May-June 2017 Beauty World Middle East Special

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Welcome to Beautyworld Middle East The largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing in the Middle East Eternally flawless and constantly reinventing itself, Beautyworld Middle East is the wider region’s premier trade and networking event for beauty, hair, fragrance, machinery, packaging, raw materials, and wellbeing.

Last year the show welcomed over 37,000 visitors from 131 countries and featured over 1,500 exhibitors from 59 countries. Now in it's 22nd edition, Beautyworld Middle East will take place from 14 - 16 May, 2017 in Dubai. The show's influence has spread not only across the Middle East and Africa plus the Indian subcontinent but has gone well beyond, offering thousands of influential trade buyers the latest beauty trends and exciting new opportunities for their businesses.

We look forward to welcoming you to the show!

Printed, Published & Owned by Amrita Kanwar. Published at D 182, PR House, Anand Vihar, Delhi 110 092 and Printed at Chandu Press, 63, Patparganj, Delhi. Editor : Amrita Kanwar

WE ARE EXCITED TO WELCOME AFRICAN FORMULA’S NEW GENERATION OF PRODUCTS WITH NATURAL EXTRACTS! MIAMI, FLORIDA, USA

W

e are pleased to announce, the new arrivals just in time for spring: African Formula® new soaps, with natural extracts!

If you would like more information about this topic or about additional products, please contact: International Beauty Exchange through email at info@ibeautyexchange.com

African Formula® brand has been known for many years, as an even complexion line, offering products that help with acne, anti-aging and dark pigmentation that may occur due to sun exposure, free radicals, and other environmental factors.

African Formula® Soaps are 100% vegetable base with a creamy moisturizing texture and Intensive combination of Vitamin E and natural extracts which are beneficial to the nourishment of the skin. The Soaps are made without parabens, sulfates and animal fat. Choose between eight amazing combinations: African Formula® Jojoba & Coconut Oil, Papaya & Mango, 3 in 1 Butter Soap, Shea-Butter with Lavender, Honey Black Seed, Neem Oil & Oatmeal and Olive & Almond Butter. Lather hands and body with these gentle and moisturizing soaps of assorted natural fragrances to cleanse and lightly scent your skin.

Now, at International Beauty Exchange, Inc. we are expanding our skin care products that will benefit our multicultural consumers by promoting the best items and give them the beautiful skin they’re looking for.

4 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

International Beauty Exchange is the global leading innovator of treatment oriented to skin care products for over 20 years.

Our products are best known for reducing skin discoloration, normalizing facial oil production, hydrating dry skin, gradually fading dark spots, and acne blemishes. The active ingredients in our products are Vitamins A, C & E and natural extracts designed for evening out hyper pigmented areas of the skin. International Beauty Exchange offers a large variety of products that treat users’ skin care needs leaving a soft beautiful even skin tone.

International Beauty Exchange 5810 NW 163rd st, Miami Lakes, FL 33014. United States. www.ibeautyexchange.com | www.topiclearinc.com info@ibeautyexchange.com

MEET US IN: 14-16 May, 2017 Dubai

Stand Number:S1-I21

beautyexpo makes a triumphant return in 2017 beautyexpo successfully facilitated up to 80 business deals.

One of the exhibitors who joined business matching session during beautyexpo’16, Karina Katzer, the representative of The Republic of Poland Embassy states, “beautyexpo provides us a good platform to penetrate the Asia market. Since we participated in beautyexpo, the demand of beauty products from Poland witnessed an increase over the years especially from Malaysia, Singapore and Korea. We believe this is the best place to have business matching and to meet with potential buyers and distributors.”

Exhibiting at a trade show is an exclusive way to grow your customer base and market share. According to a study conducted by the Center for Exhibition Industry Research (CEIR), 86% of show attendees were decision makers or influenced purchasing decisions, however 85% had not been called on by a salesperson before the show. beautyexpo is a market-leading business-to-business beauty event organizer in Malaysia where bridging business networks become a reality with pools of distributors, manufacturers, franchisors and trade buyers.

b

eautyexpo, the largest and longest running beauty exhibition is recognized as the region’s most established trade show for the beauty industry. It is a comprehensive four-day annual event that covers all sectors of the industry all under one roof. beautyexpo marks the 17th edition in 2017. beautyexpo17 will take place at the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Malaysia from 6 – 9 October 2017, where key decision makers and retailers meet and network. beautyexpo features 6 dedicated exhibit zones, Beauty salon, Hair products and equipment, Nail products and tools, Make-up and education, Health and wellness, and Halal cosmetic. beautyexpo is the pioneer in introducing Halal cosmetics pavilion and the only exhibition to promote a distinct

zone for Halal beauty. Halal industry in Malaysia is growing rapidly and gaining popularity among all population. The benefits, crueltyfree method and 'cleaner' ingredients used help draw in non-Muslim consumers. Halal Industry Development Corporation states that Halal cosmetics exports in Malaysia hit USD107 million in the first quarter of 2016, up from USD74 million in the same period last year.

Various show attractions that aim to inspire all beauty professionals include international level competitions, live demonstration, educational seminars and business matching program. beautyexpo’17 gathers local and international trade professionals across the globe and maximize their value of attending by arranging pre schedule 1-to-1 meeting between potential buyers and sellers. The 16th edition of

6 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

In association with

SAVE THE DATE 14th - 16th October 2017 | ExCeL London

Book your tickets quoting promo code BFW2 to be in with a chance of winning £250 to spend at the show!

www.salonshow.co.uk/book CONTACT US: info@hji.co.uk or +44 121 7966291

Hair: Jules Holland Photographer: Mark Hill

Trevor Sorbie returns to the Salon International stage Hairdressing legend Trevor Sorbie confirms return to the Salon International Live stage for the first time in 15 years.

He’s quite simply a legend. And this year, Trevor Sorbie will return to the Live stage at Salon International to inspire, educate and demonstrate precisely why he’s been at the top his game since he started in the industry in 1964.

In what promises to be a spectacular show, Trevor will present alongside his art team in his first full Salon International live show in 15 years. Salon International is the show

to be at to see iconic hairdressing names and experience the big show experience, whilst immersing yourself in all things industry for a whole weekend. Trevor will be bringing his models to the Salon International Press Office too for an up-close presentation environment.

“This show will be a sell out and the Salon International team are so excited to welcome Trevor back to his hairdressing home from where he has inspired thousands of hairdressers. This is a real once-in-alifetime opportunity to spend over an hour watching this true hairdressing icon at work,” says Jayne LewisOrr, Executive Director of Salon International.

“My core philosophy has always been to push the limits of what’s possible with hair,” says Trevor.

10 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

“Along with my Artistic Director Tom Connell, I aim to bring the audience into our world, show them our creative process and make them excited to go to work the next day. I will be on stage cutting hair alongside my artistic team, who will be demonstrating avant-garde dressing, a completely new approach to colour and forward-thinking haircuts.”

