November 2022 www.clubandresortchef.com
Cosmic Lessons
For William Rogers, Executive Chef of Cosmos Club, success is never stagnant—it is measured by the growth of each individual on his team and the excellence of the culinary experience.
INSIDE Keeping Pace With Plant-Based From Sous Chef to Executive Chef The Future of Food Trucks
E D I TO R ’ S M E M O WE’RE CHANGING THE CHEF OF THE YEAR COMPETITION. HERE’S HOW. HISTORICALLY, THE CHEF OF THE YEAR competition featured eight club chefs who faced off in a mystery basket-style cooking competition. The chefs were randomly grouped into four teams, and during three quick-fire rounds, they had access to various ingredients, equipment and plateware. Each round lasted 20 minutes and concluded with a group of judges determining the winning team. For the chefs brave enough to participate, the competition moved so quickly they often commented after that they were amazed they didn’t cut off a finger. During one of our recent planning calls, the Chef to Chef coordinators and I kicked around ideas that would improve the competition for the chefs involved, ensure they keep all ten digits and better the experience for attendees watching. Here’s what we came up with: Four club chef competitors will participate in the 2023 Chef of the Year competition. Each chef will be paired with an apprentice in advance of the competition. We will continue with the mystery basket and one “secret” ingredient, but the chefs will get a list of the remaining ingredients and equipment available to them in advance of the competition so they can prepare and practice. We want the competitors to put up plates representing who they are as chefs, not what they can throw together before the buzzer sounds. Each chef will create two dishes: an entrée and a small plate. There will only be one round of cooking, and there will be four cooking suites with chefs working simultaneously around the room. Each chef will have 60 minutes to prepare and plate their dishes. We will stagger the start times to allow for proper judging.
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Kevin Walker, CMC, will serve as the lead judge for the competition alongside two additional judges. Points will be awarded for taste, plating and originality, among other things. Michael Matarazzo, CEC, Executive Chef of Farmington Country Club (Charlottesville, Va.) and one of the conference coordinators, will emcee the competition just as he did last year. During the lulls in the action, I will interview former competitors on stage in brief vignettes. After the cooking concludes, the judges will tally the scores while the Chef to Chef Conference event team pulls the winners of the sponsor raffle. At the end of the raffle, we will announce the winner of the 2023 Chef of the Year Competition. That chef will be awarded a $2,000 cash prize, a full feature in the September issue of Club + Resort Chef and a seat on our Editorial Advisory Board. There are more enhancements in the works, and as they come online, I promise to share. For any chefs interested in competing in the 2023 Club + Resort Chef of the Year Competition, please apply at www.clubandresortchef.com/club-resortchef-of-the-year-application. And if you have any other ideas for ways we can further enhance this competition, please email, text or call me.
EDITOR Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233
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THE NEW SOUS
WHERE DOES YOUR CULINARY PROGRAM RANK?
CLUB + RESORT CHEF IS OPENING our 2023
Top Ranked Culinary Experiences submission earlier than in years past. We want to give you and your marketing teams more time to compile the required information and assets representing your club—and, for chefs, yourselves as culinarians. It also gives our judges extra time to assess each entry fully and fairly. If you’ve participated in any Top Ranked programming, you know that entries are judged independently by a panel of your peers. Scoring is based on values assigned to each data point, including member usage, a la carte and banquet menus, certifications, front- and back-ofhouse photos and more. C+RC’s Top Ranked Culinary Experience program provides an industry benchmarking tool for you to use as you continue to deliver exceptional member and guest experiences. Top Ranked clubs gain national recognition for their food and beverage programs in Club + Resort Business and Club + Resort Chef, online and in print, and the opportunity to use
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the exclusive “Top Ranked” badge in marketing and member materials—a valuable tool to attract and retain both members and staff in an increasingly competitive landscape. Top Ranked Culinary Experience clubs will also be celebrated at the 2023 Chef to Chef Conference, set for March 5-7 in Miami. Access the submission form, plus a list of FAQs, at clubandresortchef.com/top-rankedculinary-experience. The deadline for 2023 submissions is January 15, 2023. We can’t wait to learn more about you and your culinary programs. Thanks, chefs, and best of luck.
SENIOR EDITOR Isabelle Gustafson igustafson@wtwhmedia.com 216-296-2041
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chef tochefconference.com
R E G I S T R A T I O N
O P E N
FLORIDA
REGISTRATION INCLUDES: • • • • • • • • • •
Hotel room at InterContinental Miami for three nights: March 5th, 6th and 7th Attendee Gift Welcome Reception, Keynote Address and Kickoff Party Breakfast and lunches on Monday and Tuesday General conference sessions and education Live cooking demonstrations Networking opportunities Monday night Chef to Chef Community Event Club + Resort Chef of the Year Culinary Competition and Reception Continuing-education credits
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CONTENTS November • Vol. 11 • Issue 6
D
8
Behind the Plate
Hyewon Kwon, Executive Pastry Chef of Broken Sound Club, shares her Bourbon-Smoked Pavlova recipe.
Cosmic Lessons 10 For William Rogers, Executive Chef of Cosmos Club,
success is never stagnant—it is measured by the growth of each individual on his team and the excellence of the culinary experience.
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Balancing Reality Versus Expectations Communication and member education are more important than ever as club chefs and managers balance their ambition with the realities of the industry.
Keeping Pace With Plant-Based 16 Club chefs must offer balanced, thoughtful and delicious plant-based dishes to succeed in an increasingly flexitarian world.
Inside the Cookie Jar 20 Pastry chefs share their favorite cookie recipes and how they’ve helped make them a club staple.
Food on the Move 24 Food trucks are putting a new spin on a la “cart” dining. Balancing Tradition and Innovation 26 Matt Lambert, CCM, CAM, General Manager/COO of The Country Club at Mirasol, ensures Executive Chef Michael Crain has the support he needs to elevate and enhance the $8.5 million F&B operation.
Leaning Into Aussie Beef and Lamb 28 Lance Cook, Executive Chef of Hammock Dunes Club, is leveraging the endless culinary possibilities with Australian beef and lamb.
The Management Mindset 30 Club chefs talk about their transition from Sous to
Executive Chef, the role of mentorship—and how they found their footing as culinary leaders.
2 Editor’s Memo 4 The New Sous 6 Masthead 33 Products 34 Ad Index
www.clubandresortchef.com
November 2022
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Club + Resort Chef l 7
BEHIND THE PLATE
Hyewon Kwon, Executive Pastry Chef Broken Sound Club, Boca Raton, Fla.
WHEN BROKEN SOUND CLUB (Boca Raton, Fla.) began planning an exclusive bourbon-tasting experience for members, Executive Pastry Chef Hyewon Kwon wanted to capture the essence of the event in a dessert. The Bourbon-Smoked Pavlova she crafted benefits from smoke generated by pear wood chips soaked in bourbon and infused into the meringue. Inside the dome, she pipes raspberry confit and white chocolate mousse. “It’s an amazing combination of flavors,” says Kwon, who garnishes each pavlova with a hand-crafted roasted rose made of meringue.
