Your Horse April 2010

TEST

TENDON & FETLOCK BOOTS USED AND ABUSED

IN 0 W 40 £4

THE

S M T ES IU EN IZILIBRLEM PR U PP F , EQ SU O NG TIS H THI INI RT LO AM O I C S, L W SEMOOT ER B G SE R O H

16

PAIRS

horse your

April 2010

INSPIRATION FOR OWNING AND ENJOYING HORSES

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NTHLY BRITAIN’S BEST-SELLING EQUESTRIAN MO

HOW TO

CALM HIM DOWN

The relaxing exercise that really works DRESSAGE JUDGES

SCHOOLING MASTERCLASS

BUYING FROM DEALERS

Correct canter leads guaranteed £3.80

Their pet hates revealed

The pros and cons explained Real life "Horses saved me from a life of crime " - next stop the Olympics

The essential guide to perfect paces with Anna Ross-Davies

8

TOP TACK CARE TIPS

THIS COULD BE

YORIDUER!

MIND & BODY

CLINIC

Sue Chinery is back in the saddle after a break from riding and looking for some help with her position. Can biomechanics coach Sarah Overington get her back on track?

Words Imogen Johnson

The pupils Sue Chinery and Lochie My horse Lochie is a 15-year-old, 15.3hh Thoroughbred. In the past we’ve competed at affiliated dressage but, after having had a three-year break from riding, we’re now getting back into it.

We’re both a bit rusty and encountering a few problems.

Lochie is often on the forehand, lacking engagement, and tends to drag his toes and set his jaw.

I’d really like to get him using his hindquarters properly and I know I need some help with my position too. I definitely need to relax and hopefully Sarah will be able to get Lochie and me working well together again.

Getting to know you

The expert Sarah Overington Sarah is a BHS Intermediate instructor based in South East England. After finding out about On March 28 Mary Wanless and her Ride with an acc -29 Sarah, along With Your Mind approach, red is running ited colleague, she became an accredited flatwork cl a biomechanics inic at a ve biomechanics coach for nu Sussex/Su rrey borde e on the riders of all abilities in 2005, rs of West Surrey. For more and she’s never looked back.

Sarah on 0 information call 148 When teaching, Sarah focuses 07765 548 3 272049 or on the rider’s position and 082, sarahoveri or email precision by building on their ngto hotmail.co n@ core strength and stability. .uk Along with her teaching, Sarah enjoys competing in BSJ.

Diary dat e

42 YOUR HORSE

During a lengthy introduction over a cuppa, while a shower of good old British rain takes its time to stop, Sarah and Sue discuss exactly what it is Sue hopes to get from her Your Horse clinic.

Sue tells Sarah all about Lochie and what she’s been struggling with, such as his lack of engagement and dragging his toes, so Sarah can provide a lesson that’s right for them.

As soon as the rain starts to ease they head out to the school and Sue begins to warm Lochie up.

“Now that I know what it is you’d like to work on I simply want to

observe as you warm up. Just do this as you would normally, so that I can see how you both work though the gaits,” instructs Sarah.

“As you work round the school I’ll ask you questions, considering your aims and what we’ve already discussed, before we have a chat about what I can see.”

Sue warms Lochie up before bringing him to a halt in the centre of the school.

“OK, I’ve spotted a few things so we’ll go through them now before we start working on the parts and positions of your body we need to change,” says Sarah.

Riding Your Horse clinic Did you know? the

Neutral spine is n e ca best position w r ou n he w , in k or w and d ne ig al spine is in balance

To begin with it’s all out of balance

Getting Sue into position First off, Sarah tells Sue that her position isn’t too bad, but there are a few changes they need to make.

“The first things I see are that you need to take more responsibility for your own bodyweight, so that you’re part of the solution and not part of the problem, and at the moment you’re also hollow through your back. Therefore you’re behind the vertical, not over your centre of gravity, so we need to get you working in what’s referred to as neutral spine,” explains Sarah.

“When you’re not in neutral spine and your back is hollow you

can’t be responsible for your own weight. In rising trot, for example, this will mean you’ll land heavily on Lochie’s back.”

Sarah also explains to Sue that she brings her hands a little too far back, leaving Lochie no space to lengthen through his topline, and that her leg position needs a bit of tweaking.

