YourLuxury Africa April 2023 issue

A fashion-forward journey

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REVOLUTIONARY THREADS: Laduma Ngxokolo’s latest collection for MAXHOSA

AFRICA is a feast of colour and creativity and a lesson in sustainability

28

MODERN MARKETPLACE: African fashion is on the rise. Visit our curated selection of emporiums and design stores to see why

30

TREND REPORT: For FW23, runways were peppered with pops of colour and fresh takes on classic silhouettes

34

KARROO, LAND OF THIRST: Lezanne Viviers pays tribute to the harsh Karoo landscape in her FW23 collection at Milan Fashion Week

THIS MONTH WE WELCOME acclaimed designer Laduma Ngxokolo to YourLuxury as our guest fashion director. The talented creative has had his work exhibited around the world – from the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C. to New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MOMA). He has also appeared at international fashion weeks and his label, MAXHOSA AFRICA, is a Xhosa-inspired luxe fashion brand that has captured the hearts of South Africans.

Laduma believes sustainability and luxury can be intertwined and his new collection, which aptly launches on Earth Day (22 April) at Nirox Sculpture Park just outside of Johannesburg, epitomises the concept of slow fashion. With the ethical sourcing of raw materials, the use of local communities for manufacturing and a commitment to quality with the aim of not having to replace garments, the MAXHOSA AFRICA winter collection is both mindful and intentional.

With a creative of Laduma’s calibre, the journey is ongoing and the brand evolving.

“We’re pretty much educating ourselves – reimagining our culture, teaching our consumers about sustainable fashion and reconnecting with our world,” he says. To read more about his vision and for a fashion feast, courtesy of Laduma and the MAXHOSA AFRICA team, turn to page 18.

We hope you enjoy this beautiful fashionfocused issue.

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MY TOP PICKS

FROM THE EDITOR

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Montblanc Signature Absolue EDP

EDITORIAL: ACTING & BEAUTY EDITOR Ingrid Wood ingrid@yourluxury.africa

MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure matthew@yourluxury.africa

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kate Walters

COPY EDITOR Tamlyn Cumings PROOFREADER Leigh Herringer leigh@yourluxury.africa IMAGE EDITOR Coralie Elske PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Rachael Akerman rachael@yourluxury.africa

ADVERTISING & MARKETING: MD Yvonne Shaff +27 (82) 903 5641 I yvonne@yourluxury.africa

MANAGEMENT: MANAGING DIRECTOR & PUBLISHER Yvonne Shaff

ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Yvette Mehl + 27 (21) 439 4907 I yvette@yourluxury.africa

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly

jacquie@yourluxury.africa

DISTRIBUTION & PRINT: DISTRIBUTION

On the Dot, Media Support PRINTED BY Novus Print for YourLuxury: PO Box 1053, Sea Point 8060, Cape Town. All rights reserved. Whereas precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of information, neither the editor nor YourLuxury Africa can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injury or damages that may arise. The opinions expressed in the articles may not reflect those of the publisher. All prices correct at time of going to print.

yourluxury.africa

Woven trousers and jacket, silk shirt and Atelier dress, all by MAXHOSA AFRICA. Necklace, Charles Greig. Artwork: Mary Sibande – Shirt. Photographer: David Blaq

Fope 18ct gold mesh chain necklace

Louis Vuitton Taigarama Weekend Tote

Dolce & Gabbana rabbit-print poplin midi dress and nature-print shopper bag

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

A NEW DIRECTION

Under the stewardship of Trevyn and Julian McGowan, Southern Guild Gallery has represented and presented the finest functional art and design from across Africa since its inception in 2008. From 13 to 16 April, the gallery’s stable of exceptional talent will be exhibited at EXPO Chicago for the first time. Renowned artists such as Zanele Muholi, Jeanne Gaigher, Stanislaw Trzebinski and Zizipho

Poswa will show groundbreaking new work, including some that shift our perceptions of the potential of materials in multidisciplinary ways.

southernguild.co.za

CROWNING GLORY

King Charles III and Camilla, The Queen Consort, will be coronated on Saturday 6 May at Westminster Abbey, and the UK is buzzing with plans and preparations.

On our Coronation radar:

• Crown to Couture – from 5 April until 29 October – is a remarkable new fashion exhibition at Kensington Palace curated by Alexander McQueen’s production designer Joseph Bennett. It draws parallels between the traditional court dressing of the 18th century and iconic red-carpet looks of the modern era. Visit hrp.org.uk for ticket information and recommended advance bookings.

• A visit to The Goring hotel in Belgravia, London, for a quintessentially British afternoon tea, which now features King Charles III’s favourite cakes, finger sandwiches and sweet treats with CRIII insignia. Afternoon tea is in the Veranda from Monday to Sunday, 12:30pm – 4:30pm and The Dining Room on Saturdays at the same time. From £75pp, which includes a glass of Bollinger. Dress code and reservation details are available at thegoring.com

DESIGN DEGUSTATION

In an unprecedented move, June, July and August will see a fusion of the biggest and most respected design exhibitions on the continent. Decorex, 100% Design Africa and Design Joburg are consolidating with the new Cape Town and Joburg Decor & Design Weeks to present these cities with the top African design talent, from 19 June to 6 August. In addition to the many exhibitions, we’re looking forward to the Future Talks series where design authorities will talk about today’s design news, challenges and trends.

Decorex.co.za | 100percentdesign.co.za | designjoburg.com

FASHION FOR ART

Following Chanel creative director Virginie Ward’s Métiers d’Art Collection in Dakar last year, the fashion house championed Senegal’s rich culture and vibrant diversity by collaborating on a three-month exhibition in the city’s historic Plateau District. Sur le Fil (On the Thread) included 40 works highlighting the synergy between contemporary creativity and the traditional practices of weaving and embroidery.

The exhibition is being reactivated from May to July at La Galerie du 19M – part of Chanel’s multidisciplinary arts and craftsmanship hotspot in Paris.

le19m.fr/en

Yassine Mekhnache

PHOTOGRAPHER CLÉMENT GUILLAUME

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There, we share news and views about the ultimate luxury lifestyle, with carefully curated content from all over Africa and beyond. From food to fashion, wine to watches, wheels to wings and fragrance to fine art – it’s all there in one exquisite online space. And don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and Facebook too.

MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS

BINWE ADEBAYO

Binwe is an internationally published writer and editor, as well as a researcher, strategist and Mellon Foundation Media Studies Scholar. She’s interested in politics and pop culture and writes about art, film, books, fashion and design, and is the contributing editor at NATAAL (UK) and CNN Style (US/UK). “For me, luxury lies in the once-ina-lifetime – whether that’s an unforgettable print or a one-of-one designer piece.”

See: p18

NORMA YOUNG

Norma is a Johannesburgbased writer and editor. She has worked in print and broadcasting for media houses including Media24 and eNCA, and her writing has been published by the likes of Mail & Guardian, City Press, Destiny, Quartz and Al Jazeera, among others. “Luxury is a feeling that things are exactly as they should feel, sound, taste and look. It’s a joyful sense that something was made for me.”

See: p38

RICHARD HOLMES

Richard is a travel writer from Cape Town. He spends plenty of time at 35 000 feet, but when he’s home – and not catching a wave on the Muizenberg backline – he loves hitting the gravel roads of the Western Cape. “For me, the ultimate luxury is time, the freedom to get off the busyness of the day-to-day and stop. Breathe. And spend time with loved ones. And if that time is spent on a tropical island – so much the better.”

See: p42 and p46

THOBEKA MBANE

Thobeka is a South Africanbased fashion stylist and creative director whose work focuses on Black women and queer bodies. “I have specifically chosen to focus on them because I love boldness and colour, and some of the biggest fashion moments were created by either Black women or Black queer bodies. I’m big on collaborations because I strongly believe we can tell these stories together.”

See: p20

AS THE WRISTWATCH MOVED AWAY from simply being an essential tool for timekeeping to a fashion accessory, the use of colours on the dial, bezel and strap has assumed unprecedented significance. It’s become an art within the art of watchmaking, with craftsmen carefully selecting hues that complement the

overall aesthetic and enhance the watch’s appeal. Rolex, for example, says the various hues that adorn the dials of its watches are a mixture of “high-level physics, exquisite judgement and pure chemistry”. Here’s how the strategic use of different colours can elevate the status of a watch as a stylish fashion accessory.

