What's Up Magazine #21 May issue by Pierre Rabotin

#21 05/14

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Photo of Cambodia 2099, courtesty Davy Chou Co-Founder & Managing Director Antony Hamon Editor In Chief Pierre Rabotin Editor Eve Watling Designers Tanya Cooper Monika Ang Design Assistant Meas Srey Nich Sales Manager Sarah Belli 0888 197 202 sarah@wuppmag.com Photographers Nick Sells Julien Quentin Meas Srey Nich Journalists Ismail Vora jee Anna Mischke Nathan Thompson Sok Hak Marina Shafik Jane Marnell Alexandra Pace Distribution Manager Ung Rithivan Special Thanks Thida Men Mathieu Bartozzi Kip Radt Rada Ith Cover Portrait of Meas Soksophea by Nick Sells at: So Shoot Me Studio ..... WHAT’S UP MAGAZINE contact@wuppmag.com facebook/wupp.magazine www.wuppmag.com 097 958 7338

Photo: Bradford Edwards

Dear Readers, Khmer New Year is over; but although we miss the holidays, we’re excited to start the new year with the spirit of discovery. This May issue is dedicated to exploration. We travelled upcountry to the nations goldmines, to find out about the miners delving underground in their bid to find buried treasure in its rawest form. Cambodian megastar Meas Soksophea tells us about adventuring into the wild in her bid to protect the nation’s forests. And if you fancy discovering a new country, we tell you why a mini break to Vientiane is well worth the trip. You don’t have to travel far to be an explorer. In this issue, we tried out the funkiest dance classes in Phnom Penh – if you are as uncoordinated as us, this will definitely push yourself over new frontiers. We also challenge you to look at your own street in a different light, with our new Street Explorer page. Elsewhere in our exploration of Cambodia, we have five reasons why the humble city of Battambang is a secret hotbed of cool. We also go to a journey into Cambodia’s forgotten past, looking at the disappearing art of sign painting. On top of this, 70-something grandmother Yay Chea tells us about her rural upbringing, and flirtation with royalty. This issue promises a little adventure for each of our readers – the question is: what will you explore this month? The What’s Up team

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Content Cover Interview meas soksophea

Photo Of The Month

New Discoveries

Discovery street explorer

Photostory cambodian goldmines

Tryouts dance classes

In Conversation chefs

Hypemaker

Cocktail & Food the duck: bistro indochine

Culture the lost art of sign painting

Art christie's comes to cambodia

Cinema Koh pich goes to cannes

Playlist the phatT controller

Cocktail let him go

5 Reasons why battambang is awesome

Life Story yay chea

Opinion my life as a backpaker dater

How Toâ&#x20AC;Ś make your own jewelry

Geek angkor comes to streetview

Beauty Get matte about it

Heath FEEL GOOD FOOD

Street Style

Next Stop viantiene

Reviews

Gurus

Agenda

SOS Page

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NÂş 21 - may 2014

cover

MEASsoksophea

The Queen of Teen  eve watling  NICK SELLS / So shoot me studio

licking her glossy bob and pouting for the camera, Meas Soksophea is every inch the teen idol popstar. Despite being in the midst of a heavy touring schedule that is taking her across the country performing for tens of thousands of fans at a time, she breezes into the shoot dead on time, bringing a bubbling, glowing energy to the proceedings.

How was your concert in Siem Reap last night? It was fun. There were over 40,000 people there: it was raining a bit so there would’ve been more! Also there was a murder near the concert just before I started playing and word spread fast, so everyone was a bit frightened. They still haven’t caught the murderer...

After bursting out of the Kampong Speu countryside and into the centre-front spotlight of the Cambodian pop scene, Soksophea has kept her hoards of young fans happy with increasingly slick, catchy pop that balances its Cambodian roots with an international standard production value. One of her latest hits, All Lies, combines Khmer lyrics with a killer hook, a flashy American-shot video and some Rihanna-like ‘ey ey’-ing in the chorus. If Cambodian music ever has an international breakout popstar, it’s hard to imagine who else it would be.

Who usually comes to see you? Mostly teenager girls, but my fans are all ages, up to middle aged women.

But behind the gloss and high drama of her videos, Soksophea remains a true country girl. A fierce eco-warrior, she’s outspoken against the destruction of Cambodian forests: her Facebook updates feature endangered Siem Reap rosewoods alongside glammed-up publicity shots. We caught up with the singer to find out how she is staying so down to earth during her meteoric rise to stardom.

Do you try and be a positive role model? Yes, I want to be a good role model. There are times where I dress sexily, but I want my fans to understand fashion as well as Khmer culture. What does Khmer culture mean to you? The Khmer personality is friendly and modest. Sometimes people judge me on how I dress, but I want them to understand that it doesn’t reflect how I act. What are you working on at the moment? I’m working on lots of music projects, and making sure everything is top quality. I want to join the international industry, although I’m not planning to sing songs in English. Music has no language: if it sounds good people will listen to it.

COVER

Cambodia is losing its forests: that needs to stop On a personal level, I have a goal to plant 20,000 trees. I’m looking for somewhere to plant them at the moment.

Back then, singers weren’t appreciated socially. My whole family were teachers and government workers so they complained to my parents: it was a struggle to break through that. They’re happy now though, and are proud of me – the whole village is!

I hear you and your husband support the Mother Nature campaign against the deforestation and dam-building in Phnom Aural and Areng Valley. Is this true? Yes. The monks on the project approached us and asked for help as we share their passion for nature. People working on the project have no support so we try and help them out. If we have free time we plant trees there. I also promote it by visiting the locations and taking pictures and sharing them on social media so more people know about it, and hopefully inspire more artists to speak out. I want the monks to know that I’m on their side.

Who influences you as an artist? I like 60s artists like Pan Ron. Of the artists from the 80s, Meng Keo Pich Chenda is my favourite. I listen to modern international music like Beyonce – there’s no modern Khmer music that really influences me.

I want to draw attention from around the world to tell people that Cambodia is losing its forests: that needs to stop. I want my friends to know about this and join the fight to push for the planning of tree plantations and stop the companies, and let them know that what they’re doing to the forest is wrong.

The lyricist wrote this song about living conditions for ordinary Khmers. He saw how the life of a woman working in a garment factory is really hard and badly paid, and then he wondered how some men – boyfriends and husbands - can cause even more trouble for her. This really touched me, so I made the video as realistic as possible.

How did you become a singer? In 2002 I started my career singing in restaurants and bars, and then I got a contract in 2004.

You have a song called Why Can’t the Couple in Love Live Together? – do you believe Cambodian tradition is too old fashioned in this way? It’s not too old fashioned. Many people get together, break up and then go back to their families asking for help. Sometimes it’s good to listen to your family’s advice. Young people in Cambodia don’t have that kind of money yet, so they need support from their families.

What was your life like before? I was born in Kampong Speu. My father had me really late, and he retired when I was still young. Our family’s economics broke down and we needed income. When I was in high school my family didn’t want me to work in music yet, so I skipped school to join music competitions! I came second in the whole country when I was just 14 or 15. Even after

that they still didn’t really want me singing, but my brother promised to look over me so my parents let me be – they knew they couldn’t stop me!

How do you push yourself creatively? When I’m making new songs I get inspiration by getting into the lyrics, and thinking of a way to express them through music. The video for Your Luck Against My Tears’is set in a garment factory. Can you tell me more about this?

Do you think it’s hard for a Cambodian artist to go international? In 2006 I went to America and met a

songwriter, and we keep in touch. He knows how the music industry in Cambodia is and he wants to improve it, so he keeps writing good music for me. I want to help the Cambodian industry move forward and bring it to an international level. The industry lost many artists during Khmer Rouge regime. We are behind compared to other countries, so I want to make original songs and new melodies. The people who work for me are sometimes really young – some are only 15 years old, but their passion is so strong that I let them write songs for me. I want to stop the copying of lyrics and promote originality. What do you do in your free time? Drink palm wine. Just kidding! I don’t have much free time but I like to see my family and go to the pagoda. I also like to exercise, or sing playfully to get new song ideas. What are your plans for the future? I want to start a school providing musical training – we don’t have that yet in Cambodia. If we did, people would realise music is a career, and young musicians would get support from their families. I want to give them inspiration and encouragement. Also, I want to own a zoo. When I visit the countryside, I listen to the sound of the birds and the water – its music from nature. There’s times when I want to leave the city and listen to it because it de-stresses me. I have a land 15km from Phnom Penh, and I hope to bring birds and cicadas there – it will be a singing zoo! }

Cambodia is behind compared to other countries, so I want to make original songs and new melodies

Ain thecareer fast lane 1997 - Discovered at a singing contest, where 24 provinces were represented. Meas finished second place. 2004 - Signed to a record company. 2005 - First solo album released. 2006 - Started a world tour around Europe, Australia, North America and Japan. 2008 - Released 1000 Nights, the biggest hit song of her career so far. 2011 - Meas Soksophea Heart Foundation started, and helped 150 families during the massive flood of 2011. It is helping the poor around Cambodia right to this day. 2011 - Wins first award for best female vocalist at the Anakchadara awards (AKA the Grammys of Cambodia). 2013 - VEVO-iTunes solo project means she becomes the only female Khmer artist to sell original music online, and to register with Youtube’s VEVO. 2014 - Is still on the road, performing 5 concerts per week. Plans to tour New Zealand for 2 weeks in July, and Paris for 2 weeks in September.

Follow Meas Soksophea on Facebook: i MeasSoksopheaOfficial

photo OF THE MONTH

BY kip radt This picture was taken on the roof of a house in the Kampong Cham province. A man was laying out freshly dyed strips of grass to dry in the sun, later to be weaved into mats.

DISCOVERIES

new discoveries

Arthur & Paul

Smil’in Cambodia

Our Latest Favourite Things

l’Irrésistible Coffee Trunkh.

The Action Cambodge Handicap (ACH), an organisation founded nearly two years ago, offers shelter and work opportunities for young Cambodians with mental disabilities. Its own brand, l’Irrésistible, produces homemade jams, syrups & biscuits. ACH has now opened a concept-shop, café, and tea lounge, located just 50 meters from Russian market. On the ground floor is a shop featuring l’Irrésistible’s all-natural products, where you will also be able to meet some of the remarkable young people involved in the organisation. Above the shop is a cozy lounge space, selling smoothies, waffles and crepes. An innovative menu features the l’Irrésistible products, but also includes scrumptious pancakes and fresh pastries.

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Phnom Penh’s favourite quirky homeware store has arrived in Siem Reap! The store stocks their classic range of exclusive easy pack homewares, tshirts, boxers, shirts and sarongs, soft furnishings, as well as quirky collectables, vintage signs and custom furniture – also check out the limited edition Siem Reap items and seasonal specials. With a strong local flavour, they work with Siem Reap producers and suppliers where possible. Does your house (or wardrobe) need a touch of joy? Check out Trunkh.

