Freesurf Magazine 9-7 JUL 2012

t

Free in Hawai’i July V9#7 freesurfmagazine.com

r

a

v

e

l

India photo : Alan Van Gysen

FERGAL SMITH

design unlikely futures / analogclothing.com

ip f r e e

p a r k i n g

First surfed back in 1973, Bali’s Padang Padang has challenged the greatest barrel riders for the past four decades.

Here, an unknown charger looks to score the wave of his life on the Bukit Peninsula.

Photo : Jason Childs / A-Frame

N

O

54 Mikala Jones Hawaiian Globetrotter

16 Editor’s Note Paradise Found

Table of Contents

24 Travel Get Lost

80 Last Look For the Love of the Barrel

10 Free Parking Island of the Gods

60

Volcom Fiji Pro 2012 As Good As It Gets

V9

V9#7 July India Photo : Alan Van Gysen

E d i t o r i a l Publisher : Mike Latronic Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Managing Editor : Matt Luttrell Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : Chance Carpenter Associate Art Director : John Weaver Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Copy Editor : Lauren Shanahan

Free Thinkers : Casey Butler, James Stone, Jordon Cooper Staff Photographers : Eric Baeseman, Tony Heff, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock

C o n t r i b u t i n g

P h o t o g r a p h e r s

Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Chris Burkard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Quincy Dein, Patrick Devault, Jeff Divine, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Dave Homcy, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Mike McGinnis, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Tom Sanders, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Pake Salmon, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jessica Wertheim, Jimmy Wilson.

apple ‘n greens

S a l e s

replenish

& stiavy act e

full serving of fruitss and veggies

A d v e r t i s i n g

I n q u i r i e s

Manuele Inc. info@freesurfmagazine.com 808-638-7395

JMB-052212-WP-1058

rehydrate

Senior Sales Executive : Sean Wingate Advertising Executive : Shaun Lopez Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed

Catch Billabong Surf TV Mondays at 1:30pm, Tuesdays

at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine

at 2pm and 7:30pm, Wednesdays at 1:30am, Thursdays

surf shops and select specialty stores

at 4:30am and 4:30pm, Fridays at 12:30pm and

throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up

Saturdays at 3:30am and 9am and Sundays at 7:30am.

FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and

And don’t forget Board Stories on

select newsstands. Ask for it by name

Mondays at 2pm,

at your local surf shop!

Tuesdays at 5pm and 8:30pm,

Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com

Wednesdays at 2:30am and 9:30am, Thursdays at 5:30am and 5:30pm,

Other than “Free Postage” letters,

Saturdays at 2:30am and 7:30am and

we do not accept unsolicited editorial

Sundays at 9:30am and 4pm.

submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf,

www.jambahawaii.com

Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com

A product of Manulele, Inc. 2012

SUPER-VEE

Following the trend of shorter/wider performance boards, this shape is awesome in small to head high surf. A mild concave with Vee out the back gives this board great drive and there's no bogging or pushing water when the wave slows down. Coming off the top or landing airs the board remains stable and positive. The outline is well balanced, with the width you desire in this type of board, especially under the feet, but the tail block itself is not excessively wide. You get the skate but you also have control. The wid Super Vee makes groveling something you will actually enjoy.

u yo Full If e . av tch ard. r h a l wil u c g bo me " o m log ve y lon e su ro in ret st wa le f for th " g 's ir an e f sin ect org n th assic Per f M o l . r , t uit en a c the ets ar of fur il w app ents no a t k i s er s i ed oo av nes ingr en l e h t h b ur oo the er", t yo m ll d Its s n, a e-rid n ! g a s s i es ay es no rdi r d il d ic oa e fo re ta stalg b . as os ua no u nv e n sq t " alib ca n th nd r tha t M r a u o a yo out o m ng f line off tto ki st ping bo loo n the u D m ee en w ca s, V be r do hip u ’ve kiki o yo Wai in

SIC

S AU

CER

C

S LA

With of sp a low ro c the eed. Ma ker and S get aucer d king it th wide po w o and ith wide esn’t g rough th int for wa ra con ditio r board b and e flats is rd, this b s. fits ns. A o n blas This little well in o proble ard cat ch t! th m boa rd is e pocke . Unlike es wav e reall t. y ve Also m most wid s easily a rsatil is e an sing is t e nose nd gen era he b d ca n ha quirkin oards, th tes ton es s ndle e a wid s you so nose o f m e va riety etimes of siz es

Hand shaped designs

by Steve Morgan

By following the time-honored tradition of shaping surfboards 100% by hand, Steve Morgan retains a personal connection to each and every surfboard he builds. Enjoy the ride.

