Backpacker Essentials August 2015

BACKPACKER /ESSENTIALS / AUGUST 2015

AORAKI MT COOK NZ

ROADTRIPPING SOUTHERN NSW BOLIVIA A BACKPACKER’S GUIDE URBAN WALKS SEE MORE, DO MORE

INSIDE BACKPACKER / ESSENTIALS

4

u

AUSTRALIA/NZ

GLOBAL NEWS VIRGINIA TO THE U.K

Destination NSW

NEW YHAS

u

9

16

u

GETAWAYS

TOP DEALS IN OZ & NZ

21 u

ROAD TRIPING SOUTHERN NSW

VOL 19 / No 4 AUGUST 2015

AORAKI ◆

MT COOK NEW ZEALAND

MANAGING EDITOR Janet McGarry DEPUTY EDITOR Brindi Joy DEPUTY EDITOR Melanie Tesoriero

YHA CONTRIBUTORS Christina Harris Rachel Seymour Tanya Heuke Francois LaJoie

27

Aoraki - Mt Cook Marta Kuleza

Backpacker Essentials is the member magazine for YHA Australia. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the Association. No material may be reproduced without prior permission from the editor. All travel prices are subject to change and conditions apply. All hostel prices are YHA member rates and are subject to change. © YHA Australia ISSN 1328-6749. ®YHA Australia, Hostelling International and YHA house and tree logos are Registered Trademarks of YHA Australia Inc., PO Box A2462, Sydney South NSW 1235

u

34

BOLIVIA

A BACKPACKER’S GUIDE

39 u

URBAN WALKS

SEE MORE, DO MORE

u

45

WHAT’S ON

AUSTRALIA/NZ EVENTS

ART DIRECTOR Dan Morley GRAPHIC DESIGN Nicolas Chua EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES The Editor, Backpacker Essentials, GPO Box 5276, Sydney NSW 2001.

T: +61 2 9261 1111 F: +61 2 9261 1969 E: backpackeressentials@ yha.com.au

Get more travel with the FREE interactive iPad app

exclusive extra content photo galleries video, audio, polls, and more

iPad only app iPhone and Android users can read or download online editions.

Also available as a free online edition and a printable PDF Read or download the latest issue and catch up on previous issues at www.yha.com.au/backpacker-essentials

AUSTRALIA/ NZ BALLARAT / NEWS / YOUR YHA

G N I R O L P EX A H Y H T I W

YHA realises that a lot of backpackers are keen to get off the beaten track and explore unique parts of Australia. Sometimes, however, these locations don’t have a large volume of visitors so there isn't a full YHA hostel operating in the area. This is why last year YHA launched its Explore program, partnering with different styles of accommodation around Australia.

WATCH FOR THIS LOGO

Flinders Ranges - South Australia SATC

Arkaroola Flinders Ranges Maxime Coquard

/ EXPLORE WITH YHA YHA Explore properties are in pubs, farmstays, caravan parks or motels. They don’t always have basic hostel facilities (such as a self catering kitchen), and are not regularly inspected by YHA, but they do have to meet minimum criteria, including regulatory compliance, to be part of the scheme.

YHA currently has seven partners in the Explore program including one on Norfolk Island, two in Queensland, three in South Australia and one in Victoria.

Our Explore properties include the Famous North Gregory Hotel in Winton, Queensland, which legend has it hosted the first public performance of Waltzing Matilda! Also in Queensland is Mt Barney Retreat in Maroon, a wilderness escape in the World Heritage listed Gondwana Rainforests of Australia. In South Australia we have McLaren Vale Backpackers, located in the heart of wine country in a picturesque countryside setting.

The YHA website provides for a secure booking and payment process for these unique Explore properties, although there are no YHA member discounts available.

Click here for the full directory of Explore properties.

Coodlie Park

/ NEWS

KEEP NEW ZEALAND BEAUTIFUL CLEAN-UP WEEK 14 – 20 September 2015 YHA New Zealand is committed to environmental sustainability and helping to protect and preserve New Zealand’s beautiful backyard.

In addition to taking steps across hostels to reduce waste, emissions, energy and water usage, and taking part in YHA NZ’s Green Footprint Project, several hostels walk the talk by taking part in Keep New Zealand Beautiful Clean-Up Week. It’s a chance for staff, guests and the community to get together, dig out their gloves and rubbish bags and get active in helping restore, enhance and protect our local environments.

One day each year YHA Rotorua staff, guests and volunteers pick up litter while traversing walkways that meander through steaming, bubbling and hissing geothermal activity at Kuirau Park across the road from the hostel. The South Island’s YHA Wanaka and YHA Queenstown get involved as well. Queenstown staff select a different spot each year around the alpine village. Last year they picked up hundreds of cigarette butts on the Lake Wakatipu shore.

This year, more YHAs are getting involved with YHA Lake Tekapo and YHA Christchurch joining the force. So, travellers take note! You can join our crews (or any of the hundreds of other community efforts around the country) and help us keep our backyard beautiful for generations to come. Keen to join? Visit knzb.org.nz for more information.

NEXT STOP: CHINA Air China now flies direct between Melbourne and Beijing four times a week!

This will enhance our tourism industry as Australia has just announced ten year visas for Chinese nationals, bringing us in line with the United States, Canada and Singapore who already offer these visas.

Jetstar now flies direct between Melbourne and the Whitsunday Coast Airport three times a week!

This is great news for Airlie Beach YHA and the local tourism industry who will benefit from a more open tourist market.

Shutterstock

/ NEWS

DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN SAVE WITH YOUR YHA MEMBERSHIP? Being a member of YHA gives you exclusive access to 400 discounts across the country – plus 10 percent off accommodation in all of our hostels.

From travel to shopping to entertainment, attractions and eating out, YHA has you covered everywhere you go.

If you’re getting ready for your next backpacking adventure (or first!), check out Cotswold Outdoor and you can receive 15 percent off the full retail value of current season’s range!

Check out yha.com.au for more details and the unique code available exclusively to YHA members.

If you’re feeling that you’d like to take a turn back in time, you can experience Ballarat’s gold rush history at Sovereign Hill, with a special discount exclusive to YHA members. Try your luck panning for real gold at the Red Hill Gully Diggings (which you get to keep!) or be adventurous with fully-guided underground gold mine tours. Be whisked back in time and receive 20 percent off entry when you book through Sovereign Hill Lodge YHA. These are just two examples of some of the discounts on offer to YHA members. For only $25 a year (or $45 for two years) your membership is always worth renewing, even if simply for access to the great local discounts on offer. Be sure to always carry your YHA membership card with you!

BALLARAT YHA u u u

BOOK NOW

Stay at Ballarat YHA +61 7 5571 1776 ballarat@yha.com.au

ARE YOU FOLLOWING US ON INSTAGRAM? Make sure you say up to date with the latest travel snaps from around the country! Satiate your #wanderlust or find your next #travelinspo with YHA. Hashtag #yhaoz and your #travelgram might be featured! Instagram.com/yhaaustralia

YOUR YHA YHA NEWS FOR MEMBERS IN AUSTRALIA

BOARDROOM TO KOKODA Equally at ease chairing a meeting or trekking through the jungle is YHA Ltd’s Chair, Rob McGuirk. Earlier this year, Rob undertook a huge challenge while raising funds for charity by tackling the gruelling Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea with his nephews and niece. This was a personal accomplishment for Rob and a fundraiser for Lifeline – who provide crisis support to equip people to be resilient and to prevent suicide.