 Reap – trunkh.com

No.642-644, Hap Guan Street, Siem

Elephant in the Kitchen

After the success of his photobook Sleep’in Cambodia, featuring snoozing citizens of Phnom Penh, French photographer Greg Mo is back with a second volume of photos from the streets of the city. Smil’in Cambodia (unsurprisingly) features the smiles he has come across in the Kingdom. From megawatt beams to mysterious smirks, the portraits give a reason why Cambodia was recently voted the friendliest country in the world by Rough Guide readers. “Although people here are so kind and welcoming, it was hard to get people to smile at the camera. Cambodians don’t often smile in pictures, they pull a serious face. So I try to speak Khmer to them – it makes them laugh!”, says the photographer on his unorthodox method of smile-provoking. Small, colourful and prettily designed, the book makes a sweet coffee table book or a gift for anyone wanting to take the Cambodian smile with them wherever they go.

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No. 174, St. 454, near Russian market, Phnom Penh

This stylish gay hotel, decorated in minimalist slate tones, is strictly male-only, meaning you can strut your stuff in the nude without scaring any delicate ladyfolk. The hotel has a steam room, giant Jacuzzi and a swimming pool with 100% chlorine-free & chemical-free purified water – owners swear it’s like ‘swimming in silk’. Ladies: if you’ve never had penis envy, you might do now.

Spa day passes $10

27, St. 71, Phnom Penh  No. i Arthurandpaul

Japan Home Centre Cambodia

$19 from Monument Books, Display, Trunkh, Carnet d’Asie, D’s Books, and in some selected Siem Reap shops - gregmophoto.com

Bäckerei Craving good bread in Siem Reap? The new German-Asian fusion Bäckerei (which is German for bakery, language fans) pops out batches of fresh original bread rolls, bretzels, sourdough breads, German sausages, and homemade mustards daily - and no healthhazardous, artificial ingredients, additives, or preservatives are included. There’s no walk-in shop, but the delivery service means you can get fresh or frozen loaves dropped off right on your doorstop. Genießen Sie Ihre Mahlzeit!

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Siem Reap - SiemReapBackerei.com

Independence Hotel On the 7th floor of the gorgeous Patio Urban Resort, diners at Elephant in the Kitchen can enjoy their meal overlooking an infinity pool leading into an infinite spread of city vista. Their cocktails and tapas are prepared by a chef trained at the legendary Friends NGO Restaurant, and meal options include Western and European flavours. Happy hour is from 5-7pm, making it great for some fancy afterwork snacking and boozing with friends.

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No. 341, St. 51, Phnom Penh www.patio-hotel.com

The mammoth historical hotel added 50 new villas in April, cementing its place as Sihanoukville’s biggest luxury hotel. With a giant pool, spa, restaurant and a Jacqueline Kennedy suite for all aspiring First Ladies-to-be, it was partially designed by Norodom Sihanouk, and has been the hotspot for all the luxury lovers who have graced the nearby beaches since the 1960s.

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Street 2 Thnou, Sangkat 3, Sihanoukville - independencehotel.net

Bargain hunters of Phnom Penh will adore this homeware store, which sells pretty and supercheap household necessities possessing an elegant and minimalist Japanese flair. Jars, tea sets and sheets are all on the checklist, making this a perfect one-stop port of call for any new residents of Phnom Penh.

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No. 48a, St. 294, BKK1, Phnom Penh i japanhomecentrecambodia

street city

street explorer: St. 75 phnom penh Secret nooks, special atmospheres and forgotten histories; each month we explore a different street in Cambodia to discover the stories that shaped it. This month, Nathan Thompson visits Phnom Penh’s ghostly street 75.  nathan thompson BRITISH EMBASSY I parked my moto by the gates and guards of the British embassy on Street 75. On the gate was the royal coat of arms. It was a weirdly comforting site for an Englishman in the furnace of Phnom Penh.

THE witch TREE Alex, a Cambodian who was translating for me, grew up around here. He pointed to a large tree behind the red and white dashed embassy gates. Apparently the tree entombed the ghost of a woman who died during childbirth. Her presence had caused the trunk to bulge into the shape of a nursing woman; her hair was the tumbling foliage.

It was called the witch tree and had been there for as long as anyone can remember. Its yearly blossom had once fallen on a banana plantation, and the family home of a local man who lived there.

VILLAGE 8 Today, the witch tree’s blossom falls on Village 8 – a Cambodian community living in a building adjacent to the British embassy. It was built in the progressive style of the 1960s and, back when its walls were still white, it was a school for French children. During the Khmer Rouge the rooms were used to store black stacks of ammunition

and guns; or they were used as torture rooms as the regime’s paranoia grew cancerous and started to consume itself. Once the Khmer Rouge were driven from the war-blasted streets of the capital the new administration needed civil servants to help rebuild. Public buildings, like the old school, became residencies which were given to workers to attract them back to the capital. The school was renamed “Village 8”.

UNICEF There was once a French graveyard where the UNICEF building is now located. Alex said that French officials arrived at some point to remove bones - these sticks of calcium that once held muscle and skin animated by Gallic will. They were taken to France to dissipate into the soil that made them.

Roun Sokha Roun Sokha bought a room from one of the original civil servant owners in 1983 for $18 worth of gold. Inside her small, homely residence she pointed to faded photos of stately Indian men. Her husband was Indian, she explained, a part of a community of Indian professionals who were chased out by the Khmer Rouge. Visual echoes of the ancient Indian-Khmer connection can be seen in the faces of their children.

PRAK Sokha Prak Soukha moved to a 5x9 room in the building when he became a government driver in 1979. His original home had been reassigned by the Khmer Rouge to a new family and he had no desire to return there, as it only reminded him of the family he lost. His wife had

roun & prak disappeared and three of his four children had died from dengue fever. Today he shares his room with his son and his lady friend who emerged from a home-made partition containing a bed with an intricately patterned blanket.

Both Prak Soukha and Roun Sokha have affection for Village 8 and count themselves lucky to have lived there throughout the difficult decades of transition. Cambodia was a dangerous place during the 1980s and 1990s but

the Village 8 residents felt safe in their governmentsanctioned building near the best hotels and hospitals. They had electricity and jobs while the rest of the country struggled. They welcomed the British embassy because the extra security made their building one of the safest in the city.

photostory INTERVIEW

intodeep exploring cambodia's gold mines

 pierre rabotin  julien quentin

wo hours away from Sen Monorom, Mondilkiri’s capital, lays a quiet sloping village with the look of an old Spaghetti Western set. Only accessible after driving on a wounded and tortuous dirt road, this strange town covered with grey dust seems to exist out of time, like a live version of a black and white picture. Its remoteness makes basic needs difficult to fulfill, and during rainy season the town is almost impossible to access, or leave. Only a few expert drivers can to get to it, charging you $25 and loading their motodop with goods before making what seems impossible to the regular Phnom Penh driver. Only one man is allowed to resupply the village, a nice and profitable monopoly for the guy

in charge. In this little town one kW of electricity costs 4500 riels, four to five times the price of Phnom Penh. But there is a reason people put up with the difficulties. The area holds some of Cambodia’s famous goldmines where every day men and women risk their lives hoping to find even few grams of the precious stone. After more than twenty years of exploitation, landscape has been completely destroyed. All that’s left is something resembling a war field, covered in filth and drilled by deep, dark holes, in which miners sink way underground to bring back the gold in which the owners of the lands invested so much for.

“How did you get that land?” “It was given to me after Pol Pot’s regime.” “Are you from the army?” “I used to be, but I’m not anymore.” A conversation with the Cambodian owner of a mine.

Workers are on the job seven days a week. They make $150 a month working from 7am to 6pm, but can make an extra $100 if they work until 10pm. Needless to say, most of them do. A pyrotechnician who places dynamite down the holes to blow up the heavy rock earns $500 a month. Two of them are necessary for the task. Blasting from one house on top of the artificial hill, the song Pokponna He (“How Big is your Pussy?” in Shakespeare words) echo in the crevices that hold the villages. Along with the beat of the song stomps the mechanical percussion of the diesel engine of the machine extracting water from one of the deepest holes, dug by a Chinese company few years ago. Using better equipment, they manage to dig up to 200 meters underground, when Cambodian holes barely pass the 30 meter mark.

Accidents don’t happen often but when they do, it’s always really bad

Blue plastic sheeting that was once used as a roof now hang from skeletal, deserted houses. A few children jump above the filthy waters that cover from one side of the land to another, while in the background illegal loggers pass by with huge chunks of precious wood loaded on their small motorbikes.

A homemade process: after extracting the rocks containing gold from the hole they blew up, miners crush them before mixing the resulting sand with water. They then run this muddy water through ‘Welcome’ doormats in order to filter for the heaviest parts.

“Mines were discovered by the Bunongs [an ethnic minority living in the north of the country] in 1998”, explain Sok Heng, the owner of a small piece of land, “At the time, a canal was running through the place and you just had to plunge your hands in the water to pick up gold. Khmer people started exploiting the mines two years after. Now all of the minorities have left.” The day we went to the mines was officially a day off, but miners decided to come back to try to get gold from a stock of rocks that were declared useless. This day, what they find they’ll keep for themselves. }

try out

getintothegroove we try out Phnom Penh's funkiest dance classes

 eve watling From gliding about on a polished ballroom floor to painting yourself blue and interpreting the cosmic flow of the universe, dancing is a beautiful, noble art. Sadly, I need about 16 beers and the comfortingly anonymous darkness of Pontoon to really unleash my inner Beyonce. So how did a gangly-limbed, borderline dyspraxic, awkward Englishwoman fare in some of Phnom Penh’s funkiest dance classes? Spoiler: it wasn’t pretty...

Traditional Khmer Dancing at Selapak Sen Pich started learning traditional dance as a 9 year old refugee in a Thai border camp in 1993. Just over twenty years later, she now passes on her knowledge at Selapak, a centre teaching the traditional arts of Khmer dance and martial arts. Pich teaches three kinds of dance: social dance (simple, repetitive dances to be danced at weddings and other celebrations), folk dance (more elaborate, structured dances portraying cultural traditions) and classical dance, which is highly stylised, and traditionally performed at the Royal court. After stretching, Pich starts going through the steps of the classical ‘Robam Jun Por’, or ‘Wishing Dance’. Performers hold a bowl full of jasmine flowers, sprinkling them on the audience to give them good luck. The movements are slow, which is good for dance simpletons like myself. The routine begins with carrying the bowl eight steps forward, with knees bent, butt sticking out and toes curled foot-crampingly

backwards into the curly-limbed shapes that Khmer dancing is famed for. It feels elegant and calming; the part of the dance on the knees even has echoes of the Buddhist mindful prostration prayer, but with added sassy slow-motion finger wagging. We move onto a more rowdy social dance for the second part of the lesson. This dance is faster and more playful – 4 steps backwards, 4 steps forward while flapping your arms backwards and forwards like giant bird. I test out the ‘sociability’ of this dance later on that night on street 51 and can confirm it goes down a treat.

