GREENLAND
CONTENT 3 •WHAT TO BRING • SAMPLE PACKING LIST • RECOMMENDED READING • ARCTIC VISITOR GUIDELINES •PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS 4 OVERVIEW: WEST GREENLAND ITINERARY TRAVEL TIPS 12 13 15 19 2 22
GREENLANDEXPLORING
In the glory of Greenland’s brief summer, land and sea are vibrantly alive. Migrating whales can be spotted feeding in these productive waters. Sea birds fill the air. Caribou and muskoxen roam the tundra, blooming with moss and saxifrage. Navigating this remote, wild region with grace and power, ASTERIA is the launchpad for next level experiences.
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Untrammeled. Epic in scale. Greenland is the largest island on Earth. The rocky coastline, if stretched out like a string, would measure 24,430 miles (39,330 kilometers), approximately the circumference of Earth at the Equator. Here hardy Inuit communities perch on the edge of the massive Greenland ice cap. Pack ice and bergs, calved from the monumental Ilulissat Glacier, jostle in the waterways. Ancient bedrock some 3.8 billion years old broods over the waters. And beckoning fjords fringe Greenland’s western coast, as inviting to explorer yachting as any geography on the planet.
ITINERARY
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GREENLAND DETAILAREAOF ILULISSATKANGERLUSSUAQ DISKO ISLAND KANGERLUSSUAQ SISIMIUT FROM NORTH AMERICA QEQERTARSUAQ
GREENLANDWESTEXPLORING
The plan includes having a scenic picnic and looking for wildlife, and some time in town. In the evening, gather with your Expedition Leader for introductions, to go over the itinerary and answer any questions regarding the journey ahead.
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Kangerlussuaq
As ASTERIA sails into the ice-strewn waters of Western Greenland, the uncertain conditions dictate a flexible itinerary. Days spent exploring the pack ice, islands, channels, and wild coasts at a pace set by the ice conditions and weather. This is the approximate itinerary that may be followed if conditions permit:
Arrive in Greenland at the international airport at Kangerlussuaq (Søndre Strømfjord). This is the main air hub in Greenland and the only airport in this part of the country suitable for jet aircraft. Kangerlussuaq, meaning “big fjord”, lies at the head of a 170 km fjord of the same name. The Arctic Circle crosses the fjord at its halfway point, and the Greenland Icecap lies just inland. As well as its interesting history, the Kangerlussuaq area is also home to terrestrial fauna, including muskoxen, caribou, and gyrfalcons. Upon landing in Kangerlussuaq a short (10km) transfer leads to the small port of Camp Lloyd at the head of the fjord, where your yacht awaits.
Greenland's second largest town (after Nuuk) is a bustling fishing port. This is a rich artistic community where old ways stand proudly alongside new. Sisimiut boasts a great (small) museum and gift shops. A walk/hike through town, eastward, will take us to a view of the wilderness that is on the doorstep of every community and town in Greenland. The walk is on a mix of paved road, dirt road and track and could last an hour or two. The famous Arctic Circle Trail finishes in Sisimiut after starting in Kangerlussuaq. An accompaniment to such a walk will be the sight and sound of many Greenland sled dogs. Kayak racks stand proudly alongside taxi ranks! Fascinating town.
SISIMIUT
Laying practically on the Arctic Circle, this picturesque island village is an ideal introduction to rural Greenland. This is a very small community (less than 100 inhabitants). with beautiful surrounding scenery and good hiking opportunities. The idea behind the itinerary of this trip was to provide as much variety as possible. Itilleq is more of a traditional small Greenlandic community where hunting and fishing still defines daily life. That being the case, it is not uncommon to see catch (such as seal, caribou and whale) around the community. The sea and land is the communities grocery store.
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ITILLEQ
The plan is to have two full days in Ilulissat and the surrounding area. The nearby ice fiord area is a UNESCO world heritage site. A brand-new Ice Fiord Visitors Centre is now open - a must see. The walk from the harbour area (fascinating by itself!) to the actual ice fiord takes about half an hour on a mix of paved roads and wooden board walks. Rarely does it take half an hour as there are many distractingly interesting sights and sounds along the way. There are a number of marked walking/hiking trails around the ice fiord area. Town has a great museum, shops and stores. Ilulissat is Greenland's most tourist-friendly town. People from all over the world visit to experience not only the character and personality of the town but the incredible Ice Fiord which is only a couple of kilometres to the south of town. A trip by plane is planned to see and experience the actual calving face of the glacier - an experience like no other. There is (as in many Greenland towns) a "country food" store that sells a variety of country food such as seal, whale, fish and caribou.
