F/W 14
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RAILS & TALES . . . Peru
Stop #1
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
Chicama, Peru... Land of the Longest Left on Earth Photos by Tia Calvo
We awoke to sunlight streaming in, and ocean breezes blowing. Ahhh... Paradise! Propped up on an elbow, I check the morning conditions from our oceanfront room at Chicama Surf Resort, the host of our WSSM Surf Retreat. The surf remains small this morning, despite hopes of a swell as predicted, but just being in this magical place where the desert stretches in all directions before merging with the sea, makes even small surf seem inviting.
After a buffet breakfast, hot coffee and fresh juices, we bust out our laptops and get caught up on work as we await the arrival of our guests. Ding, ding... the gate bell sounds & the Levy family is finally here, along with Tia, our lovely photographer from Australia, who is currently living in Peru. Fabio shows them around the resort, showcasing their multiple hot tubs, steam rooms, sauna, pools, gym and massage center, as well as the board room, where they free offer wash & dry service for your wetsuit! We enjoy a leisurely lunch, then walk to the nearby town to purchase water by the gallons... after all, we ARE in a desert, and it just sucks the liquid right out of you! After purchasing water from a quaint store, we all load into Motokarts, and enjoy a fun and breezy ride back to the resort. Quickly donning our wetsuits, we give our names to the boat captain, Percy, who then marks us all with a wristband, so he knows which of us in the lineup he should pick up for tow-back service in the Chicama Surf Resort zodiac. Down the mountain we go, passing jellyfish bigger than dinner plates that have washed up on shore. They’re almost prehistoric size! Thankful for our suits that will protect us from them and the frigid water, an hour a half flies by quickly as we take turns trading waves at the Point, with Percy picking us up after our rides and dropping us back off at the lineup. Not only a great boat driver, he also filmed us from the zodiac with his GoPro, as we slide down the line towards him. Growing too cold to catch more waves, we call it a night and head for the hot tub overlooking the cliff and the break below, jumping in while still in our wetsuits. Ahhhh.... A delicious 3 course meal is served as we talk surf stories, sharks, and our shared “love” of SUP’s in the lineup. Sleep begins to set in, so we retire for the night after reserving a van the next day to take us all to Pacasmayo, a break that is an hour further North, where we are told it is catching the swell a little better. Morning dawns and we’re all excited to get going. Miguel, the resort manager had lined up a nice van and driver for us, and we were off to explore Pacasmayo, another of Peru’s famous waves. Upon arrival, we see that they were right. The swell IS better here, so we eagerly wiggle into wetsuits, allowing Valeh to snap away on her camera capturing it all for their memories, as Tia treks off down the beach to get a better view of the lineup and sets up her camera. What seemed like a sketchy paddle out really wasn’t that bad, and we all arrived safely at the lineup, after navigating a rouge rock that would randomly appear when the bigger sets sucked the water back. Making sure we were all aware of it, we traded wave after wave with the locals, who were also tearing it up at the peak. Not as friendly of a break for longboarders, Bob and Sydney still managed to catch quite a few waves and enjoyed themselves, as Bobby and Dan edged each other deeper and deeper on the take-off on their shortboards. Wave-filled and happy, we returned to shore and headed back to Chicama Surf Resort. Another pin on the surf map was complete. Check! The next day was a mellow day, spent hanging around the resort. Morning showed a 28 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Chicama Surf Resort
The world’s LONGEST left We made it to Pacasmayo!
Bob and Valeh... True love!