The Trevor Sorbie show will take place at 10:30am on Sunday 15 October at Salon International, with tickets starting at £81+VAT (including show entry). Salon International takes places at ExCeL London from Saturday 14 Monday 16 October.

To register for your press pass to this year’s Salon International please visit: www.salonshow.co.uk/press

Oliban (KING OF OILS) “WE ARE A LEADING INNOVATION COMPANY IN GCC IN HEALTH & WELLNESS. OWNED BY GOVERNMENT. WE PRODUCE OMANI FRANKINCENSE OIL BRANDE Oliban WHICH IS BEST GRADE OF ITS KIND. WE ARE INTO OPERATING RESORTS, SPA’S IN AND AROUND OMAN, AND ALSO DISTRIBUTION OF SPA AND HOTEL PRODUCTS. WE ARE CURRENTLY DEALING WITH ALL MAJOR 5 STAR AND 4 STAR HOTELS IN OMAN, LIKE – RITZ CARLTON, ANANTARA, INTERCONTINENTAL, MILLENNIUM ETC.”

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OLIBAN AMENITIES – THE INTERNATIONAL STANDARD PRODUCTS APPROVED BY FDA. PRODUCTS INCLUDE – SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER, LOTION, BATH GEL, NATURAL SOAP. AVAILABLE IN 30ML AND 1LTR PACKAGING. SPA OILS & DISPOSABLES – IN THIS CATEGORY OF PRODUCTS WE HAVE MASSAGE OILS, CARRIER OILS, DIFFUSER OILS, ESSENTIAL OILS, STEAM SAUNA OILS,DEAD SEA PRODUCTS & COLD TOWEL OILS FOR REFRESH TOWELS. AND DISPOSABLES INCLUDE , UNDERGARMENTS, BEDSHEETS ETC CURRENTLY WE ARE THE MAJOR LOCAL SUPPLIER OF SPA PRODUCTS IN OMAN. DEALING WITH ALL MAJOR 5STARS , 4STARS AND DAY SPA. DIFFUSERS – WE HAVE MACHINES THAT CAN BE INSTALLED IN AC DUCT SYSTEM, AND ALSO STAND ALONE UNITS FOR LOBBY AND ROOMS. OUR SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE IS FRANKINCENSE, APART FROM THAT WE HAVE 30 OTHER FRAGRANCES, AND ALSO OUR RESEARCH AND DEVELEPMENT DEPARTMENT ARE CAPABLE OF DEVELOPING FRAGRANCE ON CUSTOMER NEEDS.

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Frankincense is extracted from the fragrant resin of the Boswellia Sacra (Frankincense Tree) found in the deserts of Dhofar Region in the South of Oman. This oil is valued not only in religious practice, but also in aromatherapy and natural health.

Facial Cream This luxurious frankincense rejuvenating cream leaves your face feeling soft, fresh, and smooth. It’s suitable for all skin types.

Frankincense light hair oil absorbs instantly to restore vitality, gloss and shine of your hair.

Main ingredient is 100% Pure Authentic Frankincense Oil from Oman with high predominance of alpha- pinene which clearly distinguishes it from the other known species that has many health benefits as well as a woody, earthy, spicy and slightly fruity aroma, which is calming and relaxing .

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Trust that you will enjoy its many benefits as much as us producing this products for you!

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12 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

Rejuvenating Facial wash Frankincense facial wash gently cleanses your skin, without drying it, by washing away make-up and everyday impurities. The rejuvenating properties of frankincense leaves your face feeling Young & refreshed. It’s suitable for all skin types. Refreshing Aromatic Shower Gel Frankincense foaming gel can be used to create a relaxing bath or as a body wash in the shower It gently cleanses and leaves the body delicately fragranced with the scent of frankincense. It’s suitable for all skin types Optical Fine Conducting & Rejuvenating EYE Serum Frankincense eye serum gives your skin an intensive boost with patented electronic delivery system. It reduces the appearance of under eye circles, puffiness and restore the elasticity to the skin around the eyes. Try it once and love it forever.

Calming Facial Mist Frankincense facial mist deeply nourishes and firms your skin - leaving you fragrant and smooth. Suitable for all skin type. Balanced Natural Hair Shampoo Frankincense Shampoo restore hair’s body and root. It has a natural low lathering foam to avoid stripping away the hair’s natural oils, which can leave it feeling brittle and dry as well as irritating the scalp.

OLIBAN ELEMENTS Body Lotion-30ML BOTTLE Frankincense body lotion leaves your skin feeling luxuriously smooth and smelling beautifully fragrant. A favorite that suitable for every skin type Conditioner-30ML BOTTLE Frankincense natural conditioner enriches fine, fly away hair and smoothing unruly strands. It enhances shine to leave your hair feeling lustrous and

manageable, from root to tip. Best used with oliban Balanced Natural Hair Shampoo. Refreshing Aromatic Shower Gel-30ML BOTTLE Frankincense foaming gel can be used to create a relaxing bath or as a body wash in the shower.It gently cleanses and leaves the body delicately Fragranced with the scent of frankincense. It’s suitable for all skin types.

GEL,NATURAL HAIR SHAMPOO, FACIAL MIST,FACIAL WASH,FACIAL CREAM, REJUVENATING FACIAL SERUM,HERBAL HAIR OIL. PRICE 65.000 OMR.

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Balanced Natural Hair Shampoo-30ML BOTTLE Frankincense Shampoo restore hair’s body and root.It has a natural low lathering foam to avoid stripping away the hair’s natural oils, which can leave it feeling brittle and dry as well as irritating the scalp OLIBAN REMEDIES Nasal Inhaler It is the first of its kind using the frankincense medical properties; anti-inflammatory, calming, and relaxing to combat the airway congestion. It will be soothing your breath and gives you a good night sleep Headache relief roller Frankincense has been used in the tradition to combat the tension, stress and inflammation. Using the Oliban Headache relief blend will ease your tension and gives you a relaxing mood Joints & Muscles Balm Frankincense balm combine anti-inflammatory & relaxing properties to relieve muscle strain and joint pain and give you an enjoyment of pain free moments. Mouth Wash Frankincense combine refreshing and antibacterial properties to cleanse the mouth and leave your breath smelling naturally sweet and fresh.

