XF_Spring_2012 by X-Press Magazine

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O N TH E CO VE R TA LI S A W E A R S CA M E O S K I RT $1 1 9 . 9 5 AN D BUSTIE R $ 7 9 . 9 5 FR O M P IGE O N H OL E; M E S H T E E F R O M P I G E O N H O L E $ 6 5 , K A R E N WA L K E R N E C K L A C E F R O M Z A R A B R Y S O N $ 9 5 . Here at X-Press Fashion we covet a good floral print just as much as your beloved Great Aunt Gertrude, but this Spring, we’ve thrown caution to the wind and have ditched the florals in favour of ’90s grunge goodness. Inspired by Grimes and her laidback, contemporary grunge aesthetic (multicolour rat’s tail and all), Oblivion ignores this season’s penchant for pastels, focusing instead on shimmering metallics, pops of neon, band tees and cropped everything. Whether you idolize Courtney Love, Gwen Stefani or prefer the likes of Beth Ditto or Shirley Manson, this Spring is all about rocking bindis, bold prints in bright colours and exuding a sense of effortless chic. Read on for more inspiration than you can poke a Nirvana tee at. EMMA BERGMEIER PUBLISHER/MANAGER: Joe Cipriani EDITOR: Emma Bergmeier DESIGN: Anthony Jackson SALES & MARKETING MANAGER: Sue Blackwell LIFESTYLE: Alia Bannani PRODUCTION: Ruth Tyndall RECEPTION: Melissa Erpen ACCOUNTS: Lillian Buckley DISTRIBUTION: distribution@xpressmag.com.au

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PERTH FASHION FESTIVAL CAMPAIGN IMAGE BY PIERRE TOUSSAINT

Much loved by anyone with a stylish bone in their body, Perth Fashion Festival returns this September, transforming the Museum into a shrine for the worship of fashion. Running from September 19-25, the 2012 edition of the Festival will feature more shows, designers, models and mayhem than ever before, with a huge range of events on offer for style conscious individuals. Tickets for the seated shows are selling fast (and some have sold out already) but don’t stress if you missed out because there are also plenty of free-to-the-public events on offer. Find out what’s on and when at perthfashionfestival.com.au.

Local designer Betty Tran is set to open her very own store this September, moving in to the new Raine Square Shopping Centre in the city. Renowned for her figure hugging gowns and timeless separates, Tran’s label Betty Sugar exudes glamour, so there’s no doubt her new store is sure become popular with ladies who love a good excuse to frock up. Betty Sugar opens in September at Raine Square, which is located at 300 Murray Street in Perth.

LE O & SPAR GO WILL P OP U P AT THE FOX HUNT FOR POPSICLE BETTY SUGAR

If you love the look, feel and scent of Melissa shoes then there’s no going past Pulse Urban Clothing on Hay Street. Nestled amongst high end boutiques, Pulse is home to a huge range of Melissa shoes, including their latest (and highly coveted) collaboration with Jason Wu. Chic and affordable, Melissas are the shoe du-jour for many stylish women the world over. Check out the full range at 772a Hay Street in Perth or head online to pulseurbanclothing.

The folks at On William invite you to ‘taste-test’ 13 new local designers at Popsicle, a series of fashion events and pop ups during the week long Perth Fashion Festival. Showcasing designers such as Zahir, Trouble Bound Clothing, Leo & Spargo, Harlesden Fern, Wild Horses, Zokitee and many more, Popsicle will kick off with a huge opening night extravaganza on Wednesday, September 19, from 6-8pm and all are welcome. Punters are encouraged to head online to onwilliam.com.au/popsicle to plan their route. Be sure to pick up the collection of limited edition Popsicle pins throughout your travels.