ADD SOME COLOUR TO YOUR WRIST

UP YOUR STYLE QUOTIENT WITH THESE WATCHES AND THEIR INTERESTING

LONGINES

Legend Diver in bronze

The Legend Diver is a modern-day reinterpretation of a Longines diver’s watch from the 1960s. While the range now includes several colourways, the one that does justice to the Legend’s old-world charm is issued in bronze with a titanium case back and deep green dial. The Ref. L3.774.1.50.2 watch is powered by the Caliber L888 automatic movement. longines.com/en-za

NOMOS Club Campus in deep pink

Based in Germany, the Nomos Glashütte is traditionally known for its minimalist and elegant Bauhaus-inspired dress watches. With the Club Campus line, the brand aims to appeal to a younger crowd with its lively vibe and flashy colours. The most daring of these is the Reference 711 with its deep-pink dial and orange seconds hand within the subdial. A must-have in your watch box if you’re a bit more daring. nomos-glashuette.com

yourluxury.africa

TUDOR Black Bay Chrono S&G

If you don’t want to go with hues like green, bronze or pink and would rather stick with the triedand-tested combination of black and gold, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G is your best bet. The latest variant in the steel and gold line essentially reverses the dial aesthetics of the previous Black Bay Chronograph S&G from 2019. The two versions offer dials in a matt black or champagne coloured sunray satin finish with two recessed sub-counters in contrasting colours. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with an insert in black anodised aluminium with a tachymetric scale completes the high-contrast look. The steel and yellow gold bracelet option retails for R132 400, and the fabric strap timepiece will set you back R108 650. tudorwatch.com

PANERAI

Submersible QuarantaQuattro Verde Smeraldo

Although known for experimenting passionately with materials, Panerai’s watches are generally subdued in terms of hues, with mostly strap colours available. But at Watches & Wonders last year, the watchmaker introduced the 44mm Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel with a polished green gradient dial and bezel. It’s an aesthetic addition that’s also symbolic of its sustainability credentials – recycled materials make up 52 percent of the total weight of the watch. This is the one if you want to look fashionably sustainable. panerai.com

WORDS SONY THOMAS

Elegance is an attitude

Regé-Jean Page

EARLY EACH YEAR, CHRISTOPHER GREIG AND HIS TEAM VISIT VICENZA, ITALY, TO ATTEND ONE OF THE LARGEST JEWELLERY FAIRS IN THE WORLD. WE ASKED HIM TO SHARE WHAT HE SAW AND WHERE JEWELLERY DESIGN IS HEADED

GOLD, GOLD AND MORE GOLD – and extralarge gold, at that. This sums up the latest international jewellery trends, according to Christopher Greig of Charles Greig Jewellers, when we asked him to share what’s trending

100% YELLOW GOLD “For about 30 years, white gold has dominated the world of fine jewellery. But in the past two years, yellow gold (and a touch of rose gold) has eclipsed white gold completely. This time, gold is bold and heavy – it reminds me of the gold jewellery in the 70s and 80s. Chains are extremely chunky and the gold is polished; there’s no sign of brushed gold.”

“In terms of necklace lengths, we’re looking at short chokers or extremely long chains. It’s extreme and dramatic –nothing in between. The yellow gold is bolder than I have seen it in 50 years, despite the rising price of gold. Bangles are large and cuffs are broad; it’s all about standing out.”

ON THE DELICATE SIDE

“As a complete dichotomy to the bold world of gold – but also part of this extreme theme – we’re seeing delicate peronalised jewellery. The most popular are fine chains with charms, discs, dog tags and else anything meaningful. People are looking for things they can relate to; that tell the story of their lives. These delicate chains are often worn long.”

“There is a strong nature theme in jewellery now. The bee has always been in style, and we love a frog at Charles Greig. There’s a movement to plant life so we have created a charming herb necklace featuring delicate herb leaves. This botanical trend is not a look we have seen before.”

“In keeping with the nature trend, the colour green is huge when it comes to stones. We are even doing green engagement rings! The precious stone tsavorite is becoming increasingly popular. Known as the African emerald, tsavorite is mined in East Africa. The green is bolder than that of an emerald, and the stone is harder.”

AN EARTHY WINTER “As we move into winter, we’ll be seeing people wearing more earthy shades, such as smoky topaz, quartz, citrines and garnets. It’s part of a move towards earthy tones and, again, a reference to nature.”

SMOOTH LINES “The cabochon cut has become popular in recent years and works perfectly in over-scaled pieces and stones. It was popular 20 years ago and is definitely back in favour.”

HOOPS ARE BIG “The go-to earrings are enormous, thick hoops. The wider and bolder, the better.”

BLACK MAGIC “We’re seeing a revival of stones like black onyx and black spinel. They are timeless and chic and work beautifully with the bold gold movement.”

charlesgreig.co.za ■

WORDS JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY

STYLISH

Brand on!

PACKAGING, SUPERLATIVE INGREDIENTS, BEAUTIFUL ELIXIRS… THERE’S SOMETHING INTENSELY APPEALING ABOUT DESIGNER-LED BEAUTY AND ACCESSORIES

COMPILED BY INGRID WOOD

Louis Vuitton Spirit Chapter 11 Destiny diamond and ruby earrings, R7 435 000 (made to order), louisvuitton.com

Paco Rabanne Fame 50ml EDP, R1 975, Dis-Chem

Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal 50ml EDP, R1 795, Dis-Chem

Chanel No.1 Revitalizing Cream with red camellia, R2 050, Woolworths

Dolce & Gabbana SS23 choker, R 20 750, dolcegabbana.com

Dolce & Gabbana Blush of Roses Luminous Cheek Colour, R965, Woolworths

FASHION MAY BE A GREAT WAY TO EXPRESS YOURSELF, BUT THE FRAGRANCE IS WHAT TIES IT ALL TOGETHER

COMPILED BY INGRID WOOD

FOR A NIGHT ON THE TOWN Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme 100ml EDT, R2 080, Foschini

FOR THE GLOBETROTTER Acqua Di Parma Colonia Eau de Cologne 50ml, R1 900, Woolworths and Skins Cosmetics

FOR A BLACK-TIE EVENT Givenchy Gentleman Society 100ml EDP, R2 480, Edgars

FOR AN IMPORTANT MEETING Paco Rabanne Phantom 100ml EDT, R1 915, Dis-Chem

FOR A WEEKEND GETAWAY Chanel Allure Homme Sport All-Over Spray 100ml, R 1 680, Chanel Beauty and Fragrance Boutiques and select Woolworths and ARC stores

TO CELEBRATE THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF FOR HER, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PARFUMS PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE CLASSIC SCENT

THE LEGEND

THIS YEAR, WE CELEBRATE the birth of an icon. The story of Narciso Rodriguez For Her started 20 years ago, spanning two continents. The renowned fashion designer, Narciso Rodriguez, was inspired to tell a story of eternal feminine beauty, allure and grace through fragrance – something he had already been doing through his imitable fashion since 2001.

“Both fragrance and fashion contribute so much to the way a woman is perceived, so it’s only logical that both should be conceived from the same aesthetic and the same process,” Narciso explains. “I wanted to make a fragrance that was addictive, sensual and eternally beautiful.” The designer collaborated with celebrated perfumers Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdijan, with whom he shared inspirations drawn from the mystical sands of Egypt and the bustling Orient. A vial of rare Egyptian musk and an evocative smoky black Chinese snuff bottle kick-started the For Her journey through a symbiosis of the rich chypre of musk oil and an alchemy of florals with hints of wood. This was complemented by a bottle design inspired by the sophisticated smoky black of the snuff bottle. For Her was the result of three brilliant minds combining to create what has become an instantly recognisable emblem of the house of Narciso Rodriguez. Musc, Narciso’s personal signature scent for many years, weaves its way mystically through the scent of For Her. “I couldn’t imagine creating a fragrance without musk,” Narciso says. “It has such an air of individuality. Musk’s raw power is very seductive and lends itself to unique permutations for each woman who wears it, which is quite magical.” The scent is complemented by the artistry of the flacon design –a smoky black interior floating in transparent glass; a technical feat at the time.