Rob is a long-time supporter of YHA, joining as a member in 1990 and serving for many years as a Director and Chair of YHA in Victoria. He has also served on the Hostelling International Board and as Chair of the Asia Regional Committee. Rob joined the Board of YHA Ltd (covering the ACT, NSW, NT, Queensland, SA and Victoria) in 2012 and was elected Chair in 2014.

Rob says “I benefited greatly from my experiences with YHA and the people I met while travelling overseas. I believe in making such experiences available to as many people as possible”.

Team McGuirk at Brigade Hill on Kokoda Track

GLOBAL NOW OPEN / USA EVENTS / EUROPE EVENTS

WE EXPLORE THE LAKES DISTRICT BY FOOT AND SET OUR SIGHTS ON YHAS AROUND THE GLOBE.

VI RI G I N I A K .

U E H T TO

Downtown Richmond - Virginia, US Shutterstock

/NOW OPEN

Main Street Station - Richmond VA Shutterstock

HI RICHMOND - VIRGINIA Calling all history buffs! No visit to the USA is complete until you’ve made it to Virginia; and you can’t miss visiting its capital, Richmond, which was the capital of the Confederate States of America. Now, Richmond is a cosmopolitan city with small town charm, filled with eclectic cafes and restaurants, vibrant nightlife and of course dripping in American history.

The latest HI hostel in the USA is HI Richmond, due to open its doors in late August 2015. Housed in an historic brick building, this newly renovated hostel features all of the latest amenities, while providing plenty of common spaces for travelers to meet and connect. Perfectly situated for biking and hiking trails, kayaking and national parks, HI Richmond hostel is just two hours from Washington DC.

Richmond VA Shutterstock

HI RICHMOND u

hiusa.org

u

richmond@hiusa.org

BOOK NOW

/NOW OPEN

Broel Towers - Kortrijk Shutterstock

KORTRIJK-GROENINGHE, BELGIUM Fancy a trip off the well-trodden European track? Kortrijk may just be the place for you. Located in a Flemish province in Belgium on the French border, with history seeping out of its well preserved medieval architecture, Kortrijk origins date back to the 13th Century. You can scale the Broel Towers and the remains of the medieval city walls, take a walk around the historical city centre with its covered pedestrian mall and complete pedestrian area. No visit is complete without a visit to Flanders Fields - a World War One battlefield now covered in thousands of striking poppies.

A brand new hostel has been built in Kortrijk, characterised by its abstract design and large square windows. It is a sustainable building, built with durable materials and undertakes green initiatives including rainwater in the toilet systems. The hostel boasts a guest kitchen, luggage storage, lockers and free Wi-Fi in the entire building. You can stay in multi-share rooms or private twin rooms in this modern hostel.

Keflavik Hostel

KEFLAVĂ?K HOSTEL u

jeugdherbergen.be

u

kortrijk@vjh.be

BOOK NOW

/NOW OPEN

Ein Gedi - Isreal Shutterstock

HI EIN GEDI HOSTEL Ein Gedi - the lowest point in the world surrounded by the Dead Sea on one side and the Yehuda Desert cliffs on the other is one of the most exciting places in Israel to visit.

It is an oasis in the desert and a green Garden of Eden in the wilderness. The Ein Gedi hostel is in one of the most spectacular locations, facing the Dead Sea. Every room has air-conditioning, a shower and bathroom, TV, coffee-making facilities and some have private balconies overlooking the Dead Sea and the Judean Desert cliffs. With free internet access, complimentary breakfast and audio-visual equipment, the hostel is the perfect place to make your stay.

Hi Ein Gedi hostel has recently opened up a disabled accessible wing, especially for guests with disabilities; the first of this type of wing in Israel. Access to the guest house and its facilities have been adapted for people with a disability and there are 18 new rooms specifically adapted to cater for people with a disability.

HI Ein Gedi Hostel

HI EIN GEDI HOSTEL u

iyha.org.il

u

eingedy@iyha.org.il

BOOK NOW

/NOW OPEN

Seoul - South Korea Shutterstock

HI SEOUL YOUTH HOSTEL Seoul – the ultimate city of contrasts, from modern skyscrapers to Buddhist temples, ancient traditions to cutting-edge technology, street food vendors to pumping nightlife; Seoul is a must-visit city. South Korea’s capital can also boast about having Hostelling International’s most comfortable hostel in its midst – the HI Seoul Youth Hostel. They have state of the art accommodation, free WiFi throughout, a movie room, bakery and cafe as well as cultural activity programs for their guests. Located in the heart of Seoul, HI Seoul Youth Hostel will only make your visit to the capital more memorable.

HI Seoul

HI SEOUL YOUTH HOSTEL u

hiseoulyh.co.kr

u

hiseoulyh@gmail.com

BOOK NOW

/GLOBAL FESTIVALS

LAKE DISTRICT ENGLAND The Lake District is a mountainous region in North West England. Famous for its picturesque lakes, forests and mountains, the Lake District is synonymous with imagery from such stories as the Tales of Peter Rabbit. With stunning scenery and landscape, it is one natural beauty that simply must be experienced firsthand.

Bit of an adventurer? Why not hike through the glorious Lake District over four days; stopping at four YHAs along the way to recharge your batteries. The four day route covers 81.5km and climbs 24 mountains - it is the Lake District at its very best. Follow our route here!

YHA Borrowdale

Langdale to Borrowdale - 23km

Helvellyn to Langdale -17km

YHA Borrowdale (pictured above) - Choose to stay the night in the hostel or camp; in a pod if you want to stay out of the elements or on the banks of the river Derwent in a tent. This hostel has a warm and cosy atmosphere set amongst spectacular mountain scenery in a valley location.

YHA Langdale - Spend the night in a grand Victorian mansion, explore the labyrinth corridors and be captivated by the breathtaking views surrounding the hostel. This unique hostel is perched above a three tier arboretum which is managed by the National Trust.

Borrowdale to Keswick -17.5km

YHA Keswick - Located in a town centre, this hostel provides for a bit of night time exploringif you have the energy! Overlooking the River Greta and Fitz Park, this hostel also has a selfcatering kitchen, a reading room and small quiet room.

YHA Helvellyn

Keswick to Helvellyn -24km

YHA Helvellyn - This hostel is located 293 metres up the third highest mountain in the country and is the perfect spot for hikers, mountain bikers and skiers. Wake up to stunning scenes, take a 20 minute walk to cafes, shops and pubs and have bragging rights forever that you’ve slept on the side of a mountain.

BOOK NOW u

Stay at YHA Borrowdale, YHA Keswick, YHA Helvellyn or YHA Langdale

/GLOBAL FESTIVALS

WORLD EXPO Until 31 October 2015 Milan has turned into a global centre point for all things new in the technology world this year.

Since its inception in 1851, past Expos have presented the world with innovations such as the car, telephone and TV. In this era anything is possible.

This Expo’s theme is “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life” and will focus on the problems facing our society in relation to nutrition and resources. It is a global challenge and with the best minds in the world working to better our society, we may just achieve change.

Expo 2015 Entry - Tree of Life Shutterstock

u u

BOOK NOW

Milano Hostel – Youth Hostel Piero Rottas hihostels.com

I HEARD YOU’RE FROM LONDON! Royal, Culture and Nature In London over the summer? While the Royals are away why not visit Buckingham Palace to see how the other half live? For the first time ever you can check out the State Rooms through the Grand Entrance, normally used by those specially invited by the Queen to visit the Palace. Tickets are available here.

The famous Camden Lock Markets extend their opening hours over the Summer, turning the markets into a pumping energised hub. With international snacks, DJs, live music and of course late night shopping, what could be better to do at night after a day of exploring the city? Click here for more details.

