WUPP MAG #14 by Pierre Rabotin

JOIN THE PARTY The largest German festival

Hotel Cambodiana

PHNOM PENH 31st OCTOBER | 1st & 2nd NOVEMBER | FROM 6PM

ASEow! H RC s n PU ticket

r you

Hosted by

Sponsored by

ADW Arbeitskreis Deutsche Wirtschaft

German Business Group Cambodia

Supported by

COSMOS SERVICES

Organised by

The CAMBODIA DAILY  tel: 010 811 190 • mail@oktoberfest-cambodia.com • www.oktoberfest-cambodia.com Tickets available at Hotel Cambodiana’s lobby, La Croisette, Dan Meats, Monument Books, U-Care stores, Meta House and at the door.

facebook.com/OktoberfestCambodia for latest updates

er r 2 ov ht fo a flig kor Wat g An

Ur Co-Founder & Managing Director Antony Hamon Ur Editor In Chief Pierre Rabotin Ur Edito Eve Watling Ur Creative Director Emmanuelle Rouvrais Ur Sales Manager Sarah Belli 0888 197 202 sarah@wuppmag.com Ur Photographers Jeremie Montessuis Julien Quentin Ur Journalists Nathan Thompson Sophie Lane Ur Project Manager Jéremie Courtot Lorenz Gaimard Clémence Trémol Anaïs Lamory Special thanks to Sentosa Mam

Dear readers As October brings back ghosts and spirits of hungry Cambodian ancestors for Pchum Ben, here at WUPP Mag we decided to raise one simple question : do you believe ? And we couldn’t have had a better panel at the office : Cambodian believers, British agnostics and French sceptics, all of which tried to unveil some of the mysteries behind some of the most common acts of faith in the Kingdom. We met shamans, fortune tellers and ghosts while attending “opening tattoo” ceremonies in some dark, hot and haunted rooms. We had a blast doing it and hope you’ll enjoy it. Maybe after you will become a believer. If not, there are many other exciting things in this issue, including new discounts and good deals to help you enjoy October. Keep following us on Facebook and visit www.wuppmag.com to find your mag and more.

Cover Photo by Jeremie Montessuis

Additional artwork by Denny Kuswantoro ..... WHAT’S UP MAGAZINE contact@wuppmag.com facebook/wupp.magazine www.wuppmag.com 097 958 7338

october P12 • Ur Event: Oktoberfest

P46 • Ur Shopping: Must have for…

P50 • Ur Wine: Match of the Month

P64 • Ur Weekend: 5 reasons to…

06. UR picture of the month 08. UR new discoveries 11. UR environement: let’s do it 12. UR event: oktoberfest 15. UR cover: do you believe ?

16. 20. 24. 26.

meeting the shaman sacred tatoos fortune tellers ghost stories

31. UR coupons 42. UR hypemaker 44. UR fashion: tropical darkness 46. UR shopping: must have for a cosy night in 49. UR how to… draw a mandala 50. UR wine: match of the month 52. UR cinema: 5 kids’ lives 54. UR photo: canon marathon

P54 • Ur Cover: Do you believe ?

58. UR playlist of the month 59. UR cocktail of the month 62. UR sport: cycling marathon 64. UR weekend: 5 reasons 66. UR khmer games 67. UR street style 68. UR agenda 70. UR sos

WHERE ?

PICTURE OF THE

MONTH by Nicolas Heu Want to be the next Picture of the Month ? Send your best shot of Cambodia that was taken in the last month to : contact@wuppmag.com

Freedom Park, Phnom Penh on September 15th, 2013.

WHAT ?

After the first day of protest to demand fair elections, CNRP’s leader Sam Rainsy is walking through a massive crowd of supporters.

WHY ?

I spent the whole day shooting the protest and was lucky enough to be very close to the action, without any press pass. Sam Rainsy closes his eyes and hopes for a brighter future. facebook.com/nicoheu.photography

UR discoveries

new discoveries Our Latest Favourite Things

Free Capoeira class

Photo: Jonas De Schrijver

OK, so it’s been running for years, but WUPP finally got our lazy butts down to the bi-weekly Brazilian dance-meetsmartial-arts Capoeira class. Run by expat enthusiasts, the class makes for a free, fun after-work workout. Search ‘Capoeira Kampuchea’ on Facebook to find out more.

Ruin

This Cambodian-Australian movie blew away judges at the Venice Film festival last month, where it was awarded the Special Orizzonti Jury Prize. The film follows the relationship of a factory worker and a prostitute on the run from the law in Cambodia’s forests. We can’t wait for its Cambodian premiere.

Spirulina

Antenna France is doing a great job dealing with nutrition problems in Cambodia: the NGO is producing spirulina, a 100% natural dietary supplement. They’re already providing the green stuff to the poorest Cambodian areas and through NGO in targeted nutrition programs. Their 2 farms produce 1 ton per year each of this product rich in useful micronutrients easily assimilated by the human body. They’re now releasing their product on the market via GreenCare Mart, the exclusive dealer, so if you feel a bit tired, start a 4 to 8 weeks therapy: you’ll see the difference www.facebook.com/AntennaCambodia.

Open Stage: Poetry at Showbox Using the concept of an open-mic night, Phnom Penh’s bards are invited to share their poetic musings on stage, whether they be brilliant or terrible. Every month at Showbox - facebook. com/showboxPP

Swing Penh WUPP says a big hello to the fresh face of Swing Penh. The official launch of the dance group at the end of September had us lindy-hopping all over the city, confirming our love of all things swing. As they say themselves, “We just love live jazz music. And even better, we love moving to live jazz music. And to take it up just one more notch, we love drinking and moving to live jazz music”. Amen to that. Swing lessons for beginners happen at Doors every Tuesday, $3pp. More info and upcoming events over at swingpenh.com

Anne Noelle Bridal

This boutique doesn’t stop at providing beautifully made evening and bridal wear. They even offer a personal fashion show for brides-tobe, bringing the models and dresses right to their living room. All staff are trained with sewing skills by NGO Samaki Sewing Network, for a dress that is beautiful from start to finish. annenoelle.com

Korean Triangle Sushi Pockets

A delightful cross between a samosa and sushi, it’s no wonder the WUPP office is addicted to these gorgeous snacks. Ingeniously wrapped so that the outer layer of seaweed doesn’t become soggy, we love its attention to detail as much as its taste. $1 each, order from Tender House at 092 490 160

Hockey Night in Cambodia That’s right Canadians: your favourite ever sport is played weekly right here in Phnom Penh. You don’t need to bring any equipment, just a team spirit and a shin-smashing attitude. Players are invited to a post-match beer afterwards. At the tennis courts behind City Villa on Thursday nights, 7PM - $5 per game to pay for equipment and court fees Email Tom at info@hockeynightincambodia.com or go to hockeynightincambodia.com for more info.

Let’s Do It !