ILULISSAT AND ENVIRONS
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Kangaatsiaq isn interesting community (around 550 inhabitants) larger than Itilleq but smaller than both Sisimiut and Ilulissat. Early mornings in the communities tend to be quieter. Given the perpetual daylight at the time we'll be there, there tends to be more going on later in the day. Time should be taken to take in the daily life of such communities and discussions of how things are changing will take place.
KANGAATSIAQ & SOUTHERN DISKO BAY
ISLANDS
Spend the day exploring the northeastern corner of Disko Bay around Ata Sound and the Eqip Sermia Glacier, a large and active tidewater glacier producing many small icebergs from its frequent calvings. Eqip Sermia has an active face approximately 3.5 km wide. A hike up its southern lateral moraine may provide views of its heavily fractured surface. Here amongst the network of protected fjords there are many options for tender cruising, kayaking and hiking.
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ATA SUND & EQIP SERMIA
Here too is the possibility for some fishing. There is no town here but a small collection of buildings. Hike over some grassy tundra towards a nearby lake. A small lodge has been built facing the glacier. Some hiking may be had across the lateral moraine to the south of the glacier and access to the actual ice cap may be possible.
This area is rich in both culture and history. Again, experiencing some of the smaller communities in Greenland. Ice (from nearby glaciers) may play a part in our experience in this area. Many households still rely on ice from the glaciers for fresh water. Zodiac cruising amongst the ice and icebergs will be a highlight.
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SARQAQ & QULISSAT
Today under the shadow of the stunning Nuusuaq Peninsula visit the tiny village of Sarqaq laying at exactly 70˚N. Cross the Sullorsuaq Strait to Quilissat, the town “that wouldn’t die”. Quilissat was the first industrial township in Greenland, now abandoned. The locals - once forcefully relocated - return occasionally during the summer to reminisce over the lost paradise that was once theirs.
Cross the Arctic Circle twice overnight and travel up the magnificent Søndre Strømfjord to arrive at the international airport for onward travel.
Here the surrounding fjords offer opportunities for fishing, expedition landings, hikes, kayaking and whale watching. Perhaps make a stop at Sydbay, a small island boasting beautiful sandy beaches and the remains of a historic whaling community.
KANGERLUSSUAQ
Here we will be greeted by spectacular views of large icebergs. Disko Island is the largest and youngest in Greenland at only 50 million years old—with 1000 2000 meter tablelands of glacier-covered basaltic plateaus sliced by nearby alpine troughs and glacial valleys. Perhaps visit Qeqertarsuaq where traces of a pre-Inuit settlement between five and six thousand years old have been found. In the 18th century whalers arrived, founding a settlement in 1773. Hunting and fishing are still the primary occupations for the inhabitants.
Qeqertarsuaq is a port and town in Qeqertalik municipality, located on the south coast of Disko Island on the west coast of Greenland. Good hiking opportunities exist to the east of town with views across Disko Bay. There is a museum and a small selection of stores. There's even a beach (sort of!)
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SYDBAY & AMERLOQ FJORD
SOUTH DISKO ISLAND
colder. Expect average temperatures between 0°C – 7°C (32°F– 45°F). Dress typically consists of casual and practical clothing. The clothes you would bring on a ski holiday are a good guide; layers of warm clothes to wear on landings, warm casual clothes for wearing on board, and a warm jacket to wear on deck. For landings, we recommend dressing in layers to allow you to adjust your insulation during changing conditions.
Our expedition will travel to the Arctic during the boreal summer months, although at these high latitudes the ice never disappears. Sunny conditions are common but they can change quickly to storms with cold winds and snow flurries. Travelers must be prepared for rapid weather changes, and keep in mind that strong winds and sea spray can make conditions feel significantly
WOULD CONSIST OF:
TYPICAL DRESS FOR LANDING
TOP Thermal Lightweightunderwearfleece/ thermal top Heavy fleece top / sweater / parka Parkaliner / waterproof shell BOTTOM Thermal Comfortableunderweartrousers - if insulated you may not need ThickWaterproofthermalstrouserswarmsocks
ARCTIC SUMMER
A
WHAT TO BRING
Comfortable walking shoes for use on deck and for travel to the vessel.