“What I’m going to do is help you get into the correct position before you start working in it. It will all feel quite strange but that’s because your muscles are used to working in a certain way.”

Achieving neutral spine To get Sue’s torso into the correct position, Sarah helps to physically straighten Sue out!

“I want you to bring your belly button back towards the waistband of your breeches and at the same time you should be able to feel your seat bones.”

Sue says that she can and that they feel even.

“That’s great. You should be able to feel your seat bones pointing straight down as you pull your belly button back. Then, to get your shoulders into position and to straighten out your back, bring your

collar bone forward over your sternum. This will bring you forward from behind the vertical.”

Sarah helps Sue straighten up

HOW TO

TAKE PART IN A CLINIC

Sarah watches as Sue works on her position

� If you’d like to take part in the Your Horse clinic, email imogen.johnson@ bauermedia.co.uk with Schooling or Jumping in the subject line. Tell us where it’s all going wrong for you, where you’re based and provide a contact telephone number. A solution could be just around the corner

64 YOUR HORSE

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Calming exercise

Sp k-buster!

A hot, tense and spooky horse can be a nightmare to handle and ride – calm him down with our simple but effective exercise

I

s your horse too hot to handle?

Does he spook at every opportunity?

If so he needs to calm down and relax. Here’s an exercise that can help him do just that.

This exercise is a form of join-up, which puts the horse into a state of submission and obedience. Once understood by you and your horse, you can use it before riding to settle him before work. It’s also useful for a horse who’s uncertain about going into a school or arena, has his eyes out on stalks, and spooks at anything and everything.

Making a start

You can do this exercise anywhere – in a school, arena, or a corner of your field.

Tack up as usual but don’t mount. Take the reins over your horse’s head and lead him into your arena or work space, using the reins like a pair of leadropes. The reason for this is to give the horse maximum freedom and so he doesn’t feel held down or controlled.

All you do now is start walking randomly around your space. At the beginning, your horse will be a little tense and nervous as he won’t know what to expect. He’ll need some direction and control, so the reins should be held quite close to the bit.

To guide him, simply do what you want him to do, showing the way and leading by example. To walk on, start walking.

You may need a light tug on the reins to get him going. In a state of complete relaxation, horses prefer to follow a leader, so put yourself in front.

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Our expert Ruth Mazet Ruth has been working with problem horses for 35 years and has experienced just about everything they can throw at us. By treating every horse as an individual, she uses his desire to co-operate to win him round to her way of thinking, building trust and confidence along the way. Her methods are simple and anyone, whatever discipline they ride in, can use them.

If he does try to surge past you, hold him back politely but firmly on the reins.

Keep the pressure on the bit to a minimum. The last thing you want is a fight. If he’s pulling quite hard, give regular tugs on the reins, rather than a hard, prolonged pull. These can be quite sharp but should diminish as he understands what’s wanted.

When you want to make a turn, simply turn and walk that way yourself. At this point, the hold on the reins should still be quite short.

Ring the changes

The essence of this exercise is to keep on changing direction. Put in lots of circles, large and small, change the rein across both the centre line and diagonals, and in both directions. Add in any other figures you can think of. The purpose of all this is to bring your horse’s focus

of attention onto you. If the track stays the same (either round the outside, or a never-ending circle), your horse will get bored and his mind will wander. This is when he starts resisting or playing up.

I think of it as scribbling. Like a small child with a pen who can’t draw yet, you simply wander around in a random way.

Don’t do more than half a side (long or short) without making a change of some sort. The horse mustn’t be given the time or space to think about anything else.

Getting there You should find that, after a while, your hand starts sliding down the reins almost by itself. What’s happening is that you and your horse are starting to feel comfortable with each other. Your horse is beginning to understand this game and finding it easy. There’s nothing for him to worry about.

You, on the other hand, are thinking about the next move and where you’re going, and are no longer worrying about your horse. This is the best way for you to be with, and work with, your horse.

How long it takes for you to get to this state depends entirely on your horse and his level of nervousness or anxiety. You may come to it within a few minutes, or it may take longer, but sliding your hand down the rein is part of the goal.

