August, 2012 (Destination Issue) by YomoYama Magazine

YoMoYaMa online magazine Editor in Chief Molly Conner

Ice Editor Oisin Collins

Fire Editor Mandy Klein

Associate Editors Shannon Lough Tonya Kneff

Layout and Design Daniel Pierce

Cover Photo/Design Daniel Pierce

Staff Writers Nicholas Aaron Mckay (Financial Editor) Emma Pierce (Travel and Whimsy) Sabbi Topal (Literature)

Hello, Nagano!

Destinations. This is the time of year when all of us, recontracting or not, are heading towards new places in our lives. For some of us, this means travel. For others, a new home. And sometimes, it’s a mix of the two. That feeling in your bones when you find yourself in a familiar place that’s starting to seem a little foreign. The weight off of your chest when you come into a new adventure, a new landscape, and seek out your own sense of belonging.

After three wonderful years in Japan, my own destination lies back in America. What’s next for the magazine? An amazing staff, with a mix of new and familiar faces to guide Yomoyama for the following year. Daniel Pierce will be staying on as graphic designer, while the deadly duo of Mandy Klein and Oisin Collins will be stepping up as your “Fire and Ice” editors. Thank you so much to everyone who has contributed to this magazine: be it as a staff member, a writer, or a reader. I know that whatever Yomoyama’s next destination may be, it will be guided by a group of the best people in the best prefecture in Japan. Yours, Molly Conner

D Table of

Contents Introduction

A short message from the new editors!

Travel

Ten Travel Tips by Oisin Collins Keeping the Golden Week Glow by Emma Pierce

5 16 42 47

Zazen for Beginners by Shannon Lough

Photography

Beijing by Sabbi Topal Destination: Man by Anthony Ciero and Justin K. Ellis

Gourmet

Cake: Dinner’s Destination by Rus N. A Taco Accident Changed my Life by Emma Pierce

Literature

The Shoemaker’s House and Daruma Ichi by Monica Pace Novel Destinations by Sabbi Topal

Finance

Financial Destinations by Nick Mckay

Special Section: Hello/Goodbye!

Destination: JET by Catie Simonson Signs you’re leaving Japan by Molly Conner I Just Want to Say by Nagano-jin

Destination # 1

DESTINATIONS

Hi! I’m Oisin. I like apples. Coincidentally I come from Tasmania - formerly known as “The Apple Isle.” I’ve been in Nagano for almost a year and have come to love its rugged mountains, murmuring rivers, and witty banter. I’m very sad to see the very capable Molly go, but I look forward to steering the landlocked ship that is Yomoyama together with Fire Editor Mandy, the very talented Daniel, and everyone who has and will contribute to the cause of entertaining people through this magazine. I’m hoping to uncover a few of our fair prefecture’s mysteries, and maybe add a dash of historical trivia for our readers to impress their coworkers with. Pub Quiz anyone? Oisin Collins Ice Editor

Lovely readers, I’ve crafted the following deep and provocative haiku to express my feelings about the upcoming year. ヨモヤマへ僕は頑張るよろしくね！ Now that you've been moved to tears by such profound words, dry your eyes and please enjoy the remainder of The Destination Issue! Mandy Klein Fire Editor

by Oisin Collins

By Emma Pierce

can’t count the times my inter-Japan travel plans have done a 180 mid-route. Let’s face it: for a country with typhoons, monsoons, earthquakes, volcanoes, tsunamis and even now a nuclear exclusion zone, betting on good weather is just too much to ask. However, adventure always comes in funny ways, like boarding the wrong train, getting lost in a crowd of millions, or putting your life in the hands of strangers. For me, the thrill of travel comes from the freedom to move, be moved, solve, struggle, and see. When I moved to Japan three years ago, I had never set foot on this continent. Since then, I’ve come to embrace a way of exploring Japan. It’s never as planned, but always somehow better than expected. So, this past year’s golden week forecast? Clouds and crowds. No exception.

Have a default plan. Don’t be strict. We mapped a rough route through Hakone down the Izu coast, then off to the islands of Kozu and Shikine for camping. With an ETC, a car full of gear, and a sunny start, we only set two goals for day one. Freedom and spontaneity were invited. Goal number one: Shiraito Falls. Surprises on the way: Lake Shoji, blooming sakura, majestic views of Fuji, a stranger’s cute puppy, and priceless Engrish. Goal number two: our hotel in Hakone. Surprises on the way: a Japanese garden, a beautiful white stupa in Gotemba’s heiwa-koen, an expansive outlet shopping center, and brick oven-fired pizza.