Casual shoes, sandals or slippers for indoor use on board.
One pair of fully waterproof rubber boots with sturdy, high-traction soles. Our recommended polar outfitter, Ship to Shore Traveler, offers the Honeywell’s Extreme Weather Boot (previously know as Muck Boot Company’s “Arctic Sport” ) which is ideal.
OUTERWEAR FOOTWEAR
A warm parka jacket for spending time on deck.
Warm woollen or polar fleece sweaters - a combination of lighter and heavier sweaters is preferable for greater flexibility. Fleece is lighter and dries more quickly than wool.
Waterproof mittens or gloves. Also a pair of thin, polypropylene gloves that fit underneath so that you can remove your outer mittens or gloves without your hands getting cold.
2 pairs of warm, comfortable trousers to wear under your waterproof trousers. Heavy cotton, wool, or synthetic hiking trousers are ideal choices.
socks - wool, smart wool, or synthetic - for wearing with rubber boots.
Knee-high boots that are completely waterproof are important so that your feet will not get wet when you step into shallow water during landings. Boots should have good traction because you will encounter poor footing on ice and rough terrain.Comfort is important since you will wear these boots for most landings.
At least one full set of thermal or silk long
T-shirts, polo shirts, jeans / slacks and other casual clothes, for layering and on board the vessel.
Softshell, windproof fleece or micro-down jacket for insulation below your shell layer and for hiking and touring on warmer days.
One pair of waterproof pants - made of Gore-Tex or similar waterproof, breathable fabric - that are loose enough to wear over trousers and boots. You will need these for almost every landing.
A bathing suit for a “Polar Plunge.”
If you are not comfortable walking in rubber boots, you may wish to also bring a pair of waterproof hiking boots. Gore-Tex boots are a good option.
One waterproof shell jacket for rainy or windy weather. Quality is important to be comfortable during landings.
Evening attire.
Warm hats and a scarf / neck gaiter. Windstopper fabrics are a good choice for your hat and wool or fleece are ideal.
Warm,Socksunderwear.andunderwear.sturdy,tallthick
Bring several pairs since you may get your feet wet.
Baseball cap for sun protection on warm days.
CLOTHING PACKING LIST
Laptop or other portable device in order to download your photographs during the voyage.
Extra camera batteries or battery charger. Note that cold temperatures sap battery life much more quickly than in warmer climates, so you want to be prepared with extra batteries.
• Binoculars are essential for quality viewing of distant wildlife and birds in wilderness areas. You will find yourself using your binoculars a lot, so it is worth investing in a quality product.
• Binoculars are described by two numbers, “10 x 50” for instance. The first number is the magnification and the second is the diameter of the front lens in millimetres. This tells you first of all how much bigger things appear and then how much of it you see at that magnification - a bit like looking down tubes of different diameters. A front lens diameter of 50mm is fairly common, but the binoculars will be quite bulky; anything less than this is described as “compact”, much easier to carry about, but a smaller diameter tube to look down.
• Image-stabilised binoculars are available, but these are expensive and may be too heavy to carry on landings, so are not necessarily the best choice.
PACKING LIST
A good pair of binoculars - see Binocular Guidelines.
A lightweight collapsible, walking staff - also called a trekking pole. Provides a sense of security, increased balance and confidence when walking on ice, snow and rugged terrain. Some prefer to walk with a pole in each hand for even more stability.
Water-resistant backpack or similar for carrying cameras or other equipment during landings. Waterproof backpacks are available, but an easy alternative is to bring a waterproof liner or large plastic bag to put inside a regular backpack. Zip-lock plastic bags as added protection for camera, batteries, etc.
• A magnification of 10 or 12 is about as much as most people can manage to hold without shaking and is generally most useful. Don’t simply choose the most powerful binoculars you can since these are hard to hold steady without a tripod or something to brace against. Consider weight, as you will want to bring these with you during walks ashore. 8x42 or 10x42 are popular choices.
