Club + Resort Chef July 2022

July 2022 www.clubandresortchef.com

Competitive Advantages The Patterson Club’s leadership team, including Executive Chef Geoffrey Lanez, MBA, CEC, is leveraging their experiences and perspectives to improve food and beverage.

INSIDE Service That Goes the Extra Mile Controlling Food Costs Balancing Creativity With Comfort

E D I TO R ’ S M E M O

WHAT DID YOU HEAR ME SAY? HAVE YOU EVER HAD A CONVERSATION with some-

one who wouldn’t maintain eye contact with you?

Or who grunted at inappropriate pauses, nodded at seemingly random moments, or interrupted you halfway through a thought?

I will be the first to admit that I have many pet peeves. But when someone doesn’t actively listen or cue properly during a conversation, I am quick to lose interest in the conversation.

Active listening is a critical part of communication.

Listening helps you build genuine and honest relationships. It motivates the person you’re communicating with and entices them to collaborate with you.

Active listening makes the person you’re conversing with feel like you genuinely care about the words they are saying and the thoughts they are sharing.

Growing up, my dad was known as the guy who put his proverbial foot in his mouth. He misspoke and was misunderstood at every turn, despite having the best intentions.

As a result, I’ve always been very cautious about how I listen and respond during a conversation. It may be a big part of why I became a writer and editor.

listen actively. Midway through our conversation, he stopped and asked me, “I want to make sure I didn’t misspeak. What did you hear me say?”

This question caught me off guard. As someone who prioritizes listening, I appreciated that he valued my comprehension of his communication. I distilled his points down and laid them back out for him. Then we moved on.

Good teams communicate well and often. Great teams share ideas, ask for feedback, have healthy conflicts, actively listen to one another and check for comprehension. We may disagree, but we know how to work through our differences because we fully understand one another’s side.

Life is busy. Kitchens are even busier. As a leader of your operation, you cannot allow listening to your cooks and colleagues become a secondary priority.

Take their communication seriously and you will set your culinary operation up for success.

Being intentional about strong communication makes all the difference.

Active listening requires three steps: 1.

Focus entirely on the speaker, 2. understand their message, 3. and comprehend the information.

A few weeks ago, I had a meeting with a senior-level colleague. He had a lot to cover, and I did my best to

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EDITOR Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

www.clubandresortchef.com

THE NEW SOUS

GETTING TO KNOW THE CLUB INDUSTRY BEFORE MARCH, I had never see the inside of a club.

But when I heard there was an opening with Club + Resort Chef, I wanted to learn more. I knew it to be a great magazine, and I was eager to become an editor in a culinary-focused segment of the foodservice industry.

I like to travel, and I’ve always maintained that there’s something worth seeing—and eating—in every corner of the world. I’ve had my share of good food and interesting (sometimes unforgettable) meals: kottu roti in Sri Lanka, sautéed reindeer in Finland, budae-jjigae in Korea, aukstā zupa in Latvia, cuy in Peru and amok in Cambodia, to name a few.

Since March, I’ve been fortunate enough to see the food and beverages operations inside The Union Club of Cleveland, Westwood Country Club (Westlake, Ohio), Lakewood Country Club (Westlake, Ohio) and Ansley Golf Club (Atlanta, Ga.). And in my short time as an editor for Club + Resort Chef, I’ve eaten some of the best food I’ve had in my life—anywhere. I’ve been continuously impressed and constantly aware of how much I’ll have to learn about the club culinary world.

If you saw me at the 2022 Chef to Chef Conference in Nashville, I’d been at this job for two weeks. I was in

over my head—but I’m glad I was there. It was as good an introduction to this industry as one could have.

Since then, I’ve been inspired by club chefs’ knowledge—your endless drive to build your repertoire. In the face of myriad challenges, you show up every day to ensure members are happy and teams have what they need to succeed.

Most of all, I’m inspired by the kindness I’ve encountered, your sense of humor, and your readiness to drive a culture that values sharing ideas, work-life balance and equity. Club chefs seem to go out of their way to make room for others at the table.

By the next Chef to Chef Conference (March 5th through 8th in Miami), I hope I’ll recognize many more faces in the crowd. Until then, if you have a story idea, a recipe to share, or you’d just like to say hi, I’m here.

Thanks, Chefs, for your hospitality—and for letting me help tell your story.

SENIOR EDITOR Isabelle Gustafson igustafson@wtwhmedia.com 216-296-2041

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CONTENTS D

July • Vol. 11 • Issue 4

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Behind the Plate

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Competitive Advantages

Catherine DiQuinzio, Chef de Cuisine, Bonnie Briar Country Club, shares her vegan ‘scallops’ recipe.

Geo Lanez, MBA, CEC, Executive Chef of The Patterson Chef Geoffrey Lanez, MBA, CEC, is leveraging their experiences and perspectives to improve food and beverage.

How TCC Thrives Under Pressure 12 Executive Chef Joseph Leonardi, CMC, AAC, relies on RATIONAL to help him and his team be more efficient and productive.

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Stepping Into a New Leadership Role Palmetto Bluff Club’s newly appointed Executive Chef is eager to learn the ins and outs of the culinary operation and work with the team to evolve and improve.

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Club Chefs Balance Creativity With Comfort Successful club menus provide enough options that are simultaneously innovative, appealing and familiar.

A Toast to Summertime Breads 20 When it comes to baking up new breads for summer, these chefs are on a roll.

Five Fortified Wines to Try 24 Fortifi ed wines’ strength and aromatic quality make them perfect for members who want to sip something special.

That Goes the Extra Mile 26 It’sService all hands on deck for full- and part-time staff managing events of all sizes.

Controlling Food Costs 28 Club and resort chefs must understand the delicate balance between controlling costs and satisfying members.

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How a Strong Leader Supports the Culinary Team On the heels of a $1.5 million kitchen renovation, Rockaway Hunting Club looks to its culinary program, planned additions, and Executive Chef Matt DeCarolis for continued success.

2 Editor’s Memo 4 The New Sous www.clubandresortchef.com

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BEHIND THE PLATE

Catherine DiQuinzio, Chef de Cuisine Bonnie Briar Country Club, Larchmont, NY

CATHERINE DIQUINZIO, CHEF DE CUISINE of Bonnie Briar Country Club (Larchmont, N.Y.), believes club chefs must creatively accommodate every member’s needs and dietary requests. So, when she was asked to prepare an off-menu vegan dish, she jumped at the opportunity.

“I wanted to create something that would ‘wow’ this member,” she says.

After researching ingredients and scouring the cooler, it came to her: vegan scallops made with king trumpet mushrooms “to create the illusion that our member was eating a scallop dish.”

Vegan ‘Scallops’ with pea purée YIELD: 12 SERVINGS INGREDIENTS FOR PEA PURÉE:

2 cups 1 ea.

1/2 tsp.

6 leaves to taste to taste 1/4 cup

peas avocado garlic powder mint salt pepper water

PROCEDURE FOR PEA PURÉE:

1. Cook the peas in a steamer or pot.

2.. Drain the peas, and place them in the robot coupe with the rest of the ingredients. Blend until smooth. Reserve.

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INGREDIENTS FOR SCALLOPS:

2 ea.

