AUTUMN 2013
STYLE COUNCIL LIFESTYLE | CULTURE | SIGHTS & SOUNDS
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X-PRESS FASHION AUTUMN
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On the cover Narcisa wears Romance Was Born dress from Zara Bryson $350, wooden necklace from Pigeonhole $39.95, 1960s sunglasses from Bluebird Vintage $155.
STYLE COUNCIL
A monument to modernist architecture in the heart of Perth’s CBD, Council House celebrates its 50th year in 2013, and to celebrate, X-Press Fashion was invited inside its hallowed halls to shoot our Autumn editorial, paying homage to the sensational ’60s architecture with suitably retro inspired fashions. From high fashion to the high street, ’60s fashion is back in a big way this Autumn and Winter, with more mini skirts, pointed shoes and geometric prints than you could poke a Mad Men DVD box set at. To find out more about Council House and the architects, designers, artists and City of Perth staff members who contributed to its build and restoration, flick over to page 10 for a look at the building’s illustrious history, and be sure to check out the exhibition which will be on show in the building’s foyer until May 23. Read on for fashion news, trend forecasts and plenty of ideas on ways to make it through the cooler months without going stir crazy. From all of us here at X-Press Fashion, we hope you have a warm and wonderful Autumn, and encourage you to make the most of this season’s opportunity to combine the trends and silhouettes of yesteryear with contemporary creations. Emma Bergmeier X-Press Fashion Editor
Council House: The glazed pavilion-like entry foyer of polished granite floors, black ceramic-tiled ceiling and piloti clad in white Sicilian marble and black mosaic tile hints at WA’s sun-bleached landscape. PUBLISHER/MANAGER: Joe Cipriani EDITOR: Emma Bergmeier DESIGN: Kasia Mazurkiewicz SALES & MARKETING MANAGER: Keeley Warren-Langford LIFESTYLE: Natasha Bederson PRODUCTION: Uli Mauersberg RECEPTION: Casey Hayes ACCOUNTS: Lillian Buckley DISTRIBUTION: distribution@xpressmag.com.au Published by: Columbia Press Pty.Ltd. A.C.N. 066 570 803 Registered by Australia Post. Publication No PP600110.00006 Suite 53/102 Railway Parade, City West Business Centre, West Perth, WA 6005. Locked Bag 31, West Perth, WA 6872. Phone: (08) 9213 2888 Fax: (08) 9213 2882 Warranty and Indemnity: Advertisers and/or their agents by lodging an advertisment shall indemnify the publisher, and its agents, against all liability claims or proceedings whatsoever arising from the publication. Advertisers and/or their representatives indemnify the publisher in relation to defamation, slander, breach of copyright, infringement of trademarks of name of publication titles, unfair competition or trade practices, royalties or violation of rights or privacy and warrant that the material complies with revelant laws and regulations and that its publication will not give rise to any rights against or liabilities in the publisher, its servants or agents. Any material supplied to X-Press is at the contributor’s risk. No responsibility will be taken by the publisher, its servants or agents.
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X-PRESS FASHION AUTUMN
On this page Narcisa wears top $199 and pants $199 from Gorman at enex100, House of Holland sunglasses from Poppy Lissiman Addition $249, Runway heels from Betts $99.99
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curiosities ‘60s Sensation
HOUSE OF HOLLAND SUNGLASSES Poppy Lissiman Addition $249
ALADDIN PUMP Mimco at enex100 $249
METALLIC SPOT CLUTCH Asos.com $41.06 NOIR NIGHTFALL EARRINGS ZaraBryson.com.au $99
COLOURBLOCK KNIT JUMPER Karen Millen at Wesley Quarter $195
REFRACTION BAG Melissa at enex100 $69.95
TREEHORN BANGLE ShopMoose.com.au $47 GOLDEN GATE LINEN DRESS FROM Gorman at enex100 $269
MIDAS FLATS Betts $69.99
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SHEER SPOT SOCKS Gorman at enex100 $19
PANNIKIN STAR AND OVAL EARRINGS ShopMoose.com.au $25
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DRAW INSPIRATION FROM THIS SEASON’S KEY TRENDS
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MOD-ON
JOIN THE GILD
GRAPHICA
FLOWERBOMB
Make it black and white and twist all night… Get your mod on with clean cuts, sharp lines and box bags in punchy monochromatic patterns.