EQUIPMENT BINOCULARS
Sunblock, moisturising lotion and lip balm to protect your skin against sun, wind and cold.
1 or 2 pairs of sturdy sunglasses with good UV and wind protection. The summer sun reflected off the ice can be dangerous to under-protected eyes. We recommend bringing a spare pair in case one breaks or is lost, especially if they are prescription. Note that those who wear contacts may find wind and sea salt spray can irritate the eyes.
Camera, lenses and plenty of memory cards.
Combining lore, natural history and conservation, McLeish travels in search of the much mythologized cetacean to visit climate researchers in Colorado, to see them in the wild (and in the market) in Greenland and to spend time among the Inuit.
An essential handbook for the ship-based traveler, this compact guide to the plants, marine mammals and birds of the Circumpolar North features handsome watercolour illustrations and lively text.
RECOMMENDED READING
THE ARCTIC: A GUIDE TO COASTAL WILDLIFE by Tony Soper 2012, PAPER, 160 PAGES
NARWHALS: ARCTIC WHALES IN A MELTING WORLD by Todd Mcleish 2014, PAPER, 216 PAGES
NATURAL HISTORY
A NATURALIST’S GUIDE TO THE ARCTIC by E.C. Pielou 1994, PAPER, 327 PAGES
This guide covers the geography and climate, plants, birds and wildlife of the Circumpolar North.
RECOMMENDED READING
A handsome collection of 300 striking maps covering five centuries of Arctic exploration, most in glorious colour and many presented here for the first time. Hayes provides captivating, scholarly commentary.
VIKINGS: THE NORTH ATLANTIC SAGA
This marvellously researched novel recreates life in the Viking settlements in Greenland
201O, HARD COVER, 349 PAGES
HISTORY & EXPLORATION
HISTORICAL ATLAS OF THE ARCTIC by Derek Hayes
2000, PAPER, 432 PAGES
2005, PAPER, 608 PAGES
The ancient Inuit, Vikings, Vitus Bering, whalers, explorers and James Cook are all paid tribute in this sumptuously illustrated history, drawing on the unique collections of Helsinki’s Nurminen Foundation.
Diamond tackles nothing less than the history and fate of civilisation in this compelling book in which he offers case studies, present and past, of societies that work and societies that do not, devoting 100 carefully reasoned pages, for example, to the fate of the Norse settlements in Greenland (climatic change, Inuit). This revised edition includes a new afterword.
THE GREENLANDERS by Jane Smiley
A HISTORY OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION by Juha Nurminen
COLLAPSE: HOW SOCIETIES CHOOSE TO FAIL OR SUCCEED by Jared Diamond 2011, PAPER, 575 PAGES
An extensively illustrated volume of Viking culture, history and exploration that focuses especially on voyages to North America. Published in conjunction with a Smithsonian exhibit, it features essays and 400 colour photographs.
2003, HARD COVER, 208 PAGES
THIS COLD HEAVEN by Gretel Ehrlich 2003, PAPER, 400 PAGES
Ehrlich spent seven seasons in Greenland, mostly alone, traveling by boat, helicopter, plane and dogsled. This exhilarating book reflects her insight, knowledge and deep appreciation of the people and barren landscapes of the north.
PENGUIN HISTORICAL ATLAS OF THE VIKINGS by John Haywood 1995, PAPER, 144 PAGES
RECOMMENDED READING
HISTORY & EXPLORATION
LAST PLACES: A JOURNEY IN THE NORTH by Lawrence Millman, Paul Theroux (Introduction) 2000, PAPER, 242 PAGES
This unique exploration of Greenland’s history provides firsthand accounts by Greenlanders as their island is colonized by the Danes in the 19th century. The writings delve into traditional Greenland life including local ritual, politics and the status of women.
THE FATE OF GREENLAND by Philip Conkling 2013, PAPER, 224 PAGES
EDEN IN THE NORTH by Signe Rink 2014, PAPER, 192 PAGES
The history of the Vikings told through a series of innovative maps and excellent photographs. This book traces the routes of the ninth-century Viking merchants and explorers throughout Europe and on to the New World.
Both a sumptuous portrait of a remarkable place and an upto-date overview of research into climate change, this gorgeously illustrated book brings together essays by leading geoscientists and oceanographers.