M ETALLIC S FE ATUR E IN E LLE RY ’S S/S 1 2 C O LLE C TION

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Ah, Spring. Time of endless florals. Time of lambs.Time of September issues. And, refreshingly, time of being able to walk out of the house with bare legs and arms without someone (generally parentally inclined) saying ‘Aren’t you freeeezing?! Put a jacket on, I’m cold just looking at you!’, because let’s face it - although there is some beautiful outerwear in the world, life is easier when you don’t have to layer. Conveniently, SS12/13 fashion is all about bang for your buck, with key looks based around hard-hitting pieces that put in the work for you (and no, we shall not be referring to this as ‘lazy’ dressing. This is - repeat after me – Time Effective Style). Hot tips? Metallic finishes, neons, printed everything, sorbet brights and white-on-white… the best bit? You can mix and match all of it. ALL OF IT. Never before has a season been so kind on storage space - choose your components wisely and you’ll have an instant capsule wardrobe. Prints remain big news. There’s no escaping them, and if you’re trying to then you’d better be absolutely killing it in the silhouette/texture/drape department (or I will hunt you down and enforce mandatory viewing of the international runway shows. Seriously. Print is fun. Print is contemporary. It’s impossible to be unhappy in allover print. Dare ya). Heavy on the Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto inspiration, with a little tromp l’oeil, a little future floral and a lot of digital mash up, feel free to clash or just head straight for pieces that do it themselves, splicing panels of pattern across the body or blocking on contrast sleeves. Couldn’t quite bring yourself to brave a printed suit over winter? Perhaps it’s less overwhelming when there’s less of it - a fully flowered shorts suit is sure to put a spring in your step. For those willing to go the whole shebang you can complete the look with flower-scattered pumps, a bejeweled clutch and statement necklace. Belt the jacket over a structured white dress for work, pair the shorts with neon flats and a knit for Sunday brunch. See? Double fun as a set, but double duty in the real world.

“AS SURE AS THE SUN GLINTS OFF BHP’S CORE CUTTERS IN THE MORNING, FA S H I O N I S H AV I N G A M E TA L M O M E N T. ” Aim for confec tion perfection in citrus and sorbet tones, both traditionally creamy and amped up like Zooper Dooper icy poles. Entire outfits of mint or pink are pretty, but these softer hues look best this season juxtaposed with obnoxious brights. Pale blue dress with fluoro pink pumps? Definitely. Lilac top with road-worker-orange skirt? You bet. Neon yellow is the easiest to incorporate as it goes with everything (except, strangely, more neon yellow. Probably a good thing

or Vogue would have recruited most of our fair state long ago) – just start with a belt or jewels and build up to more coverage if you’re sure you’re in no danger of getting asked to direct traffic or do any steel fixing. Gold, silver, copper, the tinny cordial tones of those metal cups someone always had at a picnic… pick your colour, but make it burnished. Metallic leather is huge for structured skirts and statement jackets, molten high shine fabrics make for Oscar-statuette worthy

dresses, even shoes are chrome dipped. Go mental for metal in the accessories department. Better-inpairs Wonder Woman style bangles or a well placed ear cuff will add value to any outfit (though let’s try for more flash than brash please… very few people can pull off ironic ghetto, let alone real ghetto, which means bling or gold lamé bomber jacket, not both at once). While no one actually came out and said you can’t mix and match metal tones or run the risk of looking like a tri-colour eternity ring – there’s nothing wrong with it per se, but it doesn’t really pack a punch like a slick platinum band – so probably best to stick with a single element from the Periodic Table (or alloy! Don’t mind a bit of Pewter as long as it isn’t in the form of a Medieval relic). It doesn’t get easier than matching white with white (unlike black where shades of fade rather expose your laundering prowess, no one seems to mind if your Eggshell doesn’t quite blend with your Ecru), and hurtling towards a WA summer there’s a lot to be said for head-to-toe heat reflection. Fresh and uncomplicated, white works for feminine lace just as well as it does stronger structure and good old jersey. Don’t feel you have to be sporting a tan for this to work (hell, it’ll add to the effect if you’re not). Do keep the Napisan on standby. If that all sounds a bit girly/eye-poppingly loud there is a subtler approach to be taken. Sportsluxe is still running rings around us, and Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang and Dion Lee do it with style. Take their marks and expose toned torsos and lean legs in monochrome tailoring with unexpected cutouts and magic floating panels (by which I actually mean ‘suspended by mesh’, but from a distance it’ll look like the only thing holding up your fantastic frock is your fantastic rack, which is definitely something to be marveled at). Perforated leather, washed silk and highdensity knitwear bring new life to track shorts, raglan tees and racer cut dresses.