Creating

THE TRIBUTE

What better way to celebrate an icon than with a tribute? For Her Forever is Narciso Rodriguez Parfums Sonia Constant’s ode to For Her Eau de Toilette. She accented the original osmanthus blossom – one of the most identifiable characteristics of the first fragrance – by bringing in exotic frangipani and luxurious gardenia, tuberose and woody patchouli. All of this contained in a flacon that plays with a delicate ombre of blush pink and charcoal black – the colours associated with For Her.

THE COLLECTION

Every scent in the For Her range is a celebration and interpretation of Musc, the original inspiration behind the creation of this iconic perfume.

FOR HER EAU DE PARFUM

Pink floral notes weave their way through this scent. They are highlighted by rose, soft amber, peach pulp and patchouli. The interior flacon is blush pink, which is a nod to the packaging of For Her Eau de Toilette.

FOR HER PURE MUSC

Musk takes centre stage in the complex arrangement of orange blossom, cashmere, ylang ylang and jasmine notes. Pure musk is designed as a base scent, allowing the wearer to customise their unique fragrance by layering other scents in the range.

FOR HER MUSC NOIR

The most beguiling perfume of the evening, Musc Noir takes rich leather, suede and dark luscious plum as its profile. Heliotrope, rose and white cedar play off the intense base of musk in a translucent flacon.

FOR HER MUSC NOIR ROSE

This is the newest addition to the collection and paints a scent profile of close intimacy through pink peppercorn, vibrant tuberose and oriental vanilla, all grounded by a base of patchouli.

narcisorodriguez.com/fragrance ■

an Icon

THE FACE

Carmen Kass, photographed by legendary duo Inez and Vinoodh for the Narciso Rodriguez fashion collection, became the face of For Her. With her hair in a classic braid, she resembles the original Grecian muses and was indeed the inspiration for the scent. Narciso picked her image as being representative of the aspects of feminine beauty and power that he aimed to emulate through his fragrance. Now, Lola Nicon steps into this role. Inez and Vinoodh once again manage to catch a moment of mystery, allure and power in a fresh interpretation of woman through an interplay of light and shadow accented by pink, for a new generation of For Her.

FASHION BRAND MAXHOSA AFRICA IS AN EVOLVING STORY OF LUXURY, HERITAGE AND EARTH-FRIENDLY FASHION, AND CREATOR LADUMA NGXOKOLO IS SETTING HIS OWN RULES

AFRICAN STYLE IS INCREASINGLY DOMINATING the fashion highway, and MAXHOSA AFRICA is firmly in the fast lane. The brand boasts a wide range of retail stores, a vast network of return clients and the love of celebrities like Beyoncé, Jidenna, Alicia Keys and Dwayne Wade — not to mention the local stars who regularly don the label. But while things have moved quickly for this powerhouse luxury brand, its creator, Laduma Ngxokolo, has fully embraced a slow fashion approach, particularly in his most recent collection, which launches this month on Earth Day.

Like many buzzword concepts, ‘slow fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ mean something different to everyone. Originally conceptualised in development studies, the notion of sustainable products and practices has found its way into the threads of fashion brands; even the luxury ones. So what does sustainability look like for Laduma? When I talk to him about this, his response is precise. “It’s about taking care of the environment and understanding that the contribution we make isn’t for while we’re still alive, but for the future,” he shares.

It’s this precision of thought that feeds into all elements of the label. As a foundation, the designs are reflections of indigenous patterns and colour use; flawless knitwear, but also an ode to community. While Sandton City’s Diamond Walk or MAXHOSA AFRICA’S store in the Mall of Africa come to mind when thinking about luxury shopping, Laduma took the brand to his hometown of Gqeberha – a space not necessarily associated with luxury; indeed, quite the opposite. To his mind, the millennial and GenZ consumers are waiting in the wings in their communities, so there’s an opportunity to serve a younger customer who wants sustainable wear, and the chance to get ahead of the brands who dismiss them.

Ultimately, all consumers should be able to enjoy luxury, and in this way, it could even be said that the democracy of his practice is the driver of Laduma’s sustainable (and frankly gorgeous) new collection, which launches on 22 April. The event, described as a fashion festival, will take place at the Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind, outside Johannesburg, an apt location for celebrating both luxury and sustainability.

At ground zero, the creation of this collection has involved the careful (and ethical) sourcing of raw materials, the inclusion of local communities in the manufacturing of the product, liveable wages for all and because of the commitment to quality, a guaranteed sense that not even one jersey, skirt or shirt will need replacing. It could even be saved as a heritage heirloom to be passed down. It’s a bold approach, considering many luxury brands peeking their heads into the slow fashion space often cut corners for clout.

It’s not a complete surprise since, historically, sustainability and luxury have been thought of as polar opposites. One espouses excess, while the other espouses humility – or at least that tends to be the generic view. Laduma sees this very differently, especially in Africa.

“Even when we conceptualise new ideas, we want to take our approach to sustainability into the luxury space. We’ve got to explain to our consumers what that means so that they quickly realise there are more reasons to shop sustainably than not to. These shoppers are in a position of influence and have the power to make decisions to help us take the message even further. Luxury is not new to Africans and we’ve always been sustainable about the way we do it at MAXHOSA AFRICA.”

Laduma is a deeply philosophical creator, evolving his thinking as he develops himself. This has resonated with others, and in 2021 he was honoured with the Best Luxury Heritage Brand at Paris Fashion Week – a far cry from his early days as a young graduate and designer. However, amidst the acclaim, he’s had to fight off knock-offs and take on big mass-market brands who copy his style, but without his inclusive ethos. Instead, they’re made using cheap materials and often employ exploitative practices.

“With popular culture comes consequences, but it’s still a great opportunity to teach and educate. Yes, I’ve accepted there are people selling counterfeits, and there will always be. But what we really want is customers who understand what we do, and our established clients are incredibly loyal,” says Laduma.

The designer is inspired by Stella McCartney and the late Vivienne Westwood, whose consistency in sustainability are part of their legacies. Similarly for MAXHOSA AFRICA, luxury or not, sustainability is its spine. Pleased and excited about the reception to his new collection, Laduma tells me that working through an evolving definition for the brand is crucial. While some may guess that he operates in the sustainability space or has a future-based label, it’s important for him to cement this for himself.

“We’re pretty much educating ourselves – often reimagining our culture, teaching our consumers about sustainable fashion and reconnecting with our world. I think it’s important to reflect every season because your mind space changes,” he says.

Wrestling with the newest way to encapsulate the line, he turns from designer to writer. “MAXHOSA AFRICA is a luxury institution that seeks to showcase the mother continent for the greatness that it is. The brand seeks to reposition culture on the pedestal as a thought leader in society, for the current and future universe.”

For tickets to the launch of the MAXHOSA AFRICA Fashion Festival, visit nirox.howler.co.za

WORDS BINWE ADEBAYO PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID BLAQ

RIGHT: MAXHOSA denim formal trousers, R17 500; denim jacket, R28 500; T-shirt, R6 200.

M a n on t h e Move

“Even when we CONCEPTUALISE new ideas, we want to take our approach to SUSTAINABILITY into the L UXURY SPACE .”

REVOLUTIONARY THREADS

LADUMA NGXOKOLO’S LATEST COLLECTION FOR MAXHOSA AFRICA IS A FEAST OF COLOUR, A CELEBRATION OF CREATIVITY AND A LESSON IN SUSTAINABILITY

SHOT ON LOCATION AT NIROX SCULPTURE PARK, NIROXARTS.COM PHOTOGRAPHER : DAVID BLAQ PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANTS : DAVID SMITH FANYANE AND TSHEPO ZITHA STYLIST : THOBEKA MBANE MODELS : THULANI AT FABULOUSDOTCOM AND RASAQ AT ICE MODELS GROOMING AND MAKE-UP : LIZ VAN DER MERWE AT RED HOT OPS CLOTHING BY MAXHOSA AFRICA

LEFT: Celestial Being Exhibition 2022

PREVIOUS PAGE:

(Her) MAXHOSA AFRICA Atelier jacket, POR; belt, R7 500; yellow hosiery, R850

(Him) MAXHOSA AFRICA men’s silk long-sleeved shirt, R15 300; trousers, R18 900; headband, R4 100

LEFT:

MAXHOSA AFRICA Atelier dress, POR; choker, R4 100; ring, POR, Charles Greig

BELOW:

MAXHOSA AFRICA Atelier dress, POR; choker, R4 100

All additional accessories and shoes: stylist’s own

MAXHOSA AFRICA doubled-breasted dress, R24 500; men’s trousers, R18 900; headband, R4 100

LEFT:

MAXHOSA AFRICA bib vest, R10 500; wrap skirt, R11 700; choker, R4 100; rings, POR, Charles Greig; Artwork: Youness Atbane – Waterproof Forgiveness

ENHANCED PERFECTION

THE NEW GENERATION LEXUS RX HAS BEEN REIMAGINED TO OFFER AN UNCOMPROMISING VISION OF LUXURY

LEXUS HAS BEEN PIONEERING the luxury crossover car market since 1998, when the brand debuted the original RX 300 and forged an entirely new segment. The Radiant Crossover (RX) range represents the bright new future Lexus envisioned for a sport utility vehicle, being the first to blend the finest elements of a luxury automobile experience with a striking all-terrain vehicle. Heeding the call for increased environmental awareness from clients, Lexus launched its first hybrid electric vehicle (HEV), the RX 400h – the world’s first hybrid luxury crossover vehicle –in 2005. Now it’s time to meet the newest fifth generation RX, symbolising the Lexus spirit of ongoing innovation.