Bourbon-Smoked Pavlova INGREDIENTS FOR WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE:
5 gms. 180 gms. 70 gms. 2 ea. 500 gms. 2 Tbsp.
gelatin sheets Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate whole milk vanilla bean whipped cream bourbon
INGREDIENTS FOR BOURBON-SMOKED PAVLOVA:
as needed 280 gms. 200 gms. 1tsp. 200 gms. 3 ea.
pear wood chips, soaked in bourbon egg whites granulated sugar cream of tartar confectioners’ sugar vanilla bean
INGREDIENTS FOR RASPBERRY CONFIT:
250 gms. 1Tbsp. 1 ea. 1ea. 50 gms. 1ea. 3/4 tsp. 100 gms.
fresh raspberry lemon juice lemon zest orange zest granulated sugar vanilla bean pectin powder fresh raspberries
INGREDIENTS FOR ROASTED ROSE:
280 gms. 400 gms.
egg whites granulated sugar
PROCEDURE FOR WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE:
1. Bloom gelatin. Once bloomed, place in bowl with semimelted white chocolate. 2. In medium sauce pot, bring milk and vanilla bean to a boil. Add to chocolate and gelatin mixture and stir until completely melted. Set aside to cool. 3. In a mixing bowl, add heavy cream and whip until soft peaks are formed. 4. Fold whipped cream into cooled chocolate and gelatin mixture until fully incorporated. Refrigerate overnight. 8
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PROCEDURE FOR BOURBON-SMOKED PAVLOVA:
1. Soak pear wood chips in bourbon and prepare a smoke gun. 2. Combine egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar and whip on medium speed. While whipping, add smoke with smoke gun. Incorporate bourbon-soaked wood smoke into the meringue. 3. Add confectioners’ sugar and vanilla bean, then fold until fully incorporated. 4. Pipe into dome shape and bake at 200°F for 2 hours. PROCEDURE FOR RASPBERRY CONFIT:
1. In medium sauce pot, combine fresh raspberry, lemon juice and zests, sugar and vanilla bean. Cook on medium heat until berries are macerated. 2. Slowly add pectin and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. 3. Once cool, add fresh raspberries and combine. PROCEDURE FOR ROASTED ROSE:
1. Combine egg whites and sugar over double boiler. 2. Whisk until sugar is dissolved, then transfer to a mixer and whisk on full speed until firm Swiss meringue is formed. 3. Pipe into rosette shape and torch until golden brown. Set aside. ASSEMBLY:
1. Take dehydrated meringue dome and fill halfway with raspberry confit. 2. Cover the remaining space with white chocolate mousse. 3. Garnish with roasted rose, fresh raspberries and edible flowers. www.clubandresortchef.com
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PROFILE
Cosmic
Lessons For William Rogers, Executive Chef of Cosmos Club, success is never stagnant—it is measured by the growth of each individual on his team and the excellence of the culinary experience. By Joanna DeChellis, Editor
WILLIAM ROGERS, CEC, CCA, Executive Chef of Cosmos Club (Washington, D.C.), has worked alongside some of the industry’s most ambitious culinarians, who have reached a level of mastery few are bold enough to seize. This exposure has deeply impacted how Rogers approaches his role as a chef. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Rogers began his career with the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company. For the subsequent decade, he worked under two American Culinary Federation Certified Master Chefs (CMC), one Master French Chef and one three-star Michelin Chef. When he left the Ritz in 2011, Rogers accepted the position of Executive Chef of Good Tidings, the University of Maryland’s (UMD) premier full-service catering program. He was responsible for a $9 million operation, five kitchens and 25 staff members. Each April from 2012 through 2015 (while with UMD), Rogers would travel to Augusta (Ga.) National Golf Club, where he and many of his former Ritz colleagues helped execute food and beverage programming during the Masters. Rogers was tasked with leading a team of chefs as they produced 2,000 covers each day for the club’s members. During the 2015 Masters, John Johnstone, CMC—a mentor Rogers had known from his time with the Ritz—was Director of Club Operations at Augusta National. He probed Rogers about his next career move. “Every one of my mentors has incredible vision and has inspired me to always seek and em-
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www.clubandresortchef.com
(From l. to r.) Ailee Apac, Banquet Chef; William Rogers, Executive Chef; Mark Linquist, Executive Sous Chef; and Yaya Rodriguez, Restaurant Chef
COVER FEATURE
Executive Chef William Rogers introduced a scratch-made philosophy to Cosmos Club’s kitchen. He stresses proper cooking technique and the value of fresh, local ingredients.
brace new challenges,” says Rogers. “I knew it was time to move on from university catering, but knowing he knew it, too, turned it into a strategic step forward.” Johnstone encouraged Rogers to apply for the open position at Cosmos Club and to consider preparing for the CMC exam.
A UNIVERSE OF POSSIBILITY “Our former chef had been here for 30 years,” says Mitchell Platt, MCM, CCE, General Manager of Cosmos Club, who came to the club in 2013. “When he retired in 2015, we began searching for a chef who could reinvent our culinary program.” With such a strong and diverse professional pedigree, Rogers was the panacea Cosmos Club was looking for. “[Rogers] was young and articulate,” says Platt. “He was confident in his abilities and what he could bring to the table. He was able to share his vision and process. He was eager to help us renovate the kitchen while balancing the challenges of inheriting a tenured team and a ‘we’ve always done it this way’ mindset.” Rogers was equally excited by the possibilities within Cosmos Club. “The club has a majestic aura and cultural significance,” says Rogers. “The membership and management team were eager to elevate the culinary scene. The potential for excellence was beginning to be realized, and I was excited to take the lead.” Cosmos Club was founded in the 19th century by a group of scientists with a vision for “a center of good fellowship, a club that embraced the sciences and the arts, where members could meet socially and exchange ideas, where vitality would grow from the mixture of disciplines, and a library would provide a refuge for thought and learning,” according to its website. Cosmos Club members are generally lawyers, academi12
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cians, doctors, members of the medical field, theologians and the like. The club caters to the intellectually accomplished and offers an array of programs for every member’s interest, including international affairs, science, the arts and economics, to name a few. What it doesn’t offer are typical “country club” amenities. As an academic club, there is no golf course, tennis courts or pool. “Food is a significant part of the experience,” says Rogers.
