Latitudes USA 3 - Summer 2014

Latitudes

Summer 2014 ISSUE 3

$5.00

21

USA + CANADA

ARC Caribbean 1500 Ready for it’s quarter century

16 ARC DELMARVA

28 CRUISING DIARY

33 ARC EUROPE + ARC USA

ALL THAT IS

SAIL Boat Ownership Adventure Chartering Coastal Cruising Bluewater Cruising Destinations

If it’s under sail, you’ll find it in SAIL Magazine. SAIL’s comprehensive commitment to the sailing lifestyle has made it the most widely-read sailing publication in the world. That’s because SAIL understands the passion their audience has for sailing.

The pages of SAIL reflect the total sailing experience.

We cover every aspect of sailing—be it insights on longrange cruising, advice on trouble-shooting problems with diesel engines, daysailing with the family, racing around the buoys, venturing into foreign ports or the latest on marine electronics. Quite simply, SAIL is designed to help readers better enjoy the sailing lifestyle.

SAIL is an essential companion for sailing enthusiasts.

Since 1970, we have been at the forefront of the sport with compelling editorial content designed to fuel the passion of the active sailor who owns a 25–70ft sailboat.

Gear Techniques Innovation Electronics Learning Technology Maintenance Daysailing Racing People Sailboats Teaching Lifestyle History Boat Design

sailmagazine.com

Clar!s, image builder - Photo Nicolas Claris

When one loves, one doesn't count.

All well and good, but 20! Twenty Bordeaux 60 converged on Porquerolles in June 2013 – and each one unique! Of course, the Bordeaux 60’s success is due in part to CNB’s ability to meet its customers’ specific requirements, based on its experience in ‘one-off’ boat building. And the fact that more than forty Bordeaux 60 yachts can be seen sailing all over the world is due to the architect’s talent, the design office’s expertise, and the shipyard’s industrial organisation. But more than anything, the Bordeaux 60 is a state of mind.

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Discovery owners benefit from the dedicated help, advice and technical support of our highly experienced Owner Care team who are on hand to keep your yacht sailing wherever you are in the world.

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List of Advertisers 26 6 3 4 31 46 24 44 6 8 9 12 24 20 14 14 48 36 2 41 12 36 44

LATITUDES

16

Contents

Bluff House Cover Marina Chesapeake Sailmakers

7

Foreword by Andrew Bishop, MD of World Cruising Club

CNB Discovery Yachts

10

Horizon Hydrovane

27

13

16

J/World

ARC DelMarVa 450 miles around the DelMarVa peninsula

Jeanneau

21

Lagoon

ARC Caribbean 1500 Ready for it’s quarter century

MRP Refits

27

Steve Black In memorandum

28 28

Ocean Marine Yacht Centre

Cruising Diary Baltic adventures continued

Ocean Safety

31

Pantaneus Port Annapolis Marina

Owning a yacht with Horizon Flexible ownership in the Caribbean

Raymarine

33

Sail

ARC Europe + ARC USA Atlantic crossroads

Santa Marta Marina

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38

World ARC Circumnavigators set sail

WRI YB Tracking

Rally News Round up of rallies

Imray

watt&sea

Club News News and events from World Cruising Club and our Corporate Members

IGY Marinas

Nanny Cay

Viewpoint

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Books & Gear The latest books for bluewater sailors

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noonsite.com News updates from the cruising sailor’s information site

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OUR PEOPLE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE!

Over 100 years of combined Bluewater experience.

Our staff has logged over 300,000 ocean miles.

Applying traditional sailmaking techniques with modern technology.

Unmatched quality and detailing in Bluewater cruising sails.

NEW SAILS

SAIL REPAIRS

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World Cruising Club rally participants receive exclusive 20% discounts on New Sails, Canvas and Sail Repairs Visit us on the Web – www.CHESAPEAKE-SAILMAKERS.com Phone 410-263-4840

Prepare for the adventure of a lifetime!

J World Annapolis, The Performance Sailing School, is proud to announce it has partnered with the World Cruising Club to serve as their official training partner for the ARC Caribbean 1500, ARC Bahamas and ARC DelMarVa Rally. J World Annapolis is conveniently located on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay and is well known as the premier sailing school preparing serious sailors for round-the-world adventures, ocean crossings, coastal cruising and casual sailing.

JOIN US!

Call or visit our website today to learn more about our cruising certification and WCC preparation courses!

410.280.2040 | jworldannapolis.com Go beyond the basics and learn to safely and swiftly cruise by joining J World Annapolis as a participant in the 2014 ARC Bahamas. Berths are still available for this adventure learning experience!

www.worldcruising.com LATITUDES

Viewpoint Editor Jeremy Wyatt

Deputy Editor Sarah Collins

Contributors Andrew Bishop Lyall Burgess Horizon Yacht Charters Richard Kirby Andy Schell Paul Tetlow

Photography Credits Bermuda Aerial Media Johny Buraca Suzana Buraca Discovery Yachts Mia Karlsson Richard Knorr Kieran Higgs Imray Laurie Norie and Wilson Greg Marsden James Mitchell Laurie Owen Sara Proctor Al Schreitmueller (SpinSheet Magazine) Andy Schell Paul Tetlow Jeremy Wyatt Crew of Flomaida II Crew of Trillium Crew of Tulasi And to all other yacht crews who submitted photographs!

Cover Image Photo taken by Greg Marsden onboard Ryana

Design Aaron Rudd Creative www.aaronrudd.co.uk

Publisher World Cruising Club 120 High Street, Cowes PO31 7AX, UK Tel: Email:

+44 (0)1983 296060 mail@worldcruising.com

Websites: worldcruising.com

noonsite.com oceancrewlink.com

Whilst recently visiting the World ARC fleet at the mid-point of their rally in Darwin, and then Bali, I met a couple who completed their first circumnavigation as participants on World Cruising Club’s round the world rally Expo’98 and are now happily cruising independently crisscrossing the globe in their J/160 Pipedream on what is now their fifth circumnavigation!

World Cruising It is great to see people enjoying their boat so much, continuing their cruising having completed their first circumnavigation with a rally.

Club is about This summer we ran the first ARC DelMarVa rally under the World encouraging Cruising Club banner. This “ocean-teaser” route is aimed at those taking their first steps offshore; the week-long rally was preceded a sailors to extend month earlier by a weekend seminar to guide aspiring cruisers thru their cruising their final preparations for the route. For many this rally was their first night passage, and first venture out of the Chesapeake on boundaries” to the Atlantic. The participants all loved it, and are now passage

“

makers in the making. Hopefully their objective will be to reach Caribbean, and then perhaps a North Atlantic circuit to Europe, or indeed a circumnavigation.

Andrew Bishop, Managing Director

World Cruising Club is all about encouraging boat owners to make more use of their boats and to extend their cruising horizons once properly prepared. Our attitude to preparation and safety is one of thoroughness and completeness. There is no room for a lackadaisical approach when the safety of owners and crews are at stake. As rally organisers we have a responsibility to our participants, and our whole program of preparation and checks is designed around this. Once at sea the skippers are rightly the ones that make the decisions, but better they are well informed and prepared to make the right ones.

Steve Black had the same values on his rallies, which is why we had a synergy with the way Caribbean 1500 was delivered and run by Steve and his team; it was for this reason that Steve was happy to hand over the running of his USA based events to World Cruising Club, and continue to be involved after doing so.

He encouraged so many cruisers to get sailing - thru his rallies, and his ability to match crew to skippers. Having enjoyed more sailing after stepping back from running the rallies it was so sad that his passing happen so soon afterwards. He will be fondly remembered by all those whose lives he touched, particularly thru his rallies, and we are proud he entrusted us with his events, to carry them on and build on them in the spirit he envisaged.

With more American owners choosing to join World Cruising Club rallies we thank you, and look forward to continuing success as the organisation, under the capable direction of Mia Karlsson and Andy Schell, continues to grow in North America.

Andrew Bishop

Managing Director, World Cruising Club

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- Š Jeanneau - Westimages

Your passion deserves an exceptional yacht.

LAUNCHING SPRING 2014

www.jeanneau.com

www.claris.fr - Photos Nicolas Claris

Lagoon supports the Caribbean 1500 Rally Only a few offshore sailing events in the world offer the spirit that we like to refer to as the Lagoon attitude: A great ambiance and an unforgettable experience, with the benefits of a first class organization in terms of preparation and safety. Lagoon is proud to be a partner of the Caribbean 1500!

www.cata-lagoon.com

LATITUDES

Summer 2014

Club News

A round-up of news from World Cruising Club and supporters

Ocean Sailing Events at Annapolis Sailboat Show

World Cruising Club will again be represented at the nation’s largest in-water sailboat show this October, from on board rally yacht Sojourner and several events are happening inside and outside of the show itself.

The events will kick-off with a World ARC breakfast presentation at the Federal House Bar & Grill downtown, just outside the show gates. Andrew Bishop & Jeremy Wyatt will present on World Cruising Club’s premier event and answer questions from potential participants. Register for the breakfast via email to mail@worldcruising.com

On Friday evening, our partners at Chesapeake Sailmakers in Eastport are hosting the annual Crew Happy Hour. Registration is free and includes two drinks on arrival. Chesapeake Sailmakers is providing light appetizers. It will be a great way to meet and mingle with current, past and future rally participants in a nautical setting at the sail loft. Deals and discounts on new sails and sail repair will be available from our partners at Chesapeake.

Finally, on Saturday, October 11, Andy Schell will be moderating the Ocean Sailing Forum at O’Callaghan Hotel on West Street. Panelists include former Caribbean 1500 participants, an editor for SAIL magazine, and Paul & Sheryl Shard of the popular Distant Shores TV show, former ARC participants. The Forum will be recorded as a live 59 North podcast and released for download.

Tickets include entry to the boat show that day.

Register on worldcruising.com/training.

Chesapeake Sailmakers signs on as Corporate Member Eastport-based Chesapeake Sailmakers is another new addition to World Cruising Club USA’s family of partners. Chuck O’Malley, longtime sailmaker in the Annapolis area, and his team are experts in quality cruising sails, offering new sail design and construction and sail repair. Chuck personally designed and built all three sails on Mia & Andy’s yawl Arcturus prior to their Atlantic crossing in 2011, and has worked closely with Andy since 2006.

Chesapeake Sailmakers is offering discounted new sail design and sail repair services to rally participants in all USA-based events. They will also be providing the official rally numbers for the 25th ARC Caribbean 1500 coming up this fall. Learn more about Chesapeake Sailmakers on Chesapeake-sailmakers.com.

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J/World signs on as Official Training Partner in the USA We want to welcome J/World Annapolis, our newest corporate partner, to the World Cruising Club family.

As the ‘Official Training Partner’ in the USA, J/World Annapolis will be developing courses specific to ocean sailing as well as participating in both the ARC DelMarVa Rally and ARC Caribbean 1500 / ARC Bahamas.

The inaugural ARC DelMarVa rally kicked off at J/World’s clubhouse in Eastport, where the Skippers Briefing and farewell party were hosted. This fall, J/World will be leading the ARC Bahamas fleet south from Portsmouth on their J/120. Look out for the first Ocean Preparedness Seminar, run

by J/World Annapolis in September. The course is designed for those wishing to get hands-on experience with offshore safety equipment and emergency procedures, including radio usage, liferaft and PFD experience, flare demos and more.

