FSN Sep 2017

Women in Foodservice Awards 2017– Meet all the winners Mjølner – The viking-themed venue shaking up Sydney’s restaurant scene Your Business is Food – How best to fight food waste Gin Genie – Four Pillars’ Stuart Gregor on launching a uniquely Australian gin

PABLO TORDESILLAS GARCIA & JOSEPH GIUFFRE’S SALTIMBOCCA DI PESCE

Recipe

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Asian-Flavoured Chicken Parcels

Teriyaki Salmon

Steamed Asparagus Dressed in Roasted Sesame Sauce

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foodservicenews.com.au

PUBLISHER HELEN DAVIES

EDITOR ANITA CONNORS (02) 9213 8335 anitaconnors@yaffa.com.au CONSULTING EDITOR JILL DUPLEIX

CONTRIBUTORS Tony Eldred, Tim Grey, Lisa Hasen, Anthony Huckstep, Amanda Kane, Yasmin Newman, John Susman

September 2017 Women in Foodservice Awards 2017– Meet all the winners Mjølner – The viking-themed venue shaking up Sydney’s restaurant scene Your Business is Food – How best to fight food waste

PABLO TORDESILLAS GARCIA & JOSEPH GIUFFRE’S SALTIMBOCCA DI PESCE

Recipe

Gin Genie – Four Pillars’ Stuart Gregor on launching a uniquely Australian gin

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ART DIRECTOR ANA MARIA HERAUD STUDIO MANAGER LAUREN ESDAILE DESIGNER STÉPHANIE BLANDIN DE CHALAIN

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FOODSERVICE NEWS is published by Yaffa Media Pty Ltd ABN 54 002 699 354 17-21 Bellevue Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 Ph: (02) 9281 2333 Fax: (02) 9281 2750 All mail to: GPO Box 606, Sydney NSW 2001 ISSN 1328-9039 MEMBER CIRCULATIONS AUDIT BOARD

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Table of Contents

FEATURES

REGULARS

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MEET JO WARD AND MICHELLE POWELL

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THE HEAD CHEFS AND CO-OWNERS OF POTTS POINT’S BISTRO REX.

READY TO RUMBLE. ANTHONY HUCKSTEP HAS AN APPETITE FOR DECONSTRUCTION, OR DOES HE?

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YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD

42 INSIDER

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VALHALLA RISING

44 PRODUCE

27

WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

48 MANAGEMENT

THE EPA’S AMANDA KANE DISCUSSES THE COMMERCIAL BENEFITS OF FIGHTING FOOD WASTE.

BY THE HAMMER OF THOR! YASMIN NEWMAN HEADS TO MJØLNER, SYDNEY’S VIKING-THEMED RESTAURANT.

THE COUNTRY HAS BEEN SCOURED, WHO WILL COME OUT ON TOP IN THE INAUGURAL WIFA?

HUCK’S RANT

LEGENDS, THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY IS FILLED WITH THEM. JILL DUPLEIX ARGUES FOR THE CREATION OF NATIONAL REGISTRAR TO RECOGNISE THEM ALL.

WITH STOCKS OF THE SOUTHERN BLUEFIN TUNA ON THE UP, NOW IS THE TIME TO ADD THIS SUSTAINABLYSOURCED FISH TO YOUR MENU.

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P. 46

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HIGH FOOD COSTS AFFECT EVERY VENUE, BUT INVOLVING FRONT OF HOUSE IN THE DISCUSSION CAN HELP TO KEEP THEM IN CHECK.

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APPETITE FOR DECONSTRUCTION NUMBERS P. G A40 ME

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GEMENT MANA TONY E LDRE D FOOD SERVICE

2 CHEFS ARE BETTER THAN 1 P. 10

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R E S T A U R A N T S & B A R S

WIFA 2017 P. 27

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MARGIN CALL P. 48

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A CHANGE IN DINING HOURS P. 7

DON’T THROW IT AWAY P. 12

TABLES

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EDITORIAL

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his month, foodservice magazine has the great honour of hosting the first annual Women in Foodservice Awards. To be held at Sydney’s Cyren Restaurant in partnership with Fine Food Australia, this new awards program celebrates and recognises the professional achievements of the female trailblazers and leaders working in the foodservice industry today.

Opening the program for nominations earlier this year, we were quickly blown away by the level of interest we received from around the country.

I must congratulate everyone who entered. It has been a real privilege finding out the individual stories of the many talented and creative women driving our foodservice industry.

A big thank you must also go to fellow judges Jill Dupleix and Christine Manfield for their support and guidance. It was no easy task selecting our 17 finalists from the 400 entries we received.

This year we will be presenting five awards: Chef of the Year, Restaurant Manager of the Year, Outstanding Service, Rising Star, and the big one, the Unilever Food Solutions Leading Woman in Foodservice Award.

They have all made their mark growing their respective businesses, as well as shaping the industry at large.

Our front runners are women disrupting the status quo. And who, through outstanding leadership, drive and contributions to the foodservice sector, are inspiring other women to succeed.

They also reflect a fantastic and diverse cross section of Australia, hailing from the Northern Territory, New South Wales, South Australia, Victoria and Queensland.

To read about all our winners, please turn to our special feature on page 27 of the magazine.

Enjoy the September issue.

Anita Connors Editor

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STARTERS

Just Opened

Glacé

Joe’s Table

The Modern Eatery

DESSERT QUEEN CHRISTY TANIA’S FIRST PERMANENT VENUE 1A Peel Street Email: info@glacefrozen.com Windsor VIC 3181 glacefrozen.com

EX-PHAMISH, LONGRAIN & SAILORS THAI BAND TOGETHER 1/28 Kings Lane Darlinghurst Phone: (02) 8385 7110 NSW 2010 facebook.com/joes-table

PERTH SUSHI HOUSE SETS UP SHOP IN MELBOURNE 176 Swan Street Phone: (03) 9421 0089 Richmond VIC 3121 themoderneatery.com.au

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OPENINGS R E S T A U R A N T S & B A R S

Workshop Kitchen QUALITY HOTEL POWERHOUSE’S MULTIMILLION-$ REBUILD 248 Armidale Road Phone: (02) 6766 7000 East Tamworth NSW 2340 powerhousetamworth.com.au

NEW, NOTED, INTERESTING Across the country, here are Australia’s newest restaurants.

Rosetta Ristorante THE MELBOURNE VENUE GETS A SYDNEY SPIN-OFF 118 Harrington Street Phone: (02) 8099 7089 Sydney NSW 2000 rosettarestaurant.com.au

Misfits Bar & Dining

China Diner

Bang Bang Bar

BAR, LOUNGE AND RESTAURANT ALL-IN-ONE Level 1, 106 George Street Phone: (02) 9318 1497 Redfern NSW 2016 misfitsredfern.com.au

BONDI DUMPLING HOUSE EXPANDS TO DOUBLE BAY 16 Kiaora Road Phone: (02) 9326 1900 Double Bay NSW 2028 chinadiner.com.au

SISTER BAR LAUNCHES ADJACENT TO SICHUAN BANG BANG 167 Given Terrace Phone: 07 3369 1311 Paddington QLD 4064 sichuanbangbang.com.au

TURNING NUMBERSTABLES GAME

A CHANGE HEADLINE IN DINING 1 HOURS – DINNER SATURDAY AT 7:30?

NO THANKS INTRO

THIS MONTH, LISA HASEN CONSIDERS THE SHIFTING HABITS OF AUSTRALIAN DINERS AS THEY MOVE AWAY FROM THE WEEKEND AND TOWARDS THE MIDDLE OF THE WEEK.

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or years, I’ve heard restaurants some fun into the weekly routine Ensuring a restaurant has a GAME complain about diners all (26 per cent) and there is more nimble, easy-to-drive platform wanting to be seated at the availability when dining at ‘offwill enhance your efficiency same time on the same day, smack- peak’ ui ut as dolecum as et quas quisitas corerum, faccati doloratur aut am quatest times (17 per cent). in satisfying thecuptat. ever-evolving A Bmi, L essinctotate ES bang in the middle of the dinner apiendis quiat audipsum Aliqui blautecab id just quamus quissin eat T dolut This trend is likely fuelled by consumer.

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Et dipsalibus torpore deals onstevan@dimmi.com.au. offer (27 per cent), it adds demmeaningful ways.volupid

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STARTERS

Rosetta Ristorante spin-off opens in Sydney The sister restaurant to Melbourne’s award-winning restaurant has opened in the Sydney CBD. See us at Fine Foods

Delivering classic Italian fare over three levels and an outdoor terrace, the new Rosetta Ristorante channels the Amalfi Coast with a colour palette of emerald green and sapphire blue, as well as a seafood-centric menu.

Rockpool Dining Group culinary and brands director Neil Perry is thrilled with the new Rosetta Ristorante menu.

He says, “The seafood and produce we’re sourcing is second to none, the freshness and flavours will speak for themselves and we’ll tease out those stunning characteristics with a simple Italian touch.”

118 Harrington Street The Rocks NSW 2000 rosettarestaurant.com.au

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Merivale buys The Collaroy Hospitality group, Merivale, has added The Collaroy to its Northern Beaches porfolio. The beachside hotel joins Papi Chulo in Manly and The Newport on the Pittwater estuary.

