What's Up Magazine #26 October 2014

#26 10/14

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Co-Founder & Managing Director Antony Hamon Editor In Chief Pierre Rabotin Editor Allison Ludkte Julia White Designers Tanya Cooper Photographers Meas Srey Nich Journalists Ismail Vora jee Anna Mischke Marina Shafik Joe Klondike Darathtey Din Nicolas C. Grey Distribution Manager Ung Rithivan

Cover: Photo and artistic direction by Mona Simon .....

WHAT’S UP MAGAZINE contact@wuppmag.com facebook/wupp.magazine www.wuppmag.com 097 958 7338

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The news of the destruction of the White Building in Phnom Penh triggered dedicating this October issue to one of Cambodia’s most popular landmarks. Threatened by gentrification, the White Building is at the crossroads of many topics: architectural, social, cultural and political.

The White Building is surrounded by wide scale development overtaking Cambodia. Exposed and out of place, the White Building has a target on its back and it is larger than ever.

With its desirable location and dilapidated condition, government is eyeing for it to undergo a “transformation” into a new Cambodia.

The White Building is a representation of the short but promising golden era of the 1960s, created in a time when social housing was becoming an integral facet of urban development. Public housing is as relevant today as it was in the ‘60s as Cambodia’s population continues to urbanize.

Today, nearly 20 percent of the country’s population lives in Phnom Penh.

A building once a staple of The Pearl of Asia, abandoned in times of tyranny and now at a crossroads between embracing the still important history of Cambodia and creating anew by destroying what was.

And since this month seems to be the best one to talk about buildings, we focus in this issue on the beautifully preserved Bokor casino in Kampot province.

On a lighter note you’ll find as usual in these pages recipes, beauty tips, gadgets and much more.

We hope you enjoy this issue The What’s Up team

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Content Photo Of The Month

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New Discoveries

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Feature THE WHITE BUILDING

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Hypemaker

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Art a great gamble

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Wine & Food raffles

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Geek iphone 6

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Culture stories from the past

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Playlist dj shades

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Street Style

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Cocktail the gin mountain

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Beauty hairs the thing

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Recipe soufflร

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Gurus

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Agenda

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SOS Page

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Nยบ 26 - oct 2014

Brunch every Saturday at Raffles GET TOGETHER WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS AT PHNOM PENH’S MOST ELEGANT BRUNCH ENJOY AN EXTRAVAGANT BUFFET SELECTION AND TEMPTING DISHES

SERVED RIGHT AT YOUR TABLE

~ USD 55 - inclusive of a glass of our cocktail of the month ~ USD 75 - inclusive of unlimited signature wines and cocktail of the month ~ USD 85 - inclusive of unlimited G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Champagne, signature wines and cocktail of the month FROM 12.00PM TO 3.00PM RESTAURANT LE ROYAL (LOBBY BRUNCH THE LAST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH) Prices are subject to service charge and applicable government taxes For reservations, please call 023 981 888 or email, dining.leroyal@raffles.com Visit our website: www.raffles.com/phnompenh

photo OF THE MONTH "On the other side"

By Allison Ludkte Taken during my first week in Cambodia, I snapped this shot simply because I thought it was a great view of an interesting building. Little did I know, a few months later I would find myself enamored with this building’s history and its diverse residents.

Although a bit tattered and torn like most items of historical significance, its presence sticks out in this image among a sea of tan concrete and robotic skyscrapers. What I noticed at

this moment was not the development around the building but the horizontal stretch of aged walls, the makeshift tin roofs and the rare structure radiating stories of a rich history.

From standing above this building and aimlessly snapping a photo to sitting in a woman’s apartment as she wept about fear of eviction, the shining significance of the White Building lies both outwardly and within.

DISCOVERIES

new discoveries Our Latest Favourite Things

angkor macaron

Angkor Macaron, a new French pastry shop has just opened at King’s Road village in Siem Reap. And their macarons have already made our top ten list of cravings.

What makes the macarons special is their Cambodian twist.. French pastry chef Yan Poillot uses Cambodian made cashew nut instead of almonds and the result is a great homage to both French and Cambodian cuisines. With a wide range of flavours like chocolate, watermelon, durian, jack fruit, passion-fruit and longan, there is little chance to get tired of eating these fine little treats. They come in beautifully made boxes of 3, 5, 7 or 9 pieces. So if you stop by Siem Reap, leave some extra space in your luggage to take these sweet treats home.

FKings Road Angkor Village, Siem Reap g 017 877 523 p www.angkormacaron@angkorw.com Xrestaurant-siemreap.com ` Angkor Macaron

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villa ni say If you’re eager to avoid the big hotels in Siem Reap, why not rent a villa? For the ones looking for luxury and privacy, Villa Ni Say may just be the perfect option.

As Siem Reap rapidly develops, tourist gems are popping up all over the busy town. Villa Ni Say is a perfect example of this exciting transformation. The new property is a modern and minimalist luxury villa located in the heart of temple town and is available to rent as a personal property.

Everything from the architecture to interior design screams luxury, mingling modern comfort and antique chic with an Asian influence. The six-room residence can house up to 14 people and will be the ideal base camp for families or groups of friends. The spacious and elegant living and dining areas open up onto a superb outdoor terrace and salt-water infinity pool. The ground floor can also be transformed to host private parties, a wedding or any other special occasion.

Xinfo@villanisay.com p www.villanisay.com g 077 41 33 02

L’Auberge du Soleil

jolie jolie If you’re looking for a professional spa and beauty salon in Kampot, don’t look any further. Jolie Jolie has you covered. Ran by passionate owner Sichan Soung, this beauty nest offers high quality service for facials, massages, waxing, manicure, pedicure and more. They pride themselves on using only the best French beauty products. And it’s paying off. Customers have been know to come straight from Phnom Penh to make sure their beauty needs are fulfilled by the former student of Pour Un Sourire d’Enfant NGO. Beautifully designed and decorated by Sichan and her French husband, artist Vincent Broustet, Jolie Jolie built itself a strong reputation since 2010 as of one of the best salons in the kingdom, relying mostly on word of mouth. We’re happy to oblige.

FNext

Kampot is always full of surprises. And that’s exactly what L’Auberge du Soleil was for the team at What’s Up. We stumbled on the guesthouse while sitting on a terrace just a couple blocks away from the Riverside.

The Swiss owned guesthouse and restaurant puts quality, customer service and love of good food as a credo. Owner Cedric’s years of experience shows up on their plates. They’re delicious menu is highlighted by amazing Swiss cheese specialties (you don’t want to skip on the raclette alongside a refreshing glass of white wine), Swiss Cheese Fondue, Rösti, Spätzli, Mediterranean and Khmer Cuisine, as well as a few Tex-Mex dishes. And if you feel too full or tipsy to move, check in to one of their comfortable rooms in this timeless property.

to Paris Guesthouse, old market, 100 meters from river front g 092 936 867 p www.joliejolie-kampot.com

F”Kipling Lane”, Kampot

g 088 88 20 245 p www.auberge-du-soleil.com

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discoveries Camille Street 200

Former science teacher and multi-faceted entrepreneur Camile Ghastine just opened a new gastronomic curiosity you won’t want to miss.

"Camile Street 200" is an institution offering a different atmosphere and menu throughout the day, each inspired by French gastronomic traditions. At lunch the restaurant offers a brasserie ambiance with a classic French menu. By late afternoon stop by for a “salon de the” with deserts each more appetizing than the next.

Friday nights it’s dinner and a show… a magic show put on by the chef himself.

The restaurant aims at being generous, friendly, tasty, creative and definitely full of surprises.

FNo. 16, St. 200 g 086 216 200

Phnom Penh Tattoo Wanna get inked ? If you’re looking for high quality tattoos and health standards here in Cambodia, you should pay a visit to Leo and Mark Guru the owners of Phnom Penh Tattoo “Sinville in the city” located inside Lazy Gecko Café & Guesthouse.

With a combined twenty-six years of experience between them, the two tattoo artists are specialized in styles like black and grey, lettering, Japanese, traditional/old school and much more. They will also work with you to create the piece you’ve always wanted. A really good address we truly recommend if you don’t want to schedule a tattoo removal in the future.