OLIBAN GIFTS SEVEN WONDERS OF OLIBAN GIFT SET: INCLUDES:AROMATIC SHOWER

OLIBAN AROMATIC NATURAL HAND SOAP 1LTR – CAN - 22.000 OLIBAN NATURAL BODY LOTION – 1LTR – CAN – 20.000 OLIBAN REFRESHING AROMATIC SHOWER GEL - 1LTR –CAN – 25.000 BALANCED NATURAL HAIR SHAMPOO – 1LTR –CAN – 25.000 PRODUCTS • OLIBAN CARRIER OILS (15 VARIETIES) • OLIBAN MASSAGE OILS (25 VARIETIES) • OLIBAN ESSENTIAL OILS (40 VARIETIES) • OLIBAN BURNING OILS (25 VARIETIES) • OLIBAN STEAM SAUNA MILKS (6 VARIETIES) • OLIBAN DEAD SEA SALTS AND SCRUBS (7 VARIETIES) • DISPOSABLES • SLEEP EZEE SPRAY OLIBAN FRANKINCENSE DIFFUSER Medium Scent Diffuser 1500

For more information, please contact:

OLIBAN TEAM KNOWLEDGE OASIS,MUSCAT | FACILITY BUILDING,LEVEL3, SUITE 303 PO BOX 1166, PC 100 |PHONE: 00968-24155787 |FAX: 00968-24155774 info@oliban.om |WWW.OLIBAN.OM

Technical Details: Input voltage: AC100V-240V Power: 8W. Bottle capacity: 500ml Net Weight: 3.55kg. Oil Consumption: 0.35ml/h- 2.3ml/h.

Coverage: 1500 Cubic meter. Scent Diffuser Tower Input voltage: AC100V-240V Power: 5W Bottle capacity: 150ml Net Weight: 2.1kg Oil Consumption: 0.15ml/h0.8ml/h Coverage: 400 cubic meter Technical Details: Small Scent Diffuser 400 Technical Details: Input voltage: Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 13

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alal beauty is on the verge of going mainstream as the major players move into this emerging category with halalcertified formulations for products and new launches. Tipped for future growth at the in-cosmetics 2015 Marketing Trends presentations, Halal beauty products are starting to be in hot demand, not only from Muslim consumers, but those looking for more rigorous claims than most natural or organic brands can offer.

Rising Muslim populations with increased spending power are responsible for the burgeoning interest in halal products. According to Ildiko Szalai, senior research analyst – beauty and personal care at Euromonitor international*, Asia is becoming the driving force for Halal, most importantly Indonesia, the Philippines and Thailand. “Not complying with halal standards would be a significant trade barrier

for expanding companies looking to reach the widest possible consumer base,”she maintains. Some of biggest personal care players are moving into this space, such as Colgate-Palmolive, who has obtained halal certification for its toothpaste and mouthwash products in Malaysia in 2009.

Japanese-owned Shiseido now has halal certification for its 28 skincare products sold in Malaysia under the Za brand, while Talent Cosmetic became the first Korean beauty company to acquire halal certification for products targeting Malaysian consumers. Meanwhile, Unilever applied to Indonesia’s Muslim Council in November 2015 to have 204 products scrutinized, including key personal care brands such as Dove, Lifebuoy, Sunsilk, Clear and Tresemmé.

Regional Halal beauty brands are also expanding, not only in their home

territory but internationally. For example, Ibab Halal Care, India’s first halal cosmetic brand, launched in 2014. “The brand sells over 80 Halalcertified products largely through standalone stores around India and global online stockists like Amazon and Flipkat,” explains Szalai. Another is Wardah, which has been successful in Indonesia, has a presence in Malaysia and its products are selling through leading European department stores, including Galeries Lafayette. “The best halal opportunities are currently in South East Asia with still plenty of room for growth here, but the Middle East and more developed markets in Africa show potential,” she adds.

found the key to truly resonate with an audience that demands very different rules of engagement. This is due to the highly complex nature of what halal means. “If we take halal beauty simply as cosmetics, that means its ingredients and manufacturing process don’t include pork or alcohol, as well as adhering to Islamic codes of ethics,” explains Le Moullec. “If, however, we are talking about the concept of beauty and beautification that is in line with Muslim beliefs, this is still being defined.” The dichotomy lies in the Islamic belief that enhancing beauty is immodest versus a culture that is highly appreciative of other displays of personal grooming and visual arts.”

However, Stephane Le Moullec, managing director, Butterfly London*, believes the the Halal market is largely untapped as very few global corporate brands have

Young people, in particular, are driving demand for halal beauty products that fit their lifestyles and beliefs, but its appeal goes far beyond religious reasons. “Consum-

Halal Beauty 22 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

ers already buy into labels such as vegan, organic, ethical, no animal cruelty, and halal encompasses many of these principles or values,” maintains Le Moullec, who stresses that halal products will have to deliver what they get from mainstream brands to successfully use halal as a differentiator. “This means not just being certified halal, but having attractive packaging and retail experience so that consumers don’t feel they are compromising.

They will also need to create and develop a strong (Halal) brand that would resonate emotionally with consumers.”

According to Le Moullec, some of the most successful halal brands deliver to the same standard as their non-certified counterparts. Halal booking, the travel app, delivers all the functionality that consumers might experience from TripAdvisor or booking.com, as well as

providing Muslims with the reassurance they need when using it.

Seven Scent is the first UK-based fragrance supplier to achieve halal certification for its entire portfolio following an audit of its manufacturing process by The Halal Trust. The company already had a strong record of creating halal-approved fragrances for PZ Cussons brands in Muslim-majority regions and took this step to open up new opportunities in western market where there is potential for halal-certified personal care and cosmetic products. On the Seven Scent website, Shoeeb Riaz, independent halal consultant and auditor for The Halal Trust, commented: “Modern, brand conscious young Muslims, particularly women, are keen to follow beauty trends and increasingly look for aspirational personal care and cosmetic products which

meet their dual demand for beauty and faith. In the UK, for example, 37% of Muslims fall into the coveted 18-35 year old demographic which is an important consumer audience for brand owners.”

Becoming halal-compliant requires careful consideration. Firstly, brands need to consider if they really want to be compliant or to espouse certain values and philosophies that are consistent with a Muslim lifestyle.

As halal certification is immensely complex, with various certifying bodies in different countries with Muslim populations, brands need to think about the best way to demonstrate their compliance -and whether there is scope for international expansion. “Crucially, they must match or improve what their non-compliant competitors offer, whether that is through a unique tone of voice, beautiful

packaging, a world class retail theatre experience or understanding their religious and cultural beliefs and needs,” states Le Moullec.

The most successful halal beauty brands are local players which have been hugely successful in the Middle East and SE Asia, often founded by women who have resolved to tackle this demand themselves. Le Moullec sees huge scope for more established brands to replicate this success but most are still unsure on how to position themselves and how to engage with consumers.

At this year’s in-cosmetics Marketing Trends presentations, he will examine the real opportunities for global players to connect with consumers whose beliefs and lifestyle demand a new type of brand experience.

Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 23

Pollution: A Business Opportunity for Cosmetics Ingredients

L

eading global cosmetics companies are turning to a full spectrum of promising antipollution ingredients. These range from plant extracts, vitamins or antioxidant complexes to ingredients that simply create a physical barrier between the skin and the pollutants, or those with metal chelating or magnetic properties that

are claimed to prevent the pollutant from interacting with the skin. So far the industry has not been able to provide information to the consumer regarding the level of pollution protection in the same way that sunscreen manufacturers do by using the sun protection factor.