Hear J/World Co-Director Kristen Berry on the 59 North Sailing Podcast on episode 47, released August 26. For more info and to sign up for J/World’s offerings, visit jworldannapolis.com.

www.worldcruising.com

CLUB NEWS

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MRP Refits support ‘green is good’ initiative MRP Refits continues to forge ahead with its “green is good” formula for extended offshore cruising. In conjunction with Watt&Sea, MRP Refits is actively promoting and installing hydrogenerators on sailing vessels prepping for long distance cruises. “Our experience shows us that the most viable combination for the trans-Atlantic or circumnavigating yacht is a good wind generator and a W&S Hydrogenerator. With this combination you will easily recover your costs in fuel savings.” Says Miles Poor. MRP are also installing Solara flexible solar panels on bimini tops, thus saving the expense and weight of metal framework supports. Solara’s high efficiency (22percent) panels are worth their “lack of weight” in energy production for boats sitting in windless locations.

Contact MRP Refits to start your “green is good” initiative. www.mrprefits.com

Cruising the Baltic, Learning Celestial & the 59 North Sailing Podcast Andy & Mia spent the summer cruising the Baltic on their classic yawl Arcturus. In August, they welcomed the ARC Baltic fleet at the Royal Swedish Yacht Club outside Stockholm. By chance, they were berthed in the marina when the rally fleet arrived, and enjoyed a beautiful evening cookout on the deck of the KSSS clubhouse before the rally sailed south towards Kalmar.

Andy spent a fair amount of time during their summer cruise developing his ’59 North Sailing Podcast,’ which has been steadily gaining popularity since its inception last September. The show is published twice weekly, with interview episodes released on Tuesday and shorter ‘essay’

episodes released on Fridays. Popular podcast episodes worth checking out if you are new to the show include two essay episodes on ocean sailing, ‘Lessons From Two Atlantic Crossings,’ and ‘Mentally Preparing to go Offshore,’ and an interview with Chris Museler, yachting journalist from the NY Times. Subscribe to the podcast for free on iTunes, or check out the archive on 59-north.com/sailingpodcast.

Andy is also hosting another Celestial Navigation workshop in Annapolis in conjunction with the National Sailing Hall of Fame on November 2223. For details and to register for the course, visit 59-north.com/events

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www.worldcruising.com

RALLY NEWS

Rally News ARC DelMarVa Inaugural ‘Rally Around DelMarVa’ a hit The inaugural ARC DelMarVa Rally saw 23 boats take the starting line in Annapolis for the 450-mile sail around the DelMarVa peninsula. The fleet was a mix of local sailors out for a summer adventure and those who came from further afield to test themselves on a first offshore passage.

While the weather was uncooperative, the added challenges of an upwind passage down the Bay and fluky winds offshore only created a greater sense of accomplishment for the majority of the fleet.

Two yachts used the rally as a ‘shakedown’ cruise for the ARC Caribbean 1500, which they’ll be participating in come November.

The rally, originally started in 2011 by local sailing magazine SpinSheet, now media partners for the event, will run annually and start in Annapolis, MD call at Portsmouth, VA, Cape May, NJ and finish again in Annapolis.

The three distinct legs offer exciting challenges for day sailors and ocean cruisers alike. Read the full rally report on page 16.

ARC USA The ‘milk run’ lives up to its name in 2014

Atlantic adventures with ARC Europe Carbon catamarans and family cruisers head for the Med 2014 saw one of the largest ever contingents of US flagged boats set sail with ARC Europe. For the second straight year, the USA-based yachts started in our homeport of Portsmouth, VA, with seven starters headed out from the Chesapeake. The main fleet, with a diverse range of nations represented, started from Nanny Cay, Tortola and headed to the fleet rendezvous in Bermuda before the 1800nm ‘jump’ to the Atlantic Archipelago of the Azores. Following a two week cruise through the islands, the fleet made land-fall at the welcoming Marina de Lagos, at the gateway of the Mediterranean. Read the full rally report on page 33. Entries are open for the 2015 edition, departing on May 9.

Visit worldcruising.com/arceurope

‘Coming home’ to the USA, eight boats joined ARC USA from Nanny Cay to Fort Lauderdale, Florida, via the Old Bahama Channel. The route, pioneered in 2013 by Miles and Anne Poor from MRP Refits, saw the fleet sail close to the north shores of Puerto Rico, Hispaniola and Cuba, sheltered from the Atlantic swells by the Turks & Caicos and Bahamas, before arriving in Bahia Mar Marina in the Sunshine State. Statistically, it is an easier route than aiming for Bermuda, with sheltered seas in the lee of the Bahamian islands and favorable current nearly the whole way to Florida. However in 2014, it may have been ‘too easy’ with light winds requiring the soundtrack of an engine playing for the majority of the passage. After an average 7 days, the fleet arrived to a welcome rum punch and rally dinner at nearby Oasis restaurant before dispersing to their homeports at their leisure. Read the full rally report on page 33.

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RALLY NEWS

ARC Caribbean 1500 Historic anniversary for America’s longest running offshore rally 2014 marks the 25th edition of ARC Caribbean 1500, departing from Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth, VA on 2nd November. Plenty of familiar faces are set to join us on the docks and the rally looks set to be a special reunion for many crews that have sailed the passage to Nanny Cay, Tortola throughout the history of the event. We will also be honoring rally founder Steve Black, who sadly passed away recently.

Ocean Marine Yacht Center will be providing their outdoor deck area as a ‘Rally HQ’ in 2014; a place where participants can meet and mingle throughout the busy days during the pre-departure program. The City of Portsmouth will host a Welcome Reception this year for the first time, solidifying our relationship with our new homeport. Davis Murray and the ‘Barefoot Davis Band,’ long time Carib 1500 guitar hero, will again be featured at Roger Brown’s to liven up the festivities prior to the start on the first Sunday in November.

Nanny Cay Marina are continuing their major renovations over the summer. An entire new facility is under construction on the south side of the main facility, with a new breakwater and floating docks to nearly double the capacity of this first-class marina; all due to be completed in the fall.

World ARC 2015: Santa Marta added to Panama Canal Route

Bound for the Bahamas Sailing in conjunction with the Carib1500, ARC Bahamas will depart Portsmouth, VA on the same day, cross the Gulf Stream and then head south for the shorter jaunt to the Bahamas.

The Colombian port of Santa Marta, on the Caribbean coast will host the World ARC fleet for the first time in January 2015. Lying just north of Cartagena, Santa Marta is the oldest colonial city in South America and quite enchanting. Opened just three years ago, the new fully serviced Santa Marta Marina is ideally placed to break the journey from Saint Lucia to the San Blas Islands of Panama, giving World ARC sailors the opportunity to explore this beautiful part of Colombia. Tourism is growing fast in Colombia, and with the stunning Tayrona National Park, right next door, there is much to offer the visitor.

Bluff House Marina on Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos will again welcome the ARC Bahamas fleet. The facilities at Bluff House are excellent, and the team offer us a very warm Bahamian welcome. Green Turtle Cay is a day sail from busier resorts, so provides a tranquil rest after the Atlantic passage. While the island is very small, most social, shopping and boat services are available locally, and Marsh Harbour is only a sail away if you need more. Some boats use Green Turtle Cay as a winter base before returning for spring sailing in the Bahamas, others cruise further afield, and others go to work with one of the many charter fleets in the Abacos.

J/World Annapolis, World Cruising USA’s Official Training Partner, is leading the ARC Bahamas fleet in 2014 with the entry of their J/120. The ‘Performance Sailing School’ will be offering berths for sale to their students, who are keen to broaden their horizons with a proper ocean passage.

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014

450 Miles around the DelMarVa peninsula Unpredictable weather lends a heightened sense of accomplishment to inaugural ARC DelMarVa Rally participants

by Andy Schell

ARC DelMarVa Start off Annapolis, light wind as the fleet heads south - it wouldn’t last though.

ARC

Defining the DelMarVa – a brief history

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DelMarVa 2014 V

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In 2011, SpinSheet, a local Chesapeake Bay sailing magazine, created the first DelMarVa Rally, a cruise-in-company around the DelMarVa Peninsula. The rally was sailed in several legs over the course of a week, starting and finishing at Annapolis, and including an offshore leg between the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays that for many was their first ocean sailing experience. Crews enjoyed meeting new friends, sharing experiences and completing a challenge.

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Around De

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“

For a while there it was one of the best days sailing we’ve ever had.

We were tacking back and forth across the Bay, making runs in excess of 8 knots.

It was gorgeous!”

John, Diffugere Nives

www.worldcruising.com

ARC DELMARVA But the calm conditions did not persist. The south breeze filled in quite nicely at first, but then never stopped. By late afternoon it was blowing over 20 knots. Aboard Sojourner, we weren’t expecting the conditions and had in fact de-rigged our solent stay and stowed the small jib, rigging instead the big genoa in anticipation of light winds. So up to the foredeck we went, re-rigging the stay and hanking on the small jib, the sail which my dad had gotten so much use out of on the Caribbean 1500 last fall when the fleet set out offshore into strong northerlies.

All night the south wind never relented, and by morning - when we should have been approaching Hampton Roads - we were only near Solomon’s Island, barely halfway down the Bay. “I never had to cook a meal in those conditions before!” said Jon Cohen from the Pacific Seacraft 34 Ruach.

Family of Island Gal. Good job on the boat dog for wearing a PFD!

This year, World Cruising Club USA took over management of the rally after Mia and I volunteered to be on the rally committee in 2013.

“We run magazines, not rallies,” said Mary Ewenson following the conclusion of last year’s rally, founder of SpinSheet and it’s sister publication PropTalk.

The rally was renamed the ARC DelMarVa, and will be run annually by Mia and I under the auspices of World Cruising Club USA. As with all World Cruising Club rallies it is about much more than just the sailing. A comprehensive half-day seminar on safety equipment, navigating the route, seamanship and watch rotations was held at our partners Chesapeake Sailmakers in May, giving crews enough time to take what they had learned and apply it to their own boats and crew before the mid-June start. It was the first time that our newly announced ‘Official Training Partners’ J/World Annapolis got in on the fun, with Kristen Berry stopping by to speak about weather expected during the passage.

Young visitors on Adagio in Portsmouth at the first stopover.

The evening before the sailing start, a detailed Skippers Briefing was held back at J/World’s base, giving the crews one last chance to meet, mingle and discuss their strategy for sailing down the Bay on Leg 1. The sailing itself is comprised of three distinct legs, the highlight being the 160nm offshore passage between Portsmouth, VA and Cape May, NJ.

Upwind down the Chesapeake The first ARC DelMarVa Rally got underway in Annapolis on Sunday June 8, with 21 yachts taking the starting line off Back Creek on a calm, sunny Sunday morning. But it didn’t remain that way.

Boisterous upwind conditions for much of the first leg down the Chesapeake put crews and boats to the test, making arrival in Portsmouth, VA that much the sweeter.

The start itself was calm, with just enough breeze to see Kayode, a Tanton 44, take the lead across the line, closely edging out the much racier J/105 Diffugere Nives. The rest of the fleet followed, tacking out of the Severn River before rounding Tolly Point and entering the Chesapeake Bay proper. Mia and I followed suit on my Dad, Dennis Schell’s Wauqeuiz 38 Sojourner with he and his partner Marcia. The DelMarVa was unique for us in that it was the one rally in 2014 that we actually got to sail on!

“For a while there it was one of the best days sailing we’ve ever had,” said John on Diffugere Nives, the J/105. “We were tacking back and forth across the Bay, making runs in excess of 8 knots. It was gorgeous!”