2 Savor the sun. Japan’s not known for giving several consecutive days of it. We got about two. Although forecasts aren’t perfect, next-day predictions were well near spot-on. Sunday: up by seven. Sleeping is for the rain. By quarter to nine, Lake Ashinoko’s Komagatake-sancho ropeway had only four other people in line for the tram. By ten, we were in the aquarium at the lakeshore. By mid-day, we were in swimsuits gliding down the onsen water-slide at Hakone’s Yunessan onsen resort. Golden week crowds hit hard in the afternoon, so we were happy to have had plenty of time to soak around and wait for a spot in the more popular wine, coffee, and green tea baths. A sun-day not wasted. 3

Savor the rain. Or the things you don’t mind doing in it, that is. Sleeping in, driving, shopping. Although the coast from Odawara to Ito would have been more lovely in the sun, at least we weren’t getting wet. A cute, covered area near Atami station made for a decent bakery lunch and omiyage hunting stop. Ito: more napping, and crowd watching from a foot onsen.

Know how much, how to, and when to cancel. Rain – on and off – and a forecast for four more days of it: we dialed the Tokai Kisen ferry and called-off Izu island camping. With only one more night booked in nearby Usami, we explored the Jogasaki suspension bridges and cliffs. The intermittent drizzle cools a person scrambling over sea rocks. Finally, one last night in Atami. Lone diners at a Hawaiian restaurant, then to an izakaya. Disappointment, then freedom again.

5 Never assume it’s over. “I’ve always wanted to visit the aquarium in Osaka.” During breakfast at the Atami bakery, we punch the coordinates into the smart-phone for kicks: just under seven hours. A stretch, but not impossible. Technology is great. Smart-phone: look up hotels. Cell-phone: call and book the hotel. Smart-phone: set navigation to exact destination: Osaka Oasis Chuo hotel, six point seven hours (hostelworld.com is great). This calls for one more cup of coffee. 6 COUPONS. Hotels have them. Nice people give you tips. If you’re headed to the Osaka Kaiyukan aquarium, find a subway attendant at any station and buy the day-pass aquarium package. For only 300yen more than the admission ticket, ride the subway all day. Just don’t lose the pass when you hurriedly draw your camera phone from your pocket during the whale-shark feeding. 7

Authentic Mexican Food. Near Namba station in Osaka, a real live Mexican man can be found on the fifth floor of a green building near the river. There, he fries up spicy carnitas, stuffs burritos, and garnishes enchiladas. You need this in your life.

8 Kyoto during Golden Week? It is what has been warned. Crowd pushing, wallet draining. With good reason though, as we enjoyed the anonymity while stuffing our faces with samples of yatsuhashi at the omiyage stores. Also, Kyomizu-dera isn’t that bad in the rain. One afternoon under said conditions seemed enough. It’s better kept as a good memory, so as to return again. 9

Expect traffic. There will always be traffic. Not being rushed on the way home is a beautiful thing. With still two days to spare, we were able to arrange a night in Nagoya to break up the long drive (again, hostelworld.com is great).

Don’t forget the beauty close to home. We finally got a chance to bust out the tent and join our friends for some camping back in the beautiful south of Nagano. Anan’s Wachinogawa campsite number two is a bit tricky to find, but worth the hunt. Nothing quite beats being riverside before mosquito season. Golden Week 2012. Rainy, adventurous, never as planned, better than expected.

by: Shannon Lough

azen: the art of meditation. A Japanese tradition espoused by Buddhists and those who seek to quiet their minds and gain peace from the practice. Whether you’re a salary man, an heir to a factory-business, an injured judo wrestler, or an English teacher from Nagano, the benefits of zazen can be embraced by anyone willing to follow the strict regiments of living in a zazen center.

The practice involves silent meditation from anywhere between 3-4 hours a day, sitting in seiza while eating in silence, cleaning your dishes with a takuan (pickle), and chanting the morning and evening sutras. If you’re still interested, continue reading and I

will tell you about my stay this spring at the Hosenji Zazen Centre, in Kyoto. The Hosenji Zazen Centre has an open policy for those wanting to study the art of zazen. The monks there are patient, yet strict, and are willing to guide you onto the path towards what head monk Kokugon said is the “origin of consciousness.” I have practiced yoga for years, and I find my meditative state while running long distances, but I have never been able to master sitting meditation. My mind is too busy, it wanders and takes me to thoughts that I didn’t know existed, like: “could I stuff gyoza wrappers with cinnamon and apples?” I have

tried to meditate for 10 minutes a day, but suddenly I was throwing myself into hours of meditation. I wanted to experience a departure from my busy mind, and find the zazen state of “being here now.” To appreciate the present moment, and free your mind from the tireless thoughts of the past and future, zazen teaches mindfulness. The Hosenji Centre created this awareness through a meticulous schedule that began at 5:20am and ended with lights out at 9:30pm. The lifestyle that is introduced at the centre encourages the right mindfulness to bring with you into your meditation.

an hour of zazen, the head monk joins everyone in the Hondou for the morning sutras. The reverberations of the chanting, and the repetition of sounds brings you into a trance-like state. The book they provided me with was for English speakers, so I’m chanting the romanji version, and I have no idea what I’m saying, but it sounds beautiful. The evening sutras are also captivating, but I think the morning has more effect mostly because people are still half-asleep and starving.

