BACKPACKER / ESSENTIALS / FEBRUARY 2015
MELBOURNE LIKE A LOCAL BATTLEFIELD TRIPS TRAVELLING HISTORY TE ANAU MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE WHAT'S ON IN OZ AND NZ TIME TO GET OFF THE COUCH
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INSIDE BACKPACKER / ESSENTIALS
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AUSTRALIA/NZ
GLOBAL NEWS MADRID TO MIAMI
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GETAWAYS
TOP DEALS IN OZ & NZ
YHA
NEW YHAS
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SKIP THE TOURIST TRAPS, SEE MELBOURNE LIKE A LOCAL
27 Backpacker Essentials is the member magazine for YHA Australia. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the Association. No material may be reproduced without prior permission from the editor. All travel prices are subject to change and conditions apply. All hostel prices are YHA member rates and are subject to change. © YHA Australia ISSN 1328-6749. ®YHA Australia, Hostelling International and YHA house and tree logos are Registered Trademarks of YHA Australia Inc., PO Box A2462, Sydney South NSW 1235
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VOL 19 / No 1 FEBRUARY 2015
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WHAT'S ON
AUSTRALIA/NZ EVENTS
MANAGING EDITOR Janet McGarry DEPUTY EDITOR Elinor Sheargold NEW ZEALAND EDITOR Brindi Joy YHA CONTRIBUTORS Christina Harris Rachel Seymour Tanya Heuke Francois LaJoie ART DIRECTOR Dan Morley GRAPHIC DESIGN Elinor Sheargold Nicolas Chua
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES The Editor, Backpacker Essentials, GPO Box 5276, Sydney NSW 2001. T: +61 2 9261 1111 F: +61 2 9261 1969 E: backpackeressentials@ yha.com.au
AUSTRALIA/ NZ NEW PLYMOUTH / FREMANTLE / NEWS
S A H Y W E N L O CO
O E R F M O FR I K A N A R TO TA
Mt Taranaki, New Plymouth, NZ Josh Woskett
New Plymouth ocean walk Shutterstock
New Plymouth Beach & Mt Taranaki Shutterstock
Dawson Falls, Egmont National Park Shutterstock
/ NEW YHAS
NEW PLYMOUTH, NZ New Zealand has said Kia Ora to a new North Island hostel. YHA New Plymouth is a lovingly restored boutique hostel, an ideal base to explore Mt Taranaki, Surf Highway 45, the Coastal Walkway, the Sunday Farmers’ Market and so much more. Travellers visiting New Plymouth will discover no end of things to see and do. Surrounded by lush farmland, this seaside town sits in the shadow of Mt Taranaki in the Egmont National Park – a playground for walking and exploring. The city itself has an outdoorsy vibe that’s fed by the surfers hanging out for the next wave and the cyclists and walkers itching to hit the tracks. There’s also an active art scene and a café culture. The YHA is a 15 minute walk to the town centre. Facilities include all your YHA staples such as a range of shared and private rooms, a communal kitchen, lounge and dining area, plus a herb garden for cooking up Michelin quality meals, a scenic native garden and picnic area with BBQ. And they have some extra special add-ons such as Marvy, the resident Poodle pup, free bike hire, tent sites, a guitar, piano and electric blankets and hot water bottles for those chillier winter nights.
YHA NEW PLYMOUTH u +64 6 759 0050 u newplymouth@yha.co.nz u yha.co.nz
BOOK NOW
Fremantle Prison Tourism WA
Little Creatures Brewery, Tourism WA
Cicerello's Fishing Boat Harbour Tourism WA
/ NEW YHAS
FREMANTLE, WESTERN AUSTRALIA The hotly anticipated Fremantle Prison YHA is set to open in Spring 2015, bringing unique accommodation to this port city only 19km from Perth. Located in the women’s division of the World Heritage listed Fremantle Prison, the 200-bed hostel will give guests the option of sleeping in 19th century cells or Victorian-style guards’ cottages by the gates, all converted with 21st century comfort and conveniences. In addition to shared, twin/double and family ensuite rooms, the hostel will offer: large common areas, kitchens, TV and reading rooms, plus plenty of outdoor spaces; WiFi and computers; 24-hour reception; air-conditioning and heating; a guest laundry; ping pong, volleyball and a pool table; luggage storage and lockers; a tour desk and café next door. Just a few minutes’ walk will land you in the centre of “Freo”, with its colourful markets, humming café strip, buzzing nightlife, and charming 19th century streetscapes. Visit the Maritime Museum, take a historic tram ride, wander the Fishing Boat Harbour for fish and chips and microbreweries, or hit the beach. Visit yha.com.au.
Fremantle Prison Gatehouse Fremantle Prison YHA
FREMANTLE PRISON YHA u fremantle@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
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CHINESE YEAR OF THE SHEEP
SYDNEY ROYAL EASTER SHOW EARLYBIRD TICKETS
Welcome in the Chinese Year of the Sheep (aka Year of the Goat or Ram) at one of the many celebrations taking place around Australia. Parades and pyrotechnics, food and fortune cookies, dancing and dragon boat races – it’s all here! Find out what’s happening in a city near you.
The biggest carnival in the Southern Hemisphere returns to Sydney from 26 March to 8 April 2015 and you can save on entry by snapping up earlybird tickets, on sale until 16 March. ShowLink tickets include Show entry and same-day return public transport. Plus save on pre-purchased Carnival Ride and Meal Deal eVouchers and reserved seating at the big spectacles. Book online at eastershow.com.au
VIRGIN LAUNCHES RED CENTRE ROUTES AUSTRALIA Virgin Australia has announced two new Central Australia routes to start from March 2015. The airline will introduce direct services between Darwin and Alice Springs and between Adelaide and Alice Springs, with both routes seeing three services per week. virginaustralia.com
Adult ShowLink AU$35.50 (save 10%) u
Child ShowLink AU$21.60 (save 10%) u
CRICKET WORLD CUP
Family ShowLink AU$99.50 (save 20%) u
Book online at yha.com.au or yha.co.nz
Royal Agriculture Society
Returning after 23 years, the 11th ICC Cricket World Cup will be jointly held across Australia and New Zealand, from Hobart to Hamilton, in February and March this year. Tickets start from $20; and YHA hostels are in every host city (except Dunedin) for you to stay close to the action without breaking the bank. So whether you are cricket-crazy or an occasional fan, don’t miss the chance to see 14 of the world’s best teams battling it out for cricket’s biggest international prize. Catch a Match in Australia or New Zealand. Catch a match.
Concession ShowLink AU$26.50 (save 10%) u
ICC Cricket World Cup
City of Sydney
/ NEWS
/ NEWS
SNOW TIME
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NEW ZEALAND Love skiing, snowboarding, snow shoeing or any and all fun on and off the piste? Check out New Zealand’s great snow hostels located near some of the country’s best slopes. But book your alpine holiday early, once the white stuff hits the mountains beds fill up fast. For inspiration visit yha.co.nz.
AUSTRALIA
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Shutterstock
Now is the time to start thinking about a snow holiday close to home, especially with Thredbo early bird ski season bookings available from 1 March 2015. With peak season prices starting from AU$202 per person (two night weekend) and $172 per person midweek (two nights), Thredbo YHA is the best choice in town.
THREDBO YHA u thredbo@yha.com.au
u yha.com.au
BEST JOB IN THE WORLD When Ben Southall trumped more than 35,000 competitors to win Tourism Queensland’s Best Job in the World campaign in 2009, he won not only a lucrative six months living in the Whitsundays but also gained a new life in Australia. Five years on, he has written a book about the story of that award-winning tourist campaign but also on his many other travels and adventures. Sub-titled as ‘How to make a living from following your dreams’, the book is a bright and breezy read that mixes a chronological narrative of his travelling life, with How To tips on turning your passions into your life. Whilst this sounds a bit New Ageish and hokey, he manages to skirt clichés with crisp writing and good pacing. The first half of the book is actually the more interesting as he describes an adventurous year driving right around the African continent. The more well-known section on his Queensland experience is actually less captivating just because of the over-exposure of the story at the time. It’s hard to tell how much he is keeping back here with no criticism or insiders' insights into the whole experience – a decision possibly coloured by his ongoing relationship with promoting Queensland. That aside, this is perfect holiday reading with enough inspiration to get your travel juices working.