Go for baroque with lavish embroidery, monumental prints and embellished everything. From top to toe, there isn’t one accessory that wouldn’t benefit from a bit of extra oomph – get gilding!
Buy it, use it, break it, fix it, trash it, change it, mail – upgrade it… to the technologic new take on patchwork. With slabs of biting colour and luxe textures, Aunty Beryl’s quilting project this ain’t. Block in lots of leather, the more reptile the better.
Dark florals, digitally enhanced naturals, patterns that spin on forever…layer up print on print on print for a botanical explosion.
X-PRESS FASHION AUTUMN
Words and illustrations by Claire Mueller
Council House in 1962
Council house Decades of Design BUILT IN JUST 18 MONTHS – SO THAT IT WOULD BE FINISHED IN TIME FOR THE COMMONWEALTH GAMES IN 1962 – COUNCIL HOUSE CELEBRATES ITS 50TH BIRTHDAY THIS YEAR IN FINE FORM WITH AN EXHIBITION THAT LIFTS THE LID ON THE COLOURFUL HISTORY OF THE ST GEORGES TERRACE NDMARK. In a surprisingly modern move, the Perth City Council launched a competition in 1959 to find the perfect design for the building, and 61 entries were received from architectural firms Australia wide. Melbourne based architects Jeffrey Howlett and Don Bailey came up trumps with their modernist design that would stand alone amongst the colonial era buildings that dominated the Terrace at the time. In the decades since Queen Elizabeth II officially opened Council House, the modernist structure has elicited varied responses from residents and architects alike, some of them not always favourable. In fact, Council House nearly didn’t make it to the big 5-0, with calls from state commissioners to demolish the building in 1994 after it was vacated for the removal of asbestos. Thankfully for lovers of ’60s architecture, the building was restored rather than demolished, and it still stands proudly surrounded by Stirling Gardens on the corner of Barrack Street and St Georges Terrace. Perth Lord Mayor Lisa Scaffidi counts Council House as one of her favourite city structures, and is thankful that calls for its demolition went unanswered. “This building engenders such pride in people these days but there are those who in the early ’90s considered it to be ugly and not fitting with the area’s surrounds. But thinking has turned around over the passing of the years and now its characteristic ’60s style is upheld and recognised and today it is considered as fashionable now as when the Queen cut the ribbon in 1963!” she enthuses. “The City of Perth Council and staff cherish this home as much as the people of Perth adore it too and for that a great deal of credit must go to the architects and other people of Perth who so strongly campaigned to save it. The Stirling Gardens that surround it and the way it lights up the
Terrace with colour at night does make it a place that so many people, not just those who work inside, can enjoy.” Building such an impressive structure with the technology and equipment available in the early 1960s was no easy feat, particularly the T shapes on the building’s exterior, which just so happen to be the Lord Mayor’s favourite design detail. “Without doubt the most powerful impression comes from the T shapes on the building’s exterior. There are 460 of them to be exact and attaching them perfectly in place was a very intensive job indeed. Working out how to tessellate them so they wrapped seamlessly around all sides of the building was quite a mathematical conundrum which our site foreman was able to solve very cleverly with some piano wire, a lead weight and a 44 gallon drum! “Two men (no safety harnesses, mind you!) spent seven months up on a plank in the air while each one of these beautifully made Ts from the Monier factory, covered in mosaic tiles, was hoisted up by a crane and they were positioned and cemented on. The Ts have practical purposes of acting as sunshades and also as fire barriers between floors but they also give the building a civic and celebratory demeanour I think that’s unlike many other office buildings in the City.” If you’re interested in finding out more about Council House, be sure to head down to 27 St Georges Terrace between now and May 24, to wrap your peepers around the anniversary exhibition, which features original work by a range of Western Australian artists including Maggie Baxter, Helena Bogucki, Sandra Black, Andrew Nicholls and Denise Pepper. For more info visit perth.wa.gov.au/50years. by Emma Bergmeier
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STYLE COUNCIL Photography by Aaron McPolin Styling by Emma Bergmeier Beauty by Ali Price Manicure by Heidi Eves Assistant Stylist: Hannah Kasmadi Models: Narcisa & Lee @ Scene Narcisa wears Steele dress $289 and Mezi earrings $199 from Zara Bryson, Lucite purse from Bluebird Vintage $225, Sienna pump from Betts $79.99. Lee wears Austin coat $699, tie-pin shirt $219 and pants $299 from Calibre at enex100, Lucky dress shoes from Betts $139.99. Architect Jeffrey Howlett’s Coat of Arms sculpture was made in darkened copper by Perth jeweller Geoffrey Allen, acknowledging WA’s sun, swans, and sixth monarch Queen Elizabeth II.