Mindful cleaning. In spite of your hunger, everyone must clean for twenty minutes before breakfast. We were all designated rooms or areas of the Mindful body. You arise to the temple to clean. I cleaned one of the lasound of bells at 5:20am. There are no dies guest rooms, which was a partitioned heaters, and the walls are shoji-thin, but section of the Hondou. The women slept the sun is just peering out over the surwhere we prayed, and men slept in the rounding hills and it’s time to join the oth- log cabin outside of the temple. Mostly ers outside for morning tai-chi practice. we clean in silence, and without socks, It’s cold, one mornwhich proves difficult when ing it even snowed, all the windows and shoji To appreciate the present but everyone endures moment, and free your mind doors are opened up to the it together. Your outside, and the minus 0 hands are frigid after from the tireless thoughts temperatures pour into the the practice, but your of the past and future, zazen rooms. teaches mindfulness. body is warm and Cleaning is constant limber, ready to sit in throughout the day. After stillness for an hour each meal, everyone cleans of zazen in the 本堂 Hondou (Buddha the room with zeal. Between breakfast Hall). You are aware of everything durand lunch is a 2-hour period of cleaning, ing this morning session. Your feet lose where weather depending a group is sent feeling from sitting in half lotus, which out to the vegetable garden to pick weeds, is a good thing because they’re ice cold. clear the path, and prepare the plants for Your stomach is making noises you didn’t spring growth. One day it rained, so we know existed, but you’re not embarrassed spent the time in zazen, doing Chinese because there are stranger noises coming calligraphy while in silence and sitting in from the guy’s stomach to your left. After seiza.

“

Everyone works together. It’s like a commune. They clean with pride, in purifying the space where they eat, sleep, and pray. No one complains, and everyone looks forward to break-time for tea, and a relaxed lunch where the zazen form of eating is forgone. Mindful eating. Breakfast is taken seriously. You must wait in the Hondou, practicing zazen meditation. Once the gong is struck, you are called into the dining room. The bowls, handkerchiefs and chopsticks that you have been assigned are placed on the table where you’re meant to sit. The longer you stay at the zazen center, the further along the table you move, until you eventually sit on the other side and act as a senpai of zazen table manners for someone newer to the practice. On the first day, you will most likely sit across from the head monk, or his trainees. They will guide you on how to gassho, or pray, before you receive each pot of food. Then you serve yourself, only a small amount because the food must be shared by everyone, and they eat fast, so you don’t want to be the last one eating. The silence can reach a level of awkwardness while everyone waits for the last person to finish their dish. After a few minutes of eating the head monk slams his giant sized chop sticks against the table (his chopsticks are comically large). Then the pots of food are passed back down the table for round two. If you want more beans or soupy rice then you gassho. If not, you bow with your hands on your knees and pass the food back towards the head monk. Once everyone is finished eat-

ing, you place your remaining takuan, or pickle, in the rice bowl. A kettle is passed down the table, and you receive hot water in your bowl to clean your dishes. With the hot water and pickle, you clean your three bowls, eat the pickle, drink the dishwater, and place the bowls together to wrap up in a cloth on your lap with as little noise as possible. If you lack grace, and make a noise, you will hear a few disgruntled throat noises coming from others. Mindful free time. You are given time throughout the day that allows you some freedom. After breakfast, you get an hour to unwind, which was a great time to go outside for a walk in the sun or practice yoga. After lunch, you are given four hours of free-time, which is enough time for a run along the paths between the farmer’s fields, a shower, and a trip to the delicious bakery down the road that has the best chocolate chip buns and cinnamon rolls. Then after dinner, at 4:30 p.m., you have another hour or so of free time before the serious session of zazen and sutra chanting. During this time, my friend and I organized a yoga class for the rest of the members of the zazen commune to loosen up before sitting for 90 minutes in an upright rigid half lotus posture. There was also about an hour of free time, and tea, after the evening sutras, and just before lights out. Because your free time was limited, you were mindful of the time you had, and what you could do with it. You made the most of this time, and enjoyed being able to relax

and find the activities that make you the person that you are.