WIN A COPY!
We have 10 copies of Best Jobs to giveaway. Just email yhaessentials@yha.com.au with your perfect Australian holiday destination in 25 words or less to be in the running for a copy. Include your full name and postal address. Competition only open to Australian or New Zealand residents and closes 28 February 2015.
YOUR YHA YHA NEWS FOR MEMBERS IN AUSTRALIA
YHA EXPLORE PROGRAM With more than 90 hostels around Australia, YHA offers an extensive range of places to stay. But there are many areas (particularly in regional Australia) where there is either not a suitable property or a hostel is not viable. To help members find interesting places to stay off the beaten track, YHA has introduced Explore – a program of properties in less well visited spots. These are not hostels, but may be in pubs or motels, farmstays or caravan parks. They won’t necessarily offer the facilities of a YHA (like self-catering). Explore properties can be found on yha.com.au by searching for the area you want to visit and looking for the Explore symbol. They are bookable online.
Flinders Ranges’
VOLUNTEER BOARD OF DIRECTORS YHA is governed by a Board of Directors that volunteers their time and skills to oversee the organisation’s strategic direction. Each year, eligible and experienced members are invited to stand for election to the Board. The YHA Ltd Board covers operations in the ACT, NSW, NT, Queensland, South Australia and Victoria, and the results of the 2015 election for the Board of Directors will be announced at the Annual General Meeting (AGM) on 11 April 2015 in Sydney. For more information see yha.com.au
PROUDLY NOT-FOR-PROFIT YHA was set up as a not-for-profit organisation in Australia in 1939, and continues this tradition today. The YHA mission statement is: “To provide opportunity for all, but especially young people, for education by personal development, fostering friendship and bringing about a better understanding of others and the world around them”. Being not-forprofit means that any surpluses generated by YHA go back into providing even better hostels and services for our members and guests. You can even contribute towards YHA’s special causes, through adding $1 to bookings made on yha.com.au towards YHA’s Sustainable Hostels Fund, or donating towards YHA’s Small Hostels Development Fund – see yha.com.au for details.
VALE BRUCE MORISON OAM A YHA pioneer passed away just before Christmas 2014 and his funeral was on 2nd January in Sydney.Bruce Morison met his wife-to-be Joan at the YHA Canoe Club in the 1940s. They went on to devote 65 years to the development of canoeing in Australia and both received an Order of Australia for their services. They were also individually and together very competitive sprint and marathon canoists. They always kept up their interest in YHA and Bruce was a regular attendee at the AGM wanting to contribute back to the organisation that had been influential in his early years. Bruce was also, as he was frequently referred to at his funeral, a heap of fun and a person who could talk to anybody. More details about his life are here: www.paddlensw.org.au/blog/vale-brucemorison-oama
GLOBAL SPAIN / WALES / USA / MAKING NEWS
MA D RI D TO MI AMI HOLA MADRID! CROESO CARDIFF! HOWDY MIAMI! WE CHECK OUT THE COOLEST NEW YHAS AROUND THE GLOBE
La Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace, Madrid Shutterstock
/NOW OPEN
Fountain in Plaza de la Cibeles; street art in Getafe; Plaza Mayor.
MADRID, SPAIN The Spanish capital has welcomed its first boutique backpacker hostel with the opening of The Hat Hostel, next to Madrid’s Plaza Mayor. Whether it’s down to the stylish modern design of the refitted former palace, the super central location, or the top quality services, The Hat is already making a name for itself as THE place to stay in town. Guests are spoiled with Smart TVs, free breakfast, big lockers, free walking tours, a rooftop terrace bar offering drinks, snacks and buena vistas, 24-hour access, bike rental, underground cellar area, and lightning-fast free WiFi. Shared and private rooms are light, large, and airconditioned. Many feature private bathrooms and a balcony looking out onto the street or internal courtyard, and all include individual lights and powerpoints. Three minutes' walk from Puerta del Sol, Gran Via and La Latina, it’s a perfect spot to launch your explorations of this alluring city’s extravagant architecture, artistic pedigree, gastronomic glories (the world’s oldest restaurant is found here) and nightlife that’s the stuff of legend. Ask the hostel’s “ambassadors” about local discounts for YHA members.
Shutterstock, Lukasz Janyst
BOOK NOW THE HAT MADRID u
booking@thehatmadrid.com
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hihostels.com
/NOW OPEN
Deymos.HR Shutterstock
CARDIFF, WALES The Millennium Centre arts complex Deymos.HR Shutterstock
BOOK
The Welsh capital is fast emerging as one of Britain’s NOW hippest cities, and with the opening of a brand new YHA in early 2015, Cardiff is sure to be on the UK YHA CARDIFF CENTRAL hotlist in no time. u cardiff@yha.org.uk YHA Cardiff Central promises state-of-the-art, allu yha.org.uk ensuite shared and private accommodation, within easy walking distance to the main train station, Cardiff Bay attractions and compact city centre. The 24-hour hostel will also offer free WiFi, cafe/bar, guest kitchen, TV lounge, games room, and onsite parking. For extra comfort, why not splurge on a hotel-style premium room, featuring added extras like TV, safe, dressing table, hairdryer, soap and towels. Step outside, and you’ll soon be exploring the ultramodern waterfront, joining shoppers at the Hayes, rugby fans at spaceship-like Millennium Stadium, and revellers at the thriving pubs, bars and live music venues. From the Dr Who Experience, and spooky ghost tours, to OTT Cardiff Castle and the Welsh National Museum (one of Britain’s best – seriously), Cardiff will keep you busy for days, even weeks. Opening March 2015. Visit yha.org.uk/grand-designs for more hostel news from Wales and England. Cardiff Castle's many faces Shutterstock
/NOW OPEN
The SoÄ?a River and Julian Alps Shutterstock Miami's iconic Ocean Drive, South Beach and Art Deco buildings.
MIAMI, USA It’s crazy but cool, boasts year-round sunshine, white sandy beaches and a legendary social scene - Miami is a must-see destination in the USA. Now travellers on a budget can enjoy the laidback beach vibe by day and watch the transformation into glitzy nightlife hotspot when the sun goes down, with the opening of the new HI Miami Beach. The hostel is right in heart of the historic South Beach Art Deco district, located two blocks from the beach, boardwalk, the famous Ocean Drive and car-free shopping and dining strip on Lincoln Road. Guests can choose from a range of spacious multi-share and private rooms, while facilities include a self-serve kitchen and inviting dining area with terrace overlooking the action on Collins Avenue, plus 24-hour access, free WiFi, and an onsite cafe at street level. Stay tuned for more new US hostels in Richmond, Virginia and Monterey Bay, California, or check out HI USA's recently renovated hostels in Austin, Baltimore, Chicago, San Diego, San Francisco and Washington DC. Visit hiusa.org.
Kamira, Shutterstock, American Spirit
BOOK NOW HI MIAMI BEACH u
miamibeach@hiusa.org
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hiusa.org
/NEWS EUROSTAR UNVEILS NEW LOOK AND NEW ROUTES In 2015 Eurostar will celebrate 21 years since the first Channel Tunnel crossing between England and France, and it, the rail operator, is already marking its coming of age with a new look and broader horizons. First up, they have unveiled the first train in a new e320 fleet that is expected to go into service late 2015. Designed to reach speeds of up to 320kph (hence the name), the trains will increase seats by 20% from London to Paris, and can run across different signalling systems, opening up potential new routes. Comfort has also been boosted, with brighter, lighter and wider, more spacious cabins, with every seat boasting free WiFi connectivity and power sockets - plus USB ports in Business Class. The cross-Channel operator also announced refurbishments by Italian designers Pininfarina (Ferrari, Maserati) for their existing fleet, to allow customers to travel in style. Passengers will also be able to take advantage of new, year-round direct services to the south of France. Limited Eurostar trains to Avignon’s central station have operated since 2002, running once a week from late June to September. From 1 May 2015, direct trains will whisk travellers from London’s St Pancras International station to Marseille, via Lyon and Avignon, in around six and a half hours (longer for trains heading in the opposite direction as they stop in Lille for immigration checks). Tickets, start from around AU$135 one-way. Book at raileurope.com.