ECLIPSING WHAT WAS As is often the case preceding a transitional moment, half of Cosmos Club’s members were satisfied with the food and beverage program up to that point. The other half wanted more. “Quality wasn’t necessarily a problem,” says Rogers—variety was, especially on the banquet side. Members dine with the club weekly, either in the restaurants or as part of a lecture series; therefore, a one-size-fitsmost banquet menu won’t suffice. Rogers wagered that an a la carte approach to banquets would serve a greater good. “We wanted to strike the right balance between custom and feasible,” says Rogers, who credits Banquet Chef Ailee Apac and Executive Sous Chef Mark Linquist with the banquet program’s ongoing success. “I’m proud of our team and their ability to be agile in exceeding expectations with this type of banquet model.” Banquet menus change daily, and the same groups are never served the same thing twice. Every lecture menu is unique, too. Ditto for weddings, receptions and parties. On the a la carte side, Platt credits Rogers with transitioning the club into a scratch-made kitchen. “Rogers has been able to change the entire mindset of the team, too,” says Platt. “He’s taught them proper cooking technique, the intrinsic value of fresh, local ingredients, and he allows them to www.clubandresortchef.com
Food is a significant part of Cosmos Club’s experience, so the new kitchen (above) is designed with that in mind. Members dine with the club weekly, either in the restaurants or as part of a lecture series, so banquet menus change daily to provide increased variety.
partner with him in the menu-writing process.” “I love that Chef Rogers allows his chefs to fully own their departments,” says Eun Yim, Director of Food & Beverage. “We have two women running our main dining room and banquet kitchen, respectively.” In 2017, Cosmos Club underwent a complete kitchen renovation. Rogers was instrumental in the design and execution of the new layout. He stealthily navigated the club through the renovation without suspending the food and beverage program. “I enjoyed the logistics of building an outdoor kitchen and making sure we could continue to serve our members through the renovation,” says Rogers. “It was never simple, but the most rewarding tasks rarely are.”
SETTING NEW GOALS With a strong, capable team in place and a new, highly functional kitchen, Cosmos Club was hitting its stride. Seeking his next challenge, Rogers began preparing for the CMC exam, which he took in 2019. “The process of preparing for and taking that exam revealed a lot of growth opportunities to me,” says Rogers. “I learned much about myself, and the process proved more valuable than the outcome. It has inspired me to stay on task, continue to grow and improve my craft.” Rogers didn’t pass the exam in 2019, but he does plan to retake the test someday. “I believe my biggest impact as a chef should not be based on the credentials after my name,” says Rogers. “Much like my mentors have inspired and guided me, I www.clubandresortchef.com
want that to be my legacy.” Rogers stresses the importance of cross-training, continuing education and always trying to improve yourself and the operation. His measure of success is in the club’s Restaurant Chef, Yaya Rodriguez, who started as a line cook, and Linquist, who started in banquets. “Not long ago, we hired a clerk in our commissary who has been promoted so many times that he now runs the grill,” says Rogers. Yim, the newest member of Cosmos Club’s management team, accepted her role largely for the opportunity to work alongside Rogers. She believes his greatest strength is his completion of vision. “Chef Rogers excels in making what he writes down on paper come to life,” she says. “There is nothing extraneous about his dishes, and everything works. His thoroughness and his methodical approach pass through his teams and allow our operations to be seamless.” Rogers has elevated the Cosmos Club’s culinary program in “countless ways,” adds Platt. “He’s improved the caliber of our team, the quality and variety of our menus and food and the spaces where we work and serve our members,” says Platt. “Administratively, labor and food costs are buttoned up, and the systems and processes he’s put in place will continue to propel the program forward.” C+RC November 2022
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CHEF TO CHEF
Balancing Reality Versus
Expectations
Communication and member education are more important than ever as club chefs and managers balance their ambition with the realities of the industry. By Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC, Executive Chef, Cullasaja Club
THE RULES FOR COVID were relatively straightforward and usually spelled out by our state and local governments, but clubs are finding that the path back to “normal” is far more nebulous. During the lockdown, masking and occupancy restriction phases, clubs were able to quickly rethink their food and beverage business models to remain relevant. They offered curbside takeout, grocery pickups, virtual wine dinners and cooking classes. Members were gracious and understanding. They were were grateful for our efforts. “Our members were effusive with their praise and appreciation in our ability to still offer memorable and remarkable experiences during the 2020 and 2021 seasons,” says Chris Conner, CCM, CCE, General Manager and Chief Operating Officer of Cullasaja Club in Highlands, N.C. “There was a 14
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sense of safety congregating with members they knew, rather than dining in restaurants in town. They were kind to one another and to the staff, too. They worked with us through mask policies and spaced-out seating arrangements.” But 12 months of masking, shifting restrictions and everchanging rules took its toll. Mark Bado, MCM, CCE, General Manager/COO of Houston (Texas) Country Club and former chairman of the Club Management Association of America, was in Charlotte, N.C. at Myers Park Country Club during the early days of COVID. “Many members who stayed home for most of COVID are frustrated now—they’re ready for the world to fully return to normal,” he says. But club operators and quarantined club members experienced the COVID era differently.
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“Many of us in the club world didn’t stop working during COVID,” says Bado. “We were essential employees, and we attacked the challenges of the pandemic to remain relevant to our memberships and preserve the cultures we had worked so hard to build within our institutions.” When the engine of the world slowly began to turn again, there was no shortage of challenges awaiting clubs. Cost of goods increases and labor shortages continue to pose extraordinary challenges. Those factors and the resulting member behaviors are posing new challenges for clubs as we inches toward a post-pandemic era. “Supply chain issues” has become an all-too-common phrase with products becoming scarce or unavailable due to COVID outbreaks, droughts and short growing seasons. According to Michael Matarazzo, CEC, Executive Chef of Farmington Country Club (Charlottesville, Va.), beef prices for cuts that the club relies heavily upon for special events have increased as much as 99% compared to 2019. “Our Thanksgiving turkeys are up 144% from last year, and chicken has seen a 60% increase,” he says. “At one point this summer, chicken breasts were more expensive than baby back ribs—that’s unprecedented in my 27plus years in this industry.” Club members seem to have taken these price increases in stride. Paul Bovenzi, CCM, General Manager of The Berkshire Club in Reading, Pa., describes their membership as understanding as it relates to rising costs. “Many realize within their businesses that they must pass along cost increases to their clients to maintain budgeted profit margins,” he says. Cullasaja’s Conner agrees.