3 sprigs to taste to taste 1 tsp.

king trumpet mushrooms fresh thyme salt pepper avocado oil

PROCEDURE FOR SCALLOPS:

1. Cut the king trumpet mushroom stems into even circles. Take a sharp paring knife and score the mushroom (just enough to make a visible line) diagonally into an ‘X.’ 2. Season the mushrooms with fresh thyme, salt and pepper.

3. In a sauté pan on medium heat, add avocado oil. Once the pan is hot, add the mushrooms until golden brown. Set aside.

4. Optional: Once the dish is ready to plate, add vegan butter to the pan and heat.

TO SERVE: Spoon and swoosh pea purée on a plate, then top with ‘scallops’ and garnish with spring vegetables and micros.

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CLUB PROFILE

Competitive Advantages The leaders of The Patterson Club are leveraging their experiences and perspectives to improve all aspects of the club’s food and beverage program.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor

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STRONG LEADERS CAN transform their operations. They chart a course from here to there and point the team in the right direction with clear, step-by-step instructions that outline the how, when and why.

At The Patterson Club in Fairfield, Conn., Geoffrey Lanez, CEC, MBA, Executive Chef, and Lindsey Levine, Director of Food & Beverage, exemplify effective leadership. They value and support their teams. They lean on one another’s strengths. They are transparent and excel at communication.

The work they’ve done collectively over the past year, along with the groundwork Lanez had done before Levine’s arrival, set a new foundation for growth at The Patterson Club that www.clubandresortchef.com

will have a lasting impact on the culinary program and the individuals within the team.

SETTING A FRAMEWORK Lanez has a solid culinary pedigree.

As an undergraduate student at Johnson & Wales University (JWU) in Providence, R.I., he began building a name for himself by competing on the student level and studying under prominent chefs, including Joseph Leonardi, CMC, AAC, Director of Culinary at The Country Club (Brookline, Mass.).

After graduation, Lanez went on to earn his MBA from JWU and further established himself through his education, advanced training, certification and participation in various national

Geoffrey Lanez, CEC, MBA, Executive Chef, The Patterson Club

and international competitions.

Before joining The Patterson Club as Executive Chef in April 2019, he was the Executive Sous Chef of the Somerset Club in Boston, Mass.

“The [Patterson] Club had suffered a great deal of turnover within its culinary leadership,” says Lanez. “Three or four chefs had come and gone in about five years.”

Lanez knew he’d have his work cut out, but he was ready for the challenge.

“We started from the bottom and used the disruption as an opportunity to restart with a new, stronger foundation,” he says.

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CLUB PROFILE

The Patterson Club’s 40-person culinary team stretches across four kitchens, serving the Grill Room, Banks Dining Room and Patio, The Turn, snack bar and banquet operation. The club does $2 million in annual F&B.

Most practically, this meant deepcleaning the kitchen and teaching the staff the fundamentals of cookery and culinary ops. It also meant writing standard operating procedures for all parts of the operation, from menu switches to inventory and receiving to sanitation and food-handling.

“I was told that the priority was to fix the food, but I learned very quickly that I couldn’t fix the food unless I first fixed the team’s culture,” says Lanez.

His goal, albeit lofty, was to unlock the team dynamics he was accustomed to at his previous post. He wanted his staff to make better decisions, increase productivity, drive culinary innovation and have higher levels of engagement.

“I threw the whole world at them and gave them the chance to accept it or move on,” says Lanez.

Some stayed, and others left. Those who stayed subscribed to the plans Lanez had laid out, and these individuals have become valuable members of The Patterson Club’s 40-person culinary team. They went back to basics and focused on fundamentals. They evaluated the membership needs and wants. They developed relationships with vendors and sourced higher-quality ingredients.

Today, the culinary program at The Patterson Club stretches across four pristine kitchens, serving the Grill Room, 10

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Banks Dining Room and Patio, The Turn, snack bar and banquet operation. With 450 members, the club does $2 million in annual F&B, and its culinary philosophy is simple and direct: Execute at the highest quality.

“I want to change what people think of the club culinary industry,” says Lanez. “I want them to know that if they work here, they can take days off; they don’t have to miss every birthday party or wedding, and they will create incredible food and get a deeper education along the way.”

COMPETE TO LEARN Lanez took the downtime during the pandemic to restart and rebuild the operation pragmatically and systematically.

“We used the time as productively as we could to safely train the team, create new systems and catch up, so when the world reopened, we’d be better positioned to thrive,” says Lanez.

With the pandemic mainly in the rearview, Lanez wants his team to spread their wings and continue to develop as technical culinarians. He has been encouraging them to compete in many of the same competitions he’s participated in.

“Competition enhances learning,” says Lanez. “These events expose cooks to different skills and people, and they encourage mastery in an effort-based way. In my experience,

the approach one takes to competition translates to everyday work habits.”

Thanks to Lanez, The Patterson Club supports a culture of competition by paying for travel and expenses and giving employees the time off to compete.

“My favorite Elon Musk quote sums up my theory on competition,” says Lanez. “‘If other people are putting in 40-hour work weeks, and you’re putting in 100-hour work weeks, then even if you’re doing the same thing, you know that you will achieve in 4 months what it takes them a year to achieve.’ It means that competitions and the prep leading up to them will help me and my team learn faster.”

A PERFECT MATCH When a capable club chef like Lanez is buttressed by an equally ambitious director of food & beverage in a property ripe for change, the pathway to success becomes more precise, robust and dynamic.

Levine started at The Patterson Club in January of 2021 on the heels of a profoundly successful career in full-service restaurants. She has opened and managed Michelin-starred restaurants all over New York City. She has built beverage programs from scratch and received dozens of awards for her work.

Levine was eager to impact a different side of the foodservice industry. www.clubandresortchef.com

Director of Food & Beverage Lindsey Levine (top right corner of the right image, pink shirt) has transformed the service environment at The Patterson Club. She prioritizes training, education and the club’s prevailing service-minded philosophy.

When the position opened at The Patterson Club, she was intrigued.

“I loved the idea of having an offseason to analyze and reset,” she says.

“In full-service restaurants, you tend to put a band-aid on everything. There’s never any time. I was attracted to the idea of being able to strategize and fix problems at their root. I was also eager to have a less transactional experience with guests.”

At The Patterson Club, cash is never exchanged. The focus is entirely on hospitality and service. Since coming on board, Levine has gone over the front-of-house operation with a finetoothed comb. She has restructured service styles and drafted a vision for her team. She has built extensive and ongoing training programs for the staff, too.

“Our team must understand that their role is to create a member experience,” she says. “In a club, we’re not trying to drive revenue. We’re here to provide a service that can’t be found elsewhere.”

That philosophy applies to how Lanez manages the culinary side as well as to the experience crafted in the dining room.

“When the staff understands the food and culture of the club, they take ownwww.clubandresortchef.com

ership of it, and that creates a community between the employee, employer, manager and member,” says Levine.

“I call it ‘FBS,’ and it stands for Food Beverage Service. All three things must match and operate on the same level, like a kick line.”

Levine persuaded the board to invest in support, training, programming and education for all of her staff members in the same way they support competition for culinarians.