Enjoy breakfast in London then dinner by the Mediterranean in Marseille. Shutterstock
DEUTSCHE BAHN TO CHALLENGE EUROSTAR MONOPOLY Deutsche Bahn is set to challenge Eurostar’s cross-channel monopoly, announcing plans for direct high-speed rail services from London to both Amsterdam and Frankfurt. Eurostar has previously advised it will run direct services between London and the Dutch capital by the end of 2016. From December 2016, the German national rail company hopes to run its Intercity Express (ICE) bullet-trains from London’s St Pancras International station to Brussels, where the 16-carriage trains will split, with half continuing to Amsterdam via Rotterdam and the other half heading to Frankfurt via Cologne. The high-speed train, which can also reach 320kph, will run three times a day in each direction, cutting travel times from London to Amsterdam to just four hours, and reach Frankfurt in less than five hours. The competition could also mean lower fares for cross-channel passengers with a one-way trip to Germany from less than £50.
YHA GETAWAYS
DEALS
YHA DEALS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
STRADDIE RAFT ‘N’ SNORKEL
WAIHEKE ISLAND PEDAL ADVENTURE
Enjoy Stradbroke Island’s colourful marine life up close. Keep your eye out for turtles and tropical reef fish above and below the water. Manta Lodge YHA is offering:
Explore beautiful Waiheke Island in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf. From scenic ferry transport, exhilarating ziplines and walks through native forest, to a cruisy island bike ride and tour of the island’s golden beaches and wineries, this package includes it all.
2 nights’ multi-share accommodation u Half day ocean rafting and snorkelling tour including equipment u Return water taxi tickets from Cleveland (near Brisbane) to North Stradbroke Island
2 nights at YHA Auckland International u Full day bike hire u 3 unique, 200m ziplines u Mini tour of Waiheke’s beaches, olive groves and vineyards u 30 minute guided forest walk u Return ferry transport from Auckland CBD
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Priced from AU$160 per person multishare. Valid to 31 March 2015.
Priced from NZ$260 per person multi-share. Exclusive to YHA members. Advance bookings essential. Valid to 31 October 2015.
MANTA LODGE YHA
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YHA AUCKLAND INTERNATIONAL
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+61 7 3409 8888
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+64 9 302 8200
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stradbrokeisland@yha.com.au
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auckland@yha.co.nz
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MURWILLUMBAH MINI BREAKS Make the most of a stay in New South Wales’ beautiful northern hinterland with these packages from Murwillumbah YHA. Enjoy kayaking or standup paddleboarding. Cycle around this charming town and past sugar cane fields and rolling farmland, or get some culture at the outstanding Tweed Regional Art Gallery. The more energetic can ascend the rainforest track to Mount Warning, the Southern Hemisphere’s largest extinct volcano shell. And let's not forget free ice cream served every night at 9pm. Choose from: Murwillumbah Cruise 'n' Culture u u u u
3 nights' shared or private accommodation Rainforest river cruise including seafood platter and drinks Use of kayaks during cruise Murwillumbah sightseeing tour including Tweed Regional Art Gallery Jimi Richardson
Priced from AU$201 per person multi-share or $429 twin/double room (2 people). Valid to 30 April 2015. 2-Day Bike and Hike u u
2 nights' multi-share accommodation Free geared bike hire to Mount Warning
Priced from AU$65.50 per person. Valid to 31 March 2015. Murwillumbah Adventure Package u u u u u
3 nights' shared or private accommodation 1 hour guided kayak tour at Tumbulgum Standup paddleboard hire at Cabarita Beach Return transfers to start of Mt Warning walk Murwillumbah sightseeing tour including Tweed Regional Art Gallery
Priced from AU$211.50 per person multi-share or $439.50 twin/ double room (2 people). Valid to 30 April 2015.
MURWILLUMBAH YHA
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+61 2 6672 3763
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murwillumbah@yha.com.au
PHILLIP ISLAND STAY 4 PAY 3 Stay 3 nights and get your 4th night free at Phillip Island YHA! Home to the famous nightly parade of Little Penguins, rugged coastlines, surf beaches, Koala Conservation Centre, and plenty of events, Phillip Island is packed with activities, attractions and adventures to keep you busy for days. Package includes: u u u
4 nights for the price of 3 Free WiFi voucher Free admission to Islantis Surf Experience
Priced from AU$94.50 per person – save at least $31.50. Valid for all room types, for stays 10 February – 1 October 2015 (excludes 20-23 February and 3-7 April).
PHILLIP ISLAND YHA u
+61 3 5956 6123
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phillipisland@yha.com.au
BOOK NOW
Shutterstock
NORTHLAND ISLAND EXPLORER Enjoy the best of New Zealand’s Bay of Islands coastal paradise. Hop aboard the Island Adventurer to cruise to pristine islands (including a native bird sanctuary) with white sand beaches, perfect for soaking up views of the bays and beyond. Walk through coastal scenery and take to the warm water for a swim: u 2 nights’ multi-share ensuite accommodation at YHA Bay of Islands Paihia u Full day Bay of Islands tour. Depart/return from Paihia
PORT ELLIOT SURF PACKAGE Ever wanted to learn to surf? This getaway will help you master the waves and still give you plenty of spare time to practice your new skills on the sunny South Coast beaches of the Fleurieu Peninsula, before chilling out at boutique Port Elliot YHA. Package includes:
McLennan Intercity
Priced from NZ$121.50 per person multi-share. Exclusive to YHA members. Valid to 6 April 2015.
2 nights in a 6-share room at Port Elliot YHA (upgrades available) u 2 fun surf lessons with local pros Surf & Sun u Transfers between YHA and surf lessons location u Optional extra: add return coach transport ex Adelaide for just $22! u
Priced from AU$166 per person multi-share. Conditions apply. Valid to 31 March 2015.
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PORT ELLIOT BEACH HOUSE YHA
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YHA BAY OF ISLANDS PAIHIA
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+61 8 8554 1885
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+64 9 402 7487
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portelliot@yha.com.au
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bayofislands.paihia@yha.co.nz
FRASER ISLAND ESCAPE FROM NOOSA Travel from Noosa to the World Heritage listed Fraser Island on this fun-filled 4WD tour. Explore the magnificent natural landscapes including the golden dunes and Seventy Five Mile Beach, enjoy a guided rainforest walk, stop for an Aussie BBQ lunch, and take a swim in either Lake McKenzie or Lake Birrabeen. Package includes: u Morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea u 2 nights’ multi-share accommodation at Noosa’s Halse Lodge YHA u $10 internet voucher u Full day Fraser Island 4WD tour from Noosa u National Park fees
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HALSE LODGE GUESTHOUSE YHA u
+61 7 5447 3377
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noosaheads@yha.com.au
The Discovery Group
Priced at AU$166 per person multi-share. Departs daily. Valid to 31 March 2015.
HUNTER VALLEY HOTLIST Make the most of a visit to the granddaddy of NSW wine regions with these special deals staying at Hunter Valley YHA. Leave the driving to someone else so you can fully enjoy the scenery, sippings and socialising, explore by pedal power, or mix wineries with wildlife. Choose from three great-value deals: Hunter Valley Grape Escape u 2 nights' accommodation at Hunter Valley YHA u Full day wine tour visiting at least 6 wineries and other also local delights (e.g. olives, cheese, chocolate) Priced from AU$115 per person multi-share and from $257 per twin/ double room. Valid to 30 April 2015. Australian Wildlife Experience u 2 nights' accommodation at Hunter Valley YHA u Bike hire u Entry to Hunter Valley Zoo Priced from AU$85 per person multi-share and from $197 per twin/ double room. Please note: Zoo closed Wednesdays. Valid to 30 April 2015. Family Wildlife Experience u 2 nights' accommodation at Hunter Valley YHA u Entry to Hunter Valley Zoo
BOOK NOW
HUNTER VALLEY YHA u
+61 2 4991 3278
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huntervalley@yha.com.au
Shane Lennard
Priced from AU$299 for a 4-bed family room and zoo passes for 2 adults and 2 children (age 3-15). Please note: Zoo closed Wednesdays. Valid to 30 April 2015.