Ala Moana Center

Street Level, Mauka

808-973-6780

www.hicsurf.com

Is there anything better than going on a surf trip?

Just the thought of going out in search of tasty foreign waves and a little bit of adventure is enough to start researching kayak.com for cheap airfare. The surf trip has been a key component to the surfer lifestyle since a young surfer from Kauai, named Kahikilani, came over to Oahu with the kahunas to surf his neighbor island’s waves.

The wanderlust of the road, and of scoring great waves in far off lands, is something that consumes us all.

Back in 2009, I had the good fortune to take a six month trip around the world with my wife. The second stop of our trip was New Zealand. We rented a camper van in Auckland and drove all around both the North and South Islands. Our first stop was the small coastal town of Raglan. Ever since I had watched Bruce Browne’s The Endless Summer over two decades ago prior, I had long dreamed about surfing Raglan’s famed point breaks.

Photo : Cory Scott

Editors Note Raglan is Mecca

For a goofy-footer, Raglan is Mecca. Home to one of the greatest left-handed point breaks in the world, Raglan was more than just a wave to me, it was my quest. The elation I felt when we arrived at Raglan’s parking lot that April afternoon was palpable. I couldn’t get my wetsuit on quick enough. After suiting up, I danced over the rocks at Whale Bay and paddled out. Once in the water, with the smell of smoldering pine wood wafting over the lineup, I felt contentment without even having caught a wave. I marveled at this strange development. As if on cue, a wave swung wide. I spun, took off, and pumped down the long and glassy emerald wall. After what felt like an eternity, I kicked out with a giant smile plastered on my face. My pilgrimage was complete. - Matt Luttrell

r

a

t w

r i

a d

v Location : Tonga Photo : Michael Kew

t

Planning a travel issue is always a tricky endeavor for the staff of a surf magazine. Much brain power is expended trying to nail down which destinations should be featured in a travel issue. Should we base our travel destinations purely on wave quality? Should affordability play a factor? And what about consistency? No one wants to go on a trip and get completely skunked. Despite our best intentions, readers always send us letters incredulously asking, “How could you leave

this place off of your list?! You donkeys blew it!”

With so many countries and waves to choose from, the crew here at FreeSurf tried to highlight a wide variety of locales; from island’s fraught with perfect waves, countries in South America with thousand of miles of coastline, and even an exotic island chain that the most seasoned surf traveler has probably never heard of. Regardless of what place we

v e

did or did not feature, we pray that at least one of these destinations gets you stoked about planning your next surf trip. If your not stoked, something is wrong with you, because very few things in this world are as sweet as scoring some tasty waves in a foreign country with your best friends.

Travel safely FreeSurfers.

e

l

e

l

Photo : Rod Owen / A-Frame

Australia If one nation on earth exemplifies the term “surf country,” it would undoubtedly be Australia. Ever since Duke Kahanamoku traveled to Australia and introduced surfing on Freshwater Beach back in 1914, Aussies have been enamored with the Hawaiian Sport of Kings. Not only do Aussies love it, but surfing is treated as a legitimate sport Down Under, with surf news actually being broadcast on the national news and newspapers giving coverage to events.

95% of Australia’s population lives along the coast. With 22,292 miles of coastline, Australia is loaded with some of the world’s great-

est reef, point break and beach break setups.

Intrepid surf travelers can score some of the best, and least crowded, waves of their life with just a little preparation. Even though it is no longer as cheap to travel around Oz since the Aussie dollar is now as strong as the US dollar, thrifty surfers can still manage to make a surf trip down under affordable.

Who doesn’t love Victoria Bitter beer, meat pies, and driving on the left hand side of the road? If Australia is THE surf country, then Sydney is THE surf city. Chock full of gorgeous beaches, Sydney is loaded with waves.

