Issue 319 Preview

P R T ol YM TE UN ntr OL EN H co EV ON ake AR u t SHlps yo he

LAMINITIS - A LIFE SENTENCE !

IYNHALL PREVENT IT with our expert advice W ARR ING

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horse

H LOTH 2520 C TH £ WOR

INSPIRATION FOR OWNING AND ENJOYING HORSES

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BRITAIN’S BEST-SELLING EQUESTRIAN MONTHLY 14 PAGE SPECIAL

READY TO RIDE Everything you need to back your youngster

What happened to Dr Strasser?

WIN THE ULTIMATE YEAR WITH YOUR HORSE ance to en ter!

Your last ch

38 ✚

Riding & owning problems solved

Sweet Itch Special

THE TEST BRUSHING BOOTS WHY THEY MATTER & WHICH TO BUY THE BEST TRAVEL KIT FROM £8-£90 PLUS

£1400 OF FREE KIT UP FOR GRABS

£3.70 ISSUE 319 26 February-25 March 2009

EXTREME BAREFOOT TRIMMING

NEW TO RIDING?

FIND THE RIGHT INSTRUCTOR REAL LIFE ‘Seven months of agony but my horse kept me going’

WIN THE

ULTIM ATE YEAR WITH YOUR HORSE

24 YOUR HORSE

WORTH MORE THAN £15,000

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Will you be the lucky reader to win this prize of a lifetime?

This is it – your last chance to enter our competition of a lifetime. Take a look at the list of prizes on offer – it’s deserving of an Oscar it’s so good. Not only will you take delivery of lots of fabulous kit, have regular lessons from celebrity riders, get free shoeing and feeding, and win transport to travel your horse in style, you’ll

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also regularly star in the magazine, which we think is very exciting!

This really is going to be a dream come true for one reader. The second set of questions is on the next few pages – what are you waiting for? Don’t forget we need part one’s answers too, from issue 318. For a back issue call 0845 121 4000. �

YOUR HORSE 25

FIND YOUR INSPIRATION Keen to improve your riding, but not sure where to start?

Our guide to finding a great riding school or instructor will help you make this the year you achieve your goals.

Whether you ride once a week at a riding school or plan to event at Advanced level this season on your own horse, finding the right instructor who understands your fears, goals and way of thinking is vital. A good instructor will

42 YOUR HORSE

inspire you, fill you with confidence, help you set realistic goals and be the guiding influence you need to have fun and achieve all you want to on horseback.

So here’s how to find the right instructor for you.

Back to school

Hundreds of centres have now signed up to the scheme across the UK and Ireland, and are inspected yearly. For a list of BHS-approved riding schools in your area, visit www.bhs.org.uk and click on ‘approved centres’.

The Association of British Riding Schools (ABRS) has been running its riding school approval scheme since 1954, and a list of 500 or so approved centres can be found on www.abrs-info.org – click on ‘find your local riding school’.

✓

Britain is home to more than 3,000 riding schools and finding the one that’s right for you can take a bit of homework. To help regulate yards and set recognised high levels of safety, teaching and equine welfare, the British Horse Society (BHS) has set up its approvals scheme.

Remember that a great riding school will… � Assess you as an individual and offer well-supervised, progressive instruction in a safe environment on suitable, well-schooled horses � Be happy to answer any questions you have on riding and horse care � Encourage you to get involved with your horse before and after a lesson, and be willing to expand your know-how by showing you

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k noliw Loo fied of BHS qua

A list nd at can be fou instructors – click on register org.uk www.bhs. ctors. For a list of ru st in of your area, coaches in accredited vant association’s le visit the re w.britisheventing. w website: w w.bsja.co.uk or w w ; m . co shdressage www.briti k co.u

how to tack up and rug up, etc � Run a safe, tidy, calm yard where the welfare of the horses is the first concern, and the horses appear well fed and contented in their work � Be happy for you to go and watch a lesson first to get a feel for the level and type of instruction, and give you a chance to chat to other riders about their experiences But beware if… � The yard is untidy and unsafe, with unsupervised novice riders � The horses are unresponsive to handle and ride, and show unsafe behaviour – for example, rearing, bucking or napping � Riders aren’t individually assessed and are given horses unsuitable for their experience � The horses’ welfare is questionable � Class sizes are large and lessons are disorganised

✗

Help and support

Whether you’re learning at a riding school or having private instruction on your own horse, it’s hugely important you feel confident to talk through your problems with your instructor, and feel that he or she is on your wavelength.