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At Selapak, #117, Street 110, Phnom Penh selapak-cambodia.com - $6/hour

Salsa Phnom Penh at the Groove Salsa Phnom Penh is run by Russian couple Artemiy and Olga, who hold regular classes teaching the popular social dance, which originated in New York in the 1970’s. The room is divided up with men on one side and women on the other, and we all start a booty-rolling, chest trusting warm up, much to the apparent delight of the elderly gentlemen clutching drinks in the dark corners of the bar. Olga goes through the steps at the front of the class, and we follow as a group as the 1-2-3-4 count increases its rapidity. “Move like a cat that’s pressing its paws into the ground”, Olga tells me, as I stumble about, resembling a newborn buffalo more than anything from the feline family. Next, the two genders pair up to try out their new moves. We join hands and much awkward shuffling ensues: I end up being dragged around the dancefloor like a sack of cement while profusely apologising to my partners. Latin music kicks in, and Artemiy and Olga take to the floor to do some super sexy salsa-ing to kick off the afterparty, in which pupils can mingle and practice what they’ve just learned. Most other beginners are already proficiently stepping away to the beat, but I decide not to inflict my clumsiness onto the company any longer, and shimmy quickly out the door.

 St. 282, Phnom Penh

 Meas Srey Nich

Riverside Dance Workout Call it what you will: Asian aerobics, granny gymnastics, tracksuit discos – you’ve seen the groups of oldies crammed into any open space they can find in the city, jiving along to a beatbox. If you’re anything like me, you’ve also secretly wanted to join it. I’m excited to find out if its anything near as exciting as it looks. The electropop music was already booming when I arrived at riverside. Motos had pulled up to watch the evening show of 50 or so people – mostly older women – bedecked in tracksuits, going through their daily dance aerobics routine, led by a man in a tanktop shaking his butt to the music. I join the line next to some grannies in white visors, whose furrowed brows showed they were clearly taking their workout very seriously. A good head, shoulders, and midriff taller than everyone else, I stuck out like a gangly sore thumb. As some tourists stopped to snap a picture, I mentally willed the sun to set faster and throw the humiliating scene into darkness.

At the Groove, on top of Terrazza, No. 1C, salsa-phnompenh.com - $5/hour

Once the excruciating embarrassment had worn off (about ten minutes), boredom almost immediately set in. The workout is hardly thorough; it mainly involves side stepping and loosely shaking your arms about. It’s the height of hot season, and I’m barely breaking a sweat – I make it twenty minutes into the workout before wondering off to the pub.

 riverside, Phnom Penh - $1

Opposite Blue Pumpkin on the

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 David Lim

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At Phnom Penh International Institute of the Arts, No 134A, St 51, Phnom Penh Classes- $10 per hour - ppiia.org

The most relaxing Spa in Cambodia

Her class begins with a warm up, standing around in a circle and pretending an invisible ball is rolling around our bodies. We then imagine we’re pieces of seaweed wafting around in the sea, and trees blowing in the breeze. The rest of the class is centred on exploring how our bodies move in the space around us, sometimes by ourselves, sometimes interacting with others. On paper, it’s the kind of thing I

would usually cringe my way through, but Celine’s warm openness means the class is playful, unpretentious and without judgement. Not having to memorise steps and movements also means it’s less stressful than stricter dances. However, Celine’s serious dance training means that she doesn’t see improv as a fuzzy love-in, but as a way to truly push and challenge yourself. “Improv is always about process rather than achieving a goal. We try to never repeat a movement or to form habits. We’re learning to be relaxed yet aware – to be in the moment. Once we become aware we learn to be able to make clear, precise choices.” I left the class feeling like I had worked out my brain, as well as my body. }

“Contact improvisation is having a curiosity of explore the unknown. We don’t teach specific steps, but knowledge of our own bodies” explains our teacher, Celine Bacque. “You can have fun with it – its free expression and discovery, listening to our partners and sharing energy, and using each other as a support for our own learning.” Having started dancing aged 3; Celine graduated with a PhD in contemporary dance from some of the most prodigious conservatoires of Paris and New York, and is now based in South East Asia.

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society

Here you have to fight against the idea that Cambodia

: N O I T A S R E V CON IN Cambodian Culinary Scene  pierre rabotin  nick sells @ so shoot me studio The Cambodian culinary scene is boiling. Every week new restaurants are opening, each one of them featuring new flavours, identities and experiences. In only a few years, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have become foodie cities, putting the spotlight on Cambodian fare as well as showcasing international influences. We got together five talented chefs leading the way in this whole new culinary context. Although cooking in Cambodia has never been so exciting, numerous challenges remain. How to bring the best quality when customers expect the food they eat to be cheap, just because it’s Cambodia? How to get the best products while sustaining a business? Find out in the latest fascinating episode of ‘In Conversation’.

How is the culinary scene in Cambodia? Gisela Salazar Golding: It’s growing for sure, with more expats coming and also locally with more interest in different types of food. We’re no longer in a market where it’s all about French or Cambodian cuisine. Cristia Nou Picart: We have so many different influences here now. For example, before we didn’t have that many Spanish people migrating around the world. I think one of the reasons is that now with the crisis in Europe and especially in Spain; lots of them are leaving the country, including the chefs. So they arrive here with their culture and ask themselves what can be done. One day you will have many chefs from Greece or Mexico, bringing their own traditional food and opening up the local scene even more.

Timothy Bruyns: These chefs from abroad come with their own experience and philosophy on food. They are influenced by Cambodian cuisine as much as they influence Cambodian chefs like the Kimsan twins. As chefs, we can create something that’s really like us, while still maintaining some integrity. What has changed? Kimsan Sok: Cuisine has evolved; we are mixing different influences, adapting the traditional recipes. Timothy: Around the world, people are getting more exposure to Cambodian food and are curious about it. They are coming to the realization that Cambodian food is not the same thing as Thai or Vietnamese.

equals cheap

How do you integrate these influences in your cuisine? Kimsan Pol: When it comes to Cambodian cuisine, most of our customers are not used to it. They don’t even have a name in their own language for the herbs and vegetables we cook, and those flavours are strange to them. For example, I tried to serve prahok [fermented fish] which has a very strong flavor and usually customers will just try it and not really eat it. So what I did it is that I paired it with scallops, a taste they’re used to, and that balances the prahok. That’s how I will make them come to Cambodian flavours. That’s my passion, I want to create new experiences to highlight Cambodian flavours. The idea is to do something different from others. Kimsan Sok: When some Cambodian people try our fusion food, they find it strange. It’s not the traditional way they know. Some people don’t want to change their flavours.

is the Spanish head chef at Doors Phnom Penh, a hub of cutting edge music and world class food (and serves what is probably the best tapas in Cambodia!)

Gisela Salazar Golding is renowned for her fusion of Asian and South American flavours. The Venezuelan chef is in charge of Chinese House’s kitchen, a beautiful Phnom Penh restaurant located in an old French colonial building

Timothy Bruyns is a South African chef and the owner of the Common Tiger, where the local product is the star. The chef worked in many countries around the globe, making dishes that break the limits of cuisine, and adding all of his influences to his plates to create an unforgettable experience.

Cristia: It’s a matter of education; it takes time for the tastes to evolve. How do you foreign chefs adapt your cuisine? Cristia: In my case, I cook very traditional Spanish dishes, but when I go to the market I’ll be introduced to Cambodian products I don’t know, fish for example. I cook the Spanish way but I do it with local products. Gisela: I come from Venezuela and we have the same weather as here, so we have a lot of fruits and vegetables in common. The flavours are the same but I will play with them in a different way. In my dishes I will add some very local tones

The Kimsan twins As executive chefs for Angkor W Group, the two famous Cambodian chefs both control the operations of 11 restaurants,1 bar and 3 food services. A real success story.

society to adapt those recipes to people’s taste. But in the end it’s really about the interpretation of the food. Timothy: It’s really exciting to work with new flavours: it’s different and challenging. I try not to be bound to any specific cuisine even in term of techniques and methods. The only important thing is to focus on the product in order to showcase and promote it. What is the challenge in being a chef in Cambodia? Timothy: What constitutes a dining experience? Is it just being full and happy and paying a little bit of money, or experiencing something that you haven’t before? Here you have to fight against the idea that “Cambodia equals cheap and having a backpack and a massive bowl of something filling for little money”. Have a look at Trip Advisor, most of the time the main comment is “too expensive for Cambodia”. Gisela: This is the main prejudice against the business here in Cambodia. Fighting these ideas is our main challenge. Customers have some expectations in term of products that are not made here which makes our cost really high. At the same time they want it to be cheap. Even in Paris my food cost was cheaper than here. Cristia: For example in Spanish cuisine you use Iberico ham or chorizo which cost a lot to import. Kimsan Pol: Even if our restaurant is nicer with a professional service, some customers will always complain. For us priority goes to quality, not making people sick. This has a cost. This issue of the price of a dish seems like a hot topic... Timothy: Even at the local market, I pay $14 for 1kg of prawns, once you’ve cleaned them you have 700g left. If I put four prawns on the plate, it already costs me $3-4. Plus in the past, people were opening

restaurants in their house which means no rent, they weren’t using AC and the staff was the family. Kimsan Sok: It’s true. At our restaurants for example we pay high salaries, insurance, school fees. The place is air conditioned so this is also included in the price you pay. But some competitors will copy our menu, serve it cheaper with a low quality service and people will complain to us. Kimsan Sok: For us in terms of food cost it’s a bit easier though, as we cook Asian food and can find everything in the local market. The average price for a main course is between $6 and $12. Timothy: That’s the thing! In a tourist town like Siem Reap where people spend money as they’re on holidays it’s pretty affordable. In Phnom Penh, the market is driven by people living here. Gisela: It’s important to understand that the menu I serve at Chinese House would cost three times the price in Paris or London.