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Narcisa wears dress $249, coat $329, scarf $119 and socks $19 from Gorman at enex100, daisy brooch from Bluebird Vintage $55, Eclipse heels from Betts $89.99. Specially woven carpet was designed by the architects to feature a geometric reflection of the exterior T motif in blues and mauve, emphasising the natural timbers of the upper floors.
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Narcisa wears vintage dress from Bluebird Vintage $95, Pedro Lourenco for Melissa heels from Melissa at enex100 $90.
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Narcisa wears dress from Poppy Lissiman Addition $170.
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Narcisa wears check dress from Poppy Lissiman Addition $200, Love/Hate stockings from Pigeonhole $39.95, Midas flats from Betts $69.99.
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Narcisa wears vintage dress from Bluebird Vintage $85, coat from Gorman at enex100 $369, necklace from Poppy Lissiman Addition $260.
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Rachael Shaw Rachael is one of Perth’s leading young emerging hair artists, she started her career at Perth’s city salon Head Office Hair and Body, and then following her apprenticeship with time at Head Studio King St. Rachael’s career has already encompassed numerous award entries and fashion shows in addition to editorial styling for Perth’s magazine scene.
Tom Jarvis Chilli Couture’s latest recruit; Tom Jarvis, started hairdressing at the tender age of 15 years at Toni & Guy and fell in love immediately with the hairdressing industry. Now, 7 years on, after having worked a stint in Melbourne, Tom is permanently back in Perth and living his dream as a boutique senior stylist. Tom’s portfolio includes working backstage at various David Jones runway shows, working on performances for Leg Avenue and assisting photo shoots for labels such as Dillettante. Tom also is very experienced at designing hair for wedding parties and personally loves styling and blow-drying out hair for special occasions. A brilliant colourist; Tom is also inspired by matching an amazing cut to his unique colour designs and draws his inspiration from music, nature, fashion and street art.
Ph 9328 8814
Rachael’s extensive expertise centres around creating beautiful long hair, she also enjoys precision men’s cutting and working with classic designs as well as contempory ‘indie’ styling. Rachael has set her sights on expanding her creative portfolio with ambitions to compete in numerous photographic awards throughout the coming few years and is excited to have that opportunity with the Chilli Couture’s creative team. Rachael is available Tuesdays to Fridays and Friday nights at Chilli Couture. Australian Hair Fashion Awards 2013 Finalists: Chilli Couture - Artistic Team of the Year Rachel Walker - West Australian Hairdresser of the Year Laura Jane Gladman - Mens Hairdresser of the Year Lauren Nathan - Salon Manager of the Year Chilli Couture - Training Provider of the Year
| 3/117 Brisbane Street, Perth 6000 | info@chillicouture.com.au | www.chillicouture.com.au
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Lost in a manic pixie daydream LOVE TO HATE HER? OR HATE TO LOVE HER? JENNIFER PETERSONWARD TAKES A LOOK AT THE INCREASINGLY POPU R INDIE ROM-COM TROPE - THE MANIC PIXIE DREAM GIRL. In the world according to Hollywood, men are often portrayed as almighty and powerful - the heroes, saviors, protectors (I could go on) - but sometimes all that pressure can really overwhelm a guy. Enter the Manic Pixie Dream Girl - that girl who exists solely as a vehicle for the angsty, tightly-strung (and usually white) heterosexual male lead to discover himself and make peace with the world around him. A few years ago a very witty film critic named Nathan Rabin coined the term ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ (otherwise known as a MPDG) to describe a female character archetype he’d noticed popping up increasingly in indie films with a romantic slant. Though you may not have heard of the term, you’ve most certainly encountered the stereotype: she’s the the free-spirited, usually happy-go-lucky (though sometimes dry and sarcastic - but still always likable) romantic lead who breaks hearts, but still wins affection with her quirkiness and crazy antics. She is, wrote Rabin, “that bubbly, shallow cinematic creature that exists solely in the fevered imaginations of sensitive writer-directors to teach broodingly soulful young men to embrace life and its infinite mysteries and adventures”.