Sydney’s Northern Beaches alone have a high

percentage of quality waves. From the peaking Wedge at Whale Beach, to the slab at Little Avalon, to the perfect sand banks of North Narrabeen, down to Manly’s fickle point break at Fairy Bower, Sydney offers a variety of waves for all skill levels.

While you could easily just stay in Sydney and have an epic trip, nothing beats hopping in an Ute and taking a drive up the coast of New South Wales. NSW’s coast is littered with point breaks and is guaranteed to be a surf trip you will never forget.

Photo : Noyle / A-Frame Surfer : Joel Centeio

Language : English Rule of the Road : left-hand traffic Water Temp : 64f 18c Best Months : jun-oct Currency : Australian Dollar Avg Exchange : $1 - 0.983 Beer Price : $6.43

Photo : Alan Van Gysen Surfer : Craig Anderson

India While you have certainly heard of the Maldives, you probably have not heard about Lakshadweep. Comprised of 36 islands, Lakshadweep is located right next to the Maldive Islands. Just like the Maldive Islands, the Lakshadweep archipelago has some of the most gorgeous turquoise blue waters in the world.

And just like the Maldives, Lakshadweep has some epic waves.

However, a surf trip to Lakshadweep is no easy mission. Reaching these tiny is-

lands, which are a territory of India, require long flights and even longer boat rides. And then there is the possibility that you will get skunked while you sit around waiting on the islands beautiful beaches. While the waves can get epic, it takes some luck for the right swell to make its way to these remote islands. And as if that is not enough, those fearsome and pesky Somali pirates regularly cruise through these islands, hanging out on some of the deserted islands, so there is the possibility you might get kidnapped and held hostage.

Still, if you are looking for an adventure and empty perfection, Lakshadweep is one of your best bets. Before you book that flight to India, the crew here at FreeSurf would like to remind you of Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard’s famous quote, “It’s not a real adventure until something goes wrong.” Indeed.

Photo : Alan Van Gysen

Language : Malayalam Rule of the Road : right-hand traffic Water Temp : 79f 26c Best Months : apr-aug Currency: Rupee Avg Exchage : $1 - 55.95 Beer Price : not sold

Photo : Celso / A-Frame

Brazil is home to the most surfers on the planet. It should make sense that this South American country is a surfer’s paradise. More than just the gorgeous beaches of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil possesses a little over 5,000 miles of jagged coastline, playing host to an endless string of Atlantic Ocean beach breaks. Nearly the entire country’s coastline offers plenty of options to adventurous surfers looking for their own slice of paradise.

While internet surf forum commentators love to disparage Brazil’s wave quality, this past year’s Billabong Rio Pro proved that every spot has its day, serving up perfect barreling waves for John John Florence’s maiden WT victory. But if Rio isn’t your scene, and you’re looking for a little more power than the city has to offer, head to Fernando de Noronha.

Ask any traveling pro surfer with over 20 stamps in their passport and they will tell you one of their favorite destinations is the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. These 21 islands are a little over 200 miles offshore from the Brazilian mainland and are known for some powerful waves. Surf writers dubbed these islands as Brazil’s version of Hawaii, and trust us when we say, it wasn’t just in reference to the volcanic origins of the place.

Photo : Pete Frieden / A-Frame

Language : Portuguese Rule of the Road : right-hand traffic Water Temp : 68f 20c Best Months : may-aug Currency : Brazil Real Avg Exchange: $1 - 2.048 Beer Price : $1.75

Photo : Jimmicane Surfer : Matt Meola

Mentawais The Mentawai Islands of Indonesia are surf nirvana. Period. Blessed with some of the greatest waves on the planet (does Macaroni’s, Lance’s Right, and Greenbush ring a bell?), the 70 (or so) Mentawai Islands flank the western end of the island of Sumatra.

With no landmass between these islands and Antartica, the Mentawai’s are bombarded with Indian Ocean swell from April through late October.

Indonesia has long been a dream destination for surfers. Ever since the island of Bali, and

specifically the wave at Uluwatu, was immortalized in the classic 1972 surf film Morning of the Earth, surfers began arriving by the dozens to sample the machine like Indian Ocean waves. As the crowds increased, the adventurous pushed further west, eventually arriving in the Mentawai’s in the 80s.