The fleet began arriving into Ocean Marine Yacht Center, our hosts in Portsmouth, VA, late in the evening on Monday, with the majority arriving overnight, and everyone in port in time for Tuesday evening’s celebratory dinner at Roger Brown’s on the historic High Street. In 2013, Portsmouth and Ocean Marine hosted the Caribbean 1500 for the first time, and it has since become the new home for World Cruising Club USA rallies coming and going from that part of the Bay.

“

The town was beautiful from the houses and gardens we saw on our walk very clean and well kept,” Marcia Letsche, Sojourner.

Richard Shoenfeld on Zephyr agreed. “We had a nice walk through town and a light lunch in one of the bars,” he commented before the fleet departed for what was for many their first ocean voyage.

Abe and Jeff on the Kaiser Gale Force 34 Andante at the rally start.

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014

“

It won’t be just a lazy sail down the bay. You have to work but you will learn.

The rally is great for prep for doing a longer trip.”

Craig Perry

Prizegiving offers fun, nostalgia for all Mystic Shadow, Evening Light and Tres Hijas lined up at the start off Annapolis.

First time for many offshore

Homeward Bound

Leg 2 brought much more favorable winds, but with it grey skies. Mist and fog shrouded the Bay bridge-tunnel as the fleet headed offshore on Wednesday morning, with winds from the east making for tight reaching conditions up the coast.

The weather finally turned for good once the fleet departed Cape May and got through the C&D Canal. The cold front that had been stalled just west of the Chesapeake Bay for days, bringing wet, foggy, misty weather to the fleet, finally pushed offshore with a flurry of rain showers and thunderstorms, clearing the air for a gorgeous early morning. The full moon – the rally was planned around it after all – finally showed its face as the fleet re-entered the Chesapeake Bay, and the day dawned clear and cool, a fresh northwesterly breeze propelling everyone south on the rally’s final leg.

Indeed the offshore leg was a challenge even for experienced participants, but the weather - slowly - changed in the fleet’s favor and provided some great sailing going up the coast. By Thursday morning the winds had clocked to the southeast, and the rally yachts eased the sheets for the final jaunt into Cape May, NJ. Though Leg 2 was the longest of the three legs, at 160 miles, it was far easier than Leg 1 given the improved winds, and made folks understand just how achievable ocean sailing can really be.

“Leg 2 provided a good shakedown cruise if you intend to sail on longer trips,” said Arden D’Amico from Dana Marie.

“We set a speed record today of 9.3 knots!” said one of the crew from Zephyr. Many others mentioned the same, as it was fast reaching conditions on flat water Saturday morning.

“This was the most significant benefit of the rally for us,” said the crew of Wine Dog of the overnight offshore leg. “I have done this before, just not in the waves and wind with some fog.”

The Canyon Club Marina hosted the fleet in Cape May. Normally a sportfishing haven, ARC DelMarVa yachts stood out on A-dock, where they were all berthed together, the rally flags making for a colorful display amongst the fancy powerboats. It was a short stop with a Skippers’ Briefing and pot-luck on the pool deck overlooking the marina on Thursday before the fleet set sail again on Leg 3 back up the Delaware Bay and towards home again the next morning.

Andy with the crew of Adagio, who took home the Weems & Plath ‘Navigator’s Award’ for best kept log book.

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With an early arrival for many back in Annapolis, it provided ample time for folks to take their boats to their home ports or marinas and wash up for the rally’s final prizegiving party at the Eastport Democratic Club.

Crews began arriving at just before 6pm. The buffet table was set, and the bar was open. A slideshow of photos from the past week played on the big screen inside, and the din of excited chatter among the sailors grew louder and louder as the place filled up.

After we offered a rowdy toast to completing the voyage, crews spent the next few hours eating, drinking and being merry with their newfound friends of the past week.

“It was fun to meet and spend time with other sailors,” offered one crewmember. “The experience was awesome and the stories well enjoyed.”

Said another crew from Dana Marie, “We were quick to make new friends.”

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ARC DELMARVA

The noisy chatter all during the prizegiving was evidence of that indeed, and it took some persuasive whistling to get the bunch to settle down before the prizes could be announced!

Going forward, ARC DelMarVa will be an annual event. Dates are set for 2015, with the included half-day seminar set for Saturday, April 25. This seminar is also open to potential ralliers interested in getting a preview of what they’re in for going offshore. A small fee is charged to those folks, which is then refunded if they sign up for that year’s rally.

Though the ARC DelMarVa was a non-competitive rally, there were still several awards up for grabs.

The ‘I’ll Never Do That Again! Award’ came about after stories were circulated about people doing dumb things on or to their boats during the course of the week. Molly Kate was recognized for their antenna prowess, or lack thereof. They’d had the VHF antenna installed upside down on the mast and were wondering why they weren’t able to raise anyone on the radio! Tom from Jubilee managed to chuck his handheld VHF into the water in Portsmouth looking for a dockline; Dennis on Sojourner managed to motorsail at 2400 RPM for over an hour before realizing that the engine wasn’t in gear; and Dana Marie were so excited sailing down the Bay on Leg 1 that they let their batteries run dead and couldn’t start the engine!

But Adagio took the award in the end for their destroying all of their forward halyards when the genoa furler got stuck. The award was all in good fun, and it was a learning experience for everyone being out there, exactly the key point of the rally in the first place; learning through doing and having some fun along the way.

The ‘Sailor’s Award’ went to Ken and his crew on Kayode for their remarkable start – they seized the starting line over the much nimbler J/105 Diffugere Nives and were recognized for their feat.

Finally, to wrap things up, the Weems & Plath ‘Navigator’s Award’ – a smart bronze navigator’s set in a wooden box, engraved with the ARC DelMarVa logo – was awarded to Adagio for their excellently kept navigator’s log.

Andy and Capt Ken from Kayode, receiving the ‘Sailor’s Award’ for first across the start line.

Lessons learned, boundaries broken “Its a shakedown cruise,” said Mark Shaefer of Dana Marie when asked about completing his first DelMarVa loop. “We are preparing for longer cruises, and the challenges of the sailing on the rally helped us learn a lot and become better sailors.”

The rally itself will start later in June next year (20-27) in the hopes of offering more consistent weather, and for family boats to have a chance to bring their kids along, who will mostly be out of school by then and on summer break.

For more information and to register for next year’s ARC DelMarVa, visit worldcruising.com/ arcdelmarva

Indeed we as organizers were worried that the one thing we can’t control – the weather – would put people off of sailing overnight or out on the ocean, the challenge too challenging and the effort not worth it. But we were wrong. In fact, the opposite occurred in many instances, with crews welcoming the added challenge of the unpredictable weather and feeling a greater sense of accomplishment on the rally’s completion.

“The ARC DelMarVa is a ‘must-do’ for potential bluewater sailors,” said Rich Kinard of Sea Bee. “It won’t be just a lazy sail down the bay,” added Craig Perry. “You have to work but you will learn.

The rally is great for prep for doing a longer trip.”

Abe from Andante agreed. “It was a fun, intense sail and a great test of your boat!”

Capt Dennis getting Sojourner ‘fully dressed’ with code flags at Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth to welcome the rest of the fleet.

“ Most crews from the ARC DelMarVa fleet in Cape May at the second stopover, poolside at the Canyon Club Marina.

We are preparing for longer cruises, and the challenges of the sailing on the rally helped us learn a lot and become better sailors.”

Mark Shaefer, Dana Marie

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ARC CARIBBEAN 1500

“

One of the last great adventures.”

Steve Black, Rally Founder

30 knots at times and boisterous sailing during the first half of the voyage, many crews enjoyed the experience and in fact grew from it.

“There were some dicey periods in the Gulf Stream, but my mind has resolved those anxieties and formed some awesome memories,” wrote crewmember Guy Smith on Sojourner. “Crossing the Stream at night was by far the most thrilling thing I’ve ever done in my life! Thinking back on it, I realized how well our crew handled the challenges and adversities. I feel a great sense of satisfaction and accomplishment in our teamwork and camaraderie.”

ARC Caribbean 1500 Ready for it’s quarter century Why do the Rally?

“Crossing the Stream at night was by far the most thrilling thing I’ve ever done in my life!”

The ‘Carib 1500’ as World Cruising Club USA’s premier rally is affectionately known, will reach a major milestone in 2014, with the 25th running of the rally set to depart Portsmouth, VA on November 2. The rally, sailing south to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) through a stretch of the North Atlantic ocean, is “one of the last great adventures” for sailors looking to broaden their horizons, according to late rally founder Steve Black.

Year after year hundreds of boats and thousands of sailors have taken part in the iconic rally. The rally’s popularity continues to grow, with the ARC Bahamas route returning again for 2014.

But what makes the 1500 so special? We trawled the at-sea logs and walked the docks in Nanny Cay last fall to see what the sailors had to say.

“I always look forward to doing the rally it adds a lot of enjoyment to the voyage. The fellowship and friends made before, during and after the sail are long lasting,” offered ‘Capt. Sonny’ Diel, a member of the ‘Order of the Salty Dogs,’ rally crew who have sailed at least 7 Caribbean 1500’s.

“I learn something new on each passage,” adds crewmember Phil Barbalace. “That enhances my ability to successfully complete other passages and contribute to the safety and satisfaction of the crew and owners that I sail with.”

While the 2013 Carib 1500 fleet certainly enjoyed their share of challenges, with winds approaching

And as for the value of a rally for those experienced crews who might not need all the support? Robin Ricca from Altair had this to say: “Even though I have now completed more than 11 offshore passages and God only knows how many nautical miles up and down the coasts of the USA, Canada and the Caribbean, I want you to know I still appreciate the fact that we travel in groups for safety, get the redundant safety at sea education we all need, get very detailed and complete vessel inspections, great weather details for a safe departure and all the wonderful parties and social rallys both before and after the ocean adventure. The Carib 1500 is still the best buy in town for both the new offshore sailor and the experienced veteran alike.”

Michel Gagnon, skipper of the Canadia-flagged Altria a Beneteau 49, perhaps best summed up the atmosphere around the Caribbean 1500 with his reflections after the rally’s completion.

“The Caribbean 1500 is a truly world class organization from the very beginning, putting safety first on their priority list. The seminars gave excellent advice from seasoned sailors. Friendly happy hours facilitated everyone to get to know each other joining the fleet. Those that completed the rally made it safely to Tortola despite a bumpy start in the Gulf Stream which added some challenges to the rally. All crews had put in the necessary hours for preparing their yachts which paid off during the 1500 nautical journey .

I highly recommend to any skipper and welltrained crew to take part in this rally.”

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014 start of the rally, spending time to help crews to talk through decisions about safety and communications at sea and ensuring that boat is well prepared for the ocean crossing.

Peter Burch, longtime safety inspector with the 1500 has inspected hundreds of rally boats over the years, explained, “The safety check is all about helping skippers and crews to prepare for an emergency, and getting second set of eyes on the boats. Last year we found a liferaft painter not attached to the boat, and this was on a boat that’s done the rally a dozen times! Most skippers find the whole inspection process very useful.”

Staying Safe at Sea - the Rally Safety Check

Unlike other rally promoters, World Cruising Club take the safety of our participants very seriously, and require Carib 1500 boats to carry specific safety and communications equipment. It is also important that crew on board to have undertaken training in using the equipment, sailing in heavy weather and managing emergencies. The safety equipment inspection is one of the few mandatory aspects of the 1500 - all yachts must pass before they are allowed to start the rally.