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“[Members] generally understand,” he says. “They still want to see betterthan-market menu pricing, but they understand that prices have increased over the past year.” While cost increases generally get a pass, the impact on member services due to labor shortages has proven less acceptable. According to the United States Bureau of Labor Statistics, the national unemployment rate as of June 2022 has returned to the pre-COVID levels of January 2020. However, participation in the hospitality industry has dropped by 7%. Hourly employees are now demanding 19% more per hour. Employees who left the hospitality industry simply aren’t returning. Businesses, including private clubs, are now offering more than ever in an attempt to entice them. For private club members, labor shortages equate to fewer or limited services, even with a higher dues payment or dining room tab. “The biggest battle we face with member expectations is maintaining service standards while actively recruiting and facing retention difficulties,” says Bovenzi. “Our region was hit hard with labor shortages, and we are now competing with national and international corporations for employees, except we cannot compete with the wages they offer.” The private club industry, long considered a haven of civility, is now experiencing some of the same customer behavior that has become common in private restaurants and airlines, though with less frequency. Frustrations are being expressed in increasingly uncivil and unacceptable ways. “There is a difference between members understanding that there are shortages in staffing and accepting how those factors impact how the club
operates,” says Bovenzi. Conner has noted a similar trend. “There has been an increase in disciplinary issues with members showing lower tolerance for our team,” he says. “Additionally, the level of happiness seems to have leveled off with expectations rising drastically.” Just as clubs navigated COVID, we must overcome these new challenges. And the most important tool we have, according to Bado, is education and communication. “We must spend the time and effort to educate our memberships so they understand the challenges we face and how that impacts the services we offer,” he says. “As an industry, it’s time to stop focusing on what each other has. Instead, we must focus on what each of us can become. “As a society that has become so divisive, we don’t have to act like we’re not different, but we can choose to focus on those things that unite us instead of those which divide us,” he adds. “It’s time to get back to ‘normal’ and do it with positive energy.” Bovenzi agrees. “We need to help members understand that employee burnout is real,” says Bovenzi. “We need to support our greatest asset—our people. If we can’t provide balance and quality of life for our employees, we will lose them to an employer that can. Members must understand their role in that equation.” To remain relevant and competitive, Bovenzi says clubs must erase the mentality of ‘this is how we’ve always done it’ and begin to rewrite operations manuals. “We often get in our own way by being fearful to challenge the status quo; we worry we will upset a small subset of the membership,” Bovenzi says. “We must honor and celebrate our traditions—but not allow them to stunt our potential.” C+RC
November 2022
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FOOD
Keeping Pace With Plant-Based Club chefs must offer balanced, thoughtful and delicious plant-based dishes to succeed in an increasingly flexitarian world. By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor
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WHILE INTEREST IN PLANTbased options falls on a spectrum, today’s members and guests are often open to meat alternatives, and it’s up to club chefs to stay ahead of the curve. Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC, Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club (Highlands, N.C.), believes interest in plant-based options is “absolutely” growing. In his prior role as Executive Chef of Myers Park Country Club (Charlotte, N.C.), Craig and his team offered members an entirely vegetarian a la carte menu. He’s brought many of these philosophies and recipes to Cullasaja. “Folks who aren’t vegetarian are trying the vegetarian options,” he says. “I don’t know if it’s become more readily available because of demand or if more people are interested because it’s more readily available, but either way, there are more products on the market now for chefs to work with.” By making plant-based foods recognizable and accessible, club chefs can capture even the most apprehensive members.
Chef De Cuisine Catherine DiQuinzio says Bonnie Briar CC’s members love trying new things. Plant-based options include the plantain cup with mangopineapple relish and chimichurri sauce (above) and vegan tacos with watermelon radish and pickled vegetables (right).
“If I’m talking to a table I know doesn’t trend in that direction, I’ll say, ‘We’ve got this awesome plant-based burger that is so good, I can’t even tell that it’s not meat,” says Craig. “The only difference is I don’t have to nap after I eat it.’”
PEOPLE AND PLANET
Executive Chef Scott Craig says his bang bang cauliflower with pickled vegetables and soy reduction (above) is a Cullasaja Club member favorite.
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Members of Bonnie Briar Country Club (Larchmont, N.Y.) are “always willing to try new things,” says Catherine DiQuinzio, the club’s Chef De Cuisine. She considers it a club’s obligation to have as many options as possible on and off the menu. “If someone wants vegan, vegetarian or a gluten-free item, our menu offers it,” she says. “Even if it’s not on the menu, if we have it and aren’t busy, then we make it.” DiQuinzio’s interest in plant-based foods stems partly from her multiple sclerosis diagnosis. Now, she says,
she’s eager to learn about foods that could act as a natural remedy. At Bonnie Briar, a community-supported agriculture program supplies the club with weekly fresh produce. The program has exposed the club’s culinary team to new, plant-based alternatives, like lion’s mane mushrooms, which pull apart in a way that mimics lobster or crab meat. “[Our expeditor] bought some, cut them up, threw some seasoning together, and fried them for us,” says DiQuinzio. “It was delicious.” At The Residence Club at Ocean Reef in Key Largo, Fla., demand for plant-based alternatives is mixed. “Some people are super excited about [plant-based foods] and love that it’s always evolving and changing—and some are just carnivores,” says ExecuNovember 2022
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FOOD
Andrea Mallon-Griffith, Executive Chef of The Residence Club at Ocean Reef (left), will present the science behind plantbased, clean and organic eating at the 2023 Chef to Chef Conference in Miami.
tive Chef Andrea Mallon-Griffith. “That’s what they want and what they like. And they have no interest in changing. As chefs, we have to find the balance within our menus.” While neither ‘vegan’ nor ‘vegetarian’ equate to ‘healthy,’ there are benefits to eating a more plant-forward or plantbased diet. Mallon-Griffith says she’s been on a personal journey to eat healthier, and plant-based foods play a significant role for her. She’s also currently working on earning a nutrition certification to better help those she serves.
Her goal is to learn enough to help guide members and guests. “Most of the people at Ocean Reef are older,” she says, “and a lot of them have issues with their health—arthritis, diabetes, certain types of cancers. I aim to connect with them more and at least help steer them toward options that will support their wellness goals.” At the 2023 Chef to Chef Conference in Miami, Mallon-Griffith will present the science behind plant-based, clean and organic eating. She’ll also demo dishes centered around fresh, locally sourced fruits and vegetables.
THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX
The quinoa-stuffed avocado is among the most popular plant-based dishes at Cullasaja Club in Highlands, N.C. 18 l Club + Resort Chef l November 2022
“Look at what’s local, seasonal and available, and think of different ways to introduce complementary and contrasting textures, flavors and temperatures,” says Cullasaja’s Craig. “Always be mindful of protein. [With plant-based foods], you have to get a little more cerebral.” At Cullasaja, bang bang cauliflower with pickled vegetables and soy reduction is especially popular, as is the quinoa-stuffed avocado with black bean purée, cilantro crema, toasted walnuts, baby greens and cilantro-lime vinaigrette (see photo, left). The menu also features a weekly rotating vegetarian grain bowl; among
them, the soy-glazed tofu with fried rice, pickled vegetables, bok choy and toasted peanuts and the maple-glazed tofu with fall vegetable-grain medley, butternut squash purée and herb salad both sold well. “I did a cauliflower parmesan recently,” Craig says, “where we took a cauliflower head, sliced it down the middle, and then blanched it, breaded it, deep-fried it and stuffed it with mozzarella and parmesan. We airbaked it and served that with pasta and vegetables. The member sent it back because she thought it was chicken.” Today, he says, there’s a home for all forms and flavors of plantbased cuisine. “Our members love country fried steak,” says Craig. “But what they love about the dish isn’t necessarily the protein; it might be the nostalgia or comfort. When we engage with our members and have conversations to understand the reasons behind their preferences, we can create vegetarian dishes that are more successful.” Chefs must communicate with and understand members, then flex their creative muscles. “That’s one of the most valuable things to me about vegetarian cuisine,” says Craig. “Success requires thinking outside the box.” C+RC www.clubandresortchef.com
PASTRY
Inside the Cookie Jar Pastry chefs share their favorite cookie recipes and how they’ve helped make them a club staple. By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor
EVEN THE MOST ELABORATE plated desserts can’t compete with the comfort and consistency of a classic cookie. The fresh-from-the-oven smell conjures up memories of grandma’s kitchen, where a plate of warm cookies and a glass of milk made a perfect snack. Pastry chefs take great pride in recreating such moments for members and guests. As they reveal which cookie recipes are worth playing with, these pastry pros explain how subtle tweaks to their ingredient list and procedure have enhanced the flavor without compromising nostalgia. SUGAR AND SPICE At The Country Club at Castle Pines in Castle Rock, Colo., members are sweet on a cookie that’s almost as fun to say as it is to eat. Snickerdoodles, produced by Pastry Chef Julie Eslinger, who has been at the club since August 2020, is a favorite of kids and adults alike. “The members love them because they’re soft and have a great cinnamon flavor,” she says. 20 l Club + Resort Chef l November 2022
The cookie’s unusual moniker hails from the German word schneckennudeln, which translates to ‘snail dumpling’—a nod to the shape and texture of the crunchy, crispy treat. Eslinger credits the cookie’s universal appeal to its versatility despite its worldly origin. “They are great for any season and can complement different menus,” she explains, noting the snickerdoodle’s
presence on banquet and special event menus. While Eslinger has been making snickerdoodles since she was a kid, she adapted her recipe for professional production four years ago. This past March, she began using Saigon cinnamon after spending time with a fellow pastry chef. “This is what she had on hand, and I loved the difference,” says Eswww.clubandresortchef.com
Christine Anschuetz (above), Pastry Chef of Red Run GC, says her lemon raspberry cookies (right) are a regular request from the ladies golf league and are typically served after lunch as a light, bright treat.
