What's Up Magazine #20 April by Pierre Rabotin

#20 04/14

Ur Editor In Chief Pierre Rabotin Ur Editor Eve Watling Ur Designer Tanya Cooper Monika Ang Ur Designer Assistant Sok Sochetra Ur Sales Manager Sarah Belli 0888 197 202 sarah@wuppmag.com Ur Photographers Nick Sells Zeeshan Haider Ur Journalists C.M. Griffin Ismail Vora jee Anna Mischke Daniel Jenkins Sean Barrett Ur Project Managers Klicia Schubert Louise Couchaux Ur Distribution Manager Sorn Vanny Special Thanks Nick & Kip

Cover Portrait of Lisa Mam by Nick Sells at: So Shoot Me Studio ..... WHAT’S UP MAGAZINE contact@wuppmag.com facebook/wupp.magazine www.wuppmag.com 097 958 7338

Dear Readers, The heat is on! As April temperatures soar, Cambodia is becoming a boiling pot holding a simmering stew of exciting new happenings. We’re keeping up with the change: to celebrate our readership in our many distribution points across the nation, we’ve gone from What’s Up Phnom Penh to What’s Up magazine. Luckily for you, our passion for bringing you the freshest stories from across Cambodia remains unchanged. One of the most exhilarating things we’ve noticed hotting up recently is the graffiti scene. As it spreads like wildfire, it’s leaving behind a stunning trail of ornamental patterns, Apsara hands, and coiled serpents. We’ve even made you a map of graffiti hotspots so you can find them yourself. Wall art will also be making its way over to Siem Reap, as a new skatepark opening aims to allow the local kids to hone their art skills on its walls. If this isn’t hot enough for you, work up a beer-scented sweat with our all-American boozehound reporter at Phnom Penh’s yoga studios. Meanwhile, over in this month’s smokin’ hot fashion shoot, we give you inspiration for fresh, gravity defying hair in the season of sweaty fringes and limp locks. Our magazine keeps growing with every month, and once again we have the longest and most feature-packed issue yet. Follow us on Facebook for daily updates – and remember, there’s no hotter magazine in Cambodia. Happy Khmer New Year The What’s Up team

Ur Co-Founder & Managing Director Antony Hamon

ÂŠ Bow Photography

MAG

Content Interview MIT JAI INN

Photo Of The Month

New Discoveries

Cover PAINT THE TOWN!

Street SKATEPARK IN SIEM REAP

Tryout YOGA VIRGIN

In Conversation PHOTO JOURNALISM

Hypemaker

Fashion IN MOTION

Highlight & Gloss COCONUT OIL

Heath FEEL GOOD FOOD

Wine & Food THE STRAND

Snack ICE CREAM

Music SAILING THROUGH THE AIRWAVES

5 Reasons TO VISIT SILK ISLAND

Playlist DJ SUPERCOZI

Cocktail SOK SA BAI

Geek

A Day in a Life ELEPHANT

How to… DRAW A LEAF IN YOUR COFFEE

Street Style

Next Stop HANOI

Reviews

Gurus

Agenda

SOS Page

P24

P30

P48 P52 Nº 20-april 2014

INTERVIEW

Freaky You Are Always MIT JAI INN BRINGS HIS FREE-FORM PAINTINGS TO PHNOM PENH EVE WATLING

n enfant terrible of the Thai art world, Mit Jai Inn made his reputation through contrariness, seemingly trying to break as many social and artistic taboos as possible with each painting, pushing and exposing received social concepts and power relations that he sees as strange or harmful. A 2012 series of paintings of the highly deified Thai flag was painted with blood-like splatters and faint traces of feet, the symbolically lowest part of the body. It’s a bold move in a country that has some of the world’s strictest laws – not to mention a heap of social stigma - regarding the criticism of the royal, political and religious establishments. Now the Thai artist is coming to Cambodia with a show at the SA SA BASSAC gallery. Entitled Post-Positive: Freaky You Are Always, it’s a solo show of new paintings – but unlike any you’ve seen before. Hanging from the ceiling, visitors can walk around the paintings, viewing each side and appreciating them as objects in space, rather than simply as a surface. Even more unusually, a

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

nail bar will also be installed in the gallery, which according to organisers, will “encourage painterly responses and dialog with Jai Inn’s ideas, colours and surfaces.” The nail bar hints at Jai Inn’s soft side: although his work shows no mercy to institutional hypocrisy, it’s ultimately also an attempt to foster open and democratic relationships as well as dismantling oppressive ones. Seeing himself as a relational artist, his work encompasses the process of creation, consumption and the collaborative flow that occurs during his work. In much of his work, which denies solid categorisation as either painting or sculpture, thick layers of paint cover both sides of the paper, which sometimes hang swaying in space or lie furled on the floor. In some shows, people are invited to tear off and keep chunks of his work, in a direct contrast to the art world’s prevailing mood of the deification and veneration of paintings – just imagine the Mona Lisa being exhibited this way. Post-modernist art can be sombre and obtuse - Jai Inn’s freaky positivity is a breath of fresh air.

FOR ME, PAINTING IS A WAY OF PUTTING A STOP TO TIME

I SEE THE INTERNET AS A UTOPIAN REALM WHERE THERE ARE NO GEOGRAPHICAL OR NATIONAL BOUNDARIES, BUT A FLUID SOCIETY OF PEOPLE What’s Up Magazine: Tell me a little about your SA SA BASSAC exhibition... Mit Jai Inn: My initial proposal was to make a work combining the Thai and Cambodian political and social situations, which are both intensifying. I decided the best way to do this was to make a more neutral work that might be able to relate to Cambodians in the form of a non-verbal aesthetic.

Because there’s no set way of hanging your work, how do you know where to place them in a space? That is not my duty. I just make objects. They should be used as people please. They don’t relate to me anymore after they leave my studio and enter into another sphere of meaning.

The artworks are double sided. How does each side correspond with each other? My interest in art-making is how to liberate the experience of artworks from the static convention and form of visual art, whether it be a painting or a sculpture. In fact, the audience themselves tend to be trapped by this dimension of perceiving art. What I seek to do is to make my works movable and mutable. My work happens to take place in a situation where people are walking around and socialising with one another. It is an ephemeral experience, where people can see each other, and not necessarily just the objects. What is the nail bar for? As a macho painter, I feel disappointed that I can never tame men with my works [laughs]. So I make an homage to ladies and ladyboys of Phnom Penh. You seem concerned about questioning what we hold sacred as a society – nation, religion, art. Do you think it’s always bad to hold these things up as being sacred? What do you think is sacred? Historically, notions of the sacred have been prescribed by the elite castes. To me, this is just propaganda; a way to advance and sustain the legitimacy of the ruling classes. To me, such a premise of the sacred, as how the masses accept them to be, is fundamentally a human construction. It’s like how people put sacred things on a high altar. But when you do that, you are also lowering yourself. With painting, when you put something on a wall, you also make it sacred. I prefer to put my works down on the floor or hanging in space. The core of this principle is about being more human, and not deifying art.

You paint with knives, building up layers of paint on the canvas. What does this layering mean to you? Layering is a process where I am trying to show the nature of changing phenomena. In painting, my layers shift from palettes of bright to thick to sombre. It’s my way of representing a primordial state of origin which I remember witnessing ever so often as a child when I experienced visions of pure light, or simply rays. It is still so lucid and clear to me. Painting and layering for me is a process of recalling the memory of this state. They seem to be very of this generation of internet experience: throwaway, malleable, collaborative, shared. Do you embrace this new technological way of interacting or do you see it as flawed? After I had an iPad for a month, I started to see the Internet as a Utopian realm where there are no geographical or national boundaries, but a fluid society of people from diverse backgrounds coming together to engage in common causes of interest. It’s so beautiful that you can connect with people and create new forms of societies this way. Imagine, even with 10 people with a common vision, you are already witnessing a kind of society being formed. But of course, also after I have this tool, I have less rest. It also seems like you’re trying to diffuse painting into everyday life. In your eyes, what would be the ideal fusion between painting and person? The term ‘everyday life’ has specific meanings and contexts in art history, whether it is the painter who paints scenes of everyday life or the emergence of relational art in the 1990s. But can painting truly be part of everyday life if it is situated in a white cube? Above all, painting is about the longing for transcendence. We are bounded by the routine of daily existence, and trapped by our limited perception of time, not just chronological time, but psychological time. For me, perhaps painting is a way of putting a stop to time.

What do you make of the ongoing political crisis in Thailand? There will soon be a civil war. It’s already happening in Bangkok with the killing, the torture and the abuse of power, not perpetrated by the present government, but by the old elites. At the heart of things, it is as the Italian theorist Antonio Gramsci best puts it: “The crisis consists precisely in the fact that the old is dying and the new cannot be born.”

where? Post-Positive: Freaky You Are Always is showing at the SA SA BASSAC gallery from 3rd of April – 11th May. The gallery can be found on the 2nd Floor at No.18, Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh and at sasabassac.com. The Postpositive Freaky Nail Bar is open throughout the exhibition. Self-service on weekdays and full-service on Saturdays.

facebook.com/motocambodge instagram.com/motocambodge

This photo was a combination of patience and luck. I sat on the curb and waited for twilight, while locals hovered over the bike and asked questions about its design (by Moto Cambodge). When the monks strolled by I snapped the shot, and loved the result

BY CRYSTAL PATTERSON

Photo OF THE MONTH

AD-FULL PAGE

DISCOVERIES

new discoveries OUR LATEST FAVOURITE THINGS

CAFE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> KAYA SPA & CAFE

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEES Toul Korkers can now enjoy Gloria Jean’s expertly made coffees (and its aircon) in its new store opened in the district. The company classifies each cup by aroma, flavour, finish, body and acidity so coffee lovers can find their perfect cup of Joe, whether it be a nutty cup of Authentic Mocha Java or the floral Ethiopian Yirgacheffe.

Your lazy day in Siem Reap has now got lazier – in Kaya Spa and Cafe, you don’t even have to leave the building to enjoy both a traditional massage and delicious, freshly made food. The airy, red-bricked cafe serves up shakes, ice-creams and fresh juices, but is particularly noted for its speciality: traditional Khmer desert making. We tried the black sticky rice pudding, a divinely sweet and gooey concoction of rice, honey, palm sugar and coconut, served with slices of fresh mango: the Cambodian version of sticky toffee pudding. If that doesn’t tempt you, then maybe the special spa treatments such as the aromatherapy candle massage – or their own line of products including jam, coffee, tea honey and rice wine - will.

Opposite the Old Market, Siem Reap - kaya-angkor.com

PAUL’S BREWHOUSE The coffee chain looks set to take over Phnom Penh with the opening of their sixth establishment. Promising the ‘taste of the USA’, the newest cafe will also serve up the classic combo of coffee and donuts in a modern setting. No. 52, Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh facebook.com/PaulBrewHouse

No.18/20, St. 592, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh - gloria jeans.com.kh

SOULTEA’SE CAFE

This new recycled boutique cafe, specialising in homemade teas, has a simple but awesome $2 menu including fresh fruit smoothies, salads and chocolate Bliss Balls. Other bits and bobs are also available for purchase, including clothes, Coco Khmer products, and handmade arts, comics and crafts. Every Sunday SoulTEA’se hosts ‘SoulTEA’se music and market Sunday sessions’, where you can book a spot to play music, read poetry and sell crafts, baked goods, or whatever you’re currently hawking.