A NEW DESIGN IDENTITY

The new kid on the block looks good from every angle. Its expressive reinterpretation of the signature spindle grille upfront is flanked by a pair of striking headlamps, while the body colour is brought down to the lower edge of the Lexus emblem, emphasising the strength and beauty of the design and grille gradation. The Lexus RX has been moulded to embody power and grace.

Everything about the Lexus RX interior forges a closer connection between the car and driver. As soon as you slip behind the wheel, you’ll notice a focus on the humancentred Tazuna concept; a seat design that facilitates a deeper and more intuitive connection. Steering wheel switches are integrated with the head-up display so you can concentrate on driving, while navigation, audio and other functions can be controlled without taking your eyes off the road. All buttons and switches are close at hand for ease of access.

As an effortlessly smooth drive is important, the Lexus Driving Signature is the development standard for all new Lexus models. This means you can expect greater body rigidity, suspension improvements and a luxuriously balanced sense of quietness that is unaffected by changes in road surface or surrounding environments.

UNRIVALLED PERFORMANCE

Whether you’re exploring the sights and sounds of the urban landscape or hitting dirt roads on the weekend, the all-new RX powertrains are each finely tuned to deliver the dynamic performance you desire. For example, the RX 450h+ (2.5-litre inline-four plug-in hybrid system) delivers class-leading EV range and powerful acceleration performance, while the RX 350h (2.5-litre inline-four hybrid system) provides an exhilarating drive without gobbling your fuel. The RX 350 (2.4-litre turbocharged inline-four) delivers a torque-filled, dynamic driving performance for dedicated petrolheads, while the top-of-the-range RX 500h (2.4-litre turbocharged inlinefour hybrid system), the 2.5-litre PHEV, 2.4-litre turbo as well as the 2.5-litre HEV models are available with allwheel drive configuration.

INNOVATIVE SAFETY TECHNOLOGY

As always, Lexus prioritises safety. Standard features include the Proactive Driving Assist to anticipate risks, such as crossing pedestrians or potential hazards. The Pre-Collision Safety, Dynamic Radar Cruise Control (with an all-speed following function) and Lane Departure Alert come as standard safety features. Should your posture be significantly compromised behind the wheel, the safety system is able to judge whether you’re able to continue driving, with the Abnormal Driver condition response system kicking in and warning others by flashing hazards as the vehicle gradually comes to a stop.

The Lexus RX is available on order and customers are welcome at any Lexus dealership or visit lexus.co.za ■ International model shown.

ICHYULU

Ichyulu is an online concept store showcasing a range of curated pieces from various African brands that are shipped worldwide. Based in Nairobi, Kenya, the store prides itself in celebrating Africa’s diversity and highly skilled craftsmanship, the use of local materials, sustainable practices and custom prints. The pieces stocked are hugely influenced by the relationships the curators have built with the designers they’ve met and loved on their travels – designers who interpret traditional design techniques in a modern way. Some of our favourites include Katush by Katungulu Mwendwa from Kenya, who has a beautiful collection of handwoven jackets known as Dabassah jackets; Inzuki Designs, a Rwandese designer who makes large tassel earrings from colourful dyed sisal; and Ami Doshi Shah’s handcrafted brass jewellery, which incorporates novel fabrication techniques.

ichyulu.com

CELEBRATE AFRICAN DESIGN TALENT BY BROWSING OUR CURATED SELECTION OF THE TOP FASHION EMPORIUMS AND CONCEPT STORES ACROSS THE CONTINENT

WORDS AYANDA NGCOBO

MODERN MARKETPLACE

ALÁRA

West Africa’s first concept fashion store, Alára, was founded in Lagos by Nigerian lawyer-turned-entrepreneur, Reni Folawiyo. Located in a building that was designed by world-renowned Ghanaaian-British architect David Adjaye, it is a beautiful space filled with eye-catching designs and a melting pot of talent. You’ll find everything from clothing to art and decor from some of the continent’s top names, including NigerianBritish designer Duro Olowu and South Africa’s Laduma Ngxokolo. The high-fashion store puts African designers on a pedestal, consciously promoting their brands and investing in home-grown designers.

alaralagos.com

THE VIVA GROUP

Situated in one of Africa’s top travel destinations, Accra, Ghana, the familyowned Viva Group provides two premier shopping experiences in the city’s capital – Viva Boutique and Viva Concept store. Both incorporate the vibrant, eclectic and colourful side of fashion through a clever mix of selected African and international designers, from the likes of Bottega Veneta and Valentino to Banke Kuku and Lisa Folawiyo. The number of jaw-dropping pieces can overwhelm even the most seasoned shopper, so they have gone the extra mile to ensure impeccable customer service, offering personal styling and shopping and alteration services.

instagram.com/vivaboutiquegh

MERCHANTS ON LONG

Premium concept store Merchants on Long was opened in 2010 by Hanneli Rupert on Cape Town’s Long Street. The shop continues to champion African design by supporting a cross-continental range of creatives, from South African favourites such as Thebe Magugu and Lara Klawikowski to Uganda’s Cecily Ophelia and Pepper Row from Nigeria. The curated selection of bespoke, luxury and handmade brands are all sourced and made in Africa. Located in one of the oldest buildings in Cape Town, the space is an experience in itself. It recently underwent a revamp – subtle changes include a wooden back bar designed to mirror the exterior of the building façade and the inclusion of ceramic tiles from French master tilers, Winckelmans Tiles. merchantsonlong.co.za

Travel and

lifestyle

content creator Patricia Blacc (@ patriciablacc): “I absolutely love Kayla Stam. When I visited the store at the V&A Watershed in Cape Town, it was love at first sight. The style is sophisticated, chic and moderately affordable, with modern twists on simple silhouettes. I love the confidence boost I get from the clothing I wear, and that is exactly what this brand does for me. I would recommend it to any woman wanting to look and feel good without breaking the bank.”

B Curated travel curator, Brian Bothelezi (@sbusiso_brian):

“While taking a stroll along the narrow streets of Lamu, Kenya, a few years ago, I discovered Ikeno Clothing – a boutique brand that specialises in linen menswear. Each year a limited collection is displayed in its store, AMAN. Another favourite is Land of Kin at 44 Stanley in Johannesburg, which specialises in semi-bespoke menswear. Each item is tailored to the buyer’s specifications and fit and the high quality makes the items investment pieces that I can wear as daily staples.” ■

MY FAVOURITE STORES

Oh, hello there

THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2023 RUNWAYS WERE A FRESH TAKE ON THE CLASSICS WITH A DELIGHTFUL DOSE OF COLOUR

WINTER IS KNOCKING and it’s shaping up to be a stylish season of reinvented classics with a play on colour and texture. There is a mood of lessis-more in the air for 2023 – less maximalism, minimal prints, embellishment and logos and more of a shift towards beautiful fabrication, classic silhouettes and clean lines.

RED ALERT

The enduring appeal of dopamine-inducing brights continues this winter, but 2022’s obsession with Barbiecore magenta has lost out to the siren shades. Dolce & Gabbana made a strong case for red as the colour of the season with a monochrome and gold collection, punctuated with red vinyl and beautiful chiffon and satin dresses. Red was all over the runways – even in understated, darker shades, with Hermès playing with layered red tones and textures. Dresses and statement hats stood out at Balmain, and red knits featured at Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Ferragamo. Whether you want to go all out with a top-to-toe look or dabble with a scarlet accent, this is the pick-me-up you need to break the monotony of dark winter dressing.