Sydney... dancing on the water wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 29
RAILS & TALES . . . Peru
Stop #1
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
Chicama, Peru... Land of the Longest Left on Earth Photos by Tia Calvo
“Dan and Sandra, Thank you so much for the experience of a lifetime in Chicama, Peru. Visiting Peru, I didn’t know what to expect, and you made it into the best trip I have ever been on. From the moment my family and I stepped off the bus, we were greeted like family by you and the staff of the Chicama Surf Resort. It felt like we had already been friends forever. Every day of the next week was planned with action packed, fun adventures with you and Tia Calvo, our amazing phoographer and new friend who joined us on the trip. We surfed every day together and had a blast, and were always greeted back at the Chicama Surf Resort with amazing service and a beautiful, authentic meal. Miguel Vegas, the manager of the resort always put a smile on everyone’s faces whenever we were with him. Also, it was a real privilege to be included in the surf outreach with Share The Stoke Foundation, which opened our eyes to how truly international the joy of surfing is, and introduced us to many new friends of the local Chicama communiy. Overall, this was a trip of a lifetime filled with amazing adventures, good laughs, and fun waves. Thank you Sandra and Dan for making this truly amazing experience happen. I hope to travel with you again soon!” - Bobby Levy slight increase in swell, so we loaded into the zodiac and headed for the Cape, that is tucked just out of sight around the cliffs to the South. Upon arrival though, we discovered that it was flat, indicating that the Cape worked better on a lower tide. Tia had convinced Miguel to allow her to ride in the boat with the captain and shoot, something normally not allowed. But with just our group surfing this morning, he had graciously allowed it, offering us the opportunity to get shots from an angle not normally seen at Chicama, as we threw shakas at Tia and Junior as we surfed towards the boat. THANKS Miguel! You’re the best! For almost two hours, we were the only ones out, so the vibe was super happy and full of laughter. After soaking in the hot tub and a leisurely lunch, we went to town again for more water, and then took a Motokart back to the resort. Our driver was particularly funny. A man of about 50 years of age, who as soon as we got it, CRANKED up the Latin tunes super loud and we boogied our way back home, waving to the locals and laughing. After a short nap, Bob, Bobby and me decided the Cape was worth a second look, so slipping into wetsuits, we braved the elements and headed out. The previous evening, the Levy family had taken an evening walk up the desert cliffs and were impressed with the Cape’s conditions at that time of day, and hoped it would be that way again. They were correct, the Cape was working! With a somewhat sketchy takeoff near some very rough rocks that jutted out, there were overhead drops to be had, with workable sections over a sandy bottom. It was an excellent way to close out our third day in Chicama. With enough power in the wave to keep us satisfied until the new swell approached on Friday, we were some happy surfers returning for a delicious dinner! After hot showers, we all hung out in the large, comfy dining room while Tia edited photos, and Dan worked on videos from the day for our social media channels. The 30 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Headed out for our first surf session at Chicama The ancient city of Chan Chan
Nothing like soaking in the hottub at Chicama Surf Resort after an incredible session
The WSSM family: Dan Olson, Bobby Levy, Bob Levy, Valeh Levy, Sydney Levy, Sandra Olson
wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 31
RAILS & TALES . . . Peru Levy family chatted together by the fireplace, and checked out Tia’s and Dan’s work. Meanwhile, Miguel and I met with Carley from the Peace Corps and the founder of the Chicama Girls Surf Team, along with Joan Bergman, Lena, and Kelly Kingston, founder of the Share the Stoke Foundation. We were planning for the upcoming surf festival and give-back day for the children of Peru, and then sorted through the massive amounts of donated school supplies, t-shirts designed by Valeh Levy, and wetsuits. With over 100 wetsuits donated, we were going to be able to get a LOT of kids in the water in the coming months! Thank you, to everyone that donated these suits! They needed them here in Peru. Morning came bright and early, and we were excited! We were headed to Huanchaco, a wave we had heard was ALMOST as fun as Chicama! The current there isn’t as bad as in Chicama, so we wouldn’t be needing a zodiac to tow us back to the lineup, and we were especially honored to have Miguel as our tour guide for the day, as he knows the town of Huanchaco very well, and was going to show us around. After an hour and fifteen minute drive, with Miguel giving us the history of Peru and all the little things we would never have known had we driven ourselves, we arrived at a perfectly glassy, and welcoming Huanchaco. After the brisk winds at Chicama the previous days, we had found empty, glassy, overhead peaks pealing down the beach, and were stoked! Three hours flew by WAY to quickly as we hooted each other into some of the most powerful peaks we’d experienced thus far on the trip. Once the tide changed and they became less frequent, it signaled it was time to get some lunch and then head to the ruins of Chan Chan. This ancient city was at one time, the largest city in all of Peru. Now decimated and hardly noticeable from a distance, we marvelled at the ways in which this huge city was constructed! Back in the day, to avoid getting lost within the high walls, you simply had to follow the birds etched in them- in the direction they were headed, which would lead you out of the city. Large wells within the city made it impenetrable to enemy forces, and it was fascinating to hear about the rituals and sacrifices they had once practiced. Morbidly fascinating, that is.