N E O N S, PASTE LS A ND P R I NT S GA LO R E AT T H I S Y E A R ’ S P E R T H F A S H I O N F E S T I VA L L A U N C H

Go to accessories? Baseball caps are back (and they can’t be faulted for practicality – sun protection as well as a sneaky fix for hiding probably-shouldhave-washed-it hair. Logos mostly won’t cut it. Leather definitely will), pumped up kicks (literally – Isabel Marant’s concealed wedge sneakers have taken the style set by storm. A height boost AND comfort?! This is one fashionable shake up. There are affordable versions on every corner, work them with washed out denim and a camo parker for ‘so IT girl I haven’t changed since I bought my first CD single’ 90s edge or use to anchor floaty florals) and clutch bags with personality (needlepoint, encrusted jewels, tribal weaving, stickers… if it’s so OTT it’s verging on ridiculous, put your stuff in it and carry it around).

Gents’ fashion is positively archetypal this season. If you choose a casual approach then look back to ’70s surf and ’90s skate for a slightly cocky carefree attitude (as opposed to the I-spent-20-minutes-with-abrick-and-an-iron-crumpling-thisshirt hipster carefree attitude) – you want to look like you’d scrub up alright if someone forced you to, but your awesome lifestyle doesn’t require it. Denim reigns supreme, so build a wardrobe of different washes in shirts, shorts and jeans. Throw a pair of tan or burgundy chinos into the mix for days when you’re not feeling the tonal blues. If your (I’m sure no less awesome) lifestyle does require a somewhat more tailored look take inspiration from (the soon to be huge, thanks Baz) Jay Gatsby from

F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, or the dapper chaps from the Tommy Hilfiger Meet The Hilfigers campaign (god those are good, it’s like Wes Anderson was actually there). Slick, schmick and totally chic, you need some serious style and a cheeky glint in your eye to pull off a linen three-piece suit, but if you can, power to you (also, here’s my number, call me maybe? Jokes aside, expect swooning). Nostalgic prints (in blue tones especially) work back with your staples and, like the ladies, don’t be afraid to pattern clash, but keep it effortless – a printed shirt collar peeping over a cotton Fair Isle knit is enough extravagance to show that you’ve got your finger on the pulse, but not trying so hard you’ll induce a heart attack.

As is the case with any form of classicism, subtle details will put you in good stead. Invest in nice eyewear, stockpile well-cut t-shirts, make sure your nails are clean and that your pants are the right length (I’m dead serious, gents. Sartorially inclined or not, people notice these things, and they are the defining features that will set you apart from the masses). Footwear is understated – when in doubt just go back to the source. Navy or white for canvas sneakers, tan for casual leather, black or darkest brown for boots and dress shoes. If you must demonstrate that you live in the future do it with a sporty watch, not reflectivemulticoloured hi-tops. _CLAIRE MUELLER

