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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO FINDING YOUR IDEAL HORSE

Dressage eventing hack western...

Which horse do I buy?

HOW TO CHOOSE ONE THAT MATCHES YOUR AMBITIONS

Gain his trust EXPERT ADVICE TO HELP YOU

BOND WITH YOUR HORSE

RD Finding the right YA WHERE TO BUY E GREAT FEEDING ADVIC HEALTHY KEEPING YOUR HORSE TRANSPORT OPTIONS

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contents

04 Counting the cost Expensive, yes, but oh so worth it

07 Where to buy

56 Moving home

We look at the different sources and explain the pros and cons of each

It’s a stressful time for your new horse, so here’s how to help him settle in

12 Buying process

How to take the stress out of finding your horse and to enjoy the excitement

22 Choosing a yard

The right yard makes owning a horse a dream – here’s how to avoid the pitfalls

29 The ideal horse

16 pages of expert advice to help you find your perfect partner, whether you want a show jumper, youngster, dressage star, show horse, eventer, endurance horse, child’s pony, western wonder, all-round fun or ex-racehorse

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63 Feeding

Everything you need to know from how to condition score your new steed to choosing the right feed for his type and workload, and if he needs supplements

70 Bonding

It can be an immediate thing or take work; either way, we help you bond

79 Keep him healthy From vet checks to worming and first aid to grooming, it’s all here

84 Transport

How to choose the right form of transport for your needs

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54 Insurance

How to find the right company, the right policy, and arrange the vetting

91 Selling your horse

Sometimes circumstances force it or you have to admit there’s a better match out there for you – here’s how to make the best of a stressful situation

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Counting costs We take a look at the cost of owning a horse

hether you’re an experienced owner or are returning to horses after a break, it’s worth revisiting the cost of keeping a horse before you part with your cash. Even the most frugal of owners will tell you that keeping a horse can easily cost more than you think – the trick is to spend your money where it counts and budget for the essentials.

Monthly costs Livery

It could be as simple as renting a field or as pricey as full livery at a top yard including regular exercise. Don’t forget, though, that the most basic DIY won’t include feed, bedding or maybe even upkeep of things like fencing, so that £15-a-week field could still cost

two or three times that amount. Depending on location, DIY livery at a typical yard costs around £125 a month. Full livery varies, but expect to pay £400 to £,1000 a month.

because it doesn’t absorb urine. Modern bedding is superb – even better when used with rubber matting – and if a few of you club together at the yard you can probably get a bulk deal. Expect to spend around £56 per month for shavings and £30 for straw.

Feed

Instruction

Many of us are guilty of making Finding the right instructor makes feeding complicated. For an all the difference. This is active competition horse, mainly because the right the right combination of teacher not only helps you Most of us over-estimate progress but also gives feeds and supplements the amount of work our you the inspiration and is essential. For most of horse actually does when motivation to practise us, the important thing it comes to feeding. is to be honest about how between lessons. Lesson Most leisure horses much work our horse does prices vary but expect to are in light work and feed accordingly. Most pay £20 to £85 depending horses can manage absolutely on the instructor’s experience. fine with lots of forage and a vitamin supplement. For an average ridden horse, allow An essential but fixed cost. Finding a around £25 per month, based on good, reliable blacksmith is the tricky feeding the simplest option. bit. Once you have one they are worth A month’s hay typically costs around their weight in gold, especially if you £40 if your horse is in overnight and find one who is flexible and punctual. out through the day – more in winter Expect to pay around £65 a visit for a if turnout is restricted or when full set of shoes. grazing is poor.

FACT

Shoeing

Bedding

This is another area where costs can vary massively. Straw is cheap, but adds massively to mucking out time

Worming

Another essential but fixed cost. Again, there are plenty of options, but typically worming will cost around £13 a time.

PERFECT PARTNERS ♥ From the publishers of Your horse and horse deals magazines

We love our horses, but we pay dearly for them!

Transport

Annual costs Vaccinations

Not just for his health, but essential for livery yard regulations and competition, too. Vaccinations should ideally be part of an annual once-over by your vet and typically cost around £70 per visit. Save money on the call-out fees by sharing the visit with others on your yard.

Insurance

Be realistic about the cover you need and the value of your horse. Loss of use cover might seem like a luxury, but what will you do if he gets seriously injured and your competition horse turns into an expensive pet? Insurance is expensive and it’s always worth shopping around. Most companies offer good deals for new customers so don’t be afraid to swap insurers – you could save hundreds each year. Typically a £10,000 horse will cost around £800 a year to insure just for basic cover without loss of use. If you’re a member of an affiliated association such as British Dressage or the British Horse Society, check the membership benefits, as they usually include some form of rider and/or third party liability insurance.

Lorry or trailer, buy or rent, own or share? One day you’ll need to move your horse and there are lots of options. Trailers are the easiest and cheapest, but you need a big enough car to pull them, with all the associated fuel and insurance costs of daily running. Small, van-based lorries are cheap to run and easy to drive and maintain, but can be expensive to buy and don’t have living space. The bigger lorries have license restrictions, cost a fortune in fuel and servicing, but are relatively cheaper to buy because fewer people want one. For occasional users, hiring a lorry may be the better option. No annual insurance, no maintenance costs and no depreciation, either.

THE HIDDEN COSTS OF OWNING A HORSE

That 20-mile round trip to the yard every day is currently costing about £30 a week in fuel – and rising. The extra hour or two for the kids at the child minder adds a few quid, too, not to mention the laundry costs of getting those rugs cleaned. Even when you think you’ve thought of everything, there is almost certainly more money to spend somewhere!

Tack

Buy smartly and your new horse may come with a saddle that fits, some rugs and a bridle. If not, you’ll need to budget for these straight away. Then there’s the breeches, riding hat, boots, spurs, waterproof coat and winter mucking-out trousers. And the buckets, grooming kit, haynets, saddle pads, socks, fly masks, etc. Spend a night or two with your credit card and a mail order catalogue and you could easily blow another £1,000.

Competitions

If you’re competing most weekends you’re likely to get through at least £150 a month in diesel and entry fees – if you stay local – more if you travel further afield. Then there are the extra lessons, time off work and the affiliation fees that vary depending on the organisation, with British Eventing currently the most expensive at £240 a year for both horse and rider.

The bottom line

Owning horses costs money. Even the thriftiest of riders will spend a couple of grand a year on their hobby. For the rest of us, that figure can be up to four times as much. What horse owners are very good at, though, is balancing the books to find the funds because, to coin a phrase, he’s worth it.

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Where to find your

perfect partner S

He’s out there somewhere – but where?

o now the fun begins. You have a budget, the all-important family backing and enthusiasm, and have found a yard to keep him at. All you need now is a horse. Take a deep breath and scrub everything out of the calendar for the next few weekends, because this may take some time. The first question is ‘where to buy?’ And the correct answer is to keep an open mind depending on the kind of horse you want. Obviously, you won’t be buying a £500 bombproof happy hacker from a stud farm and, likewise, you’re unlikely to find an Olympic dressage prospect at the local riding school. Read on to discover where to find your perfect partner

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Seeing a video first can save you a lot of time

The starting point

The internet is great if you know precisely the type and size of horse you want to buy. Type in ‘16.2hh skewbald eventer for sale’ for instance, and chances are you’ll find one. However, what the internet doesn’t do so well is surprise or inspire you. For that you are still better off with a magazine that’s stuffed full of classified ads. With hundreds of adverts for hundreds of horses from all kinds of sources, magazines like Horse Deals give you the chance to compare and contrast. They’re a clear guide to the buyer about what to expect for your money – and what might be available if you can stretch your budget a little further. Plus they’re also a chance to see a dealer’s stock all in one place. It’s why magazines such as Horse Deals are still thriving because they let you browse and discover the things you’d never have found with an online search. It’s like having all the notice boards of all the tack shops and all the dealers in one place every month.

Buying privately

uying from a horse’s owner is the most straightforward transaction and can often be the most secure way of finding the horse for you.

Pros

The seller knows the horse in detail and can tell you all of his virtues and vices. In short, you get a much more detailed picture of what you’re buying. An honest seller who loves their horse will tell you what to expect, even if they’re selling him because they’re having problems. Most will want their horse to go to a good home and so will be honest. Plus, you get to see the horse in his home environment where his behaviour is representative of how he normally is. You also get the chance to check out the horse’s stable for signs of damage, crib biting, etc, and may even be able to talk to other liveries on the yard about him. Private sale prices are much more negotiable than those at a dealer’s yard, and it may be possible to get tack, rugs, and bits and bobs thrown in with the deal. If you’re on a tight budget it’s the best way because the seller doesn’t have to make a profit or offer any kind of comeback if things go wrong. Plus a private seller, if local, might be willing to come over to your yard and help the horse settle in.

Cons

Your idea of a calm, well-behaved dressage prospect might be very different from someone else’s. They might be convinced that their horse is a £20,000 potential Burghley winner when you can plainly see he isn’t, which is frustrating when you’ve just driven miles to see him. This isn’t because they’re trying to deceive you – private owners have maybe three or four horses in their lifetimes, while a dealer sees more than that in a week, so private owners are less likely to be able to make a clear valuation. Viewing privately owned horses takes time. You are seeing one at a time and may be travelling a long way. Also, it’s easy to get caught up in the emotion of the seller’s story and end up with ‘rescue-dog syndrome’, where you want to buy the horse and give it a good home, just to make the seller happy.

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Buying from a dealer

ore choice, realistic pricing and less emotion. Buying from a dealer should be simple. Should be…

know Your rights

Pros

Dealers value a horse on set criteria, including his breeding, potential and temperament. This means prices should be consistent across the UK. Many dealers specialise in certain kinds of horse and plenty of them buy in from abroad, so they’ve done the hard work already and know what they’re talking about. You may also be able to bag a bargain with lots of potential as a competition horse, as many private owners overvalue their horses. Dealer horses should be vetted and legally you have comeback if something goes wrong. Also, horses at a dealer’s yard are ridden regularly, so often any problems that arise are sorted quickly. Some may take your current horse in part exchange, too. Most will be able to arrange delivery.

Cons

A dealer has no emotional connection to the horse and no real knowledge of how the horse behaves at a

Your rights under the Sale of Goods Act (that the goods purchased must be fit for the purpose they were sold for over a reasonable period of time) are the same whether buying a horse or a washing machine. Although, obviously, it may be harder to prove there’s a problem with an animal. But there have been cases where owners have successfully obtained a refund from dealers when something goes wrong. Put simply, it works like this. If the dealer tells you the horse has a problem or vice and you still buy it, then you have no comeback. But if they don’t mention the vice and something goes wrong, or your horse turns out to have an existing problem that renders him unfit for purpose, you have the right to return him, within a reasonable time, and ask for a refund. The definition of ‘reasonable time’ can be the stumbling block, as can the unique circumstances with a horse where progress and behaviour could be deemed to be down to the owner and trainer.

competition or in a normal everyday environment. To the dealer it’s just a commodity and all he wants is to sell as many horses as possible, for as much money as possible. Therefore, prices are less negotiable and there is unlikely to be tack or rugs, etc, available in the deal. Part exchange prices are likely to be low and 28-day exchange warranties are of limited value because it depends on the dealer having a suitable horse to swap your one for. Demo rides are likely to be with a very experienced rider, used to getting on all kinds of horses, which might not be representative of your abilities. Also, some unscrupulous dealers have been known to dope a lively horse.

What to do if it all goes wrong

When buying from a dealer always make sure you have a copy of their terms and conditions of sale. If not available in writing, make notes from a conversation. Keep printouts of the advert with the description of the horse and details of what he’s done, or claimed behaviour, etc. Make it clear to the dealer what you intend to use the horse for. That way, if you’re sold a dressage horse who turns out to be no good at dressage, you might have comeback under the Sale of Goods Act. If something goes wrong, make notes after any phone conversation, communicate everything in writing and keep copies of correspondence.

Buying from a dealer gives you access to several horses – all in one yard

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Auctions

Do you have the experience to deal with a young horse?

hey may be the bravest way to buy, but auctions can also yield the biggest bargains.

Pros

There’s a huge selection of horses for all sorts of prices. Everything is sold on one day so only those present can buy. If no-one else is interested in your choice of horse on that particular day you could go home with a bargain. Auctions vary widely, from the local sales where all sorts of horses will be on offer and you might be taking a big risk, to specialist auctions where only one type of horse is sold, vet reports are available and you can have a test ride. At auctions there will be a broad range of prices, reflecting the range of horses on offer.

Cons

Auction fever may lead you to pay more than you should – and don’t forget to allow for the auctioneer’s premium on top of the price. There’s no way of knowing how your auction horse will behave in the field or at a competition. Many auction horses are ex-racehorses, or fresh imports from Ireland or Europe – potentially a bargain for an experienced, confident rider, but could be a nightmare for a novice. You’ll need to be able to pay immediately and take the horse away on the same day. Some auctions might allow a couple of days for collection, but don’t count on it.

Photo: BRIGHTWELLS STARS OF THE FUTURE AUCTIONS AT ADDINGTON MANOR EC

Brightwells Equine Sales hold two main sales each year

Buying from a breeder

For a more specialist mount, you may end up going straight to the breeder. This is good for getting a cheap prospect, but expect a lot of work.

Pros

Young horses from breeders are (relatively) cheap for their breeding and potential, and are a blank sheet of paper ready to be moulded into your dream horse. Breeders have a reputation to maintain and are more likely to have an emotional and professional attachment to their horses.

Cons

Are you good enough to back a horse and instil the basics? Do you have the patience to live with the frustrations? What happens if your horse gets hurt before he ever realises his potential? Can you cope with a highly-strung youngster? You should be aware of the pitfalls before going down this route.

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A lot of top competition horses are bought from abroad

Buying horses from abroad

op class foreign competition horses bought direct from the breeder can save you a fortune – as long as you know what you’re doing.

Pros

European breeders have more stock available with the right pedigree and, if you buy at a time when exchange rates are good, you can get an exceptional horse for sensible money. You’ll see a big choice of horses, all in one place and easily accessible from many of the UK’s ports and airports.

Cons

Language and culture. Unless you’re a confident foreign language speaker,

DON’t FORGET

it might help to use an agent. Many foreign dealers speak good English and are comfortable dealing with UK buyers, but can you say the same? Many European horses are bred purely as a business. They might have the breeding but won’t necessarily have the stable manners or social upbringing of a UK horse. If something goes wrong, it will be harder to return a foreign horse and different countries might have different consumer protection laws, so you almost have to think of it as a private sale. Plus, the best bargains are the younger horses, and you have to decide if you’re the right person to back and bring on a young horse.