Open: Tues-Sun, 9am-6pm,Upstairs at No. 55e, St. 240, Phnom Penh

RESTORE ONE CAFE Eating amazing food AND doing good - what’s not to love about Restore One cafe, part of the Restore One Charity? After having built a school in a Kampong Thong village, Restore are set on providing a fair wage for the teachers, providing adequate shelter, hygiene and nutrition for its pupils. And now they have made it easier for you to help their amazing project: by eating a burger at their cafe, you are funding the charity’s aim to end the village’s cycle of poverty. And worry not, food lovers: they don’t just serve up any old burger – it’s a mountain of fluffy buns, roasted veggies and juicy patties made of fish, beef, chicken or chickpeas. On the side, crispy, hand-cut chips and a selection of sauces finish of the quest for burger perfection. Giving has never tasted so sweet. No. 23, St. 123, Tuol Tom Pong, Phnom Penh - restoreone.org.au

RESTAURANTS >>>>>>> LA NICHE D’ANGKOR VILLA Entering through the wooden, orchid-lined walkway of this new Siem Reap hotel, the dusty bustle of the city seems like it’s from another lifetime. Each of the hotel’s airy, minimalist rooms overlooks its outdoor pool in a lush tropical garden. An open air restaurant with terrace offering a choice of traditional Cambodian cuisine and international dishes, and a spa providing professional massage to “restore and enhance natural beauty from the inside”, means you might never want to leave.

SPA >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> NAVUTU DREAMS

Navutu Dreams Resort & Spa isn’t just a gorgeous boutique paradise. Fast becoming Siem Reap’s holistic hub, it offers yoga twice daily in its specialised studio, as well as acupuncture, massage, healing and various other alternative and traditional therapies, all from certified experts and a regular rotation of guest teachers. Detox, yoga and burnout programs lasting between 1 and 5 days make this the perfect soothing minibreak retreat from the hectic stress of Phnom Penh. Navutu Road, Siem Reap navutudreams.com

SHOP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> PITCHOUN

Off Wat Bo Road, Street 26, Wat Bo Village, Siem Reap - lanichedangkor.com

MAMA WONG’S Chinese lanterns illuminate the glowing red interior of Mama Wong’s, providing an air of opium den-like mystery in Phnom Penh’s hippest new Chinese restaurant. Indeed, their decor should act as a warning to dumpling lovers: handrolled and fragrant, they are dangerously delicious and may send the eater into a heady, intoxicating dumpling dreamworld. At around $3 a pop, you’ll be guaranteed to come back for more.

Trendy mamas and papas of Phnom Penh no longer need to stress about where to buy their kids well-made and beautiful threads – the airy boutique Pitchoun sells it all, from cute floral dresses to bold graphic tees to colourful bags and shoes. Catering for kids from birth to ten years old, it also has a play corner for kids to amuse themselves in while their parents shop.

No. 41 St. 308, Phnom Penh facebook.com/pages/MamaWongs

No. 25, St, 294, Phnom Penh facebook.com/pitchoun.cambodia

cover

PAINT THE TOWN! MAPPING PHNOM PENH’S STREET ART EXPLOSION

EVE WATLING & PIERRE RABOTIN

ALL ACROSS PHNOM PENH, PAIRS OF HANDS HAVE STARTED CREEPING ACROSS WALLS; THEIR FINGERS STRETCHED IN KHMER DANCER’S POSES. ON OTHER WALLS, CARICATURE POLICE CHIEFS CACKLE, AND SNAKES WRAP AROUND SLEEPING MAIDENS DRAWN IN BOLD, GRAPHIC LINES. CAMBODIA’S STREET ART SCENE IS BLOSSOMING, BRINGING COLOUR TO CRACKED AND DILAPIDATED WALLS. YOUNG AND TALENTED ARTIST (AND THIS MONTH’S COVER STAR) LISA MAM IS ONE OF THE RISING FIGURES OF THE SCENE. THE ONLY FEMALE REPRESENTATIVE OF THE GENRE IN THE KINGDOM, THE STRONG-MINDED YOUNG WOMAN WON’T LET ANYBODY PICK ON HER FOR NOT BEING FROM AN ACADEMIC ART BACKGROUND. HER SOULFUL WORK, MADE OF HAUNTINGLY BEAUTIFUL WOMEN AND INTRICATE CAMBODIAN PATTERNS HAS ALREADY STARTED TO CROSS THE COUNTRY’S BORDERS, WITH MURALS IN FRANCE, SWITZERLAND AND THAILAND PAINTED WITH HER FREQUENT COLLABORATOR PEAP TARR. BUT IT’S NOT ONLY HER THAT IS BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO THE SCENE, WHICH IS BLOSSOMING AT AN INCREDIBLE SPEED. OTHER CAMBODIAN AND FOREIGN ARTISTS ARE GETTING IN ON THE ACT, MAKING A FUSION OF GLOBAL, ANCIENT AND VERY MODERN STYLES AND IDEAS. TO HONOUR THE MOVEMENT, HERE IS OUR MAP OF THE GREATEST GRAFFITI WORKS AND LOCATIONS IN PHNOM PENH.

AIRPORT ROAD FONKI Fonki: “I made a first version of this artwork one and a half years before this one. My goal was to use the Kbach style, which is the traditional Khmer style found on temples and ornamentations. At this time, I met the community around the area, and we wanted to work together make the place look a bit better. Sadly, police erased the artwork and put up barricades so I couldn’t work there anymore. In 2012 I came back, and met a lot of people from Boeung Kak lake who told me about the lake being filled in. I decided to add a wildness to my design, something more Khmer and elaborate, after people told me their stories.

©Victor Blanco

YOBS

©Fonki

I like this place because it’s a microcosm of Phnom Penh. You have the high-rise buildings and the slums, all in the same location. It’s ephemeral like the city itself: we can see the fast changes happening. Walls have stories. The graffiti is the lettering of my name, and you can actually still see some of the first one I did one year and a half ago. I drew the ogre inside it before people told me the tale that goes with it. Now it represents the Khmer folk tale about the ogre who ate the moon because he loved her so much, and that’s what created eclipses. So that’s why I added the moon to the design. I have Khmer parents but grew up in Canada, so street art allows me to know more about my culture as I enter a dialogue with the people around me.”

FONKI NOBAD “I’m working with overlapping stencils, in different layers of colors. To create the contrast, I go from the lighter colours to the darkest. The male character is in a contemplative position, and I want people to ask themselves: “What is he thinking about?”. My work has a message: the fact that it’s close to the old lake isn’t a coincidence - I want people to think about what happened here. The Apsara dancer is here because she’s beautiful and I want to highlight Cambodian culture.”

PEAP TARR, FONKI & TONES

BOEUNG KAK LAKESIDE

This piece shows the recent collaboration of three Cambodian street artists, Peap Tarr, Fonki and Tones. This artwork shows how much those artists, who grew up abroad, digested their cultural heritage to deliver a soulful and modern piece mixing pure tradition and personal style. The snake entwined in the artwork also shows an evolution in Peap’s work; he recently started to apply a different approach to line painting, using a weaving pattern he came up with for a job in Thailand. Peap: “It was a really nice collaboration, playing around with the wall and deciding who paints where. I added my artwork at the end. It’s a snake running through the wall linking the different pieces together. It can be the Naga or the Taniwha, which is a legendary snake considered as a guardian in Maori mythology. People from New Zealand also wear its symbol around their neck, and anywhere they are in the world it should guide them home safely.” Tones: “I find my inspiration in the style that came out of New York in the mid 70s early 80s, originally found on the side of the trains. This is the true old school, the roots of graffiti, and the backbone of my work. But I twist this influence by adding my Cambodian culture and my daily life. I am a technician of the letter: I respect the established code but I modernize it. This piece is my name: Tones. The “T” dances more and is linked to the other letters, finding a certain flow. Graffiti is like a common language with different dialects. When I was painting, some kids were going out of a nearby school, so I decided to integrate a schoolboy to the painting.”

FONKI

PEAP TARR

TONES ©Bow Photography

Also find artworks by: SHERYO at Doors

Also find artworks by: VENK, YOBS & DIME

SETH

©Bow Photography

LISA MAM, PEAP TARR & SETH Peap: “We had a great time doing this one. It was a very collaborative work with Lisa and French artist Seth: everybody was bouncing off each other. Seth wanted to show the different aspects of Cambodian culture and paint a lot of different characters during his stay. He had a really genuine interest in Cambodian society. He drew the girl lying down. Lisa Mam painted both ends of the artwork and then I wrapped the Naga all around.” Lisa: “I painted the female angel that the kid is listening to. I want to empower

women through my art, and I use the leaf and crown to represent that. I use a lot of Cambodian patterns that I mix with street elements. When we work in the street I like to paint profiles - my work in the street and my canvas is very different. In the street you have to be fast. Seth told me I should draw the heart of the girl, so I added it afterwards. I also decided to add a necklace and put some make up on this beautiful and quiet girl sleeping.” Peap: “At some point kids joined us and started painting next to us. It’s good for us to inspire them in a way.”

Also find artworks by: PEAP TARR & LISA MAM at Slur Bar

HERB CAFE THEO VALLIER & CHIFUMI Chifumi: “This piece combines social, architectural and cultural contexts. I always work with the culture around me – I don’t just come here and do my own stuff. We used a computer to develop the design, and then when it was finished we used a projector to project it on the wall and traced over it. Hands are my logotype. I see them as an ancient thing, a language - handprints were the first things humans ever painted.”

SKATEISTAN WALL CHIFUMI Chifumi: “This is from my series “Apsara Composition”, where I use Khmer cultural background of Apsara dance and ornamental decoration from the old temples. Usually I paint these murals in the streets because I’m experimenting with the dynamic of dance pictures in living places and trying to understand what resonance it can have with the neighbourhood. When I see how fast Cambodian kids learn techniques from other cultures, I can’t help thinking how good they are at appropriating things to use with their deep cultural identity. For me, painting Apsara hands as street art now is speaking of the actual Cambodian society sliding between tradition and modernity.”

Théo : “It’s a mix of cultures, ours as French people, and the one of the country we live in. My goal was to work around Cambodian traditional imagery with modernity. For this piece I did the Naga, as a response to the Nagas in Wat Langka, the temple across the street. My idea was to work on an artwork integrated in a context that would speak to Cambodian people.”

©Chifumi

NEAR THE MALAYSIAN EMBASSY VENK & FONKI Venk: “The idea that day was just to have a little jam – it’s great when people get together in an area to paint together. I wasn’t even going to paint anything that day but the local chief was harassing us so I did his portrait. It’s a caricature, making him look desperate – so pathetic and sad. He’s in military fatigues and has a Venk necklace as bling – it’s my tag. At first there was going to be money floating down but I didn’t have any green paint. ”

Fonki: “Instead of bubble letters or names I often drop a face. It’s a Khmer smile. It’s from a picture of myself. It’s a universal smile as there are no eyes – Cambodia is a land of smiles, beginning with King Jayavarman VII. People have their own interpretation – someone asked if it was Obama! I’m planning to do more work in that area with Khmer writing – a text saying peace love and unity.”

