THE BIG STYLE ISSUE KILLER T R E N D S, W A T C H E S, S H O E S, HOTELS & MORE
LOSING STREAK
NEW WORLD ORDER FASHION'S BIGGEST PLAYERS
SHARPER. SMARTER. BETTER.
AFL'S HIDDEN GAMBLING CRISIS
HOW TO PLAY THE PROPERTY GAME THE PSYCHEDELICS TACKLING MENTAL ILLNESS
Kendrick lamar
POET, PULITZER-WINNER, GENIUS
louisvuitton.com
r a l p h l a u r e n . c o m / 5 0
M A S T E R C H RO N OM E T E R : R A I S I N G S TA N DA R D S
Behind the elegance of every Master Chronometer timepiece is the highest level of testing: 8 tests over 10 days, to ensure superior precision and anti-magnetic resistance. We’ve raised our standards. You can too. SPEEDMASTER RACING 44.25 MM
OMEGA Boutiques SYDNEY 20 Martin Place • Westfield Bondi Junction MELBOURNE 179 Collins Street • Chadstone • Crown Casino
BREITLING BOUTIQUE 61 MARKET STREET
SYDNEY
The Breitling Jet Squad Jacques Bothelin Christophe Deketelaere Paco Wallaert
A IR
LAND
#SQUADONAMISSION
THE RETURN O F A N I CO N . The all-new Audi R S 4 Avant.
Overseas model with optional equipment shown.
CALIBRE.COM. AU
@CALIBREAUSTRALIA
HEAD TURNER. HEART STOPPER. THE ALL NEW BMW M2 COMPETITION. With racing flair in every detail, the all new BMW M2 Competition is bound to get the heart racing. Its striking M design is matched with the powerful 3.0-litre BMW TwinPower Turbo in-line 6-cylinder petrol engine, inherited from the BMW M3 and M4. The result? A stunning mix of cutting edge design and breathtaking track performance. Coming soon.
A LIMITED EDITION COLLABORATION WITH LEWIS HAMILTON #TOMMYXLEWIS TOMMY.COM
WESTFIELD SYDNEY CHADSTONE DAVID JONES BOURKE STREET
CONTENTS
1 6 1 G E NT’S I N ITIATIVE Brick-and-mortar retail is very much alive and thriving – just ask Harrolds. 1 7 8 KI NG KE N DR IC K The kid from Compton who became the GOAT. 1 8 6 FASH ION’S N EW WOR LD O R DE R A who’s who of fashion’s emerging leaders and how they’re linked. 1 9 2 KI LLE R LOO KS Model Oliver Sonne showcases the best of FW18 in the City of Lights.
ON THE COVER
2 0 4 FEAR AN D LOATH I NG I N TH E L AB
THE BIG STYLE ISSUE
Psychedelics - medicine’s new frontier?
KILLER TRENDS W AT C H E S SH ES HOTELS & MORE
LOSING STREAK
2 1 0 AF TE R PART Y
HOW TO PLAY THE PROPERTY GAME
BIGGEST PLAYERS
Luxury fashion meets the ‘90s rave scene.
SHARPER. SMARTER. BETTER.
THE PSYCHEDELICS TACKLING MENTAL ILLNESS
Kendrick lamar POET, PULITZER-WINNER, GENIUS
2 2 2 LOS I NG STR EAK Is problem gambling among its players ruining Aussie rules?
AFL S H DDEN GAMBLING CRISIS
NEW WORLD ORDER FASHION'S
SEPT•OCT
Hoodie by Reigning Champ; T-shirt by H&M; and jewellery by Chrome Hearts. Photography Annie Leibovitz.
P171
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER P57
P86
Fashion’s favourite suitcase; Matt Groening’s new gig; A$AP Ferg talks bling; and more. 8 0 GQ&A Discussing social media, ABC budget cuts and more with one of Australia’s finest, Richard Roxburgh. 86 TASTE & TRAVEL A round up of the world’s most impressive hotels. 9 9 GQ ST YLE We highlight the best trends from the SS19 shows; Aussie actor Chris Pang shows you how to wear colour this spring; your next fragrance. 1 3 1 GQ WATC H
P131
From the best affordable watches to the horological trends worth knowing; also, what are tourbillons and why do they matter? 1 5 4 CARS
“Style is knowing who you are, as opposed to the way everybody thinks you should look.” G Q & A : R I C H A R D R OX B U RG H PAG E 8 0
Ferrari’s ‘GTC4 Lusso T’ is here; why you should seriously consider a wagon. 1 7 1 GQ I NC Buying your first home doesn’t need to be daunting. 2 3 5 GQ FIT Boutique fitness you are missing out.
EDITOR’S LETTER
A
ttends his irst men’s Paris fashion week as editor – happens to be the most seminal ever. No coincidences there. While I ponder how my fashion epitaph might one day read, digest this: menswear is growing at a faster rate than womenswear, with the industry set to rack up more than $670bn globally. On that exciting note, welcome to our Big Style Issue. Until now, I’d come to accept that not all men get excited by fashion. Clearly, though, more are into it than are letting on, which is fantastic news because really style is just an extension of your personality. GQ’s role is to do away with any inhibitions and coax out the conidence for you to dress as you wish. The above igure shows we are making decent headway. So, why is menswear having a moment? For starters it’s now better described as a movement, thanks in no small part to the growing inluence of the likes of Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones. So much has already been written about the these men (GQ’s two previous international designers of the year, if I may say) and their role in shaping men’s fashion, but what’s captivated me most about this new landscape is the move toward inclusivity and collectivity. Shows and their collections are now more accessible than ever before (just check your Insta feed) with the elite favouring collaboration over separatism. Indeed, at 5pm on June 23 at Paris’ Garde Républicaine, Boulevard Henri IV was close to a total stand-still for Kim Jones’ irst Dior Men show. But stood among the spectacle, what impressed me most was the number of Jones’ peers present; supporting, cheering, inspired. Virgil Abloh. Karl Lagerfeld. Haider Ackermann. Kenzo Takada. Chitose Abe. And most signiicantly Kris van Assche – the previous creative director at Dior enthralled by every look and one of the irst to his feet for Jones’ ‘victory lap’. It speaks volumes as to why an industry previously exclusive and detached from reality is currently thriving, accessible and, yes, amenable to all.
44
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
WA T C H T H I S S PA C E From envying his hair and ability to rock an impromptu serenade in 10 Things I Hate About You, to re-watching him over and over as the Joker in The Dark Knight, Heath Ledger will always hold a special place in my cinematic heart. Set up in the late actor’s honour, the Heath Ledger Scholarship means his legacy still lives on today, so it’s with great pleasure we announce GQ Australia will be the media partner for this year’s award. Past winners include GQ favourites Ryan Corr, Bella Heathcote and Mojean Aria and with an all-star judging panel including Matt Damon, Naomi Watts and Elizabeth Debicki, this year is set to be another stellar one. The announcement will be made on September 20 in LA, so be sure to log on to gq.com.au to find out the winner.
Add to this the Aussies lying the lag in Paris, notably SSS World Corp whose show belted out Pantera’s ‘Walk’, and EX INFINITAS, whose eclectic showing included surf magazines strewn across the loor – it’s no wonder our men’s interests are being piqued. In another pendulum swing, move aside Hollywood types, hip-hop artists are atop the New Fashion World Order (see p186 for more). Which is why we are thrilled Kendrick Lamar is starring on the cover of our Big Style Issue. Anyone lucky enough to see him live on his recent tour Down Under will know there really isn’t anyone more relevant, or important in music right now. To hear from the Pulitzer-prize winner in his own words, check out p178. Before you dive into the issue, remember to wish your dad a Happy Father’s day on September 2 and don’t forget September 13 is R U OK
MIKE CHRISTENSEN EDITOR
FOLLOW MIKE @CHRISTENSENMIKE
PHOTOGRAPHY: GIUSEPPE SANTAMARIA.
T H E
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER
CONTRIBUTORS HOW ELSE TO ILLUSTRATE A STORY ON PSYCHEDELIC DRUGS THAN THROUGH TRIPPY VISUALS?
archer TE D OU R DRUGS STO RY, P204
james dykes STYLED THE CHRIS PA N G S H O O T, P 1 0 6
ella Donald I NTE RVI EW E D MAT T G RO E N I NG, P74 Die-hard Simpsons fan? An understatement. There’s a photo of me aged nine with all my memorabilia – it covered my entire bedroom floor. Why has it remained so popular all these years? I think it’s never been afraid to be outspoken politically or culturally, so it has always stayed at the forefront of the conversation. You’ve seen an advance screening of Disenchantment - hit or miss?
46
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
Difficult question! It’s definitely for fans of a certain kind of Groening’s work – more Futurama than The Simpsons. What are some of your other TV top tips right now? Killing Eve, Sharp Objects, and Pose. I’ll also keep recommending Halt and Catch Fire until someone stops me. Netflix or Stan? Currently it’s Stan. It has a great mix of blockbusters and indie films, and get a lot of TV shows the same day as the US.
Can you give us a quick guide on how to pull off colour in the heat? Try a printed bowling or Hawaiian-style shirt, look to Australian brand Double Rainbouu or invest in a piece by Prada. What are some of your pet peeves when it comes shoots? Starting the day with a bad coffee or talent being late. Pang says crocs are a big no go – agree? Disagree. Love ugly shoes including crocs! And they’re even better if they are Christopher Kane Crocs. Hmm, the jury is still out. Hot tip for a men’s fashion craze this summer? Mini shorts were a major trend during the men’s SS19 shows. Just don’t forget leg day at the gym. It’s our Big Style Issue – who’re your favourite designers at the moment? Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten and Miuccia Prada are talented designers who reinvent their own brand each season. More importantly I want to own everything.
D I O R .C O M
T H E N E W E AU D E PA R F U M
EDITOR
MIKE CHRISTENSEN
DEPUTY EDITOR JAKE MILLAR
FASHION EDITOR OLIVIA HARDING
ART DIRECTOR SARAH HUGHES
FASHION ASSISTANTS ALEX KHOURY, KATE SULLIVAN
SENIOR SUB-EDITOR CHRISTOPHER RILEY
DIGITAL COMMERCIAL EDITOR JACK PHILLIPS
STAFF WRITER AMY CAMPBELL
ONLINE NEWS EDITOR NIKOLINA SKORIC
ASSOCIATE EDITOR RICHARD CLUNE
ONLINE CONTENT PRODUCER BRAD NASH
GROOMING EDITOR DAVID SMIEDT
OFFICE ENQUIRIES 02 8045 4784
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Timothy Anscombe-Bell, Adam Baidawi, Richard Brown, Tim Brown, Ella Donald, Noelle Faulkner, Anthony Huckstep, George Koutsakis, Lisa Robinson, Dan Rookwood.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Leila Amirparviz, Tim Ashton, Harold David, Marina Denisova, Johan Doornenbal, James Dykes, Annie Leibovitz, Jesse Lizotte, Salva Lopez, Giuseppe Santamaria, Denise Truscello, Edward Urrutia, Buzz White.
INTERNS Jessica Campbell, Tanisha Angel, Kristin Chin, Eunice Lam, Joshua Lee, Omar Merced, Matthew Olivieri. NATIONAL SALES & STRATEGY DIRECTOR, STYLE
Nicole Waudby 02 8045 4661 HEAD OF BRAND STRATEGY, STYLE Merryn Dhami 02 9288 1090 HEAD OF DIGITAL COMMERCIAL STRATEGY Amanda Spackman 02 8045 4658 BRAND STRATEGY MANAGER, STYLE Tessa Dixon 02 8045 4744 NSW GROUP SALES MANAGER, STYLE Cheyne Hall 02 8045 4667 NSW KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER, STYLE Kate Corbett 02 8045 4737 NSW KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER, STYLE Catherine Patrick 02 8045 4613 HEAD OF STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Hannah David-Wright 02 8045 4986 PROJECT MANAGER, PARTNERSHIPS Kate Dwyer 02 9288 1009 DIRECT SALES MANAGER, EXTENSION TITLES Francesca Mackay DIGITAL BRAND MANAGER, STYLE Kristina Karassoulis 02 9288 1743 SENIOR CAMPAIGN IMPLEMENTATION MANAGER Sophie Gallagher NSW ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES, STYLE Eliza Connor 02 9288 7640, Garineh Torossian 02 8045 4653 VIC SALES DIRECTOR, STYLE Karen Clements 03 9292 3202 VIC GROUP BUSINESS MANAGER Nadine Denison 03 9292 3224 VIC HEAD OF DIRECT SALES & PARTNERSHIPS Jo Constable 03 9292 3203 VIC ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE, STYLE Sarah-Jane Bacon 02 9292 3208 VIC CAMPAIGN IMPLEMENTATION MANAGER, STYLE
PRODUCTION MANAGER Michelle O’Brien ADVERTISING PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Robynne Beavan GENERAL MANAGER RETAIL & CIRCULATION Brett Willis SUBSCRIPTIONS ACQUISITION MANAGER Grant Durie SUBSCRIPTIONS RETENTION MANAGER Crystal Ewins GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL Stuart Fagg DIGITAL ASSETS & RIGHTS MANAGER Trudy Biernat DIGITAL ASSETS & RIGHTS COORDINATOR Jessica Richmond HEAD OF PRODUCT DESIGN Alex Fawdray DIGITAL DESIGNER Yeara Chaham MARKETING DIRECTOR Diana Kay DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Shannon Wylie BRAND MANAGER Rachel Christian EVENTS MARKETING MANAGER Natalie Headland EVENTS MANAGER Danielle Isenberg EVENTS MANAGER Genevieve McCaskill MARKETING COORDINATOR Shelby Allen
Rebecca Rodell 03 9292 1951 QLD COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR, LIFESTYLE
Rose Wegner 07 3666 6903 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Rebecca White 1300 139 305 ASIA Kim Kenchington (852) 2882 1106 ADVERTISING CREATIVE DIRECTOR Richard McAuliffe ADVERTISING CREATIVE MANAGER Eva Chown ADVERTISING CREATIVE PRODUCERS Jenny Hayes, Sarah Mury
PUBLISHER, NEWS PRESTIGE NETWORK Nicholas Gray EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CONDÉ NAST TITLES Edwina McCann MANAGING EDITOR CONDÉ NAST TITLES Louise Bryant DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Sharyn Whitten GENERAL MANAGER, PRESTIGE Andrew Cook
CREATIVE SERVICES SENIOR ART DIRECTORS
Caryn Isemann, Amanda Anderson ADVERTISING COPY EDITORS Annette Farnsworth,
Brooke Lewis, Robert Badman
AUSTRALIA magazine is published by NewsLifeMedia (ACN 088 923 906), Level 1, 2 Holt Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. NewsLifeMedia is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178). Copyright 2018 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. Address: 2 Holt Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. Tel: (02) 9288 3000. Email: editorial@gq.com.au Advertising tel: (02) 9353 6666, fax: (02) 9353 6600. Creative Services fax: (02) 9353 6611. Melbourne Office: HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006. Tel: (03) 9292 3200, fax: (03) 9292 1695. Brisbane Office: 26 Chermside Street, Newstead, Qld 4006. Tel: (07) 3620 2000, fax: (07) 3620 2001. Distributed by Gordon & Gotch Australia Pty Ltd, tel: 1300 650 666. Printed by PMP Limited, Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL JONATHAN NEWHOUSE, Chairman and Chief Executive WOLFGANG BLAU, President
LACK BAY BRONZE
TUDOR WATCHES ARE AVAILABLE AT: SYDNEY Gregory Jewellers Bondi Junction 02 9389 8822, Gregory Jewellers Brookvale 02 8935 1660, Gregory Jewellers Burwood 02 9715 3866, Gregory Jewellers Chatswood 02 9884 8900 Gregory Jewellers Parramatta 02 9633 5500, J Farren Price 02 9231 3299, Kennedy 02 9518 9499, Swiss Concept Sydney 02 9221 6288, Swiss Concept Hurstville 02 9580 8826 The Hour Glass 02 9221 2288, Watches of Switzerland 02 9251 0088 MELBOURNE Kennedy 03 9686 7900, The Hour Glass 03 9650 6988, Watches of Switzerland Melbourne 03 9671 3388 Watches
of
Switzerland
International
Airport
03
9338
0882
BRISBANE
JR
Watch
Co.
International
Airport
07
3860
1333,
Langfords
Jewellers
07
3210
0614
The Hour Glass 07 3221 9133 ADELAIDE J Farren-Price 08 8223 2787 PERTH Kennedy 08 6169 3695, Smales Jewellers 08 9382 3222, Watches of Switzerland 08 9322 8800
SU B SC R I B E AN D R EC E IVE
A BONUS GIFT THE BIG STYLE ISSUE KILLER T R E N D S, W A T C H E S, S H O E S, HOTELS & MORE
CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL Chairman and Chief Executive Jonathan Newhouse President Wolfgang Blau THE CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL GROUP OF BRANDS INCLUDES: UK Vogue, House & Garden, Brides, Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, Condé Nast Johansens, GQ Style, Love, Wired, Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design, Ars Technica FRANCE Vogue, Vogue Hommes, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections, GQ, AD Collector, Vanity Fair, GQ Le Manuel du Style, Glamour Style ITALY Vogue, Glamour, AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, Wired, La Cucina Italiana GERMANY Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Wired SPAIN Vogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Vogue Niños, Condé Nast Traveler, Vogue Colecciones, Vogue Belleza, Glamour, AD, Vanity Fair JAPAN Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding
LOSING STREAK
NEW WORLD ORDER FASHION'S BIGGEST PLAYERS
AFL'S HIDDEN GAMBLING CRISIS
HOW TO PLAY THE PROPERTY GAME THE PSYCHEDELICS TACKLING MENTAL ILLNESS
TAIWAN Vogue, GQ, Interculture MEXICO AND LATIN AMERICA Vogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico, AD Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America, Vanity Fair Mexico INDIA Vogue, GQ, Condé Nast Traveller, AD PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE: BRAZIL Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour RUSSIA Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Tatler, Glamour Style Book PUBLISHED UNDER LICENSE OR COPYRIGHT COOPERATION: AUSTRALIA Vogue, Vogue Living, GQ
SHARPER. SMARTER. BETTER.
Kendrick lamar
POET, PULITZER-WINNER, GENIUS
BULGARIA Glamour CHINA Vogue, AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Style, Brides, Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, Vogue Me CZECH REPUBLIC AND SLOVAKIA La Cucina Italiana HUNGARY Glamour ICELAND Glamour KOREA Vogue, GQ, Allure, W
NEVER MISS AN ISSUE OF GQ. SUBSCRIBE NOW FROM JUST $64.95*
SUBSCRIBE NOW Visit magsonline.com.au/gq/M1809GQS or call 1300 656 933 and quote M1809GQS *AUTO RENEWAL PRINT SUBSCRIPTION OFFER OF $64.95 WILL BE CHARGED TO YOUR CREDIT CARD FOR THE FIRST 12 MONTHS (8 ISSUES), THEN $64.95 AUTOMATIC CREDIT CARD PAYMENT EVERY 12 MONTHS (8 ISSUES) THEREAFTER. AUTOMATIC PAYMENTS WILL CONTINUE FOR YOUR SUBSCRIPTION UNLESS OTHERWISE ADVISED BY YOU OR UNTIL THE NOMINATED CREDIT CARD EXPIRES. YOU CAN CANCEL ANY TIME. BONUS GIFT AVAILABLE FOR AUSTRALIAN DELIVERY ONLY. A STANDARD ONEYEAR SUBSCRIPTION CONSISTS OF EIGHT ISSUES. OFFER ENDS OCTOBER 7, 2018.
MIDDLE EAST Vogue, Condé Nast Traveller, AD, Vogue Café at The Dubai Mall POLAND Glamour PORTUGAL Vogue, GQ ROMANIA Glamour RUSSIA Vogue Café Moscow, Tatler Club Moscow SOUTH AFRICA House & Garden, GQ, Glamour, House & Garden Gourmet, GQ Style, Glamour Hair THE NETHERLANDS Vogue, Glamour, Vogue The Book, Vogue Man, Vogue Living THAILAND Vogue, GQ, Vogue Lounge Bangkok TURKEY Vogue, GQ UKRAINE Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev CONDÉ NAST USA President and Chief Executive Officer Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr. Artistic Director Anna Wintour Vogue, Vanity Fair, Glamour, Brides, Self, GQ, GQ Style, The New Yorker, Condé Nast Traveler, Allure, AD, Bon Appétit, Epicurious, Wired, W, Golf Digest, Golf World, Teen Vogue, Ars Technica, The Scene, Pitchfork, Backchannel
G Q . C O M . AU
The comprehensive online guide to eats, drinks and merriments across our great nation.
Hobart’s best hotels
Nowhere does hospitality quite like the Apple Isle, and Tasmania’s capital now has some of the coolest boutique hotels in Australia to match the friendly vibes. See more at GQ.com.au
GQ IQ
WORDS: BRAD NASH. MAIN PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY.
SAFARI SNAPS
Huawei’s new ‘P20 Pro’, with its Leicaproduced camera and insane specs, is a smartphone that aims to put the traditional tech giants on notice. To test its capabilities, Huawei took GQ on safari in South Africa – and it did not disappoint.
Cheese, cheese and more cheese
GQ SHORTS
Our latest online series focuses on the most unique and creative artisan craftsmen Australia has to offer. Under the spotlight this month: Wenley Andrews, the meticulous Aussie custom motorbike builder whose beefed-up cafe racer bikes get petrol-heads excited the world over. SUBSCRIBE TO GQ AUSTRALIA ON YOUTUBE TO SEE MORE.
We took a look at Sydney and Melbourne’s incredible cheese emporiums, stocking fromages revered around the globe. See more at GQ.com.au
A weekend in Mudgee
Stocked to the brim with food, wine and colonial-era architecture, we look at all the ways to spend a few days in NSW’s hottest new road-trip destination. See more at GQ.com.au
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
53
THE AGENDA BY DR TIM SHARP
54
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY.
Y
situation, and even over time oung boys, especially as we age and mature. during adolescence, are We each need to ind our own version; often told to ‘man up’ which may well be different to that or to ‘be a man’. They’re chosen by our fathers and at some stage told to be tough and not by our sons, and different again to our to cry; but the ‘advice’ is usually vague. friends and colleagues. We need to Typically, if these recommendations are accept, ideally without judgement, other explored a bit further, the idea of being people’s deinitions of manhood; just a man is synonymous with aggressiveness, because two men are different doesn’t competitiveness, physical and sexual mean one is right and the other is wrong. (and particularly heterosexual) strength, This might not seem like such along with a disregard for – or absence a radical idea but if you’ve only ever of – emotional expression. observed one style of manhood, it can It should be noted that not all of these prove dificult to even comprehend attributes are entirely bad. In context alternative versions. From where, then, and in moderation, a few may have a can we learn about these different place in the life of an adult male. But it’s options and begin to contemplate also important to note that research has whether or not they might be suitable found these characteristics traditionally A H E A D O F FAT H E R ’ S DAY, or appropriate for us? associated with manhood and FO U N D E R O F T H E H A P P I N E S S Start by looking around you. I’m not masculinity are also more likely to INSTITUTE AND CO-HOST OF suggesting any new type of man needs be associated with drug and alcohol P O D CAS T ‘ B E A M A N ’ D I S C U S S E S T H E I M P O R TA N C E O F P O S I T I V E to be created. Others have suggested problems, violence and mental ill-health. MALE ROLE MODELS. we need a ‘new manhood’ for the 21st Accordingly, boys are turning in to ‘real men’, and our ‘real men’ are dying. century, but I disagree. I think we That’s right, they’re literally dying. already have it. In fact, I think we already have several versions of 21st Men die signiicantly younger than women (on average); and century men that serve as fantastically positive models for us, our three times more men take their life each and every day compared to brothers and our sons. If you’re observant, you’ll see them at work, women. Suicide is the leading cause of death for men aged between at the football, sitting in your cafe, pub or gym. 18 and 45 in Australia and although the aforementioned traits can’t Another way you can experience the range of masculinities is to be blamed entirely for this outcome, there’s no doubt they play read and/or listen more broadly. In the Be a Man podcast series, for a signiicant role. example, Gus Worland and I interview a broad range of people, each The situation is made worse by the fact that our role models, if of whom describe different lives and different ways they’ve learned we have any at all, are usually limited to one person, our biological to become men. From professional sportsmen, football players and father, or at most a few people, usually those in our immediate family. boxers, to successful businessmen, writers and social advocates, There’s nothing wrong at all with having father igures – literally a sexologist and the journalist who drove the #MeToo movement or metaphorically. But we often forget that these people are far from in Australia, Tracey Spicer. All manner of varieties of men are perfect, and they learned from those who were far from perfect. discussed and considered. Even if they did get it right for them, that doesn’t mean it’s right Also, look among your family, friends, colleagues and others. for those who follow – time and social norms change and so too Who do you admire? Why do you admire them? What, exactly should perceptions of masculinity. do they do and how can you do more of it? The good news, however, is that there are alternatives to these Look into yourself and ask what qualities and attributes you’re most scenarios and to the vicious cycle that seems to have been on repeat happy with; but consider too, whether you’re just doing or thinking for far too long now. something because “that’s what dad did”. I’m sure your dad, like mine In fact, I believe a major part of the answer to the complex question and many others out there, was trying his best. But that doesn’t mean of masculinity is to begin by coming to an understanding that there’s he was 100 per cent right all of the time or that what worked for him not just one answer; rather, we need to accept that there are is necessarily going to work for you. ‘masculinities’ – plural. That is, multiple types of manhood that varies Don’t just be a man; be your man. from person to person and even within one person, from situation to drhappy.com.au
BRIEF WHAT’S TRENDING IN POP CU LT U R E R IGH T NOW
T H E
E D I T E D BY JAKE M I LL AR
SUITCASE GOALS A STYLISH NEW C O L L A B O R AT I O N T H AT P R OV E S T R AV E L CA N STILL BE GLAMOROUS.
T H E
AFTER SMASHING THE BOX OFFICE WITH A QUIET PLACE , EARLIER THIS YEAR, ACTOR JOHN KRASINSKI W I L L S TA R I N T H E T V A D A P TAT I O N O F J A C K RYA N . I T P R E M I E R E S O N A M A Z O N P R I M E V I D E O O N A U G U S T 3 1 .
A $ A P R O C K Y, B R O C K H A M P T O N A N D G R I M E S T A R S K E P T A W I L L T O U C H D O W N I N A U S T R A L I A T O P L AY L I S T E N O U T. S E P T E M B E R 2 2 - 3 0 ; L I S T E N O U T. C O M . A U
T H E
MUSIC
New season sounds
write like homeR We’re talking ancient Greece, not Springfield. But just because your chances of writing the next Iliad are slim, that doesn’t mean you should settle on a mediocre pen. Quite the opposite. Thankfully, stationery maison Montblanc’s ‘Homage to Homer Limited Edition’ fountain pen will have your shorthand looking and feeling convincingly impressive. MONTBLANC.COM
‘WRITERS EDITION HOMAGE TO HOMER LIMITED EDITION’ FOUNTAIN PEN, $6920, BY MONTBLANC.
Over time, this bronze chronograph will age to become as individual as its inspiration: Carl Brashear, the US Navy’s ďŹ rst AfricanAmerican and amputee Master Diver. A daily reminder of the power of human potential.
Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition
davidjones.com
House of Spring 2018
Rag & Bone, Jac+ Jack
AUSTRALIA
.com.au YOUR GUIDE TO ALL THINGS
STYLE GROOMING LIFESTYLE FITNESS ENTERTAINMENT SUCCESS SEX
A H A N D F U L O F B I G A LB U M S A R E S E T TO D R O P SO O N , I N C LU D I N G T R OY E S I VA N ’S B LO O M , AU G 3 1; PAU L M C C A R T N E Y ’ S E GYPT STATI O N , S E P T 7; A N D J O S H G R O B A N ’S B R I D G E S , S E P T 2 1 .
T H E
FASHION
Jewellery gets dope
TH E MAKI NG OF MOON R IVE R
A$AP Ferg and Elle Fanning teamed up to breathe new life into the Breakfast at Tiffany’s awardwinning arrangement. And they did. The track is dangerously catchy – so is the campaign video it scores – and Ferg’s infectious lyrics haul the 1961 Henry Mancini original into 2018.
TH E L AST BOO K BY STE PH E N HAW KI N G, B R I E F AN SW E RS TO TH E B IG Q U ESTION S, WILL HIT STORES ON OCTOBER 16; HACHETTE.COM,AU
T H E
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
‘Evening coming in on Sydney Harbour’ (1975) by Brett Whiteley; ‘The tunnel’ (1966) by George Baldessin; ‘MM of Rue St Denis’ (1976) by George Baldessin; ‘Sacred baboon’ (1975) by Brett Whiteley‘.
ART
Whiteley meets Baldessin G E T YO U R C U LT U R E F I X C O U R T E SY O F T H E S E AU S S I E G R E AT S .
T
hey moved in separate circles – Brett Whiteley was from Sydney and George Baldessin spent the bulk of his career in Melbourne. But aside from the distance between them, these artists were closer than you might expect. They were born in the same year, they were both attracted to existentialist ideas and created art that spoke directly to their time, with both dying tragically young. Trust the National Gallery of Victoria to connect the dots and curate a show that draws nuanced connections between the work and visions of the two. Later this month, Baldessin/Whiteley: Parallel Visions will bring together some of the artist’s most iconic works as well as pieces that have never been exhibited before. Basically, it’s bound to be a banger. AUGUST 31 2018-JANUARY 28 2019; NGV.VIC.GOV.AU
FRESH OFF HER APPEARANCE IN MAMMA MIA! HERE WE GO AGAIN, CHER WILL BRING HER HERE WE GO AGAIN TOUR DOWN UNDER, FROM SEPTEMBER 26-OCTOBER 18.
T H E
FILM
LIKED The Predator franchise WATCH
The Predator (Obviously) One of the most lethal hunters in the universe is back and deadlier than ever – cue US Marines, gunfights a-go-go, and plenty of gore. You know the drill here. But there’s a reason the franchise has already survived six iterations. And here’s a hint - it isn’t the dialogue. “Predators don’t just sit around making hats out of ribcages,” Sterling K Brown quips at one point. “They conquered space.” The man deserves an Oscar just for keeping a straight face. IN CINEMAS SEPTEMBER 13
What to watch now W H O N E E D S A S T R E A M I N G A LG O R I T H M , W H E N YO U H AV E O U R P I C K O F T H E B E S T N E W B I G - S C R E E N R E L E AS E S?
LIKED WATCH LIKED WATCH
LIKED WATCH LIKED WATCH
SYD N E Y’S ANTI DOTE F ESTIVAL W I LL R E TU R N, W ITH C H E LS E A M AN N I N G AN D B LAC K PANTH E R AU T H O R TA - N E H I S I C OAT E S A M O N G T H E S P E A K E R S; S E P T E M B E R 1 - 2; SYD N E YO P E R A H O U S E . C O M
T H E
BOOKS
DESIGN
Stylish new releases
FROM MEMOIRS TO PHOTOGRAPH IC COLLECTIONS, WE PR ESENT FOU R BOOKS WORTHY OF ANY ASPI RING FASH ION ISTO.