Chicama, Peru... Land of the Longest Left on Earth
Photos by Tia Calvo
The next day, we knew would be special. It was time to give back to the local community, with the help of Share the Stoke Foundation, who had graciously donated 10 surfboards for the community, and the Chicama Girls Surf Team, who would be helping us all direct the local kids during the beach cleanup-- BEFORE giving them free surf lessons, which they were especially looking forward to. Over 75 kids showed up, and we were off to clean up the beach! Glass, rubber, and plastic went into large garbage bags, as the kids were taught what was “real trash” and what was biodegradable, and why they should take care of their beaches, after which they excitedly formed a large circle as Junior instructed them on how to pop-up correctly. After a few practice pop-ups, they then headed to the water’s edge. After a night of careful planning, we were pleased to see that we had this down to a system! Bob, Valeh and Junior, along with Dan and Bobby headed into the water to give lessons, while the rest of us instructed the children when it was their turn, and which instructor to go out to, and Tia was on shore capturing video and photos of it all. After a few waves each, the kids would run back to shore and line up again for another turn. After several turns each, they got too cold to go out again, so we headed back up the beach where Miguel had been keeping everyone else entertained on the loudspeaker with music and his very funny sense of humour, and enjoyed a beach bbq, donated by the Chicama Surf Resort. Tired and happy, we will all cherish the smiles and good times we all enjoyed with the children of Peru that day. The next day was spent in anticipation of the incoming swell, as we frolicked in small waves once again. Though the Levy family, from Florida, said they had already enjoyed the longest waves of their lives... we told them to hang tight. Chicama hadn’t blessed us yet with the waves that have made her famous. Stories of rides till your legs burn tantalized them, and we fell asleep that night, praying for REAL Chicama surf.
Right on schedule, with the rising tide came the waves of our dreams! Well overhead and firing line after line of perfect pealing sets, Tia joined us in the water for our last session of the trip, and for the very best waves!
Due to the powerful current , when it gets to this size, you often don’t see your friends much, other than cheering them on from the zodiac as you pass them screaming down the line, as it races you back to the lineup for another thrill ride. But it was thrilling enough, when you were on the inside after a wave and while waiting for the zodiac to come get you, to see the Levy family, trading waves with each other, dropping into massive bombs (Bobby even got a stand-up barrel with both arms outstretched overhead, right in front of me!), making section after section after section, carving deep turns and racing back up to the top, only to drop in again and again, then popping out of it with arms extended and hoots you could hear from a mile away! The smiles on their faces and excited surf stoke said it all. They had truly experienced the Chicama they had heard and dreamed of, and could officially say with conviction, that they had surfed the world’s LONGEST left, and gotten the longest waves of their lives! Long live Chicama! Special thanks to the Chicama Surf Resort, for making our WSSM retreat so special, and taking such good care of us. To book your stay at the very BEST resort in Chicama, with all the luxuries and waves you can dream of, visit them at www.ChicamaSurf.com, and tell them WSSM sent you! They’ll treat you like family!
32 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
An ancient well in the city of Chan Chan
“I believe the key to a good surf trip is the company you keep, and I couldn’t have been more blessed. The Levy family were so much fun, always laughing, full of surf stoke and bringing nohing but good vibes. It was incredible to spend time with a whole surfing family, who were able to have their vacation together sharing amazing waves in such an interesting new country. On our last day at Chicama the waves were firing. I jumped out of bed at the crack of dawn and ran down the point, board in arm, for a sneaky morning session. Our team spent the day surfing wave after wave down the bay, smiling from ear to ear, arms like noodles. Bobby caught a wave that we timed to be a few minutes long, it was absolutely unreal. After our legs completely gave out we returned to the hoel to soak in the much needed ho tub, watching the big red sun setting across the perfect lines.” - Tia Calvo / WSSM Phoographer
Sydney... and Dan?
Valeh gets ready to set this surfer girl free
Bobby, longboarding... SUCH a pleasure to watch
Bob and his protege Nightfall at Chicama Surf Resort
One of the many Motokarts in Chicama
Giving back, with Share the Stoke Foundation and the Chicama Girls Surf Team
Stop #1
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
Valeh a.k.a. Surfsquatch at Chicama wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 33
RAILS & TALES . . . Panama
Dinnertime at Morro Negrito
Kaydi, the 1st winner of the hot pink fins from Fins Unlimted!