like being hypnotized you fall immediately into a trance. A bell will also be sounded to end the session, which pulls Mindful meditation. They will you out from wherever you’ve ended up. explain all the strict nuances of zazen To avoid sleeping, sit up straight, to you on your first night, and will most and keep your eyes partially open, folikely be constantly reminding you of cused on a spot within one meter. your follies throughout the rest of your Imagine that you are trying to emanate the stay. Buddha’s pose: your hands in your lap, There are several processions your dominant hand cradling the other to entering and exiting the hondou and with palms facing up, while the tips of sitting down on the zafu (pillow) that is your thumbs lightly press into each other, raised to allow your three points: butt and forming a circle, the cosmic mudra. both knees, to press into the floor during In the second session, the head mediation. Somemonk will walk around times you read from the room, with a keisaku, Your breathing must be “The Teachings of a long flat wooden stick. deep, slow, and internal, Buddha” before you If you wish to be hit to start the official night through the belly and chest. rev up your concentrasessions of zazen. tion, or to battle drowsiYou will take breaks ness, then when the monk between each 30-mincomes by, you bow to ute session of zazen. Usually, after the him, thus volunteering for a beating. It second session, everyone walks in a medi- doesn’t hurt that much, and the excitetative circle in front of the temple outside ment of getting whacked on your stiff under the moonlight, to loosen up your shoulders wakes you up and energizes body for the final and most acute session you for a more concentrated meditation. of meditation. Zazen will close with a repetitive Your breathing must be deep, chiming of the bell, in which everyone slow, and internal, through the belly and stands up from their seated position, a chest. Silence is essential. You will be challenging attempt after sitting for so told if you’re too loud. Avoid fidgeting, long. Then you bow, and get on your and coughing. Sit with a straight spine, knees to bow again to prostrate yourself and cross-legged, with either one foot on before the big golden Buddha statue in your opposing thigh (half lotus) or both the room. You do this three times, quite feet (full lotus). I sat in full lotus for one quickly, without falling over. 30-minute session, and could barely stand It was difficult to find the concenup after to bow to the Buddha. Be careful tration to think of nothing for such a long when standing too fast. time. The mind wanders and it’s amazing The head monk will sound a bell how little control I had over it at times. to initiate the beginning of the meditation. There were a couple zazen sessions where This sound seems to purify the room, and it happened, it clicked, and I was able to

“

reach a place of stillness, nothingness, of sheer focus, where I allowed all my thoughts to dissipate and I came to a temporary departure of the mind. The feeling afterwards was parallel to seeing the sunrise from the top of Fujisan, reaching the finish line at the Tokyo Marathon, or walking amongst the ruins of Angkor Wat. It was one of elation, clarity, and peace. Mindful sleep. After a 5:20am wake-up call, trying to stay present and focused all day, while bearing the cold and austere environment, and doing a final hour and a half of trying to still your mind and body while your lower legs and ankles go numb in half lotus position, you are ready for bed. If you have the energy, you make the trek outside to wash your face and brush your teeth in the sink outside. Then you bid everyone goodnight, and pass out under the heavy blankets, with your head pressed stiffly on the rock hard Japanese bean pillow. You don’t even make it to lights out, you’re already asleep. Mindful presence. There are many reasons to try zazen. If you want to practice or deepen your meditation. To ease your stress and the retreat from the noise of everyday. To search for your origin of consciousness while departing from the regular twitterings of the mind. Or simply if you want to experience traditional Japanese culture. I wanted to experience all these things when I came to the Hosenji zazen center. I’m leaving Japan in August, and I wanted to find presence, so that I can squeeze out every last drop of my days left here, rather than stressing about the future and what’s next.

Since my time at Hosenji, I have continued to practice zazen most nights. I will leave you with a quote from a translated book on zazen that Head Monk Kokugon gave to me. “I walked everywhere all day long To seek ‘spring’ in vain. Tired out, I came home To find my plum in bud.” -Tai I (960-1279) Information: Hosen-ji Zen Center Contact: (81)771-24-0378 E-mail: kokugon@zazen.or.jp Send your name, address, date of arrival and length of stay. They will respond with more directions and the time to arrive (usually before 3 p.m.). Minimum stay is 3 days. Donation required for your stay is 10,000 yen for 3 nights, including meals, and 3,000 yen per night after the three required nights. 80,000 yen for one month. Those who wish to stay longer can discuss with the head monk. Bring all your own toiletries, and wear loose fitting respectable clothing that doesn’t make a noise when you move around, or doesn’t have loud colours. From JR Kyoto Station, take the Sagano line from platform 32 or 33 to Umahori station. Hosen-ji is about a 15 minute walk from the station. A map, and more information are available on their website. http://www.zazen.or.jp/zencenter-e.html

Readers, take a journey with us. A journey told in film, starting with the heart of China and ending with the simplicity, the complexity, the majesty of the human body. As you peruse these pictures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; many of them in black and white like God intended â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ask yourselves a question. Where does man start, and sheer architecture begin? by Sabbi Topal

DESTINATION:

On May 26, 2012, Justin Ellis and Anthony Ciero departed from the prefectural capital and ventured to Iida's Tenryu River. What resulted was a rare exposition of the male form. Within the next few pages watch the mystery of man unfold. Origin: Nagano City. Destination: Man.

by Justin K. Ellis and Anthony Ciero

MAN

BRIDGE TO MANLINESS

MAN ON THE EDGE OF TIME

STATELINESS of

MAN

THE CLASSIC

MAN

RIVER OF MAN

M MAN AT REST

MAN IN ACTION N

ATLAS WAS A MAN

CAKE Dinner’s Destination

by Rus N.