However long it takes, stay with it until you feel that your horse is starting to relax and follow you about. You should be neither pulling him along, nor holding him back. He’s simply there, behind you.

YOUR HORSE 65

�

A

lthough less than a mile from the capital’s financial district and just one tube stop from Buckingham Palace, Sam Martin’s childhood home, Vauxhall, is characterised by tired social housing. But turn left at the fast food chicken restaurant on the corner of Kennington Lane and you’ll find Vauxhall City Farm. This colourful oasis is home to rabbits, guinea pigs, sheep, goats, cockerels and even

70 YOUR HORSE

ponies. The farm sits right on the street alongside blocks of flats, and the sound of cockerels crowing and ponies whinnying can be heard alongside the wail of sirens and building site machinery. Anyone and everyone is welcome to walk in away from the hustle and bustle to meet the animals.

Across the road from the animal pens and stable block, the ponies have three small turnout paddocks, which back directly onto the public parkland of Spring

Gardens. The farm’s manège is also located in the park and it’s here that the BHS approved centre offers heavily subsidised riding lessons to the city’s underprivileged kids. To one side of the school is a busy building site, on the other a group are exercising and relay running, and less than 200 yards away there's the rumble of the Victoria tube line.

Sam grew up in a block of flats just behind the farm. At 11, bored of having

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Real life story Sam Martin

Sam Martin was born into a working class family and grew up in a deprived area of South East London. Against all the odds, he left behind a life of gang culture and crime, and now plans to compete at the 2012 Olympics as Nigeria’s first dressage competitor

An unlikely dressage star Words Rebecca Gibson

nothing to do outside school but wander the streets, he started visiting the farm with a group of mates.

“At first it was just a cool place to hang out. It was like a youth club, a really social place to be,” says Sam. “Then I met Jacko the donkey and took a real shine to him.

I started leading him out on weekdays after school in exchange for riding lessons on Saturdays.”

One by one, Sam’s friends lost interest

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in the farm, but he remained hooked on horses. “I remember it took me ages to get the hang of rising trot, but once I got it there was no stopping me. My mates used to take the mickey out of me all the time, for years they’d whinny at me every time I walked past, but I’m a strong character and it didn’t put me off.”

But soon after Sam’s 15th birthday his home life started to disintegrate. He was taken into care, became embroiled in the

South London gang culture and was frequently in trouble with the police.

“I was placed into foster care but I didn’t want to know,” he says. “I ran away and spent the next two years sleeping on friends’ sofas. I was stuck in a rut and felt very trapped. I didn’t like my life but there seemed to be no way out.

“When I turned 17, I decided I needed to take control of my life before it was too late. I knew horse riding was something

YOUR HORSE 71

�

Riding All about paces with Anna Ross-Davies The basic foundations – what to look for Look for a V shape – the stronger the better

<walk

The walk should have a really regular four-beat rhythm and footfall, and you want to be able to see a strong V shape when the outside hind and inside fore come together. I would avoid a very lateral walk, where it looks like two legs on the same side move together.

Look for some bend in the hock

>trot

When looking to buy a horse, trot is, without a doubt, the least important pace. People always want to see a really good trot. Personally, I would be looking for a more workman-like trot with lots of gears, and some good bend in the hindleg as it comes forward and up towards the horse’s belly. You want to be able to see a bit of knee action but you don’t want a ‘floaty’ trot. I would always advise people to look for a fairly ordinary trot that you can make into something brilliant.

Look for some jump in the air

<canter

The canter needs to have a very regular three-beat tempo and, even when the horse slows down, you must still be able to see a bit of jump in the air.

You don’t want to see the canter going flat across the ground.

�Schooling Get guidance on how to make the most of your horse from our monthly lessons online. Go to Videos & Advice and then click on Schooling

78 YOUR HORSE

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Improving the paces

>walk

is generally all about relaxation and problems in the walk are most commonly associated with tension through the horse’s back. I find that hacking is a good way to help this – and especially hacking up hills. Try taking your horse for a hack with another horse who really strides out. This will encourage him to stretch out and keep up, which is great for the walk.