All skippers have information about the mandatory and recommended safety equipment before they join the rally, and World Cruising Club provide lots of advice and information in the comprehensive Rally Handbook, which is distributed months before the start. Lots of crews contact World Cruising Club by phone or email to discuss any questions, or visit the team at boat shows or training seminars too, which are held throughout the year.

As part of the preparations in Portsmouth, our team of experienced safety equipment inspectors visit each boat and check equipment before the

Taking around an hour, the safety check begins on deck, with inspection of lifelines and jackstays, guard rails and navigation lights. In addition to the dozens of different boats they inspect each year, learning from common mistakes, our safety team have sailed many thousands of ocean miles between them and happily explain to crews what they are looking for, common problems, and plenty of top-tips to consider whilst they prepare for the 1500. Liferafts and man overboard equipment are also checked, and the emergency steering is tested.

Next the inspector will move to the cockpit for a check on the equipment stowed there including the dates on all the flares and making sure that the correct quantity are on board. This is usually followed by asking to see the EPIRB, the Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon. All 1500 boats must have an EPIRB, but we find that often skippers do not know how to test them, a task that should be done at least once a month.

27 Oct 30 Oct

22

www.worldcruising.com Below decks we will check stowage of heavy equipment to ensure it is properly secured, galley safety and review the medical kit, before checking lifejackets. In the US, it’s just now becoming common to see ISO-rated PFDs, including crotch straps and spray hoods. One of the major challeneges is explaining to rally crews who’ve sailed under the old regulations just why these additions are necessary.

ARC CARIBBEAN 1500 long before they arrive in Portsmouth, the whole purpose of the way the 1500 is set up.

Links to the complete Carib 1500 safety equipment list are in the rally information pack or via the members area of worldcruising.com.

“Just inflate your PFD and jump in the pool, you’ll see!” says Paul Geppert, rally veteran of the Tayana 42 Moonshadow.

“Without the crotch straps, the thing rides up so high you can’t see, and it’s real tiring trying to keep it down.”

Kirk Passmore and crew with the day’s catch on Te Mana.

The start was timed around the passage of a weak cold front, allowing the fleet to start in light airs while a high pressure ridge moved in, bringing stronger winds from the NW, forecast to shift N and NE over the following 48 hours.

Each PFD must all be in good condition and have on them: the name of the boat, a whistle, a light, retro-reflective tape, crotch straps, a sprayhood and also a harness line.

Ryan Cheff of Ryana, hoisting the ‘Q’ flag as they make landfall in Tortola.

The safety equipment requirements are quite detailed and often yachts fail on some aspects during the first check. Many typically have insufficient flares, or are missing spray hoods or crotch straps from lifejackets. Lots of these items can be bought from Ocean Marine Yacht Center or sourced locally in Portsmouth, so it is a simple process for the safety team to come back to recheck that the extra kit is on board and installed.

It is rare that more fundamental problems are encountered, as most skippers are well-prepared

31 Oct

Tight Weather Windows - Always be Prepared For the second time in as many years, the Caribbean 1500 fleet set sail for Tortola a day ahead of schedule. With a long-range forecast that looked far from ideal, the decision was made to take advantage of a small, but good weather window to get the fleet safely across the Gulf Stream.

“It was unprecedented last year,” commented rally participant Miles Poor, “and to do it again, only the second time in 24 years of the rally, is remarkable.”

The goal in finding a suitable weather window is always to get the fleet across the Gulf Stream and well offshore while the weather is favorable. In the fall season, and on a passage of usually longer than a week, finding a weather window longer than 2-3 days is next to impossible.

The 1500 fleet experienced three days of winds in the high 20’s, gusting above 30 at times, but the wind was aft of the beam, and importantly, everyone knew it was coming.

2 Nov

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ARC CARIBBEAN 1500

For the second year the decision to depart early highlights the challenges of a fall passage from the US East Coast. The weather windows are few, and when they are right, you’ve got to be flexible enough to take advantage of them.

“We’re are all sailors,” said Caribbean 1500 rally manager Andy Schell at an impromptu weather briefing on Friday afternoon, when it appeared that a Saturday start was looming. “We’re at the mercy of the weather. We’re not going to make a decision based around convenience. It’s got to be based on seamanship.”

By Saturday morning’s weather briefing with WRI, it was obvious that Saturday was the day, and the fleet rallied around the decision that became official at the 0900 Skippers Briefing. The Briefing itself had been moved up from noon in anticipation of the possible change in plans, and skipper’s and crew took it all in stride and seemed very supportive of the process.

Caribbean cruising is just the beginning for many rally yachts

Looking out on the beach at Nanny Cay Marina.

A nice place to arrive after a long week at sea!

This is an economical way of keeping the boat, as the marina places a premium on in-water space during the high season, while their boatyard remains relatively empty.

Once in the water, it is the perfect base for exploring the Virgin Islands and the Eastern Caribbean. From Nanny Cay, it is only a 90-mile hop to St. Martin, St. Barths and the Leeward Islands.

The festivities in Nanny Cay that wrapped up the 2013 Caribbean 1500 – including the island tours, rum tastings, cocktail hours and final evenings prizegiving ceremony – were just the beginning of the fun for most rally yachts.

In Saint Lucia for the ARC and ARC+ finish, Carib 1500 participants Mark & Eileen from the classic Cherubinin ketch Wavelength popped up just in time to volunteer their boat for finish line duties.

The couple had been cruising south ever since they finished the rally in 2012, and were delighted to meet up with other participants - like Nexus, the big catamaran staging in Saint Lucia for the start of World ARC - and lend a hand with the ARC.

Nanny Cay is a popular place where owners will dry-sail their yachts, having them hauled out in between trips to and from the US.

David and Isabelle, with their two daughters Rebecca and Demi on Morning Haze, a Canadianflagged Hunter 410, are currently exploring the

Mediterranean. They sailed south to the Bahamas with the 1500 fleet last year, then made their way down island to join ARC Europe in Nanny Cay in May. After an Atlantic crossing with the rally to Portugal via Bermuda and the Azores, Morning Haze will rejoin the World Cruising Club family in the Canaries this fall for the return Atlantic crossing with the ARC+, stopping off in the Cape Verdes before completing their Atlantic circle and adventure of a lifetime.

Trillium and Nexus, veterans of the 1500 last year have now reached the half-way point of their circumnavigation with World ARC. Since departing Saint Lucia in January with the rally, they have transitted the Panama Canal and crossed the Pacific Ocean calling at the Galapagos Island, the Tuamoto’s and Tahiti, Niue, Cook Island and Tonga en route.

“We visited the Hindu temple in Nandi, Fiji,” wrote Trillium skipper Sherry Day. “Our tour guide explained the symbols and various traditions of worship. I had to don a sula [a traditional Fijian sarong] to cover my legs and we had to remove our shoes. The temple offerings are shared with the homeless of the area. They also have a large garden where they grow crops to help feed the homeless.”

The crew aboard Nexus were excited about their voyage towards Australia, but are already missing the places they’ve come to love.

“Tomorrow we leave Vanuatu and sail for Mackay, Australia,” they wrote. “We should arrive in 7-9 days. Vanuatu has been a magical place! Looking forward to the next leg of our journey.”

For Morning Haze, Nexus, Trillium and the rest of the fleet who’se gone further afield, the Carib 1500 was a gateway drug, the first step on a much longer journey of exploration in the world’s oceans that will provide memories for years to come.

10 Nov

13 Nov 11 Nov

14 Nov

25

LATITUDES

Summer 2014

Lots of entries were received to the 2013 ARC Caribbean 1500 Photo Competition and images included stunning sunsets, spinnaker sailing and on board action shots.

Friends and followers of the ARC Caribbean 1500 Facebook page were invited to vote for their favourite - with over 100 people ‘liking’ entries in the dedicated album.

Congratulations to the winners: Laurie Owen on Nexus, Richard Knorr on Starburst and Greg Marsden on Ryana! Each winner received a shore jacket from GILL!

Laurie Owen, Nexus

ARC Caribbean 1500 Photo Competition

Richard Knorr, Starburst

Greg Marsden, Ryana!

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26

www.worldcruising.com LATITUDES

It is with a heavy heart that I write of the passing of Steve Black, an icon in the world of cruising sailors.

Steve’s passing came as a surprise to no one, as he fought his last battles with lung cancer in his home in Oriental, North Carolina, a battle that began unexpectedly last summer, just as Black was set to retire for good. His brother Mike was by his side until the very end.

A Midwesterner by birth, Steve did not get into sailing until his 30s, when he migrated to the east coast and took to the high seas for the first time. His star rose quickly, however, and he became director of US Sailing for several years while he ran an educational publishing company and managed the Sailing World NOOD (National Offshore One Design) Regattas throughout the country. He was also a dedicated racing sailor, competing in many trans-ocean events, including numerous single-handed races. But Steve will be best remembered throughout the sailing world as the founder of the Caribbean 1500 cruising rally.

“I saw the tremendous value in helping to get cruisers to their cruising grounds for the winter,” Steve said in an interview in 2009 at the start of his iconic rally. “We started [the 1500] so Americans and Canadians could get to the Caribbean, make new friends and do it a little more safely.”

Steve Black first approached me in 2006. I was eager to expand my own sailing horizons and was looking for a berth on an ocean-going boat. Black, ever the match-maker, connected my dad and I with the owner of Dress Parade, a Jeanneau 40 that was set to depart Charleston, SC. “What struck me that year was how attentive Steve was to the fleet,” my dad told me recently.

Steve Black

“We were the last boat to arrive, by an entire day, and still, there he was catching our docklines and greeting us with a bottle of cold champagne.”

Andy Schell reflects on the life of Steve Black who passed away on March 17, 2014

Since then my dad and I have sailed on half a dozen other rallies, all on Steve’s recommendations. Our story is by no means unique. Steve had an uncanny talent for connecting people, and kept a binder full of information on eager crewmembers looking to get offshore. He would pair the less-experienced owners with the most experienced crews, and vice versa, to ensure compatibility offshore and try and enhance the safety of his event.

“

If somebody only gets to do this once or twice in their lifetime, we really hope their memories are happy ones.”

Indeed several passionate groups formed out of this process, including the “Order of the Salty Dogs” and the “Prairie Pirates”, whom Steve held in particularly high regard given his Midwestern roots. Steve led from the front, sailing in all of the rallies he ran. His last rally passage was aboard Lone Star in the 2013 ARC USA. Fittingly, they won their class, with Steve receiving a standing ovation from his longtime friends and supporters at the prizegiving in Bermuda.

Steve Black was aware of his legacy and very particular about passing on the 1500 torch.

It took years of discussions between him and the World Cruising Club before a deal was struck to continue the rally under a new flag.

Steve at the helm of his beloved Pacer 42, Madrugada at the start of a Caribbean 1500. He always sailed in the event he founded.

Only in hindsight did I realize that Steve was not joking when he told me in 2009 that I could become ‘the next rally guy.’ I’m humbled that he supported me from the start. Steve was devastated at hearing of a competing rally organization springing up just as the transition took place – he took the news very personally – and he worked hard, despite his retirement, to support the ongoing 1500.

But what stands out the most about Steve Black was his desire to inspire and help other people to fulfill their dreams.

“This is one of the last great adventures of our modern times,” Steve used to say at the Skippers’ Briefings during the 1500, just before the fleet cast off and headed offshore. It was enough to give you chills.