FLazy Gecko, St. 258, Phnom Penh g 012 218 652 p www.phnompenhtattoo.com/

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bubbles "A fun, vibrant place to get your bubble tea fix. We also have the finest homemade local ice cream.” And with that promise from owners James Touch, Joyce Touch and Mervin Chin how could you not be enticed to check out “Bubbles Tea & Ice cream”, a quirky bubble tea and ice cream shop near Tuol Sleng.

The family business feels friendly and relaxed. It’s a place where it’s encouraged to stuff your face with bubble tea, coffee and ice cream often made with locally grown and organic ingredients.

Don’t skip the ice cream, a passion for the owners hailing from San Francisco where ice cream is both a classic treat and an art form.

It’s the only place in town to get crazy flavours such as bourbon with frosted flakes, cream cheese with real blueberries or red wine with chocolate chips. And since the thoughtful owners don’t want to leave anyone out, flavors with coconut cream, sugar, tapioca starch and freshly pureed seasonal fruits are vegan friendly.

Did we mention we’re a little bias? The ice cream has become a favourite for us here at What’s Up Magazine.

Trust us, you want to try Bubbles.

FNo. 70, St. 113, Phnom Penh g 087 707 671 p www.bubblesteashop.com

More Than a Building

Phnom Penh's Bohemia  PIERRE RABOTIN & Allison Ludtke

> Allison Ludtke

PHNOM PENH, – “Drugs and prostitution” is the recurring answer from the average Phnom Penh resident when asked to describe the “White Building,” also known as the “Anarchy Building” to many locals.

More than a thousand people live there today: artists, musicians, community activists, fruit vendors and civil servants. Beneath the faded facade, scattered trash and tarnished tin sheet window linings, a rich history is concealed.

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"But two hallways over it’s a different story.

Apartments with tiled floors are equipped with televisions and internet."

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riginally called the Municipal Apartments, this 300-meter, 468-room building on Sothearos Boulevard was designed with Phnom Penh’s tropical climate in mind and built with open staircases so families could live above their businesses.

The building was part of the Bassac River Front cultural complex, overseen by Vann Molyvann. It was constructed in the 1960s

by Cambodian architect Lu Ban Hap and Russian architect Vladimir Bodiansky and became the first“mass housing” in Cambodia, offering low and medium income families an affordable place to live.

Teachers, civil servants and many artists engaged in the National Theater made the landmark their home.

But when Cambodia fell to the Khmer Rouge, tenants were forced to leave. The building survived the regime but many former residents did not. Of the few artists that did, some began returning to their haven joined by displaced citizens looking to rebuild their life in the city.

Soyam Pun, 75, whose grandfather worked for the Ministry of Fine Arts, moved her whole family into the building after the Khmer Rouge. She and her husband, a flute maker, have lived here since. “My life is easy around the building. I am happy in this community.”.

Today, it’s often referred to as a slum and many scoff and shudder as they walk by.

But on closer inspection the dilapidated White Building is made up of a community resembling many others across Phnom Penh filled with hard-working families.

But there is a stark contrast between the tenants in the building. A line is drawn between those who own and those who rent. Owners point to the dark hallways of

one end and describe it as “dangerous”.

There, a family of three lies on the single mattress that fills their dark room. A naked child wanders seemingly unsupervised through halls lined with bits of trash.

But two hallways over it’s a different story.

Apartments with tiled floors are equipped with televisions and internet.

Sot Jenery, 49, owns her home in the building. She and her husband are musicians and sell instruments to make a living.

Her apartment feels cozy with wooden furniture, colorful rugs, a television and family portraits adorning the walls.

Cheay Senhag, 17, was born in this building.

She knows the building has a bad reputation, but says it’s safe. “Lots of young kids live here. A community has formed.”.

Marion Gommard, the Communications Manager at Cambodian Living Arts, says the organization has sponsored a community-led program in the building.

“Usually we try not to highlight the prostitution and drugs, although we acknowledge that they exist. Rather, we try to show what is positive and inspiring to encourage more people to grow through culture and arts.”

The NGO conducted dance classes in the Building to develop independent, selfsustaining performing troupes.

“The fact that artists who come from the White Building used to learn an art form there and are now part of self-sustaining performing troupes is quite inspiring, I think!,” said Gommard NGO Empowering Youth in Cambodia is, also, helping the building’s community offering free English classes, cultural and

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cover leadership programs and sets up a weekly clinic at their Aziza School.

Cambodia is transforming at a rapid pace.

Luxury car dealerships and new hotels are cropping up in every neighbourhood., Families across the city fear their homes will be the next in line for demolition in an age where skyscrapers take precedence over history.

But in a country where 20 percent of the population lives below the poverty line, affordable apartment complexes, like the White Building, are essential.

Ton Vanna, 60, rents for $150 per month.

He says he earns only enough selling items in town to make it day-to-day.

Many residents like Vanna say the central location is key to their livelihood. They can’t afford their own transportation and depend on the central location to get to their jobs.

Ee Sarom, Executive Director of Cambodian Urban NGO Sahmakum Teang Tnaut says forcing people to move from the city centre is a financial burden for those who can’t afford the cost of transportation in and out of the city. Many lose their already meager paying jobs as a result.

Recently, news reports and local residents say development company 7NG is slowly purchasing apartments and rumours of demolition and eviction have followed. A representative for the company said he could not comment, but that there were “inaccuracies” in the reports.

Sarom says the threat of evictions from the White Building bears a striking similarity to Dey Krahorm in 2009, where residents were forced to give up their land to the develope and relocate 20 k.m. away.

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“We are very concerned because the people should have a right to the city and if evicted, should receive fair compensation.”

Ly“first buy, then evict.”

“Many people do not know where to go”, she continues. “They will be forced to a new location and have nothing.”

Tenants say if they receive“fair compensation” they would consider moving. But the meaning of “fair compensation”differs among residents. Mr. Sarom said, “It’s hard to say fair compensation will follow market price. They should at least be given enough to buy another home in the city, $4,000-$5,000.”

Luaha Tong, 53, a vendor who sells goods in the building, says, “I don’t know where I would go. I don’t want to leave here.”

Many of their stories are similar- tales of exodus from their provinces in search of financial stability in the big city, finding shelter in a building once representative of Cambodia’s social change.

But their looming eviction is another common story. More than150,000 people have been displaced over the past two decades, often as a result of forced evictions, according to a 2013 report by Sahmakum Teang Tnaut.

“People are living. Some are rich, some are poor, but they all are living well there,” says Ms. Kourn, who now works with the Aziza school.

Behind these walls live government officials, classical dancers and fruit vendor.

A melting pot. The 99 percent. The real Cambodia. Underneath its jaded exterior, this community serves as a representation of the greater collective of Phnom Penh.

"Cambodia is transforming at a rapid pace. Luxury car dealerships and new hotels are cropping up in every neighbourhood., Families across the city fear their homes will be the next in line for demolition in an age where skyscrapers take precedence over history."

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facing demolition In late August reports swirled of the eviction and ultimate demolition of Phnom Penh’s historic White Building. Some residents said 7NG Development Company started buying up apartments and putting locks on the doors. A few days later, Phnom Penh’s Governor, Pa Socheatvong, confirmed the building was condemned and headed for demolition. There were rumours residents would be relocated to Chroy Changva district on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. But many residents knew little of their fate, finding out what they could from neighbours or television.

Residents, historians and NGOs were outraged by the news. Government officials justified the announcement by deeming the building dangerous and structurally unsafe.

But more than a dozen organizations disagreed, signing a joint statement from urban NGO Sahmakum Teang Tnaut entitled “ Stop Destroying Our City”. It condemned the government for providing insufficient evidence of unsafe conditions and urged them to reconsider.

Now there are signs the government is changing its position. Phnom Penh’s City Hall spokesman, Long Dimanche, recently said the building will not be demolished. But residents say development companies are still making individual offers in hopes people will move, prompting more fears for what lies ahead.

Virak Ou President of the Cambodian Center for Human Rights Currently, the White Building is very old and quite rundown. There have been a lot of issues that you would expect in a lowincome housing community. The area has been known for prostitution and drug use, particularly in the ‘90s and 2000s. People are poor and are living in very cramped spaces. It stands in quite stark contrast to the many condominiums that have mushroomed across Phnom Penh.