THERE ARE 1,000s OF HORSES FOR SALE EVERY MONTH IN PERFECT PARTNERS ♥ From the publishers of Your horse and horse deals magazines

How to take the stress out of buying your new horse and ensure you find the right one for you

PERFECT PARTNERS â&#x2122;Ľ From the publishers of Your horse and horse deals magazines

Your new horse will be a massive part of your social life, too

PERFECT PARTNERS â&#x2122;Ľ From the publishers of Your horse and horse deals magazines

o here comes the most exciting part of buying a horse – finding ‘the one’. Faced with hundreds of for sale ads, with a few descriptions that may be more fantasy than fact, it can be hard to know where to begin. But we’ve got plenty of advice to make sure your new perfect partner is just that – perfect.

Make a list of what you want before you look through the ads

First things first

A good starting point is to think carefully about which type of horse will suit you best. Is it young with potential, an older horse with experience or a schoolmaster in your chosen field, perhaps? Lots of factors will influence your decision, but the safest bet is to be honest with yourself about your riding ability, the facilities you’ll be able to offer your new horse, the amount of help you’ve got and the time you’ll have available for him. Time and time again instructors are faced with an unsuitable pairing, more often than not due to the rider being over-horsed. “The most important thing is that the horse is suitable for the rider’s stage of riding and aspiration,” explains show jumper and trainer Tom Davison. “Of course, everyone dreams of buying a horse who goes on to win at to get the pen and paper out again. top level, but if you want a happy and It’s essential you list everything enjoyable experience then it’s a that’s important to you about your new question of putting dreams to one side horse – height, age, ability, vice-free, and evaluating exactly what level and temperament, non-spooky, etc, and type of horse is best suited to you. vow to only look at horses who fit the “I’d always recommend riders book bill. Some things you may be able to a dismounted session with their compromise on (colour or age, for coach so a list of their current instance) but with others you strengths and weaknesses should stick to your guns can be made and a plan of Check you’re insured to (temperament and ability). action drawn up. It’s Every rider’s list will be ride the horses you’re essential that realistic and viewing. You may need to different but try to make achievable goals are set, take out a rider policy – sure you think of your insurers will bearing in mind that everything, no matter how advise you different people will need a trivial it may seem. different set of priorities. For Now it’s time to browse the example, if you have a stressful adverts. Be ruthless and only and demanding job, the last thing you circle the ones that look as though want is to be greeted by a stressy horse they’ll fit your ideal. It pays to read the at the weekend. You want a horse who adverts closely – don’t ever take what’s is easy to maintain and hassle free.” said as read and try to read between the lines. For example, if it says ‘forward going’ it could mean anything from fast to a bolter. Green is also an overused word. If he’s seven years old OK, so you know what type of horse and a bit green, does that mean he you want and you’ve got your budget lacks schooling or is he only just sorted. Now it’s time to start browsing backed? If the advert doesn’t mention for Mr Right. But before you reach for the good things you’d expect, such as the latest copy of Horse Deals, it’s time

FACT

Understanding ad speak

DON’t FORGET 14

moves straight or bombproof, ask yourself why. Also don’t forget to check the pictures match the description – you’ll be amazed at how many times they don’t.

Fact finding

Once you’ve narrowed down your search it’s time to make the call. Decide what you need to know about the horse at this stage, ie, what will make you go to see him. You can’t possibly find out everything over the phone but you can give the seller a good grilling, especially if it avoids a wasted journey. Be honest with the seller about what you’re looking for – if she’s got the interests of her horse at heart she’ll tell you if he’s suitable or not. Never over-inflate your abilities as it could prove downright dangerous, and try to assess the seller, too. Does she sound keen or cagey? Is she inconsistent? If you still like the sound of the horse, ask if you can see some video footage of him being ridden – your instructor will be able to watch it with you and help you decide if he’s worth a visit.

THERE ARE 1,000s OF HORSES FOR SALE EVERY MONTH IN

PERFECT PARTNERS ♥ From the publishers of Your horse and horse deals magazines

Ask to see the horse trotted up – as well as soundness you can assess his temperament

BE WARY OF

• The horse already being ridden when you get there • The horse feeling warm – has he been worked already? • Being asked to ring when you’re 20 minutes away • Any sellers who refuse to let you ‘drop in’ • Private sellers who don’t ride the horse themselves • The passport being mislaid with a promise it’ll be sent on

QUESTIONS TO ASK

• Does he have any vices? • Can he live out 24/7 or does he need to be in overnight? • When did the vet last see him – and why? • What’s he like when left in the field or stable alone? • Does he load and travel well, alone and with others? • Can he be clipped? • What’s he like for the farrier and dentist? • Has he ever kicked or bitten? • Can he be worked in company? • Does he hack alone and with others? • What bit is he ridden in and why? • Has he ever been lame? • How often does he need to be shod?

Make the viewing count It goes without saying that you should never buy a horse without trying him out first and it’s worth going to see a number of horses, rather than just one or two, so you can get a balanced picture of what’s available. Any seller worth their salt (private or dealer) will let you spend as much time as you want with your potential new horse and let you try him more than once, so be suspicious if they seem reluctant. If you can, it’s ideal to take your instructor with you as he’ll know what you’re capable of and be able to take a level-headed approach to the whole affair. If he can’t be there, video as much of the viewing as you can so you can show it to him later, or take him with you on a second viewing. Take a list of questions with you and ask them all – don’t let the seller fob you off with lack of time. Ask to see the horse in the field or stable first and then get someone to walk and trot him in-hand to check for any signs of lameness or conformational issues. Try to get an instant feel for the horse – does he let you rub his face and is he easy to handle, for instance? If all is promising so far, ask to see him being ridden. Always get the seller

Always ask to see the horse ridden before you get on

Don’t feel pressured with time – get to know him if you can

to ride first and only mount up yourself if you’re confident all is well. Never be pressurised into riding at a viewing, and if you don’t like what you see, walk away. Finally, make sure you try the horse out for all the things you want to do with him. So if you want to hack, take him for a hack. If you want to show jump, pop him over a fence or two.

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Time to get on board

Sealing the deal

Riding a potential new horse for the So you’ve found him – the perfect first time can be a little nervehorse for you. Now what? Most sellers wracking, especially when his owners will expect you to leave a deposit while are watching on. But there are things you’re waiting for the vetting to be you can do to make the whole process carried out. This should be refunded much easier – and even enjoyable! if something in the vetting stops you “When I try out a new horse, I like from buying him. Don’t forget this is to see him ridden by his regular rider the time to negotiate on price first,” says dressage trainer and inclusion of tack – leave Andrew Phazey. “I’m also it until after the vetting aware that, once on board, and it could be too late. the first two minutes are If he gets through the if the seller refuses the danger zone. Be ultra vetting with flying colours a vetting, walk away. careful and make sure, for and you’ve decided to It should go without instance, that the girth is buy him, don’t forget it’s saying but it’s easy to get carried away by tight and the stirrups the important to have a flashy horse right length before you get insurance in place before on so you don’t have to start you pick him up. This way, if fiddling about and put yourself in anything untoward happens on the a vulnerable position. journey home, you’re covered for any “Mounting is also a crucial time and veterinary attention required. See page I’d always play safe and make sure I 54 for more details on how to choose have someone holding the horse while the right company. I get on, even if there’s every chance all will be well. “Find out all you can about him before you get on – like should you carry a whip, use spurs, or is he cold backed – but be ready to use your common sense once you’re on board.” Andrew suggests you start the ride with lots of turns and circles in walk to see if the basics are all in place. “Remember you’re waiting for the ‘green light’ – relaxation of the horse’s back – before you start to do anything more taxing with him,” adds Andrew. “Keep the paces as boring as possible while you make your assessment. Have patience and ignore everyone watching. Keep the horse’s neck straight, your contact soft and even, and concentrate on maintaining a correct position yourself so that you get accurate feedback from the horse about his needs such as one-sidedness, stiffness, rhythm, balance – or all of the above. “Once you’re feeling comfortable with what you’re sat on you can start to test him out a bit more, but remember, you don’t need to do anything flashy. Above all, enjoy it. Even if the horse ultimately turns out not to be ‘the one,’ having the opportunity to ride a number of different horses can do wonders for your riding and confidence.”

FACT

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Keep it simple – you don’t have to try anything flashy

Talk any concerns through with your vet at the inspection

THE VETTING “It’s hugely important that any horse you intend to buy is vetted before you part with your money,” says equine vet Gil Riley. “This will tell you whether, on the balance of probabilities, the horse is or is not suitable for his intended purpose. So, for example, if you want to show jump, the vet will be able to tell you if he thinks the horse is physically capable and will give you some peace of mind.” No longer do horses pass or fail a vetting. Instead, the vet will tell you what he’s found and, through discussions with him, you’ll need to make up your own mind on whether or not to buy. There are two types of vetting – a two stage, where the horse is examined at rest and trotted up, and a much more in-depth five stage, which includes examination at rest, during and after exercise, and a blood sample, which can be tested within six months for banned substances should any problems arise. Expect to pay around £250 for a five stage. You’ll need to check with your insurance company if they’ve got any policies about which one you should have, but it’s widely thought that a five stage is preferable for peace of mind. Although the vetting doesn’t include any scanning (of tendons for instance) you can add this on if you want to – advisable if you’re buying a top end sports horse. Make sure you use your own vet, or if the horse is a distance away, use one recommended by the British Equine Veterinary Association – just make sure, for impartiality, that the one chosen is not the horse’s regular vet.

DON’t FORGET 20

Passports

All horses, ponies and donkeys need an equine passport, even if they never leave the field. This is to comply with an EU directive that aims to ensure horses who have been treated with medicines not authorised for use in food-producing animals cannot be slaughtered for human consumption. Anyone selling a horse without a passport is committing an offense. If this is the case with your potential purchase, do not proceed. If you do, you’ll be committing an offense by transporting him to his new premises. You’ve got 30 days to change the ownership on the current passport. For more information on passport law visit www.bhs.org.uk

Buying a horse with a vice

Crib-biting, windsucking, weaving and box walking are usually called ‘vices’ but are better described as stereotypies. The precise nature of stereotypies isn’t fully understood but the general school of thought is that horses do these things to reduce stress – although genetic, environmental and disease factors could play a part. Unfortunately, the behaviour often becomes progressively more habitual and untreatable as the horse matures – especially if the stress-free environment he craves isn’t available. Everyone has different opinions

about buying a horse with a known vice so the best advice is to speak to your vet about the horse and his needs.

Sarcoid advice

You’ve found a fabulous horse to buy – with one tiny sarcoid. The owner has knocked down the price but insurance will be a problem as sarcoids are excluded as a pre-existing condition. Given the unpredictability of the disease and the fact that treatment is likely to be expensive, prolonged and may need to be repeated throughout the horse’s life, is it wise to buy? Vet Nikki Brown advises: “We won’t necessarily advise against buying a horse with a small sarcoid – it depends where the lesion is and what the owner intends to do with the horse. But we do warn people that the tumours can grow in size and number and can be hard to treat. “A sarcoid that’s not bothered by tack shouldn’t affect the horse’s performance, but the difficulty lies in not knowing how the disease is likely to progress. Be cautious.”

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Choosing a yard Advice to help you find the perfect home for your new arrival

here’s no place like home, so the saying goes, and the same can be said of your horse’s yard. Whether it’s a competition stables with the very latest in hi-tech facilities or a friendly DIY set-up, finding the right place to suit your horse, your level of experience and your aspirations as a rider is at the core of a happy, successful partnership. Time spent researching local yards and chatting to riders at a similar level to you is hugely worthwhile.

So draw up a tick list of your ‘musthaves’ and ‘would-likes’ and start by ringing a few local yards to get a feel for which would be worth a visit. Ask yourself – do you get a good feel for the place over the phone? Do the yard owners appear willing to answer questions and offer a guided tour? If all seems promising, arrange to view the yard, preferably at a time when you would usually be there so you can get a feel for how busy the school is, etc.

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Ticking all the right boxes Depending on your circumstances there’ll be certain things you can compromise on – use of a school for instance – and others you can’t. So, when drawing up a tick list, consider the following points: • Is 24-hour turnout an option or is grazing limited? • Are horses turned out over winter? • Will your horse have access to a stable in the event of illness or injury? • Is there an arena and, if so, is the surface all-weather and well maintained? Also, is it well managed with regards to who can use it when? • Does the yard and fencing, etc, look well maintained and safe? • Does the yard have access to safe, off-road hacking? • Is it near a busy road that you’d be forced to hack along? • Is there an experienced person on hand who can offer to bring in and turn out your horse, etc, for a fee? • Are there sensible rules in place? • If you compete, are there others on the yard who do the same so you can share transport/training, etc? • Is the yard fully DIY or are there full- and part-livery options available? • Are you responsible for ordering in your own hay and bedding, etc? • Is there a friendly atmosphere?

If you’re inexperienced or nervous, moving your horse to a yard wit h the back-up of trained, knowledgeable staff who can offer advice will boost your con fidence

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Are you a DIY, part or full livery type? Livery yards can roughly be split into three main types – DIY, part and full. As its name suggests, at a DIY livery you’re expected to care for your horse and do the day-to-day work yourself. All yards vary but as a general rule you’ll get access to a stable, field, tackroom and feed/hay barn. DIY yards can be as basic as a farmer’s field, with no single person in charge and no formal yard rules, to larger, professionally run set-ups with staff on hand to turn out, rug up and feed, etc, should you be unable to get to the yard. They can be a great choice if you’re on a budget – prices in rural areas of the UK start at £15 per week. However, the smaller, more basic yards won’t suit you if you’re inexperienced and need the back-up of other more knowledgeable people at the yard, or are short of time and need extra help on a daily basis. Part livery allows you to care for your horse yourself for part of the week, but hand him over to someone else when time, family and work commitments muscle in on your time. Great for people who juggle busy lives, some part livery agreements enable you to ‘DIY’ at weekends and have your horse

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no legal requirement for While there is currently d, a list of BHS-approved livery yards to be license bsite – www.bhs.org.uk yards is available on its we n ‘find a livery yard’ the and ’ ing – look under ‘rid

looked after during the week – namely mucked out, turned out, fed, watered and groomed. Full livery is at the highest end of the price spectrum (monthly fees can rival a mortgage payment) but will ensure your horse is fully looked after – all you need to do is turn up and ride – and some yards will even exercise your horse for you. Great if you work hectic hours, you can be safe in the knowledge that your horse is in a regular routine no matter what you’re up to, but do your research carefully as you’re entrusting your horse’s care to someone else and it’s vital they do a good job. Above all, it’s important your yard offers the help, support and facilities you need, and this is such a personal thing only you can decide if it’s right for you. If you aspire to be a Grand Prix dressage rider there’s no point choosing a yard with no training facilities, and if you’re buying a youngster, a yard next to a busy main road is an accident waiting to happen. Compromises may have to be made, as no yard’s 100% perfect, but it’s important you make the right ones.