Berluti means business
B Y D AV I D C A S A VA N T BY STAN SMI T H
Sleek, angular, compact – not the models in Berluti’s new campaign, but the latest addition to the brand’s leathergoods family. Crafted from Venezia leather, the ‘Un Jour Mini’ briefcase is available in a range of colours, specially created to celebrate the opening of Berluti’s Sydney boutique. They are now available exclusively at the store, which will focus on leather goods, shoes and accessories; while the Melbourne lagship will also stock ready-to-wear. Stay tuned for more good news from Berluti, when Kris Van Assche’s debut collection hits the runway in January. $4200; berluti.com
CELEBRATE RACE DAY IN STYLE. Be the best dressed man at this year’s Spring Carnival with our Occasion Collection; featuring statement suits, colourful shirts and silk accessories.
T H E
B R I N G I N G T H E W O N D E R O F K O R E A N C U LT U R E T O T H E C I N E M A S C R E E N , T H E K O R E A N F I L M F E S T I V A L I N AUSTRALIA WILL VISIT MELBOURNE AND CANBERRA DURING SEPTEMBER; KOFFIA .COM. AU
TELEVISION
Matt Groening’s next move
CELEBRATE RACE DAY IN STYLE. Be the best dressed man at this year’s Spring Carnival with our Occasion Collection; featuring statement suits, colourful shirts and silk accessories.
T H E
THE CAST OF ICONIC ’90S TV SHOW TWIN PEAKS WILL TOUR AUSTRALIA FROM AUG 29-SEPT 2, GIVING FAN S TH E C HANC E TO M E ET TH E ACTORS B E H I N D C HAR ACTE RS LI KE L AU R A PALM E R AN D DE PUT Y HAW K .
who’s in it? Disenchantment features a mix of established names and emerging talent - including one of Australia’s own.
ABBI JACOBSON Broad City’s co-creator stars as Princess Bean.
ERIC ANDRÉ The comedian voices Princess Bean’s personal demon, Luci.
JOHN DIMAGGIO He appears as King Zög but you’ll remember him as Futurama’s Bender.
NOEL FIELDING One half of The Mighty Boosh, he joins the cast as guest actor.
RICH FULCHER Another guest star, the comedian also appears on Rick and Morty.
ADAM BRIGGS The Aussie artist scored himself a role as screenwriter on the show.
“I don’t mean to sound blasé but the whole thing is just fun.”
DENIM
EXPOSURE
STELLA ARTOIS IN PARIS
FROM TOP
Jiawa Liu and Kurt Ji; former GQ Australia editors Nick Smith and Grant Pearce.
Taking place during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Stella Artois hosted one of its famous Sensorium dinners at critically acclaimed eatery L’Acajou. One of the top restaurants in Paris, it’s owned by worldrenowned chef Jean Imbert and is often frequented by the likes of Margot Robbie, Robert De Niro, Pharrell Williams and Virgil Abloh. For the Sensorium, former GQ Chef of the Year Guillaume Brahimi teamed up with Imbert to create a seven-course, one-off Stella Artois menu. Guests were treated to sea bass tartare with inger lime, caviar and smoked oyster cream then Brittany lobster served with string beans and Parisian sprouts. Not to mention Stella Artois on tap – and lots of it.
CLOCKWISE FROM CENTRE
GQ’s Mike Christensen mid cheers; The Iconic’s Tom Simpson; Jean Imbert, David Abela and Guillaume Brahimi; Max Kruse and Sam Wines.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
77
I
t must be the most commonly asked question in the world, a rote pleasantry that’s answered on autopilot. “Fine, thanks. You?” The trouble, for some of us, is that it’s just not true. We are not OK, thanks. In some supericial respects, men have never looked after themselves very well, but when it comes to real wellness – our mental health – the stats are depressing. According to the Men’s Health Forum in the UK, men account for 73 per cent of adults who go missing, 87 per cent of rough sleepers and 95 per cent of the prison population. And since 2007, suicide rates amongst men aged 45 to 59 have shot up by 40 per cent to make this the highest risk demographic. Truly a mid-life crisis. Why? It’s a question far too many bereaved families and friends are left to ponder in their grief. Even in 2018, men are trapped by stereotype. Gender conditioning takes place from birth when boys are dressed in blue, girls in pink. Boys are told to toughen up, creating men who are uncomfortable showing apparent weakness or admitting failure. We put on a front, a ilter. We say we’re ‘ine, thanks’ even when we’re not. Comparison to an impossible ideal – the peer pressure to feel like you should be doing something or to be something you’re not – is a mental-health issue in itself that can lead to depressive thoughts, low self-esteem and anxiety. Though societal expectations are changing, it’s still not in our culture to talk openly about feelings and emotions so when we lose control of them, we’re ill-equipped to deal with it. Many of the alpha male traits that make men ‘men’ – toughness, competitiveness, 78
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
DAN ROOKWOOD
YOU MAY SAY YOU’RE FINE, BUT: ARE YOU OK? stoicism – are the same traits that ‘unmake’ us. They leave us more vulnerable to mental-health problems but less likely to be open about it or to seek help before it spirals out of control. Might this partly explain those suicide stats? Ask men about work, sport or Donald Trump’s latest fuckwittery, and we’ll talk till closing time. We’ve no issues interacting on a surface level. But beneath the banter and bluster? There is so much we do not talk about. Certainly if the conversation veers towards mental wellbeing, things often get awkward. We fall silent. And silence can be deadly. Suicide is, of course, the extreme but mental health is a spectrum and we’re all on it. Even those people to whom you unfairly compare yourself – whether on social media or in your social circle – have their own issues. Mental health does not discriminate, no-one is immune. It affects every Tom, Dick and Prince Harry. As the latter said during a speech on World Mental Health Day in 2016, “Too often we think mental-health problems
are things that happen to other people, not us. But we will all experience pressure on our mental health at some point during our lives. The more we accept that, the better we can help each other. Catching it and recognising it early saves lives. It’s time we ended the shame around mental health – the fear of judgment that stops people talking or getting help.” The suicide earlier this year of much-loved food writer/TV presenter Anthony Bourdain brought this issue back to the fore. We talked about it, we read articles about it, we saw dozens of posts on our timelines with hashtags such as #itsoknottobeok and #checkonallyourfriends. In the rush hour of life – the peak busyness of career or parenthood – we can neglect to make time for ourselves when we need it, and for our friends when they need it. This was brought home to me very recently. I’m in a WhatsApp group with 12 former work colleagues called ‘The Survivors’ – a band of brothers bound together by having withstood a toxic ofice environment years ago from which several of us still bear mental scars to this day. Generally speaking, the chat is dominated by the usual piss-taking and meme-sharing but we also know from past shared experience that we need to look out for each other. Recently we learned via a subset of the group that one of our number has suffered a breakdown. “Guys, I’m really worried about him,” read the text. “We need to rally round.” And so we are. In among the thread of conversation that followed, this line stuck out. “It’s not mental health, it’s just health. Until we see mental health on a par with physical health, the stigma won’t go away.” Ain’t that the truth. So I ask once again, are you OK? R U OK Day is on September 13; ruok.org.au
PHOTOGRAPHY: GIUSEPPE SANTAMARIA .
THE
W O R D S DAVI D SM I E DT P H OTO G R A P H Y HARO LD DAVI D
RICHARD ROXBURGH O N E O F AU S T R A L I A’ S M O S T B E LOV E D AC T I N G TA L E N T S, T H E S TA R O F S TAG E A N D S C R E E N R E F L E C T S O N M O D E R N M AS C U L I N I T Y, A B C B U D G E T C U T S, H I S M O S T C E L E B R AT E D R O L E A N D W H Y YO U ’ L L N E V E R F I N D H I M O N S O C I A L M E D I A .
T
here are certain constants in the Australian media landscape. Interminable days of test cricket; neighbourhood disputes masquerading as current affairs; reality TV contestants endlessly discussing ‘plating up’ dishes. Some are sliding into irrelevancy, while others acquire a burnished patina of unassailable reliability. No prizes for guessing which camp Richard Roxburgh falls into. Whether imparting his own stamp on igures we already know well (Bob Hawke, Roger Rogerson, to mention just two) or those which we’d merely like to meet (Rake’s protagonist Cleaver Greene), Roxburgh conjures a sense of debauched dishevelled debonair. All shot through with a mischievous erudition sorely missing from a generation of budding public igures who require Teleprompters and Instagram managers to supply them with personality. Better still, he’s not one for trying to shill you a coffee machine or a vitamin shake. All Roxburgh is selling is the quality of his work. On the eve of season ive of Rake, the 56-year-old sat down with GQ to talk stage, screen, social media – and who the hell his most famous character is actually based on.
GQ: As time goes by, are you finding Cleaver Greene is an easier cloak to slip on or are there still challenges for you? Richard Roxburgh: Slipping into Cleaver has become really second nature over time and it’s kind of become incredibly familiar. But the process itself, and the work that goes into the creation of the experience, in some ways has gotten more demanding, as time’s gone on. I guess because we keep reconiguring where the bar lies so we’re constantly trying to work on it more, to not rest on our laurels. GQ: A part of Rake’s longevity has been the support it’s received from the ABC. As an Australian institution it feels increasingly under threat. RR: The ABC plays an extraordinarily important part in our cultural landscape. The ABC is all about, obviously, creating Australian work, so it’s where we see relected our own voices and the wonder of who we are – that’s all on the ABC. It’s terribly disheartening to see the constant cutbacks that are being inlicted, and it will show over time. There will cease to be the dramas that we love and the parallels with BBC dramas will gradually wither on the vine unless we’re incredibly careful. Once that infrastructure is gone, once you have kneecapped the ABC,
it will not be able to move, there will be nowhere to go. That would be a crying shame. GQ: Do you see the likes of Netflix and Stan moving to fill that space? RR: There’s no question that streaming companies are doing great work, but at the moment they are under absolutely no compunction to put anything back into creation of local work. And unless things change, there’s a problem here. GQ: Do think the inherent Australian-ness of Rake and particularly its protagonist Cleaver Greene is part of its success? RR: There’s so much about Cleaver that is, I suppose, some of the stuff we love about Australia. He’s irreverent, he doesn’t give a damn, he’s kind of iconoclastic. There was an attempt to do an American version, but that loundered, I guess in part, because of the fact that, quintessentially, it is Australian. GQ: That, and the fact squeaky-clean Greg Kinnear was the lead in the US version. Over time, Rake has moved from being as much about the lead character as it is reflecting on debates raging in Australia. RR: We’ve always tried to keep abreast of what’s going on. We’ve been quite fortunate in that way. In the last season, Cleaver was running for Senate and won – and what was fantastic is that the night that episode was broadcast was the night of the national election. People were uploading shots of their voting papers on Instagram with an extra box for Cleaver Greene written on the oficial form. GQ: Let’s get this settled, once and for all: is Greene based on infamous Sydney barrister Charles Waterstreet? He tried to sue the production over it. RR: That came to nothing because there was nothing there to begin with. The character is not based on anyone. Cleaver’s life bears no resemblance to that of Charles Waterstreet apart from the fact that he’s a criminal barrister. GQ: Do you think the case turned into good publicity for the show, anyway? RR: I think it turned into publicity for Charles – and Charles likes his publicity. GQ: You have a zero presence on social media. Why is that? RR: I just don’t like the bastard. I don’t trust where it’s taking us. There is great value in some ways – for instance, I suspect that the Coles and Woolworths ban on plastics may not have happened prior to social media. But I don’t want my kids being the experimental generation, where we see just see what happens. GQ: You’re raising two boys in the post-MeToo era. That must bring its own challenges?
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
81
82
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
“women won’t put up with stuff they used to have to... those days are gone.” reinement. There’s a kind of Zen in theatre and if I don’t do it for long periods, I miss it in the same way as one might miss going to the gym. It’s my irst love. I love the live experience. I love the laughter. I love the silence. There’s nothing more profound than the feeling of when a show is absolutely hitting a moment of, for want of a better word, a kind of perfect truth. GQ: In the past, you’ve described yourself as ‘a collector of mannerisms’ where you would view people on a bus or a train or whatever, and those things
FOR MORE OF RICHARD ROXBURGH, CHECK OUT VAN HEUSEN’S LATEST ‘MENTORS’ CAMPAIGN; VANHEUSEN.COM.AU
RR: It’s important to talk to them. I feel like my boys know that if they have any questions about anything, I would be the irst person they could come to. Honestly, respect is engendered in the home, and so if you see your parents in a respectful, loving relationship, the most important lesson you can ever teach them is the way that you treat one another. Beyond that, it’s conversations, and obviously as they enter their teenage years, those conversations are more tricky, because there’s more at stake now than there used to be. There’s more at stake because of porn, because of the online environment, because of social media and bullying. The world’s changed, but not the fundamental characteristics I was inculcated with, about how you treat women. I think that those things haven’t really changed. GQ: There’s also been a spate of retrospective outrage, recently. RR: I’m looking forward to the lurry and the heat to go out of this stuff. It’s unfortunate to go back over people’s history and to judge them. Unless it’s Weinstein or you’re obviously a monster who’s done appalling and illegal things. GQ: Switching from the removal of tech to the immediacy of theatre, live performance has been a consistent part of your resumé. What’s the allure for you? RR: It’s great conditioning as an actor. It forces you to constantly have to do the hard yards of reinvention, of going back to the simple matter of inding truth. It’s an act of
would bubble to the surface again in a later performance. Is the collection full or is it an ongoing thing? RR: I don’t think it is full. I’m constantly riveted by humans, by what we do, by the way we are, and maybe when the collection is full, that might be a sign that it’s time to hang up the tights. GQ: You’re 56 now and have clearly lived through several iterations of Australian masculinity. Where is it that Aussie men need to lift our collective game in 2018? RR: We’ve come a long way in a very short time, and I think that’s why everybody’s heads are still spinning. I feel that it’s incredibly important that we learn what’s expected of us, that women won’t put up with stuff that they used to have to and those days are gone. GQ: And what about men’s interest in fashion - what’s the definition of style for Richard Roxburgh? RR: Style is knowing who you are, as opposed to the way everybody thinks you or a man of your age should look. It’s whatever you carve out over time and what you think is the most simple, rendered-down outward deinition of your inward self. GQ: What does contentment mean to you right now? And do you have moments where you think you’ve made it? RR: I never, for a moment, feel that I’ve made it. I do have moments of great contentment and that’s important because, otherwise, what are we doing all of this for? And they’re kind of weird, blessed moments, and sometimes for me it’s when I’m in the hurly burly with my people or my family that they occur. Sometimes it’s also when I’m away and I can look at them as what I’m missing, and love it so much and feel to be in a blessed state. But that’s nothing to do, really, with feeling like I’ve made it. And that’s probably better because that’d be another sign for me to say, ‘OK, time to retire’. GQ: Looking back, what advice would you give your younger self – the youngest of six in a family from Albury with dreams of an actor’s life? RR: I guess I would say: it’s OK. Bet on yourself, back yourself and trust the talent will allow it. If you have a modicum of talent, keep working on it and trusting it, then eventually it will be seen. Also, spend less time fretting. I spent so much time worrying about the minutiae as a younger man, and there were a great deal of perfectly productive hours that went into the enormous dustbin of worry. Season ive of Rake is airing now on ABC
&A
Jacket, $320, shirt, $69.95, pants, $179, tie, $54.95, tie bar, $34,95, and belt, $59.95, all by Van Heusen. Styling David Bonney.
“ T O U R I S T S D O N ’ T K N O W W H E R E T H E Y ’ V E B E E N , T R AV E L L E R S D O N ’ T K NOW W H E R E T H EY ’ R E G O I NG .” PA U L T H E R O U X
TASTE TRAVEL
FROM THE LU X U R I O U S TO THE OUTRIGHT R I D I C U LO U S, S PA N N I N G N E W Z E A L A N D, E C UA D O R , I TA LY, U SA A N D M O R E , GQ PRESENTS
The world’s most stylish hotels WO R DS AMY CAM PB E LL
Amangiri
C A N YO N P O I N T, U TA H
Amangiri makes a good case for travelling to the middle of nowhere. A tranquil sandstone hamlet that sits among the rocky mesas of America’s Grand Circle region, this bare-boned hacienda is designed so you’re never quite sure whether you’re outside or in. And that’s a good thing. Each of Amangiri’s 34 suites strike the optimal balance between strippedback and sybaritic, with private terraces that reach toward the cavernous expanse outside. Respect for the Navajo people, the original custodians of the land, can be felt in nuanced accents throughout the resort. Treatments in the spa, for example, have been designed in collaboration with Navajo natives from the neighbouring American Indian reservation. BEST BIT With the Colorado River on your doorstep, it’s built for those who love a hike. Also, hotstone massages. HOW MUCH? Suites start at
WHERE T O STAY
PENINSULA PARIS While a stay in the City of Lights can sometimes mean shoebox-sized rooms and old-fashioned amenities, Peninsula Paris is anything but. Its guest rooms and suites are among the largest in the city, which is impressive when you consider it’s just a waddle from the Arc de Triomphe. Oh, and you’ll be grateful for the awardwinning spa after the flight. paris.peninsula.com
MOR NINGTON PENINSULA, VICTORIA
PHOTOGRAPHY FOR JACKALOPE: SHARYN CAIRNS ; FOR HOTEL VERNET: DESIGN HOTELS™.
HOTEL VERNET It feels more like a private lair than a hotel – one that’s been designed and decorated by someone with a highly tuned eye. Blending its Belle Époque origins – which include a glass dome in the Michelin-starred Le V restaurant, designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel – with artsy splashes of colour, copper and marble finishes. It’s a resting place fit for the aesthete. hotelvernet-paris.com
LE PIGALLE Once a neon-lit red-light district, Pigalle is now an enclave pulsing with culture and activity – and that’s exactly what this hotel captures, with art by local creatives, baked goods delivered by nearby patisseries and music curated by neighbourhood DJs, Le Pigalle is the place to stay if you wish to immerse yourself in the arrondissement’s Nouvelle Athènes surrounds. lepigalle.paris
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
89
WHERE T O STAY
IN LONDON
THE CAPITAL HOTEL The Capital may be one of the most stylish digs in town, but it’s the hotel’s decadent selection of classes and activities that keep us coming back. Partake in a whisky and cheese-pairing session before slinking across to the hotel’s famed restaurant, Outlaw’s, for one of the best seafood menus the Big Smoke has to offer. capitalhotel.co.uk
O S T U N I , I T A LY
Steeped in the peppery fragrance of wild myrtle that’s sometimes interrupted by the Adriatic’s salty breath, this Masseria – which is Italian for farmhouse – could have been built with Instagram in mind. But beyond its blinding white walls, prickly pear cacti and the resident bulldog, Beppe, the Masseria Moroseta’s magic lies in its simplicity – and kitchen. It’s menu-less, only serving what’s fresh on the day, and being a working farm, guests are also invited to participate in the harvest. Set among a fivehectare olive grove, it’s about as dreamy as reality gets. BEST BIT Fantastic cooking classes and a communal kitchen table encourage introductions. HOW MUCH? Classic rooms start at approx. $235 per night, with suites around $315. Breakfast included. masseriamoroseta.it
If you like the idea of losing yourself among an Alice in Wonderland-esque auberge, then best add London’s coolest hotel, The Mandrake, to your hit list. There’s a bi-weekly Tibetan gong ritual and an artist residency program that’s seen the likes of tattooist Thomas Hooper and photographer Iris Bosch leave their marks on the space (and its guests). themandrake.com
HENRIETTA HOTEL You might expect a boutique hotel in London’s Covent Garden to be a little uptight and snooty, but the Henrietta is downright fun. The sibling of Paris’ lauded Experimental Cocktail Club, every room comes with its own ECC recipe book and minibar brimming with boutique spirits, encouraging guests to engage in a little DIY action. All velvet upholstery and candy-coloured tones, it’s a dash of Parisian energy in London’s West End. henriettahotel.com
PHOTOGRAPHY FOR MASSERIA MOROSETA: SALVA LOPEZ AND MARINA DENISOVA .
Masseria Moroseta
THE MANDRAKE
Fogo Island Inn FOGO ISLAND, NEWFOUNDLAND
Before the stilts of Fogo Inn pierced the stony landmass of this North Atlantic-facing island, it was on the brink of economic extinction. Now, it’s an end-of-the-earth grail for those who like to adventure in style, and, by employing local craftspeople to upholster and furnish the hotel’s belly, it’s breathing life back into the local community. Stretching out over a granite bluff towards Greenland, Fogo Island Inn is tricky to reach but worth the flight, drive and ferry ride. How often do you indulge in a forage-to-table degustation while watching floes creep up Iceberg Alley on their springtime commute? Not often enough, if you ask us. BEST BIT Watch whales gliding past in the summer months and icebergs in winter – all from the comfort of your suite. HOW MUCH? Rooms start at approx. $1920 per night. Price includes all meals and amenities, as well as an Island orientation with a local community host. fogoislandinn.ca
Zaborin H O K K A I D O , J A PA N
In local dialect, Zaborin is the meeting of two words that together, mean ‘to sit and forget among the trees’. Makes sense, considering this intimate ryokan – which affords each of its 15 villas an indoor and outdoor onsen (hot spring) – is one of the most tranquil escapes on earth. It’s stripped back and modernist in design – think warm timbers, concrete and open spaces – which contrast with the juicy green of the Hanazono forest outside. Indulge in the Japanese experience and sleep washitsu (on a futon). If you don’t wish to surrender your Western comforts, though, you can also opt to crash on an actual bed. BEST BIT Hokkaido-raised Chef Seno’s award-winning seasonal kita-kaiseki for guests to graze on, in the hotel’s private dining quarters. HOW MUCH? Rooms start at $910 a night, breakfast and dinner included. zaborin.com
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
91
Huka Lodge
TAU P O , N EW Z E A L A N D
The granddaddy and pioneer of New Zealand’s world-renowned super lodges, Huka is probably the most chic backwoods residence you’ll have the chance to call home for a night. Perched on the banks of the Waikato River, this sprawling property comprises multiple lodge suites, a couple of private ‘cottages’ (though, don’t go expecting a humble log cabin) and 20 different private dining rooms – should you call for a change of scenery. All open fireplaces, taxidermy, whitewashed timber and rolling lawns. BEST BIT More than enough on offer for the outdoorsy types. For everyone else, we suggest a good book and glass of pinot noir. HOW MUCH? Rates are seasonal, but during spring they hover around $820 per guest per night – all inclusive of meals, activities and lodge amenities. hukalodge.co.nz
M A S H PI , E C UA D O R
If you want to dip your toes in to ecotourism without, you know, actually staying in a tent, Mashpi Lodge is hard to beat. and luxury, Mashpi sits at the heart of Ecuador’s Chocó Forest – a so-called ‘diversity hotspot’ that was at risk of deforestation before Mashpi arrived. Not only did the hotel save the land, but it also employed local loggers as staff. And it’s a beautiful space. With clean lines, floorto-ceiling windows and natural light, it’s easy to forget you’re neck-deep in jungle. That is, until you look outside. BEST BIT The hotel has its own research centre and resident biologist, who takes guests on guided tours of the surrounds. includes meals, guided tours, transfers and even a pair of waterproof gumboots. mashpilodge.com
WHERE T O STAY
N NEW YO K
WYTHE HOTEL If you’re not against the gentrification that’s sweeping through Brooklyn like wildfire, Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel is the place to surrender. Among abandoned factories lining the waterfront, rooms at the Wythe enjoy some of Manhattan’s best views. Owned by the forefather of the borough’s culinary renaissance, Andrew Tarlow, its restaurant also proffers a good feed. wythehotel.com
MADE HOTEL
PHOTOGRAPHY: MATTHEW WILLIAMS.
An exception to New York’s budget breed of lower-midtown hotels, Made is 18 storeys of bright, airy rooms with raw timber accents and eclectic décor, as well a coffee shop at the bottom and a hip rooftop bar up top. Housing a chic modern American restaurant and an attractive roll call of regular guests, it’s so cool it could be downtown. madehotels.com
1 HOTEL CENTRAL PARK There are two 1 Hotels in New York, but we’ve chosen the group’s Central Park location because finding a cool place to stay near Central Park can feel a bit like locating a safety pin on a beach without a metal detector. Proof that eco-tourism and luxury aren’t mutually exclusive, this hotel even has a fleet of Teslas available for chauffeuring guests around town. Because, why not? 1hotels.com
Hotel ICELAND
Jutting out over a mountainous lava field, the hotel’s long, rectangular torso was once an abandoned staff-dwelling salvaged from a nearby geothermal power station. It also happens to be perched in one of the best locations to view the Northern Lights, which can be enjoyed from the hotel bar with a warm schnapps in hand. This is just as much a destination for doers as it is for idlers – go diving in a glacial pool or simply pull up a pew in the hotel’s Silfra restaurant and eat ’til your heart’s content. BEST BIT Design geeks will love the hotel’s suspended structure, as well as its commitment to sustainable architecture. HOW MUCH? Suites start at approx. $680 per night. ioniceland.is
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
93
IN GOOD SPIRITS FOR ITS NEWEST CREATION, THIS AUSSIE ICON HAS JOINED FORCES WITH THE WORLD’S MOST POPULAR LIQUOR - AND CHANCES ARE YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF IT.
BAIJIU CHEAT SHEET Penfolds ‘Lot. 518 Spirited Wine with Baijiu’ is best served room temperature. No surprise it pairs well with Chinese food, particularly dishes like beef in black bean sauce.
I
t dates back around 700 years and more than ive billion litres of it are consumed each year, with shots thrown back non-stop at celebrations and weddings. But chances are, you’re probably unaware of Baijiu, China’s most popular hard liquor. The Baijiu consumed today came to be during the Ming Dynasty. Steamed sorghum and other grains are mixed with water then jiuqu, a fermentation kick-starter, is added before distillation takes place. Depending on the style of Baijiu, the spirit is then put in underground jars, mud or brick pits and left to age anywhere from a few months to several decades. The result is a spirit that ranges in potency anywhere from 40-60 per cent ABV. 94
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
But despite its heritage, there’s still room for fresh interpretations. The most recent innovation in the Baijiu category has been led by famed Australian winemaker Penfolds, in its new spirited wine with Baijiu. James Godfrey, Penfolds global fortiied and spirits winemaker, spoke to GQ about his latest concoction. “Looking to create something unique, we experimented with many difference spirits,” he says. “But most just didn’t fuse well with our wine; they imparted too much oak.” Fortiied with both grape spirit and Baijiu to a more modest 21.5 per cent ABV, the release is destined to introduce a new spirit category to Australian, and international, consumers.
“It imparts a wonderful savoury quality,” says Godfrey, “very different to the more common, sweeter wines inluenced by Europe. Cutting back on the sugar also makes the wine pair well with food, while the juicy Australian Shiraz brings forth the well-known cherry and aniseed notes of Penfolds.” Baijiu consumption has been dropping since President Xi Jinping implemented measures to cut unnecessary government spending. This, paired with the country’s younger population looking beyond domestic drinks, suggest Baijiu sales may be at risk. Luckily, brands are eyeing the West as a new market, while Western drinks producers have started to notice China’s best-selling spirit and its potential.
WORDS: GEORGE KOUTSAKIS. PHOTOGRAPHY: EDWARD URRUTIA.
DRINKS
A cut above
T H E JA PA N E S E K N O W A T H I N G O R T W O A B O U T K N I V E S . W H E T H E R YO U WA N T G R E AT VA LU E O R A R E LO O K I N G TO S P L AS H S O M E CAS H , T H E S E A R E O U R TO P P I C KS – J U S T M I N D YO U R F I N G E R S .
3
1 1 . N E NOX ‘CUSTOM B LU E GYUTO 210’, $870
4
For those who love larger knives, this top-of-therange luxury knife will make even the Samurai proud. Its deep-blue bone handles and a hamaguri sharp edge can only be described as silky. 2 . KU ROSAKI ‘SH IZU KU 170MM SANTOKU’, $31 6
With a rare zebrawood handle this ‘R2’ stainlesssteel-clad multi-purpose knife was hammer forged by Kurosaki san in Japan. 3 . MCUSTA ZAN MAI ‘T YPE R 210MM GYUTO’, $280
One of the best-value all-rounders on the planet, the beautiful sculpted red pakkawood handle design joins a R2 powder steel blade for an even better edge retention. 4 . CH E F’S ARMOU RY B ESPOKE ‘FU KU I DAMASCUS 24 0MM GYUTO’, $4 80
The stunning Damascus blades are hammer-forged by artisans in the Fukui prefecture. The core of the blade is made from VG10 stainless-steel wrapped in no fewer than 32 layers of nickel Damascus – and each knife in the range is a bespoke beauty. CHEFSARMOURY.COM
96
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
As an apprentice chef, Matty Matheson’s favourite after-service treat wasn’t so much a particular dish, as a slightly more exotic indulgence: cocaine. But in this new cookbook, the nowsober 32-year-old chef, TV personality and father, offers no such proclivities. Still, the presenter of Viceland’s Dead Set on Life is still not shy of a bit of excess. Matheson’s new book is packed with the memories and lavours that deined who he is. Think Buffalo Sweetbread Sliders and Pigtail Tacos, accompanied by essays and notes from his youth, growing up in Canada. MATTY MATHESON: A COOKBOOK, $49.99; OUT OCTOBER; THAMES ANDHUDSON.COM
Just a light beef, cheese, and blood pudding burger.
WORDS: ANTHONY HUCKSTEP. PHOTOGRAPHY: EDWARD URRUTIA.
2
WATER IS ESSENTIAL TO THE LIVES WE LIVE. Yet today, 663 million people live without access to clean water. Many spend up to 6 hours every day collecting the water they need to survive. That’s why Stella Artois is partnering with Water.org, to help provide people in the developing world with access to clean water. Because we want everyone in the world to have time for the things that are important to them.
find out more at
StellaArtois.com/water
Read fake news in your newsfeed or read accountable, fact-checked reporting. Make the informed choice.
L OOK YOU R SH A R PE ST W I T H OU R EXCLUSI V E EDI T OF T H E BE ST I N M E NSW E A R A N D GROOM I NG T R E N D S
MODELS POSE AT THE END OF THE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHOW DURING MILAN MEN’S SS19 FASHION WEEK IN JUNE.
STYLE
E D I T E D BY O L I V I A H A R D I N G
SS19’S BIGGEST TRENDS F R E S H F R O M T H E R U N WAY, T H I S I S E V E RY T H I N G YO U ’ L L B E W E A R I N G I N T H E M O N T H S A H E A D. WO R DS AMY CAM PB E LL
Sometimes, it can feel like the menswear shows get lost beneath the calamity of the fashion calendar. Womenswear has the spectacle that is haute couture, and traditionally, resort and ready-to-wear shows stretch across a greater number of days and demand more of the industry’s attention. But this season was different. More editors, celebrities, artists and rappers illed the front row than ever before, marking an historic shift of power in the fashion world. Thanks to high-proile designers
making debuts at the major houses, such as Kim Jones for Dior Men and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, all eyes (and anticipations) were on the menswear arena. The shows delivered. In summary, history was made and trends were created. Wearable trends, too – stuff that all of us can actually pull off. Here, we break down the best looks from the spring shows, and the grooming, accessories and atmosphere that helped transform them from ‘looks’ into moments.