WORDS NOTHEMBA MKHONDO

BALMAIN DOLCE & GABBANA HERM

DOLCE & GABBANA

VICTORIA BECKHAM

ALL THE FEELS

From faux fur to feathers and other textures in between, fabrication is getting playful this season. Fine feathers took flight in an array of permutations like full-feathered coats at Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta, delicate accents at Victoria Beckham and fluffy skirts at Valentino. But the flurry of textures didn’t end there. Faux fur and teddy textures were also runway staples, appearing as bold-coloured, shin-to-ankle-length coats at Alberta Ferretti and Ferragamo, faux fur tuxedo and blazer jackets at Louis Vuitton and faux fur accents on coat lapels at Gucci. And, of course, the faux furs that changed colour under UV lights at Anrealage deserve an honourable mention. Balmain also delighted with its matching mohair knitted sets.

TIMELESS TRENCH

When it comes to wardrobe icons that never go out of style, the trench coat is right at the top of the list. This year, this fashion classic was given a fresh update with sleek fabrication that’s hard to resist. Leather trench coats made an appearance at Alexander McQueen and Tod’s, while Balenciaga presented trenches in snakeskin and leather. Dolce & Gabbana and Alaïa played with vinyl and the trenches at Hermès were reconstructed with quilted fabrics. The classic beige trench, however, still has pride of place on the runway, with more minimalist and iconic iterations appearing at Christian Dior, Givenchy and Celine.

DOLCE & GABBANA

BALENCIAGA

GIVENCHY

DOLCE & GABBANA

DOLCE & GABBANA

GUCCI

SUIT SPOT

As the world emerges from its covid cocoon, tailoring takes on a new approach to style. The real star of the show this season is oversized suiting featuring fluid, wide-leg trousers, as worn by Paul Mescal and Lenny Kravitz on the red carpet at the Oscars in March.

Kenzo played with palazzo-style trousers paired with sneakers and, at Zegna, trousers erred on the side of baggy, but retained their sleek suited appeal. Boxy double-breasted jackets in understated colours made their mark at Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Polished, yet nonchalant suiting is a great way to break the mould, adding shape and movement to new silhouettes.

yourluxury.africa

GUCCI

ZEGNA

DIOR HOMME

LOUIS VUITTON

LOUIS VUITTON

BIG BLUES

From periwinkle to peacock and cobalt to midnight, the menswear collections sang the blues on the runways. Lazuli-blue suits were worn both classically and deconstructed, while oversized bomber and sherpa denim jackets were highlights at Prada and Onitsuka Tiger. Sky-blue trousers were paired with purple for an instant colour statement at Gucci, with shades of grey and brown for more muted looks. Navy blazers paired with deep blue denims were shown at Loro Piana, and then there’s the dashing Idris Elba, who nailed his blue-and-black Gucci ensemble on the red carpet at the Oscars last month. ■

TAKE COVER

As seen at Fendi, Givenchy, AMI Paris, Saint Laurent and Dolce & Gabbana, coats have gone long this season – we’re talking shin-to-ankle grazing and floor-sweeping long. While many designers kept coats classic and minimal in black, grey and brown, some upped the ante with a dose of colour or a graphic print. Long coats made the perfect canvas for prints at Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten, while Gucci played with rich burgundy and rust colours. A great coat is not only practical as a quick cover up, it also makes an instant style statement as it looks great paired with this season’s must-have accessory, the beanie.

DOLCE & GABBANA

AMI PARIS

PRADA LORO PIANA

GUCCI

LOUIS VUITTON

KARROO, LAND OF THIRST

CONCEPTUAL SOUTH AFRICAN DESIGNER LEZANNE VIVIERS PRESENTED A TRIBUTE TO THE STARK KAROO LANDSCAPE IN HER FW23 COLLECTION AT MILAN FASHION WEEK. SHE SHARES THE INSPIRATION BEHIND HER LATEST CONSCIOUS COLLECTION

WORDS JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY

TITLED KARROO, “LAND OF THIRST”, Lezanne Viviers’ FW23 collection is at times as harsh as the landscape that inspired it. However, as the designer says, it’s the ultimate irony that a landscape as arid and apparently lifeless as the Karoo produces cosy and comforting materials like mohair, wool, feathers and leather.

Lezanne, who believes that luxury and humanity are synonyms and should be the key focus for a sustainable future, delivered a live showing of her newest collection, presented as part of the official Milan Fashion Week calendar. This was her first on-site event and was sponsored by Cape Wools and Mohair South Africa.

Karroo, “Land of Thirst” references film photographs that Lezanne took of the Karoo. These images were developed into surrealistic artworks, which merge the collection’s themes of arid landscapes and cosmic horizons with beauty and light. It is an exploration of the changing South African landscapes, both physically and metaphorically. With the help of several local artisans, Lezanne aims to frame South Africa’s abundance of raw materials and the beauty of the Karoo.

The collection is also an ode to Lezanne’s parents who influenced her conscious approach to living. “They taught me how to have respect for things, how to re-use things, how to take care of things and how to recycle things. These became the key creative tools in my subconscious being,” she says.

An important aspect in Lezanne’s approach is to minimise textile waste and the use of deadstock fabrics. “We source the majority of our fabrics from warehouses that have been sitting with deadstock from the 70s. These old materials were made with integrity and did not form part of the current consumer-greed driven fashion industry as we know it today. The quality of the fabrics is exceptional and made to last. These form the base of our materials, which we then print or rework and update.”

For her FW23 collection, Lezanne’s Karoo images are incorporated into unique artworks that are printed on the natural and deadstock fabrics. These are also further explored as a reference to develop artisanal textiles and ultimately inspire the total mood of the collection.

“As I drive through the Karoo at the end of each year, the beautiful road trip allows for a new mind space; that said if I have not checked Instagram that day. Karroo, “Land of Thirst” is inspired by the surreal beauty and the magical landscape that reveals itself through this scorched land

as I leave the challenges of the city, a metaphor for global climate change, behind me. Upon my return, I am charged with new vibrance, an inner silence and a cosy, warm optimism.”

Lezanne says she has always used fashion, as well as beauty, as the language of activism to further explore not only her own identity, but also “how we as humans could co-exist and interact through the language of love and unity as our primary source of communication.”

“Creatively, I nourish myself with just about anything; I continuously rediscover beauty through the senses, often recognising it in articles normally considered mundane, like the recyclers’ trolleys on the streets of Johannesburg,” says Lezanne. Her vision is to bridge the communities that see themselves as mutually exclusive by creating a manifesto where narratives meet in the raw form of the arts. She facilitates an umbrella-like platform where, through the arts, creatives can challenge institutional norms through clothing.

The artist also focuses on a sensual experience. Established in its paradoxes, the boyish/girlishness of the collections’ pieces could be both sophisticated yet rebellious, hard yet soft and organic yet synthetic. The garments are constructed from rare and unusual textiles that make up seamlessly imperfect garments that she strives to cut to perfection.