BLUE MOUNTAINS ADVENTURE DEALS Do something different and see an amazing side of the Blue Mountains on a two night adventure package which includes a full day canyoning trip taking you through amazing waterfalls and streams. Package includes: u u
2 nights' multi-share accommodation Breakfast Full day canyoning tour including lunch
From $229 per person, until 31 March 2015.
BOOK NOW
BLUE MOUNTAINS YHA u
+61 2 4782 1416
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bluemountains@yha.com.au
Blue Mountains Tourism
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The Grampians National Park is made for mini breaks. Get off the beaten track and let loose on a rock climbing or 4WD adventure, tackle some of the country’s great walks, meet the wildlife, and sample local wines. Now you have no excuse not to bring a mate or two as the YHA is offering a great deal on a 4-bed room. Pay from just $85.50 per night for the entire room – whether there are 2, 3, or 4 people – and you have exclusive use of the room. Valid to 2 April 2015 (except 13-16 February and 6-9 March).
Shutterstock
GRAMPIANS BRING A BUDDY DEAL
LANCELIN & PINNACLES EXPLORER Perth makes a great base to see some of Australia’s great natural wonders. This convenient 4WD day trip gives you a taste of some of the best of the West, including the mysterious limestone spires of the Pinnacles desert, and all the 4WD and sand boarding action of Lancelin’s giant dunes. Priced at $194 per person, including yummy buffet lunch, afternoon tea, and wildlife park entry. Departs Perth daily at 8am. Valid to 31 March 2015. Of course, one day can’t really do justice to this beautiful part of the world, so why not explore at a more relaxed pace, with a stay at Lancelin Lodge YHA?
GRAMPIANS ECO YHA
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PERTH CITY YHA
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+61 3 5356 4544
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+61 8 9287 3333
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grampians@yha.com.au
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perthcity@yha.com.au
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NEW ZEALAND BUS & BED
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Globe Less Traveled
Getting from A to B and beyond on your New Zealand adventure has never been so easy. Sit back and enjoy the views with this road-worthy deal that bundles InterCity’s flexi bus passes with accommodation in the YHAs of your choice. Pre-book your whole itinerary (service fee applies) or book as you go. Package includes: 5 - 20 night multi-share accommodation vouchers redeemable at any New Zealand YHA 20 - 60 hours of travel on the InterCity FlexiPass® bus network (top it up as you go)
Priced from NZ$329 per person (based on 20 hour FlexiPass/5 nights multi-share accommodation). Find the accommodation and bus pass match that works for your stay. Conditions apply. Valid to 30 September 2015.
Choose from 40+ YHAs across New Zealand’s North and South Islands. yha.co.nz
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FEATURE / NEW ZEALAND
TE ANAU not a one-night stand u
FROM BUSH TO BIRDLIFE AND GLOWWORMS TO PHOTOGENIC MOUNTAINS, DAVID WHITLEY DISCOVERS THAT TE ANAU DESERVES MORE THAN A ONE-NIGHT STAND.
On the Kepler Track. S Hall
Still waters on Lake Te Anau. Aaron Joyce
NEWS
IT DOESN’T
take long to go from civilisation
to wilderness. The water taxi takes just a few minutes to cross Lake Te Anau, the graceful, glacier-carved giant that acts as a border between modern New Zealand and ancient Gondwana.
It docks at Brod Bay where beech forest comes to the water’s edge and mountains rise up behind. The odd walking track passes through, but this is the Fiordland National Park. Roads have been left behind on the other side of the lake. If ever there’s an argument for never building a tunnel (or gondola, or monorail) to slash the journey time from Queenstown to Milford Sound, this is it. The current, roundabout route makes Te Anau, halfway between, a much better starting point for exploring Milford.
ENTER NOW! Win a Fiordland Great Walks Getaway and come see the region on us! The prize for two includes: u 2 nights pre and post walk YHA accommodation u Your choice of hut passes for either the Kepler, Routeburn or Milford Track Tap to enter
A blissful stroll around the southern reaches of the lake indicates why using Te Anau as a mere hopping-off point is a mistake. It’s approximately 12km from Brod Bay to the town centre on foot, with the track weaving between dense, bird-filled native woodland and cute little covelets. Beech trees slowly give way to crown ferns, then starker sections where creek courses have shifted over time. Once out of the National Park and skirting the lake’s southern fringe, the photogenic mountain backdrop takes precedence until the track passes the Te Anau Wildlife Centre. Run by the Department of Conservation, it’s home to a few native birds. The kea and morepork raise a smile, but it’s seeing the big, secateur-like orange beak of a species thought to be extinct for 50 years that brings on the double-take. Even with habitat protection and offshore breeding programmes, there are thought to be fewer than 300 takahe left. And that’s far better than once feared. At the end of the 19th century, they were thought to have died out – but they were rediscovered again in 1948, tucked away in the remote Murchison Mountains.
NEWS
Those mountains are inside the Fiordland National Park. Beneath them, by the shore, is the home of a somewhat less cute creature. New Zealand glowworms sound delightful but they’re really gnat larvae and they use the light they generate to attract unwitting flies and bugs to their death. S i n ce 1 9 4 8 , w h e n t h e g low wo r m ca ve s we re rediscovered independently of the takahe, these larvae have also attracted human beings. The Real Journeys trip to the caves (See end of story for an exclusive YHA deal) begins with a catamaran cruise across Lake Te Anau and then gets considerably weirder. The subterranean adventure only pokes a tiny way into a much larger cave system, but taller explorers have to duck down beneath low arches and sensitive lighting shows the layers of limestone and sandstone that make up the base of the enormous mountains above. Cleverly erected boardwalks and scaffolding lead through the caves, often as water gushes beneath in an uncompromising underground torrent. It all leads to a waterfall which thunders down – and that waterfall has to be stepped around on the way to a very basic, tiny tin boat. That tin vessel is how we’ll journey inside. But the lights are turned off, and we’re sworn to silence. The dark doesn’t last long, as the glowworms begin to compensate. Clustered in constellation-like pockets, it’s like drifting along a calm ocean under the night sky. The quiet adds an extra dimension; a sprinkling of magic and transportation to somewhere far, far away. What we can’t see are the dangling thread-like lines that the glowworms use to catch their prey. That’s probably for the best – some things are best kept as a mystery. Te Anau, however, is not one of them.
MORE TE ANAU MUST-DO’S
1 2 3 4
Visit Doubtful Sound, the second largest fiord in Fiordland National Park and a vast, untouched wilderness See Fiordland from the skies on a scenic flight for views millions-of-years-in-the-making Get the adrenaline pumping: try scuba diving, quad biking, jet boating or horseback riding
Watch the film Ata Whenua – Shadowland, a thirty minute scenic viewing of Fiordland, at Te Anau’s boutique movie theatre
Discovering local wildlife: The Takahe, with its secateur-like orange beak (top), and the subterranean world of the glowworm caves (bottom). L Keegan, Real Journeys
NEWS
The Chasm Milford Road Pat Wall
THE MILFORD ROAD A key advantage of going to Milford Sound from Te Anau rather than Queenstown is that the shorter journey – a two hour drive rather than four – buys more time to explore the Milford Road. There are plenty of spots worth pulling over for, and for different reasons. Te Anau Downs is surprisingly strong on history. Signs tell of Quintin McKinnon, the man whose explorations forged the Milford Track and Richard Henry, the wildlife conservationist who pioneered the concept of offshore island sanctuaries at Resolution Island in Dusky Sound. Further along, the Eglinton Valley lookout offers superlative views of the broad valley flanked by mountains, and the Mirror Lakes are a good place for spotting long-finned eels. Leg-stretchers can pull over at The Divide, and take on the three hour return hike to Key Summit – part of the Routeburn Track and a spectacularly privileged position for taking in the mountain scenery. After that, the descent towards Milford Sound passes through the granite-hewn Homer Tunnel and passes by The Chasm – one of the country’s most photogenic waterfalls. It’s especially worth getting out for the 20 minute walk if it has been raining – you’ll get wet, but the falls will be pounding.