Pole work is also a good way to help your horse improve his walk. To start with, just lead him over three or four poles, but double the distance between them to begin with – sometimes horses can see poles as a block and think the easy option is to jump them, so by doubling the distance, what they’re being asked to do is made a little clearer. I also think it’s best to lead the horse over the poles first, before riding, because this way you can be there to guide him over. When you move on and start riding him over the poles, make sure you take a light seat so that when he lifts his back it’s free to move.

Release tension hacking uphill

Pole work helps produce an active trot

Upward transitions improve air time

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<trot

is the easiest to develop – a lot can be improved – but the key is not to rush it. If the trot doesn’t come naturally to your horse, don’t push for it. Your job is to help enhance the pace. You need to work towards an active trot by encouraging your horse to spend more time in the air without causing him to be too expressive.

A great way to do this is by using loads of transitions because riding through lots of gears helps to get that activity you’re looking for. For the same reason, lateral work can also be helpful because it makes the hindlegs work quicker, and trotting poles can be used to get a little more air time.

<canter

Using transitions is a great way to get the horse working quicker in front of the leg. But, again, don’t be tempted to let him get too fast over the ground – you want more time in the air but not to get him running.

So, when you’re working in canter, always check that the hindleg is coming through and that he’s holding his regular three-beat tempo. If it starts to feel untidy you need to get him moving forward.

His hind hoof should land into his front print

Over-tracking In walk, trot and canter, when the horse is working forward and coming through from behind, the hind foot should tread into the print of the front foot. This is over-tracking.

In walk, and particularly in free walk, you would want to see the horse’s hindlegs really coming through from behind and sometimes they can over-track by up to 12 inches (30.5 cm). In medium walk the step is shorter but you should still expect to see some over-track.

The mechanics of the horse’s hindlegs mean that they should come up and forwards toward the horse’s belly. Therefore, overtracking indicates that the horse is using his hindquarters correctly and not dragging himself along.

It’s important – particularly in the working, medium and extended paces – but there is, however, lots of debate on whether horses should over-track in collected work.

YOUR HORSE 79

WHAT TO

look FOR

Why should you use tendon boots or fetlock boots?

Tendon boots are used only for the front legs and designed for use when show jumping.

They protect the tendons down the back of the foreleg if it’s struck by the horse’s hindleg when he’s jumping.

Most tendon boots will have some form of strike pad down the back of the boots to provide additional protection.

Fetlock boots provide protection to the fragile fetlock area, which is more prone to

being knocked when the horse is jumping. They’re smaller and less bulky than full length boots.

Tendon and fetlock boots are made from a variety of different materials.

Leather looks smart but does take quite a lot of looking after, needing regular cleaning to keep the boots looking good.

Man-made materials are often machine washable, making them much quicker and easier to keep clean.

Ease of fastenings is an important consideration.

Buckle fastenings provide good security but can be fiddly to do up.

Double Velcro straps are also a good option and will hold the boots securely in place – you just need to remember to store them fastened so you don’t get dirt and muck in them, which stops the fastening being so secure.

Wider straps offer greater security and are more comfortable for your horse than narrow straps.

Some fastenings may be elasticated to give a close fit but you need to be careful you don’t fasten them too tight.

hMAoGrAsZINeE your

WINNER

John Whitaker International Tendon Boots £35 Fetlock Boots £25 THE MANUFACTURER SAYS

Tendon Boots Moulded breathable shell and shock absorbing lining.

Colour Grey Size Full Fetlock Boots Moulded breathable shell and shock absorbing lining. Also has John Whitaker signature ‘flag’ insert and a Union Jack insert.

Colour Grey Size Full

OUR TESTER SAYS These boots fit all my horses well. They’re easy to use and lightweight.

The only thing I didn’t like were the slightly narrower elasticated Velcro straps on the tendon boots – I don’t feel these are as effective and comfortable for the horse as the 2in straps. They didn’t move but would look more in balance with a wider strap.

The hind boots fitted very well and offer good all-round protection.

The signature ‘flag’ in the hind boot will attract buyers, but there’s no doubt that these boots are the best value and protection available for the money.

We also found them very easy to clean and hard wearing.

VERDICT 91⁄2/10 82 YOUR HORSE

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THE

TEST tendon and fetlock boots

KM Elite Fetlock and Tendon Boots £34.99 for the set THE MANUFACTURER SAYS Used by professional show

jumpers. Double Velcro closure protection boots.