“If somebody only gets to do this once or twice in their lifetime, we really hope their memories are happy ones.”

Indeed our memories of Steve Black will be.

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014

Cruising Diary Baltic Adventures Continued World Cruising Club’s US team of Andy Schell and Mia Karlsson have spent the summer of 2013 exploring the Baltic Åland islands aboard their 1966 Allied Seabreeze yawl Arcturus.

The Red Rocks of Åland

A week after first arriving into Mariehamn, the capital of Åland, we had nearly completed a circumnavigation of the large part of the island, and had arrived in Länsmansgrund.

Andy takes his ‘morgon dopp’ (‘morning dip’) in Rödhamn in the Åland archipelago.

We had gotten there after a five-hour sail in strong, rainy conditions, a rare wet and stormy day in Åland’s outer archipelago during what was otherwise a lovely six weeks of beautiful weather in the Baltic.

Mia and I debated for much of that morning whether we would go anywhere at all. There is a saying in Swedish, “ingen doligt vader, bara doligt klader” - basically, no bad weather, only bad clothing. So in the end, weather be damned, we sailed!

The wind blew close to 30 knots from the south as we hauled the anchor in. Despite the rain, it turned into a nice little sail. Zig-zagging between the islands and rocks provided a flat sea, and the sun tried coming out a couple of times. By the time we approached the outer archipelago to the north, there was a distinct change in the weather on the way. Ahead of us, to the north and west, a sharp line distinguished the lousy weather from the good.

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“

Since the bay was ours alone, we went for a naked swim, which sort of became routine during our time exploring the Baltic.”

Andy at the helm of a classic ‘snipa’, or motor launch, built of wood in the 30’s.

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CRUISING DIARY

The Pommern, one of the last squareriggers to sail the grain route round the Horn. Now a museum in Mariehamn.

Arcturus moored to the rocks in the outer island of Länsmansgrund.

Anchoring in the Archipelago

That line finally passed us after we sailed into the tiny cove of Länsmansgrund, careful to avoid the submerged rock on the western bank. The lighting from the low evening sun juxtaposed against the departing dark clouds lent a cinematic feel to our arrival.

This little cove was situated SE to NW, and you could moor to the rocks (see sidebar right). The scenery was typical of the outer archipelago in Åland, the ubiquitous red rocks making up most of the landscape, while the forest on the bigger islands gave way here to lower, scrubbier vegetation and lime-green moss. High cliffs surrounded the little harbor, ripe for hiking.

A small stuga was erected on the shoreline just meters to the west. The wooden hut had a set of bunk beds and an iron wood stove, plus a small writing desk with a four-paned window that looked out onto the bay. Out back a pile of split wood was available to any who chose to inhabit the place for an evening or a weekend.

Länsmansgrund is a nature reserve, and the stuga is maintained by the government for public use.

Outside stood ‘Finland’s coziest picnic table,’ according to the guidebook.

We had set another record on Arcturus - our mooring put us at 60º 28’ N, farthest north, and only 5 ½ degrees of latitude south of the Arctic Circle.

Åland’s Last Cape Horners I learned about Ålands Last Cape Horners during the last stop of our summer cruise at a small stuga on Ålands big island owned by a friend of ours, Tryggve.

The property was on a small peninsula overlooking a little cove inside a larger bay. The waterside was interspersed with the typical red granite cliffs of Åland, and reedy, swampy areas where the water was shallower. There was a tiny dock built into the red granite in front of the cottage, where Tryggve, the owner, kept his old wooden runabout moored.

We had to re-learn how to anchor Arcturus in the Baltic. By laying a stern anchor 50 or 100 feet offshore, and nosing the bow in towards a cliff or large rock the bowman simply steps off the boat and ties off to a tree or metal ring. You avoid the need to carry a dinghy and instantly expand your livable space onboard having access to your own private piece of shoreline. The Swedish and Finnish archipelagos are one of the few places in the world where the conditions are such that this is even possible – protected hidey-holes, no tides and steep shorelines.

Boats of all types and sizes do this – sail and power alike – and it feels almost foolish to swing on a bow anchor when there is a bay full of boats moored to the cliffs. Before we mastered the practice ourselves, we enjoyed watching and learning while other people approached the cliffs and tied up as if it were the easiest thing in the world. Lätt som en plätt, the Swedes would say. Easy as a small pancake.

Arcturus, a rare sailboat in the inner ‘vik’ (‘bay’) at Bergö outside our friends summer cottage.

Since the bay was ours alone, we went for a naked swim, which sort of became routine during our time exploring the Baltic. There is nothing like a little morning chill to wake up the system, and a hot cup of coffee afterwards never tasted so good!

Länsmansgrund is just about as far north as one can sail in the Åland archipelago. If you climbed up the cliffs facing north, you would see splendid views over the Gulf of Bothnia that stretches over the horizon and on towards Lappland, between northern Sweden and Finland.

29

LATITUDES

Summer 2014 You had to keep the cover off the engine box to drive the thing, and you steered with a tiller. She was a real boat, and Claes was proud to have shared her with us.

The small ‘stuga’ at Rödhamn where we had fresh bread delivered to the boat each morning.

Claes was also merchant seaman in his day, and told us of his trips round the world carrying cargo, ‘more than I can count,’ he said with a smile and a distinct twinkle in his eye.

‘I’d thought about writing my memoirs one day,’ he told us in Swedish, ‘but I’d only publish them if I could guarantee that my kids wouldn’t read them!’

We talked about how interesting it must have been to come from such a small island in the middle of the Baltic and to go out and see the world, to bring back all those stories.

Just up from the waterfront was the “bastu”, the sauna which had an attached shower and a set of bunk beds for guests. The stuga was small, with room for only a small dining table for two, a sitting room with a couple of bookshelves and a wood stove as the centerpiece. A tiny fridge and simple two-burner stove next to the single sink made up the kitchen. An outhouse was out back.

Arcturus was anchored just off the dock. It felt inland. The water was only five feet deep, and the reedy, forested shorelines were a decided change from the barren outcroppings of the archipelago.

Our boat drew attention from the neighbors and it was quickly apparent that a large sailboat, particularly one flying an American flag, was indeed a rare sight here. Shortly two of the neighbors wandered down to inquire about the sailboat in the cove. As a good host, Tryggve offered them cold beers and they sat down for a chat.

We learned that one of the neighbors was a seaman on a ship in Gustav Erikson’s fleet back in the twilight days of merchant sailing ships, and had been across the Atlantic himself several times as a merchant mariner. Gustav Erikson is a household name around Åland, for he owned 17 of the last square riggers to sail the grain route from Australia to England. Many Ålander’s were captains and crew in Erikson’s fleet, a notable percentage of the 28,000-person population in fact.

Later that evening another neighbor turned up, this time in an old wooden motor launch. As we watched him approach the dock from the deck, Tryggve began bragging on our new guests behalf as boat came closer us, keen to make sure I noted how smoothly the water parted,’like a swan’ he said.

Claes, at the helm, shouted for Tryggve to come down to the dock. He grabbed a cold beer first, and I followed him down. As they chatted, I asked if I could climb onboard and poke around.

‘Absolutely!’ Claes replied.

‘Start her up!’ he said. The engine was ancient, a small green two-cylinder gasoline motor built in the 1940s. The boat itself was older, built of fir on the neighboring island of Föglö in 1938, with tarred frames inside and a varnished hull outside.

Claes convinced me to turn the key and bring the thing to life, which I did with delight. By now Mia had come down to see what all the commotion was and the two of us took the little Adele out for a ride in the bay. I’d never driven a proper wooden boat before, so it was a thrill.

Mia posing in front of a range marker near Rödhamn - they’re big!

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Adele was an open launch, about 25’ long perhaps, a beautiful canoe stern and graceful sheer. The controls were directly on the engine itself, a lever (cleverly homemade by Claes from an old piston) attached to the gearbox for forward and reverse, the throttle adjacent.

This tradition continues today. Åland has a topnotch maritime academy in Mariehamn that caters to islanders, Finns and Swedes alike. Nowadays the seaman work on container ships, tankers and Norwegian ships searching for oil in the North Sea.

One of the typical ferries that ply the Åland waters to and from Sweden and Finland.

This tradition is the reason that Åland controlled the very last of the merchant sailing ship trade.

It’s the reason the main flag outside the maritime museum is not that of the country, but of the International Cape Horners Association, of which Åland has an active branch. In fact, just after we left, the International Congress, with the few remaining Cape Horners in the world, went to Mariehamn to have dinner aboard the Pommern, the only Cape Horn tall ship in the world to be preserved in its original state. It sailed the route up until the late 1930s.

And it is the reason we got to meet Ålands last living Cape Horner, the 95-year-old Frank Karlsson, who worked as first mate on the tall ship Viking, another of Gustav Erikson’s ships, and who earned his gold earring (i.e. rounded the Horn) in 1938. We found him at the old folks home in the village of Degerby, stopping there on a whim on a windy day, solely because I’d seen a newspaper article in the museum that mentioned he lived there.

We had countless stories like these that we brought back from Åland, which remains without a doubt the most special cruising ground I’ve yet to explore.

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Idyllic sailing in the BVIs

“

You folks are incredible - you make this easy, fun and safe.”

LATITUDES

Owning a yacht with Horizon Yacht Charters Horizon Yacht Charters was established in the British Virgin Islands in 1998 and since then has been built a strong reputation as a world class provider of sailing vacations at their bases in the Caribbean and USA.

Charter Customer, Bavaria Vision 46 Kibo, Jan 2014.

Horizon Yacht Charters delivers first-class customer service while providing fantastic value for money. With five stunning Caribbean and two superb US charter destinations to choose from, we offer you the very best sailing vacations.

Monohull or multihull, bareboat or crewed, learn to sail, whatever your requirements, you’re in the right company with Horizon Yacht Charters.

Caribbean: BVI • Antigua • Grenada • St Maarten • St Vincent USA: Annapolis, MD • Mystic, CT web: www.horizonyachtcharters.com • e-mail: info@horizonyachtcharters.com phone: +1.284.494.8787 • toll free: 1.877.494.8787

Authorized Dealers for:

In association with Sound Yachting

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LATITUDES

Horizon offers bareboat, crewed and learn to sail at our Caribbean bases in the British Virgin Islands, Antigua & Barbuda, St Maarten and Grenada.

Horizon’s Yacht Sales Division sells yachts (from Bavaria Yachts) and catamarans (from FountainePajot and Lagoon) into their Charter Yacht Ownership Programme. This is a fantastic way of harnessing your new yacht to pay for its keep and to earn you revenue. If you prefer you can of course purchase your yacht from Horizon for private use and Horizon can manage and maintain it for you.

Why do people choose Horizon for their yacht purchase? Here are a few of the many reasons: • Private or charter purchase options • Meticulous yacht maintenance regime – your prized yacht will be well cared for • “try before you buy” – If you buy a yacht within three months of chartering it Horizon refund you for the charter vacation!

• Choice of ownership programmes • Tax-free purchase in the Caribbean This combination continues to prove to be a compelling offering for Horizon’s clients, some of whom are now on their third or fourth yacht with the company.

Summer 2014 Advice to purchasers Thanks to their experience and expertise in the yacht industry, Horizon offers first-class advice to prospective yacht purchasers. They recognize that buying a yacht is a major decision, and work with clients to ensure they will make the best possible purchase decision.

Horizon help purchasers answer questions such as: • Should I purchase a monohull or catamaran?