BOOK NOW u

Shutterstock

u

Stay at YHA London Central YHA or London Oxford Street yha.org.uk

DEALS

YHA GETAWAYS

YHA DEALS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

MELBOURNE CITY BREAK

CANBERRA FLORIADE DEAL

ADELAIDE CENTRAL DOUBLE ROOM DEAL

Melbourne is made for exploring! With hidden laneway cafes, pop-up bars, surprising street art and an amazing calendar of events, the longer you stay the more of vibrant Melbourne there is to discover.

Keep your dollars in your pockets and experience all the world’s most liveable city has to offer with this great deal.

Floriade is Canberra’s way of celebrating Spring’s return and with one million flowers in bloom on display, it’s a sight you won’t want to miss. NightFest, Floriade’s twilight event with amazing light displays, night markets and more is a mustsee. Package includes:

Get away for three nights and enjoy the city’s cool cafes, bars and shopping, or go hiking, sightseeing and exploring.

Start the day off right with your breakfast included and enjoy the convenience of our free Wi-Fi.

u u

3 nights' accommodation Daily breakfast One day MYKI card

u u u

2 nights' accommodation 2 breakfasts 1 ticket to Nightfest (x2 if booking twin/double)

3 nights' in one of our bright spacious double /twin rooms u Free pancakes every day u 1 morning continental or hot breakfast for 2 people u

Priced from AU$106.50 p.p.

Valid until 30 September BOOK 2015. Conditions apply.

Priced from AU$98 p.p. multishare or AU$265 for twin/double room. Valid BOOK 22 - 28 September.

Priced from AU$240 double/ twin room. Valid until 30 September 2015.

BOOK Conditions apply.

MELBOURNE METRO YHA

CANBERRA CITY YHA

ADELAIDE CENTRAL YHA

u

NOW

u u

+61 3 9329 8599 melbmetro@yha.com.au

NOW

u u

+61 2 6248 9155 canberracity@yha.com.au

NOW

u u

+64 8 8414 3010 adlcentral@yha.com.au

Whale Surfers Paradise Gold Coast ChameleonsEye - Shutterstock

WHALE WATCHING WONDERS Whale watching is one of those experiences that simply must be on your bucket list.

Every year whales make the 10,000 km journey north to warmer waters so they can mate and give birth.

If you want the best opportunities to view whales in New South Wales and Queensland, why not make the trip to one of the following locations that offer special whale watching and accommodation packages:

PORT STEPHENS WHALE WATCHING PACKAGE 2 nights’ multi-share or double accommodation u 3 hour whale watch cruise u

Priced from AU$109 p.p. multishare. Valid until 17 September 2015.

PORT STEPHENS YHA u u

BOOK NOW

+61 2 4982 1921 portstephens@yha.com.au

COFFS HARBOUR WHALE WATCHING PACKAGE u u u

3 nights’ multi-share or double accommodation 3 hour whale watch cruise Entry into Dolphin Marine Magic Park including dolphin shows

GOLD COAST WHALE WATCHING PACKAGE u u u

1 night accommodation at Surfers Paradise YHA Half day whale watching tour departing Mariner’s Cove Complimentary morning tea

Priced from AU$144 p.p. Valid until 30 September 2015.

Priced from AU$110 p.p. multishare. Valid until 1 November 2015.

COFFS HARBOUR YHA

SURFERS PARADISE YHA

u u

BOOK NOW

+61 2 6652 6462 coffsharbour@yha.com.au

u u

BOOK NOW

+61 7 5571 1776 surfersparadise@yha.com.au

AUCKLAND WINTER WARMER PACKAGE Bundle up with this winter-warmer package bringing together two of Auckland’s best attractions: Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Aquarium and the Auckland War Memorial Museum. Immerse yourself in Stingray Bay, Underwater World, Fish Gallery and Seahorse Kingdom. Then hotfoot it to the Auckland Museum for your fix of Pacific Island and Maori artefacts, Gallipoli in Minecraft®, Auckland’s 175th birthday exhibition, military displays and more. Package includes: u u u u

2 nights' multi-share at YHA Auckland Entry into Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Aquarium Shuttle from downtown to the aquarium Entry into the Auckland War Memorial Museum

BOOK NOW YHA AUCKLAND INTERNATIONAL

Priced from NZ$80 p.p. multi-share. Conditions apply.

24 hour advance booking required. Valid until 7 October 2015.

SOVEREIGN HILL EXPERIENCE Let Sovereign Hill whisk you back to the excitement of the Victorian gold rush! By day explore the authentic 1850s town full of costumed people, working factories and shops, pan for real gold and take an underground mine tour. By night experience the spectacular light-and-sound show ‘Blood on the Southern Cross’, a dramatic battle between gold miners and Government forces. Package includes: u

1 night accommodation in single, twin room or multi-share room at Ballarat YHA u Entry to Sovereign Hill, the Gold Museum and the sound-and-light show ‘Blood on the Southern Cross’ Priced from $119 p.p. multi-share. Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Conditions apply.

u u

+ 64 9 302 8200 auckland@yha.co.nz

HUNTER VALLEY GRAPE ESCAPE Escape to wine country and receive a special accommodation and wine tour deal to start your getaway the right way. Package includes:

2 nights' accommodation u Full day wine tour visiting at least 6 wineries and other local treats u

Priced from AU$115 p. p. multishare or AU$257 per room twin/ double. Valid until 30 September 2015.

HUNTER VALLEY YHA u u

Sovereign Hill

BOOK NOW

BALLARAT YHA u

+61 3 5337 1159

u

ballarat@yha.com.au

BOOK NOW

+61 2 4991 3278 huntervalley@yha.com.au

HIT THE SLOPES TEKAPO DEAL Whether you shred the slopes at a screaming fast pace or you’re an energetic novice, Roundhill has what it takes to keep every snow bunny satisfied. For the pros? Australasia’s largest vertical drop (783m), the world’s longest rope tow and a freestyle park. For the novices? Wide, gentle, slopes and long runs. Add to that wicked views over glacial Lake Tekapo, Mt Cook and Southern Alps and you’ve got an epic day on the mountain. Cap it off with fireside chilling at the lakefront YHA. Package includes: 1 night accommodation in a multi-share room at YHA Lake Tekapo u Roundhill all-day lift pass u

Prices from NZ$90 p.p. multi-share or NZ$208.80 for a private room. For YHA members only.

Valid till 13 September 2015.

YHA LAKE TEKAPO u u

BOOK NOW

+ 64 3 680 6857 laketekapo@yha.co.nz

KIDS SKI FOR FREE AT THREDBO! Stay at Thredbo YHA and take advantage of Thredbo Resort’s amazing offer for families looking to ski this season! Toast marshmallows on an outdoor fire at the hostel after a fun day of snow adventures.

Package includes: u u u

3 nights' accommodation in a family room (1-2 adults & 2-3 children) at Thredbo YHA 1 night time adventure walk by torch light Free chairlift pass for children under the age of 18*

Prices start from AU$585 - not including adult lift tickets. Valid 31 August - 5 October. Lift tickets must be purchased from and issued by Thredbo Resort. * Free lift pass only available with purchase of participating product from Thredbo Resort.

Tap here for details.

Shutterstock

THREDBO YHA u u

+ 61 2 6457 6376 thredbo@yha.com.au

BOOK NOW

WHITSUNDAY MAXI OVERNIGHT SAILING ADVENTURE

FREMANTLE PRISON

This 2 day/2 night Whitsunday Maxi Overnight Sailing Adventure is the trip of a lifetime! Explore the beautiful Whitsunday Islands on one of Australia's most impressive sail boats. Take time out to snorkel the Great Barrier Reef and visit Queensland's stunning white sandy beaches. Package includes:

Lock yourself up and throw away the key.... for an extra night free! At Fremantle Prison YHA you can book for 4 nights and pay for only 3, extending you time served at no extra cost!

u u u u u u

1 night accommodation at Airlie Beach YHA before tour 1 night accommodation at Airlie Beach YHA after tour 2 day/ 2 night maxi sailing adventure All meals on board sailing ship Whitehaven Beach and Hill Inlet Lookout Snorkel equipment

From AU$78 p.p. multishare.