Sizes Full and pony Colours Black, brown and white OUR TESTER SAYS These boots have a hard-wearing outer and look nice and workman-like. My first impression was that they looked quite big and not as sleek as some of the other boots I tested. However, these boots did look much better once they were on the horse, and the wide Velcro straps held the boots securely in place. They also felt slightly heavier than some of the others.

The fetlock boots stayed in place well with an easy-to-fasten double Velcro strap. They’re easy to clean, which is important to us, and can be put in the washing machine.

I was surprised to see the price of these boots – less than £35 for a full set. Very good value for money for a boot that should still look in good condition after some heavy use.

hMAoGrAsZINeE

✔ your

BEST BUY

VERDICT 9/10

Equilibrium Tri-Zone Tendon Boots £54.95 Fetlock Lite Boots £24.95 THE MANUFACTURER SAYS Tendon Boots Vented

✔

hMAoGrAsZINeE your

RECOMMENDED

boots to reduce overheating.

Tough outer shell with impactabsorbing inner lining.

Sizes Medium or large Colours Black, brown or white Fetlock Boots Designed for BSJ Young Horse classes, so as not to affect a horse’s natural action.

Sizes Medium/large Colours Brown, black or white OUR TESTER SAYS The tendon boots offer maximum protection and fit very well but appear to look bulky compared to some of the other boots. I think this is because the vents appear to be added on to the boots instead of incorporated into them. However, the vents in the tendon boots do

work – the horses don’t sweat so much in them.

Because both the Velcro and elastic are top quality, you have make sure the elastic is stretched, or it’s easy to leave them too loose when new. When they’re correctly fitted they do not move. We’ve also found them very easy to clean.

I liked the look of these boots and feel they’re good value for money.

The Fetlock Lite boots are useful brushing boots. They fit well, offer full protection and don’t move.

These boots are encouraged in BSJ Young Horse classes as there’s no elastic and they promote the horse’s natural movement behind.

Again, they’re very easy to clean and extremely good value for high quality, full protection boots.

VERDICT 81⁄2/10 www.yourhorse.co.uk/subscribe

� YOUR HORSE 83

The expert � Claire Lilley competes

regularly from Novice level to Grand Prix on horses that she’s backed and trained herself. She’s been passing on her knowledge to riders of all levels for the past 30 years, both in the UK and abroad, and currently runs her own training centre in Wiltshire.

D

ressage is the dance of the equestrian world.

The aim is to float and glide across the arena like a couple of ballroom dancers from the 1920s. And just as dancers have a leading leg to help maintain their balance, horses do, too.

“Canter is a one-sided gait. It’s either led by the right leg or by the left leg, depending on what rein you’re riding on,” Claire explains.

“If you’re on the right rein, on the ‘correct’ or right canter lead, your horse’s right foreleg will be leading.

If you’re on the left rein, the left fore leg should be leading.” Basically, your horse’s inside fore leg should always be leading, when riding in true canter.

“It’s important to be able to control which canter lead your horse is on, as being on the wrong lead will affect his balance and make it impossible for him to perform dressage movements correctly,” says Claire. “It’s also important if you jump. Being on the correct lead when going round a course can make all the difference when producing a winning round.”

When checking your horse’s canter lead visually, make sure you don’t lean forward over the inside shoulder, otherwise your shift in weight may cause him to change onto the wrong leg

Breaking down the beats To understand canter leads it’s crucial that you have a clear picture of what your horse’s legs are doing when he’s cantering.

“Canter has three beats with at least one foot touching the ground,” explains Claire.

“These three footfalls are evenly spaced and are followed by a period of suspension

where all four legs are off the ground. The three beats and suspension are considered to be one stride.

“When a horse strikes off with his outside hind, his inside fore will be the last leg on the ground before the period of suspension, and will therefore be the leading leg.”

The movement for one stride is as follows:

Top Tipside

’s in Your horse uld o sh g le fore ading le e b s y a alw g in in d when ri r te n ca true

1

Beat

The outside hindleg hits the ground, the other three legs are off the ground

2

Beat

The inside hindleg and outside foreleg hit the ground. The inside foreleg is still off the ground.