Justin Hemmes, CEO of Merivale, says, "The Collaroy is in a truly spectacular location, with sweeping views of the ocean and sand literally at its door step.

"I love the Northern Beaches; it is a magnificent area and we are incredibly proud to be part of it."

Packaging with peace of mind When you partner with Marinucci, packaging becomes a breeze. We’ve spent 50 years perfecting our innovative and sustainable products, custom branding solutions, advanced logistics and impeccable client service.

The result? You spend less time managing packaging and more time on what you love: food, coffee and customers.

EXPLORE THE RANGE ON OUR WEBSITE

Award-winning pastry chef Lauren Eldridge joins Van Haandel Group The Van Haandel Group has appointed Lauren Eldridge as their new group head pastry chef.

The former Josephine Pignolet Award-winner is working with the teams at venues including Stokehouse (St Kilda and Q), Pontoon and Fatto Bar & Cantina to create a new series of desserts.

Owner Frank Van Haandel says, “It’s a real coup to have Lauren join our Group, bringing further youth and ingenuity to our team.”

VISIT US AT STAND B20 FINE FOOD AUSTRALIA 11-14 SEPTEMBER 2017 Talk to us today 1300 737 710 email sales@marinucci.com.au or visit www.marinucci.com.au

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PROFILE

(L-R) Michelle Powell and Jo Ward, head chefs and co-owners of Potts Point’s Bistro Rex.

PROFILE

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TWO CHEFS ARE BETTER THAN ONE JO WARD AND MICHELLE POWELL RUN THE KITCHEN AT POTTS POINT’S BUZZY BISTRO REX IN A DOUBLE ACT THAT IS REWRITING THE OLD SCHOOL RULES ON MULTIPLE OWNERSHIP, KITCHEN HIERARCHY AND GENDER. THEIR CORE BELIEF, AS JILL DUPLEIX DISCOVERS, IS A SIMPLE ONE: JUST GOOD OLD-FASHIONED HOSPITALITY.

“J

o has the business brain,” says Michelle Powell. “But I can reach things.” It’s a sign of their great working relationship that Jo Ward doesn’t even flinch at the reference to her height (151 centimetres, or four foot eleven and a half inches). “Whatever kitchen I work in, I always bring a step with me to stand on,” she says cheerfully.

They both learnt their trade close to home, with Powell getting her start at the local KFC in Parramatta. “I absolutely

TO P

PROFILE CHEF

“To this day, if I see a fast food place on someone’s resume, I’ll give them a go.

They don’t necessarily learn how to cook, but they definitely learn a good work ethic.”

Bistro Rex 50 Macleay Street Potts Point bistrorex.com.au

loved it,” she says. “To this day, if I see a fast food place on someone’s resume, I’ll give them a go. They don’t necessarily learn how to cook, but they definitely learn a good work ethic.”

Ward had put her schooling on hold to act as bone marrow donor for her cancer-stricken sister, then fell into an apprenticeship in a small country restaurant in Victoria’s Rutherglen. “I did everything,” she recalls. “Set up the restaurant, cleaned the toilets, did the gardening, shook down the wild olives for curing, made the pretzels, you name it.”

She worked for Dietmar Sawyere in Melbourne, then with Cheong Liew at the Grange in Adelaide for ten years.

In Sydney, she moved in and out of fine dining – China Doll (where she met Powell), Claude’s - before opening the game-changing Bloodwood in Newtown in 2010 with partners Claire van Vuuren and Mitchell Grady. “I lost 10.5 kg in one week opening that place,” she says.

“I didn’t sleep for three days straight.”

In spite of its runaway success, the partnership foundered and she extracted herself, painfully, from the business.

Powell was by then private-cheffing for a family in Europe. “One summer down in the Peloponnese was just so busy I knew I needed help, and Jo was my lifeline.” Powell was also Ward’s lifeline. “It was just what I needed,” she says.

Both chefs were back floating around Sydney in early 2017 when Peter Curcuruto, Baci Moore, and Michael and Marlee Anker began planning Bistro Rex, with Nick Bowden, Kirk Mathews and Josh Dunne. It was the perfect fit. The bustling, copper-lined bistro has been full since day one in March, the chefs going through 300 kilogram sirloin a week for the steak frites, and another 30 kilograms for the mighty T-Rex cote de boeuf.

They still do every shift together, lunch and dinner, seven days a week. How does that work? “There’s no ego getting in the way,” says Ward.

As if to prove it, Powell says Ward is one of the most talented chefs in this country. “Not just female chefs, either,” she adds. “Hopefully we are past all that nonsense now.”

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YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD

YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD – DON’T THROW IT AWAY IN A NEW COLUMN FOR FOODSERVICE MAGAZINE, NSW ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AUTHORITY’S AMANDA KANE DISCUSSES THE LAUNCH OF THE NEW INITIATIVE ‘YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD’, AND HOW COMBATTING FOOD WASTE IN THE COMMERCIAL KITCHEN IS GOOD FOR YOUR BOTTOM DOLLAR, GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND GOOD FOR DRIVING TRADE.

YOUR BUSINESS IS FOOD

Y O U R

BUSINESS IS

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ood waste costs the Australian economy dearly.

The statistics are alarming.

In New South Wales alone, 170,000 tonnes of food waste ends up in landfill every year.

The cost of food waste to business alone goes way beyond disposal, adding up from the lost expenditure on the food itself, to wasted staff time in managing and preparing it, to customer dissatisfaction over large portion sizes or guilt at wasting money.

“If plate waste is where most food is wasted, the program recommends simple things like offering smaller portion sizes, reducing garnish or offering customers a takeaway container to enjoy the leftovers later.”

For more information about the Your Business is Food program and how you can sign up, go to lovefoodhatewaste. nsw.gov.au/business.

Food waste also costs our environment greatly. It generates methane, a powerful greenhouse gas when it ends up landfill and it’s a waste of the resources it took to grow, transport and process the food to get it to your door.

Much of this waste is avoidable and with evidence that simple actions can reduce food waste in businesses, the New South Wales Government has a developed a new education program for the industry, being launched this month in partnership with foodservice magazine.

This program, entitled Your Business is Food, is an Australianfirst which has been developed as part of the NSW Environment Protection Authority’s Love Food Hate Waste (LFHW) program.

It provides, in three simple steps, everything a food business might need to know about where they’re wasting food and what can be done about it.

Tests in the field showed it helped participating business cut food waste by an average of 21 per cent. Some businesses, like the Rose & Crown Hotel in Parramatta, cut food waste by more than half.

“The three main areas where food is wasted in food business in Australia are in preparation, storage and on plates,” says Sarah Chen, senior project officer at Love Food Hate Waste.

“It’s different in every business. A lot depends on the type of restaurant, the menu and even the customer.”

Chen says that a business starts by separating and measuring food waste over three to five days in three buckets or bins. One bin captures preparation waste, one captures spoilage waste and one captures plate waste from customers.

The results are then compared against the industry average, and any area where the venue ranks higher than the industry average means that they have an opportunity to reduce their food waste and business costs.

“If plate waste is where most food is wasted, the program recommends simple things like offering smaller portion sizes, reducing garnish or offering customers a takeway container to enjoy the leftovers later,” Chen says.

“The program kit includes stickers for takeaway containers

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highlighting food safety tips, coasters, posters and an action guide.

“Seventy-one per cent of customers say they like it if a restaurant offers a doggy bag or takeaway container. They get to enjoy the food later, they talk about it later and they feel good about the restaurant.”

Customers feeling good about the restaurant’s efforts to reduce food waste came through strongly in the trials of the program, alongside improvements in staff morale and levels of engagement.

Your Business is Food will be offered free of charge to any interested NSW business, delivered through a local council or other waste expert. Advisors take the business through the steps, provide them a with customised action plan and whatever resources they might need.

The trials of the program showed foodservice businesses reduced food waste by 5 per cent just by thinking about it and by an average of 21 per cent if taken through it by an advisor.

Foodservice is partnering with LFHW Your Business is Food to help readers reduce food waste.

Over the next 18 months we’ll be following the program progress, reporting on tips and advice, running a chef recognition program to acknowledge the great things already happening in professional kitchens across Australia and showcasing the best efforts of the best businesses in making the most of food.

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DINING

VALHALLA RISING

THE SPEAKEASY GROUP IS KNOWN IN SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE FOR BARS WITH BIG PERSONALITIES. BUT MJØLNER, THEIR FIRST DIP INTO THE RESTAURANT GAME, UPS THE ANTE. DOES THE RISK PAY OFF? YASMIN NEWMAN INVESTIGATES.

DINING

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALANA DIMOU

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Head chef Tom Gripton carving one of his ‘bird’ dishes on the changing Mjølner menu.

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here’s no foot traffic and nowhere to park, and we’re seemingly easy to find, but we’re not,” says Speakeasy Group co-owner Sven Almenning. He tells it as it is – their beautiful timber-door entrance is tucked between a bunch of unassuming buildings on a bare strip of Redfern’s Cleveland Street in Sydney. “It’s a terrible location. We probably should have gone past it to be honest.” Then, he beams, “But this space…”

The former 120-year-old leaky basement is now home to Mjølner, a subterranean and cavernous Viking-inspired restaurant and bar that’s full of character and atmosphere, and if you could also imagine it, refinement.