BROKEN FINGAZ

VENK (BOTTOM) FONKI (TOP) LISA MAM & PEAP TARR Also find artworks by: YOBS, DIME & CHIFUMI

street

PHOTO: EVE WATLING

offthehook THE SIEM REAP SKATEPARK WITH BIG AMBITIONS

un Tang stands in his skatepark as a few kids zip around the ramps, shouts and laughter echoing round the clean but basic hall. Although the park is simple, Hun has seen how its construction was a big step for Siem Reap’s skatekids. “When I was in high school I saw someone inline skating on TV and became fascinated by it”, he tells me. “I drove all the way from Siem Reap to Poipet on my motorbike just to buy some rollerblades. I started this park a year ago, but I want to make it as nice as international parks”. Yet the park – and the skate scene – is set to explode far beyond any of Hun’s original expectations. In his bid to polish up his park, Hun contacted English

EVE WATLING artist, photographer and ex-speed skater Tori Green to commission some wallwork. “At the moment, the skate scene here is still small”, Tori tells me. “The roads here are so bad it’s difficult for the kids to skate anywhere. It reminds me of England in the 1970s when they put in new roads and skating boomed. There are many similarities here: it’s a post-war era where people become more confident and youth culture starts to take off. That’s why this project is so important: we want to provide a space, place, skills and mentorship to these kids”. As soon as Tori saw the potential that the space had, she and Hun put their heads together to make the park into something

that could provide local kids with skating training and mentorship and a chance to go international with their skills. She shows me the loft space overlooking the park, which right now is bare and dusty. “This will be the hub where we run workshops on photography, film, sound engineering, DJing, wall art, hip hop dance and body popping. Pro-skaters will come in and teach and mentor the kids”, she tells me with a grin. “We’ll try and use as much recycled material as possible to build it. The kids will be involved with the design – it is their space after all”. In the park below, huge murals will provide the backdrop for the young skaters. The free walls for the kids will be interspersed with sponsored walls, where a company pays for a hand painted wall art advert by the skate kids, overseen by a professional artist. The revenue that’s generated through this will help fund the project. It doesn’t stop there. Alongside regular events and rollerdiscos, Skatefest 2015 is tentatively pencilled in, in order to truly bring international exposure to Cambodia’s skating talents. Out in the back of the park, a climbing wall is to be installed, and a small skate bowl for tricks will fill the natural indentation in the grass. Another potential development will be the construction of an echo dome-cum-smoothie hut to ensure that local kids have access to healthy drink options.

PHOTO: greenbyname.com

it’s a post-war era where people BECOME more confident and youth culture starts to take off

At the moment the plans are being funded by private individuals, but the soft opening launch at the end of March, powered with the help of Hand in HeART Foundation, PP Skateshop and NGO Skateistan, also sees the beginning of the drive for donations – whether they be cash, furniture, time or skills – in order to realise the skatepark’s full potential. For 23 year old skater John, a Siem Reap native, the plans can’t happen quickly enough. “I’m so excited!”, he tells me, “I really want to be a professional skater. Usually I skate on the street but one time I was hit by a car so it’s always scary. I can’t wait to learn tricks from the mentors.” If everything goes ahead, it seems like it won’t be long before Siem Reap becomes Cambodia’s newest skating hotspot.

where? • Siem Reap Sk8 Park 111 Thmor Meas, Siem Reap. • Opening times are currently from 7am-11am and 2pm-6pm. Inline skate hire starts at 2000 riel. Skateboards for hire and sale and inline skates for sale are coming soon. • Email handinheartproject@gmail.com to donate, help out or learn more.

try out

TALES OF A

YOGAVIRGIN

BEER & BURGER LOVER AND WHAT’S UP CONTRIBUTOR C.M. GRIFFIN DECIDED TO DRAG HIS AMERICAN ASS TO SOME ALTERNATIVE YOGA CLASSES. THE RESULT IS…INTERESTING

C.M. GRIFFIN EVE WATLING Let’s get one thing straight: I am not a yoga dude. Don’t ask me to distinguish between Chandrasana or Mudrasana or any other asana because, to be honest, I don’t know what any of them mean myself. But despite my lack of expertise, I set off to three different studios in Phnom Penh to try three very different styles of yoga.

THE BREATH OF FIRE: Kundalini Yoga at the Kundalini Yoga House Kundalini is all about, well, Kundalini. That’s pelvic energy to the uninitiated. It’s a feminine energy, which is somewhat ironic given that it’s often described as a ‘coiled serpent at the base of the spine’ ready to be awakened. As you can imagine, awakening that serpent requires a special kind of breath. This type of breathing, which practitioners call ‘breath of fire’, consists of rapidly forcing short bursts of air through the nose. The thought of all of that quick breathing and pelvic work prompted me to stop off for a pork and rice breakfast before heading to class. Perhaps not the best choice of eats, but filling the belly was a good idea considering the workout to come. Despite the idea of Kundalini and the breath work associated with it, the early part of the class was pretty chill. We did a lot of relaxation poses and focusing on the naval. No, not actually looking at the belly button, but thinking a lot about it. There was also a fair share of lying around “breathing into” this and that: “Breath into your shoulder,” I was instructed at one point. It was all so, well . . . yoga — at least at the beginning. But then the hammer dropped, and we started doing just the kind of core exercises that make me avoid the gym. Get into plank. (If you don’t know what that is, look it up in any fitness mag).

Stay there for one minute while doing breath of fire. Relax and repeat. This routine kept going until I was about one second away from collapsing onto my mat. Then, if you can believe it, we moved into more punishing poses. Fortunately, at the end of that gut-buster session, my instructor mercifully told us it was time for an extended Savasana (yoga-ese for “lie on your back and try not to fall asleep”). I was drained when I left. What I thought was going to be a class of lying around and naval dreaming turned out to be a wholly physically and mentally demanding experience. The self-satisfaction that my uncoiled serpent gave me by the end of class made me feel like I’d definitely earned a cold brew—though I opted for a nap instead.

BUT THEN THE HAMMER DROPPED, AND WE STARTED DOING JUST THE KIND OF CORE EXERCISES THAT MAKE ME AVOID THE GYM

to give you an idea of what’s in store, just imagine this: from plank, look out at a spot, and keep your focus there as you throw your legs forward between your arms and land in a cross-legged sitting pose. Yep. Nailed it. Not. Almost broke my leg is more like it.

THE LEG-SNAPPER: Ashtanga at Natara j Yoga Studio Ashtanga is all about the levels. Each of the 6 levels has a certain sequence of poses to follow every time. The idea is to find mental equanimity and perhaps spiritual fulfillment in perfecting, or trying to perfect, those poses, which get increasingly challenging with each level. (Just check out some videos of level-5 classes). Most people are somewhere between levels 1 and 3, there are a few yogarific near-masters on level 4 or even 5,and legend has it that the only dude who could do level 6 is dead now, so the spot’s available.

Ashtanga is for those who aren’t afraid to work. This style is challenging and rigorous, and always working through a specific series offers the chance, however remote, of perfecting and finding peace through those poses. There’s also the opportunity to be the only level-6 person on the planet. How cool would that be? Me, I am out of the running. And while I didn’t find enlightenment, I did enjoy the hell out of my end-of-session nap, Savasana—and then I did treat myself to that much-deserved beer.

The class I sampled began with some pretty simple stuff but quickly transformed into repeated flows (where you move through a series of positions pretty darn fast) and hard-core poses. Most of these flow sequences and poses defy explanation here, but

LEGEND HAS IT THAT THE ONLY DUDE WHO COULD DO LEVEL 6 IS DEAD NOW, SO THE SPOT’S AVAILABLE 27

THE ACROBATIC: Fly Yoga at Yoga! Phnom Penh Fly yoga uses straps hanging from the ceiling - think bondage - to get students deeper into poses. The straps take some of the burden off muscles that are usually straining to hold a pose, so students can really focus on form, on getting the posture correct. The class I went to moved slowly because the instructor, Alison, had to demonstrate how to use the straps with each of the sequences or poses. The slower pace was good for me, and the straps did help me really dig into some of the poses. The only danger for me was the backbends, where I was supposed to hang like a limp licorice stick with only my lower back supported by the straps. I passed on that one. I probably need more of those Kundalini corebuster classes before I’ll be able to accomplish that. But I did have fun with the inversions, just hanging out upside down and letting the blood rush to my noggin even though I probably looked like an outof-shape, poorly trained Cirque du Soleil performer. Fly yoga is the kind of stuff that you need to have some yoga experience for (even if it’s only a little) because you should have a sense of some basic poses; you should know how to “listen to your body,” which is yoga-speak for “don’t be an idiot.” If you’ve got that covered, you can really feel the difference between your normal practice and what the straps help you do.

Conclusion: ME, I WON’T BE HEADING TO TOO MANY YOGA CLASSES IN THE FUTURE. I REALIZED IT’S TOO MUCH WORK FOR MY DELICATE CONSTITUTION. I PREFER A NICE, STRAIGHTFORWARD WORKOUT THAT ENDS WITH 550 ML CURLS AT SOME JOINT ON RIVERSIDE. BUT FOR THOSE THAT DO WANT A MORE COMPLEX MIX OF PHYSICAL, MENTAL, AND SPIRITUAL, PHNOM PENH CERTAINLY HAS SOME GOOD OFFERINGS.

AN I PROBABLY LOOKED LIKE INED TRA RLY POO PE, -SHA OUT-OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL PERFORMER

where? • Kundalini Yoga: #91D, Street 454. Phone: 092 429 835 • Natara j Yoga: #52, Street 302. Phone: 012 250 817 • Yoga! Phnom Penh: #39, Street 21. Phone: 012 739 4190 facebook.com/yoga.phnompenh

A h b A i l d

TI R

“A great sunset bar & restaurant”

A fishermans house on the beach serving Asian and international lunches and dinners.

Open GD\V ZHHN DP SP Happy Hour 0RQ 7KX SP SP Wednesdays /LYH PXVLF SP SP Fridays +DSS\ KRXU DOO QLJKW ORQJ Saturdays %HDFK %%4 SP SP Sundays %UXQFK DP SP

ACTIVITIES 6ZLPPLQJ 9ROOH\EDOO 3LQJSRQJ 3HWDQTXH 3RRO

RENTALS 6DLOLQJ %LF\FOHV 0RWRUELNHV

TIP: Book your lunch or dinner well in advance to secure your best waterfront table. Reservations: +855(0)78 333 686, fbm@knaibangchatt.com www.knaibangchatt.com

Kep’s signature restaurant

Chef Janine, our South-African 5-star Executive Chef, and her Cambodian team fuse international and local ﬂavors to lift your senses and invoke a sense of adventure. Open 7 days, Noon-10pm. The Strand, at Knai Bang Chatt resort (next to Sailing Club, 300 meters from the crab market). Dress code: smart casual. Reservations: +855 (0)78 333 686, fbm@knaibangchatt.com

in conversation

: N O I T A S R E V N IN CO Photo Journalism

PIERRE RABOTIN NICK SELLS / KAMPUCHEA PARTY REPUBLIC POST-ELECTIONS RALLIES, GARMENT WORKERS’ PROTESTS, GENERAL STRIKES: THESE PAST FEW MONTHS HAVE SEEN SOME HEAVY POLITICAL EVENTS HAPPENING IN CAMBODIA. IN ORDER TO DOCUMENT THEM, JOURNALISTS DIVED INTO THE FRAY, BRINGING BACK INFORMATION AND PICTURES FROM THE FRONTLINE. WE GOT TOGETHER FIVE PHOTO REPORTERS WORKING IN THE KINGDOM AT SO SHOOT ME STUDIO TO TALK ABOUT HOW ESSENTIAL THEIR WORK IS. HOW DO THEY REPORT THE TRUTH IN A COUNTRY WHERE GETTING ACCESS TO INFORMATION ISN’T ALWAYS AN EASY RIDE? HOW FAR TO GO TO PROVIDE STRONG VISUALS WHEN DOING YOUR WORK CAN COMPROMISE YOUR SAFETY? HOW MUCH CAN WE RELY ON A PICTURE TO SPEAK THE TRUTH? FIND OUT IN THE LATEST FASCINATING EPISODE OF ‘IN CONVERSATION’.