Is being a chef considered as an interesting career by the younger generations? Kimsan Pol: It’s becoming popular among young people. Kimsan Sok: They also understood the opportunity in terms of position and salary. It’s easier to get a job as a chef than as staff. Gisela: If you have the curiosity, there is so much freedom and opportunities to discover new flavours and new techniques. It also raises the question of transmission… Cristia: As a chef you really need to take care of your staff and train them. You have to be passionate about the food but also about the people… Timothy: ...and make people understand that being a chef depends on hard work. It can be a tough work environment with long hours and high stress. The only way to sustain a career is to be passionate about the food, about the products. }

hypemaker events

HYPEMAKER What we’re excited about this may

Contemporary Dance Platform Three of Amrita’s emerging choreographers will create a new piece of work and share it with the public during the second Contemporary Dance Platform. 100% Cambodian produced, without any international creative or cash input, the classically trained Amrita dancers aim to tell their stories, and have their voices heard through dance. During the hour long showcase, choreographers Noun Sovitou and Khen Vanthy will experimentally blend live music and dance. There will also be dancers from Tiny Toones, Sovanna Phum and the Secondary School of Fine Arts joining Amrita artists on stage. The third piece of the night is the debut of a brother duo act Khon Chansina and Khon Chan Sithyka.

Tini Tinou Cambodian Circus Cambodia To celebrate Europe day on May 9th, the Delegation of the European Union are bringing the famous Siem Reap-based circus Phare to Phnom Penh for two nights only! Joining up with the National Circus School of Phnom Penh, the two circus groups will perform as a double bill both nights, with all profits going to the circus school.

 I 36

7th and 8th May , 6pm- The Big Top, National Circus School of Phnom Penh, in front of the National Parliament, Phnom Penh Tickets: $4 from the NCSPP tinitinoucircusfestival.org

 I

Friday 9th May, 7pm - Dept of Performing Arts, Phnom Penh. Tickets: $2.50 available to buy in advance at Java Cafe

May Holidays in Cambodia May is the month of holidays – great, because we’re too hot and lazy to work. Here’s when you should plan your exoduses to the beach:

May 01 International Labor Day May 13 Visak Bochea Day May 13, 14, 15 King's Birthday, Norodom Sihamoni May 17 Royal Plowing Ceremony

A Midsummer Night’s Dream

W.I.L.D. 2

After the success of their awesome party extravaganza in February, the Wake Induced Lucid Dreaming crew are back with its much anticipated sequel. Two floors of music mean that dancers can groove to Deep House or skank away to reggae and hip hop as their mood and tastes take them – they just need to watch out for the gangs of Tiny Toones and Rombak dancers breaking out into dance battles throughout the night. French artist Punkadelic will be amazing the crowds with his live UVreactive paintings, while Paul Airbrushing could be using you as a canvas as he does his rounds as a bodypainter. The location is top secret at the time of print, but organisers recommend you bring a towel, swimsuit, sunglasses, cash, flip-flops, and a change of clothes, while they provide lockers so you can store your bags, toilets, showers, food, drinks, shelters, and “all other elements to make magic happen”. We can’t wait to find out where it could be!

Saturday, May 3rd 2014, 4pm to the next morning. Secret location, but shuttles depart day and night from The Riverside Hotel (the W.I.L.D. 1 location) from 3.30PM. Tickets: $10 inluding transportation

Although May in Cambodia means torrential rain rather than frolicking lambs and warm breezes, we can still get into a summery spirit with The Phnom Penh Players’ rendition of the Shakespeare classic A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The much-loved comedy play follows the devious manipulations of wedding-goers by the fairies who inhabit the forest in which most of the play is set.

May 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, 7pm - Gaso-

Bar and Restaurant, Phnom Penh  lina Tickets: $10, available at Java Cafe, I Gasolina and The Flicks 1.

The History of Things to Come Looks like you Phnom Penhers can’t get enough of your imported vintage goodies! The History of Things to Come Vintage Sale is back, presided over by Renaissance woman Amanda Bloom and promising “classic cuts, beautiful fabrics, [in] superior condition. Time tested glamour for all shapes and sizes”.



8th -11th May, 8am to 8pm every day private house #21, street 306 next to Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Phnom Penh

cocktail & food

“MATCH OF THE MONTH”

Discover our monthly feature on how to pair cocktails and food. Two cocktails and two recipes by one chef from an exciting restaurant to make sure you become the best host in the city. This month, enjoy two recipes from the duck bistro indochine in phnom penh.

Five Spice Pork Belly with Smoked Eggplant & Red Nam Jim PREPARATION Pork Belly [ 1kg pork belly ] Cover pork belly with salt & five spice. Allow to sit overnight. Slow cook pork belly for 3 hours in stock at 180C for 30 mins, or until skin is crisp, then cover with foil. Turn down heat 150C for 2 1/2 hours.

 Meas Srey Nich

Lychee martini Absolut vodka, Martini Rosso, lychee juice, lime juice, lychees, egg white

WHY THEY MATCH PERFECTLY It’s an excellent match, as the egg white adds body and richness in the martini, allowing it to hold up to the very powerful texture of the pork belly. The lime juice and acid in the martini helps cut through the fat of the pork. The smoky eggplant also adds an interesting after-note which is complimented by the dry vermouth. The spicy nam jim dressing is mellowed by the sweet lychee juice and fruit.

Red Nam Jim Dressing [ 2 cloves garlic ● 3 coriander roots, scraped and washed ● 8 long red chili, seeded and chopped ● 50g shaved palm sugar ● 250ml lime juice ● 60ml fish sauce ] Place the garlic, coriander roots and long red chilies into a mortar and pestle and pound into a fine paste, next add the palm sugar and mix well, followed by the lime juice and fish sauce. Smoked Eggplant [ 500g Japanese eggplant smoked, peeled & cut ● 30ml fish sauce ● 45ml lime juice ● 1 bunch coriander ● 4 chilies, chopped ] Blend into a rough paste.

To Serve: Cut pork belly into blocks or thin slices, grill in pan until skin is crisp. Smear eggplant mix on plate, place pork belly on top. Drizzle with Red Nam Jim Dressing

PREPARATION Crème Brulee [ 9 eggs yolks ● 2 whole eggs ● 125 sugar 900 ml cream or combo of milk & cream (cheaper) ● Vanilla bean ● Juice of 1 large ginger ] Whisk until smooth, then cook over a water bath until you can leave a trail with a spoon on the side of the bowl. Pour mixture into ramekin containers. Cook in a water bath in 150 degree oven for approx. 30 minutes. Spiced pineapple [ 1/2 pineapple diced ● 2 vanilla beans ● 8 star anise ● 50g butter ● 50g brown sugar ● Dark rum ] Simmer mixture over low heat until dissolved and lightly caramelised. Dice pineapple and mix in.  Meas Srey Nich

The Place

Ginger colada Captain Morgan rum, Bacardi, coconut cream, pineapple juice, fresh ginger, caramelised pineapple, cinnamon

WHY THEY MATCH PERFECTLY Why they match perfectly Here the similarities help to reinforce the flavours of both dessert and cocktail. The rich creaminess of the brulee is well matched by coconut cream of the colada, while at the same time the lime juice in the cocktail helps cut the egg yolks in the brulee. The ginger in both brulee and colada helps to prolong the flavours of both. The caramelised sugar is also enhanced by the alcoholic richness of the rum and Bacardi.

The Duck is celebrating its first birthday with its makeover into The Duck: Bistro Indochine. While it keeps its quality bistro style and expert flavouring, it now focuses on value, with plates ranging from $4-13.

 the-duck.net Tel: 089 823 704 49

49 Sothearos Boulevard, Phnom Penh

 Meas Srey Nich

cocktail & Food

Ginger Crème Brulee with Spiced Pineapple

culture

sig n sign ppaintin aint ingg

The Dying Art of

 sok hack  bradford edwards

nyone who has lived or travelled in Cambodia may have noticed the hand-painted signs that appear throughout the country, from the cities to small provincial villages. Whilst not uncommon in Asia, they are quintessentially Cambodian, as they reflect the daily lives of the Khmer people. They range from beautiful, almost photo-realistic portraits, to the bizarre and conceptual, displaying a diverse array of talent and artistic sensibilities, all framed within a very functional piece of advertising. However, according to Dara Rith, a sign maker from Battambang, nowadays only 5% of all signs are hand painted. The dying art tells the story of “modernization”, the sacrifice of durability and beauty, to that of disposability. In 1918, when Cambodia was under French colonial rule, the Royal University of Fine Arts opened in Phnom Penh. Traditional painting was taught, and some people went on to become pagoda painters. In the 50’s cinema came to Cambodia, and was hugely popular. The pagoda painters began to moonlight as sign painters, painting cinema billboards.

It was from this the demand for hand painted signs developed, and sign painting shops began opening. Many of the sign painters had gone through the arts university, but they also began to train apprentices to help them with the increasing demand. This was interrupted by the war, and the turbulent years that followed. After the war, the cinemas once again opened their doors, and the sign makers that survived resumed their work, taking on new apprentices. The work was threefold: cinema billboards, portraits of royalty or politicians for festivals or rallies, and hand painted signs. Sometime in the 80’s the spray can, and the spray gun, came to Cambodia. “In 6 months, 40% of the industry died”, said Ment Leang, who worked as a sign painter in the 80’s, “it was cheaper and faster to use the spray cans, and even most of the sign painters preferred this, as it was a lot less work. There was no need to worry about brushes and paint, which was sometimes not easy to get hold of”.

The popularity of the cinemas was affected, and they could no longer afford to pay for hand painted billboards. By now, printers that could print PVC banners were available in Cambodia, and these were preferred as they were cheaper and faster. “This nearly killed of the sign painting industry altogether”, says Dara Rith. He still has a small shop on Street 2 in Battambang that was once his father’s. “Once, nearly this whole street was full of sign painters. Now it’s just me.” The ability to design work on a computer and print on stickers now makes it very cheap and fast to produce signs. “Nowadays people want something modern and cheap. They don’t really mind if it doesn’t last long, as they can always replace them. I still get asked for the spray painted signs, but if someone wants a hand painted sign I will ask my father to do it, but it takes him a very long time”.

Nowadays people want something modern and cheap. They don’t really mind if it doesn’t last long “I collect Khmer advertising signs because they are pure ‘accidental art’. The older ones were made by naive sign painters who simply reflected the surrounding society and what it consumed - in vivid colours and wonderful quirky personalised portraits. Perfect conceptual kitsch”. }

American artist and Phnom Penh resident Joe Klondike collects hand painted signs when he can, and succinctly sums up the lost art’s appeal.

Cinema billboards were still popular in the 90’s, many of which were still hand painted, but it wouldn’t be long before the television became more ubiquitous.