Lezanne says she’s inspired by Japanese sensibility and how this transmigrates, through her interpretation, in an African context. In Japanese ‘shokunin’ means craftsmanship; however, it exceeds the fact that something is made by hand. It implies that an item is made joyously, considerately, beautifully, but made to the utmost of your capability. This sensibility is shared in ancient African beliefs. Spiritually and materially, shokunin is an approach with a social consciousness which, to Lezanne, blurs the line of arts and crafts. ■

TALKING ABOUT EVOLUTION

EVOLUTION PRODUCT’S AMANDA DU PLESSIS HAS INTERPRETED THE SURROUNDINGS OF GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE TO PRODUCE A MAGICAL COLLABORATION BETWEEN NATURE, DESIGN, FASHION AND ART

WORDS LEIGH HERRINGER

TEXTILE DESIGN COMPANY EVOLUTION PRODUCT is a forerunner in South Africa’s decor and leisure industries. But stylish founder and managing director, Amanda Du Plessis, doesn’t think of herself as a designer or an artist, rather as an interpreter who is inspired by nature and nostalgia to create extraordinary textiles. “Our aim is to create a narrative that speaks to a deep sense of history, place and time,” Amanda says when we meet on an early autumn day at Evolution’s head offices in Johannesburg to talk about her collaborations with Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, the award-winning eco-luxury destination in Gansbaai that’s nestled in one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet.

yourluxury.africa

In February last year, Amanda was asked by Grootbos’ project manager and creative advisor, Tinneke Lutzeyer, and general manager, Sean Ingles, to fine tune the soft furnishings and wall art at the Grootbos Garden and Forest Lodges. Little did she know this would evolve into a year-long passion project or lead to the development of a new range of bespoke silk scarves, which are launching next month. Spending time at Grootbos gave Amanda and her team the freedom to interpret the area’s unique ecosystem and celebrate its heritage using sun prints in the textiles. To create these, the team uses cyanotype techniques that were originally developed

in the 1800s by William Herschel and English botanist, Anna Atkins. Linens are treated with sun-sensitive chemicals and spread out in the sun; the team literally has a few seconds to arrange plants on the fabrics before the chemicals start reacting to the sunlight. The fabrics are then rinsed, leaving silhouettes of the plants behind. They made sun prints of fynbos, proteas and Brunsvigia Orientalis which were then printed, embroidered and jacquard onto wall art, cushions and throws. They also created enlarged wall art featuring pressed sea algae dating back to 1910 – a tribute to the majestic view of the Western Cape coastline at Grootbos.

yourluxury.africa

The team also took visual representations of insects from the Grootbos Entomology department – researched and provided by Grootbos resident artist Chris Lochner – which they interpreted and recoloured into guest towels, bath towels and throws.

“I don’t think I realised how perfect nature is in colouration and design until I looked at a microscopic visual of a butterfly wing,” Amanda enthuses.

In September 2022, Grootbos opened the Hannarie Wenhold Botanical Art Gallery, the first contemporary florilegium in Africa and the first dedicated botanical art gallery in the Southern Hemisphere (the first is the Shirley Sherwood Gallery at Kew Gardens). It houses remarkably detailed artworks of endemic fynbos species and the relationship with their pollinators. The florilegium project has added yet another layer to the eco-luxury offering at Grootbos, but more importantly it echoes the deep commitment to conservation, sustainability and community upliftment that Grootbos Private Nature Reserve and the Grootbos Foundation have pioneered. Over the last 30 years, Grootbos Private Nature Reserve has shown its commitment to progressive luxury tourism. The nonprofit Grootbos Foundation, formally created in 2003, has a 20-year legacy centred around the conservation of the Cape Floral Region and the upliftment of the community therein. “The commitment of our modern-day pioneers, the tangible purity of the environment and the energy I get from the people who are protecting these biospheres, shifts our design process and elevates our creativity,” says Amanda as we talk about the artistry that influenced the design of her scarves.

She was inspired by crimson sunsets at Grootbos, the florilegium, waves crashing against the rocks at De Kelders and even the barnacles on the whales that visit Walker Bay every winter. “Our products evoke emotion, stir memory and embrace a heritage of discovery... they create stories that tell a deeper story of the beauty, fragility and magic of nature,” she says.

Evolution’s exquisite new silk scarf range comes in 11 different designs and was created using print and digital techniques. Each one is more beautiful than the next – a testament to Amanda and her team’s evolving creativity.

A selection of scarves by Evolution Product will be available from mid-May at Grootbos and from evolution.co.za. All the Evolution products created for Grootbos have been developed locally and by manufacturers that adhere to sustainable practices and fair employment. Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is home to more than 800 species of fynbos, of which 81 are endangered. For more information, see grootbos.com and grootbosfoundation.org. ■

INDUSTRIAL DESIGNER SIAN ELIOT BELIEVES ALUMINIUM LIGHT FIXTURES AREN’T JUST ABOUT BRIGHTENING UP SPACES, THEY’RE AN OPPORTUNITY FOR BEAUTIFUL DECOR THAT HAS A LIGHT ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT

WORDS NORMA YOUNG

PARTNERING NATURAL TALENT WITH EDUCATION: Growing up, Sian always enjoyed making things. From a young age, she knew that creating products would be a major part of her life. When she visited the year-end student exhibition at Cape Peninsula University of Technology in 1997, the idea of working with her hands transformed into a career path rather than a mere hobby. “I was blown away by the technical and creative projects being built by the students,” she recalls. The projects she saw led to a decision to formally study industrial design. “The idea behind studying was to help me jump from being a craftsperson to a professional maker. An education in industrial design is very useful… If you’re a maker and understand how to work in the engineering or manufacturing field, the realm of possibility is incredibly broad.”

ON WHAT MAKES HER A GOOD DESIGNER: “I have empathy for the people who use and live with my products. I care about how delightful and uncomplicated the experience of using them is. I’m also rather technically oriented and intuitive with my design, so I am able to come up with unique solutions.”

HER SOURCES OF INSPIRATION: “I’m inspired by the changing sky, sun, clouds, the moon, plants, creatures and all the bodies that surround me daily.”

ON THE PROS AND CONS OF ENTREPRENEURSHIP: Mema Designs, Sian’s lighting design studio in Melville, Johannesburg, provides her with the platform to collaborate with other artists and engineers. While the products were initially developed together with her business partner, Ari Geva, Sian now runs the business solo. She acknowledges that owning a business is unpredictable and challenging with a huge weight of responsibility. “It’s constant, with diverse demands on my attention, together with needing to shoulder the high and sometimes unpredictable costs. It’s not for the faint-hearted,” notes Sian. However, there are many positives, too. “I can work at my own pace and my time belongs to me,” she says.

BUSINESS PRACTICALITIES: As the designer and owner of the business, Sian has to keep logistical matters top-of-mind. A big goal she’s chasing right now is to put the entire collection and all its components and product content into a proper database. She aims to develop a custom-made enterprise management app that gives Mema Designs the ability to export and take on larger, more complex projects.

ON WHY WOVEN ALUMINIUM IS WONDERFUL: “There are so many reasons to love it. It has a light environmental footprint – you get maximum effect and material out of minimum ‘stuff’. It’s also corrosion and dust resistant, so will last a long time. And finally, when the time comes, the products can be put straight back into the recycling process. Aluminium is a pure metal and infinitely recyclable.”

HER ULTIMATE HOME INDULGENCE: “I want a pure wool rug because I prefer to spend time at floor level. A good carpet is all you really need in the world!”

For more information, visit memadesigns.co.za ■

FLASHES OF BRILLIANCE

RENT, RESALE & RE-USE

HAVE A WARDROBE FULL OF CLOTHES but nothing to wear? The solution may be to rent goods and services – specifically, fashion – a trend that’s gaining momentum as the global online rental market is estimated to increase by $3 billion between 2021 and 2026. Recently, premium Parisian label Coperni joined the rental market through a partnership with Hurr, a high-end fashion rental platform that allows clients to hire a designer piece without the price tag. Through these platforms, consumers can access a wider variety of high-end items and try them on before committing to the purchase, while luxury fashion that might only need to be worn once, can be rented. It’s not only environmentally friendly and cost-effective, but a necessary alternative to fast-fashion. Rental spaces like this are launching in South Africa; Closet Runway, a mid-luxury clothing rental service, recently opened in Cape Town.

GENTLY WORN

Luxury brands are also embracing the second-hand market more and more –a shift from their past reluctance to be associated with it. There are the necessary controls in place though, with brands using what is known as blockchain technology. According to Achim Berg, senior partner and global leader of McKinsey’s apparel, fashion and luxury group, this technology can “certify the origin and authenticity of products and fight counterfeiting”. In this vein, French fashion house Chloé launched Chloé Vertical, a digital ID that allows users to identify authentic designer items, scan the labels and trace their supply chain before they receive an ownership certificate. This then allows designer items to be resold through resale platforms like Vestiaire Collective. A similar trend is that of ‘worn-in luxury’, where clients are eschewing pristine handbags in favour of used ones. In South Africa, online platform Luxity sells preowned luxury products at a fraction of the original price.