But what I have witnessed throughout the years is quite different. Although the White Building is all of the things generally being described by many, it is also an amazing place. During my work fighting against

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evictions in nearby communities, I have learned that the "building", as it is commonly referred to by Cambodians, is also a place where there is a strong sense of community.. People don't just live there, they belong there. That sense of belonging is what holds the place together.

It has, also, become a place for young artists, musicians and charities. It is vibrant. It exemplifies Cambodian urban culture where people have shown incredible resiliency. To me, it's a historic building. It is an example of the golden era’s successful public housing policy, one that has never again been duplicated in this country. It, also, carries the marks of war. The day the building is torn down will be a sad day. Tearing down Phnom Penh's only true urban landmark would be a huge blow to a ma jor part of our identity.

On September 02 ,2014, the Phnom Penh municipal Governor Pa Socheatvong called for the condemnation and demolition of the White Building, based on concerns about the safety of the building, stating that negotiations are underway for the resettlement of residents to the Chroy Changva district. […]

We also call for the reconsideration of the demolition of the building and resettlement of affected families, urging the Phnom Penh Municipality to consider onsite upgrading as the priority option for the White Building. The site is home to approximately 600 families, some of which have been living there since the re-settlement of Phnom Penh in 1979. To this end, Sahmakum Teang Tnaut (STT) and residents of the White Building have already been carrying out upgrading works – including safety upgrading

petition

to the stairwells, roof reparation, and painting of the interior communal areas.

[…]

We hereby wish to highlight that the resettlement site under negotiation in Chroy Changva district is located in the outskirts of Phnom Penh, and the relocation of families will undoubtedly affect their livelihoods due to the decrease of income generation opportunities andseperation from essential services in the city (health and education facilities). In the undesirable case that resettlement is decided upon, we call for the Phnom Penh Municipality to follow international human rights conventions on resettlement, such as the United Nations Right to Adequate Housing.

Extrats from “Stop Destroying Our City”

“There are no plan to demolish the White Building; therefore, there is no plan of any resettlement for the residents in the building either.”

Long

Dimanche, Phnom Penh City Hall spokesperson

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Ee Sarom Executive Director,.

Sahmakum Teang Tnaut: a Cambodian Urban NGO Can you go into more detail about the "Stop Destroying Our City" petition and the enormous support it had? What is it about this building that makes it so beloved and important to Phnom Penh?

The Stop Destroying Our City statement was produced to show the government that civil society is ready to ensure that the White Building is not destroyed without any due process of information and consultation. The fact that the announcement of the condemnation of the building was founded on no proof and that no security audit had in fact been carried out shows the lack of transparency with which the government operates. This statement is about residents exercising their right to the city and to the White Building.

This building is important because families have lived there since 1979, and it is one of the few charismatic buildings in the centre of Phnom Penh that still has a sense of community.

Ironically, it is of much higher quality, structurally, than a lot of newer buildings. And, maybe surprisingly, it was built around the same time as the Buildbright University directly opposite from it. This goes to show what a lick of paint and a little structural work could do to this building.

Finally, it is also one of the few buildings that make up Phnom Penh's architectural heritage, and destroying it would be symbolic of the government's

poor development policy.

Can you speak specifically to its importance to housing for the urban poor? It seems that Cambodia is developing at a rapid pace and communities like the White Building (which offer low cost, accessible housing) are continuously evicted and pushed out.

The importance of living in the city centre is invaluable for a lot of the poorer communities that rely on small businesses and employment opportunities that are central. Pushing communities out through evictions causes community disintegration and the White Building has a real sense of community with 600 families living there. There are very few alternatives for affordable housing in the centre of Phnom Penh, as the government does not have a social housing scheme.

What happens when there is nowhere else to go, and what does this pattern of evict and develop say about the rights of the Cambodian people?

As they have no home, the evictees will try to live where they can - on the street and/or the other urban poor community where it is cheaper to rent or buy land. The pattern to regularly evict then develop indicates the low importance the government attributes to the livelihood of the current residents of the capital.

Instances of unannounced and violent evictions shows the lack of respect of basic human rights and, ultimately, it shows that the government attributes more importance to big investors than to the Cambodian people.

"The fact that the announcement of the condemnation of the building was founded on no proof and that no security audit had in fact been carried out shows the lack of transparency with which the government operates."

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art & architecture Vann Molyvann designed for a modern Cambodia. His Bassac River Front project featured the White Building and envisioned an Exhibition Hall, National Theatre, a School of Fine Arts and Classical Dance and an art gallery. So it was no surprise that the White Building became a haven for artists, many who worked for the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts and the prominent National Theater. The building embodies Molyvann’s modern style - a combination of traditional, ancient Khmer design and colonial aspects transformed into accessible, livable designs. It is one of the few representations of this modernist period in Cambodia’s history and is featured on architecture tours.Today, classical dancers, musicians, photographers, painters, instrument makers and culture officials still inhabit their original stomping grounds. Sa Sa Arts and Cambodian Living Arts are just a few of the organizations encouraging preservation of performance art through dance troupe training, film and the photography.

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Lyno Vuth Artistic Director for Sa Sa Art Projects – White Building Can you describe your experiences with the White Building community? Why is this building important to Cambodia and what does it offer culturally and artistically? With plans to evict residents and demolish the building, how does this speak to the greater issue of necessary conservation of culture and tradition within Cambodia?

My first experience with the neighbourhood was a bit intimidating because of what I had heard about the community and from its grimy appearance. The White Building is commonly associated with poverty, poor sanitation, petty crimes and so on. However, once I spent some time in this neighbourhood, I learned that it is a vibrant community.. Generations of dancers, musicians and performers have been living here since the early ‘80s. It's a home of civil servants, street vendors and low-income residents. It's full of

activities from community-led campaigns to art events, English or computer classes and dotted with countless small shops and businesses.

The White Building is not only part of Khmer architectural and cultural heritage, it is also a thriving arts community. It is home to more than 2,500 people spanning generations who live, share, pass on knowledge, collaborate, and create works ranging from dances, performances, music, photography, films and so on. If the government were to destroy the White Building, it would not only mean erasing history and destroying a remarkable Cambodian urban heritage, but also destroying one of the most rare and rich artistic communities in the country.

Preserving the White Building doesn't mean only preserving Cambodian culture, it means supporting the growing

"The White Building is not only part of Khmer architectural and cultural heritage, it is also a thriving arts community.

It is home to more than 2,500 people spanning generations who live, share, pass on knowledge, collaborate, and create works ranging from dances, performances, music, photography, films and so on."

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Sylvain Ulisse Project manager : Solidarity Priority Fund "Angkorian and non-Angkorian heritage, vocational training and development" I think it would be a shame to make a ma jor piece of history under the Sangkum Reastr Niyum and one of the last Bassac Riverfront urban projects.disappear.

The building is indeed in bad shape. But this landmark could be renovated and the residents, who mostly own their flats, could be involved in this process.

I don’t think we could consider the White Building as the sole architectural symbol of Cambodia. It’s an example among others of the urban planning conducted in the 1960s. Vann Molyvann’s Preah Suramarit National Theatre, which was built in 1968 and destroyed in 2007 after a fire, was in my opinion much more symbolic of the Bassac River front urban project.

But don’t forget that The White Building is not the only one in this situation. A fair amount of other city landmarks are on borrowed time but should be preserved.I can think of three examples - ,the old police station in front of the post office, the first office of the Council of Ministers in front of the Silver Pagoda and the Olympic Stadium.

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"I don’t think we could consider the White Building as the sole architectural symbol of Cambodia. It’s an example among others of the urban planning conducted in the 1960s."

Pen SereyPagna freelance architect and urban researcher

“Destroying the White Building means destroying Phnom Penh city’s history. What would it mean to live in a city with no history?

Residents of the building really differ from artists, tuk tuk drivers and construction workers.. Those people are part of Phnom Penh’s identity - vibrant, dynamic and hard working.”

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resident Two hundred and forty-eight apartments makeup the stretch of the four-story White Building. More than 2500 people call this home. From fruit sellers to musicians and government officials, to those who rent versus those who own, an assortment of personalities, incomes and stories fill the dark halls. What unites them is this building, many of whom have lived here since its original development before the Khmer Rouge, and who similarly wonder if they may be forced to flee their home again, this time, once and for all.