INTERVIEW art

Christie’s

Comes to Cambodia Artworks go under the hammer in Phnom Penh

 eve watling  courtesy of christie's

n March, ReCreation Art Agency Phnom Penh hosted its second Christie’s Auction, in which local and international artists donated an artwork to be auctioned off at Raffles Royal Hotel. Presided over by the famed Christie’s auctioneer Lionel Gosset, the auction raised an impressive total of $26,000. Two thirds of money went to the Cambodia 2000, a charity that provides art supplies to artists. “Improper use of materials is a big problem in Cambodia”, says Matthew Tito Cuenca, an artist and the director of media and public affairs for the auction. “The country is a dumping ground for toxic paints that they can’t sell anywhere else. Many artist don’t even realise the stuff they are working with is so dangerous. A lot of lacquer used here has benzene in, which kills brain cells as soon as it’s inhaled.” Aside from health issues, bad materials affect the longevity of artworks produced. Cracked ceramics and

faded paints are common problems for the Kingdom’s artists. This auction looks like it’s to be the latest in a line of many. “Christie’s is really big in South East Asia right now,” says Cuenca “They made $2 billion in the region during last year alone. People are investing in art as it doesn’t depreciate in cost.” But is the Cambodian art scene ready to be included in such a monolithic industry? “My concern in Cambodia is that the talented artists don’t have a voice yet. At the submission process, we ask to see every artist’s body of work to check that it's part of a cohesive artistic journey rather than a one off random piece, so people feel sure that they’re investing in a solid artistic talent”. We caught up with three artists who donated some of the most interesting and innovative works to the auction to discuss their pieces.

Nick Sells – ‘Building Blocks’ Tell me about your piece. Recently, I’ve been able to get some unique photographs of places around Phnom Penh, so I made a building blocks piece out of these images. The building blocks fit together and can be dismantled. It’s like Phnom Penh itself: changing fast. What do you think of this rapid development? I didn’t really have any opinion in mind. It was just intended as a fun piece, and to illustrate what’s going on. Ultimately, I want people to make their own picture of the city.

Theo Vallier – ‘International’ How did you make International? First, I got a sheet of scrap iron. I painted the first layer of my design using white paint and let it outside, adding water to it till it’s really rusty. I repeat this process about 3 or 4 times, building up layers of rust, and then when it’s done I varnish it. The darkest parts in the picture are the parts where it’s just rusted iron with now paint, and the lightest parts are with the most layers of white paint.

How long does a rust painting take to make? It depends on the season – the iron rusts faster in rainy season. What was the inspiration behind International? I come from a graffiti background. I used to tag rusty fences and saw how rust would overwhelm the paint, so I decided to try and recreate this in the studio. I paint urban landscapes on scrap metal from construction sites, so I’m still staying with the ‘street’. I’ve just brought a welding machine, so next I plan to make different shaped rust paintings. I don’t see them as two dimensional canvases, but as objects. valliertheo.com

Matthew Tito Cuenca – ‘Kampot Apsara’ Tell me about your piece... I’m a figurative artist who usually does conceptual neorealism: classical pieces with a strong concept. I like to mix unconventional and conventional materials. There’s always an inside joke in all of my pieces: one exhibition I did featured fluffy toys made out of razor blades. What inspired you to use Kampot pepper? It’s indigenous. That’s the strength of Cambodian art: taking advantage of their indigenous

materials, like seeds and tree bark. Cambodian artists like Phe Sophorn really inspire me. He is always doing exciting and different things, like his sculpture made out of ribs. What about Cambodia do you find so inspiring? At the moment, it’s going through a level of political change which could mean a great growth in creativity, and an upheaval of traditionally accepted norms matthewcuenca.com

How to you see it displayed? It could be a centrepiece, but I could see lots of potential for different ways to move it around. Each side has a photo, so there are lots of different pictures you can build with it. Do you have much experience with 3D work? No! It was my first piece. It was a big learning curve – we made this special glue out of flour and wood glue to stop the inks running. We did the lacquering ourselves too. It was a bit of a mathematical nightmare to get the photos to line up! nicksellsphotography.com

cinema Where did the idea for the film come from? I came to Cambodia last year. I was feeling frustrated about not shooting since 2010: I was just writing – it’s the biggest part of a filmmaker’s life. I knew I wanted to do a feature on Koh Pich as it fascinates me. I spoke to my company partners and asked for $2000 to make a short film – all I knew at that point was that it would be set on Diamond Island.

Diamond Days

Davy Chou takes a slice of Koh Pich to the Cannes Film Festival

year on from Rithy Panh’s Un Certain Regard prize win for The Missing Picture, Cannes Film Festival is once again honouring Cambodian cinema with the global premiere of Davy Chou’s new short film Cambodia 2099. Making its debut in the Director’s Fortnight category, the film follows two friends on the Phnom Penh’s number one teen hangout spot: Koh Pich (Diamond Island). The 20 minute film is the FrenchCambodian director’s first release since his critically acclaimed documentary on the preKhmer Rouge film industry, Golden Slumbers. We met up with Davy to discuss the new film. What is Cambodia 2099 about? On Diamond Island, the pinnacle of modern Cambodia, two friends tell each other their dreams from the night before. One always has a dream of going to the future, and one had a nightmare. The film ultimately ends up as a love story. I wanted to mix different genres – part rom-com, part karaoke video, part Manga or

 eve watling  davy chou comic book, and part videogame too – the image is very smooth, without grain and in bright colours, like Grand Theft Auto. I wanted the cleanest image possible to reflect modernity: a superdigital quality. My approach isn’t critical about modernisation – I just want to explore the relationship between the youth and the modernity of Cambodia, which is very emotional, new, complex, and exciting. I don’t pass any judgement, but at the same time, I’m very aware of the myth of modernity. The young people are really eager to be part of it and have access to it. What does modernity mean to young Khmers? They want to be part of the global world that they see coming to them, with the internet, commercial openness, the ASEAN. All of that wasn’t so close a few years ago. The promotional images and phrases are pushing both the traditional and the modern at the same time.

I had such a short deadline - it was like a school exercise! I hung out a lot on Koh Pich, especially in the evening when the young people come over on their motos. I liked seeing the people sitting on the edge of the island looking out across the river. Once, there were two guys in colourful t-shirts speaking together for an hour. It’s not really in the Khmer culture to have a long one on one discussion. I wondered what they were talking about, and so I decided to film the answer. Koh Pich is a place where young people come to dream, and in turn it provides them with a dream of an aspirational modern Cambodia. The film thinks about the future, but it’s more about Cambodia today.

You’re working on a feature film at the moment. Can you tell me more about this project? I’ve done a version of script and now I’m waiting for funding. I want to start shooting as soon as possible. The film will be more narrative driven and less dreamy than Cambodia 2099, but also about a group of young people hanging out at Diamond Island. I want to deal with universal stories – love, friendship, social issues, and destiny. It will be in the classical genre of youth film, like 1980s

I want to explore the relationship between the youth and the modernity of Cambodia, which is very emotional, new, complex, and exciting teen movies, but in a really specific modern Cambodian era. How does it feel to be included in the Cannes selection? It’s a total surprise! It was made with such a limited time and budget that I had no idea it would be chosen. I was just happy to make the film and show it to my friends. I’ve been to Cannes five times as an audience member, and now I’m in the place of the filmmaker it’s strange. I’m so proud to be in the Directors Fortnight section as it has a very strong heritage of indie films and has had some great directors in it. It’s my favourite section because it’s avant garde, pushing form and narrative. } Cambodia 2099 debuts at Cannes Film Festival on the 22nd of May .

The English mix master known as the Phatt Controller began DJing in 2012, kicking off the party with a heady mix of breakbeat, drum and bass, funk, soul and the occasional old school. Catch him after dark around Phnom Penh at Highrise at Dusk till Dawn and Swagger at Meta House.

T OF PLAYLISN TH THE MO

The phatt controller 1// Ctrl Z vs The Autobots Vs Screwface - Karma A good early song from FreQ Nasty, a white guy with dreads. I had dreads when I was 22, but no-one tells FreQ Nasty he looks ridiculous, do they?

2// Deekline and Wizard Live, NAPT, Skibadee Get Back I chose this to piss off a friend of mine who said it 'makes his ears bleed'. Semi-cheesy, but it has a great build up.

3// Freestylers - Dancehall Vibes The freestylers were the first reason I learned to love breakbeat. I met one the guys in 2011 at Pontoon, probably a seminal moment in his music career.

4// Compnded (Krafty Kuts re-cut) - Krafty Kuts, Gordon Edge Great song, and a little bit old skool. If you’ve never been to Meta House’s Swagger, it’s just like the video for this song.

5// Green Velvet - La La Land (Kid Kenobi Mix vs Proxy Music) This is a classic. For any children reading this, can I say on behalf of my lawyers that I don't condone the message of any of the lyrics of this track.

6// Paella ft. Million Dan - Blaze It Up Million Dan demonstrating some responsible MCing by telling everyone to 'eat some veg' on this track.

7// The Prodigy - Voodoo People (Pendulum Remix) I've never found a good moment to play this out, but I'd probably put it on my iPod if I was running away from someone trying to kill me.

8// Reuben Bell - Superjock (Stickybuds remix) I love soul and funk. This is a reworking of an old Reuben Bell track. EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY

Phnom Penh (855) 23 986 350

Siem Reap Sihanouk, Kep & Kampot Battambang (855) 34 934 155 (855) 63 964 409 (855) 53 953 855

cocktail

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

Let Him Go As Cambodia’s thirst for cocktails grows, bars are popping up everywhere selling everything from buckets of e-numbers to crisply mouth-watering elixirs. What's Up lends a hand to help you serve up a slice of the latter, for a fun cocktailslurping night that tastes great, but doesn’t break the bank.

let him go

by mango mango bar ingredients: 2cl Orange Flavored Triple Sec(Cointreau) 4cl White Rum (Bacardi) 3cl Vodka 2cl Creme de Banane 3cl Cranberry juice 3cl Pineapple juice 2cl Grenadine syrup 1,5 cl Lime 3 Strawberries

method: 1. Mash the strawberries in the shaker 2. Add all of the rest of the ingredients 3. Shake 4. Serve in a big wine glass, filled with ice

where?

MANGO MANGO 8, National Assembly Bouvard, Phnom Penh 086 322 322 www.mangomango.asia i mangomango.asia

extra

Reasons

 EVE WATLING

why battambang

is the coolest city in Cambodia “Oh, Battambang! The centre of my heart! It was hard to say goodbye”, sings Sinn Sisamouth in his 1960’s hit Champa Battambang. Yet many tourists don’t simply miss Battambang, but miss it out all together on their route through the Kingdom. With the construction of the new Siem Reap-style Pub Street last month, Battambang authorities are clearly trying to put Cambodia’s second biggest city back on the tourist map. However, we think that Battambang city is cool enough without having to resort to such backpacker-baiting methods. Here’s why:

The hangouts

Think Battambang’s a backwater? Well, it may not have as much variety as Phnom Penh, but the quality of the places it does have more than makes up for it. Our favourites are Jaan Bai (above), which is covered with psychedelic graffiti, with diners sitting on the wooden crates outside, enjoying the evening air. Lotus bar hosts the best alternative music and performance events, while its companion curio shop, Jewel in the Lotus, holds everything from rare Khmer rock tapes to comic books. Tearoom/gallery Choco L’Art holds semi-regular arty parties (and serves up a great cocktail).