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SPRING BEAUTY

A n d fo r t h o s e o f u s w h o remember coral as a rather startling and hard-to-match colour choice for springs past, this one is a heady relief. Tangerine as an accent is bright, fresh and brings to mind cocktails and fruit salads – the stress being on “accent”, since the charm here is tiny flecks of colour on neutral backgrounds, beautifully encapsulated by McCall’s use of glossy, natural nails with manicured tangerine tips. Widening the scope to head to toe, McCall’s models looked like waifish, Swedish milkmaids with their coiled, messy braids and delicate, barely there smudges of eye makeup and geisha-esque lip colour. The main themes were floating and feminine, with vintageinspired bold floral embellishments and gauzy pastels and whites. The prediction is that McCall’s collection is going to hover over every fashion choice made this spring – whether it’s in the small details, like nude heels and floral hair embellishments, or the more identifiably McCall touches like the Scandinavian styling. Vintage has had a solid place in fashion for the last few seasons and doesn’t appear to be shifting, though the focus is sliding back to vintage and old-world reminiscent rather than direct lifts from earlier designs. And considering the mostly hideous 1980s leaning towards waist high cutoffs and baggy cropped t-shirts in recent times, this is a welcome development.

Illamasqua has emerged as a force to be reckoned with in the modern beauty market, headlining the push to drop Australian cosmetic prices and entice people away from online stores and back to the cosmetic counters. They’ve recently dropped their in-store prices, following Estee Lauder and Kiehl’s lead after a very public disclaiming of Australian retail markup (they are a UK brand) and a successful petition drive that netted them 20,000 signatures and pledges from customers. And the end results are impressive – prices dropping up to 35 per cent on some items, and slotting the previously high-end cosmetic house into the region of affordable beauty. Sadly for Perth an Illamasqua counter has been in the works for many a month but is yet to eventuate: those curious can purchase the range at their new prices on the Myer online store. This is a master ful strik e for I llamasqua, who appear to be steadily leeching the “outrageous, colourful, edgy” crown from competitors MAC Cosmetics, recently proving their own commitment to versatility with the release of the Generation Q collection, taglined “Beauty has no age limits”, featuring models from their 20s to 70s, male, female, from a variety of different backgrounds, selected through an open submission process. Their take on makeup is pushed towards expression and not daywear, but their artistic touches are cropping up in various

ALICE MCCALL’S SS 12/13 COLLECTION – BABOOSHKA - IS A TANGERINE DREAM

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Alice McCall came bounding out of the gates at 2012’s Australian Fashion Week and appears to have essentially set the stage for spring’s beauty and fashion trends – the colour of choice being tangerine

ways – bright, chunky jewellery, sharp edges and geometric lines predominantly, in styles that aren’t so much ‘80s as they are Missonireminiscent. Illamasqua’s push is about bravery and experimentation above anything – they are notably the first department store brand to release niche items like green and black lipsticks and sealing gel to address designs drawn onto the skin. For those who haven’t encountered Illamasqua before, their statement red lipstick in Box

(named for the company’s principal makeup artist) is an instant classic and very beloved. Spring’s arrival will be heralding a style of makeup and fashion that is lighthearted and playful; whether it’s the coquettish doll-like makeup of Alice McCall’s collection or the glam-rock drama of Illamasqua, these two lines will be the ones to watch in the upcoming few months. _SUZANNE ROFE

When did grunge become grunge? How did a five-letter word meaning “dirt”, “filth” or “rubbish” come to be associated with a musical genre, a pop phenomenon and a fashion statement? From subculture to mass culture, the trend timeline gets shorter and faster all the time. It was just over 20 years ago that MTV began bombarding its viewers with the sounds of Seattle grunge rock, featuring the angst anthems and grinding guitars of bands like Nirvana, the Smashing Pumpkins and Pearl Jam. By the summer of 1992, all the big name glossy fashion magazines began featuring grunge looks – from flannel shirts and wool sweaters right through to ripped jeans and wide-brimmed floppy hats. Hollywood weighed in, too, with Cameron Crowe’s grungescene movie, Singles. And in the world of celebrity, Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love reigned supreme. For most of the last century, the West’s cultural landscape – its fashion, art, music, design, entertainment – changed dramatically every 20 years or so. But these days it almost seems like popular style has been stuck on repeat, consuming the past instead of creating the new. From art and literature via fashion and music, 2012 has seen the ‘90s repurposed with a new wave of nostalgia. January saw Big Day Out festival organisers banking on this grunge revival, bringing Seattle band Soundgarden to headline the festival (they shot to fame in 1994 with the soullacerating song Black Hole Sun). In literature, meanwhile, Irvine Welsh’s Skagboys, the prequel to his 1993 bestseller Trainspotting, hit shelves in April. Meanwhile MTV has exhumed Beavis And Butt-Head, while teen favourite Sabrina The Teenage Witch is also set to get a big screen a reboot as an edgy superheroine (presumably sans Melissa Joan Hart). On the catwalk, designers have been pedaling sartorial elements of the decade, rehashing ‘90s hip-hop rucksacks, denimon-denim, geo prints and more. For spring/summer 2012, D&G’s