Prices from AU$459 p.p. multi-share accommodation. Valid until 31 March 2016.

BOOK NOW AIRLIE BEACH YHA u

Explore Whitsundays

u

+64 7 4946 6312 airliebeach@yha.com.au

BOOK NOW FREMANTLE PRISON YHA u u

+ 61 8 9433 4305 fremantle@yha.com.au

WEST COAST UNDERGROUND: PUNAKAIKI Take a train through Nile River Canyon’s primeval rain forest and limestone cliffs before going underground into a scramble/climb/leap/black water raft kind of world of stalactites and stalagmites, a slow underground river and glow worms. Explore the Nile River Cave system for a four-hour tour before re-emerging into daylight and resting up at YHA Punakaiki. Package includes: 2 nights’ accommodation u Half day caving and black water rafting guided tour u Digital images u Nile River Rainforest Train passage u Rafting equipment and wetsuits u

Priced from NZ$426 for two people multi-share or NZ$450 for private room. Valid until 1 December 2015.

No experience required. Conditions apply.

YHA PUNAKAIKI u u

+64 3 731 1111 punakaiki@yha.co.nz

BOOK NOW

FEATURE /SOUTH COAST NSW

Road tripping

the

South Coast

Clockwise from top: Fitzroy Falls, Bundanoon; Balloon Spectacular, Canberra; a seal basking in the sun, Narooma, Nan Tien Temple, Wollongong. Shutterstock, Visit Canberra

BY DSON SHANEY HU

IN MY MIND,

our road trip would play out like a 1950s movie: we’d drive down an empty country road in the sunshine, the top down on our classic car, the radio playing a familiar tune, grinning at each other with toothpaste-commercial smiles.

In reality, when we set out things were a little different. We could barely see the truck-infested motorway for the torrential rain. Our golf cartsized rental car looked like it could easily be swallowed in one bite by all the trucks, and instead of romance, there were terse words over which turnoff to take.

Luckily, the rain eased by the time we reached the Southern Highlands.

Turning into the driveway of the 110-year old front facade of Bundanoon YHA felt like we’d escaped to our own country hideaway. Ducks and rosellas grazed through the hostel’s bike track, the sun shrouded the deck with soft light, and inside, a roaring fire warmed the front room.

We’d reached our destination - and finally began to exhale on the first leg of our much-anticipated road trip.

The historical holiday village of Bundanoon had been the first pick when we’d mapped out our road trip plans. There’s an art to road tripping; not just anticipating the miles you cover but what you want to see along the way. For us it was a desire to see the landscape shift from country to coast: our trip would loop from Sydney to the Southern Highlands, down to Canberra, across to Narooma and back up the coast to Wollongong.

We were done seeing the world. We were ready to explore our own backyard.

Tap to see map

Taking the plunge on Shane's Tour, Yamba.

Jimi Richardson

Left to right: Ye Olde Bicycle Shoppe, Bundanoon; the grotto near Fitzroy Falls.

Southern Highlands Tourism, Shutterstock

It’s a two-hour drive from Bundanoon to Canberra, the familiar wind farms and wide expanse of Lake George acting as geographical markers. Wineries and olive farms line the highway, but we push on, keen to leave enough time to explore our chosen destination, the Australian War Memorial, before it closes. It is, as always, a fulfilling visit: the renovated World War One galleries are brilliant; the closing ceremony enhanced by a flock of two-dozen cockatoos soaring over the memorial in salutation during the moment of silence.

From there we head to Canberra YHA, playing parking bingo to secure a spot behind the hostel, which is located in the heart of the city. It’s Friday night and there’s plenty to do: but we pass on pool on the top deck, and the lively thrash metal band in the basement bar, instead settling for coronas, pull-pork tacos and people watching in the Canberra Centre.

Our plan is to leave early for Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve to show my husband some genuine Aussie wildlife. However, we’re sidetracked by the sight of giant satellite dishes poking out from behind a hill along Canberra’s Tourist Drive 5. When we see the turn-off for the NASA Deep Space Centre, we change our plans, figuring that short of visiting the Kennedy Centre in Florida, it’s the closest either of us will ever get to being an astronaut.

The wildlife, however, is unavoidable. We’re stoked to see two cassowary emus wandering casually along the road on the drive back.

However, a few minutes later a kangaroo decides to play chicken with our car while we’re doing 80km/h: we miss him by a few inches, but I do come good on my promise of close encounters with wildlife.

Left to right: Chilling out in the grounds of The Australian War Memorial; Looking towards Old Parliament House from the forecourt of New Parliament House.

All great road trips require sustenance and we found ours on the way to Narooma from Canberra. After taking in the farmer’s markets at Bungendore, we make it halfway down the King’s Highway before we turn back for a random BBQ food truck set up in a paddock by the side of the road. It’s a small, simple moment on the road, but we relish sitting on tree trunks in the sunshine, eating chunks of chopped hog on crusty baguettes in the middle of nowhere.

We arrive in Narooma just before sunset, when the coast drips with golden blessings from the sun, keeping an eye out for the whales, dolphins and seals the area is known for. Out in the distance lies Montague Island, home to a large fur seal colony and penguins, a favoured playground of migrating whales and a paradise for fisherman.

It’s hard to believe unspoiled places like Narooma still exist.

The Narooma YHA has a huge garden and a warm welcome for us when we arrive, and on the recommendation of the managers Heather and Les, we head for breakfast the next day at retro local cafe Quarterdeck. The waiter offers us a cup of fish food, and we can potter to the end of the café’s wharf to feed the hungry bream darting about in incredibly clear waters of the inlet that braces the town.

We’re loathe to turn back on our return leg, so we stretch out the drive up the coast, spending hours in the second hand bookstores of Mogo, stopping at the doughnut van in Berry, and pulling into Kiama to see the famous blowhole.

Left to right: Aerial of Narooma with its Turquoise waters; the quaint village of Central Tilba is only a stone's throw from Narooma.

Desination NSW, Shutterstock

NEWS

Our final stop, Wollongong, surprises me. Far from being the city ruled by steelworks and industry I remember, Wollongong is filled with young professionals, eye-catching street art and murals, and home to a ring of hidden bars and trendy restaurants, including Dagwood, which serves everything from Japanese dumplings to Mexican tacos - along with some wicked celebratory end-of-road trip cocktails.

The next morning we return to Sydney: the coast conspicuous on the driver’s side, a remarkable amount of bush on the other. We reflect on the virtues of road tripping: how the radio station signals fade in and out like a heartbeat over the miles, the wonder of the landscape, and how noisy our car was: filled with conversation, singing and laughter, the kilometres we clicked over bringing us into rhythm with one another.

Our only regret? We needed more time. Each destination had its own personality, its own quirks, and demanded more attention. We’d just have to get out on the road again.

Canberra City YHA

WHERE TO STAY

BOOK NOW

BUNDANOON YHA u (+612)

4883 6010

u bundanoon@yha.com.au

CANBERRA CITY YHA u

(+612) 6248 9155

u

canberracity@yha.com.au

NAROOMA YHA u

(+612) 4476 3287

u

narooma@yha.com.au

WOLLONGONG YHA u

(+612) 4229 1132

u

wollongong@yha.com.au

Top to bottom: Grand Pacific Drive near Wollongong; Breakwater Lighthouse, Wollongong.