Carolyn brought a variety of chocolate bars that we devoured nightly
Sandra, Kristin, Carolyn and Kerry return to the boat from Snickers
Austin, showing his skills on his longboard at Snickers
Kerry, feeling right at home at Elijas 34 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Stop #2
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
Sandra “flying” at Elijahs
Panama...
The Land of Uncrowded Waves Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
Panama is one of those places most people know very little about. Other than the famous Canal, what else is there? Is it still dangerous? Is the surf there any good? Does anyone speak English? These are just some of the many questions we get asked about Panama, and ones we ourselves were asking when we were exploring the idea of going there. After visiting it a few years back, we discovered it is a land shrouded in mystery, yet boasting some of the best, uncrowded waves any surfer could dream of! Is it safe? That’s a matter of opinion, and of course, dependent on where you go, who you’re with, and how you dress. But overall, YES! English isn’t widely spoken, but most locals are happy to try, and are very helpful when you’re in need. Panamanians are a friendly people, and generally speaking, very kind. After reading our article in WSSM, several readers expressed interest in going to the surf-drenched coast we wrote about, so when we organized our WSSM Surf Retreat Tour in 2014, we knew this was a MUST on the list! Returning retreat guests, Carolyn Palma, Kerry McDonald, Kristin Wetzel, Buffy and Kaydi Archer, and their newest travel companion- Austin Hollingshead, joined the WSSM crew on our epic adventure, ready to travel into the heart of the jungle. After meeting up in busy Panama City, we spent the night at a beautiful hotel, in anticipation of our midnight bus to the province of David, where Morro Negrito Surf Camp was located.
Hanging out at the hammocks overlooking Emilys, in-between sessions
One thing you’ll quickly learn while in Panama, is that often, NOTHING works out as planned. Any negotiations or contracts you’ve signed are likely to be re-negotiated, against your will, upon arrival, once there’s nothing you can do about it- or you’ll be left stranded. If you can roll with the punches, as our super easygoing crew was, then you’re going to have a great time, just going with the flow. That first bus ride was a small taste of what was ahead for us, when it comes to the distrustful side of Panama. We had prepaid our camp host for a 40 person luxury (party) bus so we could stretch out during the overnight, 6 hour ride to the camp, but instead were furnished with a small van that barely held us, much less our luggage, which the driver expressed surprise at, and asked us if we really wanted to take it all with us! Seriously? Rotten bungee cords snapped as they loaded our plethora of boards on the rooftop, and hotel staff giggled and laughed as they watched the charade unfold. This was EXACTLY why we ordered, paid for, and confirmed our luxury bus, so our boards could ride safely inside... and what they promised. We demanded they further secure them with ratchet straps, or we weren’t leaving the city. Begrudgingly, they FINALLY complied, and we were on our way! Whew! Panama is not one of those places that you go to for the accommodations or service, as they’re often old, dirty, and haven’t been updated in the last (25+) years, and you’re likely to get a disgruntled attitude when asking for electricity to charge your laptop or cameras (at Morro Negrito). Upon our arrival, the camp that was previously run quite well by Steve Thompson, the owner, was now run by his ex-wife, who we could clearly see was no surfer, and thus, had fallen into disrepair. Sadly, it turns out the reviews we had read online, WERE true, after all. The once rustic, but comfy rooms were now seriously lacking in comfort. The screens were torn and flapping, allowing the never ending colonies of hornets and wasps to enter the room and check you out (how hard is it to knock the nests down and fumigate the wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 35
RAILS & TALES . . . Panama
The solitude in Panama is one of its greatest gifts to your soul
Kaydi donated her board to local girl, Iris, who desperately needed one. What a sweetheart!
Party boat!! Off to Leftovers, and to scout for dolphins along the way!
Sandra watches as Kristin shreds down the line, and Kerry gets a front row seat to the action Dan, catching the outside sets at Leftovers with the big boys
Kaydi, perfecting her big-wave riding skills at Snickers, which was HEAVING!
36 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Sandra at Leftovers, having the time of her life
Stop #2
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
Panama...