Almenning details The Block-like reveals of the renovation, including heritage brick arches hidden behind mottled green paint. The group toyed with a few ideas for it, including another Boilermaker House, their pumping 1,000 whisky-large bar in Melbourne. But a space like this called for something more intimate, he says, as well as its own identity.

Almenning grew up in Norway on a staple storytelling diet of Valhalla and gods including Loki and Odin (who, incidentally, his two boys are named after), and concedes he thought his team would shoot him down when he brought them the idea. Instead, they were ecstatic. “We don’t do any market research,” he says of their process.

“Basically, we open venues that we think are awesome, with the idea that if we think they are, we’re not alone.”

Mjølner marks the lauded Sydney and Melbourne hospitality group’s fifth venue and theatrical is one word to describe them all.

The Roosevelt, for example, transports guests to America circa 1940. Still, Vikings? Were there concerns about limitations of the theme, as well as longevity?

Almenning makes an important distinction between theme and inspiration. “It’s not like a Viking fight club where waiters are pouring meat on their chest and diners are dancing on tables.” Aka a Norse version of Oktoberfest or Outback Restaurant. “Our idea was more what a Viking meal, or place of feasting, would look like today.” He gives the example of one hit Mjølner dish, bone marrow with meat powder and pickled herbs. “I don’t know if they actually ate bone marrow, but do I think they did – fuck yeah. It feels like a Viking dish.”

Overall – at least for their first three months of trading – the identity has been a double-edged sword. Press seized on the unique concept and offered up lots of early love, but some folks came in expecting big burly men with beards, tankards of beer and slabs of meat, and were disappointed to find what the restaurateur describes as a smart-casual fine diner. “We have that, but in a very refined way.”

You’ll also find swords, but thousand-year-old originals sourced from the homeland, and protected in cabinets as works of art. There’s

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DINING

“We don’t do any market research. Basically we open venues that we think are awesome, with the idea that if we think they are, we’re not alone.”

Above: The Mjølner dining room.

Middle: A leather pouch filled with besoke knives for diners to choose from.

Bottom: Roast duck with beetroot, amaranth and orange.

DINING

a replica of Thor’s famed hammer, too – Mjølner, the restaurant’s namesake – crafted by one of Australia’s top metalsmiths into a whisky decanter. You could think of it as Viking luxe.

As for timeliness, Almenning has no reservations. “It might be stupid, but that’s not something I worry about.” In his experience, building venues centred on quality and experience is the secret to a long, prosperous life. “If you trade on being trendy, what’s cool by definition goes lukewarm and design dates. So we don’t aim to be any of those things.”

If anything, they seem to buck trends. Eau De Vie set out to disprove then-common thinking that consumers only drink spirits after a hit of beer and wine. Now, it’s one of Sydney and Melbourne’s most sought-after bars. While Mjølner has been a lot busier than even they expected, he doesn’t expect peak trading for at least two years if their existing venues are anything to go off. “We’re not in the CBD and we invest what others spend on advertising and PR into building our staff and products.” It’s oft forgotten in the current era of social media and instant gratification that it takes time to build anything, and more so something different and lasting.

Almeninng also has his sights set on a chef ’s hat for Mjølner.

Toques don’t alwfays equal more business or better margins, so why the push? “I want people that work here to be proud of what they do, and for that to be acknowledged,” he explains. “A hat, or bar award, is that acknowledgement.” The group, and Almenning himself, are no stranger to accolades – Eau De Vie is on the World’s

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50 Best Bars list and he’s among Bartender Magazine's 10 most influential bartenders in Australia. To his mind, vision, even “lofty goals”, are the best means to procure top work from staff. “You can teach anyone to make good food and drinks, and have good service.

The problem is people often don’t aim high enough.”

Hiring up is another tool in the group’s management kit. “We work off the idea that these guys are better at the job that they are doing than we are and therefore we trust them to do it.” Almenning now works primarily as creative director, while Greg Sanderson, also co-owner, is operations manager. There are a few other group roles, including head of whisky, otherwise each venue has its own manager and is run independently and without daily interference.

“This model allows our staff to be empowered and for us to focus on the bigger picture.”

Mjølner chef Tom Gripton, for example, has pretty much free reign with the menu. “The only stipulation was one ‘bird’, ‘beast’ and ‘fish’ on the menu everyday, but what they are is up to him.”

Gripton, formerly at Monopole, makes the most of the viking call to arms with meaty dishes like ‘trencher’, a mammoth bar-only dish comprising of a cob loaf carved out and loaded up with pulled meat from the rotisserie, as well as a short rib that’s reappeared on the menu in various guises. But he also lightens the load with regional classics, like gravalax, aromats including juniper berries, and a vegetarian option that’s been overwhelming popular for a

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DINING

“Now I have this beautiful place. We’re not talking anything crazy, but as long as we stay true to hiring the best and delivering a quality product, I think we can do a great number of venues.”

Above: Roasted bone marrow with meat powder and watercress.

Below: Sven Almenning (left) with his Speakeasy Group partner, Greg Sanderson.

restaurant dubbed as a carvery, complete with cured meat hanging in windows. Global interest in Scandinavian fare didn’t inform Almenning’s early inspiration, but it has been a good by-product.

Likewise, signature drinks embody Northern flavours and mythological proportions. Take glögg , mulled wine that’s “Scandi as hell”. At Mjølner, it is prepared tableside with two mugs, liquor poured from one to the other, with a stream of fire in between.

“Our drinks, within our group in general, are quite theatrical,” says Almenning, who believes the value of the extra effort, and cost in labour, comes from the experience guests take away.

Mjølner may be the Speakeasy Group’s first full-blown foray into restaurants (The Roosevelt has been trading more as restaurant since the one-punch incidents in nearby King Cross), but they’ve taken learnings from what they know best – atmospheric bars, lavish drinks and an immersive experience – and applied them with aplomb. Almenning says Sydney’s licensing laws forced them into food. “A development in a building like this wouldn’t be granted a new bar licence. There’s not a rule against it, but there does seem to be a trend.” That said, he can no longer say he would have preferred fate’s other hand. “Now, I have this beautiful place.” And, by the sounds of it, there are a few more on the horizon. “We’re not talking anything crazy, but as long as we stay true to hiring the best and delivering a quality product, I think we can do a great number of venues.” As for inspiration, it’s anyone’s guess.

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TRADE TALK

THE BEST THING SLICED BREAD WHAT TAKES A STALE SANDO AND TRANSFORMS IT INTO A SCRUMPTIOUS SANGER? ANITA CONNORS CONSIDERS THE PERFECT SANDWICH.

COLUMN TRADE TALK

TRADE TA L K

S

arnie, butty, or sammich, call it what you want, but the humble sandwich always has a place on any good lunch menu.

Fast, affordable and with endless possibilities, sandwiches provide establishments the opportunity to craft tasty, creative offerings that draw punters back time and time again.

SANDWICH MASTERS Björn Nöldner is no stranger to a good sandwich. As the general manager of Melbourne’s Gontran Cherrier, there are plenty on the menu. He describes the Collingwood bakery as a “true boulangerie but with a modern twist”.

“Great bread, great cold cuts and great cheese can be all it takes to create something wonderful. There is no need to overcomplicate a sandwich, keep it to limited but quality produce and you’ll have a real winner.”

The eggplant parmigiana sandwich at Devon Barangaroo.

Sandwiches include the Parisienne baguette with ham, apple chutney and wholegrain mustard, a squid ink bun with marinated yellowfin tuna, avocado and spring onions, and a sourdough number with roast beef, arugula, melted onions, horseradish and garlic mayonnaise.

For Nöldner, the perfect sandwich is all about simplicity.

He says, “Great bread, great cold cuts and great cheese can be all it takes to create something wonderful. There is no need to overcomplicate a sandwich, keep it to limited but quality produce and you’ll have a real winner.”

In comparison, Zachary Tan, executive chef of Sydney’s Devon Barangaroo, believes “fresh produce and kickass sauces” are what makes the perfect sandwich.

His menu features “a great Korean fried chicken sandwich with kimchi mayonnaise and ssamjang, and a bacon katsu sando that features thick cut bacon, fried egg, lettuce, tomato and Japanese BBQ sauce.”

FASHION FORWARD Sandwiches are truly part of Australia’s lunch culture and daily life, never falling out of fashion with customers.

For Fonterra’s Alastair McClausland this is due to a number of things. He says, “Firstly, they’re incredibly easy to eat. No need for cutlery, plates or mess and something you can eat on the go, in a meeting or sitting down outside.

“Secondly, with so many possible flavour options you can never get bored with a sandwich, the combinations are limitless.”

FORK OVER THE DOUGH To create the perfect sandwich, having the right building blocks is key. This begins with the bread.

Nöldner says, “The highest quality of bread forms the foundation of the perfect sandwich, whether that be a baguette, rye, multigrain, or sourdough, we will always be true to the quality of bread.”