Anti-pollution ingredients on the rise

24 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

Although anti-pollution products are relatively new to the cosmetic market, some of the ingredients have been around for a very long time. Plant extracts, vitamins and antioxidant complexes are among the most popular anti-pollution ingredients on the market, favoured by the growing demand for natural ingredients in cosmetics. A proven successful strategy is to simply reformulate skincare products by adding plant extracts and vitamins to make anti-pollution claims. Olay has reformulated its Total Effect with a greater proportion of vitamin E and Niacinamide and is expanding its Active Botanicals line containing two natural antipollution ingredients, artichoke extract and snow fungus, originally only used in its Chinese products, into Western markets.

However, the simple addition of these ingredients to the products does not always guarantee high antipollution efficacy which makes it difficult for consumers to distinguish

between simple marketing strategies and real anti-pollution products. A good anti-pollution product needs to contain UV protection plus ingredients that are able to hydrate the skin, strengthen the natural skin barrier, create a film barrier and have the right antioxidants in the required concentration and form to work against free radicals.

However, the latest innovation is the use of ingredients with advanced anti-pollution properties, such as Pollushield, supplied by Lipotec, which combines a polymer with metal chelating properties to prevent the interaction of toxic metals with the skin, EPS WHITE, developed by CoDIF, which is a probiotic-derived ingredient that reduces pollution-induced inflammation, and AquatideTripleShield, provided by Incospharm, with strong autophagy inducing activity to help detoxify skin cells. New launches are on the horizon, for instance, the biotech

company Greentech will launch in April 2017 a biological antipollution ingredient that activates the skin endogenous defence mechanisms and the detoxification pathways.

cleansers are still the most likely categories to carry antipollution ingredients, hair and sun care products are gaining momentum, especially in China and India.

the greatest growth potential for vitamins and plant extracts in antiagers, shampoos and facial moisturizers in the 2015-2020 forecast period.

Markets for antipollution ingredients

China offers the greatest opportunities for anti-pollution ingredients in Asia-Pacific, followed by India and Pakistan. Facial masks, a key beauty product for most Chinese women, are expected to drive the growth in demand for plant extracts in Asia Pacific over the 2015-2020 forecast period, while other products, such as facial moisturisers, shampoos, facial cleansers and sun protection, will also show opportunities for plant extracts. Demand for vitamins in China is expected to grow in shampoos, sun protection and facial moisturiser formulations. In India, shampoos and facial moisturisers are expected to lead the growth in demand for plant extracts, while demand for vitamins is expected to grow in shampoos in the next five years. Pakistan shows

Consumers demand proof

Opportunities for new anti-pollution products differ between East and West. In the most polluted Eastern countries, such as China, demand for specific, single-purpose antipollution products, such as face masks containing plant extracts is expected, while in Western countries consumers often use fewer beauty products and demand for multifunctional products with UV and anti-pollution claims will be on the rise. Plant extracts and vitamins are the ingredients with the greatest growth potential, but demand for other antioxidant ingredients, such as niacinamide and ascorbic acid, is also expected to grow. Although facial skincare products such as moisturisers, masks, anti-agers and

Although cosmetic companies have found their own ways to proof their anti-pollution claims in an attempt to gain credibility among consumers, the reality is that there is no standardised protocol to back up these claims. Manufacturers can produce and market anti-pollution products with limited scientific evidence based on a wide variety of anti-pollution tests that vary from one company to another. More research to understand the effects of pollution on skin over time as well as the development of standardised tests, similar to those in place for the SPF values, are required to validate and quantify the product efficacy.

The industry needs to establish a

minimum number of reliable parameters to be considered as anti-pollution markers to be tested.

Some of the parameters that are under the radar are pH, levels of vitamin E, lactic acid, elastin, collagen and skin lipids such as triglycerides, free fatty acids, squalene, wax esters and cholesterol, which are believed to decrease with pollution, as well as other parameters such as the fixation of microparticles and heavy metals on skin and hair, the sebum secretion rate, and the levels of glycosylation end products, malondialdehyde, squalene monohydroperoxide, oxidized proteins, interleukin IL1a and adenosine triphosphate, which are likely to increase with pollution.

The development of a standard protocol to assess the efficacy of these products will allow consumers to have a better understanding about which products offer the best environmental protection.

Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 25

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FACIAL EXFOLIATION GAINS MORE TRACTION IN THE EAST

F

acial exfoliation is quickly becoming a daily skincare practice in South Korea, and formats such as boosters, serums and creams are adopting exfoliating claims

multifunctional exfoliants.

Gentler exfoliants such as toners, serums and overnight creams present a lucrative opportunity that meet consumers’ needs and will increase usage frequency.

natural ingredients, sensory experiences, easy applicators and gender- or age-based segmentation. Facial exfoliation is an essential part of the daily routine for most South Korean women:

Gentler daily exfoliants take over traditional scrubs and peels:

PHA ingredients look set to follow the growth of AHA and BHA, and this highlights the importance of lessening irritation.

K-beauty is well known for its lengthy, meticulous skincare rituals, which often incorporate up to 10 steps. Korean skincare innovation is driven by women’s desire to achieve a so-called ‘chok-chok’ complexion – plump and moisturised. Exfoliation is regarded as an essential step towards ‘chok-

Exfoliating dead skin cells is essential to achieving a glowing, wellmoisturised, ‘K-beauty’ look, and this is driving brands to develop easy-to-use, lower irritation and

In addition to their increasing launch frequency, exfoliants show potential as a specialised at-home treatment.

Brands should consider utilising

28 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

chok’, with as many as threequarters of Korean females in their 20s and 30s regularly using facial peels and 88% of these using athome treatments.

Exfoliants like scrubs and peels remain the most popular format but, despite their positive results and inclusion of moisturising functionality, consumers still express some concern about irritation, convenience and time. These unmet needs could therefore drive the development of new exfoliants designed for daily use.

Exfoliation: from weekly scrub to daily skincare essential The growing launch frequency of daily, leave-in format exfoliants is based on the popularity of chemical ingredients such as AHA, BHA and the newer PHA (poly hydroxy acids), which excel at removing dead skin cells without the need for scrubbing.

South Korean derma-cosmetic brand CNP’s Invisible Peeling Booster is a hero product which has taken the market by storm since its release in late 2014. Leave-in daily exfoliators are not a new concept, as evidenced by Clinique’s ‘3 step’, but local launches in South Korea, which are affordably priced and have a variety of claims, have boosted interest. Such products are evolving to embrace a wide

variety of beauty-centric claims including moisturising, whitening, anti-ageing, wrinkle reduction and hypoallergenic.