The arts

The birthplace of the Cambodian queen of garage rock Ros Sreysothea, Battambang boomed during the 1960’s pop culture explosion. Rebuilding the scene after the Khmer Rouge was galvanised by pioneering art school Phare Ponleu Selpak, which has helped Battambang recreate its disproportionately large and varied art scene. “There is a certain physic space [here] that lends itself to a creative atmosphere” says Battambang-based artist Nicolas Grey, and it seems he’s not the only one to think so. Galleries such as Make Maek and Sammaki showcase local talent, while live painting events also take place frequently in the city. Some of the best Battambang artists are grouped up in the art collective Trotchaek Pneik, and many more made a splash at the recent roving exhibition ‘Made in Battambang’.

The Rain gambling

Battambang is the epicentre of the popular Cambodian phenomena of rain gambling. Punters guess whether it will rain during a particular time slot in the day, betting on odds set by the bookies, and men crouched on rooftops of buildings will report back whether or not it rains. It’s a popular, if underground, past-time, and some wins are huge: get ready for the incoming rainy season, when Battambang becomes the Ascot of rain gambling. Just remember that it is illegal for Cambodians to gamble, so don’t be too pushy about taking photos of the rain spotters lurking on the city’s rooftops.

The countryside

You barely have to leave Battambang city centre to be slap-bang in the middle of some of the most stunning countryside that Cambodia has to offer. Follow the winding paths through mellow, unspoiled forest communities, passing by wooden boats and temples painted every bright, juicy colour of the rainbow. Remoteness has never been nearer.

The history

Battambang’s air is thick with its own history. Some even find the city’s palpably ghostly atmosphere overwhelming: the dilapidated colonial houses built during the times of the French procorate imbue a decaying feeling to the city. The later monuments left by the Khmer Rouge, such as a killing cave at nearby Phnom Sampeau, positively reverberate with horror. Battambang was a regime stronghold, with some old guard still rumoured to be alive and hiding in the province’s remote mountain areas. Yet despite its recent troubles, the city was originally founded on a charming story of a cowherd who used a magic stick to usurp the king, only to disappear later: Battambang literally translates into ‘disappearing stick’ in Khmer. It’s this magical and folky atmosphere that, luckily, ultimately prevails in Battambang.

 where in battambang? Jaan Bai

Jewel in the Lotus

Choco L’Art Café

Sammaki

Make Maek art gallery

St. 2, ● 097 398 7815

No. 76, St. 2.5

Street 117, close to the

No. 87, St. 2.5,

No. 66, St. 2.5

● 017 913 814

Central market

i Sammakibtb

i Jaan Bai Restaurant

i Jewel in the Lotus

● O10 661 617

● 017 946 108 i Make Maek www.makemaek.org

extra

On the day of her wedding, some members of the Royal Family went to her house early in the morning trying to convince her to escape

them, she continues her story.

stories from the

past

 marina shafik  tanya cooper We pay a visit to Cambodia’s grandparents, who tell us their tales of the country’s past. This month, Yay Chea tells Marina Shafik about her rural childhood, the Japanese occupation, and her tribal secret to looking beautiful.

hen I first visited Yay (Grandma) Chea’s house in Kean Svay, she blessed me with some drops of Chanel – surely the most peculiar and chic way of praying for someone. After stuffing me with porridge, rice with beef, soup and her delicious banana dessert, Yay Chea starts telling me her story, which begins in Srok Chomka, the so called ‘country of fruits’. “I am the seventh of eight children. I still remember the nice family gatherings in our village. We ate fruits, chatted and then men went hunting for birds. There was a tree inhabited by hundreds of different species, and once my uncle caught an animal from it which was incredibly huge! Then we made soup and cooked together. These were happy moments.” She pauses for a moment and then goes on: “I don’t know where my family went after Pol Pot. If they were still alive I am sure they would come back to visit me. We had a

strong bond.” Yay Chea’s life was very simple. Like many women born in the 30s, her place was at home and helping with the family trade. She didn’t go to school. In fact, being extremely beautiful, her parents were afraid that she could be kidnapped, run away with a man or get pregnant. “When I was a child, in the morning I used to go to the pond to collect water for our banana trees. At times, I went swimming in the river – that was our bath – and fish literally surrounded me. I had so much fun catching them using my sarong! Sometimes at 12 o’clock I went to the Mekong to take the boat to the city. We had a special way of calling it, hitting a coconut shell with a piece of wood or stone, like this… Tock tock tock,” she says while knocking on a coconut. “Then I loaded on my fruits and sold them in front of the Palace or Wat Ounalom.” Chea gives me a bamboo fruit picker to get some mak-praing from the trees in her garden. As I taste the juicy pulp of one of

“One morning I heard a strange noise, strong and continuous. Wouuum wouuum,” she imitates the sound while moving her gnarled hands in the air. “I remember it was 10am. I looked out of the window and saw an endless fleet of Japanese aeroplanes. It was WW2 and they had come to bomb our country. I was around 10 years old and I’ll never forget the image of the corpses floating along the Mekong River.” At a certain point Yay Chea’s life intertwines with the Royal Family’s. In fact, the king used to spend days of relaxation in her country house, and became enchanted by her beauty. On the day of her wedding, some members of the Royal Family went to her house early in the morning trying to convince her to escape. “I was young but I was not stupid. Even if I had gone to the Palace I knew I would have been just a mistress and had a very hard life, so I refused to live in a ‘golden cage’." "People used to get married very young in the 50s. I was married at 16 and had my first child at 17. After giving birth I used to drink liquor made with snakes by the tribes from the East which rejuvenates your skin. Srok Chomka has always been renowned for the exceptional beauty of its women… now I can reveal our secret. It was very simple: fruits.” }

extra

y first experience with a serial backpacker dater was a formative experience. I was 19 years old and hitchhiking in New Zealand. I met a local guy in a park who I persuaded to bowl through the lush Kiwi countryside in strangers cars with me, sipping beer and giggling. As I prepared to depart the next morning, I bid my brief amour a fond farewell, my heart bursting with the wild and unique adventure we’d just had together – until he let slip that he’d just done the exact same hitching journey the previous week with a German chick.

Needless to say, it was a rude awakening to discover that in lands frequented by backpackers, the local people don’t see you as an alluring, worldly, mysterious stranger but as another easy lay in raggedy jasmine pants.

confessions of a

SERIAL BACKpacker DATER  jane marnell  tanya cooper

Flash forward 5 years. Now I’m a ‘proper adult’ with an office job in Phnom Penh, a city crawling with backpackers. Fresh from a long-term relationship, the thought of serious commitment makes me dry retch. Even if it didn’t, the single male expats of Phnom Penh are hardly the most eligible of bachelors, unless your dream date night involves awkwardly dancing in Pontoon with a tweaked out English teacher before scouring the outskirts of the city looking for some more yabba. Khmer guys are cute, but the language barrier usually cuts things off at the basic conversation stage. Still, a girl needs to get her kicks. This commitment phobia mixed with the lack of permanent resident hotties led to the perfect storm in which I myself became a serial backpacker dater. And, for the most part, it’s great. Your love life consists of two-week whirlwind romances with good looking, interesting 20-somethings from all over the globe. In turn, they love having a ‘local’ to show them around, awestruck at your 10 words of Khmer. With a ton of free time, they’re

Commitment phobia mixed with the lack of permanent resident hotties led to the perfect storm in which I became a serial backpacker dater available when you want them, and are full of contagious excitement and a zest for adventure – it almost feels like you’re on holiday too. And you never have to reach that sticky ‘are we an item or not’ threshold – each relationship has a definite and non-negotiable expiration date safely printed on an airline ticket. At first it seems like you’ve finally found the variety that is allegedly the spice of life. However burnout soon kicks in, soon you find yourself living in a kind of Groundhog Day: as you make another trip to Silk Island and listen about how India changes your life, you might find yourself surreptitiously checking your phone and calculating how long until happy hour begins. Soon it seems like they’ve all merged into one person and you’re the same conversation over and over again - the rom-com 50 First Dates no longer seems to be an outlandishly high-concept comedy, but more like gritty social realism. Ultimately, they’re a tourist in your life as well as in this country, and so it’s hard not to feel a bit like a tour guide who turns tricks on the side. And you don’t even get paid! Don’t get me wrong: I’m still an unrepentant backpacker chaser, and I will be until I can stomach the idea of sleeping with someone without any guarantee that they will be leaving the country soon. Like many things in this city, romance can be easy, cheap and transient – just be careful you don’t end up with your own section in the Lonely Planet. }

how to Across from Siem Reap’s old market, tucked away on top of ethical handicrafts store Sao

How to make your own pendant – at home!

Mao, Madeline Green is turning remnants of Cambodia’s troubled history into delicate, handmade objets d’art. The daughter of a silversmith, she graduated from a prestigious

To make a ring, you need a soldering iron – unfortunately not something that many people have lying around. However, making an earring or pendent is simple and requires no metalwork experience and just the minimum of tools. Here’s how you go about it. You will need:

English 3D design course before coming to Cambodia and beginning a jewellery line and workshop classes using the most unlikely of materials: diffused bullets.

Bullets and Beads

one woman's mission to turn trash into treassure

“M

aking jewellery from bullets and other scrap metal is a really Cambodian thing”, says Madeline, “It just proves how cheap and simple it really is to make jewellery. They sell all the tools here in the markets – the Russian market in Phnom Penh is also a great place to find them. I started out making jewellery in my bedroom, so I really enjoy the innovative attitude found here”. Bullets are difficult to source, and potentially dangerous – it’s all too easy to incur more than a slight eyebrow singing by trying to saw into a live bullet. However, Madeline insists that it’s incredibly cheap and easy to find a whole range of scrap metal here. “Just go to any junk yard and buy it! You can make jewellery from anything – even old biscuit tins”. In a world of increasing dependence on mass-produced, throwaway products, it’s refreshing to be reminded of the satisfaction found in designing and crafting your own unique accessories.

  eve watling Over the course of the morning, I watch a workshop in which she teaches a new student how to transform three bullet cases into a unique, bling-tastic ring. First, Madeline and her student design the ring. Then the tops of the bullets are cut off with the piercing saw, and then filed flat to be ready for soldering to a brass base. Madeline’s soldering machine is a DIY ramshackle contraption, a million miles away from anything found in her native England. Consisting of an empty fire extinguisher canister hooked up to an old blow torch and powered by the yellow petrol sold by the roadside, the solderer must light it with a bic and then pump air though the system of tubes using a giant foot pump. “It’s Cambodian style”, grins Madeline. Afterwards, the band of the ring is measured and cut from a sheet of brass, and then hammered into a circle and soldered shut. Then the two pieces are soldered together, making the ring complete. Amazingly, the manufacturing date of the bullet etched on its rim is the year of birth of the ring’s new creator – appropriate considering this piece of weaponry has just found itself re-born as something beautiful.