Tan agrees. Personally he prefers to use lighter, less dense styles of bread. He says, “The worst thing is biting into a sandwich with the feeling that you’re about to chip a tooth.”

21

Mal Gill, Tip Top Foodservice innovation chef, knows all too well the importance of having the right bread.

“For any chef looking to save labour costs and wastage, the Speedibake range of rustic and classic breads are perfect – they can be thawed or flash baked as needed so you don’t waste any product.”

It is also important to use a quality spread. McClausland says, “Butter is typically your base-filling ingredient when preparing a sandwich. It is a natural flavour enhancer, it doesn’t introduce strong flavours as is the case with some oils and margarines, and its unmistakable texture and mouthfeel can’t be replicated by any substitute product.”

FAVOURITE FIRST Everyone has their go-to sandwich, whether it be a simple slather of Vegemite or a overflowing Franken-monster.

For Nöldner it’s all about the La Parisienne at Gontran Cherrier. “It’s simplicity at its best. Best baguette in town, ham, Comté cheese, apply chutney and whole grain mustard. Yum.” Similarly, Gill is keen on a “simple smoked ham sandwich with cheddar, fresh basil, mayo and tomato relish. A good pickle is always nice too.”

Tan’s prefers something a little more unconventional. “It’s got to be the Japanese omelette sandwich at Devon Barangaroo,” he says, “scrambled egg, Japanese mayo, and furikake. It’s fluffy, tasty and satisfying.”

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TRADE TALK

“Foodservice operators are now looking at sandwiches in the way that we have recently been looking at burgers, pizzas and sushi – that is, how can we enhance the overall presentation, how can we improve the flavour profile, and deliver a more upmarket eating experience?”

Above: Gontran Cherrier’s Montmartrois sourdough with roast beef, arugula, melted onions, horseradish and garlic mayonnaise.

Middle: ‘Mon ami Jo’ at Gontran Cherrier’ with Jonathan’s Toulouse sausages, onions and Dijon mustard.

Below: The Japanese omelette sandwich at Devon Barangaroo with scrambled egg, Japanese mayo, and furikake.

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DRIVING BUSINESS To grab the attention of diners and to turn their visit into repeat custom, it is crucial to offer them a variety of options, not just the usual suspects.

At Gontran Cherrier, the team reviews the menu on a weekly basis. Crowd-pleasers remain while other offerings are rotated or updated to ensure customers are given fresh and exciting options.

According to Nöldner their most left-of-centre sandwich on the menu, currently, is their ‘mon ami Jo’. He says, “It features our neighbouring butcher Jonathan’s famous Toulouse sausage with braised fennel and onions with a smearing of Dijon mustard on a fresh crusty baguette. We think it’s important to support other local businesses and the quality of Jonathan’s sausages was something we couldn’t look past.”

Devon Barangaroo has a number of creative options on the menu with Tan updating their sandwiches according to the season: “customers have their favourites and we’d be in trouble if we got rid of them.”

For Tan, the truffle jaffle is currently their most unique sandwich. He says, “We created this for the three-month Australian truffle season because jaffles are the ultimate comfort sandwich for winter.

We fill it with provolone cheese, truffle-infused Mornay and duxelles, which is a tasty mushroom paste.”

TRENDING Sandwiches are currently undergoing a renaissance of sorts with venues around the country breaking with

tradition, upping the creativity and sourcing star ingredients.

McClausland says, “Foodservice operators are now looking at sandwiches in the way that we have recently been looking at burgers, pizzas and sushi – that is, how can we enhance the overall presentation, how can we improve the flavour profile, and deliver a more upmarket eating experience?”

To this, Nöldner believes venues are “starting to move back to the simple but great sandwich”. He says, “Australians are stepping away from the idea that just because a sandwich looks funky that it is going to taste good and needs to be on spongy white bread.

He continues, “I am noticing more embracing of the simple ingredients and overdoing what is already beautiful produce. And again true bread is key.”

Tan has also noticed that the “fried chicken sandwich has become a big thing in Sydney. As have ‘healthy-style’ sandwiches with gluten-free options.”

And in response to the increase in requests for vegetarian fare, he now offers an eggplant parmigiana sandwich at Devon Barangaroo. Tan notes, however, that while “it isn’t as popular as our other sandwiches, it’s a great vegetarian option building on classic Italian flavours.”

The big flavours that Gill has noticed across the country lie with southern-style cooking.

He says, “The American trend has continued to evolve and we are now seeing a lot of authentic smokehouses. Barbecuing has

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24

TRADE TALK

become an all-night affair with people realising the beauty of slow smoking methods.”

This in turn has lent itself to many establishments playing with tradition and offering “fried chicken with an international twist like Korean”.

A selection of sandwiches at Devon Barangaroo.

UNDERUSED Every chef has an ingredient that they believe it underutilised.

For Tan it’s fermented vegetables.

He says, “They really bring a depth of flavour. We currently use two fermented items on our sandwich menu – kimchi and sauerkraut.”

Mimmo Lubrano, CEO of Sandhurst Fine Foods, agrees.

He say, “Fermented, pickled and cured products such as gherkins and sauerkraut are perfect for sandwiches. They are are good choice for those with a preference for vegetarian options, as well as provide low cost solutions for foodservice operators.”

Gill would like to see a broader range of fish being offered in our sandwiches. “For me as a Brisbane boy,” he says, “I am still amazed we don’t have Moreton Bay bug rolls on any menus that I’ve seen.”

For Nöldner, liver paté is underutilised on sandwich menus around the country. He says, “It’s an exciting ingredient that pairs well with sweet as well as savouries. It is also complimented by so many types of bread. I would love to see more of it served in Australia.”

COST EFFECTIVE Lunch service typically means getting sandwiches out as quickly as possible.

McClausland advises operators to have “quality products that are either ready to serve or which require only minimal time for preparation. That will save you labour time, which helps keep staffing costs down.”

Similarly, Gill considers the enemy of every operator or chef is wastage of “money in the bin”. He says, “This can be wasted food, inefficient time management or incorrect menu costing. With the right products on hand, a well-trained team and a well-thought-out and executed menu, we can be more efficient and in turn offer a more consistent product on the plate.”

Another way in which to keep costs down is to keep the menu small. This helps to ensure that the kitchen isn’t overwhelmed by customer orders, as well as allows operators to keep an eye on which items aren’t selling. The more ingredients on the menu, the higher the food costs.

As Nöldner says, “Know your market. This dictates your mise en place. Ensure you don’t overproduce in order to keep freshness and avoid wastage.”

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WHERE I EAT WHERE I

F O O D S E RV I C E

AUS

ON THE LAUNCH OF HER NEW BRICKS AND MORTAR VENUE, GLACÉ, DESSERT QUEEN CHRISTY TANIA REVEALS WHERE IN MELBOURNE IS A TREAT TO EAT.

BREAKFAST

FRIENDS

I am always up for yum cha for breakfast. I associate it with togetherness and time-to-pause with loved ones. I particularly love going to Secret Kitchen.

Usually my go-to would be either Pastuso or Tipo 00. They are owned by my amazing talented friends, cooking humble food with amazing ingredients.

WINDSOR

DESSERT BAR

Windsor Ale House is a superb bar with super cosy atmosphere and amazing food list. Saigon Sally also always hits the right spot.

That has to be ours, Glacé. We always change our menu and always add new, creative flavours and looks. So you could never get bored of coming back.

BIRTHDAY

UNIQUELY MELBOURNE

In my kitchen. Everyone is relaxed, food is always warm and drink is always good. Don’t forget cakes though. I had six of them on my last birthday!

The alleys of Melbourne. They are amazing because you always find some hidden treasures like Eau De Vie, Ôter, and Shortstop Coffee & Donuts.

WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

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THE WINNERS OF THE WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017 2 0 1 7

WOMEN IN

F O O D SERVI C E A W A R D S W I F A

F

oodservice magazine is proud to present the inaugural Women in Foodservice Awards (WIFA).

The awards were created with the aim to celebrate, nurture and recognise the women making Australia's culinary landscape more diverse and dynamic. WIFA pays tribute to the many women reimagining the business of food, and who through their leadership, dedication and innovation are both growing their businesses and transforming the industry at large.

Over 400 individuals from around the country entered

WIFA, and it has been a large undertaking by our judging panel made up of columnist Jill Dupleix, chef Christine Manfield and foodservice's Anita Connors to decide on our winners.

A big thank you to our partners Fine Food Australia, Unilever Food Solutions, Australian Pork, Stoddart, Electrolux, NSW Environmental Protection Authority, OpenTable, Frontline Hospitality and Dinko Tuna Farmers for their support.

And the results are in, the winners of the first Women in Foodservice Awards are...

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UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS LEADING WOMAN IN FOODSERVICE AWARD

•

OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARD

•

CHEF OF THE YEAR AWARD

•

RESTAURANT MANAGER OF THE YEAR AWARD

•

RISING STAR AWARD

Women in Foodservice Awards C E L E B R AT I N G W O M E N I N F O O D S E R V I C E At Unilever, we strive for gender balance and actively encourage and promote women in the workforce. We recognise that women are also great change agents within the foodservice environment. Thus as a proud GOLD sponsor of Women In Foodservice Awards, Unilever Food Solutions congratulates the winner.

UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS 2017 WINNER LEADING WOMAN IN FOODSERVICE AWARD DANIELLE GJESTLAND Wasabi Restaurant, Noosa Danielle was selected from a shortlist of 20 women across Australia. The judges: Jill Dupleix, Christine Manfield and I, felt that she had demonstrated real dynamic leadership in the way she was growing her business and nurturing the team, while at the same time supporting local producers and the industry at large. Since launching Wasabi Restaurant and Bar in Noosa 14 years ago, when she was in her mid-20’s, she has had a transformative effect on the wine and dine scene both in Queensland and across the country.

Anita Connors Editor, foodservice magazine

IF YOU ARE A CHEF OR WORKING IN HOSPITALITY AND MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN A SALES OR MARKETING CAREER AT UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS, VISIT OUR CAREERS PAGE ON OUR WEBSITE TO REGISTER YOUR INTEREST WWW.UNILEVERFOODSOLUTIONS.COM.AU/CAREERS

I N G R E D I E N T S • R E C I P E S • I N S P I R AT I O N

s f e h c r o f , s f e h c y b Created

CA F É S

PUBS & CLUBS

AG E D CA R E

Online business & inspiration resource for cafés

Culinary trends, recipes & master tips for pubs & clubs

Recipes, expert articles, event inspiration & video tutorials for aged care

S I G N U P FO R O U R I N S P I R AT I O N N E W S L E T T E R AT U F S . CO M

®

FO R O U R F U L L P R O D U CT R A N G E & R E C I P E I N S P I R AT I O N V I S I T U FS . C OM

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WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS LEADING WOMAN IN FOODSERVICE AWARD

Opening Wasabi meant I had the opportunity to forge a career in foodservice that would allow me to show my passion for service coupled with good management skills and a way to further explore my interest in Japanese culture and cuisine. I had always sought to exceed people’s expectations but being a restaurateur allows you to see this out from beginning to end.

I can plan for a service, welcome the guest, enjoy their company while they enjoy their meal, and have them leave happy all in a day’s work. 14 years later, a career in foodservice continues to be invigorating and exciting.

2 0 1 7

WOMEN

DANIELLE GJESTLAND RESTAURATEUR, WASABI RESTAURANT & BAR (QLD)

IN

F O O D SERVIC E A W A R D S W I F A

FINALISTS Lyn Bentley, Sticky Fingers Australian (WA) Sharon Flynn, The Fermentary (VIC) Naomi Ingleton, King Valley Dairy (VIC)

How did you come to open Wasabi Restaurant & Bar? After living for a period of time in London, I once again found myself, in my early 20s, at home in Sunshine Beach searching for a role that would tick all the boxes.

Looking through fresh eyes at the town that was so fundamentally familiar, I saw an opportunity. We had amazing produce, brilliant locally available seafood, and a population made mostly of people who had chosen Noosa as their new sea change home.

It seemed obvious that a good Japanese restaurant was missing from the local dining scene.

How do you define your business philosophy?

My philosophy stems from the thought that in some small way we are fortunate to play a supporting role in people’s happy moments in life. When people go out for a special occasion the restaurant becomes part of their memories. We become part of their lives in a way. So, if we act daily on this theory, that we have the power to influence someone’s day for the better, then only good can come of it.

What were some of the surprises and challenges that you didn't expect when you launched your business?

I was very young and inexperienced so there were many surprises and everything was a challenge. I didn’t know how to open a restaurant but I did. I didn’t know how to make it critically successful but I did. I didn’t know how to run a farm or grow vegetables but I can now. I didn’t

know how to design or construct a cooking school but I did.

What have you learned about making a business profitable and feasible?

Wasabi has grown very slowly and organically over the last 14 years. I have tended to believe that if I don’t have the money to pay for it then I can’t have it. I also always ask – is this purchase going to help my business make money or do I just want it?

In our industry, it can all slip through your hands very quickly.

Despite being busy and critically acclaimed, you can still fail. It is wise not to forget that when you are basking in the glow of your own success.

Who were your mentors?

Firstly, my mother who taught me the power of hard work. I believe sheer perseverance and not talent has got me to where I am today.

Secondly, I have received a lot of great financial advice from my husband, Ptor. In the beginning, when I opened first Wasabi his advice probably saved my skin. You can be the most creative person in the world but if you’re running your own small business and you don’t have your house in order and the numbers don’t add up, then it’s going to end badly.

And finally, my team. I started the restaurant when I was very young and over the years I have been fortunate to work with many wonderful people whose collective advice and support helped me enormously. I would not be here today without them.

WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

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OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARD SPONSORED BY AUSTRALIAN PORK

NIKKI FRIEDLI MAÎTRE D’, AFRICOLA (SA) What drew you to a career in foodservice?

From a young age I was sucked into the romance of food and wine, and especially to the romance of dining. There’s something beautiful about being able to change the way someone can view the world in a space of two hours. Even when I was a child I was vocal about issues I was passionate about. Being a maître d’ actually provides you with a deceptively huge platform for social change. An unorthodox one perhaps, but a platform nonetheless. We, in this industry, have a huge responsibility to influence how and why people eat for the better. That’s an important thing to be a part of, especially in the current social and political climate. The way we eat now will have a huge impact in the future.

How do you translate Africola's philosophy to the dining room?

Africola’s philosophy is basically keep it local and do it with love.

Perhaps a bit of a cliché now, but it’s important to us. We work so closely with the people who produce everything from our wine to our meat and even then we don’t feel it’s close enough.

Translating that for our dining room is doing away with the tangles of old silver service and experimenting with a new format. The staff might not be individually serving you bread rolls and there might be Queens of the Stone Age turned up to

11, but they can answer every question you have and will still bend over backwards to have a great night. The challenge is in creating a unique experience for each by table by gauging them as you get to know them. A new set of rules for a new era.

What's been the biggest challenge of your career?

Remembering that what I do is a valid career and not something you do while you’re waiting for your life to start. If I had a penny for every time I was asked what I’m studying or hear the term “just a waiter” I could probably buy every restaurant in Australia.

What we do is valid. We are important. We have the capacity to change the way people eat and think; two of the biggest factors that will impact the generations to come in the face of massive change. I’m so proud to be “just a waiter”, but it’s often exhausting reminding people that it’s much more than that.

What is your go-to wine or spirit?

My go-to spirit is gin and my goto wine is gamay, but if it’s been a tough day my go-to is one in each hand.

What is your take on culinary trends in general?

They’re more powerful than we give them merit, especially in a time of social media and instant access to any information we’d like. Trends are something we need to learn to adopt if they’re worthy or buck if they’re detrimental.

Australia is this amazing bastion of freedom where there are no set

culinary rules, so why prescribe to a set? I’m hoping that trends become more pragmatic and less whimsical.

Over your career, how have you seen the tastes of Australian diners change or evolve?

Australian diners have become far more knowledgeable about food and wine. Australia has this wonderful microclimate of amazing restaurants that are accessible to all budgets. It’s a unique thing. People are exposed more regularly now than ever before to better produce, better cooking, left-of-centre concepts, and to a higher standard of service across the board. People aren’t just chasing a steak and a big shiraz anymore. Their curiosity has been piqued and they want to explore new ideas. It’s an exciting time to be doing our jobs.

2 0 1 7

WOMEN IN

F O O D S E RVIC E A W A R D S W I F A

FINALISTS Kellie Lopez, Campbelltown Catholic Club (NSW) Sophie Otton, Song Kitchen (NSW) Alice Perini, Ormeggio at The Spit (NSW)

Meet over a decade of talented female PorkStars, Inspiring us with culinary creativity, spirit and their passion for Pork.

Be a PorkStar and get some pork on your menu.

TOP ROW: LEFT TO RIGHT

• Alex Herbert • Jacqui Challinor • Belinda Franks • Melissa Palinkas • Chui Lee Luk • Bethany Finn • Lauren Murdoch

BOTTOM ROW: LEFT TO RIGHT

• Saskia Beer • Analiese Gregory • Nicky Riemer • Christine Manfield • Clair Portelli • Carla Jones • Dominique Rizzo

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WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

CHEF OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY STODDART AND ELECTROLUX

together. Witnessing how the industry has changed since I was starting out has been incredible but it is always good to remember its roots. I enjoy cooking with amazing local and native ingredients taking inspiration from these rich ancient cultures and my current iconic surrounds.

2 0 1 7

WOMEN

VANESSA GRACE EXECUTIVE CHEF, VOYAGES AYERS ROCK RESORT (NT)

IN

F O O D SERVIC E A W A R D S W I F A

FINALISTS Jo Barrett, Oakridge (VIC) Alanna Sapwell, Saint Peter (NSW) Jenna Townsend, Maryborough Highland Society (NSW)

Why did you decide to become a chef?

Cooking has been a passion of mine since I was a child. I think my biggest influences to pursue my passion were my grandmother and mother, who were amazing cooks that taught me all the basic principles of cooking. Since then I jump on every opportunity to further my skill set and learn new techniques, it is definitely a trade where you never run out of things to learn and new ways to experiment with food.