Tet Am Rong “Chan” 58, Resident Tet Am Rong welcomed us into her home. She grabbed three plastic chairs and slowly wiped down the rain soaked seats. We sat in a small, open living room covered only by a tin roof. Soft spoken, she motioned us to sit.

Upon hearing the word eviction, her delicate gaze hardened.

“I feel disappointed by City Hall because I am afraid this will turn out like the other buildings, like the other times where people didn’t get fair compensation. I feel so sad to hear that this means I will be forced to leave my home. I found out the news of our eviction as I was watching television with my neighbour.

“One man came to talk to my sister, offering to buy her apartment. He asked, how much we think it’s worth. Right now,

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we’ve been offered between $30,000 and $50,000 to leave the three apartments we own. But I hear $20,000 is as much as we will get. We don’t have a place to go yet.”

“I am happy to live close to a school and supermarkets. I am a cook at a restaurant and this location allows me to get to work.”

She paused and looked at the developed apartment complex looming over the White Building, unavoidable from her vantage point. She wondered what life would be like if she could afford a home like that.

“I feel hopeless right now. I have nothing and no way to stop this. We are all human beings, but those who are rich are completely different. There is discrimination between rich and poor.”

Her daughter-in-law entered the room with her two young children. Rong began

to gently stroke the baby’s curly hair listening to her other granddaughter show off her doll.

“I feel such pain in my heart. I have lived here since 1982. This is my home. When I came here, this place was filled with trash. I made it a home. My children were raised here and went to school in the area.”

Her eyes now welling up with tears, she went on, pointing towards a newly constructed high-rise complex facing her home.. She changed her gaze towards another now abandoned apartment that suffered a similar eviction.

“I feel like I have no power. I am scared of this eviction. Other people’s experiences scare me.

Bulldozers are forcing people out of their homes when they have nowhere else to go. I knew people in that building and know their stories. My friends could not retrieve their belongings. There was tear gas, police and violence.

I am afraid they will come one day, afraid they will cut off the water supply or electricity and we will have no choice but to leave.”

She brought us into her third floor apartment, proudly showing us pictures of her family.

“I haven’t slept since I heard the news. I am so worried.” She touched her heart, tears dripping down her face. “ I am scared to resist and stand against this.”

“I feel safe here. This is my home, my community. No one wants to leave.”

I feel like I have no power. I am scared of this eviction.

Other people’s experiences scare me.

Bulldozers are forcing people out of their homes when they have nowhere else to go.

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Chan Chay 70, Cyclo driver resident since 1979

and

There are no problems in this neighborhood. It is safe compared to before.. Now I can leave my cyclp outside unattended.

We all have different jobs and we respect each other. Some people work as civil servants, some as street vendors.

But we are all human. We all have jobs to do. I don’t think other residents look down at me. Instead, everyone is always kind to me because I am old and poor.

But it’s hard for me to live in the city. I need to work here to survive.

I worry about the future. I am growing older. How do I pay my rent at the end of the month?

What I know is that this building is central to the city.

People living here may be evicted. But I don’t understand why they are doing this.”

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twitter debate >

Chan soda My name Chan Soda. I am 30 years old.

I finished my Associate in Arts degree in 2006 at the Royal University of Fine Arts specializing in classical dance.

Today, I’m a teacher at the department of fine arts.

I was born in the White Building.

I know the building was constructed under the late King Norodom Sihanouk with donations from France. Now the building is a tourist attraction, so the government should keep it. Do not destroy it.

This building used to be only for artists and their families. But later,several artists’ families moved and sold their houses. Other families came in and bought apartments. Many have lived here for a long time. I can say half the residents are artists. Most of them are poor.

People don’t know the building. They always think it is bad and unsafe. That’s because the building looks old. Also, gangsters and thieves steal people’s property outside then run and hide in the building. This is why people think the building is bad.

I will move if we receive fair compensation. Most families are poor and they can’t afford to buy a new house.

The real estate market is so expensive.

Even the countryside is expensive. If the government doesn’t give enough compensation for families to relocate, it is like killing them.

35

cover

opinion IEP POA KORNG

Architect I think the demolition of the White Building is partly good for development. The main problem is that the block looks old which can affect the value of the surrounding properties. Another problem is that the building might collapse one day if it’s not maintained. Of course, I don’t agree with the demolition, but I would prefer to improve the surrounding neighborhood for security reasons. I would renovate the building into a historic, tourist attraction with a restaurant inside rather than demolishing it or keeping it as a residential building. The building shows traces of Cambodia’s history, its architecture and its society of that period.

36

>  DARATHTEY DIN

The building represented AFFORDABLE HOUSING in the city. In the 1960s, people could buy a place near the city. How feasible is this now? Nothing this unique has been conceived by the government within the last 20 years. Once it disappears, people will never know what it had achieved. To me, the White Building is a secret community, a microcosm of life encompassed within itself. It’s mysterious because I imagine there are so many happy and sad stories that I could never imagine or be part of. It is more beautiful than we would ever know. - expat in cambodia

SHARMANI FOWLER

UOEUNG BONSOVATHARY

Office assistant I think demolishing the White Building is such a waste because it’s the legacy of the nation. The building is the first piece of architecture that should be preserved.

It is the symbol of the emergence of Cambodia’s golden age during the 1960s – the country’s renaissance. We should keep it as proof that we used to be great in architecture. I think, instead of demolishing it, the building can be turned into another project such as a museum or preserved but used as something new.

I don’t think any national heritage should be demolished, and the White Building is a unique piece of modern history. You know, with money you can build skyscrapers more modern than the White Building. But money cannot go back in time and re-create the history that lies behind it. Hearing the news about the demolition of the building, I was both shocked and sad. If the place really is no longer a safe place to live in, then it is wise to evict the residents to a safer place.

But DO NOT TEAR IT DOWN. Keep it there. It could be an iconic museum. From an economic perspective, it could potentially be a tourist attraction that will generate more income for the government, similar to the horrendous Toul Sleng Museum (the S21). If you want to see modern buildings, you can go to Bangkok, Singapore and other developed cities.

To me, the White Building is an icon of a modern Cambodian history. It is one of the few buildings to survive the Khmer Rouge. Why demolish something that is so valuable to the country?

Associate Research Manager

MENH VUTHISOKUNNA 37

the biggest

brought to you by

Party of the year october 23, 24 & 25 from 6pm daily

hotel cambodiana - phnom penh

Tickets available at hotel cambodiana’s lobby, la croisette, dan meats, monument books, u-care stores, tell restaurant, Queen hotel, Warehouse, sovereigvn retail stores, meta house, eric Kayser store (st.240) and at the door.

$

21

od fo 10 k $ . n l i inc & dr

Featuring: gaudiblosn

original band from munich gold sponsors

prince samao

magician / illusionist

tony re-al

mc / entertainer games and much

Hosted by

sound & light

Venue & Food

mOre!!

Supported by

ADW Arbeitskreis Deutsche Wirtschaft

German Business Group Cambodia

www.brawnengineering.com (+855) 92 818 290

media part ners (+855) 979 333 202

audio

silVer sponsors

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visual

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lighting

bronze sponsors The CAMBODIA DAILY

book your tickets: tel: 010 811 190 mail@oktoberfest-cambodia.com www.oktoberfest-cambodia.com facebook.com/OktoberfestCambodia

ANNACAM

Partners Co., Ltd.

photography by:

Drink reSponSibly

hypemaker events

HYPEMAKER What we’re excited about this october

Canon Photo Marathon 2014 Cambodia’s biggest and certainly most exciting photography competition is back in Phnom Penh on October 19 at Koh Pich.

The fourth edition of the ma jor competition promises to be more popular than ever, with a record of 1,000 participants expected to take part!

Following the rules in all Canon PhotoMarathon across Asia, contestants will be given photographic topics on the day of the competition. They must then use their creativity to take the perfect picture that encapsulates the topic before returning to submit their work before the deadline expires.

In addition to the “Open Category”, this year’s Canon PhotoMarathon Cambodia will see the introduction of “Student Category” which is open to anyone below 18 years old. This is part of Canon’s initiative to encourage young Cambodians to develop an interest in photography. Participants for the “Student Category” will follow the same contest rules and will be competing on the same topics as the “Open Category”, but stand to win different prizes.