“It’s always a good idea to ask someone who’s of a similar ability or having similar problems to you who they recommend, as some instructors are really good at building confidence, while others are good at pushing people but aren’t so sympathetic to nervous riders,” says Tina Trundle BHSII, an event rider and instructor based in South Lincolnshire.

“Ideally, your instructor should have teaching qualifications, but most importantly you should go to someone you respect as a rider.

I like to go to people who I know

can get on my horse and do it a lot better than I can, and who are competing and know what the game is all about.

“I’d say 95% of my clients compete at some level and so are working towards goals, which makes my job easier. But whatever your level, you should always expect to be appraised as an individual. If you’re on your own horse, chances are your instructor will want to see you warm up as you would at home. They can then appraise what you’re doing and set achievable goals, aiming for a steady progress and reassessing your goals as you achieve them.

“Above all, be honest and tell your instructor exactly what you’ve done, what you want to achieve – and how you feel – as so much of riding is psychological and a lesson can become a counselling session!”

Tina’s top tips

� If you’re out competing and your instructor can’t be there, ask someone to video you, as nerves can turn us into different riders and it’s important for your instructor to see this � If you’re really struggling and have been for some time, ask your instructor to appraise the partnership between you and your horse. It might be that you’re battling away on the wrong horse, and making the decision to sell him and get a more suitable one will transform your riding. You pay a lot for your hobby and should enjoy it! � Check whether your instructor has insurance should anything happen to you or your horse during a lesson, or while your instructor is riding him

The BHS Directory of Where to Ride, Train and Stable Your Horse is priced at £14.99 from www.amazon.co.uk

VET

What causes sweet itch?

Q

Is it the heat or insects that cause sweet itch, or is it a combination of the two?

Holly, York Gil Riley says Sweet itch is caused by the horse or pony having an allergic reaction to the saliva of the biting midge, culicoides. There are many species of culicoides, some preferring to bite along the back of the horse, while other species target the belly area. The fly injects its saliva into the horse’s skin in order to suck up blood for a meal. Classic sweet itch is caused when, in addition to the pain of the bite, the horse has an allergic reaction to the saliva of the midge.

This reaction causes an intense itch, which the horse will attempt to relieve by rubbing against solid objects, or biting at the area. This extra trauma then causes hair loss and damage to the skin.

The likelihood of a horse having an allergic reaction to midge saliva increases with age and tends to get worse each year.

A

Sweet itch can be seen in any breed but is most common in Welsh and Icelandic ponies

horse answers sweet itch special VET

Investing in a quality fly rug is essential

Keeping him comfortable

Q

How can I minimise the effects of sweet itch?

My horse suffered very badly with it last year.

Abbey, Staffordshire Gil Riley advises Unfortunately, now your horse has developed this allergic reaction, it will never go away.

However, there’s lots you can do to prevent the problem recurring.

You need to prevent midges from biting your horse. Make your premises less attractive to flies by removing any standing water that collects in old tyres or buckets, as these provide breeding grounds. Ensure there’s good drainage in stables and paddocks, and no moist areas created by leaking taps or water systems. The same applies to any wet organic material such as manure, old bedding and wasted hay, which should be collected daily and composted

A

in a covered pile. A good idea is to keep your muck heap covered in black plastic – this helps keep the flies off, deterring breeding, and the heat generated beneath the plastic will kill any fly eggs and larvae For specific , that are developing there. dvice specialist a nal Culicoides are most tio a call the N lpline active around dusk and e H ch It t Swee dawn so simply stabling on 01352 your horse at these times weather 771718 can be a big help. If possible, conditions. close stable doors and windows, Ask other owners, and use a very fine fly screen especially those on your yard over the stable door. Increasing where they will be dealing with airflow in the stable by using a the same midge challenge, what fan can also help. Avoid turning they find effective. Be prepared your horse out in wet, boggy to try a variety of repellents fields and, if possible, move him before you find one that works to a more exposed, windy site. for you.

Use of an effective fly Fly rugs are a great help for repellent is an absolute must. preventing culicoides midges However, it’s difficult to predict from attacking the horse’s body. which ones will prove effective The extent to which bites are in your particular case, as this prevented depends greatly on can vary with region and the quality of the material of the

Top tip

rug. The more expensive rugs – costing anything from £150 to £250 – can prove a wise longterm investment. Some rugs also have attachments to protect the belly, neck and head.

It’s best to start using a fly rug before the fly season starts so the protective barrier is in place.