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If you’re home alone…

permission. For this reason, we find If you’re lucky enough to own land a lot of customers opt for one of our and plan to build your own stables, towable range of shelters; being there are some important points to movable, no permission is needed. remember before you grab the glossy “There are local differences to brochures and get carried away. consider too, such as National Parks While field shelters don’t usually or Conservation Areas, where just need planning permission as they’re about everything classed as needs permission, a temporary and regional structure, a block variations. For of stables will Check with your horse’s previous owners example, in the in most what bedding he’s stabled on and whether he has any allergies. Unwittingly Republic of Ireland circumstances – so moving a horse with a dust allergy into timber structures check with your a straw-filled stable next to the hay barn don’t need local planning isn’t a good idea! If it turns out your new planning department. horse needs any special bedding, such permission. But, “The most as dust-extracted shavings, stock up in in all cases, a call commonly used advance of his arrival and ask for a stable to your local method of away from hay and straw storage areas council office will avoiding the need keep you straight.” for planning and Planning permission will also be building warrant is to exercise your required if you’re thinking of installing permitted development rights,” say an arena. Depending on the authority, the experts at Saltire Stables in Fife you’ll need to provide a set of your (www.saltirestables.co.uk). existing and proposed plans, together “There are a couple of rules but, in with details of the construction, simple terms, you can erect a building drainage, fencing and details of within your own grounds of up to where the water run-off will be 30m 2 without any permission being directed, as well as samples of your required. This equates to a stable block proposed surface. or shelter that’s 30ft wide – ie, two If you go to a professional arena looseboxes and a tackroom, or an supplier they will be able to advise you 18ft x 18ft double garage. on the legal side and help you develop “However, in general terms, any the plans needed, so make this is one building that’s in a location for six of your key questions when choosing months or more needs to be a company to go with. considered as requiring planning

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Your ideal horse

Pic: Eric G Jones

Which one is right for you?

30 Show jumpers

43 Endurance horses

33 Youngsters

44 Child’s ponies

34 Dressage horses

46 Western horses

37 Showing horses

49 All-rounders

40 Eventers

52 Ex-racehorses

Show jumping star Scott Brash tells you what he looks for in a potential show jumper

hacking, Dressage, eventing, whatever – rn endura nce, weste a horse ed ne ’ll you o, you’re int . But you that can do the job for es uir req e lin each discip from the someth ing different perament, tem horse, whether it’s how do so – lity abi breeding or y the right bu you e sur ke ma you page is a one? Well turning the 16 pages got ’ve we as rt good sta to help ice of great buying adv r ideal you on s nd ha you get your cipline. dis r you ver ate wh horse p you right Our experts will kee sta rts here. rch sea r on track – you

The pluses – and minuses – of buying a young horse plus advice from vet Gil Riley on what to look for Claire Lilley and Carl Hester’s advice on what makes a great dressage horse – what more can you ask for! If you want a horse to show, then follow our advice on what to look for in a horse who’ll catch the judge’s eye International event rider and trainer Kate Walls helps with finding a horse who can cope with three disciplines!

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So you want a horse who’ll keep you company for hours at a time – our guide will tell you what to look for Jane Beswick shares her years of experience in matching suitable ponies with children

Western riding is growing in popularity – but what makes a good horse for this exciting discipline? How to find the equine gold that is a good all-round horse you can enjoy doing a bit of everything with Karen Dixon advises on the important things to look for if you want to give an ex-racer a new chance in life

You’ll find top care advice in every issue

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Show jumpers

othing competes with the buzz of jumping a horse who is eager yet careful over the fences. It feels fantastic. The opposite is also true – if he’s not careful and needs a lot of persuading, and only just makes it, jumping can be anything but fun – although it’s always a challenge. Show jumping is a very popular sport with classes for all abilities, shapes and sizes. Show jumping star Scott Brash talks us through what he looks for in a potential show jumper.

The horse must jump!

What really matters with a show jumper is his ability to leave the fences up, and some of the world’s best horses were not specimens of perfection. No one would argue with that, but if you’re buying a young show jumper or unbroken prospect, choosing one with good conformation will stand you in good stead in the long run. Look for a horse with a leg in each corner and powerful quarters with well made hocks – this is what’s

going to get him off the ground, especially as the fences get higher. Let your trainer and vet help you decide if something with a conformational fault is worth pursuing. It goes without saying that a good, trainable brain is also very important, as you want him to have a good attitude to his work, especially if he’s aiming for the higher levels of competition. It’s vital you choose a jumper who suits your individual circumstances as some will need more riding than others – for instance, some show jumpers can be very strong and are more suited to male riders. Assess your abilities carefully and honestly, and buy accordingly.

Spotting potential

If the horse comes confidently down to a fence with his ears pricked, backs himself off and forms a perfect arc over it with his feet picked up, you have to think he’s probably a good one. If, on the other hand, he needs encouraging to the fence and jumps flat with dangling forelegs, he

might not be destined for life with you as a show jumper. If you’re buying an unbroken horse, ask to see him loose jumped. You’ll be able to assess if he’s got a naturally good style or if, for instance, he tends to dangle a foreleg. You’ll need to decide though, if any of the problems you see are correctable through good training and correct muscling, as you don’t want to miss out on a potential star based on something quite small. How the horse moves will also help you assess his ability. It doesn’t really matter if he moves straight or not, but look for one who moves from the elbow in front and from the hips behind, not from the knee or stifle, as freedom of movement usually translates into the ability to pick up over fences. When looking at his paces, it’s the canter that’s important, as very rarely are show jumping classes won by a horse who’s trotted around. The canter should be rhythmical and forward with an ability to lengthen and shorten easily.

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See if your horse matches up to the ideal show jumper

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The research

A study carried out in 1970, the first one of its kind, highlighted the ideal conformation for a successful show jumper: • Longer than average from stifle to hock is good • Longer than average forearms are also good, enabling the front legs to be picked up easier • The length of the cannon bone has no effect on ability • A longer neck is an advantage, giving the horse better balance • The length of back has no impact

Popular breeds

The Belgian and Dutch Warmblood breeds are still immensely popular on the show jumping circuit although in recent years the French and Germans have also produced a fair number of good show jumpers. Don’t rule out an Irish horse either – some are proving to be very useful indeed.

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What the Whitakers say

Show jumping legend John Whitaker knows a thing or two about show jumpers. “To be honest, conformation isn’t really important to me,” he explains. “The first thing I look for is jumping ability. You see lots of horses around with ‘bad’ conformation who are jumping and lasting well. The only real reason to worry about conformation is because, if it’s very bad, the horse is less likely to stay sound long-term. If the horse is really talented but not well put together I’d weigh up the pros and cons and then make a decision. It’s often harder for amateur riders to make this sort of judgement but their vet should be able to help.”

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Young horses Take an experienced friend with you so you’re not swayed by a pretty face!

TOP TIP

It’s worth going to a specialist stud or dealer. You’ll be able to see lots of young horses in one place and they’ll help you get it right

he number of people buying young horses is on the up. For many it’s the only way of affording a quality horse – ready made competition horses aren’t cheap – while others just enjoy the challenge of bringing a horse on themselves. But of course, buying young horses poses more of a risk, especially if they’re not yet being ridden as you don’t know how he’ll turn out and whether or not, as an adult horse, you’ll still like him. Our top tips will help keep you on track. The first thing to think about is what you’re looking for in your future horse – and choose a youngster most likely to turn into your dream. What temperament do you want him to have, what work will he need to do, how big

like your In the end you have to much your how r tte ma No ter. ngs you rates the al sion fes pro er oth trainer or h your wit go ial, horse and his potent ’t click with him, don you If . ling fee gut then walk away

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does he need to be fully grown, etc. Then take a look at his breeding. Many breeds have recognised breeding lines that produce horses with similar traits. Although it’s no guarantee your young man will turn out the same, it may give you a good indication as to his future. For instance, some sires are known for producing sharp horses who often turn out to be professional rides, while other pass on their calm outlook on life and are ideal for ambitious amateurs. Ideally you should take someone experienced with young horses with you to viewings, especially if it’s a particularly young horse you’re looking at. They should be able to assess the his potential based on his conformation, temperament, movement and breeding. Remember that some very gangly looking young horses turn into stunning swans as they mature – so don’t judge the horse just on his looks alone. Vet Gil Riley knows all about spotting potential. He recommends you: • Investigate the youngster’s dam and sire closely. Why was the mare bred

from – was she retired due to poor performance or because she became lame? If it was the latter, was it because of conformational faults that could have been passed on? • If you can, visit the parents to see if you like how they look. Ask about their performance history and check if they come close to the levels you aspire to get to • Take a good look at the youngster. Do you like him and are there any obvious conformational issues – for example, are the forelegs straight, are the front feet of similar size and shape? • Are the hindlimbs of good conformation, as they will be bearing a lot of the weight during training. Avoid horses with the common defect of sickle hocks, as it could contribute to hock arthritis and/or suspensory ligament damage in future years • Have a thorough vetting. If the youngster is only one or two years old, a two-stage vetting is usually sufficient. If he’s older than this then go for a five-stage • To check out a horse’s breeding have a look at www.allbreedpedigree.com

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Dressage horses Look for a compact horse with a naturally uphill conformation

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ith the explosion in popularity of dressage as a sport we ask International dressage star Claire Lilley what she looks for when buying a horse

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DON’t FORGET 34

Horses for courses

Watch any local dressage competition and you’ll see a whole host of different horses fighting it out for top spot – cobs, Friesians, ponies… they’ll all be there. It’s true that most horses, given the correct training, can be competitive at Preliminary and Novice level, but if you’re aiming for greater things than this, then look for a horse bred for the job. The most popular breed in the dressage world is the Warmblood, which is a term used to describe a group of horses that generally originate from Europe, although British Warmbloods are becoming more popular. Don’t rule out a Thoroughbred/Warmblood cross, though, as this gives you a clever, quick brain, plus the movement you need. Trakehners are intelligent horses and Spanish horses like the Lippizaner love learning, so they’re worth looking at, too.

Temperament

We need to talk about temperament. The dressage horse must be easy to train and want to work with you. Some top quality horses are very hot and can prove to be a handful, particularly in the hands of anyone less than a pro. If you haven’t got the time or

d for the Buy a horse who’s bre for the top aim to job if you want

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experience for a horse who needs lots of work, who is challenging or is very excitable, then you need to look for one who’s easier – it has to be a partnership; a friendship almost. Because many top riders have sharp horses, don’t be fooled into thinking this is what you need in order to do well – it’s not true. You’ll do much better with a horse you feel comfortable on and can work with and train easily, than one who may have all the presence in the world but you struggle to ride.

The ideal picture

The dressage horse should be a picture of athleticism and harmony and as supple as a ballerina. You’ll have a head start if you buy one who has a good, free-moving shoulder and a well set on head and neck, as he should find working into a contact easier. Horses who are croup high may find it more difficult to engage their back end so it’s preferable to find one who is built

to be for ward A dressage horse needs iastic hus ent going and have an should be He rk. wo his to ch approa be careful but – ted res alert and inte vousness ner h not to confuse this wit

Dressage star Carl Hester shares his experience “One of the most important things to look at is the walk,” explains Carl. “It’s very difficult to change a horse’s basic walk so he needs a naturally good one. He should have a good overtrack where the hindleg comes through and lands a couple of hoof prints over from where the front foot was.” Carl points out that the dressage movement of free walk is scored double in a test, which is one of the reasons a good walk is vital. “If you’re buying a young or inexperienced horse, don’t worry if the trot and canter don’t look special as expression can be added through correct training. What I ‘uphill’ with his withers higher than his croup. Buy the best conformation you can and take particular note of the quality of his feet. Avoid horses with hocks that bow out, a very long back, a thick set jaw or one who’s pigeon toed at the back. Some conformational defects can be overcome by good training – so find someone experienced to advise you.

Movement

Look for a horse who moves freely from the shoulder and has a natural rhythm to his stride. Also look for: • A good walk with a four-time beat

look for is attitude. A horse destined for the top needs to be sensitive and reactive. “I always prefer to ride hot horses that you have to hold back rather than push on, but I know this isn’t for everyone, especially the amateur rider who is juggling her horse with her lifestyle. “It pays to be realistic. The hot, sensitive horse may have all the potential in the world, but if the rider can’t handle him or is worried about riding on a day-to-day basis, then it’s never going to work. Be realistic about your abilities and buy a horse accordingly – and have some fun.” and a clear overtrack • A powerful trot with a two-time beat and a good overtrack in working trot. Look for natural cadence and rhythm. The knees and hocks should move freely and the whole picture is one of looseness and elasticity • A canter that has a clear three-time beat and is balanced and united with hocks that reach well under the body and carry the weight of the horse easily. Look for a good moment of suspension when all four feet are off the ground before the next stride • An overall impression of lightness and regularity

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Show horses

hink of showing and the image that instantly springs to mind is one of perfectly turned out, gleaming, well mannered horses. Show horses come in all types,

shapes and sizes, but the thing that ties them together is that to be successful they have to be as near perfect as possible. Read on for our essential advice

Should be in proportion and pleasing on the eye. In certain classes the head will have to conform to rules for the horse’s type, so check the rule book. The judge will look at the way the head is set on the neck and he’ll want it to lend the horse some presence

to buying a horse for showing. But always remember – good conformation plays a major part in the show horse and is the one thing you should never ignore when searching for your horse.

Should be nicely muscled and come out from a well-shaped wither. It will have a good topline and not have an over-developed bottom line. The neck should not be set on too low. The way the neck arches is a crucial factor as this will help with the overall impression

The back should be strong, in proportion and well muscled on either side of the spine; the quarters strong, rounded and well muscled on top and between the hindlegs. From behind, the view should be strong and well-balanced Should be nicely sloping and have plenty of movement. From the front there should be some width between the front legs

It’s the amount of bone that decides which classes the horse can enter (measured just below the knee). The knees should be strong and flat with the limbs coming out straight, both above and below. Cannons should be short, hard and flat, with well defined tendons. The pastern should gently slope, with flat fetlock joints

This should be rounded and well proportioned, and the shoulders, body and quarters should all join up together to give a nice overall picture. The ribs should be well sprung and rounded, giving the horse ‘depth’ or ‘girth’

Need to be well shaped and in good condition. Don’t automatically discount horses with small issues with movement such as a slight dish, but discuss them with your farrier, as he may be able to help

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horse, study his When buying a show as this is a sure , ord rec on titi pe com od he’ll be indication of how go

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Measure up

Some classes require you to have a current height certificate for your horse – these include cob classes, small hunters, large and small hacks, and large and small riding horses. If the horse you’re looking at is a youngster and up to height already, he probably won’t be eligible once he’s finished growing, so be aware of this if you want him for these classes. Where height limits apply, the rule book will state an upper and lower limit – so check before you buy that he’s the right height. Do check with the appropriate showing association if you’re at all unsure – they’ll be pleased to help.