 Koh Pich, Building G / Sunday 19th October 2014 from 7am to

9pm.

Registration for this competition ends on 17th October 2014. p Register online: http://bit.ly/ registerCPM14 g096 871 6355 ` QlickCambodia

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oktoberfest Dust of your dirdndls and fasten your lederhosen, Oktoberfest Cambodia arrives in Phnom Penh this month for three nights of traditional beerguzzling celebrations.

Beer, brats, and ladies dressed in dirndls. Yes, it’s that time of the year again: the world’s largest fair is coming to town. The 16-day fair in Munich has provided festive fun for millions of visitors since 1850 and is widel y known as the largest and most famous German beer festival in the world. Likewise, Oktoberfest Cambodia has become an established and anticipated annual

Kimchi Collective’s Big, Big Birthday Bash with ‘Vandetta’ live sponsored by What'S UP mag

 NICK SELLS event, attracting more than 1000 people a night since it began in 2009 under the German Business Group of Cambodia (ADW).

To help get the party started (and keep it going throughout the evening) a traditional five-member Bavarian band, Gaudiblosn are fl ying in from Minich, Germany for the event, which will take centre stage at Hotel Cambodiana’s idyllic outdoor Mekong Terrace for three consecutive nights. To create an event that promises to be bigger and better than the years before, a variety of local and imported beers will be on offer alongside a buffet of roast pig on a spit, grilled chicken, sauerkraut and sausages to provide party-goers with an atmosphere akin to the annual event celebrated worldwide.

Cambodia’s largest German festival and first ever beer festival happens on October 23rd, 24th and 25th, 6pm-11pm, at Hotel Cambodiana, Phnom Penh.

The $21 ticket includes $10 food and beverage coupons.

Prosit Phnom Penh!

I Buy the tickets online: p www.oktoberfest-cambodia.com ` OktoberfestCambodia

It’s time for the famous DJ collective to celebrate three years of party rocking with a bang. As always, Kimchi Collective residents BFox, CynCity & danbeck will be in attendance, providing electronic party music of the highest distinction at Code Red Cambodia on Saturday October 18 from 10pm.

For the occasion they invited special guest Vandetta who makes glitchy, spaced-out R&B with a focus on her incredible vocals.

They will be also joined by DJ Strangefruit whose passion and encyclopedic knowledge of music have seen him play alongside DJ megastars such as Danny Tenaglia, Roger Sanchez, Frankie Knuckles, Todd Terry and now Kimchi Collective (of course).

Kimchi Collective Pre-Party (7pm-12am) Strictly limited to 100 guests Samai Distillery / Saturday 18 October Kimchi Birthday Brunch On Sunday 19th October, Kimchi Collective are back on our rooftop at Chow at the Quay Hotel to celebrate our 3rd birthday and get over the previous night’s raving.

Amazing views, great tapas and the choicest selection of electronic music found anywhere in the city.

 Chow Rooftop (The Quay Hotel), Sisowath Quay

} 41

art

A Great Gamble Peeling the layers of Bokor’s famous casino   Joe Klondike

At the coastline of the Kingdom of Wonder stands a carcass of Colonialism - a ghostly yet stunning structure.

And it's freely accessible for anyone wanting to walk through and witness its impressive history firsthand.

42

I

t is a large and imposing architectural shell that looms on the cliffs of Kampot province, lurking over the water toward Vietnam's Phu Quoc. It sometimes seems to eerily float when the thick fog descends.

Today, Bokor Palace stands deserted. But plans to renovate the colonial structure means it may see its fifth incarnation and, hopefully, its last.

The Bokor Hill Station resort area was constructed by the French in 1925 and provided an escape from the heat and humidity of the urban capital. The focal point of the resort was the grand Bokor Palace Hotel, along with other supporting buildings such as a church and a post office.

But the French abandoned Bokor Hill in the early ‘50s, following the pan-regional Indochina War for independence. During the conflict, the hotel was used as a defacto hospital until being set ablaze and consequently sat dormant for many years after that.

King Norodom Sihanouk resurrected the splendor of the Bokor Palace in 1962, adding a casino to the hotel. An avowed Francophile, the king sought to meld the sophistication of France with the ethnic identity of Cambodia.

But it wasn’t long before the dissolution of the Lon Nol regime, the rise of the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnam War which brought decades of tragedy and instability across Cambodia.

The entire region around Bokor became a Khmer Rouge stronghold and the hotel became their Bokor base until the ‘90s when the Khmer Rouge finally disbanded. Then it simply morphed into a hulking curiosity and sometimes party place for the intrepid who braved the original road, which was in terrible condition after decades of neglect.

Today, Sokimex Corporation, which owns the Bokor resort, has constructed a brand new garish casino nearby replete with a newly minted road up the hill and an adjacent housing development racing toward completion. They, alone, hold the fate of the original magnificent Bokor Palace in their hands and, surprisingly, have done a wonderful job of it.

Thus far..

43

art

“Today, Sokimex Corporation, which owns the Bokor resort, has constructed a brand new garish casino nearby replete with a newly minted road up the hill and an adjacent housing development racing toward completion. They, alone, hold the fate of the original magnificent Bokor Palace in their hands and, surprisingly, have done a wonderful job of it. Thus far..�

44

By sandblasting the interior as well as the exterior of the building, then using fresh concrete to patch up the crumbling infrastructure, they have achieved the truly sublime. The result is a kinetic mash-up of 2000 shades of grey creating mesmerizing patterns everywhere you look. The original psychedelic tiles serve as a funky patchwork ceramic carpet. The result, so far, is an ethereal and pithy masterpiece, an ode to the ma jestic possibilities of a prosaic material like concrete.

But will the good fortune hold? There are murmurings of a museum or even another attempt at restoring the hotel.

Both of these options would inevitably prove disastrous compared to its current "state of grace". The Bokor Palace is faithful in every detail and gorgeous in its combination of ingenuity, conceptual weight and visual poetry. Go see it now...before it shape-shifts yet again...}

"House" by Rachel Whiteread,

Serendipitously

and

unin-

tentionally it directly echoes the work of one of the most famous

sculptors

in

the

Contemporary Art World. Her name is Rachel Whiteread, she won one of the world's most

prestigious

prizes

in 1993, The Turner Prize, with her memorable solid concrete cast of the inside of a Victorian terrace house (titled "House").

45

wine & food

wine & Food “MATCH OF THE MONTH”

Discover our monthly feature on how to pair wine and food. Two wines and two recipes by one chef from an exciting restaurant to make sure you become the best host in the city. This month, enjoy two recipes from raffles

Dulzino Moscato

by Vina Maipo (Semi-Sweet)

WHY THEY MATCH PERFECTLY

Foie Gras Espuma, Salt Biscuit Crumble, Celery Confiture, Micro Greens and Bitter Chocolate Makes 4 servings

By Wayan Mawa For the celery Confiture 120g of celery stalks, cleaned, peeled and cut into small pieces to your liking 1 tbsp of unsalted butter 1/2 cup of orange juice 100g of brown sugar 1 piece of dried clove In a small pot, combine all the ingredients and cook them slowly over a medium-low heat until the celery turns soft, sweet and resembles crystals.

For the salt biscuit crumble 225g of all-purpose flour pinch of salt 1 egg Pinch of baking soda 80 grams of icing sugar 80 ml of sunflower oil 1 tsp lemon honey

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Combine all the ingredients and fold them into a dough. Place in the refrigerator to rest.

Remove from the refrigerator and knead the dough. Roll it out into a sheet and place the rolled out dough on a greased tray. Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes at 140C-150C

Many wine drinkers find the moscato a bit too sweet, however, this Dulzino Moscato may surprise you. It’s a lighter white wine you can enjoy any time of day. The crisp Vina Maipo will help cut through the rich Foie Gras mousse and the sweet moscato grape compliments the saltiness of the dish.

Over a medium-high heat, bring the duck stock to a boil then lower the heat to a simmer. Add foie gras terrine, salt and pepper. Take the pot off the stove. Add the cream and proespuma and mix together.

Fill a clean pressurized bottle with the mixture and dispense as a mousse.

Remove from the oven and let cool.

Crumble the biscuit when needed.

