FSN Nov -Dec 2017 by YAFFA MEDIA

Wills Domain – How the West won Seth James Boom Town – Big things are happening on the Central Coast Your Business is Food – Festive tips to cut food waste Kindred spirit – Meet Yukino Ochiai, Australia’s first female Sake Samurai

GILI GOLD’S RYE SOURDOUGH

Recipe

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November - December 2017

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PUBLISHER HELEN DAVIES

EDITOR ANITA CONNORS (02) 9213 8335 anitaconnors@yaffa.com.au CONSULTING EDITOR JILL DUPLEIX

CONTRIBUTORS Tony Eldred, Tim Grey, Lisa Hasen, Anthony Huckstep, Amanda Kane, Yasmin Newman, John Susman

November - December 2017 Wills Domain – How the West won Seth James Boom Town – Big things are happening on the Central Coast Your Business is Food – Festive tips to cut food waste

GILI GOLD’S RYE SOURDOUGH

Recipe

Kindred spirit – Meet Yukino Ochiai, Australia’s first female Sake Samurai

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FOODSERVICE NEWS is published by Yaffa Media Pty Ltd ABN 54 002 699 354 17-21 Bellevue Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 Ph: (02) 9281 2333 Fax: (02) 9281 2750 All mail to: GPO Box 606, Sydney NSW 2001 ISSN 1328-9039 MEMBER CIRCULATIONS AUDIT BOARD

Table of Contents

FEATURES

REGULARS

20 HUCK’S RANT

HOW THE WEST WON SETH JAMES

FROM QUEENSLAND TO VICTORIA, THE HEAD CHEF IS NOW IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA AT THE HELM OF WILLS DOMAIN’S WINERY RESTAURANT.

YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD GET YOUR VENUE READY FOR CHRISTMAS WITH FESTIVE TIPS TO CUT FOOD WASTE.

AFTER OPENINGS AND CLOSINGS GALORE THIS YEAR, ANTHONY HUCKSTEP BERATES THOSE RESTAURANTS AND CAFES SIMPLY GOING THROUGH THE MOTIONS WITH NOTHING NEW TO OFFER.

INSIDER

BOOM TOWN

YASMIN NEWMAN HEADS TO THE CENTRAL COAST TO MEET RESTAURATEURS HARLEY HARDCASTLE AND CAMERON CANSDELL TO DISCUSS THEIR EXPANSION FROM ONE RESTAURANT TO A POSSIBLE FOUR.

A FOODSERVICE YEAR IN REVIEW

WE LOOK BACK OVER THE PAST 12 MONTHS AND CONSIDER THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF THE 2017.

JILL DUPLEIX TAKES A POKE AT POPUP RESTAURANTS AND ARGUES THAT DESPITE THE NAME, THEY ARE WELL AND TRULY PERMANENT.

MANAGEMENT

P. 26 P. 8

P. 16 P. 48

TONY ELDRED URGES BUSINESS OWNERS TO PUT THEIR VENUES FIRST, AND TO HAND OVER THE DAY-TO-DAY RUNNING TO STAFF IF NEED BE.

44 RECIPE

THIS MONTH, WE HAVE EXCLUSIVE RECIPES FROM SYDNEY VENUES, BAKE BAR, INDU AND NO. 1 WILLIAM AT THE AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM.

PLUS N E W

A N D

N O T E D

OPENINGS JI

SAFETY (BOREDOM) IN NUMBERS P. 20

WHERE I

MANA

GEMENT

TONY E LDRE D

FO O D SERVICE

AUS

ARCHAN CHAN P. 12

INSIDER

R E S T A U R A N T S & B A R S

STARTERS P. 8

FOOD SERVICE

ONE’S OWN WORST ENEMY P. 38

P DU

TO P

PROFILE CHEF

PERMANENT POP-UPS NUMBERS P. 22 GAME

HOW THE WEST WON SETH JAMES P. 16

TURNING TABLES

TRADE

THE UNCONVENTIONAL TABLE P. 13

A FOODSERVICE YEAR IN REVIEW P. 40

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EDITORIAL

HELLO

And we come to the end of another year at foodservice magazine. The past 12 months have been dynamic, so be sure to turn to page 40 to see our retrospect. Thinking about what 2018 may hold for the industry, it was my recent privilege to attend Australian Pork’s second annual symposium. Amongst the many, future-looking issues raised was one that has long been of concern, namely the skills shortage in Australia. Hosted by Michael Bennett, CEO of HTN, the panel considered the reasons and some of the statistics behind it. Bennett revealed that in July 2011 there were 4,128 restaurant and cookery apprentices in Australia. Compare that to July of this year

where only 2,627 were in trade or employed, and there has been a drop of roughly 37 per cent. The difficult news is that demand is increasing dramatically. Indeed, the discussion turned to a recent study conducted by Deloitte on behalf of the Australian Trade and Investment Commission, which predicted that by 2020, the industry would require 123,000 new workers. While there’s clearly no one, easy solution, chef, restaurateur and panelist Luke Mangan’s suggested that the place to start was with the next generation and education. His Inspired Series already connects industry leaders with TAFE students. However, he does not think that this goes far enough, and believes that the industry should better engage with high school students. “I think mentorship and talking to kids at schools [is where to begin], and really telling them how good our industry is and how many opportunities there are to travel the world, to meet other people, to educate on other cuisines and other cultures, and see different things. “If we can get that message across to the kids at school, to get that little bit of passion in their mind I really think that we can progress.” Something to think about for the coming year.

Anita Connors Editor

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STARTERS

Just Opened

Pt. Leo Estate

West Oak Hotel

Bar Carolina

FORMER ROCKPOOL CHEF PHIL WOOD’S NEW HOME 3649 Frankston-Flinders Road Phone: (03) 5989 9011 Merricks VIC 3916 ptleoestate.com.au

HISTORIC PUB REVAMPED WITH BEER GARDEN AND DELI 208 Hindley Street Instagram: @westoakhotel Adelaide SA 5000 westoakhotel.com.au

OLD SCHOOL ITALIAN TEMPERED WITH MODERN FLAIR 44 Toorak Road Phone: (03) 9820 9774 South Yarra VIC 3141 barcarolina.com.au

N E W

A N D

N O T E D

OPENINGS R E S T A U R A N T S & B A R S

Osbourne Hotel

NEW, NOTED, INTERESTING Across the country, here are Australia’s newest restaurants.

154-YEAR-OLD PUB WITH A MULTIMILLION-$ REFURB 766 Ann Street Phone: (07) 3252 9833 Fortitude Valley QLD 4006 osbournehotel.com.au

Jimmy Grant GEORGE CALOMBARIS’ CHAIN ENTERS SYDNEY MARKET Sydney Central Plaza com.au Email: jimmy@jimmygrants. jimmygrants.com.au

Chula

Saxe

Marta

VENUE NÚMERO TRES FOR PETER LEW & NICOLE GALLOWAY 33 Bayswater Road Phone: (02) 9331 0126 Kings Cross NSW chula.com.au

EX-SAINT CRISPIN CHEF JOE GRBAC’S 1ST SOLO OUTING 211 Queen Street Phone: (03) 9089-6699 Melbourne VIC 3000 saxe.com.au

CUCINA ROMANA TAKES OVER FORMER POPOLO SITE 30 McLachlan Avenue Phone: (02) 9361 6641 Rushcutters Bay NSW 2010 marta.com.au

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ADD A FRENCH INFLUENCE TO YOUR MENU An international brand of French origin, Président Professionnel is dedicated to supplying high quality, reliable and innovative dairy products to customers across the foodservice industry. From our rich, savoury cultured butters to our soft, creamy specialty and tasty everyday cheeses, there are endless opportunities for culinary creations with Président Professionnel.

STARTERS

Sydney’s Beta Bar wins top gong at international Restaurant & Bar Design Awards CBD cocktail venue, Beta Bar, was named Best Bar, Australia & Pacific at the 2017 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards in London on Thursday October 5. Beta Bar opened last year on Castlereagh Street. The fitout was designed by DS17’s Paul Papadopoulos, and features light fixtures by British product and interior designer, Lee Broom, and furniture by Italian-Danish maker GamFratesi.