If your horse has already started itching, it may be necessary to seek veterinary treatment, as the irritation won’t cease with the use of the rug and an expensive rug can be destroyed quickly by itching.

Image courtesy of the National Sweet Itch Helpline

HORSE CARE

HORSE CARE

What are the symptoms of sweet itch?

Q

I think my mare may be showing the first sign of sweet itch.

What are the symptoms?

Suzie, on email

Vaccine trails have produced positive results

Vaccine on the horizon

Q A

I’ve heard there’s a new vaccine for sweet itch – is this true?

Jess, on email Ellie Hoyes replies Yes – all being well!

The National Sweet Itch Centre has been running trials of the BioEos vaccine, with promising results.

At the end of last year they got the go ahead from the Veterinary

Medicines Directorate to continue the trials with 500 horses and ponies.

Three initial injections were given two weeks apart, followed by feeding capsules every two weeks, until the end of the sweet itch season. Of these, 4% of horses were cured and 70% made improvements.

Hopefully the drug will be available to all sweet itch sufferers soon.

to our vet �Vet speak Talk free online at

www.yourhorse.co.uk

Ellie Hoyes replies Typical symptoms of sweet itch include an allergic reaction where the insects feed, which is usually in the mane and tail. Skin lesions appear here and sometimes also may also appear around the ears and head.

The lesions cause intense itching and then rubbing.

The constant rubbing can then cause inflamed, sore and bleeding skin, bald patches and perhaps secondary infections.

Symptoms include severe itching, hair loss, skin thickening and flaky dandruff.

Weeping sores may also occur.

A

The mane and tail are often the first areas to show symptoms

Without attention, these sores can suffer secondary infection.

The top of the tail and the mane are most commonly affected. The neck, withers, hips, ears and forehead, and in more severe cases the mid-line of the belly, the saddle area, the sides of the head, the sheath or udder and the legs, may also suffer.

The horse may swish his tail vigorously, roll frequently and attempt to scratch on anything within reach. He may pace endlessly and seek excessive mutual grooming from field companions.

YOUR HORSE 55

�

celebrity

horse answers

new series

THIS MONTH

This month’s expert is National Grand Prix British Champion Maria Eilberg who answers your questions on dressage RIDING

Help me get her moving

Riding transitions will help to engage the hocks and create more elevation in the trot

Q

I find I’m constantly nudging my mare along as she can be quite lazy. What can I do to get her to move off my leg more effectively?

Jess, on email

A

The key is not to get in the habit of nagging.

If you do, your mare will switch off and become even less responsive to your leg.

You want to be able to remind your horse with your leg, but you should otherwise keep your leg still. Have you tried some spurs? These could help in getting your mare to respond to your leg the first time you ask.

You could also try the whip.

I always use my leg first and, if there’s no response, I use the whip as a reminder. If you find she bucks as you come a bit stronger with the leg or the whip, don’t be put off, stick with it and she’ll come around to accepting it.

Top0mtcircip le at

RIDING

Ride a 1 ill er – this w every mark age your g help to en dlegs horse’s hin

Making the trot more expressive Used correctly, spurs can make for a more responsive horse

64 YOUR HORSE

Q A

How do I achieve more elevation in the trot?

Beth, on email Greater elevation is achieved by improving the engagement from behind. You have to work at creating

more energy and using the half-halt to keep it in the hindleg – you don’t want the trot to run away from you.

If you feel your horse gets a little strong, use trot-walk-trot and trot-halt-trot transitions.

Riding transitions within the trot will also help to engage the hindleg.

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celebrity horse answers RIDING

RIDING

Can I use a double bridle?

How can I make my youngster supple?

Q A

At what level can you start to ride in a double bridle?

Kathryn, on email You can ride in a double bridle as early as Elementary level but it only becomes a must when competing internationally.

Personally, I like to do most of my riding in the snaffle, but it depends on the type of horse.

If they’re particularly strong, the double can help to get them to back off.

Q A

My youngster is stiff on the right rein. What exercises can I do to make her more supple?

Jen, on email A little bit of gentle lateral work will help.

Try a bit of shoulder fore and leg-yield, even if it’s only in walk.

You can also work with circles and, as she progresses, you can leg-yield out from a smaller circle to a larger circle.

A bit of counter bending on the left rein could also help.

Leg-yield is a great suppling exercise

�Need help?