Just go to any junk yard and buy it! You can make jewellery from anything even an old biscuit tins

• A small sheet of brass or other scrap metal • Round nosed pliers (Khmer: dong kap) • A piercing saw (dong annah) • A file (die chaht) • A hand-drill • A metal block • brass wire • A wooden chopping board and a hammer (all of which are available in most big markets) • You will also need a chain for the pendent

where?

Buy Madeline’s range of bullet jewellery, Ammo, at Sao Mao, Siem Reap and Heritage Suites Hotel, Siem Reap. Arrange your own jewellery making workshop with Madeline by emailing ammodesigns1@gmail.com

i facebook.com/ammojewellery

2 Step 1: Think about the size and shape of your pendent, especially in relation to your body. Do some sketching, then mark out the design on your sheet of brass of scrap metal.

Step 4: Either in a pattern, or just for the hole to hang it on, drill into the metal. You can shape the holes afterwards from the inside with a small file.

Step 2: Holding the metal secure on the edge of a table, and cut out the shape with the piecing saw.

Step 5: Make the loop to attach the pendent to the chain by wrapping the wire around the nose of the round-nosed pliers into a tight spiral. Loop the pendent through and hammer the spiral closed.

Step 3: Refine the shape and smooth the edges with a file.

Step 5: Attach to the chain

geek

 ismail vorajee  google

Digital angkor

Since its inception in 2005, Maps has grown to become the world’s most popular smartphone app. By allowing the user the freedom to navigate streets, boulevards and roads with the aid of their smartphone’s inbuilt GPS, It has reduced the dependence on traditional paper maps, whilst resorting to asking locals for directions in most ma jor cities is now relatively a thing of the past. At least this applies to most cities; yet Google is still to rollout street view of Phnom Penh. Unfortunately, it isn’t likely to be completed anytime soon, perhaps

due to the haphazard nature of the city’s layout. I dread to think how a Google Streetview vehicle, with trusty camera in-tow, would manoeuvre the streets of Phnom Penh during rush hour.

In the meantime, we can console ourselves with the thoroughly astounding achievement the Google team have accomplished in mapping Cambodia’s ancient Angkor Wat complex. With the help of a receptive and encouraging local tech-minded public, Google was able to craft an incredible step-bystep and user intuitive view of the much-lauded UNESCO world heritage site. From the familiar confines of their laptop, iPad, iPhone or Android device, a user has merely to load up their ‘Maps’ app to get a unique 360-degree view of

the famed temple with its innumerable monuments. The mission to bring Street view to Cambodia is part of Google’s much larger aim at highlighting the world’s most important and significant heritage sites, through what they have so suitably dubbed the ‘World Wonders’ project. Celebrated by many as a commendable initiative, its stated resolution is to bring ‘world heritage sites online so that they can be explored by people around the world and preserved for future generations.’ }

The Geek Briefing Google’s street view

oogle’s popular street view feature is a remarkable feat of engineering which has proved invaluable especially to the millions who peruse the San-Francisco based giants ‘Maps’ app. Offering the ability to view a desired location at street level makes often frustrating and laborious tasks like locating restaurants & hotels much simpler than it was before the advent of the smartphone. I’m sure many of you have often found yourself a little lost in an unfamiliar city frantically searching for a vacant hostel before the dark sets in, with rain clouds hovering menacingly above. It is a situation all too common to many of us (and one I have found myself in all too often). Fortunately, thanks to my dependable smartphone, I have always found recourse in the familiar embrace of Google Maps to escort me to my destination, kind of like a pocket Toto accompanying Dorothy a lá Wizard of Oz.

highlight & gloss

Anna's choice

getabout matteit Anna Mischke

When perusing Pencil Supermarket on Norodom, I picked up the crayons - all under $10- in Striking, Complex, and Mischievous. Striking is the one I keep handy the most in my faux fur onthe-go kit; it’s a bright red that can work on any skin tone but understated enough to wear to a business meeting. The matte-ness keeps it muted while making an impact and brightens up the face even with very little makeup and is an excellent time saver. Complex, on the other hand (or

n a land of crumby knockoffs and foreign

At any given moment, it’s guaranteed

lip?), is a peachy caramel perfect for

cosmetics, seeing the good old name

that I’ve got one or two of these babies

everyday wear. Paired with a smoky eye

“Revlon” can be a comfort to many an

in my touch up bag. Whether the original

it’s perfect for a night out and while it

expat. The tried and true Revlon Red, super

formula of Colorburst Just Bitten Kissable

long lasting eyeliner, Easter-egg hued nail

Balm Stain or the Matte Balm, they’re easy

lacquers, and all day staying power powder

to apply (no mirror needed!), last the per-

perfect for extra hot months are all there - but

fect length of time, and fade into a soft

recently the worldwide brand added to their

tint. With a light peppermint scent and

empire with the brilliant Colorburst Matte

Triple Butter Complex- shea, mango, and

Balm crayons.

coconut - your lips not only look smashing but feel nourished at the same time. The formula doesn’t dry out as some other

Paired with a smoky eye it’s perfect for a night out

may look a bit dull in the tube, it comes to life when it touches your lips. You can layer Complex for a barely-there matte finish to an almost milky beige. Mischievous was a must-buy not only because it was a nickname of mine for years, but a pop of creamy tangerine on a hot day is just what’s needed for a simple day-at-the-pool look. Simply swipe a layer of the crayon on, throw on some sunnies and a swimsuit, and soak up the rays! It may look daunting in the tube, but once applied and blotted it’s quite muted and can be layered several times for a neon effect. Each color lasted through many a cup of ginger tea, a Fat Boy sandwich, and plenty of chattering at the office. }  jack malipan

Fwhere? you can find THESE REVLON matte crayons Striking, Complex, and Mischievous AT :#15, street 214, Sangkat Boeung Raing, Khan Daun Penh.

matte balms or lipsticks do and the ease of the crayon makes application-on-thego a breeze. These balms go on smooth but leave a velvety texture and a matte look - an equation that can be difficult to master when searching for quality lip colors in The Kingdom, especially at the grocery store!

A Few tricks when wearing matte lipcolor Ensure you’ve got perfectly smooth lips. A matte shade only brings out any imperfections or flaky, wind chapped lips so prepping is an important step. One of my favorite ways in keeping a soft pout is to exfoliate with a bit of sugar and honey or coconut oil for an all natural and quick fix (it also tastes delicious). If you’re going for a bolder color, keep the rest of your makeup minimal and understated and lastly, wear your colour with confidence. If you don’t feel like you can pull of a bright red, start with a sheer burgundy and work your way up.

AD-FULL PAGE

HEALTH health

street snack assessed

feel good food

Freshwater clams

The classic Cambodian snack, freshwater clams sprinkled in chilli and salt, can be found all around the country being wheeled along in flat-topped barrows. But is it healthy? We investigate.

WARNING:

The breakdown: Calories: 51 cal/ 100g

d . i .y health

hnom Penh-based nutritionist Francesca Eldridge shows us how to replenish our sweaty bods with a delicious smoothie.

hot season smoothie

“I keep hearing people say hot season leaves them feeling fatigued. This is a breakfast smoothie recipe using seasonal produce, geared toward replacing some of the major minerals easily lost to sweat at this time of year. The coconut water, bananas and parsley are rich in potassium. Potassium is lost to excessive sweating, alcohol, caffeinated drinks, sugar and diuretic drugs. We also lose potassium when we have vomiting and diarrhea. Sodium is also lost to excessive sweating, vomiting and diarrhea- some common sodium deficiency signs are muscle cramps, weak muscles, nausea, dizziness, and impaired concentration. Both sodium and INGREDIENTS potassium are vital for 1/8 cup fresh coconut water balance in our water blood and tissues.” 2 tablespoons Sunshine

All fruit can be sourced at Digby’s and Natural Garden on st 63, BKK1, where they are either certified organic, or chemical free.Combine all ingredients in blender and whiz for a good few minutes; gradually adding more coconut water as you go to achieve the desired consistency. Contact Francesca at www.conscious-nutrition.com or by phone at 096 4393 743

Mart yoghurt 2 tablespoons of coconut milk handful of parsley 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground Kep sea salt (you may wish to leave this out if you have high blood pressure) half a ripe mango 1-2 small frozen bananas

It contains: A shedload of Vitamin B12, which helps maintain the brain and nervous system. They also contain high levels of copper and iron. Clams are low in fat and rich in omega-3 fatty acids, so they’re good for the heart. The protein level of clam is much higher than that of red meat, with very few calories. It helps in building lean body mass. It is rich in vitamin A, which is required by the body to maintain healthy skin and also promotes vision, growth and bone development.

Clams sold on the street often aren’t cleaned very thoroughly, and may retain dirt, mud and pollution. To make this a healthy snack, buy fresh clams and prepare them yourself.

Overall health rating: Pretty good – as long as they’re clean!

Kombucha

lready a huge hit in the West, the probiotic heath drink Kombucha is now being brewed here in Cambodia. The drink is made from a self-generating bacteria colony called Symbiolic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast (or SCOBY for short). The colony, which resembles a mix between a pancake and a squid when fully developed, is left floating in a mixture of tea, water and sugar for around 10 days. Over this time, the SCOBY has not only duplicates itself by birthing a baby SCOBY, but turns the liquid into the probiotic rich, vinegary-tasting health drink known as Kombucha.

Texas native Lance Thomas has been brewing Kombucha for 2 and a half years, and is a firm believer in the power of the SCOBY. Glass bottles and 2 gallon jars line the walls of his house, and he even has a few dried SCOBYs hanging out on his desk. “They’re incredible things” he says, “you can make almost anything from them: drum skins, shoes, canvases”. Despite the mad scientist inventiveness, Lance is scrupulously clean and methodical when he comes to making the drink, sterilising his hands and equipment with vinegar multiple times during the brewing, and testing the pH levels of every completed batch.