Federal Court upholds penalty rates cuts The decision impacts Sunday and public holiday penalty rates for hospitality, fast-food and retail workers. The claim brought by United Voice and the Shop, Distributive and Allied Employees Association, unions representing hospitality and retail workers, had challenged the Fair Work Commission’s decision to slash rates, which came into force on July 1. They argued that the decision was “legally unreasonable”, and that the Fair Work Commission had failed to take into account the impact on low-paid employees. The court did not agree. And in a judgment handed down on October 11, Justice Mordy Bromberg held that the commission had met its legal obligations. “The Fair Work Commission alone was vested with the responsibility for assessing all

relevant matters and reaching all the conclusions necessary to decide whether or not to make the determinations that it did. “In the view of the court, the Fair Work Commission’s decision read as a whole reveals no jurisdictional error.” The Federal Court’s ruling maintains cuts to Sunday pay rates for full-time and part-time hospitality workers from 175 per cent of their standard wage to 150 per cent. Fast-food workers have seen a drop from 150 per cent to 125 per cent change above their standard rate. Fast-food casuals have also experienced a penalty cut, however the rates for hospitality casuals remain the same.

Justin Hemmes adds The Vic on the Park to the Merivale empire Merivale has expanded its Sydney Inner West portfolio with acquisition of Marrickville institution, The Vic on the Park. Justin Hemmes, CEO of Merivale, says, “The Vic has long been at the heart of Marrickville, a vibrant community hub where people of all ages and walks of life can come together. “We have loved being part of the Inner West since opening Queens last year and can’t wait to take on what is undoubtedly an important and cherished venue in the area.” Merivale receives the keys to the property on November 13.

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WHERE I EAT WHERE I

F O O D S E RV I C E

AUS

HEAD CHEF, ARCHAN CHAN, OF MODERN CHINESE EATERY, RICKY & PINKY, AT FITZROY’S BUILDERS ARMS HOTEL SHARES HER MUST-TRY VENUES IN AND AROUND MELBOURNE.

FITZROY

FRIENDS

Hinoki Japanese Pantry. It has a great selection of Japanese ingredients, delicious and fresh sushi.

All of my friends know Dainty Sichuan in South Yarra. Tasty, consistent, and addictive.

REGIONAL

YUM CHA

Brae, for the ‘iced oyster’ and parsnip ‘cone’ with freeze-dried apple and apple and parsnip mousse.

Crystal Jade has good dim sum. The staff also speaks the language. It also has the best egg tarts I’ve discovered so far in Melbourne.

BIRTHDAY

SHOWING OFF MELBOURNE

Cutler & Co., fine decor, great food, plenty of smiles, and lots of good memories.

Cumulus Inc., Anchovy, Lune Croissanterie, Victoria Market, Brother Baba Budan, Cutler & Co., and Oakridge, Igni, Brae and Attica if your friends are into finer food.

TURNING TABLES

THE UNCONVENTIONAL TABLE THIS MONTH, LISA HASEN TAKES A LOOK AT THE SOCIAL MEDIA AND TECHNOLOGY DINING TRENDS FUELLING AUSTRALIAN APPETITES.

NUMBERS GAME

TURNING TABLES

hen it comes to the modern-day dining experience, the role of the mobile phone has certainly evolved. So too, has the etiquette surrounding its purpose during meals – once reserved for ‘in case of emergencies’, then adding purpose as a 2-in-1 device (phone + camera), now leading up to a marketing tool in the palm of your hand.

Tagging a venue with a gorgeous, food photo is now seen as a compliment, a ‘good deed’ and an opportunity to further leverage a marketing channel that is not only impactful on your audience, it is also free.

Lisa Hasen is vice president for Asia Pacific of online restaurant-reservation service, OpenTable. Contact her via contact@opentable.com.

Hours before their table is ready, diners phones have earned their keep: it has mapped your restaurant’s location, displayed your menu, checked your Insta feed for visual inspiration, served up ‘dish-gotiation’ scenarios (it’s a ‘sharing’ menu, correct?) and identified a pre-dinner bar to get the night warmed up. All this shows that diners are interacting with your brand via their phones on so many levels. That trend is going to continue,

turning the mobile phone into your restaurant’s most powerful marketing asset. While I’m still baffled by couples sitting across the table staring not into each other’s eyes but rather at their screens, I’m no longer scratching my head when others snap a pic of their dish, fiddle on their phone a few seconds more – and then dig in... It has become the new normal. Our recent survey on social dining revealed that one in five Aussies admitted to dining at a restaurant specifically to post about it. Facebook is still the preferred channel for Aussies to connect with restaurants and chefs (59 per cent), closely followed by Instagram at 45 per cent - and Twitter coming in at 16 per cent. I too, am becoming an enthusiastic foodie-Instagramer. Tagging a venue with a gorgeous, food photo is now seen as a compliment, a ‘good deed’ and an opportunity to further leverage a marketing channel that is not only impactful on your potential audience, it is also free. More than one third of diners will tag you in their post. Diners love checking in upon arriving at the venue (49

per cent) and one out of every two diners will research your menu ahead of time. Attribution may then explain why 31 per cent of respondents say they’ve chosen to dine at a restaurant specifically to order a particular dish that they’ve seen on social media (perhaps it was my photo that brought them in!). Here are some tips to help you capitalise and amplify your marketing efforts: • Visuals! Social media is all about that drool worthy snap. It’s a vehicle to get the word out on limited time dishes and specials. • Hashtags are important – create your own or use a proven relevant hashtag for searches. • Ensure your venue is easy to find and tag on Instagram. • Respond to diners who post to acknowledge their efforts. Everyone likes a pat on the back for sharing their experience and it can encourage further engagement and repeat visits. My advice, which I’ve relented to on the other side of the table, is to embrace it, work it, make it beautiful and let your dining audience contribute.

ON THE MENU

WHAT THE WINERY RESTAURANTS OF THE MARGARET RIVER ARE CURRENTLY SERVING AS PART OF THEIR SPRING DEGUSTATIONS.

CAPE LODGE 3341 Caves Road, Yallingup WA 6282

RUSTICOS AT HAY SHED HILL 511 Harmans Mill Road, Wilyabrup WA 6280

Six course menu $160 per person, includes: Donnybrook marron, yoghurt dressing, quail eggs, ink crisp Wagin squab, lemon puree, baby spinach, date sauce Augusta snapper, baby eggplant, basil, zucchini, garlic, orzo Harvey beef tenderloin, native pepper berry crust, charred broccolini Lemon posset, desert limes, mandarin and basil sorbet, cocoa nibs Cambray Nannup friesette

Six course menu $65 per person, includes: Hervey Bay scallops, cauliflower puree, manchego crisp Fried goats cheese, orange blossom honey Plum cured salmon, mandarin, fennel, green olive, radish Duck ravioli, artichoke cream, pato jus Pork belly, burnt apple, Pedro XimĂŠnez jus Cheese board

WILLS DOMAIN 17 Brash Road, Yallingup WA 6282

ARAVINA ESTATE 61 Thornton Road, Yallingup WA 6282

Multi course menu $110 per person, includes: Cured hiramasa kingfish, macadamia, lilly pilly Marron, shiitake, nori, umami broth Rainbow trout, seaweed, buttermilk White Point striploin, salt baked celeriac, mushroom Strawberry guava, mangosteen, coconut

Three course menu $70, includes: Grilled local cuttlefish, Thai chilli jam, cucumber, lime Salt baked Chioggia beetroot tart, beetroot marmalade, goats curd, hazelnut, thyme Arkady lamb rump, smoked eggplant, spring vegetables, sprouted buckwheat, lamb jus

WATERSHED WINES Corner Bussell Highway and Darch Road, Margaret River WA 6285

VOYAGER ESTATE 41 Stevens Road, Margaret River WA 6285

Three course menu $65 per person, Cuttlefish, Chinese smacked cucumbers, black garlic, radish, sesame Tea smoked duck breast, torched orange, rhubarb compote, savoury oats Albany asparagus, herb gnocchi, broad beans, peas, parmesan curd Nannup pears, hazelnut crumble, dates, mascarpone mousse

Four course menu $80 per person, includes: Melon, almond, tarragon, finger lime Wagin quail, duck parfait, pancetta, red spiced wine gel, brioche Aged beef, beef tongue, mushroom, onion, pine nut, jus Cabernet merlot, beetroot, rhubarb, currant, violet, sage

ON THE MENU

Clockwise from far left: Knee Deep, Rusticos at Hayshed Hill, Vasse Felix, Cape Lodge, Watershed Wines, and Voyager Estate.