S
N TO IT
Wearable wallets At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh and stylist Christine Centenera called it “accessomorphosis” – pieces that exist between garment and accessory. The wearable luggage mood extended beyond LV, with Fendi, Valentino and Heron Preston all getting creative with the bag-on-body theme.
SV U
PRADA
HERMÈS
H ER
MÈ S
LOU I
Very short shorts
SHOW TUNES
Besides the front row, one of the most important parts of any show is atmosphere – and that means music. Here, a playlist of the best tracks from this season’s runways.
PRADA ‘Sexy Boy’ by Air
LOUIS VUITTON Badbadnotgood – played live
VETEMENTS
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Our biggest takeaway from the SS19 runways? Legs. Or thighs, more specifically. And lots of them. We saw more skin than we’d bargained for and while it may seem brash right now, we have a feeling short shorts will be a smash hit this summer.
Performance outerwear HERMÈS
Outerwear took a trip to the ’90s this season, with light, technical-driven jackets coming in shades of neon and clashing prints. With perforated trimmings and pockets galore, Ermenegildo Zegna’s sporty take on the anorak was particularly impressive.
Man sandles Resist as you wish, but mandles are this season’s shoe of choice. Go chunky and wear them with pants to ease the Jesus vibes. In our opinion, Hermès nailed the brief, showing sandals so chic you could wear them with a suit.
very long shorts On the flip side, if you’re opposed to flashing your upper thigh you can opt for the other extreme. Tailored Bermuda shorts skimmed kneecaps at Dior Men, Giorgio Armani and Jacquemus. Add some fashion-forward sneakers and a smidge of irony to avoid ending up in the Dad zone.
Technical specs
KENZO
Last season’s Matrix-style sunglasses have given way to wraparound shade you’d expect to find on someone with a bike-short tan. High-vis and polarised, they’re designed for those who live life in the fast lane.
RAF SIMONS ‘Bela Lugosi’s Dead’ by Bauhaus
STELLA McCARTNEY
PAUL SMITH
SSS WORLD CORP
double breasted
DIOR MEN ‘Born Slippy’ by Underworld
VERSACE ‘Amaqhawe’ by FAKA
SSS WORLD CORP ‘Walk’ by Pantera
Y/PROJECT
LOUIS VUITTON
VALENTINO
VALENTINO ‘Bonjour’ by Nas
Broad-shouldered and often worn undone, this season’s take on the double-breasted blazer was angular and sexy. At Justin O’Shea’s SSS World Corp, blazers were paired with skinny pants for a burly silhouette, while at Paul Smith and Stella McCartney they were languid and worn large. It’d be a bold move wearing one of these to the office.
bucket hats
Bread and butter
The mood this season was pro-SPF. Against all odds, the fedora made a return at Giorgio Armani and Saint Laurent, but the humble bucket hat reigned supreme, capping things off at AMI, Fendi and Versace.
EN T
CT
SAINT LAUR
JE
S
Y/PR O
RAF S
IM ON
Fashion might not encourage the consumption of carbs, but they do love a good bread and butter colour palette. Brunello Cucinelli gave us a sweatsuit in milky cashmere, while at Canali it was suiting in cream on cream on cream. Very tasty.
Fringe benefits Dusting the foreheads of models at Raf Simons, Dunhill and Prada among others, the fringe was SS19’s ’do of choice. Mostly, it was combed forward and secured in place – save for Saint Laurent, where fringes were left to flow.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
101
The most popular streetwear
MILAN
LONDON
NEW YORK
PARIS
Italy’s shirt game is always strong, but this season, the presence of graphic vacation shirts in bold colours was more palpable than the Milanese heat.
With England having their best World Cup result in 28 years, Londoners were feeling particularly patriotic, dressing in Christopher Bailey’s rehash of the iconic print.
Packaging a disdain for America’s current political climate into statement tees, New Yorkers let clothes do the talking.
The Parisian crowd was quick to interpret what was seen on the runway, with pocket-heavy utility vests and coats proving the street style item of choice.
ERM
ENEGILDO
ALEXANDER McQUEEN
Side bags, bold prints and accessories galore, men’s fashion week had more to offer than just the luxury labels.
vests are cool One thing we didn’t see coming was the return of the vest. Masquerading as tank tops and often worn with nothing beneath, at Acne they were boxy while at McQueen they cut a more tapered silhouette.
ZE GN
VALENT I NO
A
Fashion sneakers A
These sneakers took on a cartoonish persona this season. All colour-blocked and clunky, they were less streetwear and more fun. The kicks at Valentino had feathery plumes protruding from the heels, while Dolce & Gabbana cranked the chunk-factor up further than we thought it could go.
1 02
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
OFF-WHITE
PAUL SMITH
Another very prevalent silhouette was the tall and broad box-pleated pant. A variation of the wide-legged style skaters have been wearing for eons, this higher, tailored version falls with a little more drape and decorum.
KENZO
hiGH and wide
Aussies at Paris Fashion Week It might be a long-haul flight from home, but Paris’ geographical distance from Australia did nothing to deter these GQ faves from turning up, and playing a pivotal role in Paris Fashion Week.
neon is back
Bold, bombastic and a little bit bogan, Justin O’Shea’s SSS World Corp show was brilliant in its Aussie slang innuendos – such as a caricature of Roger the ‘Ripped’ Kangaroo. Some of O’Shea’s tongue-incheek humour left the Parisians scratching their heads, which was ripsnortingly funny to watch.
VERSACE
LOUIS VUITTON
ACNE STUDIOS
JUSTIN O’SHEA’S SSS WORLD CORP
LUKAS VINCENT’S EX INFINITAS
Highlighter tones were everywhere this season, whether splashed across sportswear or tailoring. Head-to-toe is the way to wear this trend, à la Louis Vuitton and Dior Men.
Lukas Vincent’s SS19 collection, titled NOWAVE, used the concept of surfing to thread stylistic elements of the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s together – be it surfing the early interweb or pulling an actual cowabunga. Staged in an abandoned appartement, Vincent’s beach dandies made for a jarring yet brilliant juxtaposition against the picturesque Rue SaintAntoine below.
VE T
E EM
NTS
COMMAS BRING THE BUDGIE SMUGGLER TO TRANOI
ERM
Music royalty Rihanna and Rocky at Virgil Ablboh’s first show for LV.
ENEGILD
OZ EG
NA
HITE F-W OF
104
Choose your chain Whether they’re hung around necks or hips, chains were the season’s ‘it’ accessory. The best bit about this trend is it’s DIY – look to Off-White for inspiration, or Comme des Garçons if you’re feeling extra brave.
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
The new front row
Hip-hop has long had an affinity with fashion, but today, rappers aren’t just spitting about Gucci and Dior Men – they’re either sitting front row or walking the runways. Virgil Abloh had Kid Cudi, Playboi Carti, A$AP Nast and musician Dev Hynes strut down his Louis Vuitton runway, while Kanye watched on from the f-row. Artists Nas, A$AP Ferg and Syd packed out the Valentino show, while Wizkid and Tinie Tempah walked for Dolce & Gabbana. Having given the industry free promo for decades in the way of catchy beats, the fashion world is finally giving rappers the kudos they deserve.
Young Aussie label COMMAS took its SS19 collection to Paris’ Tranoi trade show this year, impressing buyers and editors with its soft yet masculine range of boardies, button-up shirts and stylish budgie smugglers. Of course, the Europeans couldn’t get enough of the latter.
AUSSIE MODELS MAKING A MARK Byron-based model and musician Jai Piccone morphed from walking for edgy Sacai to tailored Dunhill with finesse. Meanwhile, GQ Style star Hugh Burry had us feeling like proud parents when he strode down the Louis Vuitton runway dressed in a Canadian tuxedo after opening the Versace show in a pair of epic Dad jeans. Bravo, boys.
THE ESSENTIAL GROOMING RANGE FOR THE MODERN MAN. WITH BOTANICAL INGREDIENTS TO BENEFIT THE HAIR & SKIN
|
|
W E CATC H U P W I T H AU S S I E AC TO R C H R I S PA N G AS H E P R E PA R E S TO H I T T H E B I G S C R E E N I N U P C O M I N G B LO C K B U S T E R C R A Z Y R I C H AS I A N S .
WO R DS AMY CAM PB E LL PH OTOG RAPHY TI M ASHTO N ST YLI N G JAM ES DYKES
OPPOSITE
Coat, $180, by Topman; and racersuit, $380, by G-Star. THIS PAGE
Jacket, $1200, by Diesel; knit, $329, by Calibre; pants, $179, by Van Heusen; and belt, $27.99, by H&M.
THIS PAGE
Sweater, $170, by Calvin Klein Jeans; pants, $95, by Topman; shoes, $200, by Adidas at Incu; and backpack, $280, by Diesel. OPPOSITE
Coat, $250, by Uniqlo; jacket (worn underneath), $699, and knit, $329, both by Calibre; pants, $399, by Lacoste; shoes, $130, by Superga.
OPPOSITE
Jacket, $1010, by Kenzo at Incu; racersuit, $380 by G-Star. THIS PAGE
Coat, $180, by Topman; jacket (worn underneath), $399, shirt, $99.95, and pants, $200, all by Ben Sherman; turtleneck, $49.90, by Uniqlo. Grooming Madison Voloshin at Vivien’s Creative using R+Co Hair and MAC
IT’S SPRING DA R K A N D B R O O DY I S G R E AT - FO R W I N T E R . R I G H T N O W, E M B R AC E B R I G H T A N D B O L D, S TA R T I N G W I T H T H E S E WA R D R O B E S TA P L E S .
1
3 2
4
5
6
7
8
9
11
12
15
13
17
20
18
14
19
1. Jacket, $350, by Diesel. 2. Shoes, $200, by Vans. 3. Shirt, $179, by MJ Bale. 4. Polo shirt, $110, by Tommy Hilfiger. 5. T-shirt, $79.95, by Lacoste. 6. Watch, $160, by Nixon. 7. Polo shirt, $295, by Paul Smith. 8. Belt, $475, by Tod’s. 9. Pants, $170, by Ben Sherman. 10. Shorts, $79.95, by Trenery. 11. Socks, $7, by Topman. 12. T-shirt, $99, by Client Liaison Deluxe Line. 13. Blazer, $349, by Jack London. 14. Shirt, $175, by Double Rainbouu. 15. Wallet, $565, by Tod’s. 16. Pocket square, $39.95, by MJ Bale. 17. Shirt, $110, by Nautica. 18. Knit, $65, by Topman. 19. Thongs, $90, by Paul Smith. 20. Hat, $80, by G-Star.
WEAR COLOUR PH OTOG RAPHY E DWAR D U R RUTIA
ST YLI N G K ATE SU LLIVAN
4
3 1
5 2
6
7
8
9
11
16
1. Hoodie, $350, by Diesel. 2. Jacket, $205, by Maison Kitsuné at INCU. 3. Pants, $240, Bassike. 4. Bag, $650, by Coach. 5. Sweater, $44.95, by Topman. 6. Jeans, $250, by Calvin Klein Jeans. 7. Hat, $34.95, by Nautica. 8. Knit, $180, by Diesel. 9. Shorts, $119, by Client Liaison Deluxe Line. 10. Shirt, $69, by Polo Ralph Lauren. 11. Shoes, $120, by Vans. 1 2. Suitcase, $239, by American Tourister. 13. Jacket, $279, by Aquila. 14. Sweater, $54.99, by H&M. 15. Bag, $150, by Diesel. 16. Hat, $50, by G-Star.
2
1
3
5
4 6
7
9
8
10
13 15
12
18
17
19
21
1. Shorts, $69.95, by Funky Trunks. 2. Phone case, $79.95, by The Daily Edited. 3. Pants, $130, by Topman. 4. Pin, $34, by Buckle 1922. 5. Blazer, $399, by Suit Supply. 6. Shirt, $220, by Jac + Jack. 7. Hat, $59.95, by Carhartt. 8. T-Shirt, $69.95, by Carhartt. 9. Shirt, $119, by Suit Supply. 10. Blazer, $220, by Topman. 11. T-shirt, $109, The Upside. 12. Pocket square, $39.95, by MJ Bale. 13. Shoes, $69.95, by Topman. 14. Shorts, $99, by Ralph Lauren. 15. Shorts, $99, by Ralph Lauren. 16. Pants, $130, by MJ Bale. 17. Tie, $160, by Paul Smith. 18. Shoes, $199, by Suit Supply. 19. Polo shirt, $100, by Venroy. 20. Shirt, $99.95, by Marcs. 21. Shirt, $49.95, by Topman.
4
5
3
2 1
7
4
6
8
9
10
12
13
14
15
17
16
1. Coat, $1230, by Ten Pieces. 2. Knit, $265, by Paul Smith. 3. Belt, $69, by Suit Supply. 4. Shirt, $220, by G-Star. 5. Hat, $29.95, by Topman. 6. Shoes, $139, by Polo Ralph Lauren. 7. Polo shirt, $120, by Paul Smith. 8. Jacket, $330, by G-Star. 9. Knit, $49.90, by Uniqlo. 10. Pocket square, $49.95, by MJ Bale. 11. Shorts, $155, by Paul Smith. 12. Knit, $275, by Paul Smith. 13. Bag, $39.99, by H&M. 14. Shoes, $625, by Tod’s. 15. Shorts, $590, by Ten Pieces. 16. Pants, $740, by Ten Pieces. 17. Shorts, $79.99, by Quiksilver.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
11 5
start your engines E L E M E N T S O F S T R E E T W E A R F U S E D W I T H T H I S I C O N I C A M E R I CA N B R A N D ’ S S I G N AT U R E S T Y L E . B R AC E YO U R S E L F FO R TO M MY H I L F I G E R ’ S N E W CA P S U L E C O L L E C T I O N W I T H FO R M U L A O N E S TA R L E W I S H A M I LTO N . PH OTOG RAPHY TI M ASHTO N
GQ SPOTLIGHT
FACTORY BOY
FOR MORE ON UNIQLO’S ‘SPRZ NY UT’ COLLECTION IN COLLABORATION WITH MOMA NY, VISIT UNIQLO.COM/AU
ABOVE AND LEFT
Jacket, $59.90, all T-shirts, $19.90, and all jeans, $59.90, all by Uniqlo. Grooming Joel Phillips at Vivien’s Creative using Dermalogica and Kevin Murphy Hair. Talent Fergus Bailey at Kult Models.
THE ICON POLO SHIRT
122
SEAN CONNERY
JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT
DAMON ALBARN
KANYE WEST
Here’s a man who could, if he chose, pop the collar. The former Bond has been polled ‘Greatest Living Scot’ and while we’re not exactly sure of the metric, he certainly knows how to pull off the polo.
The American artist may have died a member of the infamous ‘27 club’ but his impact on art, music and fashion (check out his Uniqlo collaboration) has remained pretty much a constant.
Blur helped spearhead the Brit-pop movement for which the polo formed the uniform of choice. Simple, no frills, and when worn in black helps hide a sweaty performance. Convenient.
Are we still allowed to like Kanye? Who knows, but we can agree his effect on fashion has been a sustained, and interesting one. Here, bringing polo preppiness to hip hop.
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
WORDS: CHRISTOPHER RILEY. PHOTOGRAPHY: EDWARD URRUTIA; GETTY IMAGES.
$109, by Brooks Brothers. $199, by Polo Ralph Lauren.
$79.95, by Superdry. $120, by Paul Smith.
$150, by Tommy Hilfiger.
$69.95, by Ben Sherman.
T H E D E F I N I T I O N O F S M A R T CAS UA L , A N Y WA R D R O B E N E E D S A S O L I D A R R AY O F P O LO S - R E S E R V I N G T H E P O P P E D C O L L A R FO R FA N CY D R E S S O N LY.
LIVE HEALTHY. STYLE DAILY. INSPIRE OFTEN. OPEN YOUR MIND. OPEN A JAR.
For local stockist enquiries / Australia 1300 764 437 / New Zealand 0800 456 426 / info@sabre-group.com
GOOD SPORTS SERVE UP STRAIGHT ACES ON AND OFF THE COURT WITH THE LATEST SPORTSWEAR FROM LACOSTE. GAME, SET, MATCH.
Left, from left: Lacoste retro track jacket, $199; Lacoste retro logo jacket, $249, and classic polo, $109; Lacoste logo sweat, $249. This page, clockwise from right: Lacoste classic polo, $109, and basic swim shorts, $119; Lacoste retro logo jacket, $249, classic polo, $109, and Bermuda shorts, $129; Lacoste Oxford shirt, $149.
Advantage, you: that’s how you’ll feel shopping the new collection celebrating the 85th anniversary of iconic French brand Lacoste. Available at David Jones, it features a modern edit of classic pieces from the brand founded by legendary tennis player René Lacoste in 1933. Style and comfort are given equal consideration, inspired by Lacoste’s guiding principle: “Without elegance, playing and winning are not enough”.
Shop the collection at davidjones.com
pick a new scent
GROOMING
E D I T E D BY
DAVI D SM I E DT
START YOUR SUMMER PREP GETTING YOUR GROOMING GAME IN SHAPE TO HIT THE BEACH REQUIRES A LITTLE FORWARD PLANNING. HERE’S WHERE TO BEGIN.
hair
SMOOTH SKIN, THE DEFINITION OF PERFECTY COIFFED HAIR PRESLEY PERSONIFIED MALE GROOMING DONE RIGHT. BEFORE ALL THE PEANUT BUTTER AND BACON SANDWICHES, THAT IS.
We asked Alexander Fuchs, of Sydney salon Fuchs Hair, how to pull off beach hair, even if the closest you’ve come to the sun and sand recently is your Insta feed. “Men will need to grow their hair three to four inches at least, which then requires a good cut to create the right shape,” says Fuchs. “The sides and back should be slightly shorter than the top. Very important is for your hairdresser to texturise the hair with scissors so the beach effect can be achieved through product. “Use a texturising sea-salt spray on damp hair and let it air dry,” he says. “Once dry, scrunch into shape with your hands. My go-to is La Biosthetique ‘Beach Effect Styling Spray’, $38 (150ml).” labiosthetique.com.au
tan
skin
Nothing will replace your gym time but there are some handy ways to help your skin’s metabolism kick things up a gear. Here, three formulas we like: Sisleÿa ‘Anti-Aging Concentrate Firming Body Care’, $490 (150ml); sisley-paris.com.au Clarins ‘Extra-Firming Body Lotion’, $77 (200ml); clarins.com.au DMK ‘Body Sculpting’, $69 (120ml); dannemking.com
teeth
All those coffees that got you through winter have left their mark on your teeth. Two options here. Your local dentist will probably offer a one-off treatment, such as Zoom Whitening, which will make you whiter than Donald Trump’s White House Cabinet. If you’d prefer the DIY approach, get your hands on the Pérla ‘Brilliant Smile Whitening Kit’, $99. perla.com.au
manscaping
Yup, smooth still reigns supreme. If you’re burdened by serious forestation from the neck down – and don’t want to try laser – there’s a solution. The new Remington ‘Quick Groom Body & Back Groomer’, $130, is a 100 per cent waterproof handheld shaver, so ideal for shower use. It also comes with an ingenious handle attachment so every inch of your hirsuteness is now within reach. shavershop.com.au
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY.
Allow us to introduce Ms Lova ‘Ben Tanning Mousse for Men – Dark No2,’ $34.90 (200ml) to your armoury in time for the hotter months. It’s organic, formulated to work with body and facial hair (rather than just on it) and it doesn’t smell like your gran’s dressing table. Better still, we asked its creator Natasha Mikhaylova for five tips on achieving a natural look. 1. Don’t shave just before tanning – it will make the skin feel more sensitive. 2. Exfoliate the face and body one day prior. 3. Moisturise hands, elbows and feet before tanning. 4. Don’t moisturise your face and make sure that your skin is completely dry. 6. Use a tanning mit – making it faster and easier, but it also producing a more even result. mslova.com
PanoMaticLunar
90 Pitt Street, Sydney · T: 02 9221 6288
WATCH P136
THE NEW ENTRY-LEVEL PIECES P148
P150
watches just got personal I T WAS O N LY A M AT T E R O F T I M E B E FO R E I N D I V I D UA L I SAT I O N B R O U G H T H O R O LO GY I N TO T H E 2 1 S T C E N T U RY. T H O U G H , FO R O N E M A N , I T’ S B E E N A N O N G O I N G C R U SA D E .
G
eorge Bamford is different to most CEOs in the watchmaking industry. For starters, he’s a “sneaker freak”, his uniform made up of white designer kicks, jeans, a blazer, shirt and tie. More signiicantly, until recently, he’d never made two of the same watch. In 2004, after he and a some friends found themselves at a dinner party sporting the same watch, he decided to launch Bamford Watch Department (BWD) – a company whose sole aim was to personalise quality watches into one-of-a-kind pieces. The impact of his inception had BWD immediately rufling luxury feathers and raising mechanical alarm bells within the horological world. His trademark treatment is to blacken cases and add a luminescent colour to the dials. Though many were enticed by this new way of seeing watches, watch purists loathed such ‘Frankenwatches’, calling them sacrilege, to the point where any Bamfordaffected piece violated the original warranty and lost the right to be serviced. Fourteen years on, Bamford hasn’t changed a bit – but the industry has. “I said, ‘God damn, this guy has something special,’” gushes TAG Heuer’s CEO Jean-Claude Biver to GQ. “I’ve always admired him. He can make a boring watch sexy without changing it too much. I said we should also do that. We also make boring watches so we should try to collaborate. I said, ‘Let’s call him’. So I called him and he was surprised.” Two days later, Biver and Bamford met in London. This resulted in an oficial partnership with LVMH in 2017, BWD as the approved personalisation partner for Bulgari, Zenith and TAG Heuer. Now it’s March 2018 and we are stood in the TAG Heuer Baselworld booth (more aptly, mansion) to witness history. Everyone who’s anyone in the watch media is here. The unlikely duo of Messieurs Biver and Bamford are up on stage seconds away from being live-streamed around the world to unveil the announcement of the TAG Heuer x Bamford ‘Monaco’. This collaboration and how it came to be would become the talk of Baselworld. “The irst watch you buy doesn’t need to be individualised. It’s already such an achievement to buy your irst Rolex or
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
George Bamford displaying his customised TAG Heuer x Bamford ‘Monaco’; elements of the timepiece feature Bamford’s signature aqua blue colour; the iconic square watch face; Steve McQueen wearing his ‘Monaco’ at Le Mans in 1971.
Hublot or Patek,” says Biver. “But it’s once you buy your second or third one you say, ‘Can I not have something special?’ We’d seen it in the luxury fashion industry and it’s happening in the watch world too. Consumers aged between 35 and 50 are ready to buy something special. “So despite the cost of producing 10 pieces or 50 pieces or 20 pieces we wanted to respond to this wish from the customers,” continues Biver. “We produce about 700,000 watches [a year], so we thought George can do it for us. He said he wanted to do a special
‘Monaco’. Because he loves the ‘Monaco’, Many people think it’s the face of the brand. And that was also his opinion.” It speaks volumes about Biver as well as the hierarchy within TAG Heuer, and exempliies why TAG is arguably the most innovative and popular watch player in the world right now. Within 15 minutes of the special announcement, we have the pleasure of sitting down with Bamford. Unsurprisingly the 37-year-old Brit is buzzing with excitement. And with good reason.
As we are introduced, the Lara Stoneesque gap in his teeth beams towards us, eyes smiling through his trademark thick black-rimmed spectacles. He is excitable in a way that’s refreshing, not puppy-dog-like, his voice similar to Prince William’s. And anyone whose experienced four days straight of Baselworld will appreciate quite how welcome ‘refreshing’ can be. Here’s what the man of the moment had to say about his shiny new TAG Heuer partnership among other things, including that one time he was in such a hurry to purchase a watch to personalise, that he fell down a light of stairs. GQ: Why the ‘Monaco’ to launch this special collaboration? George Bamford: I love the ‘Monaco’. As a child I used to sit with my father on the weekend and watch Formula 1 in the crux of his arm. Then when I was at school, the poster I had on my wall was Steve McQueen wearing a ‘Monaco’. I thought he was the King of Cool. GQ: Was it your choice or TAG Heuer’s? GB: They said beforehand, ‘What watch do you want to do?’ I had ‘Monaco’ in carbon ibre and aqua blue as option A with options down to Z. Literally we had documents and documents on how we’d want this. And they just went, ‘Yeah, let’s do a ‘Monaco’.’ GQ: Talk us through your design for this piece? GB: I love the colour black but I also love the colour blue and our signature colour is what we call a ‘Bamford aqua blue’. I always wanted to use it to create a blue-dial ‘Monaco’ and really play with different shades on the dial to represent my love of this colour. And I love how it all balances out on the iconic square dial. This little step here was the original steel and I said to myself I want the edging to be exactly the same. Even the nod back to ‘The Dark Lord’, with the steel and the black – these are the things that I loved. GQ: We’ve talked about the new collaboration, but what about personalising vintage pieces? GB: Look, I am a massive vintage watch collector. I’m a magpie when I collect things. I go in for very weird watches, be it TAG Heuer, Patek or Breitling from the ’60s, ’70s, early ’80s. It’s when they were kind of crazy with the war on quartz. I just bought a ‘Kentucky’ which is the weirdest, ugliestlooking Heuer. But it’s also beautiful, because of the quartz movement and how it’s shaped, how the case feels and even how the pin works on the brace. S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
133
George Bamford and Jean-Claude Biver on stage at this year’s Baselworld.
BAMFORD’S TWO (OTHER) FAVES And why.
CUSTOM ISE D TAG H EU E R ‘MONACO’
“It’s how brands excite you as a customer but it’s also how they keep you.” GQ: After the original backlash your technique endured, your embrace of personalisation has gone on to become a huge success. Where does the consumer’s thirst for this come from? GB: It happened in ’20s – everything was bespoke. You’d go to Louis Vuitton to get your trunk made for your travels. Suits, shirts, everything was bespoke. These days we all have our own individual style and we’ve all got our own thing that makes us ‘us’. Cars are becoming more personalised; companies like Bentley, Jaguar, Range Rover are doing individuality processes. So, my initial thought was why isn’t your watch a part of that? When you look at what magazines like GQ have done, they’ve given us our individual style. Why hasn’t the watch market done that? GQ: But thanks to a wake up call from you, the watch world has caught on. GB: Yes, now they’re doing it. Things like Hodinkee’s ‘Skipper’ collaborations and ‘Speedy Tuesday’ releases from Omega on Instagram have changed the whole demographic. I remember once I was so excited about buying a 1967 Heuer ‘Regatta Skipper’ model that I fell down the stairs in my boxer shorts. 134
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
GQ: Boxers then, not tighty-whities? GB: No, they were boxers! But I needed to buy that watch. You know, boom! That for me, is an instant thing. We’re direct to customer. We’re asking what colours customers like? The new green? Or more loral? Every luxury brand now offers personalisation. But 14 years ago they didn’t. GQ: Does there come a time where it’s too much? GB: No, now it’s would you like your initials? Do you want this? Do you want that? It’s how brands excite you as a customer but it’s also how they keep you. You won’t sell it on, because it’s yours. GQ: And why has this trend grown so exponentially? GB: We live in an Instagram generation so it’s something a lot of businesses are trying to igure out. How do you get customers back into understanding what they love? What we do know about that generation is their spend will come up. But for me and Jean-Claude [Biver], it was more about knowing that they make an informed decision of what they want so we’ve got to interact in a better way. tagheuer.com; bamfordwatchdepartment.com
“This is my wife’s version to the one we launched at Basel. It’s similar but not too closely and for me that is what a relationship is about. We have personalised it for her by our three children being symbolised in the colour ways in the sub dial and I love how it works alongside mine.”
CUSTOM ISE D Z E N ITH ‘E L PR IM E RO’
“It has this amazing radar dial ring on the signature Bamford aqua blue dial and I think the colour combination really stands out on the watch. The blue contrasts well with the black and creates a stunning piece.”
ALL NEW
Black and gold
the Watch trends F R O M T H E C O O L TO T H E C O LO U R F U L A N D T H E D O W N R I G H T Q U I R K Y.
2018 is a vintage crop, with Patek Philippe, Chanel and Chaumet the pick of the black and gold bunch. Impartiality is impossible when discussing Patek’s ‘Golden Ellipse 5738R’, brought out to celebrate the Golden Ellipse’s 50th birthday in style. As square as it is round, it’s as slender as it is masculine and we’re huge fans. When you consider Coco Chanel’s love of fusing masculine elements into her women’s designs, you realise how ahead of her time she was. Now, the maison she founded has brought out a piece that masters ‘gender fluidity’, or so says Nicolas Beau, Chanel’s global head of watch and fine jewellery business development. Similar to 2015’s ‘Boy. Friend’, this latest iteration – in ‘beige gold’ – has a skeletonised movement as a nod to modern times. Lastly, Chaumet. More known for tiaras than watches, Chaumet have combined charm with technical wizardry to create the ‘Dandy Gold’, a piece housing a complex mechanism developed by Chaumet and the best Swiss engineers. ‘GOLDEN ELLIPSE 5738R’, APPROX. $36,800; ‘BOY. FRIEND SKELETON CALIBRE 3’, POA; ‘DANDY GOLD’, $24,560; PATEK.COM CHANEL.COM CHAUMET.COM
HOW TO
create a signature piece
BEL
A sketch of the Bulg ‘Octo’ highlights t simplicty of its desig
Launched in 2012, Bulgari’s ‘Octo’ has become one of the best-selling collections in the industry. With its distinctive eight-sided shape, it’s no wonder the world noticed the latest edition on Zayn Malik’s wrist in his video for ‘Let Me’. Given its success, we asked Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari’s enigmatic CEO, the secret to creating a signature piece. “We’ve maintained the integrity of having the symmetry of the dial and the bracelet on the case, which has reinforced the ‘Octo’ identity beyond the octagonal shape and also beyond the fact that it's a thin watch,” he said. “Rather than creating diversity by dyeing [it] different colours, which is often what you do in watches, we’re creating diversity out of the material itself. The signature is more and more characterised by the thinness. The fact that we got many awards helped people realise there was something a bit new, a bit unexpected about the ‘Octo’.” Indeed. He continued: “The objective is to create a new standout in masculine timepieces. It’s also important to maintain the technicalities of the watches because, despite the thinness, it remains the most geometrical in the market.”