UR environment

On the 20th October, Phnom Penh will be flooded by green-shirted litter pickers taking direct action against the city’s garbage disposal problem. The yearly ‘Let’s Do It ! Phnom Penh’ event looks to be the biggest yet - WUPP finds out more. BY EVE WATLING

If you’ve lived in Phnom Penh for over a month you’re probably so used to the silvery, fetid rubbish piles that you barely see them - even if they take up half the street. But there is a growing movement in the city that refuses to accept garbage hills as a normal part of the landscape. ‘Let’s Do It !’ began in 2008 as a day of mass litter-picking in Estonia. The incredible efforts of its 50,000 volunteers soon inspired sister movements and quickly went global, so far bringing its responsible waste disposal agenda to 107 countries. The movement encourages grassroots action to tackle the estimated 100 million tons of illegal garbage scattered worldwide, through direct plastic-gloves-and-binbags action alongside environmental education. Cambodia joined the movement in 2011, with the first ‘Let’s Do It ! Phnom Penh’ recruiting over 2,500 people to gather 10 tons of rubbish. Last year’s count grew to 6,000 volunteers. Organisers hope this year will be Cambodia’s biggest clean up yet, with 10,000 predicted to attend the

event, which takes place on the 20th of October. This year’s ‘Let’s Do It!’ goes beyond a single cleanup day, as Rithy Thul, whose collaborative workplace SmallWorld is a co-organiser of the Phnom Penh branch of ‘Let’s Do It!’, explains. “This year, there will be a series of competitions and presentation at schools and other educational institutions, furthering the long-term impact of the scheme. The ultimate goal is to encourage local communities to organise their own cleanup in their neighborhood.” Aside from its eco issues, the cleanup also works to empower people to take control of local issues. “If we see a problem we often complain but don’t take the time to solve it” says Rithy, “That makes us part of the problem. ‘Let’s do it!’ is something we want to use to push people to do what they want done.” // Want to be a part of the solution ? Go to www.letsdoitpp.com to sign up and find out more.

Photo by Sopheak Chheng

UR EVENT

prosit phnom OKTOBERFEST CAMBODIA IS BACK >>>>>>>>> BY SOPHIE LANE

Dust of your dirndls and fasten your lederhosenOktoberfest Cambodia arrives in Phnom Penh this month for three nights of traditional beerguzzling celebrations. Photos: Nick Sells / Kampuchea Party Republic

Beer, brats, and ladies dressed in dirndls. Yes, it’s that time of the year again: the world’s largest fair is coming to town. The 16-day fair in Munich has provided festive fun for millions of visitors since 1850 and is widely known as the largest and most famous German beer festival in the world. Likewise, Oktoberfest Cambodia has become an established and anticipated annual event, attracting more than 1000 people a night since it began in 2009 under the German Business Group of Cambodia (ADW). Known as a go-to night for locals, expats and travellers, the festival is a unique cultural event in Cambodia where live entertainment, traditional Bavarian food and flowing ‘liquid gold’ are the orders of the

night – and where bench-top dancing is strongly encouraged. To help get the party started (and keep it going throughout the evening) a traditional five-member Bavarian band, Die Lumpen (‘The Rascals’) are flying in from Germany for the event, which will take centre stage at Hotel Cambodiana’s idyllic outdoor Mekong Terrace for three consecutive nights. To create an event that promises to be bigger and better than the years before, a variety of local and imported beers will be on offer alongside a buffet of roast pig on a spit, grilled chicken, sauerkraut and sausages to provide party-goers with an atmosphere akin to the annual event celebrated worldwide.

Penh ! Oktoberfest Dictionary > the essentials aufstöin (v.)

A powerful request to donate a beer to a thirsty neighbour

Bopperl (v.)

An expression for a particularly pretty table neighbour

Fetznrausch (n.)

If one is totally drunk

Fackl (n.)

A young pig, often used to describe a person behaving indecently: you are eating like a “Fackl”

Noagerlzuzla (n.)

Person who drinks the last remainders from abandoned glasses

Wampn (n.)

A patronising expression for an oversized hanging belly, usually caused through a large consumption of beer over many years

> Oktoberfest facts In 2011, 6.9 million people visited the Munich festival. They drank a total of 7.5 million litres of high-octane beer brewed especially for the festival by the city’s six leading breweries, and ate 522,000 chickens and 118 oxen. Munich, the home of Oktoberfest celebrations, means ‘place of monks’. Monks in Bavaria have been the main producers and consumers of Bavarian beer for many centuries. Although they weren’t allowed to eat during fasting they were granted the right to drink beer instead. One-litre Oktoberfest glasses are popular souvenirs. Thefts of the one-litre beer glasses numbered 111,000 in 2012, while security staff fished a total of 226,000 glasses out of the bags of departing guests.

INFO:

Cambodia’s largest German festival and first ever beer festival happens on October 31st - November 2nd, 6pm-11pm, at Hotel Cambodiana, Phnom Penh. The $18 ticket includes $8 food and beverage coupons.

Buy the tickets online:

www.oktoberfest-cambodia.com facebook.com/OktoberfestCambodia

PAN’AM restaurant • No. 196, St. 19 • 010 733 210 or 023 212 170 Closed on Mondays

La Croisette italian & international cuiSine Since 1997 on the riverSide, Phnom Penh

Great cocktails & wines ItalIan and InternatIonal cuIsIne

Large outdoor terrace

we make our own bread & pasta for you 241 Sisowath Quay Phnom Penh +855 (0) 23 220 554 info@lacroisette.asia

UR cover

DO YOU BELieve ? Be warned – this month the Pchum Ben festival takes place across the country, and there’s something spooky in the air. If you notice some weird happenings around the 3rd of October, it’s probably because the gates of hell are opening, and seven generations of hungry Cambo-

dian ancestors are pouring out. Halloween has nothing on this. For the 15 days prior and until the gates are closed again on the 5th, this festival is a time for Cambodians to help their dead relatives who are suffering in hell or purgatory, by giving merit and food offerings.

To celebrate, WUPP has dedicated this magazine to all things spooky, sacred and ghostly.

Here’s what’s lined up in our bumper ‘beliefs’ issue: meeting with Cambo> P.16 Adia’s most famous shaman photojourney into the > P.20 Aworld of sacred tattoos our fortunes in the > P.24 Finding markets of Phnom Penh yourselves chills with > P.26 Give our real-life ghost stories

> P.44

Scary gets a chic makeover in our fashion shoot

> P.49 Make your own mandala

Photo: Julien Quentin

UR COVER

“I Met the Mo shaman in Our reporter Nathan Thompson travelled to Kampong Cham to meet with Um Bpros, Cambodia’s most famous - and elusive - shaman. Although he usually turns down interviews, here he opens up about his famous customers, his powers, and how he predicts the future… Although Kru Khmer literally translates into ‘Cambodian Teachers’, as I drew closer to Um Bpros’ compound it became clear it wasn’t going to be a day of blackboards and naughty kids. Kru Khmers are mediums and healers who get their power by channeling ancient spirits. Folk Buddhism, practiced by 95% of Cambodia’s population, has plenty of metaphysical room for these characters. You will find them in every village; dispensing herbal medicine, soothsaying and chanting blessings at ceremo-

nies. Folk Buddhism is something like pre-reformation Catholicism was in Europe. The lay farmers and their families found pure Buddhist practice too dry and complicated so it got spiced-up with the drama and magic of old animistic cults. The result was a hodgepodge of gods and demons hanging out on various astral planes alongside Buddha and the angels; indeed, as that anthem of Cambodian Buddhism, “Bat Sara Phanh” says, “Cambodian Buddhism contains devoted beings from ancient times”.

st Powerful cambodiaâ&#x20AC;? Text and photos by Nathan Thompson

Um Bpros is the most powerful Kru Khmer in Cambodia. He is so famous that even Hun Sen and King Norodom Sihamoni came to him to have their fortunes told. Um Bpros lives in a massive compound in Kampong Cham: half family home, half temple; extended family members walked in between shrines as big as small houses, while smiling Buddhas sat alongside stone-carved Angkorian warriors on white horses. Inside his personal palace Um Bpros sat on a rug at one end of a cavernous hall; the walls were covered

with photos of him meeting the king, the prime minister, the head of the Red Cross, and opening hospitals and schools. Behind him was a flatscreen TV with eight security feeds and 10 walkie talkies in separate stands. He wore a white robe around his waist. His torso was a web of green tattoos: over his heart was Angkor Wat, and emanating from those ogive towers were incantations in the mystical languages of Pali and Sanskrit.