Seeing everything that’s happened in the country during the last six months, how hard is it not to take sides, especially when you report clashes between protestors and police? Luc Forsyth: People can think that the media are pro-opposition, but the truth is that we don’t get credentials to access the other side. It’s really difficult to give a balanced perspective in that context. Lauren Crothers: During the November crackdown in Stung Menchey, I happened to end up in the middle of both the police and the protesters. So even if it was quite dangerous, picture wise I was able to present both sides. But it’s not only about showcasing one side instead of the other,

there is a safety issue hanging in the balance as well. Rick Valenzuela: Plus we’re not bringing back only one picture. Most of the journalists are aiming for a 3 shot essay. If you’re doing a video you will get two or three different situations to cut into one package which gives you more perspective. Thomas Cristofoletti: Unfortunately it also depends on what the newspaper or magazine wants… Luc: Exactly. I recently included pictures of the two police officers who were hurt during the protest and they weren’t interested at all when I submitted them.

Thomas Cristofoletti

You could have all the messages and information you want in a photo but if nobody wants to look at it, it doesn’t do

Freelance photographer and videographer. He’s a member of the Ruom Collective, a collective of journalists specializing in social reportage throughout Southeast Asia.

Lauren Crothers Writer and photographer for The Cambodia Daily. She’s been in Cambodia for three and half years.

any good. Sam Jam You obviously are trying to take ‘good’, visually interesting pictures. Does this go against the imperative to provide factual information? Sam Jam: I work a little bit more editorially with in-depth and personal stories for magazines. I don’t cover the protests as much as everyone else here. Of course I try to make the pictures as visually appealing as possible but still in those cases what we do is capturing what’s happening. I absolutely don’t change the story. Luc: You could have all the messages and information you want in a photo but if nobody wants to look at it, it doesn’t do any good. People have to want to look at it Lauren: Sometimes the message isn’t picked up at all. But when you’re documenting events, the bottom line is to be true to what’s going on. The fact that the picture is a good shot doesn’t go against the information presented in it. The only thing that goes against information is to add or remove something from a photo, which is ethically wrong.

Freelance editorial and commercial photographer from Australia. He arrived in Cambodia 3 years ago.

Luc Forsyth Canadian freelance photographer specialising in documentary. He’s also part of the Ruom Collective.

Rick Valenzuela Freelance broadcaster from the United States.

Does the fact that you stand with a camera in the middle of what’s happening impact the situation you try to document? Luc: Trying to catch the total truth of a moment is quite hard cause you’re standing at a specific place with specific people and will see only one side of what’s happening depending on where you were, but as long as you’re not misleading people… Lauren: It’s difficult because as you are physically there, you are a part of the situation. It’s hard to be visible and at the same time being this entity trying to simply show what’s going on. Luc: Also people have an idea of what they think you want to see, and during the crackdown they would stop loading injured people on motorbikes because they wanted me to take their picture. Lauren: You want the situation to be as candid as possible. Sometimes you have to stand and wait for something natural to happen because if it looks too forced, the story loses its meaning. Sam, your work got recently published under the title ‘Partying with One of Myanmar’s Largest Rebel Armies’ for Vice.com. In this case you were fully part of what was going on... Sam: Yes, the access there was quite difficult as the Thai army was stopping everyone at the border and we had to sneak past the check points. The rebels are quite secluded and for sure we were a bit of a novelty. These soldiers make $10 a month, and the night we were there they were given free rice wine - that’s why they were partying. We happened to be there, we partied with them but once again I didn’t change the situation. I was surprised myself by what was going on, but that’s what went down.

Today everybody has cellphones and cameras. People will take pictures as soon as something happens and post them online even faster than you guys. Is it a problem for photo journalists? Luc: it’s not about the camera; it’s about the person using it. For example, Michael Christopher Brown who was covering the Arab Spring in Libya broke his camera and took all the pictures with his iPhone. One of the photos became the front page of Time Magazine. Lauren: It can be a problem physically because it’s harder to do your job when there is a crowd between you and the event, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. We should celebrate that lots of people are trying to document what’s going on and posting it on Facebook, which is such an important tool. Do you draw a line with what you show in a photo? Thomas: We did a story on sugar called ‘Blood Sugar’ involving child labour; we decided not to show the faces of the kids for their safety.

It’s hard to sell Cambodian stories to international publications

Rick: I was editing pictures for Phnom Penh Post when the stampede in Koh Pich happened during the 2010 water festival - more than 350 people died during this tragic accident. There were a lot of pictures of dead bodies that we wouldn’t have used. Is it difficult to work in Cambodia? Luc: Certain places have more international interest. It’s hard to find a market for Cambodian stories. Sam: Adventure type stories happening in the jungle always work pretty well. Thomas: Finding good and authentic stories is hard and after it’s not easy to sell them. When we first did our story “blood sugar” we couldn’t sell it but now it’s selling everywhere. Magazines find interest when big international firms are involved. If you manage to find an international angle, it’s much easier to sell the story.

hypemaker events

HYPEMAKER WHAT WE’RE EXCITED ABOUT THIS APRIL

BEATS AGAINST CORRUPTION Transparency International Cambodia has teamed up with Meta House to bring us a stellar line up to highlight the problem of corruption. “By organising a club night around it we are not making light of this” organisers say. “Music and dance help to bring people together and break down social boundaries... Beats against Corruption seeks to unite people from diverse backgrounds, ages, nationalities, religions and belief systems.” Performers include the acclaimed spoken word poet Kosal Khiev, DJs Bboy Peanut and Simon C Vent, and the DJ / live guitar duo Java & Stitch. Friday, 4th April – 8pm Meta House, Phnom Penh

CHHNANG! In a bid to promote Cambodia’s traditions, CLA’s gallery is now exploring the tradition of pottery making in Kampong Chhnang province (chhnang means pot in Khmer). The exhibition not only shows the process of making a traditional pot, but also innovations to adapt to today’s society. Expect to see ingeniously improved objects to appeal to an extended market, and natural water filters for countryside inhabitants. Opening on 30th April at 6pm at the CLA gallery, 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh

CINECLUB: LY POLEN Hot young Cambodian director Ly Polen will be screening 5 of his short films, as well as hosting a discussion about them afterwards in this special Cineclub. Winner of Best Film at Chaktomuk Festival 2013 and winner of second Prize at the recent Tropfest South East Asia 2014 in Malaysia, Polen is one to watch. A great chance to learn about, and engage with, a local filmmaking talent. Saturday, April 5th, 2pm Bophana Centre

PHNOM AURAL & ARENG VALLEY TREK Areng Valley is one of Cambodia’s most beautiful, untouched nature reserves – but at this very moment bulldozers are moving in and it’s facing extinction from a proposed dam project that will submerge the area entirely (see What’s Up #19 for more details). This trek isn’t only a blissful Khmer New Year’s escape into the wilderness, but also a chance to prove that destruction isn’t the only option: local livelihoods can be made through sustainable ecotourism. The trek will begin at Phnom Aural mountain, another endangered natural beauty spot. Trekkers will spend a few days climbing the small mountain, and will get their own tree blessed by a monk in a bid to prevent illegal logging. After, the trekkers will move to Areng Valley, accompanied by monks, to do a trek lasting between 4 to 7 days depending on their availability and fitness levels. The trek includes stops at magnificent waterfalls and ancient burial sites: if the dam goes ahead, it might be the last chance to experience one of the last strongholds of Cambodia’s natural world. The trek takes place between the 12th April – 20st April, but a personalised schedule can be arranged depending on interests, availability and fitness levels. Email jonasdeschrijver@gmail.com

KHMER NEW YEAR We had Western New Year and Chinese New Year - now it’s finally time for Khmers to get in on the act. Also known as Chaul Chnam Thmey (literally “Enter New Year” in Khmer) the first day is often dedicated to cleaning the house and preparing food, the second day is spent making merit and playing games, while the last day is for sprinkling water as a cleansing blessing. Expect much to be closed, and enjoy your holiday! 14th, 15th and 16th April, Across Cambodia

A photography and video studio in the heart of Phnom Penh

WILD WAVE WAVES

IN MOTION

BEARHANDED

#1, STREET 21 (INSIDE THE WILLOW BOUTIQUE HOTEL), PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA

TEL: +855 93 700 431 WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BEARHANDED

Photographer: ZEESHAN HAIDER Hair: VAUGHAN JOSEPH at BEARHANDED HAIR STUDIO Model: SOTHY SITH Make-up: BRIANNE CHAPPELL Styling: JEMMA GALVIN Photo Support: KIP RADT Studio: SO SHOOT ME STUDIO

LE ROYAL CULINARY JOURNEY WITH MICHELIN STAR CHEF HANS ZAHNER From Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris Michelin Star Chef Hans Zahner will take us for a week long gastronomical experience sharing his expertise in creating delightful dishes using the finest ingredients. Chef Hans brings to Phnom Penh the new menu from ‘La Cuisine’ of Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris’, a Michelin- starred restaurant. Hans’ food creation brings a sophisticated yet authentic taste traditional French cuisine with his signature touches. 22, 23, 24 and 25 - April LUNCH - 12.00 pm – 2.30pm US$ 28 - per person / 3 course set menu ‘La Cuisine’ signature dishes are also available a la carte. 21, 22, 23, 24 and 26 - April DINNER - 6.30pm -10.30pm US$ 55 – per person / 5 course set menu US$ 95 – per person / 5 course set menu, inclusive of wine pairing ‘La Cuisine’ signature dishes are also available a la carte. 25 - April GALA WINE DINNER - 7.00pm onwards US$ 120 – per person / 5 course set menu, inclusive of wine pairing 26 - April ROYAL LOBBY BRUNCH - 12.00pm – 3.00pm US$ 55 - inclusive of a glass of Paris Sling US$ 75 - inclusive of unlimited Signature wines and Paris Slings US$ 85 - inclusive of unlimited G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Champagne, Signature wines and Paris Slings

www.raffles.com/phnompenh

Prices are subject to service charge and applicable government taxes. For reservations, please call: +855 23 981 888 or email us, dining.leroyal@raffles.com

highlight & gloss

CONSIDERING

THE COCONUT ANNA MISCHKE JACK MALIPAN LOOKING GOOD, FEELING GOOD, AND DOING GOOD ALL AT ONCE? THAT PIECE OF CHOCOLATE CAKE, SHOT OF TEQUILA, OR CORSET DRESS MAY TELL YOU DIFFERENTLYBUT IT’S POSSIBLE!