Now whenever the Mentawai Islands are mentioned, most of us begin frothing about the dream boat trip we have always wanted to go on. Thirty to forty boats ferry surfers through these remote islands that are home

to some of the most perfect waves on Earth.

And we all have friends who have been on one of these amazing trips. What makes it worse is that these friends never seem to stop yapping about how great the trip was.

If you are looking for perfection, look no further than the Mentawai Islands. What are you waiting for? Start saving you pennies now kids.

Photos : Jimmicane Surfer : Granger Larsen

Language : Silabu & 8 other dialects Rule of the Road : left-hand traffic Water Temp : 80f 27c Best Months : may-sept Currency : Indonesian Rupiah Avg Exchange : $1 - 9426.

Beer Price : $2.02

Photo : Billy Watts Surfer : Daniel Jones

Tonga The Kingdom of Tonga doesn’t exactly pop up in most surfer’s minds as a South Pacific surf destination the same way that Fiji and Tahiti do. This is a shame, since Tonga is home to some epic, and very uncrowded waves. Sure, you’ve seen the odd picture of Tonga in surf magazines over the last 20 years, but since Tonga has yet to host a World Tour Event, the country has kept a low profile.

This South Pacific nation is comprised of 176 islands. Since only a third of these islands are inhabited, the potential for discovering uncharted waves is a high probability. Just ask Daniel Jones. The Rocky Point local recently took a trip to Tonga, and with the help of Google Earth, discovered a perfect left hander that to everyone’s knowledge was unnamed.

Everyone likes to believe that in this day and age everything place on Earth has been mapped. The Kingdom of Tonga is proof that the dream of surf exploration is still alive, as long as you are willing to go and search for it.

Photo : Billy Watts Surfer : Daniel Jones

Language : Tongan Rule of the Road : right-hand traffic Water Temp : 73f 23c Best Months : may-sept Currency : Pa’anga Avg Exchange : $1 - 1.786 Beer Price : $2.27

THE

spyoptic.com

JUICE

IS

WORTH

THE

SQUEEZE

/ BEN BOURGEOIS wears the HELM

Photo : Chris Burkard / A-Frame

New Zealand The Land of the Long White Cloud is also the land of epic surf. With some of the friendliest people on earth, not to mention a plethora of sheep, New Zealand is oftentimes described as how California was back in the 1950s. Wide open spaces abound. It seems like around every bend in the coast another empty, perfect wave lies waiting.

A good wetsuit is key to exploring New Zealand. During the autumn and spring the water can be chilly, even on the North Island. But despite the cold water temps, the locals are some of the most laid back surfers you will ever surf with. Surfing at Raglan, New Zealand’s most well known and crowded spot, the local surfers are surprisingly mellow.

Of course, there is much more to surfing in New Zealand than just Raglan. Mount Taranaki offers amazing waves, and views, for the adventurous. If you don’t mind the cold, and you have an epic wetsuit, surfing on the South Island of New Zealand will make you think you are surfing in Middle Earth. This shouldn’t be a surprise, the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed extensively on the South Island.

Photo : Chris Burkard / A-Frame

Language: English Rule of the Road: left-hand traffic Water Temp : 59f 15c Best Months : jun-sept Currency : New Zeland Dollar Avg Exchange: $1 - 1.256 Beer Price: $3.87

Maui

Whalers Village, KaĘťanapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove

Photo : Kirfa Lens Surfer : Flynn Novak

Have you ever dreamed about surfing a single wave for over a mile? In Peru, your dreams can become a reality. Peru is home to the world’s longest wave, Chicama, a perfect lefthand point break. This South American country is a goofy footer’s wet dream, with 80% of the waves being lefts.

Not only is Peru a country steeped in world class waves, the region has a very long, and somewhat surprising amount of surf culture

behind it. Peruvians claim that surfing was first practiced by fisherman on the shores of what is now Peru. These fisherman rode reed boats, called caballitos, dating back to at least back 1000 BC, and perhaps even as far back as 3000 BC. Whether this was an ancient South American recreation or simply the quickest way back to shore, no one is quite certain. However, in modern times, Peru played host to the 1965

World Surfing Championships at Punta Rocas in Lima, with former Hawaii state senator Fred Hemmings taking 2nd place.