UR COVER

He is so famous that even Hun Sen and King Norodom Sihamoni came to him to have their fortunes told He doesn’t usually do interviews. But today he had conferred with his spirit guide and I had the ghostly thumbs up. “There are many Kru Khmers in Cambodia but Hun Sen sees only me”, he said speaking through a translator. “It is because I am famous and well-known for being honest and spending money to help poor people. It was the King himself who gave me the title of Kru Khmer and asked me to tell his fortune. But I don’t only serve rich and famous people, anyone can come to see me. I have no set price and everyone pays by donation”. Judging from the solid gold watch on his wrist and the fact he just paid over $3 million to build a hospital in Kampong Cham, there seem to be some big players seeking his advice. Indeed, a five-star general and the governor of Kampong Cham are also clients. “I made all my money from people who came to me to know their future and for healing. Up to 400 people come every Saturday; I can see about 200 of them; last Saturday I made $1000”, he said. “The walkie talkies are for my 10 bodyguards – they have one each. The king made me an “Oknha” [a title that is bestowed on those who give large donations and do social work] and when he did that I was given six bodyguards but now I have 10”, he laughed.

Um Bpros was taught his craft by his grandfather when he was a young boy in the 1960s. “My grandfather worked in the royal palace – he was a fortune teller and I learned everything from him”, he said. “I learned the art from the age of 10 to 14 but then I stopped and moved to live in a village. I began to practice as a Kru Khmer again when I was 27. I learned a special meditation from my grandfather and now, before I can look into people’s futures, I meditate and then the Neak Tda come into my heart”. Neak Tda literally means “old people”; in this context the term refers to the ancient spirits who live on Phnom Kulen – a mountain in Siem Riep that is the holy birthplace of the Angkorian king Jayavarman II. Indeed, other fortune tellers and Kru Khmers have told me their spirit informants also hail from this Olympian address. Um Bpros continued, “When the Neak Tda are in my heart I cannot speak, they speak through me in many different languages”. I asked if they would help Um Bpros speak to me in English now. But unfortunately he only channels the Neak Tda on Saturdays. “If you return on Saturday then the Neak Tda will talk to you in English, Spanish, any language you like”, he said. “When the Neak Tda come into my body my spirit leaves and when they go my spirit returns and I don’t remember anything”. He went

Behind him was a flatscreen TV with eight security feeds and 10 walkie talkies in separate stands

on, “the Neak Tda came to me first when I was young; they helped me to become a good person, a wealthy and respected person, this is how you can tell that they are good spirits. The witches and Kru Khmers who deal with curses are helped by the bad kind of Neak Tda.” Um Bpros unfolded two tattered pieces of red cloth covered in occult scribbles and tantric charts, “these are Sanskrit spells”, he said. “I have them written on these cloths but I also have them tattooed on my body so I can take them with me when I travel and in case I ever lose the originals. Some temples will not allow these spells inside so, in these cases, I copy from my body. The tattoos also bless me with health and good luck”. Will the same tattoos bless anyone? “No, only me because I have trained in meditation and have the Neak Tda to visit me”, he said. Traditional Cambodian healing often involves tinctures of herbs. “To heal people,

I give them herbs mixed with alcohol”, he said. He pulled out two X-rays of a shinbone. One showed the bone splintered while the other showed the bone white and solid. “This healing happened in two weeks. I applied herbs mixed with a little Hennessey to this [he showed a bamboo splint] and then their leg was healed. When a person has a headache or cold I give them herbs which they eat and they feel better”. I have met other Kru Khmers who claim to do the same kind of things as Um Bpros but are infinitely less successful. The difference is that Um Bpros has that combination of intelligence, charisma and luck that makes men rich – he’s like those guys on Dragon’s Den but more humble, and perhaps that’s his strongest magic power. He gave a charming smile: “when I meditate I clear my mind and think of only good things and then the good things come”.

UR COVER

divine ink Photos by Julien quentin | text by eve watling

Sacred Tattoos In Buddhist countries around Southeast Asia, sacred tattoos intricately pattern the bodies of believers who find good luck and protection in them. Traditions vary: a snake tribe in Pakokku, Burma use venom as ink. Master tattooist monks of Northern Thailand become renowned through word of mouth and are tricky to find. The regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s combination of animist, Buddhist, and Hindu beliefs have created a tapestry of symbols, images and writings carried on the body, passed on from one generation to the next. The Yantra tattoo finds its roots in Cambodia. Although the tradition has largely shifted over the border to Thailand, the practice is still kept alive in pagodas and small tattoo parlours around the country.

Although they are sometimes done for cosmetic reasons, the rows of rounded Khmer script and pagoda-spire squiggles of the Yantras, as well as drawings of hybrid animals resembling forgotten Hindu gods, are mostly imbued with deep spiritual significance. Depending on the needs, the tattoo signifies a piece of magic that protects the wearer or brings them luck. A ritual is performed and offerings given to an altar before the tattoo is inked.

UR COVER

Yantra tattoos can be designed to give the wearer love, money and power. It is also common for soldiers and boxers to get tattooed in order to protect them from their dangerous jobs. Along with the Buddhist scripts, animals are often used to signify a certain wanted characteristic. Tigers represent strength, while a fish represents freedom.

However, the good luck doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t flow for free - the tattoos come with a catch. Both the artist and the customer must live in an honest and healthy way or else the magic does not work. Drinking, lying and playing cards are strictly forbidden, and there are often other rules specific to the personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s particular tattoo. But for most people with Yantras, the restrictions are worth it, and belief in their power is held in steadfast faith. Perhaps the enforcement of a wholesome lifestyle is a contributing factor of their reputed success. But even magic sceptics have to admire the beauty of this Khmer art form.

> Photos taken at: Chann Traâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tattoo Shop, No. 94 St. 233 012 676 152 017 355 076

UR COVER

Cards, Palms tusks WE TRIED IT: FINDING OUR FORTUNES IN THE NOOKS OF PHNOM PENH

BY EVE WATLING

In the name of hardline scientific journalistic enquiry, I joined two WUPP staffers (Pierre and Sentosa) for a journey around Phnom Penh’s fortune tellers to find out what our futures hold. I was nervous of dire predictions, but luckily I think they realised that if they got a rep as a gloom and doom naysayer they wouldn’t get many returning customers. However, despite the suspected sugar-coating, we were surprised by some of the accuracy of (some of) the predictions. Here’s what we discovered about our rosy futures.

Psar kandal: The crowd pleaser Fortune tellers riddle this cramped and steamy market. We chose an elderly Vietnamese woman with silver sparkly nail polish, who told our fortune between yelling at a glue-sniffing street kid who had come to watch. Mine and Pierre’s fortunes were suspiciously similar – we have good fortune ahead and will become rich beyond our wildest dreams. Alarmingly, she also predicted I would have three or four children. After reading our palms and the cards, she had us pick a well-worn Vietnamese tarot card – which naturally told us we would become very, very rich.