The Land of Uncrowded Waves
Off through the jungle in search of monkeys and waterfalls The jungle does CRAZY things to you... unless you’re our 5yr old guide
Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
common areas?), and the fans (listed on their website) that had previously offered a smidgen of breeze to cool you from the hot air, were all gone. The heat was sweltering during the day, so our only relief was to get in the water. Which was WHY we were here anyway, so we took advantage! We were here for the WAVES, and the waves at Morro Negrito, are epic. Truly epic. With the right swell, you will surf till your arms fall off, and then head back to camp where you’ll find food in delicious abundance so that you can refuel, and do it all over again. Their location is also perfect, with a fun little point break, Emily’s, directly in front of the camp, that makes cheering for your friend’s waves, or getting great photographs, easy. Another thing Morro Negrito gets right, is their boat captains. Second to NONE, these guys are the BEST! Irvin and Eric are helpful, courteous, and quick to take you wherever you want to go with enthusiasm. They’ll give you accurate advice on wave quality for the day, what spot is breaking best for the direction of the swell, as well as timing it JUST RIGHT to get your photographers to the beautiful beaches in between the wave sets on the pangas (boats), so they can capture the day’s adventures. They’ll often sit in the lineup with you, so you know where you should be, but don’t snag your waves... which is ALWAYS nice. GREAT guys! From punchy beach breaks like our favorite- Snickers and Elijah’s (perfect for beginners or small wave lovers) , to deep-water, rolling monsters of waves like Leftovers that make your heart pound into your throat as it heaves, to the Point- a barrelling wave that on the right swell keeps the camps most enthused adrenalin junkies busy all day, to the always funEmily’s, out in front of the camp... Morro Negrito offers almost a dozen waves of all sizes, shapes and experience levels. Couple that with nonexistent crowds (your group will often be the only ones at camp), and you’re in surfer HEAVEN! The week flew by quickly as we surfed several times a day, ate in abundance, explored the jungle and mangroves in search of waterfalls, monkeys and crocodiles, and told surf stories around the bonfire. Panama is one of the most remote and beautiful place on earth, and is truly good for the soul. Upon departure, once again, Panama’s trustless nemesis struck again, as the owners of Morro Negrito changed our agreement with them, and threatened to hold our group hostage, if we did not turn over our photos from the trip. We had previously agreed to do so, but needed to edit them first, converting them from RAW format so any computer could open them, which would take us hours and hours! But no, they said we couldn’t be trusted to send them (trust issues?) and wouldn’t listen to reason, so after their threats, we indeed gave them the RAW files, and will see if they ever figure out a way to use them. We then took the 20 minute boat ride back to the mainland, where we agreed to never, ever return to their camp. Never in all our days of visiting foreign countries , resorts or camps, have we EVER encountered such animosity, or changes to written contract. Their response to our shock at the situation was “well, you’re in Panama now, far from home, so get used to it” hardly suffices, and is unforgivable. Owner to owner, they should know better, and value their guests experiences more. The good times we had were tainted with their actions, and in good conscience, we cannot recommend anyone go there. However, to fulfill our contract with them, we included them in this article, and here is their contact info, so you can decide for yourself, whether or not to stay with them. Visit them at: www.morronegrito.travel The waves and scenery are absolutely INCREDIBLE in Panama, so in the future, we will be staying at Steve Thompson’s new camp that offers a rustic experience on a pristine and beautiful nearby beach. His simple accommodations (with fans in every bungalow), also offers access to all the same, incredible surf breaks we’ve grown to love. (www.panamasurfcamp.com) Until then, goodbye, awesome Panama... we can’t wait to visit you again! wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 37
RAILS & TALES . . . Panama
Surf stoked at Elijas: Carolyn, Kristin and Sandra Brave Buffy decides it’s GoPro time at Elijas
The WSSM family: Irvin (boat captain), Dan, Sandra, Carolyn, Kerry, Kristin, Kaydi & Austin
Carolyn drops into another bomb at Snickers 38 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Thank you to our WSSM Retreat Tour sponsors: Caroline Rocha (carolinerocha.com), Fins Unlimited (finsunlimited.com), Sikk Shades by Eddie Bauer Jr. (sikkshades.com)
Just ONE of the several dozen yoga poses Kristin blessed us with on this trip
Stop #2
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
Panama...
The Land of Uncrowded Waves
Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
A Rose Among Thorns By Kaydi Archer
“Being the only girl in a lineup can be intimidating. Surfing has come off as a “man’s sport” for many years., but women are progressively taking over the world of surfing, one wave at a time.
