BEVERAGE
5 Fortified Win Fortified wines’ strength and aromatic quality make them perfect for members who want to sip something special. By Robert J Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET, Contributing Chef Editor
FORTIFIED WINES VARY IN color, flavor, origin and sweetness, yet they all have one thing in common: fortification. Fortification is the addition of a distilled spirit to wine either during or after fermentation. This process increases alcohol content, thus killing off yeast and stopping fermentation. The English popularized fortification in the late 17th century to preserve wines for long sea voyages, and it hasn’t changed drastically since. Most fortified wines today reflect what wine tasted like 300 years ago. Madeira, Marsala, port, sherry and vermouth are the most common. Despite being a touch out of vogue, sommeliers, chefs and clubhouse managers can find exceptional quality at a great price—if they know what to look for.
HOW IT’S MADE There are many ways to fortify wine. It’s not always as simple as adding a distilled spirit or brandy. Madeira is heated and oxidized to replicate the voyage across the equator as part of its maturation process. Sherry, a truly unique wine in the world, is exclusively produced in the wine-growing region of Jerez, which is situated in a triangle of land formed by the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. Sherry is typically fortified after the fermentation is complete, rendering most sherries initially dry, with the sweetness added after and aged using the Solera system of fractional blending. Port is typically fortified halfway through fermentation before the sugar is turned into alcohol. Vins doux naturels (VDNs), naturally sweet wines, 54 24
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have a long history rooted in the South of France and are considered the original fortified wine. These wines were perfected by Arnaud de Villeneuve, a director of the University of Montpellier and doctor at the court of Majorca, who discovered mutage, the basis behind this unique style of wine.
5 TYPES TO TRY Because each type of fortified wine is unique to its region, and most have variations in the production method, take a deep dive before you start selling them to your membership. (Though these wines make excellent additions to a club’s wine program, as they generally last forever, can be sipped slowly, and are unique.) Here are a few of my favorites: MOSCATEL DE SETÚBAL If you’re looking to uncover a gem for your members, look no further. Moscatel de Setúbal comes from the southern part of Portugal and is an exceptionally wellvalued alternative to a tawny port. The grape for Moscatel de Setúbal is Muscat of Alexandria, a white wine grape from the Muscat family of Vitis vinifera. It’s also one of the go-to grapes for fortified wine and can be pretty complex. With over 200 varieties, the fortified world favors two cultivars; Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (Italy’s Moscato Bianco) and Muscat of Alexandria (Spain and Portugal’s Muscatel). Look for “superior” bottling, which requires additional aging and exhibits more depth and nutty flavors. The first sip of Moscatel de Setúbal will remind you of dried herbs, date www.clubandresortbusiness.com