’ve been a huge fan of coconut oil for quite some years now, and since it is so readily available in Cambodia my obsession has only increased. It’s adored by countless models, celebrities, and health buffs for its bevy of perks - coconut oil has been classified as a “super food” containing vitamins, antioxidants, and minerals boosting the body in numerous ways. So what are a few these benefits? Coconut oil contains Medium Chain Triglycerides, fatty acids of medium length that

go straight from the liver to the digestive tract acting as a quick source of energy that lasts longer than a can of Red Bull. Coconut oil also contains high amounts of Lauric acid which kills bacteria, viruses, and various fungi - great used as a mouthwash here in Cambodia; you never know what illness you’re going to pick up this month. Rather than reaching for the Pepto or Cipro, try a dose of coconut oil! It’s also wonderful for the weight conscious. According to recent studies, forty women with abdominal obesity who added one ounce of coconut oil to their diet per day experienced a reduction in body mass index and waist circumference within a period of twelve weeks, while 20 obese men adding one ounce of coconut oil reduced their waist circumference of 2.86 centimetres after four weeks. We won’t even get into the cooking possibilities with this wonder oil (it has a very high resistance to heat withstanding up to 170 degrees Fahrenheit without burning and metabolizes quickly).

$12.50 $

Not only is coconut oil bangin’ for your bod on the inside, it’s incredible for the outside too. Used as a makeup remover, beard softener, body and facial moisturizer, bath oil, hair conditioner, and all around beauty treatment- the natural oil gently removes impurities and makeup without scrubbing or using harsh chemicals, and all while moisturizing. It may feel a bit greasy at first (it is an oil…), but quickly absorbs into the skin leaving a tropical scent that might make you just take a sip of the stuff after your done slathering it on your dry skin (and you can!). Another bonus? A dab on the brow bone or cheek bones imparts a dewy look that’s perfect for a day at the pool or when your skin is feeling extra parched.

ffor 500ml

COCO KHMER While there are plenty of coconut oils on the market - many brands, even the high end, are “cut” with other types of oil or are refined to the point it loses much of its health benefits. Enter: Coco Khmer. Launched in 2013, Coco Khmer is locally produced in the area that once was Boeung Kak Lake that manufactures coconutbased products through a chain of group support, proper training, and fair wages. Through the project they aim to create a strong brand that upholds and celebrates hard work with a sustainable future while maintaining honour and culturally relevant ideas, materials, and resources. Coco Khmer uses high quality virgin coconut oil to create products like body scrubs (my favourite being the Citrus Sea Breeze), lip balms, soaps, and of course- simple yet delightful bottles of coconut oil. The prices are so affordable too that it’s likely you’ll end up leaving with one of everything! Rather than browsing your local supermarket for a body lotion that’s bound to have “Brightening” “Whitening” or “Lightening” on it to soothe dry skin, opt for a more natural and effective choice and go with coconut oil - your body will thank you.

$7.50 for 200ml

where? YOU CAN FIND Coco Khmer AT: • SoulTEA’se Cafe, no. 55e, st. 240, Phnom Penh • The Flicks 1. #39b St.95 • ARTillery St. 2401/2 • Digby’s Grocer & Cafe St. 63 & St. 306 • Jum Cafe #52 St.113 across from Toul Sleng Museum • Cambodia Creations #116 St.113 Kampot • Golden Hands Massage & Spa No. 5, St. 724, Kampot • OM Cafe Old Market, St. 38, Kampot • Banteay Srey Women’s Spa 33 Tuek Chhu Road, Kampot

HEALTH

FEEL GOOD FOOD JUICE B

DIY Health:

t’s not always easy to find a fresh fruit shake totally free of any added sugar, condensed milk or flavourings (not to mention a sneaky shot of durian). Juice Bar on Sivatha road is run by the delightful Huang Rong, who will prepare you the perfect shake for as little as $1. She also sells her uncle’s range of dried mangoes, which are also free of any additives or preservatives. Sivatha Road, Siem Reap

al & e m t a o g n i h t Soo sk a m e c a f y e n o h

OATMEAL IS GREAT FOR CALMING IRRITATED SKIN, AND THE HONEY NOURISHES WHILE REMOVING BACTERIA FROM THE SKIN THAT CAN LEAD TO BREAKOUTS. ALL INGREDIENTS CAN BE FOUND IN LUCKY SUPERMARKET.

INGREDIENTS 1/4 cup plain oatmeal 1/4 cup water or milk 2 teaspoons honey METHOD Blend the oatmeal into a powder. Mix with the water and honey. Make sure the mixture is a gooey texture. Apply the mask to your clean, dry face and leave for 10-15 minutes – make sure you

don’t fall asleep unless you want to attract every ant in Phnom Penh to snack on your face. Rinse off and pat your face dry. Optional: Add a squeeze of lemon for a stronger cleanse. Banana, yoghurt or avocado can also be added to the mix for extra skin nourishment.

STREET SNACK ASSESSED

: SUGARCANE JUICE SUGARCANE IS A CONFUSING DRINK – YES, ITS FRESH JUICE, BUT IT’S ALSO PURE SUGAR – SO DOES THAT MEAN IT’S HEALTHY OR NOT? WHAT’S UP INVESTIGATES.

THE BREAKDOWN: Calories (100g serving): approximately 84 calories, with 100 percent of the calories provided exclusively by carbohydrates. Sugarcane juice does not contain fat or cholesterol. It contains: calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium and phosphorous – although some at very low levels. It also contains iron and vitamins A, C, B1, B2, B3, B5, and B6, along with high concentration of phytonutrients, antioxidants, proteins and soluble fiber. Sugars: Cane juice contains no simple sugars; when consumed, it doesn’t cause a sharp spike in circulating glucose levels, so it can be enjoyed by diabetics without any health worries. This also helps people in losing weight.

CAN HELP: Urinary tract infections, jaundice, hydration during fevers, some symptoms of sexually transmitted diseases, kidney stones and prostatitis. Cane juice also promotes proper kidney function and acts as a good digestive aid due to the fairly high levels of potassium.

OVERALL HEALTH RATING: Although fairly rich in calories, sugarcane juice is your best and healthiest option when a sugar craving hits.

Cambodians knew it first: crickets are super healthy

new fad is taking America’s health world by storm: Exo energy bars are using cricket flour in order to normalise the consumption of insects in the west. Exo hope this will minimise dependence on protein sources with high carbon emissions: “crickets are 20x more efficient as a source of protein than cattle”, they say. These are certainly classy crickets: they’re fed a diet of certified organic grain before being ground into flour and sprinkled into the cacao nut, PB&J and cashew ginger flavoured bars. Each bar con-

tains around 40 crickets, although that only partially explains why a 12-pack box will put you back a heart-stopping $36. Luckily for us, we can hit the nearest market for our crunchy insect fix for a fraction of the price. Now you know how awesome they are, why not get creative and sprinkle them on a salad, or blend them up into a mango-cricket smoothie...? www.exo.co

wine & food

Wine & Food “MATCH OF THE MONTH”

DISCOVER OUR MONTHLY FEATURE ON HOW TO PAIR WINE AND FOOD. TWO WINES AND TWO RECIPES BY ONE CHEF FROM AN EXCITING RESTAURANT TO MAKE SURE YOU BECOME THE BEST HOST IN THE CITY. THIS MONTH, ENJOY TWO RECIPES FROM KNAI BANG CHATT IN KEP

Passion fruit Panna Cotta with Passion fruit puree, lime sorbet, coconut meringue & fresh mint INGREDIENTS • 500 ml cream • 50ml prepared passion fruit coulis (5 passion fruits and 100g sugar) • 1 Vanilla pod • 2 leaves of gelatin

PREPARATION

Dulzino Moscato by Vina Maipo WHY THEY MATCH PERFECTLY Dulzino has tender fruity notes, low alcohol, and a clean, lightbodied mouthfeel. This wine is subtle enough to avoid overpowering the delicacy of the cream in the panna cotta, but its clear notes of earth and strawberry resonate deeply with the gently acidic fruitiness of the fruit sorbet and puree.

Soak gelatin leaves in ice water. Heat cream, coulis and scraped vanilla pod. Drain ice water from gelatin and add to o cream mixture. Stir until all gelatin particles are dissolved and strain. Leave to cool and then fill serving glasses or bowls. For serving, cover passion fruit with coulis, crumble the meringue, sliced mint leaves, sliced passion fruit and lime sorbet and crisp fried sliced beet root on top.

Pan seared snapper with grilled long eggplant, water spinach, tomato & green peppercorn compote INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

• • • • •

Mix together all ingredients except tomatoes. Place all items in a pan. Slowly heat up all items to infuse flavors. Cook for about 10 min and then add the tomatoes and remove from the heat and cool down. Season fish fillet with salt, pepper, and fresh lemon. Pan fry fillet in oil, remove from the pan, drizzle with butter and more lemon and place under salamander or oven to cook. Don’t cook at a high temperature as fish will dry out. Grill lightly seasoned eggplant, add spinach leaves and grilled fish. Top with tomato pepper compote.

180g Snapper fillet 1/2 long eggplant hand full of spinach oil for frying olive oil

COMPOTE • 4 Cherry tomatoes • 4 Black pitted Kalamata Olives • Fresh thyme • Fresh basil • 1 whole garlic clove • 3 caper berries • 1 tsp capers • 100ml olive oil

La Poule Blanche WHY THEY MATCH PERFECTLY The aromatic citrus notes, as well as the crispy, round opulence of La Poule Blanche will perfectly match the Snapper fillet.

knai bang chatt hotel & restaurant Knai Bang Chatt’s hotel’s flagship restaurant is one of the only high end dining experiences in Kep. Showcasing the sleepy seaside town’s fresh, plentiful seafood produce, the perfectly balanced daily menus never fail to delight the senses.

The Chef: janine fouri Chef Janine Fouri’s outstanding and imaginative cooking has been recognised by numerous awards, including one from Condé Naste Traveller. Having trained along Michelin starred chefs, she now works with her Cambodian team to expertly fuse local and international flavours. Phum Thmey Sangkat Prey Thom, Kep 078 888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com

These wines i are exclsively distributed by celliers d’Asie and available everywhere in Cambodia Siem Reap Sihanouk, Kep & Kampot Battambang (855) 63 964 409 (855) 34 934 155 (855) 53 953 855

Phnom Penh Pe (855) 23 986 350

snack

COOLMEDOWN EVE WATLING

ICE C

If you’re feeling classy, try the Almond Macaroon with Passion fruit sorbet from the Blue Pumpkin ($3.25)

HOT SEASON IS UPON US, FUGGING UP CAMBODIA IN A SHIMMERING HAZE. THE AIR CON IS BLASTING, YOU’RE IN THE OFFICE IN SHORT SHORTS, SHOWERS ARE ICY AND YET YOU’RE STILL AS SLOW AND SWEATY AS A FURRY SLUG. LOOKS LIKE THERE’S ONLY ONE WAY TO COOL DOWN – EAT COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF ICE CREAM. LUCKILY FOR YOU, WHAT’S UP HAS CONDUCTED SOME SERIOUS INVESTIGATIVE JOURNALISM IN ORDER TO DISCOVER WHERE THE BEST FROZEN, SUGARY TREATS ARE TO BE PURCHASED. NOW WHERE DO WE COLLECT OUR PULITZER PRIZE?

