CHRISTOPHER KANE DESIGNS BEAUTIF
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REFINED CLOTHES Glasweigian Chritsopher Kane produces bright sexy clothes. Creatively fusing fabric, colour and print, Kane is at the vanguard of British fashion design. Chritsopher Kane was born in 1982 near Motherwell in North Lanarkshire, inspired from an early age by Galliano’s creativity he studied fashion at London’s Central St Martin’s college of Art and Design. His 2006 graduate show received praise from the press and Donatella Versace immediately offered him a consultancy role at Versace. In September 2006, Kane showed at London Fashion Week. Skintight peices referenced the work of Gianni Versace, Azzedin Alaia and Herve Leger. Bands of neon elastic were wrapped around the body, and stretch lace minidresses in fuscia, purple and midnight blue and aqua
were decorated with brass rings and ruffles. Kane works in tandem with his sister, Tammy, who is his collaborator and buisness partner. “Collaborations are good to make you see things outside of the fashion box,” states Kane. “They offer opportunities to learn and experiance new things.” With a design phillosophy of “working hard and trying to do something interesting”, Kane has captured the modern essence of London fashion. Citing versace and Iris Apfel as inspiration design figures, Kane often finds it harder to define his own aesthetic. “I want women to feel really special in my designs, but my ideas on aesthetic change like the weather.” His work is often inspired by memories. “From watching films to drawing, no matter what i make it always ends up reminding me of my childhood.” Kane’s design process involves drawing, then working on a mannequin and then on the body to edit the garments. “Sometimes I don’t draw and just come up with a textile idea that will take you somewhere else,” he explains. “There isn’t a blueprint for it and I do think things backwards, but I know
what works for me might not work for someone else.” Kane finds it hard to be wholly satisfied with his work. “I always want to do more and more. That has a lot to do with limited resources here in London. It can be tough to have design executed exactly how i imagined when drawing them. It can be heartbreaking: if it isn’t perfection, then I don’t want it.” But on the other side of the coin according to Kane, imperfections can
be the perfect result to get his creativity flowing. “It all depends on the collection and what overall aesthetic, look and sensibility you are trying to achieve and portray.” For Kane the Fashion show is the most exciting part of his work. “You get to see for the first time all the models lined up with the complete collection on,” he enthuses. “It takes about four months to make a collection so it feels like a landmark to get to that stage.”
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How would you defin British fashion? Innovative, fresh and energetic. Young and up-and-coming designers spring to mind when i think of british fashion. What are the pros and cons of working in London for a designer? The benefits of working here in London are the support you get from the British Fashion Council and Topshop - without them it would be terribly difficult to fund the two catwalk shows a year. Also just being in London is good for a designer,: there is so much to absorb visually. Most of my time is spent in Hackney where I live and where my studio is. The negative aspects facing designers in london is that there are very few factories left, its a struggle to bring ideas to life due to the limited skills and resources here Does working in Britain inform you work? Yes it does. I like the diversity of London - i like the posh versus ghetto feel that London has. Why do you think London has a reputation for creating new design talent? I think that Central St Martins has a lot to do with this. Louise Wilson has taught most of the biggest names in fashion. My dream was to move away from Scotland and to come to London as soon as I
left school to come to Central St Martins. London is the capital with so much going on every borough is different. Does British fashion history ever inform your work? I think as a designer you absorb all sorts of peices of history. I like to pick at things, but mostly I like to look forward. How do you think British designers and British fashion are regarded internationally? I think that we have an excellant international rep for being creative. Do you think there is a distinct British Style? Yes of course, of we are talking about new designers then I would say it is a place to find a new creative energy. Which other Briitish designers do you observe and why? Charles Worth for inventing couture. Vivienne Westwood for being so amazing, she gave us punk and is still changing the way we think about dressing. I love her for that. John Galliano for making me want to go to Central St Martins and for being a true genuis. There are so many, like Alexander McQueen who have contributed so much to fashion.
Gothic seduction AW07
ROAR
GOOD GIRL GO SS10
Kane subverts the pretty with slits to the thigh, sheer panels and elements of lingerie to create a beautiful yet dark collection.
AW10
Black leather sheer panels and high hemlines made prim with high collars and colourful embroidery.
ONE BAD
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