Peru’s 1,500 miles of coastline catches both South Pacific, as well as North Pacific swells, making it one of the most consistent places to score surf on Earth. Who doesn’t want to take a surf trip to a place where you are pretty much guaranteed waves?

Photo : Kirfa Lens

Language : Spanish Rule of the Road : right-hand traffic Water Temp : 64f 18c Best Months : may-aug Currencey : Nuevo Sol Avg Exchange : $1 - 2.648 Beer Price : $1.38

H E A D P H O N E

TANK

P L A T I N U M

TAY L O R K N O X

KEALA KENNELLY

Photo : Brian Bielmann / A-Frame

Whenever surf magazines mention Tahiti, all minds immediately think of one wave and one wave only, Teahupoo. It’s hard not to. In the last decade, it seems that Chopes has taken over Pipeline’s mantle as the most celebrated wave in the surf world. The wave’s bone crunching perfection has all surfers in awe of its sheer power. Yet, Tahiti is loaded with other great, uncrowded waves.

Since practically every break in Tahiti requires access with a boat, you are going to need to make a Tahitian friend or hire a local surfer to guide you. This won’t make your trip cheap, but damn if it isn’t worth it. With the most pristine blue water you have ever seen, Tahiti is THE idyllic island paradise.

Since the 80s, Tahiti has been one of the premier destinations that surfers from Hawaii have escaped to in order to combat our home’s sporadic south summer swells. Tahiti is also one of the greatest surf trips to bring your wife or girlfriend. Seriously, have you ever heard of a person on this planet who hasn’t wanted to take a trip to Tahiti? Exactly.

Photo : Baeseman Surfer : Raimana Van Bastolaer

Language : French Rule of the Road : right-hand traffic Water Temp : 75f 24c Best Months: may-sept Currency : French Pacific Franc Avg Exchange : $1 - 94.58 Beer Price : $5.38

NATHAN CARVALHO

Photo: Joe Foster

TM

HEBIE

INTRODUCING THE DIZM ECO COLLECTION FEATURING HANDMADE RB CELLULOSE ACETATE Handmade RB Cellulose Acetate is a 100% Renewable and Biodegradable (RB) plant based material. As opposed to being made from post consumer recycled products, our optical quality frames are made from renewable raw materials: cotton, wood and palm oil. With the appropriate environmental conditions the frames will decompose into water, carbon dioxide and biomass. No, they will not decompose on your face. Meets compliance with the American and European certification for biodegradation. These frames are lightweight, durable and allow for a variety of vibrant colors.

WWW.DIZMEYEWEAR.COM

Photo : Mikala Jones Surfer : Mikala Jones

Mikala Jones has surfed in more countries than you can probably name.

Growing up at Rocky Point, Mikala honed his surfing on the North Shore’s greatest waves. While best known throughout the surf world for the stylish grace he exhibits racing through gigantic barrels, Mikala is equally as adept punting airs in the smaller stuff. This versatile surfer splits his time between the North Shore of Oahu and the island of Bali. An adventurer that loves to seek out hidden, uncrowded waves, Mikala has recently gotten quite handy with a camera. FreeSurf caught up with Mikala in Bali to find out about his past, present and future.

Photo : Brad Masters Surfer : Mikala Jones

Bali has a cool surf vibe.

Different to Hawaii but the same in many ways.

1) Where did your wanderlust for traveling come from?

I definitely got the travel bug from my parents. They both left home at an early age to go to high school in Hawaii. My Mom is from the Big Island and my Dad is from Northern California. They met in high school on Oahu and traveled the world. I grew up listening to their travel stories and looking at photos of them before they had us. They kept traveling after they had us as well. My earliest memory of life was when we were in Tahiti when I

was three. I still remember every little detail.

Fish, boats, cars, beaches, everything. They say your life starts at three years old. I believe that for sure.

2) When did you first start splitting time between Bali and Oahu?

I started splitting my time between Bali and Hawaii in 2000. I met my wife here in Bali, and her family had been here for ages. That is around the time I shifted from surfing contests to free surfing. We used to spend win-

ters at Rocky Rights and summers here, and I would still go on a lot of trips in-between. I still go on a lot of trips. We had our first daughter in 2005 and when she started school here in Bali we decided to focus on her education rather then keep pulling her out during winter time. So the winters are getting shorter in Hawaii. We still get over to Hawaii 2 to 3 times as a family. Or I just go alone for a few weeks then we all go back together. Even when I do a surf trip I try not to go longer then three weeks. I really like doing 4-5 day strike mis-

sions. I don’t like 2-3 day trips, I feel it’s too short. I’d rather surf for 4-5 days.