“We have 31 service points, and we discuss one daily,” says Levine. “Training is ongoing and ubiquitous. Chef and I have weekly meetings to discuss the positives and the negatives. Everything we do, we share. And our solutions are always reinforced by our why.”

MAKING IT THEIR MISSION Both Lanez and Levine want to reshape the hospitality labor landscape.

Lanez is eager to fix work-life balance for chefs and cooks, while Levine intends to create a well-rounded food-andbeverage environment for front-of-house employees that isn’t reliant on tips.

“We both want the same thing,” says Levine. “We want to create a deeper sense of professionalism around hospitality and culinary—and the only way

we’ll get there is by starting here.”

In March 2022, The Patterson Club hired Tom Bartek, CCM, CCE, as its new General Manager. Both Levine and Lanez were involved in the search.

They outlined the characteristics they wanted in a manager, and both managers were delighted by the hire.

Bartek has a culinary background and graduated from JWU, just like Lanez. He has had an impressive management career in prestigious clubs, including Bryn Mawr Country Club (Lincolnwood, Ill.) and Montammy Golf Club (Alpine, N.J.).

“My first impression of The Patterson Club was that there was already much structure in place,” says Bartek. “I gather a great deal of that can be attributed to [Lanez] and [Levine]. But I appreciate these managers’ eagerness to improve as leaders and help their teams grow as professionals. “[Lanez] is humble and attentive,” he adds. “He knows his strengths and weaknesses and has worked to improve both. [Levine] is as strong a manager as I’ve had the honor of working with. With these two capable managers at the helm, the future of The Patterson Club—and the industry as a whole—is bright.” C+RC July 2022

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PRODUCTS AT WORK

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How TCC Thrives Under Pressure Executive Chef Joseph Leonardi, CMC, AAC, relies on RATIONAL to help him and his team be more efficient and productive.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor

WHAT SEPARATES THE COUNTRY CLUB (Brookline, Mass.)—host of the 2022 U.S. Open—from others is its team’s ability to perform in high-pressure situations, whether on the course or in the kitchen.

Joseph Leonardi, CMC, AAC, Director of Culinary Operations, is a prime example. He has been with TCC for over six years and has accomplished much during his tenure. He says a great deal of his success comes from his ability to prepare and plan, be organized and intentional, and consistently meet the demands of challenging situations.

Take his approach to sous vide cooking. When Leonardi was a member of the American Culinary Federation (ACF) Culinary Team USA, he learned much about sous vide and was introduced to RATIONAL combi ovens during his time abroad.

“The ease of use and the efficiency of the RATIONAL combis impressed me,” says Leonardi.

Up to that point, TCC relied on circulators for sous vide cooking. Leonardi was eager to replace the circulators with equipment that would be simpler for his staff of more than 30 cooks to use while also delivering consistent results.

“I went to a RATIONAL training in Chicago where I was able to spend time with the corporate chefs,” says Leonardi. “I took what I learned there and created a presentation for my General Manager and Board here at TCC. I explained the impact these ovens would have on the operation and how that impact would far outweigh the cost. I showed them that if we had these units, we would save on labor and improve quality and consistency for the long term.” www.clubandresortchef.com

The club approved the purchase, and Leonardi invested in two RATIONAL iCombi Pros. The impact was immediate. TCC’s culinary team could cook with more control and precision on a larger scale than ever before.

A few years later, TCC invested in another two units, and just before COVID, the club added a self-venting unit to its combi arsenal.

“We chose the self-venting unit so we could place it in an area of the kitchen that’s accessible by both garde manger and banquets,” says Leonardi.

Because the combis can bake, roast, grill, deep-fry, poach and sous vide, they’re helpful to all parts of the operation. TCC chefs and managers can also log in to ConnectedCooking—RATIONAL’s secure online platform—to check recipes, update software and access HACCP data from their smartphones.

“I can’t speak for other clubs, but for me and my staff here at [TCC], these units are vital to our HACCP program,” says Leonardi.

When TCC first purchased the units, Leonardi relied on many of the pre-programmed recipes. As he and his team have grown more comfortable with the ovens, they have developed many of their own recipes, which Leonardi programs into the units. In doing so, TCC maintains consistency across menus no matter the cook’s skill level in the kitchen.

“For any chefs considering purchasing a RATIONAL, it’s a no-brainer,” says Leonardi. “Our units have helped us improve so many different parts of the operation.

They make our recipes foolproof and our operations more efficient. I can’t stress enough how impactful they have been here at [TCC].” C+RC July 2022

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CHEF TO CHEF

Stepping Into a New Leadership Role

Palmetto Bluff Club’s newly appointed Executive Chef is eager to learn the ins and outs of the culinary operation and work with the team to evolve and improve.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor

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TAKING ON A NEW ROLE as Executive Chef at a storied club comes with challenges. There are subcultures within the team that must be navigated and overcome. There’s a membership base whose trust must be won. And there are expectations for an immediate improvement to the food and often the service, too.

Seasoned chefs who were once key members of a culinary team have to essentially start over, proving themselves and their abilities to the cooks, managers and members. It’s not easy, but it is possible with hard work, self-awareness,

patience and immersion.

Rhy Waddington knows this journey well, as he is only a few months into his new role as Executive Chef of the Palmetto Bluff Club (Bluffton, S.C.). After serving as Executive Chef of Winged Foot Golf Club (Mamaroneck, N.Y.) for more than a decade, he has embraced the newness of Palmetto Bluff, and he’s eager to improve upon an already impressive culinary program.

Club + Resort Chef (C+RC): Why did you decide to leave Winged Foot?

What was the transition like?

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Rhy Waddington (RW): Winged Foot is such a special place, and the club played a huge role in my life and career.

I was at Winged Foot for more than 12 years, and while I loved my job, I was looking for a new challenge, an opportunity to lead multiple teams and make an impact in a different market.

As I’ve grown as a chef, I get great satisfaction in teaching and mentoring the next generation of culinarians. Knowing that my Executive Sous Chef from Winged Foot, Chrissie Bennett, was promoted to Executive Chef was one of the most gratifying moments in my career. [Bennett] is an absolute talent who has worked hard and deserves all the recognition she gets.

I hope to mentor the culinary team here at Palmetto Bluff similarly.

C+RC: Tell us about your new property.

RW: Palmetto Bluff Club is 20,000 acres nestled along the May River, and it is one of the most beautiful properties I’ve ever seen. Once you enter the gates, it’s a six-mile drive to the first village. The road is framed with large oak trees skirted in Spanish moss.

Under the Palmetto Bluff Club umbrella, we have eight kitchens, a 1950s fire truck converted into a wood-fired pizza truck, and a working farm with six acres planted for the summer. We plan on building a large commissary kitchen at the farm that will help support the current restaurants and act as a training center for our culinary team.

The commissary kitchen will house our bakery and pastry department, led by our Executive Pastry Chef Jae Newby.

We will also have a butcher and banquet kitchen.

We have a growing membership of approximately 1,200 members, and we do about $8.4 million in annual F&B. C+RC: What do you think the club already does well from a culinary perspective?