1 8 K T GOLD BVLGAR I ‘OCTO ROMA’, $1 9,250
Where else to wear yours Stating the bleeding obvious here, but left wrists have been the go-to location for your timepiece, at least since 1812 when Queen Caroline of Naples had a lovely Breguet number fitted to hers. We’ve also had – and thanks to Peaky Blinders, still do – pocket watches. Now, with more men embracing jewellery, notably necklaces, watches are starting to hang around our necks too, like this Swiss-made piece by Gucci. Pictured as part of the brand’s #TimeToParr Instagram series by British photographer Martin Parr, we suggest wearing it one of two ways: with a singlet and numerous other chains à la Mr T, or over a Hawaiian shirt and denim jacket so it’s the main event. (NB: Storing it in the cutlery drawer is optional.) $1910; GUCCI.COM
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
137
EXCLUSIVE
Novelties that won’t wear off There was a time when novelties felt, well, new. But now every brand is devising (and cashing in on) pieces that push the design envolope. That said, at this year’s Baselworld, Bell & Ross had the last laugh (sorry) with its ‘BR 01 Laughing Skull’, the brand’s first foray into marrying an inhouse movement with an automaton dial. When you wind the movement, the skull’s mandible moves up and down, making it look like it’s laughing, yet this timepiece holds its own among the horological heights – no mean feat in a world steeped in tradition. Says Bell & Ross co-founder and creative director Bruno Belamich: “There's many buyers of this watch because of the unique style design. There are also some collectors who [will] buy this watch but not to wear, only to show and to keep at home as an original and unique piece.” If ever proof was needed that Swiss watchmaking can be as experimental as its fashion contemporaries, the ‘Laughing Skull’ is testament to that – Bell & Ross the Off-White of the watch world – in all its streetwear glory. ‘BR 01 LAUGHING SKULL’, POA; LIONBRANDSAUSTRALIA.COM.AU
contemporary artist, amid the Baselworld buzz. “I think this watch can be not an art installation, but just a nice watch. It’s a good matching because the brand needs artists and for me, art is everything.” Known for his pop art style, Orlinski is discussing his irst collaboration with Hublot, the ‘Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium’. Many watch aicionados thought it impossible to create a bolder, more masculine Hublot piece. But they clearly didn’t know of Orlinski’s credentials and penchant for geometric wonders. (That said, he’s penned a book called Why I Broke the Codes, so the clues were there.) The mirror polishing on the case is another signature of the artist. Mechanical objects of art such as this are another way brands are showcasing their creativity, with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe the instigator here, uniting a self-winding skeleton chronograph movement with pop culture. Bravo. The only downside is that it’s limited to 200 pieces. However, Orlinski hinted of more to come: “Now we are working on the same design with different materials like gold or carbon, with diamonds.” We don’t know whether he was supposed to make us privy to such information, but can’t wait to ind out. hublot.com
lo
Fol
w
th
R e
w o b ain CALVI N KLE I N ‘EVI DE NCE’, $3 69
Everything Raf Simons touches generally turns to magic. Touches of colour like this help him bring CK watches up to date.
G RAHAM ‘CH RONOFIG HTE R SU PE R LIG HT’, APPROX. $13,4 00
A watchmaker dating back to 1695 is experimenting with the colour purple. Not quite what Alice Walker had in mind, but we’ll take it.
G R AN D SE IKO ‘B LU E CE RAM IC H I - B EAT GMT “SPECIAL” LIM ITE D E DITION’, $21,400
Twenty years on and the Caliber 9S movement still breathes strong. Limited to 350 pieces, they’ll be hard to come by.
CA
Mido h certifie almost every and this 42. water resistant, model is one CHOPAR RACING COL
To celebrate Chopard’s partnership with the Italia Miglia race, five new model bold colours have been launched, each symbolising one of the national teams (this is Belgium’s ‘Speed Yellow’).
NE 2750
s more r-of-pearl ece knows it. e the creative nership with Grandi iardini Italiani to thank.
Your new one-stop watch shop
In June, Mr Porter introduced The Luxury Watch Guide. Its recent take-over by luxury goods company Richemont means most of its watchmaking fraternity (think Montblanc, Piaget, IWC) are now on sale on the site. We’re especially thankful, though, for the harderto-get brands being brought to Australian shores, namely Ressence, Bremont, Nomos Glashütte, Oris and Zenith (pictured). “We now have 17 luxury watch brands available on the site with four coming this year and more lined up next year,” says Mr Porter’s MD, Toby Bateman. “And with men spending 65 per cent of their disposable income on luxury online, the benefit of digital is we’re able to deliver customers a consistent product information communication. We are also a trustworthy online source and an authorised dealer for all the brands too.” Zenith Titanium ‘Defy El Primero 21 Chronograph’, approx. $17,700; mrporter.com
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
139
S U STA I N A B I LIT Y
For the Greater Good ‘Transparent purpose’ is a phrase the luxury fashion world is hearing a fair bit about, with consumers rightly demanding more from labels than beautifully made goods. For the most part, the industry has reacted with aplomb, with two giants of the sector, Breitling and Blancpain, channelling their energies towards healthy oceans and clean beaches – no small consideration for an island nation like ours. Here’s what you need to know about their initiatives, as well as the pieces to invest in.
B R E ITLI NG ‘SU PE ROCEAN H É R ITAG E I I’, $7930
join the squad After announcing a partnership with Ocean Conservancy in March, Breitling launched a ‘Squad’ initiative, creating teams of ambassadors who excel in specific fields to club together for a common goal. The Surfers Squad includes Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons – their goal, to raise awareness of the fight to keep our oceans and beaches clean. Slater told GQ, “We only have this one planet and we're doing our best to screw it up really badly. So we need to align business and corporations with messaging around cleaning up things from the outset.” The relationship also involves his sustainable clothing brand, Outerknown, which will be designing the band for one of Breitling’s watches. “Our tagline is, ‘For people and planet’,” continues Slater, “so it's social compliance. When we brought up the Ocean Conservancy and also doing co-branding with Outerknown, Breitling was totally on board. They were super generous with the things they want to do.” Meanwhile, members of the Cinema Squad include Adam Driver, Charlize Theron and Brad Pitt. We look forward to hearing more. breitling.com
the legacy continues Blancpain’s ‘Fifty Fathoms’ diving watch has a 65-year legacy, so it’s no surprise that Blancpain treasures its relationship with the sea. That affinity has manifested itself in a determination to protect our oceans. Since 2014, the Blancpain Ocean Commitment (BOC) has co-financed 10 major scientific expeditions, one of which convinced the Mexican government to create the largest marine-protected area in North America, the Revillagigedo Archipelago. To date, Blancpain’s support is thought to have contributed to doubling the surface of marine protected areas worldwide. What’s more, the BOC supports the Hans Hass Fifty Fathoms Award, which acknowledges excellence in marine sciences and underwater technical innovation. This year, the BOC upped the stakes again, co-launching the World Ocean Initiative and The Protectors program, with the goal of classifying 30 per cent of the planet’s oceans as marine protected areas by 2030. blancpain.com
B L ANCPAI N ‘FI FT Y FATHOMS BATHYSCAPH E AN N UAL CALE N DAR’, $32,750
FROM TOP RIGHT
Images from Blancpain’s Gombessa III expedition to Antarctica that aimed to measure the impact of global warming; on the trip was photographer, Laurent Ballesta, whose shot that captured, for the first time, an entire submerged iceberg, winning the 2017 Wildlife Photography of the Year award.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 41
WATCH MOMENTS OF 2018 FROM GRABBING THE LIMELIGHT AT THE WORLD CUP FINAL, TO CELEBRITIES ANNOUNCING THEIR ENGAGEMENT, THESE ARE THE BEST HOROLOGICAL MOMENTS OF THE YEAR – INTENTIONAL OR NOT.
FIVE WAYS TO HOLD A WATCH POSE (AS DEMONSTRATED BY CONOR MCGREGOR).
When you boast a watch collection worth an alleged seven-digits (including more Rolexes than we care to imagine), there’s really no excuse to not know how to strike a million-dollar watch stance.
MOVE OVER HARRY AND MEGHAN
Understated.
The world lost its collective mind when Justin Bieber announced his engagement. Then the Canadian lost his own mind with a post showing his-and-hers diamondencrusted Audemar Piguets. Hailey Baldwin
Daddy duty.
Red carpet ready.
Fashionably late As if there weren’t enough new releases in Basel, some houses held a few pieces back. (Such teases.) Case in point: these new additions by Raymond Weil and Frederique Constant. Coming off the back of a pretty rock ’n’ roll Baselworld for Raymond Weil, the ‘Maestro Moon Phase’ is a welcome example of how classic and elegant the brand can be. Available on a leather or steel strap, the 40mm dial comes in deep blue, silver or grey. With the dizzying effect of the wave-like motif, it’s no wonder this model arrived late. With Frederique Constant’s ‘Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph’, it’s become a tradition to unveil a new model each year at the European Healey Club classic car extravaganza. Both mechanical, both outdated and both charming, no one could ever say watches and vintage cars don’t have plenty in common. raymond-weil.com, lionbrandsaustralia.com.au 142
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
RAYMOND WE I L ‘MAESTRO MOON PHASE’, $23 50; RAYMON D -WE I L .COM
Watch yourself!
FR E DE R IQU E CON STANT ‘VI NTAG E RALLY H EALEY CH RONOG RAPH’, $4250; LION B RAN DSAUSTRALIA .COM . AU
Wait, does Floyd hold a better pose?
“If we support each other equally, with confidence and passion, progression is our only option.�
Audi Vorsprung durch Technik
Indies rock A S I G N O F G O O D T I M E S I N T H E I N D U S T RY – YO U N G I N D E P E N D E N T B R A N D S A R E P R O S P E R I N G . R E M E M B E R , YO U H E A R D I T H E R E F I R S T.
M
odern horology’s most unconventional and innovative developments have largely been down to the work of independent watchmakers. Often lacking the pressures of their group-owned contemporaries to boost sales of commercially ‘safe’ pieces for shareholder beneit, these low-volume artisan creators are well versed in pushing the boundaries of mechanical creativity. We scoured the new Les Ateliers pavilion to round up the best independent launches from Baselworld 2018.
Ressence This could well be the future of ‘intelligent’ mechanical watches. With the Belgian brand’s characteristic revolving dial, their fully mechanical ‘Type 2’ piece has been fitted with new e-Crown technology; an autonomous electronic system that with a tap of the finger, automatically sets the watch to the correct time and location. Collaborating with iPod inventor Tony Fadell, Ressence’s concept watch bridges the gap between traditional watchmaking and today’s tech-oriented demands – and does so in a holistic and thoroughly non-gimmicky way. ‘TYPE 2 E-CROWN CONCEPT’, POA; RESSENCEWATCHES.COM
Rexhep Rexhepi Showcasing a degree of technical and artisanal skill usually only seen in master watchmakers twice his age, Rexhep Rexhepi and his brand AkriviA (meaning precision in Ancient Greek), have regularly been touted as the next big thing in indie watchmaking. As a departure from his thoroughly modern main collection, the 30-year-old’s latest piece – and the first under his name – channels 20th-century chronometer wristwatches, and is inspired by ’40s officers’ watches. A Grand Feu enamel dial, elegant downturned lugs and a 38mm case champion a restrained aesthetic flair. Inside, the movement has been fully designed and constructed in-house, with a focus on symmetry and hand-finishing. Time will tell if the ‘Chronomètre Contemporain’ will join the likes of the hallowed Philippe Dufour ‘Simplicity’ or Roger Smith ‘Series 1’, but Rexhep is certainly on the verge of big things. ‘CHRONOMÈTRE CONTEMPORAIN’, APPROX. $75,500; AKRIVIA.COM
When two of the most creative forces in contemporary horology throw in together, you know there’s going to be fireworks. Maximilian Büsser and Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva have collaborated on a new piece that is equal parts playful and unique, introducing the world’s first projected moonphase display. The ‘MoonMachine 2’ is part of Max’s ‘Performance Art’ series, and offers an amalgamation of some of the best-loved characteristics from the two brands. Striking a distinctive angular form with its Can-Am race car-inspired design and battle-axe winding rotor, the watch is punctuated with Sarpaneva’s signature gold moons. A non-magnifying optical prism display projects the jumping hours, wandering minutes and the centrally located moonphase. The ‘MoonMachine 2’ is available in three metal and colour combinations, and 12 pieces of each will be made. ‘MOONMACHINE 2’, $130,700; MBANDF.COM
WORDS: TIMOTHY ANSCOMBE-BELL.
MB&F & Sarpaneva
Laurent Ferrier We’re huge fans of Laurent Ferrier, and his latest piece – an annual calendar with new manually wound calibre – certainly doesn’t disappoint. The watchmaker and former creative director of Patek Philippe has a reputation for classically styled watches with mechanically complex movements. By annual calendar standards, the dial here is clean and legible with a crosshair design, beveled day and month apertures, chapter ring and an outer date ring. The rounded ‘Montre École’ case is a throwback to the pocket-watch that every student must assemble prior to graduating from watchmaking school, and the LF126.01 calibre features a ‘blade-type’ click ratchet, as seen on earlier pieces like the celebrated ‘Tourbillon Double Hairspring’. There’s an 80-hour power reserve with an indicator movement inside, and the degree of hand-finishing applied to every visible component is remarkable. ‘GALET ANNUAL CALENDAR MONTRE ÉCOLE’, APPROX. $68,000; LAURENTFERRIER.CH
Urwerk With a history of experimenting with timepieces that can measure their own performance, Urwerk brought the heat this year with a contemporary take on the historic Breguet ‘Sympathique’, unveiling its ‘AMC’, or ‘Atomic Master Clock’. The idea is as follows. While your mechanical watch may keep time accurately, it will need correcting from time-to-time. Dock it in to one of the most advanced and accurate electronic timekeeping devices – an atomic clock – then get the device to adjust the watch accordingly. The ‘AMC’ marries cutting-edge technology with traditional timekeeping, and brings a 225-year-old concept screaming into the 21st century. ‘AMC’, APPROX. $4,000,000; URWERK.COM
Vault Launching his brand at Baselworld 2018, Vault’s founder Mark Schwarz came to watchmaking via an unusual path. The former policeman’s first piece, the ‘V1’ is an homage to a bank vault’s time lock mechanism. Using a unique planetary gear system to both set and tell the time, minutes are read traditionally, whilst hour numerals are displayed on gears and indicated by a line in a revolving sapphire disk that fades from transparent to opaque. When you set the minutes via the crown, the entire movement and the disk rotates with the minute hand inside the rectangular case. Another pull of the crown to set the hours sees the numerals, along with the dial, rotate as one. The result is a watch face that changes each time it is set for a unique look. Complex, bold and more than a little confusing – we can’t wait to see what Schwarz comes up with next. ‘V1+ GOLD’, APPROX. $81,600; VAULT.SWISS
H Moser & Cie Joining forces with sister company Hautlence on movement development, the Swiss provocateurs have introduced an orbital time display for the first time. It’s an interesting spin on the historic ‘wandering hours’ complication, famously employed (in quite different ways) by both Audemars Piguet and the revered Swiss independent, Urwerk. The ‘Endeavour Flying Hours’ uses a series of three revolving hour disks integrated into the dial, with a central minutes disk rotating over the top to display the time. The overall look of this watch is unmistakably Moser, with the ‘Funky Blue’ fumé and use of negative space on the dial, alongside a clean 42mm white gold case. Its complication is powered by a freesprung movement with a balance bridge for added stability. Just 60 pieces will be made. ‘ENDEAVOUR FLYING HOURS’, $50,650, AT HARDY BROTHERS; H-MOSER.COM
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
145
Younger sibling syndrome N O LO N G E R I N R O L E X’ S S H A D O W, T H I S LU X U RY B R A N D H AS H A D AU S T R A L I A P L AY I T S PA R T, TO O.
TU DOR ‘B L ACK BAY F I F T Y-E IG HT’ W ITH FAB R IC STRAP, $3 910
The ‘Heritage Chrono’ electrified the world’s watch forums.
WORDS: TIMOTHY ANSCOMBE-BELL.
T
udor’s ties Down Under goes much deeper than its recent spike in popularity might suggest. While the Swiss brand’s sporty and robust good looks seem a perfect companion to the Aussie way of life today, it’s a little-known fact that we were the earliest adopters of Rolex’s smaller sibling, and one of the few markets it never left. 1930s Australia was hardly the centre of the watchmaking universe, but thanks to the gold rush we did have some expertise in watches and jewellery, and that, coupled with the quality and value offered by Tudor, helped to inspire a loyal following. Founded by Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor aimed to offer a more affordable watch that would preserve the Rolex standards of reliability and craftsmanship. This was initially achieved by itting off-the-shelf movements into Rolex’s shock-and waterproof Oyster case; eventually integrating its self-winding rotor to a piece dubbed the ‘Oyster Prince’, in 1952. This invited a move into the production of tool watches, for which the company is still renowned. After being selected for the British North Greenland Expedition of 1952-54 (and courtesy of a dedicated marketing push by Wilsdorf), the Tudor ‘Oyster Prince’ became the watch of choice for those wanting tough and functional timepieces. In 1954, Tudor’s irst diving watch, the ‘Oyster Prince Submariner’, was launched after ‘in-the-ield’ development with the French Navy who played a key role in shaping its design. Now-iconic features such as the ‘Big Crown’ and ‘Snowlake’ hands were introduced over the next decade and by the mid-’60s the ‘Submariner’ was being bought in bulk by both the French and Canadian navies, and itted with military-issue fabric straps.
Skip forward to the mid-’90s and early ’00s however, and the brand was loundering. Positioned too close to its dominant big brother, it began to lose its identity, with price the only thing differentiating it from Rolex. Top management decided to pull the company out of several key markets, including the US and UK, buying unsold inventory from their retail network. While the Tudor name remained in Australia, the company went almost completely silent. Come 2007 however, plans were underway to relaunch its ‘Shield’ watch. Bringing in a dedicated team who would operate separately to Rolex for the irst time, the aim was to put product front and centre. Davide Cerrato was hired from Panerai as creative director, and set about diving into the Tudor archives. Driven initially by an interest in ’70s chronograph throwbacks, Cerrato’s release of the Tudor ‘Heritage Chrono’ in 2010 electriied the world’s watch forums, setting the scene for one of the most unexpected comeback stories in recent years. While it offered nothing exceptional from a technical standpoint, with an ETA movement and standard chronograph module on top, the ‘Heritage Chrono’ encapsulated what Tudor does best – forwardthinking design, robust and solid quality, and competitive pricing. Critics loved it, and it was followed by the irst in the now famous ‘Heritage Black Bay’ collection, which referenced a diving watch made by the brand in the ’50s. Conident once again in its product, Tudor re-entered the markets it had left, and at Baselworld 2015, took a further step towards asserting independence with the release of its irst proprietary calibre, MT5621.
TUDOR’S KEY DATES
1926
Birth of ‘The Tudor’; a sub-brand of Rolex
1932
First Tudor watches launch in Australia
1946
Montres Tudor SA registered as a standalone company
1952
Tudor ‘Oyster Prince’ selected for British North Greenland Expedition
1960-1980
Tudor ‘Submariners’ widely issued to the French, Canadian and US navies
2010
International re-launch of the brand, and introduction of the ‘Heritage Chrono’
2017
‘Manufacture’ movements introduced across Tudor’s full range
Beckham has been a Tudor ambassador since May last year.
Accurate, economical to make and tough as nails, this isn’t a calibre with pretensions to Haute Horlogerie status. Instead, the movement is utilitarian; COSC certiied, with pared-down inishing. Fitted inside a new ’70s-inspired piece with modern detailing dubbed the North Flag, the launch demonstrated Tudor’s skill at breathing new life into its icons from the past by wrapping them up in a contemporary technical package. Today, a cooperative agreement with Breitling means it uses an adapted version of the aviation watch company’s chronograph B01 movement for its ‘Black Bay Chronograph’; in exchange for a Tudor movement to be adapted for use in Breitling’s ‘Heritage Superocean’. Otherwise, Tudor builds its movements for new releases in-house across its product range. Staking a claim on the youthful sports-watch category, new pieces typically hover around the $4200-$5000 price point, which is where the brand feels most at home. Partnerships with select ambassadors such as the All Blacks and David Beckham represent tenets of the Tudor philosophy, but celebrity aside, it’s the historic legitimacy and unadorned functionality that has elevated these pieces to the ranks of highly prized collectibles. For lovers of vintage watch design, the ‘Black Bay FiftyEight’ may well be the standout piece of 2018. This year, Tudor has taken the original ‘Black Bay’, made it smaller, thinner, and added plenty of well-considered dive-watch lair. It’s a winning combo, and the buzz in Australia around its launch shows that when it comes to securing the perfect tool watch, an 86-year-old loyalty is alive and well. tudorwatches.com
TU DOR ‘B L ACK BAY FI F T Y-E IG HT’ W ITH STE E L B R ACE LET, $4290
next level entry level
Whirlwind romance
F
or some, the tourbillon occupies a place alongside timekeeping’s other great complications – see the moon phase, minute repeater, chronograph, alarm watch and all manner of calendars. To others, the tourbillon is an antediluvian, overpriced, pointless piece of tech that’s been surplus to requirements ever since the watch moved from the pocket of our waistcoat to the end of our arm. It may not even work. So what the HolyAbraham-Louis-Breguet-Batman is a tourbillon anyway? Put simply, it is a natty little gadget that places a watch’s three regulating elements – it’s balance wheel, hairspring and escapement – in a tiny rotating cage. It was patented by the aforementioned French-Swiss watchmaker Breguet, horology’s answer to Albert Einstein, in 1801 as a way of improving the timekeeping capability of a watch. As a watch shifts position, gravity pulls its myriad components in different directions, destabilising the rate at which it ticks. Placing the regulating organs in
BREGUET ‘CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5367’, $189,400
WORDS: RICHARD BROWN.
Tourbillons – acme of mechanical watchmaking or horologic snake oil? What are they? Why are they? And how come they’re so astronomically expensive?
BVLGARI ‘OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC’, $170,000
ABOVE
French watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet is known as the inventor of the tourbillon, after creating his eponymous brand Breguet in 1775.
a rotating cage ensured that components bore the force of gravity at a near constant rate, mitigating the force’s disruptive effects. For years, it took a great deal of skill to assemble a working tourbillon. So much so, that in the two centuries since Breguet irst iled his patent, fewer than 1000 tourbillons are thought to have been made. Fast forward to the irst decade of the 21st century, the mechanical timepiece having morphed into a status symbol, and the collective desire of watchmakers to cash in on a new type of conspicuous consumption inds its natural expression in the tourbillon. What better way to display your watchmaking nous than by partskeletonising your dial to reveal the most visually arresting movement of them all? What better way to make bank than by positioning that rotating piece of micro magic at the top of your price pyramid and inviting oil magnates and newly made BRIC-nation millionaires to come a-knockin’? The tourbillon became the bazooka, and cash cow, in every watchmaker’s arsenal. Yet here’s the thing: the tourbillon was invented for large travel clocks and pocket watches – devices that remained in ixed positions for long periods of time. Having migrated to the end of our arms in the 20th century – Cartier designed the irst wristwatch for men, the ‘Santos’, in 1911 – modern watches change position as often as we do, our own movements serving to fulil a tourbillon’s whole raison d’être. What’s more, because wristwatch components, especially balances, are a great deal lighter than those in pocket watches, the effect of gravity is insigniicant enough to be almost inadmissible. In terms of improving accurate timekeeping, the tourbillon wristwatch was functionally pointless – or so the thinking went. That particular myth was debunked by Greubel Forsey in 2011. Seven years after English ex-watchrestorer Stephen Forsey and French calibre-creator Robert Greubel had founded their eponymous business, the duo submitted their Double Tourbillon 30° Technique to the International Chronometry Competition, the most rigorous independent testing panel on the planet. After 45 days of subjecting the timepiece to shocks, extreme temperatures and shifting magnetic ields, some men in white lab coats deemed the watch to be the most precise mechanical timetelling device ever created. It remains so to this day. “Most wristwatch tourbillons were still traditional, miniaturised versions of pocket-watch tourbillons,” says Forsey. “From a performance point of view, the movement wasn’t really adding much from what it did 200 years ago. We wanted to see if there was a way of bringing the tourbillon back to the summit of watchmaking.” Greubel Forsey did so by inclining one tourbillon at a 30° angle inside another, a watchmaking irst that further averaged out the disruptive forces of gravity. Since then, a melange of maisons have provided their own take on the traditional tourbillon. This year, the horological dick-swinging has reached epic proportions. At Baselworld watch fair in March, both Breguet and Bulgari concentrated their efforts on shrinking the tourbillon to wafer-thin proportions. Just three S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 51
months after losing its ultra-thin crown to Piaget, which had unveiled the 4.3mm-deep ‘Altiplano Ultimate Automatic’ at the end of last year, Bulgari reinstated itself as king of the super-slims with the ‘Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic’. Not only did the timepiece become the world’s slimmest self-winding wristwatch – a full 0.35mm slighter than the Piaget – but, as its name suggests, houses a paper-thin tourbillon within its sandblasted, multifaceted titanium case. More incredibly still, the tourbillon measures just 1.95mm in depth. A full 1.05mm fatter, the movement inside Breguet’s ‘Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique’ may not have broken any records. It does, however, comprise a patented, high-energy silicon balance spring that’s good for 80 hours of power – a notable feat given that the hairspring in a tourbillon has to power not just the usual components – escape wheel, lever and balance – but the rotating tourbillon cage as well. The watch industry may not be famed for its transparency, but Hublot’s ‘Big Bang Sapphire Tourbillon’ is certainly that. The brand has managed to machine not just a case, but a bezel, bridges and case-back out of ultra-resistant sapphire crystal, one of the hardest materials after diamond. Committed to making the timepiece as pellucid as possible, even the watch’s in-house skeletonised tourbillon is held in place by a strip of the synthetic gemstone. Only 99 of the 45mm models are being produced. From the classic to the contemporary, Corum utilised Baselworld to showboat its hands-free ‘Bubble 47 Swoosh’. One of the most attention-grabbing watches of the year, the weighty, whimsical cuff-shredder pushes the tourbillon in a more playful direction. “The tourbillon was designed for pocket watches,” says Corum CEO Jérôme Biard. “On wristwatches, its function is purely aesthetic. With the magnifying effect provided by the Bubble’s domed crystal, a tourbillon has never been as present or as powerful on a wristwatch.” The Bubble’s 47mm thickset case might border on the comic, but there’s nothing cartoonish about complex inline movement that centralises the tourbillon at the middle of the dial. Nor about the way hours and minutes are displayed not by conventional hands, but by two triangular markers that appear to loat at the edge of the dial. H Moser & Cie has come up with something rather special, too. If there’s one complication more prestigious than the tourbillon, it’s the minute repeater – a watch that chimes the time of the day at the push of a button. It was Abraham-Louis Breguet, coincidentally, who created the irst striking repeater to be operated by a gong-spring rather than a bell in 1783. Launching as the new magnum opus in H Moser & Cie’s already accomplished portfolio, the ‘Swiss Alp Watch Minute Repeater Tourbillon’ places both complications in the same Apple ‘Watch’-inspired square case. Two worlds collide in one very rare timepiece. Employing high-grade materials and decorated with haute de gamme levels of hand-inishing, most tourbillon wristwatches position the complication
HUBLOT ‘SAPPHIRE BIG BANG TOURBILLON POWER RESERVE 5 DAYS’, $190,000
outside the reach of everyday consumers. Perhaps the most interesting development in the tale of the tourbillon more recently has played out at the opposite end of the price spectrum. In 2015, to the concern of the industry’s inancial controllers, presumably, TAG Heuer announced that it was planning on manufacturing a tourbillon for less than $20,000. A year later, the ‘Carrera Heuer-02T’ launched for just $15 cheaper. Up until then, ‘affordable’ Swiss tourbillons had included a $45,000 JaegerleCoultre – which, following industry outcry, was promptly repriced closer to $90,000 – and Montblanc’s ‘4810 ExoTourbillon Slim’, arriving in 2016 for around $55,360. Speaking to Bloomberg Pursuits, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern described TAG Heuer’s game-changing gateway tourbillon as: “nearly a joke to me... If they’re willing to try to kill the quality of the Swiss product, I think they’re on a very good track.” How had TAG done it? In the preceding years, the company’s maverick CEO Jean-Claude Biver had embarked on a cost-cutting mission, streamlining production processes in the company’s Chevenez-based workshops and removing an entire layer of middle management. Given suficient economies of scale, previous investment in an in-house movement that could now be modiied with the inclusion of a tourbillon,
“on wristwatches, its function is purely aesthetic.”
CORUM ‘BUBBLE 47 SWOOSH’, POA
and the decision to forego artistic inishing and precious metals in favour of titanium, TAG Heuer could deliver a sub $20,000 tourbillon while still, according to Biver, turning a proit. “I’m ready to show numbers, prices, but then it will hurt the whole industry when you start to show prices!” the ever-rumbustious watch boss told TAG Heuer collectors’ website Cailbre 11. “The movement is 100 per cent made in our own company. It’s just that we have an organisation, people and an internal productivity that enables us with a normal margin.” Biver continued: “I know a few brands take additional margins because it’s a tourbillon and they might take some provisions for after-sales service, etc. But we have taken the same margins, not the special margin. We have taken the same margin as a normal ‘Carrera’ and have applied this margin to the tourbillon cost. It ends up at $19,985 – what can I tell you?” This year, TAG Heuer releases the updated, blueceramic ‘Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer’. The watch is precision-certiied by independent, Besançonbased observatory Tête de Vipère, a testing facility that has afixed its Viper Head logo to just 500 watches since it was reformed in 2006. The price for this super-accurate Swiss chronograph tourbillon? A previously unthinkable $267,500. Having spent a decade positioning the tourbillon as the holy grail of ine watchmaking, future innovations will surely revolve around making the complication a more affordable proposition. Good news for anyone who’s already bought into the magic of this dancing micro movement – not so much for those who have forked out on the previous ludicrously expensive models.
H MOSER & CIE ‘SWISS ALP WATCH MINUTE REPEATER TOURBILLON’, $462,000
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
153
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R G Q .COM . AU
155
Don’t call it a comeback
L
et’s just refer to them as what they once were, and shall remain, in this country – station wagons. You’ll have caught the marketing speak and unfurling of histories not ours – avants, tourers, estates, shooting brakes – though they are wagons (granted a term we nicked from our American cousins). Before we went all hard for soft roaders, the station wagon was a tentpole of Aussie motoring. It was an extended EH, Woody or Valiant, a Falcon or Commodore (worse, Camira) and it spoke proudly, almost boastfully, of family holidays with a dog wedged out back, panting for breath between a tepee of bags and BMXs. The wagon was about road trips and jostling with a brutish older sibling set on crushing a shoulder, about youthful surf
trips and the setting for adolescent fantasies given the backseat’s ability to be lattened. They were practical and useful these load luggers. And then, they were gone – driven off the road by a global desire to ride high in cars that spoke of heightened (false) safety and a similar capacity to carry all (and a dog). There’s little fatigue with SUVs in this country – they continue to clog roads with sales up a further 5.6 per cent in 2017, outselling traditional passenger cars for the irst time – though there’s also a hint that some people are at least again looking at climbing down and into something different. Statistics may speak of a shallow wagon market – and yet Porsche has just released its irst, the $200,000-plus ‘Panamera Sport Turismo’, so too Aston, its debut the V-12 ‘Vanquish Zagato Shooting Brake’.
Beyond such heightened examples actually sits a wealth of choice. The new, Germanmade Holden ‘Commodore RS Sportwagon’ is tricked-up and cuts a svelte igure compared to what went before, Merc’s 603hp ‘AMG E63 S’ is a family wagon on steroids and we applaud Skoda’s ‘Octavia RS’ (even despite that recent face lift). Elsewhere, the Renault ‘Megane GT’ wagon’s a bit of French that’s actually alright, while Volvo’s new ‘V60 T6’ (to land in a month or so) is rightly an anticipated release given the Swedes are now grafting magnetic style and performance into known reliability and practicality. Here at GQ, we’re all for wagons – because today they’re about much more than just carting about kids-and-crap. Especially if you can muscle in on these three.
WORDS: RICHARD CLUNE.