Answer - it very much depends on your budget and what you plan to do with the yacht when she comes out of charter.

• What cabin layout should I choose? Well, more cabins = more charters as a general rule. Some clients prefer to reduce the number of cabins so they have a larger stateroom. Some yachts, for example the Bavaria Cruiser 46, have a conversion available which transforms the state room into two double cabins in no time at all.

Offering the best of both worlds!

• What income can I expect from my yacht?

Horizon offer accurate projections based on your chosen yacht, including sensitivity analyses for three scenarios of charter bookings.

• How often can I use my yacht myself?

Answer: as often as you wish!

Income programmes Horizon provide two charter ownership income programmes - maximum income and guaranteed income.

Under the maximum income programme, charter yacht owners benefit from: •8 0% of net charter income •U nlimited yacht usage •M onthly maintenance reports •C osts applied to income to minimize administration Clients who choose the guaranteed income programmes enjoy: • F ixed monthly income •A nnual maintenance costs, dockage and insurance covered by Horizon •M onthly maintenance reports Whichever programme Horizon’s owners choose, they can rest assured that their yacht will be in good hands. The yachts are inspected – above deck, below deck and below the waterline – after every charter. During hurricane season the yachts are hauled or safely secured in hurricane holes.

Summary If you are considering purchasing a yacht for use in the Caribbean, Horizon’s reputation and capabilities should ensure they are top of your list for your purchase and management company.

As Horizon say - It’s Your Yacht, Your Way. www.horizonyachtcharters.com Tel: +1 284 494 8787

“

We bought our Fountaine Pajot Helia 44 from Horizon in Tortola after a huge amount of research. The team there has been extremely professional and helpful.

They had endless patience with us and gave us invaluable advice on configuring the final specification.

Having visited with each of the charter companies in the British Virgin Islands and looked at how they operate, I felt that Horizon were doing the best job of maintaining their charter fleet and also had excellent customer service, so we placed it into their fleet for them to manage.”

Owners Helia 44, October 2013 Fountaine Pajot Helia 44

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ARC EUROPE + ARC USA

Atlantic Crossroads Which ever way you are headed on the Atlantic, World Cruising Club’s joint ARC Europe and ARC USA rallies will take you there.

US Boats Head East

Dinner with the crews of Karina, Altair and Keep It Simple

Second start from Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Historic Portsmouth, VA It was a wild week for weather during the Portsmouth starters program! In late April it was 80 degrees and humid at Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth, VA, with thunderstorms and tornado warnings after a wet night in the historic waterfront town.

Temperatures soon dipped into the 50’s, but with clearing skies following a frontal passage, Neptune provided the USA-based fleet a darn good forecast for departure on May 3, and the fleet took advantage, making the Gulf Stream crossing uneventfully and enjoying a smooth romp to Bermuda. Tosca, a 61-foot custom carbon-fiber fast cruising cat, led the way, making the 650-mile passage in a blazing 3 days, seeing top speeds well over 20 knots.

Seven boats took part in the USA start of ARC Europe this year, headed to a mid-atlantic rendezvous at Bermuda to meet with the Caribbean starters. The Portsmouth fleet consisted of three big catamarans (including Tosca, an impressive sight on the end of the main pontoon with her synthetic rigging, rotating wing mast and menacing dark grey hull) and four monohulls. The smallest yacht was Tiger Lily, a Pacific Seacraft 31. With her study bulwarks and oiled teak interior, Tiger Lily was a classic example of stout offshore cruising boat. Though she never made the Atlantic crossing, electing to sail home from Bermuda after a rough start to Leg 2, she’s considerably expanded her horizons already, and have big plans ahead.

“

Both ARC Europe and ARC USA are unique in that there is a mix of boats from the USA and Europe either coming home or starting their adventure, and the mixing and mingling of those two groups are what make the rallies special.”

ARC Europe start off Nanny Cay.

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014 Malisi (foreground) and Tosca lead the fleet out of Bermuda. Photo courtesy bermudaaerial.com.

“

We motor sailed as long as we could last night.

We are wanting wind at 050º on the compass...

The engine has a nice sound, but the silence of the sails is what we are longing for.”

Nirvana

In the middle of the fleet were Sojourner, a Shannon 37 cutter from Milwaukee, Athenea, the other big cat, Mariposa, the third catamaran, Persistent Lady, a classic Hardin 45 ketch (with new aluminum spars!), and Happy Destiny, a Jeanneau 43 with a cheerful crew led by Ray Smith that perfectly embodied the boat’s name.

While the dock was busy with skippers and crew preparing the boats for sea, it wasn’t that busy, even only 48 hours prior to the start. Which was a good sign. The safety inspections went swimmingly, with most folks having arrived at Ocean Marine very well-prepared.

Keep It Simple at the start

Persistent Lady was the only boat with significant work being done on her. Ocean Marine’s haulout facility and service team installed new rudder bearings and beefed up the autopilot linkage prior to the passage. She was launched only hours before the start, but made the line with the rest of the fleet!

The activities in Portsmouth included inspections, safety flare demos, weather briefings and several evening happy hours, where the USA-starters got nicely acquainted with one another before joining the rest of the fleet in Bermuda.

ARC USA’s Old Bahama Channel Route Proves Popular For the boats in ARC USA, the Old Bahama Channel passage is the long way home - 1,000 miles to Ft. Lauderdale, then a coastwise trip to the Chesapeake and beyond for those northernbound boats - but it is statistically an easier route than aiming for Bermuda, with sheltered seas in the lee of the Bahamian islands and favorable current nearly the whole way to Florida.

In 2014, it lived up to its reputation, though with a lack of wind, it might just have been a little too easy, as evidenced by the logs sent in, whilst the crews were at sea.

Happy Hour with the Dark Star crew

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“Still, no rain and we continue to be fortunate with weather,” wrote the crew of Nirvana, one of two newcomers to World Cruising Club rallies. “We motor sailed as long as we could last night. We are wanting wind at 050º on the compass, so think ‘050, 050, 050.’ The engine has a nice sound, but the silence of the sails is what we are longing for.”

A newcomer to World Cruising Club rallies was the 48’ Hinckley Sou-Wester Dark Star, who met the Carib 1500 fleet at the Nanny Cay beach bar during last fall’s rally. Dark Star was bound first for Annapolis, where she spent some time, and ultimately home to Cape Cod. One of Dark Star’s crewmember went on to participate in the firstever ARC DelMarVa rally last June. Welcome to the family!

For the Old Bahama Channel fleet, the rally officially ended at Bahia Mar Marina, in Ft. Lauderdale, where Miles & Anne Poor of longtime sponsor MRP Refits, greeted the fleet with rum drinks and hosted the final group dinner in town.

Afterwards, the fleet dispersed and sailed north to their home destinations at their leisure.

Small boats, big parties Kalimba, the smallest boat in the ARC Europe fleet, arrived just as the Luau on the deck at the Dinghy Club was in full swing in Bermuda, and were offered raucous applause from the rest of the participants as they sailed through Town Cut and into St. Georges. ARC Europe might be a smaller rally compared to the ARC to Saint Lucia, but they still know how to throw big parties!

The Luau was a big hit. Crews dressed in their best Hawaii garb, and Lyall Burgess, ARC Europe rally manager who actually lives on the Big Island, passed out leis to folks as they made their entrance. Andy was tending bar, with free Dark & Stormies for all, while Mia, dressed festively herself in grass skirt and tropical shirt, bounced around the room taking photos.

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ARC EUROPE + ARC USA The Azores - the jewel of the Atlantic Sea Eagle, the big Oyster that was delayed nearly a week in Bermuda for electrical repairs, got a special Azores welcome as they sailed in under the western point of Faial. There, the rest of the ARC Europe fleet was reveling in the prizegiving ceremony during their last evening on the island in the James Bond-like lair beneath the half-buried lighthouse-cum-museum, a relic of a recent eruption on the volcanic island that added not a small amount of landmass to the west! Rally control was able to raise Sea Eagle on the radio as they sailed by, and were given a big ‘HiiiiHOOOOO!’ from the ARC Europe fleet.

Dark Star spinnaker sailing Malisi crew in the Azores

As the Bermuda fleet partied in St. Georges, the ARC USA fleet celebrated their arrival in Florida.

Despite a light-wind start, the route ended up being a particularly fast passage – Miles & Anne Poor on Karina, who pioneered the route for World Cruising Club, reported their fastest ever passage. After all the yachts had safely arrived, they celebrated with a group dinner at the Oasis restaurant in downtown Ft. Lauderdale.

“The party was great fun,” said Anne Poor. “We gave out the participant plaques from Weems & Plath, and a few awards. Moonshadow received the Weems & Plath Navigators Awards for their well-kept traditional logbook, while the crew on Dark Star earned the Seamanship Award for their excellent passage and beautiful boat!”

After the parties, the yachts turned their attention to the matters at hand, namely the sailing!

“This passage to Bermuda was definitely the biggest adventure for Sojourner,” said Ken Smail of the American-flagged Shannon 37 cutter. “And the next leg is even bigger yet, so we’re excited!”

An odd year for weather The longest leg of ARC Europe is of course the 1800-mile jump from Bermuda to Faial, in the Azores. While the Azores High typically dominates a west-east Atlantic crossing in the middle latitudes, it was an annoying low-pressure system in 2014 that dictated the route planning for most of the fleet.

The ‘classic’ route from Bermuda to Faial follows a bending course, sailing first north by east from St. Georges and making time to the 40th parallel, whereby the fleet would turn east, running down that line before diving south again and into Horta.

The idea is to skirt along the top of the Azores High, latching on to the prevailing westerlies circulating north of the High’s center.

In 2014, the opposite happened. A low-pressure system situated north of Bermuda as the fleet readied for departure deepened (the same low that doomed Cheeki Rafiki – see side bar), causing the routing for the rally to head south and east, rather than north. For the first several days offshore the fleet experienced headwinds and challenging conditions before things ‘normalized’ as the low dissipated and moved off to the northwest, allowing the high to re-establish itself.

While the atypical route slowed down the fleet and added hours to the crossing, in the end it was a minor bump in the road for the rally fleet and a reminder that the pilot charts and long-term weather patterns are always subject to change!

Lyall, Mia and Andy, the ‘yellowshirts’ out of uniform at the costume party!

Cheeki Rafiki search highlights the ‘wilderness’ of ocean sailing Sadly, what most yachts will remember most about the 2014 ARC Europe rally is the search for the missing crew of the Cheeki Rafiki, a member of the World Cruising family as a former ARC participant.

When the news first reached the fleet, it became apparent that Malisi, a 60-foot catamaran which was leading the fleet across, was only 70nm from the last known position of Cheeki Rafiki. They quickly volunteered to lead the search once contacted by rally control. Malisi led the charge on what became an enormous international search effort, involving coastguard assets from the US, Canada and the UK, plus several rally yachts and merchant ships.

While Malisi sited unidentified debris shortly after their search began, ultimately it proved unrelated. A few days after the USCG resumed their search, a US Navy ship found the upturned hull of Cheeki Rafiki and determined that the liferaft had not been deployed. The yachts keel was missing, an obvious clue as to its demise, and no survivors were found. Malisi’s crew were lauded by both the rally fleet and the international news media for putting themselves on the line in the finest traditions of the sea.