What is your philosophy to food?

I believe food is incredibly important as it brings us

What are some of your signature dishes?

Tali Wiru is the signature dining experience at Ayers Rock Resort.

I have had the pleasure of creating the menu for this experience for the past three seasons now and each year I push myself to the limit, experimenting with new ingredients and produce. I strive to make the menu as memorable as the surrounds (no easy feat).

This year’s menu features pressed wallaby with fermented quandog, hung yoghurt, pomegranate and puffed ancient grains, and wagyu beef fillet with salt baked celeriac, paperbark-smoked onion soubise, king brown mushroom and smoked bacon jus.

What ingredient is always in the cupboard and why?

Dried bush tomato. This native ingredient has such a unique flavour which lends itself to many different applications.

What impact have you had on the running of your venue's kitchen and business?

I believe I bring a culture of learning, development and recognition to the team. I am passionate about maintaining high standards across all food

outlets, and this is filtered down through my team. There is a very high expectation for excellence when you work in one of Australia’s most iconic destinations.

What one piece of advice from your training days do you keep with you?

Not everyone you work with will be as passionate as you. You are your own competition.

In your opinion, what is the biggest problem facing the industry today?

Lack of further training and development on the job. I find a lot of entry level chefs come in with little more experience than when they finished their apprenticeship, are thrown into a role which uses basic technique and are not given as much opportunity to grown and learn more on the job – which means moving up and finding higher trained chefs can be extremely challenging.

What are some of your key achievements at Ayers Rock Resort?

I manage the day-to-day operations and management of eight indoor food and beverage outlets, four outdoor dining restaurants plus all conference and events catering, which during peak times results in catering for over 4,000 people daily. In turn, this is a multimillion dollar operation.

I have also been instrumental in the launch of Bush Tucker Journeys and Uluru Feastival at Ayers Rock Resort, the most comprehensive program of native flavour discovery available in Australia today.

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WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

RESTAURANT MANAGER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY NSW ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AUTHORITY

2 0 1 7

WOMEN

KYLIE JAVIER ASHTON GENERAL MANAGER MOMOFUKU SEIŌBO (NSW)

IN

F O O D SERVIC E A W A R D S W I F A

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAN RICHARDSON

FINALISTS Carole Dunn, Garfish (NSW) Meira Harel, The Town Mouse (VIC) Wimmy Winkler, Saint Peter (NSW)

What drew you to a career in foodservice?

I really love the dynamic environment that a restaurant offers. Working with creative people like chefs and being able to facilitate a special experience for guests is a great privilege. But the foodservice industry offers so much more than that. Elements like business management, leadership, and problem solving continue to challenge and develop me as I have progressed through my career.

What does success mean to you?

Success to me is not giving up.

Being able to celebrate your

achievements, but understanding that reaching a goal brings with it a whole new set of challenges.

What are your responsibilities at Momofuku Seiōbo?

Being the general manager I wear a lot of different ‘hats’. I am responsible first and foremost for creating a truly memorable experience for our guests. I am also responsible for managing our business by ensuring that our budgets and targets are achieved.

We are constantly setting a higher standard for ourselves and it is important to hold both the team and myself accountable to make sure that we are reaching our potential. And very importantly, it is my responsibility to empower my team to grow, develop and be the future leaders in our industry.

How do you help realise the Momofuku Seiōbo philosophy?

It has been important that I have a good working relationship with our executive chef Paul Carmichael. He and I work very closely to ensure that we have a clear vision for our whole team and that we support them to be able to deliver that vision. Ensuring that we have like-minded people on our team who are committed and invested in our vision, whilst pushing them to succeed with their own personal goals.

What is the first question you ask young staff who want to work with you?

I always like to hear a story about a time they received great service and why they found it so special. Not only do I want to understand how

they perceive great service, I want them to tell me a story. As front of house staff, we are the storytellers – we bring the kitchen’s vision to life and it’s important that we’re able to tell a story.

How do you create and deliver great hospitality?

I believe that hospitality is all about making honest and genuine connections. Really listening and caring for our guests is at the centre of real hospitality.

Also it’s essential to understand where our food comes from. Whether a dish was inspired by something Paul’s mum used to cook for him, or understanding the provenance of the fish we are serving, having a connection to what we are serving is our greatest tool.

What is the biggest problem facing the industry today?

I think having greater balance in our work and lives is an important factor in making a career in hospitality sustainable and attractive to young people to work in our industry.

Really finding a solution that works both financially for our businesses and making that a reality is still something our industry is struggling with.

What is your best advice for aspiring restaurant managers?

Love what you do. Hospitality is one of the most fun, exciting and challenging industries but it is also one of the most rewarding.

Be ready and open to take feedback and don’t be afraid of your weaknesses.

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WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS 2017

RISING STAR AWARD SPONSORED BY DINKO TUNA FARMERS

that my grandma and mum use to cook for me as a child. I deeply appreciate the foundations they set for me at such a young age.

What does success mean to you?

Success to me is looking forward to going to work every day, and just absolutely loving what I do.

It is also seeing the smile on a customer’s face, as they give a slight nod when they have eaten that first bite of my dessert.

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WOMEN

KAY-LENE TAN HEAD PASTRY CHEF TONKA AND CODA (VIC)

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F O O D SERVIC E A W A R D S W I F A

Why did you decide to become a chef?

I love food. After spending three years pursuing a Diploma in Mass Communications, and another four years in documentary production, I hadn’t found the same spark as I do when I am cooking, baking, and creating. I feel an intrinsic sense of delight when I am in the kitchen.

What is your philosophy to food?

I believe that the only way to know where you are going is to appreciate where you come from.

The recipes and ingredients I grew up with have had a very important part to play in my career. I love mastering the recipes

Who has been the biggest influence on you as a chef?

My mentor, Andres Lara – he took the classic French pastry skills I learnt from working for chef Joël Robuchon and pushed them to the next level. He taught me a more modern approach to desserts, and how to be bold with my flavour choices and pairings. He also encouraged me to find my own voice, and to never be afraid of failure because that is how we learn some of our greatest lessons.

What is your signature dish?

The carrot cake dish I created for Tonka: carrot halwa, cream cheese ice cream, whipped mascarpone, apricot coulis and cinnamon walnut crumble.

Is there an ingredient you use a lot that would surprise people?

Salt. I love incorporating a salty element in all my desserts. I feel that it gives my desserts depth of flavour, and also makes it more balanced.

What one piece of advice from your training days do you keep with you?

Keep it clean. Cleanliness, and

organisation in a kitchen is so important. It helps you work faster, and be more efficient, especially during busy Friday and Saturday night dinner services.

What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master?

I would say the ability to edit yourself. Young chefs always feel the need to overcompensate or overcomplicate dishes when they first start creating a menu. It’s about knowing when to stop, to not over-garnish, to stop adding more flavour profiles to a dish.

It is an irony that simplicity is actually very difficult to master.

What impact have you had on the running of your venue's kitchen and business?

Chef Adam D’Sylva, and restaurateurs Kate and Mykal Bartholomew have given me countless opportunities to grow as their head pastry chef at Tonka. They have allowed me to create my own dessert menu, and gave me the freedom to explore my creativity. It has also been exciting to learn how to run the pass, and it is a skill that I have honed over the last two years. It has helped me to organise the kitchen, and manage staff and wage costs.

Recently, they have also asked me to take over the dessert menu at Coda, our sister restaurant.

It has been exciting to work moving from creating Indianinspired desserts to modern Vietnamese-inspired desserts. It is a challenge I have taken head on, and I look forward to helping both our restaurants grow.

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The company's line of business also includes operating fisheries that produce Spencer Gulf king prawns and Australian sardines.

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HUCK’S RANT

HUCK’S RANT

APPETITE FOR DECONSTRUCTION ANTHONY HUCKSTEP IS RAGING, RAGING AGAINST ALL THINGS DISMANTLED, UNRAVELLED AND DISSECTED ON THE PLATE.

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understand a need to stand out; to make an impact.

Hell, I’m in my 40s and wear Entombed t-shirts and a denim vest with patches on it. There’s nothing ‘shrinking violet’ about that. Though, there’s probably nothing unique or interesting about it either.

Sure, I may look like Angus Young after he’s spent way too long at the ‘all you can eat’ buffet, but when it comes

Nailing a classic is far more impressive than deconstructing one for the sake of it. If I had a meat pie for every deconstructed lemon tart I’ve encountered I’d be rounder than a full moon. Oh. Damn.

Anthony Huckstep is the national restaurant critic for delicious. and a food writer for The Australian, GQ Australia and QANTAS.

to food, a desire to make a statement on the menu and plate can have a catastrophic outcome.

I mean when did we start eating ‘textures of carrot’ for God’s sake? How many are there? Crunchy (raw), soft (cooked) and cakey?

And in what universe does ‘beef cloud’ sound delicious?

I’ve been near a cow when one appeared and I can assure you I lost my appetite.

While in the throes of another of my ‘why do we deconstruct dishes’ fits, chef Michael Ryan from Provenance in Victoria posted something quite beautiful on Twitter.

“Remember when desserts were actual things, as opposed to a collection of textures and flavours.”

Indeed.