hen I discovered the theme of this issue of Yomoyama, I have to say that I had no idea what to write about, only that I had promised to write something. “Destinations…destinations, destinations…” I pondered where I could go with it, hours and mornings and days passed, car journeys, long classes and sleepless moments in the dead of night. I thought long and hard, the whole concept of destinations deconstructing in my mind; I wove a portrait of life’s ambitions, hopes, dreams, journeys and places in an intricate web of silver threads. It grew in my imagination, a shining gossamer network holding together shapes, sounds and feelings… But then I decided to write about cake instead! So I did! Like most Englishmen, cake is one of my favourite things in life. It’s versatile, delicious and pleasing in whatever form it takes. I have always accommodated it into my appetite no matter the meal or time of day. When I worked at one particular restaurant I regularly ate the equivalent of my salary in cake during my breaks, at their expense. I am a self-confessed cake fiend. I love the cake. Eating cake, that is. Delicious cake. Any cake. But not Japanese cake... It’s not even that I don’t like Japanese cake. Cake is fine on the rare occasion you can find it. I like Japanese cake, it’s just all that other stuff I don’t like. The stuff that is sold everywhere, the stuff that looks and smells like cake, and is

even wrapped and falsely labeled as such, the only kind they seem to have here. There is even the possibility that it tastes a bit like cake. But these are NOT cakes, these are fabrications of cake, carefully constructed lies. They are painstakingly woven reconstructions of what someone has seen in pictures and movies and has subsequently inferred how cake should be, while every effort is made to involve as little actual cake as possible. These are decorated and styled by technicians to create the perfect forgery, an imitation placed in fancy paper and sold for 300 yen, piece by barely existent piece. I do not often let my guard down enough to purchase cake any more, but when I do, when in a passing moment of weakness I succumb to my urges, I try very hard to select the one that seems to actually cast a shadow. Even so, you still have no idea of the cake’s veracity while you’re handing over your hard earned yennies or unwrapping the protecting…no, supporting, cellophane. It’s only when it’s too late and you’ve already forced it into your mouth that the “cake” collapses into nothingness. Any sense of the disguise quickly evaporates as per design. It is only when you are particularly lucky that there is even anything left to swallow. Other than your sadness. I’m sure there are many of you who have experienced the same thing as I have. The excitement at the sighting of a delicious cake shop somewhere in Japan, the heartbreaking selection process as you choose between so many fine looking specimens, the anticipation as you purchase your chosen final slice. All of these emotions just heightening the sense of disappointment you will inevitably feel upon the consumption of it. The sense of betrayal, and knowing like so many times before, you have been played for a fool. “Never again will I put myself through this heartbreak!” you tell yourself. Deep down that pain remains, stabbing at your soul a little more every time you give in, until, finally there is nothing left to feel and you reject cake altogether for fear of the inevitable hurt it brings. I know that somewhere out there, there are good, hearty, delicious cakes, but sorry Japan, I simply can’t trust you anymore. You and your cakes have broken my heart one too many times. Until you manage to win it back I’m just going to have to stick with other, less conniving desserts. Dessert should never be a source of pain. Japan, you are doing it wrong! So, I beseech all of you: don’t trust the cake, that path only leads to sadness! Finally I have reached my destination (see what I did there?) and so if you do somehow manage to stumble upon a good cake somewhere in the depths of Japan’s bakery scene, then get a slice for your old buddy, Rus…

by Emma Pierce

12 small tortillas** 1 pack ground meat (pork or beef) 2 eggs 1/2 can diced tomatoes 1 cup brown rice (dry) 1 1/2 cups water 1/2 onion

2/3 cup salsa*** 1 tbsp canola oil 1 tbsp sliced, dried red chili peppers 150g pack of shredded cheese 1 pack cherry tomatoes 1 pack fresh spinach

By Shannon Lough Ingredients 3/4 cup butter, softened 3/4 cup white sugar 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour (or 1 cup whole-wheat flour 1/4 white flour) 1 teaspoon baking soda 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 1/4 cups rolled oats 1 cup raisins or dried cranberries 1/2 cup of mixed nuts Directions 1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). 2. In large bowl, cream together butter, white sugar, and brown sugar until smooth. 3. Beat in the eggs and vanilla until fluffy. 4. Stir together flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt. 5. Gradually beat into butter mixture. 6. Stir in oats, raisins/cranberries, and nuts. 7. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto ungreased cookie sheets. Bake 8 to 10 minutes in the preheated oven, or until golden brown. Cool slightly, remove from sheet to wire rack. Cool completely.