LEEUWIN ESTATE Stevens Road, Margaret River WA 6285

Six course menu $109 per person: Freshly shucked oyster with lime Scallop ceviche, sweet potato, orange Busselton squid, pork relish, wombok, apple, black lime salt Grilled fish, clam and pine nut vinaigrette, pancetta, fennel puree Wagin duck breast, duck leg dumpling, wombok, oyster mushroom broth Gutshofer Ziegenkaese VASSE FELIX Corner Caves Road and Tom Cullity Drive, Margaret River WA 6284

Five course menu $95 per person: Marron, pea, daikon, wasabi Scallop, honeydew, garlic, crackling Pumpkin, laver, miso, dashi, yolk Beef, cabbage, maple, onion Caramel, date, oat, hay KNEE DEEP 160 Johnson Road, Wilyabrup WA 6280

Four course menu $85 per person, includes: Strachitella, rye, broad beans, elderflower Raw scallop, buttermilk, kale, finger lime Harvey rump cap, ox tail, onion Celery, rhubarb, macadamia

PROFILE

HOW THE WEST WON SETH JAMES THIS YEAR’S MARGARET RIVER GOURMET ESCAPE (NOVEMBER 16 TO 19) SEES AN AVALANCHE OF ROCK STAR CHEFS FLYING IN FROM ALL CORNERS OF THE GLOBE. BUT FOR LOCAL CHEF SETH JAMES OF WILLS DOMAIN WINERY, JILL DUPLEIX DISCOVERS, THE REAL ROCK STARS ARE THE SMALL-SCALE PRODUCERS OF THIS SPECIAL LITTLE CORNER OF SOUTHWESTERN AUSTRALIA.

TO P

PROFILE CHEF

Wills Domain Corner Abbey Farm and Brash Roads Yallingup WA 6282 willsdomain.com.au

ith a massively popular Margaret River winery restaurant open for lunch daily from noon to 3 pm, there’s not much time to go for a surf. But that’s okay, says Seth James. “I failed surfing,” he says. “I did try to learn when I first arrived. But sitting on top of the water like a walrus is not really me.” Executive chef of the dynamic Wills Domain Winery restaurant, perched high above the Gunyulgup Valley with ridiculously beautiful views of valleys and vines, James has a staff of seven and a menu that is a virtual shopping list of great southwestern produce. Ocean Grown green lip abalone from Brad Adams, gonged with a Produce of The Year gold medal in the 2017 delicious. Produce Awards, excites him the most. “He has a 12 kilometre, abalone ranch on the seabed in Flinders Bay, off Augusta,” he says. “It is amazing.” Other favourites are Rottnest Island scallops (“the best, so big and so sweet”), Arkady lamb and White Point beef (“such a small, passionate producer, the cows are virtually hand-fed from the balcony”). His Garden, Paddock and Ocean menu lists green lip abalone with smoked pork and crushed apple next to grilled yabbies with XO sauce, and something called ‘pork fat potato gems’ which sounds too good to be true (grated

potatoes are cooked in pork fat, drained, pressed, cut into nuggets and deep-fried until crunchy, woohoo). “That was a memory from Mum’s chicken dinners,” he says. From his first day as an apprentice at Circa in Brisbane, James loved the camaraderie of the kitchen, and learning new skills. “I learnt discipline and detail there, then worked for Russell Armstrong [Tables of Toowong, Seasalt at Armstrongs] for four years. He taught me the basics of what I do to this day.” From there, James moved to Melbourne, working with John-Paul Twomey at Andrew McConnell’s then-new Cutler & Co. “J-P spent a lot of time and effort with me, on technique, philosophy, produce, and how to do costings and plan your day,” he recalls. Even so, the big jump across the continent to head up a winery restaurant in 2014 was a huge change. “For a start, I don’t do dinners any more,” he laughs, sounding quite happy about it. “And I’ve loved learning so much more about wine.” Apart from being the rare Margaret River chef (or wine-maker) who doesn’t live to surf the waves, the Queensland-born chef loves the area. “When I was working in Melbourne, I lived 18 stories up in Docklands, with concrete everywhere I looked,” he recalls. “Here I’ve got such diversity – the rugged coastline, the rolling vineyards, the bush. Everything is right here.”

PROFILE

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHARON GRAHAM

“When I was working in Melbourne, I lived 18 stories up in Docklands, with concrete everywhere I looked. Here I’ve got such diversity - the rugged coastline, the rolling vineyards, the bush. Everything is right here.”

Seth James, Wills Domain.

YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD

FESTIVE TIPS TO CUT FOOD WASTE AS WE GEAR UP FOR THE SILLY SEASON, NSW ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION AUTHORITYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AMANDA KANE CONSIDERS HOW BUSINESSES MAY MAKE THE MOST OF IT WHILE MINIMISING THEIR FOOD WASTE.

YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD

ENJOY YOUR LEFTOVERS • Eat unchilled food within 2 hours • Store food at between 2 - 4˚C • Reheat leftovers to steaming hot

lovefoodhatewaste.nsw.gov.au Waste less food, save money and our environment

Order your free food safety stickers for takeaway containers from NSW EPA’s Love Food Hate Waste.

For more information about the Your Business is Food program and how you can sign up, go to lovefoodhatewaste. nsw.gov.au/business.

hristmas is a busy season for the foodservice industry with work functions and get-togethers filling up tables and challenging your normal, everyday ordering, storage and menu practices. So, what is it that will help bring new customers your way this festive season? And how can you make sure they have the selection and choices they want while avoiding food waste? The NSW EPA’s Love Food Hate Waste program has tracked community attitudes and behaviours around food waste in NSW every three years since 2009. It shows people are increasingly concerned about food waste and the environmental impacts. The most recent tracking survey included for the first time people’s attitudes and behaviours while eating out, with the results helping to inform our new education program to help food businesses reduce food waste – Your Business is Food. The survey results provide useful insights for any cafe and restaurant wanting to to reduce business costs relating to food waste while increasing customer satisfaction. Indeed, customers were asked what they thought about venues and how they chose one over another. The results are revealing. The friendliness of the staff and the variety and choices offered on the menu were the most popular reasons for choosing a restaurant (73 per cent and 74 per cent respectively). You may also be surprised to learn that a restaurant’s environmental credentials play a role in restaurant choice by 42 per cent of people. The good news is the survey confirmed NSW residents really like to eat out. More than half of

NSW residents (53 per cent) eat out at least weekly. The vast majority of people (58 per cent) claim not to waste any food while eating out, but for those that did, the most common reasons were that the portion size was too big (41 per cent overall, but increasing to 53 per cent for large country town respondents), ordering too much (20 per cent) and people watching their weight (15 per cent). The most common items to be left on plates are carbohydrates, followed by vegetables and salad. Love Food Hate Waste food waste expert Sarah Chen said the survey also showed that customers really like it when a restaurant helps them to avoid food waste by offering smaller portion sizes or take away containers. “Because people don’t like food waste, they appreciate it when you help them to avoid it,” Chen said. “Different people are driven by different reasons for preferring not to waste food, so depending on your customer base, you can pitch your food waste avoidance efforts in different ways and they will like it. “Single people and families without children worry about wasting good food when they leave it on their plates, while families with young children worry about the waste of money. “For the business themselves, it impacts on their bottom line, affects staff morale and it’s upsetting when the food you prepared is thrown away.” Foodservice magazine is partnering with Love Food Hate Waste over 18 months as part of an ongoing campaign to support the NSW food industry to waste less food. The Your Business is Food education program encourages

food businesses to tackle one major food waste problem area, i.e. spoilage, preparation or plate waste, by implementing two or three simple actions. It is not hard to achieve 21 per cent food waste reduction, which means more savings for your business. The biggest likely cause of food waste among the festive season crowds is likely to be plate waste, so here are Chen’s top three tips for Christmas: • OFFER TAKE AWAY CONTAINERS 71 per cent of diners feel more favourably towards a restaurant if they offer takeaway containers, with nearly a third of people being embarrassed to actually ask for one. Free food safety stickers for take away containers are available as part of the program, advising customers how to keep food safe. Order some today. • OFFER PORTION SIZE OPTIONS Nearly 70 per cent of people have ordered starters as a main meal to suit their appetite and more than half of younger people wish restaurants would advise them about how big their portions are to ensure they order enough and not too much. People who eat entrée size mains are also more likely to have room for dessert. • LEAVE OUT WHAT YOU DON’T WANT The research shows that customers are shy to tell you what they do or don’t want and value the friendliness of your staff. Simply asking customers whether there are ingredients they don’t like or if they’d prefer a smaller serve avoids food being left on plates and makes people feel better.

HUCKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S RANT

HUCK’S RANT

SAFETY (BOREDOM) IN NUMBERS ANTHONY HUCKSTEP LOOKS BACK ACROSS THE YEAR OF OPENINGS, AND RALLIES AGAINST THOSE VENUES THAT ARE SIMPLY GOING THROUGH THE MOTIONS AND FAILING TO BRING ANYTHING NEW TO THE TABLE.

s per regular programming, 2017 saw another swell of restaurant openings (and closures). Although there have been a handful that show early signs of leaving their mark, the vast majority have been lost in a sea of mediocrity. There are already too many restaurants and the addition of more has simply exacerbated the skills shortage problem that’s compounded following the abolition of the 457 visas.

They’re not terrible places, but they’re not doing anything special either. But, it’s not even about doing something special. Competency would be a bonus.

Anthony Huckstep is the national restaurant critic for delicious. and a food writer for The Australian, GQ Australia and QANTAS.

Poorly executed dishes – some inedible, some dangerous to eat. Service that goes through the motions (as if they’ve hired zombies from Shaun of the Dead) that forget orders or can’t resolve queries – which is fine if they ask someone who knows – but they never return to deliver an answer. I recently asked a restaurant manager what the whole fish of the day was, he replied, “Salmon.” “Really? That’s a big meal for one?” I replied. He wandered off, potted

around and when he next arrived I asked him again. “I think its snapper or flathead.” I ordered the lamb. Anyway, these eateries are what I would call ‘safe’ restaurants. They feel like they’re pretending to be restaurants. Like when you dress up as a werewolf to go to a Halloween party. You play the part all night, but you’re not actually a monster (hopefully). They’re not terrible places, but they’re not doing anything special either. But, it’s not even about doing something special. Competency would be a bonus. They cook and serve food, which is the basic function of a restaurant. But in attempt to be ‘safe’, they lack any inspiration or will and it becomes underwhelming and varnished in complacency. They’re fine; somewhere to eat. Places you’d never choose to go to again, nor recommend, in fact you might even forget they even exist. They’re blindly praying to catch a wave to their own private oasis island of success without the attention to detail required to survive in this game. There is nothing more boring than losing two hours in a ‘safe’

restaurant. At least the terrible one’s are entertaining and give you a tale to tell – providing it’s not about yelling at the porcelain bowl all night. Of course the great restaurants remind you how good eating out can make you feel. It’s important to note that I’m not suggesting all restaurants should aim to be Sepia or Quay. You can be the best fish’n’chipper in the country with an astounding perception of value for a measly $20. What’s important is that everyone involved in the business gives a shit – and trust me as a diner you can tell when they do. You’d have to be madder than a bag full of bees to open your own restaurant but, if you’re planning to, or indeed looking to lift your game you should start by getting all your key staff to eat at as many restaurants at the level you’re pegging yourself at as you can. Your guests don’t just dine at your restaurant. They’re food tarts getting love all over town. If you’re too busy bunking down in the kitchen galley there is every chance they understand value and a good dining experience better than you. If you want to be at your best, you need to know what’s going on in the rest of the universe as well.

INSIDER

Pop-up igloos on the banks of the Thames turn outdoor dining into a year-round proposition for Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Coppa Club. PHOTOGRAPHY: ALLAN STONE

INSIDER

POP-UPS ARE THE NEW PERMANENT POP-UPS USED TO BE A FUN WAY FOR YOUNG CHEFS TO CREATE CASUAL, ONE-OFF DINING EXPERIENCES. THEN TOP CHEFS STARTED POPPING UP IN EACH OTHER’S RESTAURANTS, AND ACCLAIMED RESTAURANTS POPPED UP ON A GLOBAL BASIS. NOW, SAYS, JILL DUPLEIX, THE POP-UP MENTALITY IS SO ENTRENCHED, IT’S PERMANENT.

INSIDER JI

P DU

op-ups. You either love ’em or hate ’em. Or, like me, you do both. Everyday my inbox brings news of more popup restaurants, cafes and bars. I don’t have time to get around to all the new ‘permanents’, much less get to places that are here today, gone tomorrow. Early pop-ups, it must be said, weren’t too sophisticated.

The pop-up is changing; growing up and paying its dues. No longer guerrilla dining, it’s now a bricks-and-mortar proposition - and for many, an attractive proposition that energises the industry as much as it disrupts it.

Jill Dupleix is a food writer, editor, cookbook author, restaurant critic and co-Director of Australia’s Top Restaurants.

You could perch on yet another splintery crate drinking from a jam jar in the dark and wonder what the hell was wrong with a real restaurant. But the pop-up is changing; growing up and paying its dues. No longer guerrilla dining, it’s now a bricks-and-mortar proposition – and for many, an attractive proposition that energises the industry as much as it disrupts it. Young

chefs can stretch their wings, experienced chefs can reboot their creativity, and groups of chefs can collaborate and find a wider audience together without the big-buck set-up costs of a ‘permanent’ restaurant. The real charm of the pop-up is that you can do what you have always dreamed of doing, without compromise. There are no rules. So if it works, then hey, you have a great business model. If it doesn’t, no harm done. Some of Australia’s biggest restaurant groups are exploring the concept, with Justin Hemmes’ Merivale Group installing serial popsters Mike Eggert and Jemma Whiteman of Good Luck Pinbone in a fun-times, drive-through bottleshop Italian canteen called Mr Liquor’s Dirty Italian Disco for the 2018 summer season. Then there’s the restauranton-tour business model in which game-changers recreate their restaurants in lands far, far away. Rene Redzepi of Copenhagen’s Noma famously transported his entire staff, complete with

dishwasher, to Tokyo in 2015, Barangaroo in Sydney in 2016, and Tulum, Mexico in 2017. You need a strong creative vision – and plenty of financial support – to make such an expensive large-scale residency work. As Redzepi told Grub Street in April, “It is basically the most elaborate, challenging, and time-consuming team-building exercise you can do.” Increasingly, we look to popups to tell us where the future lies; not just in food concept or use of technology, but in design and architecture. Both London’s Restaurant & Bar Design Awards (October 2017) and Australia’s Eat Drink Design Awards (November 2017) now have categories that recognise achievement in the design of a temporary space. Next, expect more ‘prop-ups’, supported by branded sponsors, and travelling pop-ups that move from city to city and country to country, like a band on a concert tour. The choice, in a tough market, is increasingly ‘grow or die’. Pop-up, in other words, or pop off.

UNCORKED

KINDRED SPIRIT JAPAN SAKE BREWERS ASSOCIATION RECENTLY NAMED SAKE EDUCATOR AND BUSINESS OWNER, YUKINO OCHIAI, AUSTRALIA’S FIRST FEMALE SAKE SAMURAI. SHE REVEALS WHAT THIS ACCOLADE FROM THE MEANS TO HER AS WELL HOW SHE CAME TO FOUND DEJA VU SAKE CO.

What is your first memory of sake? My first memory would be of my grandma in my home country when I was young. She drank sake and served it at all family occasions. It’s a lovely memory for me. What drew you to a career in sake? I used to work in the Australian wine industry as an export manager. Had the industry been foreign to me, it would have impacted my ability to start importing sake from Japan. We love watching Australians smile when they taste sake for the first time. What have been some of the challenges since launching Deja vu Sake Co in 2012? The Japanese sake category is still in its developing stage, but we certainly receive more attention now than five years ago. The biggest challenge would definitely be the fact that the majority of Australians have never tasted sake, and creating a new category requires a lot of time, education and training. What does being presented with the title of Sake Samurai mean to you? It is very, very special. I am honoured and very happy. Our goal was to introduce sake into wine-centric Australia, and that goal has been recognised by the Japan sake industry in order to receive this title. We are the only company to bring sake brands off premises through national retail chains like Dan Murphy’s so the Australian consumer can enjoy sake at home as well as in restaurants. What sakes are you currently most excited about? I am interested in aged sake – it has huge potential in a similar way to wine. I also enjoy higher acidity in sake. Sake has generally a third of the acidity found in wine, but some breweries are now producing higher acidity in sake to better suit modern tastes. Australia is a relatively sake producer. What maker should we be looking out for? Go-Shu has been in Sydney for over 20 years. I really respect its continuation and commitment to make Australian sake. The water and rice are different from what Japanese breweries use; Go-Shu uses Sydney water and Australian rice. In that way it is very authentic to Australia. I think Go-Shu offers more rich and fruity character. It has brought sake closer to the Australian consumer for over 20 years, which is really great. Over your career, how have Australian tastes changed and evolved when it comes to sake? Australians are now enjoying various different foods from all over the world. This means that they are looking for something new to pair it with and sake is a great option. Also many Australians are now visiting Japan, and enjoying Japan includes experiencing sake. I hope their desire to feel closer to Japan continues after arriving back in Australia and will encourage them to drink sake at home.