Exfoliants can be incorporated into different skincare steps Brands looking to follow CNP Invisible Peeling Booster’s lead should explore opportunities in other skincare categories outside of the ‘booster’ format.

IOPE launched its peeling essence, which contains three acid ingredients and is ideal for overnight use, while Espoir’s lightening toner works to smoothe skin before the application of make-up. Overnight creams and sleeping packs – a growing category in Asia – present opportunities for synergy with peels. Global brand Bioderma is

tapping into this trend by promoting its sebum serum as a sleeping pack.

Following the success of AHA and BHA ingredients, PHA is seen as a gentler, lower-irritation exfoliant, and will thus be taking the spotlight amongst 2016’s new product launches.

Convenience and safety are essential to driving innovation While the facial scrub category shifts into daily skincare launches, physical exfoliation has been seeking a new format which enhances its efficacy and minimises irritation. Special cotton swabs and pads that are soaked with an exfoliating, beautyfunctional formula can offer the dual effect of both physical and chemical exfoliation. Sheets which mimic mud or rubber paste masks also claim to exfoliate and unclog pores.

Products like these will help to meet consumer need for convenient athome treatments. Multi-functional daily exfoliants and exfoliationfocused treatments are the two main directions in which peeling products are evolving, and convenience and safety will be pivotal in driving further innovation.

This evolution could lead to an increase in natural ingredients, easy application formats, and sensory experience. The relatively unexplored areas of age- and genderbased segmentation are also key avenues for product development.

Jane Jang will be presenting on trends in the South Korean beauty markets in-cosmetics London, on the 4th April at 12.15am in the Marketing Trends Theatre. You can also visit Mintel on Stand JJ70 where they will be hosting live product demonstrations.

Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 29

The New

Real Last summer, some older readers might have been puzzled to see groups of millennials shuffling around parks, city streets and riverbanks, while glued to their phones. It quickly became apparent that no, this was not a terrifying realisation of Stephen King’s Cell – rather it was the hugely successful augmented reality mobile game Pokémon Go. While the initial hype surrounding the game has died down, the Pokémon Go phenomenon came with a resounding message: augmented reality can equal big bucks. The same is true for beauty brands. L’Oréal leads the way with its famous Makeup Genius app, using virtual reality to monitor each user’s unique facial features; it

allows virtual make-up to be applied in real time to their face. Coty’s Rimmel app, meanwhile, has been called the ‘Shazam for make-up’, because it uses real time tracking to detect make-up on the person using it and colour-match it with Rimmel’s cosmetics. The user can then steal the look by seeing it on herself with her camera. Additionally, Maybelline has a virtual nail bar, which allows consumers to trial hundreds of nail colours instantaneously. And Japan’s Shiseido, in order to drum up interest in its Rouge Rouge Kiss Me lipstick line, launched a tie-in app that enables two people to kiss through their phones, leaving lipstick marks as ‘kiss monsters’ that appear on the

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screen.

Even retailers are getting in on the act. Online beauty store Feelunique unveiled a make-up app in September 2016 that allows consumers to virtually try on products in different shades across brands. It lets the user ‘try on’ 600 products across 10 brands spanning lipstick, lip gloss, eyeliner, eyeshadow and blusher, with products from retail partner brands including bareminerals, Benefit, Bourjois, Estée Lauder, Guerlain, Lancôme, Rimmel, Urban Decay, YSL and Fleur de Force.

Mirror technology is gaining ground too. Laneige, an AmorePacific brand, for example, has a Beauty Mirror that gives the user the impression they are actually applying make-up. They can then save and share the results on social media. Brands and retailers, however, should view augmented reality as more than a cool gimmick – the virtual shade

must be true to life and a seamless process should be in place whereby the user can purchase that product while it is still fresh in their mind.

The ability for users to share looks and results obtained via augmented reality across social media platforms is also a beneficial marketing tool for brands and retailers. Will a consumer like or share your lipstick ad?

Possibly. Will the same consumer post a pic of them wearing your lipstick IRL? Highly likely, but, unless they’re a beauty blogger, would probably do so without namechecking your product. But, would a consumer share an image of them trialling a shade using this novel technology? Ultimately, if beauty brands take the correct approach to monetising augmented reality and to integrating it into their social media marketing strategy, augmented reality could prove a great way to capture not just Pokémon, but consumers too.

www.tana-cosmetics.de | info@tana-cosmetics.de

8 on the radar

Cosmetology trends

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o achieve success in the cosmetics industry, it is essential to know the raw materials that are available, their functions and how to combine them properly in order to build quality projects. But much more than knowing how to formulate a product, a good interaction needs to be built between the formulation and the consumer, giving them an image or a concept that is aligned with their lifestyle and their way of thinking so that they identify with the product. In a world that is so diverse and with constantly changing behaviour, it is crucial to be aware of tastes and trends so that all the effort employed in designing a cosmetic is transformed into the launch of a prominent product. The following are some of the current trends that are probably going to continue over the next few years

Trend 1: Sustainability Consumers are increasingly aware of the importance of environmental preservation. In this sense, products with appeals that are related to saving resources and to the nondisposal of waste that is aggressive to the environment are gaining value.

One environmental issue in particular deserves even greater attention: the water shortage. As consumption increases more than supply and consumers are warned about this problem, cosmetic brands will tend to change the way their products are made and the amount of water they use in their formulations. In a survey conducted by Mintel, it was reported that one-third of all consumers would pay more for equipment that would lead to water

and energy savings in the UK. So if consumers reduce the use of these items in their day-to-day life, they will also expect the brands they use to do the same. This same survey also assesses that younger people will probably feel attracted to this type of product. A second recent survey

by Mintel shows that 39% of all millennials prefer sustainable brands.

[1, 2] Another point that has been widely debated is the use of microspheres in cosmetic products.

Microspheres are spherical microparticles made of plastic, such as polypropylene, polystyrene and others of petrochemical origin, which are placed in some cosmetic and personal hygiene products as an abrasive. It just so happens that because microspheres are very small they are not filtered out by sewage treatment systems and are discarded in our oceans where they have a negative impact on the ecosystems of these places. For this reason, the tendency is that the use of microspheres will probably be banned by the end of 2017. Within the sustainability tendency, organic cosmetics will also continue gaining more and more ground.

Trend 2: Packaging Despite the fact that the trends for cosmetic packaging of the future are partly linked to sustainability, this topic deserves its own attention.

Market research carried out by Technavio shows that with the rise of organic cosmetics and urbanization, the tendency is that there will be an increase in the demand for smaller, sustainable packaging, with units that are easy to use, load and discard. With regard to being

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sustainable, an increasing awareness of environmental issues means that the demand for recyclable packaging made from plastics or resins that are derived from renewable sources will increase, encouraging a reduction to a minimum in the use of non-biodegradable materials.