Deconstructed dishes are about as alluring as a 20 course degustation – a form of culinary waterboarding. They’re rarely better than the original. I don’t mind if you want to make your own creation and that’s not to say they can’t work – I’ve enjoyed the odd Snickersinspired dessert. But generally separating the elements of a dish and putting them in little piles on a plate isn’t being clever, nor creative. In fact, in manipulating the structure, the substance and soul often goes too.

Nailing a classic is far more impressive than deconstructing one for the sake of it. If I had a meat pie for every deconstructed lemon tart I’ve encountered I’d be rounder than a full moon. Oh. Damn.

It’s often merely a piles of crumbs, a lemon sorbet or curd,

a wispy element and a quenelle of thickened cream. In trying to get a bit of each pile onto a spoon it ends up eating as if someone has already chewed it for you.

But take chefs Josh and Julie Niland at Saint Peter. A visit to the restaurant would not be complete without ordering the nation’s best lemon tart. It’s breathtakingly simple and a serious joy to eat.

The delicate pastry, the wobble of lemon curd and its light velvet texture. No gimmicks, no foams, no egos, no BS. Style, substance and incredible craft.

But there are some classics that demand deconstruction - carpetbag steak for one. It’s at the luxury end of a surf and turf mentality (an oxymoron) of Australiana 1950s, and is about as appealing as apricot chicken.

In fact, I’d like carpetbag steak so deconstructed that I’ll have the oysters first, served natural, then a rare steak to follow. Thanks chef.

Anyway, perhaps before deconstructing a classic, why don’t you see how well you can make the original first. Or better still, just make your own dish, rather than bring down the building blocks of great cookery.

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INSIDER

PHOTOGRAPHY: THERESA HARRISON

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(L-R) Bruce Pascoe, Matt Stone, Jo Barrett, Melissa Connors and Guy Grossi, this year's inductees into the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival's Legends Hall of Fame.

INSIDER

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WHY WE NEED MORE LEGENDS EVERY YEAR, THE MELBOURNE FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL ANNOUNCE FIVE NEW INDUCTEES INTO THEIR LONG-ESTABLISHED LEGENDS PROGRAM. AND EVERY YEAR, JILL DUPLEIX WISHES EVERY OTHER STATE WAS INSPIRED TO DO THE SAME, SO WE ENDED UP WITH A NATIONAL REGISTRAR OF TRULY LEGENDARY HOSPITALITY PROFESSIONALS.

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e all need legends in our lives; role models who motivate and inspire us.

Some business sectors are great at it – the sporting fraternity, for one. Basically, if you can kick a ball without falling over, you’re a legend.

But we’re not terribly good at acknowledging the people who built and continue to build our

We need more role models, heroes and mentors. Lifetime Achievement Awards and Halls of Fame are all very well, but they feel somehow... posthumous. How good would it be for every food festival from Noosa to Margaret River to have its own Legends awards, underwitten by state and territory governments, that would contribute to a national registrar?

Jill Dupleix is a food writer, editor, cookbook author, restaurant critic and co-Director of Australia's Top Restaurants.

hospitality industry; many of whom can retire or die with little more than a few ‘vales’ on Twitter.

Thank heavens the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival introduced its nowlegendary Legends program in 1993. Twenty-five years later, and the 2017 crop of inductees is reliably inspiring. Chef Guy Grossi has helped insert Italian DNA into every Melbourne

diner, and Syd Weddell changed the way we cook at home with his groundbreaking Essential Ingredient stores.

Fourth-generation Yeringberg wine-maker Sandra de Pury says wine-making is “the perfect combination of intellectual, physical and sensory engagement.” Melissa Connors connects tree-changing families and retired farmers in her small but brilliant Kyneton-based initiative, This Farm Needs A Farmer, and Indigenous novelist and educator Bruce Pascoe is on a mission to return native plants, seeds and grains – like the murnong or yam daisy – to the land and the people. Oakridge chef Matt Stone and pastry chef Jo Barrett won the Hostplus Trailblazer Award for daily reimagining what it is to be a chef in environmental terms.

But we need more role models, heroes and mentors. Lifetime Achievement Awards and Halls of Fame are all very well, but they feel somehow… posthumous.

How good would it be for every food festival from Noosa to

Margaret River to have its own Legends awards, underwritten by state and territory governments, that would contribute to a national registrar?

The Age and Sydney Morning Herald anoint annual Vittoria Coffee Legends in their Good Food Guides; and delicious. magazine does a magnificent job with its Produce Awards. In France, the celebrated Meilleur Ouvrier de France for outstanding practitioners of traditional crafts (including that of chef and pastry chef) is taken so seriously that anyone found wearing the coveted tricolour collar fraudulently can end up in jail. Recipients are expected not just to celebrate with a glass of Champagne on the night, but to honour and protect their craft, and guide and mentor the next generation.

In that sense, a Legend award is not just a way of saying thank you to our creative visionaries, stubborn farmers and gifted communicators past and present, it’s an investment in how well we eat and drink in the future as well.

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PRODUCE

SOUTHERN BLUEFIN TUNA – A GREAT AUSTRALIAN JOHN SUSMAN TAKES A DEEP DIVE INTO SUSTAINABLE SOUTHERN BLUEFIN TUNA.

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John Susman is the director of the seafood industry agency Fishtales. For more views, insights and understanding of the seafood industry visit thefishtale.com.au.

n the confusion that is the minefield of choosing seafood which is sustainable, ethical and seasonal, there is also the question of whether it is commercially suitable to the bean counters and most of all, where it is tasty.

Stop for a moment and consider the dilemma we face in seafood.

Pretty much every other food group has an industry body which is stewarding consistent messaging from paddock to plate.

Meat and Livestock Australia not only come up with ripping ads to help celebrate Australia Day but they assist everyone from cowhand to cook to be on the same page when it comes to a broad knowledge of the key aspects of the supply of red protein, particularly in regards to how to best use all of the animal.

Funny then, even though we have all become experts in the use of secondary cuts that the issue of sustainability is rarely ever discussed when it comes to red meat.

Indeed, the rampant celebration of waygu beef, despite its questionable sustainability credentials, speaks more to how bloody tasty it is than anything else.

Similarly, the blind enthusiasm for foraging, which in many instances is nothing more than unmanaged and reckless poaching of protected species, seems to pay little regard to the working practicalities of landcare or what flora sustainability best practice is about. And don’t get me started about Champagne, glass bottles of Italian mineral water and coffee.

So it is sometimes hypocritical that we try to be ethical about our seafood. We try to choose what’s sustainable according to some globally sourced opinion. Then someone new comes along and wags a finger, says that a species of fish is now a ‘‘no’’.

Aaah! I can hear all you chefs say, I’ll just put another wagyu steak on the menu instead.

But it is southern bluefin tuna season and we should be in full celebration of one the great treasures of the Southern Ocean.

What, I hear you all cry, that’s like proposing to throw another panda bear on the Barbie.

Well, actually it isn’t.

The science is in and the stocks of southern bluefin tuna are fast recovering from its once appallingly depleted state. Thanks to vigilant management and a real commitment from the fishery and government managers to rebuild and protect this precious resource, we can look to enjoying southern bluefin tuna.

Unlike many of the tuna fisheries in open oceans and many third world countries, the Australian bluefin tuna fisheries are tightly controlled under Commonwealth law. These controls, including strict licensing and quota management systems, have resulted in a fishery, which is focused on both the quality and sustainability of the catch, above the size of the harvest.

Much of the southern bluefin tuna are caught in the Great Southern Ocean between December and March, kept alive

PRODUCE

The science is in and the stocks of southern bluefin tuna are fast recovering from its once appallingly depleted state. Thanks to vigilant management and a real commitment from the fishery and government managers to rebuild and protect this precious resource, we can look to enjoying southern bluefin tuna.

Southern bluefin tuna.

and ‘ranched’ in farms near Port Lincoln in South Australia where they are fed daily a diet of premium baitfish until winter, when they are harvested, nearly double the size of when they were first caught.

It is winter also when the wild fish are migrating up the east coast of Australia, having completed a trip across the Southern Ocean, circumnavigated Tasmania to the west coast of New Zealand and come back across the Tasman Sea. It’s amazing to consider that not only does a southern bluefin tuna swim up to 15,000 kilometres a year, but it can accelerate at twice the rate of a Ferrari and has the capacity to swim long distances at these high speeds.

This constant physical action creates an enormous demand for energy and a need to eat large quantities of food.

The general diet of the tuna includes fishes, crustaceans and molluscs. This opportunistic feeding is one of the reasons that tuna make such incredibly delicious eating.

Although most of the southern bluefin tuna ranching and wild catch fisheries in Australia focus on sending fish to the prized sashimi

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markets in Japan and the US, we are seeing more fish being offered here in the domestic market.

Be prepared for a unique difference in southern bluefin tuna from other species, the meat is a dark rich burgundy colour, and the flesh is typically soft, due to the incredible fat content it carries, which of course makes it such an unctuous eating experience.

Don’t try and treat it like the more robust yellowfin or big eye species, and don’t expect it to sit idyll in a state of constant vibrant red bloom – it will oxidise quickly and become dark if left in the open air.