3) When was your first trip to Bali? What do you remember most about that first trip?

I was thirteen years old. My dad brought both my sister and I to Bali. When we pulled up at Kuta Beach it was firing. We surfed Uluwatu and Padang was even breaking. We went to Nusa Lembongan as well. But the icing on the cake was our ten days at G-land. There

were only 15 guys on the entire point. I think back about that trip and realize how lucky we are to have a dad that liked to surf and travel.

It was a pretty amazing trip. Thanks dad. It’s cool to see how many ocean and beach orientated families there are in Hawaii now. It’s like the new soccer.

4) Bali has become quite a popular spot for pro surfers/filmmakers to have a home. Taj Burrow and Taylor Steele come to mind.

How would you describe the appeal of Bali

to someone who has never been there before?

Bali has a cool surf vibe. Different to Hawaii but the same in many ways. The culture is different. The people here are extra friendly and always willing to help you out. Hawaii is special because they are preserving it. And that will always keep it Hawaii. Bali is growing fast, and rice paddies are turning into houses and hotels. The traffic is pretty bad as well.

And the price of living has gone up a lot.

Photo : Brad Masters Surfer : Mikala Jones

While best known throughout the surf world for the stylish grace he exhibits racing through gigantic barrels,

5) If you couldn’t live in Bali half the year, what other place in the world might you decide to live and surf for 6 months?

There are a few places for sure. Africa, Europe, some little island in the middle of no where. Maybe one day when our kids are grown up I’ll live on a boat and be on the move. We have been talking about moving back to Hawaii full-time in 20 years.

6) I read recently that you nearly drowned after bursting your eardrum on a heavy wipeout. Are you all recovered and back in the water?

I’m back in the water now. I actually still get a little vertigo every now and then. I went back out to the same spot three weeks later and packed a nice one. It felt good to redeem myself. That entire thing was an eye opener. It’s pretty easy not to come back. I’ll sit around and just be thankful for everything.

7) As a surf traveler, would you have rather been exploring the waves of the world back in the ‘70s when traveling offered a bit more of the unknown?

For sure. I love listening to the older guys tell stories about their surf explorations. I just sit

back and listen. That is, if they wanna share their stories. I have heard some cool tales of surf travel over the years. That is what really keeps me excited for new trips. They’re so many people out there with different and unique stories. Most of these stories you would never hear unless you meet the person in some random spot in the world.

8) How many virgin waves have you discovered throughout your career?

Probably none. People have been everywhere.

9) FreeSurf has heard you have started taking a lot of photos. When did you decide to jump behind the camera?

My dad has been shooting pictures since before I was born. I did photography back in the 5th grade. I know a bunch of surf photographers, and I’ve been traveling and doing photo trips since I was fifteen. My first real trip was with Don King, Sonny Miller and Ted Grambeau to the south atolls in the Maldives.

Pancho Sullivan was on that trip as well. My first cover of Surfer Magazine was shot by Art Brewer. I’m not sure where I’m going with that. I can sit here and list every photogra-

pher I have ever worked with. They are all so talented. And each and everyone has a style of their own, but they’re all shooting surfing.

That is the cool thing about photography. I don’t really shoot that much since I surf for a living. If I’m with my brothers we will mess around. It’s like learning your trade, I like to shape and mess around. I also like to mess around with a camera, But I’m a surfer. They all go hand in hand I guess. It’s all fun at the end of the day.

10) What is the most important lesson that traveling has taught you?

There are a few. Always listen to your elders, they know what they’re talking about most of the time. Smile. It goes a long way. I always try to make friends with local people, they know the best spots to eat.

11) Since you have traveled all over the world in search of surf, where is one place you are still jonesing to go and explore?

Hmmmmm. I’m not sure, There’s still a lot of places on my list. Somewhere cold, I haven’t worn a full suit in a year.