Manners please

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Never underestimate the importance of temperament in a show horse. He may look the part and have all the presence in the world, but if he misbehaves in the ring he’ll be at the bottom of the line no matter what, or even asked to leave the ring if he’s been really bad! Finding a horse who has a nice, calm temperament and lots of patience, but still has the sparkle to catch the judge’s eye, should be your top priority. If you can, check out your potential new horse at a show. This will give you the best indication of how his manners hold up in the excitement. Although you want him calm, he shouldn’t be sluggish or disinterested. While waiting in the line-up for his turn to show off to the judge, he must stand quietly but not fall asleep. He also needs to be the kind of horse who’s OK with other people riding him as, for some classes, he’ll be taken through his paces by a riding judge and it certainly is not de rigueur for him to be bucked off!

DON’t MISS 38

society will have Each individual showing eral advice gen for its own website, but rg se.o hor ow hsh ritis w.b visit ww

On the move

Although not the first thing the judge looks for, movement plays a big part in the overall picture of the show horse. Good movers can move up several placings, compensating for minor conformation defects. Rhythm of stride and straightness is what counts so make sure you scrutinise any potential purchase closely.

Ignore at your peril

No matter how lovely the horse, there are times when you’ll need to walk away. This relates very much to conformational faults. So if the horse has any of the following, just say no. • Curbs, spavins and obvious ringor side-bones • Cow hocks, sickle hocks, club foot, contracted heels, crooked legs and any obvious signs of unevenness • Splints that interfere with the action of the horse • A roached or dipped back • Ewe or very short neck • Severe dishing, plaiting, a foot turned in, swinging a leg or legs being too close. Unless any of this can be rectified by a farrier, they will cause real issues for a show horse • Major blemishes such as scars are also frowned upon so look carefully for anything unusual at the viewing

Clever use of tack and show make-up can work wonders in disguising minor conformational defects and blemishes.

You’ll find top care advice in every issue

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Event horses

venting is often described as the biggest challenge for horse and rider. Certainly on paper it seems as if you’re asking the impossible to find a horse who can do three different disciplines well. International event rider and trainer Kate Walls is on hand with advice on how to buy an eventer.

lack the ability to find that ‘extra leg’ to get themselves and their rider out of trouble, and bounces and short distances can also be tricky. If you’re aiming at Intro, Pre-Novice or Novice level then the breed of horse isn’t as important and you’ll probably get away with some slight conformational faults. Temperament and the willingness to be trained are vital in eventing at all levels and should be your first priority when choosing a horse. Look for one with a kind eye and who is alert and interested in his surroundings. Watch him being led from the stable – is he keen and raring to go or sluggish and uninterested? If it’s the latter, there’s a chance this will translate into his ridden work.

Soundness rules

What to look for

An event horse has to be calm and obedient for dressage, bold as a lion and a clean jumper for cross-country, and supple and careful for the show jumping. With all these requirements it’s inevitable that there’ll be some compromise, but the one thing you shouldn’t compromise on is soundness – and you should always look for a horse with as good a conformation as possible. However, many older, experienced event horses are by no means perfect when it comes to conformation or movement – you only need to watch the trot up at Badminton or Burghley to see this. Checking out his competition record will help you assess his abilities in the face of imperfections. Also discuss any issues fully with your vet before you make a decision – he’ll be able to advise you on how the faults could affect the horse’s future competition success and help you make the decision to buy or not.

Look for a horse with the best conformation you can find. The important things to consider are: • His walk should demonstrate the

same qualities as that of a dressage horse so make sure he has a good swing to his walk and a big overtrack • The trot doesn’t need to be flashy or have massive cadence but it should show freedom and a good rhythm, and the horse needs to be able to lengthen his stride. He will cover the ground well and move with elasticity • A balanced and loose canter is essential, as is the ability to lengthen and shorten his stride, so he can achieve the collection and agility needed to tackle modern cross-country courses. The stride must be fluent and ground-covering • The gallop is an important pace in eventing and the horse should be able to gallop with ease. A horse who is sluggish or one who pulls will waste far too much energy – his and yours – so look for a horse who gallops effortlessly. Some horses need a bit of help with gallop if it’s not something they’ve been trained to do An event horse needs to be supple and careful over show jumps and brave across country

A good rider can have se’s success than more influence on a hor finding the right breeding alone, so it’s l cia cru t’s tha partnership

What type for you?

In top level eventing, full or nearly-full Thoroughbreds are still the breed of choice. Some riders are now opting for TBs mixed with a bit of foreign blood to improve the horse’s movement – vital with the dressage phase being much more influential than it was. Although size isn’t important, many eventers choose smaller horses over big ones as longer striding horses can

DON’t MISS 40

VETTING COSTS

If buying an experienced event horse, it can pay to have a full sports horse vetting, which will include X-rays of the feet, hocks, back and stifles, and sometimes scanning of the tendons. Expect to pay around £1,000 for this

You’ll find great exercises in every issue to improve your riding, whatever your discipline

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As well as being brave, the event horse needs to be able to alter his stride during combinations her colleague Piggy Our expert Kate Walls and ncy using their age se French run a sports hor tch potential ma to ts tac con and se experti ses – visit www. owners with the right hor .uk frenchexchangehorses.co

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When looking for your potential event horse, beware any who are long in the back, are straight in the hindleg, have long pasterns or who are upright in the feet.

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Endurance horses

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Pic: Eric G Jones

Does type matter?

There’s no denying the statistics – look at the results of the major endurance rides the world over and you’ll see that most of the horses in the top 10 are either pure-bred Arabs or have a large percentage of Arab blood. Arabs make good endurance horses as they generally have fine skin and coats (useful for stopping them overheating), lean muscle, good feet and a cardiovascular system able to cope perfectly with the sport. They have great stamina, agility and cover the ground easily. For non-competitive pleasure rides and the shorter competitive distances, horses of all shapes and sizes can have fun and minor conformation faults don’t really matter – as long as your horse can cover up to 20 to 30 miles over differing terrain and stay sound.

No foot no horse

Competitive rides are anything from 20 to 100 miles upwards – and the horses don’t hang about. They need to tackle stony tracks, gravel, cobbles, grass, concrete – the whole lot. To be able to this and stay healthy, it’s imperative you find a horse with the best feet possible. Don’t buy a horse with conformationally incorrect feet, as even with good farriery they may always be a weakness in the overall picture. Look for: • Back feet and front feet that are conformationally in pairs • Feet that look outwardly healthy • If he has rings on his hooves it could indicate problems with laminitis in the past, so be careful • Is the heel/toe axis correct? It should be more or less parallel with the angle of the pastern • A strong, healthy frog is a must • The soles of his feet should be concave as flat feet will be more easily bruised

Balance is key

Endurance horses need to be well balanced – on long rides he’s not worked on the bit so has to carry and balance himself with no help from his rider. Look for a horse with a leg at

each corner and for a neck that isn’t set too low on the withers as this could encourage him onto his forehand and unbalance him. At the viewing see him turned out if possible – if he can canter around, changing legs as he turns, then he’s probably balanced enough.

Good for unruly horses

There are many stories of horses condemned as ‘problem’ horses who have gone on to shine at endurance. It appears that these little hotheads thrive on the work involved in getting fit for a long distance ride and the excitement of competing. So if you find the perfect specimen who just happens to be a little more of a handful than you hoped, don’t say no straight away. Take advice from an instructor and more experienced endurance rider before making your decision.

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Child’s pony You need to trust the pony with your child, so make sure he’s the right one

w.pcuk.org visit The Pony Club at ww

good pony is worth his weight in gold. Jane Beswick has been matching suitable ponies with children for many years. Here she tells us what to consider when buying a small four-legged friend

the here and now

One of the most common issues when it comes to buying a pony is the parents being too ambitious, thinking too much about the future and not sticking with the present. All too often, parents ask for something that their child can ‘learn on’ so that in a couple of years’ time they’ll be (hopefully) flying high. However, children don’t generally do looking to the future and so this can be a time wasting strategy with the result being that they’re over-horsed. It’s far better to buy something that the child can ride and enjoy straight away with a view to changing the pony as she gets more experience and ability – don’t aim too high too soon.

DON’t MISS 44

Temperament

By far the most important thing about any potential pony is his temperament. Ponies can be cheeky enough as it is, so look for one who’s biddable, accepting, inquisitive, willing to learn and trainable. A calm outlook is a must and, of course, the child has to like him.

Rider’s ability

With children it’s even more vital to be honest about their ability. Safety is a major factor and you’ll want to find something you can trust and that your child can handle. Sometimes, what the parents think their child wants is a million miles from reality, so it pays to sit down with an instructor and highlight exactly what the new pony needs to be. It’s harder for children to work through issues and to see that the end result could be fine so it’s best not to start with the issues in the first place. Don’t be annoyed if the seller makes the decision that this particular pony is not right for your child – it’s

safer all round and allows you to move on to something more suitable.

Try more than once

Any pony seller worth their salt will want to make sure that child and pony are as near perfect for each other as possible. Ask to see the pony more than once as children often feel overawed at the first viewing – sometime it pays to go back later the same day. On the second viewing they’ll be more confident about the pony and won’t feel quite so intimidated about being watched. If the seller doesn’t want you to go back, be wary about buying.

Follow up

To make sure your child gets the best start with her new pony, ask the seller if they offer any follow up. Perhaps they could help the pony settle in, be there when your child first rides him or accompany the pair on their first hack. Good sellers will keep in touch until they’re confident all is well.

for The best riding and care advice in every issue

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Western horses Western horses need a natural head carriage, strength and good balance

its name The Quarter Horse got any other n -ru out can because it a mile breed over a quarter of

ee Rutter and Andrew Plant from Oakridge Quarter Horses give us the low-down on what makes a good Western horse There are two main disciplines in the world of competitive western riding – reining and pleasure riding. However, the two things that bind them together is that, for the most part, the Quarter Horse dominates the field. Of course, any horse can be trained in the western style and for non-breed association pleasure riding classes, any breed or type can enter. But competitive riders need to specialise to be successful. Quarter Horses are heavily muscled, compact horses and, although not big at around 15.2hh, are weight carriers. The most important thing when buying is to look for a Quarter Horse with a good temperament and willingness to work and be trained. Ideally he should be quiet and reliable. The horse’s history, bloodlines and show records will indicate what you can expect from the horse, but it’s always useful to take someone along with you who’s an expert in the field to help you assess the horse fully. As with all sports horses, conformation is important. When 46

buying a Quarter Horse, look for one with very correct legs as, during competitions – particularly reining – their legs and joints come under considerable stress. A level topline and good, strong feet are also desirable, as is good overall balance in the body. Horses destined for reining need powerful hindquarters to hold their position in sliding stops and rollbacks, and also need excellent agility and co-ordination for spinning and executing flying changes. A Western pleasure horse needs to deliver a pleasurable ride, showed through his responsiveness, willing attitude and easy way of moving. He should have smooth, steady relaxed gaits and a natural head carriage. Judged as a show class, it’s vital that a pleasure horse has near-perfect conformation. He’ll be asked to work in a ring with other horses, too, so look for a horse who’s happy in company. He should also be quick off the aids as he’ll need to respond quickly to changes of gait and direction, as and when the judge calls out instructions. For more on western riding visit www.aqha.uk.com For more about Lee and Andrew visit www.oakridgequarterhorses.co.uk

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All-rounders

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All-rounders are the Jack of all trades competent at most things and fun to be around. There are hundreds for sale at any one time. Here’s how to get your hands on a good one.

veryone needs some fun in their lives and owning a good all-rounder or leisure horse could be just the thing if you want to have a go at a bit of everything. From hacking to drag hunting, from endurance to eventing – they’ll give anything a shot and reliable ones are like the proverbial gold dust. Most are slightly older with a ‘been there done it’ t-shirt, but mature, sensible younger horses can also be great all-rounders.

He’s the sort of animal many riders are looking for so demand for good all-rounders is high. Lots of them sell by word of mouth through riding or pony clubs or local tack shops, so it’s worth putting the word out that you’re looking for one. Because there are so many for sale every week, you need to scrutinise every advert carefully and ask a myriad of questions when you call for more information – there are plenty around that won’t fit your bill so be clear what it is you want.

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Your all-rounder will want to be good on his own in wide, open spaces

y your ideal Be prepared to modif or colour, for a ed bre as h suc ’ pe ‘ty fun to be with horse who is safe and

What to look for

Breed and type are not really important with an all-rounder. What is vital, though, is that you like him and that he’ll do the things you want him to do. All-rounders come in many shapes and sizes including cobs, Thoroughbreds, crosses and excompetition schoolmasters. It goes without saying that correct conformation is preferable but don’t by any means rule out those who aren’t quite perfect. Depending on what you want to do with him there’s every chance that a conformational default won’t affect him too much (for instance, if you just want him for hacking) so don’t be worried to ask your vet for advice. You’ll want your all-rounder to be good in all the usual ways – hack alone and in company, and a saint in the stable, for instance – but he may need to go the extra mile, especially if you’ve got children you’re sharing him with. Will he tolerate endless grooming, the children scrabbling on bareback, terriers round his legs? You certainly don’t want him to have any vices – rearing, kicking, napping and bucking are not to be tolerated and he needs to be steady enough for a quite hack down the country lanes, but speedy enough to challenge the local cross-country course – but brakes and manners are a must, of course.

Flash the cash

One thing is for certain, all-rounders aren’t cheap – even when the rest of the market is flat the price for Mr Perfect tends not to waiver. A browse through the ads in Horse Deals reveals that these ‘good to catch, box, shoe and hack’ horses start at around £3,000 but whiz up to £5,000 once you start looking for one who’s also good looking and has a bit of presence. If you then add in a successful Riding Club competition record or any kind of future potential and you’re quickly looking at more than £10,000.