N OT Q U I T E , A N Y WAY. B U T W I T H I N C R E AS E D CHOICE, SUPERIOR STYLING AND GRUNTY D O N KS, T H E S E O P T I O N S M A K E I T T H E R I G H T T I M E TO C O N S I D E R S T E P P I N G D O W N FR O M A N SU V A N D I NTO A STATI O N WAG O N .
T H E STAT S
AT JUST OVER $150,000 THE ‘AVANT’ WILL HAVE YOU DIGGING DEEP INTO THE SAVINGS ACCOUNT. JUST LOOK AT IT THOUGH.
and was greatly appreciated on the twisty climb over Mount Boss. This is a wagon that snarls and snorts – with styling that bolsters its jocular credentials: low, squat and 80mm wider than before. There’s an additional $22,000 of equipment dumped into an interior that’s all leather and carbon ibre on top of the easily navigated tech and impressive driver aids; a 3D B&O surround-sound set-up featuring 19 speakers and panoramic sunroof as standard. The new ‘RS4 Avant’ is a true standout – especially in Nogaro blue – and a wagon that’ll have you believing in this shape as both a luxurious and mild-mannered daily drive and something that can’t help but bring the party when needed. Available now, from $152,900; audi.com.au
and they work – the Germans, being Germans, have igured all that out. You’re simply here to enjoy the ride. And you will – cocooned in this lengthy bit of luxury, a cabin of premium materials and space and ridiculously supple leather seats (though it’s a brave man who opts for white). The tech’s all large and wonderful and easy; the 360˚ camera something we came to love even more when you consider the length here. Its looks are more reined than the other two shouty types on these pages – still very appealing, just less sporty. A 2.0-litre engine delivers 185kw and 350Nm of torque – this being a car both agile on the road and underfoot, even if it’s all dreamy and loaty to sit in. Available now, from $115,500; bmw.com.au
BMW ‘530i Touring’ Another example as to why the ‘5 Series’ remains the German’s global superstar. Though it’s worth noting that this here wagon shape outstrips the ‘X5’ and ‘5 Series’ sedan for popularity in its home country. What else to know? Well, it’s a Beemer, so it’s ever-reliable and sharp and stately. Things are where you expect them to be
T H E STAT S
None made it to Australia, though it became an immediate global classic that’s morphed through time, arriving now in this glorious incarnation – a car being pushed as an ‘icon’ in marketing and advertising speak. What we know is that it’s a little rocket and very hard to fault. The previous V8, and DSG (dual-gear shiftbox), may have been replaced by a 2.9-litre bi-turbo V6 paired to an eight-speed box, but who cares with 331kW (a match for the V8), an incredible 600Nm of torque (up 170Nm) and an 80kg drop in weight? A claimed 0-100km/h time of 4.1 seconds seemed about right as we let the ‘RS4’ off the chain on country roads around Barnaby Joyce’s New England electorate, pushing things close to its locked 250km/h top speed. The all-wheel drive Quattro system is Spiderman-sticky S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 57
Jaguar XF ‘Sportbrake’ The irst Jag wagon to be offered in Australia comes at a time when the Brits are busily building things they said they never would – SUVs. One reason they said this was because it would dent sales of their estates (as they call them in Blighty). Thing is, not all of the rusted-on Jag customer base was fussed about heading up into the ‘F-Pace,’ and so along came this appealing ‘XF’. Firstly, it’s hard to go past the lithe (and lengthy at 4.95m) simple beauty on offer here; a car that looks far better than its sedan sibling and which also manages to turn heads (granted, less then the Audi).
Interesting to know, this was designed to complement the sedan and not as an afterthought. It drives equally as well as its (only slightly) shorter sibling too – our loan the 3.0-litre diesel V6 that delivers 221kw of power and 700Nm of torque. Not surprising, especially given that latter igure, it’s a car that shifts – though it’s admittedly not as maniacal or as much fun as the ‘RS4’. The interior’s more spacious than expected and the infotainment system’s one of the easiest out there (with a 10.2-inch screen) and, if you must know, the boot, with rear seats laid lat, can carry a large fridge freezer. Of course it can. Available now, from $90,400; jaguar.com.au
T H E STAT S
HAVING BEEN DESIGNED AS A SEDAN , WITH THE WAGON COMING AS AFTERTHOUGHT, THE ‘XF’ IS ELEGANT, NOT TO MENTION REASONABLY PRICED AT ONLY $90,400 .
Test drive
AG A I N W I T H T H E C O M PAC T S U VS? Y E S, A N D T H E S W E D E ’ S F I R S T FO R AY I N TO T H I S E X PA N D I N G S E G M E N T M E A N S A S L I C E O F F U N A N D D E C E N T VA LU E FO R M O N E Y.
VO LVO ‘ XC 4 0 ’
FUN FACTS
WHAT WE LOVE
WORDS: RICHARD CLUNE.
STYLING
While it’s not quite as appealing as its older, award-winning sibling, the ‘XC60’, it’s still a stylish standout in the dull sea of so-called compact SUVs we’re seeing at the moment. The square-jawed front-end features a welcome and dominant grille, flanked by Volvo’s signature Thor’shammer headlights and softly sloping roofline that draw the eye back and along. Eighteeninch alloys as standard also help out – though we’re here for the sportier ‘R-Design’ spec and its high-gloss grille and integrated black pipes out back.
ENGINE
We largely spent time with the petrol ‘T5’ on the recent national launch near Adelaide – getting to know what’s a pretty responsive 2.0-litre turbocharged engine capable of producing 185kW of power and 350Nm of torque as saddled to an eight-speed auto. It means a whippy 100km/h time of 6.5 seconds. The ‘D4’ diesel is a 2.0-litre twinturbocharged fourcylinder producing 140kW of power and 400Nm of torque. Both are AWD.
DRIVING
Grippy, certainly punchier than we were expecting and something that is, ultimately, a bit of fun to belt about in. That’s right – fun, a word not often associated with this Swedish marque. The driving position is high and welcoming – overseeing a 12.3-inch driver display that delivers all you need. We also managed to not feel too many bumps when hitting some rougher country patches – even on the R-Design’s 20-inch alloys. There’s actually little to fault for a car pitched as a stylish everyday runabout.
INTERIOR
Roomier than expected with some fine flourishes and details that make this appealing. That central media screen in portrait is something we’ve come to love – and it works again here supporting Apple CarPlay and Android Auto as well as sat nav while also pulling double duty as reversing camera. Further connectivity means wireless phone charging and USB ports (plural), a removable central console ‘bin’ and some really clever touches such as integrated bag hooks. R-Design adds a sunroof, premium Harman Kardon stereo, heated seats and tinted windows, among other welcome touches.
PRICE/ DELIVERY
Available now, with the basic ‘T5 Momentum’ from $47,990. Things move up with numerous options in play, with our preferred ‘T5 R-Design’ coming in from $54,990. The diesels are the more expensive option, starting from $50,990 and increasing to $59,740 before on-road costs. Such numbers are arguably steep - largely because many still don’t think of Volvo as a true premium marque. But it is, and such figures sit neatly against what’s offered by the other Euros. volvo.com.au
The design further cements the progressive push by Volvo to be recognised as more than just safe. Also, some of the storage options are wonderfully intuitive and make you wonder why others haven’t followed suit.
ONE THING TO KNOW There’s an all-electric ‘XC40’ coming, rumoured to land in 2019 and cost less than Jag’s new ‘I-Pace’. If that’s more your go, then sit tight.
DRIVING SONG Let’s be honest, this is more a podcast player.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R G Q .COM . AU
159
LET’S
FIGHT Your family could be losing $195 a month by wasting food. JOIN THE MOVEMENT
www.ightfoodwaste.org
AUSTRALIA
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE THIS ISSUE, IN CELEBRATING THE INDIVIDUALS AND COMPANIES MAKING THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE, WE TURN OUR ATTENTION TO FASHION AND THE STORES PROVING FACE-TO-FACE RETAIL IS FAR FROM DEAD.
PR ES E NTE D BY
SUPPORTING PA R T N E R S
Retail therapy SOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST FASHION STORES ARE RESTORING OUR FAITH IN BRICKS AND MORTAR – AND REDEFINING THE FUTURE OF RETAIL. STARTING WITH LA HOTSPOT MAGASIN.
I
t’s something you hear a lot. With the rise of online shopping, actual stores are set to be a thing of the past – relegated to little more than nostalgic throwbacks, like landline phones or slow news days. But look around, and it’s clear something’s up. For starters, physical stores are hardly extinct. And while online competition has had an effect, in many cases it’s been a positive one; pushing good stores to be even better, in a bid to stand out from the pack. We’re talking more carefully curated product ranges, cooler interiors, better service. 1 62
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
None of this will come as a surprise to Josh Peskowitz. The former writer for The Fader, Esquire and GQ worked as the men’s fashion director for Bloomingdales, before launching LA menswear mecca, Magasin in 2016. “A lot of the things I’ve done over the years have taught me various aspects of the menswear market,” he told GQ. “So I inally decided, fuck it, let me try and put all of them together in one place and see if other people respond.” They did. Today, Magasin has built a cult following not just in LA but around the world, thanks to exclusive drops from the likes of
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE
WHERE THE COOL KIDS SHOP SIX RETAILERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD THAT ARE WORTH BASING A HOLIDAY AROUND. (REALLY.)
Golden Goose, Dries Van Noten, Billy Reid and Levi’s Made and Crafted, with whom Peskowitz also collaborated on a unique capsule collection earlier this year. In other words, cool, hard-to-ind menswear that keeps people coming back. “I had a very speciic idea how I wanted it to look and feel,” he says. “We look for craftsmanship; we look for rarity. We want people to be able to come to the store and ind something special. “We champion colour, we champion fabric, we champion cut,” he adds. “So people can understand how we can it into their existing wardrobe – we’re not saying, ‘This is your uniform and you must dress like this’. We want people to have their individual style – ours is just one point of view.” While online stores have provided competition, Peskowitz isn’t one to lament the internet. Quite the opposite. He says it’s provided an opportunity to reach customers who might otherwise have never wandered through the door, and to cultivate a devoted following. “When you look around at the small, independent stores that people really admire, their inluence has grown and grown. When everyone has access to everything all the time, the only thing that’s really of value is context and a point of view. “The idea of trying be a generalist is over,” he says. “If you try to set up a store that’s going to have something for everyone, you’re not going to get anyone. You need to stand for something. And the beauty of the internet is that if you do that, they can ind you.” It doesn’t hurt, of course, that Peskowitz already had a following, well before Magasin opened its doors. A street-style star in his own right, he was regularly snapped front-row at fashion weeks around the world, and there were already plenty of fashion fanboys who subscribed to his point of view on fashion. Magasin just gave them a place to access it. “But,” Peskowitz is quick to point out, “nothing happens overnight. Whether you’re online or in-store, the most important thing is your reputation. And that takes a while to build.” MAGASINTHESTORE.COM
“THE IDEA OF TRYING TO BE A GENERALIST IS OVER.”
MONSTER, SHANGHAI The high-end South Korean retailer launched in 2011 and is credited with bringing hype to the eyewear industry. Just look at the queues lined up outside, waiting for the latest sunglass drop. A favourite of the country’s enormously popular K-Pop stars, its stores – which began in South Korea, but have since expanded to Shanghai, New York, LA and Singapore – feel more like surreal art galleries than anything resembling a typical retail space. Yes, the eyewear is great, but by providing a retail experience that goes well beyond the ordinary, Gentle Monster has managed to stand out from the pack. And in the optical industry, that’s no small feat. GENTLEMONSTER.COM
ABOVE
Shanghai’s Gentle Monster is part art installation part sunglasses store.
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE
The cavernous German concept store was founded in 2003, and has garnered a reputation for its range – everything from clothes and accessories, to grooming products and homewares – as well as its unique collaborations. In addition to working with specific brands,
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 65
HOW ONE AUSSIE RETAILER DEFIED THE ODDS IF YOU WERE THE BETTING TYPE, FIVE YEARS AGO HARROLDS MIGHT HAVE LOOKED LIKE A RISKY WAGER. BUT THE LUXURY DEPARTMENT STORE HAS PROVED ITSELF ONE OF LOCAL RETAIL’S GREATEST SUCCESS STORIES – AND THE GOOD NEWS IS, THAT MEANS WE’RE ALL WINNERS.
I
t was only a matter of time before its luck would run out. Harrolds might have been an established name in Australia since the mid-’80s, but many believed it was on borrowed time. Respected industry journal The Business of Fashion announced that customers no longer wanted to venture into exclusive boutiques, when they could simply buy online from the comfort of their own home. Or, if they did, they’d go instore to try things on and then buy online anyway. “It’s the kind of thing you hear over and over again from savvy locals,” wrote BoF editor, Imran Amed, “especially those who have had a taste of international product and service offerings and are unwilling to pay a premium for shopping locally.” It’s a fair point, too. Except, of course, the article was published ive years ago. Since then, Harrolds has not only survived but thrived, adding a stand-alone womenswear store in Sydney, opening a store in Gold Coast’s Paciic Fair Shopping Centre and expanding its already impressive lagship in Melbourne’s Collins Street. Clearly Harrolds didn’t get the memo. Today, Harrolds managing director Ross Poulakis wears that article as a badge of honour. Looking back, it seems this was yet another example within the industry, where – to paraphrase Mark Twain – the rumours about the imminent death of bricks and mortar had been greatly exaggerated. “They used Harrolds as an example, saying we won’t make it past ive years because it’s seen as a showroom now. Clients will go in, see a product they like and then buy it online, which is just completely false,” says Poulakis now. “I don’t actually see the internet as a competitor – I see it as a tool to educate our clients on products, styling and brands.” The stats are interesting. Last year, Australian men spent almost $200m on
clothing. And while last year was the sixth consecutive year of double-digit growth for online fashion retail, 64 per cent of millennials said they would rather shop in store than online – if it has the right atmosphere. The same report also reveals the fact that some 86 per cent of under-45s said music makes a shopping experience more enjoyable. They’re telling stats. “The environment plays such a big role,” agrees Poulakis. “At the end of the day, they’re buying a want – not a need – so they need to feel like they’ve got that amazing surrounding. That experience has been the biggest focus of the business, since we opened our doors in 1985.” Naturally, that experience goes beyond music or atmosphere alone. Poulakis says focusing on their level of service is what has created a dedicated customer base. “Our men’s customer is so diverse now and varies so much in age, but the best way to describe our male client is loyal. The way I see it, the product is secondary – we also sell conidence. “There’s no better feeling than talking to someone, touching the product, being educated on it, and then walking out with that bag. We’re seen as trusted advisors and we build upon the relationship. That’s something that’s really worked well within our business.” Harrolds might be a luxury fashion store, but Poulakis is quick to point out examples where his service has gone well beyond which shoes, clothing and accessories to buy – advising loyal customers on which car will best suit them, or organising for VIP experiences. After all, they’re selling a lifestyle as much as a look. “We have a client who loves Stefano Ricci,” he recalls. “He was in Milan, so I organised for him to meet the designer himself, and they had dinner. It wasn’t
an in-store experience, but it was something he will cherish. That’s such an important thing for luxury shoppers – it’s not just about what happens in store. It’s about the lifestyle.” Providing advice and assistance is one thing. But Poulakis says there’s another keyelement that keeps his loyal customers coming back through the door: their range. There are the staple heritage brands such as Stefano Ricci, Brioni or Tom Ford, and the big names, from Saint Laurent to Valentino and Balenciaga. But Harrolds prides itself on the brands you might not expect.
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE
TREND ALERT WHERE TO FOCUS YOUR ATTENTION THIS COMING SEASON AS TOLD BY HARROLDS MD, ROSS POULAKIS.
TAILORING
FOOTWEAR
ACCESSORIES
“Streetwear is such a big part of fashion, but the shift is moving back towards modern tailoring. The oldschool brands are always evolving.”
“Sneakers have been a global phenomenon and they’ve been fantastic for our business and a lot of businesses internationally.”
“Men’s small leather goods just keep growing. You see a lot of gentlemen in Europe who always walk with a bag, so in Australia, I think we’ll see more of a focus on men’s bags.”
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 67
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE Each season, Harrolds’ buyers are tasked with scouring the runways for fresh, cool brands or new trends that will be the Next Big Thing – and not just for next season, but two, three, even four seasons down the track. Today, you’re just as likely to see established fashion houses at Harrolds, as you are to run into a label you might be seeing for the irst time – the likes of Craig Green, Heron Preston, or streetwear newcomer, A Cold Wall. “You always have to remain ahead of the game,” says Pouakis. “We don’t rest on our laurels with the major brands that we work with – it’s also about introducing something new and different. That keeps the client interested because the last thing they want to do is come in and see the same products all the time.” One example is Thom Browne. Today, the brand is huge – a label that’s managed to not simply revolutionise the suiting silhouette, but become a fashion powerhouse. Last year, it reported growths of 25-30 per cent, with annual revenues topping $100m. But it wasn’t always that way. “Thom Browne, that was such a small component of our business [when we introduced it in 2011], but it was a brand
The history of Harrolds 1985 Opens at the Rialto in Melbourne
1994 Second store opens in Collins Street, Melbourne
1997 Moves from Rialto to Crown Casino
2000 Opens in Sydney’s Martin Place
2005 Melbourne store moves to current location at 101 Collins Street
2009 Becomes a men’s luxury department store
2010 Moves to the new Westfield Sydney location
2011 Introduces Tom Ford in Sydney
2015 Launches first dedicated womenswear store in Sydney
2016 Opens in Gold Coast’s Pacific Fair Shopping Centre
2017 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
The store front at Harrolds’ Pacific Fair location on the Gold Coast; looks from Thom Browne (right) and Tom Ford’s (left) AW18 collections.
168
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
Expands Melbourne’s flagship store to include womenswear. Opens outlet store at Birkenhead Point, Sydney.
we really believed in,” he says. “But sticking with it and growing it, it’s now one of the most successful brands we have in the store.” More recently, Lardini has become another of Poulakis’ favourite brands. The Italian label has been growing in popularity for its cooler, less stuffy interpretation of tailoring that has offered a welcome middle-ground between relaxed streetwear and classic suiting. “Lardini, for me, is a huge one,” he says. “It’s not traditional tailoring – it’s very edgy, very modern – and we’re really going to push that brand. Streetwear is still such a big part of fashion, but we’re seeing the shift is moving back towards a modern tailoring twist. “We’re bringing some brands in that are riding that wave – so when the streetwear craze inishes, we’ve already covered the new trend that in our opinion is going to be modern tailoring,” he adds. “You can already see the trend in countries like South Korea and Japan, where the Lardini brothers are treated like rockstars!” It’s not just introducing new brands. Not surprisingly, Poulakis has bigger plans. “For us it’s always looking to grow and innovate,” he says. “One of my goals is also to have a Harrolds store in an international market, and that’s something we’ll deinitely be looking at in the next ive years.” And there’s another surprising innovation Poulakis has up his sleeve: Harrolds is looking to add an online store. “We’re making sure it’s not just another online store, that it has an experience that relates back to the brand,” he says. Poulakis is hoping to have it up and running late next year. Beyond that, it’s hard to know what the future holds. But if there’s any lesson that Harrolds can teach us, one thing is clear: predict it at your peril. “The next ive years are deinitely going to be challenging,” he laughs. “But really exciting, too.”
AUSTRALIA’S BEST GUIDE TO EATING OUT
RECIPES
EAT OUT
FOOD FILES
ENTERTAINING
TRAVEL
DRINKS
EVENTS
DELICIOUS 100 LATEST NEWS RESTAURANTS CAFES
Search delicious. for over 10,000 recipes and restaurants
SEARCH
WHERE TO EAT?
>
> Find thousands of restaurants, cafes and bars
MANU REVIEWS
LOCATE Eat Out wherever you are! With our user-friendly interactive map, you can plot your journey to dining bliss with ease.
Manu Feildel joins our team of critics for monthly restaurant reviews.
CHEFS TALK BACK We give the chefs the right to respond to reviews.
The Pink Pony C ampaign is the Ralph L auren Corporations’ worldwide i n i t i a t i v e t o f i g h t a g a i n s t c a n c e r. The Pink Pony Fund of The Ralph L auren Foundation will recieve 1 0 0% of t h e g l o b a l p r o c e e d s f r o m t h e “ L i v e L o v e ” l i g h t p i n k t- s h i r t s . G l o b a l l y, 2 5 % o f t h e p r o c e e d s f r o m t h e P i n k P o n y c o l l e c t i o n a r e d i r e c t e d to an international network of cancer charities . J o i n th e f ig ht R A L P H L AU R E N .CO M / P I N K P O N Y
F I N A N C E , I N N O VA T I O N , B U S I N E S S S AV V Y A N D T H E K E Y S T O S E C U R I N G P R O F E S S I O N A L S U C C E S S
PHOTOGRAPHY: GOOGLE EARTH; ALAMY.
THE MOST EXPENSIVE STREET IN AUSTRALIA - AND HOME TO PM MALCOLM TURNBULL. YOU’VE GOT TO START SOMEWHERE, RIGHT?
GET IN THE PROPERTY GAME I T’ S S T I L L P O S S I B L E - E N T E R T H I S WAY. WO R DS ADAM BAI DAW I
N
avigating Australia’s real-estate market is a dizzying experience at the best of times. Every other week, there’s a story about an imminent decline, the nearinevitable rising of interest rates, the right way to time the market – if there’s a right way at all. Sydney and Melbourne are softening, fast. While Hobart’s exploded in the past 12 months, with property prices up doubledigits. For the busy man, it’s more than a little tricky to keep pace. Our suggestion? Look to the data-crunching experts to help plan the best path forward. Beyond that, we asked different industry authorities for the best options that will set you on the way to owning your irst home.
OPTION
1
Save
Team up
Here’s the deal: the average twentysomething couple in Sydney takes around six years and eight months to save up for their firsthome deposit. And we shudder to think of what that figure would look like as a one-man band. But, if you’re feeling behind, this might be a little comforting. The average age for an Australian first home buyer is 34. Even if you’re a little over that mark, you’re not necessarily in bad shape. “The figure is probably a lot older than you may have thought,” says Domain’s data scientist, Nicola Powell. domain.com.au
Build a buffer
Fact: we’re in a historical low-interest-rate environment. Fact: it’s unlikely to stay this way, long-term. “You need to factor in a buffer – we’re already seeing increased
Save smart and setting that price point from the start,” says Powell. Basically? Assume the worst. Try to put away an extra five per cent of your salary to create a little breathing space between you and your impending mortgage repayments.
Get in the market If you’ve got a strong foothold on a good salary, but are still struggling to maintain the discipline to save for a home, there’s a surefire way to light a fire under the backside: “Get into the market,” says Nerida Conisbee, the chief economist for realestate. com.au. By getting into the market – that is, laying down a deposit on a home – you’ve got the strictest savings plan going. “Most people are just such poor savers – and it’s an enforced way of saving.” realestate.com.au
Been noticing a creeping quantity of orange ING cards in your mate’s wallet? Has he started using phrases like the ‘Don Bradman Retirement Strategy’? Odds are, he’s one of more than half a million Australians who’ve read The Barefoot Investor – Scott Pape’s unflinchingly conversational (and accessible) guide to personal finance. To many at the upper end of society, Pape’s advice might seem patently obvious, but for those just starting – or restarting – a financial journey, think of it as a solid foundation to build upon.
THE AVERAGE PRICES FOR ENTRY-LEVEL PROPERTIES ACROSS THE COUNTRY, WITH HOBART THE CHEAPEST AND SYDNEY THE MOST EXPENSIVE - NO SURPRISES THERE.
DARWIN $385,000
BRISBANE $417,000 PERTH $391,000
ADELAIDE $360,000
SYDNEY $689,975 CANBERRA $542,000 MELBOURNE $582,500 HOBART $300,000
“ W E ’ V E H A D S U C H A LO W- I N T E R E S T- R AT E E N V I R O N M E N T T H AT I T’ S B E E N E ASY FO R P E O P L E TO E X T E N D T H E M S E LV E S . FO R A F I R S TH O M E B U Y E R , T H AT’ S T H E W R O N G T H I N G TO D O. A D D I N T H AT B U F F E R , S O T H AT I F T H E R E A R E A N Y F U T U R E I N T E R E S T- R AT E H I K E S , YO U CA N COPE WITH A CHANG E TO A MORTGAG E R E PAYM E NT.” - N I C O L A P O W E L L
OPTION
2
buy now Expand your horizons
THE NUMBERS 20 per cent Your non-negotiable deposit igure. It means you’ll avoid lenders’ mortgage insurance – an extra loan fee that clasps on to your mortgage, with interest.
$30,000 The amount you could gain under the new First Home Super Saver Scheme, which came into place on July 1.
5.5 Years it would take an average couple to save for a home in Campbelltown, NSW – the fastest path to a home within 100km of Sydney’s CBD.
30 per cent The proportion of your take-home pay that should be spent on mortgage repayments.
$360,000 Cost of an entry-level unit in Maribyrnong – 9km from the Melbourne CBD.
$91,686 Average deposit required for an entry-level home in an Australian capital city.
“For a first-home buyer, we spend a lot of time talking about median prices of suburbs. But there’s an array of different price points within a market,” says Powell. In the (sometimes pessimistic) trawl through potential realestate targets, it’s easy to price yourself out of a suburb based solely on median price. Powell says your first-home target should be in a suburb’s 25th percentile – or the bottom 25 per cent of pricing. “Once first-home buyers stop focusing on that median price, and look at the array of prices, it probably opens up a number of suburbs within their purchasing budget.”
Be a trendsetter
Young, stylish buyers have long flocked out to suburbs that seem unsexy, only for those suburbs to quickly become cool to the point of saturation a few years later. Good news: the formula still works. “Look at areas that are about to undergo gentrification,” says Conisbee. She says that suburbs in both Sydney and Melbourne’s west have been overlooked by buyers, even though they’ve been among the country’s top performers for over a decade. “If you can’t afford Newtown, don’t worry, just go a bit further out. This ripple effect tends to lead to better-performing suburbs,” says Conisbee. Conisbee’s ripple effect goes like so: cool, young people move into a suburb. The demand for the local retail precinct changes and trendy cafes and restaurants start to pop up. What’s not always good news for the area’s original inhabitants, does offer an enticing opportunity for those wanting to enter the market.
Know your benefits
Don’t be afraid of compromise
Every state and territory has a scheme in place to assist first-home buyers, says Powell – and a heap of first-time buyers are finding just the bump along they needed. “We looked at the participation rate of firsthome buyers. One of the remarkable impacts of both New South Wales and Victoria abolishing stamp duty for first-home buyers is the influx of first-home buyers on the market.” In Sydney, the number of first-time buyers is up 76 per cent, while in Melbourne that figure is hovering, respectfully, in the midthirties. “It’s essential to make sure you do your research,” says Powell. firsthome.gov.au
The detached home, backyard and all, remains a highly romanticised part of Australian culture. And we’re happy to further douse it with daydreaming and romance. But, if you’ve got your heart set on the big traditional Aussie home – and nothing else – you may have to sacrifice other areas of your life. “The dream of that quarter-acre block is really still burning strongly in a lot of first-home buyers. Many of them, to access the market, are moving to the Central Coast, and commuting to work into the Sydney CBD, every single day,” says Powell. “Others make a compromise, moving into a unit that’s better connected to transport.” A similar trend is playing out in Victoria, where suburbs like Ballarat – around 90 minutes out of Melbourne – are exploding with new buyers. “They’re close to central Ballarat, and close to trains that connect directly to Melbourne – and the data shows it’s young people buying,” says Conisbee. “Your first home is unlikely to be your forever home, so don’t worry if you’re not buying exactly what you want,” says Conisbee. “Getting into the property market is really the first step – it puts you in a very different financial position.”
Choose your timing As the market lurches towards something resembling a correction, you should take a little extra care when entering. “What we’re seeing, particularly in Sydney and in Melbourne, is that it’s the higher-end prices that are softening – we’re still seeing growth in the lower end of the market,” says Powell. “Sydney in particular has lost the element of urgency. It was going at this frenetic pace – buyers felt like they were going to miss out, and jumped in. That in itself has driven up the market.” But the key takeaway, is that, in a wild market, you’ve got an upper hand. As Powell explains, in parts of Australia, stock levels are at their highest point in years. Clearance rates are dropping. Consider that an ace up your sleeve.
“ YO U R F I R S T H O M E I S U N L I K E LY TO B E YO U R FO R E V E R H O M E , S O D O N ’ T W O R RY I F YO U ’ R E NOT BUYI NG EX ACTLY WHAT YOU WANT. G ET TI NG I N TO T H E P R O P E R T Y M A R K E T I S R E A L LY T H E F I R S T S T E P – I T P U T S YO U I N A V E RY D I F F E R E N T F I N A N C I A L P O S I T I O N .” - N E R I D A C O N I S B E E
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
17 3
hedge 3 your bets
OPTION
How it works
Find a property you want to live and invest in, then save a minimum of five per cent of the asking price – so, less than you would if you were buying. CoVesta will set up a syndicate and help you find other (non-occupying) investors to join. When the asking price is secured, CoVesta will buy the property on your behalf. You move in and CoVesta holds the property for five years, during which time there’s no danger of you being kicked out. At the end of that time, the syndicate votes to either sell or keep the property. If the decision is to sell, as the investing occupier you have the first right to buy everyone else out. Or you stay, continue to live there and watch your investment rise.
Daniel Noble
Best of both
But do you have to stay there during the whole five years, and beyond? No. Noble, tells us, “If your lifestyle changes, you can just move out, but your investment stays there”. If it sounds a little confusing, it’s because it’s an entirely new concept. “We’re trying to change the way people are linking investment to property,” explains Noble. Not only is it a more convenient way of renting – protecting you from whimsical rent increases or being booted out altogether – it’s also a more secure savings plan. If you were saving for a deposit, you’d be getting around 1 per cent interest from the bank. But with Invest and Rent, “You can put that money, into essentially a savings account – into a property – which is going to get you a higher return.” And the clincher, offsetting your rent against your ownership stake means you’ll be paying less rent. A win-win – rare in a market known for its fair share of losses. COVESTA.COM.AU
“ P E O P L E I N T H E I R L AT E 2 0 S A N D 3 0 S W O R RY A B O U T P R O P E R T Y P R I C E S G O I N G U P. T H E Y R U S H I N TO T H E M A R K E T. H O U S E P R I C E S H AV E A P P R E C I AT E D M O R E Q U I C K LY T H A N U N I T P R I C E S – I T’ S T H E L A N D T H AT’ S A P P R E C I AT I N G , N OT S O M U C H T H E B U I L D I N G I T S E L F. I T’ S A VERY IMPORTANT DISTINCTION.” - D O M I N I C C R O W L E Y
174
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
OPTION
4
don’t buy at all “The notion that, ‘rent money is dead money’ is rubbish. Rent is a payment for a service – and being housed is a pretty important service,” says Dominic Crowley, the economist who wrote a paper comparing the economic outcomes of renters versus owners in Australia. His research project was partly inspired by him and his now-wife coming second in a tight auction in 2013. In crunching some 35 years of Australian real-estate data, Crowley was left with a few key takeaways. Firstly, if you’re thinking of buying, the one-off transactional costs you’re hit with will eat into your short-term profits. “Circumstances change, but it’s important that you’re confident that you want to live in that property for five to 10 years.” The thinking’s simple: by hopping from property to property, a significant chunk of your change will be lost in the transactional ether. Secondly, look beyond the surface of the market: Crowley says it’s land, not buildings that’re going up in value. “People in their late 20s and 30s worry about property prices going up. They rush into the market. House prices have appreciated more quickly than unit prices – it’s the land that’s appreciating, not so much the building itself. It’s a very important distinction.” Post-research, Crowley is hardly cynical about those who choose to rent in the short and long-term. “Renting in a well-located area ( relative to buying in a poorly located area) can mean greater access to jobs, less travel time, better social opportunities and so on.” And, if you’re wondering how the research affected Crowley’s own thinking as an economist, the proof might be in the pudding: he’s still renting. “I wouldn’t be confident that I’d want to live in this apartment for the next five to 10 years. We have a sixmonth-old baby. We might have another,” says Crowley, the rare breed of fellow who can take his own advice.