The Blue Pumpkin has a sturdy blast of air-con going on, so bonus points for that. This is the first icecream test - at first I felt weird taking photos of my food, but when the girl sitting behind me started snapping her paper coffee cup with her iPhone I remembered that this is now the normal food foreplay protocol these days and carried on.

The plate looks lovely, and the passion fruit sorbet is strong and tangy. Unless there was some sort of elaborate fakery going on, the passion fruit pips inside prove that it was made from real fruit. The macaroon was crisp on the outside and gooey in the middle, and its gentle taste perfectly complimented the sorbet. The wafer cup gave the plate a decent crunch, and although the chocolate sauce was standard bottled stuff, overall it was a seriously satisfying ice cream experience. (Stores across Phnom Penh and Siem Reap)

2. If you’re feeling healthy, try the Frozen Yoghurt from Tutti Frutti ($0.15 for 10g)

‘Low fat! Low caloria [whatever that is]! High calcium!’ proclaim the signs in Tutti Frutti. The frozen yoghurt company is clearly aiming at the health conscious customer, and sadly you can taste that in the yoghurt. It’s certainly cooling, but joylessly so, with a thin artificial taste. I’m even doubting its health credentials – the amount of sugar they pack in this stuff must far outweigh the health benefits. Luckily, the fun factor is put back in the Tutti Frutti experience by the industrial-sized self-service yoghurt dispensing machines. ‘Er... where does the yoghurt actually come out?’ I ask the clerk as I hover uncertainly in front of the giant levers. After you wrangle the machinery, it’s time to head over to the toppings counter with your mound of yoghurt and heap on everything from strawberries, raisons, marshmallows, almonds and white chocolate. If only it was as exciting to eat the stuff... (Stores across Phnom Penh and Siem Reap)

WHERE’S THE BEST

E CREAM AT?

If you’re feeling cheap, try the street vendor lolly (1000 reils)

The flavour was unidentifiable – somewhere between jackfruit and banana. The texture was almost glutinously creamy. “It looks like a beluga whale penis on a stick” said my colleague as I brought it, drooping sadly, into the office. Not the most stylish ice-cream, but an enjoyable, cheap option. (Anywhere in Cambodia)

If you’re feeling romantic, try the vanilla ice cream love plate, at Cupcake Cafe ($1.80) The ice cream in the cutesy Cupcake Cafe is good: creamy and rich. Mixed with the melted Hubba Bubba–like strawberry sauce on the side it reminded me of childhood sweetshops and trips to the sea. The sugary hearts add to the effect - but all the nostalgia in the world can’t distract from the fact you’re effectively paying $1.80 for a single small scoop of vanilla icecream. (Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh)

If you’re feeling in need of some artisanal Khmer flavours, try the Mellow Yellow from ToTo ($4.20) A ‘ToTo signature’ dish, the Mellow Yellow consists of jackfruit sticky rice, pandan crepe, and durian ice-cream. The knockout strength of the durian and the WTF combination of ice cream and rice means that it’s not for the fainthearted – however, against the odds, it works. The sticky rice, always a versatile food, adds a satisfying squishy texture that works in a dessert.

SIEM REAP SPECIAL

THE MAGIC STICK ICE CREAM

This ice-cream is a conundrum in the guise of a dessert: it poses many questions to the bewildered snacker. Why is it shaped like that? How’s best to hold it? What on earth is it made of? By the time you get round to wondering how to start eating it, both ends are dripping melted ice cream and there’s nothing for it but to sheepishly fellate one end after the other while praying nobody is watching you. The casing turns out to be crunchy corn flour, filled with Mr Whippy ice cream all the way through its hollow centre. The photographs adorning the shop inform me that when eaten by two people each starting with one of the ends, the Magic Stick is the ice cream equivalent of the spaghetti in Lady and the Tramp. No matter how you eat it, prepare to leave your dignity at the door if you want to try the bizarrest of Siem Reap’s ice creams. (Corner of St. 8 and St. 11, Siem Reap) - 2$

The homemade ice cream is rich and creamy, so much so that one scoop feels like more than enough. In fact, this is the only dish that could legitimately be considered an actual meal: I feel faintly ashamed to be struggling through an ice-cream served in a love heartadorned, pastel blue shop that looks like a sugary sweet 14 year olds dream bedroom. It’s not the most easygoing dish – but it’s an exciting attempt at making a Khmer dessert. (Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh)

!!#%???

events music

Sailing Through The

Airwaves

RADIO SHOW SWASHBUCKLES ACROSS THE GLOBE SEAN BARRETT

s we become more deeply plugged in to all the information that has ever existed, it grows apparent how much we benefit from this process. Often overlooked, however, is what we lose. Among other things, the internet has pushed live broadcasted entertainment towards the back-burner of modern culture. Sure, live-streaming podcasts exist and we can easily subscribe to any news organization’s twitter feed, but how many people are using this ability to bring people together through music and comedy in the way that our sepia-toned ancestors did before them?

The answer is three. All of whom are based in the Kingdom’s capital city and drag ol’timey technology into this decade, twisting it to work for this day and age as well as this generation. Every day that starts with “S”, from six to seven p.m., Tonle FM’s Music World Cruise, metaphysically transforms itself into a cruise ship without corporeal limits capable of travelling the seven seas in search of the best music from all the far corners of the globe. Each show, they cruise over to a different part of the world so there’s no telling where the boat/show could end up on any given day. Once they reach shore, the crew tells the listeners where they’ve gone to and presents the finest tunes from the far off land.

MEET THE CREW

CAPTAIN

FIRST OFFICER

Mick Taylor

A salty sea dog from the shores of New Zealand. With his gregariously avuncular personality and near twenty years experience on Cambodian radio, he keeps us all safe from ghost-pirates. Though it hasn’t been all roses for our fearless leader: “I’ve fallen overboard,” he tells us. “[because of the] strong rum...and they left without me!”

An English landlubber whose duties include keeping up morale with terrible puns and occasionally being tied to the front of the vessel in order to scare away The Kraken and Chthulu. Using the same hostwith-the-most skills he brings to quiz night at Show Box, Mick is left in charge of running the trivia portion of the show. He has never once worn trousers on the air.

But, of course, they haven’t forgotten about their friends back home. Giving back to Phnom Penh’s music scene like the nice guys they are, the crew bring local bands along to play live in studio, have a chat, and promote their upcoming gigs. Among those who’ve entered this show/boat are Dub Addiction, Kosal Kiev, members of Grass Snake Union with Conrad Keely, and No Forever (acoustically, though, because metal-core would seriously rock the boat). Because of their presence on the web, this allows bands to bring their music to an international audience. As Captain TK puts it, “It’s about getting all these talented people together and giving them an avenue to express themselves.”

COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER

Vatthina Tola A young, up-and-coming spoken word artist, Thina’s main duties involve translating and finding words to rhyme with “orange”. He goes far above and beyond his call of duty by acting as a foil to his shipmates.

In between songs and jam sessions, they give more to the community with the trivia portion of the show in which contestants have the chance to win some serious prizes. Lesser prizes include backpacks and coffee mugs while the big winners can walk away with tickets to sporting events and even a $240 scholarship to ACE International School. So hop on aboard either by FM radio (102.5) or online (mixcloud.com/musicworldcruise). Their Mixcloud also has all of the previous episodes archived for your own exploration.

Reasons... EVE WATLING Phnom Penh sometimes seems like a never-ending metropolis without any nearby natural space that can truthfully declare itself free of exhaust fug and rubbish heaps. However, a 15 minute drive north of the city centre lays the underappreciated haven of Silk Island (or Koh Dach in Khmer). The island is separated from the mainland by a short ferry trip, but even this small remove means it has retained a relaxed countryside vibe. Although tourism revolves around the spectacular traditional silk weaving that the island residents have perfected over hundreds of years, its stilted houses and weird and wonderful pagodas are among the many other reasons to visit the island.

#1 The Beach OK, so Otres beach doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to worry about competition from this small sandy area at the northern tip of the island. A pristine oasis itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not, but its charms lie instead in it is relaxed atmosphere of local families and teenagers splashing around on rented rubber rings. Kick back in one of the makeshift huts that line the shore, and buy snacks from the ingenious handmade mini floating food stands, and fruit sellers wading waist-deep through the waters.

#2 The Pagodas The island is dotted with spectacular pagodas, most with traditional brightly painted murals. A few in particular stand out: one abandoned, semi-dilapidated pagoda holds a plinth of Buddhas placidly staring out through a crumbled away wall and across the waters. In the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest temple area, a fascinatingly grizzly series of statues shows a man aging, dying, being eaten by a vulture and then being reborn as a Buddha figure.

To visit Silk Island (that don’t involve silk)

The Friendly Locals

In Phnom Penh, a stranger inviting you to eat with them may incite suspicion, but Silk Island villagers aren’t interested in scamming: they’re more likely to feed you an amazing traditional meal, refuse any payment and send you on your way with a big bag of juicy mangoes.

#4 The River Stop off almost anywhere on the river to join the local kids wading through the muddy sandbanks and taking a dip in the cool currents of the Mekong, safe(ish) in the knowledge that the sewage pipes of Phnom Penh are 10km downriver.

Traditional #5 The Way of Life Buffalo roam freely, their strings of bell necklaces jangling, kicking up dust from the unsealed roads. Here, you’re more likely to see an ox and cart than a tuk tuk, and hostess bars and generic coffee shops are nowhere to be found. Silk Island is the perfect place to escape the hectic party lifestyle and take a day to slow down the pace.

AD-HALF PAGE

IST OF PLAYL ONTH THE M HAILING FROM TOKYO , SUPERCOZI IS AN INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNIZED JAPANESE ELECTRONIC MUSIC PRODUCER AND DJ. SHE STARTED PRODUCING HER OWN EXPERIMENTAL ELECTRONIC MUSIC AFTER DISCOVERING TRIP HOP, BREAK BEATS AND TECHNO IN MID 90’S AND ALSO STARTED DJING IN THE CLUBS AND PARTIES OF TOKYO, AND WILL SOON BE MAKING HER PHNOM PENH DEBUT AT THE NEXT W.I.L.D PARTY ON MAY 3RD

She moved to the UK in 2000 and formed a dance/chill unit Zen Lemonade with Gus Till. Their first album “Lemon Soul” was released on legendary London based DragonFly Records in 2002 and instantly gained critical acclaim.

1// Crossing Borders feat. Fritz Kalkbrenner (Booka’s other Mix) - Booka Shade

She moved to Bali and founded her own label ‘Hypo-Espresso Records‘ in 2005. Since then she’s built up a string of dance / chill releases under Supercozi and Zen Lemonade. As a result she’s been playing all around the globe, delivering DJ sets at many big festivals, clubs and countless parties from Moscow to Mexico, and also hosting regular radio shows.

Wobbling Indie-dance bass for early on in the night.

Nice song from the Berlin techno duo. It reminds me of David Bowie’s Heroes. I’ve loved Fritz’s voice since I heard his hit ‘Sky and Sand‘.

2// Heard It Like This - Chad Tyson Slow, chunky, naughty. Great!

3// Le Tour - Alexey Union Batuko 4// Supergirl - Hanne & Lore Who said including an organ is a-no-no for dance tunes?

5// Spanner In The Works - Stallos Let’s go a bit deeper. Tech-House!