MO D E R N G R UN GE I CO N GR I M E S

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It may feel like only yesterday that Grunge was a new word in fashion’s lexicon, but for spring 2012 it’s returned with a vengeance to runways across the globe. From Doc Martens and flannels to babydoll dresses and slashed jeans, JENNIFER PETERSON-WARD looks at the trend that just won’t die.

models were adorned in signature ‘90s printed handkerchiefs worn as dresses while models in Isabel Marant’s runway show were decked out in hi-top trainers and oversized flannel shirts. The decade’s “supers” (aka the most super of the supermodels) are also back, with Naomi Campbell starring in a recent Roberto Cavalli campaign, Helena Christensen modeling for Reebok and Linda Evangelista appearing in her first Chanel

campaign since the ‘90s as the newest face of Chanel Eyewear. In the world of celebrity fashion, Montreal electronic artist Grimes’ dreamy grunge aesthetic (characterised by faded candy coloured hair and slashed oversized t-shirts paired with delicate shimmering fabrics) can be seen as something of a modern reflection of the kind of experimentation fellow musicians Gwen Stefani and Hope Sandoval were undertaking off stage back in their heyday.

While some may argue that the ‘90s craze is simply the product of a prematurely nostalgic generation, it’s perhaps better viewed as the natural progression of a pop culture cycle that recycles itself at dizzying speeds. So whether you actually grew up in the decade, or simply feel you identify with its prevailing cultural trends, the grunge esthetic can belong to whoever most wants to claim it.

To celebrate their fif th birthday and their upcoming Lomovember exhibition, our awesome feathered friends over at Pigeonhole are offering one lucky X-Press Fashion reader the chance to win their very own La Sardina camera. Shaped like a humble sardine can, the La Sardina has a wide angle lens and shoots on 35mm film. As if that wasn’t generous enough, they’ve also given us a beautiful Polaroid camera and limited edition Pigeonhole x Sunday Somewhere sunglasses! To be in the draw to win this awesome booty email win@xpressmag.com.au with Pigeonhole in the subject line.

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Ahead of swimwear season, and to celebrate the forthcoming release of their new Carnival collection, Cebiche Swimwear is giving away a pair of bikinis. To be in the draw all you have to do is become a fan of Cebiche on Facebook, then email us via win@xpressmag.com.au to let us know your favourite style and size. The winner will be notified on October 30.

In the lead up to Perth Fashion Festival, X-Press Fa s h i o n i s g i v i n g away the ultimate VIP Student Runway experience to one reader and a friend. The winner will receive VIP tickets to PFF’s Student Runway event on Sunday, September 23, at 6.30pm. Prior to the event the pair will be wined and dined at the VIP Fashion Bar, before taking front row seats for the spec tacular Student Runway show. If you want to win this amazing prize email win@xpressmag. com.au with ‘Student Runway’ in the subject line.

STUDENT RUNWAY 2011

STUDENT R U N W AY V I P EXPERIENCE

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FLU WEARS CHEAP MONDAY JEANS FROM BILLIE & ROSE $90, KSUBI JUMPER FROM BILLIE & ROSE $225, GRAM SNEAKERS FROM PIGEONHOLE.