BUY LESS, BUT BETTER

The greenest garment available is the one you already own. According to research, 150 billion items of clothing are produced each year. In 2021, Levi Strauss & Co initiated a campaign called “Buy Better. Wear Longer”, which aims to discourage overconsumption, while the so-called ‘de-influencing’ trend on TikTok calls for followers to stop buying items they do not need. This sentiment is even being echoed on the red carpet, with A-listers starting to repeat their outfits. At the SAG Awards earlier this year, Cate Blanchett wore an Armani gown with upcycled lace from a dress she had worn years earlier, while her look at the Oscars included an archival Louis Vuitton velvet top (left). The Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton, is also known to recycle her outfits on a regular basis – a trend for which she is admired.

In keeping with the notion of consuming less, luxury brands such as Celine, Chanel, Bottega Veneta and Hermès also now offer repairs on their products. Hermès notably has a menu of over 700 repair services while Japanese brand, Uniqlo, has an on-sit Repair Studio to extend the life of its clothing.

In addition, Uniqlo’s holding company, Fast Retailing, has been in a partnership with United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) since 2006, donating clothing to refugee families.

In the words of the late Vivienne Westwood, “Buy less, choose well, make it last”. ■

THE LUXURY MARKET IS UNDERGOING A SHIFT IN ATTITUDE WITH CONSUMERS LOOKING BEYOND THE IDEA OF ONLY PURCHASING NEW CLOTHING

WORDS FAEEZA KHAN - HEAD OF RESEARCH AT FLUX TRENDS PHOTOGRAPHY ROELENE PRINSLOO

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SETTING SAIL

ENJOY A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON EUROPE THIS SUMMER WITH A MEDITERRANEAN YACHTING HOLIDAY. SEA SHANTIES OPTIONAL

WORDS RICHARD HOLMES

Charter companies typically have a wide range of yachts in their fleet, from opulent motor yachts to sleek sailing vessels. But unless you’re an oligarch hiding out in Monte Carlo, your best bet is a midsize yacht that sleeps between four and eight passengers. These offer the perfect balance between comfort, convenience and incredibly easy accessibility to small island marinas.

IT’S NO ACCIDENT THAT MARK TWAIN, who penned these words, used nautical imagery when encouraging his readers to lead a life of adventure and curiosity. Since time immemorial, the seas have held a magnetic allure, offering an irresistible sense of unfettered freedom. And, happily, you don’t have to run away to sea to enjoy a taste of life on the open ocean.

Worldwide, yacht charter holidays have gained popularity over the past few decades as a new generation of adventurous travellers discover the delights of casting off the lines and setting sail. While qualified skippers can simply hire a boat and sail off on their own – what’s known as a ‘bare-boat charter’ in the industry – not having the correct qualification doesn’t mean a sailing holiday is off the cards.

Leading yacht charter companies, such as Dream Yacht Worldwide and The Moorings, offer skippered charters. These include a fully qualified local skipper who will sail the boat for you, either to a pre-set itinerary or according to your own preferences, taking the wind and weather into account. Just bear in mind that the skipper (obviously) lives and sleeps on the boat for the duration of the charter. While it may at first feel strange having a stranger join your holiday, these skippers are experienced professionals adept at judging just how involved the guests want them to be. And if you value service over seclusion, crewed options are also available, with a private chef or hostess joining to take care of meals and hospitality on board.

While there are motor yachts available for those who have no interest in hoisting the mainsail, the cost will be considerably higher as you’ll be paying for the fuel used during your trip. Besides, the whistle of the wind over the sails certainly adds enormous romance to the experience of a holiday afloat. Monohull yachts, which are typically faster, will keep enthusiastic sailors happy, but if you’re worried about stability and comfort, a catamaran is your best bet.

“For those new to a yachting holiday, the flat seas of the Mediterranean make it one of the best places to start,” says Liesl Nel, an experienced sailor and local spokesperson for The Moorings, a charter company established in 1969.

Many charter companies offer itineraries on the Mediterranean, from the Spanish Balearic Islands to gulets off the coast of Turkey. But the key to a memorable holiday at sea is ensuring there’s plenty to explore. On this score, Greece and Croatia should arguably be at the top of your list.

‘Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. SAIL AWAY from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sail. EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.’

The Ionian Islands of north-western Greece are especially idyllic, sporting some of the most attractive scenery in the region coupled with a rich and ancient history. Feeling adventurous? This region also offers the opportunity for thrilling open-water adventures offshore.

Too much adrenaline for you? Look no further than the port of Agana near the Croatian city of Split. From here, charter yachts have easy access to the rugged Dalmatian Islands, many of which are unspoiled as they are protected national parks. Charters typically focus on the region’s more famous outcrops, the likes of Šolta, Hvar and Brač, as well as the Kornati National Park further north. “What’s great about Croatia is that you always have line-ofsight sailing, with land always in view. You’ll be cruising from one little island to the next, and one marina to the next,” says Liesl.

That’s certainly a part of the charm of a yachting holiday in the Mediterranean. These small coastal harbours allow you to dock at the village marina and step off the boat straight into the town

square to explore local markets or find a table at a local taverna. Sailing holidays are certainly the ultimate in slow travel; a welcome antidote to the mad rush of a European city break where days are bursting with museums, galleries and crowded streets. So, the best advice for this type of holiday? Take your time. “A lot of people think you can just do two or three days, but you need at least a week for a yachting holiday. And if you really want to have a proper Mediterranean experience, two weeks is certainly better,” says Liesl.

That may feel excessive, but consider this: the yacht is your accommodation for your trip. It’s also your transport and, to a large extent, your entertainment. Add up what you’d spend on dry land, and suddenly the numbers look a whole lot more attractive. Plus, if you’re travelling with friends and sharing the cost, an eight-berth catamaran goes from an indulgence to a high-value holiday. This year, it’s time to pack your bags and head for the high seas. ■

A PERFECT BLEND OF FASHION AND HOSPITALITY, THESE DESIGNER HOTELS ARE DEFINITELY TOP OF THE LUXE LIST FOR ANY STYLE-CONSCIOUS TRAVELLERS

WORDS NTOMBENHLE SHEZI

TRAVEL IN STYLE (LITERALLY)

PALAZZO VERSACE GOLD COAST, AUSTRALIA

This opulent five-star hotel is located on the waterfront of Australia’s Gold Coast in Queensland. Surrounded by picturesque gardens and overlooking the serene Broadwater, the hotel is a paradise for those seeking a particularly glamorous retreat.

WE LOVE: The interiors are as opulent as one would expect from the famous Italian fashion house. The hotel is adorned with intricate mosaic floors, a variety of impressive artwork and handcrafted furniture.

TOP EXPERIENCE: The hotel has its own marina where guests can rent luxury boats and yachts to explore the Gold Coast waterways. There are also a range of activities on offer, including wine tasting, art tours and enjoyable cooking classes.

palazzoversace.com.au

ARMANI HOTEL DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Situated in the heart of Downtown Dubai in the Burj Khalifa – the tallest building in the world – guests can expect stunning views of the surrounding cityscape from this fabulous hotel. The Dubai Fountain and Dubai Mall are just a short walk away.

WE LOVE: As expected from the renowned fashion house, the interiors are nothing short of exceptional. The rooms and suites are designed with sleek, modern lines, neutral tones and minimalistic touches. The hotel’s signature scent, Privé, adds to the overall ambience of your stay.

TOP EXPERIENCE: The Ristorante is an exceptional culinary experience offering exquisite Italian dishes made with the finest ingredients and a degustation-style menu paired with exceptional wines. armanihotels.com

yourluxury.africa

BULGARI HOTEL, LONDON

Located in the heart of Knightsbridge, the Bulgari hotel’s opulent Edwardian building is surrounded by designer boutiques, top restaurants and famous landmarks such as Harrods and Hyde Park.

WE LOVE: The luxe pampering and wellness experiences at the hotel’s award-winning spa, which offers a range of exclusive treatments. There is an impressive gym, sauna and steam room, as well as a 25m-long indoor pool made with Vincenza stone.

TOP EXPERIENCE: Afternoon tea is served with an Italian twist in the elegant lounge. Guests can indulge in traditional and modern treats, accompanied by a selection of fine teas and Champagne. A movie in the private cinema is also an opportunity you simply cannot miss.

bulgarihotels.com

RALPH LAUREN ROUND HILL HOTEL AND VILLAS, JAMAICA

Located on Jamaica’s Montego Bay coastline, guests will find themselves surrounded by lush tropical gardens and overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

VERMELHO, PORTUGAL

Christian Louboutin, the renowned fashion designer known for his iconic red-soled shoes, has opened a new hotel in Melides, which is touted as Portugal’s next big beach town. Vermelho, which means red in Portuguese, is aptly named after Louboutin’s signature hue. Overall, it’s a luxurious and unique hotel that celebrates Portuguese culture and art while incorporating the designer’s distinctive style.