RW: Palmetto Bluff has always had great southern hospitality. We bring that hospitality to the forefront of everything we do—from our member services to how we interact with our teammates.

C+RC: Where do you see the most F&B potential in the program?

RW: It all starts at the farm! It is the heart and soul of our culinary team. We meet weekly at the farm to discuss the week’s events, menu changes and available produce for the weekly menu changes.

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We have so many fantastic local ingredients to feature from our property and beyond, including May River oysters, flounder, spotted trout, Cheshire Pork from North Carolina—and the list continues.

Our community is important to us, and we want to support our neighbors as much as possible.

C+RC: How do you hope to capitalize on that potential?

RW: We have built strong relationships with local farmers and purveyors. We invite them to speak at our weekly culinary meetings to add an educational aspect for our staff. For example, our local fishmonger talked about the available fish for the week and specific boats and locations where the fish has been caught. And one of our members is one of the world’s leading olive oil tasters. We held a class for our staff about olive oil with him leading it.

Above all, we want to invest in our team members so that they grow as culinarians and, in return, have a rewarding work environment.

Our team members and their growth are essential to my role. We have implemented a 4% service charge for hourly culinary staff to help attract the best of the best chefs, cooks and interns.

C+RC: What have been some of the other changes or improvements you’ve made thus far?

RW: The most significant impact we have had is menu changes and frequency of menu changes, highlighting local purveyors and adding a Chef de Cuisine for each outlet. The feedback has been fantastic, and I look forward to growing meaningful relationships with the membership.

We are creating a culture of inclusion and ownership.

I’m lucky to have such an engaged team of professionals and a fantastic Executive Sous Chef named Don Yamauchi.

C+RC: You’re also about to bike across the country.

Can you tell us more about that?

RW: I’m incredibly excited about this! Rhonda Vetere, a good friend from Winged Foot, asked me to join her team for Race Across America (RAAM), the longest and most challenging road race in the world. We are raising funds to support veterans and first responders’ mental health and suicide awareness. We are aiming to raise $1 million. C+RC (Learn more at www.alignedalliance.org.)

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FOOD

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Club Chefs Balance Creativity With Comfort Successful club menus provide enough options that are simultaneously innovative, appealing and familiar.

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

AT THE PANDEMIC’S PEAK, members clung to the familiar, and comfort foods saw an unprecedented resurgence in popularity. While the definition of comfort food is subjective, mainly based on region or nostalgia, members reached for their own versions wherever they could find them.

Now, as members gather, clubs find themselves in a position where they must walk the line between menuing the foods members know and love and offering trendier dishes they might like to try.

At Stonegate Golf Club in Kissimmee, Fla., comfort foods equate to liver and onions, prime rib and fried catfish, says Executive Chef Nezzar Battle.

He and his staff make sure to always listen to members about what they want to eat, he says, and they pay close attention to buying patterns. Liver and onion, prime rib and fried catfish nights “always sell out.”

More squarely aligned with greater pandemic trends, pizza, too, has been hugely popular among Stonegate GC’s 5,000 members, says Battle, both by the slice and whole pies.

“Right now, I sell about 480 pizzas a day,” he says. “[In addition to our main menu], we have a display window where we feature specials. I encourage the staff come up with creative pizzas that they want to make.”

The club’s three restaurants include a bar and grill; a steakand-seafood restaurant with rotating themes; and a bistro for made-from-scratch pizzas, plus salads and sandwiches.

Other menu mainstays include a bourbon-flamed peach salad—an unexpected hit—as well as mahi-mahi and crab cakes, the latter inspired by Battle’s time in D.C. He’s originally from Jacksonville, Fla., and lives in Orlando now.

But Battle spent time in Alaska, Colorado, and California and www.clubandresortchef.com

says he incorporates regional foods and lessons from each on his menus.

“I used to roll so much sushi in California,” he recalls. “Now we have a spicy tuna tartare that I can’t take off the menu.”

COMMON GROUND At Coral Bay Club, a seasonal property with 600 members and two dining areas in Atlantic Beach, N.C., “any kind of fish dish” does well, says Executive Chef Genevieve Guthrie. Examples include fried shrimp, soft-shell crab bites, shrimp and grits, poke bowl, spicy tuna bowl, and zing-zing tacos, with battered shrimp tossed in a mild, slightly sweet sauce with Asian slaw and pico de gallo.

Stonegate GC’s spicy tuna tartare, a member favorite, was inspired by Executive Chef Nezzar Battle’s time in California.

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FOOD

Stonegate GC’s bourbon-flamed peach salad (pictured right) was a “a huge hit,” says Executive Chef Nezzar Battle, and is now a menu mainstay.

“We also do a pecan-dusted flounder meunière,” she says.

“We pan-sear the flounder then top it with a lemon-wine-herb sauce and crab meat.”

Other staples include the sandbar salad—with shrimp, crab, mango, heart of palm, oranges, spiced pecans, coconut and a light citrus vinaigrette—and a summer salad with seared salmon, spinach, strawberries, blueberries, mango and oranges. It’s finished with a poppyseed citrus vinaigrette and spiced pecans.

Coral Bay Club’s members are relatively health-conscious, says Guthrie. Still, it’s a tricky balance, determining what to keep, add or 86 based on what members say they want versus what they order.

“We survey members at the end of the year,” Guthrie says, “and of course, they’re all saying, ‘healthy, healthy, healthy.’

But then they revert to fried shrimp and soft-shell crab. We do our best to find common ground.”

The other challenge, she notes, is keeping menus fresh without overwhelming operations.

“Our season is mainly from Memorial Day to Labor Day,” she says. “Historically, we changed the menu monthly, but that made it hard to train staff—especially with ongoing labor challenges. Now we change [the menu] around the Fourth of July. But we still offer features and a fresh catch daily.”

Comfort foods with a seafood focus—like this cioppino from Stonegate GC—are especially popular.

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A MORE EDUCATED CONSUMER While Coral Bay Club’s membership is “pretty open to trying new and innovative concepts,” says Guthrie, chef’s tables allow her and her staff to shine, on- and off-season.

Members who come to a chef’s table event are more adventurous, as they don’t know what the menu will be, she notes. “They come in for the experience.”

Milwaukee (Wisc.) Athletic Club’s Executive Chef, Tom McGinty, agrees that members and guests are eager for new, in-person experiences, and they’re more educated about what they eat than ever before. This puts club chefs in a challenging but exciting position.

“We have to make sure we’re aware of what’s happening from a trend perspective so we can create dishes that are compelling,” he says.

The 140-year-old club, with 850 members, reopened this year following a $62 million renovation. It now features a rooftop restaurant that’s open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus another restaurant that’s yet to open but will feature additional daily lunch offerings and a Friday night fish fry.

Upon reopening, the club stuck with some of its greatest hits, McGinty says, while gradually introducing new flavors and ingredients. The goal was to blend trending dishes with more familiar ones to reinvigorate menus.

“Comfort food is evolving and becoming a bit more sophisticated,” he says. “We do a salmon dish, but we serve it with ancient grains, including sorghum berry.”

A new comfort-focused summer hummus dish at the club features sweet potato, tahini and za’atar spice.