Rabin’s definition of the term first appears in a 2007 A.V. Club review of Cameron Crowe’s 2005 rom-com Elizabethtown, starring Kirsten Dunst as a flirty, flighty chatterbox stewardess for whom Orlando Bloom’s brooding protagonist falls. Due in no small part to the way the term rolls off the tongue, in recent years the MPDG moniker has popped up in film criticism to describe – among others - Natalie Portman in Garden State, Kate Hudson in Almost Famous, Kate Winslet in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, Audrey Tautou in Amelie and Zooey Deschanel in basically everything she’s ever been in (see: (500) Days of Summer, Yes Man, The New Girl). The archetype has even been back-dated to describe female characters in classic screwball comedies - such as Katharine Hepburn’s giggly, scatterbrained heiress character in 1938’s Bringing Up Baby and Sally Field as the perky, surfing Gidget in the 1960s sitcom of the same name. However, as Rabin clearly defines, MPDG characters tend to be divisive. “The Manic Pixie Dream Girl is an all-ornothing-proposition,” he writes. “Audiences either want to marry her instantly (despite
(500) Days Of Summer
The Manic Pixie Dream Girl being, you know, a fictional character) or they want to commit grievous bodily harm against them and their immediate family.” What he means is that for every girl inspired to don a sundress and thick-rimmed glasses while cycling through the streets on a wickerbasket-adorned fixie (and if the last few years of fashion have proven anything, it’s that there are a lot of girls willing to cash in on this ideal) there’s someone ready to rant about the lazy screenwriting and unattainable romantic ideals these characters so frequently represent - case in point being feminist blog Jezebel’s oft-cited description of the MPDG as “the scourge of modern cinema”. Both views are valid, of course, but perhaps it is easier to simply view MPDG, as her name suggests, as nothing more than a dream. As US comedienne Mindy Kaling (in an editorial for The New Yorker) so aptly put it: “The Ethereal Weirdo (or MPDG) appears in a lot of movies, but nowhere else. If she were from real life, people would think she was a homeless woman and would cross the street to avoid her.”
Elizabethtown
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Grey MATTER MAC Zoom Fast Mascara
S
participated in illegal duplicate product sales. If they are proved real – regardless of how old or what condition the product is in – they will have dipped their toe in the grey market.
Target is still insisting that it purchased the products via a legal wholesaler, whilst MAC is adamant they did not. Regardless, this choice might have stayed unnoticed if the brand had been a different one - beauty bloggers, journalists and internet-shopping enthusiasts can all tell you that a MAC product sold at full price is still suspicious, and a MAC product sold at less than full price is blatantly fake/illegitimate. If the products are proved as fakes – and the court case looks to be ongoing – then Target will have inadvertently
There are very few beauty lines subject to as much imitation as MAC (another being Urban Decay – the famous NAKED palette saw handfuls of fakes crop up online), so much so that quite often the line is completely avoided except over the counter or through the MAC online store. The imitations are sometimes incredibly realistic and very difficult to spot, and even then can only be identified by setting them next to an original product. Many define a fake by how cheap it is comparable to the recommended retail price, though many sophisticated fakes sell their product at MAC prices. MAC is, more than any other cosmetic/beauty line, a minefield. It’s wise to Google extensively before purchasing – check eBay feedback, read blogs regarding online stores, and if there’s no info anywhere – don’t
ome might remember the furor over Target Australia’s stocking of MAC products mid last year, selling for 40 per cent lower than authorised retailers David Jones and Myer. The move remained mostly unnoticed for a short while, before a handful of beauty bloggers compared their own MAC products with items bought in Target and pointed out the packaging and product differences. MAC public relations were advised via social media, and the situation escalated.