Accuracy: 2/10 Cost: $2.50 each

and Elephant Psar Orussey: The unexpected

This teller had a bizarre talent: spotting hidden moles around the body, ‘seeing’ a mole beneath Sentosa’s left boob. She then went on correctly predict that she was about to leave the country and that life would be better for her there. She also said she was ‘whiney’. Most surprising was Pierre’s fortune Accuracy: 8/10 - she told him he had a mole ‘down Price: $2.50 each below’ which he didn’t even know about. Measuring his face with a bit of string, she said he was ‘fucking clever’, but needed to watch out for clingy Cambodian women. Creepily, two of us were told that our mothers had had an abortion before we were born, one of which was following us around, looking out for us wherever we went.

Near Wat Phnom: The insightful Across the road from the fortune teller’s Mecca that is Wat Phnom, we visited an exmonk who claims to hear a Buddha spirit telling him the answers to our questions. As usual, we were told that we are destined to a ripe old age and plenty of cash. Interestingly, the teller saw lotus flowers in Pierre’s palms, saying he used to be best friends with a higher being who will protect him throughout every incarnation. It was less flattering for me: I asked about my relationship and pulled a card to represent myself – the ace of spades, the pan-cultural card of the rascal. After the palm and card readings, he stuck a small piece of gold leaf to our palms; sprayed it with floral smelling chemical soap, tapped it with an elephant tusk, and gently rubbed the gold back off while chanting. This will supposedly give us good luck in times to come – and maybe stop my rascally tendencies.

Accuracy: 9/10 Price: $5 each

UR COVER

Tales from world

by WUPP

Your creepy real-life ghost stories The Kids Are Not Alright “Before the Khmer Rouge, me and my family travelled to Thailand to escape. On the way we had to camp on a mountain. From our camp, I could see another family’s hut and fire. There were 3 or 4 children running around and around the fire all night. The next day I walked over to the hut and asked the family there about their kids – but they only had a 2 month old daughter. The kids I saw were actually Meringkongville – benign child-ghosts who take care of people. That night the family at the hut made an offering to them as thanks.” // Sokunthea, Age 56

Watch out for the bird of death Some believe that when a person is close to death, a bird always circles their house for days on end, and its cry foretells sickness and death. However the skeptical believe that it’s just looking for rats that gather round some houses.

the Under-

Unwelcome Guests

One Arm In The Dark “One day, my husband got up early to go to work, and I remained asleep in bed. Suddenly, I felt a hard pressing feeling on top of me, and I realised that a ghost was sitting on top of me ! I started chanting Pali verses to scare it away, but it wasn’t scared – instead it pressed its arm right up against my face. Its skin was tough and wrinkly like an elephant’s. Then it pushed my head so hard that I flew across to the other side of the bed, before disappearing.” // Eung, Age 71

“I was in Mondulkiri province with four other commanders, and we were looking for a place to stay for a while. I was told there was a house in the village we could sleep for free. The first few nights we slept there, we would always wake up outdoors with no memory of how we had got there – at first we put it down to our drinking. Eventually, a neighbor told us that a girl had died suddenly in the house before we arrived, crushed when a closet had fallen on her. I went to the temple to get protection from the ghost, but then she came to me in a dream and said “It’s my own house ! You’re trying to get me out!”. At that point, we all felt bad for the girl, and left the house. “ // Sokeun, Age 52

The Ghost Tree

some People believe that the bodhi tree is always haunted. The ghosts of mothers who died in childbirth can be heard weeping in the upper branches. 27

WUPP 1st A

THANK YOU F

NNIVERSARY

OR COMING !

UR events

HYPEMAKER WHAT WE’RE EXCITED ABOUT IN OCTOBER BY EVE WATLING

CINEMA >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Film Casting Fancy yourself as a bit of a thespian ? Answer the casting call of a new French production that will be shot between Kampot and Phnom Penh starting in mid-November. If you are a male and Western, you can be an extra, and French-speaking actors between 18 and 40 years old are also wanted. Call 095 612 648 or email lesoldatblanc@gmail.com. Producers are also looking for Cambodian or Vietnamese people from France. Men should be between 20 and 60 years old, and women between 25 and 35 years old, and some girls between 5 and 7 years old. If you are a Japanese male between 30 and 40 years old, they would also like to hear from you. Call 012 627 153. Break a leg !

CULTURE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Musical and Performing Arts in Cambodia: Reviving Artistic Heritage Audiovisual Heritage 2013, Bophana and Cambodia Living Arts are teaming up for a day of celebrations of Khmer music and other art forms, some of which are in danger of being lost completely. The packed day at the Bophana centre includes a ‘Cambodian Music: Then and Now’ workshop, live traditional music, and an exhibition of Cambodian music through the ages. The day ends with cocktails and the launch of a CD of jangly and groovesome Cambodian rock. A must see for music lovers and Khmer cultural heritage fans alike. Bophana Centre - Friday, October 25th, 2pm - late.

POP-UP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> History of Things to Come journalist, turn up to learn how to develop ideas, get inspired, and learn about the newest techy tricks – or if you’ve got a special area of expertise, sign up to be a speaker yourself. Institute of Technology Cambodia – 19th-20th October, 8am-5.30pm. 2013. barcampphnompenh.org

The Kick Off: Kampuchea Balopp Launch powered by WUPP MAG and Score Bar

Phnom Penh’s premiere vintage sale returns this month. Refresh your wardrobe with genuine vintage clothes, which organiser Amanda Bloom strictly classifies as over 20 years old. A relief to curvier women who are tired of squeezing into market clothes made for Asian teenagers. Sale happening 25th- 29th October, at #21 street 306, next to Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf. Visit www.facebook.com/thehistoryofthingstocome for more details.

The youth development NGO is bringing rugby to Phnom Penh in order to engage the city’s kids and teach them to be healthy and inclusive. Join them for their official launch sponsored by WUPP Mag with a live band, and get to know more about the organisation and the individuals behind it. Score Bar Friday October 11, 2013. 7PM For more info: kampuchearugby.com

BarCamp Phnom Penh Technophiles rejoice this month brings BarCamp to town, a two-day open technology conference focusing mainly on the Web, mobiles and technology. Whether you’re an entrepreneur, a computer geek or digital

UR fashion

tropical darkness Goth hits Cambodia

< Sunglasses, $10, Paperdolls Bodysuit, $5, Color Vintage > Shoes, $58, Paperdolls Photo : Arnold Roykha Model : Alethea Odrerir Hair & makeup : Bi Salon # 213AEo St. 310 Tel: 023-6-324-524 / 097-798-1122

UR shopping

MUST HAVE …

for a cosy night in Pchum Ben giving you the chills ? Snuggle away from the spirits and have a cosy night in…

Pick up some scary DVDs from the Russian Market Prices vary

Order in some homemade icecream $2.50 per cup, Bonbon Ice Cream… facebook.com/pages/ Bonbon-Ice-cream

…and tuck into some Katy Peri’s Peri Peri Pizza Prices start at $2.50 facebook.com/KatyPerisChicken

Get knitting for cool season knitting needles and yarn, top floor of O’Russey market Prices vary

Snuggle up on these cushions by Tooniq Prices vary between $10 and $20 - tooniq.com

Make your beers as cosy as you are with a handmade crochet beer holder $6-9, AnnieToys annietoys.com

Make yourself some leopard print nail art China Glaze nail polish $8 per bottle, from Chaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nails and Tips & Toes. facebook.com/pages/ Chanails-Nail-n-Wax-Salon

Play a game of CambOpoly - Buy and sell your favourite Cambodian streets, psars, hotels and sangkats - but be careful not to be sent to the Medical Centre $55, Smateria (#8EO, Street 57 near Street 278)

NEW!!!