WE LOVE: The interiors boast a bold, eclectic mix of colours and patterns, with red accents throughout. The decor draws inspiration from the designer’s travels through North Africa, Spain and France, with a nod to his Egyptian heritage.

TOP EXPERIENCE: The hotel’s restaurant, Xtian, celebrates the seasonal flavours and culinary traditions of the region. The table ware, like the ingredients, is locally sourced. Vermelhohotel.com

WE LOVE: Ralph Lauren’s signature style provides an understated home-away-fromhome feel, whether guests choose to stay in a private villa or luxury suite.

TOP EXPERIENCE: The private beach provides a secluded spot to soak up the sun and enjoy water sports, like snorkeling, kayaking and paddleboarding. For an intimate dining experience, their in-villa menu offers a range of delectable meals. roundhill.com ■

LONG SEEN AS little more than a partystarter to knock back with a bite of lemon and lick of salt, tequila is finally shaking off its tawdry reputation and entering a brave new era as a spirit of substance.

“Globally, the trend towards a better appreciation of agave spirits, such as tequila and mezcal, has been on an upward trajectory for several years,” says Leah van Deventer, academy chair for the World’s 50 Best Bars and a Spirits Educator for the London-based Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET). “And as with all things drinks, what’s in vogue is driven by the people most in the know: our bartenders. So the bars are where we’ll first see trends, such as the uptick for agave spirits.”

Anecdotally that may be true, but it’s also backed up by some cold, hard figures.

According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, in 2021 tequila and mezcal were the second-fastest growing spirits category in terms of both revenue and volume, with the super-premium brands leading the charge. Over the past 20 years, this category – virtually unknown back in 2003 – has grown into a $2-billion market segment, driven in part by the boom in celebrity-owned spirits, from Dwayne Johnson’s Teremana to Rita Ora’s Prospero. And let’s not forget George Clooney’s Casamigos. Established in 2013, he and co-founder Rande Gerber sold the brand to drinks giant Diageo just four years later for a staggering $1-billion.

SPIRIT

The growth in premium hand-crafted spirits is slowly filtering into South Africa. “With better quality tequila and mezcal being brought into the country, it’s becoming known as a sipping spirit,” says Sean Binder, co-founder of Cape Town’s Una Más – Mezcaleria, which offers upwards of 90 agave spirits on the menu. For a premium tequila – like R650-apour for Gran Patrón Burdeos – Una Más also encourages diners to relook at how they sip their spirit, offering various traditional clay copitas that allow for better appreciation of the aromas.

“A proper spirit-tasting glass always is ideal, but whatever you use, it’s always best to enjoy tequila and mezcal in its most natural form,” adds Kudzai Kupeta, spirit sommelier at Johannesburg’s specialist wine and spirits merchant, WhiskyBrother & Co. “I’d suggest you drink it neat, but you can also add a little water which releases more of the flavour and aroma, just like a whisky.”

WhiskyBrother & Co now stocks more than 30 premium tequila and mezcal bottlings, including the striking Clase Azul Añejo Tequila. Made from blue agave grown in the Mexican highlands of Jalisco then aged for eight months in bourbon, sherry and cognac casks, each bottle of Clase Azul is hand-painted and the brand has become a bellwether for the unstoppable rise in premium tequila. The bad news? Each bottle retails for upwards of R11 000. ■

TASTING NOTES

Kudzai suggests sipping on these fine spirits:

CASCAHUIN BLANCO TAHONA TEQUILA: I love the freshness of this 100 percent agave tequila. It’s a little salty with lots of lime notes, but not too sharp on the palate.

CENOTE AÑEJO: They’re using a lot of American oak in this tequila, so you’re getting a beautiful creamy character with well-integrated texture and flavour.

CÓDIGO 1530 REPOSADO: Aged for six months in oak wine barrels, this tequila is a nice balance of the other two characters. It’s not too sweet with a subtle freshness.

ABOVE LEFT: 1800 Silver Tequila

ABOVE: Una Vida Tequila

LEFT: Clase Azul Añejo Tequila

RIGHT: Cenote Añejo; Cascahuin Blanco Tahona Tequila; Código 1530 Reposado

THE NEXT TIME YOU’RE SEARCHING THE MENU FOR A PREMIUM SIPPING SPIRIT, GIVE THE WORLD’S FINEST TEQUILAS A TRY WORDS RICHARD HOLMES

PARAISO COLLECTION

A sophisticated collection of textiles, from hand-woven silk ikats to luxurious velvets. Inspired by the brilliant colours and patterns of idyllic island life, Paraiso mixes flora and foliage and exotic motifs and sarong border designs with contemporary and abstract textures.

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JOYCE LAMANI, CEO AND FOUNDER OF LUXURY LIFESTYLE CONCIERGE COMPANY VIP SOUTH AFRICA, TELLS US WHY SHE LOVES A BAR OF LINDT CHOCOLATE AND CALLS DUBAI HER SECOND HOME WORDS MATTHEW MCCLURE

WHAT IS YOUR IDEA OF LUXURY? To me, luxury is a state of great comfort, elegance, high-quality wealth, exclusivity and indulgence. Luxury is hard to get, but once you have it, you’ll have a sense of exclusivity and top-tier opulence. It involves a level of indulgence that goes beyond the basic needs and desires of most people. More than anything, luxury is a feeling.

A CELEB YOU’VE SPOTTED? I will never forget seeing Oprah Winfrey at the Global Citizen 46664 concert for the Mandela Foundation in 2018. I spotted her from the crowd. I was very young, but that moment was priceless for me. I always looked up to her and watched her talk show daily. My dream was always to be interviewed by her, and maybe one day I will have a oneon-one with her. It is a dream I am holding on to – after all, life works in mysterious ways.

WHAT DOES A WEEKEND AT HOME LOOK LIKE FOR YOU?

I’m often attending to clients on my weekends, so when I have a free weekend, I’m very intentional about taking time out by unplugging from the world and staying indoors. That often includes cooking or being cooked for while I listen to music and catch up on series and movies. I also like to put time aside to meditate and relax.

YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME? Dubai – I love it. I’m fortunate to travel there quite frequently and can safely say that it now feels like home.

THE ONE THING YOU DO AFTER WORK TO HELP YOU UNWIND? I love taking sunset walks on the beach to be near the ocean after a long day or week of work. It’s soothing to my soul. Alternatively, I work out and do boxing.

THE BEST REASON TO SWITCH YOUR PHONE TO AEROPLANE MODE? ‘Silence is golden’ is a motto I live by. In my line of work, my phone is always ringing, so I have to take time to sit back and think without the noise.

HOW DO YOU SEPARATE WORK FROM YOUR PERSONAL LIFE?

It’s tough for me to separate the two because my work is part of my everyday life. That’s why I have two cellphone numbers. It helps me navigate the two worlds and structure things so that I can separate them. I am happy with the way that works now.

YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? A bar of Lindt chocolate. I eat clean, so my treat is having something sweet every once in a while.

THE BEST HOLIDAY YOU’VE EVER HAD? For my birthday last year, I went to Milan and then to Lake Como, where I stayed at Villa d’Este. It was a dream. My next stop was Greece. I went to Mykonos and stayed at Santa Marina Mykonos – the best resort on the island. The trip was a bit of work as well as pleasure, but that is the best thing about my job – it never really feels like work. Some memorable moments in Greece were watching Black Coffee perform, dining at fine establishments and meeting the most incredible people. It was perfect.

Go-to leisure outfit: Sweats and tracksuits. I tend to love chilled vibes. Your happy place? That’s typically on a flight to my next destination! A song you’re listening to on repeat? Your Voice by Awen & Caiiro. A hidden gem you love? Franschhoek. I love a tranquil place with less traffic and noise where I can enjoy myself freely. This country has so much beauty and many world-class offerings. A hobby you’d like to get into? I would like to play padel and golf. I was an athlete at school, so I enjoy hobbies that give me some form of exercise. One luxury that’s actually a necessity? Paying for convenience. Anything that makes your world easier to live in and will bring you a sense of peace. ■