And the oyster mushroom shawarma—made with crispy oyster mushrooms seasoned with a shawarma spice— features a tzatziki sauce made with coconut yogurt, so it’s vegan-friendly.

On its winter menu, Milwaukee Athletic Club serves macaroni and cheese with “a more artisanal approach,” McGinty says, made using taleggio and brie instead of cheddar and American.

“Members are always going to order mac and cheese,” he says, “but if you can offer them something a little bit different within the familiar, it’s a win for everyone.” C+RC

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PASTRY

A Toast to Summe

When it comes to baking up new breads for summer, these chefs are on a roll.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

AS THE SUMMER KICKS into high gear and club menus are magically transformed for the onslaught of cookouts, picnics, weddings and other outdoor events, so too are breads and rolls that must stand up to condiments, barbecued meats and other warm-weather ingredients.

While the heavier textures and crusts of holiday table breads are put on the back burner in favor of lighter flavors, chefs are finding ways to incorporate new items into their repertoire—not only for those members who relish a juicy burger, but for the calorie-counting, health-conscious clubgoer as well.

FRESH AND FLAVORFUL At Glen Oaks Country Club in West Des Moines, Iowa, Pastry Chef Lindsey Richards is focused on creating breads and rolls that take sandwiches to a whole new level. After spending the past five years perfecting her craft—she moved up from the role of assistant pastry chef three years ago—Richards cut her proverbial teeth at the Venetian in Las Vegas, fresh out of culinary school.

“I trained under an amazing pastry chef there,” she says, “and it prepared me to work on my own as a pastry chef.”

With a concentration on breads that taste as good as they perform (handheld sandwiches are well-represented on the lunch menu), Richards has been seeing Lindsey Richards, a shift in top bread choices as of late.

Pastry Chef, “I am noticing that members are going Glen Oaks CC 20

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mertime Breads more toward brioche for buns, even for hot dogs,” she says.

On a recent menu, beef burgers, Iowa pork tenderloin, salmon burgers and chicken sandwiches were all enhanced by brioche buns.

Ciabatta, another selection that’s quickly becoming a club favorite, has earned a designated spot on the lunch lineup with a French dip hoagie, as well as a roll studded with Asiago cheese and sun dried tomato oil.

“In place of white or wheat bread, ciabatta holds up great on buffets,” she notes, “and the ciabatta bun doesn’t seem to get soggy when you add tomatoes or dressings to sandwiches.”

For summer events, Richards plans to keep things simple with white bread rolls. On the artisanal bread front, she expects to employ a sourdough starter that she began cultivating last year. And for those members with dietary restrictions, gluten-free and vegan rolls are also on the menu. For these, Richards swaps shortening in place of butter and almond milk in place of whole milk.

“I have found that the vanilla-flavored almond milk works well for sweet rolls,” she adds. “It adds a really nice flavor.”

VARIETY AND VERSATILITY Mixing up her bread menu with plenty of choices is the M.O. for Michaela Adams, Executive Pastry Chef at Willow Point Golf & Country Club (Alexander City, Ala.). The past four years heading up the club’s pastry department, after stints at clubs in North Carolina and Texas, have enabled Adams to fine-tune her selection and address a myriad of member tastes.

On the menu this summer, which is heating up to be a busy season, Adams will showcase French, Cuban and focaccia breads, along with pretzel and onion rolls. www.clubandresortchef.com

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PASTRY

“With supply chain constraints, the ingredients for these choices are easily attainable and easily scaled for large-scale production,” she notes of their practicality for cookouts, private parties and other member events.

Even though Adams makes a point of expanding bread and roll flavor profiles, she believes that classic recipes will remain at the forefront of her menu.

“Traditional burger buns will always dominate the varieties we offer,” she says. “A scratch-made soft bun is versatile, easy to produce and cost-effective.”

Of note on Willow Point’s menu is the classic burger enveloped in the signature ‘Michaela’s bun.’ While this bread is primarily designed for use with traditional condiments and toppings, it also holds up well on with the club’s ‘Instagram burger,’ topped with fried egg, avocado and bacon with pepper jack cheese.

Sliders, another summer selection, are making a strong presence at weddings and golf events. Because they can be made from the same dough as soft burger buns—albeit with some minor changes—slider buns are useful for mass production. And when it comes to creating a viable option for those members counting calories, flatbreads are the perfect answer.

“Their versatility is seemingly endless,” says Adams.

SUMMER SWEETNESS Desserts aren’t the only vehicle where sweetness prevails at North Ranch Country Club in Westlake Village, Calif.

Thanks to Executive Pastry Chef Robert Bogin, members are able to sample breads and rolls incorporating a widereaching flavor palate.

Bogin’s culinary creations are the result of a storied pastry career that began at the The Los Angeles Country Club and The Jonathan Club (also in Los Angeles), followed by the opening of his farm-totable restaurant Pedalers Fork in 2013.

“This venue served as the only restaurant, bike shop and coffee shop in the world,” says Bogin of the place where he experimented with different flavor pairings.

Much like the evolution of Bogin’s career, North Ranch’s bread program continues to grow with new creations starring locally produced ingredients.

North Ranch CC features a wide Among the latest range of buns on the menu, including Executive Pastry Chef breads is an IPA burger Robert Bogin’s squid ink brioche. bun, featuring Ventura, 22

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This summer at Willow Point G&CC in Alexander City, Ala., Executive Pastry Chef Michaela Adams will showcase French, Cuban and foccacia breads, along with pretzels and onion rolls.

Calif.-based Topa Topa Brewing Company’s Chief Peak IPA. “This bun has a sweetness and floral honey notes from Piru Canyon Ranch with Topa’s IPA tropical background flavors,” describes Bogin.

Other popular selections for summer include the brioche roll, for which Bogin uses Anchor butter from New Zealand, and a pretzel bun that has become a member favorite.

“This bun is tender and sweet and poached in a baking soda bath, which gives it a great crust and texture,” he says.

When putting together new summer bread recipes, Bogin likes to put a fresh spin on classics, exemplified by his pretzel hot dog and burger buns. He also enjoys taking his innovation to new heights, as he recently did when rendering a squid ink brioche bun for a mahi mahi burger.

“The sky’s the limit when it comes to bread,” he says.

His cornbread, another summer staple, is enhanced with plenty of butter, honey and brown sugar.

“This, baked in a cast-iron skillet, leaves an unbelievable texture and taste,” Bogin notes.

While sweet breads and rolls are core fixtures on North Ranch’s menu, Bogin also taps into his knowledge of healthconscious breads that he developed at Pedalers Fork. One of these standouts is his quinoa roll, a vegan roll that incorporates quinoa and whole wheat flour. He also prides himself on creating blends of gluten-free flours that are specific to each type of bread or recipe.

“I spent many hours in January tweaking and playing with a gluten-free pizza crust,” says Bogin, “which I can honestly say I like almost as much as my traditional pizza crust.”

Watch out, hamburger; those al fresco pizzas might just become a new summertime favorite. C+RC www.clubandresortchef.com

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BEVERAGE

5 Fortified Win Fortified wines’ strength and aromatic quality make them perfect for members who want to sip something special.

By Robert J Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET, Contributing Chef Editor

FORTIFIED WINES VARY IN color, flavor, origin and sweetness, yet they all have one thing in common: fortification.