Surfer girls, Kaydi, Carolyn, Kerry and Kristin
Women’s Surf Syle Magazine has given me opportunities beyond belief. Surfing with Dan and Sandra in El Salvador was a turning point in my skill level. It was the first time I had been out in 15-20 feet waves, but having the comfort and support of this amazing couple has made a world of difference. I paddled out into a group of locals at the point, no knowing what the El Salvadorians would think of a young girl at their break. It was a pleasant surprise when the men treated me as just anoher friend in the water. The whole Volcom Brazil team was surfing their at the same time also. Talk about intimidating! The surfers talked to me, and gave me the confidence and encouragement necessary to ride the monstrous waves of El Cuco, El Salvador. After being so impressed with the first retreat, and boost of confidence, I decided to follow the WSSM crew again, this time, into the dephs of Panama. The remoe location and sizable swell prediction of the breaks we were to visit made this trip too enticing to pass up. Like before, the experienced crew led us to various uncrowded breaks, so remoe that only the local natives knew about, and I surfed among the company of men that realized that we’re all here for the same reason: the love of the sport. Once returning to my local breaks in Florida, there is a level of confidence that has followed. The feeling you have, sitting in a lineup of men, and realizing that you have probably surfed and seen bigger and badder waves than they could ever imagine, gives you a feeling of inner strength and accomplishment that I owe to WSSM for the opportuniy to travel with them. I am truly blessed to have been given these opportunities to come this far and acquire such awesome sponsors as; Boobie Shack Hawaii, Costa Bikinis, Simbi Haiti, Sonic Surboards, SunBum Sunscreen, Villon Clohing, and a proud volunteer of Surfers for Autism. The ocean is a playground for everyone, it doesn’t discriminate, and neither should we.
Our hardworking men: Irvin (boat captain) & Gabriel (photographer)
Now with the opening of the new WSSM surf house in Puerto Rico, home of a few of my favorite breaks, it’s safe to say that they will be seeing a lo more of me!” Our beautiful “Rose” (Kaydi) cheered on by her supportive “Thorn” (Austin) at Emilys
Gabriel enjoying some fresh coconut juice on the beach wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 39
RAILS & TALES . . . El Salvador
Stop #3
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
The Surf Soaked Coastline of
El Salvador... Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
As we brought the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas 2014 to a close this summer, we knew our last stop needed to be somewhere spectacular. So we returned to one of our favorite Central American countries... El Salvador! The East side, home to the surf break, Las Flores, was the home of our first annual women’s surf retreat, but we wanted to change things up a bit, offering our guests a new look at the awesome waves and culture that makes El Salvador truly unique. We booked a charming Salvadorean casa located just a 10 minute walk from our favorite break in the country... Sunzal!
One of the most relaxing pools we’ve ever enjoyed... at Casa Sunzal. A real treat to be in after a surf session!
Casa Sunzal, a cozy 3 bedroom. 3 bathroom Salvadorean home was situated near the rivermouth, but on the El Tunco side, so it was close to everything we loved. Eateries, shopping, pupuserias only steps from the house (a yummy Salvadorean food consisting of masa filled with beans, cheese, and chicken or beef, then pan fried on an open air stove, and topped with coleslaw and a tomato based sauce... YUMMY!), nightlife, and surfboard rentals, making it easy for our guests that did not bring their own boards, to rent one. The two-story design of the casa overlooking the beautifully landscaped yard and charming swimming pool, enabled us to check the conditions of the water each morning- and when it looked glassy and clean- almost every morning, we were out the door in a flash, to grab some waves before the crowds showed up. Now catching Sunzal without crowds is almost impossible, but due to the many takeoff spots available, if you’re aggressive enough to snag a few waves as soon as you get out, everyone will pretty much leave you an open peak after that, and you’ll get your waves. Sunzal is a right-hand point break that is so gentle and easy to surf, it can hold size of over 15 feet easily! Long carvable walls await you, with the opportunity for turn after turn after turn, before spitting you into the channel where you’re slowly drawn back out to the lineup. This is indeed, our favorite wave in El Salvador, because almost ALL levels of surfers will feel comfortable here, with the point rewarding the more advanced surfers with steeper drops that then peel into workable shoulders.
Casa Sunzal is fully stocked and ready for you! Sleeps up to 9 comfortably, with A/C in each bedroom
Our girls surfed here for 2 days before we decided it was time to go experience the other charms this country offers. Cuscatlan Tours was the answer, and we were excited when they arrived at 7am to pick us all up and begin our full day of adventure. The A/C’d van was comfy and cool as we left for our first stop-- the Juayana Cascades, a BEAUTIFUL waterfall that was easily accessible. After a short 1200 meter hike down a groomed trail, we were greeted with water gushing down the side of the mountain and into a crystal clear pool below, before slipping over the edge and tumbling downward once again to the cliffs below.