6// Changing Steps - Gel Abril I love this kind of minimal and hypnotic Techno groove.

7// Transition - Padmasana Beautiful ambient tune for after-hours.

8// Illusion of Control – Sinepearl Just pure ambient bliss. Their album ‘Cycles Within Cycles Within’ is the best ambient album of early 2014!

MORE INFO : http://www.supercozi.com http://www.facebook.com/supercozi

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

Sok Sa Bai As Cambodia’s thirst for cocktails grows, bars are popping up everywhere selling everything from buckets of e-numbers to crisply mouth-watering elixirs. WUPP lends a hand to help you serve up a slice of the latter, for a fun cocktail-slurping night that tastes great, but doesn’t break the bank.

sok sa bai

by le moon terrace bar

ingredients: • 10ml Campari • 10ml Grapefruit Juice • 5ml Ginger Syrup • 5ml Simple Syrup • 50ml Lemon-Lemongrass Sombai • 25ml Triple Sec • 25ml Ginger of Indies Liquor

method: First pour all syrup and lemonlemongrass liquor, Triple sec & Ginger of Indies liquor together in the mixing glass. Shake very strongly. Pour into a Martini glass. Mix the Campari and grapefruit juice together into the mixing glass filled with ice. Strain and pour very gently above the first mix. Garnish with a cherry in the glass.

where? The first terrace bar to open in Phnom Penh back in 2010, Le Moon quickly became the place to be among both expats and Cambodians alike, who enjoy relaxing around a good bottle of wine with an incredible view over the Tonle Sap river and the surroundings of Sisowath Quay. Le Moon offers an extensive choice of signature cocktails that reflects the creativity and professional skills of their gold-medallist bartenders. Open from 5pm to 1am www.facebook.com/pages/ Le-Moon-Terrace-Bar

geek

THE GEEK BRIEFING BREAKING TECHNOLOGICAL FRONTIERS IN MOBILES, T-SHIRTS & BASKETBALLS

Samsung S5

ISMAIL VORAJEE

The Mobile World Congress is the much anticipated annual showpiece event for many of the biggest players in the mobile telecommunications industry. A diverse array of companies ensure their presence at the event, with market leaders like Samsung and Sony flashing their latest and greatest, to small startups with innovative and unique ideas. All ends of the technological spectrum are well represented, converging on Barcelona annually for the event which, with no exaggeration, has the potential to make or break a company’s fortune for the year. Samsung, as it had done in years previously, took this opportunity to release the much anticipated update to their premium Android phone range, imaginatively dubbed the Samsung S5. This newest itineration is heralded as being the most powerful handset in the South Korean manufacturer’s history and indeed many would argue in the history of the entire mobile industry. Samsung spared no expense in blessing the S5 with a large and bright FullHD 5.1 inch display, a massive 16 megapixel camera sensor, 2gb of RAM and a bumped up quad-core processor clocking in at 2.5ghz. The premium specs of the S5 are complemented by the addition of a funky new home button which handily doubles up as a fingerprint sensor, ‘a la’ Apple iPhone 5s. It is also both waterproof and dustproof enabling it to handle all that your hectic life could possibly throw at it. Taking its design cues from previous galaxy handsets with a healthy dose of inspiration from Apple’s iPhone, Samsung has managed to produce possibly the most ergonomic and aesthetic Android phone on the market. Yes, it’s decked in plastic and yes it comes with

a tacky plastic port cover over the microUSB slot, yet this does not hinder the feeling that you are carrying a real high-end powerhouse of a device in the confines of your pocket. With what Samsung has achieved with their new feature phone, it may well be time to ditch that old Nokia and join the big leagues. Where better to start than with Samsung’s very own, remarkable S5. The S5 is expected to start hitting shelves around the world in early April.

Ballantine’s T-Shirtos So how useful exactly is a T-shirt that can dynamically display text through a series of 896 lights embedded in the fabric? Ballantine’s, ordinarily the purveyor of renowned Scottish Whiskey, showcased their exhibit at MWC and garnered much attention as a result of its unique approach to closing the gap between technology and fashion. It may well prove to be a novelty item, a flash in the pan, but if interest continues to soar and a market is found we all may well be donning a custom tee with our very own signature slogans and tags or god forbid, broadcasting our tweets.

TShirtos is still in testing stages but you can register your interest at switchembassy.com/sample-page /subscribe Or www.tshirtos.com

94Fifty: The First Smart Sensor Basketballs Whoever had the smart idea to shovel a load of microchips into a basketball, thereby giving birth to the ‘94Fifty Smart Sensor basketball’, was seriously on to something. 94Fifty felt that that plain old basketball gathering dust in the back of your garage just doesn’t cut it as a serious tool for serious ballers. By fitting it with a sensor to track its usage and forward this information to your smartphone, the user can monitor his performance and accuracy amongst a host of other useful information relayed to your smartphone. Beyond the obvious market of professional coaches and basketball camps, for the average weekend player it is hard to justify parting with a mighty $249 for what can

be described as little more than a ‘smart’ ball. Nevertheless, interest in the product is high and as an innovative use of technology, and is further indication that the onslaught of technology is gathering pace and encroaching on new frontiers. shop.94fifty.com

extra

A Day in the Life of...

an Elephant

EVERY MONTH, WUPP GETS THE LOWDOWN ON THE DAILY LIFE OF A CAMBODIAN. THIS MONTH, WE SPEAK TO THE STAFF AT WILDLIFE ALLIANCE ABOUT ONE ELEPHANT THEY TAKE CARE OF, LUCKY EVE WATLING Lucky arrived at the sanctuary as a 6 month old calf in 1999. She was an orphan – we’re not sure, but we think poachers shot her mother. She still lives at the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre, which is set in over 6,000 acres of regenerating forest. Elephants have to roam huge amounts of land, and they’re so important for the environment; clearing natural paths in the forest and dispersing seeds in their poo. Lucky sleeps two or three sessions of 1 and a half to two hours a night. In the morning at around 7am she is fed for the first time. She eats sugarcane tips, bananas, banana trees (stalks and leaves), grasses, turnips and tree leaves. Turnips are her favorite food, but she also enjoys special foods (like apples and cooked potatoes) as special rewards as part of our positive reinforcement training. She can eat up to 100kg of food a day!

To meet Lucky, email Tori at wildlifetourspt@wildlifealliance.org or visit wildlifealliance.org 095 970 175

At 8am she walks to the natural lake in the rescue centre. During the walk, she grazes on plants and trees and she hangs out with our Wildlife Tour visitors. She dances to music, and even paints t-shirts! These are obviously not activities a wild elephant would naturally do, but our trainers have taught her using positive reinforcement techniques and reward systems – we would never use punishment or deprivation in our training, which sadly is still common in many zoos across the world. If Lucky doesn’t want to do something, she doesn’t have to, but if she does what we ask, she gets a treat. Sometimes she will fixate on something a visitor is wearing and stroke and feel them with her trunk. She is fed again at 11.00am, and goes on another walk at 2pm, in the jungle towards the Tamao Mountain pagoda. Sometimes, she’ll take a bath, but she might just spray herself quickly with her trunk. At 4pm, she’s fed again. With our tours, we want to show the world that elephants aren’t always scary and destructive – Lucky is actually very gentle, calm – she can even smile!

How to...

Draw a leaf in your

coffee

ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW HOW TO DRAW THOSE COOL SHAPES IN YOUR LATTE? WHAT’S UP MAGAZINE AND GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE TEAMED UP TO GIVE YOU THE KEY TO BECOMING ONE HELL OF A BARISTA...

STEP 1: Technique isn’t everything. You’ve got to first make sure your espresso and milk are perfect. Use cold fresh milk steamed at 150-160°F to get this “melted marshmallow” texture.

STEP 4: Start pouring the foam part of the steamed milk in the cup. Make 4 or 5 gentle flicks upwards with the jug so the milk moves outward from the middle of the cup to the top making a ripple pattern.

STEP 2: Pour 2 espresso shots in your cup.

STEP 5: Raise the jug higher as you continue pouring a thinner stream of milk, then draw the ‘stem’ through the middle: a line from top of the cup to bottom by moving the jug across the length of the cup.

STEP 3: At a consistent, regular speed, pour the liquid part of the steamed milk in the middle of the cup until it reaches half way up the cup.

3 4

where? GLORIA JEANS COFFEE • Corner St 310 and St 51, BKK • Sisowath Quay, PP Port • No. 162, Sihanouk Boulevard • No. 18/20 St. 592, Toul Kork

facebook.com/gloria.jeans. coffee.cambodia

Ashely IS A MARKETER FROM SINGAPORE Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been travelling round Siem reap, but I have to go home in a few days. I need to figure out how to combine working with travelling!

STREET

STYLE

Andy IS FROM SIEM REAP AND WORKS AS A CASHIER IN A BIKE SHOP I love bikes!

Xiao Lu IS AN ARTIST FROM CHINA

James IS FROM AUSTRALIA AND WORKS IN A CAFE My parents are Khmer but I grew up in Australia. I want to study Japanese fashion

I’m a correction artist. I make the animation in app games

Mark IS A SOUNDMAN FROM CANADA We’re filming a French Canadian comedian going round doing silly things

travel

>>NEXT STOP

hanoi

Your first experience of Hanoi will likely be Noi Bai International Airport. The customs and immigration staff there are notoriously unfriendly, the vibe is strangely dystopian â&#x20AC;&#x201C; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re back in 1984 - and even the people whose job it is to be helpful are remarkably unhelpful. You are no longer in the land of smiles: you are in Hanoi, and not everyone likes you. As tempting as it may be to get right back on the plane, things will get better.

DANIEL JENKINS TERESA WEALLEANS

It’s not fair to begin on a bad note, but there is one thing that needs to be said straight up, because it is remarked upon by so many visitors, especially those travelling from Cambodia or Thailand: the Vietnamese – particularly those in the north – can often seem rude and unfriendly: in reality they are not, they are simply sincere. Very sincere. Learn a little of the language, drink bia hoi (freshly brewed beer) or xeo (rice wine) with them: you will quickly see the joyous, respectful personalities that hide behind the disdainful glances and vicious bargaining. Hanoi doesn’t rely on tourism – sometimes it seems to actively discourage it – so don’t expect to be treated like royalty. Expect to be ripped off. But on to the good stuff, and it vastly outweighs the bad. Hanoi has lakes, lots of lakes, and they’re not even filled with cement! The lakes dot the city like a pointillist artwork, providing the backdrop for beautiful sunsets, lots of cafes and bars, young couples cuddling on bikes – but they are also the lungs of the city, effectively sucking up the fumes of a million motorbikes, so best not to swim in them. And don’t eat the fish sold nearby. Otherwise, the food is great. A bowl of pho (noodle soup) for breakfast will cure any hangover, then try bun cha for lunch (basically also noodle soup) and if, by dinner time, you feel like you’ve become half-man-halfnoodle (which is, incidentally, the name of a popular bar) you have a huge variety of Western food to choose from – the French,

in particular, have left their mark – just be sure to venture out of the Old Quarter once and a while as it’s easy to become trapped amongst its ancient alley-ways and backpacker bars.. And then there are the artists! Every expat in Hanoi is an artist, in one form or another, though mostly they teach Kindergarten. This has made for an awesome music and arts scene, giving you something to do every night of the week – whether it’s seeing some live folk music at an open mic night on Wednesday, catching one of the CAMA or GingerWork events which punctuate the year like semi-colons on steroids, or bustling between the two big night-clubs – Hanoi Rock City and Madake– at the weekend. Even though, technically, all businesses must close at midnight, many of the bars have found ways around this rule, making for a sort of prohibition speak-easy kind of vibe. You just have to find them. The blinds are drawn, the rooms are small and smoky, the police paid off: you’re partying in Hanoi – nothing if not intimate.