Fortification is the addition of a distilled spirit to wine either during or after fermentation. This process increases alcohol content, thus killing off yeast and stopping fermentation. The English popularized fortification in the late 17th century to preserve wines for long sea voyages, and it hasn’t changed drastically since.

Most fortified wines today reflect what wine tasted like 300 years ago. Madeira, Marsala, port, sherry and vermouth are the most common. Despite being a touch out of vogue, sommeliers, chefs and clubhouse managers can find exceptional quality at a great price—if they know what to look for.

HOW IT’S MADE There are many ways to fortify wine. It’s not always as simple as adding a distilled spirit or brandy.

Madeira is heated and oxidized to replicate the voyage across the equator as part of its maturation process.

Sherry, a truly unique wine in the world, is exclusively produced in the wine-growing region of Jerez, which is situated in a triangle of land formed by the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. Sherry is typically fortified after the fermentation is complete, rendering most sherries initially dry, with the sweetness added after and aged using the Solera system of fractional blending.

Port is typically fortified halfway through fermentation before the sugar is turned into alcohol.

Vins doux naturels (VDNs), naturally sweet wines, 54 24

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have a long history rooted in the South of France and are considered the original fortified wine. These wines were perfected by Arnaud de Villeneuve, a director of the University of Montpellier and doctor at the court of Majorca, who discovered mutage, the basis behind this unique style of wine.

5 TYPES TO TRY Because each type of fortified wine is unique to its region, and most have variations in the production method, take a deep dive before you start selling them to your membership. (Though these wines make excellent additions to a club’s wine program, as they generally last forever, can be sipped slowly, and are unique.)

Here are a few of my favorites: MOSCATEL DE SETÚBAL If you’re looking to uncover a gem for your members, look no further. Moscatel de Setúbal comes from the southern part of Portugal and is an exceptionally wellvalued alternative to a tawny port.

The grape for Moscatel de Setúbal is Muscat of Alexandria, a white wine grape from the Muscat family of Vitis vinifera. It’s also one of the go-to grapes for fortified wine and can be pretty complex. With over 200 varieties, the fortified world favors two cultivars; Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (Italy’s Moscato Bianco) and Muscat of Alexandria (Spain and Portugal’s Muscatel).

Look for “superior” bottling, which requires additional aging and exhibits more depth and nutty flavors. The first sip of Moscatel de Setúbal will remind you of dried herbs, date www.clubandresortbusiness.com

Wines to Try paste, marmalade, roasted cashew and apricot compote.

When shopping for Moscatel de Setúbal, look for producers with quality reputations like Quinta da Bacalhôa or Adega de Palmela.

MUSCAT OF SAMOS Muscat of Samos is a simple sweet Muscat wine from the semi-mountainous island that bears the same name.

There are a few different varieties to choose from, including Vin Doux, Vin Nectar, Vin Doux Naturel Grand Cru and Anthemis. These quality tiers will help guide you.

As with most muscat wines, you’ll find flavors and aromas of dried apricot, white flowers like orange blossom, and tropical nuances of ripe pineapple, mango and peach. Quality Samos will have deeper notes of toasted almond and butter pecans. Some of my favorite producers are Kourtaki and Tsantali.

MUSCAT DE BEAUMES DE VENISE Established in 1943, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée-ranked wine made from grapes grown on vines at the foot of the Montmirail mountains in France.

Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is semi-sweet and must have a minimum residual sugar of 100 grams per liter in the final wine. This produces a tropical, honey-like flavor with hints of white flowers, dried apricot and golden raisin.

Look for quality producers like Domaine de Durban or Pierre Amadieu. www.clubandresortbusiness.com

RASTEAU VIN DOUX NATUREL Located in the Côtes du Rhône’s hot, Mediterranean climate, Rasteau wines are 90% Grenache. Rancio styles are produced with a minimum of two years of oxidative aging, often in glass carboys.

Grown on clay and limestone, the grape’s rootstock takes cover from the rounded cobblestone, which retains heat, storing it during the day and releasing it at night.

Your members will love the typical aromas and flavors of sweet mulberry, ripe blueberry, licorice, savory herbs, hints of earth, bitter cocoa and pine.

I have Domaine de Verquiére and Domaine de Beaurenard in my cellar.

RUTHERGLEN Rutherglen Muscat from Australia— also known as “stickies” because they’re so sweet—is one of my favorites. Four different classifications require increasing years of aging.

For the most part, Rutherglen wines have pronounced aromas of dried fruits like prunes, raisins and sultanas.

They have some secondary aroma from oak maturation of chocolate, coffee, nutmeg, spice, as well as a touch of vanilla. These aromas are mixed with complex tertiary notes from deliberate oxidation that come across as dark caramel, walnut and orange marmalade.

Some of my favorite producers are Campbells Rutherglen Muscat and RL Buller Fine Victoria Muscat. C+RC Julych 2022 Mar 2022l lClub Club++ Resort Resort Chef Chef 25

BANQUET

Service That Goes the

EXTRA MILE It’s all hands on deck for full- and part-time staff managing events of all sizes.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

AT THE HEIGHT OF wedding season, clubs are accented by the colorful dresses and suits of wedding parties and guests against a backdrop of black-and-white-clad personnel. With servers and waitstaff busily scurrying to and fro as they replenish bread baskets, clear away empty plates and make room for the next course, they signify a carefully orchestrated dance that assures efficiency and premiere service.

As they make up the past two years of limited gatherings imposed by pandemic restrictions, clubs have resumed full banquet operations, which requires staffing. While banquet managers fine-tune game plans for special events, they must create a service culture that attracts reliable employees and affirms a club’s stellar reputation.

LIKE FAMILY

Guided by Banquet Manager Paul Williams, Atlantic City CC staff have developed an eye for detail and perfect timing.

Rather than use staffing agencies, he employs extra part-time employees to work weddings and other large events.

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Banquet Manager Paul Williams prides himself on knowing his staff so well that when it comes to servicing an upcoming event at the Atlantic City Country Club (Northfield, N.J.), he is 100 percent confident his crew will get the job done.

“I try to train my staff to take my job because you are only as good as your team,” he says.

While he’s spent the past six years at the club, Williams got his start just down the road at Harrah’s Hotel and Casino, filling in when the banquet manager was on vacation. Before heading up banquets at ACCC, he began as restaurant manager and learned the business from the bottom up.

While Williams’ banquet staff is separate from the club’s restaurant, he relies on a core group of employees who have outside jobs, including two teachers, a fireman and a pharmacy technician. Rather than use staffing agencies, he employs extra part-time staffers to work weddings and other larger events. Like his permanent crew, these workers juggle their shifts with other work and school commitments. To ensure that his banquet team maintains specific standards www.clubandresortchef.com

When creating a welcoming environment for Lake of Isles guests, the Director of Catering, Bethany Arico (pictured in blue), advises staff not to underestimate the power of having a smile on their faces.

of excellence, Williams strives to create an environment of respect and knowledge, bolstered by his constant coaching.

“Never settle for status quo,” he says. “You should constantly be looking to improve because who is great today will be average tomorrow.”