Julie Eslinger, Pastry Chef of The Country Club at Castle Pines (left), says her snickerdoodles are a member favorite. Visit recipes.clubandresortchef.com for this recipe and more.
linger of the happy accident. She also recommends using cake flour, which keeps the cookie soft and delicate and yields a crisp outside. PERFECT PAIRING Peanut butter and jelly may make a great sandwich, but when it comes to terrific twosomes, the cookies served at Red Run Golf Club in Royal Oak, www.clubandresortchef.com
Mich., are made with lemon and raspberry. Since she began working at the club last spring, Pastry Chef Christine Anschuetz has been making batches of these flavored cookies. “Lemon and raspberry are such a classic combination, so I was not surprised it became a hit,” she says. When writing this cookie recipe, Anschuetz harnessed her pastry-making experience at Forest Dunes Golf Club in Roscommon, Mich., where she taught cooking classes to members. In her one-woman pastry operation at Red Run, she’s responsible for plated desserts, ice cream and sorbet and adapting fruit-based sauces for dishes like duck egg pasta and cured yolks. But when Anschuetz is elbows-deep in cookie dough, she relies on the citrusy
flavors of lemon and raspberry to pull off the perfect product. In addition to being a regular request from Red Run’s ladies golf league, Anschuetz’s lemon raspberry cookies are a top choice for special club events. “They are also often served after lunch, so a lighter, brighter sweet treat makes sense at that time of day when you just want a few bites instead of a plated dessert,” she explains. Over the years, Anschuetz has fine-tuned her recipe, rendering it the most-tweaked cookie in her repertoire. In addition to increasing the amount of zest and adding a few grams of citric acid, she enhances her product with November 2022
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PASTRY
Jessie Stravinskas (left), Executive Pastry Chef of Interlachen CC, says her brown butter chocolate chunk cookies have a crispy outside and gooey inside thanks to the melted chocolate. They are finished with fleur de sel. Find the full recipe online at recipes.clubandresortchef.com.
shredded sweetened coconut to create bulk and texture. And while she has achieved good results using glutenfree flours when adapting her recipe for those with dietary restrictions, she prefers all-purpose flour. “If I remove the egg and create a more shortbread texture, it is tasty, but the light, flaky texture does change,” Anschuetz notes. A WHIFF OF NOSTALGIA Returning to her midwestern roots has benefitted Executive Pastry Chef Jessie Stravinskas. Still, her arrival will soon be the good fortune of the members at Interlachen Country Club in Edina, Minn., where her brown butter chocolate chunk cookie will debut later this year. “It’s a slight twist on a classic that brings me back to my childhood,” says the chef, who has refined her recipe over the years. After spending the wealth of her career in pastry kitchens at luxury hotels and resorts in Rhode Island, Florida and 22 l Club + Resort Chef l November 2022
Texas, Stravinskas was lured back home to Minnesota last May when she began her first culinary experience at a country club. “I immediately fell in love with the property,” she says of Interlachen. “It was nothing I was used to, but everything I wanted: a welcoming team, high-quality ingredients and an eye on excellence.” Since coming aboard, Stravinskas has embraced member-favorite recipes for which the club is known. In the cookie department, that honor falls to the gingersnap, proudly served at the 13th Tee and Founders, Interlachen’s café and bar between the ninth and tenth holes. Stravinskas describes the cookie as small in stature but big in taste, with crispy edges and a chewy center. “We bake 1,500 [gingersnaps] a week in the summer,” she reveals. “[They are] grabbed by the handful and stuffed into pockets for later, from what we hear.” But the time-honored Interlachen cookie fixture may soon have some stiff
competition with the arrival of Stravinskas’s brown butter chocolate chunk, which has a fond place in her heart (and kitchen). “I remember my mother covering our dining room table in old newspapers, placing cooling racks on top, and loading the table full of homemade cookies,” she recalls. “My brothers and I would climb onto the chairs and stare at the piping-hot cookies in hopes that our mom would let us have one before lunch, knowing full well that if we tried to sneak one, she would know. That is the best thing about cookies—they bring you back to moments like those.” Hoping to recreate a similar experience by introducing members to these showstoppers, Stravinskas shares the secret to her cookie’s irresistible flavor. The crispy outside is paired with melted chocolate chunks in the center, rendering it gooey at the center. It is finished with a touch of fleur de sel. But long before the recipe’s final touches, the intoxicating aroma from the brown butter alone is enough to salivate even the most particular member. “The nutty caramelized smell that fills the kitchen is simply divine; already, you know you’re getting into something special,” she says. Making her famous cookies and sharing them with appreciative guests sustains Stravinskas, primarily when she can provide more than just a way to end a meal. “One of the best parts of my job is creating desserts that will bring our members back to a happy memory of when they were kids,” Stravinskas says. “And to our younger members, I hope to help create new memories and favorites they will look back on someday.” C+RC www.clubandresortchef.com
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BANQUET
FOOD ON THE MOVE Food trucks are putting a new spin on a la “cart” dining. By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor
MOBILE DINING IS ON the move—literally. A trend that took off during the height of the pandemic, when outdoor dining enabled clubs to remain open and provide a safe service, has since morphed into a more permanent F&B fixture. Food trucks have been tasked to take on member events and pick up some of the overflow when club kitchens are at their busiest. Here’s how some facilities are getting extra mileage out of their onthe-go eateries.