Subscribe to Horse Deals and get your copy before it hits the shops – see www. greatmagazines.co.uk for more information

DON’t MISS 50

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great advice for your horse every issue

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Ex-racehorses

isit any yard and you’re odds on to meet an ex-racehorse. Former Olympic event rider and now ex-racehorse trainer Karen Dixon shares with us the important things to consider when buying a horse from the track

a rider who doesn’t use the reins for balance. This will unnerve him and may make him tricky to control initially, as he’ll associate contact on the reins with going faster as taught to him during his racing days – so the more you pull, the faster he’ll go. You’ll need to have a good dose of patience, too, as retraining an ex-racehorse takes time and you shouldn’t expect instant results. The best thing to do is have a plan – decide what you can offer, how much time you’ve got and what you want to do with your new ex-racer, then find one who fits the bill.

The important things Think about yourself

The one thing that ex-racehorses need is a confident rider and one who’s experienced in training horses, even if this is the first ex-racehorse you’ve had. Horses fresh off the track are sensitive souls and you’ll need to be

DON’t MISS 52

The first thing to look for is a horse with a good temperament. Ex-racers can be little stress-heads so finding one who’s got the ability to be calm is a real plus. Check out his eyes – are they big and kind looking? If so, there’s a likelihood that he’s a genuine chap. A trainable brain is vitally important

as you’re going to be turning his little world upside down as far as training goes – you’ll be asking him to forget everything he knows and start all over again – so he’ll need to have the personality to deal with this. Conformation wise, check out his feet, as Thoroughbreds can struggle in this department. Strong, concave feet are what you want – don’t go for anything with really flat feet. Also avoid a horse who’s too long in the back or has sloping pasterns, pronounced splits or curbs.

Viewing an ex-racehorse There are many places to buy an ex-racehorse, but the sales and straight from the trainer’s yard are the two most popular. Buying from the sales is probably the most common and although you can get a real cracker of a horse for a bargain price, you need to have your wits about you if you do go down this route. You’ll get little

If you need help with your new horse, send your queries in to the your horse Q&A team for expert advice

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An ex-racer will associate contact with speed, so you need gentle hands

Retraining takes time and patience, but can be extremely rewarding

A Nathe straight bar sna ffle is a good bit to start an ex-raceho rse in. If he’s prone to getting his ton gue over the bit (common initially) the n try a ported barrel cheek bit

time to assess the horses at the sales so, if you can, take someone with you who is knowledgeable about retraining racehorses. Your best bet is to collar the stable lad who’s been responsible for his day-to-day care and training. He’ll be able to tell you how the horse is in the stable, what sort of routine he’s had, whether he’s got any vices, how he is to handle, whether he’s used to being turned out, if he’s ever been lame, etc. Don’t be afraid to ask as many questions as you can – chances are he’ll want to see his charge find a good home too. Viewing at a trainer’s yard is a bit different as you’ll at least be able to assess the horse in his own environment. Take your time over the viewing and ask the staff and trainer as much as you can. One of the basic but important things to ascertain is how the jockeys get on. It’s amazing how many ex-racehorses have an issue with mounting as they’re used to their riders just being thrown on as they’re led past.

See the horse move – on the flat and over poles, ridden and in-hand, if possible. The horse may not be ready training wise for you to ride him but do if you can. One top tip is to not let the horse out of your sight – watch him being tacked up, led around, mounted, etc. In the absence of being able to give him a good try out under saddle, this is the best option for assessing his abilities and temperament. His stable will also be a bit of a giveaway – are there teeth marks on the doors, kick marks on the wall, etc, which could indicate a stressy character?

First steps

You’ll need lots of time with your new horse and you mustn’t be in a hurry to get on board. First have his teeth, back and tack checked, and worm him straight away. If he can handle it, give him as much time out in the field as you can. Spend a week or so lungeing him in just a bridle, including over trotting poles. Then add the saddle and gradually raise the poles – this will help him use his back more effectively and encourage him to lower his head. Remember that the initial work is all about him building the correct muscles for ridden work and getting his head in gear after the hectic life he’s led. A Pessoa lungeing aid can be particularly helpful for encouraging him to work correctly so, if he’s calm enough, give one a try. If he’s lunged successfully and he’s calm and accepting, then it’s time to mount up. Remember, though, this is only the start of his education – get some help from an instructor or experienced rider if you’re unsure.

TO FILL???

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Buying a horse is a huge expense and we all want to save a few pennies where we can, but it pays not to scrimp on insurance

find the best It pays to ring round to e cover as par com ays deal – and alw er the same off all well as price, as not

Good insurance means you don’t have to worry about vet bills

Be prepared

One thing’s for certain when dealing with horses and that’s their ability to throw a spanner in the works by way of injury or illness when you least need it. Insurance might seem like an expense you could do without, but the peace of mind it gives when something goes wrong is priceless. Make sure you’ve got your insurance in place before you bring your new horse home and then, in the unlikely event that he injures himself on the way, you’ll be covered. The key is to go with a reputable company, preferably an equestrian specialist staffed by people who understand horses and have the empathy to help and support you when you need to make a claim. As with all things, you get what you pay for, and the cheaper option may turn out to be a false economy when you go to make a claim and discover you’re not fully covered or the service is poor.

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Insurance questions to ask

•A sk friends who they use and who they’d recommend • Be sure what cover you need before ringing for a quote – loss of use, vet fees, etc • What’s the excess? • What age will the horse be insured up to? • A re alternative treatments covered too? • What’s the limit for vet fees? • What activities are covered – dressage, hacking, eventing, etc? • What type of security does your tack room need in order to get your tack insured? • A re there any exclusions? • In the event of injury are any sundries covered – livery fees for box rest, etc? • Is the price of diagnostics such as MRI scanning covered?

Insurance and vetting

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DON’t FORGET 54

A pre-purchase examination is likely to be needed as part of the terms of your cover. There are two types of pre-purchase examination – a full five-stage vetting or a more limited two-stage vetting. Each insurance company is likely to have different requirements – for instance if your horse is to be insured for more than £5,000, Petplan Equine requires a 5 stage certificate.

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New beginnings

The moment your horse sets foot off the ramp at his new home is a milestone moment. hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how to help him settle in and make sure his first few hours, days and weeks are as stress-free as possible 56

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Moving home can be an unsettling experience, but there are steps you can take to make your horse’s homecoming stress-free

uying a new horse may be as exciting as it is nerve-wracking, but spare a thought for the four-legged ‘new boy’ who’s still ensconced in his old field, happily unaware of the disruption he’s going to face when your lorry turns up to collect him. Moving home is a challenge for all

horses but add a new, slightly anxious owner into the mix, as well as a new regime and new fieldmates, and it’s no surprise that the placid, chilled horse you went to view looks a tad wild-eyed when he arrives.

TOP TIP

Of course, how your horse handles the experience depends very much on his temperament, but there’s lots you can do to ensure his homecoming is as stressfree an experience as possible.

Remember your horse is an individual, so try to forget your previous horse’s foibles and pay attention to your new arrival’s body language and what he’s trying to tell you

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Routine matters

Turn a new horse out into a field of nosey companions and chances are he’ll find it incredibly stressful – plus you risk him being kicked or bitten. Instead, try to arrange for him to be turned out on his own at first in a safe, well-fenced paddock, where he can chat to neighbouring horses over the fence – but escape if he wants. If you feel he’ll settle better with company, choose a quiet, amicable companion who can be trusted not to start a fight. And if yard policy dictates that new horses have to be stabled for 24 hours, a stable in view of other horses in a quiet area of the yard is ideal. Above all, when it comes to making your horse’s homecoming run as smoothly as possible, the key is to find out as much as you can about his previous routine and try to replicate it.

and ensure his To help your horse settle et, it’s vital to ups t isn’ digestive system ding routine ask about his previous fee first few the ing dur this to k and stic home. new his at days and weeks should be d fee his to s nge cha Any page 67 for done gradually – turn to to feeding de gui our comprehensive from ice adv h wit se, hor new your n ritio nut ine experts in equ

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If he’s used to living out in the day and coming in at night, but all the other horses at your yard are on 24/7 summer turnout, ask if someone would be willing to stable their horse at night with yours for a short period until you can wean him on to full-time turnout. If he’s used to a regimented feeding

programme at certain times of day, try to stick to these times and gradually phase in your new routine. Common sense should always prevail, and giving thought to the practicalities of your horse’s arrival and stabling arrangements will make a world of difference to his stress levels.

A positive start

owever sure you are that this is the horse for you, it’s natural to feel hesitant at the thought of your first few ‘solo’ rides together. Only a fool would charge out of the yard on a mission on the first day, so take things slowly and err on the side of caution to ensure you both stay safe – and follow our three simple steps to success

Step one Ask a trusted, knowledgeable friend to be there when you first ride, and head for an enclosed school or suitable field. Don’t ask too much of your horse – it’s only natural for him to feel spooky and distracted – so warm up gently, letting him stretch and get a good look at his new surroundings, and progress from there. There’s nothing stopping you hopping on for a quick ride the day your horse arrives, but be led by his temperament and your yard’s facilities. Only a fool would insist on

riding a horse who’s obviously stressed and worried by the move.

Step two The help of an understanding, supportive instructor is always important – but especially when you’re trying to get to know a new horse. It can be a huge confidencebooster to have someone on the ground who can spot where you’re going wrong and help you get off to a good start. If you haven’t got an instructor, word of mouth is often the best way to find one, or look online. A list of British

The National Saddle Centre has set new standards in saddle fitting and customer service.

Saddle fitting and design

The National Saddle Centre offers a carefully selected range of saddles for both the professional and amateur competition rider, looking for freedom of movement, improved performance and outstanding comfort for both horse and rider. We also offer a comprehensive range of general purpose saddles for riders of all ages and abilities, who are interested in correct saddle fitting for the maximum benefit for horse and rider.

Contact

www.nationalsaddlecentre.co.uk 07802 837383 enquiries@nationalsaddlecentre. co.uk

Ride out with a suitable companion at first

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Horse Society (BHS) approved instructors can be found at www.bhs.org.uk

Step three Riding out with a confident, level-headed horse and rider for company is a must for your first few hacks. Not only can they show you local routes and bridleways, but having another safe horse by his side will give yours a boost. If you would rather stick to walk and trot for your first few rides, don’t be afraid to say so. A sympathetic fellow hacker will be happy to stick to your pace.

On the right tack

hile many horses are sold with their tack, saving you a huge amount of both money and hassle, don’t assume everything’s in perfect working order. Check all leather work for signs of wear and have any damaged stitching repaired. Whether you’re buying new or secondhand, and leather or synthetic, for your own peace of mind it’s worth having your saddle checked by a qualified saddle fitter who’s registered with the Society of Master Saddlers (SMS) to ensure there aren’t any painful pressure points or other fitting problems. Their help and advice can stop major problems developing, and minor alterations to your saddle now could save you money on vet’s bills, or new tack, in the future. Visit www.mastersaddlers.co.uk to search for your nearest SMS fitter and retailer, and check out the SMS’s tips on fitting and using your saddle – whether you’re buying new or inheriting one. • Your horse will change shape regularly due to his age, training, management and so on, so have your saddle checked, and any necessary

adjustments made, regularly • Young horses must be fitted especially carefully, as their backs are virgin territory and very precious. Great care must be taken to avoid any damage that may cause problems later in life. The young back is particularly vulnerable and a swinging/bouncing saddle that doesn’t fit can be the cause of veterinary problems that may be irreversible. Recognise, too, that some young horses develop at a substantial rate and the saddle that fitted well only a short time ago may need adjustment • Mounting from a mounting block is infinitely better for the horse’s back and guards against the saddle tree becoming twisted • Saddles should be carefully stored

, so make Tack is expensive to replace moment the from red insu is rs you sure ll print sma the are bew it arrives – and e rag sto d’s with regards to your yar more for 54 e pag to n Tur s. facilitie to ensure insurance dos and don’ts thieves strike uld sho ted tec pro ’re you

on a well-made saddle horse or rack • Great attention must always be paid to the condition of the saddle flocking, as irregular, uneven or lumpy flocking can cause pressure points that may seriously damage your horse’s back. (See page 90 of Your Horse issue 349 for the latest SMS testing into the effect of riding in old saddles with poor flocking) • Your saddle must always be level when viewed from the side. ‘Uphill’ and the rider will sit too far back, ‘downhill’ and the rider will be encouraged onto the saddle’s fork • When viewed from the front and rear the saddle gullet must always provide adequate clearance – both before and after the horse is exercised • If your horse suffers a fall under saddle, ask a saddler to check it as any hidden damage may be substantial • Make sure your stirrup irons are the correct size, as too small or too large irons can be dangerous • Weak or defective stitching on any part of the saddle should be repaired instantly. Saddles should be checked every time they are used, and equal attention should be paid to girths

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Arriving from foreign shores

W Having to buy new kit can be a costly shock

All kitted out

Don’t presume your horse will come with rugs and headcollars, etc, only to be flummoxed on arrival day when he comes down the ramp naked. Ask to see in writing exactly what he’s being sold with, and if the answer to that is nothing, start making a list of what you need. At the very least your horse will need a headcollar and rope, grooming and first-aid kit, travelling gear, any necessary numnahs/pads and basic lungeing equipment. Rug-wise, two winter weight turnout rugs are a good idea, so one rain-sodden rug can be drying while the other is worn. Lighter-weight summer turnouts are a good idea if you’re buying a thinskinned Thoroughbred or Arab type who shivers at the first sight of a cloud.

STAR BUY KORRECTOR™

ith more and more Brits choosing to buy from abroad this can add to the stress of getting your new horse home, but doing your research and enlisting the help of an experienced horse transporter can ease his path home. “Always use a good, knowledgeable transporter with trained staff who are experienced with horses, rather than try to go it alone,” says Andrew Graham of DHI Performance Horses (www.dhiperformancehorses.com). “Modern lorries have fans to keep the horses cool, lots of space and the horses are well fed and watered, so that helps them settle. However, we always arrange for a vet to be on hand within 20 minutes of their arrival so he can check their temperature, heart rate and breathing. Provided they’re fit and well we leave them alone to relax in the stable. “In our experience, foreign horses don’t find it any more difficult to settle than horses who’ve come from other parts of the UK.”