MELBOURNE’S ST KILDA AND ST KILDA EAST - TWO OF THE MOST POPULAR RENTAL SUBURBS IN THE COUNTRY.
MOST SOUGHT AFTER SUBURBS FOR RENTERS 1
Burleigh Heads (QLD)
2
St Kilda East (VIC)
3
Abbotsford (VIC)
4
St Kilda (VIC)
5
Palm Beach (QLD)
6
Burleigh Waters (QLD)
7
Surfers Paradise (QLD)
8
South Melbourne (VIC)
9
Richmond (VIC)
10
Fitzroy (QLD)*
ADDITIONAL WORDS: CHRISTOPHER RILEY. *SOURCE: REAL ESTATE.COM.AU/RENT
Can’t make your mind up? Don’t bother. After its launch earlier this year, property investment platform CoVesta has set about offering the average person more options than the traditional binary of rent or buy. Set up by property expert Daniel Noble after failing to find his mother-in-law a house within two hours of Sydney – even with a budget of more than half a million – CoVesta began upheaving the traditional route to ownership by offering the everyday person an array of options, previously unheard of. Our favourite – its Invest and Rent initiative that enables you to live in a property you’re renting and own equity in the house at the same time.
UNTIL 7 OCTOBER
MELBOURNE WINTER MASTERPIECES
130 YEARS OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART FROM THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK. ONLY IN MELBOURNE. NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA
PRESENTED BY
NGV PRINCIPAL PARTNER
MAJOR PARTNERS
Roy Lichtenstein Drowning girl, 1963. Oil and synthetic polymer paint on canvas, 171.6 x 169.5 cm. The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Philip Johnson Fund (by exchange) and gift of Mr. and Mrs. Bagley Wright, 1971. © Estate of Roy Lichtenstein / Licensed by Copyright Agency, 2018
NGV.MELBOURNE
SU BSCR I B E A BONUS GIFT
* $64.95
Subscribe from just and receive a bonus duffle bag THE BIG STYLE ISSUE KILLER T R E N D S, W A T C H E S, S H O E S, HOTELS & MORE
LOSING STREAK
NEW WORLD ORDER FASHION'S BIGGEST PLAYERS
SHARPER. SMARTER. BETTER.
AFL'S HIDDEN GAMBLING CRISIS
HOW TO PLAY THE PROPERTY GAME THE PSYCHEDELICS TACKLING MENTAL ILLNESS
Kendrick lamar POET, PULITZER-WINNER, GENIUS
*AUTO-RENEWAL PRINT SUBSCRIPTION OFFER OF $64.95 WILL BE CHARGED TO YOUR CREDIT CARD FOR THE FIRST 12 MONTHS (8 ISSUES), THEN $64.95 AUTOMATIC CREDIT CARD PAYMENT EVERY 12 MONTHS (8 ISSUES) THEREAFTER. AUTOMATIC PAYMENTS WILL CONTINUE FOR YOUR SUBSCRIPTION UNLESS OTHERWISE ADVISED BY YOU OR UNTIL THE NOMINATED CREDIT CARD EXPIRES. YOU CAN CANCEL ANY TIME. BONUS GIFT AVAILABLE FOR AUSTRALIAN DELIVERY ONLY. A STANDARD ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION CONSISTS OF EIGHT ISSUES. OFFER ENDS OCTOBER 7, 2018.
AN D RECE IVE THE PERFECT SIZE FOR ANY OCCASION, THIS STYLISH DUFFLE BAG HAS AMPLE ROOM FOR ALL YOUR TRAVEL ESSENTIALS AND IS THE PERFECT GYM BAG TO FIT ALL YOUR FITNESS GEAR.
SU B SC R I B E N OW
VISIT MAGSONLINE.COM.AU/GQ/M1809GQS OR CALL 1300 656 933 AND QUOTE M1809GQS
M
emorial day, Peter Luger Steak House, Brooklyn: Kendrick Lamar orders salmon. He is wearing a black baseball cap, white T-shirt, and grey-andblue pants, and I’m seated to his right at an upstairs table for 10. To my right is Kendrick’s TDE (Top Dawg Entertainment) label-mate, rapper, and friend Jay Rock, and the rest of our lunch party is comprised of friends and associates of Kendrick’s: Dave Free, his friend since ninth grade, manager, co-director of their groundbreaking videos, and TDE president; Dave’s assistant, Keaton Smith; Kendrick’s assistant, Derrick McCall; photographer/videographer Chris Parsons; head of TDE security 2Teez; TDE general manager retOne; and publicist Ray Alba. Except for Kendrick’s ish choice, everyone else orders cheeseburgers and steak – medium rare. Platters of fries and creamed spinach are brought to the table. Despite people sitting at tables all around us, we are left alone. Kendrick, who has a reputation as enigmatic and shy, warms up as we talk about music, basketball, government, taxes, other rappers and awards. I tell them that LeBron James wore a TDE T-shirt at practice the day before – prior to Game Seven of the Eastern Conference inals. We talk about Madison Square Garden, where, the following night, Kendrick will perform his irst sold-out headlining show at the world’s most famous arena as part of the 30-date TDE Championship tour, with a lineup of the label’s artists. We talk about the changes in Harlem, the changes in Brooklyn, and how New York is no longer the city that never sleeps. There is a wide-ranging conversation about the music Kendrick grew up listening to in Compton, California: the Temptations (he was named after lead singer Eddie Kendricks), Curtis Mayield, Marvin Gaye, Michael Jackson and gangsta rap – and I answer queries about my interviews of yesteryear. I tell Kendrick to forget about the three times he was nominated for the best-album Grammy and didn’t win (though I didn’t say it quite so politely) and congratulate him on winning the Pulitzer Prize – the irst for a non-classical or non-jazz musician, and the irst for a rapper. Kendrick always appears to be thinking, or listening, until he breaks into a gap-toothed grin, or a laugh. These guys know each other well – especially Dave and Kendrick, who inish each other’s sentences – and the vernacular is uniltered, rooted in hip-hop and the streets of Compton. Following lunch, we all get into a Mercedes ‘Sprinter’, stopping at a pop-up store on Hudson Street in Manhattan that sells a clothing collaboration between TDE and Nike (with whom Kendrick also has a shoe deal). Then we head uptown to an East Side hotel, where he and I sit and talk for over an hour. In addition to winning this year’s Pulitzer Prize for music, Kendrick Lamar has sold more than 17.8 million albums, been nominated for 29 Grammys and won 12. His work is archived in the library at Harvard University. He’s been described as the poet laureate of hip-hop, perceptive, philosophical, unapologetic, fearless, and an innovative storyteller whose body of work has been compared to James Joyce and James Baldwin. He’s collaborated with, among many others – Jay-Z, Eminem, Dr Dre, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Bono, Pharrell Williams, 50 Cent and Maroon 5. He writes about being young, black, poor and gifted in America with a candid self-awareness of who he is, where he’s
from and where he’s been. Pharrell (who worked with Kendrick on the songs ‘Good Kid’ and ‘Alright’) had told me, “He’s the Bob Dylan, the Miles Davis of our time, but he’s his own thing. His ability to entertain while educating, without ever being preachy, is amazing.” I ask Kendrick how he balances his enormous success and celebrity with his extreme work ethic. “You can get put in an environment that can bring down your integrity and your ight,” he says. “What gives me an advantage in my upbringing is the duality of seeing one of the most beautiful moments of me being six years old, to the most tragic moment of being 13 or 14, and make that connection so the person [listening] can really see the conlict. It was a mindfuck, for sure. I would wake up one morning, and it would be cartoons and cereal and walking back from school. And at 4PM, we’d be having a house party ’til 11PM… and people [were] shooting each other outside the door. That was my lifestyle. And it’s not only mine; it’s so many other individuals’. And I wanted to tell that story.” mong other individuals with whom his story resonates are the NBA basketball players who grew up either in Compton or similar Los Angeles neighbourhoods. According to Orlando Magic forward Arron Aflalo – name-checked in Kendrick’s song ‘Black Boy Fly’ (“I used to be jealous of Arron Aflalo”) – “If you’re in Compton, with all that negativity and violence, and you know you have the talent that Kendrick obviously has, and you watch someone that’s successful, I don’t think ‘jealous’ is a negative word. It’s something that made him hungry; he knew what he could become.” Toronto Raptors’ DeMar DeRozan, who grew up near Kendrick, says, “Everything he raps about is what we had to overcome and grow through,” and Oklahoma City Thunder Russell Westbrook adds, “He grew up in the same neighbourhoods I grew up in, and to see him be able to explain the struggles of his upbringing through his music is inspirational; he’s opening people’s eyes to what people go through in the inner city.”
A
“It takes guts, courage, and skill to shoulder the burden of a generation’s mind-set. Culturally, Kendrick Lamar is that compass – in fact, a GPS – in this current Hour of Chaos. That enough is worth a Pulitzer Prize or any award that sets the bar high.” CHUCK D endrick Lamar Duckworth was born in Compton 31 years ago to Paula Oliver and Kenny Duckworth and is the oldest of four siblings. He started freestyling around the age of eight, when, he tells me, he mostly rapped about drugs. But by the time he was 16, under the name K Dot (his closest friends still call him Dot), he got serious about music. “I was recording in Dave [Free]’s garage,” he tells me, “and Dave said he had to get my music to Top [Anthony ‘Top Dawg’ Tifith], who was getting into the music business. The irst day in the [vocal] booth, Top said, ‘Let me see if this is really you,’ and I was just freestyling, rapping whatever came into my head, sweating for two hours.” Dave Free said, “The irst time I ever heard him rap, I had to listen back because it was so developed, super-complex, and I just couldn’t believe it, since he was so
K
PREVIOUS PAGE
Lamar wearing Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. ABOVE AND BELLOW
Lamar before going on stage in New York; rapper, and close friend of Lamar, Jay Rock (far left, in red), with producer Hykeem Carter and security director, 2Teez.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 81
young.” (After Kendrick’s early EPs and mixtapes, Free told him that it was time for him to drop the K Dot and use his real name.) And Top, now the head of TDE, who described himself then as “a local street dude who was trying to change his life for the better,” adds, “What impressed me was how advanced Kendrick was at 16 years old. He spoke from an adult perspective every time he touched the mic. Over the course of 15 years, I’ve
watched him evolve from a kid on the corner breaking down street tales to a creative genius breaking down cultural barriers.” Kendrick tells me that most of the kids he knew from elementary school are either dead or in jail. But, he says, he was more grounded because he had a mother and a father in the home. “It makes a huge difference,” he says. “It shows you loyalty. When I look around at my classmates and my friends, they all lived with their grandparents. To have a mother and a father in your household – this showed me immediately that anything is possible.” On his major-label debut, good kid, m.A.A.d city, both his parents are heard on answering-machine tapes, and their language is tough, uninhibited. His mother, after KENDRICK LAMAR
“The minute I hear good news, it just motivates me to do more. I don’t want to get complacent. If you asked seven out of ten people, ‘What would you do if you got the Pulitzer Prize?’ they’d say, ‘I’d put my feet up’. But that would make me feel I’d reached my pinnacle at 30 years old, and that wouldn’t make me feel good.”
yelling at him to bring back her van, then turns tender and says, “I love you, Kendrick,” and tells him to take this music thing seriously, be a positive person and come back and tell your stories to your city. She adds that his music better be something that she and his father “can step to, because we from Chicago and that’s what we do”. Kendrick tells me his parents were young when they left Chicago with just $500 and wound up in a Compton hotel. “Mom had to go to McDonald’s to get hired; my father had to ind friends, and it was a whole gang culture… They were learning and they did the best they could do as far as protecting me. But they loved to indulge in that fast lifestyle… the partying and everything that comes with it. My mother encouraged me to dream – she was very proud of my efforts. My third-grade teacher came up to my mother once at a parent-teacher meeting and she said, ‘Your son used a word that I was totally amazed by – he said audacity’. Even then, it gave me an advantage in life, to be able to take information, listen to it, and take a perspective without judging it and do my own research. The duality was that my father was more like, ‘OK, good, now do it again’. There never was a super-embrace – and it gave me an understanding of being critiqued. Almost like ‘I know you can do it better, so I’m not gonna show you how great you are already.’ It was a manipulation that worked in my favour later in life; by the time I was being critiqued, there was nothing you could tell me, because I know it’s not my best anyway”. I ask if growing up he had read a lot of books. “I read the dictionary,” he said. We talk about the violence he sings and raps about in good kid, m.A.A.d city, and Kendrick says, “That was our world. I remember when good kid came out, the people I grew up with couldn’t understand how we made that translate through music. They literally cried tears of joy when they listened to it – because these are people who have been shunned out of society. But I know the kinds of hearts they have; they’re great individuals. And for me to tell my story, which is their story as well, they feel that someone has compassion for us, someone does see us further than just killers or drug dealers. We were just kids.” I ask about the line that implies he shot someone at 16, and he just looks at me, smiles, and eventually says, “I’ll put it this way: I’ve seen my own blood shed, and I’ve been the cause of other people shedding their blood as well. There was a split second when I felt what my homeboys were feeling – like I don’t give a fuck anymore – and that’s when I knew something else had to happen.” Among the “something else” in his life: two baptisms, the irst at 16 and “again in my twenties – just for that reassurance and belief in God.”
Lamar on stage in New York on May 30, the same night he accepted his Pulitzer Prize at Colombia University.
aul Rosenberg, Eminem’s manager and the chairman and CEO of Def Jam Recordings, was the irst to bring Kendrick’s music to Dr Dre, who signed him to his Aftermath label in a joint deal with TDE. “Kendrick is an extremely proliic and cerebral rapper,” says Rosenberg.
P
“Every word is so well placed, so thought out, so meaningful – there’s no dead space.” And Dr Dre told me, “The thing that turned me on the most was when I watched a video of him talking about his music and the passion he had in his voice about the art. You just knew this guy was destined for greatness.” Producer Rick Rubin says, “Kendrick is one of the best of all time. He exists on another plane.” In addition to Kendrick’s extraordinary talent as a writer, rapper and producer, he has an ear for melody, and an ability to assume different voices on his songs – which he tells me he got from listening to Prince and the music he heard at his parents’ house parties. He also packs so many words and syllables into one bar of a song without ever stopping for breath. And through his music, he’s taken on the role of spokesman for a neighbourhood that goes way beyond Compton. I ask him, Why you? “I put that responsibility on myself. I knew from the jump that I thought a little bit different, people respected me, and if I let myself down, I’d be letting my guys down. Fast-forward to 2018, I’m in a position where these guys have 10, 15, 20 years in prison, but I can go in there – and I do – and tell them that when they get out, you have a job. And my word stands.” I ask him about the guns in his Piru (aka Bloods) neighbourhood in Compton, and he says, “I have compassion for, and more understanding rather than frustration with my homies, because I know it’s not 100 per cent their fault. When I look at how society has shaped our communities, it’s been generations passed down of putting people in cages to battle each other.” He talks about the survivor’s guilt that is a recurring theme in his songs, and says, “I had three or four years of success and celebrity, but I can’t get rid of the 20 years of being with my homies, and knowing what they go through. I can’t throw that away. I know a lot of people who could – I’ve seen it – like ‘Fuck you, I’ve got money now, I’m outta
“I love everything about his music. I can literally listen to his music and become a kid growing up with all the struggles in the inner city, but at the same time [learn] all the lessons it taught that we use as men today. If you listen to the last verse of ‘Black Boy Fly,’ on good kid, m.A.A.d city, I know exactly what he means – because I was that kid.” LEBRON JAMES here, I don’t give a fuck about none of y’all’. But that was something I couldn’t deal with. I had to sit back and analyse it and [igure out] other ways I could impact these people without physically trying to bring the whole hood inside a hotel.” During a solo set at the Hangout Festival in Alabama this past May, Kendrick brought a white female fan onstage to sing ‘m.A.A.d city’ with him, as he’s done at many of his concerts. White people usually know to move the mic away from their mouths when it gets to the parts with the n-word. She didn’t, and he stopped the show and called her on it. He and I discuss the ubiquitous use of that word in rap – with the a rather than er at the end of it – and the implicit understanding of who can say it and who cannot. I mention that many rappers have told me that they feel they have appropriated that word, and taken it back. S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
183
actually hurting people I’m responsible for. I’m the irst in my family to have this kind of success, so I took it upon myself to wisely navigate this success, because I wanted them to be successful, too.” I tell him that Chuck D once told me that in the ’80s, “We was broke, but we wasn’t broken,” and Kendrick says, “I love that. I felt that for sure. Because the times we had to wait for food stamps every month, or we’d run out of food and had to wait for welfare to kick in, or walk to the County building – it wasn’t about the County building; it was about the walk to the building. Because if we didn’t have that County building to walk to, I wouldn’t have built that bond with my mother, or my father, to see that this is a family. What Chuck D says resonates so much with me, because we were broke, but we had us.” I ask him if he wants to start a family and he says, “This is the constant question, because I’m obsessed with my craft and what I’m doing. I know what I’m chasing for my life, even though I don’t know what it is. But it’s an urge that’s in my every day. That urge to make an ultimate connection with words to man. And I don’t feel I’ve done that yet.” We talk about the soundtrack he curated and produced for the blockbuster ilm Black Panther, and we discuss what’s involved in an Oscar campaign, should ‘All the Stars’ – his song with SZA from that soundtrack – be nominated. (“That would be crazy,” says SZA about a possible Oscar nomination, “but that’s everything that Dot does.”) Kendrick says that the TDE Championship tour – the line-up at the Garden included Sir, Ab-Soul, Isaiah Rashad, Jay Rock, Schoolboy Q, SZA and Kendrick – has always been a dream: “To have our own tour, our own artists,” he says. “The model was Motown, Bad Boy, Roc-AFella, Def Jam, Aftermath.” Pulling up his long-sleeved T-shirt, he shows me the tattoo going all the way up his right forearm—“Hustle Like You Broke $” – which he says was something Top said: “Always have that mentality, don’t be lax”. We talk about the NFL and the national-anthem protests. He says he was a football fan, but now “I’m less enthused. It’s enraging; I think what Kap [Colin Kaepernick] is doing is honest, and it’s not just his truth, it’s our truth.” Our talk continues to cover a variety of topics. I say that even though he lives in Malibu now (and moved his family out of Compton) he’s not showy, he’s not rapping about bling (he says his father had jewellery – he’d seen it, and it didn’t interest him), and he doesn’t boast the same way a lot of rappers do (I tell him that I love that he didn’t rhyme “Grey Poupon” with “Louis Vuitton”). Still, he calls himself “the greatest rapper alive,” and, he says, “I owned up to a lot of hours of just listening and studying and throwing thousands of pieces of paper away that were garbage. Hours of Top saying, ‘Nah, that ain’t it, you’re better than that,’ or me saying, ‘Nah, that ain’t shit’.” Are there enough hours in the day for him to do everything he wants to do? “That’s one of my phrases,” he says. “We need more hours! I look up, and it’s ive in the morning, six in the morning, and I’m still in the studio. I need 26… 27… we good.”
“Kendrick Lamar’s work represents some of the most important music being produced today, period. He its squarely onstage in the artistic community, like any other cutting-edge musical genius.” DANA CANEDY, ADMINISTRATOR, THE PULITZER PRIZES But Oprah once told Jay-Z in an interview that when she hears it, even with an a at the end, she thinks of a lynching. Kendrick is thoughtful for a long minute, then he says, “Let me put it to you in its simplest form. I’ve been on this earth for 30 years, and there’s been so many things a Caucasian person said I couldn’t do. Get good credit. Buy a house in an urban city. So many things – ‘you can’t do that’ – whether it’s from afar or close up. So if I say this is my word, let me have this one word, please let me have that word.” I ask Kendrick about how he writes. “‘Execution’ is my favourite word,” he says. “I spend 80 per cent of my time thinking about how I’m going to execute, and that might be a whole year of constantly jotting down ideas, iguring out how I’m going to convey these words to a person to connect to it. What is this word that means this, how did it get here and why did it go there and how can I bring it back there? Then, the lyrics are easy.” I ask him how he delivers so many syllables and words in one line, with no wasted words and juxtapositions like “Halle Berry/Hallelujah” or a play on words like “Demo-crips and Reblood-licans” or “I got power/poison/pain and joy inside my DNA”. “It comes from my love of hip-hop. Eminem is probably one of the best wordsmiths ever,” Kendrick says. “There’s a whole list of why, but just bending words… The Marshall Mathers LP changed my life.” (Eminem returns the compliment, saying, “He switches up his low every few bars so it’s more interesting to listen to”.) Kendrick adds, “My other favourite word is ‘discipline’. Discipline gives me all my unvarnished strength and makes me curious about how disciplined I can be.” he following day, we’re backstage at Madison Square Garden prior to that night’s show. Top is here, wearing a red TDE cap. SZA, the only female on the TDE label, is determined to perform despite vocal-cord problems that forced her to cancel some tour dates. She says about Kendrick, “He’s really committed. He takes his natural aptitude and jacks that shit up to like 50,000. For you to be that naturally talented already and still want to be better is weird, inspiring and beautiful.” In a small room adjacent to Kendrick’s larger, dimly lit dressing room, he and I talk some more. I tell him it’s hard to imagine that, with his skill for such rapid-ire rapping, he stuttered as a kid, and he says he got over it by “just not being in fear of constantly talking to people – that’s what my mother told me.” He describes himself as “introverted” rather than shy, and says, “I like to be alone a lot. I need that. It’s that duality: I can go in front of a crowd of 100,000 people and express myself, then go back, be alone, and collect my thoughts all over again.” I note that after his opening set on Kanye West’s 2013 Yeezus tour, he seemed to have lipped a switch and was a different guy – way more energised and conident as a performer. “I think it was after my trip to South Africa,” he says. “It gave me a feeling of awareness and pride, a feeling of where I belong.” One of his lyrics is about how to be rich and black in America and not “act a fool,” and he says, “We’ve got to get to the root of never having these things. I look back to when I was 16 years old and thought, What would I do with a million dollars? I’m gonna buy this, I’m gonna buy that… Then I thought that me doing that is
T
“Kendrick Lamar understands and employs blues, jazz and soul in his music, which makes it startling. His work is more than merely brilliant; it is magic.” TONI MORRISON
Lamar performing at New York’s Jones Beach Theater during this year’s ‘TDE Championship’ tour with fellow label-mates.
Then, at 10:15PM, with a backdrop that says, ‘Pulitzer Kenny,’ Kendrick Lamar takes the stage at the Garden for a raging 75-minute performance. Even with all of the lights, videos, lasers and pyro, you cannot take your eyes off him as he delivers a breathtaking, joyful live set that proves he really does rap all those words without stopping for breath; a set that includes songs from his three major-label albums: good kid, m.A.A.d city, To Pimp a Butterly, and DAMN, the album that won him the Pulitzer.
MAY 30, 2018:
The Low Library, at Columbia University, in Manhattan, where the Pulitzer Prizes are handed out, isn’t very hiphop – with the exception of the table of Kendrick’s friends and colleagues. The room has a cathedral-like domed ceiling and marble columns, and the vibe is academic. (Previously, Toni Morrison had told me that the Pulitzer “ought to shape up; their canvas is not wide enough – it’s narrow. So this means it’s wider.” And Pharrell told me that “this is the universe winking at us”.) Kendrick is wearing a blue shirt with a shiny gold pattern, tan pants, and Nike Cortez Kennys. He sits at table number one with his iancée, Whitney Alford; Dave Free; Dana Canedy; her son and two of his friends; Gayle King; and CNN’s Don Lemon. Kendrick is clearly the star of the show – everyone is trying to take selies with him. After the prizes are handed out, he races out with the TDE team, avoiding reporters but stopping to take photos with kids. Then it’s back into the van for the trek to Jones Beach, on Long Island, where the Championship tour will do another show. Backstage, Kendrick works out at his mobile gym – a pull-up bar and weights (he does between 500 and 1000 push-ups a day) – and then he and I sit in a
“Rap is the biggest music out there, and it’s nice that it’s inally getting the recognition it deserves. For his album to make it onto that platform is great for all of us. Oh, and I’m also jealous.” EMINEM small room and talk about the Pulitzer Prize. “It was one of those things I heard about in school,” he says, “but I never thought I’d be a part of it. [When I heard I got it], I thought, to be recognised in an academic world... whoa, this thing really can take me above and beyond. It’s one of those things that should have happened with hip-hop a long time ago. It took a long time for people to embrace us – people outside of our community, our culture – to see this not just as vocal lyrics, but to see that this is really pain, this is really hurt, this is really true stories of our lives on wax. And now, for it to get the recognition that it deserves as a true art form, that’s not only great for myself, but it makes me feel good about hip-hop in general. Writers like Tupac, Jay-Z, Rakim, Eminem, Q-Tip, Big Daddy Kane, Snoop… It lets me know that people are actually listening further than I expected. When I looked up at that man on the podium today, I just had countless pictures in my mind of my mother putting me in suits to go to school. Suit and tie, from the dollar store, from thrift shops, when I was a kid.” Continued, p244 S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
185
The Louis Vuitton front row had everyone, including GQ’s 2017 International Sensation. Naturally. But when he’s not standing out on the red carpet, Elgort is often courtside in LA with his old high-school friend – a fellow actor by the name of Timothée Chalamet.
TIMOTHÉE CHALAMET His outfit was described as a “gas-station attendant” uniform, but the Off-White ensemble still saw Chalamet take home Best Male Lead at this year’s Spirit Awards. At just 22, he’s already a budding fashion icon, defining himself as one to watch on and off the screen.
FO L LO W I N G T H E L AT E S T C O L L E C T I O N S, WE MAP THE KEY STYLE MAKERS WHO ARE SHAPING T H E F U T U R E O F FAS H I O N – F R O M AC TO R S A N D A R T I S T S, TO R A P P E R S, M O D E L S A N D D E S I G N E R S – TO S E E H O W T H E Y ’ R E C O N N E C T E D, A N D W H Y T H I S I S T H E M O S T E XC I T I N G M O M E N T FO R M E N S W E A R . WO R DS JAKE M I LL AR
Best known as part of hip-hop collective The Internet, Lacy has modelled for streetwear brands before, but Abloh’s debut saw him hit the catwalk for the first time, alongside fellow musos Kid Cudi and Playboi Carti.
D R WO O Tattoo artist to the stars, Dr Woo has inked the stylish likes of Virgil Abloh, but his background in fashion goes beyond those who’ve visited his former LA base, Shamrock Social Club. Woo started out as a fashion buyer and this season, lent a series of his trademark circular designs to Japanese brand Sacai.
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES, INSTAGRAM.
ANSEL ELGORT
the new fashion world order
STEVE L AC Y
Alt
on
so Ma
n>
R af S im o n
KID CUDI He’s worked with everyone from Jay-Z to David Guetta, appeared on screen in films and TV shows, and collaborated with brands including Giuseppe Zanotti, BAPE and Coach. So little surprise this season saw him join the ranks of Abloh’s A-list cast of models at Louis Vuitton.
s>
DEV HYNES Best known by stage name Blood Orange, Hynes has worked with everyone from Kylie Minogue to A$AP Rocky. Raf Simons featured him in last year’s Calvin Klein campaign. Add Abloh to that list, who recruited him for the SS19 catwalk.
A$ A P
Rocky
>
PL AY B O I CARTI The 21-year-old rapper arrived at the Louis Vuitton show venue, the chic Jardin du Palais, in an all-black Rolls-Royce ‘Phantom’. As you do. So it was only fitting that the former Yeezy and Off-White model should be the final look, to close out one of the most hyped collections of the season.
HERON PR ESTON Originally one of the designers behind celeb-fave brand Been Trill, Preston has previously worked with Kanye West, before launching his own namesake label. Bella Hadid is a big fan, and today his range is available in Aussie store Harrolds.
V IRGIL ABLOH Designer, DJ, founder of Off-White. When the 38-year-old was announced as the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear, it quickly transformed the brand’s Paris runway show into one of the season’s most anticipated events. Luckily, Abloh delivered. It featured a cast of models from around the world – including Playboi Carti and Steve Lacy – and culminated in a teary embrace with Abloh’s long-time mentor, friend and collaborator, Kanye West.
SAMUEL ROSS After cutting his teeth at Off-White, Hood By Air and Been Trill, Ross launched A Cold Wall, in 2015. Today, the British designer is worn by the likes of Virgil Abloh and Jaden Smith, and is now sold everywhere from Barneys in New York to Harrolds, Down Under.
thew Mat
liam Wil
s>
CHRISTINE CENTENERA LUK A SA BBAT At just 20, model, photographer, actor and street-style star Sabbat’s presence has quickly become a litmus test for what’s cool in the fashion world. Simply put: if he’s on the front row of your fashion show, congratulations. You passed.
Fashion Director (and icon) at Vogue Australia, Centenera was also responsible for styling the Louis Vuitton show, having previously lent her talents to Kanye West’s Yeezy label.
KA WS KANYE WEST Easily one of the highlights of this season’s shows, not only did West make a rare appearance in the front row of Virgil Abloh’s debut, but the two shared an emotional hug as the hip-hop artist’s long-time collaborator and previous creative director took his final bow.
>
Yoon Ahn >
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
1 87
<D
ev H yne
> cean O k n Fra
s
< Play boy C a
r ti
< Virgil Abloh e ro H <
n
n s to e r P
ROBERT PA T T I N S O N
A$AP ROCKY It would hardly be fashion week without A$AP Rocky, who’s been keeping street-style snappers busy for countless seasons. This time, he was there at both Louis Vuitton and Dior Men, which also tapped him for last season’s campaign; with Calvin Klein featuring A$AP Mob in their latest.
S I LV I A FENDI Another member of the (ever growing) LVMH family, Silvia Fendi was front row to support Kim Jones’ Dior Men runway debut. And it figures, since the company recently shuffled Dior Men exec Serge Brunschwig into the new role of Fendi CEO.
Long-time Dior Men poster child Pattinson was there as Kim Jones presented his first collection. These days, he’s practically part of the LVMH family, seated on the front row next to a certain Karl Lagerfeld.
KRIS VA N A S S C H E ALEXANDRE A R NAU LT
Last season’s designer musical chairs saw Van Assche end his decade-long tenure at Dior Men to join emerging fashion force Berluti. Still, clearly no hard feelings. He was there to applaud as Jones took his (much deserved) victory lap.