Maria Eilberg riding Two Sox at the Nationals – a double bridle is compulsory in international competition

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If you have a question that you want answering by our celebrity of the month, or our panel of experts, simply email rebecca. gibson@bauermedia.co.uk with Horse Answers in the subject line, or go online

YOUR HORSE 65

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sing tried and tested techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation, Jennie proves that the backing process is readily accepted by most horses. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The most important thing to remember when dealing with young horses is to remain calm,â&#x20AC;? says Jennie. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If the handler is confident and reassuring, the horse will soon learn to relax around humans.â&#x20AC;?

Depending on the type of horse, Jennie begins the backing process between the ages of two and three. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our TBs will often be backed around the age of two, while our Warmbloods â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who as a breed are slower growing and need more time for their bones to strengthen and mature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be backed until they are three year olds,â&#x20AC;? she says.

Prior to backing, the youngsters are kept at grass.

They are handled frequently by the farrier and for routine veterinary treatment, but apart from this theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had very little contact with people when they are brought in to be backed.

Despite this, it usually takes Jennie just three to four weeks to get each youngster started in their ridden careers, with the exception of the occasional nervous horse who may take a little longer.

Following a successful career as an international rider and judge, Jennie Loriston-Clarke set up Catherston Stud. Her traditional methods produce calm and confident horses, ready for a working life.

Setting the scene Jennie would usually begin working with a youngster in her enclosed purpose-built round pen.

There is limited space and fewer distractions, making it easier for her to keep the focus and attention of a young horse. If, however, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not lucky enough to have such facilities, Jennie suggests sectioning off a third of

the school using show jumps.

When working in a new area, Jennie always takes the time to show a young horse his new surroundings. She stands on the outside of the track as she leads the horse around the edge of the school, so the horse feels free to move away from anything that makes him nervous.

Jennie always takes time to show a young horse his new surroundings

YOUR HORSE 69

ďż˝

88 YOUR HORSE

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THE

TEST Brushing boots

boots Brushing boots are the most commonly used form of leg protection for every day riding activities and exercise – we put nine different brands under scrutiny

The test

The AWARDS

DESIGN AND FIT We scrutinise the materials, shape, design of the strike pad and fastenings, inner cushioning and general innovation adopted in the boots’ design

The brushing boots that excelled in every category: design, performance and value for money

PERFORMANCE Do the boots afford adequate protection?

We assess their quality, durability, practicality, performance and wear, as well as their protection level

The boots that were solid performers yet didn’t cost the earth

VALUE FOR MONEY With such a wide price range available, we consider the boots’ performance in relation to their cost and decide which offer the best value

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We highlight other strong performers in the test, to help you make the right buying decisions for your horse

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YOUR HORSE 89

Help me stop him rushing into fences ďż˝ Your problems solved with our one-to-one training sessions Words Rebecca Gibson

96 YOUR HORSE

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Riding Private Lessons

The trainer � Name Sharon Hunt � Experience Sharon is ranked among the top 50 eventers in the world.

She currently competes 10 horses at all levels, including the World Equestrian Games, Burghley and Badminton.

At the 2008 Olympics Sharon, aboard Tankers Town, was part of the incredibly talented British team that secured a bronze medal.

The rider and horse � Name Liz Hale � Experience Liz bought six-year-old Selle Français gelding Ollie last May after his fouryear racing career was brought to a premature end.

Ollie had never even been ridden in a school before but after lots of hard work the pair have been competing successfully and at their first show jumping competition went double clear over 2ft 3in fences.

However, Ollie has a habit of rushing and this is starting to dent Liz’s confidence.

Before they start Sharon asks Liz to tell her a bit about Ollie and what she thinks they need to work on.

“Ollie has a fantastic nature for an ex-racehorse,” says Liz. “Although he’s a bit sharp sometimes, he’s pretty much unflappable. However, I feel that while Ollie is coming on in leaps and bounds, I’m a bit rusty. I find it difficult to see my stride as we approach a fence and I’m worried that I’ll end up spoiling Ollie, who’s coming on so well.”

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YOUR HORSE 97

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1 Cold weather

3 Hard ground

5 Being overweight

7 Drug induced

9 Prolonged weight bearing

2 Toxins in the bloodstrea m

s 4 Stressful situation

6 Mares and fillies in season

8 Inappropriate foot dressing

10 Chemical or plan

t poisoning

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10 possible causes of laminitis

1 Some horses are abnormally sensitive to the cold – use leg wraps to alleviate the problem 2 The presence of toxins in the bloodstream, following an infection, for example, can trigger an attack 3 Fast or prolonged work on hard ground can cause trauma to the laminae 4 Stress can bring about an attack, and it could be something as simple as an injection that sets it off 5 Obesity causes many problems for horses 6 A hormonal imbalance can induce laminitis 7 Corticosteroids can trigger severe symptoms 8 Over-tight foot dressings can cause trauma 9 The hindlimbs are particularly sensitive to weight bearing laminitis 10 Ingestion of poisons cause bacterial changes that can lead to an attack

Laminitis explained

Laminitis is a chronically painful condition that damages and weakens the laminae in the horse’s foot.