Kepler Track Fiordland. Rob Suisted
THE GREAT WALKS A lakeside stroll is perfectly agreeable exercise, but for those wanting to give their walking boots a proper workout, Te Anau has the privilege of being the logical jumping-off point for three of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks. The 53.5km Milford Track starts at the end of the lake – usually accessed by boat transfer from Te Anau Downs – while The Divide on the Milford Road is the western trailhead for the 32km Routeburn Track. The Great Walks website offers the most comprehensive guide to the Great Walks. Of the three, the Kepler Track has two key things in its favour. The first is that it is a circular walk, meaning the logistics are much simpler. The second is that it starts within easy walking distance of a major settlement. The usual starting point is the DOC control gates, where Lake Te Anau flows into the Waiau River. And that’s about 3km away from the centre of Te Anau – meaning it’s just an hour’s walk added on to either end of the circuit for those not wanting the faff or expense of organising transport. Generally tackled over three to four days (although run in around five hours by the truly fit/ masochistic), the 60km Kepler Track ascends from lakeside beech forest to exposed Alpine ridges. It’s generally regarded as being on the moderate end of the scale, with especially well maintained tracks.
WHERE TO STAY
TE ANAU SHIMMERS UNDERGROUND
YHA TE ANAU
Jump on board and be sworn to silence as you cruise across Lake Te Anau and into the underground world of glowworms. Discover a twisting network of limestone passages filled with sculpted rock, whirlpools and a roaring underground waterfall before drifting beneath the luminous shimmer of thousands of glowworms.
+64 3 249 7847 u teanau@yha.co.nz u yha.co.nz u
DEAL
Package includes: u 2 nights at YHA Te Anau u 2 hour 15 minute day or night cruise with Real Journeys that includes a cruise across Lake Te Anau and a 40 minute glowworm cave tour Priced from $126.50 p.p. in a 4 share for YHA members. $133.90 p.p. in a 4 share for non-members. Valid to 8 April 2015. Private room options also available.
Mountains rise from the sea, Milford Sound. Adam Bryce
NEW ZEALAND TE ANAU
SOUTH ISLAND
CHRISTCHURCH
MILFORD SOUND LAKE TE ANAU QUEENSTOWN
FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK
FEATURE / MELBOURNE
MELBOURNE l a c o l ea Shutterstock
lik
THE VERY BEST OF MELBOURNE IS ACCESSIBLE TO EVERYONE, YOU JUST HAVE TO LOOK IN THE RIGHT PLACES WRITES JO STEWART.
probably knows the feeling of arriving in a new city and feeling like they’re missing out on all the action. It seems like the locals know where all the sweet spots are, while visitors get suckered into visiting the costly and overrated tourist traps. Luckily, the very best of Melbourne is accessible to everyone, you just have to look in the right places.
EVERYTRAVELLER THE GREAT ENTERTAINER
From punk to grunge and everything in between at St Kilda's Espy Hotel. Tourism Victoria
With an enduring arts and culture scene, your entertainment doesn’t need to be a drain on your bank account. Sure, tickets to some of the hottest gigs and stadium shows may be as rare as hen’s teeth (and as costly as a flight to somewhere tropical), but there are plenty of ways to have fun that won’t break the bank. Melbourne’s live music scene is going from strength to strength thanks to liberal laws and a strong contingent of musicians who are dedicated to playing all year round, so it’s feasible to catch a gig every night of the week, even on a Monday night. From Saturday night rock at Fitzroy’s Rainbow Hotel to Sunday acoustic sessions at Carlton’s Dan O’Connell Hotel and everything from punk to grunge and psych rock at St Kilda’s legendary Espy Hotel, free music isn’t hard to find in Melbourne town.
As a UNESCO City of Literature, Melbourne prides itself on being a little bookish. With a high ratio of second hand book dealers and independent book stores, this is a city to embrace the glory of the written word. If you’re on a budget, head to Melbourne Central’s Little Library, a small haven of literature hidden in one of Melbourne’s largest shopping malls. Filled with used books and magazines, this little space encourages everyone to simply take, swap, borrow or pass on a tome. The good news is that there’s a high turnover of books, so it’s not all dusty romance novels here, but a solid collection of genuinely readable novels. If movies are more your thing, then you’d be shocked at the rising cost of catching a flick. With a slant towards showing Arthouse and independent films, Carlton’s Cinema Nova is a stalwart of the cinema scene and every Monday all tickets are $6 before 4pm. Head here early to nab your tickets, as the austerity-approved entry cost draws quite a crowd.
There's an eclectic range of books on offer at The Little Library (top and main), catch an arthouse film at Carlton's Cinema Nova (left and right). Jo Stewart
The city’s laneways are awash with street art. YHA
LOSE YOURSELF One of the best ways to get a feel for a city is on the ground level, so hit the pavements of Melbourne to get in time with the city beat. As one of Australia’s most cycle-friendly cities, Melbourne is the perfect place to pedal about. Wide streets, dedicated bike lanes, flat terrain and a nifty bike sharing system ensures that even novice cyclists can get about on a bike. Hire a bike from one of Melbourne’s bike sharing hubs located all over the CBD and inner suburbs and cycle along the Yarra Trail for fresh air and good vibes, or follow the bike lane up to Carlton’s Melbourne Museum for an insight into local, Australian history. The Melbourne Gallery at the museum is home to everything from champion racehorse Phar Lap’s blanket to an antique urinal that dates back to the 1800s. If walking is more your thing, take yourself on a choose-your-ownadventure style street art tour. Hosier Lane, AC/DC Lane and Union Lane are your best bets in the CBD, while the backstreets of the north side ‘hoods of Fitzroy, Collingwood, East Brunswick and Abbotsford are home to some of Melbourne’s most iconic murals and stencils. Hopping on a tram is a Melbourne rite of passage and with a newly designated section of Melbourne’s CBD being declared as a ‘free ride zone’, a trip won’t cost you a thing (as long as you stay within the boundaries of the free section).
Union Lane street art. Jo Stewart
FIVE OF MELBOURNE’S BEST CHEAP FEEDS
URBAN FLAVOURS Thanks to the influence of Melbourne’s multicultural population and explosion of forward-thinking restaurateurs, Melbourne has everything from highend dining to food trucks covered. An essential element that is often overlooked is the wealth of food producers and providores in the region. A trip to the Queen Victoria Market (conveniently round the corner from Melbourne Metro YHA will remedy this by revealing artisan cheeses, sickly sweet waffles, Dutch pancakes, rare breed deli meats, and some of the best Bratwurst this side of Bavaria. Many stallholders are happy to offer free tastings, so get amongst the free sample action, then stock up on your favourites for a picnic in Flagstaff Gardens. It’s all just part of experiencing Melbourne like Melburnians do. Enjoying a pit stop in a Degraves Street cafe (above), spoilt for choice at Queen Victoria Market (left and main). Tourism Victoria, YHA.
LENTIL AS ANYTHING With locations in Abbotsford, Preston, St Kilda and Footscray, this Melbourne institution cranks out vego fare with a ‘pay whatever you like’ price tag. DON DON This little gem pumps out Japanese fare at warp speed for hundreds of Melburnians each day. You can get your fill for less than a tenner. u 198 Little Lonsdale Street,
Melbourne u Ph: (03) 9670 7113 BIMBO DELUXE At Bimbo’s you’ll find $4 pizzas from 12pm - 4pm Monday – Friday and all day Sunday, as well as craft ales and a Moroccan-themed rooftop chill out area. u Corner Brunswick Street
& Rose Street, Fitzroy u Ph: (03) 9419 8600 OM VEGETARIAN Head here for all-you-can-eat Indian fare (curries, naan and rice) for the grand sum of $6.50. u Ph: (03) 9917 2889 PHO BO GA MEKONG VIETNAM Pop into this super busy bastion of Vietnamese fare for a steaming bowl of low-cost pho. u 241 Swanston Street, Melbourne u Ph: (03) 9663 3288
The Victorian State Library lit up for White Night.