Tips to help your foreign horse settle

• Feed a probiotic when he arrives to help his gut adapt to ‘foreign’ feed and water • While it’s important to give your horse time to settle on arrival, there’s no harm in taking him out for a walk in-hand or for a gentle lunge to stretch his legs after the journey and to help him relax • As with all horses, find out as much as you can about your horse’s previous routine so you can try to keep this consistent and phase any changes in gradually • Some Continental horses will have led a largely stabled life and may baulk at the thought of excessive turnout, even if we perceive this to be more natural for them. Bear this in mind and be sympathetic to your horse’s usual routine. Gradually extending his turnout and introducing him to other members of the herd over plenty of time will help him adapt to UK life

r your new If the seller can delive hassle, you e horse this will sav on the day ney mo re mo and rry wo

This fully adjustable air saddle pad creates a soft bearing surface, reducing pressure points. It can be used to adjust the saddle fit on one or more horses, as a riser pad front or back, or to correct asymmetry problems. Contact www.korrector.com or info@korrector.com

Your imported horse may find UK life strange at first

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Feeding for fine fettle

how to ease your horse into his new feeding regime and avoid upsets

fter weeks, perhaps even months of searching, you’ve found your perfect equine partner, have found the ideal yard for him and have a dream list of events you want to attend. But first you need to sort his diet out to suit you, his dietary needs and his new workload. Horses can get very stressed about any change in routine and so when you take charge of your new horse you need to think about his diet. “It’s vital you stick with your horse’s old feeding regime if you’re going to

avoid digestive problems at such a sensitive time for him,” says Dr Teresa Hollands, nutritionist at Dodson & Horrell. “The biggest risk to horses facing a new yard and a new owner is colic, brought on by changes in routine. Feeding his usual diet for at least 10 days after he’s arrived will help but don’t forget to buy the feed in advance so you have it for when you bring your horse home.” But what if you’re worried about feeding him his usual feed? If he’s a competition horse who’s been fed

a high-energy mix, you might be reluctant to keep him on this while he’s settling in. “In this instance you need to ask the previous owners for help,” says Teresa. “Ask them to gradually reduce the amount of feed he’s having so that when he gets to you he’s on low enough amounts to match the workload he’ll be on. If, after a couple of weeks, you decide to change his feed, you need to do it gradually, taking 10 to 15 days.” Try to replicate his old management regime, too, giving him similar turnout time and exercise.

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be fed a hard feed ration Not all horses will need to ge and a feed balancer or and will cope well on fora alone nt me ple multi-vitamin sup

ASSESSING BODY CONDITION

When your new horse first arrives on the yard it pays to weightape him and make a note of his body fat score. This gives you a base line and will allow you to spot any changes to his weight quickly if you do these measurements every fortnight in the future

0 Emaciated Marked ewe neck, narrow and slack at base. Skin tight over the ribs, ribs clearly visible. Spinous processes sharp and easily seen. Angular pelvis, skin tight, very sunken rump

3 Good Most leisure horses. Firm neck, no crest (except stallions), shoulder blades defined. Ribs just covered, easily felt. No gutter along back. Pelvis covered by fat and rounded, no gutter

1 Poor Ewe neck, narrow and slack at base. Ribs easily visible, skin sunken either side of spine. Spinous processes well defined. Rump sunken but skin supple, pelvis and croup well defined

4 Fat Slight crest, wide and firm. Shoulder blade covered and difficult to feel. Ribs well covered. Gutter along spine. Gutter to root of tail. Pelvis covered, felt only with firm pressure

2 Moderate A fit racehorse or eventer. Narrow but firm neck, shoulder blade clearly defined. Ribs just visible, spine well covered. Rump flat either side of spine, croup well defined, some fat

5 Obese Marked crest, very wide and firm, folds of fat. Shoulder blade very difficult to feel. Ribs cannot be felt. Deep gutter along spine, back broad and flat to root of tail, skin distended, pelvis buried

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PERFECT PARTNERS / Feeding

Feeding for type and workload Competition horses need energy and a level head

nce you know more about your horse and you’ve established his workload, you may want to change his feeding regime. Of course, if he looks well on his current feed and he has enough energy for his work, then leave him be. But there may be times when a change could be useful – if he’s had a change in workload or if he has particular nutritional requirements, for instance.

Feeding for energy, but no fizz, please

If your new horse seems naturally exuberant then provide the majority of the feed as hay or haylage as you need to feed him calories that are slow releasing (remember calories and energy are the same thing). The higher the forage-to-concentrate ratio, the closer you are to feeding like nature intended and the calmer your horse will be. Get your hands on the best quality forage you can as this will reduce the need for any hard feed. Forage alone may not provide all the micronutrients your horse needs – if this is the case you can give him a feed balancer or multi-vitamin supplement. There are a number of bagged fibre feeds on the market, too, which can be fed on their own to top up your horse’s energy (calorie) requirements if your horse needs more than hay or haylage. However, if forage alone isn’t providing enough energy then it may be time to add a concentrate. This is where it becomes vital to choose the right one if your horse is particularly prone to fizzing up. It’s important to remember that while feed can’t change a horse’s character, it might exaggerate his

ight, then he If your horse is losing we a feed that Pick . ries needs more calo rgy (fibres contains slow releasing ene t contains fast tha one n tha er rath and oil) glucose) and eals (cer releasing energy

natural exuberance. However, no feed will give your laid back cob the natural energy of a Thoroughbred. In fact, feeding him more energy (calories) will simply make him fatter and, therefore, lazier. Remember, too, that a fizzy horse often needs more calories than his laid back stable mate, as he simply uses up more calories being fizzy!

The older horse

Older horses can manage absolutely fine on normal diets until the effects of ageing begin to make things difficult for them. For many older horses the problems start when their teeth begin to deteriorate, making chewing hard feed and long stem forage difficult.

competition horses

Competition horses need to have enough energy to do the job, but they also need to stay level-headed. When you first start out you need to assess his energy levels at competitions and how he behaves. Until you know this it pays to stick with a high-fibre diet, with added vitamins and minerals as required. As your horse’s workload increases so will his energy requirements and he might need something extra in his diet. The type of feed you choose will dictate what type of energy is supplied. Cereals such as oats and barley provide horses with fast release energy, which will give ‘oomph’ in short bursts – ideal for show jumpers, for instance. For horses needing stamina, such as endurance horses or eventers, slow release energy feeds are much more useful. Fibre and oil also provide slow release energy, so simply adding oil to your horse’s fibre ration might do the trick.

This may cause quidding, weight loss or even choke. Soaking feed to make it more of a mash may help and there are a number of soft high fibre mixes on the market that are designed to be easier for older horses to chew, and can be fed alone or mixed with other feed. It’s important to keep up the fibre intake with an older horse as, not only will it aid digestion and keep his hind gut healthy, but it will also provide internal warmth. If your grass is not as lush as it could be, try feeding him soft meadow hay or haylage. If he struggles to chew, chopped forage feeds or quick dried grass could be the answer.

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LERS® trave nutri lling willtvonist your isit yard free o char f ge

Feeding the new horse

Choosing what to feed your new horse can be a big dilemma. Making the right decisions on providing a sensible, balanced diet while you are still getting to know your new equine friend is tricky enough but the well-meaning and invariably conflicting advice from everyone on the yard can make matters even more confusing. The safest option is to use free, professional advice from a reputable feed manufacturer. SPILLERS® not only have a Care-Line but they also have a travelling nutritionist who will visit your yard free of charge if you can get a group of five or more horses and their owners together for the occasion. What better or easier way to start off on the right hoof with your new horse!

SPILLERS® Care-Line

The SPILLERS® Care-Line provides sound, practical, nutrition advice, solving feeding queries for hundreds of grateful horse owners around the UK, every week. A professional nutrition advisor will help you take into account your new horse’s type, workload, condition, age, and general character to tailor-make the perfect diet for him or her and your budget! You can also use the service throughout the year, as you get to know your new horse better, to ensure your chosen diet remains just right, even when workload or grazing change.

SPILLERS® travelling nutritionist

For an even more personal service Isabel Harker, the SPILLERS® travelling equine nutritionist, and can be booked free of charge to visit your yard, Riding Club or local competition centre to give expert nutritional advice and weigh your new horse on the SPILLERS® mobile weighbridge. Isabel can assess your horse’s overall condition and then show you how to continue to monitor it regularly by using condition scoring and a weigh tape. She will provide you with a record card showing your new horse’s current weight, condition score and suggested diet plan and you can ring her whenever you have any queries!

SPILLERS® feeds

SPILLERS® are famous for producing a first class portfolio of feeds to suit every type of horse or pony. They have over 30 products to choose from, including their leading range of complementary fibres and balancers, low energy mixes and cubes, competition and conditioning feeds and specialist breeding and racing products. Whatever your horse’s nutritional needs SPILLERS® can deliver. SPILLERS® on Facebook We are always here to help. By joining Team SPILLERS® on Facebook you can keep us-up-to-date with your progress with your new horse, stay in the loop with our latest news and join in with our discussions and competitions. There is also a dedicated SPILLERS® Helpers page to provide you with advice and help on anything to do with SPILLERS®, to keep you and your new horse on the right nutritional tracks! For friendly feeding advice contact the SPILLERS® Care-Line on 01908 226626, email careline@spillersfeeds.com visit www.spillers-feeds. com or visit SPILLERS® on Facebook.

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PERFECT PARTNERS / If he’s a lazy good doer, then a good strategy is to feed a balancer, then add oats depending on his workload. Lack of energy could also be due to lost minerals (through sweating, for instance) and feeding an electrolyte could help.

Soaked unmolassed sugar beet or soaked high fibre nuts or cubes are also a great alternative. There are many specialist hard feeds on the market targeting veteran horses and one of these may prove ideal – but only after you’ve sorted his fibre intake! They often contain cooked cereals, which are more readily available for enzyme attack in the small intestine, making them more easily digestible for the older horse.

Jazzing up a lazy horse

The key to a lazy horse is to find the root of the problem. Often horses are lazy because they’re carrying too much weight and, if this is the case for your horse, then he needs to go on a diet and start a fitness regime. When helping your horse lose weight, make sure you do it in a balanced way. Vitamins and minerals are essential to help keep his energy levels up, and even good grass is deficient in some of the essential vitamins and minerals. If you’re restricting his grass intake, a feed balancer or vitamin and mineral supplement is needed – look out for specially designed low calorie supplements. Be careful with his exercise, too, as you’ll need to increase it gradually to avoid injury.

Feed won’t change your horse’s natural character

Feeding youngsters

Top up good grazing with a supplement If your horse isn’t overweight you might need to look at his training. For instance, if he’s been trained in the past by someone who nags with their legs or hasn’t made it clear to him what he’s being asked to do, he might have just switched off – a good instructor will help with this. If all else fails and even with better training and a leaner body your horse still lacks enthusiasm, you could try introducing a few handfuls of oats to his diet. Oats provide quick release energy and can be fed when your horse is working hard and then stopped if he’s having a quiet time.

If you’ve bought a youngster it pays to keep his diet as simple as possible, while at the same time making sure he’s got the protein, vitamins and minerals needed for healthy growth. As most young horses are on light workloads many top riders (Pippa Funnell being one) advocate a diet of grass and hay alone, topped up with a mineral supplement. The last thing they want is their newly-backed horse with too much energy. It’s much better to have a young horse who is calm, listens to you and is easy to work with. However, just like young children, young and inexperienced horses are likely to find ‘normal’ activities exciting, so don’t look for a quick fix from their feed.

Ex-racehorses

Your ex-racehorse won’t be working nearly as hard as he once did and it’s important to feed accordingly. If he’s in good condition a high fibre diet in the form of grass, hay and chaff will be fine. Remember that many racers haven’t been used to high forage rations and a gradual change is needed.

If he’s in need of a bit of weight gain then look for high calorie feeds that contain slow releasing energy – but don’t forget that fat gain must be done slowly together with an exercise programme to build muscle. Take at least six months to change his shape through feeding and exercise. Consider highly digestible fibre sources such as unmolassed sugar beet and alfalfa. Oil is also rich in calories and is efficiently digested by horses to provide a good source of slow release energy. All oils will provide extra calories, but linseed and cod liver oil in particular provide omega 3 – an essential fatty acid. This will provide extra calories as well as promoting healthy skin and joints. PERFECT PARTNERS ♥ From the publishers of Your horse and horse deals magazines

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Pass the supplements

wo of the most common supplements used are calmers and joint supplements, although there are dozens of others designed to tackle all sorts of behavioural and health issues. Be wary of any amazing claims and don’t be worried about asking manufacturers for evidence to back up their claims.

Calming supplements

Often referred to as calmers, these supplements are used to reduce stress, tension, anxiety and nervousness in horses. Some are fed frequently to regulate excitable behaviour, while others can be used as a one off to help with a particular situation such as competing or clipping. Your new horse may be helped by a calmer when he first moves into his new home but, remember, some of them have a sedative effect, which might not be great if you’re training or competing. Many calmers are magnesium based but these will only work if your horse is deficient in magnesium to start with. A call to a feed helpline will put you on the right track if you’re not sure which of the dozens of calmers to go for.

“The most obvious indication for the degenerative join problems. Managing uses of a probiotic would be where the health of horses’ joints by, for horses are either stressed or example, working the horse according compromised,’” he explains. to his fitness, being conscious of the “Remember that a horse is a flight type of going you are riding on, and animal and will only openly show warming up and down before and after signs of stress when he’s about to run, exercise, is therefore vital – especially before that he’ll be experiencing for the older horse. internal preparation, which we might Caroline George BVMS MRCVS, refer to as butterflies!” a partner at Lambourn Equine Vets The competition horse, excitable (LEV), adds: “By the time horses, the older horse or a horse is lame as a result horses who are coping with of degenerative joint If your new horse is the stress of moving to a disease (or arthritis) unfit, or it’s unseasonably new yard are all examples it’s often too late to hot, he may sweat more of where probiotics can be reverse these changes than usual. Consider used to help with: and, while some of feeding him an the symptoms can be electrolyte in a lick, paste, • Normalising gut flora granule or liquid form throughout the gut managed, the • Bolster immunity degenerative effects associated with a stable gut are permanent.” • Help utilise the horse’s regular feed Feeding a mobility supplement and forage can prove a useful tool in managing • Counter the ‘butterflies’ associated joint health. But it’s not just for the old. with stress Many riders feed joint supplements to their young horses, too, to protect their joints from the stresses and strains of becoming a riding horse in the hope that this will help keep them sound well into old age.