*Adapted from All Recipes.com

Daruma Ichi T

By Monica Pace

here's an orange stuffed dog long ago whose eyes, having peeled, I'd painted back on. Nowadays, there's something called the daruma market. This is a wooden town. On Saturday there were rice pastries on sticks from the festival stalls, and the mustachioed, plaster eyeless buddha heads for sale--the Daruma. Buy a small one for 3000 yen and, making any wish, draw a pupil in the right eye. He'll look in different directions, one eye without, one eye within, and if your intention comes to pass, some several months hence, you take him down from the shelf and paint on the left eye. At Hokoji Jinja (the local shrine) there's a burial bin for used Daruma. Varying sizes, and varying degrees of eyed or eyeless. There was one with pinpoint pupils, as if catching something brilliant; there was a winking one, and there was one with blank sockets. Of this last, there's only theory: that person must have been happy, and not wanted anything. 47

The Shoemaker's House

By Monica Pace

I never met the shoemaker. But, shoes in need of repair, my boyfriend and I drove to the mountains of Komagane where he'd recently moved. --There's a number, but it's not working, Nakayama-san said, after a brief phone call. --But we can try visiting. He repaired shoes for me and my father. There's something inherently efficient about Komagane, the compact city to the south, where even the parking lots are smaller. I opted for the mountain roads, watching evergreens thaw behind a curtain of rain. We reached the snow line. --This is Fire Mountain, Nakayama-san noted in Japanese, and then English, in his soft tones. I imagined that was the way it must look in autumn. --Let's park up there, he gestured at a building that resembled the other houses dotting the hilltop farm-scape. It was the town hall. We began on foot up the narrow road that I'd refused to drive on. I watched the the city make its own map far below. There was a windy sky, and an elderly woman making her way down the road. --Let's ask her, Nakayamasan suggested, and she was happy to stop and speak to strangers of her neigbour. She became increasingly animated. I detected an incredulous tone, an "It's really funny you should mention the shoemaker," tone. --There's his house over there, asoko desu, asoko desu, she was quick to point out. --You can try, look at that house over there, only last month--I caught, in my imperfect ear for the language that knows only impressions. I watched her slight frown, and first a look of concern, and then of interest when we stated that we'd attempt it. When we started back up, I said, --So the house IS around here, isn't it? --Yes, Nakayama-san admitted. --But, he's moved again. Look. 48

And I stared up: an impressive black-charred frame that held divisions to rooms, the sky and mountains; and mountains of scarred shoes and household ruin that scattered out on the soft ground. --The shoemaker had a stove, he explained. Something was wrong with the chimney. In the centre of entropy, a perfect stove stood, perfectly upright. The front doors, metal, were warped and all the beams had molted. There was the damp burned smell, the green of evergreens, the liquid sky. When your shop is your house. Bespoke equipment. Life and livelihood. An older child's bike. Workman's bench and zabuton. There was a "We've relocated" sign tacked to the one remaining wall. --Mind if I copy this?-- Nakayama-san asked. --He's staying with a friend for now. -I took some photographs, but all got erased save for the one that was blurred and a mistake. Back in the car, Nakayama-san, curious, looked up the new address on his iPad. It was the blog of a smiling woman with a violin. There was a chronicle of the disaster, a photo of stark blue sky and snow and conflagration. --Oh, it says he can't be reached for a little while: twelve-day meditation. Good for him, Nakayama-san said, approvingly. And, I know her, --he said, pointing to the picture of the smiling woman with the violin. A few years ago, she came to my office. We gave her blankets and emergency supplies. Her house burned down, too. And her fiancee died in a car accident. I started up the car and thought about the people I never met. --Well, let's try to visit them again, maybe after he's had some time, I suggested. With or without the shoes. I'd just like to meet them. --Nakayama-san agreed. It was getting dark, so I took the city road home.

Book Reviews Dave Barry Does Japan

(E-book: Ballantine Books, 2010; ISBN 0449908100. Paperback: Ballantine Books, 1993; ISBN 10-0449908100.)

f you’ve heard of Dave Barry, a Pulitzer prize-winning humorist, chances are you’re an American child of the ‘90s or your parents have an appreciation for funny newspaper columns. If you haven’t yet been exposed to his particular mainstream humor, fear not, you have an excellent chance of giggling with this book. Dave Barry Does Japan is a decently funny anecdote of an “everyman” American experiencing Japan for the first time. Your family would probably enjoy it or relate to it, if they’ve ever

visited Japan. It covers basic cultural differences such as language, social interaction, traditional Japanese arts, and varying senses of humor. Barry even tells about baring it all in an onsen trip, which he then spent the majority of trying to avoid the cleaning ladies. While Barry is clearly trying to make the reader laugh, he never resorts to cruel jokes or insults, and is always ready to make fun of himself. The average Nagano-ite would probably enjoy this book as a humorous reminder of their own moments of cultural awkwardness in the past. There were several moments akin to, “I remember when I didn’t know how to ask for directions” or “I remember when I didn’t know what I was eating.” Some of which, obviously, still extend into present experience, but most of which are happily behind me. It was also very interesting to read between the lines to find the heavy 1980-1990s American bias towards Japan. We read about ALTs and other foreign professionals being introduced into a community for the first time, but sometimes it’s easy to forget the history that brought us here. This book offers a clear, average Joe-outlook on Japan from the early ‘90s, and let’s just say it was certainly a bit more racist than “Japan is cool! Sushi, kimono, and anime come from Japan!” Again, Barry never stoops to being mean, but some of the overwhelming cultural assumptions that ran rampant during the time were certainly interesting. Sabbi Topal