Foosball anyone?
Gabriel was the first one into the water, quickly followed by Dana and Karen, who splashed and swam their way to the waterfall, standing on its ledges and letting the water thunder over them. It looked too good to resist, so we quickly joined them, taking in the fresh clean water, rejuvenating us for our second adventure... the canopy tour! El Salvador has several zip lines (canopies) to choose from, but due to the close proximity to Juayana Cascades and our other upcoming activities, Acanepa Canopy Tour was our host. With 12 zip lines to enjoy, we weaved 40 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
The master bedroom at Casa Sunzal
Casa Sunzal
Delicious pupusas are made fresh daily just a short walk from Casa Sunzal
Karen & Sandra make their way across the rocky beach to Sunzal Point
Dan hits the lip at Sunzal
Karen taking her wave at Sunzal... not an easy task when it’s crowded wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 41
RAILS & TALES . . . El Salvador
Stop #3
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas
The Surf Soaked Coastline of
El Salvador... Photos by Gabeto Fernandez
and swung our way through the forest, enjoying the epic views of distant volcanoes and foliage drenched valleys below us.
Waiting for our dune buggies to arrive
We enjoyed a lovely lunch at Jardin de Celeste (Celestial Garden), a unique and beautiful outdoor restaurant that used to host the coffee bean pickers overnight before roads were readily available throughout the country. We then travelled on to our next stop-- and one we’d been looking forward to all day... the Apaneca Aventura buggy tour! None of us had ever driven a dune buggy before, so we eagerly hopped in, donned our safety glasses (it can get muddy this time of year) and we were off, weaving our way up the mountains in search of ancient volcanic lakes. Rocky unpaved trails, ledges, steep cliffs and bumps made it a challenge to drive, and made it all that more exciting for us. What a rush! Muscles sore from previous days of double surf sessions combined with the bounce of the dune buggies had us all looking forward to our last stop... the Santa Teresa Hot Springs. Now these hot springs are no ordinary springs, where you sit in raw mud, almost like a watering hole, and breathe in the sulfur normally found in hot springs. Quite the contrary. This was a deluxe experience for all of us, as we delved into the hottest of the pools to choose from, near the bar and restaurant overlooking all the other beautifully landscaped cascading pools below.
One of the most amazing waterfalls we’ve ever been to... the Juayana Cascades
The water smelled fresh- not of sulfur, and warmed us to the core as we soaked, did headstands, and explored the other nearby pools. The manicured grounds combined with specialty stonework and gigantic natural rocks in the pools were a nice compliment to the boutique-style bathrooms and showering facilities... This was the perfect way to end our day. The next day we left bright and early for an exploration along the west coast, in search of waves. El Zonte had some morning sickness on it, so we then headed on to K59 and K61, where the tide wasn’t quite high enough to make it workable. So we hopped back in the van once again, and headed further north to see George at Mizata Surf Resort, who was our lunch stop and chill-out zone for the day as well as our late morning surf session. Upon arrival, the surf was on the rise, so we hurried to the beach break and charged into some solid, and somewhat bumpy surf, before heading back to the resort for George’s famous 4-napkin burgers and fish tacos, a juicy and rewarding treat we’d been looking forward to. The next morning, we again piled into the van, and this time, headed East to the world class surf break, Las Flores. This right hand point break is a great wave for almost all levels of surfing, depending on the swell size, and once again, it did not disappoint. After checking in at the conveniently located Atlakamani Surf resort, perched on the hill above Las Flores, we grabbed our boards and headed down the hill to enjoy some surf that was surprisingly empty of the usual surf crowd! Thank God for the World Cup that was keeping most of the surfers in front of the TV instead of in the waves! We had met up with Chilean surfer, Paula, and her husband Sebastian, who graciously watched their son while Paula joined us in the waves. With only our group out for over an hour, we traded wave after wave, rooting each other on, and hooting with excitement as we each charged down the line. Lunch was eaten at Atlakamani with delight and a nap was seriously in order after our long session, after which we woke up, and ran down for one more hour of waves before sunset. What a perfect day! More surf, more eating, luxurious massages for the girls from the very talented Irma Estrada of The Relax Spot, and our week was complete. It was time to return to reality, and head for the airport. Wave drenched and surf stoked... we looked forward to seeing each other again in the waves someday soon. Goodbye El Salvador... Until next time! Stay at Casa Sunzal and enjoy this beautiful home, close to some of the world’s best waves! www.homeaway.co.uk/p509819vb Book an amazing massage with Irma Estrada-Silva by emailing her at therelaxspot@gmail.com, or learn more online at www.ElRelaxSpot.com Enjoy an adventure filled day with the BEST tour guide company in El Salvador... Cuscatlan Tours! With safe, professional, door-to-door service, we highly recommend them, and know you won’t be disappointed! www.cuscatlantours.com 42 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Dana awards the hot pink (Fins Unlimited) fins to Karen for pushing herself out in the gigantic surf that day
Lunch at Jardin de Celeste
Dune buggies are a BLAST and a must-do on your trip to El Salvador. Check out Apaneca Aventura Buggy Tours
Santa Teresa Hot Springs... LUXURY!