UNCORKED

A. A selection of sake imported by Deja vu Sake Co. B. A bottle of Japanese sake. C. Sake educator and Deja vu Sake Co founder, Yukino Ochiai.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JACKIELYN POWELL

DINING

BOOM TOWN

ONCE A SLEEPY TOURIST AREA, THE CENTRAL COAST IS UNDERGOING A SEISMIC SHIFT AS SYDNEYSIDERS MOVE NORTH. WITH TWO VENUES AND ANOTHER TWO IN STORE, LOCAL RESTAURATEURS HARLEY HARDCASTLE AND CAMERON CANSDELL ARE HELPING PLACE THE REGION ON AUSTRALIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DINING MAP, TOO, AS YASMIN NEWMAN DISCOVERS.

DINING

“T

Above: Blue eye trevalla curry with coconut, fresh turmeric, kaffir and lotus root. Middle: Ceviche with citrus, avocado, coriander and chilli. Below: The Fish Dining interior.

he biggest thing for us is to help create and promote the Central Coast as a dining region,” says Hayley Hardcastle, who, with her partner and chef Cameron Cansdell, is doing just that. Two years after they opened their first restaurant, Bombini, Cansdell took out the lauded national award for Electrolux Young Restaurateur of the Year 2016. Less than a year on, they’ve opened their second shop, Fish Dining, with plans in the works for two more venues in the new year. Hardcastle grew up on the ‘Coast’, as its known by locals, while Cansdell fell for the area during his seven-year tenure as head chef at Bells at Killcare, where Hardcastle also ran front of house. With their venues, the luxe accommodation and fine dining restaurant (fronted until recently by celebrity chef Stefano Manfredi) is one of only a small handful of notable venues in a vast region that spans half the size of Greater Sydney. “Right now, it’s so far from it,” acknowledges Hardcastle of the Central Coast as a dining hot spot. “When we have a day off, we want to try something completely different every time, so we often go to the city to dine.” The region’s issue is three-fold: quantity, quality and diversity. But the opportunity for restaurateurs like Hardcastle and Cansdell is huge and for the taking. At an hour from Sydney, it’s not your average regional area. Long a weekend getaway for Sydneysiders or holiday homeowners, or a day-trip destination, it’s now gentrifying as Sydney’s property market pushes out homebuyers. The commercial centre in Gosford, located 15 minutes from the highway, is undergoing massive redevelopment too, driven by council initiatives and motivated private investors. Basically, it’s about to boom. “A lot more people and young families are calling the Central Coast home. Especially in the last five years,” says Hardcastle, who says the shift has been a boon for seasonality dips. “In tourist destinations, you have much bigger highs and much bigger lows,” adds Cansdell. “But that gap is bridging now, you can feel it.” This winter, Bombini remained open and clientele at both venues now strikes a 60-70 per cent local base. It’s a Friday morning when we meet at Fish Dining, a stone’s throw from the waterfront at Gosford. The whitewashed venue is bathed in natural light and just six weeks in, it’s brimming with lunch diners. As most restaurateurs will attest, their second venue, a seafood restaurant celebrating Australian wild-caught and sustainable catch, has been an easier run. Bombini served as a check list for procedures and systems, but their experience with hiring made an ever bigger difference. “Staffing is always an issue, it doesn’t matter where you are,” says Hardcastle. “But people want security in a job and a new business is uncertain.” Their reputation at Bells helped, but ultimately, they still had to develop that trust. “Fast forward to now, hiring off the back of Bombini? It’s a testament to our business, and the longevity we’ve been able to offer and had in our staff.” They concede the shift to business owners taught them in ways they’d never experienced as management. “It’s completely different,” says Cansdell. “You forget that there are no parameters to your role as owners, you do whatever. But staff want to know exactly what their job is and they don’t want that to change. We’ve found if we set those terms and don’t push beyond that, we get more back in return.” Hardcastle says she thinks back to when she was an employee. “I remember what I loved and what annoyed me, and try to do things a little differently.” A striking turmeric curry of blue-eye trevalla with kaffir lime and louts root heads our way, its intense fragrance signalling its arrival before it hits the table. The dish is a far cry from Bombini’s regional Italian fare and that’s the whole point. The couple are driven by a desire to dish

PHOTOGRAPHY: YASMIN NEWMAN

DINING

Cameron Cansdell and Hayley Hardcastle, Fish Dining.

DINING

Grilled Western Australian marron served with Moroccan chermoula.

“You forget that there are no parameters to your role as owners, you do whatever. But staff want to know exactly what their job is and they don’t want that to change. We’ve found if we set those terms and don’t push beyond that, we get more back in return.” up something different for customers, but also feed their own creative desires. “Having two restaurants has been stressful, but more than anything it’s been fun. I’ve loved being able to do something different and show what else we can offer as a restaurant group,” says Cansdell. While the chef’s overarching philosophy centres on quality ingredients in uncomplicated, elegant preparations, they let the venues drive the food concepts, not the other way around. “With Bombini, all we knew was the way we want to run a service,” says Hardcastle. They were also after a venue that was iconic to the area and when they found it – the beautiful two-acre former home of Rojo Rocket in Avoca Beach – everything else fell into place. “It felt easy,” she says of the space, the relationship with the owners and the ensuing food offering. “And it has to feel easy because there are so many other hard things to do starting a new business.” Likewise, Fish stemmed from a gut feeling. While developing the concept for Bonython, set to be “the biggest, most amazing place on coast”, their future landlord presented them with the space. “We’re a coastal region, but we don’t really have a landmark seafood restaurant that shines in terms of its hospitality excellence,” says Hardcastle. It was a no-brainer. For now, either Hardcastle or Cansdell tries to be on site at each restaurant every day to ensure the group’s culture is on track, but the goal is to give staff room to move and grow, and ultimately have ownership over the venues, not micromanage. “Bombini regulars now ask for the restaurant manager not me,” says Hardcastle proudly. “I love

that, it’s like when we were at Bells.” Instead, they channel their energy into strategy. “We’re re-evaluating what we do every day,” says Cansdell. “We don’t just open up and go this is how it’s always going to operate. Evolving, creating more offerings, even re-invention is very important.” While the pair borrowed staff for the set-up period, they now keep them separate – as much for customers as organisation. “They’re different venues and it’s important to make them feel that way for diners,” says Hardcastle. She gladly acknowledges that certain people love Bombini and not Fish, and vice versa. “Sometimes, you want to associate the buzz and other times keep them apart.” Another dish makes its arrival, this time Western Australian marron grilled with chermoula. It sings. “Locality for me doesn’t have to be around the corner,” says Cansdell when asked about Central Coast catch. Their adherence to local comes back to staff and building up the region. “Between the two restaurants, we now employ 46 people,” says Hardcastle smiling. “I love the idea of being able to employ more people on the Coast.” The two also act as mentors for former staff who are now opening their own venues in the area and encourage all forms of competition. “The more venues there are, the more people dine out,” says Cansdell. “I’m wholly for it.” Just before this article went to print, news broke that Sydney’s Boat House Group purchased the iconic pub in nearby Patonga. The Central Coast is on the rise, and the duo has been instrumental in it. Watch this space.

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TOOL TALK

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TOOL T A L K C

O M P A R I S

THE FRY UP BRING THE SIZZLE TO YOUR COMMERCIAL SET-UP WITH THE RIGHT OIL, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR DEEP FRYING.