The outside hindleg is still touching the ground, but is about to be lifted

3

Beat

The inside foreleg hits the ground. The outside hindleg is off the ground. As the inside hindleg and outside foreleg are lifted off the ground, the inside foreleg is the only foot supporting the horse’s weight and is visibly reaching forwards furthest

88 YOUR HORSE

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Riding Canter leads cracked

4

Suspension – the horse has all four legs off the ground

Getting a feel for it

Now you can picture what your horse’s legs are doing in your mind’s eye, you need to learn to feel what they’re doing.

“Imagine your body has four columns running through it – two at the front and two at the back,” says Claire. These columns run side by side and each moves independently.

You’ll be able to feel your horse’s movement through these columns and, in time, you’ll learn to read what the feeling says about your horse’s movement.”

You can practise developing feel in any pace. Start with walk and see if you can tell which hindleg is moving when. “At first it’s helpful to have someone on the ground to call out right, left, right, left,” says Claire. “Then have a go at calling out the movement yourself.”

When you have the hang of this, try doing the same thing in trot. “You’ll need to be able to sit softly to the trot in order to feel the movement,” says Claire. “It can take a while to get in tune with your horse’s strides, but it will ultimately help you to improve all aspects of your riding.”

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you don’t lean to the inside. You want a little more g in tt si e ant to rid weight in your It’s import r the fo n io at ar trot in prep tion. It’ll be inside stirrup, si canter tran ficult to pick if but you don’t d re o m k for much oment to as want to the right m u’re rising, canter if yo e able to overload the b t as you’ll no hindlegs inside of your e feel what th ing horse’s back as this are do will block his hindleg from coming through and may well cause him to strike off on the wrong leg.

“Once you have your horse on a circle, go into sitting trot and put your ‘feel’ into practice.

The idea is to ask your horse to move his outside hindleg first.

If you’re able to do this, you’ll find yourself on the correct lead every time.

“Your hips and legs will move outside, inside at the same time as your horse’s Canter transitions are all about preparation hindlegs go outside, inside,” says Claire. and asking at the right moment, not “As you feel his outside hind come up shooting off on a wing and a prayer. underneath you, ask for canter and you’ll In order to encourage the correct strike get the correct strike off. Although it’s the off, your horse needs to be flexed slightly inside fore that leads, it is the outside hind to the inside. “Riding on a 20m circle will that strikes off.” help you to establish the required bend,” Practise riding canter, trot, canter advises Claire. “As you turn, make sure transitions on your circle. Ask for upwards

Riding sitting trot will help you feel what your horse’s legs are doing

Top Tip

When and where to ask?

YOUR HORSE 89

�

Deal or no deal?

Well mannered, good to box, shoe and clip

108 YOUR HORSE

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Buying from a dealer

Dressage prospect, will be a champion

Excellent all-rounder, loves jumping

Hunter, never pulls, soars over hedges

Finding your perfect horse will always include a touch of lady luck but could going to a dealer give you greater protection and offer you your best buy?

Anna Bruce investigates

F

ed up spending hours on the phone and trudging across the country to find the right horse?

Making an appointment at a dealing yard could be the answer – a chance to view a selection of horses who fit into the age, sex, height, experience and price parameters you’ve set, in an environment designed to help you achieve your aims.

In a professional yard you should be able to have a cup of tea or coffee and use a loo on arrival, see the horses in the stable, trotting up in-hand, and demonstrated as per your requirements on the flat and over fences. Depending on the experience of the horses you’re viewing, you can watch them loose jumping or cross-country schooling If they seem suitable, you can then have a go yourself, including hacking out alone or in company as you wish.

There is little more you could reasonably expect to experience before buying, so the

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dealer, who relies on fast turnover for his profits, will encourage you to make your intentions known. Often a cash deposit is expected on the spot.

Buying from a dealer saves time, and there are the acilities to give the horse a fair trial as discussed above but you need to consider some words of caution.

Firstly – it’s not always wise to reveal your budget. If you do so, you could find many horses magically reaching it and several other strong contenders temptingly just exceeding it!

Secondly ­– remember that selling is the dealers’ livelihood.