FACT

KNOW HIS WORKLOAD AND FEED ACCORDINGLY

Digestive enhancers

As with humans, digestive upset in horses can leave them feeling rotten. Digestive enhancing supplements Horses are used for all sorts of (probiotics) are designed to support activities, so tired joints and muscles, the horse’s digestive system and general wear and tear and stiffness can the balance between friendly and become an issue for some. harmful bacteria in the gut. Experience counts, and buying Jonathan Nelson, director an older, experienced of British probiotics schoolmaster can provide Diarrhoea, colic or foul manufacturer Protexin, a wonderful teacher and smelling droppings may stresses the importance confidence giver. each be a sign that your of being mindful of However, as the body’s horse has a problem with the stresses that ability to repair itself his gut so watch your new moving to a new home reduces with age, its horse for these early environment and a natural inflammatory warning signs new routine can place response to daily wear on a horse. and tear can contribute to

Joint supplements

FACT

Light Low intensity hacking for one to two hours four or five times a week, as well as schooling two to three times a week and occasional Riding Club-level competitions Moderate Schooling four to five times a week and competing every one to two weeks at a level equivalent to affiliated Novice eventing or Elementary level dressage Heavy Competing at Intermediate eventing or above, 50-mile endurance rides and high level dressage Very heavy Racing, three-day eventing and top level endurance riding

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Talk his language Once your new horse is home it’s time to start building that all-important bond with him. Here we have all the advice you need to ensure your relationship with your horse is a winning one

ears ago, horses were largely trained using a carrot and stick approach – often without the carrot! Back then, horses were an essential tool to be trained as quickly as possible, but thankfully things have changed. These days, we want to love them and build a strong, trusting, longlasting relationship. Many techniques, both ridden and in-hand, will develop this all important relationship – the aim being to use our knowledge of how horses live in the wild to help us bond with them as ‘herd leader’.

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Take control Building a bond

Moving to a new home can be a massive upheaval for a horse. He’s being taken away from his home, friends and humans, and his routine is likely to be different, too. How you react to your horse may be a world apart from how his previous owner reacted and this might cause him to behave differently in return. Right from the off, your horse will test you to see if you’re good enough to take care of him. If not, he’ll take on that role for himself. In the first few weeks it’s important to spend lots of time with him, and your horse needs to know the house rules from the start. A horse who’s been subservient in his old home might suddenly find himself in a position of power in his new environment, and if you don’t take control, he will. Establishing discipline is key, giving clear signals about what you will and won’t accept.

A positive start

It’s important to make sure your new horse feels safe when he arrives. For instance, when you get him home and before you stable him, let him have a run around the school if you have one, or lunge him so he can let off any pent up anxiety. If you have bars between stables, have horses close enough for him to see, but not right next door so he’s not instantly put in a group situation. Taking him for a walk round the yard in-hand will also help him feel you’re in control and helping him out.

VITAL groundwork

Many owners baulk at the idea of groundwork, thinking it’s only useful for young horses or those with a problem. But it’s something that should be incorporated into every horse’s training and is especially useful when starting a relationship with a new horse. It’s a great tool for when you can’t or don’t want to ride, and you shouldn’t look on it as second-rate training but as something that will complement your ridden work. If you’re using groundwork because you’re too frightened to ride then you need to get help from a good instructor. Groundwork will help you establish your role as your horse’s leader. Exercises don’t have to be complicated – the aim is to establish control over your horse’s feet. This will help show you’re in control, are a good leader and will take care of any situation.

dung and bedding from Take some of your horse’s d. The familiar smell will yar his old home to his new help him feel at home

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Getting started Natural horsemanship expert Charles Wilson has years of experience in helping owners bond with their horses. Try this simple three-stage exercise

Step 1

Your horse should be more interested in you than his surroundings

Always work in a safe, enclosed space. Ideally you should have a rope halter and a 12ft leadrope. A headcollar and usual length leadrope is not as good but start with this if it’s all you’ve got. You can begin with the basic habits of leading and standing – will he lead quietly by your side and can he stand beside you at halt, without fidgeting his feet and looking elsewhere? Charles often observes horses being led by owners who are giving no thought to the horse’s attention – or lack of it. Always lead your horse at a smart walk, keeping him up to your shoulder, or wherever you decide you want to place him.

Ask your horse to yield to gentle pressure

way to build Ground skills are a good g and dlin han in nce fide con r you rses look to Ho se. hor new r training you we display d vide us for leadership – pro at all times dge wle kno and s nes calm

Step 2

TOP TIP

Make every effort to be considerate with your horse. For instance, don’t throw the rugs on or thump the saddle down hard on his back. These little things will help with your relationship Praise by releasing the tension

SHORT OF TIME?

Any time with your horse is time well spent, so if you’re battling against the clock, don’t worry. Use what time you have to work on just one exercise or simply to be with your horse. Try sitting in the field reading as he grazes around you. Your connection will grow the more work you do with him – especially any groundwork you’re doing. Over time you’ll find that your horse will simply want to be with you. If he comes over to check out what book you’re reading with no encouragement from you, that’s fantastic.

To get your horse’s attention on you, because without his attention you have nothing, you must ask him to yield his hindquarters away. The importance of yields cannot be over-emphasised – until you know he’ll work softly for you on the ground, riding him could also be tricky. A horse who jogs, naps or spooks will always do so with a tight neck and back, poised for flight, so getting your horse soft while on the ground is a real bonus. Stand by your horse’s shoulder and ask for a hindquarter yield by placing your hand where your leg would lie. Now press gently and ask him to move. If he refuses, back up the request by pressing harder, then a light smack with the palm of your hand. His near leg should reach under his belly, and there should be softness and bend through his body. In all likelihood he will shuffle away from you with a braced neck, with eyes looking at anything else but you. You must patiently persist in asking for the yield (his fore feet should move almost on the same spot as he yields the back half of his body only – this is a turn on the forehand). As with all exercises, do this from both sides.

Step 3 Reward your horse when he moves by allowing him to stand still and chill. You’re looking for a fluid movement done willingly. This is the beginning of lateral flexion, which is vital for control, both on the ground and ridden. With lateral flexion, the horse is in a listening and learning frame of mind, not braced ready for flight. While doing this work, be careful of your own body language to show that you are a good leader. Stand tall and with purpose, moving confidently at all times. Horses watch our body language carefully, and if we’re at all nervous they will react to that instantly. If you feel you’re not that confident at this point in time, trying Alexander Technique lessons to improve your posture and movement may help.

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Simple steps to success Natural horsemanship expert Sarah Kreutzer echoes the benefit of groundwork in building the foundations of a lasting bond. Here she shows us a simple yet effective exercise

1 2

Place a single pole anywhere in the school or enclosed field Using a headcollar and long leadrope or lunge line, lead your horse around the pole in different directions. Keep a firm contact on the rope and reward his confident steps with positive verbal praise or a small handful of food See if your horse will walk over the object alongside you but don’t pull on the rope – he needs to move freely and willingly When he’ll happily walk over the pole, continue to practise the exercise and reward with praise

Your horse needs to move willingly

3 4

BE THE LEADER ON BOARD

Many think that leadership and bonding is just something you do when handling your horse from the ground but, no, it’s just as important to carry on the good work while in the saddle. One thing to remember is that your horse will always try to avoid any danger, or what he perceives to be dangerous, wherever possible. Top trainer Melanie Watson explains: “It’s important when you’re riding to think about how your horse sees things and realise that fighting with him is not always the best step. You need to think as his leader. For example, if he’s reluctant to go over a ditch on a hack, rather than getting into a fight that you’ll probably lose, try getting off him and leading him over it instead. Otherwise the next time you approach that ditch he’s likely to remember the fight and play up even more. Remember – horses need a leader.”

the leader, It’s horse nature to follow the alpha be uld wo wild the in o wh epts you acc se hor r you if female. So ning him as his leader, it makes trai tational far easier and less confron

Begin to vary the exercise by: • Increasing the speed of the walk through the exercise • Regularly changing direction • Asking your horse to stop over the pole or with one foot over it All your horse’s natural instincts will tell him to move over or past a worrying obstacle quickly in order to protect himself. So, if you can get your horse working happily through this exercise, he’s obviously feeling confident with you. To move on from this exercise you can change the obstacle you horse has to tackle – a piece of tarpaulin or a plastic water tray, perhaps.

THE STOP AND STAND EXERCISE

Melanie has many ridden exercises up her sleeve to help with bonding and leadership. Here’s one of her favourites, which is easy to ride whether you’re in the school or out on a hack. Asking your horse to halt, then stand and relax, is one way to check you’re calling the shots. It’s also a good way to lower his heart rate and reduce tension through his body. The exercise introduces a new halt aid that will reduce your reliance on the reins and help to gradually refine your rein aids. Use a balance rein, a piece of rope tied in a loose loop around your horse’s neck or a simple neck strap to ask your horse to stop without using the reins. To get the halt, pull the rope, putting gentle pressure on the front of his jugular. As soon as he halts, release the pressure immediately. Make sure your own breathing is deep and steady – a nervy rider makes for a nervy horse! Repeat the exercise – the aim is to see if you can halt while holding the rope with one hand and the buckle end with the other.

Show your control by reducing his tension

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A healthy start

From worming to vet checks, and first aid to grooming, here’s the latest expert advice to ensure your new horse stays happy and healthy

Vital signs

Vet Gil Riley has this advice for monitoring your horse’s health… It’s important to take note of your horse’s normal vital signs (respiration and temperature) when he’s healthy, so you can tell when something’s wrong. To monitor his respiration, simply count the number of times his ribcage rises and falls – that’s one breath – in a minute. The normal rate for a horse is around eight to 12 breaths per minute. To take his temperature, insert a thermometer into his rectum. There are two types – traditional mercury and digital. Digital is recommended due to its robustness. After applying a little Vaseline to the bulb end, stand to the side of your horse, lift his tail and gently insert the thermometer. Keep it against the wall of the rectum and hold it there for 30 seconds then gently withdraw and read. Make sure you’ve got someone on hand to hold your horse. A normal temperature is 37-39°C.

Worming

sample. With a new horse it may not change the decision as to whether to worm or not, but it does start to build a Ben Gaskell, Pfizer’s veterinary picture of the worm burden that he adviser, provides some pointers… carries and how his worming regime A new horse can bring a number of can be best integrated onto the yard’s infections into your yard, including general worm management. a high level of worms. Unless you have Viable eggs may continue to be a trustworthy history of worming for passed in the faeces for a couple of your new horse, err on the side of days after you’ve wormed so caution. Treat him soon after keep your horse off pasture arrival with a wormer licensed for this period to avoid to control benzimidazolecontamination. Even if he’s resistant worms, and If your new horse is going to be out on his own, one that will kill all shedding worms he stages of worms, could cause other horses keep him in as he will shed worm eggs that may including tapeworm. on the yard to pick up an increasing re-infect him when the It may also be useful to burden worm larvae have matured. have your new horse tested Once your new horse has to assess his current worm been integrated into your burden before any treatment. A worming programme with the other faecal worm egg horses on the yard, the importance of count will give an ongoing pasture management should indication of the never be underestimated. Clearly a adult redworm good worm control strategy will result and roundworm in less pasture contamination, and an parasites in your egg count from your new horse 6-13 horse by weeks after arrival will be a useful measuring the guide as to how he’s coping with his Check his number of worm new yard and the worm challenge. respiration rate eggs in a dung

Remember

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Make sure your new horse is vaccinated against flu and tetanus

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Vaccinations

Annual equine flu vaccinations are not just needed to keep your horse healthy and free of this highly infectious disease, they are also required if you want to compete in Riding Club events or affiliated competitions. If your new horse is already vaccinated, you just need to make sure you keep him up to date with yearly boosters. If he’s not covered, you’ll need to start the whole vaccination process from scratch. Two primary vaccinations are given and these must be administrated no less than 21 days and no more than 92 days apart. Then a first booster is needed no less than 150 days and no more than 215 days after the second primary vaccination. Subsequent booster injections must be given not more than 365 days apart. Current rules state that if any of these vaccinations are out by just one day, then the whole process must be started again. If you’re competing in FEI competitions then your horse needs twice-yearly boosters. Your vet will also advise you to vaccinate your horse against tetanus. This consists of two primary doses given four weeks apart, followed by boosters every one to three years, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.

First aid

If your new horse cuts or grazes himself, don’t panic. As long as the wound is minor you can look after the wound yourself and minimise scarring

for poisonous Check your field regularly are bracken, n mo com st plants. The mo rt, horsetail, buttercups, St John’s wo acorns, yew and ragwort

A step-by-step guide to wound care

If you’re confident that the wound is superficial you can help the healing process along by following these simple steps – but always call your vet if you are in any doubt 1 Clean

Clean the area using a weak stream from a hosepipe or by syringing water around the area. Trim away any hair so you can see what you’re dealing with

3 Apply

Apply a cream designed to promote healing. Natural creams tend to be gentler and less likely to leave a scar as they keep the wound mois t

2 Bathe

Use a clean piece of gauze – not cotton wool – soaked in warm water containing antiseptic to gently clean the wound. Remove all foreign materials

4 Bandage

Place a clean gauze pad over the wound and wrap gamgee round to provide padding. Secure in place with a flexible bandage. Check and redress the wound regularly

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Grooming

Our horses’ mental well-being is just as important as their physical health and the act of grooming is much more influential in meeting emotional needs than you might have thought. It’s a time for listening to our horses and giving them lots of attention – which most love. Horse trainer Ben Hart explains: “Grooming is often a missed opportunity to train, understand and connect with our horses. You can find out what he likes and dislikes, and as grooming is normally done by a high ranking individual in the herd, it’s potentially a very controlling situation – great for your status as his leader. “Try, if you can, to leave your worries and stresses at the stable door when grooming your horse and give him your undivided attention. It’s this kind of calm, quality time your horse needs from you and it’s a great way for you both to start to trust each other. For the time you’re grooming, you’re giving your horse a pleasant experience without asking for anything in return. So many people want to get on board their new horse straight away but remember you’re a complete stranger to him. Spend some time with him first, using grooming as a way to bond and learn about each other.” Grooming is also a great time for checking your horse for any problems such as cuts, swollen or warm legs, increased respiration, watery eyes, etc.

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On the move Whether you’re keen to compete regularly or simply explore pastures new on a beach ride or hack, investing in a trailer or lorry will give you and your horse the freedom to fulfil your dreams

Buying a trailer Know your options

Easy and low-tech, a trailer requires no extra road tax, no annual MoT and there’s no legal requirement for insurance. However, trailers can be difficult to handle, especially in high winds or when reversing, and because there’s no requirement for an MoT it’s all too easy for a trailer to deteriorate to a dangerous condition without realising it. Remember, if you buy a car just for towing, you’ll be paying a lot in fuel bills and insurance for a vehicle you might only use a handful of times each year.

What to check

First off, is it big enough to get your horse in comfortably? Not just for height but also consider his width. Trailers tend to move a lot too – will he be ok with this? The important things to check on the trailer are wheels, tyres, brakes, electrics, doors, and the floor and chassis.