GARDEN BRUNCH ON SATURDAYS

es, s , quich Crêpes ead, compote r b r e g gin ats her tre and ot Hot drink (free refill), fresh fruit juice and 3 dishes from our brunch menu for $ 8.50! #190 street 51 (Pasteur), BKK 1 between streets 360 and 370

Garden café

Home boutique

PHNOM PENH 012 505 301 (Fr., Eng.), 012 907 193 (Kh., Eng.)

by Eve Watling

vy o Lé Brun

f Truf

ert

Inspired by the lovely Yantra tattoo designs on pg. 20 and want to make your own ? We met up with Siem Reap-based artist Bruno Lévy Truffert, whose exhibition of Angkor Wat mandalas is currently displayed in Phnom Penh.

1) In pencil, draw a cross dividing the paper into four equal corners (fig.1). Then draw a small circle in the middle, and a grid of circles and squares concentrically around it (fig.2 is an example) 2) Decide which divine symbol will be the heart of your mandala, and the inspiration for the patterns and motifs that will grow out of it. Bruno uses anything from a rose to a dollar sign. In pen, draw the divinity in the central circle in the middle of the mandala. 3) Chose which building it will be housed in. Using the grid as a guideline, draw the building motif in one quarter of the paper in the style you chose (fig. 3) – perhaps flat and labyrinthine in Tibetan style, or using Bruno’s realist 3D towers. Then copy the exact same building motif in each of the four corners so that the mandala is symmetrical. 4) Do the same for the next layer of the mandala, representing the ‘world’ layer, for example with a pattern of trees. The final outer layer should represent the universe. Draw some shapes on the template lines, and some shapes between the lines, to make a more pleasing design. 5) Colour your mandala

la manda Bruno’s vem ? re o want m ues until No in Octod ! Still finishe staurant cont on until midInfo: is la a d is n re . a e s d s k m in r u Your ta Ho amar re wo ion at T ibit at the Me m to see mo o exhibit h .c x t e e e n -pla d th ber, an www.angkor it ber. Vis

UR wine

Wine & Food “Match of the Month”

Discover our monthly feature on how to pair wine and food. Two wines and two recipes by one chef from an exciting restaurant to make sure you become the best host in the city.

Paella

Negra

Ingredients

Small squids with ink sacs (200g), 8 king prawns, 1 chopped onion, chopped garlic, 2 chopped peppers, 4 peeled tomatoes, de-seeded and chopped, Spanish paella rice (400g), pimenton de la vera (Spanish Paprika), olive oil, salt, hot seafood stock (0.8L)

How to cook

Clean the squid, keeping the ink sacs separate, and either leave the whole squid (if very small) or cut into pieces. Heat some oil in a pan and sauté the onion and the garlic. Add the squid and tomatoes and cook for a few minutes. Add the peppers, salt and the ink, and stir for 5 to 8 minutes. Add the rice and stir well, then add the stock and continue cooking on a high heat until you see the rice (the stock evaporates). Check the salt and immediately transfer the paella into the oven, and cook until the rice is al dente.

Cotes du Rhône Guigal

It kicks off with vivid berries and spice with a round and smooth palate of berry fruit and soft tannins. Nicely balanced and fresh with lots of appeal, it’s a wine that will make plenty of new friends.

Why they match perfectly

People might automatically think of pairing paella with a white wine. It actually goes perfectly with a red wine, and especially this Cotes du Rhones from Guigal. This wine has very low tannin and the spice and red berries match the rich but elegant dish perfectly. Avoid ‘fruit-bombs’ or overly alcoholic, tannic reds.

The Chef Gisela Salazar Golding was born in Caracas, Venezuela. At 15, she was already cooking in professional kitchens. She embarked in a journey of culinary experiences around Spain, Venezuela, Ireland, France, China, before finally arriving here in Cambodia. She now brings to Tepui at Chinese House an inspiring menu highlighting her love affair with Asia and South America

Sea Bass Ceviche Ingredients

Sea bass fillet (400g), cleaned and cut into small pieces, 1 red onion, chopped coriander to taste, chopped chili to taste, juice from 10 limes, olive oil, salt.

How to cook

Cut the red onion in julienne, and throw in a bowl with the coriander and finely chopped chili. Add the sea bass and marinate it with the lime juice. Add salt to taste, and let rest for one hour (the salt and lime will ‘cook’ it). When serving, add a bit of olive oil.

Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc, by Henri Bourgeois, Val de Loire

This white wine is an overachiever, with elegant balance and good complexity – from sour lemon to mineral to the fresh essence of a herb garden.

Why they match perfectly

Light bodied, citrusy & tangy, Le Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon blanc compliments perfectly the herbaceous flavors of the Ceviche.

The Place : Tepui at Chinese House Tepui offers a cuisine influenced by Asian flavors, with a Mediterranean & South American touch, while its lounge bar & art gallery offers cocktail creations with Asian accents. The Chinese House, a destination itself, was built in 1903 with an original combination of Chinese architecture and French colonial style. No. 45 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh 023 991 514 www.tepui.asia/

Those wines are exclusively distributed by Celliers d’Asie, available at red apron boutique and in many other restaurants and outlets in Cambodia…

Red Apron wine

Boutique & restaurant No. 15-17Eo, St. 240, PP 023 990 951 / 017 588 191 facebook.com/RedApronSt240

UR cinema

In Production: Being a child in Cambodia

by eve watling

A child labourer neglects his cows to secretly watch a school lesson. A boy defies his guards and steals eggs in a Khmer Rouge labour camp. A well-todo girl follows a street vendor into a world of poverty. Although these stories take place in different times, places and genres, they all have the same aim: to explore what it means to be a child in Cambodia. 5 Kids’ Lives is the working title of the newest project from the Cambodian ‘Kon Khmer Koun Khmer’ film collective (also known as 4K). It began when some of the film-makers realised that they all had project ideas that centred round the life of a child. They decided to team together to create an 80 minute film consisting of five individual short films, each directed by a different 4K member. To turn the film into a cohesive whole, they plan to have a single camera style that weaves the films together. “It could freak people out”, chuckles Rithea Phichith, whose film ‘The Missing Moment’ makes up one of the five short films. “Some people who we have approached for funding have told us it is not commercially viable. I’ll be happy if the film inspires people, but I’m not wor-

ried that people might freak out. I know that it’s a new way of thinking and making films.” ‘The Missing Moment’ came out of a chance discussion. “What would you do if time stopped for an hour?” his friend asked. That question sparked Rithea’s imagination, and resulted in the story of a small boy whose mother has died, who lives unhappily with his father and new stepmother. One day, time freezes, and he travels down to the local lake, where he finds his mother waiting for him.

“5 Kids’ lives”

But despite the supernatural elements of the story, Rithea insists that it’s not surreal or magical in the style of other young Asian directors such as Apichatpong Weerasethakul or Jia Zhangke, or like 1970’s Cambodian films. “Some people suggested that I make it super-fantasy – like the mother flying down from the sky to meet the kid. But what inspires me are films talking about people doing everyday things. It’s more about the psychological space of the child.” To allow time for funding (4K has turned to crowdsourcing website Indiegogo alongside more traditional methods) and to allow the project space to evolve, the films are being shot one at a time. The filmmakers hope to release Five Kid’s Lives within the next 6 months. Afterwards Rithea hopes that the 4K filmmakers will have the confidence and experience to work on a feature-length film. Hopefully,

the project will let young filmmaker’s thoughts and ambitions be seen, as well as those of Cambodian kids.