BACKPACKS FOR EVERY SITUATION QUIKSILVER.COM

Photo : Robertson / ASP Surfer : Reef Mcintosh

Volcom Fiji Pro Its been 4 long years since the world’s best surfers last had the opportunity to test their skills at a contest in Fiji. When it was announced late last year that Volcom had stepped up to bring the World Tour back to Tavarua, surfers and fans alike were beyond stoked. It also got the crew here at FreeSurf wondering if the wave gods would smile on Volcom yet again. After scoring epic waves for the Volcom Pipe Pro these past 3 years, could Volcom be blessed once again during their maiden World Tour event? The answer from Poseidon was a resounding yes. Either Volcom’s founder and president Richard

“Wooly” Woolcott is the luckiest man in the world, or he has sold his soul to the devil, because Volcom scored one of the greatest swells Fiji has ever seen. But you already knew that, unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past month.

scores

Photo : Kirstin / ASP Surfer : John John Florence

How good was the contest? It could arguably go down as one of the greatest contest’s ever, only comparable to the 2011 Billabong Tahiti Pro. With an abundance of swell, the Volcom Fiji Pro got underway during the first day of the contest’s waiting period. Six foot Cloudbreak offered up Round One’s competitors deep, roping barrels. John John Florence surfed a flawless first heat, continuing his campaign of brilliant surfing in competition.

The biggest news of Round One was Kelly Slater being relegated to the loser’s round by

wildcard Mitch Coleborn. Day two continued with flawless surf. Mr. Slater regained his mojo and beat local Fijian wildcard Isei Tokovu in the slightly smaller conditions at Cloudbreak. And rookie sensation Gabriel Medina rebounded after a disappointing round one performance to post a solid win and nabbing the events first perfect 10 point ride.

Despite good waves on offer over the next three days, contest directors decided to wait on the huge swell building in the southern pa-

cific. After three lay days, competitors awoke on the sixth day to monster waves detonating on Fiji’s reefs. The macking surf had competitors wondering if they had the right equipment, and after only two heats, the contest was called off for the day. An international crew of big wave chargers took to the Cloudbreak lineup, and proceeded to rewrite what was deemed possible to paddle while the webcast continued to broadcast live.

Photo : Kirstin / ASP Surfer : CJ Hobgood

Hawaii boys Kohl Christenson, Mark Healy, Reef McIntosh, Kala Alexander, Makua Rothman, Danny Fuller, and even WT’er John John Florence all caught some of the best big waves of their lives. But it was Chilean Ramon Navarro who arguably nabbed the ride of the session, managing to catch a bomb and successfully riding the foam ball on his 9 foot gun.

Photos : Kirstin/ASP Photos : Kelly Slater

PRESENTS

WYLAND

Rounds three and four were run the following day at perfect Restaurants. Despite the perfection, and the incredible performances laid down by John John, Slater, CJ Hobgood, and Owen Wright, the day felt a tad anticlimactic due to the previous days monstrous swell.

The Volcom Fiji Pro wrapped up the following day back at Cloudbreak. After looking unstoppable, John John’s amazing momentum was finally halted in his quarterfinal heat against two-time world champion Mick Fanning.

Yet in the end, the final day belonged to the King, Kelly Slater. Finding the best waves and surfing brilliantly, Slater dispatched of Julian Wilson, CJ Hobgood, and an in-form Gabriel Medina for his 49th World Tour victory. Slater proved once again that in the world’s best waves, he is nearly invincible. All hail to the King.

Also Featuring:

WALFRIDO

DAVID WIGHT

STEVEN POWER

KONIAKOWSKY • COLLEEN WILCOX • DERUBEIS and many more..

WYLAND GALLERY HALEIWA WYLAND GALLERY WAIKIKI North Shore Marketplace Waikiki Beach Walk 66-250H Kamehameha Highway 270 Lewers Street, Suite I-102 Haleiwa, HI 96712 Honolulu, HI 96815 808-637-8729 808-924-1322

www.signaturegalleries.com

Friends, Family, Fun

HOKULANI’S STEAK HOUSE Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner

Kea‘au Shopping Center Old Volcano Road, Keaau, Hawaii 808-966-5560

Photos : Kirstin / ASP

Congrats Kelly on your 49th WT victory !

©2012 Luxottica Group. All rights reserved.