AN IN-THE-KNOW GUIDE •

•

GO IF: You are an aspiring DJ/ artist/ writer/ mime etc. but just haven’t quite made it yet at home. In Hanoi there is a niche, alleyway or stage for everyone. •

AVOID IF: You are not an artist.

Rent or buy a motorbike as soon as possible: you will be scared, but you will need it. Check out the well-hidden bars and cafes like CAMA ATK, The Hanoi Social Club and Commune. They will require you to leave the Old Quarter, which visitors rarely do, but will be worth the trip. Get a motorbike. Although it takes ages to actually get out of Hanoi, there are some awesome places within a few hours ride. Check out Tam Dao if you want to feel like you’ve just entered a Miyazaki film, or try Ba Be, NinhBinh or Mai Chau. On the 26th and 27th of April Quest Festival is happening at Ba Vi National Park. Facebook ‘Quest 2014’ for details, then get a motorbike.

WHEN TO GO: Summer is hot. Winter is cold. You work it out.

reviews NEW RELEASES

CINEMA

Chaktomuk Short Film Festival

2014

The annual short film festival hit Phnom Penh at the end of March. Here is what we made of the nominees for Best Cambodian Film.

Last Second

(dir. Rithy Lomorpich) This prettily shot silent film is set in Thailand, and shows how a young man’s online obsession with a pop star leads him to neglect his real life girlfriend and commit the heinous relationship-killing crime of forgetting her birthday. It’s colourful and cute, although the narrative needs work and it isn’t afraid of going all-out on the slow motion, sepia-toned reminiscences scored by sad violin music.

The Revenge (dir. our dara) In the great martial arts movie tradition, this Bokator-themed movie is light on back-story and heavy on action sequences – although dedicating 8 out of 9 minutes of running length to pure fighting might be a bit much. Although it is unclear what started the mass brawl between half of the young men in Phnom Penh, the action sequences are fairly well choreographed with an innovative use of the ‘grabbing the thing lying closest to you and using it as a weapon’ trope.

LAST SECOND

helmet

beauty & water

(dir. sara chentra)

(dir. lin wattanak proset)

Mad at her boyfriend after he crashed his bike and injured her, a young woman tries to convince him to get them both helmets. “Why would I do that?” is his reasonable response, “It makes you look like an alien”. She breaks up with him, and too poor to buy his one of his own, he robs a precious family heirloom helmet (really) from the head of a poor garbage collector. The film is a bit odd in tone, going from wacky fart gags to a strong moral message about following traffic laws, but overall it’s a sweet, unpretentious, well told mini-movie.

This is the best shot of the bunch, a dusty hued tale of a man’s long quest to quench his thirst by travelling across arid dry season Cambodia wearing shoes made from string and empty water bottles.

paper plane (dir. kong dalin) This wholesome inspirational film about the preciousness of life is either cloying or cute depending on your outlook on life and tolerance for Taylor Swift-y philosophising.

LIVE MUSIC

Miss Tho and her Autochtones 

They’re back! After their eponymous lead singer, Miss Tho, had to leave the band to work in a garment factory in Battambang, the Siem reap-based band Miss Tho and her Autochunes have reloaded with a new lineup. The band was started by 23 year old French musician Maur Cyries, with the idea of combining Cambodian sounds and textures with his beloved Western alternative rock. He was inspired by the musical exploration of artists such as Tom Waits, who used a variety of Oriental and Khmer

instruments on his legendary Rain Dogs album. The aim is also to bring Khmer musicians to bigger, well respected venues. “I want to make a bridge between the two musical worlds”, he says. ”It’s so unfair that as a pianist I get paid five times more than a Khmer musician – I want to close that gap”. Last month, the band brought their Khmer-meets-Western sounds to the Angkor Village Resort for their first performance with their new singer, the 25 year old Ailyse. For her, the experience has widened her musical horizons: “I never

heard this kind of music before joining the band!”, she confessed. First time nerves meant that some parts of the performance were shaky – yet the roneat ek (best described as a traditional Khmer xylophone) was utilised beautifully on a cover of the Special’s Ghost Town, shivering like a vertebrae as Maur distorted his voice through a megaphone to create a deserted and creepy sonic landscape that resembled Boeung Kak lake as much as the original song’s 1980s Brixton. In turn, 1960’s Khmer classics were in turn given some swirling grungy guitar licks. After some more rehearsals to get Miss Tho polished up, the band plan to record and tour, and continue finding innovative ways to combine Western and Khmer musical textures.

INTERNATIONAL REVIEWS

pharrel

the war on drugs Mø





Although the last year has seen his collaborations with Daft Punk and Robin Thicke prove him to be the best wingman in pop, G I R L shows that Pharrell has kept some hits to himself. The effervescent chart-topper Happy is pure joy, but the 40 year old lounge lizard sounds like he’s struggling through some of the cheesier ‘romantic’ numbers, including the Blurred Lines rip-off Hunter. Maybe he needs a wingman.

Sounding like a forgotten John Hughes soundtrack, Lost in the Dream combines echoey 80s classic rock with a genuinely moving, biting edge of angsty longing. Despite its stadium-friendly sound, it remains a beautiful shut-in of an album, an introverted expression of loss, which expertly balances despair with sparking slivers of hope for the future.

girl

lost in the dream

No Mythologies to Follow 

Woozy hip hop and clattering techno echo across witchy Nordic winterlands in Danish artist Mø’s debut album. Although she might look just like another el ectro cool kid, the deep hooks and unexpected twists of Mythologies prove she h as sta ying power – although the l engthy track listing means th at the album itself perh aps h as too much of it.

BATTAMBANG-BASED ARTIST NICOLAS C. GREY HAS TEAMED UP WITH FREQUENT COLLABORATOR JAMES FARLEY TO TELL THE STORIES OF THE WORLD’S MOST (IN)FAMOUS GURUS.

APRIL agenda >

spacechase (usa)

Latino Session

JAVA & STITCH

@Pontoon pulse

@ Doors

(UK & Canada) @Pontoon Pulse

nudism

An afternoon of workshops

A sonic experience which aims to elate the listener with flawless electronic beats and experimental guitar

@The Riverhouse Lounge proudly presents NUDISM (Tim Coates Vs Mikus) every FIRST FRIDAY of the month starting on Friday 4th April 2014! NUDISM is the name behind DJs, Residencies, Parties and more... It represents a dose of stripped down grooves. Expect the pulsating gritty bass of deep house infused with a raw edgy Gangsta vibe...

ADOBO CONSPIRACY @ Equinox

DJ Solo (Belgium) @ Pontoon Club

11 - 16

@ Old Stadium

@The Riverhouse Lounge

ANZ Grassroots Rugby Day Happy Khmer New Year A half day sport event brought to us by Kampuchea Balopp, who use rugby as a tool of education and social inclusivity.

Beats against corruption @ Meta House Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first anticorruption club night! Brought to you by Phnom Penh-based Khmer and nonKhmer live performers and DJs. Kosal Khiev, live performance (spoken word) , Bboy Peanut, DJ (hip-hop), Java & Stitch, DJ-live guitar (techno fusion) , Simon C Vent, DJ (tech house)

To celebrate your tradition, to be found in family and to exchange gifts and wishes Join from 11th-16th April 2014 from 7pm till very late Reservation: 012 299 161 157 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh.

The Velvet Idol @ The Riverhouse Lounge Feat. Sufiah Noor, Lewis Pragasam & Phil, Soul child Sufiah Noor, Malaysian Idol finalist, is a multi-talented singer with a thrilling voice, Inspired by jazz and soul divas. As a model, M.C. and songwriter, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Malaysian celebrity that crossed the years without failure: a gift for Phnom Penh nights.

2 Piece Party @ Show Box Free entry and free drink if you only have 2 pieces of clothing on. More clothes = 3$

Latino Caliente @ Kepmandou Lounge bar Kep - From 9pm to 2am 30% of benefits go to the association Jardin des langues Ayravady

Dawn of the French @ Show Box All day and night French themed DJs, music and food

Golden Crew (France) @ Pontoon Club

DJ MIKUS ( France) @ Pontoon Pulse

Ghetto Blasters @ Pontoon Club DJ Tech 12 (UK) mc hydrophonics (USA)Cambodian Hottest 100

Ultimate Playlist @ Show Box

Cambodian play list if the 26th of April all day Dawn of the french 25th and 2 piece 18th april bro. Want to hear some shit get down the Box and get involved!! Help create Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most Epic Playlist

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY

Phnom Penh (855) 23 986 350

Siem Reap Sihanouk, Kep & Kampot Battambang (855) 34 934 155 (855) 63 964 409 (855) 53 953 855

SOgSe]

[pa

py! p a H

o Beer you nd t Free , broke a to buy opl e pe nk pl e

Last month, we featured awesome ethical and chic jewellery brand Temper on our New Discoveries page. We’re pleased to announce that now you can now order readymade and custom jewellery from the brand here in Cambodia. Happy shopping! temperbrand.com

KVILeLE U O N A H I S bulanc

Am 08 78 00 097 7 tation Fire S 6 342 0 016 6 lance b Am u 666 86 081 8

SaLvifeer!

ANG BATTrAisMt BPolice

5 Tou 99 99 092 9 tation Fire S 3 222 5 053 9

KAMstPPOoTlice

Box how ugl y S @ o

Dru t peo lovel y to e me to g s? The ave co now h k e drin owbox and ar every h , S r e e u n e c at b res twee ee your ding fr eek be great i w prov of the 7pm. A ight, d ur n day m an ff yo rk tippl e o p 0 k 3 ic 6. wo ox, to k fter how B way ve an a S n . e P h a ap or h e che Phnom h , t 0 on t. 33 11, S .1 o N

Makeup t h at Sta ys Put it’s hot s eason a g ain, whic our make h means up h as s tarted m dail y m aking its igration south as soon as we step out of air-con range. Th ank go d for Bou rjois’ range o f long la sting makeup: their red velvet e dition li pstick (pictured ) sta ys o n for an impre ssive 24 hours, as does th eir Mega Liner liquid e ye liner pen s and gorgeous metallic C olor Edition e yesh ado ws. Bourjois makeup can be found at U-Care and Guardian Ph armac ies

Touri 8 0010 7 097 7 lance u b m A 9 32 28 9 3 3 0

KEPPolice

st Touri 14 118 2 1 0 4

Got a funny WUPP story, a question, a problem, or a dire emergency that for some reason can wait until the next issue comes out? Email eve@wuppmag.com and we’ll sort you right out!

SERVICE INDUSTRY NIGHT * EVERY WEDNESDAY HOSTED BY * KANHA PAULA & ANGIE DJS * TIM COATES & JACK MALIPAN STARTS 9:00PM * RESERVATIONS 017800642

MIXCLOUD.COM/CODECLUBASIA * FACEBOOK.COM/CODEREDCAMBODIA