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GREY MARKET COSMETICS AND SKINCARE ARE A MURKY MIDGROUND BETWEEN REPUTABLE SALE AND OTHERWISE, WITH MANY VARYING SHADES IN BETWEEN. IN THE LOOSEST OF DEFINITIONS, GREY MARKET PRODUCTS ARE AUTHENTIC, BUT CAN BE OLD, PARTIALLY USED, TESTERS OR ATTAINED THROUGH DUBIOUS MEANS (WRITTEN OFF STOCK, PR SAMPLES, ETC.). IN A BROADER SENSE, GREY MARKET PRODUCT CAN BE ANYTHING SOLD THROUGH A BODY THAT IS NOT AN AUTHORISED STOCKIST.
X-PRESS FASHION AUTUMN
do it. The online community is quick to promote reputable online sellers, whether the brand in question wants them to or not. A product being old is not always a dealbreaker, depending on the type. Most skincare – with exceptions – should be approached with caution, on two fronts. Firstly the majority of skincare is in a liquid form – or a gel, or a lotion, something with a substantial base of fluid in it. Liquids and warmth are breeding grounds for bacteria, and at the best can be considered ‘off’ when it becomes ineffective. At worst there has been documented cases of people having skin reactions to products that have undergone a gradual chemical reaction and are no longer performing as the manufacturer intended. Think of it in Legalese – if it’s over the counter, from a registered, approved seller, you have every right to demand compensation if a product you purchased makes you break out into a colossal rash.
The grey market gives you no protection on this grade mascaras (Maybellines, Revlons) are front – therefore it becomes a gamble when you more than adequate, and often better than their expensive counterparts. The success of a mascara apply one of these products to your skin. is more often graded by how old it is, and not how Secondly skincare usually has a handful of it performs. New mascaras do well, regardless of active ingredients, notably Alpha Hydroxy Acid brand. If it doesn’t behave like it should, you’ve (AHAs) and retinol (a strain of vitamin A). These got an old beast on your hands and should ditch it. compounds are mostly found in corrective skincare, With this in mind, mascara is pretty much a loseand especially in things like acne treatments and lose situation through a reseller – no one knows dark spot correctors. Whilst chemically proven to how old it is, and you’ll have no legal rights when perform on human skin, these chemicals are also it inevitably turns up old and useless. unstable – both types increase photosensitivity to light, most notably, which is an important factor in Diversions aside, liquids have the most visible our climate. Retinol almost never occurs outside deterioration when they age. Things separate, and night creams for this very reason – by the time the morph, and often oxidize into a totally different skin meets the sun again, the retinol would have color – it’s a big gamble. The only thing that is a relatively safe grey market purchase (though settled and ceased being a hazard. could be real or fake) are powders. Eyeshadows, Not all compounds become less powerful as they face powders, powder blushes. Because the age. A product with a substantial dose of AHA is product has no liquid in it, it’s static. It will remain a potential irritation even when it’s brand new, sanitised until it is touched or used, in which case and a product with AHA or Retinol that has been the natural human oil on the skin contaminates kicking around too long is a time bomb. Likewise, the powder and creates the necessary breeding sunscreen – the most vital of vital skin products, ground for bacteria. Sealed powder products can and the most often thrown in gloveboxes or live almost indefinitely – and if they’re applied boots of cars, kept around for multiple years – is with hygienic brushes, once open can also live as composed of a relatively basic combination of long as it takes to use up the product. zinc oxide and liquid agents, and if it separates through age or overheating, it isn’t going to work. One of the most common of grey market sources is Full stop. And a sunscreen that can’t be relied on StrawberryNet, a Hong Kong based online retailer whose success and phenomenal popularity is is a disaster waiting to happen. a clear image of how accepted the grey market On a less dire front, mascara as a blanket rule currently is. They are not an authorised retailer should always be bought instore. They last of any brand, and yet boast a range of more than between three to six months – yes, that is true, 200 cosmetic and perfume lines. The official it’s not just marketing – before they dry out, and statement is that product is purchased duty free even the best of well-intentioned mistakes by and shipped internationally, but even this open reputable sellers can land you with a useless statement of grey-marketing seems financially mascara. And when two weeks of that three unsound considering the drastically lower prices month lifespan are spent cooling your heels by the and free international shipping. As happens with letterbox, the low price is going to taste sour. The any huge international retailer (I challenge you to good news on a mascara front is that drugstore- find someone who hasn’t heard an ASOS horror