The baby-faced son of LVMH’s top dog has become a front-row fixture in recent seasons. His latest venture? As CEO of Rimowa, he’s been tasked with making luggage cool again, which he’s achieved thanks to collabs with Supreme and Off-White.
< Heron
m < Sa
< Vi
rgil A
uel
M ATTHEW WILLIAMSON
Preston
Part of the Been Trill collective with Virgil Abloh, Williams has managed to fly under the radar – though not without his own unisex label, Alyx, building a cult following. Still, his cover was well and truly blown when Jones tapped him to create the chunky buckles seen on the Dior Men runway.
Ross
bloh
KIM JONES For proof of this Jones’ blockbuster fashion credentials, look no further than the number of fellow designers in his front row: Karl Lagerfeld, Kris Van Assche, Virgil Abloh – they were all there. With jewellery by Kanye favourite Yoon Ahn, hardware by Matthew Williams, and a giant centrepiece by KAWS on his Dior Men runway, the show embodied today’s fashion mindset: collaboration is key.
YO O N A H N TAK ASHI MURAKAMI After a long-term collaboration with Louis Vuitton on a series of bags, it’s little surprise Murakami was at Virgil Abloh’s debut. And in June, the pair also launched a joint exhibition at the Gagosian gallery in Paris. Though the colourful Japanese artist also found time to hit Dior Men.
< Ka
nye W e
st
K AW S You might not have heard of this Brooklynbased artist, but if you watched the Dior Men show, you’ve seen his work. The 10m-tall cartoonish figure at the centre of the circular runway – covered in roses and peonies – was his. He’s also responsible for the cover art on Kanye West’s 2008 album, 808s & Heartbreak.
Having created pieces for the likes of Kanye West and Rihanna, in April, Ahn – of fashion brand Ambush – joined the Dior Men team. The first clue of what she’ll bring to the brand? The throwback CD-logo stud earrings the models wore on the catwalk.
B RO O K LY N BECKHAM
D AV I D BECKHAM A long-time fan of Jones’ work at LV, Becks actually gave the world its first glimpse of what to expect on the Paris runway, when he wore Dior Men to the Royal wedding back in May. And while he didn’t make it to the Paris show, the rest of the Beckham contingent was still there in full force.
Is it still called nepotism if you don’t actually have a job? In any case, the sometimes photographer (he shot for Burberry a couple of years back) and full-time son of Posh and Becks is establishing himself as a regular fashion fixture.
SebastiAn >
< A$ A P R
FRANK OCEAN
ocky
<D
ev
Hy ne
“I get Raf Simons, ’cause I’m gifted,” Ocean raps in A$AP Mob hit ‘Raf’. Hardly the reclusive style icon’s only tie to the fashion world – French artist SebastiAn (who provided the soundtrack for Saint Laurent’s show) worked on 2016 album Blonde.
s
Tra vis S
cott >
D A V I D C A S A VA N T Starting at just 14, NYC-based collector and stylist Casavant now has the world’s largest archive of vintage Raf Simons and Helmut Lang. Impressive. And today, he loans pieces to the likes of Kanye West, Travis Scott and Rihanna.
THE XX Former Dior Men campaign star and XX frontman Oliver Sim was there at the latest collection. But it’s hardly the band’s first fashion connection. Belgian designer Raf Simons directed the video for their single ‘I Dare You’, last year.
Olivier R RAF SIMONS PR ESLEY GERBER Alongside sister Kaia, Gerber starred in Calvin Klein’s #MyCalvins campaign earlier this year and looks set to continue the Cindy Crawford clan’s fashion dominance.
PR INCE N I KO L A I Royal fever didn’t end with the Harry-Meghan nuptials, Danish prince Nikolai opened the show at Dior Men, having previously made his runway debut for Burberry, back in February. Yes, a royal model. Some people really do get all the good genes.
izzo and W
illy Vande
rperre >
Trav i s Sc ott >
Few brands have built such a cult following the way this Belgian designer’s namesake label has. His shows are packed with everyone from Jake Gyllenhaal to A$AP Rocky – and proof of his commercial capabilities, he’s also been tapped by mega-brand Calvin Klein as its current chief creative officer.
STER LING RUBY A longtime Simons collaborator, the American artist has worked on the interior of the designer’s stores, a denim collaboration – whose campaign starred Travis Scott – and fabrics for Simons’ debut haute couture collection at Dior Men. Most recently, he redesigned Calvin Klein’s New York showroom.
GOSHA RUBCH INSK I Y The Russian designer has become a cult favourite for the new wave of ‘Post-Soviet’ fashion (it’s a thing), joining the ranks of Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia. While his own label is on hiatus, this season he continued his successful collaboration with Burberry.
CRAIG GREEN
X AV I E R DOLAN The French Canadian director and actor was tapped by Kim Jones as the face of Louis Vuitton in 2016, and he was there this year to lend his support at Dior Men. Next, he’s set to appear alongside Joe Alwyn and Aussie Troye Sivan in big-screen film, Boy Erased.
RICCARDO TISCI After Christopher Bailey stepped down from Burberry last October, the question was, who will replace him? The answer was the man whose 12-year tenure at Givenchy brought the label record profits. As for what he’ll deliver for the British label, you’ll have to wait until October’s London show. What we do know is that it features a collab with Vivienne Westwood.
The British designer was the guest designer for this season’s Pitti Uomo show. He’s also won fans in Comme des Garçons’ CEO, Adrian Joffe – who also helped launch Gosha Rubchinskiy – as well as Rihanna, who regularly wears his designs on stage.
R IH ANNA Never afraid to take a fashion risk, she’s known for pushing the boundaries with her style – whether it’s head-to-toe Burberry, or championing emerging designers like Brit Craig Green on stage.
Lennon Gallagher > Nick Robinson >
Joe Alwyn >
an < Frank Oce
ALGEE SMITH Another emerging face to be featured in Prada’s new-season campaign, the Detroit actor was there front row for the brand’s SS19 show, alongside fellow Prada face Nick Robinson.
T R AV I S SCOTT
<D
The rapper modelled the first denim collab between Raf Simons and artist Sterling Ruby, and is regularly snapped in Simons’ designs. Last year, he also teamed up with Aussie denim brand Ksubi for his own capsule collection.
SEBASTI AN MIUCCIA PR A DA Her namesake brand might be 105 this year, but that hasn’t stopped it being one if this season’s coolest labels. Few labels match the sheer breadth of its appeal – whether it’s a campaign featuring rising stars Nick Robinson, Joe Alwyn and Algee Smith, or a fan base that includes GQ fave Jeff Goldblum.
avi dC asa van t
Ru ling r e t <S
< Ra
f Sim
It takes a lot of people to put on a runway show. The designers and the models, of course, but with photos of every show now available on phones, it’d be easy to forget the atmosphere that is created. Having previously worked with Frank Ocean, French producer SebastiAn was also responsible for the soundtrack to Saint Laurent’s New York men’s show.
by
on s
JEFF GOLDBLUM
OLIVIER RIZZO A N D W I L LY VA N D E R P E R R E
Longtime Prada fan, Goldblum showed no fear even when embracing the latest round of super-bold shirts from the Italian label. He’s not a regular dad, he’s a cool dad. And he knows it.
The Belgian stylist/ photographer duo is one of the most in-demand fashion forces, regularly working with Raf Simons (the current Calvin Klein campaign), and shooting the latest Prada campaign.
ANTHONY VA C C A R E L L O JOE A LW Y N
<
r vie a X
D
n ola
NICK ROBINSON Star of ground-breaking LGBTQI film Love, Simon, his performance won praise from the likes of director Xavier Dolan, and he later joined Joe Alwyn and Algee Smith in the latest campaign for Prada.
cardo < R ic
Tisci
The actor is set to join Margot Robbie in Mary Queen of Scots. But his most prominent role might well boyfriend to an emerging singer known as Taylor Swift. He also happens to be face of Prada’s latest campaign.
After stints at Fendi and Versus Versace, in mid-2016 it was announced he’d be replacing Hedi Slimane at the helm of Saint Laurent. So far, he’s delivered big things. His menswear debut took place in New York (not Paris), with the likes of Lennon Gallagher hitting the catwalk in skinny jeans, boots and blazers.
LENNON G A L L AG H E R Son of Oasis rocker Liam, the younger Gallagher has opted for the runway over the stage. Making his debut at Topman and then Burberry last year, he walked for Saint Laurent most recently, and also starred as the face of their new menswear campaign.
B E YO NC É There’s a reason she shut down the whole Louvre to record her latest video with husband Jay-Z. Few artists can sell a look quite like Beyoncé; French designer Jacquemus practically owes her his career.
<D
ev
SIMON PORTE JAC QU E M U S DONALD G L OV E R
His women’s line became a fashion staple, after Beyoncé revealed herself to be a fan. This season, the French boy wonder and LVMH Prize winner released his first menswear collection in Marseille (where else?), which was available online just weeks after it hit the runway.
He might just be the most stylish man in the world. But it was his head-to-toe Gucci look at this year’s Met Gala outfit that really cemented his place as one of the most exciting fashion icons in Hollywood.
Hy nes
ALTON MASON
D I D DY Rapper, mogul, fashion icon. “Been a whole day now I wanna lay ‘round,” raps Diddy on ‘I Need a Girl (pt.2)’, “And sip coladas, dipped in Prada”. Speaking of, he reportedly turned down a role in blockbuster The Devil Wears Prada, to avoid upsetting Anna Wintour.
Easily one of the coolest models of the moment, the former dancer for the likes of Diddy has walked for Gucci and just about everyone else. Expect him to be everywhere, very soon.
H AR RY STYLES It was probably only a matter of time before he and Michele made things official. Styles has made no secret of his love for a Gucci suit, but last season he was also announced as the brand’s latest campaign face.
T ROY E S I VA N
HEDI SLIMANE After leaving Saint Laurent in 2016, Slimane’s next project is introducing menswear at Celine. He’s also a big Troye Sivan fan, tapping him to walk the runway for Saint Laurent in 2015.
ALE SSANDRO MICHELE
Having struck up a close relationship with former creative director Hedi Slimane – you might have spotted the Saint Laurent boots in his video for single ‘My My My!’ – Sivan is now the face of Valentino’s men’s campaign.
The Italian designer started his career at Fendi, before being tapped by Tom Ford to join Gucci back in 2002. He’s toiled away patiently behind the scenes ever since, finally being given the chance to head the label in 2015 and has since spun it into one of the world’s hottest – and most profitable – brands.
DA PPE R DA N The Harlem tailor made a name for himself back in the 80s. But it was Alessandro Michele who brought him to renewed prominence, releasing a limited collection with the designer that quickly become one of this season’s most coveted collabs.
JA R E D LETO
EARL C AV E Son of rocker Nick Cave and star of upcoming film The True History of the Kelly Gang, Earl is following in the footsteps of his fashion icon father – not least of all in this daring pink Gucci ensemble at the brand’s resort 2019 Milan show.
Long-time friend of Michele, Leto makes no secret of his love of pushing boundaries. For proof, look no further than his sufficiently bonkers Met Gala outfit, where he turned up looking like the Gucci-clad style messiah, alongside Michele and Lana Del Rey. He was also there for the launch of the brand’s new collaboration with Dapper Dan.
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
191
W E P R E S E NT TH E M O ST DAN G E R O U S LY STYLI S H C O LLE CTI O N S O F F W1 8 .
PH OTOG RAPHY J ESSE LI ZOT TE ST YLI N G O LIVIA HAR DI NG
Jacket, $1800, and pants, $1040, both by Prada.
WORDS DAVI D SM I E DT ILLUSTRATION AN DR EW ARC H E R
WE’VE HEARD IT OVER AND OVER AGAIN: DRUGS ARE BAD. BUT A GROUP OF MEDICAL RESEARCHERS ARE CHALLENGING THE STIGMA AROUND MINDALTERING SUBSTANCES – AND DISCOVERING THEY COULD HOLD THE KEY TO TACKLING A WHOLE RANGE OF MENTAL HEALTH ISSUES.
“WITHIN THE NEXT 10 YEARS, WE WILL SEE PSYCHEDELICS ENTER PSYCHIATRY.” S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
207
“IF I HADN’T STARTED KETAMINE TREATMENTS, I DON’T KNOW WHETHER I’D BE HERE.”
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
209
the after party T H I S S P R I N G , M E N ’ S LU X U RY FAS H I O N HOUSES DELIVER TEXTURED ELEGANCE IN A T H R O W B AC K TO ‘ 9 0 S R AV E C U LT U R E . S H I R T U N D O N E , O P T I O N A L - B U T E N C O U R AG E D. PH OTOG RAPHY B U Z Z W H ITE ST YLI N G O LIVIA HAR DI NG
Grey coat, approx. $2530, brown pants, approx. $970, and brown shoes, approx. $1400, all by Dries Van Noten; necklace, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own, worn throughout.
OPPOSITE
Jacket, $4300, and shirt, $1500, both by Dior Men. THIS PAGE
Jacket, approx. $10,070, turtleneck, approx. $2285, pants, approx. $5295, and boots approx. $3525, all by Tom Ford
THE BIGGEST CRISIS GRIPPING THE AFL IS NOT DRINK OR DRUGS ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GAMBLING. INSIDERS REVEAL HOW THE SPORT GOT HOOKED AND WHAT IT WILL TAKE TO SAVE IT.
WO R DS R IC HAR D C LU N E
THIS PAGE
Former AFL star David Schwarz now helps players in their fight with problemgambling; playing for the Melbourne Demons; speaking to the Herald Sun in 2005.
avid Schwarz’s phone will start to light up at the back end of next month. He’s expecting it because it’s a pattern that’s for years now rung true. Because it’s the end of another brutal and protracted AFL season, signaling the start of spring racing as it gallops towards another Melbourne Cup. His phone will chirp with numbers mostly unfamiliar. On the other end – men. Men who know the shake that follows the roar of 90,000 calls of ‘BALL’ at the MCG on a fresh July afternoon. Men, young men at that, who’ve only just come to feel the blistering pace and the piercing pain of a full preseason training schedule. Desperation strains their voices and threads their stories. It’s despair that’s led them here – to this point, to call a man they refer to as The Ox. It’s a moniker that highlights the size of the champion number 5 for the Melbourne Football Club – a 6’3” 100kg bullock who split packs and never shirked; a forward whose surprising agility also saw him regularly dance around opposition backmen en route to goal. “They’re pretty desperate and they’re lost, that’s where they’re at,” Schwarz offers of those who call. “They’ve hit a wall, they’ve inally worked out that they’re pretty stuffed and they’re desperate enough to reach out.” They seek out Schwarz because he’s someone who knows their stories. Because it’s also been his story – the tale of how crippling gambling addiction saw one of the sport’s all-time greats
walk away in 2002 penniless and shadowed by a seven–igure debt. It is the story of a man who estimates to have lost more than $5m over the course of his 12-year career. “I know what it’s like to have no money, to be desperate… I know what it’s like to feel that anguish. It’s probably the worst feeling in the world.” Schwarz admits that when his phone rings he can no longer offer the same level of support he once did, a time when he’d drop what he was doing and hop on lights all over the country to sit and speak and personally console a player. All at his own cost. It came to a head a couple of years back – it was all too consuming. Today, he still listens before steering players to those he knows can help. “I was getting ive players or managers a month ringing me directly to say, ‘I’m stuffed, I can’t get out, I need help’. It got to a point where I just couldn’t do it anymore, you know. I was doing it before and in between and after everything else I had going on and it was just getting to me… Now I say it’s not that I can’t help, but here’s someone I know who you can trust and who you’re better off seeing right now.” Speak to Schwarz and you hear a man who genuinely wishes he could do more – a desire to aid anyone battling the same demons he hasn’t allowed get the better of him since 2005. As he sees it, more should be done. More needs to be done. As Schwarz sees it, the AFL has a major gambling problem. “Are more players in serious trouble through gambling than drugs and alcohol? Yep, I’d say there are three or four times more problem-gamblers than those with issues with the other two. And I’d say that of the 800 or whatever players you’ve got in the AFL,
20 to 30 per cent have a gambling problem. This is a fucking big issue.” ••• Jan Beames has sport in her blood. Her uncle was the lamboyant and legendary Australian all-rounder Keith Miller. Her father-in-law, Percy Beames, was also a known Demons charge who went on to become The Age’s chief football and cricket journalist. She was recommended to us for this story by several working in and around the AFL, including one player-manager who simply labeled her “the best in the business”. As a professional counselor of 30 years’ experience, Beames has worked across a wealth of issues with innumerable sports people – from Olympic swimmers, to runners, rowers and rugby union players. Her ofice has also seen a revolving door of AFL players – all directed by word of mouth or the gentle push of another who knows of her work. Schwarz credits his recovery to Beames – and it is known that she also helped drag former Hawthorn premiership player Brent Guerra out of the pit of a gambling addiction that saw him lose his way and an estimated $400,000 in just four years. An addiction to gambling, Beames offers, involves reaching a point where placing a bet and walking away is no longer possible. “It’s when they’re completely consumed, when they can’t stop thinking about it and they go to increasing lengths to do it. And once they start, they really cannot stop.” She speaks of players who’ve openly bet up to an hour before running out on the ield. She speaks of players not sleeping entire weekends due to a habit. Of those who’ve lost homes and families to what is a wretched addiction.
THIS PAGE
Brett Guerra celebrates Hawthorne’s title win in 2013; Giants co-captain Phil Davis has spoken of how the club has avoided a gambling culture.
Beames also doesn’t shy away from presenting problem-gambling as a major issue for the AFL – one on an ascendant arc. “I’m seeing more with gambling problems today than I have before, yes. And most of those players have lost six igures.” She’s seeing a few at the moment. From those who’ve only just slipped on an AFL guernsey to those already well known to the public. She’s hesitant to say too much and that’s understandable. “There’s one guy and he’s a star. He’s played every game this season. And he’s smart too – he didn’t study at school and he got amazing grades. He’s one of those freaks. And I kept thinking about why he was here, you know, because I see so many players and I was just interested in why is this guy was here, because he really is such a thinker. He’s smart.” His response was simple. “‘Well Jan, I get 25 grand in my bank every month, I’ve got a lot of time on my hands and I get bored.’ And then he said that at the club everyone’s always on their phones and they’re always talking about bets and tips and races and it’s just all the time, that’s what he said, ‘It’s all the time’.” Like the others Beames sees, he began to lose more than he was making. He was chasing wins trying to cover growing debts. Never chase debt. That’s the slope. That’s when it hits. That’s when a player lands in the hole. Guerra’s story is one that highlights how quickly recreational gambling can come to own a player. How control morphs into searing loss. How a betting culture can act as a dangerous leader. Guerra, now on the coaching staff at Fremantle FC, didn’t return a request to be interviewed for this article. We were told he’s said his piece – and he has.
“Early on in my AFL career I’d go to the pub on the weekend with my mates for a couple of beers and we’d all put $20 or $50 in for a few bets together. It was a good way to catch up, and my betting was under control,” Guerra detailed in a 2015 article about his addiction. “When I started playing for Hawthorn, there were guys who owned horses and guys who liked to bet, and I got sucked into that culture. I went to the races a lot after the footy season inished and started to bet more frequently.” Things changed in 2011. “In a single moment it really got a hold. I put a bet on and ended up winning $30,000. At the time I thought it was the greatest thing, but in the long run it ended up being the worst thing that has ever happened to me.”
Punting on the horses, the dogs, the trots – Guerra quickly went on to lose. His daily habit would eat his monthly salary and he was borrowing against his home loan to chase another win. At the time of going to print on this story, former AFL player turned media personality Ryan Fitzgerald opened up about his issues with gambling – which stemmed from his time at the Sydney Swans. “Those four years that I had in the AFL, I punted a lot of my money up the wall,” Fitzgerald said in July. “It was the environment. Back in those days, there was a lot of down time between training sessions and in the Swans, (the) majority of blokes would go down the pub and just have a punt… For me, it was you get to hang out with some of these senior blokes going, ‘This is amazing’.” Fitzgerald detailed how gambling left him with debts that meant he could no longer afford his mortgage. It’s a story all too familiar to Beames. “I’ve had some young players drafted away from home when they’re very young and dealing with loneliness, missing home, not feeling like they belong so they start betting to become part of the team – there’s often a sense of peer pressure to gamble because it’s part of a team culture” she says. “Some of the young players, when they join these clubs, they see players on their phones all the time, watching races and talking about punting all the time. And so these younger guys get involved, that’s how it starts, but then they can’t stop.” GQ approached 16 current players for this story. Six across four clubs agreed to speak – though all requested anonymity, not wanting to be known to betray team ranks. S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
225
FROM FAR LEFT
Hawthorn president Jeff Kennett; Brendan Fevola and Peter Everitt during their playing days; Ryan Fitzgerald discussing his battle with gambling addiction at the SCG; AFL CEO Gillon McLachlan.
the issue, the amount of free time players have, the ease of gambling online and increasing player salaries are all explored. “There are guys who don’t punt at all, but then there are those who really get into and go too hard.” D’Orazio cites former players such as Brendan Fevola, Daryn Cresswell, Simon Goodwin and Daniel Ward, among others. Like Schwarz and Guerra – each was a standout of the game and each came to scrape rock bottom as a result of gambling addiction. Fevola declined to participate in this article though he has previously recalled how, at the height of his gambling, he lost more than $360,000 in a single weekend on Hong Kong horse races he “knew nothing about”. “It’s an addictive thing, it’s a really bad addiction to have and it obviously cripples a lot of people’s lives,” Fevola said. The former Carlton full-forward declared bankruptcy in 2013. “It gets pretty sad,” says D’Orazio. “I mean it affects the player and there are some horror stories out there, but it also ends up affecting all those around him too.” Asked directly how many of his 100 had a problem with gambling, D’Orazio claimed 20. “As I said, I deal with it on a daily basis.” One respected Melbourne premiership coach uses a well-worn descriptor about the issues he believes all AFL players will at some stage face. He calls it, rather unpoetically, the ‘Four Ps’ – pussy, powder, piss, punting. D’Orazio maintains the latter to be the most harmful and prevalent. “Drugs and drinking aren’t really options as they want to look after themselves and be proud of their performance. It’s gambling, that’s the
one and it’s why we’ve started to manage a lot of their money so we know what they’re doing. So we’re onto it – but it’s not going away.” It’s also not being spoken about – not openly, anyway. Where the AFL can be applauded in regards to their work on tackling racism and female inclusivity, it’s keeping schtum about what is widely considered to be the biggest issue amongst its own playing group. At the time of print, AFL conversation was centered on congestion in the game, enforced ruck nominations and pending rule changes to be enacted in time for the 2019 season. The AFL failed to move on numerous requests to interview CEO Gillon McLachlan or any of the code’s executives for this article. “I don’t think they have ever taken this seriously,” states Schwarz. “This is a serious issue and they’ve only got a fucking Band-Aid over it. If that.” Former Victorian premier and Hawthorn President Jeff Kennett agrees. “Your irst responsibility in terms of governance in running a club or a code or a commercial operation is good governance and the welfare of your employees,” he says. “And the clubs and the AFL should really be more concerned and more interested in educating players about the pitfalls of gambling. Because there is no doubt that there are more people gambling within the playing groups.” Kennett believes the AFL should be shining the spotlight on its own ranks instead of its current crusade to move more clubs away from a reliance on poker-machine revenues. For Hawthorne the 2016/17 season brought in $23.29m from their club machines. “The AFL, having taken on a social conscience on all matters, articulates a position on gaming machines and worries
about those in the community who unfortunately gamble beyond their means,” says Kennett. “But they are not nearly as proactive in worrying about gambling within the ranks of those they give the opportunity to play the game.” Last year, Samantha Thomas, an associate professor of public health at Deakin University and who was employed by the AFLPA to run a pilot education program on problem gambling within clubs, publicly criticised the AFL for its ongoing inancial entanglement with sports betting agencies. In 2016 the AFL signed a lucrative ive-year deal with CrownBet for $50m. Many see this as a crux when it comes to the AFL being more vocal in publicly addressing the issue of gambling addiction and being more proactive in the prevention of its alleged march across the playing group. “Yeah, this is the disease no one wants to talk about,” says Mark Robinson, The Herald Sun’s chief football writer. “And it’s interesting isn’t it that the AFL players have gambling addictions and the AFL then throws up nine games on TV every weekend with gambling ads everywhere.” Robsinson labels such advertising brainwashing. “It’s propaganda that’s its OK to bet. And if the government or the AFL had any balls they’d stop that, but the money is too great to give up. You know, the entire world we live in is corrupt in some way, the entire world is hypocritical in some way. Though, the AFL accepting gambling revenue is probably no different to the media accepting gambling sponsorship. “The whole world has been touched by gambling and it is a revenue source for so many.” Continued on p244 S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
227
ADD PRINCE OF WALES CHECKS, BANANAS AND BRICKWORK INTO YOUR SPRING LOOK, THANKS TO FENDIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ONGOING LOVE OF KEEPING THINGS PLAYFUL .
The
P H OTO G R A P H Y TI M ASHTO N S T Y L I N G O LIVIA HAR DI NG
wor d
OPPOSITE
Knit, $1100, pants, $990, and bag, $1690, all by Fendi. THIS PAGE
Jacket, $2790, by Fendi.
THIS PAGE
Knit, $890, by Fendi. OPPOSITE
Top, $1100, and pants, $1190, both by Fendi. Grooming Madison Voloshin at Vivienâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Creative using R+Co Hair and MAC. Talent Michael Morgan at The MGMT.
NOW FITS IN YOUR POCKET INTRODUCING THE NEW GQ PHONE APP
DOWNLOAD OUR NEW APP TODAY!
SUBSCRIBE NOW
*
TO SUBSCRIBE, VISIT MAGSONLINE.COM.AU/DIGITAL-GQ OR CALL 1300 656 933
DOWNLOAD NOW ON THE APP STORE
FIT
G E T M O T I VA T E D A N D K E E P I N S H A P E W I T H E X C L U S I V E F I T N E S S V I D E O S O N G Q . C O M . A U
E D I T E D BY C H R I S T O P H E R R I L E Y
Boutique your fitness I T M AY S O U N D R I D I C U LO U S B U T S P E N D I N G C LO S E TO $ 4 0 A S E S S I O N J U S T B E CA M E M O R E C O S T- E F F E C T I V E T H A N A M O N T H ’ S M E M B E R S H I P FO R T H E S A M E P R I C E .
W
hen it comes to itness, B is for Boutique. And double B? Introducing Barry’s Bootcamp. While anywhere encouraging sweating, grunting and self-satisied high-ives is hardly what we’d call boutique, the world of itness is a rapidly changing one. What was once about breaking a sweat is now better described as a lifestyle, with gyms evolving into luxury consumer experiences that come with the added beneit of getting you in shape. In other words, gyms that do a great job of hiding the fact they’re gyms.
It was in the early ’00s when this idea really took off. In America the likes of CrossFit, SoulCycle and Orangetheory arrived, all claiming to offer a personalised itness experience within premium facilities. And the OG in the game? Barry’s Bootcamp, having been grafting boutique bodies since ’98. But, do away with your preconceptions of ‘bootcamps’ immediately. This isn’t your early-Saturday-morning-down-the-local-park affair. With cool merch, luxe facilities and highly trained coaches, Barry’s and other boutique gym experiences are convincing us that itness can also mean luxury. As Barry’s prepares to open its irst Australian location, the era of cheap and cheerful itness may well be over. And we’re here to tell you, that’s a good thing. The irst lesson to learn about boutique itness: it’s not always about the itness. According to itness historian Natalia Petrzela, boutique gyms like Barry’s sit in the “realm of conspicuous consumption that our culture still accepts and even celebrates”. Just like designer labels, we now wear our gyms with pride. So,
where you ind boutique gyms you’ll ind an awful lot of amenities and branded merchandise, enabling members to broadcast their chosen gym even – or perhaps especially – when not exercising. And this isn’t conined to just clothing. While Barry’s has partnered with Nike and Lululemon to create bespoke athleisure wear you’d actually want to own, it’s in the iner details they impress most. After leaving each Barry’s class, all sweaty and euphoric with those lovely post-exercise endorphins, you’re handed a nutritious protein-rich smoothie from their Fuel Bar. Forgetting the fact you may have just dropped close to $40 for the session – the smoothie feels like a freebie, helping to build the idea of a personalised experience. Barry’s CEO, Joey Gonzalez, explains how elements like this were crucial in building the brand into the boutique behemoth it is today. “That was when the new Barry’s 2.0 was born.” OK, so we may be looking and feeling great when not working out – what about during the sweat-fest? For this, Barry’s has created its studio concept, the ‘Red Room’. Subdued
HESTON RUSSELL AND BLAKE BRIDGES, WORKING WITH THE QUADRANT PE-BACKED FITNESS AND LIFESTYLE GROUP (FLG), LEAD THE LAUNCH OF BARRY’S BOOTCAMP IN AUSTRALIA.
Head of curriculum, Blake Bridges, puts a class through their paces in the original Barry’s studio in West Hollywood.
THE WORKOUT Here’s the thing. If the workout itself is lacking, no amount of Oribe amenities or Lululemon gear will make up for it. And Gonzalez knows it. “At the heart of it, Barry’s became successful because it works so well,” he says. So, what’s the secret formula? Turns out, it’s quite simple, with the workout itself followimg largely the same structure it has since its ’98 inception. It hasn’t changed because, as Gonzaelez says, it works so well. Very few Barry’s classes will be the same – they’re created by the individual trainer bespoke for that session – but they all follow the same structure: 50 minutes of high-intensity exercise split evenly between running (on superexpensive Woodway treadmills, of course) and strength work. Switching between the two is designed to shock your body, boosting your metabolism and providing balance between strength and cardio. The days of the week are split up by body part, so on Monday all classes involve arms and abs, Tuesday is leg day, Wednesday chest and back and so on. This promotes muscle growth (read: getting super jacked) while the treadmill work will help keep you lean. However, the best thing may be the trainer leading the session. Or, to use the Barry’s word, ‘enter-trainer’. Part entertainer, part trainer it’s a delicate balancing act coaching both the runners and those doing strength, at the same time. Most impressive, though, is the fact they manage to pull it off without looking and sounding like a complete dick.
LA TRAINER BARRY JAY GREW TIRED OF HAVING TO SUPPLEMENT HIS AEROBICS CLASSES WITH SEPARATE WEIGHT TRAINING: “I THOUGHT WHY NOT HAVE REAL SIZEABLE WEIGHTS AND BRING THEM TO A CLASS ATMOSPHERE?” PICTURED ABOVE WITH HESTON RUSSELL (L), BARRY’S AUSTRALIA HEAD OF OPERATIONS, AND BLAKE BRIDGES (R), BARRY’S AUSTRALIA HEAD OF CURRICULUM .
EXPERIENCE You are no longer just having a workout. Like at a hotel, it comes with all the bells and whistles of a personalised service – concierge, amenities and customer service that is, for once, actually quite good. STUDIO Because ‘gym’ will no longer suffice. Not luxe enough, you see.