STREET EATS Providing membership with another dining option in a convenient format was the goal of Woodfield Country Club in Boca Raton, Fla. “The food truck offered efficiencies and flexibility compared to a standard restaurant outlet,” says Executive Chef Bart Messing. With a focus on street food options, the aptly named Street Side truck opened in 2019 and has since generated a robust, revolving menu of dishes. Converting a truck for foodservice made sense for Woodfield, and Street Side stays on property. The menu includes smash burgers, a Korean fried chicken sandwich, a cauliflower bowl and challah grilled cheese. “We avoid offering traditional favorites available in other club restaurants,” says Messing. A recent pop-up converted Street Side into a dessert and ice cream truck, while another focused on tacos and smash burgers. Assigning sufficient staff is es24
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sential to a successful food truck. A dedicated team of two cooks and two or three front-of-house employees are on-hand to serve 150-200 members at any time. A food attendant is stationed outside the truck to take orders on a wireless tablet. Because prep and cook space is limited, Messing and his crew rely on a carefully laid out operation, particularly during peak hours. “The truck offers traffic flow benefits at lunchtime on weekends and holidays, especially winter breaks,” he says. Street Side will feature new pop-up themes that build off the existing menu for the upcoming season. Down the road, the truck may offer catered services at member homes, but plans have not yet been finalized.
THE MAKING OF A LEGEND Ashely Davidson, co-owner of The Legendary Food Truck in Franklin, Ind., knows the ins and outs of food truck service. When she and her husband, Ted, first considered bolstering dining options at Legends Golf Club (where Ashely handles member events and weddings and Ted manages the golf shop and facilities), they contemplated expanding the existing kitchen, but it wasn’t practical. It was then that Davidson suggested starting a food truck. Seven years later, the Davidsons have established a successful food truck venture that has expanded its services beyond club grounds and become a destination for Indianapolis foodies.
“We have become known for our hand-breaded pork tenderloins, which are a Hoosier tradition,” she notes. “We also offer items people would order at the club—like Arnold Palmers and chicken salad.” She and Ted are responsible for preparing and expediting the food, while a staffer handles orders and the cash register. Occasionally, a banquet or snack bar team member may be called to assist. Once the truck’s initial output ramped up, Davidson realized it www.clubandresortchef.com
Indian Trail Club’s truck is staffed by a mix of full-time cooks and seasonal employees.
take on outside events that work around the production schedule. Jobs that didn’t amass enough revenue to compensate for staff and prep—and required trekking into the city multiple times a week—have prompted her to be more selective. “We’ve worked hard to build a business closer to the club,” she says, “so we can take the truck out less and make more.” These days, Legendary Kitchen is taking on events that allow it to serve concert-goers at a local amphitheater. During a recent event, the truck fed 460 people in five hours. “We find ourselves there as often as we’re at the club,” says Davidson. She advises facilities to use their own trucks “at the club when it makes sense, but also build a reputation within the community.” Woodfield CC’s Street Side food truck offers a revolving menu of street food-inspired dishes, including tacos (pictured), smash burgers and a Korean fried chicken sandwich.
would be more economical to move the core business off-property. “We find that we can do more in a couple of hours off-site than at the club,” she explains, noting that the 27-hole, semi-private club plays about 48,000 rounds per year. “Even with that traffic, our food truck wasn’t maximizing its potential on-site.” The truck began taking on large events and fine-tuning the menu to limit the number of entrées for greater efficiency. Davidson also tailored the work schedule to www.clubandresortchef.com
KEEP ON TRUCKIN’ What began as a way to offload the main kitchen and balance foodservice at Indian Trail Club has become a popular member attraction. Four years ago, the Franklin Lakes, N.J., facility established a food truck with this goal in mind. “As the [clubhouse] restaurant became busier, it was clear that the kitchen line would have to be dedicated to a la carte service only,” says Jeff Habley, CEC, Executive Chef. Indian Trail’s truck is staffed by a mix of full-time cooks and seasonal employees (see photo, top right). In addition to standard service, it recently came in handy during Indian Trail’s Taste of the Private Club Chefs event. “We used our truck as a departing station from which we sent
guests home with a bag containing a hot breakfast sandwich, drink and dessert,” says Habley. Initially, the menu consisted of kidfriendly items like chicken tenders and hamburgers but has evolved to include food truck favorites like empanadas, fish tacos and açaí bowls. Appealing to the adult crowd, the truck offers draft beer, wine and canned cocktails. While the intent was to station the truck at locations on the property, it simply wasn’t feasible, as it was the main F&B outlet for the pool, explains General Manager Michael Azbill. Instead, the club is considering a secondary mini truck to work with the main truck, providing graband-go items around the tennis courts, softball area, beach and boating spots. A dedicated manager is essential for supervising truck-related activities, says Habley, as is a plan for days when it’s too hot to operate in the truck. “We set up an outside grill under the shade and run a limited menu,” he says. Space for employees on break is another must. “Make sure you have the proper kitchen equipment in the right places to run a fast and efficient food truck,” adds House Manager Turgay Itez, who recommends iPads and wireless routers. And when developing a menu, be sure to have the right tools and resources for foolproof production. “If you want soft-serve ice cream, allocate enough power to operate that equipment,” says Habley. “You can’t add equipment as an afterthought with limited power.” C+RC November 2022
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MANAGER to CHEF
Balancing Tradition and Innovation As General Manager/COO of The Country Club at Mirasol, Matt Lambert, CCM, CAM, ensures Executive Chef Michael Crain has the support he needs to continually elevate and enhance the $8.5 million F&B operation. By Joanna DeChellis, Editor
TRANSITIONING FROM A DEVELOPERowned club to member-owned can be jarring. It demands the steady hand of a strong leader whose values mirror the membership and who can see the opportunities within the transition. In 2010, The Country Club at Mirasol (Palm Beach Gardens, Fla.) moved smoothly to member-owned under the guidance of General Manager/COO Matt Lambert, CCM, CAM, who has been with the club since 2003. Later that year, Lambert hired Michael Crain as Executive Chef. Twelve years later, Lambert and Crain continue collaborating and supporting one another as they find new ways to elevate and enhance the member dining experience. CLUB + RESORT CHEF (C+RC): When the members took over, you were tasked with hiring a new chef. What characteristics were you looking for? Matt Lambert (ML): We wanted someone capable of building a team, who understood we were in a dynamic growth phase and would be excited about the variety of culinary experiences we would offer. The expectations of the membership were very high when we made that hire—and they still are. C+RC: What has been Chef Crain’s biggest impact on the culinary program at Mirasol? ML: His unrelenting drive to never settle for anything less than excellent has become part of our culture. To be a club chef means you must master a balance between tradition and innovation, diversity and community. It is an ongoing challenge that evolves as the membership evolves. Chef [Crain] has done an amazing job finding this balance and listening to the membership. He takes criticism well. He cares for his team, and he’s built a positive culture where all of his culinarians are growing. C+RC: How big is the culinary operation at Mirasol? ML: We do $8.5 million in annual F&B. C+RC: How do you describe your management style? ML: I believe in transparency and empowerment. We have 13 department heads here at Mirasol. I firmly www.clubandresortchef.com
