locals, sailors, tourists and second home owners. The recommended route for the course to the UK is to go north to 45'N and around 20'W before turning for the UK to make the best of the westerly winds around the Azores High and the east going Gulf Stream. So that is what we did. Bigger and more languid bottle-nosed dolphins joined their common friends to keep us company. Sailing for the first day and night we were expecting to enter calm areas across the centre of the high and were worried about using too much diesel. With 1200 miles to go our tank has a range of only 900 miles. Thankfully, we were never out of wind for long and entered one night with the sails goose-winged in a wind that rose to F5 by morning.
At the beginning of day six we reached our turning point and altered course to 060˚ having covered 463 miles on the first leg. On the morning of day seven Zoonie was sailing comfortably downwind with two knots of current under her when another group of humpbacks passed down our port side. When nearly clear of us two of them turned to face the same way as us. We had caught their interest and as one rounded our stern and approached to a few metres from our starboard quarter, breathing loudly, the other one positioned itself directly behind us and starting moving along our wake. They were about our length, but at 45 tonnes, weighed four times as much as us! We had no idea of their intentions so fearing the worst I turned on the engine. They disappeared and surfaced once more, a short distance away, facing their pod.
Predictably, as we crossed onto the Continental Shelf, we left these wonderful leviathans and the shearwaters behind us and gained 24 hours of fog, menacing claws of mist scudding along the troughs towards us. The fine westerly wind that has been with us all the way drops and becomes an easterly, but with about a third of a tank of fuel left we motored with the knowledge we had plenty for the short distance to Falmouth. We covered 1220 miles on the final leg, anchoring off the Visitors Yacht Haven after 10 days at sea and we would do it all again.
Zoonie sets off from Plymouth
Suddenly a wave shot Zoonie around and the wind slammed onto the wrong side of the mainsail stopping Zoonie dead in her tracks as if she had been stunned. I turned the wheel hard over ready for her to shoot around once the wind came back while Rob reefed the genoa. Gradually she turned and I was ready to bring the helm back amidships. All the while, humpback whales swam past us in small pods, their blows visible on either side. Rob called me up on deck to see one surface right beside us, slow down and move across our stern before disappearing.
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Our website has all the sailing gear you’ll ever need. At Gill there are over a thousand items in our range. From sunglasses to full ocean gear. And as you’d expect, everything is tried and tested. Login to worldcruising.com/membersarea and click on the Gill logo to receive your exclusive 15% members discount and free UK delivery.
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LATITUDES
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Books & Gear 1: The Adlard Coles Nautical Quiz Book With 1000 Questions. The Adlard Coles Nautical Quiz Book is perfect for seafaring quizzers. It’s divided into six nauticallyflavoured categories, covering 1,000 questions. Categories range from Geography, Famous people and History to Culture, Science and Trivia. Each round is graded as easy (Able Seaman), medium (Midshipman) or tough (Hard Tack). A random sprinkling of nautical ‘did-you-knows’ adds a little salt to the mix and there’s a quick-fire section at the end to keep everyone on their toes. The Adlard Coles Nautical Quiz Book is the perfect stowaway for cosy evenings aboard or ashore and bound to encourage some night-watch banter. Published by Adlard Coles Nautical Paperback- £6.99 ISBN-9781472909138
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2: Brave or Stupid?
3: MyYacht App
By Tracey Christiansen (Story by Yanne Larsson and Carl Andersson)
MyYacht Free - the no cost app for managing information about your yacht, motorboat or sailboat on your iPhone or iPad is now available from Apple’s AppStore. Owners of all types of boats who want to keep track of all attributes of their yacht from insurance to sails, from hull specifications to electronic equipment now have a perfectly free and easy to use mobile application. MyYacht Free is a simplified version of the paid-for app MyYacht. MyYacht Free allows you to store all types of specifications, from registration and insurance to size and weight - including on all types of equipment, from electronics to deck gear and safety equipment - in a simple to use mobile application. And if you have enabled iCloud, you can back up the data and download it to another device, so that it is always available. Yacht and boat owners can choose between MyYacht and MyYacht Free, making their choice based on price - nothing beats free - and functionality. MyYacht is also useful for making logbook entries, and you can share them on Facebook at the touch of a button. The app MyYacht and MyYacht Free are Apple iOS based and can be downloaded for iPhone and iPad from AppStore
The Unlikely True Story Of How A Seasick Electrician Sailed Around The World. “Brave or Stupid?” tells a very different round the world story: an everyman tale about a middle-aged, seasick electrician with no money who decides to circumnavigate. And it all starts not with a passion for sailing or a search for identity. It starts with a handshake. One of the old-fashioned iron-clad ones. A casual suggestion over wine with best friend Carl Andersson, turns into one of those ideas that just won’t go away. Twenty-four hours later, a handshake decides it. The little details – buying a boat, learning to sail and saving up money – take five years, but in 2002, the two men leave Helsingborg, Sweden on a three-year voyage that will change them forever. Storms, tropical diseases, drama, love and comedy - their story is an adventure like no other. Brave or Stupid? is a book for anyone who has ever gone beyond what is sensible and realistic to discover a whole new world outside and a whole new person inside. This is a book for anyone who still believes in the power of dreams. And handshakes... www.braveorstupid.com
6: Gill Pro Softshell Jacket
4: Gill i2 Base Layer
5: Gill Thermogrid high tech mid layer
What’s underneath really does count! Gill have recently redesigned their popular i2 base layer range offering the wearer excellent fit and comfort along with 50+ UV Protection. Designed specifically for sailors needs, the collection can be worn alone as a cooling technical layer or under an outer shell as a base layer for thermal insulation. A wide selection of styles are available for men and women including zip-neck tops, longsleeve tops and leggings.