FREE EVENTS FOR FRUGAL TRAVELLERS
Shutterstock
1 2 3 4 WHITE NIGHT 21 February: 7pm-7am Don’t miss the one night of the year that Melbourne stays up all night long to worship art in all its forms. Expect projection art, dance, light shows, installations, art talks and more.
BOOK NOW WHERE TO STAY MELBOURNE CENTRAL YHA u (+613) 9621 2523 u melbcentral@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
MELBOURNE METRO YHA u (+613) 9329 8599 u melbmetro@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
Sidney Myer Music Bowl free concerts.
FREE EVENTS FOR FRUGAL TRAVELLERS
MSO
1 2 3 4 MELBOURNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA SIDNEY MYER FREE CONCERTS 14 February, 18 February, 21 February: From 7pm Grab a picnic blanket and some market supplies and take in the sublime sounds of the MSO in this free series of concerts.
WHERE TO STAY MELBOURNE CENTRAL YHA u (+613) 9621 2523 u melbcentral@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
MELBOURNE METRO YHA u (+613) 9329 8599 u melbmetro@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
BOOK NOW
Federation Square.
FREE EVENTS FOR FRUGAL TRAVELLERS
Tourism Victoria
1 2 3 4 FEDERATION SQUARE EVENTS Ongoing From Friday night salsa dancing to lunchtime yoga classes, early morning Tai Chi and afternoon Zumba sessions, the Federation Square Forecourt hosts a range of free events designed to get you moving.
WHERE TO STAY MELBOURNE CENTRAL YHA u (+613) 9621 2523 u melbcentral@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
MELBOURNE METRO YHA u (+613) 9329 8599 u melbmetro@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
BOOK NOW
FREE EVENTS FOR FRUGAL TRAVELLERS
1 2 3 4 MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL 25 March – 19 April In honour of the Melbourne International Comedy Festival, Richmond bar Station 59 runs free comedy and open mic nights for four weeks of funny mayhem.
BOOK NOW WHERE TO STAY MELBOURNE CENTRAL YHA u (+613) 9621 2523 u melbcentral@yha.com.au
Jim Lee Photography
u yha.com.au
MELBOURNE METRO YHA u (+613) 9329 8599 u melbmetro@yha.com.au u yha.com.au
FEATURE / AUSTRALIA
S T PO R ! Y AHO
NO LESS THAN SIX YHA HOSTELS HAVE PORT IN THEIR NAME, HUG THE AUSTRALIAN COASTLINE AND OFFER A GREAT INSIGHT INTO THE COUNTRY’S BEACH AND MARITIME CULTURE. JANET MCGARRY HAS BEEN LUCKY ENOUGH TO VISIT THEM ALL.
Jumping in at Port Stephens. Port Stephens Tourism
THE EARLY COLONIAL
explorers of Australia showed a distinct lack of imagination when it came to the names they bestowed on their discoveries. British royalty, peers and politicians were a frequent choice, whilst geographic features got many an outing. There is one dominant coastal name though and that is Port. Never one to buck a trend, YHA has no less than six hostels in its Australian network in a Port location – so join us on this tour:
PORT LINCOLN
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
‘SCALLOPS. YOU NEED to try the scallops’. With those words from Robert, the owner of Port Lincoln YHA, ringing in our ears, we ambled down the main street. Port Lincoln has a pleasant frontage, bordered by towering Norfolk Pines and a row of shops that most seaside Australian towns seem to specialise in. But, there amongst them, was a café with some of the best scallops you’ll ever taste. I fought back the thought that the previous day they were probably living a watery life. The sauce and flavour was just too good. Port Lincoln sneaks up on you with pleasures you didn’t expect. Most people are drawn to this small town on the southern-most tip of the Eyre Peninsula in South Australia by the lure of shark-cage diving as it’s one of a few spots in the world to offer this. But Port Lincoln is far from being a one-horse town. Built on the back of a very successful fishing fleet (think tuna – and of course those scallops), Port Lincoln has a rolling rural backdrop and azure blue coastal views. And you need to get out to sea. Even if eye-balling sharks are not your thing, there are other options. The Swimming with Tuna trip is family friendly, but the pick for me was the Swim with Sea Lions half day trip. I’ll confess I’m a sucker for a pretty face, and those elegantly sleek bodies, button eyes and twitching whiskers are a great package. A mere 90 minutes cruising from town, and you jump into the shallow water of a sheltered bay to snorkel, play and frolic with the locals. It’s an experience hard to beat (and luckily, not a shark in sight!).
Shark cage diving (above), Eyre Peninsula coastal landscape (bottom). SATC
PORT FAIRY
VICTORIA
THERE ARE TIMES on every trip when you just need to chill. Travelling west from Melbourne along the Great Ocean Road, it is tempting to turn back after the many splendours of the Twelve Apostles. Resist that temptation! Scoot through Warnambool as quick as you can, and instead head straight to the little fishing town of Port Fairy, which is a great destination in itself or makes the perfect stop off point en route through to South Australia and Adelaide. Port Fairy is one of those towns that just feel right. Set prettily on the banks of the river Moyne as it spills out to sea, the large fishing fleet promises seafood dinners, whilst the strong cafÊ culture delivers excellent coffee. This historic town is great for wandering, with sandstone buildings and interesting shops to explore. There’s surf beaches, boat cruises, and nearby national parks to investigate. But first and foremost, this is a place to wind down in.
The pretty harbour of Port Fairy. shutterstock
Clockwise from top: Powder white sand and crystal clear waters; dolphins frolic in the protected waterways; four-wheel driving the Stockton Sand Dunes. Port Stephens Tourism, Legendary Pacific Coast, Shutterstock
PORT STEPHENS NSW
THANKS TO A too-successful tourism campaign with the cheesy tagline ‘PS I love you’, Port Stephens has been discovered by many locals and travellers alike. They’ve found out about the kilometres of sea beaches to wander, national park tracks to walk and views to take in. Where you can swim in summer, and whale watch in winter, and you are still only a couple of hours from Sydney. But you can escape the bustle of this popular town by relaxing at the YHA. It’s an oasis of tropical surrounds and bush that can be your slice of paradise. Snugly located in Anna Bay, you can wander down to the sea, spot a koala or two, relax by the pool or cook up a storm in the bush kitchen. Close by are all the water sports to take your fancy, and few go past a cruise out to spot dolphins and whales (in season) and to take in the view of Mt Tomaree which dominates the bay.
THINK PORT DOUGLAS and many Australians recall Christopher Skase, who came, built and departed. These were the glory days of the 1980s and there are still elements in town that hark back to this time. But after a few lean years, Port Douglas is on the resurgence and not before time either. This is the ultimate tropical getaway where you can combine amenities like excellent cafes, restaurants and shops, with access to everything the Great Barrier Reef has to offer. And you are on the doorstep of Mossman Gorge, the Daintree River and Cape Tribulation. Port Douglas is a terrific hub for a Tropical North Queensland experience. A few days here offers a great combination of lazy days on Four Mile Beach (best Aussie beach for cycling along, in my humble opinion) with busy days out – lots of choices for trips to both the inner and outer reef, sunset cruises and diving trips. But keep time aside for Cape Tribulation. Crossing the Daintree still brings you to another world – of spectacular rainforest that is a world away from modern life.
The palm-fringed One Mile Beach, Port Douglas. shutterstock
PORT DOUGLAS
QUEENSLAND
The turquoise waters of Horseshoe Bay; McLaren Vale’s vineyards are within cooee of Port Elliot, canoeing the Coorong. SATC, shutterstock
PORT ELLIOT
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
EVERY TRIP HAS a moment when it’s time to just retire to a comfy chair with a glass of wine and a good book. An excellent view and a local vintage isn’t always available though, but Port Elliot easily delivers. The YHA sits proudly on a rise, a dominant historic building that faces out across Horseshoe Bay. Turn right out of the front door and you can wander along the coastal walking path skirting beaches and rocky viewing points. Turn left and it’s a short stroll to the main street and many historic buildings. This town has long been the secret weekend spot of Adelaideans – an easy drive south through rolling rural scenery, past the vineyards of McLaren Vale. True travellers though will know that Port Elliot is but a jump from the glory of the Coorong. An unspoilt wilderness of wetlands, lakes and beaches and home to a vast array of birdlife, the Coorong is largely undiscovered. Do yourself a favour – canoe or cruise its waters, walk the beaches, marvel at its serenity. There is nowhere else in Australia quite like it.