Invisible Zinc face & body sunscreen
story), there are accounts of products of varying quality. But StrawberryNet is also a very welloiled machine with a generous returns system, and the overall level of customer satisfaction is high. So much so that it often isn’t even recognised that StrawberryNet is a grey-market retailer, especially among those with only a middling familiarity with the term or even internet shopping as a whole. While the importance of where the product comes from depends on the person, some knowledge of how the grey market works is critical for anyone dipping their toe into internet shopping, or wondering how an unlikely brand has cropped up in an unexpected place. by Suzanne Rofe
Urban Decay Naked Palette
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SHOP FRONT CUTIE’S CUPCAKES
Cutie’s Cupcakes is a niche, Perth based business which has fast become one of the best recognised brands on the scene. Owner Amanda started out simply baking for friends and family, and through some clever positioning on Facebook and a dogged commitment to branding and presentation, has fast become one of Perth’s leading home cupcake boutiques. Specialties include decadent vanilla and chocolate cupcakes,
amazing rainbow cakes and new twists on some old favourites. For personalised flair and a unique touch, Cutie’s Cupcakes can cater for your special requests, creating a concept to suit your individual tastes. This lets you decide what you want, giving you the freedom to choose flavours, colours, toppings and casings. Delivery, set-up and tier hire are also available.
C O N TA C T : cutiescupcakes.com.au, facebook.com/cutiescupcakesperth, cuties.cupcakes@hotmail.com or 0450923251
Stocking: Razzles Pringles Pop Tarts Twizzlers Milk Duds Hershey’s Reese’s Plus a range of softdrinks, cakes and other tasty treats.
If you’ve got a case of the late night munchies and are too tired to get behind the wheel in search of snacks, fear not, because Sugar Rush will deliver candy, cake and soda right to your door. Open from 6pm until very late, seven days a week, Sugar Rush stocks every American candy brand you’ve ever daydreamed about, with new products added all of the time. Deliveries are available to selected areas within 20km of Perth. Contact: 1800 155 661, sugar-rush.com.au 22
X-PRESS FASHION AUTUMN
Launch: 11th of May
SHOP FRONT LUJOSO
SL VIRGIN HAIR AND COSMETICS
S T O C K I S T S : Ten @ Times Boutique, Avion Way, Times Square, Claremont Chateau Clothing, 2a/205 Nicholson Rd, Shenton Park
S T O C K I N G : SL Virgin Hair and cosmetics, wefts, wigs and clip-ins and Lujoso’s latest collection features designs to highlight tailoring details for a totally fresh and unique textural look. Garments are woven and hand knitted so they are ultra-light, which is best suited to the Australian climate. Like pearls and diamonds, quality stands as furs are even more versatile than ever before and can be worn with almost everything. All vests are of superior quality and are available in a variety of colours and textures to suit all manner of tastes.
eyelash extensions.
C O N TA C T : lujosofinefurs.com
C O N TA C T : slvirginhairr.storenvy.com or +61 435 764 559
SL Virgin Hair And Cosmetics provides clients with 100 per cent, grade AAA Virgin Hair. This high quality human hair can easily be bleached, coloured, straightened and curled. The hair does not tangle, it’s reusable and can last from six months to a year. Different textures are available such as straight, body wave, virgin wavy, deep wave and curly.
CHERRYBOMB BEAUTY PARLOUR
Inspired by the glamour of the 1950s, Cherrybomb Beauty Parlour offers services fit for a beauty queen. Specialising in eyelash extension for that glamorous look, Cherrybomb ensures a relaxing and safe environment for this unique procedure which won’t damage your natural eyelashes. The extensions come in a variety of length, curls,
colours and thicknesses, and last up to eight weeks. We are available Monday - Saturday with late night trading Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday nights. Check out our facebook page or website for details on how to obtain your $25 gift voucher for your first visit on any hair or beauty service.
C O N TA C T : cherrybomb@iinet.net.au, cherrybombparlour.com, facebook.com/cherrybombparlour, (08) 9277 5803
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H E A D H A I R
O F F I C E S T Y L I S T S
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Mane Tamers since 1983 Precision Colouring, Cutting and Styling with Internationally trained and experienced Stylist’s.
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