COMES WITH EXTRA SET OF INTERCHANGEABLE ARMS

It’s time once again to support one of the greatest legends of our sport, Rabbit Kekai, and his annual fundraiser. To be held on July 20th, from 5:00pm to 10:00pm, at the Outrigger Canoe Club, the evening will feature great food and live music, as well as a silent auction, to raise money for the Rabbit Kekai Foundation. With tons of great surf memorabilia, and even a hand-shaped George Downing 11’ Gun, to bid on, this is one night you don’t want to miss. For more info, check out rabbitkekaifoundation.org

slands

pacific i

indo reservations specialist

sean walker 877-617-1328

maldives

ore...

and many m

www.worldsurfaris.com sean@worldsurfaris.com

AFFILIATED WITH

montrose travel cst# 1018299

Michael Scott Moore, a journalist and surfer from Manhattan Beach, California, has been held hostage in Somalia by Somali pirates for the past 5 months. Moore, best known for his fantastic book Sweetness and Blood, which detailed how surfing spread from Hawaii to the rest of the world, had traveled to Somalia back in January to write about the infamous Somalian pirates. After only two weeks, Moore was taken hostage. On May 20th, Moore’s kidnappers released a video of Moore answering scripted questions, with pirates standing behind him holding rocket launchers. The kidnappers are demanding $20 million to release the journalist. Currently, various groups in Somalia are holding close to 300 international hostages.

Have you ever wanted to take a luxurious surf trip with some of surfing’s biggest legends? Now is your chance. Described as the world’s most luxurious surf event, the 2012 our Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy will see Tom Curren, Martin Potter, and Mark Occhilupo do battle on single-fins, twin fins and thrusters come this August in the Maldives.

kaleimaeole

handcrafted jewelry

Earth friendly Fine Silver Sunrise Shells and other designs available online at

www.96712jewelry.com or at the

North Shore CouNtry Market Open Saturdays from 8 am - 2pm

FreeSurf Magazine Instagram Tag your best summer surf Photo shot with #summerswells and @freesurfmag.

Contest Winning photo will be

published in FreeSurf and will win their choice of HIC Boardshorts from HIC or a Bikini from Roxy Kailua.

Enter now!

Not only will you be rubbing shoulders with three of surfing’s biggest legends, you will also get to stay at the ultimate surf resort, the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, a five star resort that is located right next to six world class waves. For more information on this epic event running from August 27th through September 2nd check out www. surfingchampionstrophy.com

WWW.SURFSKATE.COM

THE ART OF FREE MOTION

With Oahu’s recent decision to ban plastic bags in 2014, here at FreeSurf we hope this has inspired you FreeSurfers to minimize your consumption of plastic.

spaghettini

6/9/06

3:28 PM

Page 1

Open Daily from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm In the heart of Haleiwa

637-0104

Surf with a smile

Dr. John

Jones Dentistry

808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814

Similarly, photographer Chris Jordan has been documenting plastics toll in Hawaii by taking photos of albatrosses on Midway Island, or Pihemanu, that are either dead or dying from ingesting plastic. Jordan is now in the process of making a film. Check out the trailer and help him get this thing made by donating some dollars. Visit http://www. kickstarter.com/projects/midwayfilm/join-the-midway-film-project

... all you need is love!

815 Front St. Lahaina, HI 96761

151 Hana Hwy. Unit 1 Paia, HI 96779

808.661.6888

808.579.8882

(Located between Kimo’s & Cheeseburger In Paradise)

(Paia Courtyard Market)

Shop online at www.pakaloha.com

Waimea Valley is a wonderful venue for Special Events: Weddings, Receptions, Birthday Parties, Workshops and Seminars. Please call for Event Planning, Facility Rentals and Catering Information.

59-864 Kamehameha Highway Hale`iwa, Hawai`i 96712 (808) 638-7766 www.waimeavalley.net Open 7 days a week from 9:00am to 5:00pm

l a s t

l o o k

On a day that saw only a handful of the world’s best surfers paddle out to giant Cloudbreak, a group of Hawaii big wave chargers threw down some amazing performances during the Volcom Fiji Pro’s live webcast. Kohl Christensen, steep and deep.

Photo : Kirstin / ASP

Surfer : Kohl Christensen

L

L