Millman explores the culture and history of the Faroes, Iceland and Greenland in this hilarious account of his travels in the wake of the ancient Vikings
Smilla’s Sense of Snow is a complicated and rich novel, a fast-paced thriller, a love story, an anthropological exploration, and a philosophical treatise all in one book.
RECOMMENDED READING
by Barry Lopez 2001, PAPER, 417 PAGES
GENERAL
by Peter Høeg 1993, PAPER, 490 PAGES
SMILLA’S SENSE OF SNOW
ARCTIC DREAMS
First published in 1993 Peter Høeg’s novel spent twenty-six weeks on the New York Times bestseller list. Notable for its treatment of Danish culture, Greenlandic culture, and the inevitable clash of values brought about by the shift from a colonial to postcolonial relationship between the two.
A dazzling meditation on the Arctic, breathtaking in scope. Lopez draws on his travels throughout the North, including Baffin Island, the Chukchi and Bering seas, Alaska, the Yukon and Greenland, interweaving natural history, accounts of early exploration, anecdote and lore into an indelible portrait of place.
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The information on the following pages is adapted from www.aeco.no/guidelines/ visitor-guidelines. All activities in the Arctic operate within a comprehensive framework of international and national laws and regulations to ensure safety and preservation of the environment. The Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO) is an international association for vessel-based Arctic expedition operators.
GUIDELINESVISITORARCTIC
In areas with polar bears, the bears can be encountered anywhere, anytime. Although polar bears normally will try to avoid encounters with humans, they are potentially extremely dangerous. For mutual safety, the following procedures are essential:
• Never leave food anywhere in an attempt to lure polar bears
• Never touch live or dead wild animals.
• Never approach or attempt to pet or feed Arctic dogs without permission and supervision from the dog owner/handler.
Arctic Dogs
• Follow your guide’s instructions
ARCTIC VISITOR GUIDELINES
• During community visits do not walk on your own outside of the town
Polar Bears
2. Please avoid stepping on flowers or plant beds if at all possible; and do not pick flowers. Because of seasonal light and low air and water temperatures, life processes, particularly in plant recovery rates, are slower than elsewhere.
4. Do not disturb animals and birds. If close to animals and nesting birds, avoid making loud noises and keep conversation low and calm.
In many Arctic communities we visit there will be a significant number of sled dogs. They are working dogs and not pets and can be dangerous to strangers:
Travel in Arctic areas may involve various risks. Rule number one is that you must always pay attention to and follow the instructions given by your expedition guide.
• Never leave your group and the guides carrying equipment to protect you
• Rabies has been detected in Arctic regions. Some animals, such as the arctic fox, arctic dogs and arctic wolves are potential carriers.
• If you sight a polar bear while ashore immediately inform your guide
6. Respect local culture and local people. When visiting local communities, please remember that you are a guest, and follow their requests for how we conduct our visits.
• Never approach a bear on foot or in a kayak
5. Take the polar bear danger seriously. Polar bears are potentially dangerous animals, but also vulnerable. It is of the utmost importance that you stay with your group and follow your guide’s instructions during landings in polar bear country. Expedition Guides will be carrying firearms and other bear deterrents in areas where polar bears could be encountered.
3. Do not take anything with you; cultural remains are protected. Please leave stones, bones, antlers, driftwood and other items where they are. Also, watch where you are walking and standing.
1. Please leave no lasting signs of your visit, including litter, even items as small as cigarette butts; do not engrave on rocks or buildings and do not build cairns, rearrange stones or in any other way leave visible signs of your visit.
BASIC PRINCIPLES
SAFETY GUIDELINES
ARCTIC VISITOR GUIDELINES
Cultural remains are the traces humans have left behind. Arctic cultural remains often tell stories of challenging life under harsh conditions, where the natural environment and cold temperatures have set the scene. Arctic cultural remains tell many different stories – stories of survival, lost cultures, exploration, science, geopolitics, wars, adventures and much more. While visiting cultural remains, it is important to be careful so that others, including future generations, also have the opportunity to learn from the past.