Besides creating memorable table settings and displaying proper etiquette, Williams and his staff have developed an eye for detail and perfect timing. He likens the ability to finetune his processes to a baseball coach, knowing where each player excels.

“As a coach, you need to know your team members’ strengths and weaknesses and put the right people in the right positions,” he advises. “I wouldn’t put a baseball player with a weak arm in center field, just like I wouldn’t put a server who isn’t good with customers as a front server.”

Knowing how to handle obstacles as they emerge is key to remaining consistent in banquet service. Williams isn’t one for placing blame when things go wrong; instead, he values the importance of those who can find a solution and credits problem-solving skills for obliterating potential pitfalls before a customer is aware of them.

“One of my old bosses would say, ‘There are no problems; there are challenges.’ It is how you handle the challenge that matters,” Williams says.

He recalls a past incident when a small wedding party brought a cake that did not travel well. Taking matters into his own hands (quite literally), Williams went to the store, bought some icing and cake decorations, and resurrected it—with “minimal pastry skills.”

As the fallout from the pandemic continues to unfold, Williams relies all the more on his team, one that he proudly notes has remained relatively consistent throughout his tenure. In turn, he provides them with a stable work environment that enables them to grow professionally.

“I try to supply them with the tools and knowledge to do their job correctly,” he says. “My team knows what is expected of them, and I like to coach on the fly to reinforce those expectations.”

A WELL-OILED MACHINE Leading by example is the mantra of Bethany Arico, Director of Catering at Lake of Isles in North Stonington, Conn.

The former banquet manager, who has spent the past 12 years at this Troon club, credits her previous food and beverage manager for teaching her the ropes. As a result, she’s www.clubandresortchef.com

not afraid to roll up her sleeves and pitch in when necessary.

To get her staff up to speed on the day’s agenda, Arico emphasizes the importance of “on-the-spot training.”

“If you have ever worked on a banquet before, it is very hands-on—and that is always the best way to train,” she says.

A mixture of full-time, part-timers and weekend-only staffers well-versed in working weddings make up a solid, wellbalanced banquet crew poised to handle any event size.

“We don’t need to rely on temp help for large gatherings, as we are fortunate to have different levels of the food and beverage department,” she says. When needed, she can pull from the on-site public restaurant to work an event, illustrating the value of cross-training.

When defining what makes a functional service environment in the banquet space, Arico stresses communication and efficiency as demonstrated by solid leadership: “You want to be efficient when serving a table as well as clearing the table,” she says. “Be seen by guests; however, be invisible to guests, so you are not obtrusive.”

One of her key pieces of advice: Never underestimate the simple act of having a smile on your face to ensure a welcoming setting for members and guests.

Because communication is an essential element of a successful banquet operation, Arico listens to her staff and gets involved whenever they need an extra pair of hands.

“There have been times when I have helped carry dinners out due to emergencies or even call-outs for the day,” she recalls.

And when the pandemic forced her to revamp the banquet operations, Arico advised her team to focus on what they were permitted to do safely instead of what they couldn’t.

“There was a point in time that we were not allowed to offer passed hors d’oeuvres, so we adjusted and made a station out of them where our staff would serve,” she explains.

Whatever obstacle her banquet staff encounters, Arico firmly believes that the power of positive reinforcement serves her well as a team leader.

“You have to act as a cheerleader for the staff,” she says.

“There is nothing we can’t do.” C+RC July 2022

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MANAGEMENT

Controlling

Food Costs

Club chefs must diligently and creatively control costs while simultaneously satisfying members.

AS COSTS CONTINUE TO RISE AND SUPPLY CHAINS remain unpredictable, clubs are feeling the pinch. Some are offsetting costs by trimming menus and rotating dishes, others are raising banquet prices to offset a la carte, and more are passing the increases along to members and guests while explaining the cold, hard truth that everything simply costs more now.

“No matter what type of operation you run, chefs must work toward the target their property has set for them,” says Gordon Maybury, Director of Culinary at the JW Marriott Miami Turnberry Resort and Spa in Aventura, Fla.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor

REEVALUATE AND REIMAGINE Turnberry runs a 24.5% food cost across the resort, considerably lower than most private country clubs. Regardless, Maybury is diligent about hitting that target. In April, the resort evaluated prices year over year and found that the property’s cost of goods went up 25% from 2021.

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When the JW Marriott Miami Turnberry Resort and Spa compared prices year over year, Gordon Maybury, Director of Culinary, found that cost of goods increased 25%.

“Some ingredients are outrageously expensive,” says Maybury. “Seabass is nearly double what it was last year, and chicken breasts are up 60%.”

Maybury and his team combed through the report and were surprised to discover that high-cost items, like filets, have only gone up by a small percentage. In contrast, items the property doesn’t even charge for, like disposable cutlery and ketchup packets, have skyrocketed.

“This is where the food-cost equation—beginning inventory value plus all monthly purchases minus ending inventory value divided by total food sales—becomes complicated,” says Maybury.

He stresses the importance of inventory management, reducing food waste and intelligent pricing. Everything is considered at Turnberry, from garnishes to the size of the bowls on buffets to the type of lettuce served in salads.

“We talk with our team and constantly ask if there’s a way to tweak a recipe so we aren’t raising the price to an unreasonable level for our guests,” says Maybury.

Turnberry’s central purchasing department is an essen-

tial partner in helping culinary hit its food-cost target. Many of Maybury’s purchases go out to bid through its central purchasing group so the property can get the best quality for the best price.

“We’re fortunate to have nine kitchens and 120 employees between culinary and stewarding,” says Maybury. “We can move our team members around and produce items inhouse that would cost us a great deal to outsource. This also helps control costs.”

Turnberry is also not above removing or modifying dishes that are too costly to offer. For example, crab was taken off the raw bar, and some of the property’s burgers have dropped from an 8-oz. patty to a 7-oz.

“We’re also working with our vendors to lock pricing for an entire month,” says Maybury, who credits Turnberry’s volume with the ability to rate-lock.

“Chefs willing to change and not afraid to challenge the members, guests and teams will succeed,” says Maybury.

“Those stuck in a ‘we’ve always done it this way’ mindset will have a tough time.”

FIGURING OUT THE FREEBIES

Whether it’s candy in the lobby, coffee in the locker room, snack mix at the bar, or apples by the tennis courts, most clubs cater to members with a handful of complimentary offerings.

“We have to take everything into account when we build our spreadsheets and figure out our costs,” says Will Rogers, CEC, CCA, Executive Chef of The Cosmos Club in Washington, D.C. “It’s important for a chef who is new to a club to find out what cost goes where when it comes to all the giveaways.”

For the most part, clubs are able to absorb these types of freebies and offset the cost in a number of other ways. Other clubs, like Butterfield Country Club (Oak Brook, Ill.), assign these items a whole separate code.

“My food cost is just food,” says BCC’s Executive Chef Eric Wiemeyer.

“Sugar for coffee, locker room snacks, and plasticware have individual codes that aren’t associated with food cost.”

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REDUCE AND REORGANIZE The Cosmos Club (Washington, D.C.)—a much different type of operation than Turnberry—is a private social club located in the nation’s capital. The club does about $5.5 million in F&B and runs a 38% food cost.