For the foie gras espuma 400ml of duck stock 300g of foie gras terrine 20 ml of cognac 30-40gof proespuma salt pepper 120g of cream

To assemble: crush the salt biscuit into a crumble and arrange on an oval plate. Spray the mousse of foie gras espuma into a bowl and then spoon the mousse into canelles over the biscuit crumble.

Garnish with edible flowers, celery confiture, micro greens and melted bitter chocolate. Serve immediately.

GRILLED BEEF TENDERLOIN, Rosti Potato, Sautéed Mushrooms, Pan-seared Foie Gras, Red Wine Sauce Makes for 2 servings

By Wayan Mawa For the rosti potatoes 180 grams peeled and grated potatoes salt pepper vegetable oil for pan-frying For the beef tenderloin olive oil 180g angus beef tenderloin salt peper Season the beef with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat olive oil in a pan and grill the tenderloin to preferred doneness. for the Red Wine Sauce 2 teaspoons of chopped shallots 1 1/2½cups of red wine 1/2 piece of bay leaf 1/2 cup of demi-glace salt pepper 1 tblsp cold unsalted butter

Combine the chopped shallots, red wine and bay leaf. Place them on low heat and reduce until it becomes ½ cup. Add demi-glace and reduce further until a thick consistency is reached. Stir in the butter until fully incorporated into the sauce. for the Sautéed Mushrooms 1 cup of any variety of mushrooms, sliced (porcini, shiitake, oyster, et al) 1 tsp of minced garlic 2 tsp of minced shallots 1 tbsp of butter 1 tsp of cognac to flambé 2 tbsp of white wine salt pepper chopped thyme

Melt the butter and sauté garlic and shallots until soft. Add mushrooms. Flambé the mushrooms with the cognac. Add white wine, salt, pepper and thyme. Serve the sautéed mushroom over the beef tenderloin. for the Pan-seared foie gras A touch of vegetable oil 60g of fresh, sliced foie gras salt pepper Heat a pan on high and add a touch of oil. Sear the foie gras on both sides until brown. Take the foie gras off the pan and place on a kitchen towel to rest.

Season the foie gras with salt and pepper. Serve it alongside the steak

Vitral Syrah

by Vina Maipo

WHY THEY MATCH PERFECTLY Vitral Syrah by Vina Maipo is a distinct Chilean wine. This shiraz has a medium bodied structure with just a hint of tannins. The spiciness of the wine doesn’t overpower the palate yet stands up nicely to the beef tenderloin.

The Place: raffles g +855 (0) 23 981 888 p raffles.com/phnompenh

These wines are exclsively distributed by celliers d’Asie and available everywhere in Cambodia Siem Reap Sihanouk, Kep & Kampot Battambang (855) 63 964 409 (855) 34 934 155 (855) 53 953 855

Phnom Penh (855) 23 986 350

47

geek

iPHONE 6

 ismail vorajee

The bigger the better?

“No one is going to buy a big phone.” That was according to Steve Jobs, the late co-founder and CEO of Apple, back in 2010. Four years later and Apple has dropped its conventional wisdom and unveiled its two newest iterations of the iPhone - the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus, each with considerably larger screens than previous models. The screen of the iPhone 6 measures in at a healthy 4.7 inches, while the 6 Plus boasts a 5.5 inch “Retina HD” display. Both are substantial upgrades from the 4.3 inches iPhone 5S owners are accustomed to.

Apple’s hallmark clean design is still evident with the iPhone 6. The phone is encased in a glorious full glass front and a slick aluminum backplate embossed with Apple’s signature logo.

It is a departure from the boxy look of the iPhone 5, with Apple opting to return to the friendlier and possibly more ergonomic iPod touch design.

The phone is thin, perhaps excessively so. At 6.9 mm, it is the thinnest iPhone device to date.

And despite being considerably bigger, it tips the scales at a mere 129 grams. The phone’s elegant design is somewhat tarnished by the two thin plastic antenna strips on the backplate.

They are, no doubt, a functional necessity. Apple does not want a repeat of the antenna issues that plagued the iPhone 4 upon its release. Unfortunately, it blemishes an otherwise clean design.

48

An impressive camera >> The device benefits from a brand new A8 processor, making it faster than the 5S to play games and switch apps. It is the first iPhone to come equipped with the NFC chip, although its use is limited to the upcoming Apple Pay system. But, like previous generations, their standout feature is the camera.

Prospective buyers will be pleased to learn the camera in the iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus remains incredible. The 8 megapixel shooter captures breathtaking shots thanks to Apple’s handy new ‘focus pixels’ sensor.

It easily handles low-light conditions and is capable of taking high-resolution panoramic photos with aplomb. The camera can also

capture slow-motion videos at 240 frames per second. A gimmick for some, however, the results can be hypnotic.

But the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus has its limitation and some detractors are pointing out a ma jor design flaw.. In the pursuit of creating a supremely thin handset, the camera lens protrudes from the device. This not only makes it impossible to lay the phone flat with the screen facing upwards but, more importantly, makes the camera lens prone to being scratched. It is a problem Apple has acknowledged but downplayed in their marketing, removing the aberration in its advertising.

The most expensive smartphone >> The iPhone 6 and 6 Plus are considerably more expensive than Android equivalent devices such as the Moto X or upcoming Samsung Galaxy Note 4, coming in at $649 and $749 respectively off-contract. Despite the high price tag, the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus remain the must-have device in Cambodia.

And even though the phones have yet to hit stores across the country, online sites are already offering Apple’s newest handset at double the price.

Meanwhile, Android fans, most notably Samsung owners, will no doubt scoff at Apple’s phablet attempt. Samsung released their first successful large format phone back in 2011 with the original Samsung Galaxy Note. Three years later, the series is nearly in its fourth generation. The Note 4 is set to feature a massive 5.7 inches of screen real estate.

Though Apple arrived to the big phone party late, it has done so in particular Apple fashion, by trumping its competition. Both the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus are truly gorgeous devices backed by a huge app ecosystem.

They are bigger and better than Apple’s previous efforts with Apple pushing the

design boundaries to create possibly its most aesthetically pleasing iPhone to date. And with more than 10 million units selling on the first weekend after their release, it seems the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus are the large screen phones the masses have been waiting for.

And Apple delivered. Again. }

49

hypemaker events extra

stories from the past Yay Khan

 marina shafik

50

A

t 9.30 a.m., riverside is a deserted land with only a sporadic tourist in sight or a fisherman out on the river and little else on the horizon.

While walking along the boardwalk with my translator, I started to realize my hopes of meeting an elder on riverside, at that hour, is like searching for a spring in the Sahara.

Suddenly, a woman appears out of nowhere and approaches us. Her skin is browned deeper by the sun and her smile reveals a kind heart. Is she a mirage? My translator flashes a knowing look..The woman, named Yay Khan, sells lotus flowers near Wat Ounalom.

“Lotus flowers are very symbolic in Buddhism,” Khan explains. “They grow in muddy water then rise above the murk to bloom .” To me, her words mimicked how Cambodia is rising beyond its turbulent history.

“I grew up in the countryside, in Kampong Speu”, she continued “My family worked in the rice fields. When it wasn’t raining I would often come to Phnom Penh to sell flowers. I am still doing this today.”

Yay Khan described how she and her siblings would spend entire days, with their bare feet submerged in water and backs hunched over, pulling weeds from the fields. They would carry two baskets, one strapped to their waists, another on the ground by their feet..

A wide brimmed hat or a krama helped them get some relief from the burning tropical sun.

“Life was not easy back then, but the conversations I had in the fields and the opportunity to sell flowers in the city made my life a bit sweeter.”

Yay Khan recounted how the monsoon rains would eventually return the fields to their vibrant green colour. She loved to contemplate the annual changes in the landscape; everything looked new and yet familiar.

Two ladies interrupt us to buy some lotus flowers and incense. When they leave, Yay Khan returns to sit next to me along the river.

She tells me about her age.

“It's very hard for me to say when I was born

“In the ‘60s I was just a child but I can't forget the magical atmosphere during Khmer New Year.

Back then, we didn’t have electricity so we stayed up under the warm light from an oil lamp, chatting, eating, playing and laughing, sometimes until sunrise.” because, at the time, people didn’t keep birth records. But I know that I was born in the year of the monkey, so I should be about 60 years old,” she lamented. “In my life I didn’t have many highlights but I have a few memories that still make me smile.”