INFO: Visit konkhmerkounkhmer.wordpress. com to find out more about Kon Khmer Koun Khmer

What is 4K?

Kon Khmer Koun Khmer is a film collective of around 60 members, started in 2009 by French-Cambodian film-maker Davy Chou. 4K’s first project, the film “Twin Diamonds” was completed in 2009 after six months of training with Chou, and was the first film in Cambodia to be made entirely by students. Since then, they have gone on to host exhibitions and run the @FilmCampKH event.

UR EVENT

Canon Photo As the hot season comes to an end, it’s not just sporty people that are taking advantage of the cooling air: this month Phnom Penh hosts the third annual Canon Photo Marathon that works out participant’s creativity as well as their leg muscles. by Eve Watling The Canon marathoners may be zipping round the city, but speed isn’t the priority – instead they will be trying to capture the best image of the city that falls under the photo run’s three secret categories, which will be revealed one at a time during the day. After a theme is revealed, participants have just two hours to get a good shot. But when the two hours are up, the fun isn’t over – instead, the next of the three themes will be announced, and another two-hour time limit began. The marathon looks set to be an action-packed, creative, and possibly exhausting day. But don’t be intimidated if you’re just a casual snapper with a crummy camera. Everybody of all ages, abilities, and technological acumen are welcome to join in. One of last years’ 600 participants included a six year old, who was snapping away like the best of them. Instead of being at a disadvantage, the child’s diminutive height meant that the pictures produced literally showed the judges Phnom Penh from a whole new angle. Three winners will be picked for each of the day’s three themes at 4.30pm of the very same day. Photos will be judged by a jury panel that are looking for relevance to the theme, creativity in theme interpretation,

use of colours and light, and composition of picture. The nine eventual photo champions will have the chance to win prizes from Canon and other sponsors, and will be invited to a professional 3-day photography clinic. But aside from the prizes, the chance to reset the way you see the city and practice your photography skills are surely the day’s true draw. Happy snapping... Info: The 3rd edition of the Canon PhotoMarathon will be held on Sunday 27th October 2013 at the Chaktomuk Conference Hall from 7am to 5pm. Online registration on i-Qlick Facebook page will start on 14th October 2013 on facebook.com/ iQlickCambodia. Or walk-in to register at i-Qlick Canon showroom #146, Preah Sihanouk Boulevard, Phnom Penh, Cambodia +855(0)95 873 685. For more information, please visit i-Qlick’s official website (i-qlick. com) and Facebook page (facebook.com/ iQlickCambodia).

  

Marathon Last Year’s Winners Revisited... WUPP Looks Back

topic: “Colour” Winner: Tang Bunthao

Colour is indeed the heart of Tang’s delicious image. Rich blues and earthy tones are deepened by the interesting textures on display. It’s lovely to see a restrained, Zenlike composition coming from hectic Phnom Penh – a true pocket of calm.

topic: “Communication” Winner: Ly Sotheany Ly chose to focus on the city’s jungle-like tangles of telephone wires for this tricky theme. Although we would liked to have seen something a little more original, we do admire the strong composition of this black and white shot.

topic: “Tradition & Culture” Winner: Chheng Kimhong We love the unexpectedness of Chheng’s composition – the stone carver’s hands seem as busy and multifaceted as a Shiva statue. The light falling on the Bhudda’s face picks it out as a focal point and makes the skin of the stone seem soft and human.

BACK

STAGE

COCKTAIL BAR

#377, Sisowath Quay (near FCC) | Phnom Penh | +855 (0) 83 79 39 47 facebook.com/backstagephnompenh

T OF S I L H PLAEYMONT TH

DJ maurice

Listen to DJ Maurice’s exclusive set only on : wuppmag.com

Occasional DJ and full time IT Advisor for Oxfam Cambodia, Kim Maurice thrives to construct and design multimedia platforms. Part of a DJ La Gêne collective in Montreal and a queer event organizer, Kim’s background is highly diverse, having worked as a designer, art director, and photographer. A current project-in-progress is a documentary about non-traditional women’s work in Phnom Penh, regarding the issues these women must overcome as a collective minority. “I am totally crazy about post-punk, nu-disco and electro” Kim says about the playlist, “I choose to use down-beat remixes that combine old 80’s electronic style with new modern indie/folk /electro.”

The Smiths - This Charming Man (Luis Leon Bootleg)

Asaf Avidan - Maybe You Are (Vijay & Sofia Zlatko)

“The Smiths ! The music from this New Wave 80’s classic band matches very well with electro beats mixed by Blankhaus Music. Cleverly put together - listen to it very loud in a small dark room”.

“I fell in love with the voice of AsafAvidan the first time I listened to ‘Maybe You Are’. It’s a downtempo remix by Belgians Vijay and Sofia Zlatcko from Bruxelles. They cleverly mix electoclash and nu-disco. I’m in love”

HAIM - Falling (Duke Dumont Remix) “After having listened to the original track by HAIM which I thought was genius, this remix got my attention. It has a catchy melody, and Duke Dumont is a sensitive DJ”

Flume - Insane Feat. Moon Holiday “I love Flume. Their songs give me shivers and I want to share the feeling”

Solange - Losing You (Cyril Hahn Remix) “When ‘Losing You’ came out, I listened to it non-stop. This remix by Cyril Hahn is a nu-disco track, easy and dancy at the same time.”

We Are Planets (Oliver Koletzki Remix) “Feeling like dancing, drinking and seducing... that’s what this track does to me”

Chela - “Romanticise” “I love the voice of the singer in this track. It reminds me of Paula Abdul and Debbie Gibson. After 32 listenings, I’m still left wanting for more...”

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

“Femme Fatale” As Cambodia’s thirst for cocktails grows, bars are popping up everywhere selling everything from buckets of e-numbers to crisply mouth-watering elixirs. WUPP lends a hand to help you serve up a slice of the latter, for a fun cocktail-slurping night that tastes great, but doesn’t break the bank. We headed over to Elephant Bar where we discovered the ‘Femme Fatale’, a signature cocktail commemorating the visit of Jacky Kennedy in Cambodia where she left a vivid memory.

The history behind the cocktail In 1967, America’s unofficial roving ambassador Jaqueline Kennedy visited Cambodia to fulfill “a lifelong dream of seeing Angkor Wat.” Besides visiting the ancient temples, she found time to admire Prince Norodom Sihanouk’s own jazz compositions – The Evening I Met You – as well as the famous rouge Champagne cocktail in the Elephant Bar. Years later when Raffles Hotel Le Royal was being renovated, the glass she drank from - which still had her lipstick mark on it - was found.

Ingredients : - 10ml Crème de Fraises des Bois (wild strawberry liquor) - 5 ml Cognac - 120 ml of Champagne

Instructions :

INFO: Elephant Bar at Raffles Hotel Le Royal 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, Sangkat Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh

Build directly in the glass, top up with champagne and garnish with a purple orchid flower.

True taste of Italy, unique to Cambodia ! Natural flavours and textures. Terrazza is the combination of this culinary holy trinity of dining exellence. Our Chef will prepare Italian culinary masterpieces that will take you on a dream journey across Italy. We also deliver !