The manufacturers of eco-friendly products are looking for packaging that alludes to the concept in order to use it as promoters of their brands and of “natural” or “organic” product lines. The decrease in size, on the other hand, is linked to the need for beauty and personal

hygiene items for travel: so lightweight packages that are leakproof and resistant to climate change are required. On the other hand, and contrary to the decrease in size, Brazilians will tend to look for bigger packaging given the economic recession. With the rise in

the unemployment rate and the decline in purchasing power, consumers will prefer products that last longer and need to be purchased less frequently. This is what Mintel’s 2015 report says about this subject: larger packaging will be more interesting because the

Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 35

same unit can be used various times, for longer and split with other members of the family. This is an opposite trend to that seen in the luxury segment, where packaging is smaller and more sophisticated.

Even so, the trend of large packaging is trying to address the yearning for sustainability: after all, a discarded large glass bottle pollutes less than the disposal of several small glass bottles. Still on the question of packaging, an interesting idea has recently been brought from Europe to Brazil: the fractioned sale of perfumes. With the rise in the value of the US dollar, Portuguese man, Patricio Gonçalves, the director of Ducha, saw the opportunity to start selling perfume in bulk, in 4 different size packages. This is an interesting strategy, seeing that 85% of the fragrances sold in Brazil come from international perfume houses.

Trend 3: DIY (Do it yourself) Still thinking about sustainability and a more natural lifestyle, some consumers will prefer to become more involved with the creative process of the cosmetics they use.

This is how they will themselves guarantee that the products they are using are in fact composed of what they expect them to be. Products that require easy and handcrafted processes, so that the consumer can make them at home, are the trend. They may be made available in the form of kits, as inspired by the food industry.

Trend 4: Neurocosmetics Neurocosmetics are nothing new.

The first time this term appeared officially was in 2007 at the Annual Meeting of the North American Society of Cosmetic Chemists. A neurocosmetic is a product whose active ingredients target the nerve endings of the skin, which are sensitive to heat, cold, pain, pruritus, and pressure. Since then, a number of active ingredients, such as synthetic biomimetic peptides that

are capable of performing neuromodulatory actions, have been developed. The combination between well-being and the sensations aroused by neurocosmetics attracts consumers who are looking to balance out their hectic day-to-day lives. The sensation of well-being may also be sought by those consumers who are sensitive to certain components in the formula and seek alternatives that do not cause skin irritation or inflammation. [8] According to Cosmetics Design, neurocosmetics tend to be found more easily in the class of anti-aging products, which are capable of producing a noticeable feeling of a smoother, more radiant, healthier, and less wrinkled skin.

Trend 5: Pro–aging products Contrary to the previous trend, the first pro-aging products are beginning to emerge. This is a trend linked to women’s liberation, in a proposal in which women get rid of the imposition of needing to look perfect all the time and the pressure of always appearing young, regardless of the stage of life they are in. As a result a new category of consumers has appeared: the silver category. Women in the silver category are over 50 years old and want to look healthy at the age they are. In this sense, cosmetics for the face correct the colour and promote hydration, but do not cover wrinkles or lead to a ‘facelifting’ effect. In the hair segment, the idea is the same: do not mask, but soften the hair and give it back its shine. This is a trend that is aligned with the concept of a more natural appearance, sometimes even without makeup. To extract the greatest possible potential from this segment, formulators should be aware of how people in the silver category would like to look.

Trend 6: Seasonality Still on the question of well-being,

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some consumers worry about the action of climate change on the skin and hair. So winter-related products, providing greater protection and hydration for dry skin in cold weather, are the trend. In the future, products aimed at cold and humid climates and at autumn climate change are coming. [10] Changes in the seasons throughout the year also have an influence on the emotions. There will be a demand for cosmetic innovations linked to winter depression and summer optimism. In particular, the fragrance industry will find opportunities in this tendency: according to Mintel’s survey, 67% of US

fragrance users are interested in aromas that have an influence on mood and 23% of them would pay more for a product with such aromas.

effects of beauty products on the skin and hair. As a result, cosmetics will undergo increased pressure to demonstrate their effectiveness.

Trend 7: High-tech cosmetology Consumers currently have at their disposal products and devices for monitoring health and well-being. Augmented reality is becoming increasingly familiar, and a possible next step for cosmetology is the use of applications, such as virtual mirrors and the real-time visualization of the

Trend 8: Market niches Finally, grouping consumers merely by generation or by ethnicity has currently become obsolete. It is necessary to scale down and develop formulations according to the tastes and needs of specific groups, providing solutions for different microeconomic environments.

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Clariant to open Global Competence Center Haircare in Brazil Strengthens presence in world's fastest growing hair care market New center will lead global innovation projects in close cooperation with local experts & partners Featuring at in-cosmetics Latin

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own product development needs and the changing hair care trends of consumers.

Christian Vang, Head of Business Unit Industrial & Consumer Specialties (BU ICS) at Clariant, comments: “Clariant’s first global Competence Center Haircare is an exciting step to really strengthen our

lariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, has chosen Brazil for its first-ever global Competence Center Haircare (gCCH), set to open in the first quarter of 2017. Located in Santo Amaro in Sao Paulo, the new gCCH will put Clariant’s hair care experts at the heart of the fastest growing hair care market globally and closer to the large customers in the region.

Currently, 20% of global growth in hair care comes from Brazil. The market is active with high capital spending on hair care products and women having on average eight hair care products in daily use. Brazil stands out for its widespread adoption of hair treatments, with formats such as dry shampoo and hair oil taking hold in the market despite their relatively high price.

Brazil also hosts some of the leading research institutes in hair care.

Clariant’s new gCCH will house a team of Clariant hair care professionals, application and formulation labs, and meeting space. The 240sqm premises will provide the in-house capabilities and cutting-edge technical expertise for close cooperation with external experts and a network of local and global partners, universities and institutes.

The gCCH will be a hub for leading global innovation projects that can help formulators address both their 38 | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | Beauty & Fashion World

presence in the global hair care community and to establish in-depth understanding of the hair care market and trends in Latin America and globally.

Brazil is a vibrant place to be and we are looking forward to extending the network we have already established with local partners, universitites and institutes, so that we can power our hair care innovation to meet the trends and needs of customers and consumers both here and around the world.”

Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 39

Chanel launches the first cream with camellia micro-droplets

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ith the creation of Hydra Beauty Micro Crème, the first cream based on camellia micro-droplets, Chanel Research has taken a new step in the area of microfluidics for cosmetics.

With a unique texture and aesthetic, the cream moisturises and protects the skin thanks to two exclusive camellia extracts.

Following the launch of the Hydra Beauty Micro Serum in 2015, and Hydra Beauty Micro Gel Yeux in 2016, the launch of the Hydra Beauty Micro Crème marks a new step in microfluidics innovation by Chanel Research.