PORT MACQUARIE NSW
THERE IS NO more recognisable symbol of Australia than the little furry face of a koala, and few can resist their charm. Most visitors get up close experience to them at a zoo or wildlife park as they can be hard to spot in the wild. But if you are travelling between Sydney and Brisbane, the Koala Hospital at Port Macquarie should be on your visit list. Open daily, this is not primarily a tourist attraction (though very popular with visitors) but a leading organisation for the protection of Australia’s rapidly shrinking koala population. Marsupial time over, Port Macquarie is a substantial town which is great for those who want all the facilities it has to offer with the backdrop of sparkling beaches, great surf and coastal views. And the lure of the YHA is that it is one of those places where people plan to spend a night, and end up staying days. Super relaxed, it’s a great spot to refresh your travelling batteries.
WHERE TO STAY These are six vastly different YHAs and that is part of their charm. From the tropical lushness of Port Douglas located a stroll from sumptuous Four Mile Beach, to the Bali-feel of Port Stephens, where koala spotting is obligatory. Port Fairy is the spot to relax and enjoy the café culture after touring the
Great Ocean Road, whilst Port Elliot is a stylish escape with one of the best YHA views from its upper balcony. You can’t escape sharks in Port Lincoln at this exceptional YHA whilst the most photographed hostel pet award definitely goes to Cheeky, Port Macquarie’s resident lorikeet.
Book all these YHAs online at yha.com.au
Port Macquarie lighthouse (top), Koala Hospital (above).
BOOK NOW
AUSTRALIAN PORTS
CAIRNS
PORT DOUGLAS
AUSTRALIA BRISBANE
PORT MACQUARIE PORT STEPHENS SYDNEY
ADELAIDE
PORT LINCOLN
PORT ELLIOT MELBOURNE
PORT FAIRY AUSTRALIA
FEATURE / WAR TOURISM
BATTLEFIELD TRIPS
iStock
WAR HAS MADE ITS MARK ON THE WORLD LANDSCAPE. VISITING THESE SITES CAN BE A VIRTUAL HISTORY LESSON. WRITES SHANEY HUDSON.
of Australia and New Zealand’s involvement in World War One looms, the focus will be on Gallipoli and Anzac Day celebrations. However, there are many other places of pilgrimage worth considering; places that not only offer a deeper understanding of history, but a chance for quiet contemplation and reflection on the cost of war.
AS THE CENTENARY
A WARNING TO ALL
Auschwitz Birkenau, Poland More than 1.1 million people lost their lives in the Auschwitz-Birkenau camps between 1942 and January 1945. Visiting the site is humbling and heartbreaking, yet it remains a place many feel compelled to visit; perhaps because it is an important reminder of the danger of evil left unchecked, but also of what must never happen again. Two sites are open to the public; Auschwitz-1, where a number of buildings remain intact, and the largely destroyed, yet incredibly eerie AuschwitzBirkenhau.
THOSE WHO WILL NEVER FORGET
Ypres, Belgium Every night in the small town of Ypres, volunteers gather at the Menin Gate to play the Last Post, a solemn tribute to the 54,389 soldiers with no marked grave who died here during the Great War. Remarkably, this ritual has taken place every evening since 1927, a record only broken by German occupation during World War Two. Ypres and the surrounding area, Flanders, is central to a number of events taking place between now and 2018 to commemorate the 100th Anniversary of the Great War. Auschwitz Birkenau (top and bottom), Menin Gate memorial wall, Ypres (above). Shutterstock.
THROUGH THE EYES OF THE YOUNG
Anne Frank House, The Netherlands For many young people, Anne Frank remains the eyes through which they first experienced war. Hiding in a secret annexe with her family and four others during the German occupation of Holland, the diary Anne kept was published after her death and became a global phenomenon. Today Anne Frank House is Amsterdam’s most visited attraction: people wait in line for hours to walk through the office, and climb up behind the swinging bookcase to see the cramped living quarters where Anne hid, dreaming of life after the war.
FOR MANY... ANNE FRANK REMAINS THE EYES THROUGH WHICH THEY FIRST EXPERIENCED WAR.
KNOWING MY FATE IS TO BE WITH YOU Waterloo, Belgium 2015 marks the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo, where two decades of fighting between European powers finally boiled over. The allied armies of Britain, The Netherlands and Prussia came together to fight the French, successfully defeating Napoleon and driving back the French Army at a cost of 50,000 causalities. Today, the Waterloo memorial is reasonably modest: a 40-metre high mound with a lion monument on top marks the spot where the battle raged, and there are two museums on site.
View over Amsterdam showing Anne Frank house in the foreground (top), Anne Frank statue (main), Waterloo memorial complex, Belgium (bottom). Shutterstock
THE LABOUR OF WAR
Hellfire Pass, Thailand In the tropical heat of the Thai jungle, over 60,000 allied POWs and 270,000 Asian slaves were forced to work on the Thai-Burma Railway. One of the most treacherous sections was Konyu Cutting, better known as Hellfire Pass. Here, POWs were forced to work 18-hour-days to cut through a 500-metre long section of rock over 25-metres deep, a cruel undertaking that resulted in over 700 deaths. Abandoned and overgrown with jungle, in the 1980s it was cleared and has now become an important pilgrimage spot for Australians, with a memorial museum run by the Australian Government located above the site.
WAR ON OUR DOORSTEP
Darwin, Australia The bombing of Darwin by Japan in February 1942 shook wartime Australia to its core. Although originally downplayed by government and media, 243 people were killed and the town was heavily damaged during what was to be the first of more than 60 devastating air raids that took place. Today, the war sites are scattered throughout Darwin and include the underground war oil storage bunkers under the city and the military bunker under the East Point Military Museum, both open to the public.
Thai Burma railway, Hellfire pass (top and bottom). Shutterstock
Darwin Military Museum Jo Stewart
Gettysburg memorials (top and middle), Battle Abbey, Hastings (bottom). Shutterstock
OVER 400 COSTUMED ACTORS TAKE PART... RIDING HORSES AND RECREATING THE EPIC BATTLE THAT TOOK PLACE THE INSPIRATION FOR A NATION
Gettysburg, United States of America Gettysburg is known not only for the decisive Civil War battle that took place in 1863, but also as the place where Abraham Lincoln gave his iconic 272-word address that inspired a nation brought to its knees by civil war. Gettysburg National Military Park covers 6,000 acres of preserved battleground and contains over 1,300 monuments, cemeteries and memorials, but is most famous for its Civil War re-enactments, held during the summertime. Book ahead to secure tickets.
IN HISTORY’S FOOTSTEPS
Battle of Hastings, United Kingdom The Battle of Hastings took place in 1066 but each October, weather permitting, a dedicated hoard of re-enactment enthusiasts come together to recreate the battle between the defending AngloSaxon troops of King Harold and the invading Norman-French. Over 400 costumed actors take part in the re-enactment, setting up medieval-style tented camps, riding horses and recreating the epic battle that took place, while visitors can try their hand at blacksmithing, falconry and archery in the adjacent area. At other times, you can still walk the battlefield and visit the nearby Abbey.