Executive Chef Will Rogers, CEC, CCA, says the club’s food-cost percentage has risen 2 points in recent years, but it could have been much more substantial, given the rising cost of everything. He and his team have kept that number low by streamlining menus and focusing on cross-utilization.

“Many of the dishes we serve on the banquet side are based on dishes on our a la carte menu, which helps save on prep and labor,” he says. “We’re also trying to balance different proteins and cuts to help offset costs.

Cosmos members love lamb chops. Instead of always serving chops, Rogers might braise a lamb shoulder and turn that into a pasta dish, roll the shoulder into Swiss chard or maybe even do a lamb loin instead of the chop.

Reducing waste through composting, sous vide and pickling has also helped.

“Fundamentally, we strive to use every ingredient to its fullest capacity,” says Rogers. “As a team, we discuss ways to use things like the tops of carrots and leeks, for example. We rely on sous vide for proteins, so we aren’t overproducing, and pickling has always helped us find a way to use products that might be nearing the end of their usable life.”

Reducing waste is a much simpler task now that the club has one centralized storage location in the kitchen.

“During the pandemic, we rethought our storage systems and decided that a central location would prevent hoarding and waste,” says Rogers. “We now have one common dry storage area and one common ripening rack. Our walk-ins have also been reorganized so there are common bins for things like herbs, dairy, eggs and produce.”

All of these strategies serve a dual purpose beyond reducing waste. They encourage Cosmos’ culinary team to be more creative and communicative within the team and with the purchasing office.

“There was a period where foie gras was less expensive than crab,” recalls Rogers, noting that crab is an ingredient he can’t 86 from menus. “Fortunately, Cosmos has a purchasing manager and clerk who monitor these things and put them out to bid. We communicate with those individuals multiple times weekly to discuss inventory, sales and pricing.”

Keeping the lines of communication open is the best way for Cosmos to prioritize fiscal prudence and quality.

BALANCING REALITY WITH RESPONSIBILITY Butterfield Country Club (Oak Brook, Ill.) is a traditional country club with more than 600 members. The club does www.clubandresortchef.com

To reduce food costs at The Cosmos Club, Executive Chef Will Rogers, CEC, CCA, (right) centralized storage and launched a comprehensive composting program for waste.

about $6.5 million in F&B with an even split between a la carte and banquet. BCC runs a 30.4% food cost.

Executive Chef Eric Wiemeyer says the club has become much more fiscally minded in recent years. He attributes this a shift to an increase in legacy members working to set the club up for continued success over the long term.

“We rely on our banquet operation to drive down the cost of our a la carte program,” he says. “We also try to be very transparent with the membership and explain why we must raise a la carte prices.”

Wiemeyer changes menus every six to eight weeks at BCC. When he changes the menu, he changes the prices.

Once the menu is printed, he tries not to double back.

“We decided that, for this fiscal year, we needed to universally raise prices 10-20% so we could better absorb all the fluctuations in the supply chain,” he says. “This strategy relies on proper ordering, receiving and inventory controls.”

Wiemeyer stays closely involved in the process. He regularly communicates with accounting to dot the i’s and cross the t’s, and he works with his vendors to forecast based on pre-pandemic numbers.

“I tell my vendors up front that I’m a very needy customer,” he says. “I also hold them accountable.” C+RC MORE ONLINE: Check out the online version of this article for downloadable resources as well as more on beverage cost controls.

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MANAGER to CHEF

How A Strong Leader

Supports the Culinary Team On the heels of a $1.5 million kitchen renovation, Rockaway Hunting Club looks to its culinary program, planned additions and Executive Chef Matt DeCarolis for continued success.

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

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ONE OF THE MOST complex elements in managing a club as established as Rockaway Hunting Club (Lawrence, N.Y.) is implementing thoughtful changes that continue to move the operation forward. But as Frank Argento (pictured far left), who has served as the club’s General Manager for the past 12 years, knows, change demands support from leadership and buy-in from members.

With summer in full swing, Rockaway is busier than ever, and its membership continues to grow. The club recently approved a master plan that includes a new swimming pool and snack bar facility and an outdoor dining space off the main clubhouse. These changes represent Rockaway’s commitment to current and future generations of members.

Through it all, Executive Chef Matt DeCarolis has done an incredible job with the culinary program, reports Argento. He transitions seamlessly between busy and slower seasons and is eager for the changes ahead.

Club + Resort Chef (C+RC): Tell us about the food and beverage program at Rockaway.

Frank Argento (FA): We do about $1.2 million in annual food and beverage and have more than 500 members.

We’re a destination club; most members don’t live locally. During the off-season, around November through December, we serve lunch six days a week and dinner two nights a week.

January through March, we serve lunch on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and dinner on Saturday night.

Every May, Chef puts together a new lunch menu. From May through September, we serve breakfast and lunch six days a week and dinner three days a week. Once we get to the off-season, that menu is scaled back. Our a la carte dinner menu is changed weekly.

C+RC: What do you view as Chef DeCarolis’ most significant strengths?

FA: He’s highly creative and always willing to change things up to keep www.clubandresortbusiness.com

members excited and engaged. He’s constantly looking for new ways to present dishes, especially in buffets, and he’s diligent about quality.

He does everything well, but [he’s exceptionally skilled] with fish and different types of seafood. Anytime scallops are on the menu, they sell out. He made monkfish recently that members loved, and his branzino is excellent.

He’s organized and flexible. Sometimes members don’t tell us exactly what they want until a day or two before [they dine with us]. Even though it can be very stressful, he always tries to accommodate every member. He’s also especially sensitive to members with food allergies, which has become a big part of our business.

I appreciate and feel blessed to work with someone of his skill level.

I’ve been here 12 years, and he’s been here for 13. He’s highly professional, and he’s just a very good person. It’s worked out well for us both so far.

the kitchen, say hello to every team member, and ask about their families.

That’s an essential part of my role— ensuring the staff knows I value them at all levels. They don’t have to make appointments with me. My door is always open.

It’s an honor to be the General Manager of this club. I do everything possible to ensure our staff and members have whatever they need.

C+RC: What’s next for Rockaway?

FA: We’ve recently approved a master plan, which includes a pool with a snack bar and an outdoor dining space on the back porch of the main clubhouse. It’s an offering we need to continue attracting younger members with families.

We’re already seeing an uptick in membership. People are eager and excited to be a part of this club. C+RC

C+RC: What drives food and beverage success at your club?

FA: Our staff is very accommodating to members’ needs, and the food is highquality and consistent.

C+RC: In what ways do you support Chef DeCarolis?

FA: My job is to ensure the board and the house committees understand the economics [of our culinary program].

We’ll lose money in food and beverage, but having [these groups] understand why we do what we do is my role. It’s also my job to advocate for Chef and the things he needs.

In 2018, I advocated for a kitchen renovation with the board. Our kitchen was 60 years old at the time. I worked with Chef and the board to ensure the renovation happened, and he got all the equipment he needed. We spent $1.5 million on a brand-new kitchen.

C+RC: In what ways do you support the culinary team as a whole?

FA: I believe it’s vital that our people feel valued. Every day, I walk through July 2022

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