The charming town of El Tunco is a short walk from Casa Sunzal
Karen swings through the trees during our Acanepa Canopy Tour
Thank you to our WSSM Retreat Tour sponsors: Caroline Rocha (carolinerocha.com), Fins Unlimited (finsunlimited.com), Sikk Shades by Eddie Bauer Jr. (sikkshades.com)
Dana enjoying a wave to herself at Sunzal wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 43
RAILS & TALES . . . El Salvador
BIG Sunday By Karen Monteagudo
I arrived in El Salvador on Saturday afternoon, met the gang, had lunch, and then went into town in search of a board to rent. I longboard, so that is what I was in search of. I didn’t think it would be such a mission, but it was. The first place we went to had los of longboards, but prety much every single one had been broken in half and was repaired, but waterlogged. The board I finally found was no broken --but had a huge hole on the tail from the rope they used to attach the leash, unmatching fins that didn’t quite fit right, and a few cracks.
Stop #3
on the WSSM Retreat Tour of the Americas Chilean surfer, Paula, at Las Flores
After some doctoring up -- thanks Sandra and Dan! -- I was ready for my first surf. We paddled out to Sunzal that afternoon. The waves were about overhead. I was a bit nervous, it being my first time surfing there and the waves being a decent size. It was also a bit crowded. I stayed near the channel and Sandra kep calling me over, closer to the peak. I hesitantly moved closer. After a while of prodding -- thanks again, Sandra! -- I finally caught my first wave. Success! No too scary after all. I caught about six more waves after that. I was very happy for my first day. Lo and behold, the next day was much bigger. Dana and I paddled out. Getting through the shorebreak was a mission... It was easily double overheard and bigger, and all the best surfers were out. The sets were coming in prety consistently. Needless to say, I stayed as close to the channel as possible. Being on a longboard, I didn’t want to get caught inside when the sets came through. Dana kep calling me over closer to the shoulder. I kep nodding my head: no today!
Sandra at Sunzal... sometimes sharing waves gets creative in a crowd
I spent about 85% of the time paddling out to get over the waves, and every time I made it over one wave, there was an even bigger one behind it. “Keep paddling,” I told myself. My heart was beating out of my chest. I made it over all of them that day. Gabriel even go some pictures of me paddling out and over. It was really cool being out there and watching all the guys catching the set waves at the peak from close up. It was probably one of the biggest days I’ve ever been out in. I ended up only catching one wave that day, but I was just proud of myself for being out there. A day I’ll never forget. At the end, getting back on the beach through the shorebreak proved to be the biggest challenge that day. Dana actually ended up breaking her beautiful board trying to get out, and back on shore. Such a bummer after such an epic day. I guess that explains all the broken long boards for rent. Just one of many great days in El Salvador!! Thanks to a great crew -- Sandra, Dana, Gabriel, and Dan. It was an unforgettable trip.” Karen, Dan & Sandra at Sunzal beach
Dana ripping at Las FLores 44 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Casa Sunzal... the perfect beach house!
Dana mourns her (new) broken board at Sunzal
Dana, Karen, Sandra & Dan at Las Flores
Dan on an outside set at Sunzal
Dana heads out to Mizata Point
Karen at Sunzal... ready for some epic waves!
Karen honing her big wave skills at Sunzal wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 45