Novel Destinations:

Literary Landmarks from Jane Austin’s Bath to Ernest Hemingway’s Key West by Shannon McKenna Schmidt and Joni Rendon (E-book: National Geographic, 2008; ASIN B0017SWS6S. Paperback: National Geographic, 2009; ISBN 10-142620454X.)

f you’re a lit nut who loves traveling, this book is right up your alley. With interesting information about authors’ and characters’ favorite haunts, literary festivals, museums, and more, this travel guide has almost everything you need to plan your next book vacation in real life. Some of their suggested spots run towards the pricier end of things, but if you’re willing to shell out for a fictional day or two, there shouldn’t be a problem. Drawbacks of the book: it’s heavily European and American-focused as well as limited to major English literary works. If you’re looking for information on spots from some of the newer classics, you won’t find them here. Still, not a bad investment if you’re interested in visiting Salinas to relive East of Eden or heading to Bath to experience Persuasion. Sabbi Topal 51

Financial Destinations By Nicholas Aaron McKay

his is going to be the last article I write for Yomoyama. I've really enjoyed the challenge and opportunity to write for this magazine and am even happier to have people read my submissions. Hopefully this article will also be simple to read and applicable to your financial situations. Before I jump into the meat and potatoes here I want to spend a few sentences recruiting a financial â&#x20AC;&#x153;staff writerâ&#x20AC;? for Yomoyama! I suppose this isn't really advertising so much as a plea for help. Anyone who feels motivated enough to write submissions 52

with a financial theme should send their inquiries to our current staff at yomoyamamagazine@gmail.com! So I need to address this issue's theme of Destination. This article will unfortunately have little to no relevance for our recent batch of departing JETs. However, those of you remaining in Japan (and just arriving) may want to begin thinking about your financial situation upon departure. Specifically, how much savings you want in the bank as a safety cushion. This type of planning doesn't come naturally to most of us but is an issue we must face sooner or later. I have

been doing this over the past year or so and am in a good position to survive for a while back home. So hopefully the tactics I've used will also be equally applicable for you.

realize that your expenses will most likely go down at home. Rent won't be an issue if you shack up with your parents, food will likely be less expensive for the same reason, as well as a host of other things that will be How do we prepare for going home? reduced or disappear altogether until Before we can make a plan we need you get your own life up and running to set a goal. You can't plan a trip for again. However, there is a maxim that your vacation unless you know where goes, "Plan for only bad times, and you wanna go and financial planning you will experience only good times." is no different. I would advocate, The “bad times” in this case would with current market be your current conditions around monthly expensYou don’t want to make the world, a 6-month es. Use those to plans for a sunny situation financial buffer. It's plan your savonly to find that your good to take a conserings, and not a savings will last half as vative approach when reduced budget. long as expected. the risks of running I personally use out of money will a 3 month SMA severely impact your (Simple Moving lives. Average) to gauge my monthly expenses. You can After we have set a savings benchobviously do as you like, these are mark we need to determine how much merely suggestions for those intermoney equals 6 months of savings. ested. This is where having a budget in place will help you determine an appropriate The easy part of prepping your budget amount. 1 month's worth of savings will be to allocate a certain amount will equal 1 month's worth of expens- to a savings category. The earlier es. Again, here it is critical to take a you start saving for departure, the conservative less money needs to be set aside each approach to measuring your expenses. month to meet your goals. I have 3 You don't want to make plans for a places in my budget used for saving sunny situation only to find that your money. I have a savings account savings will last half as long as ex(pretty self-explanatory), a freedom pected. That is not a pleasant surprise! account, and a leftover account. My freedom account is used to spend If you think about it, you’ll probably however I wish. Any remaining

“

amount is saved. The leftover account is the cash remaining from my previous paycheck. That money is saved as well. I am about 1 month away from meeting this 6-month goal with 2 paychecks to go so I would say my plan worked almost perfectly. Another insanely helpful tip will be getting rid of your loans. For most of us, school loans are our primary form of debt. The bad thing about loans is that even without a steady stream of income money will steadily come out of your pocket each month. If you are able to eliminate your debt, you can save that money and additionally reduce your monthly expenses. I wrote about using a debt reduction plan as a way to eliminate debt quickly in an earlier issue of Yomoyama which you may find useful. Now this next trick for keeping track of how close you are to meeting your goal is what I call a â&#x20AC;&#x153;homeless timer.â&#x20AC;? Basically, this informs me how long I can survive before running out of money. My homeless timer at the beginning of May stood at 4 months, 29 days. The way to calculate this timer is a simple two-step process. I will explain and use my numbers as illustration. First divide your total savings by your monthly expenses... (ex. $11,580.61 / $2,324.02 = 4.98) 54

Then multiply 30 days by the decimal number (ex. 0.98) to get the number of days you can survive...