“I was 15 when the king visited my hometown. Preparations for the royal ceremony were in full swing and, since I loved to dance, I was chosen to perform in front of His Royal Highness Norodom Sihanouk. I even got to shake his hand!” Her eyes lit up with enthusiasm.

She tells me how she danced “Sva Rom Monkey”. She could see Dy Saveth on stage.

“I remember she had these big expressive eyes and was so beautiful!”

“In the ‘60s, I was just a child but I can't forget the magical atmosphere during Khmer New Year. Back then, we didn’t have electricity so we stayed up under the warm light from an oil lamp, chatting, eating, playing and laughing, sometimes until sunrise.”

“At the end of the ‘70s, I got married to a nice man from my hometown. We had a very simple ceremony as we were all extremely poor during the Pol Pot regime. We loved each other so much we had eight children together. Now I am a grandmother of 11.

We continue to live in Kampong Speu, but I still like coming to the city to sell my lotus flowers.”

As I leave Yay Khan offering me a flower. }

51

T OF PLAYLISN TH THE MO

DJ Shades, resident DJ at Duplex, provides What’s Up magazine with a spicy playlist filled with some sexy, old school tracks. Ladies, this playlist’s for you.

1// “Where the Party at” - Jagged Edge Classic Party starter gets people thinking the party is right were there at.

2// “Return of the Mack“ (Big Room Hype Remix) - Mark Morrison Classic fun dance song.

3// “Too Close” (Party Mix) - Next I only use the track’s hype intro to transition into “This Is How We Do It”.

4// “This is how we do it” - Montell Jordan Classic party jam.

s e d a h S J D I started to DJ in the early ‘80s. I remember growing up listening to Stevie Wonder, Smokey Robinson, The Temptations and The Spinners with my father. My Mother is Thai so I also have a love for Southeast Asia. I have to admit, I enjoy classic jams and love integrating the old with the new. My secret as a DJ is to play to the women in the crowd. If you get them on the dance floor the guys follow.

I think that’s what sets me apart from many of the DJs in Cambodia. I like to show people that good, old school music can still make for great club bangers. Many new songs being released now use sampled beats from classic songs, but many new DJs don’t have a clue about the history and origins of new music.

5// “It wasn’t Me” - Shaggy Classic dance song and a local favorite

6// “Get Busy” - Sean Paul I transition to faster music but it’s a good dance song.

7// “Hips Don’t Lie” - Shakira One of the most requested dance songs by women.

8// “Crazy in Love” - Beyonce This is like an anthem for women.

9// “Blurred Lines” - Robin Thicke Great transitional dance song.

10// “Billie Jean” - Michael Jackson Classic

11// “Jong Bon Propoun” (Remix) - Khemarak Sereymon Local Favorite

53

street style

Sithivong 21 year old From PHNOM PENH

Loves to shop at Olympic and Pencil markets. LikeS Vampire

Neath 20 year old

movies. Her idol is Kristen

English Literature

StewarT

student at IFL .

Pencil and Orrusey markets are her favorite spots

54

Poi

Taero

18 year old

20 year old student at

student at DMC

Setec (majoring in design)

(Department of Media and Communication) Loves to watch Game of Thrones, travelling and blogging

street style Syra 

meas srey nich

19 years old from PP Loves to shop at TTP Got her T-shirt from 10k skate shop, Shorts from Thailand and Shoes from Siem Reap

55

cocktail As Cambodia’s thirst for cocktails grows, bars are popping up everywhere selling everything from buckets of e-numbers to crisply mouth-watering elixirs. What's Up lends a hand to help you serve up a slice of the latter, for a fun cocktail-slurping night that tastes great, but doesn’t break the bank.

COCKTAIL

OF THE MONTH by the latin quarter

the gin mountain ingredients: 1 handful of Thai Basil 1/2 a yellow lemon 50ml of gin 25ml of simple syrup 20g of grated green mango 1g of chilli salt Ice Garnish

method Gently muddle basil together with the half lemon and gin at the base of a cocktail shaker. Leave to sit for 10 minutes. Add simple syrup and grated green mango. Shake well over ice and double strain through a fine sieve into a chili salt rimmed, ice filled glass.

Garnish with more basil.

 where?

The Latin Quarter E g p i

56

Corner St. 178/19, Phnom Penh 093 319 081 www.thelatinquarter.net Latin Quarter Cambodia

This cocktail is inspired by the gin-basil smash created by Jörg Meyer at his Le Lion - Bar de Paris in Hamburg, Germany in 2008.

Inspired by the whiskey smash, this gin based, basil flavoured drink is now one of the most popular contemporary cocktails.

© Scott Sharick

“Unmissable” Lonely Planet, 2014

Nightly at 8:00pm

TOP

Siem Reap Attraction

Book now! +855 (0)15 499 480/ 92 225 320 ticketing@pharecambodiancircus.org www.pharecambodiancircus.org

highlight & gloss

 Anna Mischke

Hairs the Thing Drastically changing your hair colour is like entering a new relationship: you’re not quite sure how it will turn out and it requires time, money, and patience. It’s also an action that once you take can’t be reversed. Sure, if you don’t like the new hue you can always have it coloured over. But you’ve already touched your hair with a dye that will ultimately change the colour of that strand until it grows out entirely.

Since hair colour is now becoming one of the biggest ways for both women and men in Phnom Penh to express themselves, learning what works for each individual has become more important.

When I decided to change my raven hair to a silvery platinum blonde last October, it was a massive transformation and one that requires continuous maintenance. But I’ve seen girls try to go blonde and it turns out an orangey mess, while others don’t consider the upkeep and constant attention it needs. If you’ve decided you want to go for a big change and colour your natural locks a striking ruby red, bombshell blonde or ebony black, make sure you’ve thought through the process, how it will look (consider your skin tone, makeup and wardrobe), whether you’re willing to visit the salon every month for touch ups and if you have a qualified colourist who can give you the results you want.

I know a thing or two about the world of dyes, toners, glosses and rinses.

That’s not to say my tresses are in tip-top condition, but it’s important to know the tricks to keeping your coloured hair as healthy as possible before stepping into the salon for a drastic makeover.

1

Use a shampoo and conditioner made specifically for colour treated hair. Any other treatment will strip the dye and it will likely fade to something you didn’t want or expect. Invest in hair products that will both lengthen the life of your colour and properly cleanse.

2

Don’t wash your hair every day. The oils your scalp naturally produces are important for your hair follicles, strengthen the overall bond of the hair and keep your coif healthy. If you’re prone to an oily scalp, use dry shampoo as it will soak up excess oils without stripping your scalp.

58

3

Use a UV protective spray. Yes, even your hair needs protection. The sun’s biting rays can change the colour and dry out the strands.

So spritz away before heading out the door, especially if you’re planning to spend lengthy amounts of time under the sun.

Deep condition and/or use a hair mask at least once a week. Whether you’ve stripped your hair colour entirely or added heaps of chemicals to darken, your mane is going to want some tender loving care. Use a deep conditioning treatment to fend off breakage.

If you’re short on product, unrefined coconut oil will do in a pinch. It’s a fantastic natural way to add moisture to both your hair and scalp and you’ll smell perfectly tropical.

Simply douse your entire head with the oil (Argan also works great), throw it up in a bun, put on a shower cap if you want to protect your clothing and furniture, and leave it on for as long as you want before shampooing.

5

6

Be careful with the hot stuff as in curling irons, straighteners, crimpers, or anything else hot that touches your hair. Since you’ve already altered the natural state of your tresses, it’s going to need extra care. Use a heat protection styling spray before using heated tools and adjust them to a low temperature.

4

Make sure your colour extending shampoo is right for your new colour. For blondes, a purple or silver shampoo will tone down canary or brassy yellow until your next appointment.

For auburns or brunettes, a colour depositing shampoo or gloss will help keep your colour looking fresh and radiant.

7

That old T-shirt you were thinking of tossing out? Keep it and use it in place of a towel.

The friction from a rough towel can cause breakage and dryness, but a soft cotton shirt helps keep the natural moisture in your hair.

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hypemaker events recipe Miam Miam, the international French-Japanese fusion café/ restaurant recently opened in Aeon Mall has teamed up with What’s Up Magazine to release the secrets of their awesome signature soufflé. A soufflé is a lightly baked cake made with egg yolks and beaten egg whites combined with various other ingredients and served as a savoury main dish or sweetened as a dessert. Will you be up for the challenge?