Opening time: 12pm - 10:30pm daily

High quality Italian products for your business ! We are importing highest quality products from Italy that can nicely complement your offer at your restaurant, shop… True “dolce vita” style! Please check www.terrazza.asia.

Fresh and authentic Italian products ! Our Deli shop is a home to the authentic Italian products of highest quality. Stop by whenever you feel like preparing an awesome Italian meal at home should that be a romantic dinner, family lunch or a little bite.

Opening time: 9am - 10pm daily 1c, Street 282, BKK1 Phnom Penh, Cambodia +855 (0) 23 214 660 reservations@terrazza.asia

UR SPORT

gearing up : cycl WE’ RE ROUTING FOR YOU !

BY EVE WATLING

Bike lovers unite – October and November will get your spokes in a spin, as two of Cambodia’s most stunning beauty spots welcome the country’s cyclists as they pedal their way to a good cause.

> Bokor Bike Course Map Popokvil Waterfall

Rice Fields Water Dam

Prasat Proassath

Showroom

Turtle Rock

Thansur Bokor Highland Resort

Tea Farm

Wat Sampov Pram

This month, the misty climes of Bokor Mountain National Park are set to play host to first international Thansur Bokor bike race and half marathon. Cyclists can take part in a 30km or 50km bike race, while runners can run anywhere from 3km to a half marathon. Medals, trophies and prizes are up for grabs, and all money raised will go to the Cambodian Red Cross.

Mountain Sea

Old Catholic Church

Finish Old Casino

Lok Yeay Monument Black Palace

Veal Pouch Waterfall

Guardian of the Forest View of Kampot Province

50km Race 30km Race

Start

// First Thansur Bokor International Half Marathon and Bicycle takes place on Saturday and Sunday the 26th-27th of October on Bokor mountain, Kampot province. Bike race costs between $10-$35 to register depending on track length and nationality. http://www. thansurbokor.com

ing marathonS angkor wat < cycle Map

100km (4laps)

Banteay Prei Preah Khan

Krol Ko

Neak Pean

Ta Som

If you still have the bike bug, cruise over to the annual Siem Reap Bike 4Kids cycle Ta Keo ride in November. IndividuEast als, friends and families of all Mebon Bayon ages and fitness levels are Ta Prohm invited to meander through the winding, leaf-fringed Angkor Thom Banteay Kdei paths of Angkor Wat. WhethPrasat Bat Chum er taking part in the challenging 100km race, or the more Prasat Kravan leisurely 30km ride and 17km Angkor Wat START / FINISH EVENT AREA family ride, cyclists will be enjoying the sights as they raise money for a good cause. In its eighth year, the cycle ride has so far raised US$150,000 for vulnerable children and victims of sex trafficking. This year looks set to be the biggest yet, as they aim for the $60,000 mark. Elephants Terrace

Scale

2000 foot 1km

// The Angkor Wat Bike4Kids happens on Saturday 30th November in Siem Reap. Sign up at www.bike4kids.org

It’s not surprising that cycle events are popping up across the country; October and November are the best time to pump up those flat tires and get back on the road, as the end of the rainy hot season means that temperatures are cooling but the countryside is still green and lush. There’s never been a better time to get fit, have fun and experience Cambodia’s national treats. And no, you can’t hire a cyclo guy to do the pedaling for you ! 63

UR weekend

5 REASONS TO… By pierre rabotin The holidays are coming up: do you really want to spend them rotating between Pontoon and your squalid hungover bedroom den? Here is why you should use this time to get out of the city, soak up some rays, and try something new.

See the dolphins that look like hippos

Of course it’s not exactly going to Alaska to watch some ma jestic blue whales jumping out of water with the sun setting in the background, but the Irrawaddy dolphins are one of the last species of fresh water dolphins in the world and the main attraction if you head to Kratie Province. Watch the dolphins frolick in the Mekong from the riverside or by boat. Best viewing spots are at Kampi village, 15 km north of Kratie, or Koh Rougniv island.

Dirt Bike in Bokor

Especially nice these days when heat strikes like a motherf****r is renting some dirt bikes and hitting Bokor Mountain to experience some nice chilled wind on your face: you’ll discover you can actually get cold in Cambodia. Take a look at some old buildings and enjoy amazing view - before all of it becomes a huge city with spaceship-shaped hotels and casinos. End your day with a dip in the river before having some serious ribs in town. In October WUPP Mag is also sponsoring the second leg of the Drop Dead Disco tour that started in Phnom Penh last month – don’t miss it! Drop dead Disco @ Naga House, Kampot October 5th

leave phnom penh for the holidays #3

Hike to the jungle above the city

In Kep, you can eat shrimps flambé with Pastis ! Isn’t it a good reason to go to the seaside town? It’s also a perfect spot for hiking, as the well cared for Kep National Park has marked trails that will lead you (if you wish) to the jungle above the city. The best way to end up your walk is at the Sunset Rock guesthouse, to enjoy the sunset, and sip cocktails well into the evening.

leaving is #5 Because actually less expensive than staying

And you know it ! You’re too used to the damages a night out on street 51 can do to your wallet, liver and pride. For the getting-the-hell-out-of-here part, Giant Ibis bus is a reliable and affordable company - you can be sure you’ll arrive on time. Cheap accommodation in the provinces are two a penny. And if you want some advice: don’t bring your laptop - it’s even better.

Try some Cambodian sashimi

Battambang province mixes two different aspects: a beautiful countryside known by the tourists for the bamboo train and the millions of bats leaving their cave everyday at 6pm, and a rich cultural life in the city due to the presence of the art school Phare Ponleu Selpak. True adventurers should try the wine produced in the province (and give their taste buds a lashing)! A less well-known fact is that Battambang is also one of the best places in Cambodia to get knaim, or ‘Cambodian sashimi’. This delicious little savory treat was originally wrapped in edible leaves, but it is now commonly wrapped in unromantic-but-efficient finger-sized plastic bags.

KHMER GAMES Cambodian Chess by Eve Watling & Sochetra Sok Illustation by Putree Ly Played everywhere from cafes to barbershops, “Ouk Chatrang” has been played at least since the 12th century – look out for depictions of the game in bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat. The rowdy enjoyment that it causes (so opposed to the solitary brow-furrowing we are used to) is simply because – in true sociable and fun-loving Cambodian spirit – it is often played as two teams rather than one-on-one. So go and surprise the cafe players with your skill – just remember to cry “Ouk” instead of “Check!”

Setting Up (see illustration) There are only two differences from international chess in the set up. The most noticeable one is that the “pawn” pieces are lined up one row forward on the board. The second difference is that the “king” pieces don’t face each other – they always go on the left of the queen. Another thing – when the “pawn” reach the end of the board the piece flips over, revealing a crown embossed on the bottom. From then on, the pawn becomes a queen.

Aspasie Song

is a 17 year old high school student, based in Phnom Penh

Where are you shopping? I love Esquisse. They have a variety of cute dresses, and semi-formal but casual clothes. I look for shorts, cute dresses, and sleeveless shirts. I don’t shop much in Phnom Penh; I mainly go to Korea for stores such as H&M and Forever 21. What is your style? With my outfits, I try to look as casual as I can while adding a few accessories

on top. I like fitted clothes, so I regularly wear skinny jeans and shorts. What’s your current obsession ? I’m currently obsessing over crop tops and sweaters. Crop tops are adorable! They make me look a lot cuter and petite. Sweaters and shorts are a great combo. Top: H&M • Trousers: I’m Jeans • Tank: Russian Market • Bracelet: Accessorize • Shoes: VNC • Bag: Doriance

Photo: Sentosa Mam

UR events

•agenda• WUPP EVENTS >>>>>>>>>>>>> WUPP Kick Off Party @Score Bar October 11th at 7PM, Charity Event for Kampuchea Ballop!