Shutterstock

EY DN TO

SY

AUSTRALIA U

IG ME H

AY HW

WOLLONGONG BUNDANOON

KIAMA

AY

PRINCES H

IGH

W

H

NSW SOUTH COAST ROAD TRIP

K I NG

’S

HI

GH WA

CANBERRA

Y

AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

NAROOMA

AUSTRALIA NEW SOUTH WALES

CANBERRA

SYDNEY

FEATURE / NEW ZEALAND

MT COOK ON ICE

In A Far Away Land

◆ TREADING WARILY OVER THE SWING BRIDGE – THE FIRST OF MANY – IT BECOMES CLEAR TO DAVID WHITLEY JUST HOW SPECIAL AORAKI MT COOK NATIONAL PARK REALLY IS.

THE STREAM

barrelling through beneath me has a staggering purity to it, freshly dropped rainwater running together with snowmelt from the glaciers. All around, high alpine mountains shoot up from the valley floor, temporary waterfalls gushing down their sides.

Most of the country’s 3,000 metre-plus giants are clustered around the tallest of them all, Aoraki Mt Cook, and it only takes a look at a map to see how formidable they are. The Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers are just on the other side, but accessing them requires a five hour detour by road.

The Hooker Valley track is a relative baby steps walk. A three hour return trip from the campground car park, or four hours return from Mt Cook Village, the hike threads through the lower reaches of the rubbly landscape. Aside from the bridges, there’s very little to hint at human impact – it feels like the sort of place where Mother Nature is very firmly in charge.

After skirting along ridges and over surging streams, a corner is turned.

Suddenly, out in front is Hooker Lake, and icebergs are floating across it. Some are an eerie blue, others dirt-blackened like slush that has overstayed its welcome on a pavement. But with the mountain backdrop, they look incredibly otherworldly.

Walkers cross a Hooker Valley suspension bridge.

Fraser Gunn

Even the smallest of icebergs appear to dwarf kayakers on Tasman Lake. Glacier Kayaking

A kayaker gets close to the action on Tasman Lake. David Whitely

There are more of these icebergs to be found at Tasman Lake, which has the eerie brilliant blue colour shared by so many of the South Island’s alpine lakes. Apparently, it’s caused by minerals washed down from the mountains – “rockflour” as kayak guide Charlie Hobbs calls it.

Charlie has an almost unnerving enthusiasm for the icebergs. After kitting up and gliding across the perfectly still water, we sidle up alongside one of them. When you’re that low to the water, even the relative tiddlers – say about five metres above the water and several more below – seem huge. But they’re nothing on what they can be.

The lake has only been in existence for about 25 years.

It arrived in the wake of the Tasman Glacier’s rapid 5-6km retreat during that period. And the glacier, safely in the distance, is where the icebergs come from. It stretches about 100m above the waterline, and 300m below. When the bergs break off they can be not far off the same dimensions.

They then drift with the winds to the other side of the lake

BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE! Aoraki Mt Cook National Park is an alpine paradise with much to see and do.

Mountain walks With so many well-marked short walks to choose from you’re sure to spot some European imports: thar (a Himalayan goat), chamois and red deer. Summertime blooms with the Mt Cook lily, mountain daisies and edelweiss.

More experienced alpine hikers will also find tracks to suit with three mountain pass routes.

Glacier hiking and skiing Ice junkies get their fix at the big daddy of New Zealand glaciers, the Tasman Glacier. Fly past the east face of Aoraki Mt Cook to discover ice caves and spectacular glacier formations.

Or, if you’re keen to carve up fresh powder, try glacial heliskiing with 8-12km runs.

and slowly melt. The water may seem terrifyingly cold, but it’s around three degrees Celsius and that’s enough to slowly eat away at the floating bergs.

Charlie doesn’t want us to get too close to them in case they topple over, but when we’re a safe enough distance away, he launches his kayak at one of them. He’s trying to get it to topple over.

When ramming the iceberg fails, he reaches for his ice axe, and starts hacking away at a chunk that is protruding outwards.

This time, it’s a success. The iceberg’s centre of balance changes and it slowly begins to rotate in the water. It’s a chance to see what’s underneath, and the white, frostedover ice gives way to what seems like a virgin, pure, giant ice cube below.

Charlie throws some of the ice he has hacked off into a bucket, and it comes in handy again once safely back on shore. He drops it onto a boulder, then produces a bottle of whisky and some plastic cups from nowhere. Dropping chunks of the ice into the cups, he starts to pour. “People say scotch should be served on the rocks,” he says. “But I say it should be served on the bergs.”

Miles Holden

Southern Alps Guiding

Appreciate the geological, geographical and historical attractions from the Southern Alps to the Pacific Ocean with this 301km bike route that begins at the base of New Zealand’s highest peak (aka Aoraki Mt Cook) and ends at, well… the ocean in historic Oamaru.

In A Far Away Land

Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail

STARGAZING LAKE TEKAPO

About a 90 minute drive from Mt Cook (depending on how many times you pull over to take photos of mountains and lakes), Lake Tekapo has a gloriously chilled vibe about it, hot springs, as well as a picture-perfect setting by one of the alpine region’s characteristic powder-blue lakes.

But Lake Tekapo is a great place to look up. The skies above the region are generally so clear that it’s the perfect spot for stargazing. The region is one of the world’s few gold standard International Dark Sky Reserves, and the Mt John Observatory is home to some of the most powerful telescopes on the planet.

Earth and Sky runs night-time tours up to the observatory. If the skies are clear, this will generally involve being taken on a journey through the constellations by a knowledgeable guide. If clouds are blocking the star show, it becomes more of a behind-the-scenes visit, going inside the giant telescopes and learning about how they’re used to track down potential planets orbiting stars in distant solar systems. These big beasts are trained, far, far away – and are effectively looking back in time in the hunt for something new.

Earth and Sky (+64 3 680 6960) runs night time tours to the Mt John Observatory for NZ$140.There’s also a great YHA at Lake Tekapo to base yourself.

Julian Apse

THE SIR EDMUND HILLARY ALPINE CENTRE Mt Cook is one of those destinations that requires a degree of time flexibility. When the wind and rain comes in from the West Coast, activities can get cancelled and hikes can be an exercise in endurance.

If the great outdoors is a write-off though, there’s one indoor attraction that’s surprisingly engrossing. The Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre is part cinema, part museum. Films are shown on rotation throughout the day, covering topics as diverse as mountain rescue, primeval New Zealand and the night

skies. Prime amongst them are documentaries on Sir Edmund Hillary’s life and Everest conquest.

It’s Sir Ed who’s the star of the museum section too.

There are sections on the guides and personalities who have had their effect on the area over the decades, but the most interesting parts concern Hillary and how he used the Southern Alps as a training ground. Mt Cook and the surrounding mountains have always been testing, technical climbs, and Hillary spent a lot of time tackling them

before summiting Everest.

Interestingly, he also used the Tasman Glacier to improve his dog-sledding and skiing skills before leading an expedition to cross the Antarctic overland.

Some of the black and white photos on display from those pre-trip preparations are brimming with character and story-telling.

4 STEP PARK PREP PLAN You are entering a National Park! But not to worry, in addition to alpine wilderness, this park is home to a small village and 150 hardy residents (300 in summer).

Don’t expect amenities like nearby Twizel (56km) or Lake Tekapo (90km), but also don’t be expect to be left in the lurch.

1

Pick up groceries in Twizel or Lake Tekapo knowing that if you do forget something you can top-up at YHA Mt Cook’s onsite grocery that stocks staples including cheese and frozen meat, limited produce, sweets and snacks.