Looking for a lightweight yet thermal midlayer? Gill have developed their thermogrid range in a wide range of styles all with excellent stretch, wicking and breathable properties, ideal for wearing on board or ashore. The interior fleece grid structure enhances airflow and improves drying time and the smooth outerface allows for easy layering. Gilets, ¼ zip full zip jacket and leggings are available in both men’s and women’s styles.
Softshell comfort with full waterproof protection. The Pro Softshell jacket is one of the most comfortable waterproof jackets Gill has ever made and better still it comes with complete waterproof protection not offered by many other softshell garments. It has the comfort and feel of a light weight down jacket, but uses a synthetic lining which won’t absorb water with all the protection that you would expect from a Gill waterproof product. Combining warmth and waterproof capabilities, it’s a useful addition to any cruisers kit bag!
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worldcruising.com LATITUDES
Cruising notes from Greece: Check your Insurance Visiting yachts must be insured according to the Greek Law 4256/14. Minimum amounts were revised in April 2014, so make sure your certificate of insurance covers this change or you will face big fines. The original insurance certificate must be carried and a Greek translation showing third party insurance with the amounts in figures. The minimum amounts are: 500,000 euro liability for death or injury by sinking, collision or other cause for crew and third parties; 150,000 euro liability for damage; and 150,000 euro for sea pollution.
Croatia: EU VAT Rules Affect Cruisers in Croatia Before July 2013, boats entering Croatia had to check in for temporary clearance, checking out again when they left. But on joining the EU, boats could be given ‘free circulation’ after registering their T2L document which shows that the boat is of EU origin and that VAT has been paid on it. The T2L document is issued by HMRC in the UK. If it is not possible to prove the boat is of EU origin, import duty may be payable.
A round-up of recent news and information for cruising sailors from Noonsite.com, the global directory for cruising sailors.
Bahamas: Establishing a National Park System The Bahamas National Trust has been working with a local NGO on San Salvador, the San Salvador Living Jewels, to establish a National Park system on the island to ensure the protection of the Island’s extremely diverse but also fragile ecosystems. This partnership has led to a number of critical areas around the Island being identified as part of the new park system. These 5 areas include: Great Lake Park; Pigeon Creek Park; Grahams Harbor; West Coast Dive Site protected Area; Greens Bay Park
Federated States of Micronesia: Fees for Kosrae Increased Again The increase in the fees for entering Kosrae have again been increased, but at a much more modest level than that applied in 2013. Following a dramatic increase in fees in January 2013 due to the appointment of a new Port Authority Manager, action has been taken to update the fee structure for visiting yachts. See noonsite.com for full list of fees payable.
Perfect Galley
USA: Sailing to Alaska Blog Seattle to Alaska and back, and everything in between. Three months, 4000 miles. Derek Hillen and his young family undertook this trip during the Summer of 2013 and his article is wonderful reading for anyone considering this trip. www.theseaissalt.com/sailing-to-alaska
Malaysia: Sabah Passage Notes Sue Woods of MV Solita, has put together these beautiful passage notes following time spent cruising Sabah between 2010- 2013 and has now updated them further following a trip down the west coast of Sabah in 2014. The notes include in-depth information of the area cruised including local maps and a good list of recommended anchorages. www.noonsite.com/images/pdfs/ malaysia-sabah_passage-notes-2014/
Saint Lucia welcomes all ARC participants to its simply beautiful shores
E-mail: information@stlucia.org Saint Lucia: 758 452 4094 www.stlucianow.com
USA: 1800 456 3984 www.stlucianow.com
Canada: 1800 869 0377 www.stlucianow.ca France: 33 1 45 32 0254 www.stlucianow.com
UK: 44 207 341 7000 www.stlucianow.co.uk
Germany: 49 69 89 00 9081 www.jetzt-saintlucia.de