Cultural Remains Guidelines
• Anyone visiting cultural heritage sites should do their utmost to ensure minimum impact and treat what they observe with great respect:
Respect local cultures
• Never barter or import banned substances to a community. Most of the communities are “dry” meaning bringing alcohol ashore is illegal.
• You are encouraged to buy local souvenirs and products, but be aware of the legalities of importing/transporting purchases into other countries e.g. CITES – Convention of 3 March 1973 on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora/ The Washington Convention, www.cites.org .
• Respect privacy; keep a good distance from private houses and never look or photograph through private windows.
• Please follow the instructions of your guides during visits.
• Cairns may be signposts – please do not alter them.
• Cultural remains may be buildings, constructions, and crafts. They can also be indicative of human graves including crosses and other grave markings, bones and bone fragments. Remains might also include spring guns and animal traps as well as skeletons of animals and more. What may look like waste at a cultural heritage site are often cultural remains and should be left untouched where they are.
• Watch from the perimeter and walk around and not between or on the cultural remains.
• Cultural remains will gradually degrade and change over time. Natural phenomena such as avalanches, landslides, animals and gradually increasing temperatures in parts of the Arctic can represent risks to cultural remains.
• Do not visit graveyards or other areas of religious or cultural significance without permission.
• On and around cultural remains: do not touch, move, dig, add, or in any way disturb the ground and what is on it.
• With this is mind it is important to remember that visits to cultural heritage sites can cause harm and speed up natural decay. Stepping on an artifact can break it and moving an item can reduce its historic value.
CULTURAL INTERACTIONS GUIDELINES
• Talk to and not about people you meet.
• Ask before you photograph – a hesitation tends to mean “no”.
• Work against prejudiced attitudes.
The Arctic is characterized by huge wilderness areas and small remote towns and settlements, often with Inuit population. Inuit is a general term for the group of culturally similar indigenous people. Few small towns and settlements in the Arctic have road accessibility and contact with the outside world may be limited for greater parts of the year. For a small and sometimes isolated town or settlement in the Arctic, a vessel calling is often a welcome and happy event. Locals often find the visit interesting and welcome the economic benefits, but as visitors we must be mindful of the potential impact of our visit on these remote communities and their residents.
GUIDELINESBIOSECURITYGUIDELINES
Upon arrival:
The Arctic remains one of the most pristine natural environments in the world. Non-native species represent a threat to biodiversity globally as they can cause serious negative impacts to the natural environment. Non-native species can spread to the Arctic through our activities there. Seeds, microorganisms, and even insects can hitchhike to the Arctic on footwear, attached to clothing, or in bags that have been used in the outdoors previously. By following a few simple steps, you can ensure that your visit doesn’t lead to non-native species being introduced to the Arctic:
Before the expedition:
ARCTIC VISITOR
• Examine and clean clothes, footwear, and bags thoroughly.
• Use a vacuum cleaner, brushes, and water where necessary to ensure all seeds and dirt have been removed. This is especially important if you have used your clothing and equipment previously in parklands or rural settings, or other polar regions.
• Follow the biosecurity procedures on your expedition. This is especially important if you are moving between distinct geographic regions (e.g. between eastern and western Svalbard, Svalbard and Greenland or Greenland and Canada) but also when moving between distinct landing sites.
• Examine and clean all clothing, including pockets, seams, Velcro fasteners, and footwear soles for dirt and organic material.
• Watch your step. If you notice organic matter on boots, clothing or gear, please clean it off before leaving a site. Thank you for taking the time to review these guidelines in preparation for your expedition.
• Consider the weight of photo equipment you plan to carry ashore.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE ARCTIC:
• Uploading large numbers of photos or video to the cloud may not be possible during the expedition due to limited internet speed on board, so plan on keeping your photos on your phone or computer.
• Because cold temperatures sap battery power, carry batteries close to your body to keep them warm, and carry spares.
• A super-wide lens is recommended for capturing the vast landscapes.
• Protect your photographic gear from the elements - rain and sea splash make waterproof bags essential.
PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
• Always have your camera on a strap to avoid dropping it on deck or in the sea.
• A tripod is useful ashore but not practical for use on board the moving vessel. A monopod or beanbag can be useful to stabilise images taken from the vessel.
• Photographing distant wildlife such as whales or seabirds may require a fast, long lens or high zoom function. Image stabilised lenses are recommended.