GALLIPOLI 2015 It will be impossible to miss the centenary of the Gallipoli landings as there will be saturation coverage by all media in the weeks leading up to Anzac Day. But if you have not planned ahead, and think this would be a good year to include it in your travel plans, think again. The Australian and NZ governments have run a lottery for the limited spaces available at the Dawn Ceremony at Lone Pine – and demand way exceeded supply. Whilst centenaries are important, more than likely planning a visit in subsequent years will be much less crowded and more meaningful. In the interim, read up all about it on these government websites ◆ Australia
◆ New Zealand
Anzac Cove memorial at Canakkale, Turkey (above), The Australian cemetary at Vallee de la Somme, France (below). Shutterstock
WHERE TO STAY Find the nearest Hostelling International hostel near these sites, and others, at hihostels.com
BOOK NOW
NEVER AGAIN
D Day Beaches, Northern France I was only a teenager but the memory is as vivid now as it was intense at that time, many years ago. For 180 degrees in front of me, from left to right, was perfect green watered lawn with row upon row of white marble crosses in straight alignment and standing only a metre high. It was a gorgeous summer’s day. We were the only visitors and I stood there looking into the distance. Crosses as far as I could see. I was near Colleville-sur-Mere, in Normandy at the US D Day landings cemetery for Omaha Beach. Scene of the fiercest fighting on 8 June, 1944 and the days after, the cemetery is both heart-breaking and inspiring. To an impressionable teenage girl, it became etched in memory. The futility. The loss. This cemetery was the last stop in a two day trip along the Normandy landing sites – the five beachheads the Allied Forces used to launch the offensive that ultimately ended World War Two in Europe. There is debris and militaria still scattered along the coast, along with memorials and museums. But nothing is more memorable than that cemetery of grief. –Janet McGarry
Top to bottom: Cemetary at Omaha beach; memorial; Vierville-sur-Mere, Omaha memorial; Mulberry harbour, Aromanches, Normandy. Shutterstock
Scott13 Shutterstock
WHAT'S ON HERE’S OUR PICK OF EVENTS COMING UP IN YOUR REGION
WHITE NIGHT MELBOURNE 21 February 2015
VI C
From dusk til dawn, Melbourne’s public spaces, laneways, parks and buildings will be transformed into an all-night, free cultural extravaganza. The programme packs plenty of experiences into one night celebrating music, food, film, art, design, fashion and light. From art installations to performances, dance to design and themed social gatherings, there is something for everyone. White Night runs from 7pm Saturday 21 February through to 7am Sunday 22 February 2015. whitenightmelbourne.com.au u
Stay at Melbourne Central YHA
u
Stay at Melbourne Metro YHA
ENLIGHTEN CANBERRA 27 February - 8 March 2015
ACT
The magic of Enlighten returns to Canberra, when the city stays up late, opens the doors to its cultural institutions, and (quite literally) shines a light on its iconic attractions. The capital’s Parliamentary Triangle and museum hub will be transformed into a colourful entertainment precinct with nightly performances from street artists, musical acts, hilarious comedy, dining, art and the dazzling sound and light show projections. New this year, the Enlighten Noodle Markets will create a bustling hawker-style market with authentic Asian eats, gourmet regional food and wine, themed bars and live music. enlightencanberra.com.au
Canberra Special See Enlighten for less with this special that includes 2 nights' accommodation with breakfast, wifi and half a day bike hire. From $98 per person share or $230 twin/ double room.
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Australian Capital Tourism, Neale Cousland Shutterstock
Stay at Canberra City +61 2 6248 9155 canberracity@yha.com.au
WOMAD 6-9 March 2015 - Adelaide 13-15 March 2015 - New Plymouth
Stay at Adelaide Central YHA or check out the new YHA New Plymouth, New Zealand u
SUNDAISE 6-8 March 2015
Sundaise
Tony Lewis
WOMAD (World of Music, Arts and Dance) brings its enthralling mix of world music, dance, visual arts and culturally diverse roving performances to Adelaide and New Plymouth, for a global music festival unlike any you’ve seen before. This year’s line-up includes Buena Vista Social Club, Sinead O’Connor, Youssou N’Dour, Rufus Wainwright, Fourplay, and Neneh Cherry. Don’t forget your dancing shoes. womadelaide.com.au or womad.co.nz.
Z N & A S
NZ
WOMAD isn’t the only festival hitting New Zealand’s scenic shores. Set in a hidden valley on private farmland surrounded by native bush, swimming holes and the crystal clear Waitawheta River, Sundaise offers a programme chocka with over 60 hours of live music, 40 bands and 20 DJ's as well as workshops, art installations, market stalls and more. sundaise.co.nz.
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Stay at YHA Opoutere +64 7 865 9072 opoutere@yha.co.nz
Royal Agricultural Society NSW
SYDNEY ROYAL EASTER SHOW 26 March - 8 April 2015
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N SW
Australia’s largest annual event is back, bringing together 14,000 animals, the biggest carnival in the Southern Hemisphere, and a celebration of our rich culture and agricultural heritage. So gather up your friends and family and come along to Sydney Olympic Park for an action-packed day of thrill rides, amazing performances, award-winning animals, delicious food, wine and cool competitions. eastershow.com.au. Earlybird deal: save 10% on Easter Show tickets & transport
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Stay at Sydney Central YHA or Railway Square YHA
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Fremantle Street Arts Festival
FREMANTLE STREET ARTS FESTIVAL 4-6 April 2015
WA
One of Australia’s biggest street arts festivals returns for the Easter long weekend, bringing together music, stage, screen, circus, cabaret and comedy acts from all over the world. Enjoy world-class street entertainment from local and international artists, and celebrate Australia’s unique busking culture. fremantle.wa.gov.au New Fremantle Prison YHA opening early 2015 Read our news story for more
CRANKWORX ROTORUA 25-29 March 2015
NZ
QLD
The Surfers Paradise Festival is back with a bang in 2015 to dazzle, delight and celebrate the Gold Coast’s music, art, food and culture. See Surfers come alive with the Launch It concert series, the Australian Street Entertainment Championships, the One Way Street Part and the hypnotic pyrotechnics of the Seafire Fireworks Challenge, and so much more. surfersparadisefestival.com
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Stay at YHA Rotorua +64 7 349 4088 rotorua@yha.co.nz
Tourism and Events QLD
Eivomedia John Colthorpe
Get ready for five days of out-of-this-world action at the world’s largest mountain bike festival. A gathering of the bike-minded, Crankworx brings together the world’s downhill, slopestyle and enduro legends with superfans, rising stars, industry innovators and the next generation of mountain bike riders in New Zealand’s mountain biking mecca – Rotorua. Come and get amongst the dirt, culture and spirit for the competitions, concerts and culture. crankworx.com
SURFERS PARADISE FESTIVAL 2-26 April 2015
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Stay at Surfers Paradise YHA +61 7 5571 1776 surfersparadise@yha.com.au
NZ
GREAT KIWI BEER FESTIVAL 28 March 2015
MORE FESTIVALS
Quench your thirst for craft kiwi beers at New Zealand’s largest one-day beerstravaganza, in Christchurch’s Hagley Park. Enjoy the mix of old favourites and new craft beers from over 50 local breweries, along with mouth-watering morsels and goodies, live music, demos, the Craft Beer Academy, Chef’s Kitchen and the Brewer’s Table. greatkiwibeerfestival.co.nz
Stay at YHA Christchurch or YHA Christchurch Rolleston House u
The Great Kiwi Beer Festival
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Sydney Mardi Gras 20 February – 8 March 2015 Stay Sydney Central YHA
Adelaide Clipsal 500 26 February – 1 March 2015 Stay Adelaide Central YHA
Noosa Festival of Surfing 7-14 March 2015 Stay Stay Halse Lodge YHA
NaTIONAL KAPA HAKA Festival 4-8 March 2015
Taste your way around South Australia under one roof. Cellar Door brings over 170 wineries and producers to the Adelaide Convention Centre, offering complimentary tastings, Masterclasses BOOK from internationallyNOW renowned chefs and winemakers, delicious long table feasts and more. cellardoorfestival.com
SA Cellar Door Wine Festival
CELLAR DOOR WINE FESTIVAL 20-22 February 2015
Stay YHA Christchurch or YHA Christchurch Rolleston House
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Stay at Adelaide Central YHA 61 8 8414 3010 adlcentral@yha.com.au
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BACKPACKER / ESSENTIALS
YHA.COM.AU YHA.CO.NZ NEXT ISSUE AVAILABLE 8 APRIL 2015