2

Keen to eat out?

There are five cafe/ restaurant/bars in Mt Cook village including

a Lonely Planet pick, the Old Mountaineers, run by kayak guide, Charlie.

3

MORE INFORMATION

Weather conditions can be temperamental so bring extra layers and be prepared to adapt your plans if storm clouds and wind happen to roll in.

GLACIER KAYAKING

4

WHERE TO STAY

Book ahead in summer! YHA beds are snapped up fast.

◆ +64 3 435 1890 ◆ mtcook.com Running half-day kayaking trips around the icebergs at Lake Tasman for NZ$155.

YHA AORAKI MT COOK ◆ +64 3 435 1820 ◆ mtcook@yha.co.nz ◆ yha.co.nz

YHA Aoraki Mt Cook.

BOOK NOW

NEW ZEALAND AORAKI MT COOK NATIONAL PARK

TASMAN LAKE AORAKI MT COOK NATIONAL PARK

CHRISTCHURCH

SOUTH ISLAND QUEENSTOWN

FEATURE / SOUTH AMERICA

BOLIVIA Hola

Shutterstock

EMMA WHEATON DISCOVERS BOLIVIA IS A COUNTRY RICH IN UNREAL EXPERIENCES.

EN ROUTE TO BOLIVIA

I recall an excited backpacker giving his tips on travelling the landbound nation. Stories of adventure, jungle and mountains abound, and I vividly remember his words: “Bolivia is SO cheap. It’s so cheap that it’s pretty much free!” This was music to the ears of a backpacker part way into a seven-month trip of South America. And although Bolivia may be cheap, this is more like an added bonus to a beautiful, chaotic country overflowing with incredible experiences that will stay with you forever.

My first taste of Bolivia is in the back of a four-wheel drive hurtling through the arid Salar de Uyuni. The infamous salt flats and its surrounds are a must-see for mind-bending landscapes of sandy Salvador Dali-esque deserts, picture-perfect mountains and brilliantly coloured lakes. With flat, white expanses of salt stretching as far as the eye can see, it’s a fun spot to try some trick perspective photography.

The salt itself is mined and exported, as well as being handily used for some of the local buildings we come across and I am tempted to lick their walls. Jutting curiously out of the plains, we visit an ancient island of fossilised coral covered in giant cacti.

Salar de Uyuni's salt flats stretch as far as the eye can see.

Emma Wheaton, Shutterstock

Clockwise from main: Cerro Rico looms large over the city of Potosi; Potosi's colonial architecture; Laguna Colarada's red hues is worth snapping; Llama's are abundant on Bolivia's Altiplano. Emma Wheaton, Shutterstock

Isolated, dry and windy, life on Bolivia’s Altiplano is remote and tough. Aside from an abundance of llamas and flamingoes, even the wildlife seems to be sparse. Thousands of the pretty pink birds feed in the shallows of the lakes and when these lakes are bright turquoise (Laguna Verde) or red (Laguna Colorada), with a backdrop of volcanic mountains, it makes for an unforgettable sight.

Another unforgettable Bolivian experience is a visit to a second mining site, the city of Potosi. Whereas the Salar de Uyuni is mined primarily for salt, once-rich Potosi is famous for its silver mining history, dating back to the 16th century.

Sitting at a breathtaking (literally) 4,000 metres above sea level, Potosi is the highest city in the world. Though there are impressive buildings still standing from its colonial days, seeing the city today it is hard to imagine its steep, cobblestoned streets once rivaled the likes of Paris and London.

Cerro Rico (‘rich hill’) looms large over the city and its dusty mines are still in operation, though the wealth of silver is no more. Pulling on a helmet and head torch I get an insight into the treacherous lives of Potosi’s miners by going underground. It’s a thrilling and terrifying

If it's colourful trinkets and hand-woven fabrics you're hunting, La Paz's laneways and markets deliver.

Emma Wheaton, Shutterstock

Steve McKenna

Steve Mc Kenna

experience scrambling through dirty, narrow tunnels in the dark.

Once back in the safety of daylight the locals happily show us how to set off dynamite. I feel fortunate that it is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of experience and not my everyday occupation, as is the harsh reality for many of Potosi’s residents.

The country’s unofficial capital, La Paz, is dirty, crazy and beautiful all at once. As seems to be the norm in Bolivia, the city is at great altitude and hugs the steep surrounding mountainsides. The Witches’ Market is worth a look, filled with all sorts of curious things from tiny bottled charms and herbs to dried llama fetuses (to bury under your house for good luck). I discover the nearby streets have more markets and restaurants as well as the Coca Museum. Further down is the uniquely inmate-run San Pedro Prison, made famous among backpackers from Rusty Young’s book, Marching Powder. Just when I think nothing could intrigue me more in La Paz I hear about the Cholitas Wrestling.

Inspired by Mexico’s Lucha Libre masked wrestlers, this entertaining ‘sport’ sees masked men of all sizes, and in all kinds of costumes, including one guy dressed as a skeleton, battle it out with Bolivian women in traditional dress – long plaited hair, bowler hats and big, full skirts. It’s a Sunday event not to be missed.

DID YOU KNOW? ◆ The salt plains are the largest

in the world and for the majority of the year are crusty and dry, up to 10 metres thick with salt. ◆ The flamingoes apparently get

their colour from feeding on pink algae. ◆ In La Paz, pedestrians are

helped across zebra crossings by… people wearing zebra suits.

Seriously! ◆ Rosa Maria Ruiz is an incredible

woman who was important in the establishment of Madidi National Park in 1995. She has fought for conservation of the diverse park (almost 20,000 square kilometres in size) for more than 20 years.

Today she focuses on sustainable tourism through her work with Madidi Travel. ◆ Journeying from the Andes

to the Amazon, Death Road is narrow, steep and muddy and is known as the world’s most dangerous road. If you’re game you can join a tour group and ride a mountain bike down it.

Finally, what would a South American trip be without a taste of the Amazon? And the most cost-effective country to see it in is Bolivia of course. The catch is that the gateway to the jungle, Rurrenabaque, is only accessible via a small, scary plane trip or a long bus ride down Death Road. I opt for an overnight bus, figuring the darkness means I won’t be able to see the sheer cliff dropping away below. Rurrenabaque has a cool, laidback vibe but I don’t stay for long, booking trips to the pampas and Madidi National Park to swim with pink river dolphins, spot caiman, spider monkeys and wild pigs, fish for piranhas and listen to the haunting racket of howler monkeys.

I’ve only scraped the surface of this country’s highlights yet I’ve experienced bizarre, salty landscapes, lofty cities with stunning mountain views and a balmy town bordered by rainforest. And that’s Bolivia for you – wild, unique and full of contrasts.

Clockwise from main: The Amazon is a sure bet for wildlife sighting's such as Caiman; colourful butterflies; Capybara; as experienced guides show you the way.

Emma Wheaton

◆ Bolivia is home to the world’s

highest altitude lake, Lake Titicaca. This lake is large and surrounded by stunning scenic mountains. From here you can take boat trips to see its islands, such as Isla del Sol (birthplace of the Incan Sun God), and traditional Aymara villages. ◆ Sucre is Bolivia’s official capital.

A beautiful city of whitewashed buildings, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage listed site and a good, affordable place to learn Spanish.

WHERE TO STAY There are 14 HI hostels in Bolivia including all the main areas like La Paz, Potosi and Sucre. Find out more and book at hihostels.com

BOOK NOW

FEATURE / URBAN WALKS

URBAN WALKS

Melanie Ball, Tourism Australia, Shutterstock

MELANIE BALL SET OFF ON FOOT TO EXPLORE FOUR OF AUSTRALIA'S CITIES MORE INTIMATELY.