Although limited scientific research has been conducted on the drink, it is believed to contain many health benefits, including redressing the pH levels of the body and boosting the immune system. The mixture has an effervescent, tart, cidery taste, and is gently infused with fruit, honey or Chia seeds – and makes for a mean hangoverminimising cocktail mixer. An eco-friendly outlook is also crucial to his venture, named the Kombutea Brewing Company. Lance collects bottles from friends and local bars, and gives buyers a discount on their next Kombucha if they bring back the empty bottle from the last purchase. 330ml bottle - $2.50/$2 with bottle return or 750ml bottle - $8.00/$7 with bottle return. Kombucha from the Kombutea Brewing Company can be purchased either through pickup or delivery- contact Lance at 0889466380 or email lancethomaslance@gmail.com

STREET

STYLE

sylvia stacy is a teacher from the UK I live in Dubai. I love the brunches there – they go from 11am to 4pm and by the end everyone is completely hammered

sophut

yan

is a street food vendor from Prey Veng province

is a musician from Phnom Penh I play hip-hop! I can’t beat box though

works for an NGO and is from Australia I got this necklace here in Phnom Penh. It’s handmade

pary is a salesgirl from Prey Veng province I miss my family back home, but I have to work here and save money for them

travel Laos’ combination of volcanic red earth soils, high altitudes and mild temperatures make for some of the tastiest coffee in the world. Drink a bold, thick brew like a local from a cart parked kerbside, or reenergise at one of Vientiane’s many chilled-out cafés, which rely heavily on coffee beans grown in the country’s highlands to help sustain the local fair-trade coffee industry and support local farmers.

B Alexandra Pace

>>NEXT STOP

Vientiane

Seemingly overlooked by the urban sprawl that’s taking hold of much of Southeast Asia, Vientiane has maintained the charm of the simple life that draws many expats to Asia in the first place. Life in Laos’ capital has a slow, sleepy pace - perfect for long lunches, afternoon naps and evenings watching the sun set with icy cold glasses of the nation’s famous Beer Lao.

ts streets, dotted with a charming mix of decrepit French villas and art deco Russian buildings, highlighted by hot pink bougainvillea, beckon visitors to discover the charming city by foot or pedal (grab a bicycle for about $5 a day from most guest houses) with canals, stilt houses and pagodas dominating the outlook of this village city.

If you’ve ever considered learning more about Buddhism, Vientiane could be the perfect place to explore the more spiritual side of life. Pha That Luang- a 45-metre high gold gilded stupa that sits in the city centre– is a good start, as itis believed to be the site of some of Buddha’s remains.

Southeast of town, ten kilometres past the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, is the home of one of Vientiane’s quirkiest attractions, Buddha Park. Xieng Khuan or ‘Spirit City’ is the brainchild of Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, a self-styled holy man who took Hindu and Buddhist philosophy and merged it with mythology and iconography to create this eccentric sculpture meadow. A giant reclining Buddha draws attention, but it is the sculpture resembling a giant pumpkin with the skeleton of a tree sprouting out of its top that really begs closer inspection (and looks like it could be straight out of a scene from Tim Burton’s Nightmare Before Christmas).

For more fair-trade karma, head to Vientiane’s leafy back-streets where non-profit and fair-trade organisations feature beautiful silk scarves coloured with vegetable dyes, handmade jewellery, hats, baskets, wild honey and banana liquor, in support of hill tribe artisans to preserve Lao village textiles and handicrafts. At day’s end join the throngs of joggers, lovers, locals and jetsetters as they meander along the 14-hectare Chao Anouvong Park and meet for a sundowner overlooking the Mekong River at Baw Pennyoung Bar (meaning no worries) - the beer is cold and the views of sleepy Vientiane are the best in town. }

GO IF: You are ready for a spiritual awakening; or like drinking good beer while watching the sunset

AVOID IF:

AN IN-THE-KNOW GUIDE Coffee break

>> Little House is a Japanese-run cafe inside a little wooden house with arguably the finest coffee in Vientiane (so good in fact that the coffee shop also doubles as a coffee wholesaler, which trades with many other restaurants and cafes in and around the city.) Grab an iced espresso from LK 15,000. The decadent truffles are also to die for!

Food for thought >>Head to stylish Lao Kitchen, a holein-the-wall diner, for local staples such as laarp (minced meat with ground rice and herbs) and lam (hearty stew seasoned with pepper bark).

You don't like living life in the fast lane.

When to go: Weather-wise, Vientiane falls into a similar weather pattern as Cambodia. But time your trip with a festive holiday such as Boun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival) that runs for the month of May, or the That Luang Festival (25 Nov-1 Dec) to see the city really come alive.

One for the road >>Kop Chai Deu (find it on Setthathirath Road) is the city’s longest-standing bar institution. Located in an old colonial bungalow, it’s a little grungy and a little kitsch, but the service is welcoming, the price is right and live rock anthems make it the perfect spot for a quintessentially Laos experience.

reviews

cinema

new releases music

the amazing spiderman 2

mac demarco - salad days “Salad days are gone/ Acting like my life’s already over”: on DeMarco's third album, woozy, countrified guitars slide in and out of tune as he contemplates the bleakness of the reality of adult life. “You’re better off dead when your mind’s been set from nine til five”, he sings on Brother, a track that moves from a plodding rhythm into a screeching, echoing freakout. DeMarco is realising that the true salad days aren’t when you’re young and broke, but when you’re slightly older and broke. Although the album as a whole can at times threaten run into a mopey monotone, tracks like Passing Out Pieces inject an irresistible, so-laidback-its-vertical groove. "Watching my life, passing right in front of my eyes/ Hell of a story, oh is it boring?” Luckily, Mac DeMarco’s album of discontent is too brutal to ever be boring itself.

In this new instalment of the franchise, Spiderman is busy fighting a whole bunch of villains. Electro (Jamie Foxx) is the biggest baddie of them all, managing his complicated relationship with his girlfriend Gwen (Emma Stone) while searching the truth about his parent’s death.

Kelis – Food

Pixies – Indie Cindy

Last time Kelis sang about edibles she was licking cream off a cherry in the Milkshake video. Ten years later, she’s become a wholesome culinary goddess. Food is celebrating a far more nourishing kind of eating: think a cosy family meal rather than chocolate body paint.

Right from the beginning of Indie Cindy, it’s clear that something ain’t right with Pixies. The unexpected lyrics have turned into meaningless ear candy: “I like that slinky little punky/ Itty bitty chunky right there/ Little bit lippy, a whipped cream hippie”... guh?

If there is something director Marc Webb is good at, it’s juggling with many elements to create an almost perfectly balanced film, where action and story complete each other. After a first opus that was well managed despite some rhythm issues, the director comes back with a deep and exciting movie where characters’ interactions are probably the biggest strength.

Gone too is the surreal raw nerve of the in their earlier work. The lobotomised through-the-motions feeling of this album is somehow even creepier than when they were singing about incest and damnation.

Responsible for the applauded 500 days of Summer, Marc Webb already showed us how good he is when it comes to showcasing his characters’ romantic torments.

Earthy and soulfully toned, the album certainly conjures up old school sensuality; even a Lion King-esque, alpha mama vibe. It has its share of quirky musical choices that will keep up her reputation as someone on the leftfield of the R&B game, but the hooky spangle of past hits such as Acapella feels missing. With Beyonce releasing singles as drastically weird yet obsessively catchy as Drunk in Love, it feels like Kelis needs to leave the kitchen, and see how far the leftfield has widened since she’s been away.

Kim Deal wisely jumped ship in the early days of the reunion, and perhaps her brooding bass hooks and angelic harmonising is crucial to the band's chemistry. Indie Cindy has some decent songswriting, but it's depressingly toothless considering it comes from a band that once had the sharpest bite.

The Amazing Spiderman 2 also goes deeper as the hero digs into his dark past to find answers, in a plot that brings a new layer to this already complex interweaving of destinies. A bit weak in the action scenes in the previous film, the director is now mastering the genre and offers some of the most visually impressive Spiderman swings on top of the New York’s skyline. The result is a hectic and deep story where every character’s path moves towards their unavoidable end, preparing at the same time some very interesting developments for the future movies.

Battambang-based artist Nicolas C. Grey has teamed up with frequent collaborator James Farley to tell the stories of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most (in)famous gurus.

MAY agenda 1

GALERIE DES ARTS

@The Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra

A jungle Out There

@ Christine's Store, Siem Reap

30 artists and over 100 pieces of art from international and local artists.

Painting Exhibition by Vincent Broustet.

@ Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra

@ Lotus Lodge, Siem Reap

Siem Reap Scavenger Hunt Starting at 10am, the Lotus Lodge will be hosting its first annual Siem Reap Photo Scavenger Hunt. Afterwards, the Lotus Lodge will host an after party!

Wine & Chocolate Indulgence @ Phnom Penh Community College, 2.30pm

sunday sessions @ SoulTEA'se Cafe, 12pm

the chapel @ Code Red, 9pm

The Return of Swing Penh @ Code Red Join us for the debut of Speakeasy cocktail event. Swinging in your vintage drape with moonshine in hand. 6.30pm

The Highest Tea in town

High Tea with a breathtaking view of Phnom Penh at the exclusive Club Millésime

Open Mic Of Music & Comedy @Oscar 51, 8pm

13-18

No Problem Disco

THE PINK PENH

@ Show Box

@Pontoon Pulse, 11pm

Muscle Cars and Hot Dogs

@Meta House CAMBODIA LGBT PRIDE is planned to coincide with International Day Against Homophobia and Transphobia - IDAHOT- on the 17th May every year. Meta House is proud to participate by organizing the 5th LGBT PRIDE FILM FEST. This year, we have scheduled 33 recent films after which, DJs, VJs and local musicians perform in our Art Café. For details please check our calendar or website. Entrance is free.

MOTHER’S DAY SUNDAY BRUNCH

latino session

@La Coupole With live entertainment, unlimited Veuve Clicquot, French favourites and authentic Indochinese cuisine. Sunday 11th May at La Coupole from 11.30am to 2.30pm. $55 per person or $70 with unlimited Veuve Clicquot Champagne. All day access to swimming pool, kids’ corner and live entertainment.

All the great rockabilly and other assorted car music you can stomach topped of by build your own hot dogs and free beer.

@Doors

. An afternoon of workshops from 1pm

the flumes

@ Equinox

“The End of the Fumes as we know it”: last performance by the energetic rock band., 9pm

Learn Intermediate Khmer Language & Culture @PPCC (5 days over 5 weeks course)

velvet swing @Riverhouse, 7pm Feat.

SebAdnot,

Lewis

Pragasam & Phil. Let’s get back to the crazy years of swing!

KromSong @ Doors

Krom: a unique blend of Delta blues sound with traditional Khmer. a full show from the band preceded by a special poetry reading by novelist, author and playwright John Gartland. 9pm.

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Buy one get one free (cocktails + non alc oholic drinks) in cluding ta pas from 5PM to 7PM @ Palate Angkor, Sie m Reap Buy one get one free cocktail from 6PM 7:30PM @ to Mezze Bar, Siem Reap

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