TA L I S A W E A R S B O U L E E D R E S S F R O M P O P P Y L I S S I M A N A D D I T I O N $ 2 8 0 , W I L D F O X J U M P E R F R O M Z A R A B R Y S O N $ 2 6 9 , M E L I S S A F L AT S F R O M P U L S E U R B A N $ 9 5 .

24 TA L I S A W E A R S E L L E R Y S K I R T F R O M Z A R A B R Y S O N $ 4 6 5 , S T E E L PA N T H E R T E E F R O M D A N G E R F I E L D AT E N E X 1 0 0 $ 4 8 , N E C K L A C E F R O M P O P P Y L I S S I M A N A D D I T I O N $ 2 3 0 .

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FLU WEARS LIMEDROP TEE FROM PIGEONHOLE $154, BLACK FRIDAY VEST FROM DANGERFIELD AT ENEX100 $108, CHEAP MONDAY JEANS FROM BILLIE & ROSE $90, DOC MARTENS FROM DANGERFIELD AT ENEX100 $228.

28 TALISA WE AR S P O P P Y LI S S I M A N DR E S S F R O M P O P P Y LI S S I M A N ADDITION $295, NECKLACE FROM PULSE URBAN $45.

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TALI SA W EARS C AM EO SHI RT FROM PI GEO NH O LE $ 8 9 . 9 5 , C AME O P LE AT SKIRT FROM PIGEONHOLE $135, NECKLACE FROM PIGEONHOLE $45.

TALI SA W EARS SOMETHIN G ELS E CACT US D RESS FR O M BILLIE & R O SE $ 1 7 5 , C LO V E R BE LT FR O M ZA R A BRYSON $90, LIPS PURSE FROM POPPY LISSIMAN ADDITION $140, WILDFOX RING FROM ZARA BRYON.

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Location: Avion Way (located between St Quentin Avenue & Stirling Highway), Claremont Stores: Poppy Lissiman Addition, Aeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;lkemi, Breathless, SANA Boutique, Leona Edmiston, Recollections, CULTSTATUS & Couture Gowns When you shop you want a place that has it all, without trying to be it all. You want stores as unique as you, no big chains. You want exclusive WA fashion and luxury designer labels. You want Times Square Claremont! Seventeen fashion, beauty and lifestyle stores, for a shopping experience as unique as you. Located in the heart of Claremontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion district, Times Square Claremont is home to the best in WA designers, plus much sought after Australian and international designer labels. Contact:

timessquare.com.au Facebook.com/TimesSquareClaremont twitter@TimesSquareSC info@timessquare.com.au

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KWENCHER

Beer lovers and cider enthusiasts – finally there is drink we can all agree on. Kwencher is a premium lager that unites the refreshing taste of beer with the sweetness of cider. Kwencher is crafted by the Beltz group in Geelong, Victoria using local hops and malt but then goes the extra mile by adding juicy clingstone peach & Darjeeling tea prior to filtration. It may seem unusual but the combination is ridiculously refreshing and is also a fabulous accompaniment to spicy Asian cuisine. Whats more there is great story behind the Kwencher brand – The founders are a husband and wife who were travelling deep through the Moroccan Atlas mountains where they discovered there favourite thirst kwenchers, peach iced tea and the local Moroccan beer tasted amazing when blended together. Nothing like a cultural adventure to make a home brewer see the light. The Beltz Group launched Kwencher in Melbourne in November 2011 and recently launched their second product – Kwencher Pink Grapefruit and Black Tea in April this year. Founder David Burns said “ Our Kwencher Peach and Black tea has 50 / 50 male & female appeal however it is no secret that our recent Kwencher Pink Grapefruit and Black Tea has been especially appealing to the female market. Contact: Twitter.com/kwencher_Bev Email: enquiries@kwencher.com.au

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