Wheels

A bit of rust isn’t usually anything to worry about, but if it’s rusted so far through that the rim is significantly damaged, this is a serious problem. Check that all the wheel nuts are present and tight, then grab each wheel with both hands and try to wiggle it back and forth to see if there’s any free play. If so, chances are the wheel bearing needs replacing – not

a massively expensive job but one that needs doing immediately.

Tyres

Look for cracks or bulges in the sides of the tyres and between the lines of tread. Also check the tyre valves for signs of cracking. Do the tyres have the required legal tread depth? This is 2mm or approximately the depth of the edge of a 2p coin.

Brakes

Most trailer brakes are of the ‘over-run’ type, which means they come on automatically when the trailer starts to push a decelerating vehicle along, and then release when the vehicle accelerates.

Electrics

Do all the lights work when hitched up? Do the indicators work properly (ie, left on car, left on trailer) – you’ll be surprised how many don’t. Don’t forget the number plate light, too.

Floor

Lift up the matting and check for rot in a wooden floor and corrosion in the chassis underneath.

Fittings

Check the hitch works and the jockey wheel raises and lowers properly. Do the doors open and close properly? If not it could be a sign that the trailer body has been distorted in a crash.

The right towing vehicle All vehicles have a maximum allowable towing weight – if you need to find yours it should be in the specifications. Try a website such as www.parkers.co.uk for reviews, prices and specs on all cars. Essentially, if you have one typically-sized horse in a standard-sized trailer you can pull it with a Ford Mondeo-sized estate

car. But the heavier your tow car, the more stable it will be, especially in strong winds. Many owners use big 4x4s, which have much higher towing weights and can manage a trailer with two horses. But these are pricey to buy and much more expensive to run in both fuel and maintenance costs.

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Buying a lorry A 7.5 tonne lorry There’s loads of room for two or more horses, lots of living area, and plenty of space for tack and kit. At the posh end you can pay hundreds of thousands for one of these, but there are a surprising number of older lorries on sale at very reasonable prices. This is partly because the licensing restrictions limit who can drive one, but also because they cost a huge amount to run in fuel and maintenance. And because many of them are 20 years old or more, they need a lot of upkeep. So that £5,000 bargain lorry could easily cost you another £2,000 a year in fuel and maintenance. Also, when it comes to MoT time, you have to take them to a commercial test centre for a special (and expensive) test.

What to check

You really need an expert with you for this one. Many of the lorries in the lower price brackets will be very old now and use engine and brake technology from another era. And most of them will be former commercial vehicles, fitted with a horsebox after being retired from high street service, which typically happens at five to 10 years old, so expect that the horse box part could easily be 15 years old and may need some attention by now.

The licensing restrictions explained

If you passed your driving test before January 1997 and have an ordinary driving licence, you can drive anything up to and including a 7.5 tonne lorry or tow any trailer. However, if you passed your test after January 1 1997 you can only drive either of the following: • A vehicle up to 3.5 tonnes (3,500kg) maximum gross weight towing a trailer of up to 750kg maximum gross weight (up to 4,250kg in total) • A trailer over 750kg maximum gross weight as long as it’s no more than the unladen or kerb weight of the towing vehicle (up to 3,500kg in total) For anything heavier you need to take a Category B + E driving test.

Don’t buy, hire

For those people who only need occasional use of horse transport, hiring is a much better option. There are plenty of

DON’t MISS

Engine

These are very strong motors, designed to run for years, so high mileage shouldn’t be a problem. But the ancillaries such as clutches, hydraulics, electrics and cooling systems all need attention on a regular basis. Most of the engines are hidden away under the cab so a lorry with a tilting cab will save a fortune in labour time at the garage.

Paperwork

As well as the usual checks of numbers against the log book, have a proper look through all the maintenance records and receipts. Lots of bills can be a good thing but can also mean a troublesome old truck where something is always about to break. companies that hire out both trailers and lorries, and while the costs might seem high on the surface, compared to the amount you’ll pay to buy and run a lorry, plus the depreciation over time, hiring is very good value for the occasional user.

Insurance and breakdown cover

There’s no legal requirement to have trailer insurance, although you should definitely consider it because they are so easy to steal. Lorries are like cars and have to be insured by law. There are plenty of specialists advertising in Your Horse and Horse Deals magazines that will be happy to help. Breakdown cover is often included in horsebox insurance premiums. If yours doesn’t have it then, first off, check your AA or similar policy if you have one – you might already be covered. If not, either ask your insurer or check out the specialist providers – it isn‘t expensive and you’d be crazy not to have it.

Brakes

These trucks use air brakes that lock on when the engine is off and will only release when the engine runs and gets pressure into the system. Problems here are common so check that everything works and make sure all the brake warning lights go out.

The test drive

Two major concerns: is it any good and does everything work, plus can you really cope with something this big? That second question is important because you’ll have enough to worry about on competition day without reversing into the back of Mary King’s £100,000 transporter because you can’t drive your lorry properly.

Back door

Big lorries have big ramps, usually controlled by hydraulic dampers and springs. When these mechanisms get old, they get stiff and one-person operation can become very difficult. So make sure you can manage it by yourself.

Living space

If there’s a cooker and a fridge, make sure you see them working. Check out the electrics too – do they all work?

HGVs

To quote Mr Crocodile Dundee: ‘Call that a lorry? This is a lorry.’ OK, the full size HGVs are really only for the pros but, like the 7.5 tonners, there are some secondhand bargains around because not everyone can drive one. You need an HGV licence or to know a driver who has one. And you also need a lot of money because the fuel bills and maintenance costs will be horrendous. And you’ll need somewhere big enough to store it.

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Buying a lorry A 3.5 tonne lorry

Smaller horse lorries (3.5 tonnes) are usually based on a commercial van. Some are converted from a brand new vehicle and cost upwards of £25,000, but most are built on older vans. The big advantage is that they’re easy to drive, with familiar controls – normal brakes, for example, not air brakes – and with parts and spares readily available. They also have a normal MoT test and usually have enough space inside to carry one horse in comfort plus all the kit and tack you need for a day or two away. Plus you’ll get reasonable miles per gallon and decent performance, too. The biggest downside of a smaller van-based lorry is the cost. Because they can be driven by anyone, regardless of when they took a test (see page 87 for licence restrictions), and because they’re easy to drive and relatively cheap to run, they’re in high demand. The upside of this is that, having bought one, you’ll find that depreciation is very low because demand is so good.

battery. Does the clock show a completely different time to the right one? If so, the battery may have been removed and charged just prior to your visit.

Tyres will perish if not used, so check carefully

Tyres

Check them for tread depth and any signs of cracks or bulges.

Paperwork

This is essential. Is the log book in the seller’s name? If not, make them convince you their story is true. Chances are there’s something not right - maybe the seller is a back street trader. Check the VIN number on the log book with the one under the bonnet and always budget for a data check, which will tell you if the numbers match the insurance records and whether it has ever been stolen, written off, or has any finance owing on it. These checks cost from as little as £3.95 – you’d be crazy to ignore it. Service history and receipts for work done are essential to show that a vehicle has Many 3.5 tonne lorries are been properly maintained, built on ex-fleet vehicles, but remember that most big fleets sell their Like buying a car, you which means that the bodywork will probably vehicles when they need have to make certain be in good order but the a major service, not when assumptions based on engines might have been they’ve just had one. a vehicle’s service history worked hard over Old MoT certificates are a and MoT status, but even long distances good way to check a vehicle’s a complete service history mileage and to see how many and fat wad of receipts for work miles per year it has done. If it needs done doesn’t mean it isn’t just about servicing every 10,000 miles and has to blow up. Here are the checks you only done 1,000 miles per year, then the can do yourself. engine oil and brake fluid might be 10 years old and that’s asking for trouble. Is it stone cold when you start it up? If not, is there a problem starting from cold? Ask the owners not to start it Lift up the rubber matting if possible before your visit so you can see how it and check the floor for rot. Horse urine goes. Once started, give it time to is strong stuff and can cause plenty of warm up and listen for any uneven damage in a relatively short time. noises or rattles. Diesel engines are noisier than petrol ones but most modern motors are reasonably quiet. If Listen for any knocks or rattles from in doubt, take a knowledgeable friend. the engine or steering. Make sure the clutch works freely and the gears change smoothly. How are the brakes? After the test drive, now the van is nice Most lorries spend most of their time and warm, rev the engine and look for stood doing nothing – and that kills excessive smoke – and feel the wheels! batteries. When you turn the key, Yes, really. If one or more is hot, it does it turn the engine over quickly means that the brakes are sticking, and does the engine fire almost which is a common problem on immediately, or does it sound vehicles that are stood for a while. laboured? If so, you may need a new

Check the quality and levels of fluids

Remember

What to check

Engine

Floor

Electrics need checking for reliability

The test drive

Battery

DON’t MISS 88

You’ll find great exercises in every issue to improve your riding, whatever your discipline

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Selling your horse Where to sell

ometimes it just doesn’t work out – perhaps the bravest thing is to conclude that the horse isn’t for you, so you can concentrae on finding your true equine soulmate. Selling a horse can be a very stressful experience. Where you sell your horse depends very much on what kind of horse you have, who you expect to buy it and how much they’ll be paying. An old happy hacker selling for few hundred quid is probably best sold either by word of mouth, an advert in the tack shop, or your local free-ads. However, once you start getting more serious, there are much better options out there.

Horse Deals Magazine Your Horse’s sister title has to be the starting place to sell a horse because it’s the first place that anyone buying ought to be looking. Why? Because it’s packed with all sorts of horses, for all kinds of disciplines and prices, all over the UK. That’s a lot of ‘alls’ but that’s why Horse Deals is so good. If your horse is in there, with the right ad, at a sensible price, there’s a very good chance he’ll sell quickly. Advertising is cheap – as little as £39 to go in the mag and on the website for two months where it will be seen by more than 75,000 visitors.

are obviously a quick and easy sale with much of the emotional turmoil removed. The downsides are price – dealers have to factor in their margins and the cost of keeping the horse until it sells. Many have a quick turnover, but two or three weeks’ livery and exercising soon adds up. So you can typically expect to get around £2,000 less than your horse could be worth. But it might costs you much of that in advertising and livery if he takes a while to sell privately.

Auction

Depending on the horse, this could be a better option than you’d think. A well-bred animal, with a successful competition record, could be hot property in the right specialist auction.

Agent

Some centres and instructors sell horses and they might take yours on commission. Advantages are that more prospective customers will see the horse, there’s minimal hassle and the horse will be shown to his full potential. But the downsides are the commission – and there will be livery costs until your horse is sold.

dealers

Plenty of dealers buy horses as well as breed and import them – and if you have something a bit special you might be surprised at how much you’ll get. The benefits

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The perfect advert So you’ve decided to sell privately with an advert in Horse Deals – and while you know that your lad is the best horse and the biggest bargain in there, you still have to convince everyone else. Here’s how to write the perfect ad.

good at and any points earned. Mention his behaviour but don’t tell fibs – if the advert says ‘good to shoe’ and he turns out to be a nightmare, your buyer could have legal recourse to send him back.

Picture perfect

If there’s a good reason for you selling him, then say so… briefly. And if you think there’s a particular rider he would suit (novice, experienced, etc) then add this.

Say why

This is possibly the most important part. First impressions matter so choose a recent picture that shows him off to his best. If he’s a jumper, show him jumping. If it’s dressage, use the best photo you have that makes him look perfect. Think about the background to the photo and the light – you want your horse to look striking, not washed out with bright sunlight in the background. If you have a video available then either say so in the advert or put the web address in the ad – tinyurl.com is a free service that shortens web addresses into a manageable form.

Describe him

Measure his proper size, don’t just guess. Describe his breeding as accurately as you can. If his parentage is good, then say so and don’t forget to mention what he’s done, what he’s

DON’t MISS

Say where

Whereabouts in the country are you? Putting your landline phone number gives people confidence that you aren’t a backstreet dealer or fly-by-night. Say which town you live in/near so people can work out if you’re close enough. If you have restricted time to answer calls, say which hours are best, and don’t forget an email address and mobile number.

– don’t forget to end your price in ‘95’, such as £2,495, which psychologically sounds much less than £2,500. If you also have tack and rugs available, say something like: ‘Tack available, price negotiable’.

How much?

Don’t bother with…

Don’t forget the price. Saying POA (price on application) is like asking people to turn the page. As is saying ‘no offers’. Decide on how much you want and add a couple of hundred quid

Phrases such as ‘first to see will buy’. It makes you sound like a dodgy car dealer. Or ‘good home wanted’. Save your word allowance for the things that really matter.

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Making the deal

Make it as easy as possible for people to contact you

On the phone

Be honest. If a potential buyer asks if he bucks, and he does, then say so. This buyer may not have the experience or confidence to get the best from him and you are increasing the chances of your lovely animal being passed on in six months’ time. Arrange a viewing that suits you as well as them – there’s no point being stressed because the appointment is in your lunch hour on the day of a vital meeting. You’ll be stressed, your horse will be stressed and we guarantee it won’t go well.

In the field

Keep quiet unless they ask you questions. Let them see your horse and make up their own minds. If you’re selling because he’s too much for you, get someone else to ride him for you but be honest and explain why. Make sure he’s had plenty of exercise leading up to the viewing – you want him to be at his best. And don’t forget to use his best tack and togs that day.

The test ride

Let them get on second, after either you or your rider has been on board. Now he’ll be calmed down, warmed up and ready to show what he can really do. Watch their riding. Hopefully they will be confident, but if you’re not sure and think it might end in casualty, say so now, before someone gets hurt.

If the offer is too low, say thank you, take their number and tell them you’ll call if no one offers closer to the asking price. Chances are they’ll find a bit more if they are really interested. If you can’t close the deal, offer to throw in some tack or rugs. They’ll only have to be sold separately anyway, so this could save you hassle.

Haggling

Vetting

You know your price, they know what they want to pay. So for something to change significantly, the buyer has to convince you that, a) he’s only worth that much… and b) you can afford to take it.

DON’t MISS 94

The perfect new owner for your horse is out there

It’s not unusual for one vet to write a horse off for some kind of muscle damage that another vet won’t even mention. Unfortunately you are at their mercy. Hopefully your buyer will choose a good vet who’ll do his job

properly and professionally. If there’s a dispute, you’re better off counting your losses. People trust their vets and you can’t change that.

Payment

Cash is good, but cumbersome if your horse has real value. Cheques are fine but can take a week to clear – and you can’t let him go until the funds are cleared in your account. Bankers’ drafts are safer, but there can be problems with stolen or forged items (would you know what a genuine bankers’ draft looked like?). Payment by direct bank transfer is very quick, but there is a charge.

Haven’t found your perfect partner yet? There’s More than one thousand horses for sale in every issue of horse deals

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