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ARC EUROPE + ARC USA

For some, the start of a grand adventure; for others, a trip home

The Azores really are a destination unto themselves, and not just a refueling stop on the way across the North Atlantic. It is sad to see the high number of visiting yachts that stop for just one night to refuel, drink a gin & tonic at Peter Cafe Sport and carry on. They are missing out!

ARC Europe crews are always pleasantly surprised by the beautiful islands and the friendly people that live there.

night for a couple of months and is hosted by different villages and parishes around the island.

In a fleet of cream coloured Mercedes taxis, the crews arrived shortly before the first cannon signaled the bull was out on the streets, and most of the crews found high ground to watch from. It wasn’t long before the bravado kicked in and there were crews out on the street with the local guys getting their adrenalin flowing.

Leaving Horta, crews enjoyed a daysail (really a ‘motor’ in 2014) to Terceira where they spotted whales and dolphins during the crossing. The marina in Terceira is at the foot of the colorful city of Angra do Heroismo, a UNESCO World Heritage city, and crews were taken on a guided walking tour by local guide Paulo. A passionate man from the island, he explained a lot of the important history (did you know Angra was twice the capital of Portugal?) and gained access to some buildings’ interiors that would otherwise have been off-limits.

An overnight downwind trip brings crews to the cosmopolitan city of Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores. Well-dressed locals come down to the cafes and restaurants to look out over the marina and the cruise ships and yachts berthed there.

After the smaller islands of Faial and Terciera, it has the feeling of a busy place, but once out in the surrounding countryside it is soon evident that this is also a beautifully quiet island.

The street bull running fiesta is always interesting to see. A completely unique pastime found only on the island of Terceira the, ‘Tourada a Corde’ takes place almost every

The two weeks of cruising the Azores finishes at Santa Maria, where the fleet regroups for a medieval themed farewell pig roast before the final – and usually idyllic – 900-mile passage to Portugal and mainland Europe. Boats also have the option of a northern route towards the UK and Ireland.

Shenanigan & Webster enjoying a cocktail on the far side of the pond after a successful crossing.

For some, the start of a grand adventure; for others, a trip home How do you sum up such a big and varied rally like ARC Europe / USA? In short, you can’t.

You’d think that with two fleets, starting from two different ports and sailing in two opposite directions with two very distinct goals in mind, would make for a haphazard and poorly defined event. You’d be wrong.

Both ARC Europe and ARC USA are unique in that there is a mix of boats from the USA and Europe either coming home or starting their adventure, and the mixing and mingling of those two groups are what make the rallies special. While the USA fleet is excited to welcome their European guests into their own home waters – sharing charts and cruising guides, local knowledge and offering car rides and homes ashore – the ARC Europe fleet is just as excited to share their own experiences with the adventurous sailors from the USA bound for European waters.

In the end, it’s the Spirit of the Rally that always rings truest in trying to sum up the events. While Moonshadow in the USA fleet were recognized for their navigational prowess in Florida, and Ken from Kristy Sue gallantly sailed home to New England via Bermuda by his lonesome as the only ARC USA yacht to take the classic offshore route, it was the crew of Webster who made the biggest impression on the European side for their constant banter, parties on the dock and general enthusiasm for their cruising mates in the rally fleet.

For rally staff and sailors alike, it is this unbridled enthusiasm and unbreakable spirit that makes the rallies such a special thing to be a part of.

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LATITUDES

World ARC The fourth edition of World ARC, World Cruising Club’s annual circumnavigation of the globe, set sail from Saint Lucia in spectacular conditions in January to begin another around the world adventure.

The diversity of the fleet of 39 yachts was as broad as previous years with crews representing 15 nationalities including families, couples and sailing friends and a huge mix of ages on board. These were the ingredients for a trip of a lifetime.

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Summer 2014

Ready for the World ARC adventure

The Kleiburg family on Saphir

www.worldcruising.com

WORLD ARC

Setting sail from Rodney Bay, Saint Lucia

As predicted, following a great programme and send off from World Cruising Club’s supporters in Saint Lucia, those ingredients were ‘well mixed’ in some challenging weather conditions as the fleet crossed the Caribbean sea to Panama.

The journey, of just over 1,000 nautical miles, was a sleigh ride of strong winds and following seas.

But for the last time, Leg 1 ended in the idyllic San Blas islands. In future editions the first leg will be from Saint Lucia to Santa Marta in Colombia; making 18 countries visited on the World ARC route from 2015.

After a true shake-down passage across the Caribbean Sea, the San Blas islands never fail to deliver a very welcome rest in peaceful surroundings. For many who have worked to free themselves from business or family life to set off on their adventure, this environment is a great reward and makes a step change for crews needing to adapt to their new cruising lifestyles.

The low-lying islands and anchorages also make it easy for crews to meet one another and start to get to know their new extended family.

However preparing for and transiting through this engineering miracle is always a highlight for crews in their circumnavigation. It is a fascinating feat of physics and almost marks a point of no return for circumnavigators – the adventure has begun and there is no turning back! The World ARC fleet

prepared for the transit at Shelter Bay Marina, a well-equipped facility, perfect for preparing for the Canal transit.

There is an impressive expansion plan taking place to increase the capacity of the ship locks to larger than ‘Panamax’ size. The construction is underway, but its unlikely yachts will transit through these chambers in the near future. World ARC crews did however get to learn about the plan and see the original locks in operation from the Gatun Lock Visitor Centre before their own transits. The crews need not have been experts though because, as always, the Panama Canal provided a team of friendly advisors to guide yachts through their transit.

Boats at anchor in Chichime, San Blas

The beauty of San Blas is in contrast to the hard functionality of the Panama Canal.

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014

Nexus Log: Panama Canal

Clementina and Celebrate approaching Gatun Lock

“A restful but short night in the big lake in Panama, after completing our first half passage through the Panama Canal. The Canal is AWESOME, and it was really fun to watch it work, and especially to drive through it with two 40’ boats rafted to our sides! The adviser was excellent and really fun to work with, and the World ARC staff did a superb job preparing us for the journey, there were no surprises other than the beauty of the area and impressive engineering and clockwork precision of the locks.

We went through with 11 World ARC boats, and in the middle lock, someone in the group played the bagpipes, which gave a wonderful ambiance to the trip and solicited a salute from the horn of the freighter in the other lock.”

As the locks gates cracked open in the final lock chamber, crews motored out into the Pacific and headed for the La Playita anchorage on the doorstep of Panama City. The city is an interesting one to visit and is a useful place to stock up on provisions before heading out across the Pacific.

Once fully stocked the Las Perlas islands are just a day sail away and anchoring amongst these islands is far more interesting than being on the mainland as crews enjoyed their first taste of the Pacific. The tides make some of the anchorages tricky but they also provide some interesting possibilities to dinghy up little estuaries and rivers to explore inland. Some are quite shallow, but one can float up and down on the tide.

Restarting from the small island of Contadora in the Las Perlas islands was memorable as the fleet left in downwind conditions with several yachts flying their spinnakers. Not long after the start the radio sparked to life with reports of crews catching fish in these marine rich waters and seeing dolphins accompanying their boats.

The fleet headed across the equatorial doldrum belt, but the winds for most were better than expected and crews made quicker crossing than in previous years. There were several ceremonies to toast Neptune as the uninitiated sailed across the Equator for the first time.

As sailors come ashore in Puerto Baquerizo in the Galapagos islands, they are always surprised to see the abundance of wildlife on the landing steps and as they walk ashore. Sea lions and marine iguanas circle the docks and sunbathe ashore, and in the evening light the rays glide in the lights of the town piers. Galapagos is a special place and the richness of wildlife seen here challenges anywhere else visited on the World ARC route.

However, where Galapagos also challenges and surpasses all others stopovers, is the level of bureaucracy, dishonesty and the implementation of its laws and rules. For many, this was near-total distraction from all the positive aspects offered by the islands’ wildlife and landscape. On arrival 18 yachts of the fleet were found to have organisms on their hulls which were deemed a threat to the environment. These yachts were mandated to put to sea to be professionally cleaned if they wanted to stay in the islands – a frustrating experience for all those affected. And before departure it took the hourly supervision of Rally Control to ensure that a US gallon of diesel was equal to the “Galapagos gallon”. Following these episodes, it was a shame to leave such a place of promise, with such a feeling of unfulfilling.

The fleet in Las Perlas

Into the Pacific, the fleet fly downwind to the Galapagos

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WORLD ARC Green turtle seen whilst diving in Isabela, Galapagos

Meeting the Galapagos locals during the Kicker Rock Tour

That said, all crews did manage some great tours on and around the islands, either for one day on a small speed boat or several days on a liveaboard boat. The scenery and the wildlife are both amazing and whether you are walking, snorkelling or diving, it is everywhere, and close. The habitat is not tamed, there are no ‘shows’, but because everything is so numerous, it is as it the species are trained to be around each visiting tourist.

Island Hopping in the Pacific The sail from Galapagos to Hiva Oa in the Marquesas group is the longest passage of the rally, but the miles clicked over at a reasonable rhythm for the fleet, with light trade winds and easy sailing conditions.

The reward for this long passage was the chance to visit some of the remotest Pacific islands on the rally route. Coral atolls stretch thru the Tuamotos like a string of pearls; elsewhere, long dead volcanoes are the bases of the jagged peaks of the Marquesas, or the isolated island of Niue, known to its inhabitants colloquially as “the rock”.

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LATITUDES

Summer 2014

Tommy and Marianne (II Audeacious) with Cathy and Charlie (Celebrate)

The Marquesas mark the start of two months in French Polynesia, an area the same size as Europe. The Tuamotos , the next islands in the chain, are geographically distinct from the green and mountainous Marquesas, but the people are friendly and there’s also so much to do. Diving in Rangiroa sets a standard for all other places, and truth be known, divers and snorkelers in Rangiroa are unlikely to see anything comparable along the World ARC route. There is plenty to see and the sharks can be quite inquisitive too adding a real thrill! From Bora Bora in the Society Islands, at the end of the line, it is a ‘Hop, Skip & a Jump’, via Suwarrow and Niue to arrive in the Vava’u group of Tonga.

Suwarrow: miles from anywhere!

The atoll of Suwarrow has no inhabitants for most of the year and is 500 nautical miles from any other significant land.

“Firefly is anchored in the lee of Anchorage Island in the Suwarrow lagoon. It is stunningly beautiful and feels like we are miles from anywhere - and we are! … we were wondering if we could stay here for ever!” Paul & Susie, Firefly.

Once in Tonga, the cruising area in Vava’u is an excellent one; the weather is mostly kind and predictable and the shorelines, above and below the water, are also extremely interesting. There are numerous caves and coral gardens which can be snorkelled or dived on.

“ We drove our dingy right into Swallow’s cave, which is an impressively large cave with many alcoves of stalactites and stalagmites, and of course, swallows!

The light at sunset shone into the cave with a blue and orange glow which was just magical! We jumped off the dingy and snorkelled every corner of the cave with underwater lights, finding many fish and geologic formations that made it a special memory” Russ & Laurie Owen, Nexus

The World ARC fleet on Niue

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WORLD ARC After cruising Fiji, next stop was Vanuatu. There is a huge contrast in what is found at the start and finish of the Musket Cove to Tanna, Vanuatu leg. The luxurious Fijian resort is delightful, but it could not be more different from the simple surroundings of Port Resolution on Tanna.

The two places are worlds apart and the only common theme is really the friendliness of the people. The warmth of the villagers is felt as soon as one steps ashore and it was reciprocated and developed during the stay; gifts were exchanged, generators were fixed, fresh fruit and walking tours were offered. It was an exceptional experience and the memories will stay with the crews a long time.