TOOL TALK

Right: Fish and chips deep fried in Formula 40 fine oil. Below: A chef preparing chips to be deep fried in Formula 40 fine oil.

n essential part of the commercial kitchen, deep frying transforms even the dullest of ingredients into what can only be described as crispy, golden parcels of pure joy. But in order to do so, your set-up must have the correct equipment. BLUE SEAL EVOLUTION SERIES GAS FRYER The Blue Seal Evolution series deep fryers provides users with durability and performance. Available in single or twin pan models, 400 to 600 millimetres wide, this gas fryer incorporates patented infra-red burners for frying output and recovery. The stainless steel frame of Blue Seal Evolution fryers are easy to clean and come with a 10 year limited warranty. The fryers are available with either mechanical or digital controls. The latter of which offers precise temperature control over a range of from 145ยบC to 195ยบC as well as a temperature digital display. Twin pan models have independent digital controls for each pan and six product timers. FILTAMAX FILTRATION SYSTEM Food residue together with moisture and fatty acids have the potential to ruin the taste of your fried foods by contaminating the oil in which they are cooked. Accordingly, an oil filtration system is a must. The Filtamax filtration system is fully integrated. And when not in use, the system fits neatly underneath any Blue Seal Evolution, Waldorf gas or electric deep fryer, reducing clutter and minimising any issues regarding health and safety in the commercial kitchen. The Filtamax filtration system also offers users significant cost savings. The system removes impurities and food particles

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TOOL TALK

from the oil that would otherwise taint the food, and by doing so, extends the life of the oil by up to 80 per cent. Thus enabling users to produce consistent and tasty menu items. The system is easy to use, taking only 10 minutes to drain, filter and refill a 26 litre tank, all without the need of handling hot oil.

MAGNESOL

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A chef deep-frying chips in Peerless Foodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Formula 40 fine oil.

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FORMULA 40 FINE OIL A uniquely formulated, cottonseed oil, Formula 40 was created for heavy-duty deep frying. Thick, cloudy, and robust base, it ensures both a longer fry life and superior drain-off. Formula 40 also has a neutral oil taste which helps retain foodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural flavour. The 20 litre oil comes in a tin or disposable 15 litre bag in box, and is halal certified. Made from local and imported ingredients, Formula 40 is the frying oil of choice for the William Angliss Institute, the specialist training provider of tourism, hospitality and events industries. MAGNESOL Magnesol is safe, pure and absorbent synthetic magnesium silicate that extends the usable life of oil in deep frying. Having been in production since 1973, Magnesol meets the food grade specifications of such organisations as the Food and Drug Administration (USA), NSF International, and the World Health Organization. It works by removing both solid and dissolved impurities from used edible oils. And by using it on a daily basis, it is able to reduce your oil purchases by up to 50 per cent. This will in turn help reduce operating costs, increase business profitability and maintain crisp, golden and quality fried products. Magnesol is available in 18 kg bulk boxes, portion control packets or filtration pads designed to work with in-built filtration fryers. SHEPHERD FILTERS AIR FILTRATION SYSTEM Made from environmentally-friendly and rapidly renewable, all-natural wool, the Shepherd Filters air filtration system offers foodservice outlets protection for their critical and often difficult to clean kitchen exhaust systems. The system works by keeping the exhaust hood, ducts and roof near grease-free, reducing time, labour and money to clean, maintain and repair their vent hood systems. In addition, the Shepherd Filters System diminishes the threat of fire as the naturally, selfextinguishing wool fibres trap grease that can cause a fire, and prevents the spread of a fire. Easy to install, the Shepherd Filters System can be placed into any existing hood and positioned to trap airborne grease particles replacing the wool filters as necessary is a quick and easy process for employees. Changing one of the wool filters is dramatically easier than taking apart an exhaust hood to clean grease build-up.

Always ensure that you use good quality oil with the correct food-to-oil ratio of 1:6. Top up your fryer regularly to the load level, and recognise that darkened, foaming, smoking or smelling oil means that it is time for new oil.

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PROFILE MANAGEMENT

ONE’S OWN WORST ENEMY AFTER MANY YEARS OF GUIDING AND ADVISING RESTAURATEURS AND OPERATORS, TONY ELDRED URGES OWNERS TO THINK BIG PICTURE AND TO RELEASE THE MANAGEMENT REINS IF IT MEANS LEADING TO A MORE PROFITABLE BUSINESS.

MANA

GEMENT

TO NY ELDRE D FOOD S E RV IC E

ome of the biggest challenges I face are the problems associated with changing the behaviour of business owners who come to us for assistance. It can get quite scary at times – you often have to bite the hand that feeds you. The person who employs you is often at the root of the problem, and has to be dealt with first. That’s why the other key person in my company for many years was a psychologist – some of the things we have to deal with require professional sensitivity and skills that I don’t possess.

Sorting out dictatorships is an interesting process because it requires the owner to accept radical change. I’ve even had one say to me, straight-faced, “I want you to fix it, but don’t change anything. I’m happy the way it is.”

Tony Eldred operates Eldred Hospitality Pty Ltd, 'The Hospitality Specialists'. Contact him on (03) 9813 3311 or at eldtrain.com.au.

We usually have first contact with business owners at times of stress. I sometimes joke that our ideal customer can’t hold a coffee cup with a steady hand. That’s an exaggeration, but it’s not too far from the truth. One of the sad things I’ve noted is that pride usually prevents them from seeking assistance until a problem becomes a crisis. A well-conceived business will usually grow with a will of

its own – it gets some kind of inertia. Word of mouth referral creates pressure for expansion which is fuelled by the owner’s desire for increased status and more complex challenges. One day they wake up and find that they’ve created a monster that has yielded financial success but has totally destroyed their lives. At the heart of most megastressed business owners lies a totalitarian dictator. Their obsessiveness and desire to stamp their personality on everything they do causes a reluctance to delegate decision making responsibilities to their staff. They don’t trust them to do the right thing, so they manage by giving tasks rather than responsibilities. Sorting out dictatorships is an interesting process because it requires the owner to accept radical change. I’ve even had one say to me, straight-faced, “I want you to fix it, but don’t change anything. I’m happy the way it is.” He wasn’t stupid, he was just threatened by the unknown and wanted to cling onto the past like a comfortable, old overcoat. I believe that old Chinese adage best encapsulates the necessity for change: 'If you don’t change your direction, you’ll end up where you’re headed.' If you’re

not emotionally involved it’s easy to accept the logic, but if you’re too close, it’s much harder. You also have to understand peoples’ psychological needs or you can come unstuck. What an owner will tell you when they are stressed to the point of insanity may be entirely different to what they will say when the pressure is off. For instance, we once had a business owner who engaged us to structure his resort business so he could free himself from crisis management and concentrate on property development. After a nationwide search we employed an excellent general manager, who won the respect of the staff and began to professionally restructure the business. Then we got a phone call from the new GM saying the owner was refusing to talk to him or return his calls; and the staff told us the owner was moping around saying things like: “Don’t talk to me, I’m only the maintenance man.” The penny then dropped. The owner’s needs for selfesteem and status were no longer being met and he was sabotaging the changes he had requested we make. He walked in and fired the GM soon after and grabbed his old job back. Since then we’ve had several very stressed phone

MANAGEMENT

calls from him, but there’s not a lot we can do to help. He is not really suited to running his own business and not willing to step aside and let somebody else do it a different way. Businesses can easily grow beyond the owner’s ability to run them. The attributes and skills necessary to start and run a small business are vastly different to those necessary to manage a larger business. At some stage you have to accept a complete change in leadership philosophy and hand over major responsibilities to others.

It’s very difficult to learn ‘company’ management by experience alone – making mistakes at the top of a sizeable pyramid can get horribly expensive. When you think about it, the very attributes that are needed to start a business – passion, single mindedness, obsession and strength of character – can get in the way when you are trying to let go and create a management structure below you. It’s often easier to keep diving in all the time because then you know it will get done right if you do it yourself.

In spite of the grey hairs they give me, I admire most of the people I deal with immensely. Most of them have skills and talents that I don’t possess, and are unlikely to ever possess. A few are very gifted artistically and have enriched our industry with their creativity and their innate understanding of what hospitality is all about. Most of all, they are doing something for themselves, with a positive, can-do attitude. The business owners I deal with have brought me the best moments I’ve had and some of the very worst.

TRADE TALK PROFILE

A FOODSERVICE YEAR IN REVIEW IT’S BEEN A BIG YEAR FOR THE AUSTRALIAN FOODSERVICE SECTOR WITH A GREAT MANY SUCCESSES AND HIGHS TO CELEBRATE, AS WELL AS LOSSES AND CHALLENGES TO WEATHER AND REFLECT UPON. AND AS FOODSERVICE MAGAZINE WRAPS UP FOR 2017, EDITOR ANITA CONNORS LOOKS BACK OVER THE PAST 12 MONTHS AND CONSIDERS THE KEY EVENTS TO EFFECT THE INDUSTRY.