THE LINGO With your fitness upgrade comes a new way of communicating. Get to know the cool kid’s gym speak so you don’t look a fool on your first session.
pleasing”. Beyond that, it’s all sleek and minimalist, a design straight out of the millennial playbook. Because, who wants a gym selie with unlattering lighting and an ugly interior? Exactly – no one. This isn’t the only way boutique gyms are distancing themselves from the mainstream ones of old. Rather than operating on a transactional basis, they aim to foster a community feeling – blurring the line between traditional gym and member’s club. All about going the extra mile, Barry’s wants to embed itself within the community, celebrating festive dates and interacting with locals. And, having opened 42 locations worldwide since it irst started over 20 years ago – with not a single one closing – clearly it’s doing something right. Barry’s Bootcamp will open in Surry Hills on September 8, Martin Place on October 6 and both Potts Point and Melbourne in early 2019; barrysbootcamp.com
TRAIN Remember when we used to ‘work out’, or just ‘go to the gym’? Now we ‘train’. What for? Who knows, but it sounds better. GAINZ OK, not strictly speaking a boutique fitness term but such a popular part of the modern gym lexicon that it bears explaining. Referring to your muscle growth, it’s a term best avoided unless your name’s Matty and you have barbed wire un-ironically tattooed on your upper arm.
THE COMPETITION THREE FRANCHISES BARRY’S IS OUT TO BEAT. CROSSFIT Some love it while others say it plays fast and loose with some highly technical movements that are just a bit dangerous. Great branding, though. crossfit.com F45 The most popular homegrown boutique brand, it has around 500 studio locations in Australia, alone. The workout involves 45 minutes (obvs) of HIIT circuit work. Expect
decent results, but can be repetitive – and light on the amenities. F45training.com CREW Try this if you’ve been around the traps a while and want to be challenged. Rowing is a low-key difficult movement but if done right can be highly effective. Different classes are offered but largely they mix rowing (again, obvs) with bodyweight interval work. The advancedathlete option. crewrow.com.au
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
237
THREE MORE APPS SHAKING UP THE FITNESS WORLD
28 APP Anything Bachelorrelated we tend to treat with caution. We’ll call this the exception. Created by former star of the show Sam Wood, 28 App is an online training program that provides daily workouts for a month. Each session is 28 minutes and the program lasts for – yup, you guessed it – 28 days.
Upgrade your surf quiver A N E W WAY TO R E N T S U R F B OA R D S I S H E R E A N D I T’ S A G A M E C H A N G E R .
S
uring with a rental board is never ideal. The promise is there, but somehow it’s just not the same when the board under your feet is held together by gaffer tape. San-Fran-based company Awayco is hoping to bring an end to this problem with its membership platform that aims to make high-quality board hire more accessible, more convenient and generally better for everyone, regardless of ability. You simply become a member online then reserve the board you want at any one of its registered surf stores. This means no more having to risk it with whatever board is available that day. Now the complete novice can learn on a Channel Islands 8-footer while the pros intent on shredding are free to do so on a JS Industries 5’9” number. To have the opportunity to test drive some of the best surfboard shapers in the world for a fraction of the cost of buying is why, just eight months of launching, Awayco is already making waves (sorry) in ive countries, including suring hotspots Bali and Mexico, as well as across Australia. And with quality of the utmost importance, Awayco is selective in the surf stores it partners with, operating only out of the world’s best. To learn more about the brand and its plans ahead, including moving beyond the suring world, we cut to the chase and asked spokesperson Taylor Paul for Awayco’s key takeaways.
Awayco has been a huge success and… “A big part of it is people getting exposure to new equipment. As a surfer you’re riding similar boards year after year because the risk of buying a board that you don’t like and having to sell it is just a pain. Then from the travelling point of view, not having to travel with boards – there’s a huge inancial gain there, too. There’s a huge weight lifted off you – very literally, and iguratively – when you can travel lightly.” The Netflix effect is happening with surfboards. “We really believe there can be a seismic shift in how we’re consuming these things. We’d love to have a smarter use of resources and beyond that, in terms of convenience for how we live our lives, to be able to use really high-quality equipment that we might not otherwise have access to. Whether that’s to diversify a quiver or the chance to try a mountain bike that I wouldn’t own because I’m not a mountain biker. It’s both deepening the connection between your core sport and exposing you to new adventures.” We’re making improvements to the platform. “Going forward, there’ll be two types of members – Flex and Prime. Flex members join for free by creating an account and then simply pay the listed day rate of their selected gear. Prime members pay a yearly fee and get reduced rates and favourable deals like better late fees and full damage coverage. This will allow us to expand into other sports like skiing and snowboarding.” awayco.com
$59/MONTH; AVAILABLE ON BOTH iOS AND ANDROID.
ZOMBIES, RUN! If a jog doesn’t get the blood pumping the way it used to, this mobile AR gaming experience is for you. Acting as ‘Runner 5’ in a zombie apocalypse, you take part in a series of missions that help to make running that little bit less miserable. FREE; AVAILABLE ON BOTH iOS AND ANDROID.
GYMBUD Couples who train together, stay together. Or at least that’s Gymbud’s thinking offering a way to meet, train with, and date other like-minded fitness freaks in your area. FREE; AVAILABLE ON BOTH iOS AND ANDROID.
WITH GOOGLE ALUMNI GIDEON SILVERMAN AND FRANCESCO NERIERI AS CO-FOUNDERS AND PRO SURFER ACE BUCHAN ON BOARD, SAFE TO SAY AWAYCO HAS ITS FAIR SHARE OF EXPERTISE.
The fit list
THE BIKE Sometimes, the classics are best left alone. Not, always though. And while we enjoy some good old-fashioned cycling, we’re also a fan of how Bosch is shaking things up with this motor, battery and on-board computer that will turn your boring old bike electric. Partnered with over 20 brands in Australia, the Bosch eBike System will mean arriving at work without looking like a sweaty mess. Win. $4999; TREKBIKES.COM/AU
FIVE TH I NGS TO KICKSTART TH E SUMM E R BOD.
THE CAMERA
BIKE: TREK ‘SUPER COMMUTER +7’, $4999; TREKBIKES.COM/AU
You don’t have to be an adrenaline junkee to put a GoPro to good use. Case in point, it’s festival season and unless you plan on arriving with enough portable chargers to power SA’s new Tesla energy grid, we’d suggest bringing a camera rather than relying on your iPhone. The tech company has released its first entry-level model, the GoPro ‘Hero’ that features HD-quality content on a two-inch touch display. Perhaps more importantly, they’ve also been so kind as to release a sleeve and lanyard, meaning at said festivals it’s only your dignity you’ll be losing and not your camera, too. GOPRO ‘HERO’, $299.95, SLEEVE AND LANYARD, $29.95; GOPRO.COM
THE SNEAKER
If the ubiquitous craze of printed tees as high fashion isn’t proof enough already, the resurrection of ASICSTIGER’s ‘91 Gelsaga’ proves retro is well and truly back. The recent take on the ’90s sneaker pays homage to 8-bit gaming, with three new neon colourways, and features the same GEL technology Asics debuted in ‘86. This is some retro fashion we can get behind – and no, it’s not an excuse to start rocking the mullet. $150; ASICSTIGER.COM
S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
239
LIFESTYLECOLLECTION MISTER PERFECT Australia’s first COMPLETE male makeover service. Mister Perfect finds the noble man inside yourself and helps you get ahead of the game with style, charm and distinction. You will discover your masculine essence become confident in your body, disciplined in your mind, sensitive to your emotions and considerate of others. Simply, Mister Perfect will help you become a class act. 0412 190 579 misterperfect.co misterperfect_au
misterperfect.co
MAN PERFECTED Man Perfected is an online only store offering the best in luxury high end men’s grooming products ranging from shaving creams and lotions to skincare and hair care. Take advantage of ‘Recurring Delivery’ to save time and money. GQ Readers receive 20% discount for first time purchases. Use Code: GQAUS20
JOHN PHILIPS Affordable luxurious timepieces. Designed in Melbourne, Australia.
manperfected man_perfected
manperfected.com.au
johnphilipswatches
johnphilips.com.au
HUNTER MAN Hunter Man is one of Perth’s premier men’s boutiques situated in the heart of Leederville. Stocking quality leather goods, shoes and accessories from Australian & European designers, along with a carefully curated range of watches, sunglasses and gifts for all tastes. Visit Hunter Man in-store or browse our latest collection online. 08 9328 7300 hunterstoreman hunterstore_man
hunterstore.com.au
PUSSYFOOT SOCKS Bamboozld is fun, quirky and expressive and captures every personality with its collection of bamboo socks, underwear, tee shirts and gift boxes.
MD COSMEDICAL SOLUTIONS
Luxuriously comfortable and eco-friendly, our bamboo blend and quirky designs will delight every wearer. Perfect for work and play! Available from David Jones, selected Menswear stores and online.
MD Cosmedical Solutions Cosmetic Surgery Clinics specialise in PRP Stem Cell Therapy. Hair Loss Treatment Sydney & Hair Loss Treatment Canberra Clinics specialize in treating both male & female balding.
Use discount code GQBAMBOO for 20% off your order.
1300 885 808
Pussyfoot Socks
pussyfootsocks.com.au
mdcosmedicalsolutions MDCosmedicalSolutions
mdcosmedicalsolutions.com.au
TO ADVERTI S E PLE ASE CO NTACT AMY FR E AR 1 3 00 1 3 9 3 05 EM AI L: GQCL ASS I FI EDS@ N E WSLI FEM E D IA .COM . AU
LIFESTYLECOLLECTION RUMI MAN
RAPHAEL
Inspired by what the name RUMI MAN brings to todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s you, uniqueness, class and luxury are among the top of what we offer. An Australian brand designing luxury handcrafted menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessories, from neckties to waistcoats and many things in between.
Precise Design and Quality Craftsmanship are at the heart of each and every RAPHAELâ&#x201E;˘ piece, specializing in premium Leather Goods and Lifestyle Essentials that are Handcrafted to order in Adelaide.
RUMI MAN is passionate about the classic look and the accessories that complete the look.
Complimentary Monogramming and Bespoke Services available online and in-store.
Trust us, keep an eye on RUMI MAN.
rumi.man.au
3 Percy Ct, Adelaide SA 5000 raphaelqualitygoods raphaelqualitygoods
rumi_man
rumiman.com.au
raphaelqualitygoods.com
FREEBODY
SOLANDER AND BANKS
Our design concept is bold, with a unique dial and a slim case. Each series of watches has a different concept, from the KR series with its unique African names, to the GS series with its minimalist design
At Solander & Banks we know being a well groomed gentleman takes time, effort and testing several products. We have personally curated the best skin, grooming and lifestyle products from Australia and New Zealand to make your life easier and ensure you look your best.
Use code GQ20 for a 20% Discount
freebodyau
freebody.com.au
solanderandbanks
solanderandbanks.com
TRIMLY Beautifully crafted shoe trees from Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premium shoe tree supplier. Get 15% off from our website using coupon code GQ15
trimlyau trimlyau
trimly.com.au
GRIP AUTO Grip Auto presents a true Automotive inspired timepiece. Designed in Melbourne featuring high-quality materials and a range of colours. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to get a Grip.
THE COACHMAN Understated Style and Elegance ..... That is The Coachman. 03 9598 2089 37 Hampton Street, Hampton VIC 3188 CoachmanMenswear coachmanmenswear.com.au
Get 10% off using the code GQ18 at the checkout grip_auto
gripauto.com.au S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
LIFESTYLECOLLECTION FUTURE YOUTH
TO THE NINES
Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest streetwear brand, born and designed in Melbourne.
Inspired by hip hop and rap culture, To The Nines is a high-end streetwear brand from Adelaide founded in 2017.
The next wave in Australian streetwear. Our latest release is here, shop now and use GQ15 for 15% off.
_futureyouth
futureyouthmelbourne.com
SILK BARBERS The eco-friendly and healthier choice is Silk Barbers pomade for your styling needs. Previously exclusive to our barbershop clients, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re now releasing this premium plant-derived formulation for the rest of Australia to experience. Made with natural and organic vegan ingredients, smells so good youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d want to eat it! Check out the full range on our website!
Striving to accomplish the key aspects of perfection by consistently maintaining the highest attention to the smallest of details. To The Nines aims to juxtapose a simplistic design with radiating conďŹ dence. This unique Australian brand is on the rise with high expectations in the near future.
Head to the website and use the discount code GQ20 for 20% off your next purchase.
Get 10% off when you purchase 3 or more items using coupon code GQ18 totheninesco Silk Barbers
silkbarbers
silkbarbers.com.au
tothenines_co
totheninesco.com
RADAR RADAR was established to build a global retailer aimed at delivering exceptional customer service. Both with active lifestyles and a keen eye for functional and quality sportswear, RADAR aims to source only the best brands for the customer and bring you a truly personalised shopping experience. Sign up and get 20% off your first order along with many other benefits including a loyalty program, RADAR REWARDS. shoponradar shopradar
shop-radar.com
VIRTUAL REALITY ROOMS
STEEZE VILLAINS CLOTHING Steeze Villains is driven by culture and innovation of streetwear. We are obligated to produce quality and stylish garments for more then a standard look.
Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1st team-based VR escape games. Be projected into amazing virtual worlds where you can see, hear and interact with your friends, family and team mates. Find clues, solve puzzles, fly through outer space, battle deadly enemies, master special abilities and do things you never thought possible in a fast-paced, action packed 60 minutes to complete your mission. Use code â&#x20AC;&#x153;GQâ&#x20AC;? when booking for free 15 min VR add-on
Each piece connects with the next, and is carefully chosen from a stylist expression. Level 1, 484 Kent St, Sydney NSW 2000 steezevillainsclothing
steezevillains.com
virtualrealityrooms
virtualrealityrooms.com.au
TO ADVE RTI S E PLE AS E CO NTACT A MY FR E AR 1 3 0 0 1 3 9 3 0 5 EM AI L: GQC L ASS I FI E DS@ N E WS LI FEM E D IA .COM . AU
LIFESTYLECOLLECTION SNEAKER SPA
SOMETHING VERY DELIBERATEâ&#x201E;˘
Sneaker Spa Sydney, a company by sneakerheads for sneakerheads.
Something Very Deliberateâ&#x201E;˘ is an independent, unisex clothing label established in Adelaide in 2016. Founded on principles of both artistic vision and a deeper meaning, the label takes inspiration from the purpose weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all here for.
We value the quality of your footwear and our main focus is to get your sneakers to the prestine condition as when you bought them; Boxfresh.
Releasing bi-annual, limited-run collections with a simple, bold approach to design, the label offers high-end style at an affordable price.
The Deluxe Exclusive $30. Deep and Dark clean, Standard Undersole Clean. Deodorising of Sneakers. sneakerspasydney
somethingverydeliberate
sneakerspasydney.com.au
somethingverydeliberate.com
DEBRIEFS UNDERWEAR
SERIEUX
Make one less decision a day! Debriefs support your success before you even get out of bed. Introducing Micro Modal, a fabric 3x softer and 50% more absorbent than cotton leaving you fresh and comfortable to focus on the important things in life.
Serieux is a youth run movement inspired by style, culture and community brought together with forward thinking ideals born in Sydney.
For a limited time, Debriefs are offering GQ Australia readers a 15% discount off everything online. Use the coupon code GQAUS15 to redeem your discount.
GQ readers receive an exclusive 20% off storewide. Use discount code: GQ20
Debriefs Debriefs_
debriefs.com.au
_serieux
serieux.com.au
TOLU AUSTRALIA SWIMSHORTS Tolu Australia brings you unique men swimwear. Exclusive patterns inspired in the flora and fauna of Latin America. Quick Dry fabric, UV protection and distinctive designs. Designed and manufactured in Colombia South America. info@tolu.com.au toluaustralia
tolu.com.au
WOODSMAN SKINCARE Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s be serious, winter in Australia isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t breaking any records for snow season in the high country, but it can be harsh on your skin. Woodsman Skincare has you covered from top to bottom. Protect your skin from the harsh elements this winter. Aussie made. Aussie owned. Use GQ20 at checkout for exclusive 20% off discount. @woodsmanskincare
woodsmanskincare.com
IMPERIAL CLOTHING Imperial Clothing is the next level of quality threads worldwide. Designed in Australia & taking the world by storm; you will be sure to find something under this banner to suit your needs. Imperial Clothing offers GQ readers a 10% discount on all products with code GQ imperialclothingptyltd imperial.clothing
imperialclothing.com.au S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU
KENDRICK LAMAR, CONT. FROM P185
He recalls his seventh-grade teacher Mr Inge, who turned him on to poetry: “It wasn’t a traditional English class,” he says. “It was more of an artistic exercise. He told us to ‘write something only you can understand, then pass it on to the next person.’” He tells me about the visit with his parents to the White House (“Obama reached out”). “My mother wore a black-and-brown dress; she made sure to wear her best.” And, he tells me, “It [took me back] to talking to my grandma, when she was alive, and I was always thinking what it would be like if we had a black president. She had some hope…” And even though Kendrick has had political songs, such as ‘XXX’ and ‘Alright’ – which became an anthem for Black Lives Matter marches – he says he doesn’t talk much about politics because “I just get too frustrated”. I ask him how he feels about Kanye West’s statements about Trump and about slavery and, after a long pause, he says, “He has his own perspective, and he’s on this whole agree to disagree thing, and I would have this conversation with him personally if I want to.” I ask about his song ‘Love’ on DAMN, and he says, “That’s one of my irst real personal love songs; it’s personal for me, but it’s a universal feeling when people listen to it.” But as for his own personal love relationship with Alford, he doesn’t talk about it, he says, because “I want something that’s just for me”. Since he says he was conident as a kid, and he’s conident now, why were there all those selfdoubts he’s written about that came in between? “I never thought about it like that,” he says. “That’s a question I’m going to ask myself tonight. Maybe it’s that fear... a lot of artists have a fear of success, they can’t handle it; some people need drugs to escape. For me, I need the microphone – that’s how I release it. And just iguring out a new life. Maybe thinking that I’m doing something wrong, or that I’m a little bit different or gifted. It’s the same thing as not wanting to accept compliments. Just wanting to work harder.” As for what’s next: “I don’t know,” he says. “And that’s the most fun part, the most beautiful part.” I ask him if, as he sings in ‘Element,’ he would “die for this shit,” and he says, without a second’s hesitation, “I would”. 24 4
G Q .COM . AU S E P TE M B E R/OCTO B E R 20 1 8
LOSING STREAK, CONT. FROM P227
Robinson also believes its hard for clubs and the AFL to do more given most players are extremely secretive about their gambling habits. “It’s secretive this stuff. And unless a player wants to talk about it, you know it’s an invasion of their privacy. If [the AFL] go and say, ‘You’ve got a problem’ then they’ll be like, ‘Who the fuck are you?’ They can’t do a lot until that player wants to talk about it.” GQ understands that current player education about problem-gambling, as delivered by the PA and AFL, involves various one-off discussions and seminars run at a club level and an annual survey at the start of a new year. “How many blokes do you reckon are answering that thing honestly – I’m not about to say I’ve got a problem with anything when I’m illing it out next to my teammate,” said one of the players we spoke to. Further, two said they would never tell the club of an issue for fear of looking weak among the playing group while also fearing such information being made pubic. “It’s happened before – a player’s gone and put his hand up and he’s been dropped for a game. There’s another guy who saw his name end up in the papers… Different clubs give different levels of care. Some, if you’re winning, couldn’t give a shit about what’s going on.” It’s a point furthered by Peter ‘Spida’ Everitt – a lithe and tattooed ruckman who played 291 games for St Kilda, Hawthorn and Sydney. “We’ve all seen it, play good footy and whatever problems that may be about – drugs or drinking or gambling – get swept under the table,” says Everitt. “There’s a massive role for clubs and the AFLPA around duty of care and player appreciation and development and every club is different. They have welfare oficers and some clubs make sure everybody goes no matter what – but other clubs you wouldn’t speak to them in three years, so there are very different standards at different football clubs… And ask an ex-player how many times he’s been contacted by the AFL or been checked in on to see how he’s doing out of the game? I haven’t heard from one club or
the AFL or the PA [Everitt retired in 2008]. So if a bloke comes out at age 24 and he’s bad into gambling, then who’s helping him?” Many point to the AFL’s need to accept the issue, increase transparency about it and bolster player education throughout the year. “I think that needs to happen, deinitely,” says Tony Sheahan, an AFL journalist with SEN Radio in Melbourne. “But then do we need to also look at changing the structure of payments – it’s childlike, but do we need to look at that? Give them a lump sum at employment’s end when they retire? I don’t know. Though, I agree that at the moment it feels like everyone’s just paying lip service to this issue – do the clubs and the AFL really want to address this or accept there’s a problem? “There is no quick ix, obviously though it is not an issue the AFL has properly addressed. And I’m not saying it is entirely the AFL’s problem, they are the peak body and have to take it into consideration, but it is also a club issue as much as it is a player’s responsibility. But we must keep talking to the players, keep talking about the dificulties.” As for Schwarz – a man who’s lived this tale and made it to the other side – only wholesale leadership changes that shake the core of the culture of gambling within the code will change things for the better. “They do presentations at [junior] TAC cup level which is great, and the clubs do presentations each year,” he says. “But until the AFL and the clubs takes it from the top down, and have and enforce blanket policies about gambling then it’s never going to be ixed.”
GQ PROMOTION
DIRECTORY THE MODERN MAN’S DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO ESSENTIAL SHOPPING AND SOPHISTICATED STYLE.
Hanz de Fuko is the super-hold product for movie stylists. Master educator and Hollywood stylist Quan Pierce has been using Hanz de Fuko Claymation on Avengers’ Chris Evans, Don Cheadle and Anthony Mackie to keep their locks as perfect as Robert Downey Jr.’s in the Iron Man ilms. hanzdefuko.com
WOR D ON TH E STR E ET If you haven’t yet heard of Steeze Villains, consider this your introduction. They’re a street-fashion-savvy bunch of designers in Adelaide, who collaborate to release cutting-edge men’s fashion with international style. Word is they are reinventing ‘the cut and sewn game’, and it’s obvious this is no run-of-the-mill fashion outit. steezevillains.com
Comfort, lexibility and style are the watchwords for Calvin Klein’s Modern Cotton Stretch two-pack low-rise trunks. Featuring the signature logo on the waistband, these trunks are made with a soft cotton blend and are available at Calvin Klein Underwear, David Jones and Myer. calvinklein.com
W H E N I N M E LBOU R N E Versace’s lagship boutique is now open in Melbourne’s refurbished T&G Building on Collins Street. It’s the perfect home for the brand; both combining a rich style heritage with contemporary luxury. Fior di Bosco marble and brass inside the boutique create a sophisticated backdrop for the prêt-à-porter and Versace Home Collection. versace.com
JACKET R EQ U I R E D
TI M E FOR TRAVE L
WATCH POWE R
The Moncler 1952 collection from the Italian fashion brand’s new Genius range pays homage to the label’s year of birth. The range deines the evolution of Moncler over 65 years and the collection showcases colourful revisions of its trademark puffer jackets and waistcoats. moncler.com
The Frédérique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture’s in-house designed technology means its functions and date are all adjustable from the crown. This is the third evolution of the pioneering watch and its best yet, allowing travellers to literally have the world at their ingertips. frederiqueconstant.com
Breitling’s Navitimer 8 B01 watch has up to 70 hours of reserve power and is water-resistant up to 100 metres. The subdials deine irst-class chronograph performance and a transparent case displays its workings. Choose a black, blue or bronzecoloured dial. breitling.com
Overalls, $2900, boots, $870, and gloves, $420, all by Emporio Armani; glasses, stylist’s own.
AMERICAN TOURISTER davidjones.com.au AMI amiparis.com AQUILA aquila.com.au BASSIKE bassike.com BEN SHERMAN bensherman.com.au BERLUTI 03 9653 3600 BREITLING 02 9221 7177 BUCKLE 1922 theiconic.com.au CALIBRE calbire.com.au CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC calvinklein.com CARHARRT carharrt-WIP.com.au CHANEL 1300 242 635 CLIENT LIAISON clientliaison.fashion COACH coachaustralia.com DIESEL au.diesel.com DIOR MEN 02 9229 4600 DOUBLE RAINBOUU doublerainbouu.com DRIES VAN NOTEN driesvannoten.be/shops DUNHILL harrods.com EDWARD SEXTON edwardsexton.co.uk EMPORIO ARMANI 02 8233 5858 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA zegna.com FUNKY TRUNKS funkytrunks.com G-STAR g-star.com GH BASS & CO. ghbass-eu.com
GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY doverstreetmarket.com GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY X LEVI’S doverstreetmarket.com GUCCI (watches) 02 9282 4280 GUCCI gucci.com H MOSER & CIE 1300 231 393 H&M hm.com/au HERMÈS 02 9287 3200 HUBLOT 03 8614 4300 INCU incu.com JAC + JAC jacandjack.com JACK LONDON jacklondon.com.au LACOSTE lacoste.com.au LONGINES 03 8844 3300 LOUIS VUITTON 1300 592 827 MAISON KITSUNÉ incu.com MARCS marcs.com.au MB&F & SARPANEVA mbandf.com MJ BALE mjbale.com NAUTICA nautica.com.au NIXON Nixon.com.au OMEGA omegawatches.com PAUL SMITH paulsmith.com PRADA 02 9223 1688 QUIKSILVER quiksilver.com POLO RALPH LAUREN 02 9238 9835
RADO rado.com SAINT LAURENT ysl.com SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 1300 095 224 SEIKO seikowatches.com.au-en SOCK SHOP sockshop.co.uk SSS WORLD CORP ssense.com SUIT SUPPLY 02 8880 0768 SUPERDRY superdry.com.au SUPERGA gluestore.com.au TAG HEUER tagheuer.com TEN PIECES tenpieces.com.au THE DAILY EDITED thedailyedited.com THE UPSIDE theupsidesport.com TISSOT tissotwatches.com TOD’S 02 8203 0901 TOM FORD harrolds.com TOMMY HILFIGER tommy.com TOPMAN topman.com TRENERY trenery.com.au UNIQLO uniqlo.com/au UWERK Uwerk.com VAULT vault.swiss VAN HEUSEN vanheusen.com.au VANS vans.com.au VENROY venroy.com.au
PRIVACY POLICY NewsLifeMedia collects information about you, including for example your name and contact details which you provide when registering or using our services as well as information from data houses, social media services, our affiliates and other entities you deal or interact with for example by using their services. We collect and use that information to provide you with our goods and services, to promote and improve our goods and services, for the purposes described in our Privacy Policy and for any other purposes that we describe at the time of collection. We may disclose your information to our related companies, including those located outside Australia. Any of us may contact you for those purposes (including by email and SMS). We may also disclose your information to our service and content providers, including those located outside Australia. If you do not provide us with requested information we may not be able to provide you with the goods and services you require. Where you have entered a competition, we may disclose your personal information to authorities if you are a prize winner or otherwise as required by law. Further information about how we handle personal information, how you can complain about a breach of the Australian Privacy Principles, how we will deal with a complaint of that nature, how you can access or seek correction of your personal information and our contact details can be found in our Privacy Policy newscorpaustraliaprivacy.com.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSE LIZOTTE.
STOCKISTS
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER
THE
LAST WORD
Full name, and where you’re originally from?
Fine. Netflix recently picked up Glitch, in
RODGER EARL KENNETH CORSER.
which you play a Zombie-like character
I GREW UP IN MELBOURNE.
called John. Congrats! Been binge-watching anything lately?
Any nicknames?
HE’S ACTUALLY NOT OFFICIALLY A
DODGE, OR DODGER.
ZOMBIE (IT’S COMPLICATED) AND HIS NAME CHANGES TO WILLIAM
How do you balance a marriage and four
(AGAIN, COMPLICATED). BUT I’M
children with an acting career?
CURRENTLY WATCHING WESTWORLD
IT’S LESS ABOUT HOW I DO IT
AND I JUST STARTED SNOWFALL.
AND MORE ABOUT HOW MY WIFE What’s the major differences between working
RENAE DOES IT.
on free to air, versus a streaming project? According to Wikipedia, Rodger Corser has
SERVICING A BROAD DEMOGRAPHIC
appeared in how many TV series?
VERSES A NICHE ONE.
19 X
Well put. AFL, or rugby?
21 33
Correct. Describe your Doctor Doctor character, Hugh Knight, using three words: TALENTED, FLAWED, DRIVEN. You play a convincing bad boy on screen. Is there an actor you take cues from when channelling the ’tude? I THINK I’VE DONE A GREAT JOB AT FOOLING EVERYONE INTO BELIEVING I’M SO GROUNDED. IT’S POSSIBLE TO NOT LET
WITH
RODGER CORSER A S L E W O F S TA R R I N G R O L E S I N H I T S E R I E S L I K E U N D E R B E L LY, RUSH AND McLEOD’S DAUGHTERS M A K E S T H E 4 5 -Y E A R - O L D O N E O F THE MOST RECOGNISABLE FACES O N AU S T R A L I A N T V. H E A L S O ANSWERED THESE QUESTIONS FROM A PADDOC K I N RU R AL N SW ON TH E SET OF DOCTOR DOCTOR. WE NEVER SA I D H E WAS N ’ T V E R S AT I L E .
I’VE BEEN A MEMBER OF HAWTHORN FOR 19 YEARS AND THE RABBITOHS 17. What’s currently on your playlist? GARY CLARK JR. How about your reading list? A JACK LANG AUTOBIOGRAPHY FROM THE 1960S. You attend a few red carpet events. Any tips on taking a decent Instagram? HIGH ANGLE = REDUCED CHINS.
WORDS: AMY CAMPBELL. PHOTOGRAPHY: DENISE TRUSCELLO.
EVERYONE KNOW WHAT YOU’VE Filter, or no filter?
DONE, EVERY TIME YOU DO IT. What car are you currently driving?
NONE AT MAGIC HOUR. OTHERWISE I
A HYUNDAI ‘SANTA FE’.
SAY USE ALL THE HELP YOU CAN GET.
JUST HAPPEN TO THE GIRLS.
You’ve been nominated for two consecutive
Noted. Go-to hash tag?
I’VE HAD MY FAIR SHARE.
Gold Logies, in 2017 and 2018. Chances on
#DATENIGHT.
Soundadvice.Mostembarrassingmomentonset? WARDROBE MALFUNCTIONS DON’T
sealing the deal in 2019? Strangest fan interaction?
VERY LITTLE.
DOCTOR DOCTOR HAS A VERY WIDE
What’s your dream watch? PAUL NEWMAN’S ROLEX ‘DAYTONA’.
DEMOGRAPHIC, WITH FANS IN
What does Grant Denyer have
IT RECENTLY AUCTIONED FOR
THEIR 70S AND 80S, SO THAT’S
that you don’t?
A FEW MILLION DOLLARS.
LED TO SOME INTERACTIONS THAT
A GOLD LOGIE… DUH! This is our big fashion issue. How would
HAVE BEEN… DIFFERENT! Sorry to rub it in. Any good 2018 Logies gossip
you describe your personal style?
If I could play anyone in a biopic, it would be…
doing the rounds?
CLASSIC. PERHAPS OLD SCHOOL?
JIMI HENDRIX. BUT OF COURSE
YEP, HEAPS. BUT YOU KNOW WHAT
THAT’S STUPID, I DON’T PLAY
THEY SAY. WHAT HAPPENS ON THE
SEASON 3 OF DOCTOR DOCTOR IS
GUITAR LEFT-HANDED.
GOLD COAST…
AIRING NOW ON CHANNEL NINE.