The Rally can only stop in Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu, for a week, but it is always a pleasant and friendly gathering at the Waterfront Marina.

It is also a useful place to provision after the remoteness of Tanna. However, with the strict Australian agricultural protection measures looming, crews must be disciplined about what and how much they buy. That said, there are no shops on the 1000+ mile journey to Australia and crews always over-budget, leading to an ‘eating marathon’ as landfall approaches.

World ARC also continued its support to this remote community with financial help for local projects. Building on other past sponsorship, World ARC 2014-15 participants concentrated their support to improvements at the infant and junior school in the village and thru this generosity, building work has already started the first of two new structures which will really benefit the learning and living environment for the children and their teachers.

Tim & Clare Hagon, Ghost.

Mount Yasur volcano in Tanna

Tonga was also the place where several crews in the Rally changed down a gear to continue some of the rally route at a slower pace. This is one of the great benefits of the new, annual cycle of World ARC. Crews with more time to spend on their whole circumnavigation can begin one World ARC from the Caribbean and accompany that group across the Pacific, before leaving the Rally in the western Pacific. The crew can then take time out to explore this part of the World, before linking up with the next World ARC passing through.

“fruit and vegetables had to be eaten or taken from us when we arrived. This lead to panic from our crew who, when they weren’t sleeping were trying to eat everything on board!”

The World ARC fleet will have several weeks free cruising in Australia up to Darwin on the northwest coast, from where the fleet will regroup again before setting off to cross their next and second ocean - the Indian Ocean. The fleet will be joined by a few more boats that start their adventure from Australia, making a fleet of twenty two yachts.

To support this, World Cruising Club has launched a new route option, ARC New Zealand, which brings together those boats who wish to spend the ‘off-season’ exploring New Zealand. The Rally will gather the yachts together in Noumea, New Caledonia in November and then the yachts will sail together down to Opua, on North Island of New Zealand. In the next season, these yachts will join together again to make the ‘uphill’ journey back to the Tonga and meet the next World ARC fleet in Fiji.

Exporing under water

The exchange of gifts ceremony in Tanna, Vanuatu

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Navigation in your pocket Imray charts are available for Apple iPad, iPhone, and iPod Download the free ‘Marine Imray Charts’ App through the App store to access extensive chart coverage for NW Europe, the Mediterranean, Caribbean and East coast of Australia.

The app provides a fully functioning chart navigation package using award winning quality raster charts.

For the catalogue of Imray books and charts visit our web site www.imray.com rs be out m e ck b m e che u l C th ing 0 at s i C1 ru d C e WC l r Wo cod for the A YB3 use

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A regular position report from your yacht (e.g. once per hour) Your own web link, showing current position, historic track, plus blog entries, photos, videos and more. e.g. http://my.yb.tl/sorlandet 5-Button keypad plus specific ‘alert’ button

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www.worldcruising.com

LATITUDES

Childhood games and fantasies and early family experiences fostered a passion for the water from boating ponds to rivers, seas and oceans.

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Books & Gear 1: To Sea Oar Knot to Sea As a novice crew member invited to sail the Atlantic with his brother this humorous report about ARC 2013 has brilliantly captured the whole essence of the rally.

Cleverly structured to cover all aspects of the planning, the crossing and the arrival in just the right proportions the tale touches on many important considerations and moments throughout the experience.

Humour lightens the tone throughout and will ease any would be Atlantic sailors apprehension. It has taken a novice sailor (by his own admission) to see the ARC from a totally different and refreshing angle; a must read for any crew considering the Atlantic crossing.

By Andrew Diggins ISBN 9780752216390

2: Fight for Sight on Theo’s Future: A Voyage of Hope & Endeavour Colonel Mike Brooke has published an account of his voyage around Great Britain in a 19-foot cutter to raise money for Moorfields Hospital and the UCL Institute of Opthalmology to research gene therapy to combat congenital blindness, which has affected his godson among thousands of others. The proceeds from the book will go to the charities Fight for Sight and the Cetacean Research and Rescue Unit, dedicated to the welfare, conservation and protection of whales, dolphins and porpoises, a charity dear to his late son, Simon. The book can be ordered directly from Mike www.theosfuture.org

By Mike Brooke ISBN 9780903530408

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It covers some of the practicalities and insights of a group of people with different experience and personalities who worked and sailed together for over 4000 miles in total.

It looks at the mission and vision and considers the leadership and team work that everyone needed to demonstrate in order to ensure a safe, happy and successful journey, a virginal ocean crossing.

Fulfilling the Dream

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This is a true story of how one early dream evolved and was turned eventually into a set of considered practical plans and then a real life experience.

Team Excellence

A story of a dream that became reality and in turn has spawned more dreams.

Team Excellence Fulfilling the Dream

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an ocean crossing

3: Imray Chart Navigator App 2014 editions Download the free Marine Imray Charts app from the iTunes App Store. Version 3.0 of the Marine Imray Charts app for iPad, iPhone and iPod is now available as a free upgrade.

It contains many improvements and is fully optimised for IOS7 as well as giving access to the 2014 editions of the chart sets. These contain new editions published during the last year. For existing users upgrades of chart sets are available at a discounted price.

4: Team Excellence – Fulfilling the dream A story of a dream that became reality and in turn has spawned more dreams.

This is a true story of how one early dream evolved and was turned eventually into a set of considered practical plans and then a real life experience. It covers some of the practicalities and insights of a group of people with different experience and personalities who worked and sailed together for over 4000 miles in total. It looks at the mission and vision and considers the leadership and team work that everyone needed to demonstrate in order to ensure a safe, happy and successful journey, a virginal ocean crossing. Available through Amazon.

By Peter Coxon ISBN 978-1907048203

5: Shooting Stars and Flying Fish A light-hearted but inspirational memoir about a remarkable couple who left behind the corporate rat-race and their previous life as racing sailors to follow their dream of sailing around the world - a story that demonstrates the rewards of taking risks to follow one’s star. The book is available from Allen & Unwin online, or from Amazon, and is available world-wide on Kindle.

By Nancy Knudsen ISBN: 9781742376653

6: Hasta Bananas Retired after thirty years of flying as a commercial pilot for Swissair, Otti Schmid bought an ocean going sailing yacht. With little experience on the open sea, he set sail to circumnavigate the earth. He crossed the Atlantic Ocean with the ARC and arrived at the entrance to the Panama Canal where his first book, Hasta Bananas begins. Follow Otti’s adventure to Galapagos, Polynesia and Melanesia, New Zealand and Australia. Hasta Bananas is available in English and German through the Kindle store on Amazon, along with his second book, Hasta Luego www.hastabananas.ch

By Otti Schmid Ebook English & German

7: Gill Watches The new range of sailing watches from Gill are specifically designed with all the features that you are looking for on the water.

For the racing environment the countdown timer can be adjusted to any start sequence, and the highlighted synchro function means that the start time will always be spot-on.

The displays feature large clear easy to read numerals that increase in size and clarity for the final minute before the start.

Both watches are packed with useful well thought-out features such as a key lock function to make sure that buttons are not pressed accidentally, a really loud alarm beep to make sure that you hear it even when it is really breezy and an electro luminescent back light for night use. A sleep function preserves battery life when not in use.

The Regatta Master Watch has the additional feature of dual time function for different time zones and a stopwatch.

It is protected by a smart Stainless Steel and reinforced ABS plastic construction creating a tough, impact resistant shell which is water resistant to 50m. The Race Watch uses a carbon reinforced ABS plastic construction with a stainless steel case back and is water resistant to 30m. Both styles use a flexible and hardwearing Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) strap. www.gillna.com

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LATITUDES

Cruising notes from noonsite.com A round-up of recent news and information for cruising sailors from Noonsite.com, the global directory for cruising sailors.

Noonsite.com aims to provide a one-stop website featuring essential information on all matters of interest to sailors planning an offshore voyage anywhere in the world, whether already underway or still in the preparatory stages. All cruising destinations are covered (currently 193 countries and 1845 ports) with information on clearance formalities, visa requirements, fees, weather, special events and other facts needed by visiting sailors. Also featured are details of repair facilities as well as marine and shore services for every major port visited by cruising boats.

Solomon Islands: Where to cruise in the Solomon Island Top-tips on “must see” places in one of the less frequented cruising areas of the pacific. www.noonsite.com/Countries/SolomonIslands/ solomon-islands-our-advice-following-a-cruisethere-in-2013

Russia: following the Viking route south In 2012 the Russian Prime Minister decreed that restrictions on entry of foreign vessels into Russia’s inland waterways were to be eased. Now, those yachts seeking a novel route south from Svalbard and Norway to the Mediterranean can consider the Volga River route. www.noonsite.com/Countries/Russia/ exploring-russia-s-inland-waterways-norwayto-the-med-via-the-volga-river-2013

Philippines: The Hinatuan Passage - East to West The passage from Palau to the Philippines is sailed by many boats each year. When heading to Cebu or passing through the Philippines to Malaysia, the shortest route goes through the Hinatuan

Passage. This report from Jim and Katie Thomsen, S/Y Tenaya, who transited the passage in February 2014. www.noonsite.com/Countries/ Philippines/philippines-the-hinatuan-passageeast-to-west

South Pacific, Niue: Arrive with correct paperwork or face fines Lying on the direct route from French Polynesia to Vava’u in Tonga, Niue is a favourite stop for westbound yachts. With the first arrivals this season clearing into Niue, the authorities are keen to try and highlight the need for the correct “clearance” requirements before yachts arrive in Niue.

French Polynesia: Good News for Visiting Yachts From 22nd April 2014, the length of time a yacht may remain in French Polynesia has been extended to 36 months with no minimum period outside the country before returning. www. noonsite.com/Countries/FrenchPolynesia/ french-polynesia-good-news-for-visiting-yachts

Australia: Customs move to make pleasure craft reporting and clearance totally electronic

Very special and worth the trouble says Colleen Wilson of S/V Mokisha. www.noonsite.com/Countries/India/a-visit-tothe-andaman-islands-march-2014-very-specialand-worth-the-trouble

Australian Customs and Border Protection are going to introduce a system of Electronic Reporting for international yacht arrivals and departures beginning in September of this year.

Currently the proposed reporting forms are in trial phase and the ACBPS want your feedback. www.noonsite.com/Countries/Australia/ australia-customs-move-to-make-pleasurecraft-reporting-and-clearance-totallyelectronic

Greece: New Cruising Tax Latest updates

Algeria: we were met with goodwill and generosity

Cruising sailors in Greece now face increased costs as the Government impose a new tax on all leisure and commercial tourist craft. The Cruising Association (CA) are following this new “proposed tax” very closely and are in direct contact with the Ministry of Maritime Affairs and the Aegean who are responsible for implementing this tax. The CA have been seeking a number of concessions and the latest situation can be seen at their website.

For detailed information about this tax, as well as a translation of the new law, see www.cruising. org.uk/news/greektax

The crew of yacht Adina visited Algeria in August 2013. An excellent account of their travels there, with photos, can be found at www.yachtadina. co.uk/algeria. Here they have sent noonsite a summary of what to expect and an outline of the main ports you can visit safely. www.noonsite.com/Countries/Algeria/ welcome-to-algeria-we-were-met-withgoodwill-and-generosity

India: A visit to the Andaman Islands

For the latest cruising news, follow @noonsiteeditor on twitter 47

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