WUPP 5* Networking Dinner @Doors October 24th

WUPP Casillero Del Diablo Halloween Party @Chinese (Haunted) House October 31st

NOT TO MISS >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

STRANGEFRUIT tech house & balaeric beats

BACK

STAGE

COCKTAIL BAR

12 OCOTBER13 from 10pm > late

Wine Tastings @Sofitel Phokeethra, Oct 3rd, 6PM BENNY LACKNER TRIO Top Jazz Concert @Meta House, Oct 3rd, 8PM DJ Angelo a famouse turntablist @Pontoon, Oct 4th, 9PM DJ Chantal and Coolhand Luc Special Queer Night @BACKSTAGE, Oct 10th, 9PM The FUMES @Equinox, Oct 11th, 9PM BOOMBOX (Phatt Controller) drum&bass session @BACKSTAGE, Oct 11th, 10PM PNC Charity Gala Dinner @Sofitel Phokeethra, Oct 12th, 5:30PM DJ Strangfruit @BACKSTAGE, Oct 12th, 10PM Kimchi Collective @BACKSTAGE, Oct 18th, 10PM German Octoberfest at Little Kitchen @Meta House, Oct 19th, 6:30PM Party in Pink @Memphis Club, Oct 19th, 10:30PM till late Dirty Sex: Master Of Darkness @BACKSTAGE, Oct 25th, 8PM Jahzad @Equinox, Oct 25th, 9PM PAN GU Concert @Meta House, Oct 25th, 9PM SWAGGER Party @Meta House, Oct 26th, 9PM DJ Chikashi (JAPAN) @ BACKSTAGE, Oct 28th, 9pm Wine&Cheese ft. DJ Honey to swing the room into a tasty hot pan! @ BACKSTAGE Oct 30th 9pm Oktoberfest meets Halloween @Hotel Cambodiana, Oct 31st, 6PM Halloween Party! @Memphis Pub, Oct 31st, 10:30PM till late

REGULARS >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Monday Happy Mondays @Showbox, 6PM Film Series @DOORS, 8PM Tuesday Salsa Night @The Groove, 8PM Swing Dancing @ DOORS, 7PM Wednesday Wine & Cheese @BACKSTAGE, 6PM till late Acoustic Session @DOORS, 8PM Lipstick @St-Tropez Phnom Penh, 9PM till late Thursday Queer Thursday @BACKSTAGE, 6PM till late High Heels @Raffles Hotel, 8PM X-PAT-SOUND system DJ party @Meta House, 8:30PM La Deca’DANCE @St-Tropez Phnom Penh, 9PM till late Vanity, Ladies Night @NOVA, 9PM till late Friday The Fish Market @La Coupole, Sofitel Phokeethra, 6PM Fridays Remixed - Happiness Hour @Sofitel Phokeethra Groove Sessions @DOORS, 9:30PM Saturday Raffles’s Personality Brunch @Raffles Hotel, 12PM Rhythm Sessions @DOORS, 9:30PM Sunset Sandpit Sessions @Le Jardin, 6PM Sunday Family Sunday @Raffles Hotel, 12PM BBQ and Live Music @Le Jardin, 5PM

US$ 55 - inclusive of a glass of Personality cocktail US$ 75 - inclusive of unlimited Signature wines and Personality cocktails US$ 85 - inclusive of unlimited Taittinger Brut Champagne, Signature wines and Personality cocktails Restaurant Le Royal Every Saturday from 12.00pm to 03.00pm www.raffles.com/phnompenh

Prices are subject to service charge and applicable government taxes. For reservations, please call 023 981 888 or email dining.leroyal@raffles.com

Drop Dead Disco / WUPP @Naga House, Kampot October 5th

! p l he

SOgSe]

[pa

7 / 4 2

s -hour es all ying o d World me satisf - BB o ong wa y a for s eah Moni v e k s a T ip r h 7 P c / , n 4 8 2 y um d 0 rs an king - No. 3 m e deli ver o burge c H a . n enh en s drunk 3) Phnom P (9 . afe d 0 v l B 00 dle C 12 911 - Noo needed s b er: 0 le d oo uch and n city and m ternet g sockets ime in the In 7 / t lu 24 e ,p eadin ternet h as in alore for d nom Penh h g P e , danccoffe .St.113 night few” A, B,C a 7 r .6 e o N - Aft g a “ cking a ynjo yin ty sna Darkness e ack. (And m at r a p n f m s o a a After C rt t Hea surely need Swiss Food ing a 51 r) . e ou’ll t y e S , b , s t 7 k drin t draf 125-12 5 cen - No. be a 7 Sorya Mall n Golde

t acciden UPP, Dear W a motorcycle helmet. ad ring a I just h ’ and ’t wea n s a w it ‘funny an b a and g n n feeli rain sc I’ve bee ke to get a b n. li ’t broke I would my brain isn o h ave t k to chec he best place go to t o t ’s e e Wher I h av o D ? ne one do k ? o k g Ban rd a h ic -R

! p l e h

! It’s h ard, ou idiot r Dear Ric ar a helmet, y y get ou we idea to e Alwa ys d n o o o d g ll we ly a definite cked though, tte e lm a C he se. brain c is a it of sen ing a b onivong Blvd.) d v a h r fo o M o , g 3 . a l (no with Hospita et. ospital h b t c s li e b b u p your ly b 0. reliable a 5 b $ is pro round rep, and ad scan costs tor there he e a doc results, An MRI ither se e the n a c You our hrough ill go t your scan to y k. w o h w c e e k h c ta can m to or you for the r o t c o d regular e, - WUPP ck ! Lov lu d o o G

Dear WUPP, I’m an avid record coll ector afte r 1960’s Cambodian vinyl. Where can I find these records ? - Laurence

Dear Laurenc e, Sticky Fing ers in Golden Sory a mall stocks all thin gs retro, including your beloved vinyl. Happy spinning! Love, - WUPP

Li Savfeer!

Fire st 666 ation or 11 8 A mb 119 ( from ulance 023 phon es) Polic e Ho 117 ( from tl 023 ine phon es)

Got a funny WUPP story, a question, a problem, or a dire emergency that for some reason can wait until the next issue comes out? Email eve@wuppmag.com and we’ll sort you right out!

Raffles Personalities... BRUNCH IS BACK ON SATURDAYS! Raffles’ Personality Brunch will give you the opportunity to experience a celebration of the many famous personalities who resided at Le Royal during visits to Cambodia. These celebrated figures left their mark forever in our history. Set in Phnom Penh’s grandest dining room, Restaurant Le Royal the only Personality Brunch that offers an eclectic array of Chef’s pass around, classic guerridon tableside service, a la carte options and the largest range of cheese’s in town. US$ 55 - inclusive of a glass of Personality cocktail US$ 75 - inclusive of unlimited Signature wines and Personality cocktails US$ 85 - inclusive of unlimited Taittinger Brut Champagne, Signature wines and Personality cocktails Restaurant Le Royal Every Saturday from 12.00pm to 03.00pm www.raffles.com/phnompenh

Prices are subject to service charge and applicable government taxes. For reservations, please call 023 981 888 or email dining.leroyal@raffles.com