believe 13 heads are better than one. If you’re the Director of Golf, you own golf. If you’re the Chef, you own culinary. I support and collaborate with each leader based on the open, trusting environment we’ve established. C+RC: What is your favorite dish from Chef Crain? ML: We always joke that his brick chicken got him the job—it was so good—but the truth is he’s incredibly creative, and there isn’t one dish that defines him. C+RC: How do you support Chef Crain? ML: In a club as diverse as Mirasol, you’ll never please everyone. Having his back and being honest with him is critical. I won’t tip-toe around him. He wants honest feedback and to always be on the same page. I also make sure he has the tools and budget to do what he needs to do, and that he has the support of the board—which he does. C+RC: What is your organizational structure? Who does Chef Crain report to? ML: The Assistant General Manager and Executive Chef report to me. The Director of F&B reports to the AGM. If [Crain] were to leave tomorrow, I would likely have the new chef report to the AGM, but we continue to prioritize working together as a team. We have weekly meetings, and I’m at most of those because F&B is such an important element within our club. C+RC: Where do you see opportunities for improvement? ML: We are always looking to be more efficient and consistent. We strive to eliminate the ‘avoidable errors,’ as I call them. Those are the difference-makers. We may not be the flashiest club, with props and décor, but I think consistency is something we can always chase. C+RC: What’s next for Mirasol? ML: Our strategic plan calls for an enhancement to the facility, revamping the grill room and adding a second-story restaurant with a sports bar vibe. We hope to kick this project off in 2024 pending membership approval. C+RC November 2022
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PRODUCTS AT WORK
Leaning Into Aussie Beef and Lamb Lance Cook, Executive Chef of Hammock Dunes Club, is leveraging the endless culinary possibilities with Australian beef and lamb. By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor
LANCE COOK, WCMC, CEC, CCA, CFBE, FMP, CFSM, Executive Chef of Hammock Dunes Club in Palm Coast, Fla., is always looking for new ways to hone his skills and excite and engage members through his cuisine. So when he was invited to attend a two-day culinary immersion event at Ansley Golf Club in Atlanta earlier this year, he was eager for the opportunity to learn about Australia’s sustainably raised, grass-fed beef, wagyu and lamb. “The event was awesome,” says Cook. “I had worked with some of these products before, but I didn’t know much about [Meat & Livestock Australia’s] True Australian Beef & Lamb brand up to that point. I found it to be extremely informational.” He learned that sustainability is a major focus for the region. Australian lamb is entirely climate-neutral and contains 13 essential nutrients, including iron, zinc, omega-3 and B vitamins. It’s free of artificial additives and hormone growth promotants. The Australian red meat industry will be carbon-neutral by 2030. Because the animals graze on pure, natural grasslands throughout their lives, they are lean and low in cholesterol, yet full of flavor. The immersion event also focused on new and excting cuisines and offered ideas for how Australian beef and lamb could be used to showcase trends like charcuterie, bocadillos, modern Greek, island escape, Mexican 28
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comfort, salt, and savory pies. There was also a segment on “flavors on the edge,” which covered pandan, minari, garums, boondi, htipiti and frico. After the presentations and sessions, the chefs were put into teams of two to plan dishes featuring different cuts of Aussie beef and lamb. They headed to Atlanta’s Buford Farmers’ Market, equipped with a $50 gift certificate for ingredients. Then they set to work.
UP FOR THE CHALLENGE Cook was paired with Lance Warren, Executive Chef of Bent Tree Country Club in Dallas, Texas. The teams were challenged to create three different dishes for Ansley’s members to enjoy that evening. “The pairing into teams was beneficial for me personally,” says Cook. “I had known some of these chefs before, but I hadn’t spent much time with them. This opportunity helped expand my network. Chef Warren and I continue to collaborate and share menu ideas.” www.clubandresortchef.com
At the True Aussie Beef and Lamb immersion event in Atlanta, Lance Cook, Executive Chef of Hammock Dunes Club (right), was paired with Lance Warren, Executive Chef of Bent Tree CC (left). The two were tasked with creating three distinct dishes for Ansley Golf Club’s members to enjoy using Australian beef and lamb products.
For the first challenge, the chefs were asked to craft an entrée suited to a board dinner, featuring a rump roast of Australian lamb. “We decided on a fall-inspired red winemushroom-onion stewed lamb, wrapped with a baguette crostini and served with wilted greens, beet-infused asparagus, pickled white beech mushrooms and buttered broccolini tops,” says Cook. Next, the chefs had to prepare a summertime dish that could be served at the pool or golf shop. Cook and Warren were provided with grass-fed ground lamb and decided to prepare a lamb kofta with roti, a carrot-arugula-sesame salad, cucumber raita and pickled red onions. For the third and final challenge, the chefs were asked to create a dish inspired by current dining trends using ribeye. They prepared a beef tartare bocadillo with parmesan frico, tomato concasse, fried capers, red onions, olive oil, garlic aioli, garlic buds and pickled mustard seeds. “[Warren and I] had both worked with products very similar to these,” says Cook, who wanted to incorporate www.clubandresortchef.com
specific trends discussed at the event. “Our goal was to make something universally appealing and innovative.”
UPDATING THE MENU Since the event, Cook has been finding elegant ways to employ all that he learned during the immersion event. “Every three days, we offer seven new features,” he says. “And we’ve been incorporating a lot of the Australian beef and lamb products.” New and noteworthy dishes include masala, made using Australian lamb sirloin, served with cucumber slaw and a yogurt sauce, as well as a Mediterranean-style burger using ground lamb and olives, topped with cucumber, red onion and feta, served on either a brioche bun or Mediterranean bread. Hammock Dunes members also love Cook’s lamb Tbone served with a chimichurri sauce, as well as his rack of lamb with a persillade crust. “We have Aussie lamb shank on our menu right now for fall,” says Cook. “It’s braised for about 24 hours. Sometimes I serve it with gremolata, but I’ll change it up other times and do a leek confit on top.” Cook especially likes to use Australian wagyu beef for wine dinners. “We do at least one wine dinner a month,” he says. “Often, we’ll make a flat iron steak; sometimes, we make a ribeye or a filet mignon. All of these cuts are excellent quality, and the members enjoy learning the story behind these products.” C+RC November 2022
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Club + Resort Chef 29
MANAGEMENT
The Management
Mindset WHEN MICHAEL SHANNON, CEC, was named Executive Chef of Somerset Club in Boston, he was 26. He’d been sous chef at the club for five years, working and learning under Joseph Leonardi, CMC. Somerset is a smaller city club that does about $1.5 million in annual F&B, focusing on fine dining. Shannon knew the culture and the team well. But after selecting Geoffrey Lanez, MBA, CEC, as his Sous Chef, Shannon would have to restaff nearly every position—a risk Leonardi warned him of before he left. “I didn’t have any cachet as an Executive Chef yet, and it takes time to build that trust,” he says. “It was a tough year. But Leonardi was there for me throughout that process.” In that first year, Shannon found he had much to learn still about management and leadership, starting with effective communication.