CITIES ARE

very different creatures by night and day. Evening illuminations and the shadows they cast accentuate history and mystery while flashing neon creates supersaturated Las Vegas-esque streetscapes that – according to Elvis Presley, anyway - can set your soul on fire. But while it’s hard to resist the lure of bright lights announcing, “Here I am, come party!” sun-lit cities are something else again.

There is no better way to experience a city’s daytime persona than on foot and Australia has some wonderful urban walks. Here are four top options.

MANLY SCENIC WALKWAY, SYDNEY

DOWNLOAD...

a map at Manly Scenic Walkway

Water has governed life in Australia’s largest city since the First Fleet sailed through the Heads in 1788 and the Manly Scenic Walkway celebrates spectacular Sydney Harbour. Tracing an 11km curlicue from the Spit Bridge to Manly, this walk hugs the shores of tranquil coves, flirts with multi-million dollar flotillas of pleasure boats and wades through seas of coastal heath to scenic lookouts on precipitous cliffs.

The best plan of attack is to bus to the Spit Bridge and ferry back to Circular Quay in the late afternoon, after a swim at Manly Beach, so you catch the Harbour Bridge and its strings of climbers silhouetted by the lowering sun.

Catch a 178, 179 or 180 bus to Spit Bridge from stand D in Carrington St, Sydney, behind Wynyard Station, just 10-minutes’ walk from Sydney Harbour YHA.

WHERE TO STAY SYDNEY HARBOUR YHA T: +61 2 8272 0900 E: sydneyharbour@yha.com.au

yha.com.au

A rocky cove en route to Manly Melanie Ball

BOOK NOW

YARRA BEND, MELBOURNE

DOWNLOAD...

Parks Victoria walk notes

Indisputably less impressive than Sydney’s expanse of blue water but undeserving of ridicule as the river that flows upside down, Melbourne’s Yarra is a gateway to the quieter side of Victoria’s capital. Chiming bellbirds perform the soundtrack for a lazy, looping 11km walk along the Yarra and Merry Creek from Studley Park Boat House (complete with scones, wooden boat hire and resident geese).

Visit an aboriginal crossing point and the ruins of a colonial-era flour mill, refuel at Fairfield Park Boathouse, an early 20th century weatherboard beauty saved from sliding into the river in 1985, and stroll through a massive colony of grey-headed flying foxes (fruit bats) that hang out in riverside red gums along Yarra Boulevard, a prestigious inner-city address.

Catch a 200 or 207 bus from Queen St (near Little Collins St), CBD, to within a few hundred metres of Studley Park, and stay at Melbourne Central YHA.

WHERE TO STAY MELBOURNE CENTRAL YHA T: +61 3 9621 2523 E: melbcentral@yha.com.au

yha.com.au

The Melbourne skyline from Yarra Bend loop.

Melanie Ball

BOOK NOW

MT WELLINGTON, HOBART

PICK UP...

Tasmap’s Wellington Park map, available at visitor information centres, on the Spirit of Tasmania and online

Standing sentinel behind Tasmania’s waterfront capital, and sheltering it from the worst Southern Ocean weather, kunanyi/Mount Wellington demands to be summited. You can drive to the top and take in the sweeping view of mountains, river estuary and peninsula without leaving the bitumen but where’s the fun and reward in that? The summit view packs the most powerful punch when you walk there.

Kilometres of hiking trails from rainforest rambles to remote alpine treks can be linked into loop walks of different degrees of difficulty.

For a moderate-to-hard all-day hike of about 14km, drive to Fern Tree and walk up the mountain via the Fern Glade, Sphinx Rock lookout and the Organ Pipes, a great wall of dolerite columns, and back down from the granite-strewn treeless summit via the steep ZigZag Track, Silver Falls and historic Pipeline Track.

WHERE TO STAY HOBART YHA T: +61 3 6231 2660 E: montys@yha.com.au

yha.com.au

Downhill from the top of Mt Wellington.

Melanie Ball

BOOK NOW

ADELAIDE – SUMMIT TO SEA

BUY...

a brochure from the Friends of the Heysen Trail online

Adelaide abounds with parks, manicured and mown, wilder and scruffier, some dating from the 1830s, when a River Torrens site was chosen for Australia’s first free colony and public open space shaded green on the town plan. And in the 1990s bushwalker George Driscoll plotted a linear walk through the suburban reserves, urban gorges and national parks between Kingston Park Beach, on Gulf St Vincent, and Mount Lofty, in the Adelaide Hills.

The George Driscoll Sea to Summit is promoted as a 32km day walk but, seriously, why slog uphill for a day, puffing like a steam train, when you can walk downhill over two and finish with sand, sea and ice cream? It’s a no-brainer!

While you’ll need to taxi to Mt Lofty BOOK Summit, or ask a friend to drop you WHERE TO STAY NOW off, suburban trains service the midpoint of the walk, at Coromandel MT LOFTY YHA Station, and the sandy finish line.

T: +61 8 8414 3000 Buy a brochure from the Friends E: mountlofty@yha.com.au of the Heysen Trail and be prepared yha.com.au to transcribe directions written for walking in the opposite direction.

ADELAIDE CENTRAL YHA You can start the Mt Lofty end by an T: +61 8 8414 3010 overnight at Mt Lofty YHA and include a night at Adelaide Central YHA. E: adlcentral@yha.com.au

yha.com.au

TOP 5 OTHER URBAN WALKS

1

Check out museums, old quarries, botanic gardens, bridges, the new Riverwalk and abseilers on CBD-facing cliffs on Brisbane’s 5km Kangaroo Point loop walk.

Park, two thirds of which is native bushland bisected by walking tracks.

3

Amble from central Launceston along the Tamar River to the South Esk River and lose yourself Follow the coast north in Cataract Gorge, following from Darwin’s Mindil a 19th century pathway to Beach to East Point peacock-patrolled gardens.

Reserve, the city’s largest park, stopping off at Fannie Bay Gaol and the city’s Military Museum.

5

2

Climb from the Australian National Botanic Gardens on Black Mountain’s lower slopes to Canberra’s landmark telecommunications tower for views over the city.

4

Take in the view over Perth – a blur of moving lights at night - from Kings

WHAT'S ON HERE’S OUR PICK OF EVENTS COMING UP IN YOUR REGION

SPRING HAS SPRUNG!

These three cities know how to celebrate the reprieve from the cold. Put some colour into your life, make a weekend of it and welcome spring at these great festivals:

ACT

1. FLORIADE 12 September - 11 October 2015 Floriade showcases one million flowers in bloom throughout Commonwealth Park in Canberra. Better yet, entry is free! Experience the magnificent flower displays set amongst this year’s theme Reflection; paying tribute to the centenary of the ANZACs. Every week visitors will be treated to something new and different, based around the theme. Make sure you don’t miss NightFest, the ticketed twilight event which is simply magical. With extraordinary lighting displays, night markets, live music and comedy shows, the park turns into a spectacular show of what we love most about Spring.

BOOK NOW

u u u

Stay at Canberra City YHA +61 2 6248 9155 canberracity@yha.com.au

2. SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS TULIP TIME 15 - 27 September 2015 For the 55th year, the Southern Highlands will again be touting their tulips, this year aligning with the colour hot pink and theme of Mother Nature. You won’t want to miss the spectacular floral display and colourful activities including street markets, music in the gardens, children’s entertainment and more.