TRADE TA L K

Clockwise from top left: Nikki Friedli, KayLene Tan, Danielle Gjestland, and Kylie Javier Ashton, winners of the 2017 Women of Foodservice Awards; MAdE Establishment’s George Calombaris; Ben Shewry and Dan Hunter, whose respective restaurants featured on the 2017 World’s 50 Best Restaurants list; Chin Chin Sydney; the winners of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards; and Bistrode CBD’s Jeremy Strode, who tragically passed away in July.

t has been dynamic 12 months for the industry. These are some of the trends and events to impact the face and flavour of Australian foodservice. RESTAURANT GROUPS The sale of Neil Perry’s Rockpool Group to Urban Purveyor Group in November 2016 set the tone for the coming year, namely the expansion and consolidation of restaurant groups nationwide. These colossuses are streamlining operations and thus maximising profits while minimising costs and overheads. Not long after the creation of Rockpool Dining Group, Shannon Bennett revealed that he had sold a majority stake in the Vue Group to Singapore property developers in a near $15 million deal. Merivale expanded its empire with further pushes into the Northern Beaches (The Collaroy for a reported $21 million),

Sydney’s south-east (Tennyson Hotel for $37.5 million) and the Inner West (Vic on the Park for $25 million). Similarly, Matt Moran and Bruce Solomon increased Solotel’s holdings with the purchase of the Clovelly Hotel in Sydney’s eastern suburbs for a reported $30 million, as well as Newtown’s Marlborough Hotel. They are also expecting to open their new three-level restaurant, Barangaroo Hotel, before the end of the year. George Calombaris’ MAdE Establishment also reached the Emerald City with their Jimmy Grants souvlaki chain, as did The Lucas Group with Chin Chin Sydney. FOOD WASTE The foodservice industry embraced the notion of reducing food waste. Recognising the strain that 250,000 tonnes of food waste places on farming, the

environment and their bottom lines every year, commercial kitchens increasingly worked to better organise their operations and purchasing as they did with improving staff ’s cooking skill sets and the writing of their menus. Keen to explore this, foodservice partnered with Unilever Food Solutions in March to conduct a roundtable on what more the sector could do to decrease raw waste, prepared food waste and plate waste. The discussion raised many propositions, including education programs, staff mentorship and the incorporation of sustainable practices in the commercial kitchen. Tom Kim, executive chef of Goodtime Hospitality Group, noted, “I think that everyone genuinely would like to do better and they want to be shown how to do it, and it needs to be easy and accessible so that they can.”

TRADE TALK

To help facilitate this, foodservce has teamed up with the NSW Environment Protection Authority’s Love Food Hate Waste initiative to bring our readers practical and real advice about combating food waste. The Your Business is Food program, which launched in September, is an Australianfirst that provides businesses with everything they might need to know about where they are wasting food and how to limit it. Trials of the program has reduced food by an average of 21 per cent. Our partnership will extend into next year so there is definitely more to come.

457 VISAS The Federal Government announced changes to the 457 visa in March. Under the populist banner of wanting local jobs to go to Australians, foreign workers have been restricted from key occupations across several sectors. Discouraging talented foodservice professionals from coming to Australia seems to overlook the central role that 457 visas have long played in our industry. Moreover, the changes have the far-reaching potential to worsen the significant and serious lack of skilled labour in Australia.

Sydney chef and restaurateur of The Restaurant Pendolino, Nino Zoccali, believes other impacts “will be on cost (marked increases over time), quality (dropping across the board), and decreased diversity and creativity. Without the adequate resources to do great things, the industry will be seriously disadvantaged and it will ultimately be felt by the customer.” WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS In April, all eyes were on Melbourne when the 15th annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards came to town. A significant coup, it has helped

strengthen Australia’s culinary kudos while spotlighting our talented chefs, restaurateurs and producers. And while the ‘the list’ has quite rightly been criticised for being male-dominant, Europeancentric and degustation-focused, it is fundamentally a celebration of cuisines and cultures from across the globe. This year, 22 countries from five continents were represented with the top spot going to New York’s Eleven Madison Park. Australia had two establishments make the cut with Ben Shewry’s Attica coming in at No.32, and Dan Hunter’s Brae entering the ranking for the first time at No.44.

TRADE TALK

“In our industry, it can all slip through your hands very quickly. Despite being busy and critically acclaimed, you can still fail. It is wise not to forget that when you are basking in the glow of your own success.”

50 NEXT GENERATION TOP AUSSIE CHEFS That same month, foodservice released its own special list, the 50 Next Generation Top Aussie Chefs. Showcasing the young guns who have demonstrated success and leadership in their respective venues, the Next Gen compendium reflects the who’s who helping to define the future of our culinary landscape. The Next Gen list is a true representation of the skill, creativity and diversity of Australia’s foodservice sector. Just as importantly, our Next Gen list shows the broadening of destination dining in Australia. As Adam Bantock, one of the chefs to make the cut and restaurateur of Yass’ Clementine, said, “These days, out in the regions, it’s a lot more multicultural, there’s more people flocking from the cities to the country and they’re bringing with them a better culture of dining, because they’re used to it.”

LOSS OF AN INDUSTRY GREAT In July, the foodservice sector was shocked by the death of Jeremy Strode, executive chef of Merivale restaurant Bistrode CBD. The positive to come from this dark and difficult chapter was the conversation its ignited about mental health and the highpressure conditions in which chefs work. In turn, this saw the industry vitalise support for such charities as R U OK? and beyondblue, which strive to raise awareness about anxiety and depression. Chefs and operators also sought to implement changes in the running of their businesses and to ensure a genuine work-life balance for staff. Perhaps the most high-profile cuisinier to do so was Shewry. In a heartfelt post on Instagram, he revealed that Attica had instigated a four-day working week: “Changing the roster structure to accommodate the fact that cooks are humans, not machines and indeed can have lives as well has been cathartic for not only the team but also the business.

We get an elite 48 hours out of each of them and all of our cooks can work on multiple sections at any given moment, becoming multi-skilled in the process.” WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS Foodservice also held the very first Women in Foodservice Awards in September and in partnership with Fine Food Australia. A new awards program, it recognises and champions the professional achievements of the female leaders and trailblazers working in the foodservice industry. We see it as the perfect means by which to celebrate the women disrupting the status quo and reimagining the business of food. Danielle Gjestland, winner of the top gong and restaurateur of Noosa’s Wasabi Restaurant & Bar, had these words of advice, “In our industry, it can all slip through your hands very quickly. Despite being busy and critically acclaimed, you can still fail. It is wise not to forget that when you are basking in the glow of your own success.”

Clockwise from top left: Rockpool Dining Group’s chief brand and culinary officer, Neil Perry, and CEO, Thomas Pash; Justin Hemmes, CEO of Merivale; Adam Bantock, restaurateur of Yass’ Clementine; chef; and the foodservice roundtable on food waste.

RECIPE

entrée

GILI GOLD’S RYE SOURDOUGH PREPARATION TIME: 15 MINUTES COOK TIME: 60 MINUTES MAKES: 1 LOAF (900 G)

SOURDOUGH STARTER PREPARATION TIME: 6-7 DAYS

TO BEGIN YOUR STARTER

TO FEED YOUR STARTER

1 cup organic unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup cool non-chlorinated water

D A Y 1 Combine the organic unbleached all-purpose flour with water in a non-reactive container. Stir everything together thoroughly; make sure there’s no dry flour anywhere. Cover the container loosely and let the mixture sit at warm room temperature, or 21ºC for 24 hours. D A Y 2 You may see no activity at all in the first 24 hours, or you may see a bit of growth or bubbling. Either way, discard half the starter (about ½ cup), and add 1 cup organic unbleached all-purpose flour, and ½ cup cool water to the remaining starter. Mix well, cover, and let the mixture rest at room temperature for 24 hours. D A Y 3 By now you will see some activity — bubbling; a fresh, fruity aroma, and some evidence of expansion. Begin feeding the starter

twice daily, as evenly spaced as possible. Discard half the starter (about ½ cup), and add 1 cup organic unbleached allpurpose flour, and ½ cup cool water to the remaining starter. Mix well, cover, and let the mixture rest approximately 12 hours before repeating. D A Y 4 Discard half the starter (about ½ cup), and add 1 cup organic unbleached all-purpose flour, and ½ cup cool water to the remaining starter. Mix well, cover, and let the mixture rest approximately 12 hours before repeating. D A Y 5 Your starter should have at least doubled in volume. You’ll also see lots of fine bubbles. The starter should have a tangy aroma — pleasantly acidic, but not overpowering. If your starter hasn’t risen much and isn’t showing lots of bubbles, repeat

discarding and feeding every 12 hours on day 6, and day 7, if necessary — as long as it takes to create the tangy aroma. Once the starter is ready, give it one last feeding. Discard most of the starter, leaving 200 g. Feed as usual. Let the starter rest at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours; it should be active, with bubbles breaking the surface. When mixing the sourdough recipe remove however much starter you need for your recipe and transfer the remaining minimum 200 g of starter to a crock, jar, or container for the long-term. Feed this reserved starter with 1 cup of flour and ½ cup water, and let it rest at room temperature for 2-3 hours to get going, before refrigerating. Store this starter in the refrigerator, and feed it regularly with a scant 1 cup flour and ½ cup water once a week.