In his first year as Executive Chef of Somerset Club, Michael Shannon, CEC (left), learned much about leadership and management. 30
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“As Executive Chef,” he says, “what you say and how you communicate is taken very seriously, so you need to take it very seriously, too.” Making decisions as a leader requires trusting your training, he says, working on your communication and explaining your vision. It just takes time. Six years into his role, Shannon cites humility among the most important characteristics of an Executive Chef. For him, this means “understanding that you’re never done learning, being grateful every day for your staff and giving recognition where it’s deserved.” Adam Deviney, CEC, had been an Executive Chef for a decade, including several years in the club space, when he decided to accept an Executive Sous Chef position at The Club at Mediterra (Naples, Fla.). An invitation came via a mentor relationship with Carmen Mauceri, CCM, the club’s General Manager/Chief Operating Officer. The move enabled Deviney to hone his skills and systems at a platinum-level food and beverage operation under Director of Culinary Operations Joachim Buchner, CMC, and to network with a talented group of chefs and leaders. “The experience changed me as a chef,” says Deviney. “Watching [Mauceri’s] leadership style, I saw how much they invest in staff and culinarians. It’s a good example for me going forward.” The move to Florida was never meant to be permanent, he says. And in August, Deviney accepted a position as Executive Chef of The Country Club of North Carolina in Pinehurst, N.C. It
Club chefs talk about their transition from sous to executive chef, the role of mentorship—and how they found their footing as culinary leaders. By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor
was the right fit for several reasons. “The food-and-beverage volume ($2.4 million annually) interested me; I have more control over the food than I would in a larger club,” he says. “North Carolina is home to a lot of different farms, too. It’s a great opportunity to work with high-end, local products. And Pinehurst (N.C.) offers an excellent quality of life.” With Deviney at the helm, the club expects to grow its food-and-beverage program, starting with a culinary garden and a dedicated a la carte sous chef.
MAKING AN IMPACT When Anthony Capua took over as Executive Chef of Sycamore Hills Golf Club in Fort Wayne, Ind., in 2020, he was ready to make waves as a leader and a culinarian of the club, which does about $2 million in annual F&B. “I’ve always wanted to change the way clubs operate—to modernize for the next 50 years,” says Capua. “And I had a team here ready to make it happen.” Still, he says, as a first-time Executive Chef at a new club (and in a pandemic), year one was challenging. “I was trying to balance my health, be a good husband and be a mentor,” he says. “I struggled in the first year. And I’m still learning every day.” Throughout the process, he aims always to clearly communicate and demonstrate his values and expectations to staff. “You have a responsibility to your team to ensure you’re setting the best example of what a good attitude looks www.clubandresortchef.com
Adam Deviney, CEC (pictured second from the left), joined The Country Club of North Carolina as Executive Chef in August, where he and his team will expand and improve the food-and-beverage program.
like—even on an ‘off ’ day,” Capua says. “It starts with the Executive Chef—from how you talk to a server, to how you prep, to how you clean, to how you talk with a member.” Cooking is only part of the job, he adds. Particularly in the club space, with members, it’s about personal connection. “I make the most impact being out there, with my team, with the membership, showing them that the days of chefs hiding behind closed doors are over,” he says. “I believe we can solve many of our problems by being in the front of the house, talking to our members.” Capua aims to be known as a mentor and leader, and above all, as someone who takes care of his team—a mentality he associates with his military background. When his Executive Sous Chef decided he wanted to move on from
Anthony Capua, Executive Chef of Sycamore Hills GC (middle), considers the club’s GM/COO Christopher Hampton (left) and AGM Alfredo Hildebrandt (right) among his mentors. www.clubandresortchef.com
the club a few months ago, Capua said he’d help in any way he could. “People did that for me,” he says, “and I always feel like it’s my duty as a culinarian and as a mentor to say, ‘If you’re ready, you’re ready.’” Whether or not they’re lifetime culinarians, Deviney encourages staff at The Country Club of North Carolina to further their education. “Becoming a Certified Executive Chef through the American Culinary Federation ignited a passion that wasn’t there throughout my career,” he says. “It’s opened many opportunities. It also helps with the discipline and the organization of becoming a chef.” He aspires to guide his staff and touts the benefits of having mentors throughout a chef’s career. “The mentorship aspect is different in our field,” says Somerset Club’s Shannon. “In many other industries, you work for a company, and in our field, you work for a chef. I was lucky because Chef Leonardi is extremely dedicated to his craft and cares about cooking and the membership. That passion gets you excited as a cook.” As a culinary leader, Shannon encourages competition as a vital tool for his staff. He and Lanez (now Executive Chef at The Patterson Club in Fairfield, Conn.) will expand on the topic at Miami’s 2023 Chef to Chef Conference. “Geo and I both come from competition,” says Shannon. “We realized how important it was for our development.”
To further motivate and train staff, he’s created an opt-in, professional growth plan to share their goals and select what they’d like to work on, such as technique or management skills. “When they see growth, it’s inspiring,” he says. “It makes them want to keep improving.” C+RC
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www.EustisChair.com Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation of Club + Resort Business Publication Title: Club + Resort Business Publication Number: 1556-13x Date of filing: September 29, 2022 Frequency of issue: Monthly Number of Issues Published Annually: 12 Annual Subscription Price: $75 per year Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Contact Person: Bruce Sprague Telephone: (888) 543-2447 Complete Mailing Address of Headquartersor General Business Office of Publisher: WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Publisher: WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Editor: WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Executive Editor: WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Owner: WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Scott McCafferty, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Mike Emich, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Marshall Matheson, 1111 Superior Ave. Suite 2600 Cleveland, Ohio 44114 Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None Tax Status: Not applicable
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Publication Title: Club + Resort Business Issue Date for Circulation Data: September, 2022 Net press run: Average, 10,732; last issue, 9,353 Outside County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions: Average, 9,190; last issue, 8,975 Total Paid and/or Requested Distribution: Average, 9,190; last issue, 8,975 Nonrequested distribution by mail outside county: Average, 1,352; last issue, 220 Nonrequested distribution outside the mail: Average 181, last issue, 53 Total Nonrequested Distribution: Average 1,533, last issue, 373 Total Distribution: Average, 10,723; last issue, 9,348 Copies not Distributed: Average, 9; last issue, 5 Total: Average, 10,732; last issue, 9,353 Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: Average, 85.7%; last issue, 96.0% ELECTRONIC COPY CIRCULATION Requested and Paid Electronic Copies: None Total Requested and Paid Print Copies (15c) + Requested/Paid Electronic copies (16a): Average, 9,190; last issue, 8,975 Total Requested Copy distribution (15f) + Requested/Paid Electronic copies (16a): Average, 10,732; last issue, 9,348 Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation (Both print & electronic copies) (16b divided by 16c x10 ) Average, 85.7%; last issue, 96.0% I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fi nes and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). Pat Curran, Digital Media Manager
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