(ex. 30 x 0.98 = 29.4)

This is not a very essential step for your financial departure but it is a fun way to keep track of your progress and a great conversation starter amongst friends. My monthly financial statement is in a very visible place at home and people are almost always confused when they see the strange barometer! I believe a condensed summary is in order. Set up a budget to keep track of your expenses, eliminate bad debt to increase survivability, and use a homeless timer to keep track of your progress. It has been a real pleasure to write articles for this magazine and I hope my submissions have been simple to understand and useful. And as always, constructive criticism is welcome.

Any questions you may have please send tonick.mckay01@ gmail.com.

by: Catie Simonson [Editor’s note: for most of us, the application process for JET/Interac/ direct hire/etc is a hazy, sweaty, suit-wearing, distant recollection. But there’s a whole crop of brand new Naganites who have recently endured the waiting game. Read on, and be glad that for most of us, the wait is over and the destination is here.]

he end of my senior year of college was fast approaching, and so too was the resounding imminence of “the real world.” With a liberal arts degree in my back pocket, what would I be doing? How could I possibly earn a living wage in the tanked US economy, let alone find a job? Being the plan-freak that I am, I needed a good plan, and I needed it fast. That’s when I remembered that some of my friends had been on a postgraduate program that paid them to teach overseas in Japan. Move to Japan, reconnect with my Japanese heritage, and start off my dream life of world travel with a bang…count me in! So I began the long and tedious process of applying to the JET Programme. The deadlines were pushed back for the 2012 application cycle; the application was released late, which meant that all of the following deadlines were late as well. Sure, pushing back deadlines is great 55

for someone who needs that last minute time, but for me (the perpetually overprepared applicant) the wait for everything was agonizing. The application wasn’t difficult, but quite lengthy with all of its detailed questions and specific directions for submission. I was in Social Statistics on the morning when the interview list was released. I feverishly searched through the sea of numbers to find my assigned digits, and they were right there on the third page, YES! I got it! In February I had my interview through the Portland, OR consulate. I came dressed to impress in a sharp black suit and was ready to sell myself to the interview panel. The first half went really well, but the second half ended up being a bit intense. I had marked on my application that I had no Japanese speaking ability, but mentioned being one-quarter Japanese in my personal statement essay. Apparently they took that to mean that I spoke fluent Japanese. My interview took a turn for the worst when I had to stop the language professor from speaking to me in Japanese because I knew there was no way I could manage getting through the conversation. The panel seemed upset that I couldn’t speak much Japanese. So I left the interview feeling defeated and figuring I wouldn’t stand a chance for acceptance. But along came April, and unexpectedly I received an email that read, “It is our great pleasure to inform you…” I had been short-listed! I couldn’t believe it. Now I really need to get that passport! Little did I realize that this was not the end of the torturous waiting game, as now I would have to wait another month for my official placement. I found myself refreshing my email and JET forum pages every fifteen minutes, to my boyfriend’s dismay. Just when he was about to throw my iPhone against a wall, I got the email that for the next few years of my life I would be calling Komagane-shi, Nagano-ken home. Woo hoo! I finally had a placement! … But where is Komagane-shi? Commence the Google searching and the Facebook frenzy! I am happy to have found a welcoming community waiting for me in Southern Nagano. So here I am, excited to start this big adventure to my next destination, Nagano!

Signs You’re Getting Ready to Leave Japan By Molly Conner

• You switch from drinking wine to drinking beer because cans are less complicated to throw away. • You start giving out the ranch dressing mix, good coffee, and taco spices that you’ve been hoarding for the past three years. • Your weekends have all been booked up since April. • You start relearning how to eat salads with forks instead of chopsticks. • When you go to Tokyo, you pick Japanese restaurants over Mexican. • You can’t drive someone around in your car without trying to sell it to them. • You’ve taken more pictures in the last week than in the last year. • You stop studying Japanese in order to brush up on your English. • You’ve been drinking out of the same broken coffee mug for two months. It’s too complicated to throw away and the hell if you’re going to drop an extra 100 yen for one month of mug use. • You haven’t bought anything new for the house since February. • When you spill soy sauce on your favorite jeans, you’re happy: one less thing to pack. • You evaluate the worth of a gift by how slimly it will fit in your suitcase. • You actually start to believe that school lunch is delicious. • You don’t remember what sleep feels like, but you can recite from memory the directions to your local recycling centers. All five of them. • You start thinking that Nagano winters aren’t really all that bad. • You untag pictures of yourself from every Leaver’s Party you ever remember attending. And a few you don’t remember attending. 57

Food for Thought

And last, but certainly not least...I present to you the greatest destination on EARTH.

MERICA 60