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soufflé Ingredients: Melted butter, for greasing 2 free-range egg yolks, plus 4 free-range egg whites 6 rounded tbsp caster sugar, plus extra for the ramekins 3 rounded tsp cornflour 1 rounded tbsp plain flour 90ml/3¼fl oz double cream 110ml/4fl oz full-fat milk Icing

sugar,

for

dusting

(optional)

method: 1. Bring 1 cup of the milk to just steaming in a medium saucepan set over lowmedium heat. Stir together 4 tablespoons of caster sugar, flour and corn flour and egg yolks until it forms a smooth batter.

2. Slowly whisk half of the hot milk into the batter, making sure to combine the ingredients until they are completely smooth. Add the tempered batter back to the hot milk in the pan and bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring constantly. Stir and cook the mixture until it has thickened, for about 1 minute. Stir the double cream into the mixture and allow it to cool at room temperature for 10 minutes.

3. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites on medium high speed until they become foamy, and then add the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Continue beating the egg whites on high speed until they hold stiff glossy peaks.

4. Gently stir 1/3 of the egg whites into the batter mixture, then carefully fold in the remaining whipped egg whites. The mixture should be evenly coloured and light and bubbly, without egg white streaks or marbling.

5. Spoon the soufflé mixture into the buttered ramekins and allow it to rest, covered, for up to 30 minutes or bake right away at 200°C for 25 to 30 minutes until the soufflé has risen with a crusty exterior. Serve the soufflé with a dusting icing sugar .

miam miam F Aeon Mall ` Miam Miam Cambodia p www.miam.sg

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Battambang-based artist Nicolas C. Grey has teamed up with frequent collaborator James Farley to tell the stories of the world’s most (in)famous gurus.

October AGENDA 4

Songs Ska Influenced...Don’t forget to bring Your Skanking Shoes !!!

@ D Club

SAIGON ROCKERS (For the 1st Time in Cambodia!)

Daddy K

DJ Daddy K born Alain is involved into the Hip-Hop culture since day one. He started his passion for this culture in 1982 with the breakdance and became with his group ‘Dynamic Three’ the European Champion in 1986.

As a Hip-Hop Lover he touched all the aspects of the culture but he is more attracted by the art of DJ’ing.

He putted his first ‘scratch’ in Studio on the first Rap Record made in Belgium called ‘Brussel Rap Convention’ and then became the Dj author compositor of the Famous group ‘Benny B’. (First on the chart during three years in France and Belgium).

I Free entry

11

JAMAICAN OLDIES NIGHT : JAHZAD + SAIGON ROCKERS ( Vietnam ) + WAT A GWAAN @ Slur Bar

Jahzad The best & only Ska band in Cambodia will take you to the old School Sounds of Jamaica, With Their unique Horn Section and most Groovy rhythm part... Expect Classics from TOOTS & THE MAYTALS , PRINCE BUSTER, JAMAICAN CLASSICS, Revisited JAZZ STANDARDs & Even some Classic Khmer

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SAIGON ROCKERS is a Sound System crew and international Collective who started the Reggae scene in Saigon in 2008. They are committed to bring quality live Reggae music to Saigon and the rest of Vietnam, spread positive vibrations and educate the youth Through their several Regular gigs in Ho Chi Minh City (MAD FYAH, REGGAE SUNDAY, AFTER HOURS RAGGAMUFFIN...)

They Will Be Representing the Vietnam Reggae Scene for the 1st time at SLUR BAR with DJs DAN LO , K-ONE, SAWJI & MC TAKAO !

WAT A GWAAN Phnom Penh’s own Reggae Crew WAT A GWAAN will be Hosting The Night ! DJ BREE (Phnom Penh’s Top Dj!) alongside MC KAZTET D ( the most versatile and fastest French MC in The Area ) will be playing their own mix of roots reggae music to digital sounds with a Touch of Asian and Cambodian made sounds. No. 28, St. 172

FLOWERS IN THE ATTIC @ D-Club

D-club invites everyone to join us at the Spirit of Woodstock. We will be celebrating a night of PEACE, LOVE and MUSIC !!

Music : Retro Mash Ups. Massive line-up : Illest, Alan Ritchie, Paul Aldair feat Phil .

Dress code: Flower Power.

The Fumes @ Equinox

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Women - A Show Box Exhibition @ Show Box

Developed in collaboration with Myley Rattle and Conrad Keely and showcasing several upcoming Khmer artists, ‘Women’ celebrates women that have influenced, brought change and developed humanity from a variety of cultural contexts.

Free wine and finger food on opening night.

Show Box No. 11 St. 330

17

Ro Campbell – Comedy Night @ Equinox

Australian comedian Ro Campbell will storm the stage of Equinox on Friday October 17, with tickets priced at just four US dollars.

Brought to you by Bruntys

cider – which will available at the discounted price of $2 per bottle on the night – with co-sponsors Monument Hotel, Giant Ibis Bus Company, The Flicks Community Movie Houses and Buffalo Sister Restaurant. Doors open at 7:30pm with showtime set for 8:30pm.A support by from Scottish stand up Steven Halcrow, with compatriot Roddy Fraser as MC. No. 3A, St. 278, Phnom Penh g023 6767 593

THE TASTE OF A MAESTRO

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Kimchi Collective’s Big, Big Birthday Bash with ‘Vandetta’ live } @ Code Red

31

Scare Box: Halloween @ Show Box

Ok all y’all Girls and Ghouls get ch-all self s ready now, for the scariest, floor shaking-est, ghoul gathering seen since the last Scare Box!!

Scare Box presents its first annual Halloween Romp Party.

Starting in the early evening with games and a special Spooky menu. Then dance it up to some funky beats spun by the scariest DJs in town till late.

Prize for the best dressed.

First 15 people in dress up get a free beer!!

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY

Phnom Penh Siem Reap Sihanouk, Kep & Kampot Battambang

(855) 23 986 350 (855) 63 964 409 (855) 34 934 155 (855) 53 953 855

S O S ge]

[pa

Happy!

Happy Hours in Cambodia

phnom penh

Fire station 666 or 118 Ambulance 119 (from 023 phones) Police Hotline 117 (from 023 phones) ChildSafe Hotline 012 311 112 You can call the hotline 24 hours / 7 days a week if you see a child in a risk situation.

Whenever possible they ask the caller to stay near the child until the team arrives to take appropriate action to protect the child.

Transparancy International Corruption Reportage Hotline 1292 (MOBITEL, METFONE,BEELINE, QB) 7777 (SMART and HELLO)

SIEM REAP

Tourist Police 012 402 424 Ambulance 063 761 119 Fire Station 012 784 464

50% off cocktails from 4PM to 9 PM @ Raffles le Royal, Phnom Penh Buy one get one free (cocktails + non alcoholic drinks) including tapas from 5PM to 7PM @ Palate Angkor, Siem Reap

Sihanoukville Police 097 778 0008 Ambulance 081 886 666 Fire Station 016 606 342

Buy one get one free cocktail from 6PM to 7:30PM @ Mezze Bar, Siem Reap

Battambang

Buy one get one free on local beers and cocktails from 5PM to 7PM @ Sailing Club, Kep FREE BEER from 6:30 to 7PM @ Showbox

Livfeer!

Sa

Tourist Police 092 999 995 Fire Station 053 953 222

kampot

Got a funny What’s Up story, a question, a problem, or a dire emergency that for some reason can wait until the next issue comes out?

Tourist Police 097 778 0010

Email pierre@wuppmag.com and we’ll sort you right out!

Tourist Police 012 414 118

Ambulance 033 932 289

kep

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wuppmag .com

WHERE CULTURE MEETS CONTEMPORARY LUXURY Your ideal stay is waiting at Park Hyatt Siem Reap.

Come enjoy a decadent lounge, two swimming pools, exquisite French and Cambodian cuisine and refined luxurious rooms in the heart of downtown Siem Reap.

Reservations +855 6321 1234 or visit siemreap.park.hyatt.com Sivutha Boulevard, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia

The trademarks HYATT™, PARK HYATT™ and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation. ©2014 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.

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