RECIPE

RYE SOURDOUGH 300 g water

300 g organic strong white flour

100 g rye sourdough starter

10 g fine sea salt mixed with 15 g cold water

200 g organic wholemeal flour

Semolina for dusting baking tray

M I X I N G Add all ingredients to a mixer bowl. Mix for 3 minutes on slow speed. Increase the speed to fast and continue mixing for 8 minutes until all ingredients come together into a large ball. Cover with a clean damp tea- towel and allow the dough to rest for 1½ hours. F O L D I N G Knock dough down and fold the dough over on itself. Cover with a clean damp tea towel and allow it to rest for 1½ hours.Knock dough down again and fold the dough over on itself. Cover with a damp tea towel and allow it to rest for 1 hour.

S H A P I N G Dust work bench lightly with flour. Add dough to surface then place into a round banneton that has been dusted with flour. Dust the top with flour, then cover with a damp tea towel. P R O V I N G Transfer to the fridge and leave it to prove for 8-12 hours. B A K I N G The next morning, preheat your oven to 220ºC for at least 30 minutes before you’re ready to bake. Place your baking tray in the oven and a large pot of boiling Gili Gold is the director and head baker of Sydney’s Bake Bar.

water underneath. NB. The water helps form a lovely crust. Once the oven has reached full temperature, carefully remove the baking tray from the oven and dust lightly with semolina. Flip dough onto baking tray and slash the top with a blade. This determines where the bread will tear as it rises. Bake for 10 minutes at 220ºC. Then reduce heat to 180ºC and bake for another 50 minutes or until your crust is as dark as you like it. The darker the crust, the more flavour your bread will have. Allow to cool before slicing.

RECIPE

main

JAMES WALLIS’ WHOLE BAKED, FIVE-SPICE CRUSTED PINK SNAPPER WITH STRING HOPPERS AND COCONUT MOLEE SERVES 2

COCONUT MOLEE SAUCE 3 tsp brown onion, finely diced

3 cm piece of cassia bark

1 tsp ginger, peeled and chopped

1 tin coconut cream

¼ tsp Kashmiri chilli powder

1 tsp coconut oil

2 green cardamom pods

¼ tsp turmeric powder

10 curry leaves

Salt

¼ tsp black mustard seeds

100 ml water

¼ tsp fennel seeds

1 lime, juiced

M E T H O D Heat a sauce pan and add the coconut oil. When hot, add the mustard seeds and allow to crackle, add the remaining spices, onion and ginger, and cook until the onions are soft but not colored and the raw flavour of the spices are cooked out. Add the water, coconut milk and lime juice and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Pass the ingredients through a sieve and discard the spices. Season with salt and serve with the fish. NB. Australian ingredients and spices compliment masalas, Indu often swaps out or adds ingredients such as wattle seed, pepper berry or bush tomato to experiment with new masala blends.

SNAPPER PARCELS 1 pink snapper 800g-1kg, gutted, scaled (Can be substituted with similar sized fish or fillets of fish) Banana leaf (enough to wrap the fish) ¼ head fennel, shaved 1 lime sliced Five-spice mix String hoppers

M E T H O D Lay the banana leaf on a flat surface and then place in the center the cooked string hoppers. Next coat the fish in the five-spice mix as well as fill the belly cavity together with the fennel. Place the fish on top of the hoppers then top with the lime slices. Wrap the banana leaf around the fish, making a tight parcel. NB. If cooking on a barbecue, wrap an additional layer of tinfoil to protect the banana leaf from the open flame. Cook the fish at 180°C for around 15-20 minutes depending on the size of the fish. Once cooked, remove from the foil packaging, if using, and serve with the coconut molee.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GUY DAVIES

RECIPE

STRING HOPPERS

FIVE-SPICE MIX

100 g white rice flour

½ tsp nigella

150 ml water

½ tsp fennel

20 ml vegetable oil

½ tsp cumin ½ tsp fenugreek

M E T H O D Place the water and oil in a saucepan and then bring to the boil. Pour the liquid into a bowl containing the flour. Knead the mix together until it is smooth. Next, place the mixture in a string hopper press and then extrude the dough from the press. Place the string hoppers into a steam oven or steamer basket and steam for 5 minutes, or until cooked.

½ tsp mustard seed

M E T H O D Place all the ingredients on a baking tray and roast in a pre-heated oven at 180°C for 5 minutes, or until lightly coloured. James Wallis is the head chef of Sydney's Indu.

RECIPE

dessert KEITH JONES’ TORCHED ORANGE TART WITH BLOOD ORANGE GEL AND CITRUS MERINGUE MAKES 12 TARTS

TART 90 g unsalted butter 65 g caster sugar 3 egg yolks 200 g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 lime zest Freeze dried blood orange Purple basil leaves

M E T H O D Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl until well combined. Then one by one, beat in the egg yolks until fully incorporated into the mixture. Fold through the lime zest. Then add the flour and work the mixture delicately until a ball of dough is formed. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Then on a lightly floured work surface, knead the dough until smooth. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes. Alternatively, it can be frozen for use at a later date. When ready to be used, sprinkle some flour on your work surface. Divide the dough into 12 portions and then use a rolling pin to roll each portion into even square shapes. Line 12 square molds (7 x 7cm) and bake blind for 12 minutes or until golden. Remove from the oven and set aside.

ORANGE CURD

CITRUS MERINGUE

2 large eggs

60 g egg whites

65 g caster sugar

120 g caster sugar

90 ml premium orange juice

Zest of ¼ lemon

165 g unsalted butter

Zest of ¼ orange 1 tsp lemon juice

M E T H O D Heat a small saucepan over a low heat and add the orange juice and butter. Allow to melt then bring to the boil. In a separate bowl, whisk the whole eggs and sugar until light and fluffy. Then slowly mix in the juice blend. Return the mixture back to the pan and stir until thickens. Set aside until required.

¼ tsp cornflour

M E T H O D In a large bowl, whip the egg whites until foamy. Gradually beat in the sugar and cornflour until the mixture is light and fluffy. The add the zest and juice. Mix well and set aside.

PHOTOGRAPHY: NIKKI BLACK

RECIPE

BLOOD ORANGE GEL 100 ml The Juice Farm rosso blood orange juice 3 g Xanthan gum powder

M E T H O D In a small bowl, add the juice and gum powder. Blend until a gel like consistency forms. If the mixture is too thick, add a little more juice.

T O A S S E M B L E Fill the tart shells with orange curd, and gently tap to create a level surface. Pipe a number of different sized meringues on top of the curd, before gently scorching the meringues with a blowtorch. Next pipe on balls of the blood orange gel. Garnish with a sprinkling of freeze dried blood orange pieces and purple basil. Chill until ready to serve.

Keith Jones is the group executive chef of No. 1 William at the Australian Museum in Sydney.

MOUTHFUL

Wholemeal or whole grain breads One in five are a good source of protein.

Wake up & smell the coffee

Source: Grains & Legumes Nutrition Council

Aussies drink 12.1 billion cups of coffee a year... thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot! Source: Food Industry Foresight

MOUTHFUL Meat cute Last year, Australia was the largest exporter of beef and the second largest exporter of sheepmeat, making us, in all, the third largest livestock exporter globally. Source: Red Meat Advisory Council

One-in-three Aussies About 31 per cent of surveyed Australians have admitted to dining at a particular venue just so they could order a dish that they had seen on social media. Source: OpenTable

Tweet tracker Why you fucking going out to eat if you are in a rush??? #AskYourself Source: @VentingWaiter

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