If you are going to store it, wrap it tightly in Japanese rice paper, then in muslin and finally in plastic wrap, before burying it deep in ice. It will happily ‘age’ for 5 to 7 days. Unwrap and let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes before using to allow it bloom back to its natural deep colour and allow the intramuscular fat to soften.

Like none other of the tuna species, the variance between the cuts of the southern bluefin are remarkably different. From the truly luxurious o-toro and chutoro of the belly fillet to the darker and slightly leaner akami of the shoulder fillet. The nuances of flavour and texture of southern bluefin muscles are as unique as the fish itself.

Don’t be fooled by the hype, southern bluefin tuna is sustainable, it is delicious and it is as grand a treat as truffles and celeriac – get amongst it and celebrate one of the true indigenous luxury seafoods we have.

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UNCORKED

GIN GENIE STUART GREGOR WAS “BUMPING ROUND THE EDGES OF THE BOOZE INDUSTRY” FOR MANY YEARS BEFORE HE DECIDED TO CREATE A UNIQUELY AUSTRALIAN GIN. THIS LEAD TO THE FOUNDING OF FOUR PILLARS GIN IN THE YARRA VALLEY.

What attracted you to a career in gin?

I’d been bumping round the edges of the booze industry for 20-odd years, giving plenty of people the benefit of my wisdom and occasionally having a crack at my own wine labels. But with the encouragement of a few others I thought maybe it was time to do something proper, serious, with real aspiration and commitment.

What was the inspiration behind founding Four Pillars Gin? Well it started with a love of gin – I always said it took a lot of gin to make our wine, which was a line I nicked off Cooper’s, but it was true. And then we asked ourselves the classic Aussie question of “Why not?” Why shouldn’t Australia make the best gin in the world? Of course then I actually needed someone to make it because you would never trust me with a giant, potentially explosive alcohol machine so that’s where Cameron Mackenzie, the Four Pillars distiller and co-founder, came in.

How did you create Four Pillars Gin’s signature gin?

Cam spent about 18 months in what he refers to as his Breaking Bad phase, distilling literally dozens of botanicals until he landed on what became our rare dry ‘signature’ gin. I literally turned up on the day before we made our first gin and attempted to take the credit. Anyone who knows anything knows the truth.

What were some of the challenges in your first year of operation?

Where to start? No literally, where to start? Thank goodness for the generosity and friendship of Rob Dolan who lent us a corner of his winery in Warrandyte and that allowed us to get going when we had no home. Then of course we got our first excise bill – that was a challenge we hadn’t quite reckoned with. And there are plenty more.

What is the story behind the Four Pillars Gin cult favourite, Bloody Shiraz Gin? Another brain snap (I mean brilliant idea) from Cameron. When Rob Dolan wasn’t looking during vintage 2015, we ‘borrowed’ 250 kilograms of shiraz and just poured a heap of gin over the top of it, rendering it pretty useless to him but after about eight weeks, bloody delicious to drink. We released it on World Gin Day 2015 with no label as a bit of a treat for anyone who visited, and it literally went nuts.

In 2016 we made a little more, with a proper label (and a bit more alcohol) and then this year it has really taken off – even the Poms are going mad for it.

Over your career, how have the tastes of Australian gin drinkers changed and evolved?

They are far more interested in flavour, provenance and diversity now. When I started in the booze industry there was simply London Dry styles – then Hendrick’s came along and showed there was an appetite for non-traditional flavours, packaging and style and now people are embracing new world gins, including ours. It’s a ripping time to be in the game, we were very lucky to get started when we did.

UNCORKED

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PHOTOGRAPHY: ANSON SMART

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A. Four Pillars Gin. B. Stuart Gregor, founder and director of Four Pillars Gin. C. Gregor with the rest of the Four Pillars team, Matt Jones and Cameron Mackenzie. D. Inside the Four Pillars distillery.

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PROFILE MANAGEMENT

MARGIN CALL HIGH FOOD COSTS ARE A BURDEN ON EVERY VENUE. BUT THERE ARE WAYS IN WHICH TO TACKLE THEM INCLUDING, TONY ELDRED URGES, INVOLVING FRONT OF HOUSE IN THE CONVERSATION.

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Tony Eldred operates Eldred Hospitality Pty Ltd, ‘The Hospitality Specialists’.

Contact him on (03) 9813 3311 or at eldtrain.com.au.

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ne of the questions I always ask applicants for senior management jobs that we are recruiting for our clients is: “What influence does front of house have on food costs in a hospitality business?” It’s common to receive a response along the lines of “food costs are the chef’s problem”. Others correctly talk about wastage from incorrect orders, freebies and staff consumption; but very few identify the main way the waitstaff can torpedo the chef’s best efforts.

The reality in many of the restaurants, pubs and cafes we deal

with is that most of the products sold – both food and beverage – do not have a consistent profit margin attached to them. For example, you generally make a much higher margin on a soup, risotto or pasta than you do on a prawn or steak dish.

Here I have to assume you accurately and objectively calculate the margins you make on your products in the first place. It still chills me when I encounter hospitality businesses that allow their management to wing it and don’t have up-to-date costings on all their products.

The days of automatically making a profit by the seat of your pants are well and truly gone. The costings and margins you make on your products should be available to all leadership staff in your business, so they can train their staff properly and contribute to your increased profitability.

In the absence of this information and proper training, your staff – in the quest to deliver customer satisfaction – will tend to recommend dishes and sides that they perceive give the best value for money for the customer. Unfortunately, in the absence of guidance, their recommendations are often going to be the dishes you make the least profit on.

This becomes particularly problematic when the business has a ‘hero’ dish or dishes that do not make much margin but remain on the menu because the owner fears taking them off, because of popularity.

I have often found the chef has been instructed not to take the offending dishes off or putup the selling price for fear of losing regular customer loyalty.

These dishes can form a high percentage of the total dishes sold and really screw-up the food costs. The chef is now between a rock and a hard place: being accountable for high food costs, but not free to eliminate the problems that are causing the blow-outs.

There are three ways to deal with maintaining margins as products pass through your front of house. The first is time consuming and expensive. It involves training all your service staff, including casuals, to understand all the margins on the products that sell.

They also need to know how to move a customer from a low margin product to a higher margin item.

MANAGEMENT

This kind of training can create some tricky problems you may not anticipate – like the rabid left-wing waiter who became apoplectic when he learned there was a 700 per cent margin on a soup, and called the owner an “unconscionable bastard” in one of our training courses. The concept that something is worth what people are prepared to pay for it is lost on some people.

The second way of dealing with the problem is to make sure that all your popular products have an appropriate margin on them and that you don’t have any loss leaders. The service staff can then sell anything with confidence. The downside is

that this can mean that you may have to decrease portion sizes or charge more than the market will bear. This can lead to damaging customer perception problems.

The third, and probably the simplest way to manage margins via your sales staff is to place codes on your menus and wine lists that identify dishes and wines the staff can recommend when asked. The codes can be overt – like a ‘recommended dish’ symbol next to the items you want to sell – or discrete, like missing full stops after a menu or wine description. I have also seen this achieved by a decorative vine motif down the left side of the menu where some

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The days of automatically making a profit by the seat of your pants are well and truly gone. The costings and margins you make on your products should be available to all leadership staff in your business, so they can train their staff properly. leaves next to high margin items were a solid colour and do not recommend items were shaded.

The main message I want to get across is that the management of food costs is a combined effort between the kitchen and front of house. All too often I encounter businesses that have separated into antagonistic departmental ‘islands’ and the staff have lost sight that they are parts of a whole that must remain healthy or their employment is in jeopardy.

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RECIPE

main PABLO TORDESILLAS GARCIA AND JOSEPH GIUFFRE'S SALTIMBOCCA DI PESCE SERVES 4

4 x 600 g leatherjacket fillets, skin on 360 g lardo, thinly sliced 25 g sage leaves, larges ones preferably 220 g cavalo nero, stem removed and blanched 10 g pine nuts, toasted 10 g currants, soaked in Marsala (50 ml) 100 ml extra virgin olive oil 50 g salted butter 50 ml lemon juice 1 lemon, cut in quarters Salt

M E T H O D On a silicon paper sheet, lay the lardo slices in a vertical position overlapping each other. Place the sage leaves on the skin side of the fish, and with the help of a small palette knife wrap the lardo around the fillets until fully covered.

In a pan on medium heat, warm up half of the extra virgin olive oil and sautĂŠ the cavalo nero, seasoned with salt. Reserve aside.

In a non-stick pan, heat the rest of the extra virgin olive oil and sautĂŠ the fillets, lightly seasoned, skin side down first for about 4 minutes. Then add the salted butter and turn the fillets, basting the fillets with the extra virgin olive oil and butter mixture for another 2 minutes. Remove from the pan and deglaze with the lemon juice until emulsified. Add the pine nuts and the currants to the sauce.

To assemble the dish, place the cavalo nero on the plate and lay the leatherjacket fillets on it. Spoon the sauce over it and garnish with a lemon wedge.

RECIPE

Pablo Tordesillas Garcia and Joseph Giuffre are the head chefs of Sydney’s La Rosa The Strand.

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