BOOK NOW

u u u

N SW

Stay at Bundanoon YHA +61 2 4883 6010 bundanoon@yha.com.au

3. LEURA GARDEN FESTIVAL 3 - 11 October 2015

N SW

This is a garden festival like no other. Explore 10 gardens across Leura and marvel at each one’s distinctive character and exotic variety. All funds raised go towards the Blue Mountains District Anzac Memorial Hospital and other local medical foundations, so support a good cause and head to the mountains for a relaxing, colour filled day. The festival also hosts music in the gardens everyday at 1pm and plant sales at a mini nursery if you get inspired to create your own backyard masterpiece.

BOOK NOW

u u u

Stay at Blue Mountains YHA +61 2 4782 1416 bluemountains@yha.com.au

VI C

MELBOURNE FRINGE FESTIVAL 16 September 4 October 2015

Get swept up in the excitement of the Melbourne Fringe Festival.

This event showcases and celebrates the best of Melbourne’s, Australia’s and the world’s independent art in all its forms including theatre, comedy, music, performance art, film, cabaret, digital art and circus performance.

With a program that will inspire, shock and wow you at every turn it’s an event not to be missed.

Circle the date and get ready to see Melbourne brought to life. For more information head to melbournefringe.com.au.

QLD

u

ROYAL QUEENSLAND SHOW - EKKA 2015 7 - 16 August 2015

Stay at Melbourne Metro YHA or Melbourne Central YHA

WINTER GAMES NZ 21 - 30 August 2015

NZ

It’s billed as the biggest party on southern snow and brings Winter Olympic, Paralympic and X Games stars together to compete for glory in alpine skiing, curling, freeskiing, cross-country and snowboarding. The Southern Alps on-mountain action is accompanied by a festival programme of entertainment, an adventure film festival and live bands in the two Games Villages - the lakeside resort towns of Queenstown and Wanaka. And it’s all free. wintergamesnz.kiwi.

Royal Brisbane Show

The Royal Queensland Ekka Show presents the best that Queensland has to offer, proudly displaying its agriculture with more than 10,000 animals, award-winning food and wine, plus loads of family entertainment. The ultimate city-meets country event, Ekka is famous for its animals. For its 138th year, you can receive 10 percent off adult, child and concession passes to Ekka 2015 using the promo code 158YHAQLD. Valid any day from 7 to 16 August, not valid with any other ticket type or offer and strictly one offer per member. For more information and Ts & Cs, visit ekka.com.au.

BOOK NOW

u u u

Stay at Brisbane City YHA +61 7 3236 1004 brisbanecity@yha.com.au

BOOK NOW

u

Stay at YHA Queenstown, YHA Queenstown Lakefront or YHA Wanaka

BOOK NOW

N SW

SMOOTH FEASTIVAL OF CHOCOLATE 12 - 13 September 2015

Calling all chocoholics!

The Smooth Festival of Chocolate is back at The Rocks and is more chocolatey than ever. For one weekend you can forget about the guilt and indulge in the best chocolate that Sydney has to offer. Be inspired by chefs and chocolatiers as they cook up a storm at the Callebaut test kitchen and take home enough treats to last you the year. Roll back to the comfortable Sydney Harbour YHA to dream the chocolatey dream.

BOOK NOW u u u

Stay at Sydney Harbour YHA +61 2 8272 0900 sydneyharbour@yha.com.au Shutterstock

VIC

MELBOURNE SPRING FASHION WEEK 28 August - 4 September 2015 When you think of fashion in Australia the first city that springs to mind is Melbourne (sorry Sydney, but you know it’s true). So it’s little wonder that Melbourne plays host to the Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, presenting the best in the upcoming spring/summer collection and reminding us all why Melbourne is an iconic destination for fashion, retail, design and hospitality.

There are over 200 events and sessions on the 2015 program (the majority free) and tickets start at $35, with premium packages available for a selection of designer runways if your wardrobe sees fit. For more information head to Melbourne.vic.gov.au/msfw.

u

Lucas Dawson Photography

Stay at Melbourne Metro YHA or Melbourne Central YHA

BOOK NOW

NT

DARWIN FESTIVAL 6 - 23 August 2015

Celebrate all that is great about Darwin over an 18 day festival crammed with free outdoor events, music and comedy, all packaged nicely together with Darwin’s outstanding food and weather.

The Darwin Festival is one of the prime events of the Darwin calendar. You’ll see top international acts, theatre shows, exhibitions, wild night outs at the festival club and food stalls as far as the eye can see (and the stomach can handle). All in a relaxing, family friendly, community setting! For More details head to darwinfestival.org.au.

CHRISTCHURCH WEEKENDS FOR FOODIES Sunday Mornings

NZ

Sunday mornings at The Commons now play host to the Downtown Farmers Market, complete with live music, local producers, artisans and food trucks. It also brings back dodge ball, sack races and fun retro sports. facebook.com/downtownfarmersmarketnz.

Adelaide City Shutterstock u

u u

Stay at Darwin YHA +61 8 8981 5385 darwin@yha.com.au

BOOK NOW

BOOK NOW u

Stay at YHA Christchurch or YHA Christchurch Rolleston House

WELLINGTON ILLUMINATED 21 - 30 August 2015 It’s a little off-beat. It’s illuminating. And it’s free.

Wellington’s waterfront and laneways will light up with more than thirty light sculptures and interactive installations

by New Zealand and international artists - all to bring lightness and brightness to the Capital City in a celebration of light, art, technology and design. As part of UNESCO’s International Year of Light, the Wellington LUX Festival will also include a symposium exploring how light is used socially, politically and globally and will include talks from LUX artists. lux.org.nz.

NZ u u u

Stay at YHA Wellington +0800 278 299 (NZ) +1800 242 191 (Aus) book@yha.co.nz

BOOK NOW

NZ

CLASSIC NZ RACES 26 September 2015

“Life reveals itself to the ones who travel on foot.” - Werner Herzog. But why walk when you can run? Stretch your hamstrings and lace up your shoes for a 36km race guaranteed to get your heart pumping and jaw dropping in one of New Zealand’s stunning coastal locales. The Abel Tasman Great Walk transforms into a runner’s paradise of coastline, gold sand beaches, native bush and pushed-to-the-limit muscles for one day each year. nelsonevents.co.nz.

BOOK NOW u

Stay at YHA Coromandel YHA Nelson or YHA Motueka

MORE EVENTS SOCCEROOS V BANGLADESH World Cup Qualifier 3 September 2015 Stay Perth City YHA

SALA FESTIVAL August 2015 Stay Adelaide Central YHA

ONE HIT WONDER MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL 8 - 12 September 2015 Stay Blue Mountains YHA

Bark Falls Wilsons Abel Tasman

NEWCASTLE JAZZ FESTIVAL 28 - 30 September 2015 Stay Newcastle Beach YHA

2015 MAGNETIC ISLAND BAY DAYZ FESTIVAL

QLD

4 September - 4 October 2015 Magnetic Island bursts with 50 + events and activities during the month-long Magnetic Island Bay Dayz Festival each September. The program is jam-packed and includes cooking masterclasses, movies under the stars, Oktoberfest, markets, the popular sand sculpture competition, the junior fishing competition, workshops, art exhibitions plus so much more! The festival has something for everyone! The full program is available mid August at whatsonmagneticisland.com.au. Book your accommodation early at Magnetic Island YHA!

BOOK NOW u u u

Stay at Magnetic Island YHA (+617) 4778 5577 magneticisland@yha.com.au

BOOK ONLINE

YHA.COM.AU YHA.CO.NZ

BACKPACKER / ESSENTIALS

YHA.COM.AU YHA.CO.NZ NEXT ISSUE AVAILABLE 7 OCTOBER 2015