They employ good riders who are masters at showing these horses for case studies off to the best of their and legal advice ability. In the comparatively short time

turn the page YOUR HORSE 109

Tip top tack

Buying tack is an investment that with the correct care will last for years – but it needs the right products to keep it performing as you want

I

f you don’t care for your leather tack correctly it will eventually become stiff and brittle. It could then break when you’re using it – not a nice thought.

The range of products available to help you keep your tack looking and feeling great has grown over the years.

There’s no need to spit on your bar of saddle soap anymore as there are products that make cleaning your tack quick and easy, leaving you with soft, conditioned leather.

When you’re choosing which products you want to use, take some time to read the labels. They’re all designed to do different things, whether it’s conditioning, nourishing or softening, and you’ll want different products at different times, depending on what your leather needs.

New leather

New leather may be a little stiff to begin with but the application of something like neatsfoot oil will help nourish it and make it supple.

Be careful not to apply too much and allow time for the oil to soak

leather so there’s no need to use any water.

Some also help stop mould growth.

Apply a leather cream to nourish the leather. Be careful not to apply too much as it may make it sticky.

Get into the daily routine of caring for your tack. It will be worth it in the long run as it will save you time, energy and money.

Weekly care

Now’s the time to take your bridle apart and give it a really good clean.

Using warm water and a damp cloth, give all your leather a good wipe over, paying particular attention to the side that sits against your horse – removing all dirt and grease.

Check it over thoroughly for signs of cracking and look at any stitching.

Allow the leather to dry naturally before applying tack conditioner, which will condition and protect your bridle.

New leather may benefit from the application of oil

Storing tack

into the leather before you use it.

Always keep a close eye on any new tack to make sure it isn’t rubbing your horse – areas prone to rubbing include around the headpiece, browband and noseband.

Daily care Keep your tack clean and it will last for years

126 YOUR HORSE

A quick wipe over with a damp cloth to remove any dirt and sweat should suffice, or you can use a tack cleaning spray. These lift built up grease and dirt off the

Look for a product that will prevent mould growth. Apply a good layer to both sides of the leather to help it stay supple and protected. It’s important to make sure any tack is clean and dry before you put it away.

Where you keep your tack is also an important consideration – many tack rooms can be cold and damp.

This environment isn’t ideal and can lead to mould forming on the leather if it’s not properly cared for.

Ideally your tack room should be warm and dry, but be careful it isn’t too warm, otherwise your tack will dry out.

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tack care

ularly Check stitching reg

A warm, dry tack room is ideal

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Nicola Slater, technical advisor for Carr & Day & Martin, knows a thing or two about leather and caring for it!

Saddle soap This doesn’t clean tack!

Soaps are essentially made up of fats and so are conditioners for the leather. We’ve changed the name of our Belvoir Saddle Soap to Belvoir Tack Conditioner to avoid the confusion. All tack must be clean before applying a saddle soap.

Water This is damaging towards leather.

Water draws out moisture from tack and so huge amounts should be avoided.

People still put tack in water to soak which, once dry, will leave leather dry and brittle, and will then need intensive conditioning.

Water and washing up liquid Leather in normal terms is skin and so should be treated in the same way.

Washing up liquid is designed to strip grease but using it on leather will also strip the finishes that have been skillfully applied to give it its durability and quality.

Oils There are many variations of how people think oils should be used. Oil should be applied little and not too often. I’ve heard many a person say they apply oil until it doesn’t soak in any more or they leave it in a bucket to soak for 24 hours.

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Enter at A –

graze at X!

Silly mistakes can spoil your chances of dressage success. Here judges tell us their pet hates – so you can avoid them Words Helen Milbank Cartoons Patrick Latham

I

f there’s something guaranteed to see your dressage scores take a tumble, it’s stupid mistakes that annoy the judges and throw away marks. Sloppy riding, lack of preparation, poor turnout, failing to ride your corners correctly – these will all knock you down the order faster than you can say shoulder-in.

The good news is that such faults

30 YOUR HORSE

are easily avoided, provided you train correctly, plan ahead and gain a little insider knowledge into what makes dressage judges tick.

To help you on your way to dressage success, we’ve asked judges to share their pet hates. Read on – and make a mental note never to repeat the same mistakes that get them grumbling and that they see again and again.

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