Technical challenges “This development met many formulation and manufacturing challenges. Adapting the microdoplets technology from a liquid to a creamy texture, proved very difficult. Once again, technological limits have been pushed further back,” Christian Mahé, General Manager of Chanel Research Beauty and Innovation, told.

For this new development, Chanel

Research teams have partnered with the French start-up Capsum.

Capsum offered its expertise in microfluidics, Chanel its formulation know-how and its industrial expertise The first challenge: producing a microfluidic cream for packaging in jars. Since the droplets are delicate and evanescent, their resistance has been enhanced in comparison with serums in airless packaging, without losing their unique sensorial profile.

The result: droplets do not burst when they are scooped out of the jar but only when the cream is applied to the face. The joint Chanel and Capsum team has managed to create gel droplets that are both evanescent and high-resistance, but also visible to the naked eye in a cream.

The second challenge: producing a smooth texture through the microfluidic process. Hydra Beauty Micro Crème combines visible and invisible droplets stabilized by “molecular velcro tapes” for remarkable application comfort. The joint Chanel and Capsum team has managed to integrate a sensory

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cascade in this cream, where the fresh feeling of water is followed by the richness of the oil.

polymers interacting together in the manner of “molecular velcro tapes” to form an evanescent membrane.

The third challenge: blending delicate and evanescent droplets into the cream. To achieve this, a new manufacturing process had to be devised to blend the droplets into the cream without splitting them while ensuring homogenous distribution. Machines and production lines were thus tailor designed to manufacture Hydra Beauty Micro Crème.

The result: droplets in which a new high value-added fat-soluble active ingredient is protected until application. These perfectly calibrated and stable droplets burst instantly upon application with outstanding moisturizing efficiency for the skin. As they burst on the skin without leaving any residue, these droplets create an unparalleled sensory experience unmatched in traditional emulsions, as well as a new aesthetic.

A new form of emulsion Microfluidics make it possible to manipulate fluids with high accuracy at a micrometric scale. At this scale, capillary forces prevail over gravity.

Thanks to a system where the flow is controlled and high, it is possible to shape droplets one by one and control their size.

This accurate calibration produces an emulsion whose structuration is more orderly than with conventional technologies. Droplet stability is secured by a complex coacervation process which combines two

“This is an example of successful co-development between Chanel and a start-up,” states Christian Mahé. “This microfluidics innovation platform is capable of broadening the scope of possibilities (new technologies, new visuals, new textures…) to develop tomorrow’s cosmetics”.

A new innovation is already expected for 2018.

WELCOME TO THE NEW ERA OF HAIRCARE AND SKINCARE.

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Clariant steps up for beauty at in-cosmetics Global innovation in Personal Care at incosmetics Global 2017, as it takes the wraps off its creative, steppedup support for formulators and brand owners at Booth JJ10.

New concepts, trend directions and insights, formulation ideas, and product launches will be central to Clariant's engaging showcase. Plus, its new dedicated expert support for active ingredients' customers will also make its debut at the show. New trends and inspirational formulations revealed in BeautyForward®: the first opportunity to dive into the four new trends impacting Personal Care: Custom, Origin, Revive and Balance. Focusing on helping customers to be one step ahead, BeautyForward is a novel platform offering market insights to stimulate new ideas for formulations, creative applications, product design and branding. It also sets the stage for future product launches by Clariant. News from BeautyForward® trends, nature-inspired Plantasens™, GlucoTain® sugar surfactants Introduction of new business for Active Ingredients

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lariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, is all set to drive imaginations and

Unveiling the new Active Ingredients business: the new startup will provide dedicated, expert support for the highly-specialized needs of the Personal Care industry and focus on nature-inspired products. Headquartered in Toulouse, France, Clariant has put in place a newly established team of experts and state-of-the-art facilities.

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The new unit represents a further proactive step in Clariant's on-going commitment to the advancement of this industry. Reflecting the group's ambitions to be a trend setter in this market the team will be introducing the first solution for Indoor Pollution control: Eosidin™. New formulation guide GlucoTain®: proving that bubbles are no longer just for decoration but can now be functional too, Clariant introduces an extensive selection of formulations for different body parts based on its five GlucoTain innovative sugar surfactant solutions.

Examples include a luxurious foam essence facial cleanser, and a deep mild liquid hand soap. New nature-inspired haircare formulation concept: more than ¼ of the world's population is affected by weak damaged and thinning hair.

At in-cosmetics Global, Clariant reveals how Plantasens™ Crambisol™ can address these consumer concerns. Crystal Clear by Plantasens showcases Clariant's new formulation concepts that create an alliance between two normally opposing natures, strengthened through unique transparency.

Clariant will stretch its innovationdriving focus at in-cosmetics Global beyond its booth to sponsorship of the Innovation Theater and the topics of its Lecture Series participation.

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Clariant unveils new dedicated Active Ingredients Unit for Personal Care Clariant start-up will support specialized market segment needs Headquarters & laboratories in Toulouse, France Focus on nature-inspired active ingredients

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lariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, announces the formation of a new Active Ingredients Unit to provide dedicated, expert support for the highly-specialized needs of the Personal Care industry.

Clariant’s entry into the world of active ingredients expands its classical portfolio of specialty formulation ingredients for skin care, hair care and body care applications.

Clariant Active Ingredients opened its new facilities on the Sanofi BioParc in Toulouse, France on January 1, 2017. The location is home to a dedicated team with vast experience in the field of active ingredients, with further global expansion planned for 2017.

Toulouse was chosen in particular because of the area’s active focus on biotechnology and proximity to potential development partners and players in the cosmetics industry.

The team’s priorities will be to extend Clariant’s existing portfolio of naturally-sourced products from BioSpectrum and Beraca with the future development of novel nature-

inspired active ingredients.

It has at its disposal pharmaceutical industry-standard laboratories for skin biology studies and testing, and biochemical laboratories where the focus will be on synthesizing unique outperforming molecules for unmet consumers’ needs.

Ernesto Horikoshi, Global Head of Active Ingredients, comments: "We are committed to making our company a top player in the field of Active Ingredients. Clariant already possesses key elements vital to supporting this market, such as trusted partnerships with key players in this industry, unique access to natural cosmetic ingredients and strong experience in formulating products for personal care. The newly established expert team and state-of-the-art facilities add the vital missing ingredients to steer this business successfully.”

Christian Vang, Global Head of Business Unit Industrial & Consumer Specialties (BU ICS) at Clariant, adds: “With the Active Ingredients Unit, Clariant now has a flexible start-up capable of rapidly launching active ingredient innovations to meet the highly-specialized product development needs of Personal Care brands, formulators and end consumers. It represents a further proactive step in our on-going commitment to the advancement of this industry and to connecting our global footprint to local needs”.