“If you imagine the pedal bone as a trapeze artist and the 600 or so laminae as the ropes supporting him within the hoof capsule, laminitis attacks these ‘ropes’ causing them to weaken, fray and even snap in extreme cases,” says vet Gil Riley. “As a result the pedal bone can drop (otherwise known as founder) and rotate.

Lengthy box rest is essential after an attack, on a deep, soft bed to support the frog and, by association, the pedal bone directly above it. It also takes the pressure off the delicate laminae to enable them to repair.”

Laminitis the inside story

Spring is a danger time for laminitis but with our experts’ help you can prevent this devastating disease – and cope in the event of an emergency Words by Helen Milbank

L

aminitis is one of the biggest causes of lameness in the UK, and just the word can strike fear into owners whose horses and ponies have battled the condition. But there are steps you can take to protect your horse from this crippling disease, catch it in its tracks, and implement potentially life-saving first aid in the event of an attack. Our top experts explain how.

Meet our expert Vet Gil Riley co-manages the equine practice of the Pool House Veterinary Group

Our vet says

With recurrent laminitics there is always a driving cause – a reason why the horse or pony has this disease – and the most common driver is excessive fat deposits. Fat is far from being an inert cuddly tissue. Rather, it’s a toxic reservoir that produces inflammatory proteins, and these circulate in the body causing havoc. In people, the most dangerous type of fat is around the midriff as the proteins produced here damage the heart and blood vessels – in horses it’s the fat

around the crest of the neck that’s the most dangerous, as the inflammatory proteins produced here prime the animal to develop laminitis.

However, any fat is capable of this. In other words, a fat horse is predisposed to the condition and less of a trigger factor will be required to tip him into a laminitic state.

These trigger factors include an excessive amount of simple sugars (lush or frosted grass), psychological stress, excessive concussion to the foot or hormonal disease (usually Cushing’s or equine metabolic syndrome – EMS).

The first step in preventing laminitis is managing your horse’s condition. Aim for a condition score of two-anda-half to three, with zero being emaciated, one being poor, two being the thin side of acceptable – where you can just see the ribs – three being the plump side of acceptable, so you can feel the ribs but not see them, four being fat and five obese.

Next, monitor his diet and control his calorie intake, regularly weigh taping and condition scoring your horse and using photographs to monitor the fat on the crest of

his neck, as a weigh tape doesn’t include this area.

Finally, consider the conformation of your horse’s feet and work with a good farrier to keep the hooves in the best possible shape to maintain the pedal bone’s correct position within the hoof capsule.

“Some horses will have to be permanently managed but with the right management and care, the prognosis is good for laminitis-prone animals, and many can enjoy a good quality of life without coming into contact with their laminitis trigger factors.

In an emergency If laminitis strikes, follow Gil’s five-point plan

1

Call your vet, who will administer pain killers (or in the most acute cases, perform foot nerve blocks) to enable the horse to be moved to a stable. Cotton wool or a soft pad under the frog, held in place with a bandage, can help to support the area until the vet arrives. You’re aiming to get the frog to bear the horse’s weight before the hoof wall, and especially the sole of the foot, has to.

Box rest your horse immediately on a shavings or shavings/sand bed that’s at least 6cm deep. He must be unable to

2

put his foot anywhere other than on the bed. No matter how fast he responds to treatment, total box rest is vital for at least three to four weeks, possibly more.

Use anti-inflammatories for pain relief and a sedative if necessary to help your horse stay calm during box rest, as directed by your vet.

If any sinking of the hoof capsule is suspected, X-rays will be able to identify the extent of the damage and appropriate supportive measures taken, including perhaps the use of

3 4

glue-on supportive shoes.

Implement a weight loss diet, but never starve your horse as this fans the flames of laminitis.

Instead feed soaked, low calorie hay and high fibre chaff.

5

�Online help If you want to chat to a vet, free of charge, log on to the Your Horse website to see when our vet will next be available for advice

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