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Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 45

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Following the path of wearable and mobile technology

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he general path of technology suggests that electronic devices gradually get smaller and more powerful and this, over time, has got us to the point that ‘wearable’ tech is no longer the stuff of sci-fi and comics. Currently much of the talk about wearable tech has

focused on fitness concepts, but the personal care industry also has a great deal of potential in this field.

Naturally, the proximity of wearable tech to the skin means that data can potentially be fed directly from the skin to the device, opening up a whole world of possibilities.

Consumers have never been more in tune with their physiology and the knowledge on personal care ingredients is also growing. The blossoming of technology along with a consumer desire for skin specific products can now lead to truly targeted, tailored products that

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consumers can use based on real time information. This real time data could be particularly beneficial in sun care applications, where minutes can make the difference in preventing overexposure.

Instant information is only one way in which modern mobile technology can assist personal care consumers.

Mobile phones, with their high resolution cameras and PC-rivalling processing power, can be used to track the progress of wrinkles over a defined period, enabling a helpful visualisation of areas that need particular attention. Other Apps

such as L’Oreal’s Color Genius allows people to enter the colour of their outfit, time of day and location to suggest a lip, eye and nail colour that matches, blends or clashes with the users clothes, as well as taking a photo of their hand to try out different varnish colours.

We are just at the beginning of the journey where consumer technology and the personal care industry combine to offer new services and more tailored products to people. It will be fascinating to see where it takes us in the near and distant future.

Blurring boundaries between beauty, food, and drink

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any of today’s consumers are moving towards more holistic approaches to beauty as the achievement of appearance-related goals becomes attached to wider concerns over personal health and overall wellbeing. The trends emerging from today’s “wellness revolution” are no longer confined to food and drink, creating opportunities for inspired innovation in beauty and personal care.

Similarly, in the continued quest for natural among today’s consumers, familiarity with ingredients found within food and drink and which are already associated with being “good for you” can be used to appeal in the beauty and grooming space.

Consumer trends within food and drink are heavily influencing the direction of the wellbeing concept in beauty, with the perception that an ingredient or approach that is good for health on the inside must do the same on the outside. This is evident in that over half (56%) of consumers globally are concerned about the impact of diet on their health and appearance (GlobalData’s 2016 consumer research).

The lines are blurring between health and beauty as consumers seek to achieve optimum wellness both inside and out. Social media platforms such as Instagram have contributed to driving this trend forward as users encapsulate the concept of wellbeing into a complete lifestyle, from the foods they eat and the exercise they do, to the clothes and beauty products they wear. The concept of “eating

clean” is now synonymous with healthy lifestyles and while a central theme is eating naturally, it is interpreted differently depending on individual preferences. Some examples include eating a diet free from processed foods, raw diets, incorporating nutrient dense ingredients such as superfoods, excluding certain foods such as meat and gluten, and even juicing.

This therefore creates important opportunities for beauty and personal care brands to capitalize on this trend through inspiring their products with similar principles in order to align their brand with health-conscious consumers and their “clean” lifestyles. Some examples of products which have capitalized on this trend include Sephora’s Avocado face mask which has taken advantage of the surge in popularity of avocados as a health food, being rich in monounsaturated fats and other nutrients. Another is SkinFood’s Lettuce and Cucumber line from South Korea which features lettuce extract, cucumber extract, and cucumber water as the main actives to hydrate skin. The range includes a toner, emulsion, and essence which are packaged in a similar style to juices within the beverages space to enhance the naturally beneficial credentials of their products This presentation will take an indepth look at the consumer motivations driving this trend forward, exploring how brands can effectively innovate to harness this trend, as well as its future outlook and evolution within the industry.

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Customisation and cosmetics the changing game of make-up

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ustomisation is big business in most industries. The idea of a tailor-made product created to a specific brief couldn’t be more appealing. Take the automotive sector for example.

When buying a new car, it has long been possible to have it made to an exact specification. The same – but on a slightly different price scale – can also be said of the fashion industry.

Take Nike iD for example. With this service, it is possible to choose the basic shoe and then customise it with a variety of colours, exclusive fade options, name or even a personal message. To some degree, this has always been possible in the fashion sector but not without paying a hefty price tag to have something custom made privately.

However, in some sectors the concept of customisation has only recently taken off. There has been talk of it for some time in the cosmetics industry – indeed Prescriptives launched one of the first custom-blended make up ranges for women in the late 70s – but it was eventually pulled from the shelves, perhaps at a time when the industry was all about the ‘one size fits all’ alphabet cream approach.

Years later and customised cosmetics are back, taking the personal care market by storm.

But what are consumers really looking for? The idea of having something personalised as opposed to created for the mass market is certainly part of the appeal.

And when it comes to cosmetics and personal care, there can’t

possibly be an all-encompassing approach that suits everyone perfectly. Every fibre of every being is different so if there is the option of having something constructed on an individual basis, then why wouldn’t it take off?

In this sector customisation is all about creating products which are personalised and address different people’s varying needs, whether this be the skincare results or the appearance of the colour.

Naturally, the first segments of the market to really embrace the concept of customisation are colour cosmetics and skincare. Consumers are now able to select products boasting smart packaging which can be adapted to fit specific skin tones.

Some brands sell their colour products with materials that the consumer can then use to adjust the shade e.g. Max Factor’s colour adapt foundation. In addition, moisturisers with ‘dial-up’ features which mean the product can be made stronger or weaker depending on a customers’ need are now de rigeur in many European countries.

Taking this a step further, some brands have even set up pop-up bars offering customers the opportunity to select their base product and then personalise the aroma or remaining product features.

While customisation is still in the relatively early stages in Europe, it is a well-established and popular concept in Korea. In September last year, one of Korea’s leading makeup manufacturers Amore Pacific launched its customised cosmetics

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service. The brand introduced a made-to-order lipstick service at one of its Seoul stores, and the promotion was so successful that every slot was booked in the two weeks leading up to its launch. Colour cosmetic customisation in Korea is now firmly established and it is expected that this will quickly spread around the globe. However, personalised skin care products are expected to take longer to catch on in the rest of the world.

Haircare is one segment that has not yet embraced customisation, however,

early signs are that the concept will break ground in this area in the future.

The concept of customisation is not without its challenges. One of the main issues that companies need to overcome is surrounding logistics and product quantities. Personal care actives come in large quantities, so manufacturers need to create certain batch sizes to economise on the scale of raw materials they order. So too with colour – colour is not easy to create or match so the consumer playing with colour needs a good base product to begin with and guidance on customisation. Once these challenges are overcome by a few leaders in the industry, it will become much more widespread.

call for customisation in exciting new ways. In particular, we’ll see serum concentrates and fragrances perform much better in this area. It’s an exciting year ahead.

Predictions for 2017 I believe we’ll see ground-breaking advancements in this area this year.

Companies will come up with some innovative approaches to answer the

Beauty & Fashion World | May-June 2017 | BWME Special | 53

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